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I BY aEORCrE DAVmSON, AHRIHTANT (MJAHT » U 11 V K Y . 1869. WASHINGTON: V K U N M E N T PRINTING O F V I C R 1869. INTRODUCTION TO TUE ALASKA COAST PILOT. Tho information herein conveyed of the coast, harbors, cliu ato, and produc- tions of Ahiska, formed the principal part of the oflicial report of George D.ivid- son, wlio was in charge of the party of the United States Coast Survey for the geo- graphical reconnoissance of the coast of Alaska, in August, September, Octobei-, and November 1807.* While engaged in this special work it was peculiarly desirable to collect information of those parts of tho coast which must necessarily remain without direct examination for some years, to ascertain the resources, tho climate, and products of the country, then almost unknown to tho United States. In the absence of other official and authentic information, it has been deemed proper to retain the articles upon the clinmte, vegetable productions, hsherics, timber, fur-bearing animals, and population of the coast. These are important to our fishermen, whalemen, fur-traders, miners, and ship-builders. Extended mete- orological tables have been added as appendices ; the vocabularies of Unaiaska, Kadiak, Kenai, and Sitka, by Lisiansky, and of the Chim-shyins, by Davidson, have also been added. As fresh material is collected it will be incorporated, corrections made, and many articles not rigidly pertaining to a Coast Pilot, will be pruned or excluded. The narratives of the old navigators, explorers, and fur-traders, have been in great part examined and collated f jr special descriptions of bays, harbors, straits, headlands, islands, coast lino, currents, fishing banks, &c. Among the authorities examined have been Miiller, Coxe, Cooke, IMcares, Portlock, Dixon, La Pdrouse, Vancouver, Lisiansky, Kruzenstern, Kotzebue, Wraugell, Beechey., Seemann, George Simpson, Thomas Simpson, Venjauiinoft", Tebenkoff, Holmberg, Grewingk, Annals of the Observatory at Sitka, together with many manuscript maps of the Russian-American Comi)any, and verbal com- munications from tho navigators of thy company. Some of the tracks of the old navigators have been plotted on 'the best inai)s extant, and great discrepancies, as in La Pi'u'ouse, reconciled. Many positions have been determined from their recorded bearings, &c. In the oflicial report a general description of the coast, and of the great Japan warm current throwing its waters thereon, preceded the reniiuUs njmn the climare, »%c.; but it has been judged best to keep everything specially rchiting to the description of the coast in regular sequence. To understand the i)eculiaiities * The party won? iiPconiiiio(l on liDiird tln> United Stutos rovpimo Hteaincr IJiiroln, Captiiiii J. W. WhiU^, under the N|M>ciul direction of (Captain W, A. Howard, I'liited States revenue ncrvice, and tlieir duti<» weni Nuliordiuuto to tbe speeiul revenue and other diitieH of that venHel. INTKODITCTION. of tlio coast, cliiniitc, ami proaiictions in that IukIi latitude, it is, liowcvor, essen- tial to know sonictliini,' of the causes which produce them. A general description of the interior route from San Francisco to Alaska by the Strait of Fuca, (Inlf of Georjjia, and consecutive channels, pr'jcedes the descii|ttion of the coast of Alaska. As theses channels are mostly in British Columltia, detailed descriptions have not been made, they being without the Hcoiie of tin' present work. tSoitiKlbuis arc given for the mean of the lower low-waters. lUnrinijH are magnetic. DlstnnccH are expressed in geographical (nautical) miles. ALASKA COAST PILOT ni'fon^ (Miti'iing upon a ilotuiled dosttription of the coast and liarbois of Alaska, it aitpcais desirable to state and conipaie tlie distance of Sitlva IVoni Sau Francisco by the direct (umrse with that by the interior navijiation llirou;;]i Fnca Strait and the channels lying betw 'en Vancouver Island and the main, and thence through the archipelagos to the northward ; and to give a general description of the channels and harbors through these archipelagos. From a position ten miles west of the South Fanillou a direct course can be laid to Point Woodhouse, the south point of the entrance to Sitka Sound. This course is about luuth 23J° west, and the distance one thousand two hundred and tifty-livc miles. The shortest distance from the harbor of San Francisco to that of Sitka is one thousand two hundred and ninety-six miles. On the above course; a vessel Avill pass five miles outside Point Arena; liftcen miles outside ('ape Mendo- cino ; one hundred and eighty-livo miles off Cape Flattery; seventy-five miles off Scott I, ..t the northwest point of Vancouver Island ; thirty-eight miles from Capo St. James, the south point of the Queen Charlotte Archipelago; seventeen miles from the northwesternmost point of the same, while the western shores of the group lie nearly parallel with the course; twenty-three miles from Cape l$ar- tolomo, the southwest iioint of entrance to Bucarelli Sound; eighteen miles from Cape Ommaney, the southwest point of the entrance to Chatham Strait. In making this direct eoiuse in summer, a vessel will iiato an adverse current the whole distam^e; how great it is off shore is not well established, ]»ossibly twenty miles per daj-. In winter this current, runnirg against the prevailing southeast winds, tends to create a larger and shorter sea than is occasioned by the same strength of northwest wind in sununer. In making the passage by the interior channels from the same starting point, the vessel will make a course for Cape Mendocino, one hundred and seventy-seven miles ; thence to Cape Flattery, Ave hundred and forty-fimr miles. Here the infe- rior channels connnence, and the mid-channel course through the Strait of Fuca to the entrance of the Canal de naro gives seventy-three miles; thence through the Canal de Haro, Shannon Channel, and Active Pass, to the (iulf of (lecngia, thirty- five miles; along the western sluncs of the Gulf, within an average distaiu-e of five miles from land, to the entrance of Discovery Passage abreast of Cape Jfudge, in latitude 490 50', one hundred and seven miles; thnmgli this passage and -lohn- stoue and P>roughton Straits to F'oit Kui)ert, in iJeaver Harbor, near the n(»rtli- ern extremity of Vancouver Island, tuie hundred and seven miles; tla-nci- along the Vancouver shore and through the Siiadwell Passage t(» (Jueen Charlotte Sound, thirty miles; across the entrance to this sound to Cape Mosman, (»r Cal- () ALASKA COAST PILOT. vert, in latitiulo .IP LM'.O at tlic southwt'.st point of tlio ciitrauco to FitzlniKh H..niMl, tliiity-.uic n.il.'s; tlirouKli tlii.t strait to the ea.stern entrant of Lnn a Pas- isa^'.., forty n.il.-s; through th« passage ami Hoaforth Cliannol to :SIiH.ank Sound, twHity-eiRht niik-s; across the sound and through Finlay.son Sound to Point King(-(.nif, s.-vcnty-ninc miU's; thi-uce westward to Gronvillc Strait, sixteen miles; through tlie .strait forty-seven inih-s; through Cliathani Stnuid to Oixou S..nnd, forty-two miles; a«'ross Dixon Sound, (the dividing waters between 15riti,sli Columbia and Alaska,) through Clareuce Strait to the north point of Coronation Island, two hundred miles; thence outside around Cape Ommaney ami Haranoft' Island to the jtosition off Point Woodhouse, eighty miles ; or a total distance of one thousand six hundred and forty -s»ven miles. This gives three humlrcd and ninety-two miles further than the direct course. Shouhl a vessel not wish to go outside at all, she can leave the Clarence Sound at its m)rthea.st bend and pass thnmgh Stikine Strait, Wrangell Pas.sage, Frederick Souiul, Chatham and Peril Straits, to Sitka. In this case the naviga- tion is more hazardous and the distance frouj Dixon Sound three hundred and forty-flve miles; this would nmke about one thousand seven hundred and twelve miles from the South Farallon to Sitka. A large sailing ve,s,sel mu.st make the outside pas.sage, and if bound to Sitka during the .sea.son of northwest winds, will find that by making a long tack otT shore slu> crosses the main volume of the current running along the coast from the northward, and that the wind hauls so as to admit of her heading well to the north —at least the latter was «mr experience in July 1854, when about latitude 4.'}'' and longitude ^31°. The influence of the above current is generally supposed to be felt about three hundred miles oft' shore. A large steamer may make the direct course in part, and be much the gainer, e.speeially if she recpiires coaling before her return, as coal can readily be obtained at the Xasaimo n»im»s* in tl (^ Gulf of Georgia. In such a case, the outside pas- sage n<«thward of (Jueen Charlotte Sound should be taken. A small steamer, actually capable of nuiking this passage and having coal at Sitka, may tind it advantageous to run through the smooth waters of the interior channels and avoid the m)rthwest winds and seas of summer, or the heavy .southeast gales of winter. The great objection to the interiin- navigation is the necessity for antdior- Ing each niglit, and anchorages are not numerous. In summer this is not a very serious loss of time, on account of the long days. With the recent reconnoissance * Eijility milcN diNliint from Victorin, on the t'lvsteru sidu of Vimoouvcr Lslanil, oxtoiiHivo (li'lKisits (if coal occiir. known aN tilt' \asainio mint's. Tht'st" niiiu's wt'if opfnt'tl in tlif year 1S,52 by tin' Hntlson llav ('tiin))any, Imt havi^ Hini'i; passt'd intti tlii^ liantU of otluT part it's. Tlit> ttital .shiiuni'ntM of timl frtim thom fitnn the yt'ur 185'J to tlu' prt'Sfiit tinif proliahly rxffftl two Inintli'i'il tlionsaml tonw, and, ai'ctirtlinn to Mactif, amonntt'tl at the cntl of tlit' year IHi'il to lint' hnntlrctl anil twt'nty-tliifi> tlionHantl nint- liuntli-t'd antl thirtft'n tons; tlif sliipnifntH ft)r thf yt'ai- l-'iil wcrt' t wcnly-nini- tliousanil antl forly-twti tons. Tlif foal is liifrlily bitninintius, wfll siiitt'il tor lioiist'lioltt nsc antl stfaniinn pm|iiist's. Tlio liftls art' linown to lii'lon;; to thf fit'tact'ons pcrinil, ami art' iniu'h npht'avt'tl antl fanltfd, ifntlt-rinK thi'ir exploration tlilticnlt and t'X])i'nsivt'. The cttal is fiiniiHhetl on the wharf at Nasainut at six ilollarH (K"lproach too close because of the absenee of the nsiial iids to navigation. Moreover, no off-shore sound the island is dangerous. This little opening received the appropriate name of "The Trap." Northward of Milbank Sound, through Finlayson Channel, this chart is oidy in outline. It includes the southern part of the Queen Charlotte Archipelago with the Houston Stuart r.hTinel through the islands in latitude 52° 00' to 52° 0!)', and a survey of Rose Harbor in tliis channel, with the position of Stincuttle Channel through the same archipelago indicated in latitude 52° 13' to 52° 18'. Admiralty Chart No. 1923 A, with corrections to January, 1808, gives the interior navigation by one main line of chaimels only, from latitude 62° 57' to the wate"s between Alaska and British Columbia in latitude 54° 40'. The main channels are in outline only, but several anchorages are indicated ; Ogden Channel has been par- tially developed, leading from the north end of Grenville Channel, in latitude 53° 55', to the ocean, via Hecate Strait, lying between these islands aud Queen Char- 8 ALASIwV (X)ABT l»ir.OT. lotto Aicliipoliigo. It cxliibitH on a small scale IMetlak:'itla and Duncan Bays, on tlic ciistciii shore of Cliathani Sound; and Port Simpson Bay and approaclies. It also {;iv('S tlic survey of Oumshewas Bay and harbor, on the east side of Mores- by Island ; of the Qneen C5harlott« Archipelago, in latitude 53°, and the eastern part of Skidegiite Inlet, between Moresby Island and Graham Island, in latitude fia° 2')'. Admiralty Chart No. 1901, published in February 1868, contains ])lans of ten haibors and anchorages of the interior navigation, the Ogden channel and adja- cent harbors, all lyiug between Cape Caution anil Por<- Gimpson*. It exhibits Schooner Retreat at the south entrance to Fitzhugh Sound, Safety Cove, Gold- stream Ilarbor, and Namu Harbor in Fitzhugh Sound, McLaughlin Bay in Lama Passage, Kynumpt Ilarbor in Soaforth Channel between Lama Passage and Mil- bank Sound, Carter Bay at the north end of Finlay&ou Channel, Holmes Bay at the south end of Grenville Channel, (this is the Home Bay of previous English charts, and by this name only is it known by traders and the Hudson Bay pilots,) Stuart Anchorage in the north part of Grenville Channel, Ogden Channel, and Al^dia Bay in the same channel. Chart No. 571, published in April 18GG, contains four haibors in the vicinity oi' Queen^Chai'lotte Sound, on the north shore, abreast of Fort Rupert in Beaver Harbor ; Blunden and Callen harbors would only be resoi'ted to by our traders for refuge, while Cypress and Tracy harbors are situated among the imnow intri- cate arms stretching into the mainland, about latitude 60° 50', and longitude 120° 50', twelvejniles from the north shores of Vancouver Island. It is not necessarj' to follow in detail these connected interior channels of Bricish Columbia, forming p...i of the great canals extending from the head of Paget Sound, in latitude 47° 03', to the mouth of the Chilkaht, in latitude 5()o 15'. All aftbrd splendid navigation for steamers and small sailing craft. Those of British Cohunbia are comparatively narrow, ranging from half a mile in excep- tional places to nearly ten miles in Chatham Sound and to sixteen miles in the Gulf of CJeorgia. But it must be understood that to the navigator accust'Mied to plenty of sea-room these channels look narrow, on account of the great height of their rocky and almost perpeniMcnlar shores. The inlets which occur at the hciul of the Gulf of Georgia, northeast of Van- couver Island, are worthy of special remark. They are from forty to sixty miles in length, from one to two miles only in breadth, and are walled with .vbrupt mountains from four to eight thousand feet in height, Superb Mountain attaining eight thousand feet at the head of Bute Inlet, and Mount Alfr-l eight thousand four hundred ami Hfty at the head of Jervis Inlet. According to the admiralty charts there are places in these fiords, within one- half mile or less of shore, where no bottom was found at three hundred fathoms. In Disiwefji /'««w/7p, leading from the northwest ])artofthe (rulf of Georgia, the channel is contracted very much; about eleven miles inside of Cape IViUdge the shores are ])recipitous, rocky, ami nearly a thousand feet high, and this occur- } I '"v*% \ 1 « ^^ 3 -3 = I t- I «§ V ^ ALASKA COAST I'lLOT. ring near the locality wliero tlie northern and southern tidal currents meet and form hif,'li tides, there is occasioned at certain stages of the tide a heavy overfall and a current running from four to eight knots per hour. It is exceedingly dangerous to try and run through this race in a fog. Fortunately there are anchorages at either approach of this gorge, which is called the ISvymour Xan-ows, where a vessel may anchor until a favorable time. In the Race I'mmye on the south side of llelmcken Island we metisured the flood current from tiie nortliwest, running seven miles per hour for an hour and a half, and no available position on either shore for an anchorage. Here the scenery is grand, for the mountains close on the southern or Vancouver shore rise to an elevation of over four thousand six hundred feet; on the north shore, on ITardvvicke Island the mountains rise two thousand six hundred feet above the water. Tlience westward the Johnstone Straits increase to two miles in width and the tidal currents run from one to three knots witli a mid-channel depth of one hundred and seventy-six fathoms, no bottom, while the high mountain range on the Vancouver shore rises abruptly to five thousand feet. In Broughton Strait tlie channel is wider and has less depth, but is filled with islands which decrease the available width, so that the currents reach a velocity of five knots per hour. In this vicinity, however, are numerous places for anchorage. Thence westward, through the eastern part of (^ueen Char- lotte Sound,* the current is from one to three knots per hour. Towards the north end of Vancouver Island the mountains directly on the coast decrease in elevation, but the mountains on the maiidand to the north and northeastward attain heights over six thousand feet above the sea and a'"e snow- clad in July and August. In running northward across the entrance of Queen Charlotte Sound to Fitzhugh Sound from the Shatlwell or Bute Pass, the outside dangers to the westward, stretching from a position four miles ofi" Cape Mosman t to a position twenty miles south-southwest from the cape, are readily detected and form a dangerous ground that must bo avoided. The islets and rocks making oft" the entrance to Smith's Inlet J are also x'eadily recognized and avoided in good vtcjither ; but in foggy or thick weather it is perhaps best to run from tlie Shad- well or Bute Pass for Cape Caution, a rocliy point of small elevation covered witli dwarfed siu-uce, &c., and then for a jiosition one or two miles west of Egg Islam!, which is two hundred and fifty feet high and easily recognized, but has two islets and a sunken rock half a mile south and south-southwest from it. Leaving Egg Island, a course can be laid for Cape Mosman. This cape, forming tlie southern- most point of Calvert Island, presents a broad face east and west of low rocky sliore line, covered with a thick growth of spruce, hemlock, &c., but backed by mountains two thousand to two thousand nine hundred feet high to the north- "Xiiiueil by C'iii)tiiiii S. WL>il)r(ji,oroiij;h, (if the KxiX'iiiiitMit, in Aujjiist 1780. tNiiiiipil liy till' United StatcM Const Survey in .July lf!(i7. See view called Capo Calvert, on Admiralty Chart No. lt)a:(, publiNhed in Ueeeiuher 1««7. { Named by Captain James llanna in 178(i, 10 ALASKA COAST PILOT. ward on ('alvcrt Island.* A view of tliia cape is given; the latitude of the i.slet oirthiM'xticiiH' jHiint is .')13 L'l'.fl, Queen Charlotte Sound is tlio only break in this line of interior navisation, and it is not only j;iianled towards the ocean by nniny patches of low and sunken rocks, but it is exposed to the fidl sweep of the ocean swell, and so situated as to appear i)eculiarly liable to foj;. ritzliu;;h Soundt is forty miles hmff, with an aM'ia^-e width of three miles, and great depth of water. Its general direction is north, and the shores are bold, and on the west side free from rocks. Several ])asses lead eastward and westward from it, but most of them are unexplored. There is an anchorage on the eastern shme of ritzhugh Sound, in Schooner RctrciH, the south entrance of which is in latitude 51° 27'.(!, and in huigitude IL'To ■i'>'.H. From this entrance the extremity of Cape Mosnuui bears south ih>° west. From the middle of the south entrance of the harbor the highest hill on the island, behind «u' east of the harbor, bears northeast, so that it is safe to run for the hill on that course until Karslake Point, the south jioint of the harbor, bears about south-southeast, and then run mid-channel east and northeast through the narrow throat, only two hundred yards wide, but having eight fathoms in tiie middle. Inside this Fn'f/atc Jiiiij ex])ands, and anclun^age is had in twenty fiitlioms. it is liigii water, full and change, at 0/(. oO/h. Springs rise fourteen feet ; neajis eleven I'eet. SitJ'riii Core is on the west side of the sound, seven miles north of Cape Mas- nian(?)- The entraiu'c is in latitude '>l° 'M'X>, and longitude 127° flo'.O. It is open to the <'ast, a mile deep, six hundred or seven hundred yards in width, Avith good holding-ground in soft mud, from twenty-two to fifteen fathoms; very high land all around it; high water, full and change, at l/i. 0»J.; springs, fourteen feet; neaps, eleven feet. It is a good position to wait for fair weather for crossing to Queen Charlotte Island, when bouml to the southward. It was discovered by N'ancouver in 17!)2, and named by him under the first impression that this was the I'ort Safety of Captain IJuncan. Kirul-nhua. — This bay opens on the western shore of the sound, and is about half a mile wide at the entrance, but has not been surveyed. There is a small rock otVits n(nth ]toint. It ap/pears to stretcth nearly westward, but how far is not known. This is belie\ed to be the Port Safety of Captain Duncan, who discovered and named it in I'Sii, when he placed it in latitude 51° 4P, and recommended it as a vcrv proper i»]aet> for cleaning and refitting vessels. At the entrance he had one huiulred fathoms, whereas in Vancouver's Safety Cove there is only thirty. On the Admiralty Chart 1(L';!, a depth of one hundred and eighty-three fathoms, nuiddy bottom, is given ch»se off the entrance. Duncan gave a sket(;h of it. We have never seen tlie sketch or the bay. The latitude of its entrance is 51° 39', and the sound is hens three miles wide. (iohlfttmiin Harbor is on the west sule of Fitzhngh Strait, at the northern end *X;iini's, twelve feet. Around the north end of this .small island is a channel over a mile wide, called by the natives Ilakai, leading to the lUtt^iite Strait and the ocean, and through which Duncan passed to the sea in 1780. Xamn Harbor is on the east side of the st'.;(. There is a passage on either side. The best anchorage is about half a mile east of it in twenty fathoms; h'ss water may be had by going a little further in, but with the shores two hundred aiul lifty yards distant on either hand. Tlu-re is a siwdicn rock two hundred yards from the easternmost shore, with a small islet about one cable length to the nortli-half-«est; deep water around the rock. Two miles south- east of this harbor is a rang(^ of mountains attaining an elevation of three thou- sand three hundred and eighty feet. The "trap" in latitude o'l° 01' has been spoken of in giving a general descrip- tion of these channels. The Lama Pannaf/e opens from Fitzhugh S»und towards the westward in lati- tude 52° 04', while the conthiuation of the sound runs north-northeast, as Fisher Channel, through which Vancouver took his ships to latitude 51"^ 20'; thence to the westward and southwest into Seaforth Channel. The Lama Passage is quite narrow, being not quite half a mile wide in two or three places, but with deej) water. It runs west for six or seven miles, then north for seven or eight, when it meets Seaforth Channel from the west, and (Junboat Passage from the east; at the first turn a .strait, unnamed, leads southwest seven or eight miles to Hecate Strait. The mountains on each side of the ])assage rise from one thousaiul to one thousand eight hundred feet above the Avater. About midway in the northern stretch of the passage, on the western shore, is a small anchorage called McLauijhim Bay, with anchorage in ten fathoms about three hundred yards from diore, but over very uneven bottom. A bare hill two hundred feet high lies next the northern part of the bay. The passage abreast of this has less than thirty fathoms across it, a.id is only half a mile in Avidth. The latitude of the 'u.rth part of the anchorage is 52° 08'.(5, and longitude 128° 10'..'{, and bottom sand and mud. In tlie northern part of the i ssage we had anchor- ago in sixteen fathou!;-:, hard bottom, on the south side of a low, treeless islet, o(!cupii!d by tli'e Bellabella Indians. Close to the westward was a larg(> woodcy Ciipliiin Juiiirs Diinciiii in 1780. t Named liy C'aptuiu Jumps JJunoaii in 1786. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 13 (lomided of Hoil mid trees. Tliis inoiiiitniii is wcMulod noiiily to its smniiiit, iiiid tiio broiid white streidv, extending almost Irom tlic summit to tiie bottom, is a very distinctive mark. Tlio land at tlie base of the mountain is a comparative idateau, sjiarsdy cov- ered with lierba]ije. It is tlie lirst untimbered .space we saw in mnwii nortii tlirouffli these cliannels. We estimated its elevation at over two thousand feet, wliile hif,'her nu)untain.s appeared to the south of it. It was a litth; over a mil* from the water, and bounded on the north by a clnnuu^l leadinj? northeast to another louf-' unnamed strait. The position of this mountain is latitude o'J'^ 27'.-', longituih' ll'So 21'.."», ami should be readily distiugnisluMl by any vessel coming round Day Point from Ueeate Strait. Abreast of this Striped Mountain and near the western shore thci admiralty chart has no bottom at one hundred and .seven fathoms. As the chart in this region is oidy in outline, the following extract from our Jourmd may not be uninteresting. "About ten miles north of this mountain on the western shore Im a timbered hill, shaped remarkubl,\ like an old-fashioned cocked hat, a.s seen from the southward. It is over eight huiulred feet high, and is in reality a small islanet; this will give a fair average of the elevation of the shore mountains in tliis channel. In latitude '>2° ."JS', or ten miles nortli of Strijicd Mountain, acccu'ding to Admiralty Chart No. 1923, there is a channel opening to the west with a laige island in the entrance; this clianuel runs north-northwest for about seven miles, (when an opening makes to the .south westward,) then ntn-th-northeast eleven miles into the regular channel north of Carter Hay. This side channel has not been examined, but we are informed that it has been traversed, found good, has an average width of nearly a mile, ar--' avoids the shoal and Hewitt Eock, with ten feet on it at low water, situateer is ahout a mih- deep by hall' a mih' in wiiltli, ^ninhially (h'creasinfj to tlie head, where a tiat has tormed at the mouth of a small rapid stream, emptyin;;- a lake; about a mile (bstant. The best anchorajie is in tifteen fathoms, muddy bottom, about three hundred yards from eitluM' shore, and tour hundred yards from the Hat. Ill this position the southwest taii{;;eiit of the land will bear southwest by west, and the southeast tangent south by east. Three fathoms can be carried to the v*]iH' of the Hat, and ten fathoms close to the shores on eitlier bank. The stream emptyiiii;' into this bay comes thronj;h a t>orj>e in the mountains, and abouiidsiii speckled trout. They were caught ten inches long without a rod, but siinjily a line held in the hand, with a hook baited with clams dug frojii the Hat at low water. Tracks mid signs of animals were jdeiity, but traveling is very ditUcult. "From the anchorage in Carter l>ay, looking down Finlayson Channel south- west by west true, a splendid view jiresents itself; precipitous mountains over- hunging the vessel on either hand, and high mountains in the distance on both sides of the channel. On the west side, about seven miles distant, two huge peaks tbrm i)art of the rim of a great mountain lake, the patches of snow in their gorges (August 1st) and river sides deiiriving them of much of the massive gran- deur of their granite formation. Towards the channel and the water's edge their Hanks tor one thousand live hundred fec^t are covered with timber. Carter 15ay was named by Vancouver after one of his crew who died from eating poisonous mussels, and was luiried here in May, 17!);5. Xoitli of Carter Bay no name has been applied to the narrow channel running for thirty-four miles to Kiiigcome Point, where the main channel makes a sharp turn to the west. This channel averages about half a mile in width, with very precipitous shores. Five miles from the south entrance of this narrow strait the passage is contracted and the depth of water shoals to a few fathoms. At this contraction is found Hewitt Ilock, nearly in mid-channel, with only ten feet of Avater over it at low tide. The general direction to avoid this danger is to " keep the north shore aboard." Half a mile northwest of it is the east point of the side or parallel channel, coming into this strait from the locality of the " Cocked Hat." In passing through this reach Vancouver says, (vol. II, p. 201,) "at the entrance of the channel running northward from the southwest jioiii*- of Carter Bay the width was narrowed to about a Iburth (»r a mile, and, having proceeded abont four miles, the Chatham smldcnly found only six fathoms of water on a shoal stretching from the starboard, or continental shore, into mid-channel ; this we passed on the oppo- ^1 ALASKA COAST IMLOT. 15 site side in ei^Jliteon and twenty fntlioins water. JU-yiunl this, wiiicli is tlie nar- rowost part of the diannd, foinicd by a iii;;li, ronnd, project inf; i)art of tiie sontli- west shore, appearintjlike an ishind, the <'iiannel wideneil to nearly half u lea^'UP, and an extensive opening::, takin;^' a sontheriy direction, indicated a eonininnica- tit)n with the ocean." This is the western cliannel tinit opens near tlie "Cocked Uat." Two nulos northward of this op(!ninf( a bay culled Grey's [nh't opens to the eastward, Imt no aonndinj;s are given in it. Six and a iialf miles northward of Hewitt Ivock the channel has a depth of tl;irty-ei;;lit fathoms, rocky bottom. In latitude 53° 1' the channel has its least width of twolifths of a mile. Throuf-hont this narrow strait are ininierons markin<,'s where tiieavalaneheaof snow have swept down the steep mountain sides and carried tindier and earth with them, leaving tracks of bare rock. In some cases the trees have been forced into the channel; in others their dead trunks, in yrotestpu^ confusion, arc found at tiie foot of tlie slide. About latitude 5^5° ()'>' on the western shore is a cascade formed by a great body of water pouring over a rocky incline from a lakc^ at the base of an immense circle of perpendicular mountains. At the ]tr«)[)er season it is a great lesort for the natives when fishing for salnum, as the cascade is not too high for the salmon h) eftect an entrance to the lake. Several other lakes, and three rushing, tumbling overflows, falling three hundred to four hundred feet, are seen in the next twenty miles, all on the same side of the channel. Through this (jhaiuiel Vancouv" ^ays he could find no bottom with one hnn- dred and sixty-five to one hundred and eighty-live fathoms of line, but the indica- tions on the admiralty chart do not conlirm these great depths. OlF Point King- come and to the westward of it there are soundings without bottom in one hun- dred and eighty-nine and one hundred and seventy-nine fathoms. In the narrow channel Vancouver says that "in the vicinity of r>,'P 14' ]\rr. Whidbey discovered a deep cove near this locality, a smoke issuing from among the stones on the shore, that at low tide formed a kind of beach. On examina- tion a run of hot water was found i)assiiig among the stones, which, at high tide must be at least six feet beneath the surface of the sea. They were not able to discover its source, and, having no thermometer, its degree of heat could not bo ascertained. Some of the seamen attempted to wash their hands in it, but found the heat inconvenient. It had a saltish taste, and Mr. Whidbey was of opinion that the rapidity with which it flowed could scarcely permit of its receiving this savor from the sea water." — Vol. II, p. L'09. A deep bay opens abreast of Work Island, in latitude 53° 12', and stretches two miles northward. Abreast of a large landslide on the east shore, in latitude r>3'^ 14', the mid-channel depth is sixty-four fathoms, over rocky bottom. At Point Kingcome one of the three great arms stretches northward forty miles, with anchorage about three miles from the point, on the east shore, at tlie mouth of Fisherman or liibachy Creek. From Point Kingcome the main channel ir, ALASKA COAST PILOT. niiis wi'stwanl niii*' iiiilcs, wIdtc ;;r<-iit cIiiiiiiicIh o|i('ii to th(« north aii«l Huiith, ))iit tlir (liicil n»iit<' is tlirniiKli Cln-fiiN illc (liiiimcl, whose soutlu'ni ciitniiice lies north (HP wi'Mt, ci^iht niih's from the north point of Ilornc Ha.,. llitnif Hdji is on<' (»f the tew anriiora^ics in this vicinity, an*l is sitnatcd (liicclly uniltr tlic point, seven or ei;;ht niih's west of Kin;;coine; it is eontiaetetl, M'itli fireal deptli, except n( tiie liead where we anchored in it, in seventeen fatli- onis, two iinndred yards from low-water line. It opens to the northwest. (Sec sketch in .\(linira]ty Chait No. I!KH, where it is called Holmes Uay.) (iirnrilli' (.'IkiiudI. — From the sonth entrance, in latitude .l.'P lil', this renuirk- ahly strai^tht and narrow rok<'n shore of I'itt Island on the west, and the eastern shore of the main- land, broken at regular intervals by tlin'o inletM. Tlie dt'pth thron<;hont tho greater i)art ran^'t's thron;;h sivty-one, lifty, to forty-nine fathoms, over rocky bot- tom, and seventy fatiioms o\er mnd. The narrowest part of the channel i.s not over six hundred or st'ven hundred yards wide, and on account of tho great ]iei;;hl of theshoies appears much less. The followin;;'- description from our journal will convoy an idea of some of the strikinji' points of the sc! iiery. " Tiie o\er(iow.-; of f;i'eat lakes in the mountains jiour down the steei) declivitii's; f^reat swaths throu;^]! tiie heavy .spruce tind)er reach from mountain summit to water's od^e, markiii}? the cour.se of rcsi-stlesa avalanches ; the upper part of these paths well cleared of all timber, the lower reach covered wilii tlie dead trunks, frcipiently pointinj;- in one direction; bri^^iit t;reen streaks mark the course of older avalanches, where a new yrowth of veye- I at ion has .sprung up; throuf^h rifts and {gorges in the numntain .shores are seen mountains of {granite, reachiu),' an elevation of from four thou.sand to .six thousand feet, some smooth, domed, and t,'ray, with every ravine and <'revice fdled with suow, (Auj^ust li,) and tricklinjj; streams therefrom, others covered with patches of dark j^reen to relieve the wildue.ss of the scenery." Fourteen miles from tlu' southeru entrance anchorage is had in Lowe Inlet ou the east .shore; half a nule inside the entrance of this inlet bottom is found at eif,'hteen fathoms. The a])proacIi to this inlet from the .south is indi(!ated by a bare hill four hundred feet \u<<;h on the western .shore, two nules southeast of tho entrance which opens directly to the .south. Five; miles from the northern ex- trenuty anchorage is Ibnnd on the western shore in Steicart Uuthor. Anchorage in ten fathoms on the iu)rthwest side of a point or tongue fonning the east sith' of tiie harbor, and itrojecting half a mile north from the shore. A rock is laid down half a mile northwest of the extremity of this point, having thir- teen feet at low water, and another just in.side, bare at low Avater. (See Admiralty Chart Xo. litOl.) Tlie northern end of the Grenville Channel expands to three miles in width, but the middle is occui»ied by a large group of comparatively low, wooded islands called the Clil-son (iroup. The usual channel is to the west of them, and when abreast of them the wide pa.ssage to the sea, kuowu as Ogden Channel, opens to ALAHKA COAST I'lLOT. 17 tlio Noiitlnvt'st. Nearly west from tlic ii< iMi ciiil of tlio (Jiltsori (iioiip is a siiuill. low, woodt-d point, iiiakiii;; out lialt'ii iiiilr, with very tlct'p water at its south side, but linviii^ aiieliora;;e on the north side. In this vicinil/ the roeks are nietainor idde slates, sandstones, and shales, trending; northwest and southeast; some small barren (|uarlz veins aceompany the slates. In this vieinity we found the water ehant,'<' its eoUu- to a dirty white, evidently brought from the river Skip, through Port Kssinyton. Hence northward thi^ waters expand into larjfe arms and sefore most of the houses there is a tall thick post, carved with grotes(pie ligiues. I'liese are illustrated in the accompanying views. When all the tribes and branches are assembled they nundier nearly two thousand souls. Very few are hunters, but all are inter-traders. They frequently endeavor to ])revent the Ilydahs, of Trince of Wales Island, Alaska, from trading directly with the lliulson Hay Company, but the Ilydahs generally come in large nund)ers, armed, and witho^.t their women. The Indians of this section are all good carvers of silver, and very ingenious. Some read, Avrite, and speak English. The countiy in the immediate vicinity of Fort Simpson is not high, and for half a mile back has been cleared of wood tor fuel and building. IJut the soil is covered w h a foot or tw(» of moss, sphagnum, thoroughly saturated with rain- water, and almost impassable to the traveler. We were unable to find firm ryV" ' ^•' ■- T^TT-twTnn iriP US w 'eg? hi- 5?' 'Mr % Alstii^.-^vfei'i' ',>'." I ALASKA COAST PILOT. 19 ground for the transit block except in the well-drained soil inside the grounds of the compi'.ny. The season of 1807 was one of remarkable prosperity to tlie Jliidson Bay Company at this post, and the stock of furs the finest and heaviest purchased for many years. Berries were not ripe August 1 in the company's garden, but some were found ripe in the forest; potatoes Avere in bloom; cabbages never head; lettuce was very tine and crisp. Eoot crops mature ; cereals do not. The geology of this vicinity is dilferent I'rom that ol' the narrow channels and atraits to the southward. The islands in the immediate neighborhood to the southwest are compara- tively low, though to the north and northwest high snow-capped mountains are to be seen. The rocks in the vicinity of the fort are regularly stratified mica schists, generally garnetiferous, and sometimes i)yritiferous; these ])i)ss into gneiss and granite. Tlieir trend, as examined along the shore near the fort, is nearly north- west and southeast, (magnetic,) and their dip is thirty degrees to- the northeast. Tlie schists are seamed with numerous intercalated endix No. '6, In addition thereto is a table in cxtenm of the observations of Priest Shayesuikoff at Iliouliouk, during tho winter of 18CG-'07, being i)art of a regular series maintained by him. The existence of a branch of the warm .lajtanese stream carrying to this coast its waters imposes, at the outset, the necessity -of a high isothermal line along the whole northwest coast of America. The records of thi; state of the 20 ALASKA COAST PILOT. tlionnoiiu'tor establish the fact ; the botany and even the conchoh>f,'.v of the wliolo vefiion a(M th<'ir certain confiiniation. Tlie whok". sontheast coast of the Ahaska peninsula is bathed by these same waters, which retain a high temperature to Kadiak; thence westward this temper- ature (lecrciiscs, althonn'h the latitude decreases. Tlie report of the botanist exhibits a fh)ra that could not exist in this latitude without an unusually liif^h isothernud condition, accompanied with a great con- densation of vapor an',i°, and barometer 20.5 inehes, but he records no observations for the temperature of the water. June ln-2'2, ISO,"), on his voyage from Sitka to Kadiak, with moderate easterly winds, the temperature of the air was 53°, barometer 20.5 inches; November 11 to 15, ISOl, on the voyage from Sitka to Kadiak, with fresh easterly gales, the temperature of the air was 40°, barometer 20.2. The observations of Lisiansky have a certain value, but the temperatiue of the water M'ould have added greatly to tl> importance. We see in those regularly recorded by the United States Coast Survey party, three times a «lay, that a great body of warm water exists off the coast; for we hardly reach sixty miles inside the Alexander Archipelago before the temperature decreases from 4(i°.5 to 30°. Data concerning the climate of the interior of Alaska are wanting ; observa- tions have been few and isolated. From gold miners who have been nearly tea years on the Stikine River, debouching into tlie Alexander Archipelago in lati- tude 50°, we learn that east of the coast range of mountains the summers are dry and comparatively warm, the winters very severe, with heavy falls of snow that completely stop mining oi)erations. The country is s])arsely covered with a growth of small trees. The engineer engaged in exploring the inland route for the llussian American telegraph line, reports that in latitude 55° and longitude 12(io, 2° south of Sitka, and one hundred and sixty miles east t)f (iueen Charlotte Sound, "gi'ound ice" can be found at any time of the year at a depth of 'rom six to eight feet below the surface, and in that region the surface usually freezes to the depth of two feet in the winter, leaving an intervening stratum of unfrozen soil from four to six feet thick. This ground ice does not prevent the grovth of plants, a fact confirmed by Seeman in his "Botany of II. M. S. Herald, 1845-51," in western lilsquimaux land. In that region he found vegetation flourish where the ground ice was but two feet from the surface. CLIMATE OF SITKA. Appendix No. Ill gives much valuable meteorologicid information condensed from the full and detailed observations made at the Sitka Magnetic and Jleteo- rological Observatory, on Japonski Island, sustained by the liberality of the Russian American Company since 1847. The latter published records have not been received from St. Petersburg, but we have been able to obtain those up to 1802 inclusive. By this abstract it will be seen that the mean temperature of the year at Sitka, in latitude 57° 03', derived from twelve years' observations, is 42o.9 Fahrenheit. ; ,i.:V'j.,:«. 22 ALASKA COAST PILOT. Ecf-iiiiiiiifr with tlio iiiontli of INliiicli, wo ciiii Judge of the temperatiu'e of the dift'eic'iit .si'iisous by the following scheme: MontliH. Mure 1 1 . . . April May JllIK" July August.. Si'iiti'inlH' Oi'titlici-.. Novi'inlic Pcci'IiiIk' .liiiiiiaiy. Ffliniaiy rnlireiilii'it. Spiisons. 151)1111^. .SmuMifi'. A\iluniii. 44^2 Winter. 31'^ i) 111 the general table will be found one mouth of unusual cold and extraordi- nary clearness of Aveather. In November 18r»;{, the mean temperature of the moiilli was only l!)o.85, but 0.451 inch of snow fell ujion parts of six days, and the month was marked by strong iiortueast winds. The highest mean for any month in twelve years is 08°.;} for July 1800, during which month nine days are recorded upon which rain fell, but no record appears of the amount. The mean of all the minima taken from the daily observations for nine years of the above period is .'?8o.t), and of the maximum for seven years 48o.9, showing a remarkably ecpiable climate, whilst its humidity is demonstrated by the small difl'erences of the wet and dry bulb thermometers. The same appendix exhibits the monthly and yearly amounts of rain, melted snow and hail that have fallen for fourteen years, and also the number of days in each mouth upon which rain, snow, or hail fell, or thick fogs prevailed. The average annual amount of rain, melted snow and hail that fell from 1847 to 18(14, (with the exceptitni of the year 1855,) was 82.06 inches, or -within a fraction of seven feet, (yet five inches less than the fall at the mouth of the Columbia Kiver,) and the average annual number of days upon which rain, snow, or hail fell, or heavy fogs prevailed, was two hundred and finty-five, or two days out of every three, while it does not tbllow that the other days have a clear sky. The following scheme exhibits the rain-fall for the ditferent months iu sixteen and a half years: ALASKA COAST TILOT, 23 Mnntlis. Iiuhi's. Maroh.... April May Juno July AugHHt So])tpiul)er Ootolicr... November. Dprcnibcr. January... February . 4.97 5. ao 4.09 :!.71 4.:)9 aw 9.97 11.91 9.00 7.89 7. «:{ 7.11 Sca.tOMH. Inches, Siiriiij,'. 14. ao Sunnuor. 14. 89 Autumn. 30.86 Wint.'r. 22.0;i Kainy days in 14. 1 vi'ars. 18 Sprin-;. .-'•'■' Sunimor. UG Autumn. 72 Wintor. 57 The greatest amount of rain that fell during any one year, according to the tabulated appendi.x, was 95.8 inches, or eight feet, in 1850; the smallest was 58.0 inches in 1801. The mo.st that fell in anj' one month was 1!).5 inches, in October, 1853; the least was 0.5 inch, in November 1853. But the Api)endi.\ shows that a rainfall of 21.3 inches took place in August 1807; 10.0 inches in September, and about fifteen inches in October, or quite fifty-two inches of rain during the period of our expedition to Alaska. The Appendix gives in detail the daily means for the months of May, June, July, August, and September, 1807, indicating, in part, the weather we have unfortunately encountered, and the amount of clear sky, from means of nineteen hourly observations each day. Liltke has given interesting tables, conii)iled from two years' observations, in 1828 and 1820, wherein we find there were, on an average, eadi year, one hundred and seventy days calm, one hundred and thirty-two days with moderate winds, and sixtj'-thre'} days with strong winds. Also, an a%'erage of seventy-four line days, one hundred and seventy-four days on which rain or snow had fallen at intervals, and one hundrcMl and seventeen days on which rain or snow had fallen continually. Kotzebue says that " in the middle of winter the cold is not excessive ami never lasts long." " Throughout the winter of 1821-'o the weather had been pai'- ticularly mild; the snow in many of the valleys had never lain above a few hoins at a time." "From March to the middle of August 1825, there was an almost uninterrupted continuance of fine weather." The enormous amount of rainfall along a seaboard essentially cloudy through- out the year, has its nornml eliect upon the class of vegetation that Avill succeed 24 ALASKA CHJAST I'lLOT. in ripcnin;? niidpr such r-oiiditiiins of cliiiiato. Tlio whole e.\t«'iit of country sub- ject to tlicsc rains is covered witii spliiifjrniini from one to two feet in depth; even on the steepest hillsich-s tliis carpet is saturated witli water, and renders progress tliroufih it very slow and dillieult, psi)ecially when tliore is a heavy {j:rowth of wood and un(U'rhrush. At Fort Simpson, the Stikine, Chillvalit, Kadiak, Una- hiska, and the islan<'s westward, tiiis unuass exists to the summits or snow line of the mountains. In no part of the country, exeei)t on two or three nnmntain sides on Chatham Strait, between the eastern entrance of Peril Strait and tin* mouth of the Chilkaht, have we seen horbafje or tP'es destroyed by tiro, as is so universally resorted to in Washin^ifor and Oregon, both by the natives and by the settlers. At our dilferent stations we attempted to obtain the temi»erature of the earth three feet below tlie surface, but never penetrated a foot before the hole began to tni with water. The prevailing grinds in winter are easterly, and if from the southward are accompanied with rain and snow; wlien from the northeast the Aveather is gene- rally clear and cold. La I't'-rouse says that when the wind is but a few degrees north of west the sky is geiu'rally pretty clear. When approaching tin; coast in the region of nehriiig liny, he says: "I lirst thought these seas more foggy than those wliieii sei)aratc Europe and America; but 1 should have been greatly mista- ken to have inevocably end)raced this ojjiniou. The fogs of Nova Scotia, New- foundland, and IludscMi Lay have an incontestable claim to pre-eminence from their constant density." The stormy weather comim'uces in October; storms and tempests are frequent in November and December, and from the vicinity of Sitka the aunu'u bcnealis is seen frequently and very brilliant during clear cold nights. The winter weather breaks up about the end of ^larch, and the Kussian-American ('onq)any's vessels arc ready lor their first fur trading early in April, when the weather is cold but comparatively dry. ]Mai'ch, April, INIay, June, and July, and sonu'times August, are good months, with an average monthly rainfall not much greater than that on the Atlantic coast. The geiu'ral oi)inion of the old navigators and fur traders, who visited and aometimos wintered on thi~ coast, was, that after the middle of September it was next to imiHtssible to continue their examinations or trading trips, and they either sought more southern latitudes or wintered in some well-sheltered harbor. The latter was generally avoided, on account of the losses sustained in their crews by the ravages of scurvy. It is to be noted, however, that these tradinit'liirc of tlic ai)pcaraii('t' and cliinat*' of Prince Wiliiani Sound, callinf;- it di'solatc, ;nlooni\, and deserted; snnoiinded liy loeUs and |tine forests; mountains covered witli eternal snow, and ci'veloped in l»erpetual fo^, or invisilile with drizzliiif; iniu. Jtain falls sonu-tinie.s for iiuhoU'. nuintli, and tlure an^ not more tlniii sixty or ninety sunny days iit the year. Durint; llie months of July and AuHUst, the thernunucter showed 5!P on fair days and •10^' ou rainy days. The frost in wilder is vory sovere, hut of short duration, for the south winds chan{;e it suddenly to thaw and rain. CLIMATK or IvADIAK. Wo were uiialde to obtain any niete(;rolo;,'ieal record at St. Paul, and our knowledjic of it is extremely limited. In jicneral terms we know that it is warmer in suninu-r than at Sitka, and colder in winter; and this is corroliorated l>y thu fact that ice obtaiiu'd at Sitka for the Sau I'raucisco nuirket has been found untit for eomnu'rco on account of beiu};' full of air-holes, «S:e., by which it ra|>idly melted, and reeour.sc was had to the ice Ibnued by the colder winters of Kadiak. The yearly supjily t(t San Francisco for the whole interior and seaboard eonsum])tioii is about three thousand two hundred tons, of which nearly one-half is lost by melting'; and it is a curious fact that the demand is no greater now thau it was fourteen years ago. The following information coneennng tlie ice crop was obtained from tlio eom]>any at San Francisco and St. Paul: The ice lake is about five hundred yards tVoni the shore and nearly surroundeil by wotxl, so that the spray from the ocean beach does not vvmh it. It is partly artilicial, having been increased in area and depth by Ibe 1'or\ui;(ion of a dam sixteen feet high, which gives the lake an extent of two tliouw.id lWo hundred feet by seven hundred, and a dei)th of twenty-two feet. The suiptus water drives an overshot wheel giving nnition to a saw-mill. The ice croj) conies to maturity by December; the cutting commencing when there is twelve inches thick of clear, solid ice, and ending in February, when it has generally increased to eighteen inches. The cold is uniform, and the ice lias not been known to nndce more than one and a half inch per night, although the ther- mometer has be(!n once recorded as low as IfSo below zero during the last the or .six years. During these unusual cold epochs the air is quitt! calm and labor practica- ble. The average fall of snow is three feet and lasts nntU June, when it di.sap- pears very (juickly, and grass springs fiu-ward with remarkable rapidity. In the latter ])art of August we found grass growing from the sphaguuni and having an average height of not less than two feet, while in many places it was fully three feet. It is usually cut about the first of August, and cuics veil and rapidly with a few warm days. Some stacks wo examined were in as flue condi- tion and as sweet as any we have seen on the Atlantic .slope. AVestern nn>n with us (torroborate our botanist in saying that this is really a tine grazing country, and ALASKA COAST PILOT. 27 caiMiMc of sustiiiiiiiifi; a very Iutko number of cnttl*'. Tlio coiMlition of ilic cnttU) we siiw iiltoiit St. Pnul, mid on Spruce Islinul, and at tlie frecduu-n'M wttlt'iMcnt, was lint', and tlu^ llavor of tlic l)i'of we olitaint'd was good. TrlicnkolV siiys tliat tln' IJnssianAiiicrican ('onii)any had a randio in one of the bays on tlic soul!; shore ol' Cliiniak l>ay, where two hunched lu'ad of ealtle glazed; nnd also at another station tliey ha«l ii number of eatth* f,na/inf;. Lisianslvy mentions Itarley having' l)een howh in l.S(»4, and tliat it sncceech'd in nniii.; phiees; hut 'Mlie darlv and rainy weather is unfavorai)le to aKrieulture, wliich retiuiresfrrea! lalxirand patience — traits not heloufjin;; to tiie natives.'' Cal»liaj,'i's, carrots, turnips, and j iota toe.s are successfully raised, and liie natives have many well-fenced gardens on the low •around abrea.st of Cliagavka Cove. Potatoes were in bloom when we left, August .'!1. "The clearness of the weatlier dejiends entirely upon the direction of the winds. Fine weather accomiianies winds from the soutii, round by the west, to north; with easting in them, fogs and rain prevail. JJuring the montii of Deccni- per, though the winds blew from the north, the weather was tolerably mild. The thermometer was not lower than i\>>° till the 24tli, when it .sunk to 'JiP. The ground was then c(»vered with snow and remained so several months. The winter, however, was not supposed to set in till the beginning of .laiuiary. Dining its continuaiu'c, a few days of February excepted, th»! air was dry and cleai', witli fiesh winds fnuu the points between west and southwest. The .severest frost was on the liL'd of .lanuary, when the thermometer fell to zero. The last days of February and tiie beginning of ]\larch were also so cold that the mercury stood between l.'P and 14^. During this period I purposely measiiied the thickness of i('e in the ponds near the settlement, and found it to be eighteen inches. On the !tth of .^larch commenced the return of sjuing. (Lisiansky, page 171.) The winter w(> |>assed here was an exceptionally dry one." (Page 1!H>.) Q'he navigators of the Uussian-American Company assure us that the nn)st violent winds are those cth to the .^Ist, the mean temper- ature of the air was 4(P..") and of the water 450..S. CLIJIATK OF TIIE ALEUTIAN IST^ANDS. Our .stay at Unala.ska was too limited to enable us to Judge of the clinnito excei»t in tlic inlluence it has ujion the botany of the islands. There are no trees of any si/.e wiiatever ui)on any of the Aleutian Islands. A few Sitka spruce brought to Unalaska Hay, and planted upon an island in 28 ALASKA COAST PILOT. the western roadsteatl, or Captain's Harbor, -^ome thirty years since, are said not to have grown as many inches in that time; but it appears to mc quit© probable tluit if trees were phiccd in good situations at lirst, and properly attended to, they would succeed. This single and unsuccessful attempt well exemplifies the retarding ettect Avliich the single pud sole aim of fur trading has had upon the development of the colony. Bishop Veniaminoff says that great numbers of d sad willows arc found among the mountains of Uualaskr!. Not a stick of timber can be procured nearer than Kadiak, and every bit of drift-wood is eagerly S( ized upon for fuel, for which the inhabitants are dependent upon the lu'avy growth of sphagnnm covering mountain arul valley, and on the blubber of the seals and sea-lions. Grasses giow luxuriantly, and when cut and cured are used to feed the small Siberian breed of cattle through the winter. The barometer observations of the United States Coast Survey party made during the ascent of the active volcano of Makushin, September 7 to 11, place the luie of perpetual snow on that moniitsiin at three thousand on 3 hundred sind ten fer r, while the lowest limit of the small glacier was one thousand feet lowe> ; and Vv^getation ceased at two thousand four hundred and fifty feet above the sea, ev^ei/t the low foi-m of vegetation known as "red snow." On the 13th of September, when we passed through the Unalga Strait to the I'acific, the whole outline of mountain summits to the east and west was sharply and cleaily defined against a beautifully clear sky, and snow had uot yet appeared upon them. But the published meteorological observations of the Greek Bishop Veuiami- noff, made r.t Iliouliouk, between the 5ears 1825 and 1S.'U, att'ord much useful ma- terial I'rom which to draw fair couclusi'^ns of the climate. We have rearranged his abstn.cts and placed ulie results in the Appendix, but present some of the general- izations in this place. The dates an" reckoiu'd according to "old style." The mean temperature of the j tar, from nine years' observations, is 38"^.03, or 4o.9 oclow that of Sitka. Mouths. March Ainil May Juno July Aiinust ... Seiitcmhcr OltolHT... Novcinber. lliTi'inlici'. Jamiiiry .. Fi'bruiu'y . Fiihreulieit. 29°. XP. 41^. 4C°. 50°. 51°. 43°. :ic° 32° 29°. 29'\ !U°. Season. Spring. 34°.9 Suninior. 49°. 6 Autumn. :i7°. (i Winter. :i(l°. 1 ALASICA COAST PILOT. 29 The mean range ilnring the day, from the morning to the afternoon obsorva- titn, is only 5°.0. The highest teniperatni-e recorded is 77° npon two oi-eai-iionH, ail I the lowest Oo.() below zero; bnt only upon nine occasfons is it reeorded less than ten degrees above zero. Eschsciholtz found the temperature of the earth in the sources of tlic low val- leys 38° and 39° Fahrenheit in the beginning of July 1817. The mean height of the barometer for nine jears is 29.74 inches; the highest reading during that period being 30.71 inches, and lowest L'8.37 inclies. The bar- ometer reaches its highest monthly mean, 29.91 inches, in July, wlien winds from the southeast to southwest prevail; audits lowest, 29.(j0 inches, in November, when westerly winds prevail. The fluctuations of the barometer are >'ery great through- ort the year, averaging 1.78 inches in each month; the greatest range being 2.31 in December, and the least 1.07 in July. The clearest months, without (douds, are December, January, and Febnmry, when the north and northwest wiuds prevail. August, September, and October are the months in which the most rain falls, during which time winds from iliC south to west prevail. The rainfall is not r^con^'Ml, but he says thut rain falls during some parts of the twenty-four hours upon one hundred and fifty days of each year, smd (Estimates the total fall at only twenty-seven inches, which must be much inulerestimated. Snow falls some time in every month except June, Jidy, and August, and is recorded in every month except July. Thuuder-stonns are very rare, only seventeen being recorded in seven years, a .d none in winter. The clearest month is January, and at any season clear weather accompanies oi follows north winds. Very strong windp, prevail from October to March. At Unalaska the aurora borealis is ritrely seen, it being recorded but once during the above period of observation, when it appeared like the dawn of day on the iCth of February 1831, (old style.) On the horizon it was dark, but higher ui) the sky was lighter. Earthquakes are comparatively frequent, no less than thir?y-two being recorded in seven years. VEGETABLE PUODX'CTIONS. At Sitka fruit trees were introduced in the governor's garden, and special attention devoted i;o their culture, but they have not borne fruit, except a few small specimens that never matured. IJerries abound throughout the comitry in great abundance and of huge size, but generally lack flavor, on account of the absence of direct sunlight. 3Iost of the berries were ri])e when we left for Kadiak, August 22, and potatoes were in full blooiii. The potatoes yield avqII, but are of small 8 .e and watery. Turnips, l."e(s, carrots, i)arsnips, and other root croits, with cabbages and tiie like, are cultivaf<'d in a few gardens. riisi!insky found wihl lieas growing on the siiore south of iVIouut ijdgecumbe. < "rani>e. ries grow wild, are t^m ao ALASKA COAST PILOT. quite siiiiiU iiiifl wcll-flavori'd, l)ut not in iibuiuliinco abont Sitka; tlioy might be easily cnltivatnl here, and would form a valuablo addition to the Calilbi'iiiii market, wliieli now n'ceives it.s .sni>i)lie« from the northern coast. Berries of all kinds grow wild and in abumhuiee. None of the cereals are eultivated, aud it is very doubtful if they would succeed. In fact, except a few very small n;ardens beloufiinji' to private individuals, nothing is eultivated, the popidation trusting mainly for their Ibod to the annual siii)plies bnnight from St. Petersburg and Sua Francisco by the company's vessels. There is no space cleared about Sitka for the raising of grass, ami there are i'vw horses and cattle doraanding it; but there ai>i»ears no diihculty in raising as large crops of grr^^s ,• -ir Kai illows are found, but (lu; most valuable wood of the country is tlie yc'i'i v - kedson and frame of one of the Itussian Anu'riean Company's snail ves.v . v.'nich was constructed of tills wood over tliiity two years ago and had been lying a wreck uptui tlie beach for several years, it exhiliit" 'ot the least sign of decay or teredo attacks; the wood around .'lic cop;i( • ,iiii! iroi' ! -'fy. is nearly as "'ell preserved as on tlie (l,i\ the.v were driven. Tlie liiills of all the trading and tishing vessels n- stnicicd (if this durable wood npim am of t!ir innnnierable bays of the Alexander ArclnjK'lago. We liji\ e seasoned a small piece of this wood for one year in a dry, w U ALASKA COAST riLOT. 31 wiU'in room, and it has a. 'weight indiciitiiig twonty-six pounds to the cubic foot. Under oidiuirry seasoning the welglit would l)e over thirty iiounds. The origiiud constructors of Fort Simpson hiid the ground tiujhers »»r pine, thiidcing it tlui best. A piece of tliis cedar having been accith'utally used, on recently replacing the rotten tind)ers, it was found to be tlu- only sound log left after twenty-one years' trial. About Fort Simpson it is scarce, although '.ve saw a sleeper thirty feet long, twenty-eight inches at the butt, eighteen at the extremity, and eight inches thick, besides luisvrought knees, &c., used ftn* boat-building. The bark can be stripped oft" in great sheets, and is used by the Indians lor mats, covers to their eayoes, and to make and cover temporary habitations. In this way great quantities are destroyed. AVhile the vast ftuests of wood exist upon the waters of Puget Sound, Ad- miralty Inlet, and the Strait of Fuca, it nniy be eomnu'rt^ially nnprolltable to cut and ship even this yellow cedar to the California nuirket, unless natixe labor can be obtained at low rates to get it out; yet, ev«'n if unavailable at the present tinui, it affords an inexhaustible resource in futui'e, and Avill jirovc of the greatest importance as the supplies decrease 'o the southward. This timber is found from the southern boundary of Alaska to the farthest point northward we examined in Chatham Strait. The spruce, yellow cedar, hendock, &c., cover the coast as far north as Sterya Bay, whence westward to Prince Willianr Sound very little is known, all naviga- tors i-^iKH'ting a very forbidding low coast, covered in part with wood, but closely backed by the great St. Eliasj range, Avith its summits aveiaging from eight thou- sand to nine thovisaiul feet, and every gorge tilled Avith snow (ir glaciers, The Itussian Company has no factory along this stretch of coast, and their explorers report numerous small streams running through it to the ocean. On Prince William Sound, notwithstanding the severity of the w inters, vege- tation is reported to s])rii!g uj) with great laisidity, ami beriies of ever,- variety and in great abundance lourish Avhere the low shores are not densely covered Avith spruce, aMer, and birch. The same remai".;.- a])ply to Cook's Inlet, with its warmer summer and nu)re vigorous vegetation. Its shores are covered with tind)er. Similar luoducts contiuae to Alaska Peninsula and the northern jMirt of the islaiul of Kadiak, although on this island wo found the trees snuUler and shorter, and growing only in the valleys or low grouiuls, and in comparatively small areas along the northern and eastern coast lilu^s. We saw none covering the nnmntain sides. The only tree worthy the nanu* of timber is the Sitka s])ruce. This tree resend)les in form and foliage our silver lirs. Tim largest we saw were three feet in diameter, and ninety to one hundred feet high. The average size is seldom two f.-et; they are relatively of low growth and rapid taper, ai)t to be too knotty, ai!.i in (ii?<'n exposiu'es branch to their bases. In the governiu's yard wore so'.ie nnists and spars over a hundred feet in length, scarcely tapering two inches in thirty or forty fet^; yet these were from Kadiak Island, so that gootl im ALASKA COAST PILOT. timber of this spruce may be obtained, although we had no opportunity of seeing noteworthy specimens in a j^rowiiij;' state. Many masts and spars are obtained on Spruce Jshiud, ten to lil'teeu miles distant, from whence t'aey arc floated in rafts. The mountains are covered with herba}j;e to their summits; grass grows two and three feet higli over the gently sloping hill-sides; is cut about the first of August, sta(;kcd in the open air, and is well cured and sweet. A-t St. Paul and upon the lands about the settlements ou Spruce Island we '■' iiated the number of cattle at two humlred. The vegetable productions of Unalaska Avere found similar to those of Sitka au,. Kadiak; but no trees exist west of the middle of Kadiak and the peninsula al)reast of it. Turnips and ])o(atoes are cultivated by a few of the Aleutians, after removing tlie covering of sphagnum from the soil; and were there any proper and cultivated incentive to industry and improvement, no one can doubt the capa- bility of the soil for affording fair returns. Bishop Veniaminoff says that the jtotato yields from four to seven fold and attains "great size," when three to ten make a pound weight! He is our authority for saying that among the mountains of Unalaska are found great numbers of dead willows. At Kadiak and Unalaska we fouiul the Elymus growing to the height of Ave feet, with a strong, heavy stalk and a head five inches long: in August it was nearly ripe and seeds were brought east. The grains were numerous as in a head of wheat, and fully as larg(> as those of our best oats. This is the "wild wheat" of the eai:; English fur traders. The botanist of the expedition in his report remarks: "Where grain Uke grasses grow, and mature well, it seems fair to infer that oats and barley would thrive, provided they wora fdll-sown, like the native grasses, which are often in such haste to take root that they even sprout in the ear before reaching the soil. This is abundantly verified by reference to our collection. Several of these grasses had already matured and cast their seed before we arrived, showing sullicient length of season." \\\' found growing in Unalaska Uay, in great cpiantities, in certain localities, the pea called by botanists jrixum maritiiium, and from its luxuriance and size have little doubt but that it could be readily cultivated. It was found in all the stages from flowering to the ripe fruit on the 7th of September. Seed was pro- cured for growing on the Atlantic, coast, but it did not germinate. Lisianaky found it on the shores east of Cape Edgeeumbe. Throughout the whole country the fields arc brilliant with many colored flowers, gratifying the eye, and satisfy- ing the explorer that the country has a moderate climate. The na\igators of the l{ussian-Ameiican Company inform us that the produc- tions of all the islands to the westward are similar to those of Unalaska. Teben kotf says that the potato is cultivated by the inhabitants in every village of the country. We have no available sources of information concerning the vegetation north- ALASKA COAST PILOT. 33 ward of the peniusula of Alaska from Bristol Bay, in 58°, to the mouth of the Kwichpak, in latitude 63°. Fiu-ther to the northwai'd, we have the evidence of Seeman, in his " Botany of the Voyage of H. M. S. Herald, ISiS-'ul," to show that the coast even in this high latitude has a vegetation due to a much lower latitude. He says : " the di- mple is considerahly milder than that of the eastern shores of America in the same latitude. The proofs we need not deduce from artificial tables ; nature her- self has written them on the face of the country. The abundance of animal life, the occiu'reuce of many southern plants, and above all, the limit of the woods, if compared with the opposite shores, furnish iudispiitable evidence. On the east- ern side of America no forests are found above the mouth of the river Kgg, above the sixtieth degree of latitude ; on the western they exteiul as far as latitude (5(>o 44', or nearly seven degi'ees further towards the pole." "The summer sets in most rapidly, and the landscape is quickly overspread with a lively green ; flocks of geese and ducks arrive from the south ; the plover, the snipe, and many other b>ds enliven the air with their notes." "The sun is now always above the hori- zon, and the rays falling continuallj^ upon the surface of the earth prevent the temperature from cooling down too much ; and thus, notwithstanding the low alti- tude of the sun, a degree of warmth is produced which, under other circumstances would not be possible, the the uometcr rising as high as 01° Fahrenheit. With the sun shining throughout the twenty-four hours the growth of plants is rapid in the extreme. The snow has hardly disappeared before a m is of herbage has sprung up, and the sjjots whi(;h a few days before presented nothing save a white sheet, are teeming with an active vegetation, producing leaves, flowers, and fruit in rapid succession." The whole country, from Norton Sound to Point Barrow, is a vast moorland, whose level is only interrupted by promontories and isolated mountains. The rain and snow-water, prevented by the frozen condition of the soil from percola- ting through it, form numerous lagoons, or, when the formation of the ground opposes this, bogs, the general aspect and vegetation of which do not nmterially dift'er from those of northern Europe, being covered with a dense mass of lichens, mosses and other uliginous forms. Places are covered with plants and sonu^timt^s diflicult to pass. " Wherever drainage exists, either on the shores of the sea, the banks of the rivers, or the slopes of the hills, the ground is free from peat. Such localities are generally clad with a luxuriant herbage, and produce the rarest aa well as the most beautiful plants." " The aspect of some spots is very gay. Many flowers are large, their colors bright, and though white and yellow predominate, plants displaying other tints are not uncommon. Cape Lisburne, (in hititude 08° 52',) one of the most produc- tive localities, looks like a garden." " Inland from Norton Sound, about ten miles, groves of white sj)ruc(' trees and salijc speciosa are fragrant; northward they become less abundant, till in latir tude 00° 4', on the banks of the Noatak, the piims alba disappears." 5 34 ALASKA COAST PILOT. To prevent the ravagea of scurvy, the Esquimaux "collect for their winter stock, rasi)berries, whortleberries and cranberries, which are placed in boxes and jtrcserved by being frozen into such a hard mass that in order to divide it recourse must be had to the axe." " In the sub-arctic regions there are plants which the eye is accustomed to meet in the plains of more temperate clinuites. * * • * besides annuals and biennials, and shrubs and trees." "A peculiar feature of the vegetation is its harmless character. The poisonous plants are few in number, and their qualities by no means virulent." It i.s a curious fact that throughout our exploration no reptile, toad, lizard or similar aninml was seen, and Seeman states the same in regard to the arctic and sub-arctic regions. Captain Thomas informs us that this season (18C7) in the Arctic has been remarkably open, and that he reached the latitude of 72° 55'. From the position of Plover Island, north of 71°, he skirted the low coast to the north-northwest and to the west-southwest, iind saw it stretching far v.estward to include the "extensive high peaks" of the maps. So this Plover Idand is only a hill forming the eastern termination of a very extensive land, which was covered with a very luxuriant coat of green in August and September. Here it may not be out of place to state that Captain Long, of the American whaler Nile, in August of the same year, skirted the south shore of the "extensive high peaks" from the above low ground, which he did not see, in 179° to 181i'5. He found a volcano thereon, having an elevation of two thousand four hundred and eighty feet. This is now denominated "Wrangell Laud." MINERALS. Of these little is known, and Prince Maksutoif, late governor of the Russian colonies, acknowledged that the company had been so persistently engaged in procuring furs and studying the best methods of keeping up the supply, that no thorougli mineralogical exploration had been nuule, although a large cabinet of mineraU)gical specimens fi)r comparison had been furnished by the com- ])any to the chief .-stabllshment at Sitka. Under his direction the very few speci- mens of Alaska minerals in possession of the servants of the company were transU-rred to the coast survey and referred to the geologist. The great desideratum of the Pacifu; coast is coal, and we had been led to suppose that some of the reported deposits in Alaska were really coal, but the specinu'us fror.i the island of Unga, given to us by the governor, are nothing nu)re than lignite, thickly marlced with iron pyrites. Moreover, at the worked ontev.tp in Coal Harbor it exists in veins of rarely more than a foot in thickness. This coal has been faithfully tried on the Pussiau steamers, and after very many experiments has been abandoned and recourse had to the Nauaimo coals from Vancouver Island. The navigators and engineers of the Russian steamers report that it is very light, burns with great rapidity, and leaves very much ash and I i Z 1 ^1 CI E P 111 sc ALASKA COAST PILOT. 35 clinker. The same general remarks perhaps apply to the coal ohtaine.i from English Harbor, at the entrance to Cook's Inlet, and lirat fonnd and reported by Tortlock. Unt at the north >, est point of the entrance to Tehugatcliik Bay, under the anchor point of old navigators, there is an tmworked vein of coal of seven feet in thiclcness, and this or similar veins crop ont upon the shore of Cook's Inlet for twenty miles to the northward towards Anchor Point. Tliis coal has not been opened on account of engineering difticulties ; bnt a special survey of T(^hu- gatchik IJay was nnide to exhibit its location. Tliis has been forwarded to t!io Coast Survey office. Wrangell says there is coal along the east shore of Cook's Inlet, southward from Cape Kassiloft". Wosuesscnsky gives details of this formation with a profile of the three layers as they are seen cropping out on the bluff shores. A little north of Cape Staritscldcoff (Stuk-talj-chin) the coal first exhibits itself in two parallel layers, about one hundred and fifty paces from a poorly suj>plied water- fall, which is nevertheless distinguished by a deep and wide basin. Tlie veins are al)out one and a half feet thick, and lie from six to ten fathoms below the toj) of the bank. A little to tiio northward a third is added ; the thickness of the larger decreases from the uppermost. The three continue nearly to the first point of Cape Neniitschik, (or Sanil,) with a dip towards the north-northeast; they disap- pear at the flat coast line at the mouth of the river Chuick-chak, wliere a subterra- nean fire in the veins burned in 1829 and 1830. They reappear at the second point of Cape Neniltsehik with a dip to the south southwest, and tlience marly Inn-izontal to the mouth of the first stream south of the Kassiloff Kiver. Mining Engineer Doroschin carried specimens of this coal to San Francisco, ami it was reported upon favorably. (Grewingk.) Two positions are reported to furnish coal. One has been worked and tried by the Russians, aiul condemned. Tlie location was near Hood's Bay, on the east side of Cliatham Strait, abreast of the eastern entrance to Peril Strait. Indians report coal at Point Gardner, in Chatham Strait, at the entrance to Frederick Sound, in latitude .57^ 01'. Examinations in May, 18CS, show that coal exists in Port Camden, opening upon the south shore of Frederick Sound, about eight miles east of Chatham Strait, in a position on the map abotit latitude 50° 42', longitude 133° 50'. TI>" coal crops out about twenty feet above low water mark, occurs in several veins, with intervening strata of hard rock, the veins about six inches in thickness, at varying distances of twenty to fifty feel of each other, increasing in tliickness inwards, with a dip of .35° or 10° to the southward, and a direction nearly east and west: good anchor- age liere, from six to nfteen fatlioms, over soft bottom: rise and fall of tides about thirty feet: surrounding country thickly wooded. The most important discovery was made by the Coast Survey in October, 1807, in tlie valley at the head of St. John's Bay, opening u))on Newski Strait, about seventeen and one-half miles northward of Sitka. Pieces o( coal I.ngcly intermixed with rock, to whicli their preservation was due, were found for four or five miles fdoug the bed of the small but rapid stream. After a second partial '3G ALASKA COAST PILOT. exploration and obtaining large specimens, it was believed the ooal was anthra- cite, bat a Hubsecpient analysis in San Francisco proved it to be bituniinons; but ironi all the geologic^al evidence the geologist reported that the bed or beds from which it was broken will, if discovered, afford coal of vastly superior quality to any luiretofbre known to exist in the territory; and the government was advised to direct an exlianstive examination of this locality, llecent information has been received that this coal vein, which has been discovered, is of great thickness, is anthracite, has been burned on a United States steamer, and reported upon favorably. The general course of the stream upon which specimens were found is east and west; its rise for the first four or live miles is not very rapid. Along its banks are small areas of flat alluvial land, particularly near its mouth. The channel often separates into two or three, inclosing small islands on the level bot- tom land. The rocks in situ are rarely exposed, but at tvro points on the stream fine black shales and soft friable sandstones, without fossils, however, were seen trending approxinmtely northeast and southwest, and inclined at a high angle. Pieces of coal, much intermixed with foreign substances, i)rincipally limestone of gi'cater or less size, were found along the course of the stream for a distance of four miles. Highly crystalline limestone, white, streaked with gray, was also found in the detritus. The dense growth of timber, thick masses of fallen and decaying trees, covered with deep moss, thickets of the thorny shrub, panajo hor- rida, and the general mountainous character of this locality, will render its future exploration exceedingly difficult. Should petroleum come to be used as a steam-producing fuel on steamshijjs, there is a prospect of a supply being obtained from the southeast shore of Alaska Peninsula, at or near Katmay Bay, in latitude 58° 01', longitude 154° 54', and abreast of Kadiak Island. The governor furnished the Coast Survey with a speci- men of the crude oil obtained there two or three years since. The finder (a teaciier in the Kussian-American Company) reported that he found three streams in the above locality covered with petroleum. Specimens of pure copper have been gathered from various localities, but the princiital source is on the Atna or Copper River, about twenty-live or thirty miles above its mouth, where discovery anS° 24', is abnost an exact counterpart of many rich gold localities in California, but the heavy weather that prevailed while we were there a few hours prevented any other than a casual oxaminaticm of one view of quartz five feet thick cropping out upon the shore. It was much disintegrated and abound'^d in iron pyrites. In Little Naquoshiuski Inlet, fifteen miles from Sitka, the Coast Survey party discovered very fine marble in inexhaustible quantities, and at the mouth of the Chilkaht specimens of marble of a very coarse grain, and others of a remarkably flna crystallization, were discovered, all being white, very pure ami unmarked. On the flank of the mountain Vostovia, which attains an elevation of three thousand three hundred and eighty-one feet, bismuth of remarkably pure quality is said to be found, my informant being one of the llussian-American (!om] ,iny's officers. The weather was so shockingly bad and the season so late, that it was impracticable to send a party of exploration, although the time would occui)y but one day. The specimen obtained was said to have come from the Koloshes Ki\er, but that appeared doubtful, as it was not water-worn, and the geologist made two explorations up the river for two or three miles without discovering any signs. Iron ore is reported in the vicinity of Sitka, but after two searches in the localities indicated the examination was abandoned ; yet in this case the failure is attributed to our inforirtant's inaptitude for topographical description. Kotzebue states that his compass in Chamisso Island, in the eastern jtart of Kotzebne Sound, gave a variation of only 1° east, instead of 32° east. On the point in the southeast part of the sound where the mammoth remains are in lati- tude 00° 15'.3G, the magnetic needle gave a variation of Iflo west instead of '.V2° east. On the summit of St. Paid Island, in the Pehring Sea, he reports the com- pass "turning all round," so that he could get no bearing until he changed his location. The hot springs lying on the southwest part of Sitka Souiul, about fifteen 38 ALASKA COAST PILOT. milos from Sitka, wore not visittMl, aiid wo know iiotliiiiff moro than tlio nioafrre description of liisiaiisky, Simpson, anil otlu'i-s. Thore arc tour distinct springs issuing Ironi tissurcs in the granite rock. At its sonn-e tlic principal spring has a toniiM-ratnre of ir».'{Ao Falircnheit, and is chiefly impregnated with sulphur, but has also salt and magnesia in solution. There is also a largo basin purposely dug in the ground to receive the waters of the springs, about two or throe hundred yards from the beach ami about hfty feet above high water; in it the water baa a tompcraturo of about lOO^ Fahrenheit. The two substantial buildings of howii logs erected by the Russian Company for hospital cases of chronic, rheumatic, and cutaneous diseases, are situated on the sloping fa.-'e of the bank. In front lies a i)retty little cove, completely sheltered by an archipelago of small wooded islands; in the rear is a barrier of rugged mountains; while inime- diati'ly within the influence of the warm waters and continually rising vapors, there grows a luxuriant verdure even when all around is clothed in suow. The adjacent waters are alive with flsh and fowl, and the land teems with deer and other game. Eschscholtz found the temperature of hot springs in a meadow opposite the entrance to Iliouliouk Harbor, Unalaska, 93° or 94°; other hot springs near iMakushin Mountain were tasteless and without smell. On Akutau he reports a hot spring in which meat was thoroughly boiled in a short tinie. Sulphur is l\mnd by the natives in all the volcanic regions. Graphite has been reported on the northern coast, and Kotzobue says that the natives of St. Lawrence Bay, on the Asiatic coast, nearly abreast of Cape Piince of Wales, possessed a tolerably large quantity of a fine graphite.* FURDEABING ANniALS. Of the number and value of the different varieties of skins obtained from the Indians by the Russian-American Company it is impossible to form an opinion, as the voiy existence of their trade depended upon the secrecy with which it was conducted. That the company has been able to maintain a large establishment in ]»ersons and nmterial is strong circumstantial proof of the value of the trade. Tlic abnost absurdly small amount of trading articles paid to the Indians for their most valuable skins was ascertained to be marvelonsly low compared to their prices in our markets. The organization of the company has been, in fact, that of a colonial government, and the governor of the company must be an oflicer of the iini)erial army or navy, with power over all cases not involving death as a punishmeiifc; and all the soldiers are selected for their expertness in the various handicrafts. Tlie immediate traflic of the company has given trade to not less than ten thousand Russians, Alentes, Esquimaux, &c. ; besides fifty-eight hun- dred K(»l()shians, who act as inter-traders with the numerous Indians of the inte- rior. The company has numerous stations or factories throughout the length of •Probulily miciiceoiiH oxide of iron, wliicli in nbund.ant, iind used .as a pigment by the natives. W. IT. Dam.. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 39 the coast and among the Aleutian Ishuuls; maintainiu}; nearly one thousand people regularly ; two fine steamers and several sandier ones, six or eight barks, brigs, &e., and numerous boats. The value of the furs nuiy be estimated yearly at not less than one million of dollars in gold, as the company insure their regular shipments for six hundred thousand dollars. By the time these furs reach our markots they are doubled in value. The Hudson Hay Company had purchased right to trade in certain localities on this coast, and their traders have availed themselves to tiie uttermost to obtain the greatest possible supplies. From the mouth of the Chilkaht alone they took this year over twenty-three hundred martens or "American sables." It is useless to enter into the descrii)tion of the diftcrent kinds of fins upon the coast, or of the Inibitat and relative abundance of the dilferent animals. The governor of the company had a map in colors exhibiting at a glance the habitat of every fur animal and its frequency. The ])olicy of the company has been to maintain a regular supply, and to this end they place restrictions upon the trade, (!ven desigiuiting islands and localities where the aniumls shall not be taken. When the supply of any animal is run- ning short, or an island is found peculiarly adapted to support certain kinds, a stock is placed upon the island and the natives forbiddcMi to hunt there for a series of years. The use of fire-arms is prohibited in the pursuit of certain animals ' die noise is certain to drive them away. The number of sea-otter skins now ai.iuudly obtained does not amount tc over eleven hundred, where the supply seventy years siiu!e, in the Alexander Archipelago alone, was eight thousand, of which it was confessed that the American fur traders secured over sixty per cent. IJetweeu -Yakutat Bay and Dixon Sound, Tebenkoft" says that not a single sea-otter is found, attributing their absence not so much i > *. ueir destruction as to .the noise of fire-arms. An important consideration in sustaining the value of the fur trade, and thereby continuing sin industrial pursuit to the natives, will be the rigid govern- mental direction of the proper seasons for killing the difterent fur-bearing ani- mals, and to a certain extent the manner of taking them. Where the practice is to kill by spears and arrows, without guns, it will be wise to continue the custom, at least until the inhabitants have become accustomed to the new order of things, and the habits of the traders. Where the practice prevails to kill with lire-arms, it appears politic to permit the sale of inferior powfler and arms in prescribed quantities, otherwise those natives obtaining fiu'-bearing animals and game by these means will be at a loss to keep up the supply with bows and arrows, which they have abandoned nmny yeais. Every Indian in the Alexander Archipelago and along the main possesses one or more muskets and one or two single or double-barreled pistols ; bows and arrows are unknown, except as mere matters 40 ALASKA COAST IMLOT. of tnido IIS curioHitifH, uiul for tlioHO purposes obtiiiued from interior or very dis- tant tribfs. In ii few years the wliole fur trade will degenerate into an illicit trafllc with whisky smufinlers, tuiless the most viit'd from the shores. But the greatest advantage is that vessels when Ashing may always lie under the lee of soirie one of the numerous high islands, thus making fishing a much more comfortable business than when riding out in the open sen. In this vicinity there appeur to be two kinds of codflsh, one of which is small, btit of good tpiality. Tliese have always been fduud )»y tlie fishermen, no matter how early or late in the sei'.son the vessel arrived upon tlie ground— say from the first of May to tlie last of September. The other kiiul is considered migratory; arrive about tlie 10th of ]\lay, and leave some time in September. These latter ALASKA COAST PILOT. 43 are a little smallor than the Ochotsk flsh when taken, but when dried turn out heavier. The kind of bait used here is salted herrings from San Francisco, and halibut and sculpin caught on the ground. 1*^ has been the i)ractice of the vessels among the Shumagins to rnn on Satur- day night for Coal Harbor, on the north end of Unga, and remain there over Sun- day night, when they again start out for a week's Ashing. The winds about the Suumagins and in the Ochotsk Sea from June until tlie middle of August are from the southeast with rain and fog; and from the middle, of August to the middle of September from the northwest, with Hue weather and smooth water ; after which there are heavy southerly gales. In our voyage to Iviidiak and Unalaska, and returning to Sitka, Ave saw none of the tmmerous fishing fleet that was out this season, probably on account of the lateness ol the season. The supply from vhe Alaska banks has stopped the importation of codfish from the eastern ports to San Francisco, and when the curing \ rocess is properly understood and carried out, the Pacific coasts of America and Asia will beconui consumers. Tl e yearly supply from the Atlandc States was about five hundred tons; but the jod iieet brought in about tlu-ee times this amount ii» 18(i7, and overstocked the nuu'ket. In 18(18 only ninet(!en vessels left for the (!(>d banks. The fish ha\» not been cured on the Aleutian Islands because the territory bijlonged to Russia, but were kept in salt as long as six mouths, or until the retmn of the vessel to San Francisco, evidently to the injury of the cargo. Many of the persons euga;^';iiig in the business knew nothing of the manner of catcliing or of curing the fish, yet the prices conumuided were from thirteen to seven and a half cents (gold) per pound; and last February the average rate was nine and a half cents. One vessel carried a full cargo direct to Australia, and received eight cents per pouiul. Tlie large amount of flsh con: luued in California has always created and sus- tained a large demand, and tli new cargoes have been fjuickly disposed of at rates ranging as high as thirteen cents per pound. The southern coasts of Amer- ica are almost wholly Catholic in their population, and so soon as the flsh are well cured, the demand from that source will increase. It is doubtful whether we can compete with the Asiatic flshennen in their own ports. Some of the vessels are said to commence flshiu.: along tlMJ Alaska coast noi'th of 54° 40', and to work northwartl along r.nmerous banks which they a[>pear to have louiul. The fish are taken in from fifteen to forty fathoms of water; the best fish in tl.>e deepest Avater. It has bee.i found i)ractically tlmt the Ochotsk Sea is too distant from San Francisco, and the ilccts of 18(>7 aiul 18(58, from Sau Francisco, fishing among the Fox and Shumagin Islands, report that wherever the water is sufliciently shoal the cod is very abundant. In 18(5(5 the largest takes Avere among the Sbunuigin 44 ALASKA COAST TILOT. ^ Islands, off wliicU we s^t sonnilings this year in forty and fifty fathoms at a dis- tance of tliirty-fivc miles. The Moumlliij[,'s of Portlock, of Vanconver, and of this expedition prove the existence of a comparatively shoal bank, extending along the southeastern coast of Afogiiak and Kadiak, with a deep pocket of ninety fathoms, no bottom, twenty- five miles east of St. Paul. The shoalest water obtained on this bark by this expedition was forty-flve fathoms in latitude 58° IC, longitude 140° 42'. It is fair to assume that this bank extends along the southeast sho^e of Kadiak, as inci- dental and unconnected observations indicate. Belcher anchored under Cape Greville, the eastern ])oint of Kadiak, in an excellent position, and his crew caught cod and halibut from the vessel. South bv east fourteen miles from the castein end of ttie easternmost of the Trinity Islands Vancouver found bottom at fifty fathoms. Souiulings on the English Chart No. 2172 give fifty-five fathoms nearly midway between the Trinity Isles and tJkamok Island, which lies on the prolongation of the longer axis of Kadiak, fifty miles from the Trinity. Fifteen miles south of tTkamok Vancouver got seventy-five fathoms, sand and shell bot- tom. In latitude 55° 10', longitude 15(P 07', tliirty-six miles south 31° west from the south end of Vkamok Island, Lisiansky found eighty fathoms over grey sandy bottom. Thirty-five miles east from the south end of the island of Niuniak, the southernmost of the Shumagin Islands, we obtiiined coral and sand bottom in fproxiniate latitude, the posi- tion is in latitude 53o 35' and longitude l(»4o 10', and near it soundings were obtained in fifty fathoms of water, the lead bringing up sand and a snndl starfish. With thick drizzly weather the vessel drifted to the northwest by comjjass, until sixty fathoms were struck with sandy, ju-bbly bottom. Here the lead-line was baited, and while on the bottom the first cod look the hook. The fish proved very plenty, fat, and bit eagerly; frecpuMitly two were brought up on a double-hooked line, and sometimes three were brought up on a line with three hooks. The largest measured thirty-seven inches in length, and several reached thirty-six ALASKA COAST TILOT. 45 inclics. Tlie finest was tliirty-six inches long, tweiity-tliroc inclics girth, and weighed twenty-seven ponnds; was very f;it, and certainly of as line if not finer flavor than cod we liad eaten eleven months before, freshly canght on the south coast of Newfoundland. The vess(!l drifted all the afternoon over this bank, with tho same depth of water and fish biting well, although all appeared in capital condition and their 7'>aws full of food, such as squid, halibut-head, fish the size of a herring, sea-lice, &c., &e. We got no observations that noon or afternoon, nor any all the next day, on account of thick, foggy, drizzling weather, but the vessel could not have been far from latitude 5iP 40' and longitude l(»4o ;3()', lying sixty-five miles east- southeast true from the middle of the Akoutan Pass, and forty nnles south-south- east from the Unimal Pass. The weather was altogether too unfavorable to make an exteiuled examination of this locality. The fifty-fathom position is forty miles broad ofl;" the nearest island of tho Kriniatzin group, lying between iTnimak and TTnalaska. Much deeper water, one hundred and four fathoms, over a bottom of black sand, was snbsecpiently found in latitude 53° 38', longitude 165° 25', forty- three miles westward of the above cod bank, and twenty-five miles broad off the islands. In addition to the alread' cknowledged success of the cod-fishers from San Francisco and Victoria, anti xpcrience, we have that of <'iiiit tin Ibyant, formerly a whaler in the North I'iicific: "Bdning Sea is a mig'ity rewrvoir of cod and halibut, so that he never threw ovn his lines without Iringing up fish in whatever part of the sea he might happen.''* ''In- s(mndiims if this sea, and of the Arctic Ocean north of Behring's Strait, indicate it as the most ri'maikable submarine plateau of such great extent j'et known. On (lie eaMcrn half of this sea soundings of less than fifty fathoms are found i«\(r mi extent of eighteen thonsaiul square miles. The old navigators and fur traders found cod in all tiie iiarbors on the coast and wherever they fished for them. Kotzebue alone dechn cs " • saw no fish on all the American coast; we often threw out our lines, but nil mi. I believe, there- fore, either there are no fish here at all, or they do not n ^mt here at this season," July, August, and Sejjtember. Sjjeaking of the archipelago Alexander, Lisiansky says "the rivers abound in fish; herring swarm in Sitka Sound every spring; tine codfish and halibut of large weight may be caught with the hook and line." Cook in his third voyage caught cod in latitude 54° 07', longitude 104° 25', about seventeen miles southeast from iTninuik Strait in forty-two fathoms. He obtained cod from the Aleutes in Snniganuda Bay, at the northeast part of Unalaska Island, opening on the Akutan Strait. In Behring Sea, in latitude 55° 43', longitude 102° 42', about twenty miles broad otf the northwest «hore of the Alaska I'eninsula, he "caught a good num- ber of fiiu? codlish" in thirty fathoms. In Bristol Bay and Kiver, emptying into •Tilt ic nil III) rod iMirtli of tlin liiie of iloatiiin ice lii'fiirc iin iitioiicil, fioiii flic bent iiifoiiim- tion 1 liiive biirn iible to obtuiu. Tliivc iiiv ut uay iiitf nour in Norton SouikI.— \V. li. lt.\l,l,. 4(3 ALASKA COAST TILOT. tlio lU'liriiit;' Sen, whoro salmon wiTo in iLjroat iibundancc, h« found that fish " in the maws of cod which lie had . iu{,'ht." In the same bay, southeast Hagmeister Island, in water of fourteen to twenty-six fathoms, he "liad tolerably successful lishinf'-,catcliin}'' cod imd then a few Hat fish." In latitude 01° 48', longitude 180°, St. Thadcns Nose bcaiing nortli-northwest about twenty-three leagues distant, he caught >'abundan(!e of line (M)d" in sixty-flve to seventy-flve fathoms water. His successor, King, in Sei)tembcr 1779, in latitude 5(P 38', longitude 177o, about cue hundred and fifty miles west by south quarter-south from the is'raul of St. Mathew, "got a great number of cod in seventy-eight fathoms." Portk .'.. obtained large quantities of fine cod, halibut, crabs and muscles in Tort Etches. Captain Bry- ant says: "South of Alaska, at a distance of say fifty miles from shore, there are banks running parallel to the coast admirable for cod-fishing; these banks can usually be recognized by the lighter color o"" the water." The banks along the shores of Alaska bordering the Gulf of Alaska, around the Kadiak group and part of tlu! Aleutian chain, will add not less than forty-five thousand scpuirc miles, with a depth of not over fifty fathoms, to the eighteen thousand miles of the IJehring Sea. If the fishing deptu is extended to one hundred fathoms there is little doubt that the cod-fishing area will reach one hundred thousand sipuire miles. The fisliing smacks carry their bait from San Francisco at a cost of about one hundred dollars in gold for a one-hundred ton vessel. We fished with clams, the nehizothcnis iixttaUii, obtained at Port Simpson on our way up; but there are l>lenty of small fish, herring, clams, &c., suitable for bait, in all the harbors along the coast. The clam hangs best to the hook. In this connection it may be stated that experience has proved the muscle of Alaskan waters to be very frerinently poisonous. This is, without (h)ubt, the case at certain seasons, as ])roved by Vancouver, Kotzebue. and oilicrs. lint I'ortlock ajtpears to have used them in large (pmntities in Port Etches ; and Lisiansky speaks of them as if used regu- larlj on his vessel. Tin- imptutance of the possession of the Aleutian chain can hardly be over- estimated ; not only can our fishermen enter and fish in every bay when heavy weather compels them to leave the banks, but they give ample opportunities for the successful curing of the fish, certainly as great, if not greater, than exists on the south shore of Newfoundland. Instead of making the long trip to and from San Francisco, and of keeping the fish so long in salt, especially if imperfectly cleaned, it appears feasible to make a general depot and curing establishment, as at Kadiak, whence vessels could carry the catch of all the smacks, which might readily refit in winter and be ready for tin' (qx iiiiig of the next season. Kadiak is mentioned as afiording the nearest a\ ailable timber for repairs, and as already a dejjot fm' the ice crop of the Pacific. In conversation with the governor of the Russian colonies upon the value of the cod fisheries, he acknowledged that the Kussian government had not been aware of the extent, value, and importance of the v'od grouiuls as a new industry ALASKA COAST PILOT. 47 in the Patnflc. While its commercial value is so great to us, it will jirove of great service to the Aleutes, who are patient, skillful, and fearless in their fishing. Under proper guidance they may be very profitably employed in the taking and curing offish; and in order that our fisherman may know where to find labor among these islands, we have procured from the priest of the Unalaska district the population of every village from Attau to Uuga. These statistics will be found under the head of population, &c. In addition to the fisheries of the great baidc, the cod are reported to run in great numbers in the summer around and near the entrance to Hamilton Bay near the western part of Frederick Sound. Lisiansky says they may be caught with hook Owd line in Sitka Sound; Tortlock caught them in Port Etches; IJelcher caught them from his vessiil inside Cape ('hiniak, and doubtless n-any otiier localities will afford abundant local sup: dies. Herring. — In September, when drawing the seine for salmon at Iliouliouk Harbor, several herring were obtained of large size, fatter and of much finer flavor than the herring caught on the California coast. No int'ormatiou was obtained of the season wheu they visit the coast. They are found in the vicinity of Sitka, and doubtless visit the whole seaboard. Portlock nuMitions that "when haxding the seine, he caught large quantities of herring and some salmon. Tiic herrings, though small, were very good, and two hogsheads of them were salted for sea store." Lisiansky says: "Herrings swarm in Sitka Souiul every spring." Seemann says that the herring aiul whiting are caught in Hotham Iidet, in Kotzebue Sound, latitude 67°, in great quantities; muI souu* of the smaller streams produce trout. Wrangell ssiys that suoa' of herring asceiul the Kolyma River, Asia, from the Arctic Ocean, but they appeared to come from the west towards the east. The herring, besides its own intrinsic value, has an important bearing on the question of the cod fisheries in sujiplying bait, which is now carried from San Francisco for that purpose at large prices. Whale. — Tlie waters surrounding the Territory of Alaska have always been celebrated for their whale fisheries, and the Russian- American Company formerly paid some attention to this branch of industry and profit, and had surveys nuulo in Cook's Iidet for ascertaining the proper anchorages and harbors for their whalers in winter. They even established a ship-building establishment in Resurrection Bny on the eastern shore of the Kenay Peninsula, and employed an English superintt inh'ut, but as the whaling was not so remunerative as the fur trade, their v lolc efforts were directed to the full legitimate development of that business. Some of the Russian navigators inform us that their best whaling ground, from the middle of .Tur.o to the middle of July, was in the region named "Fairweather Ground" by the American whalers, and lying between the I'aniplona Reef and the shores off Mount Fairweather. The richness of this locality is con- m ALASKA COAST PILOT. flniu'd by all the nltl iiaviffntois and fur traders, who foiuul these waters aboimd- iiif{ i;< whales, csijecially in the r('f,non of the JJarren Islands, between the Peninsula of Ke,'i;i. and the island of Kadiak. As early as June 4, (1787,) Dixon, when four or five leagues off IJehring Bay, found many whales playiufj about his ship. Captain Bryant says that "Pairweather Oround" is at proper seasons the great recejjtaele of the nn)llusk called "whale's food," a minute aninud, about tho size of a flax seed ; and having a gelatinous consistency, the myriads of them eover the ocean like a scum. This inollnsk drifts along with the coast current towards the west at the rate of about one mile ])er hour. During this season the sea ,ind all the adjacent bays are lilJed with tlui whale. Tiie nn)llnsk collects under the lee of the submarine range of Pamplona. The whaling season continues from the last of June to the middle of July. It beconu's an interesting question to trace back the path of this moUusk ; the indications of whale in the vicinity of the divide of the Japan current, about latitude IS'^ and longitude IfSo, are such as to suggest the probability of the mollusk being brought by the great stream towards the coast. The old navi- gators notice nmny whales in that region as early as April. The clio horealis inhabiting the Atlantic Ai'ctic seas, is a small aninnil with a cylindrical head, body, and a pointed tail, but having in addition a pair of fins, by means of which it progresses. When the weather is calm they are so abundant that the surface of the ocean is covered by them. They swarm in such myriads as to serve as the great part of the food of the whales. This species is not found in the North Pacific, the principal food of the whale there being the "biit," Avhich is conijjosed of small crustacean ami various species of salpse. Off the Barren Isles, at the entrance to Cook's Inlet, and ofi Cape ITermo- genes of the Kadiak group, Dixon (1787) says the whales were so plentiful near the land that their blowing was frecpicntly mistaken for the breaking upon a reef of rocks. Off the entrance to Cook's Inlet, Portlock writes in August, 178G, that "the whales on the coast are close in shore and in vast numbers;" again, "a very great nmnber of (iallicia whales were seen near the shore, and indeed in every direction as far as the eye could reach." Belcher says that in June, 1839, when anchored off Cape Greville, the eastern- most point of Kadiak, " whales were swarming; the numbers seen spouting at the same instant seeiiu'd iiicredil)le, and can only be compared to the ricochet result- ing from Ih'ing the broadsides of a frigate." Ilobuberg says that around the Kadiak group there is found but one species of whale,* (Bahenoptera,) but aconding to its age the natives apply four different names, and almost exclusively catch those of'one year old or less. The whales come into the bays about the michlle of July, and can be hunted until the end of August. ' Au evident error. (Dnll,) ALASKA COAST PILOT. 49 As this ground has not been fished for many years it appears probable tliat large numbers might be obtained. Wrangell says that the inhabitants of the 'lYlmkchee village, on the south point of Koliutschin, or Pnrney Island, in the Arctic, off the Asiatic shores, killed fifty whales, besides walrussciL'. &c., in the season of 1821. He says that a whale was killed on that coast having one of the stone spears of the Aleutes in its body. About Unalaska we saw nuiibers of sperm whale in September; and in August the sperm whaler, William Gifford, was entering the north strait of Kadiak to fill up, reporting as having left the coast of Queen Chai'lotto Island, where four other sperm whalers Avere fishing i'.;!« s*>asou. The Gitibrd had been out from New Bedford since November, 1803, her time being five years. She had sent home two thousand seven hundred gallons of sperm oil, worth $90,000 in gold, and had on board four hundred ban ols more, intending to take nothing but sperm whale until near the end of her cruise. A great many wl'ales are found in Llie straits of the archipelago Alexander, but the veiy deep water is a drawback to successful fishing. For the last six years the Avhaliug fleet of the atretic has averaged not less than eighty vessels, of which seventy belonged to the United States. Their aver- age catch in those wsiters amounts to not less than twelve hundred barrels eiich, and about twenty thoustnd pounds of whjilebone, reckoning the latter at sixteen pounds to the barrel of oil. The priucipal reasou given by the whalers for prefer- ring the Arctic regions over the Gulf of Alaska is the shallower water, in the Arctic Ocean and Behring Sea the ^ipth of water is about thirty fathoms, and the whale, in " sounding," after being struck, dives his head into the muddy bottom, and has it covered with mud when he rises. The whaler learns readily where and when he will rise i^ such a depth, but in the deeper waters of the Gulf of Alaska the whale dees not strike bottom in sounding, and it is very difficult to estimate where he will rise, and not unfrequcntly sounds again and again, and thus draws the boats far from the vessel. The command of all the bays and straits of the northwest coast resorted to by the whale gives very great advantages to our whalers that need only be men- tioned to be appreciated ; fishing at all seasons, opportunites to winter and refit, depots for cargoes, and regularity in transshipping them to the eajt or to the Pacific ports. It opens the broad question whether the whaling cannot be more effectually and more profitably done in smaller vessels specially designed and con structed for capturing the whale, and then storing the oil at some depot in the Behring Sea, whence it can be regularly shipped to destinatio!i ; while the whal- ing vessel, working until the latest day '>f the season, discharges her crew of Aleutes among their island honvjs, and lays ip for the winter in Alaskan harbors, ready for the whaling ground-, at the earliest opening of spring. If this be done, with the increased knowledge of the whale's habits and the aptitude of the Al< utes, the American whalers can sweep the field of foreign competition. 7 50 ALASKA COAST PILOT. ' WALRUS IVORY. Coal ITaibor, on the north side of the iisland of Unga, has been the point for receiving the wuU-us tusks obtained from the Wahnis Islands, on the north side of the Alaska Peninsula. During tlie Aviuter the walrus is said to be driven by great bodies of ice into the larger bay, thirty miles long and ten miles wide, embracing the Walrus Islands. Here the uitivcs kill them, secure the tusks, and trade them to an employ^ of the Eussi an- American Company stationed at the storehouse in Moller's Bay, at the mouth of a small stream in latitude 55° 5.V, and longitude 100° 41'. Thence the stock is carried on the shoulders of the natives, or on dog-sledges, across the peninsula to the head of Portage Bay, twelve miles deep by four miles wide, lying north-northwest and south-southeast by com- pass, and directly north of Unga Island. In Portage Bay they are met by another body of natives in their bidarkas, or skin canoes, from Coal Harbor, whither the tusks are transported. In some seasons ten tons of these tusks arc secured by the Indians, and they are valued at seventy cents (gold) per ponnd at Sitksi. Largo quantities of the tusks are obtained in trade and capture by the Arctic whalers, who also try out the oil. The skin of the walrus is used by the Aleutea and by the Esquimaux for constructing their large travelling boats, (!alled baidurs, capable of carrying ten tons of freight. At the saw mill on Woody Island, oppsite St. Paul, the Walrus hide is successfully nsed for heavy machine belting. The systematic linnting of the wahnus, prompted by better prices than have been paid by the barely life-sustaining tariff of the Russian- American Company, will develop this valuable branch of industry. Arctic whalers just from those Milters assure us that the number of these animals is incalculable. Near Point Mulgrave, in the Arctic, Cook found them in great numbers ; one weighed eight hundred and fifty-four pounds; and they are generally of the size of an ox, Near Cape Lisbnrne "the numbers of walrus is almost incredible;" his crew liked the flesh, and called it "marine beef." When Kotzebue was at anchor in eighteen and one-half fathoms, on the north side of East Cape, "thousands of walrus played round the ship, and roared like oxen j and among them appeared several whales." POPULATION AND GENERAL CnARACXERISTICS OF THE INHABITANTS. It is not necessary to enter into an elaborate account of the divisions and subdivisions of the Indian races that inhabit the seaboard of Alaska, although wo have had translated and gathered nuich material upon that subject ; nor is it ex- pected that any account of the manners and customs of the people will by required. Tiie annexed otticial table of the population of Alaska, excluding Esquimaux, Kohishes, and inland tribes, has been obtained through the kindness of Prince :Maksutoff, from the archives of the Russian-American Company at Sitka, and includes the Russian half-breeds, (known throughout this territory as Creoles, (the Aleutes, the Aliaskans of Alaska Peninsula, and the natives of Cook's Inlet, or ALASKA COAST PILOT. 51 Keiiay Bay, rrince William Souud, and Copper River. The inhabitants of Lenni- sin, Behring and Copper Islands, are embraced by the table ; bat in arriving at the numbers now subject to the laws of the United States, tlioy and the llussians are excluded from the final enumeration. The total adult and minor pojiulatiou then stands four thousand five huudi'ed and eleven males, and four thousand five hundred and five females. The Koloshes are inhabitants of the Alexander Archipelago, and extend as far west as Yakutat or Behring Bay, while many of them visit the Atna or Copper River every season for the purposes of trade, and are supposed to muiiber four or five thousand, although Tebenkoft' place them at forty thousand I and describes them as a fierce and treacherous race. Bishop Veniaminoff enumerates all their villages, and sums up their total numbers at five thousand eight hundred from Dixon Sound to Yakutat Bay. Kot- eebue says they bear the same relation to the human race that polecats do to other qimdrupeds. The Esquimaux north of Norton Sound and round the Arctic shores are esti- mated by Beechey to number twenty-five hundred, which estimate is, doubtless, excessive. Through the courtesy of the officers of the company we are able to fur- ther subdivide the numbers given in the table among their respective islands and districts : On the Island of Atton, one hundred and fifteen male and one hundred an*' five female Alcutes. On the Island of Atkha, one hundred and forty-six male and one hundred and fifty-nine female Aleutes. On the Island of St. Paul, one hundi'cd and forty-seven male and one hun- dred and thirty-six female Aleutes. The population of the islands and villages of the Unalaska anti tJnga dis- tricts was kindly furnished us by the priest of Ilioidiouk. and dil&rs slightly from the records at Sitka. It is here given in extens^^as indicating to onr fishermen and traders where labor can be procured. It is compiled for the year 18G7. On Unalaska Island : In tho Ilionliouk settlement Makusliinski village Kiishu-gliiu-ski village Tclieruofski village Setshekinski village Imagwinski village Making a total of ,'>70 souIh on Unalaska Island On Uiurka Island Akoii Ics. Feniali!s. 153 156 23 26 ;;f. 3,3 33 29 21 28 17 15 4:< 42 r)0 4 103 33 38 156 l.'iO C4 75 Upon the islaiuls of Kadiak and Afognak there are of Ru.ssiati8, .50 males ; of Creoles, adult n»ale.s, 200, diildren, 240; adult females, 21(i, children, 196; of Aleutes, adult males, 02S, children, .'$20 ; adult females, i'iOO, children, 324 ; mak- ing a total of 2,400. The Kolo.shiau colony at St. Paul, formed of redeemed slaves of Sitka, is iu)t enumerated; judging from the number of houses they probably number sixty people. On Ala.ska Peninsula, opposite Kadiak, there are of Aliaskans, 439 adult males and 311 children ; of adult females, 422, and 2G1 children ; making a total of 1,433. The Indians about the entrance to Cook's Inlet, and round to Copper Eiver, number 223 adult males, and \~A children ; 225 adult females, and 113 children. The Indians in the northern part of Cook's Inlet number 324 adult males, and 107 children ; ,303 adult females, and 203 children. The Aleutes are very distinct in their looks, manners, hiTiguage, and customs from all the otlier Indians of the Northwest, and many of tliem bear a close re- semblance to the less marked of the Japanese, so much so that the question at once arises whether this people has not been directly derived from castaway or .shipwrecked inhabitants of Japan, carried thither by the Kamtschatka branch of the great Japanese stream; but it is not our province to investigate the problem in this place. They are a (piiet, patient people, gifted with a great deal of ingenu- ity, and always trusted implicitly by tliC Russians. The priest of the TJnalaska ALASKA COAST PILOT. 53 district is an Aleut, and a man of moro than ordinary natural ability and taate. Tlio surgtH)n of the company service at Iliouliouk, now the Coast Survoy tidal observer, is also a full-blooded native, who has a<'(|uitted hinisc^lf creditably in his observations. Many of the block-houses of the Russian Company are constructed by the Aleutes; aiul the church at Iliouliouk is a piod specinu'u of their workman- ship 5 even the capitals of the interior wooden cohunns were carved by them with rude means. They make skillful mechanics, and the principal mechanician and in- stnunent-repairer at Sitka is an Aleut, who early displayed talent, and was sent at the company's expense to St. Petersburg, where he learned the business of an op tician. His workmanship exhibits talent that needed a large flehl to develop. This man's wife, a full-blooded Indian, and their daughter, attended by conunand the ball given to the United States officers by the Prince and Princess Jlaksutoff, during our stay at Sitka. The thirty-eight charts of Tebt'ukoflf's atlas were drawn and engraved upon copper by a lialfbreed Aleut named Kadin. The bidarkas or skin canoes of the Aleutes, constructed for one, two or three persons, are tino specimens of ingenuity and form; the light frame is constructed of wood, where the article is so scarce that it must be brought from Kndiak or sought for on the beaches. In the management of these canoes they display cool courage and thorough knowledge of their capabilities. In the early days of the first sea-otter hunters, they made coast voyages of a thousand to fifteen hun- dred miles with them, traveling from Unalaska as far as Sitka Sound. Vancou- ver found seven hundred of these canoes, with fifteen hundred natives of Unalaska and Kadiak, as far eastward as Behring Bay. Baranoff took six hundred of these canoes and one thousand men to Sitka in 1804. As models they are not excelled by any of those seen on the Pacific coast ; and as simple mechaiiical consti actions, they are vastly superior to any southward. Their large skin boats, baid.irs, capable of carrying from forty to sixty per- sons, were used in triuling between distant I^'lands as far as r>t. Pan) ami St. George, when the llusfiians first reached the couul^vy. They are still in use, and were employed at Ulakhta harbor to coal the stv^amer. The Aleutes are very ingenious in their tn ps for catching the smaller fur- bearing animals, very neat in their spears, rsalrus larbs, and sinew twine, and apt in adopting the simplest means to obtain their dnds. We obtained a speiii- men of their application of the cam in so trifling an article as a clasp for holding the edge of any fabric which they are sewing. They soon become very handy with the use of ordinary tools, do good blacksmith work, use the lathe, &c.; but, untbrtunately, have had few incentives to continued industry and improvement. The great number of officially recognized holidays during the year — eighty -six besides Sundays — has a very bad effi?ct upon their industry, and tends to keep them in close acquaintance with poverty. In fact, the want of incentive for in- dustry is the great drawback to development in general on this coast, and would appear to have been the unexpressed but inevitable policy of the Itussian-Aj^ieri- can Company. 54 ALASKA COAST PILOT. Ill carviiif,' fl},niros from walrus tiisks, or tlio tiiskH of the fossil maiiiinotli fouml <»ii Ivotzt'ltiif Sound tin- Alt'iitcs display patience, and in many eases eoiisid- eral>ie in^jenuitj, eonstrnetinj,' out itf walrus tusk small litfuros of liiuiters, rocks, seal and flsli, rejtresentiiiK the practice of seal-huntiiitf, making mimic representii- tioi. of their danciii;j and musical entertainments, &c,, &c. Jn hunting the sea-otter aiul seals they exliibit their tenacity of purpose by \vatc!ii;:r for days at a time rather tiian lose the object of their pursuit. TIum do not use 'he bow and arrow, but the small ivory-headed spear, thrown with the aid of a hand-board, and tiieir exhibitions of skill proved their exi)ertness and luoliciency. Most of the crews of the Russian Company's vessels are <'()mposed of Aleutes, but they do not make the hardy sailor that the European or American does. Another pe(udiarity w(i noticed in then- favor at Unalaska: whenever a woman was one of two oi' thnse persons in a bidarka, she was not compelled to use the padiUe, as we have heretofore invariably seen on the Pacific coast. Tlie women are v(ny ingenious in nuiking a great variety of stitches in tie 'r sewing, and those of Unalaska have always been noted for skill in and the beauty of their sewing. • No miu'der has been committed among the Aleutes for the last fifty-two years, and when the last occurred the whole race was horror-struck. Of the Ivoloshes, of t\u' Alexander Archipelago, we have seen comparatively little. They have forty large houses outside the stockade at Sitka, averaging thirty feet front by fifty deep and twenty in height, constructed mostly of boards from two to four feet wide, which they make from the spruce and cedar. Enor- mous posts ami beams form the franu^, and they are roofed with Itoards similar to the sides, but have no chimneys, only an oi)ening in the roof for the exit of smoke. Some of them have pretensions to comfort and cleanliness inside, hav- ing well-scrubbed boards laid for a floor, round the center space of six or seven feet square, Avhich is filled in with pebbles and nsed as the fireplace. Their canoes, hollowed from the trunks of trees, display much less ingenuity and grace than those of the Chinooks of the Columbia river, or the Clallams of the Strait of Fuca anil Admiralty Inlet. They have always been a fighting race, attacking the early traders and discoverers whenever they could do so at an advantage. They attacked A'ancouver's boats upon several occasions, and in 1798 attacked and destroyed the first settlement of Sitka, a few miles westward of the present location. In 1804 they had a stoekatled village and fort at the present site of Sitka, with several four and six-pounders worked by American traders, and sus- tained an attack from the Neva nnder Lisiansky. The error in all the past policy of treating Mitli them has been to acknowledge the importance and power of their chiefs, so as to secure their trade in furs from rival traders. This error has been Tontiinied to the present day, and upon the slightest opiwrtunity, or for fiuuied ."-light, they assume immense airs, swagger with cool insolence, and threaten war. The practice of the Kussiau- American Company of selling to them certain quan- AFiAHKA COAST PILOT. 55 titioH of nun liiis traiiHiiiittctl !o our {{ovorniiuMit a lofjacy progiumt willi iiiiiny evils. Till' ptdicy of tnuliiitf (iicuriiis, powder, aiul hall to tiu-ni for ti'iii|ioiiny gain ill tiiulo lias assisted in dejieiiemtiii},' the laco and etVeetivlly «lcstroyed tlieir liatiiial wealth, the sea-otter. The prohleni to Iw, solved is a peculiar one, and it wonld h(> out of jilace to make suKKCstions as to tlui hest.poliey to be pursued in treatiiif;- tlieni, especially as tha present luilitary governor, Major (Jeneral ,1. ('. Davis, eonihines the reiiui- sites for success in iuaiia{j;iiig and controlling,' them, altliou«:h his policy must suf- fer much derangement by the illicit introdiuitiou of spirituous liquors, so readily and secretly effected through the hundreds of harbors and channels of this archi- pelago, esjiecially as the Indians, from a love of rum, assist in warning and hiding the smugglers. Uiiiforin kindness, strict justice, prompt decision, and rigid exe- cution of purpose are the corner-stones of any policy by which they can bo humanely governed. As traders they are shrewd, long in deciding, exacting presents after a bar- gain is made, and do not hesitate to break any contract. On the Stikine lliver they caused some annoyance to the early miners, but of late they have not proved troublesome, especially since the death of two prominent liostile chiefs. The Indians from the neighborhood of Kake are the same that sent a canoe-load of fighting men, about the year 1850, all the way from the Clarence Strait to Wli id- bey Island, in Washington Territory, to behead ex-collector of customs, ICbcy, in retaliation for the killing of one of their chief men when the United States steamer Massachusetts opened her batteries on the temporary encampment of Stikine or Kake Indians on the saiul point opposite the saw-mills of Port (iambic, where the men were employed as laborers. Two or three years since some of the sub-tribes, twenty or thirty miles west of the Stikine, captured the English trading schooner Koyal Charlie, murdered her crew, and plundered and scuttled the vessel. In May, 18(52, between two hundred and fifty and three hundred of the Indians on the west side of Chatham Strait, and about twenty-live miles north of Cross Sound, or ley Strait, seized the cap- tain and chief trader of the Hudson Bay Company's steamer Laboiiclierct, of seven hundred tons, on the quarter-deck, and taking possession of the vessel drove the crew forward. But parleying took place, and the crew luuir.g a large g'lu trained aft, agreed to fire oft' their rifles, the Indians afterwards doing the same, and finally leaving the vessel, which at night quietly steamed away and was afraid to return for a year. It is but just to the Indian chiefs to say that when the vessel returned they covered her deck with fine sea-otter and other skins as a present to the captain and trader and a token of peace. One or two other instances of attack upon small traders have been brought to my notice, but enough has been stated to show th.it these Indians must be treated with lirmness. The commercial rivalry that has existed between the traders of the Russian- American Company and the Hudson Bay Company, which held a trading lease of part of the Kussian sea-bound territory, has tended to keep ali\e and engender 5(5 ALASKA COAST PILOT. excited frolinjrs on the pjut of the Indians. Illicit traders, with whisky in their ciirj^o, will hcij^liton all the bad i>assi()ns of the rnv Telu'ikott" says the Kolo- slics are treaclicrDus, iiroud, and fond of fjain, but tiuit the first (inality has been gradually controlled since the introduction of steamers in the fur trade, the Indians acknow.' dging that these vessels can find them out promptly and punish them. The natives inhabiting the coast between Behring Bay and Prince William Soiind are called (Jgalcnse: llicy are not numerous, reckoning only t»bout thirteen hunilred souls, and living upon iish and the products of the soil and trade. The Coast Indian.; on the southwestern part of the Alexander Archipelago are ITydahs, air^ belong to the nation that occupies the Queen Charlotte Islaiuls. Prom Portland Canal southward towards \ancou\er Island, along the main and the bordering aichijielago, the Chimshyan nation holds the country nearly to Millbank Sound, where the Bellbellas comrucnce and continue down Johnstone Strait. Of (he characteristics of the natives of Prince William Sound, Cook's Inlet, ami Alaska Peniusnla, we have no reetuit information. They doubtless have ;.y; and the western and southern point of Alaska Peninsula is in latitude 55" and longitude 10;$^, where it is separated by the impassable Strait of Isanotsky from the extensive but nearly snow-clad island of T''iiimak, marked with great volcanic peaks covered with eternal snow. Prom Isiinotsky Strait the Al, utians sweep in a very regular curve to the Hoiitii^vard and we.-.t\va(d for seven hundred aud fifty miles, reaching the latitude of 5U" in longitude 18(1°, and thence northward and westward three hundred and twenty-flve miles towards Behring Island, in 55° of latitude and 195° of longi- tude; but Attou, the westtin of the Aleutians, and (Copper Island, Just east of iJcbriiig Island, are separated by a strait two hundred miles wide, through the niiddlf of wliiili the boundary line of the treaty passes. Tlie Altaitiar. Islands are the summits of the Alaskan range which sweeps along the American coast from the southward and eastward, thence round the I ALASKA COAST PILOT, 57 hoad of Triiice William Souml and Cook's lulet, and domi the Alaska Peninsula. The i)eninsiila and islands arc marked by forty or iifty volcanoes in activity, and reaching elevr oious as great as twelve thousand feet on the west shores of Cook's Inlet, eight thousand nine hundred and flfty-three feet on Cnimak, five tliousand six hundred and ninety-one on Unalaska, four thousand eight hundred and Iifty- two on Atka, six thousand nine hundred and seventy-five on Tanaga, three thou- sand seven hundred on Kryska, and three thousand eighty-four on Attoii, Norih of the peninsula of Alaska the coast has a general direction northward to latitude (iO^ in the Arctic Sea, indented by four large bays or sounds, respect- ively named JJristol, Kouskocjuim, Norton, and Kotzebue; and receiving among others the great river Youkou, having its sources about L%o west longitude in British America, The extensive sheet of water north of the Aleutians to Behring Strait, in latitude G^jp, and between the American and Asiatic continents, is known as Behring Sea, and, so far as .-"junded, consists of very extensive subnuirine lev'.'ls of remarkable exeuness of surface at a very small arly north-northwest from Cape Oinmaney, in latitude 50o 10', to the mouth of the Chilkaht, in latitude 59° 11', with an average Avidth of seven or eight miles, and great depth of water. This great strait has numerous anchorages and sumll bays, and several large passages connecting it with the other straits to the eastward, and two important ones with tlu; sea to tlie north of Sitka. Of the iatler, one passes through IVril Strait and Salisbury Sound to the Gulf of Alaska, about twenty miles north of Sitka Sound, with a navigable branch to Sitka, and the second through Cross Sound, or ley Strait, to .S 58 ALASKxY COAST PILOT. the Gulf of Alaska, about seveiity-flve miles north of Sitlca Sonnd. The north sliore of Cross Souiid is the southern part of the i)eninsnla of the mainland lying between Chatham Strait ami the (iulf of Alaska, and the termination of the fjroat niiiye of coast mountains that embraces ilouuts St. Elias, Fairweather, and Crillon. To the iibove extensive archipelago, embra(!ing' a shore-Hue of nearly eight thousand statute miles, wo have applied the name of "Alexander Archipc^lago," in honor of the Enii)eror of Russia. From Icy Strait the coast is very slightly indented by bays up to the extreme northern part of the Gulf of Alaska, in longitude 111'°. Here the extensive area of Avater, islands, and peninsulas, known as rrince William Sound, stretches inland to the base of the great mountains for sixty miles, with a width of nearly the same distance. One hundred miles westward of that sound is Cook's Iidet, and the ])eninsula lying bet'..eeii them is denominated the Kenai Peninsula. aENEUAL APPEAKANXE OF THE COAST. The sea-coast of the Alexander Archipelago is formed of very irregular outline on account of the lunmrous bays, straits, and islands. The south coast, facing upon Dixon Sound, and extending eighty miles from the mouth of Port- laud Canal to Cape Kygani, exhibits headland, s' ;re, and mountains covered M itli Sitka spruce and yellow cedar to their summits. The nu)untains attain an eli'vation of two or thiee thousand feet, with no valleys for cultivation between them. The same description ap])lies to the coast from Kygani to Icy Strait. It is remarkable that outside the sea-coast line of this arclii]telago but two islands are laid down, both being small, and t-^n to fifteen miles off the island of Prince of Wales. The same absence of coast islands Mcstward of Icy Strait is remarked as far as the eastern mouth of Coi)per River, in longitude 144:0, being a distance of five hundred miles of coast from Kygiini. AVcstward of ley Strait the coast mountain range attains an elevation o^ about eight or nim> thousand feet, covered in most part with perpetual snow; with some magnificent siu)w peaks reaching the great height of nearly fifteen thousand feet, and freciuently seen at a distance of over one hundred and fifty miles at sea. The imnuHliate sea-coast west of Letuya Bay or Port Franyais, thirty-two miles northwestward from ley Strait Sound, to Prince William Souml, is compara- tively low wooded ground, but (ilose backed by icy-faced steeps that como down from the high mountain range, and, as at the head of Behring Bay and Icy Bay, fre(pu'ntly reaching the coast line. A great part of the innnediate shores of Prince A\'illiam Sound is low, a', are most of the projecting arms and sonu' of the islands on tlu^ western sidi. The extrctne northwestern arm of this sound stretches through what is laid down on ALASKA COAST PILOT. 59 the map as low ground, to within ten miles of the head of Tnvn-again arm of Cook's Inlet. The western shores of Kenai Peninsula are low and well wooded, but rise to bold mountains a few miles baek. Although the elevation of this spur or penin- sula is less than that of the Mount St. Klias range, yet it is sufficiently great to develo]) numerous glaciers, which work down to the waters of the sound and to the heads of the bays on the southeast coast. A very large one exists on the lake at the head of the river Kassilotf, debouching into Cook's Inlet iibout latitude COO 20'. The peninsula of Alaska appears to be formed by a continuation of the Mount St. Elias range, brokeu or deflected at Prince William Sound, and embraces some very high and volcanic i)eaks. The southeast shores of the peninsula are gene- rally bold and rocky, and as far we.stward as abreast of the islanproxiniately determined, in very thick weather. Soundings obtained tliirty miles olf tiie .Sliuniagin Islands indicate a bank in that vicinity. Other banks, freciuented by the codfishing vessels from San F-ancisco and Victo- ria, exist in the western part of the Gulf of Alaska and among the Shumagiu Islands. Off the south shores of Unimak and Unalaska rocky islets are said to exist and to have been visited by Aleutes in pursuit of sea otters. Of tlie waters adjoining the (-oast very little is known with accuracy. The currents have been oidy incidentally determined; the surface and deep-sea tem- peratures liave not been investigated, and the general results are obtained from the i)ra('ticai experience or opinions of navigators, in a region where ths oppor- tunities for determining a vessel's position are very limited indeed, on account of the large percentage of thick weatlier. From tlie navigators of tlie liussian-Americau Company we have obtained much valuable infornmtion, many interesting .acts and descriptions, and some mannscri])! maps and tracings. In cons;ib'ng the works of the old navigators many important descriptions of headlands, bays, &i'., lie scattered t'nrough their volumnious pages; and in the following descri])tions all that was not i • rsonally observed has been collated from the Old navigat(Ms, diseoven is, and fur-traders, or obtained directly from the Rus- sian navigators, and TebenkotV's di'scription of his atlas. Coiisideiing the means at their disposal, and the special objects of the Ilns- siaii-Ainerican Company, they have added very much to our stock of general geographical knowledge, and the archives of the company would doubtless reveal much more. In matters of minute detail tiieir surveys are detieient, but their genera! results are good. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 61 CUKUENTS OF THE NOUTIT rACIFIO. ThcNorth Pacific presents a peculiarly striking analogy to the Xortli Atlantic in the existence of a great warm current, which sweeps along the eastern coast of Asia to the northeastward, crosses the Pacific, washes the northwest coast of America, affects the climate of the whole coast, and gives a much higher tempera- ture along the seaboard than would exist under normal circumstances. The Japanese have long been well aware of this great current, which washes the southeastern shores of their empire, and have given to it the name Kuro-Siwo, or Black Stream, ft-om its deep blue color when compared with the neighboring waters of the Pacific. It has been noticed by nearly all tlie old navigators and explorers, and a systematic series of observations was undertaicen by the L'uited States expedition to Japan under Commodore Perry. This singular current, with the water at an average maximum temperature of 80° — being that of ecpiatorial waters — aft'ords a solution to the fact of the lioiiin Lslands, in the latitude of -7J°, having an exclusively troi)ical vegetation, tlio cause of which was long a mystery to naturalists. It also acctmnis for the pro- ductiveness of the southern islands of the Jai)an group in sugar and other pro- ducts, usually confined to intertropical regions and to the successful deyelopmeut of the silkworm as high as latitude 15°. The results of observations, (corroborated by the fact of the high temperature above stated, show very satisfac orily that tlie Japan stream has its origin in tho great northern equatorial current. This great northern erpiatorial current, leaving the coast of Lower California and the Gulf of California between the latitudes of I'P and L'.^o, s>veei)s across tho whole Pacific, with its axis two or three degrees south of tlie Sandwich Islands, and thence continuing on the parallel of I'P, and coming gradually northward until it passes the position of the Ladrone Islands, in latitude 17°, and longitude 214° west, is gradually deflected to the north and northeast, along the Asiatic coast, but ai)parently with decreased velocity ; although neecliey siiys that, when between the south eml of Formosa and the island of iiotel Tobago Sima, lying sixty miles eastward, he experienced a current which carried the vessel n'hirls and eddies observed in the middle of the great Ja])an stream, off the coast of .lapan, indicate the existence of a similar cold sub-current ; and walls of cold water aro indicated by the observations of the United States expedition, lieechey's thermal observations on the southern edge of the great stream, in latitude ',ir>° and longi- tude 194^0 west, corroborate these indications, for he found the temperature of the water at seven hundred and sixty fathoms 28*^ colder than at the surface ; and two days later, when on his course north northwest to Fetropaulski, in the fork between the Kamtschatka arul Japan streams, "the tempeiature at one hiuulred and eighty fathoms Avas as cold as at live hundred fathoms in the above position; and also that it was 20° colder at three hundred ami eighty fathoms in this position than it was at seven hundred and sixty fathoms in tlu> above," Thus, at three hundred and eighty fathoms he found the temperature 18° colder than the surface water of the great stream, which had already left the coast of Ja[)an * III the vicinity of Siuiak Island aud rci-f, thoro is a current (Si'ptcnil)pr 15, 1865,) of a knot and a half an lionr to the north and east. Surface tomiuTaturn '>('f. — VV. If. Pm.i,. 66 ALASKA COAST IMLOT, twelve ImiMlroil miles. Of couiNe, nndcr siich tliennnl conditions, Upocliey found liiinscif eiivcloix'd in dense and confinuoiis fo;;-.** and dri/zliiif,' rains all the way to I'etntpanlski, witii the exception of one tlay in latitude ."ioo. On the southern edye of the great stream, almost idontieally in the j)osition of Heeehey, Kotzebue was remarkably iiiHuenoed by the cold current which had underrun the warm stream and risen to the surface. In latitude .'iP .'}', lonj-itudo 1040 S', a violent current carried the ship, on the 1st of April 1.S17, thirty-six miles .south _'(P west; ami on the L'd, thirty-six and three quarter miles south 18° east. This eurreut was accompaui(!d with a hi;;h sea from the sonth, and the tem- jjcrature of the air fell from 8;50.8 to 04°."), and to us very cold. On the :Ul of Ai)ril, in latitude ;U3 1i7', lonjiitude lO.'P 47', the current set tlu^ vessel south 81° west thirty four miles. Tin was a faint wind, aiul he noticed the water ripple on tlu- surface of the sea, caused by the currents. In this position the tempera- ture of the air was (>(»0; of the surface water uSo..">, and at a depth of two hundred and fifty fathoms 48o.5. On the 5th of April, in latitude 35° 35', longi- tude 1010 4'J', by {-ood ol)servatious, the current had carried the xcssel in two days lifty-two and three-(piarters miles sonth 34° west. In the fiist positions Beechey and Kotzebue were fourteen hitndred miles east of the .Tai)an coast, ami ten hundred and fifty miles broad off the Kurile Islamls. While there is no doubt whatever that the greater body of water of the great Japan stream Hows to the eastward after dividing ott' the coast of Japan, the fact is also evident from the decreased velocity of the Kamtschatka current off the coast of that peninsula, where Tessan found it, in the latitude of Petro])anlski, running at a rate of only seven to ten miles per day in an east-northeast and lutrthcast direction. The observations ui)on the western limit of the cold Behring Sea current indicate, also, the contracted width of this (uirrent. On t'.ic contrary, the eastern and main branch has, in the longitiule of 1G5<^ west, a maximinu breadth of 20° of latitude from 22° to 43°. On the southern limit the tempera- ture is 78°, or four degrees above that of the great ecpnitorial current returning from the ('alifornia coast; and its northern limit of 04°, or 11° to 13° greater than tlie variable currents to the northward. The passages of the China and San Francisco steamers will, in time, afford us means of determining many peculiarities of this current. In tlu! vicinity of the great northern curve of this current, about longitude 150° and latitude 44°, all navigators have found drift-wood, seal, sea-otter, land- birds, and many indications of land. We have collected nniny notices of this character, ami will submit them to you in a separate report. Between this great bend and the Sandwich Islands lies what is called Flienreus whirlpool or eddy. Neither the great stream nor any part of it is laid down as passing as far north as latitude 50°, ami hence is not supposed to pass into the Gulf of Alaska ; but while the great body of the stream sweeps round and foUows the direction of the western coast of America to the Gulf of California, a branch continues direct towards the Alexander Archipelago, and, striking the southern ALASKA (JOAST PILOT. 67 part of tliat coast, is dcfloctcd to the iiortlnvanl and Avostward, and follows tlio trend of tlio coast round tlio (luif of Alaska to tlic wostwanl, and, finally, to (lio south westward. Jt is this Wiirni Alaska hranch whieh causes the hij;h isothermal lino that exists diroetly upon this coast. Tho curront to tho uorthwanl, westward and southwestward, along the coast of the (Julf of Alaska, is well known to iiav iffators, and is jrenerally eon<'ede(' to have a velocity of ten to twenty miles per day. One of the llnssian navi^'iitors informs us that he has found it rnnnin;,' at least thirty-six miles per day. [J[Mn our trij) from Sitka to the ramplona rocks, on a straight course, wo found but little current in our favor, but between the Siiumagin Islands and the Sanualc Lsland and reef it was very strong to the south- ward along the coast. If the position of the reef is correcitly laid down, we expe- rienced ii current of not less than four or five knots ])er hour, between eight o'clock a. m. and halfpast twelve p.m., on the 4th of Septend)er lH(i7. Others Lave expcriencHid the same velocity, which is, doubtless, in great part due to tidal currents i)assing through the straits into the Eehring Sea. Otf the east shore of the Kii 'iak group, on th(>, Portlock bank, we experi- enced a set towards the southwest, parallel to the coast of Kadiak. Tebcidiolf lays down a current in the same direction. It is this returning current which adds its weight to the current from the Behring Sea to press against the northern edge of the great stream, and to underrun it. An ex])loration of the region of the o(!ean where the divide takes place may develop causes for the division of the great stream and the detlection of each part. There is doubtless an eddy between the southern edge of this Alaska branch when sweeping westward and the northern edge of the main stream running east- ward; for Lisiansky, on his voyage from Kadiak to Sitka, in June, ISO."), which he made in six days, to within a few miles of Mount Kdgecumbc, with fair winds, had an "easterly current which had pushed him forward during the last five days, and still tlowed in tho same direction." AVe have been thus extended in our investigations upon this great .Tiijianese stream and its branches that its etl'ects ujjon the climate^ of Alaska may Ik; prop- erly understood, and also its effect upon the ine to render an approach to them oxtremolj' hazardous ; but, with tine weather, no coast alfords better marked outlines and landn.arks. A vessel making the great circle track to the eastward would have the great 68 ALAHKA COAST PILOT,. Jiipiiii stream in licr t'n\or to iilwut Intitmlo -130, longitude L'04o west, or iilxnit one tliousiiml lour liiiiKlrcd and loity iiiile.s; then the cold I'lcliiin;,' Sen eurreiit and tlie end of llie Alaska emreid to latitude 17° and longitude l.")7o west, <»r ono llionsanil nine linndred and eifility miles; finally to San Francisco, about ouo thousand ei},'ht hundred and sixty niilc8, passing through the great bend of the •Fapan stream where so many indications of land have been recorded, and where the weather is almost invariably thick and l)ad in summer, aud cold anil boister- ous in winter. On this track the summer winds would generally be favorable, and, with good weather, it woidd bo altogether the desirable route, but, with thick, foggy weather for nearly the whole of this distance, undeternnned velocity and direction of the currents except in general terms, great variability of climate to passengers and cargo, and extra hazard and risk to lil'e and shij), sonu" great aud positive advantage over all these must exist to warrant the a(h»ption of it. The westward trip would have heavy, adverse winds nearly the whole distance ; large sea and adverse currents for two-thirds the distance. In sucli a case a few days extra bad weather woidd consunu; the vessel's coul, and run the supply short just when in the axis of the main stream. Tlie greatest inducement for adopting the great circle under such circum- stances would be the discovery of ri ip ALASKA t'OAST PILOT. OS) and supplied from Alnska. I?y tukiiifj advantage of the oroan cnrronta and f lio jnoviiiliiif;' nortliwcst winds, niucii (inickcr tinu- could ho made l>,v the cojil slilps than till' distance would lead us to suppose. Of the Huialler and local currents in the llehring Son and aniouR (he Aleu- tians, it is hardly necessary to enter into detail, as mention of them will l»c made ■when describing the features of the coast. THE aUKAT ARCIIU'ELACJO. From tl:.i head of Paget Sound, in latitude 47° 0.'{', to the mouth of the Chilkaht, in HO" LV, through seven hundred and Ihirty-two miles of latitude, lies th(^ vast interior liut^ of navigation une(pialle(l iu the world for bold shores, deep waters, nunu'rous bays and harlxus, bordered every mile with timber of great size and height. The smallest craft can make their trading trips through these waters without the risk of a sea voyage ; snudl steandxmts can traverse them and llnd fuel at every point of the twenty thousand miles of shore-line. The frequency of i)assages connecting these great straits and sounds with th(< ocean, renders them of inestimable vabu! as means of refuge to vessels fearing or suf}"ering from heavy weather at sea. Each year's examination develops th(!ir availability and teaches us the characteristic marks by whi(;h they are known. The great ocean bulwarks of this labyrinth of waters are the mountainous islands of Vancouver, Queen Charlotte, Prince of Wales, BaranofV, and Ciiichagotf. These waters were discovered by the American vessel Washington, that entered by the Strait of Fuca, In 48° 24', and left them by Dixon Sound, r>4o 40'. Meares examined inanj- of tlu^ connecting i>assages, and has not only left '"..s the outline record of his work, but his ai)pr(M',iatiou of their importance by charac- terizing them as the (hrai Arrhipchino. Of this great net-work of jtassages, about one-half the extent iu latitude is part of British Columbia — while the simthern and iKuthern parts belong to the ITnited States. The southern ])art, between 47° («' and 4!P, lias been descril)ed in the Calilbruia Coast Pilot, and the i)assages along tiie coast of British Columbia have bicn described iu general terms. The northern part of this great archipelago has been named the Alexander Ai'chipelago, and will be described in its regular order. liKTAlLED DKSC'UIPTION OF CAPES, BAYS, HARBOUS, ISLANDS, ETC. It would bo almost impossible, Avithin reasonable limits, to give a detailed description of the great number of known harbcu's and anchorages, rocks, islands, and points, that abound in the Alexander A '.iii)elago. Indeed so numerous are they that many of them are yet unexidored or known only in general character- istics to the trader. From Toy Strait and the mouth of the Chilkaht to the head of Paget Sound, this great labyrinth of ■ aters stands unecjualed in the world AT.ASKA COAST VU.OT. for safp iHid liohl iiiliiiid nii\ i^^atioii. The sclierries of Finland ;\'u\ tlie fiords of !>^or\va.v sink into insianilicancc lieloro tl)«> f^roat dimensions of lii^se straits and Nonnds. liy their cxiiloratian and di'S('ri]>tion, Yaneouvor is enfitlcd to indispu- tabh' (!eh'l»rity. A. nnndicr of harbors liave been partially cxainined and prelimi- narily snrseyed by llie old navifiators and by the oflieers of the Eussiau-American ('()mi)any. Many of these have been published in detached foiin in books and maps and charts of travel, but no iittempfc was math- to arranjje them in any sort of order until Tebenkotf undertook to a;j;f;re;;ate the labors of ^'aneouver, Lii P<''rouse, Kotzebue, Heeehey, and others, witii the nuinerotis llnssiau explora- tions, in an atlas of thirty eijjht eliarts published in 1818. His descriptive inomoir does not till the requirements of a directory of the coast, but is nior.', oe('U])ied with the names of the ollieers who made certain e\j)loriitions. Many of these tentative examinations were made in their searches for new fields of tradie, for winter haibors for the wlialers of the company, and also to instruct the mates in such duties, aud to familiarize them with tlie diftercnt jiarts of the coast. J5y very nniiK'rons voyaj^es and systematic reports, eondiined with compara- tively recent Enjilish and .1" rench exphu-ations, the Itussian-American Company has imjjrovetl the ;,'eneral ,neo;>raphical positi' th(> whole ( oast and on the line of the Aleutians, although a vast amount of ^'eneral, and especially of de'ailed labor, is yet to be accomidished. Jn fact th»'re is iu>t even a small nmp ot any i)art of the coast, or of any harlior, which can be (M)unted as worth nun'c than a reconnoissance or prelimimiry survey. The shortness of the working seas(m and its uiu'eitainty, cond)ined ^vith the ])ara- mount obJe<'t of the fur trade, accounts ftn- the lack of geograidiical knowledge of this coast, and in consideration of Tiu.-e drawbacks the comjiany deserves great credit <'"r the auiount of -eographical work its otlicers have ac< omplishcd. Tin; ISLANDS OP THE ARCHIPELAGO ALEXANDER. it is only i,cce>isary to locate and enumerate the ])rini'ii)al ones of the eleven hundred* islands and isl(>ts laid down in this archi|>elago. The great islands thinking the ocean are IM'ince of Waics and its closely adjacent islands and islets. The island has a general direction north '2^" west; stretches from Cai»e C!ia(on in hiiitiide r»lo 4^/^ j,, l^^^■^^^^ p,.,i-,>,.^ j„ .-,,;o 00,. i,.,vj„g ,,„ oxtreme length of one hiMiilred and seven miles and an averagt^ wid'h of forty miles. Its north and east sImmvs arc bonlcred by Clarcm-e Sound; its sontlu'rii by Dixon Sound; 011 the west li(^ the islands and straits forming Bucarelli Sound; between it and tiio " riincc of Wiili'H Isl;m(l iiiul those rloscly Hurroiindinii il, 0110 Iiinidrcd iiiid tliiityllvi' ; fidm rortlimd V:\u:\\ 1.) (.'iipc Ciiiiniann, one IiiiiiciimI and tliiit.v-loiii : iVoiii ('ape Caaiiiaiio to middle of Stil>iiie Strait. s.v<'iity-H.'vcii; lietweeii t'liatliaiii, l'ie]aiid and (liose aromid it, one linnilivd and eij;liti'eM: llaranofVand ad.jucent i.HlandM. one Innidivd and lldily-eiy.lii ; Cliat' .e.n St'.iil imrlli of Adnnral!;, Island, twenty-nine ; (.'liuluHoll ami adjaeeul JKlaudH to Fairweathei I'eniiisulii, one Imuilred and nine. ALASJvA COAST PII.()T. 71 mainland lie tho Cliavina Lslaiuls and llevilla Gigedo, Zarcndm, Etolin, Wranj^cll, &c. Those isliuids are all his'iit nmi-li hrokcn, and covered with ,i;i'eiit forests. The southeastern part of ISaranolV Island lies olV ilie northwest ]iart of I'rineo of Wales Island, with part of Kuiou Island and Chatham and Clarenee Straits intervening. J uianoft' Island 'i.is a };eneral direetion north 17° west; streteiies from Cape Omnuiuey, in latitude 'AP 10', to Peril Strait, in 570^1!'; havin;;- a leMj;th of eij-lity-seven miles and an average width of twenty-two miles. Its nortli shore, is washed by Peril Strait, and the east shore by Chatham Strait. Between its southern part and the mainland, near the Stikine Kiver, lie the islands of Coronation, Kuiou, Knprianott", ilitikotf, &e. To the east of its northern part lies the southern part of Admiralty Island. Otl" its northwestern part lies the large island of Pitt, or Kruzott", forming part of the shores of Sitka Sound. ]?aranoil" is high, broken, and densely covered Mith tind)er. I'pon Kuiou tind Kuprianotf Islands bituminous coal veins have been oitened. These coal deposits and those of Admiralty Island have tliii same general trend as the islands and main straits of the archipelago Alexander. Pitt or Kruzotf Ishmd lies ncu'th and south between (!ape Edgecaimbe, in latitude r)7°, and the north extremity in Salisbury Sound, in latitucU' ')1'^ IS'. Its length is nineteen miles, and its greatest width thnmgli Mount Edgecundie is about eight miles. It is naulerately high, broken, and densely wooded. North of I>aranotr Island, and separated therefrom by Peril Strait, lies tho island of Chichagoff. Its general direcition is the same as IJaranoll'; its length fifty-seven miles, and average width thirty-six nnles. It has not been exjiloicd since Vancouver's time. On the north it is separated from the Fairweather Peninsula by Icy Strait ; its eastern shore is washed by Chatham Strait, and the north part of Admiralty Island lies east of it. Adndralty Island has a general direetion with Chatham Strait north by cuist ; stretches from Point (Gardner, in latitude 57° 01', to Point Retreat, in latitude 58° 18'; has a length of eighty-three miles, and an average wif about twenty-five miles. Its sluaes have bc'Mi described in the (h'scription of ( "hatham Strait, in Krouznofl' I>ay, on this island, has been o])eiu'(l a bituminous coal mine. DIXON SOUND. This sheet of water, opening uiMHi the Pacific Ocean, lies between the north side of the Queen Charlotte group and the south capes and shores of the Alexan der Archipelago, between the latitudes of 51° 10' and ')'k° 35', and longitudes 1.'?lo and l.'i.'iAo. From (he northern ])art lead several great straits and sounds; from the northeastern part, which was named liuccleugli Soun, leads the channel to Portland Canal, the southern dividing line between British Columbia and Alaska. Dixon Sound oi»ens s(Mithward ui)on extensive waters leading among ilie islaiuls. It is comparatively free from dangers, having, however, a tew rocks on 72 ALASKA COAST riI,OT. the norti' side tliut iuc icportt'd to ho. not well laid down. It is named on sonio maps (!n m/;. Sound, and on others Ky-f^ali-ne Strait. It was named by Dixon,* M<'ares in t\. " year niinie appearance of an island when Si ;n :i< ia the east or west, but is {'onniu'ted to the main island by a low, narrow neck of wooded land. The northern extremity of this high peninsula is in 510 12', longitude 1310 21'; but northward of it stretches a low, sandy reef to latitude 54° lit)'. On the west side of the ]>eninsida there is the appearance of a good roadstead, shel- tered from all sonllu'rly and east winds. When abreast the north point of the peninsula, Douglas '' got sight of both sides as well as of a sandy spit, level with the water, which ran to the northward as far as the eye could see from the mast-head." " After rounding the sandy level" and stretching along the eastern side of it, " they came to regular sound- ings of ten, eight, and seven fathoms of water, about three or four miles from the island, the extremes of which bore north by west, and southeast by east half east, by compass. lie named it Rose Point, and placed it in latitude 51° J 8'. PORTLAND CANAL. This extensive arm of Dixon Sound forms the southeastern dividing line l)etween J5ritisii Columbia and Alaska; it commences in latitude .Vfo 41', accord- ing to Vancouver's nmp, and the entrance lies between Point ."Maskelyne,! on the mainland near I'ort Simpson, and Point Wales,^ upon an island lying northwest from Point IMaskelyne. Vancouver places the latter in latitude 54o 4l»J', longi- tude ir)l»c 15' west, (Vol. I, ]). ;i27,) while the i)osition of Point Wales from the nmp is in 54o 41V, and longitude ir)()o 20'. " The entrance is not more than two and a half miles across, and this, at the distance of a few miles, seemed to bo nuiterially contracted." From the entranw the canal runs mirtli 35° east twenty miles, with an average width of three miles, with chaTinels Iwakiits: off to the east ai d west, where it recei\es Observatory Inlet, a laii:*" bran«-h which comes about forty miles from the north-nortliwast The north point, dividing Observatory Inlet from Ihecnniil. was nanu'd by Vaneouxcr. Point Itamsden. .jud placed in latitude * 111 1776 it was rtiscovered by Bodng.i, and uiimod hy him Poiw Iiil<>t.— W. H. D. t Niuiicd Iiy Vaiicmivor in ITiKt. t Niinii'd liy Vaiici.uvcr in ITlKi, iif'tci- bin iu*<^iiict4H-. Mr. WiiIi-h «*' ClniHtH Hrtspitall. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 73 540 30', anil lonjjitiule liflo oTi' west, (page JJJJC.) At first, mIicii oiitoriiij>' nito" the survey of the canal and inlet, Vancouver was " uncertain wliich to eonsiih'r tlie main branch."' (Vol. IF, p. .'{.'{0.) Tlie canal continnes from the above point with thi conrse north LVP west for seven miles ; then north 30° east for thirteen miles; nortli lioo west fin- thir- teen miles; north 7"^ degrees west for ten miles; ninth 21° east for nine mih's, and terminates in latitude TmO 4.V, and longitude lUP .>!'. (Vol. II. p. .MO.) The distance on the above coiu'ses, taken from Vancouver's maj), sum up seventy-two miles, and in his narrative lie says the total "distance from its entrance to its mouth is about seventy miles ; which, in honor of the noble family of Bentinck, I named Portland's Canah''^ (Vol. IT, j). .571.) "The slim'i's of this inlet were nearly straight, and in gencial little more than a mile asunder, composed mostly of high, rocky clill's, covered with ])ine trees to a considerable height; but the more interior country was u coni]tact body of high, barren mountains, covered Avitli snow, (.Inly lilt, 170.$.) As we pur- sued this branch, salmon in great plenty were leaping in all directions; seals and sea-otter were also seen in great inunbers, even wherir the Mater Avas ncaily fresh, and which was the case for upwards of twenty miles from its termination." (Vol. II, p. 340.) On the Admiralty Chart No. lfll*3 A, the name of the iioiiit designated by Vancimver as IMaskelyne, has been transferred to another lying two and one- fourth miles inside the entrance of the canal and surrounded by islands. Vancouver says that off Point Maskelyne lie two rocky islets, and to th(^ south of it a small island close to the shore ; doubtless Birnie Island. On this chart, the Point Maskelyne of Vancimver, is i»laced in latitude .~i4o .3(5'.!), longitude 1.3(1^ 27'. 7, and Point Wales lies nortiiwcst one mih'. Tliis will place the entrance about latitude 'i\° 37.y muth, and longitinle V.W^ liSA' west. TAYAKnONSITI IIAniiOU. The tirst anchorage in the southeast part of Alaska is this contracted har- bor,* situated about ten miles northwest of Port Simi»son. in the narrow straits forming a grouj) of islands about tlve or six miles west-northwest from i'oiiit Wales, Its only im])oilance was the large Aillage of about one hundred jiiid forty-tiie souls of the Tongas tribe, and since 1.H(I7 the establishnient of a rnited States military j)ost nanunl Fort Tongas. Two small straits intersect each other in the group of islamls, and form luiu' passages: one leading northeast from the intersection through luimerous islets and islands to Portland (Miial; one to the northwest ; the i)rincipal one leading westward towards Dixou Sound; and tlie fourth and narrowest one southeast. This hitter passage is three miles huig, and 'r\ the irrowest i)art, near the inter * SomrtinicN written HrklioiiNiti, llcdioiirity ;itt C'en iifiiiii' iul'ipti'ii iw from tlio Uimsiiin manir^iipt h1\i „!;, 10 scfUt City luul Cli-muiit City. Tlio 74 ALASKA COAST PILOT. Kcction, is less than tlio cif-lilli of :i mile wide, witli only two fathoms of wator. Tlicic is andioraKf laiil tlown at its southern entrance in twonty-four fathoms, over gravel bottom: about two miles in it lie three small islets in mid ehannel; the ]»assane is on the west side of these islets, in five fathoms, aTid just beyond is anchorage in twenty fathoms, mud: elose under the northeast point of the i)a8- sage, at the interseetion, there is am-horage in 10 fathoms, mud. The i)rineii)al i)assage leading in from the westward is half n mile in width, with the shores bordered by rocks. The midchau'id couise gives souudings in five or six fathoms in the entrauce, increasing to seven and eight when the village on the south shore bears about south. A I'eef of rocks is laid down in front of tiie village. The passages intersect about a mile ami a quarter from the Avest entrance, with seventeen to twenty fathoms of water. The northeast and north- Mcs, ])assages are rei)reseuted as about half a mile in width. The latest iufornuitiou says no good harbor is found here except for very small vessels; that the "harbor, in and about it, uecds a careful survey, being in rather a bad situation, surrounded by rocks, reefs, and shoals on the outside and inside." On acccmnt of the United States military j)ost here it was visited by three large vessels in 18(i8. In clearing the timber for this post it is reported that yellow cerem part of Dixon Sound, where it is only six miles in width, with the north point of the Dundas Islands directly scmtli. The south |tart of the cape is not less than t!\c miles in extent east »m\ west, bordered by roeks and ish>ts and backed by liigh wooded ridges. 'Nv«r the scuithwestem l)art of the caiie Vanc(Mi\ir took refugi< with his boats •• in si vH>mmr the Coiitlf do U<\ iT* (;in<' kxruv «>«'Nc\v !<|>air.. t Niiiufd by ViMirouvcr. ■f ALASKA COAST PILOT. 75 southeast, wliich bron<>Ut from the ocoau so heavy a sea upon these shores as to invade even our suii^' retreat." He i)l:ue(l the southeasternniost part ol' tlie eape, Avhicli is loriiied by an islet, in latitu(U' ."4^ ■{'>),', but lie had rainy weather and apparently no observations. Three miles westward from tlu^ southwest part ot the c;>rp liTi', where the northwest openin;,' of IJeiim* Channel meeSr' -?;;j-'euce Strait. At the south the width is lour or five miles, hut in a few miles it is much reduced in width by luunerous small islands and islets; at the north its width is a little over a mile. Throujifhout its leii<;tli several anchorages are laid down on Tebenkoii"s chart, witii the track of the trading steamers thnnigh the strait. A very pretty but small basin is fouml on the east side of the northern entrance, about two or three miles inside the northern jwint. Jt has a small wooded islet in its entrance, and anchorage is found in twelve to tifteen fathoi is over muddy bottom. This anchorage is resorted to by the Hudson Bay Company, and we anchored in it in 1807. The Tilhnaeh settlement of Indians is located near the northeastern point, which was named Point Higgins by Vancouver. The nortiiwesteru jioint is V il- lenar,t "a very remarkable projecting point, off which two small wooded islets stretch over a mile to the north-northwest; from Point Higgins thescMsit-ts bea" south HP west half a league distant." The Gravina group of islands forms the western shores of the Narrows. It consists of three large and numerous small ones, Avho.'!» eastern shores have never been outlined. Two large channels pass through then, east and west, from Tou- gas Narrows to Clarence Sound. CAPE NOPTHTMBERLAND.t This is the southeastern point of the entrance to Clarence Sound and lies between it and the Tongas Narrows. It is the extremity of the group of islaiMl,« called theClravina grt>up; is low, close to tlie water, i»ut rises to liigii ridge-- n\' a thousand or fifteen hundred feet, wooded from the water's edg(> ti> tlie ■^iinniiis. When coming out of the Tongas Narrows a low wooded islet is seen lying utl tli>' cape. It lies thirteen miles north W<»o w,.st from (!ape Fox, iiinl twenty fuiir miles north Gl° east from CajK; Chacou. * Niiriii'd liy Viiiicimvcr ullcr Mii,ii>i' ncliiii Mt K:iinr'ii'1mtk:i. t Naiiiril liy ViUKoiivi'i' in ITlt:!. iit'tfr lii- im .llciii \ S.- <■■■ Hiifjjiiis

  • free from inqiediments." He ])laces the s«utliernmost rock in latitude 04° 44', seven and a half miles soutli of file caiie. Tebcnkoff places the rock in latitude 54° 4r.J', longitude l.'U° 1.'3', and live miles soutii of the cape, with the tra> k of the IJnssian vessels on either side, The English Admiralty Chart No. 24^51, place.> them in aecoivhuice with Van- couver's description. AVe have named this southernmost nx'k the "Banvn Kock;" it lies about twelve miles west of Cape Fox. In June ITSft, Mearcs named the "hixb mountain" of Cape Xortluunberlaiul ]Mount St. l/.izaro, and phun-d ii in latitwK' -M^ 5J'. With his glass lu; i)erceived the app'ar ine ' of a \ illage upon thi> ve. Vaueouver says thit from his latitude station he saw at the northeast l>art of the, eHiH>, on a high detached rock, the reniaiiis of a village. Seven and a half mile.s south "^O ' west^ Vdmiralty ('hart Xo, L'l.U lays down the IXnil's Hidge, but the positiv^u doubH\»h and twelve miles .south 7L'° west, !i rock and eluster about it marked (Uwlm^d, Uoth are broad oft" the south entrance to Clarence Strait. 'IVbcnkofV h;vs vvul,v oh*> patch of rock called the Devil's Bank, lying fifteen miK's south ^7" w«vvt from Uarren Itock, and twelve miles south 7L'° east t'loui Cape Clmeou. It is marked us a rock above water, with sunken rocks aivuud it. ALASIwV COAST I'lLOT. 77 CLARENCE SOUND. From the nortli side of Dixon Sound, between Onpes Xortliuniherland and Chacon, in lonH;itude l''5U°, Clarence Sound opens with a widiii ol' lil'iccn to twenty niih's; runs in a }:feneial northwest hy nintli direction for one JMnidrcd and twenty miles; thence westward twenty miles; and linally southsoiitheast for twenty-live miles, with the lar;,'e islands calh'd Coronation and Warren at its Avesteru entrance, where it mingles its waters with those at the entrance to Chatham Strait. The average width of the wholes sound is about seven miles, but at some i)laces its available channel is much rt'duced by islets and rocks. In a measure it surrounds the island called Prince of Wales, the southern jtoiiit of Avldch is the initial point of the boundary line between ^Vlaska and llritisli (Jolumbia. Numerous straits are reported to exist thron;;li parts of this larjje island, dividinj? it into an extensive group, and is hence sometimes called Prince of Wales zVrchi- I)elago. From the eastern side of Clarence Straits great arms penetrate in a general direction to the northeastward until they reach the bus** of the coast mountains; these arms or inlets are known us the liehni Canal, a large one not named, Ernest Souml, Stikine Sound, Wrangell Straits, «&c. Their waters are navigable, the shores generally very bold and covered with timber, and the whole forming an intriciicy of ial.tnd navigation ditlicult to describe in detail, and best studied on the chart. The southwest nn and i)arts of the eastern shores of Prince of Wales Archipelago have remained unexi)h»red since the examinations of the Spaniards, who left little more than numerous nanu's to prominent capes, points, uiK^xplored bays ami straits. Clarence Sound forms part of that vast and unparalleled system of deep inland navigation extending from latitude -47° O.'i' to o\}° lo', POUT rfARDNi^.n. Tlie first bay and anchorage in the entrance to Clarenite Sound is Port (lai'dner, on the western side, ami eight miles nortli-noitheast of the south(':i«t<*rn extremity (Cape Chacon) of rrinec of Wales Island. The entrance is in latitude 54° 40'^ longitude l.'Uo 45', and on Tebenkoflf's atlas is laid down about a mile wide and two miles deep, expanding into an am])le basin inside the niduth, which has an islet and rock in it. The course to enter tins bay is marked on another Enssian chart as on the north side of the islet. Xo depth of water or d(!tails are given. In .Tune, 17?^;t, Meares anchored in a small anchorage with a depth of twenty- three fathoms over sand and shells, the latitude being i)i° .j1'. lie called it Port Meares. Another bay and aiichiH'age is imlicated as a stoi)ping jdaee for tiailing vessels iibont two miles further northward, ahmg the sanu' shore, and is designated on a Russian chart as "The Archipelago,"' as a great nund>er of islets are laid down in it. The triu'k indicates the passage to lie north of the islets. 7H ALASKA COAST PILOT. ClIICIIAGOFK HAV. Ill latitude ."('2 or tin re is miirkcd aiiotlicr small l)iiy and anclioraso on tlio SKiitli side (if the sontlii ast pniiit of the; ciitraiicc to Moira sound. Xo name is given to this an<'liora)j;e, but the large bay filled with islands just to the southward is eallcd Cliichagoll' by the Itussiaiis. TONGAS DAY. This large bay is on the eastern side of the sonnd, on the middle one of the three large islands forming the (Iravina group lying between Tongas Xari'ows and Clarence Sound. There arc two entrances to this harbor, separated by a largo wooded island, or rather by a group of live or six smaller islands. Both are in latitude .">t^ .")!)', and the islands separating them are in longitude i;51o li.'i', and Imve an extent of two miles i-nch way. Toint Davison* is the southwest jioint of the (Jraviini Island stretching farthest into Clarence Sound and forms part of the shore to the western entrance. There is an t.'xtensive reef oft' this point, streteli- ing southwestward about ii mile and a half. The eastern point, being the south jioint of the island in the entrance, is named J'oint Perey,t and the pa^ssago between these points is two miles wide and runs about northeast for four miles, contracts to a mile in width, when it runs north one mile, northwest two miles, Avhere it suddenly eontraeta to a very narrow passage to the west for half a mile, and expands to a large basin two miles long, north and south, and one and a half wide, east and west, with ten to fifteen fathoms of water in it. "Where the (;han- nel is first contracted to one mile in width the soundings range from thirty to twenty fathoms, with anchorages of fifteen to twenty fathoms in several places. The bottom throughout is represented as muddy. There are several snmll islets in the channel, but they have deep water close to them. A'ancouver stiifcs the latitu(h' of J'oint Davison to be 55° OOV, The position of the inner anchorage, according to Etolin, is in latitude 55° 03' noith and longi- tude l.no L'.V west. Itoiigh ])lans arc given of this bay by Tebenkoflf and in other Russian charts from that of IMolin made in IH'Ml. The rise and fall of tide is stated at fourteen feet. MOIRA SOX'NI). The entrance to this sonnd, on the west side of Clarence Sound, lias in about latitude ."P ftl.", is about two miles in width, . id has several islets otf each point. It penetrates Wales Island about six miles to the southwest, then turns shari>ly to the northwest for six or eight miles, heading near the heads of Cholmondely Sound, which «'omes from north-northeast, and Tliakak Bay, which comes from the southwest from Cordova Bay. " The land in the neighborhood of Moira Sound is high and rather steep •Niiini'if liy Viini'onvcr in 17!):( .'it'tcr Afi'Xiiiiilcr Davismi, tlic kwikt iit' llic storcsliiii of fiis ox- prditiou. tNiinii'il liv ViiiHdiivi r in I'lKl. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 70 towards Clarence Sound; l»ut lunili of Wedge Island, (in latitude Tm" 07',) llio 8tnii},dit and conipaet shores are moderately elevated, ami the interior eountr.N is eom|»osed of lol'ty Ihonjjh uneven niouutaius, iirodueiiiji iin ahnost ini|ieiu'tral)le Ibrest of pine trees from tin; water side iu,'ariy to tiieir snniniits, i>nt hy no means 80 high as wo had been accustomed to see in the more iidaud country." (\an- couver ii, p. 381.) Wrdf/c Tsl(t»d "from many jioints of view icsembled a Medge; from its south point stretches a ledge of dangerous rocks on which the sea broke witli great violence." cii()l:\[()ni)Kt.ky sound.* On the western shore of Clarence Sound, about latitude "P IT', Cape Tehaseni runs two miles directly west to the eastern side of tiie entrance to ChohuoniU-ley Sound, one or two miles wide, and in it lie several islets, with a larger one, named Skin Island being north 75° west two and a half miles from the east point of Cape Tehaseni. t A liussian chart has a small islet close on the mnth side of tl e east- ern part of the cape. Tiie anchorage of the trading vessels is laid down broad off the north side of the cape. This sound runs south-southwest for ten or twelve miles and o])ens into several xmexplored arms. The head of the main body of water lies near the heads of Moira Sound and of Tliakak 15ay, whieli o|)eus into the northeast ])art of the unex'idored bay of Cordova. On tin- inside of tin- entrance to the sound and on the eastern side lies the native settlement of Chasintzcll'. KAZATIN BAY. Forty-two miles north of Cape Chacon, on the west side of (^lareiic". Sound, an anchorage is laid down at the entrance of Kazarn Bay, the oi)ening to which lies in latitude 55° 27', longitude ISj"^ 01', one and a half mile inside the i)oint eastward of it. A large island named (Irindall lies two miles northeast of this point, while a broad unexplored arm of the sound runs westward of Kazarn. The bay is four miles long, about one; mile wide, runs about south-southwest, and has a setilement at its head. A Eussian has established a trading post and salmon fishery in this bay, and in July 18GS was curing and packing two hundred barrels a week, and coidd have trebled it but for want of facilities; the salmon run from July I to end of xVugnst. The harbor is reported good and easy of access ; s[)ruce and yel- low (!edar attain gieat size and cover the shores which Tebenkoii" represents as moderately low. A second l)ay lies just west of Kazarn, and is represented as unexplored. The great arm running to the westward is said to bend to the norlliwest, and finally to bend to the north, oiH'uing again upon Clarence Sound in latitude 55° 40', where the l{u.ssian chart has an anchorage, and another live miles to the southeast. " Naiiinl 1)y Vanooiivor 1793. tC'iillca INiiiit Cliarm on Adiiiiialty Map No. 'J»;i1. so ALASKA COAST PILOT. (Aim; caamano. About latitiitlc .">o !,'!»' Clinfiicc Soimd irccivcs tlic Toiifjas >iinr()\v.s from t\w Hontlicast, and tlii' west part (»!' licliiu Canal from tlic iioith-nortlicast. Tlic point Ivin;; lictwccn llic west sliort- ol' liclini Canal and tlic cast shore of ('larcncc Sound was iianu'd Cape. Caaniano by Vanconvfi', but its position was not dcterinincd l),v observation. It is wooded to the water, and chjse around it are roclcs. Kroni it Point lli;;>;ins lies east by south half south, about four ndles (listant, and Orinchill Ishind south 58° west, about four miles. From Cape Chacou it is ab(»ut forty-six miles distant. I'OKT STEWAUT.* Twelve miles north of Cape Caamano, on the western shore of the north ai-m of P.ehm <'anal, v,hi<'h opens into the east side of Clarence Sound, in latitude .mO ;U)', at the head of Tonkas Narrows, lies Port Stewart, off which the islet three-eij;hths of a mile ncuthwest of the south point lies in latitude r>rp .'!S' l.V, louf^itudc l.'Uo i')'. From the south point the north i)oiut bears north by west one and a half miles. The fAcneral direction of the bay is northwest, and the deptli two miles; l)ut the upi)er part of the bay, receiving;- a small stream, is lu'arly tilled by a Hat at its western part, leavinji' u snndl bay in the north part landlocked, with fuun six to nltu> fathoms of water and onequarter of a mile in extent; this has a narrow channel with seven fathoms close to the north shore, and rocks and shoal ground to the south of the channel. The islets on the south shore are nearly connected by shoals oidy visible at low water; but good entrance may be had in fifteen to twenty fatlnnns to the northward, and between them and a row of three smaller islets on(i-quarter of a mile oiV the northern shore. One-(piarter of a mile south of tlie north point is a rocky jiatch with deep water all around. On the sauu' side of the Behm Canal, six miles north of Port Stewart, lies the oiiening to an extensive bay running four miles west-northwest, with islets and rocks in the entrance, and an extensive settlement noted at the head on Tebeu- kotf's chart. This bay lias no name on the charts. Directly east of Port Stewart lies the Traitor Cove of Vancouver, near which his boats were attacketl by the Indians. The southeastern point of the entrance of Ernest Sound into Clarence Sound is called Point .Mesurier, and is situated in latitude .wO 4(i', according to Vancou- ver, with a rock lying over a mile west-ncrthwest from its extremity. This point is live miles long by one or two wide, and stretches well into Clarence Sound; fiom its extremity the north shore runs east four miles to the entrance of a small bay not yet named, and running to the s(aitheast two miles. It is om? of the anchorages of the Kussian steamers. • Nnmod liy Vancouvor in 179."?. ALASKA COAHT Pir.OT. 81 Till' low wdodnl jxiiiit cMllctl 'I'oiikdi, mi tlic wcstciii side of CliirciK't' Sdiiiiil. iiiiil si'vcn miles wt'sl ii.st iVoiii I'oiiit iMt'siiricr, liii.s iiii imkIidi:!^!' mi tin- iKirtli siilc, iiltmit one mile inside the point. The (h'plh of wiiler 1^ not marlveil, Iiiit TelieiikolV pliK'es aiielioiii^'e oil' the iiorlh shore ol' the point. This point lies iibrejist of the mass of islamls Imininy: the southern point of York Ishiiid. (Duke of York, \'ancoii\ei',) and Claii'iice Sound is Iktc eontiacted to a width of four miles. I''rom Tonkoi Point tiie sliore runs nofthwest by west for si\ mih's to the narrow opening <)!' u hii'^ie basin named IJatstch IJay, whicli Tebeiikolf marks as an anchorage. It has a small islet in the entrance. Thence northward for fifteen miles the wcstein shme is com]iact, anil the eastern nnich broken to I'oint Stanhope,* where .lohnstmie observed the latitude, /itio 02', Tlu' south face of this ]ioint extends two miles east to the half mile wiiUi entrance of a low^ bay stretchin;; seven or ei;;lit miles northward. Oil the west side of I'oint Stanhoiie are some small rocky islets and rocks. Five or six miles northward of I'oint Staidiope N'ancmncr aiu'lionnl in seven fathoms water on the north sidi^ of a small island, close under the shore. This situation is tolerably w(*ll sheltered from the southerly and southwest wimis, but the souiidin}i;s are irrejj;ular and tlie bottom in some phi(;es rocky. The islands between Ernest and Clarence Straits were called Duke of Ymk Islands by Yancmiver, but on the Kussian and recent admiralty charts lliey are called Etolin Ishtiuis. In latitude ."iOo l.V, the lar};e arm called Sfikine IStrait makes into Clarence Sound from the northeast. This strait leads to the mouth of the Stikine Itivei- by two arms of which the lar;;('r or more direct is twenty-two miles lonj; i)y three or four wide. Slcmncr lia;/ lies at the sontheast point of tlu^ entrance; no sound- ings are ^iveii, and a manuscri))t IJussian chart shows the ancliora^;!' one mile in- side the entrance in a cove on the west shore, .lust inside the entranceto thc^ strait lie two islands on the south shore, and anchorage is marked on the south side of the eastern and larger island, between itan«l the shore. Five miles within the en- trance, on the eastorn shore, is the ojioniiig of (Jiiict Jiaif, stretching one mile, to the south, l)ut no soundings are gi\en. KTOIJN IIAUHOIJ. There is no station immediately at the mouth of Stikine Iviver, but on the northwest part of \Yrangell Island, (Katchkhanna on Tebenkotf,) about two and a hall' miles smith of the niu'thern ])oint of the island, is tlie small liaiboi' of I^tolin, in latitude 5(>o 31' ;]()", and longitude ];5lio li.'i' ;i(»", where the Uiissiaiis formerly liail a stockaded factory, called Saint Dionisia. The harbor is very contracted, only live hundred yards wide, opens to the northwest and runs to the southeast for about six hundred yards, but has good soundings, regularly decreasing from ten fathoms at the entrance, to three and a half well inside the bay, abreast of the U • Niinieil by Viini'OTiver in 17i);t. \ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4 '^0 /- %o 1.0 1^128 |2.5 |50 "^ ■^ 1^ 1^ 12.2 11111:^^^= I.I u. Illll^^ tut i^ 1.25 1 1.4 1.6 L 6" V] <^ /A 7 >^ w^^ '/ Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTEH.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 6^ 82 ALASKA COAST PILOT. Hiiiall isliiml, with muddy botioiii from tlu^ oiitiiiiico iiparly to the hoad. A plan of this is Hivcii in the Hussian chart Xo. 1(» of tlie I'acilic Ocean series. The United States military post Fort \Vran{;ell is established liere. The United States steamer Saginaw jtlaces this i»ost in latitude 50° L'7' 20" and '.\° 04' ;{0" east of Sitlca, or l.'J-'o V.V l.V w«'st. Bat this ditl'ers from the nearly concordant jxtsitions of Tebenkoft" and the "Devastation" in 1802. POINT IIIGIIFIELD. This is the northern extremity of Etolin Lsland, off which lies a small par- tially wooded islet two tliirds of a mile distant : between this islet and tlie point we anchored in sixteen fathoms, muddy bottom, but found disaj^reeidde counter and sub-currents runniufj. A sketch of this anchorage is given on the Admiralty Chart No. 24;U, wherci the position of the islet named Limonoft' is stated as latitude r.OO IV.V, louf-itude i;52c 22', From tliis islet the nnuith of the Stikine Hiver, fronted by very extensive sand Hats, lies nearly north about eight miles distant. KTIKINK KIVKR. • About three miles n(»rthnortheist (approximately) lies a small islet, one mile off Green I'oint, and about half a mile east of the opening of the river at the south edge of the flats. Under this islet soundings are laid down in ten fathoms. The general course of the river through the flats is northward fur five or six miles to the east point of an island two miles long north and south; from this island it bemls due east two miles to the north shore of I'oint Kothsay. These extensive Hats extend westward from the mainland for six miles to the numerous islands four miles northwest of Point Iliglilleld and to the large island of Mityojf] and thus blocks the broad passage from the north shores of Stikine Sound to the s»»utiieast i)art of Frederick Sound,* except for boats at high water, when they l)ass close along the southeastern shore. A braiK^h of the Stikine opens into the southeast part of Frederick Sound, about latitude 50° 48', but it has not been explored. tiKNEUAL BESC'Rll'TKlN OF THE STIKK^E RIVKIt. The Stikine is the largest river of the southern p.u't of Alaska. As aftbvding the best means of reaching the interior, for the gold along its course, and its being the prosjiective route of the telegraph to Sitka, it is Judged advisable to collate oil the information icadily accessible. In IS.ii an exiieditioii was fitted out at iMirt \ ancouver, on the Columbia, by the Hudson's IJay Company, to establish a trading ixtst on this river, but tiie Rus- sians established a bhtck-honse at the nuaitli, and scut a corvette to prevent this aggie, sive ixdicy being carried out. The headwaters of the river had be(ui explored by miners from California and • Pritiri' l'>t'(1('riik'H Soiinit of Vuiuoiivfr, I70H. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 83 British Columbia who followed tho gold-bparing zone from Frazer River to the northward. In 1803, a Russian expedition under Commander Bassarguine, of the eorvette Rynda, explored the river about 8ixty-t.iree miles from its mouth, and four miles above the Litth^ Caiion. In l.S(i5-'(»7 the Russian American telegrapli eomi)any explored the interior, and this river for about one hundred and twenty miles to the Jiald ilills, where it is said to make its great bend to the southward. This river, sometimes erroneously confounded with the Frances River of the interior, is usimlly represented as running nearly east and west, and correctly as heading far to the southward of its mouth. It rises by two branches, one to the northeast an I one to the southeast, and from their juncticm near the latitude of 57° 30' it ilows almost south 30', then west and southwest, with a general antagonism to the Coast ranges near the arcliii»eIago Alexander. The interior of the country apjiears to be broken into a siu-cession of sharjdy- deflned mountain ranges separated by narrow and deep valleys, similar to those between the islands of the coast. In fact, the topography of tho jvlexander Ar(!h- Ipelago is a tji)e of that in the interior. A subnu'rgence of the mountain region of the m.ainland v/ould give a similar succession of islands separated by deep and narrow fiords. It api)ears from the testimony of miners who have ])enetratcd far into the interior in search of gold, that there is a broad i)lain stretching northwest and southeast, which separates the mouiitainous zartl,v iVoiii tlimiiicorrcclcd magnetic olimrvafioiiM of Professor lUnKc, and li.v no iiicHiis tiillics in any inirliculiir with the a^ll■'"Hlnlil■al oliscivationH of Hir \V. I'. T. Kx. cxiiloi'ci'H. Tlic )icii(lwatci-K arc <'onfi>iint perhaiis the portion above the (Jreat Cafion, is, perhaps, its most renmrkable feature. Plenty of bars and riflles over which the current sweeps down with great uniformity, ami in most i)laces is so swift and strong that it is useless to attempt to nudic headway against it with oars, and when the bed or banks are not suitable tor towing or tracking, the only way to force a boat up is by means of ]»oles, taking advantage always of the least forcible parts of the stream. The line for towing a boat should be from two hundred to three humlred feet long. The velocity of the current was measured at several places, and in the ])ortions of the river below the Little Cafion i)robably averages five miles per hour, and in the lower portion, or for about thirty miles above the mouth, about four miles per hour. The depth of the »vater is of course variable, but even at low water is seldom less than three feet in the main channel. The highest Avater, or season of the greatest lloodw, is in the month of July, when the snow is melting on the mountains most niitidly under the suniiiier sun. At these times the height of the river. Judging by the appearance of the banks, does not appear to be very greatly increased, ju'obably .:iit more than six feet; but the water spreads out over the low banks and islands, and the stream is thus greatly changed in its i'i>i)earaiice and in the form and direction of its banks. Tiie water is always charged with a very tine light-colored iKtwder or sediment, so that it is ojiaipie and the bottom of the stream is not visible. This 8usi»ended material is i)robably derived from the glaciers, or may perhaps be washed down from soft stratified formal Ions along the sources of the stream. Gold can be found in small quantities by ]mnniiig the drift of the bed and ALASKA COAST PILOT. 85 bars of the rivor. Tlio "color" is iilniost iiiviuiably fouiul, Imt in particlos so iniiiiite as to bo (liHicult to soi' aiuliiioic diniciilt to savo, Tliis, of course, is to bo exjM'ctod in trialt, of the sand and {jiavcl from the surface. It is what is termed "flour }iold," and to collect it would recpiirc blankets, (|uicksilvcr, and greater care antl attenti(m than is generally given in the rajiid methods of California. There was not time to make any excavations to the bed-rock, where, doubtless, the coarse gold lies. Very good results can, however, be obtained in the layers of gravel above it, and the miners infonned me that they seldom attempted to reach the bed-rock, it was so far below the surface. Some of the best rcvsults of their mining were obtained in a layer of gravel about eighteen inclu's below the sur- face. This eighteen inches of gravel is skimmed oil' and thrown aside, and the next five or six inches of gravel below is washed in cradles or rockers. The prin cipal n)ining at Fiddler's and at Carpenter's bars, in bSfiU, was of this description. One claim of two hundred feet sipiare, worked by two men, yielded ^'J,0()(); and the bars are reckoned to yield from §.'? to $10 a day to the hand. Xearly all the bars will yield from $lto.$l .10 per day. In l.S(i7 the miners reported on the yield to be from $2 to $7 per day. The extent of paying grounecember 17, and in the spring the ice broke up about the 1st of Jlay, and the previous year on the 9th of May. As soon as the warm days of spring cause tho snows to melt tho river begins to rise, and so breaks up the ice. There is then a short season of rising and falling, after which come the continiu)us floods of the hot months. Very little rain falls during the summer in the upper part of the valley. Little or nothing was known in 1803 of the climate of the mountain region .it the head of the Stikine. At the mining cami)s at and near Shek's Bar the winter is said to be very severe. Snow com- mences to fall in October, but is most abundant in December, and covers the ground to a depth of from four to fourteen feet or more all winter. In 1802 four feet of snow on a level fell in one day. In December the mercury sank below zero, and in February was solid in the bulb for nine days coutinuonsly. There was no thawing or rain during the winter. It is iterhai)s this alternation of the seasons that causes the timber of the inte- rior to be superior (according to report) to that of the coast. FlSrt AND GASm. Salmon, halibut, and other good fish aboniul at the mouth of the Stikine. AVhen the salmon ascend the river in June and .Inly the Indians follow and catch them in great numbers. They split them along the back, remove the backbone, cut them in long strips, and dry and smoke them. When well cui-ed they are very flue, and are very conveiuent in camp. Ducks and geese may be shot ou the river, and grouse in the forests of the shores. Bears are plenty in the moun- tains, and the numntain sheei» or goat in the rocky places. Beaver and otters are taken in great nund)ers by the Indians of the valley and its tributaries. The well-manned boat of the Russian expedition Avas two hours and a half in jiassing the canon. The sides are formed of precii»itoiis cliffs of granite roughly broken out, and the Mater ruslies between them with great force, boiling and whirling as at llell Gate near IS'ew York, when the tide is tlowing rapidly. On ALASKA COAST PILOT. 87 the north side, for a part of the way, there is an eddy setting up stream, of which advantage can be taken in ])assing tlirough. Tlie approach to this canon from the southward is marked by a fine conienl mountain upon the east side of the river, visible for a great distance, and marking the i)08ition of the lower end of the gorge through which the river has broken its way. It has been named the "Cone ^L)untain." Some of the ridges which extend from it project upon the river ami are composed of granite. About forty miles below this cafion the river turns westward, and breaks through the Coast Mountains for nearly twenty miles to the mouth. Tiie total length of the river is estinuited at about three hundred miles, and up to the Little (Janon the sketch of the Bussian exi)edition shows it to average less than a cpuir- ter of a mile in width. The river is also renmrkable for the glaciers which are encountered on its right bank, no less than four being found between the mouth and Little Canon. The first is a small one about ten miles up the river, and has retreated from the shore a mile or two westward between the mountains. Jt has a higli inclina- tion, and a very rugged and broken surface. At the mouth of the Icewater lUver, flowing from it, is a i)oint of land formed of coarse river-drift, containing gold. Up to this i)oint, the mountains on the south shore, or left bank, come nearly to the water's edge. They are apparently from 1,500 to 3,000 feet high, and are heavily timbered with flr and spruce. The second glacier is about twenty-five miles from the mouth of the river. It faces the east, presents a splendid appearance in the sunlight, and extends f'jr about two miles along the stream. The background is formed by beautiful snow- covered peaks, from between which the glacier issues, but its source cannot bo seen. The slope of the glacier is very gentle, and the vast body of Tee appears to bo unbroken until it reaches the valley of the iiver, where it breaks down in nmssivo ledges and pinnacles of the purest crystal. The foreground ahmg the stream consists of an ancient Inoraine, now covered with trees, anu)ng whicli willows and pojdars are conspicuous in their delicate green foliage of spring. Some very largo blocks of granite standing in the river bear witness to the vast transjiorting power of ice and to a much greater extension of this glacier in former ])eriods. From this part of the river a line of high, rugged, and serrated i)eaks is visi- ble on the right or eastern side of the valley, and at a considerable distantje from the stream. The aceunmlatious at the foot of the glacier have evidently pushed the river outward, and they have acted as a dam to the waters, which, above the moraine, are quite deep and flow smoothly. On the opposite side of the river a small clear stream of water enters. It comes from hot springs a short distance up. Two or three inlles below this glaciei', a liroad valley opens upon the left bank of the river, and apparently extends far to tlie southeast. The thiid glacier is about seven miles above the preceding. In this distance 8,S ALASKA COAST IMLOT. tlio rivor is very crookeil, the valley is narrower, larso poplar trees arc abundant alon^' the banks, and many tliat liave been uprooted by the undennininjr aetion of the stream are stranded upon tiie sand bars and alon;;' the shores. This is a very beautiful {jhi«'i«'r, tlctwiuff fiom a valley on the west. It is rennukable for its syiiunetry, regular slope, thiekness of the ico, and for the con- trast with the dense forest (Ui each side of it, and with the belt of deeiduous trees upon the bottom land in front. In the extrenu' baekf;;round there is a maynilieent angular peak shrouded with snow. The drift, pebbles, and rocks of the river-bed at this point, aiul a short dis- tance above, consist chiefly of linu'stone, porphyry, aiul Jasper, with some masses of (|uai'tz. Tlu^ fourth Hlaeier is about forty-six miles from the mouth. The time oecui)ied by the Jvussian itarty in desceiuliu}*- the river about sixty- three miles was seventeen and a half hours, while ascending the si;au> distance had required eight ilays of hard exertion. KTIKIKE SOUND. The broad sheet of water leading westward from the Stikiue River to the northeast Dend of Clarence Sound is juuned Stikhie Sound by Tebenkoff. It is four ndles wide and ab(»nt twenty miles in length, with a larj>e nund)er of islands near its eastern end, and lying directly otf the Hats of the Stikine Ifiver. Several anchorages are found in this sound. Ten fathoms is laid down on the east side of the southeast ixiint of the large island, lying about three miles northwest by west from Toint Ilightield. On the northwest side of Yank's Island, two or three miles in extent, and lying live miles west of Point Ilightield, anchor- age is noted, but no depth marked. South of Vauk's Islaiul lie two iskU oft" the month of Jiatli Harbor, lying eight miles west by south half south from Point Ilightield. At the northwest point of Zarembo Island is a number of islets, ami on tiie east side of them there is anchorage in eighteen fathoms. AVRANGKLL STIfAIT. It would serve no practical purpose to endeavor to describe the intricacy of islands and sounds south of Frederick Sound and east of Chatham Strait. The nnii)s that are already published mv, good guides for all general purposes. There is only one available chaniud between Clarence and Frederick Sounds east of Cor- onation Islam], ami that is Wrangell Strait, opening from the northwestern part of Stikine Sound, in latitude r>0o 3.V and longitude Vi'2° 48'. It bears north-north- east, distant four miles from the east end of the large island lying in the middle of the west eiitraiu'c of Stikine Sound. It is tortuous, very narrow, has low wooded shores, broad beacnes, and a mid channel depth of not less than four or Ave fath- oms. A .sketch of this, on a large scale, is given on sheet Xo. lOG of the Russian charts of the i'acilic Ocean series. This sketch is not very accurate, but it can be used, esi»ccially at low water, when a i'ow rocks not laid down upon it show them- ALASKA COAST PILOT. 89 selves. Tlie United States st<>amer Saginaw and other government steamers have used it. Three miles west of Wrangell Strait is the entrance to Duncan Channel, running twenty-three miles north and north-northwest. From the north end of Wrangell Strait is visible the first great glacier that wo have seen upon the shores of these waters, althuugh two are reported even south of Port Simpson, on tho arms jjenetrating the continent in that vicinity. Tiiis glacier is on the north side of the eastern part of Frederick Sound ; and from two islands, about three miles northwest of Wrangell Strait, it bore nortli by west dis- tant ten or fifteen miles, as well as wo could judge through the mist ane Nunez and Cape ICygane, eighteen miles westward, is an extensive unexplored bay called Cordova, extending northward into the Prince of Wales Islaiul alxmt fifteen miles and filled with wooded islands, bare islets, and rocks. From the northwestern jiart of this bay an unexplored strait named lleoak is said to lead to the southeasternmost arm of the extensive waters called Buca- relli Bay or Sound, CAPE kyoAne. This is the extreme southwestern i)oint of the Territory of Alaska. Tebenkoff gives a very indistinct view of it at a distance of twenty miles, when bearing north 45° east. On the 11th of August, 18G7, we saw the cape within the distance of a mile, but covered with rain clouds very low down. A view of it as it then appeared is given. No description of this important headland has been discovered among the old or recent navigators. The immediate shores were comparatively low and rocky, but covered with heavy sin-uce to the edge of the bluffs ; the out- line of the shores to the northwest appeared much broken, and of similar forma- tion to the point. The water around the cape appeared bold, but showed strong current markings inside our position, which was about one mile distant. TcbeidvotV places it in latitude 54° 42', longitude 132° 39', but our observa- tions made near it gives the longitude 132° 43' .8. La Perouse placed it in lati- tude 54° 40', but he did not approach it within twelve miles. He says that from Forrester Island eastward towards Cape Kygi'me, and across the North Cape of the Queen Charlotte group, he found no bottom with one hundred and twenty fathoms, even a league from shore ; but his course is laid down southward and westward of Cape Kygane. Between Cape Kygiine and North Cape, forming the northwest point of the Queen Charlotte group, lies the entrance of Dixon Sound. From Cape Kygane the North Cape bears south 39° west, distant twenty-eight miles. ■ ( I mmP'. I f I I' ALASKA COAST PILOT. J)l In this «iitraiice, La PciOhhc miyH thiit during the, night ho crossod curronts in( re nipid than ho had over niut in the open Hen, and no hottoin witii ont^ hun- dred and twenty fathoms of line. DoiiglaNH (irossed the houiuI from Cape lvy. ♦ number of islets chtse along shore, three harbors open to the eastward upon Cordova Uay, and two and a half miles wt'st of the southern point of the firs! 'urge i.'-land {unnamed) in the bay. The soundings in the approaehes to the hai -oin are about forty fatiioms. The southern haibor is about three-eighths of a mile wide, runs weit-nin-thwest for one and a half mile, and has a large islet inside and !i. wards the southern shore. Up to this islet the soundings are not less than tliirty fathoms, and thence gradiudly deereaso towards the head. The second entrance, less than half a mile north of the southern one, is tlie opening into two arms of one bay, divided by a long narrow island lying west- uorthwest. The southern arm is that used as an anchorage, is one mile deep and less than a quarter of a milo wide, with soumlings of six fathoms at the entrance, increasing to sixteen fathoms, and then diminishing to eight at the head, where there is quite a snug boat cove on the south side, and a luurow i)assage to the northern arm on the north side. The northern arm or harbor has almost the same dimensions as the other, with deeper water at the entrance, (twenty-eight fathoms,) and a basin with six to eight fathoms at the head. The anchorage in the middle harbor or soiitlicrn arm of the two northern har- bors is placed in latitude 54° 4G', and longitude 132° 4't' .'50", according to the sketch of Etolin, given on the Ilnssian Chart No. 10 of the Pacific series published in 1848. It is also in Tebenkoff, wh») gives 54° 42' and 130° 30' as the position, in the sketch, but on the general chart it is placed in 54° 47'. The former position ■was determined by Kruzott'in 1824. The rise and fall of the tide is stated to be sixteen feet. About five miles north of the islet off the southeast point of Kygiine harbor and along the siime shore lies Ameficau Bay, with a huge islet off its southeast point, and a sandier islet under its northeast poiit, with anchorage in eighteen fathoms to the south- westward of this islet. Two or three smaller bays and islets are passed along the intermediate shore, opposite American Bay ; the strait is about three-f each other. Tin? bay lies about northeast, and is about a mile and a half wide, with two islets inside, about a mile apart northeast and southwest of each other, and in n.'d-channel; but in another Russian chart they are placed near the iu)rthern sh()r(^ The bay stretches into the land and then branches into two arms, one leading to the north- east and the other a little east of north. This agrees with the description of Douglas, but nobody could jiossibly make anything out of his sketith. In his narrative he says they discerned tlie opening to the bay when east of Forrester Island, and when up to it they "got within a 8U)all islaiul that lies a quarter of a mile from the main land," and drifting down on the island, which was under thei*' lee, the ship was towed by canvas higher up the bay, when they "dropped anchor in vwenty-three fathoms, with a bottom of sand and shells." In this position the vessel is landlocked about a mile from tlie 94 ALASKA COAST PILOT. western shore, except being exposed to four points between east-northeast and east-southt'iist, (by compass.) By observation he placed tlie ancliorage in 54° 51'^ but on Tebenkoff the north point of entrance is in 54° 57', and the south, in 54° M'; the cuter islet is in 57° 50J'. In latitude 55°, twenty-six miles north, 00° west from Ins position of Cape Kygane, I;a I'crouse lays down Cape St. Augustin, but no such promontory exists. From a thonmgh study of La Perouse's narrative, and by plotting his positions on Tebenkotl', we iiud no reliance can be i)laced ui)on his general shore- line and positions. CAPE BAUTOLOMO. Forrester Island and the "Wolf Eock are nearly on the prolongation of the long, narrow peninsula stretching southward and terminating in Cape Bartolomo, in latitude 55° 12', longitude i;}3o 33', to the eastward of which peninsula lies a large archipelago, in large part ex])lored, through which the Russian vessels are accustonu'd to i)ass. Tiie cape is called Chirikoff on some of the Russian charts. Close to its southern extremity are uuirked sunken rocks with very deei) water outside. This cape is the southwest point of the southern entrance to Bucarelli Sound. From it the southeast point, named Cape Saint Felix, with a small islet on its southwest face, lies six miles south 12° east. The indications on TebenkofiPs chart that Bartolomo is comparatively low and wooded, and that for nine miles nearly north the i)eniiisula is only a mile across. Saint Felix, on the contrary, is backed by a mountain two miles to the north-northeast. BUCARELLI SOUND. The sound eastward of the large island of which Cape Bartolomo is the south- ern termination is vei-j' extensive and filled with large islands, between which l)ass wide channels with deep water. The channel between Capes Bartolomo and St. Felix is four or five miles wide, with bold water close to either shore. Its general direction is north by east for seven miles, then northeast twelve miles to the west point of the largo island of Saint John ; and the usual course is on the northwest side of this island. A great number of largo bays arc found along the shores of the numerous islands in tliis sound. The usual anchorage of the trading steamers is in Dolores Bay, which opens to the north, and lies ten miles to the north and east of Cape Bartolomo ; it is two miles deep by one and a half wide ; but the first bay inside the capes is Santa Crnz, o]»ening to the west four miles north of Capo Felix ; rocks lie half a mile off the northwest |)oint of the entramt' of this bay, which is three miles deep and over tme mile wide, with soundings from twenty to ten fathoms. The whole sound is too extensive to be described at this Www in d(^tail. From Caite Bartolomo its eastern extremity is about twenty-tlve miles east-northeast, and the northern entrance, among several, is twenty-five miles nctarly north of ALASKA COAST riLOT. 95 ' Bartolomo. From its southeastern waters at tlie eastern part of Ulloa Channel the Ileoak Strait runs south-southeast to the northwest part of Cordova Bay. Near the northern extremity a channel stretches eastward, and then to the north- northwest by the Schakhin Strait to the Otter Sound of Douf^las, in latitude 55° 54', and ten miles east-southeast from Capo Pole, at the north entrance to Clar- ence Sound. Eight miles east of Capo Felix is another entrance to this sound ; and the northwest part of the sound can be entered by several channels not yet thoroughly explored. Tebenkoff and the Admiralty Chart No. 2i'M give the general featiues of the sound; and Sarytcheft's large Russian atlas of 1 820 gives in detail the sound- ings throughout the shores. Sarytcheff erroneously credits the whole exploration to La Perouse. Tliis sound is Puerto del Bayli Bucarellio of Quadia, 1775, .and deserves thorough exploration. CAPE ADDINGTON. This cape is the westernmost of the island forming tln> western boundary of Bucarelli Sound, and lies seventeen miles north 28° west from Capo Bartolomo. "A conspicuous promontory" (Vancouver III, 2!)9) laid down by Tebenkott' in latitude 55° 27i', and longitude IS3° 45', described by IMeares, from the journal of Douglas, as a high bluff" laud lying iu latitude 55° 28', longitude 11VA° 3!)', and forming the south point of a great bay lying east of the line joining this capo and Coronation Island. No name having been applied to this bay, we have designated it as IiMgenia Bay, after Douglas's vessel. To this point Meares applied the name Cape Adamson. According to La Pdrouse's view it was visible at a distance of forty-iive miles from the northwest when he was oft" the Hazy Isles. Between Cape Bartolomo and Addington recent charts indicate a passage from the sea to the waters of the sound in the bight four or five miles east-south- east of the latter, so that when niiide from the westward the land adjoining the two capes appears to rise as two islands, as indicated in La P<;rouse'8 chart. From Cape Addington the Avesteru end of Coi'onation lies north .'50° west, thirty-one miles distant; and Cape Ommaney, at the western side of the entrance to Chatham Strait, lies nearly on the same course, at a distance of fifty miles. It will thus be seen that Capes Bartolomo, Addington, Coronation Island, and Capo Ommaney, lie nearly on the same course, which is tho general trend of the outer coast and headlands from Capo Kygane, in 54o 42', to Cape Fairweather, in 58° 51'. Il'HIGENIA BAY. This great bay lies eastward of the line joining Capo Addington and Cape Barnett, thirty-oiui miles south 27° east, and soutli 27° west of each other: and from the middle of that line the eastern shores lie twenty miles to the northeast- ward. From Capo Addington the general trend of the shores of the islands form- mamammmmm ALASKA COAST PILOT. iiig tliP southeast shore of Iphif^oiiiii Bay and the north boundary ot Bncarelli Sonn itered the mouth of a straight passage, not more than half a mile across from shore to shore, steering north, (compass.)" By the number of whales which were blowing a long way within the passage, it was evident there was plenty of Avater for the ship. At eight in the evening they anchored in seven- teen fathoms over a sandy bottom, about half a mile from the shore. In this situa- tion the ship was entirely land-h)cked, except at the entrance, and the anchorage was named Sea-otter harbor. In p' 'ling up the bay a passage was discovered out to sea, and so the ship lay on the east side of an island, and it Avas evident that the land forming the straits to the north consisted of islands. In three or four Ikhu's' i)ulling from the shij), and sounding, two arms of the straits were found, one stretching towards the north and the other to the east-southeast, (both coui- l)ass.) The eastern arm is perhaps the north entrance of Schakhin Strait, and the northern leads to a long, unnamed iidet. On his chart Meares desigiuites these wat(!rs as Otter Soiiiul. When Douglas left the mouth of tlie harbor Cape Bar- nett bore southwest by west half west (compass,) aud Cape Addiugtou south- by west half west, (compass.) The Admiralty Chart No. 2431, and Russian Chart No. 107, 1848, have an anchorage in a cove on the north face of the island, first north of Seaotter harbor and southwest of the entrance to Schakhin Strait ; no souudiugs given ; latitude 54° .W ; island about two miles in extent. In a late Avork Sea-otter Harbor has been erroneously placed in Bncarelli Sound, but the foregoing examinatiou clearly establishes its approximate position. NOUTIIWEST ENTRANCE CLARENCE SOUND. This entrance may be said to lie betAveen Capes Pole aud Decision, lying ten or eleven miles Aveat-nortliAvest aiul east-sontheast of each other, Avith the large islands Warren and Coronation lying southAvest broad off the entrance, and form- ing several channels thereto. ALASIt^V COAST PILOT. 97 Cape Decision, on the west, lies in latitude 50° 03', and Capo Polo in Coronation Island lies five miles south of Cape Decision, with some largo islands between them, bnt attbrding a passage one and a half mile wide between the cape and the nearest island by which vessels pass between Cliatham and Clar- ence Sounds. Admiralty Chart No. 2431, and Kussian Chart No. 10, have the west- ern entrance south of the first island lying oil" Cape Decision ; and Tebenkott" has an anchorage on the east side of the first island north of the west pi»int of Coroiui- tion Island, but no soundings are given. Coronation Island is high, eight miles long east-northeast and west-sontlnvest, by four miles wide, and tiie western p(»int is laid down by Tebenkoff, in latitude .>5o ':'*', and longitude 134'^ 10'. lietween the northeast j)art of the island and the nearest island an anchorage is laid down in one of the Kussian charts, but no depth of water given. Douglas saw tho island at a distance of thirty-five miles from the southward; he name«l the west- ern point Cape Barnett, ami says this island is h)w towards the si-a, but rises grad- ually to a considerable height. His latitude is erroneous, having estimated his distance. Warren Island is four miles east-southeast and west-northwest bj- two miles in width. Between it and Cape Pole, which is distant two miles to the eastward, lie several lurking rocks and islets. One and a half mile south of the middle of the island are several rocKS ; five miles south from the northwestern point of tho island several rocks arc laid down, and south by east six miles from the northwest point lies .1 small islet. The entrance to Clarence Sound, between Coronation Island on the west and Warren Island on tho east, is about six miles wide, and in mid-channel there is no bottom with one hundred and twenty fathoms of line. No passage is laid down between Cape Pole and Warrtni Island, and vessels from Otter Sound and the north part of Bucarelli Sound •. ss w(>st of the islets of Warren Island, and enter Clarence Sound between \ arren and Coronation islands. For the description of this entrance to Port Protection see remarks uuder head of Port Protection. PORT BEAUC'LEIL.* On the western side of the northwest entrance to Clarence Strait, about eighteen miles north-northeast from Point Borlase, the northern extremity of War- ren Island, lies a small island off the entrance to tliis port which is open to the east. In coming into the strait from the westward, round Cape Decision, the first point passed is St. Albans, about eight miles to the northeast of Decision; it is guarded by many rocks extending a mile from its extremity ; and for eight miles northward of it the shore is bounded by islets and rocks extending two mik's out to A melius,* which lies a league south of the entrance to the ]tort. The small 13 Namt'rt by Vaucouvcr, 1793. 98 ALASKA COAST TILOT. island marking tl;e entrance lies directly west of Mount Caldcr, and eifjht miles southwest (niartor west fiom Toint Baker, with an islet northeast of Kaker in ranye with the point. Tiie island in the entrance has some rocks aronnd it, but lies over a mile from the north point of entrance, and a mile from northeast of the south jtoint. This islet "admits of a good channel on either side." The outer points of the entrance to the port lie about north-northeast and south southwest, two miles from each other; thence the port stretches two and a half miles to the west-northwest, to the east side of a "small islaml with sundry rocky islets and regular soundings from thirteen to twenty fathoms." This island is in the middle of a narrow basin six miles long north and south, and from one to two wide, with a passage a mile long and half a mile wide on the u(H'theast side of the island ; and the other about the same width and a mile and a half long to the southwest. This is "an extremely good harbor; its access and egress are free from obstructions except such us ai'c suthcicntly evident to be avoided." "The sur- rounding shores are in general moderately elevated, well covered with wood; water is very easily procured, as tlu; communication with the shore is sutlicieutly commodious." Vancouver places the northeast point in latitude .'ifio 17', but without observa- tion. He designated the northeast point as that which lies one mile inside the outer and northeast point proper, rORT PROXnCTION. From Point Borlase, forming the northwest point of Warren Island, to the south point of the island in the lutrthwest bend of the Clarence Sound, the genertal direction of the strait is north by east half east for twenty-flve miles, with an aver- age available width of five miles, both shores bordered by numerous islets and rocks. Theiu;e the strait turns east round the northwest point of Prince of Wales Islaiul, and riuis twenty-live miles to the northeast point when it turns to the •southeast by south, aud at its northeast part receives the western entrance of Sti- kine Sound. Port Protection is situated on the nortlnvest extremity of Prince of Wales Island, where the Clarence Sound turns from its north ami south course abruptly to the east. It opens to the northwest, and its southern extremity or head lies at the base of a very remarkable barren, peaked mountain, which Vancouver named Blount Calder. Tiiis extinct volcaiu) is conspi.nious in many points of view, not from its superu/r elevation when compared with other mountains on the main, but from its height abov»< the rest of the ccmntry in its immediate vicinity, and IVoin its being visible in various directions at a great distance, lie observed upon it when ftmr or live leagues west of Cape Addington, at a distance of over sixty miles. Point Baker is on an islet close to the shore at the northeast point of entrance, from whence the opposite point lies south 27° west, at a (>, 207.) Thid rocky islet "was named Woodeu's Hock " (Vancouver, III, p. 298.) The land to the northward of the eai>e was observed npon by Vancouver at a distance of fifty-seven miles when off Capes Addington and Bartolomo. La IVrouse ]uuued this cape Tschirikoii", and placed it in latitude 50° 13A'. CHATHAM STBAIT, WITH ITS PORTS AND rNTEKSECTINa STRAITS. This magnificent arm of the sea stretches in a straight lino through the in)rthwesteru i)art of the Alexander Archipelago. From Cape Ouunaney, in latitude 50° 10', where it is twelve miles wide, to the liead of the eastern arm, iu 59° 20', it maintains a nearly uniform width of seven or eight miles, with no dangers excei)t close along the shores. The dei)th of water is very great, and no soundings have ever been laid down in it. In latitude 58° 32' we found no bottom with one hundred and fifty fathoms of line. Its general direction is north 13° west for two hundred miles, and if the chart of Tebenkoft" is correct, a course drawn throughout its length would not touch either shore. From it branch the great straits eastward and westward, leading to the base of the coast range of mountains and to the Pacific Ocean. Its northern termination is in a higher latitude than Mount Fairweather, while the peninsula between them, terminating on the nortli shores of Icy Strait, is a region unexplored, and from all indica- tions the home of the glaciers. The entrance to this strait was named Christian Sound by Colnett in 1788. La Perouse, in honor of Behring's commander, who landed under a capo in this latitude, and had two boats' crews massacred by the Indians, named the entrance Tschiiikoft' Bay, as to him it bore the appearance of a spacious bay [ ALASKA COAST ril^OT. 101 beliiud Cape Tschirikoff. Ton miles from the islaml.s oft* tlio oiitranct' ho ox- perie'iiced very s^^rong currents. lie gives a view of the coast Jieroaboiits, taivon from a position west of the Hazy Islands, with a hijjfh mountain hoariuj; north 40° east on the east side of Tschirikoff" Bay. rOUT CONCLUSION AND PORT ABMSTUONO. Between live and six miles northward from Cape Onimaney, on the western shore of Chatham Strait, lies the entrance to Port Conclusion, whoso soutlioru point is formed by an island about a quarter of a mile long', north northwest, Avitli deep Avater all around it, except toward the nmiii point southwest of jt ; between these lie an islet and sunken rocks. From this island to the in)rth point of the bay the direction is north, and the distance one mile, with sevcnty-Hve fathoms of water in mid-entrance. From the middle of the entrance the bay has a direction south 27° west for two and three-quarters miles, contraetiiiK for the last mile to a little over a quarter of a mile in width, with forty-four fathoms of water. No rocks arc known to exist in the bay, and the deei)est water in the bay is eiyhty-seven fathoms, about half a mile west by north Irom the south point of the island. Three-quarters of a mile inside the south ])oint there is a small cove, one-quarter of a mile in extent, facing north, with anchorage over irregular bottom in from Ave to fifteen fathoms. One and a qmirter mile inside the entrance is a very narrow cove, one-quarter of a mile long, about one-eighth of a mile in width, with four fathoms of water, and opening to the southwest or con- tracted head of the bay. In this cove Vancouver anchored. The head of this cove is separated by oidy one-quarter of a mile from the head of another bay southeast, and leading from the strait. It is one mile long, "runs nearly north, and has a very narrow entrance, with four fathoms. Inside are soundings in seven or eight fathoms. The Russian chart designates this as Alexander May, The latitude of the north point of the island forming the south point of Port Conclusion is 50° IC, and longitude 134° 27'. The north point of Port Conclusion, called Point Eliza, also forms the south point of Port Ai-mstrong, which has an opening to the cast from the strait of less than a quarter of a mile in width for half a mile in length, with soundings from ten to seven fathoms. Inside this narrow channel the bay expands to a basin one mile long by half a mile wide, with thirty-four fathoms of water, decreasing to twelve and eight close to the shores. The general direction of this port and its entrance is south 70° west, and extends one mile and a quarter. Vancouver gives a plan of it and describes it in volume II, pp. 208, 2G9. The head of Port Armstrong is only one mile east of the head of Lis- vinitchny Bay, making in from the Avest side of the peninsula, POUT MALMESBURY. This bay lies directly east of Port Coticlusion, on the eastern shore of ( •hat- ham Strait, sixteen miles north 00° east from Cape Ommaney, ami twentythreo 102 ALASlvii COAST l»lLOT. lit \i mill's iiortli of tlio west i)oiiit of Coroimtioii Isliiiul. ^IctwcPii Cape llpcision and till' liarlior the iiitcriiiciliatc shore is deeply indeiiteu by many small open bays and fiiiavded by niimerons rocks. Tlio. harbor is easy of access by keepiii}; near Ihe southern shore, and attbrds very excellent shelter, with soniidings from seven- teen to thirtyfonr and t\v«'Ive fathoms of water. From the entrance its direction is northeast for three miles, then south-sontheast for three miles, with some rocks and islets in it. It is conveniently situated to the ocean, and has its north point in latitude .ICP 17^' and longitude 134° 07'. Its north point is called Point Harris, and rendered very remarkable by being a projecting point on which is a single hill, apiiearing from many points of view like an island, with an islet and some rocks extending nearly to the southwest of it. (Vancouver, HI, j). 280.) Ho gives no plan of it, but its entrance and general features are exhibited on Tebeu- koft" and other Ilussian cliarts, and on Admiralty Chart No. 2431. Four or five miles northward ot Port Conclusion is a wide bay leading three or four miles westward, with two arms, one to the north and the other to the south. The head of this bay, not named, is within two miles of the liead of Toporkoff (i. c, Piijjin) Day, leading eastward from the west side of the peninsula. Thence northward the western shore is broken by numerous bays to southeast point of Peril Strait in T)'" 22'. The eastcnu shore, being the west side of Brooof or Keriou Island, is very nuich broken by nuiiu'rons bays, islets, ami rocks. Point' Ellis is the first prominent point on the eastern shore, north of Port Malmesbury. Vancouver placed it in latitude 50° 31', and the latest charts give the longitude 131° 17'. Along the northeast shore of Point Ellis a bay ten miles long stretches to the northeast. From its head to the head of Port Camden, lead- ing northward from Frederic Strait, a iiortage is used by the Indians, who carry their cauoes across it. Point Sullivan* is in latitude 50° 38', and longitude 134° 1G'.5. From it the shore is less rocky and more compact for thirteen miles north 9° west to Point Kingsmill.t At this point Chatham Strait is seven miles wide, with the opening of a small bay on the western shore, laid down on Tebenkoff about west by south from Point Kingsmill. Point Kingsmill, about forty-two miles northward of Cape Ommaiiey, is the southwest point of the entrance of Frederic Strait into Chatham Strait. Tlie northwest i)oint of entrance is Point Gardner, lying ten or eleven miles northwest by north half north from the former, with a small low-wooded islet, named Yasha Island, on the same course, about three miles ofl' Point Gardner. POINT GARDNER.t This point is the southwestern extremity of Admiralty Island, is about two mihis long by threecpiarters wide, and stretching south-sourliwest into Chatham Strait, reducing its Avidth to leas than Ave miles. * Niiiiiod I>Y Viini'oiivor. tNiHucrt by Vimcouver, 1794. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 103 Prom this point some rocks lie tlirt'o-(|uaitors of a iniU' south -'.'P oust, and oil tlio same beariufj Yasha Ishiiiil, small, low, and woimUmI, lies about tlinw mlloa distant. By observation Vancouver placed the i)oint in latitiulu 57° 01', and Tebenkotf {fives its lonj^itude l'.U° 2(5'.r» south. About two miles cast of tho point lie two isl(!ts, and between them and th«^ point is laid down an anchorajte for the tradin{;r vessels, but no souiulinj«s are noted. This aiu-horajje is open to the south, and the ocean swell from the southward is said to bo felt here. At or uear this point the Indians report coal. The eastern shore of the strait, northward of Point Gardner, is uuiformlj' bold, indented by bays and free from shoals. The main island is comparatively high and wooded. The first anchorage is at the bay called the Lower Koutsnow, ehivcn miles northward of Point Crardner, and is reported good by the Saginaw. Oiu) mile bi'oad oft' the middle of this bay lie some rocks ; the track of tlic trading ves- sels is laid down east of them. The latitude is 07° ll'.."> and longitude i;JP .'50'. Twenty-three miles north of Point Gardner is the broad open bay, named HooiTs Bay by Vancouver, with a large island under its northern shore. On the n(n-tli side of this island, about three miles eastward of its western point, is laid down the anchorage of the trading steamers, abreast the large settlenumt called Koutsnow. Tlie Saginaw reports "several anchorages in and around Koutsnow," one abreast the Indian settlement, one to the right, and one in tlie channel-way below the rapids, one to the northward and westward of the island, forming the northwestern boundary of Hood's Bay, in latitude 57° 28'.5, longitude 134° ;{ t'. No soundings are given. The northwestern point of llood's Bay is formed by Point Samuel, aiul between this point and the large island southeast of it is the entrance to Mud Bay, an unexplored water, nearly dividing Admiralty Island, and rei»orted to have a violent race at its entrance at certain states of the tide. This grcsat extent of water forms really an "inland archipelago," being filled with numerous islands. Bapids are encountered inside; abundance of all kinds of fish. In 1808 there was opened in this bay "a mine of the best bituminous coal yet found upon our Pacific coast," by the United States steamer Saginaw. In coming eastward through Peril Strait, Admiralty Island, to the eastward, looks like a great wooded, low plain, being the space occupied by this great bay ami adjacent low shores. Directly west of Hood's Bay, Peril Strait enters the west side of Chatham from the ocean through Salisbury or Klokatchef Sound, and by Sitka Sound. The two points are Schkaliakh Point at the south, in latitude '>1° 24', and Point Tlakinikut at the north, in latitude "i° li!)', and lying nearly north and scuith of each other. The western part of this strait lies nearly west-northwest and east- southeast for twenty miles. In the strait off Point Schkaliakh lie immerous rocks and islets, with one or two available anchorages. We anchored in sixteen fathoms, soft bottom, between 104 ALASKA COAST PILOT. tlio iwlcts iind tlip iiiiiiiilaiid soiitliwanl. But it is not advisablo to pass ninoiif; tliciii witljoiit a pilot. (Sec iciiiaik.s upon Peril Strait.) Close iiiider I In; western shore of (!liatliaiu Strait, alxnit seven miles iioitli- ward of I'eril Strait, Tebeidiotl" notes a white roek, not laid down on other ehart». Nearly east of it, on the eastern slioro, is tho Point Pitrlcrr of Vauconver, in lati- tude r)7° .'57', while a lea>,nie to the southeastward of it, in a small cove, is an ojien- in;; about the eighth of a nillt^ wide. In the entranee Whidhy found fiv«' fathoms of water, lint after advancin<; half a mile in he found it full of shallows. Tho a«\iacont land to the south and east is low and wooded. At this entranee he obtained herrin;,' from the Indians, July 1704. J'itrlint art' oiio small island and tlirt'c rocky isletM," one of which lies nearly in niidchanin-i, Tiicnco northward the shorp is fontuMl by a narrow border of low lands, well W(M)d»'d witli larfj*' treoH and backed by hif,'h mountains covered with snow. It is lu'arly strai^-ht, and its p'ueral direction is nortli by west half west for sixty miles to the mouth of the Cliilkaht. Abreast of Point Aufjusta the strait is much contracted by J'oint Mamdeii,* lyiuf,' less than four miles northwest from the f«»rmer, in latitutle ijso (Mi'. Northward of Point ("(uiverden the strait has a width of four or five miles for eleven miles to Pohit lietreat,* on the eastevn slum*, and forminf>' the northennnost l>oint of Admiralty Island, and placed by Vancouver in latitude 58° 1'4', and by Tebenkott" in longitude 134o 59/. For six or eij^ht miles of this island south of Point Retreat the land is low, level, and heavily wooded, and fi .1 its formation would well sufjfjest the nauu> of Terrace Point. When rmnuling the iiorth end of the point we had a short view of a great glacier bearing north 15° east by compass, but with the thick, squally weather it was dilHcidt to estinmte its distance. It doubtless comes from the southwest flank of the high mountain named the Lion's Head by the United States Coast Survey, situated about (Ifteen miles east of Berner's Bay, and froiu which a stream empties into the strait about ten miles north-northeast of Point lletreut. This stream has a very extensive shoal otf its mouth. Barlow Cove* lies on the east side of Point Uctreat, and stretches five miles to the southward, with a width decreasing from two miles to one at the head, near which we anchored in sixteen fathoms muddy bottom. The extent of the bay and its safety is increased by a long island stretching nearly across its entrance on the northeast, but allowing good passages to the westward of it, both northwest and southeast. The shores of the bay are well wooded, low, and composed of regulai-ly stratified, finegrained mica schists, lying northwest and southeast magnutie, and containing large quartz veins, in which wo found nothing but iron pyrites. The dip of the stratification is vertical. Point Retreat is the northwest point of the north entrance to Stephen's Passage, leading ninety miles eastward and southward to Frederick Soiuid. In the middle of Chatham Strait, three miles north of Point Retreat, is a larg.i comparatively low island, whose northwest extremity stretches six miles northwest to with) I three miles of the west shore of the strait. Teb kofi" gives the trading tracks on either side of this island, but other charts .ace the track only to the west, and fill all the space between the east- ern side of the island and the main with islet^•, and the great bank ofi' the river mouth. Vancouver says Whidbey found this channel difficult to navigati', even with boats; numberless rocks lay between the group of islets and the continent, from the shores of which a shallow bank extends nearly half a league. Two miles 14 • Named by Vancouver in 1794. 100 ALASKA COAST PILOT. northwest of the northwestern point of this island no bottom is found with one hnndred and fifty fatlutms of line. M'liidhey Point is the name ai)plied by the Coast Siu-vey (1807) to tlie wooded projeeting point on the w-^st shore of the strait, about twenty-three miles north l(»o west from Point Couverden. A small islet lies close to its southeast point, where Wliidbey observed the latitude oSo ;{5'. This point "forms a projecting jtromontory about a league long in a northerly direction.'' 7>VrHfv'.s' Bay.* — Five or six miles northeast by east from Point Whidbey lies Point Bridget, the southwest point of IJemer's Bay. The northwest point of the bay is I'oiiit St. Mary,* and lies north -Oo Avest, about four mileu from Bridget, while the bay is five miles deep in a noi ill n^.theast direction. No soundings are given in this bay. Both points are low, and heavily wooded, Vancouver places Point St. ?,rary in latitude 53o 4;3i', and Tebenkoff in longitude 135o 02'. >«orthward of this the shores of the strait are compact and .straight, but the width (Ucrei ses very gradiuiily to six or seven miles in latitude 58° 54', Avhere a long island on the western side contracts it to four or five miles. (>tf the .southern point of the larger island is an islet about two miles from the western shore, and this was "NVhidoey's place of observation. From this islet the larger island, which is one mile broad, stretches north-north- west about live miles parallel with the western .shore, and leaving a channel about a mile wide, but having at its southern entrance shoals that extend nearly across it. Point Seduction.* — In latitude 51P Oli', according to Vancouver, lies the south l)oint of a tongue of comparatively low land, one ^)v two miles broad, stretching twelve or fifteen miles south-southeast, directly into the middle of the strait. From this point stretches "a range of small islands about four miles in a southerly direc- tion; all have trees upon theiii excei)t the southernmost, which is a fiat, bax-reu rock." The western arm, about two miles wide, I'cceives the river Chilkaht; and tlie eastern arm, about three miles wide, has low land at the head, but is not known to receive a stream of any .size. DAVIDSON GLACIER. In latitude 59° 07', abreast of Seduction Tcnigue, a magnificent glacier issues from a narrow gorge betvt'eeu high, bold, snow-covered mountains on th- ^vestern shore, and hr.s forced out a low point, now covered with spruce trees, into the strait. AVhen we passed it, going northward, the fog hung over it so closely that wi' could .see, over the timber, only a part of its deep .scarred front. Southward of tnc main glacier a small branch couu\s through ii crooked ravine to the water's edge. From our anchorage, abreast of Observatory Lsland, near the mouth of the Chilkaht, we obtaiiu'd measurenu'nts of the part of the maui glacier visible east of the mountain's flanks, \ssuming the distance at six .statute miles, the part exj)o.sed * Nampd by Vancouver, 1794. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 107 was fifty-sovon Imiidred feet long; of this, forty-two liuiulrod and sixty-fivo feet Lad a very uniform and regular inclination of 4° 4.'5' 21", and the height of the i)art cut by the mountain-side, or fifty -seven hundred feet from its front, Avas six V'.ni- dred and forty-flve feet above the Avater. After leaving the gorge it spreads itself into a vast fan-shaped mass fr^m two to three miles broad. The moraine in front is a low flat about ,i quarter of a mile in width, and com])osed of fragments, some- times of great size, of slate, sienitic granite, and a flue ehrystalline, beautiful, white marble. Two moraines are found on its northern slope. CniLIC^HT RIVER. This moderately large stream enters the north westernmost branch of Chathaiu Strait iu latitude 59° 13', by the determinations of the United States Coast Survey, and lies about eight miles further north than Point Sedu(;tion. Abreast of Glacier Point the branch is only one mile in width, with the deeper water near the east- ern shore. Two or three miles north of the glacier the Avidth is lu'arly three miles, Avith a moderately large v ooded island close to the eastern shore, a\ hich is iudented by scA'eral snuill bays, but Avhen' no soundings are laid down. FiAe or six miles north-nortliAvest of Clacier I'oint is a low, burnt-oft" point, with fifteen to tAventy fathoms half a mile east of it, and a small coac on the northwest side of it, open to the northeast. Anchorage is laid down here in eighteen fathouis by Lindenberg, and it Avould appear a better anchorage than iu the open branch, Avhere the strong ebb currents of fhe rlA'er, running against a strong southerly AA'ind, niaice a very disagreeable bertli. At this anchorage Pcsichnni (Farewell J Island, a small, pyra- ntidal, treeless islet, occui)icd by the Coast Survey as an astrononiical station, will bear northeast by north one and a half mile. lietween this bay and the island soundings are given from twelve to tvvnty-seven fathoms. Shoal ground sur rounds the island for a couple of hundred yards, and stretches northeast toAvards the main, leaving a narrow channel of only four fathoms on iis east side. The bench of the island is strewn \Tith large, erratic boulders. "We anchored abont one mile northwest by Avest from the island in fifteen fathoms, Avith u Aery tenacious blue muddy bottom, afTtbrding capital holding ground, but Avith southerly scjualla tailed into three fathoms. The river is a mile and a half wide at its mouth, and runs ten miles nortliAvest, to Avhich distance thiee feet can be carried at half tide. At low water tiie bar ajipcared to be dry all the way across. The intlueiice of the tide is felt but a short distance. At Cascade Point, on the Avest side of the bar, the rise of the tide is only eight feer, and at P(>int JUa, about five miles inside tho bar the rise is only one foot. The general direction of this river is to the northward between high ]>recipi- tons mountains, whose sides are in great part destitute of timber, ami exhil>it con- stant disintegrati(ni by the action of the frosts. Sir Cieorge Siin]ison says the Indians ascend it about fifty miles to a Aalley running toAvards Mount Fairweather, and (iontaining a large lake, which pours its Avaters into the open ocean at Admi- ralty (Ik'hnng) Bay. This can hardly be the geographical fact. The Indians 108 ALASKA COAST TILOT. reported to us tliey ascended the river for twenty days to a preat lake, (wheneo tlicy make a portage to the Lewis River,) and conhl descend the same distance in two days. The astronomical station of the Coast Survey was on the sniidl treeless islet named PeKtchani CFarcwellJ or Sandy, off the motitlt of the Cliilkalit, and the deter- mination of the ji;*'<'R'i'pl''<"'l position diflers from the survey of Lindenberp: for the Hussian-Americau Company. The latitude is .59° 11' 4.'!" north, the lon<>ituile i:\'P L'.V 01" west, or in time, 'Mi. 01»». 40.3s. Lindenberf;; placed it, by his survey, in latitude 59° OG'.l, and longitu'^e 13.>o ;{(>'.7, while AVhidbey i)laced the bar of the river in 59° 12'. A sketch of Cliilkalit River and ai>proaclics, showing anchor- ages, &c., is given on the Russian map Xo. 10, of the Pacific series. ]<'roin our aiiy Vuncimvcr in 1794. tNiu>M>«l by Viiucouver ill 17114. ALASIvA COAST PILOT. 100 rocks arc laid down between It and the soutlieni shore, but the eominaiuhn' of the Sayiiiiiw reports that it may be passed to the southward, in which case keep "ch)se aboard aiound the northwest point of Knprianoft" Island." From Toiut Kingsmill to Point Cornwallis* the south shore trends north 47° east for seven miles. The spaci> between these two points is occupied by two bays, each takinj? a general southeast direction ; one to one and a half mile in widiii, with a length of four or live miles, and tilled with many islets and dangerous rocks. In the first bay nnder the western point wus the Kakc village in 1.S07. The second bay has been (1808) named Saginaw Bay;t the ai.chorage is about a mile and a half inside Point Cornwallis, on the po.t hand going in, and nearly abreast of the Indian village, both east and west, in J'rom seven to eleven fathoms over muddy bottojn. Although open to the northwest the anchorage is completely sheltered, but is of limited extent, there being ground « nough for about a dozen large vessels. It is very easy to lind llu' anchorage, which can be entered either by sailing vessels or steamers with fair or head winds. It is contemplated to establish a United States military post at this place; and it may become important for cod lishiug, as the fish are reported to run in gi'eat numbers, in the sunnner, around and near its entram;e. The geographical position of tlu! Indian settlement is in latitude r>VP 'M', lon- gitude li54o 10', according to Ttbenkoff and Admiralty Chart Is'o. 2431, but the Saginaw places it in latitude .'jGo 'm'.'), longitude l'M° OO'.o. Eastward of the long, low, narrow, wooded point Cornwallis, lies the Kako Strait,t from four to five miles wide, leading southeast aiul south nearly forty miles to the northwest bend of Chirencje Strait, directly oi)i)osit(i Port Protection. It is filled witli an intricacy of rocks and islets, yet through which one of the small trading schooners beat to the northward in 1807. The northeast point of entrance to theKake Strait is Point Macartney,^ in latitude 57° 01^' and longitude 13)'^ 50', and eleven miles northeast by east quarter east frf>m Point Cornwallis. Vancouver describes this as a large, rounding, but not lofty pronnmtory, in which are several small open coves, and near it several detached rocks. Hamilton Unrhor. — On the east shore of Kake Strait and about eight miles south-southeast of Point Macartney lies the entrance to Hamilton Ilaibor, about a mile wide and stretching five miles in an easterly diicctiou. Two islets lie west- ward of the southwest poiu*^^ of entrance. An arm oi tJiis harlHU' runs two miles north-northwest just inside the north point. In this harbor Vancouver found the sites of no less than eight old Indian villages; but it is now of importance as being the locality where "a mine of good bituminous coal has been partially opened," (-Iidy 31, 18(»S.) The location of this mine is on the south side of the luirbor, three miles from the south point. "The chart exiiibits the ai)proaches us being difficult navigation, on account of islets and rottks ; Init it is not so, at any rate for steamers." Tlie Saginaw gives its latitude 5(»o 'i'l'.A and 1° 4;j'..'» east of "Niiiiicil liy N'lMii'ouvcr in l7iM. tNimu'il liy tln' I'ii'(f(\ SliitcM navy. \ Ki'ku Strait on all ItuKNiiiu clinrtH. 110 ALASIGV COAST PILOT. Sitki). or 1'?'?° .'?l'.2 west, Tebeiikoff and other Russian maps place it in JjGo 54', lonKitndo. l.'J.'JO aC. JWt Camden. — This is an arm of Kalce Strait, opening to the north on the western shore about five miles directly south of the south point of Hamilton Har- bor. It is about a mile and a half wide at the entrance, runs south five miles, then t<()uth-soutliwest six miles further, with a decreased width of a mile. Seve- ral islets exist at its entrance and through its length. In a cove on the east shore seven miles from the entrance, coal was reported (May 1808) to exist in several small \oiiis, cropping out about twcTity feet above low-water mark, with interven- ing strata of liard rock. The coal itself is about six inches in thickness and the veins are at varying distances, fiom twenty to fifty feet, froni eacii otlier. They have a dip to the southward of 35° to 40°, and their direction is nearly east and Avest. The entire beach is a formation of sandstone from high to low water mark, and a rise and fall of tide estimated at thirty feet. Tlie harbor is perfectly safe, with good anchorage in six to fifteen fathoms, soft muddy bottom. Numer- ous streams flov. into the harbor, and the adjacent country is thickly wooded. According to Admiralty Chart Ko. 2431, the position of this coal is in lati- tude r.(Jo 42', longitude 1330 r,o'. rortufje Rnrbor. — Twenty miles east by south half south from Povorotny (Turnabout) Island, in Frederick Strait, lies the entrance to Portage or Percnosna Harbor, one of the anchorages of the Eussian and English trading steamers, but no soundings are given. An islet lies off its northern entrance, which is open to the north and readily noticed in passing. The country on either side is only moderately liigh and timbered. The harbor has a general soutli-southeast direc- tion for four miles, and its head is only two miles from the head of Duncan Chan- nel, coming in froiv. Stikine Sound. The country between this and Point Macart- ney is low and moderately wooded for three or four miles back, but the cape of wliicli ^Macartney is the western point is (piite high and heavily timbered. Foiiit Vandqnit,* on the north side of Frederick Strait, lies about ten miles east by north from the islet oft' Portage Harbor, with rocks stretching one mile south of its extremity. Vancouver says this low, narrow point of land is two miles long and about half a mile broad. On its western side and at its junction with the main is an anchorage of tiie trading steamers, but with no soundings given. According to our bearings from the three islets near the entrance to Wrangell Passage, a maf^nilicent glacier exists at the head of the cove or bay on the east side of Point Vandepnt. Put the Aveather was th'ck and rainy, and the various charts of this locality are very ditt'erent in tlieir details, so that this glacier may be.in reality one laid down on Tebenkolf nine miles southeastward of Point Van- depnt, in latitude .5(1° 5!)', at tlie head of a small bay east of a point about six miles northward «)f Wrangell Strait. Vancouver says that along this shore is a • Nnmeil by Vaucouver In 1794. I i ALASIOV COAST PILOT. Ill small oxtcut of low, flat land, well wooded, lying inimodiatoly l)oforo tlio lofty mountains which here rise abruptly to a prodiffions height. A few miles to the south of this low margin the mountains come directly to the water's edge and "presented an un(!onimonly Avoful appearance, rising to a vast height, aiul loaded with an immense (piantity of ice and snow overhanging their base, August ll'M.'" In the Avinter of 185.'5-'4 one of the California ice ships took in a cargo of ico from the face of one of these glaciers. Wrangell Pnsmifc. — This is the passage from Stikine Sound to Frederick Sound, by which the interior navigation of the great archipelago is completed without going outside. It has not been surveyed in detail, but a Russian recon- noissance has been published by which a vessel at low water may be in a meas- ure guided, but without a pilot it is advisable to sound ahead, and make the pas- sage about low water. In coming from the north the entrance may be readily found ; vessels keep close along the western shore of Frederick Strait, and threes miles after passing the cape lying south of Point Vandeput, go on either side of three small wood(?d islets, lying about a mile off the western shore. Tebenkoff has but two islets ; wo noted three. About three or four miles southward of these islets the narrow opening of Wrangell Passage is seen. The general direction of the i)assage is north and south and its length about eighteen miles. About midway two chan- nels enter it; one from the southeast opening opposite Vnuks Island; the other from Duncan Channel. Both have small . lets in their entrances and a vessel will uot be misled bj' them. The shores on both sides of the Wrangell Straits are getierally low and flat, covered with spruce, and cut by numerous sloughs, allording water-courses from the high nuiuutains in the background. Vancouver says the land lying between Kake Strait and the main is chiefly of moderate height, and produces a "noble fcjrest of large and stately pine trees of clean and straight growth ;" ami the shores along the bays, arms, and straits, between Chatham Strait and the main, are in general low, and apparently lit for cultivation if cleared of wood. • ♦STEPHENS STRAIT. . From the north s'de of Frederick Strait, twenty miles from its junction with Chatham Strait, opens Stephens Strait, with u v.'!dth of twenty miles between Nepeaii Point on the east and Cape Fanshaw on the west. The fornu-r is placed by Vancouver in latitude 57<2 10', and (h'scribed as a high, steep, blulf, rocky jioiiit, otf which lies a ledge of nnrks about half a mile. From it Povoroiiiy f Tunuthotil J Island lies Ave or six miles east-southeast. Cape Fanshaw is placed in latitude 57° 11', and described as a very conspicuous, low, projecting point, from which one shore trends sixteen miles east southeast towards Point Vandeput, and the other north eighteen miles to Point Windham.* " Nnuit'd 1)v VuiK'imver in IT'.M. 9s^^m mmmm 112 ALASKA COAST TILOT. From tills broad ontriince the strait ruiis north by oast for eighteen miles to Point AVMndliani, av1i« i-e it is ('ontracted to tliree miles in width ; then northwest by ntnth thrce-qnarters north forty-five miles to Point A'den, with an average width of Ave miles; then west-northwest for thirty miles to Chatham Strait, at Point Ketreat, in latitude 58° 24'. The southern entrance is marked by nnmerous islets, but with broad passages and deep water between them ; the western shore is much Inokeii. The easteru shore is indented by the large bay named Port Houghton.* The entrance is three miles wide, with Point Walpole on the south, and Point Ilobart on the north, lying north 11° west and s(mth 11° ea.st from each other. Off Point Walpole lie a number of small islets. Off Point Ilobart extends a bunk of sand for a little distaiu^o from slune; but there is a clear passage between it and the islets, to the eastward of which a snug anchorage is found at a considcrabh! distance from shore in ten and six fathoms of water over sand aud muddy botton). The bay extends south 70° east for Ave or six miles, and is bouiuled by lofty mountains, from whose bases extends a small border of low land forming the shores. About sixteen miles from Frederick Strait, and ai>parently in the middle of Stephens Strait, when seen from the south, stretches Point Hugh, with the strait on the east and Seymour t Bay to the west. Point Hugh is a "lofty, rocky pro- montory," off which extends a ledge of rocks upon which there are considerable breakeis in a southeaster. Seymour Bay opens between Points Gambler aud Hugh, lying nortli 29° east and south 29° west, five miles from each other, the •hannel has an average width of three or four miles, and runs northwest by north for twenty-nine miles, terminating in latitude 57° 51'. Numerous islands occupy the northern ten miles of the bay. The adjacent country is moderately high, and is covered with timber of large growth, excei)t towards Point Hugh. Point Windham is in latitude 57° 30', and lies northwest by west from Point Hugh four («• five miles, but the nearest shore is directly west, and only throe miles distant. JS^nthward of I'oiut Windham the eastern shore is broken by two large bays. The first is llolliham Bay,* with Point Astley for the south point, and Port Coke for the north, lying ufU'th 29° west, ..bout four miles from the former. In the middle of the entrance is a small island, towards which a shallow baidc extends from either shore. There are two other islets inside, aud about which Vancouver found nuich floating ice in August, 1794. The bay is sevn or eight miles deep, and " bounded by the lofty range of mountains." Froin Point Coke, in a direction ■south l.'io west two ami a half miles distant, are two rocky islets nearly in the middle of the strait. The trading steamers pass on either side of them. The second bay is twenty-two miles from Point Windham, and was named I'ort Snettisham by Vancouver. The south point of entrance is Point Anmer and * Named by Vimcouver in 1794. t Named Seymour's Cbauuel by Vancouver, 1794. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 113 tlie noitliwest point is Point Styleman, situated in latitu(lt> 57° .W, aiul lyinpf two and a lialf miles north Xi° west from the tbrnier. The bay extends nortlieast lour milevS and then soutlieast tlu-ee miles ; the shores arc high and steep and i)rodueo very few trees. The Russian traders use an anchoraffe in latitude 58°, ten miles frE EDGECUJIBE. From Cape Ommaney, in latitude 'AP 10', to Cape Edgecumbe, in latitude 570 01', longitude 135° 40', the distance is sixty -six miles, .and the general trend of the coast about ncn'tli 40° west, indented with numerous biiys of large and small extent, and generally bounded by a bold, rocky shore, covered with spruce to the ■water's edge, and backed by a high mountainous country, very much broken and tilled with timber. KED CAPE. Fourteen miles, about north 40° west, from Cape Ommaney is Red Cape, the southwest point of a large ar: of the sea making six miles into the land uorth- Avard and having a width of two miles. Three other deep bays, Lisvinitchny, Toporkof,* and Little Strelki,t indent the shore between Cai)o Ommaney and Ked Cape. PORT RANKS. Thi?"teen miles north-northwest from Ked Cape is the south point of the three miles wid(! entrance to Port Banks, with three hirge arms penetrating the island, one of them nearly crossing to Chatham Strait. The north arm is a continuation ot ,fc "Puffin. t Little Arrow. ALASKA COAST IMLOT. 11.") tin' main bay, which stretches about north-northeast tor nine or ten miles, and in this arm the Knssian navigators inform us there is anelunaye. Konr mih's witiiin the entrance uloufj the sontlieast slun-e, and one mile before rounding the iioint openinff the two interior arms, Tebenlcolf };ives a well prote<-ted anchoraiic and deep bay openinj^ towards tiie north. Tim sonndinys in this anehoraf;e are lifleen fathoms, Tebenkolf calls this bay "Whale IJay, but it is the l\nt IJanks of Dixon, who entered it in June 1787. He }?ives a sketch of it, and th<' (Ictails of the soiitii haibor appear better than those of Tebenkolf. He says, pajj-e Kt.'t: "On our ajuuoachiufj; the land the channel ahead had the ai>pearance of a river from the north, but the tide setting: strouf^ly out of it, and the wind shiftiii},' to the north- ward, we stood into a line harbor which now opened to the southeast. At the entrance we had sonndiii^s from fifty to sixty-live fathoms of water over a rocky bottom; but as we advanced further in the s(nindinys lessened to twcnty-oiu' fath- «)ms with mud, on which we came to anchor, being comi»letely land-locked and within musket shot of the shore both to the northward and southward." He gives nineteen fathoms at the entrance, which is to the eastward of two small islands abreast the west point ; and he has four islets inside, and also a stream not laid down by Tebenkolf. Tebenkolf aptly names this Protection Bay, and tin- Adnu- ralty Chart Xo. 2i'M calls it Closed liay. The south point of the entrance from the ocean Dixon calls Point Lander;* the north point is unnamed. The geographical position of Point Lauder, according to Dixon and JJenze- nmn, is latitude tUP :i'.y, longitude ^•M° 58'; and of the northwest imint, latitude rAio ;i.j.O', longitude VM° o!)'. TebenkotY has a snudl plan in his chart, but it is evi- dently only a reconnoissance. This port should be examined and its capabilities known, as it may aflbrd good refuge and protection to a vessel nimble to nndvc Sitka Sound by stress of northwest winds, or heavy southeast weather coming up. La Perouse saw the opening of this bay and named it Port Guibert. On his chart its latitude is 50° 38^'. Off Port ^ianks he saw Mount Edgecumbe, and gives an erroneous view of it from latitude 5(5° 25'. At the same time he saw Capo Ommaney and Coronation Island, distant forty-three miles. The north point of Port Banks forms the south ])oiut of a broad' open bay six or eight miles deep and ten miles across. On some Eussian (iharts it is called Rocky Bay. La Perouse saw the opeidng to this bay, named it Port Necker, and gave its latitude as 5(P 5L'i'. The shore runs north fen- eleven miles, and then west-southwest for six or seven, forming this unnamed bay, with a cluster of large islets near the middle of it, and extending out to the general line of the coast. They are called the Egg Islands, but we find no descrii)tion of them. Thence to Biorka Island, the south point of Sitka Souml, the coast is cut by several narrow arms running deeply into the shore, and guarded by great nund)ers of islets and rocks laid down only in a general nmnner. * Al'trr die KurK<' by Bodejja. J Admiralty ibait, ti,m) feet ; Heleber, ;t,l,')0 feet ; Lisiansky e.stinnitod it at 8,000 feet. I )» ALASICA COAST TILOT. 117 M and east sides form tlio noitli and west shoros of Sitka Sound and tlic passa^ics northward, wliilc its north side forms the south shore of Salisbury or IvlokatciietV Sound. OH' Capo Rdfjooumbe the mountains Crillon and Fairwoathor, distant one liun- drcd and twenty-live miles to the northwest, are distiiuHy visible in clear weather. La I'erouse has a view of tliom from a position near this ea[»e. From Cape Edjjeeumbc the north shore inside the entranee to the sound runs a general and nearly stniight course of east half north for seven nules to Otmoloi Point, or Point of Shoals, off whieli, at the distaiu!e of a mile, lit; the Low Island and roeks, with a passage reported between the point and island. Nearly midway between these points, and one and si half mile olf shore, lies thi^ moih'rately hij^h wooded island of St. Lazara or Cape Island, with from twenty to five fathoms of water between it and the shore. Lisiansky landed in a small bay northiioitlieast from Capo Island, where the shore was formed of a lava elitf about thirty feet high. The south shore, inside the entranee to Sitka Sound, is broken by innunierablo roeks and low wooded islets, and indented by large bays. The whole shore is cov- ered with spruce, making it ditlieult to distinguish the islands. No sunken roeks are known to exist nearer the entrance than Williams Bank, the and a half miles north-northeast from the northwest point of Biorka, and lying some distance off the low islands inside. The bauk appears to consist of four or five sunken rocks, upon some of which the sea invariably breaks. AVithin the entrance the sound contracts its width to six miles between Point of Shoals aiul Williams Bank, with deep water to and inside that line. From Point of Shoals to J}ouranotf Point, forming part of the south shores, the bearing is oast by south, the distance seveu and a half miles ; and on this line the souml is contracted by the Low Island and rocks, one mile distant from I'oint of Slios'ls; by the Vitskari and adjacent rocks, three miles distant; by the KulichotV Jfock and adjacent suidcen rocks, five miles distant from this sanu' i)oint. Deep chan- nels exist between Low and Vitskari, Vitskari and Kulichoff, and Kulicli(»ff and the islets oft' BouranofT Point, with, liowever, dangerous rocks in the latter. Be- tween Vitskari and Otmoloi, L' siausky gives soundings in eighteen, seventeen, twenty, and seventeen fathoms. But the channel invariably used by the Eussians is that between Vitskari ami Kulichoff. On the English chart this channel is erroneously contracted by the laying down of a sunken reef extending one mile east of Vitskari, nearly on the line towards Kulichoff. In 1800 the Russian naval otHcers laid down sixty fathoms, two-thirds of a mile from Vitskari, on this very bearing. The captains of the I'us- sian-Aniericau Company assure us that they can and have i)assc(l Vitskari along its southeast face within half a cable's length when steering a direct course to Mochnati, a course north (iii^ east, true. We have made it close aboard when coming in at evening, with very thick, heavy weather from the southeast, and saw no breakers to iudicate such a reef; in fact, were nxisleit by not finding the '1 118 ALASKA COAST I'lLOT. hrciiki'iM iu'conliiij,' to tlio chart. We havf^ also hcpii it from the sontlisontli(>ast wlicii (lien- was no Itrcakcr otf its caNtcrn face, Imt the Idcaivcrs on tln^ reef oiio niilc luiilli of it really apid'arcd to bo hnsikiiif; oil' tlu' castiTii face of the rock, himI tlii« appeaiaiico may have led to the above error. It appeared, from tlie dis- tance of a mile or two, to be about forty yards loiifj and ton feet above liigh watcu', wilii a roni^li, irre^iular surface. In smooth weather it has been landed upon, and the United kStates Coast Survey has already recommended that a li^lit be placed ui)ou it, as from this point it would illuminate an arc iorka it bears north l!l° oast, distant seven and a iialf miles. KulichotV lJ(»ck is laid down on the Enjjflish chart south by east two miles from Vitskari. It is about twenty feet hit,'h, and less in extent than Vitskaii. There are sunken r(>cks to the north and south-southwest of it, about half a nule distant, and om^ towards Vitskari, about a (puirtor of a mile oil', with doci) water and dan;,'erous sunken rocks botwcicu the Kulicholf and the islets oil" Point Houra- nolf. r>ut Tobcjukolf and the old liussian charts place the Vitskari ami Kulicholf three miles ajmrt, while the latest unpublished Russian examinations about Knli- cholf place the. reef a short distance north of the ro»;k, with a passaj^e of twelve fathoms between them ami dose to the rock; and one of tiie Kussian navifjtiitora assures us ho has taken his ship tlirough the i)assa(,'e. The Enjjlish chart places Kulichott" more than two miles from Tiouranort, but the latest Russian deteniiina- tion juakcs it only - ne and a half milo. On a muH'.iM ri)»l (lussian majt Kuli(!hoff is laid down south 48° west from the governor's hous" at'.! light, and the ledge about half a milo northward of it. For four inii,;s inside of Vitskari Kock we find clear, deep water, up to the range of wooded islands and rocks lying for two miles outside of Sitka harbor. Tlirough this barrier of ishuuls there are three channels to the anchorages east and west of tlic town. Those passages ai'o known as the eastern, middle, and west- ern, the former being the longest, and the middle one the shortest, to eitlier anchorage. The approaches to these passages are free of all known dangers, except towards the eastern. The Zenobia Rod* has been imperfectly laid down, but the westernmost pt)sition assigned to it is one and tliree-cpuirtcrs mile iu>rtlieast, half east from Kulichoff Kock, when the south side of Dolgoi or Long Island will bear north (Jfo oast; iiiul the eastern point of Sandy island, on the north side of tiie eastern channel, boars oast-northoast, so that a vessel should not bring Sandy Island anything to the north of that bearing. The Zonobia has lifteon feet npon it at low water. Ono-tputrtcr of a mile eastward of it, on the same bearing to Bolgoi Island, is the Kadiii Rock with twelve feet. It is a sharp-pointed bayonet rock, of very limited extent, and has from ttsn to seventeen fathoms close to it. ' Niiiiii'tl iii'tt'r the Aiucrirun sliip Zi'iioUiu, wliidi Ntiiick ii|iim it nlMmt lf. VnlUvMl lirfiiiuva;anitt (iri>tik t'hiirrh lluiiK v**)8»«|fg«^«'i9:r- S I T K A ALASKA ii'lioi'mS«> in thp W»}i»tt>rt» Tlitrhor. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 119 V" I rn Wlion vosscls are in the eastern elianiiel tliey must keej) at least one third of a inih- south of the ishind, on the north side of the channel, until the }4'(>\'i'rnor'8 house hears west of north by west one-half west, when the island may bo safely apiiroaehed within two hundred yards. In api»r(>aehing the islands l.vin^ off Sitka in thicik weathe •, the ollieers of the eonii)an\ endeavoied to iind the Island of jMoehnati, whieh is from twenty to thirty feet high, rocky, and covered with a thick growth of spruce, whose dark foliage, with the oiacR rocks beneath, brought out in relief by the surf breaking along its front and on the outlying rock, makes it dis(!ernible through the fog when other islands ar<^ invisible. This islet lies between the middle and wi'steru channels, live miles northeast by east half east from Vitskari, and a vessel making it can take either, ami safely run for the antihorage. When the fog is lift- ing, from the coming in of a westc^rly wind, this islaml appears (irst. Abreast of ]\loclinati the western channel is about three-(iuarters of a mile wide, with a large reef, bare at low water, forming the western side; and the luiddle (channel is con- tracted by snidvcu and exposed rocks to a much narrower entrance. The English chart, based upon tl*.' Russian survey of l.SOit, gives a good gen- eral idea of the channels and the an. iiorages, which should only be entered under the guidance of a pilot, or with good local knowledge. The results of the preliminary survey of the two harbors by the United States Coast Survey show that the base liiu' of the original survey was erroneous, and this may ]>ossil)ly explain the announcement on the lOnglish chart that "there are discrepaiicies between this chart and the plan of Sitka (I'lJl.S) which cannot bo adjusted." The harbor of SUha is very contracted, and, in the western anchorages, numerous mooring buoys have been laid down by the Kussian-Ameri<'an ("ompany near the town, although this i)art of the harbor is nari'ow and marked by fhn^o sunken rocks. The easte n harbor receives the greater sweep of the sontheasters, an(> VnlUy Mt. i '":'?'?^ *^j»i i" ' '^••~^' : ■;??SW.'«!iSS!.9||'i Feet. 4.1 1.0 — 0.fl .me) lit -J.-liHI H Ml •.' Ill I< '■ ■•^:-v;*i»- J»¥ S » »y> S I r K A ALASKA Frtiiri Aleiit.Hki l.slaiiii in Kiistoi':k ('Inn .Ml -.•Hill H. lii'xoK l'liui'''l< lli'.iil» Vnllny Ml. iriMiH S I r K A ALASKA It'Pn Uiii'lHuvtiri'i'U riiiiiM-h lit'iii-iiin X-r("E.it rin'l "" - I'lTny'ii'Wiirr.-.ii;/.. 'Tii'rr-"'i""iiiiiiff. ATiASKA COAST PILOT. 121 Tilt' interval is to bo added to tlio tinio of the moon's meridian ))assa;;'e for tlio date required, to give the time of liijjh or low water. Tlie time of the moon's ui)iMM" meridian passage is given in the Almanac^ and the timt* of its lower meri- dian jiassage is the middle between trto sueeessive upper passages. The heights are given in feet and tenths, and show the rise above the level of the aveiage of the lowest low waters, to wJiieh level the soundings on the chart are given. Sjiring tUles. — At the full and change of the moon the liigli waters will bo one and one-tenth feet higher than the above, and the low water one and one- tenth foot lower. Xeup tides. — At the moon's first and last «piarters' the high waters will be one and one-tenth feet lower, and the low waters will not fall as low as one and one- tenth feet. Sitka was the in'ineijml establishment of tlie Hussian-American Comimny, and comprises about one hundred and twenty good block houses, storehouses, bar- racks, workshops, saw-mills, churches, hospital, and the governor's head(piartcrs. On January 1, 18(i7, it contained nine hundred and sixty-eight inhabitants, of which three hundred and forty-nine are Hussians, and the remainder (-reolcs or half-breeds aiul Aleutians. Outsider tlu^ stockade are forty larger Indian liouses, facing the westeri. harbor, and occupied by not less than one thousand Koloslics dunng the winter. The site of the town is cramped, and it is a mere (picstion of tinjc and expansion when these Indian louses will be renu)ved. For years the Hussians have had about a dozen guns directed along the i'.wv. of the Kolosiiian village. It would be useless to attempt to describe the labyrinth of channels ami islets passing iu everj- direction, like tentacula, from the sound, yet a few items may not bo without interest. About nine miles south thrco-iiuartcrs oast from Sitka (but tliirtocu miles by the usual courses) are tlu^ rapids, conncHiting tlu; waters of Dec?!) Lake with the southeast part of Oserski Bay. At those rai)ids, having a fall of uiuo feet, a scries of fish woirs have been constructed by the Itussian (Company in a very sultstantial manner, from shore to shore, and great quantities of salmon arc caugiit and cured. In 1807, besides furuisliing Sitka, the produce was live iiuiulrcd and twenty bar- rels, and there is ample opportunity to increase this (latch livolbld. A good passage exists between the north part of the sound and the eastern end of Salisbury Sound, which enters from the Gulf of Alaska, in latitudi! ."»,S^ L'O', and continues tiirough IVril Straits to Chatham Straits. Tlie Coast Survey has made several preliminary examinations through these waters, and cliang(!y the currents in light airs. A v«'ssel onee inside Sitka Souiul and unable to reaeh the anchorage, on account of heavy southeast weather, will find two small bays and anchorage about t<'n miles to the north-northeast of Low Point, and north of Vitskari. The first is I'lirt Kristor (CroHHj in (Jross I5ay, and is reached by following the western shore of the sound about a mile distant, gradually ajtproaching it to within half a mile, alioul seven miles from Low Point, wlu'u Rocky Point will be on the west, and (inide Island, high and wooded but erroneously marked as a rock awash on Admiral- ty Cliart No. U'S.'ST, will bear east; and land to the west of north will apparently ch)SO all progress. This is the entrance to Cross Bay, and Pent Ivrestov lies to the west- ward of lh(^ lirsl [>oiiit on th(! west. This point lies about southwest by south from the ojiposite point of the port, and a channel leads along the western side of it to a large s(»und no.'thward. Eound tlu^ southwestern ])oint pretty dose and run wt'stward iialf a mile, when anchorage may be had in ten fathoms. This part of the jiort is half a mile wide, north and south, dimiiushes to a very narrow chainiel, with six fathoms, in three-quarters of a mile, and then opens through a very narrow, crooked channel to the. northward. Tebenkotf gives a small plan of this port in his chart. The other bay is wide open to the eastward, and its south point lies one mile to the novvh-northeast, with a rock one-third of a mile south of the point, in the middle of the bay lies a small woody island. It may be, jiasscd on cither baud and anchorage found in the head of the bsiy in twenty fathoms. Half a mile east of this island is a rock showing ten feet above high water, but marked sunken on Admiralty Chart No. U;5;{7. Jn a southeaster there is a large swell coming into the bay. In 1787 Dixon anchored in eight fathoms, sandy bottom, one mile north of Otmeloi or Shoals I'oint, which he named AVhite's Point, being somewhat pro- tected by a rocky reef off the point. Close on the eastern face of the reef he gives soundings in sixteen fathoms; from this anehorigo Mount Edgecumbe bore west by south (compass.) lie determined the latitude 57° 03' ; it is in 57° 01'.5, Sitka Sound was fairly represented by Vancouver, who named it Norfolk Sound in 1704, but he did not enter it. La Perouse had very vaguely indicated the existence of a. bay here, but its head was obscured by a fog. He applied no name to it. In 1775 Quadra named it the IJay of Terrors, and named the north jioint Cape Engaimo. Tebenkotf describes its appearance as terrible in heavy southeast weather; but it is neither bettor nor worse than any other large, open sound. ST. joun's bay. Near the northern end of the Neva Strait, seventeen miles from Sitka by the straits, this harbor opens to the westward, and directly towards Salisbury Sound, of which it may really be considered the termination. ALA8KA COAST riI/)T. 12:j TliP bny is aluHit ii mili' iiiul a half dooj) towards the «'ast-Ho\ttIit'ast, and lialf u mile wide; it lias ^^dod aiuihora;;*' near tlic head in sixteen fathoms of water. The shores are hold and rise to mountains eov(>red with 8i»ruee to tiie water's c'd;;i'. The sticam at the head eonu-s into tlu> hn.v thronyli a nairow low valley between hi;jh mountains. We anchored here in October 1807, and discovered specimens of jjood <'oal. From Cape Edgecunibe the ffoneral trend of the coast to Cape Phipps, in lati- tude 5!P .'{(>', lonf;itnde 1.'$!)° 4L", forming the s4 ALASKA COAST IMIiOT. Tlit'Nc iiioiiiitaiiis arc covcied with wood liull'-way iip, l)iit haio and rocky at their .siiiniiiits. Tlic strait runs directly east flvc mih's, coiitractiii;j at its narrowest place to one mile l»etwccii the rocks otV the north and sonth shores. It opens into IMshintj Hay anil I'eril Straits at the northeast, and into FFayward* Strait an had tli<>i'(> in ten t'atluiins. It is nscd by ilu- Itiissian ves- sels. On tlie ivt st shore two lai'fjo Imyn ojion, the (list diroetly opposite the north- west point of Fish Hay, otV which lie some islets that must lie iel't to the east- Mai'd. Two miles northeastward of (his island, another lies close nnder tho eastern shore. Anehorajje is liad Itelween the sonlh side of this island and the 8horo in thirteen fathoms. It is used by the Uiissian vessels. The navipition of this strait, nutil bettor known, should be nnule under the direction of a pilot, and at or near slackwati'r low-tide, as there are si'veral narrow places wliere the cur- rents and counter-currents are very strong' and dan};ei'ons to a side wheel steamer. From the nortliern side of Peril Strait, about midway throujfh, an unex jdored jiassafre is reported to exist, leading; northward to the south shores of Cross Honnd in Icy Strain Near the eastern entrance of Peril Strait, on the northern shore, there is a small bay formed on the west side of a ]»oint Jnttinjj out nearly half a mile, it is about five miles west of the northeastern entranee, is named Lindenber}; Jlay, and is used by the Russian vessels. In lS(i7 a e(uiple of small, rude lionses were on the shore behind the sandy beach. The country behind is very lii^h and cov- ered with tiinl)er. From the north point of Salisbury Strait to Cajie Edward, in latitude .')7'' .'!!)', louffitmh' l.'5(io 14/^ ti,o general trend of the coast is mnlh UP west, and the dis- tan(!e twenty-ftmr u)iles, with a slightly retreating shore of bold clills wooded to their edge, and innumerable rocks. KIIAZ BAY. Six miles northward of S.alisbnry Strait, TebenkofT has a bay called Klia/, entering tlie laml about three miles "astward, but has rocks nuirked in tho entrance. We find no details or inforimition about it. From Salisbury Sound to ley Strait tho coast is borderc^d by low wooded islands, anu)ng whicli, Portlock says, tliere ai)iiear several ])laces of good shelter. The mountains rising almost directly from the coast are quite high and irregular, some w ell wooded and others quite bare. CAPE EDWAKD. Between Kliaz Bay and this ''ai>e the bold coast line recedes a few miles, but the general direction is maintained by the great uund)er of outlying islands; to this bend of the shore Tebenkoff has given the designation P>ay of Islands. Vancouver says that off Cai)e Edward lies a cluster of snnill islets and rocks. Tebenkoff has the islets and rocks, and lays the cape down as broad, extending two miles north and south, bold, high, and rocky. Seven miles to the north-northwest of the cape, and almost on the line to T 12(5 ALASKA COAST TILOT. Cross Ciipc, T('l)(Milvf)fr lays down some rocks or islets three miles off the const and two I lilcs f'rotii the neiirest islets. The .'.oiith point of the capo is placed in latitude 58° ."59', and longitude 13G0 14'. From Cape Kdwanl to Cape Spencer, in latitude 58^, longitude ^W° :W form- ing the uorlhwest noint of the entrance to fiiy Strait, the {-eneial direction of the coast is north 10- west, and the distance thirty-foiu- miles, passing tangent t« Cape Cross, in latitude 57° 50'. ILINA HARBOR. This is a siniill contracted bay, of which we find a luthlished chart by the ])ilot Ilina, 'tut without date. It is not iiid'cated on Tebenkoff', but or Miother Itiissian chart its entrance is laid down about two miles east-northeast of the island, lying sex en miles north-northwest of Cape Edward. From its sjnallness, and being open to the south, it Avould appear of no importance. Ilina places its douthciist point of entrance in latitude 07° 4(5', longitude 130° IC, with islets lying three-cpiarters of a mile south of it. The northwest i»oint of entrance lies northwest by north half a mile Irom the s has one line of soundings from twelve fathoms at the approaches, and ruuii'iig close along the eastern shore, with eight Cathoms, between it and the iirst small islet inside the point, over a hottom of mud, sand, and muscle shells. His anchorage is in the northeast part of the bay, in eight I'athonis, but an islet on (he western shore lias a sunken rock to the northeast. A narrow arm of the bay continu»>s north-northeast, with ten fathoms at tlie entran(!e. In the shore an intricacy of small oluunels in the northeast is marked by Koloshian habitations. A i|uartcr of a mile east of the southeast point of entrance is marked the vreck of a tender. roRTLOCK IIARBOK.* This large day has been fully desci-ibed by I'ortloek, but his sketch of it is mere y a rough estimate, and he makes no mention of d«'termiiiiiig its latitu«le, althoi'jjh lis map i)laces his anchorage inside the north entrance in latitudi^ 57*^ 4!)', and \'ancouver says that about six miles lun-th of Cape Edward the harbor that ajtpeared of easiei't access wiis considered Portlock Harbor, in hititude 'u^ 44', but the weather was thick, foggy, and rainy, and the shores not well seen. I'oitlocK says: "On drawing near the onening, and about two miles from the shore to the northwest of it, we had tw'enty to twenty-tive fathoms of water over a muddy Itottom, and just in the entrance were some high, barren rocks." The following is the best description that can be drawn from I'orth.ck's sketch and text: The o]tciiing to Portlock Harbor lies between two points lying northwest and southeast Ironi each other and distant from tiiree to four miles * Ntinied by Portlock 1787. ALASKA COAST IMLOT. 127 ai)ait. Tliis ontriiiico is, lio\vov«'r, divided into tliroo i)assiiy;os by two larj;t>, I)liilV, wooded islands iyin^- directly botwi't'ii tiic ))()iiits. Tlii' southeast isliuid icfeivcd file iianic of lloj^aii, idd that to th« northwest, Hill.* The south passage is aiiout half a niih^ \vi(h', with bold slu)res and twenty fathoms of water. The nii»hlle pas- safjc is a mil" wide at tlu' outer piut, but at the inner jtart is eonlracted to half a mile, with ten fatlioais of water, b^ two bare islets and rocks from the southeast point of Hill Island. The northern passage is narrow, and no soundiiifjs aro given. Rocks lie oft' the southeast point of the bay, off the south point of Ilogiiu Island, and bare, rocky islets and rocks oil" the northwest point of llo;;an Island. The south side of Hill Island is "low land, forniiuf:; itself into several small bays, from whose points are breakeis at no great distance," with bold rocks extending nearly half a mile otV the southeast \mnt. The deepest water in the middle passage between Hill and Tlogan Islands is l(>;'iy s'x fathoms over rocky bottom; the length of this i)assage, is about a mile; has boltl, rocky shores, and the course through it is lu-arly northeast Ity east. From the skelv i, the best course in would be to steer erst-northeast for a wooded islet inside, and lying half a mile north-northeast from the north ](oint and islet off Hoj;au Island; between this wooded islet and Ilogan Island a dciilli of thirty- two fa'.lioms is given. The southeast passage is about a mii;> in length. Inunediately upon passing the bold rocks otV the southeast i)oint of Hill Island, "le water deepens very <(uickly to tiiirty and forty fathoms, and a most spaci»)us anil excellent harbor oi>ens to view, trending to tin; northwest an.d south- east, and running deep into tlu; northwanl, with a number of small islands scat- tered about. IJinming np towards the northwest part of the liarboi', and after passing the small island close to tin; north side of the noitlieast i)oint of Hill Island, I'ortlock anchored in thirty-one fathoms of water, muddy bottcnn ; lln> rocks ofV the east part of Hill Island being Just shut in by the small island, and bearing south three or four miles. (According to ihe sketch they bore al)out south-southeast, distant on mile,) The country adjacci ( to Portloc'k Harljor abounds with white cedar, which was cut and sawed intu shcathing-boards. This is evidently the yellow cedar of Alaska. Tebeidvot^'s chart gives no idea of a deep bay in this locality, although he has the name ill latitude 57° 4.V, Qouhiintj llarJior. — The entrance to this harbor is nearly abreast of the north entrance to Portlock Harbor and about one a.,d a half mile north of his anchor- age in the latter. It is represented as nearly Half a mile wide, but nearly closed liy a wooded island running close t<» the southwest point of the iieninsuhi between Gou'ding and Portlock Ilarbiu's, with six fadioms in the ehann<'I aroiinil the west end of the island. Tin- harbcn- runs about four or live miles to (he northeast, with a wiilth ot alii'iit a mile, and two broad arms running to the northwest. It has ninnerims snndl wooded islets in it, and a depth of six fathoms nmy be carried Niim«il lifter Portlook'it iU48iMt.Hut triulur. 128 ALASKA COAST PILOT. most ()(■ tlic way np. The sketcli is very evidently an eye sketcli, and tlie view- very crnde and erroneons, for it represiMits ])a]ni trees growing: on tlie shores. In hititnde ~)H° T)!' I'ortloelc lias a. bay three niilos deep east-northeast, with two islets oil' the northwest point, and others a mile or two sonth of the sontli- east pe«int. POINT BINGHAM. This roeky headland, in latitnde o8o 03', longitnde ^30o 27', forms the south- west point of the entrance to ley Strait, and lies south 1(P enst, eleven miles from (Jape Si)eneer. Between it and Oape Edwar.l the coast is bold and rocky, guarded by islands, indented by two bays three or four miles deej), and by a broad entrance to I<'y Strait, ten miles south of Point IJingliam and six miles south of Cape Cross. The bays were judged by Portlock to art'ord good shelter, but the vast num- ber of wooded and bare islauds and rock that extend to the distance of three or four miles from the shore, will render entering such harbors unpleasant and haz- ardous until better known and described. CfDs.s ('(ipc, of Cook, lies in latitucU^ ^TOoT', six miles south of I'oint IJingham, and is in reality the wt stern point of Jacob or Khaz Lsland, around the south and east faces of which u strait one mile wide connects Icy Strait with the ocean near Portlock Harbor. At the southeast part of the cape a bay one mile wide aiul three deep is laid down by Tebenkoft' in an east-northeast direction. Cook says the soiit'ieast ])oint of Cross Sound is a high promontory which was naraed t!ross Cape. J'oint Bingham was named by Vancouver in 1701: ; by the Itussians it is sometimes called Cape Takhanis. The entraiu'c is eleven miles wide between Cape Spencer on the north and Point Bingham (m the south, bearing south HP east from the former. N'aiicouver describes Cape Spencer as a conspicuous, high, blulf promontory, oil" which (^vtend some rocks to the distance of a mile and a half It is long ami terminates in a narrow point, with the outer-shore stretching nearly northwest, and the inner shore north. The cape is placed in latitude 58° 13'.4, longitude VMP 31', by Telienkod'. Point Bingham is not described, but its rounding point is a rocky blulV with small islets along its face, and the height decreasing eastward. The point is placed in latitude 58^03', longitiule 130° 27'.5, according to Tebenkolf. The entrance to this strait is wide, open, and unobstriu'ted by rock, shoal, or island. This api)ears to be the ease for t(!n miles within the heads, and Vancouver says tliat, if it possesses any navigable objection, it is the unfathomable depth of water which everywhere exists except very near the shores, along which in many places are detached loeks, lyii-'g, however, out of the way of navigation, and sulli- ciently cons]>i('uous to be. avoided. InsiiU' of Cape Spencer the strait expands into a great bay running titleen miles north northwest, and from ten to four miles wide. Six miles inside of Point llingham a passage two miles wide opens to the Bouth-sontheast ami runs ten miles in that direction, when it turns iibruptly to ALASKA COAST PILOT. 129 tlio west-southwest, and reacLos the ocean in ahout six or ei};ht iiiiU's, in hititudo 57° 53', four miles southwest of Cape Cross, where PorthK-k noted the "al)))ear- ance of a harbtn" in 1786. This passage lias been named Little Cross Strait by the United States Coast Survey. Cross Sound has been named ley Strait by the lliissians, and appears to well deserve the apiu'llatioii. Tebenkotf says that ice is found there all the year, impeding navij-ation ; and in July an A August Vancouver's ollieers found part of the passage almost elosed with the ice. l-'requently the masses of ice are detached from the face of the glaciers, covered witli gravel and earth, and these drifting in the sound are often taken for rocks awash. Vancouver mistook tiiem and fonntl 110 soundings with eighty to ninety fathoms. Upon the Kiissiii , chart are nnirked the positions of the dilferent glaciers that come down from the terminal sjuir of the IMount Julias and Fairweather range to the heads of the bays opening upon the luuth shore of the strait. The general direction of the strait is about northeast by east (jnarter east for thirty miles, then southeast by east for twenty-four miles to Chatham Strait. C'aiK' Spencer is sometimes c;dled Cape Tsianikhta. Tin; first anchoi'age insider the sound is on the south shurc, about lour or five miles eastward of I'oint JJing- hain, and one mile west of the ncutli entrance of Little Cross Strait. It is evi- dently very contract md no soundings are laid down, althongli tlie track of the trading vessels is laid III '«u to it. POUT ALrnoui'. Vancouver has given a sketch of liiis l»ay, the entrance to which is sit iialcd on the south shore of ley Strait, ten or eleven miles ■lortheast (piarter north from Point P.inghaiii, and ten railes east b\ south from Cape Spen(;er. The entrance to tlu; bay, opening from the sound, lies between two islands north and south of ea(rh otiuu', and is bcu'densd l)y a nuinl)crof rocks and islets. It ims nine fathoms of water in it, over rocky bottom, with thirtv and forty fathoms around this ledge. "The channel is clear, free from dangei'. .nd is one and a (fuarter mile in width, with a tolerably snug cove, just withii iiie entrance iind off the south face of the western jtart of the island, that forms the north point of entiaiu-e." Here Vancouver ancliored in fourteen fathoms, a cable's length fnnu siiore. Tebenkoft" puts the anchimige down in ten fatliouis, sandy bottom, "Tins high narrow island affords great protection to the bay, which is two and a hull' miles wide just inside. Nearly in the middle of the bay, and one league s(uifheast by south from the anchorage, are sonu' detached rocks. Th(> island forming the south point of entranc(! is altout two miles long, and stretches to the south-soulheast toward Point Lucau, from \\\\'uh it is sei)arated one inile, but the space is filled with numerous islets." "At Point Lucau, wliich is situated IVoia the anclioiage south li.'P east four and a half miles, the wiiicer, Vancouver says the coast is com- posed of a steep, Avoody shore, much indented with coves or bays, of a hilly, uneven surface, with some rocks and rocky islets scattered along it ab'>ut a mile distant. icv CArE. Fifteen miles northwest from Cape Sjx'ncer is Tcy Cai)o, having a small open bay on the eastern side, making in a mile or two northward, and dislingnished by having the first sea-coast glacier at the northeast side of it. A small island lies well up in the bay, and Tebenkoff has one nearly a mile south of the cape. La Perouse indie.ites this bay on his ma]); but hence southward to (^apo Edgecumbe his shore and positions are very erroneous. The shores to the north- west and southeast arc bold and I'ocky and wooded. l.ITUYA n/V. Thirty-two I'.ules northwest from Cape Spencer is the narrow and dangerous ojjening to this ii„y, — hich has a certain im])ortanee as being tlie oidy place which La Perouse examim.. in detail, and whieji lie pronounced the most extraordinary place in the world, and wJiere he lost two boats and twenty-three men of his expedition. Seven miles west of the entrance he found soundings in thirty two fathoms muddy bottom. This bay ]U'esents the aitju-arance of a great llssiire in the elevated plateau of this reach of the coast, about a mile wide at the entiance ami two miles inside, running six oi- se\-en miles inland north 10° east, and then ojuMt- ing into twt) large arms at right angles to the former course. The eastern arm is one mih^ wide, and fcmr miles long south T.'P east; the western one about the same width, four miles long north oL'^ west, with soundings iu both indicating great lupth, but the eastern arm has less depth. The two points of the entrance from the ocean lie only five-eighths of a mile from each other U])on the beaiiny north (iri-^ west; but the available passsage is contracted by a great rocky reef stretching nearly five-eighths of a mile south l(P cast from the western point, and nearly on a line with II uler ro, is noith bj' west, keeping close to the eastern end of the western reef, and running close along its eastern facc^ with Hood curi'ent to a small cove one mile from the passage, close under the western rocky point, where the best anchorage is found in five and six fathoms, over sandy bottom, where the point will bear east of south. From this cove a trail lea, losing the wind after entering, and having a strong ebb current, anchored otf this bight, and found six fathoms, over sandy bottom, where the entrance bore south-southeast. It is prudent to enter only near slack-water, low tide, with a sailing vessel ; or slack-water at either tide with steamer. An- chorage may iilso be had under the western shore, a mile and a half directly north from the entrance, and where the bay begins to expand, with dei>th of \\ .ter fifti'cn fathoms, over muddy bottom, a quarter of a mile from shore, witli an Iii'lian house at the mouth of a stream Iteariiig west-southwest. La Perouse says that at full and change it is high water at 17/. OOw., and the tide at (U-notaph Island rises seven and a half feet. The geographical position of the Oorinorant IJock, reduced from D'Agclet's position on Cenotaph Island, is latitude 58° 30' [J(>", longitude, by Lii»inski l.'57° 1(5'; that by D'Agelct was lVu° 27'. The magnetic variation in 178() was liS° east; and Lipiiiski made it 1'.")° east in ISlMi. In Shiltz's report to IJaranotf, (.July 170(i,) he says: "The entrance to Lituya Uaj* is most dangerous; tlie strong currents, rushing over hidden rocks, occasion rapids which almost entirely coiu^eal the channel, and thus add to the danger. In fair weather my vessel was being towed in, when the water before me ai)peared one and a half fathoms higher than in the bay, and wo shot the descent with irresistil)l(' speed and great danger. Once inside, all immediate danger ceased. The bay is large and lilU'd with rocks and sands; no wood at the immediate entrance, and no i)osition tit for a settlement. The bay is destitute of fish, except lialii)nl, which abound only in spring and summer. In the winter the bay abounds in sea lidus, (i>hoca jiibhom ritidiiiaj is v«'ry seldom seen."' ALASKA COAST PI LOT. i:v,] Other navigators j)roii<)nii('c the cntnuico (laiijLjoroiis. Tho shores a sliort Oistaiioe. iiisi»U^ tlie entrance are described as ''eoinposcd t>f cnornions clitl's t'i;;ht and nine hnndred feet high, overhan}j;ing f;itliondess waters ; the fjlacicr ice, forced from tho nionntain pn-jics, covers the surface of the water all the year ronnd. No sound but the fall of >'reat masses of ice disturbs the silence of this terribly };rand but {gloomy j,'orge." There is no doubt of Mio entrance being dangcnms at certain stages of the tide; but the fact of La P'irouse's boats examining the imssage for two hours; of the Indians constantly eidering and leaving it, "whole villages at e\ery tide," prove that it may be entered with safety; and even when two of La IVrousc's boats were lost, the jolly-boat pi.^'.sed through the breakers stern first without damage. With a sailing vessel the gn at trouble arises from the calms that ])rcvail inside. La Perouse was five days moving his vessel a couple of miles. For about a mile and a half inside the entrance the width is only three- quarters of a mile, when it expands by the retreat of the eastern shore to a mile and a. half in T^idth, and Cenotaph Inland* lies neaily in the middle, about two and three-quarter miles from the entraiu'c , This island, covered with wood, lies northwest half west and southeast haL' east, three-quarters of a mile long and over a quarter broad. There is a hill rt each eiul ; rocky sh<'-.> to the east and low at the west, with a slightly curved bight on the southwest face, which is rocky, but bordered by sand beach. Tin: west end is out three-eighths of a mili^ from the west shore of the bay, '..ith thirty-five fathoms wat^° ;$8 .5, longitude L'57o 11 '.."», and only eight miles from the coast. Abcmt two or three miles north-northwest of Lituya l>ay is the mouth of a stream with a lagoon at its mouth, and having its head in a mountain lake, to which the salmon ascend in great numbers at the i)roi)er season. A large Indian fishery was formerly estab- lished here, and a road leads along the rocky coast to Lituya Bay. CAl'E FAlUWKATnER. From Lituya iJay to this cape the distance is twenty-two miles northwest; the immediate shores low and sandy, with a live-mile margin of low ground covered with trees, running a few miles to the foot of the snow range of Mount F'air- weather, and only broken by the lUver Katagini, nine miles from Lituya. It is situated in latitude 'tS^ 5(>'.2 and longitude l.'i7° -kH', according to Ijipinski. Vancouver says: "This cape cannot be considered a very conspicuous l)roinontory; it is nu)st distinguishable when seen from the southward, as the land to the west of it retires a few miles ba;,'k to the northward, and there forms a bend in the coast; it is the nmst consi)icuous point we noticed cas< vard of Cape Pliipps. It is terminated by a low blulf clitF on a sandy beach, near which are a few detached rocks." Seven miles Avest-soutliwest from the cni)p, and with IMount Fairweather nearly in line over it. La Perouse obtained soundings in forty-three fathoms, and thence ten miles southeast by south half south, nearly parallel with the coast, he regularly increased his soundings to sixty-live fathoms. Twenty-nine miles west of Cape Fairweather, and twenty miles broad olf the nearest coast, he places soundings in seventy-three fathoms. Tebenkoff designates this headland as Cape Litnya. A small stream enters the sea about a mile east of the extremity of the cape. • Named by La Pdrouso iu 1786. ALASKA COAST PILOT. i;;.") MOUNT rAiRAAn:ATiii;n. The inagnificcnt ]>oak of ^Moiiiit rairwoathcr* lifliiij;: its otoriially snow- covfi't'd Iicad to an clt'vation of tliirtocu tlioiisaiiil nine liiiiHlicd and t'oity-.six t'cct nbovet tlui ocean, and friMincntlj- visible at a distance, of (tne. Inuidrcd and lifly miles at sea, lies in latitude 58° 57' and lon^-itnde. 137° 27', nine miles from tlio uearest shore, and twelve from Cape Fuirweatlu^r. The natives know (Jrillon and Fairweatlier as the LitAya Poalc. Six miles north of Cai)e Fairweatlier a small stream named the Kakhvefjin enters the ocean. Tebenkolf has a glacier marked upoii it one or two miles inland. CAPE FAIRWEATIIER TO CAPE PHIPPS. The general direction of the coast from Fairweatlier to riiipiis, tlu' south ]>oint of the entrance to IJehring or Yakntat bay, is iiortli 01''^ west, and the dis- tance seventy-one miles. The shore leaves this general direction as much as seven miles, about ten miles north of Fairweatlier Cape, where is the eastern boundary of Dry Bay. Tebeiikotf describes this sketch of coast from the details of the head men of the ]>arties sent to hunt the sea-otter, and says the shore is ii "narrow strip of land, low, level, and covered with wood. Its breaiiroa'ine miles south of the, west point of the bay he ;?ot soundings in forty-flvo fathoms. When otf this bay, Vancouver says, "the nearest shore, distant seven miles, was near a narrow, shallow ojM'iiing into a higoon ;" but he says no siu-h bay or island as (Jook describes exists in this neighborhood. La I'erouso named this Uehring's Itiver. On some llussian maps, the Alsekh is made to break through the Mount St. I'ilias or Yakutat range, and ("ook mentions "this chain of mountains being inter- rupted by a plain of a few leagues extent, beyond which the sight was unlimited, so that there is either a level country or much water l)ehind it ;" and again refers to it when describing ISloiuit St. Elias as "belonging to a ridge of exceedingly high mountains that nniy be reckoned a continuation of the Fairweather range, as they an^ only divi(h'd by the i)hun above mentioned." From Cook's position (about latitude 5iP 01', hmgitude I.'liP lit',) when he saw this break, it would lie up the valley of the Alsekh. When Vancouver was seven miles west by south of tho entrance to Shallow Bay, he suy.s this interruption in the snnmut of these very ele- vated mountains was conspicuous, and looked like a i)lain eomi)oscd of a solid nniss of ice inclining gradually towards the low border; its surface was clean, smooth, and uniform in this depressed i)art of the mountains. Qlnrtyeight miles northwest by west from Cape Fairweather is the o]»ening of two streams by one mouth in about latitude r/jo 14' and longitmle l.'$8o 45'. Each stream has a vdlage upon it from six to twelve miles from their juiu-tion, and the lind>ered land comes close to the ocean shon^ between them. AVestward of these rivers the low country stretches twelve or fifteen miles into the base of the mountains, and is filled with lagoons and marsh in a measure destitute of timber, but part of the shore has a l)elt near its margin. Just west of the mouth of these rivers, Cook, by his bearings, jjlaces IJehring Bay; and Meares anchored in the immediate vicinity in twenty-seven fathoms water and named it Tianua lloads. Here the Indians came in canoes from the shore. From the mast-head Vancouver saw lagoons over the low beach of this coast, and cor.nnunicating with the ocean through breaks in the beach, across which the surf bro\e with nuu'h violence. The range of mountains forming a snow-clad barrier behind the coast hence to Prince William Sound, is saitl by Tebenkoff to attain a general elevation of eight or nine thousand feet, and from all their gorges great glaciers force their irresist- ible way upon the low land. ALASKA COAST PILOT. i:;' nRnnimt bay, or yaki'tat. Ciipc IMiii)i)s. ill liitiliidi' ."ilP ;{;!'.(), InnMiimlc l;',!P IL". luims llif sdiitlimst poiiitof thf ciitnincc to lliis hiiv, l)iit it slmiild lie liorrii- in iiiiiid lli;il this oiiicr Clllii' is cill'.i'il oil tlic I'lissiiill limps tiic OccMIl (';lp(', illld tli;ll tiirv drsii;l|iilc (lie point tlircc mill's nortli\Mii'd iil' it as Cape I'liipps. 'I'lic noilliwrsl poinl nl' tic l>ay is Cape Maiiliy, ill latitude ."iiP l.l', lon;;itinlo I Kt^ (Hi', and licais iioitli IV west t'idiii CaiH' I'liii>ps, distant cij^iilccii milrs. l''i()in ("ape i'liipjis, .Mount St. I-^Iias hears north .">P .'JO' west, distant sixty- two mill's. Vancouver says lliat "ofl' Point Maiihy the water was t'oniid to lie diseoloicd at the distance of tour miles IVoiii shore, w here no hot Ion i could lie lound w ith I he liand lead." 'I'wo miles ninth of ('ai»e Maiilty, on its western side, a stream enters the sea, with a shoal some distance oil' its moiilii. I'iiy;et says, (\'ancon\er, III, p. L'.'i",) ''The danj;ers in Iteliriii;^: May, parlicniaiiy hetween ('ai»e Maiihy and the island forininj;' I'ort Mal^iiave, are considered to he niimeroiis, since se\eral locks weie seen iust sliowlliK' tiieii' heads ahose ter.'' Hill there is no iloiihl thai he mistook for rocks lh)atiii;>' masses of ice coveri'd wilh dirt, such as he afterwards loiind in Icy Strait, 'rehenkolf does not refer to any such dandier, ami il is ipiile j)rohahIe that i'u;;('t mistook for rocks delaehed and lioatiu^i' masses of ice, coM'ied with earth or stones, siicli as he suhseipiently mel wilh in Icy Strait. l)oii;;las says, (Meares, i>. ,)_'(),)" at the entrance to this hay we had fifteen, tell, and eleven fathoms water, over a rocky hottom, hut hijuher uj) no soiindiii;;s could he ohtained with lifly fathoms of line." Hut he jjives !!o distances, hearings, or sketch t:' indicate his position; he merely entered aloiij;' the eastern low shores. A Iviissian sketch of Port MiiljJtravo has soiindiiiju's of live and seven fatlioms half a mile ojV inner ('ajM* I'hipps, and rocks close under the pitiiit. ,\. spur fiom the t'oast >.[: niitaiii ranice {'omcs towards < )cean ('ajie parallel aii^l close to the soiitheastorn slim ■ of the ha\'; its southern cNlreiiiity reaches "within two or three miles of the coast, Viherc the low shore i ■ cut li\ a connected si'ries of lagoons and streams, lead'nj;' ten miles eastsonlhi'ast from Port JNIiil- grave. Cape Pliipps ami the Ocean i'ape a'ci re]nc.-.cnted as low and sandy and wooded il short distance hack, hilt the whole ])oiiit or peninsula is an iiiliicacy of crooked channels, with from one to ioiir fathoms of water in them. I'or li\e miles inside the point the shores are low, cut up hy lagoons, covered with wood, and in many places the shores are (covered with water in the I'aiiiy season. TebiMikolV says that Cape Maiihy or (Ireat Cape is high, and at some places steep and rocky : in his chart he represents it as low and not wooded dose to shore. Vaiicoiucr says the shore west of it is a low, comiiaci holder of plain land, which towards Point Manhy gradually appeared more verdani and Jcitile, and to the eastward of it the country was again well wooded. 18 w i:]8 ALASKA COAST PILOT. I.ii I'croiisc iiiK'liorcil tlircc lc;i;;iirs soul Invest (il'tliis *' Wdodcil point. (Miiiihy.) wliicli hi' Ml tiist liclifviil to Im- ill! isl;iii(I," lint '■siil)sc<|iii'ii(ly I'oiiiitl to lit- joiiu'd io tlir iniiiii 1)\ iitlici Innil still lliitlcr iind witlMiiit trees." The ;.!cneii:l direelion of the liii\ is north .'IP rust lor twenty-fonr miles, diniin- ishin;^ lidni ei]L;lileen to two miles in width, I'onr miles iVom the entrnnce to l>i;j;K(''* S(Hind iit the hend, whieh Tel>enkoll' sii\ s receives *m snndl sireiiin coininj^' from between enormons masses of ice; the monlii of this stream is in latil'ide ."liP ."il', loiij;itude l.'UP L'.">'. Here Malespina, lieinf,' disappointed in lindin;;- tne northwest passa},'e, called the harlxn' 'Assnranee hay,' ami its entrance Ferrero, (.Maldonailo's Christian mune.") Vaneonver has deserihed the hay, and says the pro^^ress of I'n.uet was harri'd at the eiilranee to l)i,u};-es Sound by a solid harrier of iee. 1"lie Itnssian chart represents its shores as masses of ice, and named it I >iseneliantment liay. Inil places an anchoraji'c in its sontheasf part. Teltenkoll's chart represents the north shoic as low and sainly and covered with wood to the base of the nninnlains, from which Hows a stream eiirityiu;;' into the iia\ lifteen miles nertli by east frinn Cape I'hipiis, and liaviii-- an extensive saiid bar at ilsnioulli. In his hydroi;raphic notes he says the siiores i 1' VaUiltat are nnnintaimHrs, woody, and in many places cut by glaciers; Init the climate is better than that of I'rince William Sound. The sonthciist shores are broken and frin^icd by nnnnrons w led islands Willi low shores, and forming;' a H'reat immber of small bays and aiichorajies with very ihicp water in most of theiii. The entrances to these anch(naj;es have stioiifjr cnri'cnts and arc ri'prcsented by tlic Unssians as dillicnlt of access for sailinj-' ves- sels. Inside of Cape Pliip]»s of the Ifussiaiis, and three miles south half east, is a low wiiiMleii )ioiiit called Point Tinner,* with \cry . We were <'VOii in doubt on opeuin.u' the nnaitli ol' the port, whieh ajiiiearcd like a cluster of islands. • ♦ » ]!ore u)) for the auchora;ic, passinj;' from .soundiny:s at sixty fathoms suddenly into thirteen and ei,yht. by kcejiin.i;' too close to Ca|)c Phi|)i)s, ■^ a,u;ain to forty, until reachin,n- the Icd^coll'Caiie Turner, and as suddenly deepen when it exceeded the leiijith of our hand lines. * Anchored clos(> around the low .u'ra\('lly jxiint ol' the island in thirteen fathoms, within three hundred yards of the beach."'* When he weighed aiieiior lu' experienced j^reat ditlicnlty in fjettinj;' it up on account of the t(ai{;h (;lay in which it had hooked. Niiiiicil liv I>i\iiii ill l<~7. iil'tcr liis sriniid ihmIi AI,ASKA COASr I'lI.OT. i:;;! This iiiu'lior i;;.' iinil tlic iidjin'ciil wiitfis cniiiiMisc tlic I'lUt Miilur;n<' ol' \';iii couvcr. Tt'lii'iiktilV ;;iv('s n sketch ol' the isliiiitls and rhiiiiiirls, vVc. 'I'lic lirplh til" \v;it('r lii'l wfcii Ciiiii' I'liipps and ('.\]»' Turner ,s I'ldni lilty In ei;;ht,v ratlhnns, Hinl tlie ennenls nre said to niii with avi-M rapidity. When IJcieher ielY this Itay lie was, during' the nijiht. ilrawn lowai'ds Iheshnre into seven lallidins. w itii liea\y itreakeis insnle him. lie snpposes ilieie nia.\ lie an olT'shoie shoal, Inil his explaiiai ion. ami his I'ailiire Id search lor it,c!eaily indiciilu that he was nearly l(»st on the main shoic In ls();> I'etnitV reported that the nsnal rise and fall of tide in .Inne and Jnly, at ('a[ie Turner, was ei;;ht I'eet ; lint in Octola't' and Novenilier it reached over sixteen feet. He repin'ts the time of hi^h water at lull and chanj;-e, I'.'/i. t.'iw. Cape TnrmT is laid down in latitude ."i'.P .)■•', lon^iilude l.l'.t' .f,")', ami Teltcii- Ivotr.s sketch is cinnpiled I'nnn the examiimtions of I>nli;;in and Kromtchenko; the first of whom laid down the anchora;;e in Vakntat Uay iioilheast of Khantak Islaml, and the latter those on the south side in ISL*,!. In IT'.iri the Itnssians had a post nanu'd New linssia on the la;;(ion inside ('api^ I'hipps, Iml it has heen aliandoned, as also one on the sleep clill' east of llu- anchora;;(^ under t'ajic 'I'nrm'r. Cook did not see or enter this liay, Imt he applied the name Itehiini;' Hay to the harlior he supposed jlehriu}: anchoriil in when he first made the t'oast. I,a I'c'iouse declared no such harlpiU' i'\isted, and yet liy ploltiii;^- his course and coast, line westward from Liti'iNa Hay, his IJaie de .Monte falls exactly upon IJehrin^ Bay. It was entered and examined liy Dixoii, and named Atlmiralty Hay; after- wards Meares was in the t'litrauce; i'li^^ct examined the hay tlioroiij;iily, and \'an- eouver named it Jjehrin,::;' l»ay, as liein,;;' what Cook intended. liy (he llussians it is known as Vakiitat Hay. It is (Inildless the hay in wliicli Hehiin^- lirst anchored when he discovered this part of the coast in 1711. The Indians inhahiliiiji' the coast itetweeii Yakiitat and Tihu.i;at/ I'ays are Utjaleimi' ; they are not nnmeroiis; reckon alioiit thirleeii hiindied souls; have, their own lauyniajie ; li\e alonj;' the risers and subsist on lish and piodncts of the eha.se. KNIOIIT'B IHLANU, The southern point of this island, wliich lies in the northern and eastern part of Heliring Hay, is twenty-one miles east of point Mauley and Ihirlecii miles northwest (»ne-third north IVoni the inner Cajie I'liipits. Half-way between it and tlu! north end of the KhantHnk (l)isli) Island lies an islet iianu'd Kriistoi or Steep Lslaiid. Knight's Island is alioiii two miles lony, .southeast half east and iMU'thwest half west, and about a mile broad. It lii'S aliont half a mile o If the eastern slujre, and admits of a navi;;able 'i.iss.ige all round it; but thei-,) are some ioe!;s lying about a, mile from its west iioint, and otf its northeast sidi> there is an islet between it and the main land. East of the south i>oinl of tin; island the main shore retreats and forms a cove ojieii tow aid.- llie noil hw est wilii 140 ALASKA COAST PILOT. jf(»o(l iiiiflnir.'i^c, Imt no soini(liiijij:s <;ivoii. Tliis is tlio Elcoior Core of I'li^^cl, w)i(» jiliiccd tlic simtii ])oiiit of Kiii;j;lir.^ Island in latitude 5!P 44'. Ti'lH-idioff l)la('('s ii ill latitude, u'»a 4.'!', loiiKitiidi- i;.i'.P ijl'. CAW'; iMiirr.s to oaiu; suckling. Fioiii Tape Pliipiis to Cajie Siicklint;- tlie eourse is north T.S'^ west, and (lie ilislaiHc line hundred and twenty-live miles, with the eo ist eurvins' northward of this line as ;iiiieh as twenty miles, esjieeially at tlie entranee to ley Hay. This sti'elcli of 'Miast is a hiw fringe of lr\'el plain lyiii.u' lietweeii tin' ocean and the foot of the mountain raiijue of ]\Iouut l-llias. The soil is sand and {gravel eoveri'd with spha.unnni, through wliieh j;rows the s]»riu.'e, and from wiiieh hi'"^*^ s])rings. Xo wood, however, exists hetwc mi Cape 'Vfanhy and (.'ape LMou, and \'aneou\'e!' descrilies it as ]»reseutiii^' a naked barren coiin^^ry, composed of ajiparenll.N loose uueonnected stones; jiradually tlie surface assumes a hrownisii api'/caiancc as if from ve.'^elalion. The avera,!4e widili of this skirtin,:;' is only aiioiit three miles; where it reaches the mountains the ravines arc lilh'd with etcviiai ice, and all the. streams (U'tinii' (liron^^h it arc small and sliallow, and come from the j;laciers. I''r(iin the description of this nioiiidain laiiiic, its a]tpidachcs, glaciers. ^:c., tliis 1 border of stony coast line may lie fidiii all the ulacicrs. The follow iny- is tlic description of La I'i'tousc as he ajiproachcd the coast just ow '.sjdeicd simply as a .u;rcaf comliiiicd iiiorain westward of I'oint ALinby. am snou covered a harr<'ii soil, imemhc 1 of w hich he 'iN'cs a n c\tendc(l \ i •:m; of cd liy a siii;;lc tree. Tiie mountains ap- jiearcil to lie at a very little distance from the sea which broke aj;aiiist (he clilVs* of a table Ian 1 three hund.'cd or four hundred ya;-ds hi^h. Thi.; ))]ain, blaciv as il' burned bv tire, was rotallv destitute of verdiin ad\ d lierceivcd lictweeii ii-; and thcele\ated I'lab-au lo\\ lamls cov( red with trees, which we took for islamls. The talile land serves as u base to vast monnfains a few lea^iiies within. Ai)iiroacliin<4' th(> coast he saw to the eastward a low point (Capo IVIanby) covi'red with trees wlii<'h appeared to join tlu> tabic land, and terminate at a short distance from a .se;ond chain of miaintains."' The depth of water clo.se along the shore i.s generally from five to twelve I'alhoms a! iwo cables' length, and at two miles is from thirty to forty fathoms. About twenty-eigli; miles ^(>utliwest of Cajic I'hipps. La I'l'rouse obtained eiglity fatl lOlllS 0\e IIUK ld\ itti'iii : liflecn miles olV llie ■;(, in loii-itude 14(1'^ 1(1', Cook found eighty-two faihoins of watei over muddy bottom ; aine miles oil' tin- coast, in longitude 141- 4(r, \aiieoiivcr I'ound thirty fathoms of wati»r; a league south of I'oint Uiou he found twenty three fathoms ; six miles olV an aluiipt elitl', in longitude 14^'^ 47', he found .orty two fathom.s. with deeper water to tin' west- w in! and an in-sliorc cildc ciirreiit seitiii!;' Iiis vessel in a calm to the eastward. I'ldiii liis |Misitiiiii, mill ilisiiiiire iViiiii till) coust twimty or thirty iiiih's, it wiw iittrrly imiioHxi- I>1'' tin- liini 111 »r. llir lili>;il\il's nil 111" sliiil'r : iiiiil hi.-; si|li.-iiM|ililit iiliM'i Viltiim ill" si'iill;!; thr lllfiM'\ cil- ilij^ low l.iiul |ii'iivt'ii it. ALASKA COAST PILOT, 141 Tlic coast (MimMit is lo llic west wind, panillcl witli tlic sliorc. This liit'l lias 1 t'ci' noticed by all iiavi^'at(»rs. Jlclc-licr states it at one to one miil a lialt' mile },ei' lioiiv when eastwanl of ("ape Snclilin;;". N'anecMncr expeiii'iieed an e\ee|ilion, an in shore eddy current settin;^ to the eastward when six niih s oil' the hlnlV point lyinj; forty miles east of Cape SneklinjH'. This may have been in part owinj;' to the ontlhnv of tiie river Kalielvh, off which he then was. I'oity miles wcst-noi'thwest from Cape I'hipps lies Cape Sitka;;!, a low project- ing point of hind sitnated in lalitnde 5iP 17', accordinji to N'smconver, and lons^i- tnde ]UP il', according' to Li])inski. I'astward of this tla^ shore is dcstilul*' of vegetation, and a ;;reat marsh lies belwei'n the shore rind the foot ol' the nionnt- aius. Westward of it there is no wood alon^' the immediate shore, according to TcbcnkolV, l)nt, there is a belt along the base of the nearest monntains. This point is Poiiit<.' de la iiimssoU^ of La I'eroiise. Thirteen miles northwest by west (piarter west I'rom Sitkagi, lies the Cape Itiou of Nancoincr, and tin- Low (Jape of Tebenkolf. ICV BAY. From (]a])e Phipps to Cai)e IJiou the distance is lifty-one miles, and the, ilircction north t!.')0 west; Cai»e Kioii, in latitude oiio rt'.V, and longitude lll"^ IP, forms the southeast jioint of Icy Hay, which runs n. 'ally iioith for seven miles from tli<' middle (vf its entrani'i Vu coaver uescnltes the poiiii as low, wi'' d. , ilh a small islet detached at a little distam o the Westward of it, and not laid down by TebenkolV, nor seen b\- Pelchci', who says that the point "mast have dis s )lved. The base of the point jiroliably r*'mains, but being free, for s(ane distance, of the greater bergs, it ja'csenteil only a low sanil or inndily sjiil, with ragged, dirty-colored ice, grounded. " The north point is called lc,\ (^ape, and lies north ')'2^ west, distant ; ,'\('n mill's from Ition, which \'ancoiiver describes as a high, abrupt, clitVv point, Ibrm- iiig the west poii* of the bay, bounded by a solid body of ice or frozen snow. The eastern shore is low, and has a large lake Itetween it and Cape Sitkagi. \'ancouver says that from the "easiern side of this bay the coast is form<' point. l)iirher savs the smal iiergs, or soft nmsses of ice forming the elill'v oiilline of t'l ^^ere veined and variegated b\ muddy streaks like marble, and where the.i, had been e\|)osed to the sea were excaxated into arches," &c. Inside the entrance of the bay TebenkolV gives soundings in t\ d lifteeii f.illioms to tlu^ head, where (he depth is IInc fatlion 'I'licre can lie M.i lieli would set the whoh' force of the swc 11 ancinirage la ic with siMdlicrly winds into it. \aiicoiiver gives a view of the western shores of ley Hay, with Mount St. I'llias in the backgi'>nnd. lielclu r says, " the whole of this ba.v.aiid the valley aliove it. was Ibund to be coniiio: ^>I of (apparenllv) snovvice, alioni thirty feet in 142 ALASKA COAHT PILOT. lii'i;;lif iit tlio walci'-clirr, luid ]ii .a\(' ln'cn icnen suoterra- nean disturbance at this ep for .Mould JJ.iker, iu Washington Territory, in lati Hide IS^ 1,")', was in a state of eruption, and shocks W(>re felt along the Aleutian Islands. An eartlnpiake was felt on Agonnik, one of ihi^ Shuniagin group, ami iu Alaska reninsnia I'avlolf Teak ejected ashe: anil Ih The niouhlain is xisiiile over a hundred and lifly miles at sea. ami has been ■tcheil by \'aniou\er and others. t'APF, TAKTAG. This is a low, rounding i>oint of land, twenty-three miles west of Icy Cape, ami is the tirst point along this low shore where outlying rocks have been noted. Thiee miles southwest of the southern extrenuty of the cape, Tebenkolf lays down snidicn rocks with thirty fne fathoms of water outside of them. About lilteen or eighteen miles west by math half north from Cape Lnktag, Vam'ouyer notices an ainnpl (^litl at tlio .seaward extremity of a range of hills that stretch, as it were. peri)endicu!arly to the direction of the base of the nn)un- lains, iidercepting the low border, and terminating at th(> seaside. J'ive or six miles .south of this jioint he found bottom in forty-two fithonis, with an inshore eddy current carrying his vessel eastward in a oidni. * Acrorilinjj tii Ti'tii'iiknll' it is sixtnn tliniiHiinil iiino limiilii'il hiiiI tlilily-ciKlit I'c t liin'i; ( rinviiiKli. Hixti'di (IioumiuhI seven limiilnil iiinl til'ly-fiinr feel ; I{iissinii t'liiiit of ISH. /leviMitiMMi taoiisiinil ei|L;ht liinuliiil iiiiil lil'ly-l'nui- feet ; .Viliiiinilty Cliarl No. 'Jl*',', I'lmrleeii tli .isiiml iiinK Imcdred ami seveiUy feet ; iiiiil l)'\i{elel in I.ii I'eiimse's e\|ieililiiiM. twelvi- lli(ills:iii' six liuiiilreil ioiil seMiUy-lwii feet, Imt the latter iilueeil il eleven iir twi'lve miles iu enm. ALASKA COAST PILOT. u:] Six or oiolil Tiiilcs woslwiivd nt' this clilV is ii siimll opcniii,!; in tlic liciicli, iiidi- catiiiji' tlio niontli or inoutlis of tlu' Kivcr Kiilickli, I'loiii wliicli llic discolored imiddy watci' wns Ibiiiid several miles dislr.iit. OIV tiiis stream Telieiikoll' lias six- teen latlioms, aliout a mile tlistnnt. Sixty-nine miles west from ley Cape is tlie soiitliern extremity of an extensive reel', streteliinii' six miles soutii of a short s))ace of roeky sliore line. It is in lati- tude .")',P .">S', longitude 1 l.'P i:!'. and ealled Laida by Telienkolf. \'aiicoM\fr, wlio Avas close in with the laud at this place, notes a sand jKiiul iyin;; oil' two or tliice miles, and says he juisseil it at the distance of four miles without <;ainin,i;- sonnd- in,i>s, with thirty-live fathoms of line; it extenils in'a southerly direction two miles from the low point of land formin;;' the west point of a hay. aitparently \('ry slioal, judjiing- by the quantity ol' white, muddy water that tlowcd out of it. IJut Tebeu! iff has this shoal or rei'f separated by a narrow channel hetweeu it and the shoi'c, without, however, givinj;- any soundings. Two rocky islets lie olf the blntf ]»oint. and towards the northeast part of the reef. From Cai)e Sm-kliug this reef lies cast seventeen miles, and fi;.m the south ])oint of the reel' making south of Kayes Island, it beais north 7J- east, distant thirty-six mik"'. ISetweeu it and Cajie Suckling the shore line ", -.hoots out in small ])r()jecliug points, witli alternate low clilfy, or white samly beaches, being the fer- mination of a liordcr of low woodland country, extending s(uue distance within until it reaches the foot of the mountains." ■ CAI'K src'Ki.i.NC. Between Kaye Island and the Laiihi reef lies the low point named Cape Suck ling-,* its eastern extremity laid down in latitude ."i!)'^ .T,)', and hmgilude IIP 11'; its western ))oint, within eight miles of the northeast point of Kaiali or Kaye Island, being the point to which \'aneouver a[)p!icd the name. Uelehcr says, *' in one direction I'riim the southward Cape Suckling exhihits on its lower profile the brow, nose, and lips of a man. It i-s a low lock. stretching out I'lom a nuiuutainous isolated ridge, which terminates alxuit three miles from it easterly, where the masses of ice pyramids terminate." N'aueouxcr says, ''the highland of Ca[>e Suckling, when thirty-nine miles si>uth L'.'P west, (compass,) from it," Cook says, '' it is low, but within it is a toh'ral)ly high hill, which is disiointcd fi'om the mountains by low land, so that at a dislance it looks like an island." 1'cbenkotf lays the whole cajie low and Hat for ten or twcKf miles inland, uilh large lagoons northward of it, and also a stream ealled the Little rgaleiilz, empt,\ ing nine miles eastiiortheast from the eastern poiid of the cai)e. Olf the month of that stream lielcher found drift trees of large size, one nu'asuring about two hundred feet in length. The water was whitish for three miles olf shore, with the lilio of .separati(ni from the salt water distinctly marked. Some distance off sliore and to the ea.stward lie found the cnrrotit selling a l!v C.iulv. 1:7^^. 144 ALASKA COAST TILOT. iiiilt' to ii mile mill n liiilf per lioiu' tit tlu- west, no diil't trees then noticed, iuid yet the wliite Wiitcr Wiis tlicii two miles outside liis position. The south t'iiee of ( 'ii)ie SiieUlin;^' is nearly east and west for li\e Mii1(>s, and fi'oiii its eastern limit comnu'nces that lon^i' reach of low, sandy beach, from li\e to ten miles in width, which runs lu'uce hordcrin;;' tli»^ <'oast to Jlinehiiibrook Island, a distance of seventy-li\e miles. This extensive sandy Hat is cut throuH'li liy numerous streams llndin^' their way from the hiw shores to iheocean. .Vt the distance of one or two niil<.'s from its outer ed^i'e tlie depth of water is not more than live to ten fathoms. Small streams fed by lakes and by rivulets from the jilaciers abound alon;^ the shoics ; and one lar;n'e stream, the Atna or t.'o] j)(>r lliver, finds its outlets between Kayak and liincdiinbrook Islands. Olf the cajie, Don;;- las says he had ten to twenty fathoms over a clayey l)ottom. Cape Sacklinj; was named by Cook : the IJussians call it Cape- Sinu'on. KAYK, Ol! KAVAIC ISF.AM). The soulliern I "1 of tlusishind lies ill latitude .VP I'.l', lon.t;ituelclier savs Kayes Ksland, as seen from le east, aii]iears as two islands. Tl outherii ])oint is a l>';;h table rock, free from trees or veu'elation, and of a whitisii hue: the otiier is luoderatelv h land 11 lis re;i'ioii, with three bare peaks, its lower rej;ion lieiii.u' well wooded. Cook says the smilli point is very remarUi le, beiiitia naked vi •levat ed considerablv above the land north of it. There is also an elevated lock lyin;;- olV it, wliicli from some points of \iew appears like a ruined tower. X'ancouvei' calls the .south point a " \('ry conspicuous cai>e," which he named Cajie Ilamond and placed in latitude ."ilio IS.y. Tebeiikolf calls it Cape St. lllias. l)oiij;las j;ives a viewoftlu^ and. til this Iiij;h southern point, and the rock, which he uaiiied Slapli' A'oc/.-, l»earin;i' southwest by south ten miles ilistant. Tebenkoir jiives two views of the island: one with the south peak of tin islaml bearim:' north "S'j east, twehi mil es distant iiid th island bears frcmi north "1° west to north S° east, no distai ice e other when' ■stated. Co ;1\('S three views of it: one witli tlie south jioint bearing; west smitliwest eif;lit or nine leagues di>t.int, with the Steei>le Kock; t!ic island beajinj;' from TO west by west to intrthwest quarter west, distant from nearest part three, and one half Icajiiies; the third with Steeple IJix-k be;M'iii,:^ north two miles and sliowiiiii' iiinnaclc one- third the heijiht of the main rock, on the west side. N'aiicoiiver describes the north shori' of the island as a low tract of land, well wooded, and that it is indented b,\ small coves, with a channel between it ami tho saml\ Hals of ( 'ontroilei's liav. T le west side is ilea uiv straijiht. and runs northward twelve miles. The east- ern face of the island runs from the south ]ioiiit, where it is \cry nai'row, to the mu'tliward ; and in latitude T\\\^ ;!,S', where it is three miles wide, runs eastnorlh east tor six miles. Olf this east»>ni extremity, named .Mesmier i'oiut, lies a rocky ALASKA COAST TILOT. 145 reef and two small isle>';9 atretching two or three miles to tlu> broad sandy lieacU west of Cape Sncklingj but between the islets and this beaeli Paget found a nar- row, intricate channel with four fathoms. Cook landed upon its nortlieast side, and siiys that towards the shore the island has bare sloping dilfs, with a very narrow beach of large pebble-sloiics in- termixed with brownish clayey sand. The clilfs are a bluish rock in a nioldering state. The timber is spruce from two to three feet in diameter, and continues from the top of the cliff half way up the sides of the hills. Sphagnum covered the whole island, lie imincd it after Dr. Kaye. Puget anchored between the northwest point of the island and the south point of Wingham Island in seven fathoms, with Winghani Island bearing from north ir>o east, to west 17° north, by compass, Ki;y.ik fiom south lio west to north .'{SO east, and the nearest shore being a steep green point on Kayak island, south 11° west, one mile distant. A DOUBTFUL ROCK. Tebenkoff gives all that is known of a rock or bank supposed to exist in hiti- tnde oi)o W, longitude llio ^A)', and in the track of vessels bound to I'orl lOtcIies from the position of the Pamplona Itock. "Tradition siiys tluit south of tluj island of Kayak there exists a rock. Mate Zaikolf, of the sliii» Alexunder Kewski, states in his report in 1781, that ' being afraid to run in tlie fog fnrtlier south on account of a baidv sitniited south of Kiiyak, we were compelled to lay to.' Guided by tiiis rennuk, it is located on tlic chart with a doubtl'nl sign, thir- teen miles south of the southern extremity of Kayak Island." Vancouver beat over a great deal of ground in this immediate vicinity with- out encountering anv (hmger. AVINGHAJI ISLAND. Off the northwest point of Kaye Island lies Wingham Island, about two miles distant, with six fathoms of water between them, but a bar of two fatlu>ms con- necting the .soutlieast part of Wingham witli the nortli shores of Kayak. Wing- ham Island is four miles long north and south, by two miles wide, Otf its north point are laid down some rocks, but on its eastern side, reached by j)assing its north end from tius west througii a narrow dianncl iind cloint of the island is placed in latitude ~>')° 1'.'!' and longitude 14GO ;{l' l)y Xetzretof, with the reef four mih's south of it. Oil the west side is a roek situated southwest three miles fi'oin the northern point of the island, and north-northwest of the jdace used for anchoring, where a snniU cove exists with thirteen fathom,-; of water over a giavelly bottom. F"om tlui north point i)f the island V;\[h' Clear bears north 71° west forty- niiu' mill's; Ca]>e Ilinchinbroolc m)rth 11° west forty-seven miles; Cape Ilamoml north .^(P east twenty-three miles. Thirty-two miles south IP west from the sontli [)()int of the island I'ortlock gives a sounding in ninety-six fathoms, over nuiddy bottom. The surface of the island is comparatively low, (piite level, and destitntc of trees: the shores are craj Xy, especially on the wes st side of the island, south of the aiu'horage. A few huts are scattered on the shore near the anchorage, and serve as a shelter foi' the natives temporarily sojourning here for the purpose of collecting sea-wei'ds and hunting seals. Several small lakes, places of refuge for birds of passage, are found along the eastern shore. In liik) thoic exists a hniik wliicli tlio ('hiijjiifli iiiitivcs assiiic lis alxmiids in sea-ottor, wliicli rt'sort liciv for brcodiii^." Tlio t'xistcnco of this baiilc was douhti'd for a long time; however, in 1842, Mate Lin- (Iciibcifi, of the Russian-Aniei'iean Conii)an,v, saw it, but liaving an overcast sky lie (U'teiinined its ])osition approximately from Kutchek J5ay, and obtained lati- tude r»!)o It' and longitude 14,'jo 54'. PA5IPL0NA ROCKS. Many doubts have been expressed about the cxistenee of these roeks, and especially as to their being visible. Captain Bryant, who was whaling her<^ for some years, says there is a submarine range in the vicinity of tl.e position usually assigned to it, but this can hardly be the case if they are the resort of the sea- otter, as will be showu to be the case. Tcbenkotf says: "Jn the parallel of this Dry Bay (latitude 59° 03', and ajtproximatc longitude 14-'° 40') there exists a rock discoxcred in 177!l by a Span- iard, Caiitain Artciga, which he called Kix-k Pamplona. In 17!>4 3Iate Talin, in the ship Orel, (Eagle,) saw it and named it after his vessel, but did not detcrmiiio its position." Tlu' navigators of the llu'- !an-American Conipanj' are divided in opinion about it, but agree that one r their nui!i!»er rep(»rts seeing it as a three-pointed rock ; another intbrms us that he sailed over the longitude laid down by Tcben- koff and did not sec it, although the day was clear and a man alod on the look- out. On various charts the position ranges three miles in latitude, and thirty min- utes of arc in longitu«le. In August l.SOT, the United States revenue steamer Lincoln intended to search for it, and when about twenty miles south 00° cast of its su)>posed position hove to and sounded with one hundred and eighty fathoms of line, but found no bottom. She driltcd to the ascribed latitude al)out three o'clock in the moi'iiing, but a dozen miles to the eastward, then steered a c(mrse that passed four miles north of its ascribed position, at (ive o'clock a. in., with a clear horizon. At seven and three-cpiarters o'clock a. m., in latitude 5!)° 12', and longitude 143° ()."»', no soundings could be had with one hundred and eighty fathoms of line. Xo other ctl'orts were made to lind it, although the noise of birds fre(iuenting land had been heard during the early morning. Vancouver's account of this rock is as follows: George Portlofl' informed lis that a very dangerous rocky shoal, about fitteen miles in length, lies by compass in a direction south l>y west sixty-three miles from a place called by them lA(la Unala. This ]Mr. Tiiget conceived to be near the point that had been named Point Itiou, the eastern cape of the entrance to Icy Bay. Portlotl' himself had been on this shoal, taking sea-otters, and stated that the lirst discovery of it was owing to a Uussian galli(»t having had the misfortune some years before to be wieckcd ui)on it ; two of the crew were drowned, but the rest escaped in tlu-ir ALASKA COAST PILOT. 149 boats, Since tliat period an annual vinit lias been made to it for the pui'iiose of kiilinj;' sea-otters, which arc there met with ; and as it f,'enerall.v proves advan- tageous, J'ortlott" meant to stop there on his return, "rroiu the Spaniards, alsd, I. afterwards beeanu' ae(|uainted that a very dangerous roek e.\ist«'(l in this neigii- borhood, the situition of whieli they iiad taken great pains to ascertain, and had found it to be south -tl'^ east from Cajte S'M'kling at the distance of .>(» miles, ami which was called by them Kocii i'ami)lona; when this was delineated on our charts it api)eared to lie in the direction south 77° east, distaid eight miles from the rocky shoal described by Portloff ; hence it may be inferred tliat Poitloff and the Spaniards intended the same shoal, although it is' not stated by the latter to be 80 extensive as by the former. It Is without doubt dangerously situated tor the navigation of this coast." • ♦ * The circumstantial evidence appears too strong to doubt tho existence of this roek. ATNA OR COrPEU RIVEU. From Cape Hey or Kanak, in latitude C(P 1.7, longitude 114'^ 50', the coast runs west by north half north for thirteen miles to the eastern mouth of *he Copj)er, with Cape ^Martin or Kikhtak {Aut/l ice Muml) lying about lialf way, ami on the same course. This mouth of the river is situated in latitude (10° 17', longi- tude 14r>° 20', according to Tebenkoff. Thence the coast runs nurtliwest to the broad mouth of the sanu- stream, i)assing several smaller mouths of the river before reaching it. Along this wooded coast lies the broad sand beach or Hat which boiuuls the shore for a width of five or six miles. The principal mouth is a wide, shoal bay, opening upon the broad, low delta, and extending in a general dire(;tion north-noitheast to the great bend in latitiule (!(|o 4,•> to the south-southeast for twenty-three nules parallel to and about tliree miles fnim the ocean shore, around the spur from the nujuntain chain to an island wheic the two i)rincipal streams divide, at a distance of six miles from the mouth nf the eastern one. The whole of the low delta formation is attrilnited to tlie debris brought down by the Co])per Ifiver. Near the edge of the great flat, three miles south of Cajx' AVhitsed and four miles east of Point Bentinck, lie two islands, and near the eastern one the main body of water of the Coi)i)er Kiver enters the ocean. These islands are <;alled tho Nik-khtykhat; olf them soundings of oidy five and seven fathoms are laid down a mile and a half from this flat. Xagaief went through tiie sliallow channels of this great Hat with his bidarkas (skin canoes) from Kaiak Island to Khtagatiouk or Kinchinbrook Island. The whole delta of the river, thirty miles long l>y four or five wide, is overgrown with willow. Inside the i)riucii)al mouth, called Aid by the natives, Tebenkoff says there is a snudl rocky island* on<' mile in extent, about ten nules from the ocean edge of the flats and in llie middle of the ri\('r, • Viiitulutui or Egf{ Liluiiil. 150 ALASKA COAST PILOT. wlii'ic it is live iiiilfs witlc. Six iiiilt's iioitli of tiiis islet tlic river turn.s vt'iy mikI- (Iciiiy to the east iiiid tlieii soutli-soutlieast, at the Haiiio time eontraetiiiy; to a iiiilo or h'ss ill widlii. Li llie northwest imrt of the great liemi is situated mi Liiliaii \ ilia;;!' ( iilliil A!aj;aink, ami placed liy SerebreiiikoH' in latitude 00° ll'.^J and loii- Kitude WrP 111'. The ciiiTeiit in the lower reaches of the river is slnf;Kish. A few miles east- ward of the second {;reat lieiid at the eastern mouth the Ivussians rather indefl- nitei.v locate a larf-c lake, the resort of ducks diiriny the breedinj; season. The course of the river has heeu partly traced by ollicers of the T'lissian- Americaii (Joiiipaiiy, several de;;rees northward haviny been reached by an expe- ditiou followiii};- Klineek (Fire) river, flowing from Lake J'lavejno, in lati- tude (!li° 10', and longitm' 141(0, and from the lake descended the Tleshytui lUvcr and reached Copper Hiver. Scrcbi'cnikof ascended the river to latitude (!2° 48'. 7, longitude 147^ .'}()', where he lost his life at the hands of the natives whom he attempted to wrong, but who dcli\cic(l lip his instruments, books and inaiis. The general coiiisc of tlie ii\cr for one hundred miles is almost north; then runs west-northwest for ninety miles; then north, iiorthiiortheast and east. The depth of the river is shallow; the width occasionally not more than lii:lf a mile. The banks are moiiiitaiiious, especially the right one. In many i)laces these mountains present periicndicular precipices broken by gn-at gorges and ia\ iiies fiom whiili come glaci<'is. As the glaciers ijj;c forced into the river, they are undermined by the stream, and great masses fall into the stream, with awful revt'rbeiations for miles. (irewingk says that the gorges bordering the river are filled with ice twenty fathoms tliiik and one mile wide near the river. Jn some places this ice is coNcred with a soil uiion which moss bushes and berries aie growing. In the middle of the ii\er ice masses are often seen covered with fresh gr<'en bushes and rijie berries. AboNC the rapids, which are formed where the liver breaks tliioiigli the gla- ciers ol' the Vakutat range, no more ice is found, and the country is free from sea winds and fogs. These winds and logs confine themselves to the ocean slope of the range. In winter the nati\es lea\(' tlu' coast and retire to the interior. One hundred miles above the rapids of the Atna the swift Tschettschitna enters from a lake one hundred miles east of its mouth. It is on this snnUl river that the pure copper is found in nuisse.s from a few iMnuids to forty pcmuds. Jn 1S07 we could not ascertain the precise locality of the copper; we learned that the inhabitants have tried to retain the secret of its location, and several parties have been murdered or held as slaves in at teiii])ting to exph)re the country; but one of the oflicers of the company informs us that the copper is found about twenty- live or thirty niiles above the eastern mouth, and in readily moved mas.ses of pure copjicr. We received a ])ie(H' weighing about tlftceii imuiids. There is an Indian scttU'iiieiit at the niuutli of the Tschettschitna, and when the ice breaks up in the lake the stream sufhleuly overflows its bunks and rushes with such swiftness that the inhabitants flee to the mountains. ALASKA COAST PILOT. IT) I Oil tlic Irlt hiiiik of the Atiiii, a mile aliovc (lie Tsclicttscliii mi, is the single Iiousc (if line of till' Ifussiaii < ouiiiaii.v's tnidors. Tcht'iikotl' placos it in latitiulc (iP L'.S'.l, ami litiifjtiluilc 1 l'>^ Hi. Tp to this ]it)int llir livcr is wvy s|iiiis('l.v pi-o- pled Tlic shores aio rocky, hut covi'icd with llr, jioiilar. wilhiw, ami hirch. North of tliis ]iost tlioiv is a tolerably extemled plain lietweeii the iiiomitaiiis on both sides of the river. On the left bank, direetly in view of the jxist, is the sii<;ail(mf-shaped volcano Mount Wiaiifiell, covered with per|ietnal snow, but eniittiiii;- tire and sniuke. several heavy eartli(|iiakes every year. It is not part of an.v inoiintain Thei •e are raii;;e, but an isolated peak. Ou Grcwiiiyk's map it "is less than ten miles north of the tradiiij; jiost. In winter the natives, by an easy jiortaye, pass to I'rinee AVilliam Sound, from a lake which they reach by ascendinj; a small stream emptying' into the ^Vtna below the tradiii'^ iiost ; others travt'l over monntains, lakes, and j;'it'i't frozen marshes, to the head of Cook's Inlet. The natives brenikoir's imprndence, for in l.S,"i'J they "burst into a very serious and dauf^erous revolt," which was, however, put down. The natives inhabiting the coast between Yakutat and Prince William Sound are called LTgalense, and number about thirteen hundred souls. They have their own langnai,'!', and inhabit the banks of the streams, living up(m lish and siicli berries and vegetables as they can gather or grow. PllINOE AVILLIAM .SOUND Oil C'UUOACII GX^LF. This extensive body of water has an area of about twenty live hundred miles. It is very irregular in shape and outline, but may be described as a great gulf entering the coast to the northward and spreading great arms in <'veiy diri'ction. Th(^ entrance, reckoning from Cape Ilinchinbrook <(> Cape Puget, tiftyli\e miles ajiart and about west-soiithwest and east-iiortheast from each other, is mainly occupied by large islands, of which Montague is the [irincipal one, strc^tching well out into the ocean, and by its general direction of northeast and soiU Invest nearly blocking the entrance. The easternmost i)art of the sound is the head of Cordova Bay, whose w atcrs reach within four miles of the great bend of (Jopper liiver. with an intervening low wooded iieniiisuhi lying to the southwest, and whose .soutliern extremity, J'oint Wliitshed, reaches within five miles of Point Ijcntinck, to the northeast extremity of Jlinchinbrook Lsland. This intervening sjtace between the two l.")2 ALASKA COAHT PILOT. pdiiilx woiilil rorin aiiotlicr t'litinncc In I'lincc Willimii SoiiikL l»nt is (lIltMl Iiy tlio wi'stciii |nii( (if the ;;r('iit ('i>|i|K'1' L'ivi'i" Hats. Miiiiy III' tli<- isliiiMis in tin- soiirhl, jiiiil nt' t\w points iiiul pfiiiiisnliis toniictl liy tlic ;;i(at aims pciii'tialiii;;' till' laiiil, arc low anil covcrrd witli Wdiid ; imt iicliiiul tlii'sc rist^ j'tcinal liariricrs of ice iiioiiiitaiiis, especially to llic iioitli ami west. Till' waters of the soiiiiil are very deep, the rise and fall of the tides ipiitc laifio, and the eiineiits in the dilVerciit ehanncls are very stroiij;-, with stroii;: tide rip- l»lin},'8 ill the ciitiaiice hctwceii Port Ktclics and .Monta;,nie Island. The waters of the sound are chilled by the larjic anioiint of iee-wator from the siirroiiiidiii};' ;,dii- eicrs; and, in conseipieiice of this and the colder air from the moiiiitaiiis, niectiii;,' the warmer waters ami warmer vajiorladeii airs from the (iiilf of Alaska, tlio weather is very changeable, ami sudden sipialls of wind and thick fogs prevail. North and west of the sound lies an elevated range of iiinantains, streteliing northwestward from the western jiavt of the Jfoiint St. lOlias range, (perhaps being a coiitiniiation of it,) and inclosing the sound round to the north. The highest jteak is abiuit eighty miles distant from the shores; and Tcbeiikotf saw the range in ISIS in all its grandeur, but I'cinarked no indication of any active \dlcaiioes. On the north slnue glacier.s come down to the heads of the bays, and Whidboy says that such great masses are sometimes detached from their faces that the. noise of the shock passes over the sound like dull, heavy thunder, and he felt the earth tremble at a distance of six miles from the locality of one of these concus- sions. There is communication between the western jtart of the sound and Cook's Tnh't; and Vancouver understood that a party he met with had crossed from Tiirnagain arm of Cook's Lilet to Passage Canal of J'rince William Sound. Tebenkod" says that looking at the short distance which separates these waters, it would seem as if the isthmus were the best route of intercommunication; but the natives prefer to take c'ther of the imtside routes, or a iiortage of eight miles from Uesurrectiou P>ay, in latitude (ido 07', to the lake whence the Kakni River rises, and descend to Cook'.s Inlet, in hxtitude 00° ;5L", where the Kussians have the stockaded post St. Nicholas. Grewingk's map indicates that this portage exists between the head of Resurrection Bay and the Tnstiimena Lake, which lies on the western think of great glaciers, and empties by the Kassilov iJiver into Cook's Inlet, a few miles south of Fort Nicolas. The passage on the isthmus passes through a ravine between two mountains; the ravine is tilled in part by a glacier, from beneath which Hows a stream. Dur- ing summer this ice melts, and leaves a continuous cavern adorned with icy stalac- tites overhanging the stream. Some courageous natives during their winter travel take the isthmus loute, when the ravines and precipices are covered with drifted snow. (Tebenkotf.) Vancouver says the sound reipiired the greatest circumspection to navigate, and although it diverges into many extensive arms, yet noiu^ of them can l)e con- sidered as commodious harbors, on account of the rocks and shoals that obstruct ALASKA COAST IMLOT. i:);i tlio appi'Oiicli to tliciii or of the vory aw/At (h'pth of wiittT at or nlioiit their ••iitniiiccs. Thf lii;,'li«'st liititude roaclicd by ariii.s of tlic .soiiiid is in I'orl Valilcs, lat it iidc (IP 0.% loii^citudt' IKP ")7' witii no ice at its lirad, and Port Wells, latituili- (iio OUy, lon;;itud<' 1 IS^ (»,V, witli a yieat ;;laeier at tiie head. Tlie natives reach Copper IJiver ahout lalilnde 01;}^ from some one of Die nunierons arms at tiit^ northeast i>art of the sound. The nnmlier of Indians in tho simnd is e.stimated at sixteen hnndred sonis hy Tehenkotf. The principal settlement is at Fort Constantine, and tlie second on Tklallvhiont or Hawkins Island, northeast of Ilinehinl^rook Island. The Indians of this rej;ion are called the Chn;,'ach. For ronnirks on the climate of the soiiinl see another pa/^c. Portloi^k experi enced very f<»f,'fi!.V» hoisterous weather with northeast winds, in .May, olf the sound. Vancouver had boisterous weather in June in the sound. It is proper to make the followin;;' explanation of our knowledj;e of this exten- sive sound as nothing has been done wince the time of Vancrous islands, inlets, rocks, and shoals, which are contained within thissjiace, beinj;- considered as secoinlary objects, did not fall within llu* limits of his service, of which tho i)rincipal object was to survey the shore of tho continent, lIINf:HINlJROOK isr-AND. This island occni)ies the eastern part of tlu' main entrance into I'rince Wil- liam Sonnd ; tho southeastorn face of tho island is a nearly stiai;;ht line lyinf( northeast lialf oast and southwest half west for Hoventoeu nules, broken by nnmer ous .snndl coves, but, so far as kiu)wu, without ad'ordiuf,' any shelter. I'uget lays down fourteen to nine fathoms two miles broad oil' the northeastern i)art of tho i.sland. The wcjsteru face runs luiarly north for lifleen miles indented by Port Etches. Johnstono aa;ys that in imssin<( alonjf th»^ northwest part of the islaiid "which in westerly direction is formed into coves and small oiten bays," he 8toi)ped in one of these bays and found a wooden cross ci'ccted on which was inscribed "Carolus IV llispau. Kex. A. N. 17!»0 I" I)" Salvador l-'idaljio." This Avouhl appeal" to bo about four miles oust of tho northwest point where ho observed tho latitude tioo .'iO', almost the same as given by TobenkotV. The north- west point of the island having remained without any designation, the l.'nitcd States Coast Survey has named it Johnstcme I'oint. The ncuth side of the island lies nearly east and west for .seven or eight miles to tho mile-wide j)assago between it and the southwe.st end of UawkiiLs* Island. This passage leads south for three miles to a large bay in the northeast side of IIinchiid)rook Island, with soundings in from two to live fathoms. The n(...iieast extremity of the island is a sharp narrow point nanu-d i'oint Hcntinck,! to which stretches the sou'.hwest- " Portloi'k named tliin Rhso iHlnnd hi 1787. t Named by Vancouver, 1794 ; it was mimed Point Steeli: by Portlnck, in 17'<7. 20 "WUffWWHf J,U- ' I* ■^^**'!?"-",T'/m*lf , iP » U*«WJJ,l|i.UI IP ii.p Wi#« LYt ALASKA COAST PILOT. «;tiin()st j>aTt of tlio Copper I'ivcr tliits. Q'liis point li<»s in latitnilf (30° 27' iiccoid- iiij; lo TflienliolV; a;ul li\o or nI.v miles to tlio nortliciist by oust lurCeast lies Point Wliitslicd,* while between these two lies a "low. nninterrn]ite(l, barren ^ai.tl as lar as l!ie eye could ri'aeli'' from .lohnstone's Imat. 'J'liis bank seemed impassable at lo'.v water, but some of tlie Ifassiaa boats have jjassed thronHh clianuels at hi^Jih watei Looking; from Point iJentinek the space toward Point ■\Vliitslied was occupied by a tremendous surf in boisterous .southeast weather. We have no description of the i)iiysieal ap[»eavances of this island; ttn Teben- koir it is laid down as high and presenting a mountainous ri«lge towards the ocean, with the Io\\(M' ]iarts exhibiting a growth of s]>i'uce. The l^sr.uiinanx name of the island is Klitagalioiik, by which it is known ou liussiun maps; Grewingk calls i*i Nutsehek, which is the Indian ai)pelhition. ENTKANCl^.S TO }'K1X(;E WILLIAM .SOV^ND. The eastern and usual entrance to this sound is about six miles wide between (ape llinehinbrook on the east and Point Zaikolft ou the west. The titlal (.'urrents run al)out three miles per hour; much fog is reported by the; Russian navigators to i»revail about the entrance. The depth o?' water in the eliannel is great — l!el- clui has one hundred and six fathoms one and a half miles west of the <^ape. The a])proa(;l'ies to this entranee are in part obstructed by the Seal Itocka described on another page, otheiwi.se tli : apjtroaches are bold and the <,'oasts east and west foifitteen or twenty Uiiles f:ee of known dangers. Twenty-two mile.S southeast by east one fourth east from CajK- ilinchinbi'ook, sdundings in tliirty- eiglil and forty fathoms are laid down by N'ancouver. The middle eutrance is between Montague Jslaiul on the east ami Latouche Island on the west. The width of the ( utranee between their .southern i)oint.s, which lie northwest three- (juart' ; . north i.nd souMu'ast three qua iters .south from each other, is alxuil nine mile.-: wide, but decreases to three abo.w ten miles insicU'. strong tiag(-, and tin' widei' one, lixc miles west, between Point I'ilrington on the east and Cape Puget on the west. We kiu)w little of * NiUiud |p_v VaiicdUM ■ . IT'.H. t Jinniod liy tli« IJjiittU iiuxtvtt C'lxmt f^iiivi.v in li-OS. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 155 tlioni. The formov was trnvcrsod liy ITiiywiird in bouts Ix'twccii Port Ktclifs itiul Cook's Inlet, nv.d ( iillt.'d Prinoi- of NNalcs Piissago. •CAPK UINCIIINUnooK. This capo i- 'lie south poini of Iliiicliiiiliioolv Island, anil ilic eastern |>oini of the piinciiial entrance to Prince William Sound. The southeast extremity of this eaj)e is north VCP wi-st, distant sixty-lour miles from the south i»oint of Kayak Island, and is 0o Kl', lonj-itude \ UP 17'. Imoiu this point the .shore stretches west m nth west and then ntu'thwest for three miles to the entran<'e to l<]tcl,es harbor, (Nutchek, of the IJussians.) From this <■:!(»• the Seal Itocks, directly in the ai>|iroacli to the entrance (tf Prince William Suuud, lie .seven miles .south 50° west, aeeording to Vancouver. SEAT. HOCKS. A firou)) of snndl rocky islets lies otVCajje Tlincliinbrook, on the luolonjration of the southeast shore of the island, ami seven nnles south ."ifP west from the east- ern i)art of the I'ape ; and also seven miles broad oil' the (southeast shore aboal a ipiartcr of a mile otV shurc in ei;;lit * Niuiit!(l l>.v Clink hi 177>^ ; on UIh chart it ih JUiicliingliroiik ; in tliu text lliiidiiiiglm)l. Tli t lircMi'iit Niiclliiiy; its Vaiicdiivi'i'M. t Viiiiiciiivi'i- pliiird it ill hititiiilc (10 llj'..">. i:)») ALASKA COA8T I'lLOT. I'litliitins (ivfT imidily bottom. This covo lies Tiearly tlirco iiiilos south l»y west I'nim J'"(> ' . ■istaiitinc. CooU f;ives a view of the couiiiiy from tliis cove ; hi;",h iiumiitaiiis ■ "V diicction, ami covered with patches of timber and snow. The noitlieiM |>aii of tile eiitiiine<' is ()ecii|»ied l>y a mass of i'oelpears well i»ro- tected and has regular soundings in five aud four fathoms. Porilock anchored here in 17S7, in live fathoms muddy bottom, and called the i.sland jirotecting it (larden Island, beeau.so he planted a variety of garden seeds upon it; the western rocky \)o'mt he mimed Point Horn.* This anchorage affords an abundance of mus- cles and cr,d)s; and in the bay abreast of it he caught abundance of hue cod and halibut, and <'ven caught them alongside the vessel. With the same he caught hogsheads of small but very good herring. Sometimes took two thousand salmon at one haul of the .seine, and they were in sneli quantities that any (pnintity might Inive been taken, {.lime 11.) Two small streams enter this cove. In this cove he cut good sticks for spare topnu.sts. mizeu-mast, and mi/.enyard. On flarden Island Portlock lopjied olV all Ihe branches from the higiiest tree on the isiand and fixed a statV about ten feet long at the to]) with a wooden aiiiic on it, and near the hot toni was inscrilied (he shii)'s name, with Ihe year and dav of the month. IJchdicr I'ound (his tree in 1S,'$7, with the inscription, '• Pint Mtclies, ship Js.ing Cemge, ^.ath. Portlock, Commr., duly L'_* ITST." " NmiHil l>.v I'ortlook, 17H7. ALASIv^V COAST PILOT. IT)" Tlio northwest sliorc is bold, iintl for llio first two miles oast of tlio fort is formed hy the southeast face ol a liij;li iieiiinsida, terminatiiij;- at the norllieast by (.'ape riiipps, wheri- a narrow channel sejtanites it from the main ami ;;ives pas- safjc to a large inner liny or la,i;(ion, tlic hea\vMr(Is the sound, from wliieh it is separated by a beaeh only a few liuiidrel" IJ", being the mean of Ivussian and ICiiglish determinaticms from Sitk; applieil to ihc Coii8tSur\ey (h'trrmimitioiis of Sitka. Magnetic variation in l.s,i7 vvas;)l'> ;W east. Chornolf gives 31° east, in lAMl I'ort Constantiiu' servers as a defense of the ( liugaeh Indians against the en croaehments ami atta<'ks of th ' ivoloshes ami i ualense. Pelcher says that in 18.'37 the houses of ilic company were in-'fiided within a substantial wooden quadrangle furnished at its sea angles with two octagonal tiir- • NiuhimI liy PiiHliirk, I, he says the surrouudiufr country wore a diller- eut aspect from Mhat it did at their arrival ; the heavy rains had melted most of the MU)W, and cverythinf^f seemed to inomise the speetly approach of sju'ing. J?y June 24, parties who ascended the highest hills in the neighborhood found a vari- :;*y of tlowcrs in fidl bloom. JIc fonml "wild wheat" Just above the beach between the cove and a fresli- Avater lagoon that empties itself by a small stream at the n(n'th part of the beach. This wild wheat is an rlijmKs with an ear somewhat like wheat, a strong wheat-like stalk and leaves, and a grain attaining at Kadiak and Unalaska the size of an oat grain. The country abounds in i>iiu^ trees, some very large; alder, a kind of hazel, but only large enough for handspikes, lierry bushes are in great abundaiu-e and variety, but not ri|)e .Iidy .Jl. Among numerous vi getables and plants he iMitiees the wild jiea, doubtless thv iti.sidii iiKiritiniKin which we found at Unalaska, ami is distributed as far north as (>!''. The snrronmling country, after (lie snow left it, which was about the middle of .lune is (piite pleasant ; and the weather at tinu's, long befme that perioil very fnic and pleasant, but at other times exceed- ingly boistenuis with constant rain, which, however, dissolves the snow, when the ]»lanis immediately sjtring foiih. lie recommended West or Brooks Harbor as the .site for a settlenu'ut. Iklcher, in 1S.'«7. notices the above-nu'utioucd patch of wild grain, ami fcmud strawlx'rriesand other berries iu toleiabU- profusion Mithout searching for them. SNTO COBI«Sat BAY. Twenty foitr miles north of the enh-anw to Port Etches, and fourteen miles north l>y west tiinvt'-toisNuie Point, lies i small island about one mile iu extent, and lying otV tin- wt>!s«i'ri' point of the jh ninsula between jiorts Fidalgo and Oravina. Tl«c chawrtiel ^tween fhis island and the ])eninsula is about a mile wide and '•se-attft'tv** ovei' with many rocks." The niuthern i»oint of this island lies about two TUi'U's southwestward iroui tin' west jtoint of Siuig Corner IJay. This harbor lies o|K>n to the northwest; the entrance about two miles wide, and the general direetiou of the bay southeast, wth stinie rocks and an islet laid down on the easicrn sliore. CiH»k says it is ".« Hue bay or rather hai- bor;" he liiMt iuti> it in a thick to;;, with excessively har«l s»jn;4lls and rain, ami of course saw notliirru, but the shores ot' thelKiv. li ivtssiu;; the islaiid oti' the peninsula he had a de[>th ot twenty six falhoi»».s over a mudi(\ bottom; soon after- ^p ALASKA COAST PILOT. l.V.) ■wards tlio (lojitli inrreased (o sixty and seventy I'atlioiii.s ovr rocky bottom; Init in the enlianee to tiie liay I lie deptli was IVoin tliirty to six, the hist, hein^' wvy near the shore. He was unable to ;^<'t as far in liie liay as lie wislied, ;uid anciiored in thiileeii I'alhonis. Tlie heail of tlie hay is slieltered from all wimls. witli a depth of water from seven to (iiree fatlioms over a muddy bottom. The hind near tiie, shore is hnv, part clear and part wooch'il. Thi' tdear ;;ronnd was covered (^Liy 10 1778) with two or three feet thick of .snow, but very litth' hiy in tlie wood. The very summits of the neif;hborinj^ liills were covered witii wood. Imt those further inliuul seemed to be iialced'rocks lionnd in snow. The west point of Sniii; Corner I>ay is ]»laced in latitude (!(P t."»V and !on.nitne less liable to daiiutliern extremity of the islniid are re[)resetited as niiinin;;' IIiiih' and four knots pi r hour, and ipiilc ii reuularly. The immediate shores of the island are well wiioded, and much lower on the northwestern side than on the eastern. Tlie island is ri-picsented as lii;th, and Vaiicouver, when at anchor uiidur the western shore aboni twenty two miles lioiii KJO ALASKA COAST PILOT. Cape Clcarc, wiis olVt'i'tiiiilly scrccni'fl fi'y Ihr lii^ii lands to tlic eastward. Oil' a low itrojccliir;^- jioint, covered with wood, on tlie sontlie.'ist f'aee of tlio islainl, liftecn miles from CajM' Cleare, lies a yrouj) of six small roeky islets, knoflii as the "NVoodfd islands on tlie Coast Sur\-ey eliart, and as the Little Islands on I'l'licnkolV. They are composed of steep elilfs, nearly le\el on tln-ir toi)s, and amy ser\-e as a <;iiide in thick or jiloomy weather. Tliey an- tolerably well wooded, and thereby not lialih' to he mistaken lor the Chiswells, which ar(! entirely barren. This is Tebcnkoll's ojjinion, bnt the Chiswells lie nearly sixty miles to the west- sonthwest. In his nni]», Portloek jdaces a line of rocks and soundin-is in fonr to ei^ht fathoms one mile olV Cape ("leare, desig'natinj;' tln'm as "coial I'oeks.*' DiNon f;ives a view of IMontajine Island. Cook nanu'd this island in 177S. The Indian name is Tsnkli, by which it is known on the Ilnssian charts. Cook passed onl thi'on^h the channel on its west side, and remaiked that in this channel are several islands. Those that lie in the entrance, next tli(^ o]icn sea, are hij^li and rocky. Unt those within are low ones; and bein;^- entirely free from snow, are coscred with wood and verdnre, and on this acconnt were called (!reen Islands. They lu' three miles Avest of the northern pait of the island. CArE CLKAIJK. This is 'he sonthern head of Montajine fsland, bnt no descri|)tion of it appears in any of th > old na\ij;ators. It is situated in latitude .'i!>^ Ui' aecordinj; to Port- huk ami \'ancouver, lou};itude 1 IS^ 01' aceordiiiR' to Tebenkoirs chart ; and ruitlock lays down "corn! rocks" one mile otf its exti'omity with .soundinjjs in four to eiyiit fathoms. From tin. point Cape I'uy'et lies north ."iSo west, distant eij;hteen mih's, white between them lie two larye islands, with passajjes upiui »'ither side of them into Prince William Souml. <^e of tliese is described under the headiuji' of Khlikathlik or liatouehe Islan.' : the i)eculiarities of the otheis art^ unknown exeei)t from the {;'i'i"'i'id desciriuptions of Vancouver. Twenty-eif;ht miles south of Cape Cleare I'oitlock fouiiii seventy-six fathoms over nuiddy bot torn. The water otV the coral rocks appears to be of yood depth; Portloek found foriythice fathoms over a bottom of yravel, snndl stoiu's, and shells, when the cape bore east 'ly north halfnoith six miles, and deeper water towards mid- jtassa^e ov<'r a bottom of lund. ;See remaiks on the entrances to Prince ^^■illia^l Sonml.) Xanconxcr anchored umlei the ^ontafrne sboie in t\\cnty-one fathoms, about live miles inside the si.iiiliern \ isihle pait of the islaiid. At this anciiorayc lu' says the vessel was oin' mile lr,tm the nearest shore, which bore south .""^P east, (comiiass,! whih' lUc sontlieiiiniost point bort; south .U)^ east about three miles. Here a vcr\ heav\ swell rolled into tlH> channel round the south point of Monta;;ne Island. lie says thai between this anchorage and Point IJasil no ALASKA COAHT PILOT. i»;i botfom could bo found witli sixty to oif,'lit.v iatlioms jf line williin a inilc ol" Moiitii;:iie. Six or sov<'n miles iiisido of ('jii)O Clean', the Kiissiaii tharts liavc a imy two miles ill exteiil. oi)eii to the west, but no sonn(lin;;s are indicated ; N'aneouNcr lias the same indentation, and the Unssians appear to have bodily taken his survey of this sound as the basis of their ehai'ts. J'ifiy-tbur miles south 27° east from Oai)o Cleare, Portloek has a souiidiiif;- in ninety-live fathoms ov<'r muddy bottom ; and south 25° west from this eaite he gives one hundred and ten fathoms over muddy bottom. From the eai)(> the eastern of the Harren Islands' in the entrance, to Cook's Inlet, is distant one hundred and tweiity-se\en miles soutli <>7° west. •maci.kod iiAunnn, This bay is situated on the nMilliMcst shore of ^Nlontayfue Island, about ten or twelve miles within tlu^ southwest jioiiit of the island, and nearly abreast of the island Latouche, that forms the west .side of the channel. I'ortlock says that after a boat examination lie hauled in for it, and aiielnu'ed in twent.s I'allioiiis, over a muddy bottom. In runninji' into the bay, Just olV the •.south jioiiit, the soundin}is were seven and ei;;(it faihoms. ov«'r a bottom of blacdc mud and sand. This liank ai)i)eared nearly across the mouth of the bay, and, after passin^r it the water deepened to twenty-one fathoms; and with this depth the south point of the entrance bore soutiiwest by south about one and a half mile; the north l>oint bore northwest by west half west about ojie mile; and the distance frnm t'.ic nearest nortiiern .shore was about a mile. His rough sket(!h of this bay shows that it lies about northeast by east for three ami a half miles, with irrcfjular soundings from the seven-fathom bar across the entrance to twenty-two fathoms in spots, and carrying ten fathoms to the iiead. In the extreme northeast part is a small indentation, half a mile in extent, with four and a half to six fatiioms water, and a stream tlows into the eastern part of this cove. Tiie whole east head of tlu; harbor is an extensive Hat. A vessel can lie in the cove in four and a half ;■> live fathonj.s, about a cable's length from shore, with the south jioint of the Imilior Just, shut in by the jioiiit forming the cove. This point may be taken close aboard, as the water is (piite bold. I'ortlock .says that all vessels coming into this harbor IVom the south ward ought to keep the shore of Montague Island as close aboard as possible, tor if tliey get otV into the channel and over toward the western slnu'e they will bring sixty, seventy, and eighty fathoms of water, !ind that depth too <;lose, inshore for anchi>ring. The south point of the entrance was named by i'orllcick, roiiil r.r\anl ; the northern, Point Woodcock; their di.stance ai)art about two miles, bearing noilli- east by north and .southwest by stuith. * Nuliird iit'lir I'ortlcuk's lirst iiiiitf. >A K'.L' ALASKA COAST IMI.OT. Tlio only wind to wliicli tliis liny in cxiuiscd is from tlif soutliiS'PRt, nnd tlnn !i vessel niiiy rnii up into ; In- conc and imicIh)!' in fonr and a half fatlionis. 'I'lic sontli point of tic liaiUor is plac('d in latitude ~)'.)'^ ."iS', lon^itmle I 17^ ."»!', liy 'I'elienKotf. N'aneouvcr placed tlie north point, whieli he named Point Itasil, in latitude •"i."^^ 01', l(ut he does not appear to have had any olisei'vations, as tho weather was very had. (See remarks under llenniu'^' l!ay.) l''idm Maeleod Haihoi-, in sounding' iieross the channid towards I.atouelio Island, titty and sixty fatlionis an' found over a muddy hotfom soon after (indliufj; the haihor; no Itottom in mid <'haiinel with seventy I'athonis. Close to the sluuo of Latonehe Island, within a ealde's len;;tli, the souiulini;s are from forty to lifty fathoms, and these are carried to the exlieme north of the island. N'ain'oux'er says lu' tbund tolerably };dod soundin^^s on the .'\Ionla;;iM' side of the channel nrontasue Island are bold, with soundings of thirty liilhonis over a muddy bottom, about a mile from land. About ti\(' leaj^nes tVom Macleod I larlxtr, I'ortloek says he came to a deep wiih^ bay. where vessels may safely ride at anchor in from twenty to ten fathoms, muddy bottom. With ten fathoms the ancliora.ue is near the bottom of the bay, and about half a mile from shore, but the best auchora.u'e seems to be nearest tins siMith side, and no nearer the shore than in from leu to twelve fathoms water. A fresh-water stream enters into the sontii jiai! of the bay, where INutlock drew his seines, and in one title eau^iiit a quant ily of salmon siitlicient to load two boats. In the above position this bay has no existenei' in Vancouver or Tebenkotf eliarts; and in I'ortloek there is only a broad indentation of the shore. 15ut in jiis i^'eneial chart INutiock places llanninn' I>ay live miles northeastward of ]\IaeIeod Harbor and about liltceii from Cape Cleare. \'anconver says that ■Whidbcv visited llanninu I'.ay and Alacleod Harbor, and '■ represented them as \ery inucli exposed; constilutiii.u'. in fact, nothin.u' more than slopping' places in navi^iatinu this channel. The points of both oii^ht not to be approachod too near, as liirkiiii;' rocks are situated at some distance frfun them."' This bay was nanied Sound Company. I'ortloek alter one of the. illiceis of the Ixiu^i' (icor^o's AF-ASKA COAST VllAYV. 103 ClUKKX ISLKS. Tlii'v lie four miles wcstwiiid ol' tlii' iimtlioni i);irl nf Muiitii.i;iH' In1:ui(I, jiid tlio soundings in tlic cli.-iiiiifi to tlir sou ml \ ;ii\ IVoni lliiit.v-li\<' lo twenty fiitliiuus, until nciiiin;;' the ( liccn Isles, Nvhcn tlu' wuter sliouls. iind t'i('<|U('ntl.\ sexcn uml t'iiilit were found liv i'oitlock, with rock,\ iMul slnll hotloni. Patches ol' kelp were iiiiiuerous near the shoal s(Miiidin;;s. A line of rocks <'.\teiids from the norlh jioiiit of thedicen Isles to a small ishiml aliout six miles norlli of it ; luil it is not known wlielhei' it is a continuous reef, alt hon^li I'ortloek's liack would indicate a passaj^e thiou^h it. Another lini^ ami ail islet extends five miles south of the southern extremity of the islaml; while a patch, with one aliovc; water, is laid down two miles southwest from tho southern part of the(!reen Isles, The indications of rocks aliout the (li'con Isles are so nunu-rous, from the short ex])erience of Coolc, I'ortloek, Dixon, X'ancctuN er, and others, that it is advisalile to W(uk on the .Montague side of the channel, within a dislaiu'c of lliiec or four miles from the shore south of I'ort Chalmers. Vancouver lays ilown the Cireen Isles as one; I'ortloek makes three, ly in;,' parallel with the west coast of .Monta.i^iie Island. ('UAl:mhi;s u.vv. On the northwest shore of IVronta.nue Island, eiiilit miles from the mufh point. I<,"tweeu three and four miles southeast of the e;isternmosl point of the (Ircen Isles, ami the same distance east of the '' l(u;;';:;('(l Itock," lyin;;' in the passaf;(i lU'ar the shores of the (Ireeii Isles, lies this port, broad open to the northwest. TIk' shore of Mimtaji'ue Island is here broken liyse\i'rai points and marked iiy islets ami rocks. I'ortloek applied the nanu' Clialmers llarlKU- to a rcsiiicicd part of this broken shore, and Vaiu'ouver to the same part, with the addition of another bay to the southwest, ajiplied the term I'oit Chahuers. The proper desi;;nation should ho Chalmers liay, and this would lie east of the northeast and southwest ]ioints. which are laid down ti\e miles north l.'S'' east and south L'S^ west of each other. The northeast iioint, named Stocl^dale roini by the (Oast Survey, woidd lie, accordin.u' to A'ancouver's skel<'h, three ami a half miles noitli TS"^ east from the easlernmost jioint of the (Ireen Isles: and the southwest point I'oni- miles south 1(1° east from the same, l-'roni the line JoiniiiL; the mull st and southwest iioints of th.e bay, the Chalmers Harbor of I'ortloek lies two ami a half miles to the eastward, and nearly midway between tin in. The apjuoaehes to this harbor are markec;iis HKiitli 20'^ Piist. two !iii(l a liiilf miles (li.stiiiit, with a broad slioal ott' tlio piiiiit lur 11 (inaitcr of ii mile. I'lic hot (lircctioiis (o rciicli tin- liarltor IVoiii llio iioi'tli would he to niii from tin; oiitsidf of tiif Noitli i'assa;,'!' Uork to i'oiiif (ill If, till- iiorlli point of tilt', liarbor, pass tlic point altovc a tliiiil of a mile west of it, anil wlifii its soutli tan^'cnt iicars cast inn tor it, carrvin;;- ten futUoms close to it. If eoiniii;? from tlie sontliwanl, run np nnder tlie Montafrne shore until the Konth jioiiit of (ireeii Isles Iicars south of west, then keep towards the western shore, lint on the east side of '• Unji^'ed Kock," l.viii;,' aliont three miles southwest by soiilli three ipiarters south from the eastciniiiost jioint of (!reen Isles. .Mid- passaj;!' lietween this *' Iiiik;;('(I Rock" and the east shore lie two dan;;('idus .sunken rocks. Vancouver beat northward between these rocks luid •' Itii^jf^ed Koelc" with twenty fathoms, and Whidliy beat between them and Moiitaj^ue Island witli ei^ht to til'teeu fathoms. These rocks lie aliont northeast half north and south- west half south three (piarters of a mih> from each other; the southern bcariiif^ Boiitli (iS^ east, one-half mile from " I{u;.;Hi('d Uock ;" thi' northern one east, one and three-ipiarters miles from " Uuj;;;('d itock." Vancouver says: '< We smhleidy caiue, upon the .soiitheriinu)st of tlieso rocks in a depth of nineteen to .si.v fathoms, without any ke1[i or otlu-r indications of shoal water; on the northern one, whicdi shoah'd eipially quit'k, there was a small patch of kelp t^rowiiiy in throe fathom.s, w itli live to seven fathoms clo.so around. Each of the.se appeared to occupy no greater exteut than the sliiii's leuyth in any direction." The south point of Ohalmers Hay bears west by south tlireequartors .south nearly three miles from " Hujjfi'ed lioek," lint Vancouver lays slaial Ki'ound half a mile otV the point to the northwest, although tin; .soundiiijis a mile .south westward of it are thirteen one-third of a mile oft" shore. ]S'ast of the south luiint, stretchinj;" towards a "woody islet" from which the kication of the other dangers may be determined in ap[iroachiug the harbor. This " WaotJy Islel" lies three miles south of the North I'assage Kock, and three-quarters of a mile from the eastern .shore, with flfteeii fatlnims water between it and the southern and eastern shore. A "detached rock" lit.'s a ((uarter of a mile southeast of Woody Islet. A. patch of rocks lies between this detacshed rock and I'oint (lilmour, about one-third of a mile from the rock; a .second patch lies half a mile northeast by north from Woody Islet ; a third patch half a mile uorth of Woody Islet. A depth of six or .seven fathoms lies between these iiatt and ]iiiint, run east under the south side of the point, 'i'hreeipiarlers of a mile north I.-p west from Woody Islel is the /S'u«//t i'«»««//(' AVA' of Vancouver ; it covers at high water, and ALASKA COAST riLOT. 1G5 i liiiH tlii'cc fiitlioins closo to if. Il lies ii litllt- over mic mile west o!' I'oiiil (liliiioiir; if il is visiltic, inn for I'niiil (iiiiiiniir in i'i;;lil nml ten I'liilinins, IcMviii;.' ijiis rork nut ii\('iii (inaitcr (il'ii iiiilf sonlli ol' lliccdiiisf, iind llins iiMijdin;;' IHxrin-itii li'mh, on Mliicli N'iincoiivcr'.s vrssrl <;n>iinil(Ml. 'I'liis mrk lirs norlli (P t'list, tViini W'uddv Islet, 1111(1 niiitli Tl"^ west, one iiiilc tVoin I'oinl (iiliimnr. Il lias tni ratliitins cldsc ai'diinil it, anil was not iiiarUcd li\ kelp; it lias less than Iwti tatlidiiis iipdii it: at low \vallant, ap|(ears a better teiiiporaiy aneJidiaL;!' than ('haliiieis Harbor. 'I'lie ><)niidiii;:s ajipear unifdrm at tllteeii fatlidins, ;;radually decrcasin^t one third of a mile li'diii IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V / {/ A O (/. 1.0 :ff»^ I 2.5 1^ i^ 12.2 I.I i/- 1^ 1.8 1.25 IIIIII.4 IIIIII.6 V] ^ //, % ""# ■^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRfcET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 872-4503 A «) ALASKA COAST PILOT. tlio sontlioast slioro, to wliicli tliico fatlioins ciiii be (lanicd Avithin a, quartor of a, iiiilc. Soiitlnvanl aii:l westward of tlie soutlicin island a ilecp co .c tMitcrs, witli slioal water; Itut a vessel may lie in eiylit fatliom.s elose under tlie eastern shore with tiu^ south island bearinjj; northwest by west, and Woody Island a litthi west of north; this South Core would then be open to the n(»rthwest, but no soundiuys are fjiven westward or norlhwestward of tlu! south island. TIu^ f^eoKrajthieal i)osition of "Sinkin;;' Point" where it Joins the main shore was deti'rinineil by A''anei)uver, latitiule (!()^ Hi', longitude from Tebenkotrs ehart 117° -M'. In June, 17!»t, Vancouver found tiie nian'iietie- variation I'S'^ .'io' ciist. From his sketcii IViint (lllmour is in latitude (i(P Hi'; Torllock plaeed it in C.' 17'; the north point of the bay is ii; latitude (i(P ISA'; the south point (ilP Ui'. While anehtucd there, from May iMi to .Juno 10, he (tbserved a considerable dilferenee between the ni<,'ht and day tides; the former, duriuH; the springs, rose thirteen feet foin- iiu-hes; whereas the latter did not rise nune than twelve feet one iiu'h ; and it was high water about an hour after the nu)on had passed the meridian. After Van(!ouver got his ship off Discovery Hock lie anchored half a mile west-north west from it in twenty-one fathoms over mmldy bottom, with Woody Islet i)eariug south by east one and three-fourths of a mile, I'oint (iilmonr south .'•1° east one ami Ihrce-fouths of a mile, and the north point of tiie bay iLortheast three-(piarters nortli one and tliree-fourlhs of a mile. In this jtosition a "few cod ami halibut were take i ibiring the night." Vancouver has a sketch of this harbor; I'ortlock has an inferior oiu'. Vancouvei' says that about ('liabnei's T>ay the country, as high up the si HI. l''rom its diveisity in surface, and spaces clear of trees, it jiresenled a very pleasing verdant ai)pearance, but these clear jdaces were a iierfect sphaguous nn)iass, frecpiently composing the sides of hills. The trees weic not large. "The shores are in general low, and the s(m appears to be making rapid encroaclnnents ui»on them. Many tices had been cut down siiu'O these regiims had been visited by Europeans; this was evident by the \ Islhle cIVects ol the axe and saw, which we concluded had been produced whilst I'cntlock and Dixon were here seven years before,* as the stumps of the tret's are still remaining on thi' earth where they had originally grown, but were iu)w many fct below high-wat«'r mark, even of neap tides. The narrow, low, projecting point (named Siidiing I'oint) had not long since alVorded support to some of the largest i)im' trees in the neighborhood, but it was now overtlowed b\ every tide; and excepting two , \\ liii iMiill .s|ij|i« in ( ■|iil;;iii'li Siiiiiicl liiiij; lirlcm! ■i ALASKA COA.ST PILOT. 1(57 Stochhdc JfitrJmr, of rortlock, lies imiiuMli;it«'l.v iiordi of Clialiiicrs ISitv ; Vaiiconvor says it is "only a bay lull ol" rocks, and not woitliy of any particular examination." . Vancouver says tliat ofl" tlu^ northwest i)()int of Alontn^'ie Island a Icd^'e of rocks extends half a mile; but at half a leaj^ne from the jioinf he found sixty live fathoms over muddy bottom; in his chart lie phices (ifty-seven fathoms two miles west of that point. LATOUOIIE OU FOOT ISLAND. On tlie west side of I^IontajLtue Island, abreast of Port Macleod, lies tlu» island Kldikakhlik,* or Latouche, of wjiicli the southernmost point, or rallu-r the islauti off it, bears northwest three-int to a distance t»f two miles west I'rom the southern point of the island. The jfcneral direction of the i)assatfe west of the Kldikakhlik Island is north- east by nortii for ten or twelve miles, dccreasln^i' from four to two miles in width ; a few soundinys indicatinji a general mid passay,(' (h'ptli of thirty-live and forty fathoms. At five and seven miles from the southern enfiance arc two small islands (m tlu' <>astcrn side of nud-pi>ssa;;e. .Vnchora}?e is laid down at the south entrance of this passa;;!' in lifteeu fathoms under the western shore when the north end ol the small island iiears east soutJU'ast ; also under the eastern shore, close to the soiilliwest poiid, of Kldikakhlik Island, whicli bears south fii»m the anchoras')' ; no depth is noted. The latitude of tiiis ixiini was determined by Harytchef as 5!P .")(»', and Tcitenkolf f^ives the lon;;itude IIS^ 1 P. Two or three coves are noted on the easlci'ii side of the jjassa^jc, and anchoi'aye learkctl in the cove cast of the second islet inside in the passa;j;e; no soundings are noted. A sm: M stream empties into the eastern part of the cove. On the western slnne of the ]>assajj;e, abreast this cove, is the entrance to a lai]ne bay oi- |iassa;;c, with numerous islands therein. The ]iassa;4'e t(» the north of them has lil'Icen to twenty fatlioms; and the lirst cov. to tht> northeastward, al)oiit a mile inside, has ten and six fatli iins laid down. Aloii;; the northwestern side of Kldikakhlik IslamI, and either tlirou;;li its "Xlllllcll I'lKil 1m1:iiiiI liV I'cililriiU: l.;ll(illrllr ll\ VullliillMr. 108 ALASKA COAST PILOT. western i>as.snf,'c or HiioukIi the second one west, II lyward (of I'ortloek's ves- sel) inale his i)assages from Port I-ltches to Cook's Inlet, and named it I'lince of AVales I'assaf^e. The north point of Khlikakhlik Island was named Point Grace by Van- couver. rOIXT KLUrNGTON.* This is the sonthern extremity of the middle of the three islands lying between Cape Cleare and Ca|)e Pu;>et ; from the former it is laid down northwest three-(|narters west fourteen or fifteen miles, and from the latter, east about four miles. It also forms th(> eastern jtoint of the entrance to Port Uainbridge,* from which two i)assages lead into Prince William Sound. Vancouver describes it IS a hinh, steep, barren promontory, of small extent, connected to the south end of the island by a narrow isthmus, and formin;;' the " southwesterumost part of the hijrh, rnHf>ed cluster of islands lyiny live miles cast of it." This cluster is Latonehe Islaiul. POINT PYKE.* North of Point T'jlrington about live or six miles is the south point of an unnamed island. It is bold and rocky, with a number of islets lying oil" it, and was nanu'd by Vancouver, who statcis that it is remarkable for its sugar-loaf form. To the north of Point Pyke is a "tolerably well sheltered bay, surrounded on all sides by lofty, abrupt, snowy mountains." To the north of this there is a second bay, and als(» a murow opening ten miles long to the northeast, leading to Prince "William Sound. , rOIJT I5AIX1JKIDGE.* , This arm of the sea has its southern opening, three miles wide, between Point Klrington assage, but the western shore i'. compact, altlDugh inchMitcd by coves. Point I'yke has been described. Ten i lies north of I'oint EIringtoii, on the east- ern side of the i>ort, is the nariow ojjejiing of a passage; leading eleven miles north ."iOO east into Prince William Sound. This passage is sonu'thing less than a mile wide; tlier(> are several snnk(Mi rocks in it, and the shori's are eomi)osed of stc(>p, rocky mountiiiiis. The noithwesi jxiint of the north entrance of this pas- sage was named I'oint Countess by Vancouver, and jtlaced in hititude (UP l.'V. TebenkotV jilaccs the longitude in HS^ IL". Pive niilf>s northwest of Point Coun- ' Nioiu'd by Vsoifouvor, 1701. ALASKA 'JOAST PILOT. IGO tess lies the mo ath of Icy Bay, to btOierciiftor referred to. The north jwiiit of tlie south entrance to thi:< passage was natned Point Waters by Vancouver, and marked by "some rocks and breakers before it." Ten mih's nortii 15° west from Point Waters lies the head of tlie port, " with a small tract of lowland, ott" wliicli, as well as off its western i.hore, lie sonu* rocks and rocky islets, upon which, althoufjh cightiHMi miles from the entrance, the sea broke with such vio lence as rendered hiudinjj: daufjerous." The latitude of the head of this port is pla the shores not less than thirty to fifty fathoms of wati'r. Tlie coast is 22 ■ Named liy Vancouver, 17i)4. 170 ALASKA COAST PILOT. very rocky, and stco]) anil niountainnns, yet covcnil with wood, wliiU> tlic ravinos and f,'(»r^('s l><'tw<'«ii the nionntains contain in many i)laccs ^^lacicrs wliicli stretch l»a( k from tlie hcad.s of the bays cvi-n to tho ;,'orgcs descending towards ('ook's Inh-t. From the isthnnis lictwccn Passage ChaniH'l in the northwcsf ])art of Prlnco AViliiani Sonnd and Tiirnagain Arm in the northeast i)art of (look's Ldct, tho ]tcninsnhi is one hundred and thirty mih'S h)ng to Cape Elizabeth. Tlie eastern part is traversed by a range of high, snow-clad mountains whose general direction is sontiiwest by west and nortlicast by east, and which seems to Ix^ prolonged l)y the Uarrcn Islands an?I the Kadiak (iroup. On tlie western flaidv of this range are great lakes fed by the waters of melting glaciers, and sui»i)]ying streams emptying into Cook's Inlet. Across this range the Indians sonu'times make win- ter Journeys between Cook's Inlet and Kesurrection 15ay. • day's iiakuok. Tliis liarbvir is laid down on TebenkoH' about fifteen miles west from Cai)0 Puget. Tiie bay opens , longi- tude 1 1'.io \',VA, ae<'oiding to ArchimandritotV. It is not described by Portlock, but was doubtless visited by his longboat oil her trading trips from Prince AVilliani Hound to Cook's Inlet. . KKSI'UUKCTION BAY. The southeast ]>oint of this extensive arm of the sea, from tilteen to twenty miles long and six to three miles witle, lies twenty miles west by south of Capo Puget, thirty-seven miles west three (piarters north from Cai>e Cleare, and nine- teen miles northeast by mnth half nmth from the Seal Pocks otf the (Jhiswell Islands. It was well known in the last century and selected as the future ship- yard of tlie lliissian-Aniericau Company; but it does not present the proper facilities, on aceouut of the great deiitli of water, the severity of the climate, and tlie wild nature of the coast. In Vancouver's time fiuir English shipwrights were coiulucting llu' shipbuilding of the Sco reuiui'kH on tliu Kndiiik gt'nup 118 11 pruIougatiDU oi IIiih pvuiumilii. a ALA8KA COAST PILOT. jnid abrupt. ArcIiiinaiKlritoil' (k'termiued tlie lutitiulc of Capo JJosiirrection 50° 51'.j, lonf,'itiule 140° i;{'.4. In the southcastcni part of the. \mr.\i\ I'litniiuu^ to this bay Ti'lMMikotV hiys down three inodcratcly larjio hut h)\v islands; the lirst tliree niih's sontliwcst by west from Cape Kesurreetion; tiie second two niiU's west liy nortli IVoni the cape, and the tliird abont lialC a mile from tlic west Hide of the eape and two miien nortli-northwest from its extremity. iMile-wid Port Andrew by Portloek, and doubtless, visited by his lonyboat on her tradinjj expedition from I'rince William !S(tund to Cook's Inlet. CinSWELL ISLANDS. ^orty seven miles south 7.P west from Ca\w Clearo, Tebenkoflf hieates the Real Ivoeks, (iv(; miles outside of the Chiswell Islands. Thirteen miles south of Seal Roc'ks Vuneouver obtained soundiiij;s in seveiity-tive tathoms, ami I'ortlock gives eifjhty fathoms over a nnuldy bottom about twenty-two miles south i>y west from them; and eighty-three fathoms over muddy bottom, seven miles east from them. Of the Chiswell Islainls Vancouver says: "We passed them and found the centre of the stmthernmost group, tiie Seal Ifock.s, in latitude .V.P ;il'; fntm these the easternmost, which is a single detached rock, lies north .")(o cjist about a league distant, and the northernmost, which the hazy weather permitted our see- ing, having several less islets and I'ocks about it, lit's ucu'th l.'i^' t-ast live miles distant. These were all we saw of the Chiswell Islands, which a:.' a group of naked, rugged nx-ks, seemingly destitute of soil and every kind of vegetation. The southern group is named the Seal llocks by Tebenkolf, and the nii,S0 r»7', with an average width «»f twit or three miles, is nearly straight, but both shores i 172 ALASKA COAST TILOT. are mnarkahly iiidcntod witli iiuiiu'rous covos and bays, in which no soiindinf^H are {{ivcii. Tiu' oiMMiinfj to tliis hay is hiid (htwn to tho eastward hetweon tlie Chis- wclls on the south and the ])i)iiit three niih-s to tlio northeast, in hititiidc '>[)° Jl', about Ibitylbur uiih's west oiu'-lialf soutli from Caiie (Meare. There is an islet hiid down in the nortliern part of the hay, tiiirteen miles from the entrance, and one mih' south of the bend to th(^ westward. About midway ahmg the west siioro an ann ent<^rs to the northwest with a jfhujier at the head; asmaUer fjlaeier is hiid down on tho west shore between this bay and the liead. At tlu^ lu'ad of the open bay, between the Cliiswelis ami the bold rocky pr>int six miles to the west of them, a fjlacier comes down to the oi-ean. Hojithwestward of the Cliiswelis the coast im'sents a broken appearance, and is indented by several unnanu'd bays with {glaciers at their heads. PYE ISLANDS.* Seventy-six miles soutli 72° west from ('ape Cleare lie the Pye Islands, forming part of the eastern shore of the deep bay of Nuka. lliere are tlireo large islands in the group, and they lie nearly north-north- east and south-sciuthwest of each other. The southern two are one or two miles in extent; the northern is six miles by three, antl nearly divided in two. IJetween the islands, and between the northern one an.i the main passages nearly a mile wide, and lying east ami west, ])assages are laid down by Tt'benkoti", but uo soniui- ings are given, nor atiy remarks of their availability in his notes. Vancearance is not easily to be mistaken in the neigh- borhood, as it descends with great regularity from its siunniit to the water's edge. Its southern extremity, by tmr oV)servations, is situated in latitude .'iiP li>'. He says that a group of rocks lying soutli 7.1° west, nearly four miles distant from the southernmost of the Pye Islamls, must be very dangerous in thick weather, especially as at high water, during the spring tides, it is probably overrtowed." TebenkofV says the rocks lie south 00° west, six miles distant froni the southern- most part of the Pyo IJocks, and two and a half miles broad otf the large rocky island forming the western side of the entrance to Xuka Bay. The approximate geographical position of the southern point of the Pye Islands, according to Archimandritofl", is latitude fiO" '20' A, longitude 150° 29' A. About nine miles east- northeast from the southernmost of these islands, and five miles otl" the coast to the northwest, Vancouver found bottom in seventy-three fathoms. About twenty- eight miles to the east he found seventy-flve fathoms, and Portlock obtained eighty fathoms over muddy bottom about twenty-rtve miles east southeast from them. * Naiui'tl r.ve's InIuikI by Tortlock in 17?^. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 17;; ^' KA BAY. Acconliiiff to Tcboiikofrj* climt tliis cxtonsivc bay is about twenty iiiilos loiifj and from six to two iniit's wide. Tlu' l'y»> Islands I'onn tlii' eastern siile of its entranee, and a lar^'e unnamed island, ei;;lit miles Ion;; north-northeast and south- southwest, with rocky, blutV shores, I'orms the western side of the entranee, whi«'h is six miles across and broad oiien to the south. The bay has a ;,M'neral din-e- tire wintry aspect than the shores of Cook's Inlet in min!h higher latitudes. These observations of Vancouver aie fully cor roborated by the experience of the Russian oHicirs in this vicinity. rouT incK. Ilalf-way from the Pye Islands to Cape Elizabeth the outer cape is called Point Gore, in latitude .5'.*° 1-", longitude L'iOo .").S'; and the two-ndle wide entrance to the west of it is the opening to Port Dick, which runs northward ten miles, with a broad arm ten miles long jjenctrating to tin; west. The immediate shores of this bay are low and wooded with streams coming into the head of each arm, and no glacier laid down on Tcbenkott". No soundings an^ given in his notes. The west shore of the entrance is bold and rocky, with a reef and islets stretching halfway (six miles) towards the eastern of the (Jhugach Islands. "Tht^ land forming its eastern ])oint, which is a jirojccting i)romoiit()ry, appears at a distan(!e like an island, when about half a league distant and bearing from north 42° west to mtrth '2P east. Towards the sea it terminates in .-in ainiipt clilV nnnlerately elevated, and is connected to the nniinland by a low peninsula covered with trees. Tlie northwest side i>re8ented every ajipearanee of affording 174 ALASKA COAST PILOT. sli('lt«'ii'«l imcliora;:*', iind tct tliiit jmrt of tlio buy most of IIm' llrct, two liiiixhi'il hIuii i-iiiMM's anil tlicir loiir liiiiulrt'd Imliaiis that had iiii>t in the t'lir traih'. now icpaiit'd." (VaiKioiivcr.) He ;;iv«'s a spiiilcd view of this ch'vatt'd rape and the wcciuMy l»»'.voiid. In I7S(( I'oitlticlv named this Dick's Ilarhor and tlie east eape I'oint (lore, alter two ol'tlie otlieers of the Kin;; (leor^e's Sound Company. His h»n;;hoat douiitless vis- ited it in lier trading' trii»s between I'rineti William Sound and Cook's Inlet, but h«' does not tleseiiin^ it. Vancouver placed it in latitude olP 1 1', Ionj;itude ITdP 11'. Tebenivoir jdaees it in latitudes "j'J^ 12', longitude l.KP r»,S'. From Point tiore, the southernmost (»f the I'ye Islands bears north 02° east eighteen miles, anil the south point of the easternmost of tho Chugach Islands south 07° west lifteeu miles. cnuoAcn islands. Three hirije islands, from two to three miles otftho sontbern extremity of tho Koiuii r»Miinsula, are disposed in a curve around it. The eastern and western are hu j;;e, three or four miles extent, and lie twelve miles apart. The middle one is smaller, and lies half-way between them and a litlhi to the southward. Three islets are laiil down one mile off the western side of the eastern islantl; roeks above and below water one and a half miles ofl" the west side of the middle cue, and rocks one mile off the southeast liu.-e of the western one. When Vaneouver was about live lea^'ues east-northeast from the eastern island, he says that a low, tiat point lU'ojected towards the maiidand. TebenkotV does not so lay it down, but places some rocks a mile north of the island towards ii very open, rocky bay lyinjjf thiee miles from the island. When Vaneouver was live or six miles soulh 0^ east (comi)ass) from the eastern Chufjach, he obtained soundinj,'s in seventy fathoms with sandy bottom, in this position the IJarreu Islands bore from south .").j° west to south .'11° west, distant thirteen miles. His bearinjjs jdace him in latitude .'Jflo OU', lonptude I'lio ;{()'. No detailed descrip- ti(»n of these islands nor their elevation is jjiven in the old navij^ators or explorers, but Tebenkotf represents them on his chart as hifjh and bold. They form the northeast shore to the entrance of Cook's Inlet, with Point Banks of the Kadiak {jroup for the southeastern shore of the entrance, and the Barren Islands between them. Tebenkotf jdaccs the southern point of the oast Chujiaeh Island in latitude 5!>° 0', lonjiitude 151° '2')', From it the eastern of the Barren Islands lies scmth 04° west, distant sevcnteeu miles, and the middle Chugach west by south, distant five miles. CAPE KLIZADETH.* The termination of the Kenai Peninsula is ''comi)osod of high land," visible over seventy miles; directly otf it lie the three islands named the Chugach. The "NiUDcU liv (.'oiik ill IT/f* al'ti-r thr I'liiircss Kli/.iilx'tli. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 1 <.) wosti'iu iM)iiit of tlie western ('liii<,'aeli is iianieil Caito Klizaltetli, wliirh CdoU iU'He"ilH'.s as a "lofty iMoiiiontory" situated in filP !(►'. I'lij^et saw it fmiii a jh, short, and irregu- lar waves, which toiijde with all t.' 'ir volume over the vessel that happens to be aiiioiig them; even during a strorg, fair v.ind the lower sails flap against the mast, wliii<' the iipjier ones are i»erfectly tilled; the vessel refuses to obey the helm, and tlu^ hatches must be onttened down." AVithin ('ajies Douglas and Elizabeth the inlet expands to sixty-five miles in width; in fifty-live miles from the entrance it ccmtraets sucUlenly to twenty-tive miles at Anchor i'oint, whence it gradually diminishes to twelve or tifteen, with the eliannel contracted by several extensive flats oil" the rivers emptying into it at its head. Its extreme northern point is in latitude 01° !(»', at the mouth of the Suchitiia I'ivcr, coining from the north and "abounding in slate." ("ook's Inlet is the great boast of the liiissian navigators and authorities as the lu'St part of Alaska, and has been favorably noticed by nearly all tlu! old dis- coverers. The well-known existence of coal upon its .shores and in its bays may make it a very valuable acquisition to the PaciUc coast. The eastern shores are broken by several small bays and harbors near the extremity of the peninsula, and by the large arm penetrating the peninsula, and known as the Teliugatcliik (Jiilf. Hut two large islands lie in the inlet — Augustin, west-northwest from Cape Elizabeth, and Kalgin, east of lledoubt Mountain. The tanteru shore, after i)a8S- ing Tchugatchik Hay, is undulating, and this characteristic extends tifteen miles inland to the base of the mountains. It has a pleasant, green api)carance in sum- mer, covered with herbage and dotted with patches and clum]>s of timber. Hut the character of the soil is marshy. The same sphagnous morass covers it that we found throughout the Alexander Archipelago, Kadiak and TJnalaska. Kast- ward of this comparatively low gi'ound rises the mountain range that extends through the length of the Kenai reninsula toward its eastern shores aud filled Avith glaciers on both flanks. The western shores have a narrow border of low wooded land at the foot of the Alaskan mountains.* Westward of Augustiu Island the shores appear the margin of "an extensive low country lying before the base of these rugged mount- * This rnii);p was dt>Mcril>i' '>iiii|<>n(car «'ai>iil>t*^ of afl'ordin^ anrhorajro." "TIk) points (»f the ei trance to tlii-HO bays aro in }(on»>ral stwp and riM-ky, iM'liind wliicli risos a compact nionntainous country to a considerable liei},dit, clad in per- petual snow. A narrow tliif inari;in alon;,' th«^ shor«> is tolerably well wooded." Twenty nules northwest by west from the northeast point of Anjjrnstiu is a small bay opeiuuK to thu southeast, with a siuall islet on the south sid < of the mouth. At the head of this bay is a factory of the Uussiau-Ameii,,i ' Company, from which a trail leiuls alxmt seven miles throu(;h a jrap in the iuouii< tins, to a series of mountain lakes dischar^'inj; within a distance of tlfteen iiihs into tiie ^reat lake of lliamua, which empties through tlie Kai<'hak river i.to Uri. .ol Ihiy, on the northwest side of the p(*ninsula of Alaska. TheRn.li '. oIcaui(! peaks of lliamua and Itedoubt, risiiiff to *'velve thousand RU'I Hixty-six and eh-vcu tiutusand two hundred and seventy icet » h-vatiou, rcspei't- ively, (see views in Tebeukotr (^liart,) lie in the rau^'c t»f compa(^t, c«mnected, and very high mountains binding the western shores of the inlet, but throughout these waters the shores an*, well wooded, and north of the liedoubt the mount aiuH retreat well to the northwest. Twenty-eight miles northwest of Cape Douglas is tho eastern point of the high islaml of Aiigustin, about eight miles in diameter and nearly round. Jh'twt'cn it and the shores to the south-southwest, sixteen miles distant, li«'s the bay of Ivam- is(;hak, with soundings from seven to thirteen fathoms on a line directly across it from north and south, and passing tangent to the west side of the island. BAUUEN ISLANDS. Nearly mid-way between Cape Elizabeth on the northeast and Point Banks on the southwest lie the Barren Lslands in two principal groups, the extremes east- ern ami western points of both being thirteen miles a|)art, in a geiu'ral «'ast l)y north and west by south direction, and bounded by latitudes 58° 5;}' and .Wo fiO', and h)Ugitmle 151° 5:V and 152° !!»', with a chaniu'l three miles wide? between the groui)S, and supposed by Portlock to have great dei>th of water. This channel lies north and south, and Cook when approaching them from the south\,ard intended to pass through this channel, but meeting a strong ebb current went to the eastward of them, and found eleven, twenty-four, and thirty-six fathoms lumr them. TebenkofT says "the eastern group has three islands a.vl the western four, all of them rather elevated, steep, rocky, and i)erfectly baiTcn." The largest of them is Usclmgat* Island, situated in the west group. It is six miles in length aiul lies southwest by west and northeast by east, with an aver- age width of one and a half mile; the scmthwest point is situated in latitude oH^ 40', longitude l.Wo li)'.7, according to Henze:nan. Two small islands lie half u •Tlie Kufsiau charts differ much about the spelling of these luUiau naiuue. 2.3 178 ALASKA COAST PILOT. mile to the westward of the west j)o:iit; tliey are not hiul down on Tebeiikofll''8 chart, but a i),vraniid roek is laid down Houtli ot the west point. A hirge island lies half a niilo north of the northeast end of the island, and another lies three miles southwest from the southeast end of the island. Alonj^ the northwest shores of lJs(liu<,'at a penirisnla makes out, connected by a narrow neck with the main shore. The larfjest island of the eastern gronp is Amatuli, (^[atuli on one chart,) one and a half mile in length, with its east i)oint in latitude 58° 57'.C, and 151° 53' l()ngitu«le, a<'cor(ling to IJenzeman. Two other smaller islands are situated one to the noilhwest and the other to the southwest and very near each other. One mile south fiom Amatuli Lslantl is a high ]»yra"uidal roek. Ou the «'ast side of these islands the uniform depth of bottom is forty, fifty and sixty I'atlnmis, lino sand and gravel. Kruzenstorn considered tliis group of islands as the northern part of the Kadiak Archipelago. The islands are very high and totally barren. Cook, who gave their latitude very closely, applied the name to them from their appearance. Dixon speaks of one of them as the "Sugarloaf" Lsland. Xo navijjator ascribes any height to them, but Vancouver saw them from latitude 58° 10', longitude 151° L'8', a dis- tance ol lifty-two miles. They doubtless rise two thousand feet above the sea. Portlock reported the vicinity full of whales in vast nund)ers. From th(^ cast point of Amatuli Island Cape Cleare bears north G7° east, one hundred and twenty-seven miles; Cape Elizabeth north half east, twelve miles; ]*:)int JJanks scnilh .500 west, twenty-two miles; Cape Hermogenes south 4° east, forty-four miles. The eastern part of the great Portlock Bank, whero we found eighty fathoms, lies south 70° east, one hundred and six miles from Ann li. TebeidvoiT and other Eussian authorities call these islands the Bezplodni or Peregrebni, (I'addle-over.) POINT BANKS. This is the northernmost point of the Kadiak Group, forming the eastern shores of i'etries or Shelikof Strait, and the southwestern point of the eastern passage to Cook's Inlet. It lies 8j)uth Coo east, thirty-two miles from Cape Douglas; south 29° west, tl'Tty-one miles from Cai)e Elizabeth; twenty-two miles south .3(io west from the eastern i)oint of the Barren Islands, and north :y,i° west, thirty miles from Cape Hermogenes. The point is in reality formed by the small island Perevaleuoi or Passage Island, but the ])assage between it and the Tschuyak Island to the south is very luirrow and cannot be made out at a distance. Cook was about fourteen miles east half north from it when he says, "the land extends from south half west to nearly west, and in the latter direction it ended in a low point which was named Point Banks." No other navigator has descriOed it. ALASICA COAST PILOT. 171) Cook placed it on liis iiiai» in hititiuUi 58° 4-", loiifjitiulti ir»2o 4.S'. lU'iizoiiiiiii l>la(M'.s tlu> iiortli «'iul of tlu- island in .".So ;«(' and l."tl3o lit'. About latitude ">So ;;((', lou<;itud»' l.TP .'{.V, rio 22', he yot fo'ty fathoms over (gravel and dark sand, thirty-two miles south (11° east from Point nanks,aiul the sanu' dei>th extended thirteen miles further to tlie southeast- ward. Iu 58° 20', lolf* 57', Cook got souiulings in forty fathoms over a l)(»tt<»m of sand and shells, seventeen nnles south 41° east from I'oint Biinks, ami cauf,dit halibut while his vessel was becalmed. CAPE DOUGLAS, The formation of this cape is saiul and rock, and is a low sandy i)oint strefeli- •ing westward five miles into the sea from the base t)f very lofty nuuintains wrapped in snow, which, as late as May, covers the surface of the low maiyin of shore to the water's edjie. (Vancouver.) Tebenkoff jjives a view of tiie caj)e, ■wherein it appears moderately low and rocky, and without wood, but no signs of its being saiuly. No elevation is given by any of the old imvigatois, only the Russians, but Vancouver incidentally mentions that from the soutlu^rn extremity of Kalgin Island, in latitude GtP 2;5J', he observed the bearing of the mountains seen over Cape Douglas, distant thirty-five leagues. If this was the '''Fourpeaked Mcmntain'' fourteen miles southwest, from Cape Douglas aiul siHen miles inside the nearest shore, the distance at Avhich it was visible was one hundred and ten miles, ('ook saw this mountain eighty miles distant, from latitude 58° 10', longitude ir)lo 28', over the northern part of the Kadiak grouj). He says. "We got sight of a very lofty promontory whose elevated summit, fonning two exceedingly high mountains, was seen above the cloiuls. This lU'onuHitcny I nanuHl Cape Douglas; it is situ- ated in latitude '>ii° .j(J', ten leagues wost of the Barren Islands." This mountain, immediately behiiul Cai)e Douglas, must be over eight thou- sand feet above the sea, from the foregoing facts. The south side of Cape Douglas has soundings laid down in six, eiglit, nine, and eleven fat! loms, with two reefs of rocks, respectively lying seven ami eleven miles to the south and the south-southwest, with passages between Uieni and the shore, off which they lie about three and one miles, resi)ectively. On the north shore, three miles frm the point of the cape, is Dry Bay, an indentation with a broad shoal just inside its heads, which are one mile apart. tSeven or eight miles north :Vd^ west from the cape lies a very h)w, flat island, four or five miles long, in a north and south direction, and about a mile wide; off its north eiul Tebetdcotf hiys lown sunken rocks for a mile and called it Kamishak. Vancouver nanwd it Shaw's Island. The geographical positicm of Cape Douglas is latitude .W .").!', and longitude 15;P l(i'; V'ancouver iilaced it iu latitude o'.P .">2' ; from it Cape JCIi/a- beth btnirs north 71° east, distant forty-seven miles ; the western point of the Bar- ren Islands, east thirty miles; and l*oint Banks south 0.5'^ east, thiny-two miles j 180 ALASKA COAST PILOT. and the eastern side of the Ishiud of Augustiu north 9° west, distant twenty-eight niik'H. The (h'tnilcd description of Cook's Inlet will be made of the eastern shore first, Ix'ginning at the southward. POUT CHATHAai. This is the first h.arbor inside Cook's Inlet on the western shores of the Eenai IVninsuIa, and the southern point of its approaches may be said to be formed by Cape Elizabeth ; it opens to the southwest. Vancouver gives a plan of it a hick has been copied by Tebeukott". From that cape, nuvrked by a small islet oflf it, the southwest point of the inner entrance to the harbor bears north 45° east, distant five and a half miles, and a half mile before reaching that point there is a rocky t;atch marked by an islet. Inside the entrance the harbor extends about three miles east, and has an average Avidth of one mile. The passage into it, after leaving Cape Elizabeth, is free from all obstructions but such as are sufficiently conspicuous or easily avoided. These c(»nsist ])riiu'ii)ally of shoals that extend a little distance from each point of the harbor. Even between the islet and rocky patch southwest from the south poinf of the entrance a passage exists that h..j from seven to twelve fathoms oi water. The soundings in general in I'ort Chatham are tolerably regular from five to twenty five fathoms; the bottom a stift'clay. The shores are in most places a low border, very well wooded with spruce and some shrubs. This border forms a nar- row margin between the shore and the foot of the moiuitain, up which to a certain height trees and plants grow ; but the tops of the mountains are covered with snow. (May 1794.) The anchorage on the south shore is one and a half mile inside the point in latitude 59° li', longitude 151° 42'.* The rise and fall of the tides near tlu^ changes of the moon is fourteen feet, and neaps about eleven feet, but they are greatly influenced by the force and direction of the winds. Vancouver considers this harbor, with reference to its proximity to the ocean, ease of access, egress, and convenient communication with the shores, superior to any in these regi'.ns. But he never examined Tchugatchik liay, where the cur- rents are not so uncertain and variable, where the bay is four or five miles wide, and especially where bright clear weather exists while the whole of the Cape Eliz- abeth region is in fog a'ld drizzle, llussian and American captains give the pref- eren(!e to the northern bays. Three miles northeast by north from Cape Elizabeth, under the north point of the approaches to Port Chatham, is a snudl indentation of the low shore in the eastern i»art of the point, open to the southeast, and three and a half miles north- east by north from Vi\\m Elizabeth. Tlu^ entrance is narrow, and two rocky shoals extend a «iuarter of a mile oH" each point towards the southeas*. The cove itself is about a mile deep, and Tebenkort" i)laces soundings of five and six fathoms at the * Anliiinaiiilritott' n'l'ics Tort Clmthum in liititudo 69° lU'.r., loiigitlido 151" 4!i'.G, but (Iimw liol HiHfiiy tin; liK'iility. • "^^iii ALASICA COAST PILOT. 181 cntnince. Portlock's longboat anchored hero in 1780, an«l notes live, four and seven fathoms of water over a muddy bottom. The extreme western part of tho cove is a Hat, and a small stream enters tlie northern part. It is named Uefnge Cove. Tuget anchored hero in the Chatham, when searching for a harbor, in thick fog with strong westerly winds. lie says that when at tJie entrance " they felt tho influence of a very strong flood tide from the eastward, through the channel be- tween the Chugach Islands and tho peninsula, and the conflict of currents there- from appeared like breakers, extending nearly half-way across tlio entrance into the cove; and although tho depth was not less than fourteen fathoms, yet so vio- lent was tho agitaticm that the cabin windows were obliged to be secured by tho dead-lights. The appearance of the cove was favorable, and the vessel worke- inunediato point as low and wooded, with the mountains rising high about three miles to the eastward. No elevation is given of the heigiit of the mountains in this vicinity, but Puget made bearings upon it at a distance of sixty-three miles. Along the imuunliate shore of the point are laid down a few rocks. Thirty fath- oms are given tour miles west of the point. Archinuindritotl' i)lai'es i'oint IJede in latitude 51)° lii'.n, longitude l')l° .W.tJ. Olf this point the ebb current sets from the north, by compass, at the rate of two knots per hour; the flood sets from the south, and runs nearly at tho same rate ; the rise and fall of the tide is re- ported at fourteen feet. For live miles beyond Point Bede the shore runs about northeast by east to tho south point of the Clraham Ilarbor of Portlock, (the English harbor of the llussians.) *■ ' .'■*',•' aitAlIAM OH ENOLISH IIARUOU.* Five miles northeast bj- east from Point Bede lies tiie southwest ])oint of tlie entrance to this harbor, wliich opens to tho westward. Tiie foUowing desciiption is drawn up from a manuscript sketch of the harbor by otticers of tho Itussiun* ^NiiiiK'd (ii'iili: ilmbor liy I'urthK'k in 17H(i; kiinwii liy tlic UiimiaiiN uh KiikIIhIi lliii'lior. 182 ALASICA COAST PILOT. Anu'ricaii Coinpiiny. In it are laid down rocks that have been recently discov- ered. Tlie entrance to the liarbor is formed by Dangerous Cajie (Cape Opasiioi) on the north, and Hnssian Point on th(( sonth, tlie former lying north 18° east, two and a (luaitcr miles from the Alexander trading post on the latter. A rocky reef extends one mile northwest from Dangerous Caite, and detached rocks with inter- Aening deep passages stretch ont three-qnarters of a mile soutiiwest from the same cajjc. Tebenkoll has a detached rock higli above water, just west of the rocky ;eef ott' Dangercms Cape. From linssian Point an extensive shoal makes broad off the shores of the above beach for one mile, with part of it, jnst nnder the point, bare at half tide. Tlie general direction of the bay is south 62° east for four and a half mile" ; then south-southeast for two miles, eiuling, however, in very extensive miul Hats, receiving several small streams, which Portlock entered with his boat at high water. One nule within the entrance, and nearly in the middle of the bay, lies Pas- sage Island, about half a mile long in the direction of the bay, and a quarter of a mile broad. Abreast of the inner part of this island the harbor contracts to one mile in width, maintaining that width for the luixt three miles. From the southwestern point of Passage Island a long reef extends over a mile west-southwest, nearly across the south channel to Kussian Point, oft" which a very narrow passage exists, which Portlock says he exami ed and found plenty of water. The passage on the north side of the island is the better one, with rocks off each point for a i!ouple of hundred yards, but leaving a cnannel of live hundred yards wide, with seventeen fathoms of water over a nuuldy bottom. Portlock examined the south passage and found plenty of water, but it is much narrower than the northern one. The Eussian chart places it only two cable's length north of Ilussiau Poijit, and only one cable wide at the narrowest p(»int. In entering this bay by the north channel Portlock says he found a "strong outset current, although the tide was Hood," and upon leaving it " with the flood tide was carried out very rapidly by currents to the northward past Dangerous Cape." He says the best time for entering this harbor is near low water, as the rocks then show themselves, or the kelp discloses their position. Three-3 west one mile from the north point of Passage Island. A vil- lage is located on the small stream in the southeast part of the cove. This harbor is the one where coal was first discovered on this coast by Porthn-k, and the anchor- age close under the north point was named Coal Bay by him. lie gives a sket(;h of the harbor and a view exhibiting the h)cality of the coal seams. A second cove, twice as large as Coal Bay, lies one mile south-southeast from the latter, with good anchorages in ten to fifteen fathoms of water. The; northern shores of this cove, whicili is about three-quarters of a mile wide, are bold and rocky, and guarded by rocks, but at the liead of it there is a fine smooth beach, near which is a run of good water. Another opening, close under the point at the south, is the entrance to a salt-water lagoou or lake, called Selenic Lake. Hero Porthxik reports wood of dilierent kinds in gieat abnndaiuie, such as pine, (spruce,) black birch, witch hazel, and poplar. Many of the pines are largo enough for lower masts of vessels of four huiulred tons, and in every jtlace were l»lants and shrubs of uniny varieties growing with great strength and vigor. The latitude of the village in Cove Bay is given by Archimandritotl'as o!P 'iP, and the longitude 15^ 40' 18", the latter depending ni)on the Cnitcd States Coast Survey determination of Sitka. At the Alexander trading post the latitude is r»!P L'l' 50", longitude 151° 52'. The variation of the compass is stated to have been aOO east in 1848. No data are given for the time of high water and the rise and fall of tides, which may be a sumed to bo nearly those of Port Chalmers. xiiere is a Itussian station and an Aleutian village on Russian Point, ami a " pleasant piece of land about two hundred yards wide stretduis southward and westward of this point for one mile, bordered by a good sandy beach on one sichf, and on the inside by a small lake of fresh water, which empties itself into the sea" threc-nuarters of a mile from the station. This lake or lagoDU is one of a chain of lakes reaching well inland. This "beach terminates at each Ciul in higii points of land, which form a snug bay where small craft might lie with safety." Portlock says he " found Chatham Harbor a most excellent one iinU'cd, with great ph'iity of wood everywhere and several fine runs of water. The eastern side afftn-ds gi-eat abundance of juue, black birch, witch imzel, and poplar, which grow close to the beach ; plants and shrubs of various sorts were growing with great strength and vigor, (.lime 21 17M(i.) "The harbor terminates in a fresh-water river that blanches out in several directions; they were filled with salmon, which the bears came ih>wn to feed upon. Bears were plenty; he raw over twenty in an houi-. 184 ALASKA COAST PILOT, "Tlicre are scvoral projecting points on each side of the harbor that form very snug and good bays, witli excellent beaches, whore a ship may be laid on with the K«f i>te«t safety ; the depth of water close to the beach being seven and eight fathoms." From the entrance to Graham Ilarbor the direction to Anchor Point is north, and the distance twenty-seven miles, forming the broad gnlf to the month of Clmgachik Bay. Tlie general direction of the coast line from Graham Harbor to the head of this bay is north 50° east, and distance thirty-nine miles, this course being very nearly that of the south shore of the gulf and bay. Six and a half miles northeast by east of Dangerous Cape is the opening to the north of a small bay with shallow water, but anchorage is had close under the western pcsint in four or five fathoms. According to Tebenkoff's chnrt, there is six fathoms in the entrance of the bay, which is about three miles long, north and south, and two-thirds of a mile wide. Rocks are laid down on the manuscriiit chart close to each point, which are represented as bold and rocky. On Tebenkoflf the points lie east ami west of each other, but on the manuscript chart they lie i»)rtheast and southwest of each other. It is the Selidevoi of the llussiau charts. Three miles east-northeast of the eastern point of the latter bay is a bold, rocky point, forming the southwestern point of the entrance to a broad bay full of islaiuls, with a long arm penetrating some miles to the southeast, but unexplored. Twenty-live ftithoms are noted in the entrance, and anchorages designated close under the western point. It is named Tutke Bay by Tebeukoff. OHUGACniK BAY.* Twenty-eight miles north 43° east from Point Bede, twenty-two miles north 4r>o east Irom Dangeroiis Cape,t and twenty miles south .503 east from Anchor Point,t lies the north point of the entrance to the inner Chugachik Bay. The north point of the entrance to the bay, named Coal Point, is low, three miles long, and over half a mile wide, stre*^ching from the north shore half-way across the entrance in a southeast half east direction. In approaching this point the niainiserii)t chart locates two sunken rocks that are almost in the mitldle of the approaches to the bay. The lirst one bears south 60° west, five and a half miles from the extremity of Coal Point, and the second south 59^ west, distant two and three-quarter miles from the same. Tebeukoff does not give them on his chart. Close off the point ten and Hfteen fathoms are given, and twentj'-seven in the middle of the entrance. *On Nome Riissiiin I'liarts Kotthckiimk IJay; in Teb('iikott''s niiiTiitivc Cliu^iicliik, or Kiitchet- niiik Hay. tTlirso arc llio distances and positions by TclienkolV; but a niannscriiit chart of the Rnssian- Amorican l'(iini)any makes tlie distance and direction from Danfjcroiis nineteen and a balf miles nortli 54^ cast ; ami from Anclior Point t wenty-ono miles south 5(1"' east. There wouhl appear to l)e au error of meridian line. On the manuscript chart the bearings between Kussinn and Anchor I'oiuts are the same, l)ut fho distances, thirty miles ou Tcbenkotf, and twenty-seven in mauuscript; the (letuils look more natural in the manuscript, and will he followed in the ilcscription. ALASICA COAST PILOT. IKT From this point the bay has a jjpneral direction north 47° oast for nin<'toou miles to the head, but the last four miles are oeeupied by a broad tlat, with an islet in it, althoufjh Tebenkotf gives four fathoms around this islet, with two pina- clo roeks on its northern side. This tlat carries a broad margin along the whole northwestern sliore, even to Coal I'oint. (Ugolinoi.) Along the inside of this tongue or point the bea«'h or Hat extends lu-arly half- way to the extremity, contracting the bight where good anchorage is had in seven fathoms, mud, one mile inside the point, where it bears south, one mile distant, and nearly the same distance from the bea«;h, but still leaving it about one and three- quarters of a mile in extent, with seven fathoms of water. TTi)on this tongue, abreast of the broad boach or tlat, is a long, narrow lagoon. Outside of the point, to the northward, is a broiid beach for some miles to the northwest. Inside this tongue of land, and abreast the anchorage, there is Ibund an extensive coal seam, seven feet thick, and not worked by the Itussian-American Comi)any, because it opens upon the beach at low tide, and will require outlay of capital to develop and work it. This, or similar seams, crops out on the shore between the bay and Anchor I'oint in two places for an extent of several miles; and again northward of Anchor Point. From Coal Point three miles south 75° east there is an islet joined to the southern shore by a low sand tongue; this decreases the actual width of the entrance of the bay. East of that islet are two or three coves, but no sountlings are given for them, except at the entrance of the second, where twenty-seven fath- oms is laid down in the approaches. Tiie geographical position of the extremity of Coal Point is latitude .W 37' 10", and longitude 151° '22! 10", according to a recent Ilussian manuscript chart. Tebenkoff states the position to have been determined by Archimandritort", who found the latitude oOo jjo/.o^ longitude 1.51° 1>(»'.;{. From Cofil Point the coast runs nearly straight for twenty-one miles n(Hth .'ioo west to Anchor Point, in latitude 5!)° ol', longitude 151° 53'. The climate of this bay is much preferable to that at Grahain harbor. Russian and American navigators report that they have anchored here and had ch-ar, l)eau- tiful weather, while they could see the thick, heavy niasses of fog and rain w and undnhiting and covered with wood for twenty wiles, to the foot of the mountains, fonniuf^ the ba<'khone of the Kenai PeninsHhi. Tiie shore, towards Coal Point, of Chugachik Pay stretches south 50° east for twenty-two miles, and towards the head of the inlet it runs north 21° east forty-six miles to the mouth of the Kaknu. Five miles towards Coal I'oint Tebenkoff lays down the (Mitranee of a small stream. From the point the cone of the active vol- cano Iliamna lies north 72'^ west, forty miles distant, and volcano Redoubt north 31o west, forty-five miles. The iidet at this point is twenty-five miles across, with a stronjj current on the ebb and fiood; Cook says he found three or four knots an honr, on ebb, setting southward. ITe was then at anchor off the point in twenty-one fathoms, Imving let ft" iiii anchor to save the vessel from drifting out. Tebenkotf gives twenty-two fathoms, sandy bottom, fou'' or five miles to the westward, and eight or nine miles south 70° west from the i)oint are iiTcgnlar soundings from thirteen to twenty fathoms. I'ortlock says : Anchor Point, bearing north 33° east five miles, had twenty fathoms nx'ky bottom; In^ anchored in mid-channel with Anchor Point bearing south 3()o east, and had thirty fathoms, with a current running four knots per hour, ebb setting from north by east and tlood from south by west, and at half tide it ran nearly five knots an hour. Cook named the point from the circumstance of losing an anchor in twenty-one fathoms, mud, nine miles west of it. On the coast eight miles northward of Anchor Point, in latitude 59° 58', Teben- kotf has a stream called the River Staritchkoff. Grewingk places this nnder a cape called Staritchkoff, with a hill nnirking its i»osition. The stream runs northward for three or four miles close to and parallel to the shore and opening out under this cape. (Jrewingk calls the stream Stak-Tali-Chin and the cap(i Stak-Tali-Chak.* Thence the shore is a little higher for ten miles to Cape Xinilochik or Sanif (Grewingk) with a stream emptying just north of it. Tebenkoff has two streams and two mouths. Grewingk says two streams emptying by one mouth; the south- ern one the Chaik Chak, the nort'«ern one with a village on the Mnnima. Twenty-eight miles from Anchor Point, in latitude 00° IC, a shoal makes out from the coast line about two miles, it is Ninilochik Shoal and is the southern part of the great shoal lying north of the Kaknu River, according to Tebenkoff. Over this shoal, in latitude 00° 2-1', empties the river Kasilof on the north side of a cape of the same name. This- river is continued but a short distance inland by Teben- koff, but (irewingk gives its course a little south of east to the lake at the base of the Kemii I^lountains. This body of water is cpiite large and is called the Tustu- mena Lake. Upon it open from the eastward two large glaciers, and the overlook- ing mountains are covered with perpetual snow. The natives are said to use the •Grt'wiiiRk cannot hp rolicd upon; his information woo from Bccond and third liaudH in uU fiws. — Dam.. AliASKuV COAST I'lLOT. 187 stroain to reach the head of Itesuirectioii Hay, on the euwteru shores of the Keiiai Peuiiitsuhu The cape on the south side of this stream is Kasilof. Abreast of this slioal lies the island and shoal of Kalfjin, only nine miles west, witii a ehannel l)et\V(M'n the shore and the island, having from six to lltteeu fathoms and lying nearly north and south. KAKNU UIVEU. ' " ' On the east shore of Cook's Inlet the month of the Kaknn ojjens in latitmio 00° '32'.'2, longitude 151° 19'.;J; the entrance is about one-onit of St. Chrysostom Hay, the East Foreland bears north 17° west, ten miles, and the north end of Kal>;in Island south H7° west sixteen or seventeen miles. Vancouver jjives the latitude 00° 43', longitude l.ioo 41'. Malakoif, about JS.'M, observed the latitude 00° 43', and longitude 151° li7'.3, and this is used by TebenkolV. The country behind the East Forelaiul is represented as low for twelve or fifteen miles to the foot of the numntains. (Jrewingk calls this Cai»e Mikischkin, or Tueaii Tan ; Portlo«'k calls it the South Foreland. From this cape the general direction of the shore, as well as the iidet, is north "mO east for thirty-six miles to Point Possession, but nearly the whole of this shore is bounded by an immense rocky shoal. Three miles east northeast from the extremity of the F^ast Foreland is the southwest Doint of a broad, shallow bay, ojteninK towards the southeast, and bounded ( ii the northeast by the sr of conical rocks, detached from each other, in a bank of sand and snuiU stones, that extended a league and upwards from shore. These rocks arc of ditlerent elevations, and as few of them are of sufficient height to appear above the surface at high water, the navigating of this shore, with such rapid tides, re(piires to be undertaken with the greatest caution. "The utmost circumspection was required to conduct the boats clear of the dangerous |>yramiilal rocks, rising peri)endicularly from a base at a depth of four to nine fathoms, and perfectly steep on every side within the distance of a boat's length." The western part of this shoal is supposed to extend northwest about six or eight miles to the middle of the channel to the north shore; although it is probable that a channel exists through the sho.al, none has been traced out. POINT POSSESSION. This is a low point, well Avooded, near the head of the inlet, where it termi- nates in two branches. There is dee)) water close to the point. Turnagain Arm, or lliver, stretches nearly east-southeast for thirty-six miles, of which distance * iSee \>revio«H note on (irt'wingk. — Daij,. ALASKA COAST PILOT. IHi) the furtlior lialf Ih oociipiod by ll.its, bare at low wattT, but baviiif; from four to five fatlioins at hiyh water. Two niiles iiortbcaHt of tliu point is the soiilliwest oxtieinity of a threat shoal eoiniiifj from Cape Canipbell, lyint; seven and a half miles north 77° west from the |M>int, and forminf,' the northwest iniint of the en- tranee to Tiirmipiin Arm, and the southeast extremity of the point of entrance to the Uiver Knilve. The mouths of the Sut(!hitii.a Rivor Ho about fourteen miles to the north- northwest, while the North Foreland is twenty miles due west. TIDES OFF POINT POSSKSSION. Tebenkofl' Rives twenty-seven feet rise and fall of tide; the eurrents run four to five knots, and in spring, when the ice breaks away, it is dangerous navigation for any vessel. Cook took " possession " of the country at this point, and heneegave it the name; he deposited a bottle, &c., which Vancouver seanthed for in vain. Cook's map places the point in latitude 01° 05'; it is in 01° 03', (longitude 149° 12',) HC(!ording to Vancouver. Malakotf gives it 01° (Ki'.'>, longitude I.">0o '2't'.'t, which is the position on Tebenkort', who calls it Cape Naselenia, (settlement.) TURNAGAi:^ ARM. This is the Tumagain River of Cook, and stretches from Point Possession thirty-six miles east-southeast; at high water it has a width of eight to ten miles for about eighteen miles to a sudden contra<;tion of two or three n* width, thence it has an average width of four miles, but is bare at low water. The main channel runs in nearly a straight line from Point Possession to the southern point at the throat of the arm, with an average depth of six or seven fathoms. The shores of this wide i)art of Turnagain Arm form a biiy on each side at high water, but they could not be approached on account of the. shallow Hat that extends from the land on the northern side for three to five miles, and on the southern side about half that distance; between whi<;h is a i-in;; th« nuked sides of these inecipices awfully fjrand ; on their tops yrew a few stunti'd jtine trees, but they weri' nearly «U'stitutc of every other veyetaltle ]iroduetion. Tiu^ tide at this situation rose thirty feet perpendicularly, so that at low water tho arm must be dry or nearly so." (V'ancMtuver May 17!(4.) At the throat or inner points Vancouver says the northeast point lies north 4U° east, three and three-4,) forming the southwest point of the river, is in latitude fiio oh', longitude 14!»o 24' by Vancouver, 150° 07' of Tebenkotf. Point Mackenzie is the northeast point, so called by Vancouver, and bears about uiMtheast from Woronzo, distant two miles, with twenty to thirty-three fath- oms of water between them. Thence the general direction of the river to its con- traction is northeast to latitude (M° 28', longitude 14{)o 32'. His position was in latitude 01° 17', longitude 14!P 5.S', (Tebenkoff;) rise and fall of spring tides about twenty-soveu feet, and high water O/i. after moon liad passed the meridian. Tho magnetic variation was 20° 30' in Jlay 1794. The river has a general direction to the northward, and Tebenkott" says the traders, following the Kaik, reach Lake Plavejno, (latit)ule 02° 10', longitude 14!)°,) and thence, ascending the Tlischy- tue River, arrive at Copper River. Grewingk has a post, NUchta, at the contrac- tion of the Knik, to where Vancouver exi)lored. Vancouver anchored in the lower part of the river, where he got seven fathoms, and was in great danger from driv- ing ice. From Point Woronzo the shore to Point Campbell (named by Vajicou- ver) runs south 19° west for four miles. Cook says nuich low, flat land borders the inlet from the east point of the river to the northwest, and that a great cpiau- tity of fresh water flowed into the inlet. He gives the rise and fall of the tide twenty feet. Vancouver says of the country bordering the river to the limit of his explora- tion : " The shores we passed were «'ompact. Two or three small streams of iresh water flowed into the branch l)etween low, steep banks; above these the surface • I'roiiouuced kni'cjk, from tUi' EHijuimuux imiiio for lire. AI-ASKA COAST IMUiT. 191 was nearly Hat, niid fouiitl ii sort of plain on which there was no snow , anil hut very tew trees. Tills plain stretclied to tlu> loot of a eonnected Ixxly of nionntains, whicli, exeeptinfi hetween tlie west and nort Invest, wen« not v«>ry remote; and oven in that 0° 30' and 1 noo 3!)', according to Malakott'. It has a shoal broad oft' "ts mouth, and no navi},'able channel is laid down throufih this shoal, although it is doubtless accessible at hijjh water, and probably at low tides. The eastern point lies north by west twelve miles from Point Possession, and northeast l»y east twenty -one miles from the North Fore- land. On either side the country is low and Hat, and covered with wood. Be- tween it and the Knik there is a raufje of hijih mountains, and at the west- ern side a hijfh mountain, seen by Vanr, may be duo to imperfections in the original survey, and not to subsequent elevation. Captain Riedell, of the bark Constantine, states that in t^" inner portion of the south harbor of Ounga Isiand, one of the Shumagins, Avhe, ^ he had previously obtained four fathoms, muddy bottom, after the slight earthquake shock of May, 1808, he sounded, obtaining only four feet in the same i)lace. The lower jiortion of the harbor retained, howcA'cr, abundance of Avater. Careful and oxacit charts of given localities are needed to determine with acciu'acy the rate of the gradual elevation. VOLCANIC ACTION. The A'iolence of the A'oleanic forces in Alaska is undoubtedly diminishing, Avhile occasional shocks of earthquake are felt, and active volcaiuK's exist in the Aleutian chain of islands. IMany formerly actiAC have become quiet or "extinct," the shocks are less A'iolent and less frequent than formerly, and no ernjjtion has taken ])lace i'or many years. Grewingk enumerates some fifty volcanic ])eaks, most of which have been active since the Ilussian oc(Jupaiion, or bear the evident traces of recent activity. Of these at present eleven only are known to be active by emitting flame or smoke. Kartlupiakc shocks are light, but not uncommon, particularly among the Aleutian Islands. Sluxiks are said to be more common in the month of October than at otiu'r times. In the Kavi-iak Peninsula, north of Norton Sound, terra- neous disturbances iire rare. The natives reported such in 1S.")4 and 1802, In August 1807, a perceptible shock was felt at the Ilussian ]\Iis; sea, and subsecpienfly to have been thrice submerged. Vide (Jrcwiiigk, p. 277 el xeq., nuU riutos IV and V. . ALASKA COAST TILOT. l'J5 OLAClAi ACTION. For o]>i)ortiniities of stiulying the ijlionoiiiona of fjlaciation, Ainoriciui stu- dents need no lonj;er turn to the Alps. From Unto Inh't ti> Ouniiuak Puss, almost every deep ^jorfje of considerable size between tin' lii),di mountains, for M'hich this coast is so remarkable, has at its head a gl 'cier, or the remains of one. Some of these Khicier?, are of extraordiiuiry size and fjrandeur. Tiie ice, broken from their overhanjj;ing terminations, has jjfiven rise to such nani(\s as ley Strait and Icy Day; and smaller frafjrnuMds, concealed by the adherent mud and stones, Lave in several instances been taken for i)erinanent rocks by the earlier luu f^at- ors. The (niestion naturab/ arises, to what extent have the {flaidcrs aided in i>ro- diiciny the extraordinary system of fiords which characterizes this coast? Or is that sy.stem due to other causes, and are the fflaciers merely incidental ? If the excavation of these innumerable channels and inlets is due to f,dacial action, we shall luiturally look for unmistakable evidences of the fact in the grinding and polishing of the harder rocks which remain; the denudation in great part of the softer and more friable ones; the transimrtation of large (pnintities of material, and its deposition olf the present coast line, in submarine moraines of •which the .soundings .should give evidence. The ice power which woidd excavate a channel llfty fathoms deep would leave no uiutertaiii or dubious evidences behind it. If, on the other hand, we do not look to glacial action for a solution of the problem, we may suggest the hypothesis, that the sanw^ power which riiised the Coast ranges to their stupendous height; which lifted uj) the peaks of Crillon, Fairweather, and St. Elias; at the same time upheaved the strata on either siuitains, woiihl not have been exempt from ghicial action. Tlireo years' exploration, with a stronj,' disposition to (h'Veh)p the facts of tiie ease, faih'il to obtain on the shores of Norton Sonntl, or ill Uw vaUey of the Yonkon, any evidence whatever of sneh action. Once only wer(! polished rocks i^iet with, and they proved on examination to be " slickeii- sides;" while no instances of transi)orted materials, scratches, bonlders or moraines, were anywliere met with. The rolling and moderately elevated char- acter of the (!onntry does not favor the development of local glaciers, such as now exist on the more southern coasts of Alaska. The soft tertiary strata everywhere, though broken, contorted and aoitietimes metamorphosed, ar'3 not denuded, except from the evident local action of local gla- ciers. But little has been learned so fiir in regard to the rate of motion, and other circumstances connected with the magnificent glacier system of the coast ranges of British Columbia and Alaska. A road, built across one of the glaciers of Bute Iidet by Mr. Waddington, of Victoria, was noticed to have moved some ten feet out of line during the Avliiter season, when the road builders returned in the spring. No regular observations have been made, however. That the majority of the glaciers are decreasing in size, and hence that the climate is becoming dryer or warmer, is evident. The glaciers of Bute Inlet and the Stikine have notably receded, leaving their tracks unmistakably evident. The erosive iu;tion of the glaciers is comparatively small; from some of them issue streams of Wiiler nearly pure* and they do not give rise to any v«!ry extensive shoals off the coast. Quite different is the case with the rivers. The Stikine, the Copi)er, tlui Suschitno, all bring down quantities of detritus, aJinually altering, to solium extent, the coast line in the immediate viianity of their embouchments. North of the jM-uinsula of Aliaska this river action is going on in a far grander manner. The Nushergak, Kuskocpiim, and Yonkon Kivers annually dis- charge froiu their mouths immense quantities of earthy matter, Avhich is deposited ill the Hue mud which replaces in Behring Sea the black volcanic sand which comes up on the lead, south of tlu» islands. This mud has formed the largest sub- marine plati'au with so slight a depth of water in the world, covering two-thirds of Behring Sea, and even extending for an indefinite distaTice through and beyond Behring Strait. A deep sea vallej' exists, however, on the west side of Tk'iiring Sea, between the Alaska plateau and the shoals of Anadyr Gulf, culiiiinatiiig in the 11' )uth of Plover r>ay, Eastern Siberia.t When the spring freshets of the Youkon come down, the water is laden with blocks of ice, each of which transports its share of jiebbles, earth, and sand ; the current, twelve to twenty fafhoms deep, in places, tears away with resistless vio- ' Si'd Wliymiicf, 1). '27. t ('a])t:iiii KInIi, 4)f the Avhaliii^ brig ViitDliii, vi'imitH lii'ii' jUi in the mimth ol' tli« I'li.v ; iiiiil j" 'irthfv up, Iiy W. U. T. Exii. ALASIfA COAST TILOT. 197 lonoe alluvial banks I'orined years before and eanies them alonfj, dejiositinfj tlieni little by little, tiiiia eliaiifjinfj annually its dninnel and depth of water, enttinj^ away islands and forming new cues, and lessening slowly, but surely, the depth of water in IJehring Sea. I have notieed, ou exposed banks, one hundred and thirty annual layers of earth and vegetable matter, in a depth of alluvium of only six feet. Should the elevation of the laud and the annual dei)osition of earthy nmterial continue, geologically the time is not far distant when a great part of liehring Sea may become dry land, and Asia be joined imto America. AGE OF TUE FORMATIONS. In the absence of any information to the contrary, what little we possess being favorable, wo may assume provisionally the hyi)othesis that the northern extensions of the coast and Rocky Mountain rang(> in Alaska were elevated at the same geological period as their more southern portions, probably near the end of the triassic period.* At only one point in the territory have older rocks been definitely identified, viz: at Cape Lisburiu', on the Arctic coast, where IJeeehey obtained fossils from carboniferous linu'stone.t At the bay <»f Katmai, ])eninsnla of Aliaska, Wassuessensky obtained Jurassic fossils, which arc described and figured by Grewingk.| The cretaceous strata which abound in California and on Vancouver Island have not as yet been definitely traced into Alaska. It is (piite possible that some of tlie numerous coal beds of the archi])elago may pntve to be of tlii.-i age. The most characteristic fossiliferous strata of Alaska are those of tertiary age, some of which have been decided to be miocene. Tiiese beds, oft^^n brokcMi, contorted, or metamorphic, are found ou the flanks of the (roast mountains, and have been identified from various points in tlie Alexander Archipelago, ("ape S|)encer, Prince William Stnnd, Cook's Inlet, and along the peninsula of Aliaska, and most of the Fox Islands, and even on St. Paul of the Pribylotf group. North of this, the first authentic locality is on Norton Sound, wheie we find the tertiary (miocene) strata coming to the st^a, between the amygchiioid basaltic, kva of St. Mirhael'sand tlu' aeared to bo nnocene,§ but the basalt and lava which extend from the Youkon, at the Itus- sian Mission, to the sea m'nv St. Jlichacl's may be, and probably arc, more rc<'cnf. llemains of pliocene animals, such as the fossil elephant, (i(7(;/j/(«« j}rimitifiiiu)i,)\\ * I'idf Whitiu-y, (tcoliiny <>f t'lilii. tOri'whi^k, |>|>. HS iiiiil 'i'i. \. n. 'I'lii' <'iiiil iit Cape Ifi'init'nit iiia.v 1m' ol'ciiilionilriims n^c. t (iicwiu^k, II. "JTl, |il. IV. vS I''.iTim('onHl.v ic|H(rt('(l ciirltniiit'croiiN. i'loc. Calii. Aiml. Sri., |H(>»J, |i. :t4. ||S('i' OKUMiliifty oCtllH vojagi' nl'tlir Ifciald, I'lolcMwir I). I"iirlir». 198 ALASKA COAST TILOT. the bi.son, {B. prhcmf and B. ernttsieornin), the musk-ox, (orihos moschaius,) and the Ib.s.sil hoi'sc, (J-J. J'oKsilis,) are t'oiiiid over the whole Youkou valley, but jiaitieularly labuiulaiit iu Escholtz 15ay on tlie luglulalik, and ou the Kotlo river. Beds of marl, composed of fresh-water shells siniilur to those living iu adjacent lakes, are found near I-'ort Youkon. Th(^ most important of these formations to the navigator (u- manufacturer is the tertiary. In it arc found those coal veins of which more detailed mention is made in previous parts of this volume. Tlu^se deposits arc widely distributed, coal having' been reported from many localities since the acipiisitiou of the Territory. Tlie coal is tertiary, (some of it possibly cretaiicous), and, like most tertiary coals, is infeiior to the carboniferous coals both in (pndity and thickness of seams. The annexed table will show at a glance the comparative value and coinpositiou of the coals of the dirt'erent formations on the west coast of America and the best carboniferous coals of renn.sylvauia and England. Anah/scsofcoal. . Locality (»f the coal. I'iltHburK, I'l'iiiiBylvaiiiii Ornmliy, IViiiiHylvania KrnllK'ky Tj«'lii;;li, ecnnMylvaiiia Xl'Wi'UHllt', Kii;;;lail(l Xanaiino, Vanrmivcv'H iHlaiitl Jtrlliti;;tiani Hay Mount Diablo, Califoruia, UoHt blai'k ilijimoiid. (%>o«(' Hay, Oi'i';i»n Carlinii Stutioii. J ,, . , ., , > Pacilu^ railiciad A\ rbci- liivi'V, J Cook's luli't, Alaaka MoiBturc. rixoil carbou. s i 1 s AhIi. Sulphur. 9.;« 4. (HI 3.0(1 9. M 0. !I0 66., "Hi ,10. 01 W. (I,-) 61. -0 34. 31 26. «3 ,17. en 2.04 33.. 15 7.10 9, .11) 4.10 0. (ifl 3.7.1 1 ? 0.2.-1 Cbiuactcr. Hitiiniinous. llttiiiaiiKiuH, Caiini'l. A ithi'a. \io. BiliiitiiiiDiia. 2.fl8 a 3ft 14.69 46. 31 4.V (I!) 46. N 21). 00 11.00 0.43 1.25 41. OH .11.(17 26. 91 40. 80 32. l(i 18. .15 ? 33. 90 12. (il! » 33.89 4.58 i ,39. 50 ,1. 34 1 27. 68 6.17 2.00 ,18. 32 3.04 9.40 39.87 7.88 1.90 l.ij:uitic. Li;:iiitir. Ligiiitic. Lit'iiilir. I.ik'iiilic. I.ijiii'lii'. Lipiitio. The above table shows at a glance, better than any di'scription could do, the .superior ipiality of the Cook's Inlet coal, not only over all ilie mioceue coals, but also over all the cretaceous coals of the Pacific slope.* Anthracitt' has b(>en several times reported from vi>rious parts of Alaska. It is probable that the specimens collected may owe their quality to local metanio. pliism of the rocks by heat rather than to the general character of any large de- posit. The Cook's Inlet coal, it will be noted, contains only t)..'57 per cent, less * Till' iiMiily.scs 111" the Al;isk;i coiil nit- due to I'lot'r.ssiir .1. S, Xiixvln'iiy of tlic ."^t'liool of Mini's, Coliiiiildii (.'nlli'jji', New Yolk, iiiid Sditc (;('oloj;ist of Oliio. ]'nifi«sor NcwlH'iiy is i'Xci'HimI liy iioiii) ill liis kiio\vl('il;{H of tlic tertiary coiil-lii'iiriiifj lU'iiositM of tlii^ I'liitcd .Stiitcs, iiiiil suy.s: "Tliis cdiil iN fully I'lpial to any foiird on tln> west coiist, iiol cxci'iitiiin tlio.sr of Viiiicoiivcr iNliind and IK'lliiiK ham Hay." For the utio of tliu an«ly»f» I iiiii iiidi'hti'dto ilic .Siiiithsoiiiaii bmtitiition. ALASKA COAST TILOT. 11)9 eombnstiblo inattor, and only 0.00 per cent, more asli than pood rittshiirjif bitu- minous coal, \vhi<"li ditlVuMicoi is fully niad»' up by the 1.00 per cent, more wattr which exists in the latter. The amount of sulpinu' is less than in eitlier of the two best tertiary coals on the line of the Pacific; railroad, and the amount of moisture is less than in any other American coal tabulated. The discoverers of these outcrops of coal nuist recollect, however, that the viilue of coal is not due to its (juality alone. Connnerciaily speaking, a vein of coal less than three feet thick (of clear coal) is of very little value, excei)t for local use. The dip of the strata, its faults or foldiufjs, the solid or (iinnblin;;; character of the superincumbent strata, the distance from a market, and f facilities for mining, shippiuf?, and transportation; all these an^ as important in determining the value of a de])osit as the character of the coal itself. Among the other mineral products of Alaska of this age is i)etroleum. This is found floating on the surface of a lake near tht; bay of Katmai, Aliaska Peninsula. It is of the specific gravity of l.'.j'^, (Deaunu',)* (piitc odorless, and, in its crude state, an excellent lubricator for machinery of any kind. Talcose and chloritic slate with veins of (puirtz abomid in the island of Kadiak. An analysis of specimens of these rocks by Dr. Newberry shows only about H per ton, in gold and silver. He says in regard to them, however: "These speci- mens come from a system which at other points is i>rol>abIy much richer. The mineralogical diameter of the specimens is precisely that of the most [noductivo gold-bearing veins known, although silver will not be found in quantity in such an association of minerals." It is not imi)ossible that the gold-iieariug alluvium of Cook's Inlet, first examined by Do-'osehin, was derived, originally, from similar rocks, especially as the island of Kadiak is apparently a prolongation of the penin- sida of Kenai, on which the gold-bearing alluvial was found. The other minerals of which we have information, and which are liki'Iy to prove of value, may be briefly alluded to. Copper, in worn pagments, has long been received from the vicinity of Atna, or Copper Kiver. Nothing is known of the original locality, but the fragments appear, from their condition, to be derived from the refuse of glaciers, or from the beds of streams. The mineral is pure, and sometimes associated, as in Lake Supe- rior, with native silver. Carbonate of copper has been received from the Kuskoipiim liiver and the viciuitj^ of Cape Koinanzoff. Amber is common in the lignite deimsits on the i)enin- ila of Aliaska, ((Ire- wingk,) and I have obtained it from the alluvium in the delta of the Youkou. It is also found in the vicinity of most of the t4'rtiary coal deposits on the Fox Islands, and is an article of ornament with the natives who carve it into rude beads. Sul- phur exists near many of the volcanic c-ones of Aliaska. Localities on Ouiiimak, Kadiak and Uindaska islands, besich^ others, are mentioned by (Irewingk. It has long been in use, as a means of striking fire, among the natives. " Nowberrj7 B<ort of tho SmitUHouiiin luHtitutiuu ou Aliwliu miuuruU. 200 ALASKA COAST TILOT. flraphito is reported from Kadiiik; but speiiiinens of a mineral, mneh in uso by the Inilians, as paint, liavinf; all the appearance of Kiaphite, proved on exami- nation to be micaceous black oxide of iron. This was *rom the intericu- of the You- kou valley. Iron is distiibuted over the whole Territory, but none has been observed in quantities worth the trouble of workinjf. Ma},'netie oxide is not uncoiiimon. (ialeua la reported in minute quantities from Whale liay, about twenty miles south of Sitka,* and near St. Paul Harbor, Kadiak. Spinel exists in some (juantities on St. (;eor},'e's Island, in a decomposed bed of voU^anic rock, of a whitish color. The crystals are large, but dark and full of imperfections. (larnets are reported froni several localitios, particularly near Foit Simpson. I am inclined to thiidc that the magnificent beds of white marble reported by the ollicers of the Coast Survey, from near Sitka, will ultinuitely prove of great c«)mnu'rcial value, if the qimlity is uniformly as good as tlu- specimens obtained. Our knowledge of the geology, minerals and rocks of Alaska is extrenu'ly meager. It is to be hoped that our eiu'rgetic traders and trappers will enalde ns to increase it by collecting and transmitting specimens from clearly identilied localities. In this way onr stock of intbrmation may be ra[)idly enlarged, and the growth and prosperity of the new Territory promoted. WM. n. DALL, Geologist of ilie late Russian and American ( Western Union) Tele(jrai)h JJ^^icdition. Note. — Any points bearing on the glacier question being of interest, as tend- ing di'rtiiitely to settle that much-vexed problem, the following points are uoted as worthy of careful examination by all navigators who may be desirous of adding sonu'thing to the common stock of knowledge. AVe nuiy assume that, first, the general course of a continental or continuous coast-glacier will be parallel with the general slope of the coast, irrespective of local toitography to any material extent. Second, that as the excavations, rock, scratches, transportation of material, and so on, of course, Avill trend in the same line, consequently the terminal and other moraines, if any exist, will be found to cross the liue of general movement at right angles. Third, it has also been noticed that the snuiller hills, or mountains, which lay ..i the path of the New Eng- land glacier sheet, according to Yose and other geologists,! always have the side of the longest slope facing the direction from which the ice sheet came. Cilaneing on the chart at the Alexander Archipelago, let us examine this assemblage of islands, iidets, and canals, which iuv«riably, by superficial observers, Las been referred to the action of ice. We find the first assumption directly contradicted. The line of "excavation," *. T. A. lUalii". Ri'port on Goolojjy of Alaska to the United Stutcs Coast Survey, t Memoii'8 Uoston Society of Natural History. ALASKA COAST PILOT. 201 if we still feel disposed to nso tliat term, is at ri^lit angles to the wator-slied to tlie general slope of the coast mouiitivius, and to tUu coiu'su uf iiiaiiy uf the existing local {^Irteiers. Assiiiniiijj against reason, for the sake of arpfument, that this was the lino of movement of the glacier she»'t, (as it ninst hav«' been, if any existed,) we should, under the second assumption, look to find across the canals, at intervals, or at least in 86litary instances, bars or subnmrine moraines, composed of the detritus from the glacial sheet, at a time when the rate of melting was equal to its rate of progress, the termination, and point where the detritus was deposited, conse- quently remaining nearly stationary. If any nu('1i exist, which under the cir- cumstances we may reasonably doubt, the soundings woidd give une(piivocal evidences of it. It is perhaps needless to say that as yet we have no such inlbiina- tion. In regard to the third point, Mr. Davidson mentions in tlvs volume the fact that the abrupt side of the mountains is almost invariably the cast or north east side, which excludes the idea of a glacit'r sheet from any direction, t'xcept from the sea, but agrees well with the hypothesis of an upheaval coeval and par- allel with that of the coast ranges. It is therefore considered unnecessary to pursue the subject of a general glacier sheet any further, and it only remains to dis(!uss the indications by which we may determine the former extent and amount of iuHuence of the local ghu-iers. It h.as already been mentioned that the deposition of detritus, in the form of shoals, otf the largest known glaciers of this coast, is very small, especially when contrasted with that deposited by even the smaller rivers. The excavation of such immense inlets and channels by ice action would necessarily Ibrm large quantities of eroded material, which must, by its specific giiivity, have been deposited somewhere near the coast. Leaving the Alexander Archipelago for the head of the Gulf of Alaska, at Chugach (or Prince William) Sound and Cook's Inlet, the conformation of the bays and coast is such as to give an air of more probability to the theory of excavation by ice than that received from the asjjcct of the more southern coast. It is in this vicinity that any observations Avould be of tlie greatest interest as tending to (inally settle the question of how much, if any, of the peculiar indenta- tion of the coast is duo to the action of local glaciers. We should look for such indications as these. First. Kvident lines of erosion, grinding, and scratching, probably of greatest strength in a parallel direction with the general course of the iidet or sound. These might also be crossed by another series, denoting the actiim of sonu^ limited portion of the glacier, controlled by local topograjdiy, in another direction. These marks should be carefully distinguished from such as might have resulted from the act ion of bay ice in winter, carried about by the tide and wind. Such evi- dences are clearer and more satisfactory, when obtained at some distance abo\e high-water mark. Second. Deposition of material in fragments of greater or smaller size, foreign 26 202 ALASKA COAST PILOT. to tlio locality where it may be foiuul, and Ireqiiently indicating the action of ice, by the polisliiiitj or Ncnitcliiiig of one or more of the sides of any particular fraj^- nient, and especially by boulders whose rounded form is so familiar In the fiehls and stone fences of New Enf;land. Here also care should be taken not to con- founil stones rounded or smoothed by the action of water alone, with those i'ashioned in the grasp of an irresistil)le moving ice-sheet. Third. A peculiar dome-like api)earance is to bo noticed in low hills or moun- tains, over Avhich a glacier has passed, with the longer slope facing the side from M liich the ice is sui>posed to have moved. It is on the brow and sides of such hills, when tiie rock is su(li(;iently hard, that the most evident traces of polishing and Herat cliing may be hmnd. Fourth, The rocks and islets in the bays or inlets snpi)osed to have been fornu'd by glacial action would naturally be rounded or polished on their upper surfaces in a manner hardly to be mistaken for the result of sea ice moved by ^vind and tide. Finally, at or near the mouth of such openings we might reasonably expect to find water comparatively shallow, from the deposition of tine material, the result of denudation, or bars composed of the larger fragments dropped by the ice sheet, in the form of moraines, or at least in the shape of large accumulations of scattered boulders, gravel, and stones, as in the loens of the Mississippi Valley. If, on the other hand, none of these conditions prevail, and none of these proofs of glacial action be obtained, after careful search, then we may Justly reject the glacial theory, in its application to the coast of Alaska, and seek another expla- nation of the remarkable conformation of the coast line which we meet with there. It is to bo hoped that our explorers and navigators will not neglect any oi>portunity of sounding, or nudiing personal examination of the rocks, that, by their rej)orf s and the information they can so readily convey, we may more rapidly arrive id some satisfactory conclusion. AITENDIX No. 2. IVUll Tlic followiiiR list of the jjcofjiaitliical i»o.sitioi)s of plncos, imnoipnlly upon fho coast of Alaska, has Ikhmi coiiipilt'd cliicll.v from Kiissian autlioiitifs. In its ])r»'i)a- ration the intention was to introduce all «li'ttxi>it Siiiuiil, H C. iCiiHi' I'diiit, Mtxoii Siiunil, It. C Kui'tliwcHt I'uint, Laznrn Inland . ■ AI.AHKA, .lI.KXANHlill AllCIIirEI.AnO. Kntrmin' to INirtlnnil Caiml Ili'uil III' I'lirllanil Canal Villai;i* ill 'rrhi'MiiiiHity IfarlMtr... Drvil'M Dniik, K.VKrtiil Strait (;a|i(> elm™ . Kyuitiii HI rail Piiliit Niiiii'i, KyRitnl Stnilt (*n)M« KyKiliii or Mit/iMi Aiicliiirnn" In mldillo ono of llip Kyiiiinl liatlioin. . (I.AIIKME SOI'XI) AND ITS AHMS. (JanlniT Tlnrlmr Tcliilirhaiiiitf Hay Aiirli'iiHm' Taiii^aH Harbor Ka/ani Hay Niirth f'lilranro to Tam)j;a« Xarrows ('a|H> CuanialKi I'lirl Strwarl. Hontli I'oiut Kntranci' to UrtI Hay ICtiiliii ITarlior, \Vran;;olt Tulanil StikiiH' Ivivor, sonllit'aHl pniii, of ontraDCo INirt l'rot(*ctliiii, rtoiithwoHt point CHATHAM 8TI1AIT, FnF.nEIIICK SOmro, ICY BTBAIT, AM) TIIEIK AIIM8. Capo Tlcoinlon. Kim T»laH(l Ciipr Onmiancy, HaranoH' iMlanil Port Malni(>slmry, iiortli point, (Point iTarrla, Koii tHlanil) Port ('(iniluKion.mnitlioastimint HaranofT lalanil . . Point ICIlm, Kou iHlanil Point Sullivan, Kon tslaml. Point Oarilnpr, aonlh onil of Admiralty Island. . Rkalitrli I'liint, Hiuilliinst point of entrancfl to Pi'vil Strait, llarunofT Inland Point Parkor. Admiralty Island Point .Vupnsta. soiitheaat point of entrance to Icy Strait, Tchltiliaaoff Point t'onvrrdcn, northeast }Mtlnt of entranco to Ii'V Strait Point lii'troat. northwest point Barlowo Cove, Admiralty Island W 34 Point \Vhitl)y .W 35 toiut St. Mary, north point of Beruer Bay .W 4;i. 5 'Latitude from Admiralty Chart Ko. 3426. LatltndK, 37 47 4M Si !>'i in r>t ■». V .■54 l-J, :>i -M. 93.8 30.11 .'hI 43.0 im 3.-> .'m 4.-) imi (w .M 4(1 l:io M .■54 :i!i. i:il HI .'.4 4iO l:(l .''>:i.o .•H 4'J. t:i'j i»i. .'>; 43.0 i:i3 4:1. 8 5( 43.0 1:13 :i!). M 40 133 4.1.5 59 02 .% 10. .I M 17. 5 r 01 131 45 S."! 03 131 35 .V> 34 133 00 X) 'JO 1.13 43 55 3« 131 :d :,-> 3H. 3 131 45 5(i m 1X1 07 50 31.5 13J JO ' 10 V -il. .^O 1».3 13;. -M 133 33 1» 133 30 05 I3H 07 M 130 3:1 40 131 3:1.0 133 00. 134 58 134 38. 5 134 07 134 27 134 14.7 134 10.5 134 27 134 47 134 40 135 00 135 03 134 ,'i!> 135 13 135 02 Authority. Tnlted Slates Cooat Survey, rnllcil Slat4's Coast Survey. Ciiltfd Stales Coast Survey. Kniti'd Slates Coast Survey, ChroulHi'hotr. CMiruutsehoir. Vanrouver, TelienkolTs .\tla«. Vnneoiiver, Teln'okolTs .\tlaa. Vaiuonver, TehenkolTs .\tla». Chrontsrholf. Chrouliiclioir. Admiralty Chart No. 2431. Ignited Stall's Coast Hur^'ey, Chroiitschoff. Ktolin. Tebenkors Atlas. Ti'lM'nkolfs Atlas. Klolln. Ktolin. TelienkolTs Atlas. Vaneonver, Tebeiikoira .Vtlas. Vaneoiiver, Telienkoirs .Vtlas. Ailiiiiralty Chart No. 3431. Zarellio. Ailniirulty Chart Ko. 2431. Vancouver, Xvbeukotl's Atlas. Vancouver, TehenkotTs Alloa. Vancouver, Tehenkoirs Alios. Vaneonver, TebenkolTs Atlaa. Vancouver. Telienkoff s Atlas. Vancouver, Admiralty Chart No. 2431. Vancouver, Admiralty Chart No. 2431. Vancouver, TebenkolTs Atlas, Mannscript Itnsslan Map, Teben- kolTs -Vtlas. Vancouver, TebcnkofTg Atlaa. Vaneonver, Tebenkoff's Atlas. Vancouver, Tebenkoff's Atlaa. Vancouver, Tebenkoff's Atlaa. Vancouver, Tebenkoff's Atlas. Vancouver, Tebenkoff's Atlaa. ALiVSKA COAST I'lLOT. Lint of the geographical iwnitionn — Contiimo»L 203 Loi'iiUtv- Hmiill laUnd Unitctl Stali'H (!imrit Hiirvi^y AMtroiKiiiiirnl Hliiduii 4111 Saiiily Irtland, iiinuth tif rhilkiilit Uivi'r Point Macnrlni-y, KuiirlaiiotV Ulaiiil Biirut I'nint, wi'Kt aiili^ (il'iiiitraiui' to INirviumtiaya Hay. Kii|irl»iiritr Inlaixl Faint Na|N'aii, Ailniiralty iHland Cap« Fauxlin w lalot off Point Pybua, Ailuilrnlty '..•ianil. Point Windham Point Styli'Mian. nortli point of Port SiiPttinhniu. . Point Sttliwbiuy, w«»t hMc of I'ntranco to Tukcin ann Mouth of Takoii lliviT Eaut iMilut Spanliii Ilarlior, Icy Strait AnchorftK" l*"'* Kii'dcrlck, Icy Strait . Point Adoiplmn, Ii.y Strait AuchuraKK Port Althorji, Icy Strait... TACIFlr COAST— ALEXANDER ARCIIU'ELAnO. CniM' KycAiii. or Mnion Port Zardho. M^nitli cap»i I'orrcater iHland, suntli puiut. Wolf Rook (Ui]w St. lliirtoloniu Went Point, Dolores Bay, Iliicarolli Sound Caiw Addinitton, or AdaiuHon Coiountion Inlanil, wc»t point Hazy Inlanda CajH-* Dcciaion CaiH5 Oninianoy Hcd Cape Point Lander, sontk point of Port Banks, or Whale Bay Point AVoof Ilh'ria Bay Point Bingham, south isiint of Icy Strait, or CriHW Sound Latitude. M M .W II 45 17 01.5 r.7 03. 3 .'i7 10 .-.7 II 57 IS 57 31 57 .13 M II .W 37 5H 0« 5« 10 !M \H 58 l-iO 54 42. 54 4H SI 4tJ ,13 01. 55 12 55 18 55 27 .15 .15 ,15 .15 5« 02 .16 10. 5 50 20 56 .M. .17 OO. 4 57 02.8 57 02 52 57 02 52 57 02 47 57 03 23 57 17. 5 57 39. 37 45 I.iingitiide, Authority. 135 22.5 13,1 21 133 M yxt 10 134 112 IXI 2.1 l:i:i 29 |:M 42 134 .15 133 .14 i:i5 08 13.1 28 I.'I5 41 I3U 12.0 132 43. 8 132 .14. 133 2!) l.Tl 24 13:( 33 133 24 IXI 45 134 10 134 M 134 .18 134 28. 5 134 4!l 134 58 135 2!). 2 135 40.0 l.ll 17 05 135 10 53 135 17 08 135 12 .17 135 25 50 135 4.1.0 i:i<> 1.1.0 l:t6 12 i:mi 10 I 5803.5 l:t6 27 ■* Magnetic dccUuation observed August 7, 18«7 = 28<' Vanconver, TelH'iikoir's .\tlas. rniird Stales Coast Survey. Vancouver, Adiiiiraity Chart No. 2431. MjiuuMM-lpt lluH.tlan ('l)art. Vani'ouver, 'rfl»cuko(l"M .\tlfts. Vancouver, Admiralty ('hart No. 2131. Vancouver, Ailmlrally Chart No, 2131. Vancouver, TcbcnkolT's Atlas. \'ancouver, 'rebcnkolf's Atlas. Vancouver, Tehetikotr's Atlas, Vancouver. 'I'l-lM'nkotf's .Vtlas. Manuncript Cljurt, Telwukoll"* Atlas. Teiicnkoir's Atlas. Vanconver, 'rdM'nkotf's .\tlas. Vancouver, 'l'cl)enkoH"s Atlas. I'nited States Coast Survey. Meares, Zareilsi. .McarcH, Vanrouvci-, 'rehciikoira Alias. Vanc()uver. TclM-nkcdrs Atlas. La I'l'i-ituMC, 'rciienkoirs Atlas. La I'l rouse, Telienkotrs Atlas. Meares, Telienkoirs Atlas. 'J'el)eiikotrs .\llas. Bixon, Tebenknirs Atlas. Vanconver, 'I'eiienkotrs Atlas. VaiHMiuver, 'rcbi-'ukotrs Atlas. Tebei)kofl"s .Vtlas. Dixrni, Bcnzenia.i. Vasilii'tr. Vasilieffi Vasllleir. rinlted States Coaat Survey. United States (;oast Srirvey. United States Coast Survi'y. United States Coast Survey. United States Coast Survi-y. 1 tlock, 'I'ebi'nkotrs Atlas. Vnsilietr. I'ortliH'k, TebenkofTs Atlas. Illiria. Vanoinvcr, TebenkolTB Atlaa. 50". 8 east 20G ALASIC^V COAST PILOT. Lht of the geographical posiiiom — Coiitiuiietl. Li)rnHtv. 1*1)1-1 Altlini-]) anclioracc, f'roKM Soiiiiil ('iipr S|n'ii('i'r, iinrti> iiiiitit ol' ley Strait I.tiiya liny, iir Krciuli I'lirt, wmlli iiiiiiit litiiya Mciiiiit, or Mutiiit Oillou Caiic Kitirwi'atlMT Slimnt I'lihMiatlii^l-, l:t.wi4. i;i,!t4li, 1 1.VOl* IVct CaiH; riiippH, Ktinlli pniiit nl' Vakutat ur Buliriii^'H Bay Cape Timior, Kliaiitaak lalaiiil, Bcliring'H Bay... Eh'iHira Haibc:, ]l4'liriii;^'H Bay r>iiiit Latiiiii'lii', I'litraiieu to DiHenchaiitmout Bay, Ileliriii^'rt Bay Pdint Manby, wcHtcrii point of BehHug's Bay Cajio llioii. rant point of icy Bay Mount St.Klias, '4,!nO, l(i,ii;W, Vl,%:iA foot Baniplona Kot-l" Capr laktagu I.ai.ia Iti.'f Capo Hn(-klin;x, caHtcrn part Capo llaniininKl, or St. Eliiui, Boutli i>ucl Knynk Inlanil North Point, Wlnglinni iHlaml . Soa-ott*'r IiankN Nortli I'oint, Otrlick, or MiJrllcton Irfand Kiislorn niontli of Coppor or Atnu Uivcr AIa;:anlk Villa^ro, Copper Ui .or WoMti'in niontli of Copiicr Kivt r Capo Himiiiiibrook Kort ( onHlantino, rurl V.W )0« Capo Clcaro, xoiitli jioint of .Mcnitagiio Inland Jill In llarlior. Monta^ui' l.-.lali(l Norlli point of ClialniirH Harbor, Monlagno Isl'd. < 'apo Hf»nrrt'ct ion Sial lioikR, Month of Cldswrll Inlands Byo iHlandn. Hontbornluost T('linf:at('li or Chn^aih iHlainln, sontli point of Ihi' oantorn oiio Latitude. roOKH INt.ET. Capo ElUabolli Aiichorai;!' ia Port Cliatlmm Point Ilodi' Villajjo in Coal Bay, fJralmm Harlwr Coal I'oint. Tchngatcldk Bay Anchor roint Foi I SI. NIt'hnlan, Kakiiti lUvnr KaKl Fonland IViiril I'owHCHHion Ik!i'( noar TurnaLniin Ann I'oint Varon/.off, ciitraiiru to Knock (I. o. flri>) Uivcr Tnrnayain Inland, wont pitlnt ■\VrRl ]Hiint Stirliitna Uivcr N< . ill Korcland Wont 1 'oroland Nottliwont point Kalf'bin l.sland Itcdoiilit Volcano, ll.jlli icct, Isuow -covered) ... .■■irt 12. X 1-J. .I .W .14. 5 :« 4s. 5 ,58 50. a 58 57. .TO ai. .59 X\. 59 ti. 59 51 ,59 43 ,59 5.1 60 2-J. C ,59 n:.' .59 Sft .••' :^ .59 j9 ,59 49 liO 05. 5 .59 44 ,59 :io (iO r (W 41.3 m a./ 6U IG fiO 20 .59 J" ,59 ..S r>0 113 .59 51.5 ,59 34 59 20 .59 Of. 59 09 59 13.5 5!) 19.5 .59 24. ,59 37. 2 ,59 ,50. 9 m 32. 2 flO 43. 61 03. 5 60 57. 7 18 61 OfJ. fil 08.(1 61 16.5 CI 04.0 t'lO 44. Oil :t:i. 60 a?. Longitude, 136 12 13(i 34 137 16 137 11.5 137 48.0 137 27.0 139 42.0 139 35. 139 21. Authority. 139 25. 5 140 06. 141 14 140 ,54. 142 39 142 12 143 43 144 11 144 141 145 146 145 145 145 146 14li 1(8 147 147 119 149 1.50 .53 57 57 30 57 49 54 47 52 , 01 54 22 13.4 32 28 151 25 Vanrouvor, Teliriikoirs Atlas. Vancouver, Tclienkoirs Atlan. La I'eronne, Lipinnki. La I'eronne, Lipinnki. Vancimver, Lipinnki. Vanciniver, Lipinnki. Vanconver, Lipinnki. Vancouver, Lipinnki. Malespiua, Xobenkoirn Atlas. Vniicoiiver, TebcnkofTs Atlas. TebeiikolTs Atlas. Vanconver, Tebenko>*"8 Atlf.8. Vancouver, Tcbcnkoir» Atlas. I'onitiou very uncertain. Tebenkoirn .Vllan. Ti'licnkotrs Atlas. Vancouver, Tebeiikoirs Atlaa. Vancouver, TcbenkolTn Allan. Vancouver, Tebeukofl'n Atlan, Lindcnbcr^. Tretzeroir. Ti'bciikotrs Atlan. S<'rebrnnikolf. Screbranikon'. Vancouver, TcbenkotTn Atlan. ChernotT, lielcher. Vancouver, TelxMikofTs Atlas. A'anconver, Teln'nkoirn Atlas. Vani'onver, '15 lienkofl's Atlas. .Vrcbinniinlritott'. TebcnkoiV'n .Mian. TelK'nkotf'n Atlan. Vancdnver, TebenkolT'n Atlan. 151 51 Vancouver, TcbenkotTn Atlas 15142 Vancouver, Tcdicnkolf's Atlas 151 .58.6 ArcbiinandritotV. 151 49.5 ArcbiTuandritoir. 151 21!. Arcliiuuindrilotf'n MS. chart. 151 .52.8 Chernotf and others. 151 19.3 Iteldl. 151 27.3 Vamouvcr, Malakoff. l.'K) 25. 5 Vancouver, Malakoft'. 1.50 01.6 Vancouver,''t'ebenkt>n"n Atlan 150 07.5 Vancouver, Telxmkoff's M'..\it 1.50 15 Viincouver. Tebenkoir's Atlan 1.50 39 Tebenkolfn Atbia 151 07.5 Vanc(Hiver, TelH-nkoff 's A,Jlas 151 4.5.9 Tebciikcitr. 151 .57.0 Teb.TikolV. 15a 38. Tebciikoll. ' ALASICiV COAST PILOT. List of ihe geograplikal positions — Continued. 207 Locality. nininim Volcano, 12,066 feet, (»row-coverod) Iliaiiiiia Village, portiigo to lUamna Luke, ami Bristo! Itay Mount San Aiigustiu, on Blaekbrown Island Cii\w Douglas roitloek Ilniik, Pn fathoms, 120 miles north 73'' east from St. I'aul KAIIIAK AUCHU'ELAGO, AND rETIUBS OB BIIEUKOFF BTRAIT. Barren Islanilfl, east point of Amatuli Island Southwest iKviut of rgutihlu Island I'oiut Hanks, north end of Portage Island Sea-otter Island Korth jioint of Afoguak Island A fognak lloeks .South I'uiiit St. Ilennogenea Island Pillar Point CniM' IJoot, (Peuteeost) Euhel?. Village, Marni.it Hay Kortheast jioint Keto;- Island, Northern Strait .. Chiniak Point Keif we it e:.tranee Narrow Strail- Sonllieast point Spruce Ishiiut Vasilielf or W'Uiauis Bank Spnice Point United Stuti'8 Coast Survey observatory, south point Cliagavka Cove, St. I'a\il Harbor riagstatf. Si. I'aiil Village Pillar (Ui .Mount SI. I'aul, (l.Ofll feet high) Korth peak of Dovils ilountuins. 2J milet north- west of St. Paul. 2,057 fe.'l higil leo depot on AVoody In^md Stui i.Mi near north end Woody Island Cape (jrovillet Tolstoi or Broad Capcl. Low Cape Koisy Capo TJgak Islaiul. southeast p' lut Southwest cape of KiiioudaBay ('ape Barnabas llarlpor of Three Saints Misofski Cape Doulili' Headed Point, Nazlkak Island Chachkak Village East point of (ieese Islands Cape 'rlnlty, east point of Trinity Islaiuls South Cape of Trinity I.ilauds North Point of t'kauiok lu- Clilrlkolf Islands Cape Tolsl4.0 :i«.n Auth,)rilies. Teljenkotf. rstingotf. Vancouver, Tcbeukoff's Atlas. Vani'ouver, Vasilietf. United Stat«8 Coaat Survey. Bcnzenian and others. llcn/.cniun i.Md ollicrs. Ben/enian ami others. Vasilietf. Vasilietf. llen/.euiau. Viiiic luver, Ben7,eniai«. Benzeniiin. Miirashat. Arehlnuimlrltolf. Beiueinan. Archiuiandritfiff. Archiuuindrilotf, United States C, (t ise.i-ey, (ap- pr(»xiinale) United Slates Coast Survey. United Statei Coast SiirN'oy.* United Stalls Coast Survey. United Slates Coast Sur'ey. United Slates Coast Sur.' y. United Slates (loast Survey. United Slates Coast Survey. United Slates Coast Si;-vey, (ap- proxinuite.) United Stales Coast Suriey, (ap- proxilnat.'.) ,\rchiniiindritoif. ArcbiniaurlritotV. Archiuiauiliiliiir. .Vrchinuindritotf. A'ancouver. Arcbiinandritoiy. I.isianskI, Arcliiiiiandrilort'. Atcltiuiandrilolf. Vari(!ouver, .\rchlmandritoll'. Arci'iuiauilrilotV. Arcbiinanitritotr VaiKiouvcr, .\rehinuindiilip(f. Ari'lihnandrilofl'. Kashevariiir anil I.iudeulierg. Kaslievaroir and l.iudeulii rg. ICaslievarotr and Liiideiibevg Kuklicvaroir and Liudeiiherg. August 98, 1867. of Arrhlmandiiliilf 208 ALASKA COAST PILOT. List of the geographical positions— Continneii, Luculity. Sontli iBlnmliif Uiiiiilrn Rmup , Atl'iyiik Inliiiiil, mirtliii'ii of Liuiidun group South jiiiliil Kiiiliak IhIiiiiiI Ctiiio ^Mituk, west point of Alitak iJ«y Low Cupi.', Alitak Bay Cajn* Icolik Karlook Village, inoiitli of Karlook Kiver C'upi' I'yak, uoutbwvat iMjiut of Uyak Bay Cniif Tlxat Capt' U;:a'.iik, Koilln»ru Strait Itanplii'ii'y l.'api", Noiilifiii Strait Sti'(^|> < 'ujir, Afo.^iiak Ixlaml Capi' ruraiuaiiof, Afogimk Ihlauil Black Cape, Afoguak lulauil boutiikast suoueh ok ai-ahka i'ex1n;(ula, and mlvnuh off it. SoiitboaHt point Aau):lij)aiilik Island Villaui' north HiiU- Kukak Bay CaiM' Atiit('ha;;l)ik Kutniiiy V'illagi', on Katniay Itivor and Bay CajH- KulMi;;akrtiU Mount liolHcharolf Oiay I'lak Txhuiih iunayak IVak A U(f Milk Ilock Ciipr Iviiuiliut Sutkhuiu VilhiKo, KidiuHk iiay EiiM point Aiuknlik iHland Tulion'oiiint I'oint Itklil i-'i\ir, iNiBt Hidoof Kuioukta Bay Aiu-liorauo Kuprianoil' (-'alio Ivauotf AVi'Bt point of Korovimakl lalaud TTn^a, Xart ti Harbor, hoiiao ou weat aboru of bay, I'nj;a Inland ViUaKo in Di'larotf Bay, HoiithcaHt iHilnt of TTuga Inlund Js'urth point Tia^khinak Inland Kouth itoint of Nuniiik iNlaiid Khiunaciu Dank, 40 fathoum, rural and aand, 35 niib'H rant of xouth point of Xuuiak Inland Soutli |ioint of llird Inland Mountain Capo, nontb ond of Najiay Inland Si'ai I'oint Village Tavloir, hi PavlofT Bay Villi ano TavhitV, wont niilo of I'aohifl' Bay ■> illimc lUlkollnki, (Siiuirrcl,) wiutli of Jloiiridui- kotr Hay Annif^itt Inland (.'a\M> I'l-tor, wont onil Ijaninikh Inland and Harbor Catio I'ankotf, nonlli point of rkalok Inhiinl Capi' Khal)utt-h, rant )Hiint of nonttt ontranre to IiHiuot:ikl Strait or False Pa»B Latitude. 55 21 53 10. 8 54 55. 54 au.o 54 38 .M 40, 5 r.4 51. 53 ao.o 53 SO. 1 55a«.0 .53 0.5. .54 5'J.4 54 IW ,54 38.5 Longitude, 56 U4.3 LW 31, 5 SO 15.0 150 20.0 50 45. 154 09. 50 52. a 1.54 17.6 rm 5!i.o 1.54 28.0 r,i 17.0 154 42. 3 57 34. 154 24. 5 57 .50. 153 51. 1 57 53.8 153 38. 7 57 .58. 153 12.0 58 oa.3 IM 20. .58 lilO 15:104.0 58 17.0 1.52 .57. 3 58 85. 152 4.5. 58 30 13,1 3.3 58 21 134 05 58 04. 7 154 19.7 58 02. 154 52. 8 57 .52.0 153 00.0 57 30. 135 55,0 57 20. 150 10.0 ,57 05. 156 35. 50 ,54 1.56 21 50 33.2 157 26, 50 31. 9 1.57 28, 50 18.0 157 24 r>0 1,5.0 157 40.0 55 58.0 158 27.0 55 4.5. 8 1.59 15 .55 3:1, 159 ;)0 53 2,5.2 100 23,3 lliO 49 100 27 1,59 13 159 :!l *158 30 159 40 100 00 101 09 161 31.3 161 49,0 161 .54.0 162 .V). 162 .52 102 ,58. 54 48.5 163 12.0 - Approxloate. Authorities. Tobeiikoff '8 Atlas. Kashi'voroll' and LiudoubrrK. Arebiinand;'itott'. Anhiuiandritoff. Ari'himandritotr. Archinnindritotr. Archiinaudritotr. Arcldinandritotf. Anbii.iandritiitr. Arcbiniaudritotl'. Bcnzonniu. Vaailietr. Vasilieff. Vasilliff, Tebcnkotfs Atlaa. Tob<'nkotl''n Atlas. Vaniliflf and otluTS. Vanilictf and others. Vaniliflf and otIuTa Vanilit'if and others. Vasilii'lf and otlo'rs. Vaniliotf and others. Tebenkuirn .Vtlas. Vanilielf and othurs. Voronkotfnki Tel(enkoll"n Atlas. Kurit7.in and otlo'rs. Kiirit/in and others. Voronkiill'ski. Viinilietf and otbi>rH. Kushevorolfnki ami oth*4'H. Teboukoirn Atlas. Kanbevorolt'nki and others. Kanhevorotlnki and others. Kashevuroll'ski and others. fnitf ' States Coast .Survey Kanlievorollnki and others. Kashevorotlnki and 'ithers. Kwit/.iii and liardner. Kwit/,in and (titrdner. Kwitziu and (iiirduur. Kwitcin and Ganlner. KashevoruStiki :ind ol'.iei'O. Vaololi. Tebenkotra A las. Voronkoflski. .^hical positiotw — Coutiimed. 209 Locality. ALELTIAN I9LAMIS. TTniiiiak I«lriiiil, (Japn laaiiotxki, 8onlliwi'»t point of oiitriiiit'n to Isauotuki Strait or Falsi' I'aits ■ . . Chim^ Lazari'l', Hoiitlieatit iMiiiit of islaiul Capo Kiti'himk, oouth point KliitkhukCai ■. Uiiimak Strait ■\Vr8torn Head, ,,niniak Strait Capo Mordvinotr Ki'd t'ri'fk Point, nortliwpst point of outrancn to Iminotski .Strait or V'nUf I'aHS Clmnofl' Strait, l«nnot»ki SI rait Volcano SlwHlialdin, s,'."'! ft . (, (snow-covcrcd) I»nuot«ki or Volcano Devastation, 3,533 feet, (snow-covered) Cod Hank olf Krinitiiin iHlandn, south '.\j° east from I'l'ak of Ukauiok Islands, .W fathoms ^avel and sand t Kemarkahle jieak near northeast point of Uka- mok Islaml, Strait of Unimak tKast point of TJkamok, soutli side Strait of tTnimak North Cape of Akau Island, southwest point of TTnlnnik Slr.iit SimtheasI Cape of TiRalila Island Sijiauh (jajie, north end of Akutun Island M)iitii Cape Akutnn Inland, north side Akntai. «!!«!< Hia'V Cape Unalga Islai d, south s'''.e ^'-uiun ?, ;n;t Latitude. 5^1 47. 4 54 a.'). 5 54 20 .54 SI. ! 54 :io. M 47. .M 115. 9 !i3 oa. 54 48. 54 3P.0 53 38 54 10. 9 54 12.0 54 in. 5 54 03. 5 54 12.2 .54 01.5 .53 !>8. 8 UXALASKA miOlf. ■' :\\;:an Island, south' ni-i point 'leaver Bay \': n 1 of Cdan !kli SI ail, to Beavei Hay ... - tl.ern extremity of icef olf Cape Kiiugitnk.. . 1 itranee to lliluluk Bay Southwest point of I'nala.ska Korlh Cape Chi'rnoll«k i Bay Crown Cr* I'Tth point of Crown Bay I^wf Ca. Cascade on do Cape Cheerl'ul IJ(.'hthonse aw. on ncnth head of -Vmaknak Island United Stilt (,'oaat Survi >• astronomical station, ITlachta 'larhor, I'nalaska Bay Oreek Church, lUoolwik villau'c, Fimlask!" Bay. . "ap" K.dekhta, ^.lOO feet hinh, east point of Cna- lasV.' Bay Volcano Makiishin, 5.691 foot • Volcano Islam' itogosloff or Providence, about 1 ,OUU feet high L'MNAK ISI.AXII. .53 .52. 3 K\ 42. 5 .53 10 53 93.5 .53 18.7 .Vl 2(i. 5;l 4.5 53 ,50. ,5:1 58 58 .■n 55 38 >1 53 58 .53 52 39 .54 00. a ,V! 52. 5 53 52.0 LonRitude. Authorities. 1«3 M.O VoronkotVski. ...., .JO J VoronkotVski. 164 33 Voronkoll'ski, Tehenkotra Atlas 11)4 47.0 Voronkollski. 111.-. 01. 5 VoronkotVski. • IIM 3f. 7 ICuritzin. 16.1 :«. Kiiritzin. 16:1 24. 5 VoninkolVski. IIRI .59. 5 Kiiritzln. 164 32.0 Kurit7,in. 104 12 * Fnited States Coast Survey. 104 47. ! Becchey. 164 4,5.0 Kuritzin. 165 34.0 Kuritzin. 164 57 TelMukotra Atlas. 165 54.0 Knrit/.in. 165 59.2 Kurilzin, TehenkofT:; Atlas. 166 03.0 Kurilzin. 166 00. U Knril/.in. 100 07.5 Til)enkotl-s Atlas. 166 42 Kuril/in. 166 49 Sarllchcir. IG7 3.1.0 Kurilzin. 167 17.5 Sarililutr. 166 49. 5 'rclienkotra .\tlas. ion '-..I Kurilzin. lliO 32 47 ' Ciiiled Slates Coast Survey. 160 27 44 rnitcii States Coast Survey. 16(1 27 .52 nulled Slates Const Sllivey. 1C6 29 06 Cniled Stales Coast Survey. 154 18.7 rniled Slates Coast Survey. ICK 43 Tclienkotrs .Mlas. 161 39.0 Ivuritzin. 167 .^5. 107 46. Kurilzin. Kuritzin. Capo 'I'anuakli. norlii point of tlie island .53 31.0 Tulikskaya Peak, near I lie nortli end of Island.. ,53 2;i.O * .\piiroxiinate. t 'I'lic'^i' posit ouB cannot he reconciled ; the peak ..nould be ahout a . 'lie south of the cape. ; .loiiiina Bonoslovu (SI. .lohu, the tlieohmian.' iil 210 ALASKA COAST I'lLOT. Lint of the geographical positions — CoiitimuHl. I,OCnlltj-. VmTiildfr Ti'iik Vmiiiliitl' Isliinil. I'aNtiTii pfilnt Ciipi' SafTJikli, MdUthwt'Mt point of II. Siiuth |M)iiit nf Saiiial^ii iHlaiid Latitnde. ISLANDS OP TIIK HOIIl V01.CAN0KS Pi'nk on Kairatnii iHlainl I*cuk on Clni^iiiatlak iMlanil Hoiith point (.'Imi^inadak iNlaiu) NoiilicaMt peak Vunaska Inlanil RontliwcMt poak, Volcano, VtinaHka Inland . ('lia^ncl I.slanil, iniitiUc of pt-ak SIlilinl of Atklia Inland, A India Strait AnrhoraKO in Xa/.arn Bay, naHt fiidn of Atklia Inhunl Cajir 'I'adlnkh, notitli Hide of inland f'apt' Ki;^nn, wont point of inland Uroiid ('apt', north niilf of inlantl . Sail Inland Kiiii Toint, noutli point of Koroveimki Bay l*i-irHt'n lionnc, Ni(Milnki viUajfc, KornvcnHki Ba.v. Capo Koiovonnki Koroveimki IVak,extinet voliiano 4,853 foot high. Kortli ('apt.' Kant Capo Kunionjfi Inlatnl, middle Swallow Inland, niidille ()}^inodakli Inland. Atkha .it rait Sitkliin Peak, Sitkliin Inland, rxtinet volrano .^(lUI feet iMcIl AllAKIl ISLAMI. Capo Ada^dakli, north point of inland Ca)H> KatzlKlkhakh. nonlh point of inlanil . Capu Vakhakh, nonthwent point of inland. KAX.VdA IHI.AN'll. Northwest CaiM', Kanaini Inlanil Kanaifa Peak, near ?sorthwent Cape Cape Clinn, nontli |>oint of Kanaka Inland Peak of .S*'a.otter Inland, extinrt r2 06. 5 ,52 08. 7 .53 10. .5 51 .58.0 .■>2 00. .52 Ofl. 5 .52 10.0 .52 11.0 .52 17.3 .52 IH. ,5 .52 23. S .52 2,5. 3 52 le. .52 13. n ,52 12.0 51 58.0 .5-J 03. 5 .'.2 01.0 51 31. 5 51 32.3 51 .57.0 .51 54.5 51 38.0 51 5.5.3 Longitude. AnthoritieH. ' " 1(18 0!t. K iritzin. 168 00 Knritzin. 168 40. Kiiritzin. 168 57. Knritzin. IGO i!5. Knritzin. 169 21.0 Knritzin. 1G» 44. Knritzin. no 12.0 Gnvrilotr. 170 21.5 On\Tilotr. 170 47.0 (Javriloir. 170 .52. fiaviiloff. 179 09. Incentrem and otliei-n. 172 2.5.0 Iii^entrein and othern. 172 40.7 Salamatotf and uthern. 173 10.5 173 51.3 Salamatolf and nthern. 173 19. 173 54. 7 SaUmatoff and nthern. 174 00. 5 Salamatotf and others. IV4 42.0 In^entrein and othern. 173 40. Inp'ntrein and nthern. 174 4.5. 1 IiiKintreni and othern. 174 31.5 Inf£eHtrem and others. 174 22. 5 Vasilietr. 174 17 Ktolin. (Jilison. 174 21.7 favloir. 174 112.0 I'avlotr. 173 .58. 7 I'avlolV. 173 48.5 I'avloir. 175 00. 8 Injientreni n!id others. 175 a«. 5 In^entreni and othern. 175 21. S Tebenkoli's Allan. 176 06. 4 IncoBtrem and others. 176 36.3 SalamntofT and tithera. 176 46. 7 Salamatotf and others. 177 Ofl.0 Salamatulf and othi'i's. 177 19 Salamatotf and others. 177 16 Sahimatoll' and others. 177 36. 5 Salamatotf and others. 177 30.5 Salaniatoff and othera. ' ALASKA COAST PILOT. Lint of the (fcographical pmUiom — Continui'd. 211 Localily. Latitude. TANAfi.V ISl.AXr). Ciipn Surtakli, iiiHtlic list iioiiit of idlatid Pniiit Saxlikh, sniitli iidiiit of isluiiil jVii<-liiirn«e in Prido of KuHHia Bay, west giilo of iHlaiid Noitli ("np<) of Gorolol (Burnt) Mond, volcano, very hijih S...itli CiiiH! of Gorolol (Burnt) Island, volcano, very liiKli Illakli Inland, Tauaga Strait Amatignakli laland, higlicst part North point of Remisopokli, or tlie Seven Peaked Mountain. Active volcano on tliia Inland ■West Cape of SemUopokli Islaud, 1,411 feet liigli. Sugarloaf Peak, soutb point of r(,..i-' • 700 feet liigh .■ii sao ,11 34.0 51 17.0 51 M.O 51 4^.5 51 2B. « 5 51 19.0 > 51 la. 53 03.0 ( 51 57. 5 last Cape of Amitkliltka Island. Capo Ptikhi, west point of Aniitkliitka Island, 1,008 feet high Anchorage in Kiriloff Boy, north side of Amit- khitka Island South Point, Constantine Bay, northeast part of Aniitkliitka Sonth Point, Little SitkUin Island. . Peak on Little Sitkhin Island 51 54. East point of Rn' and others. 8»l;iniul(iir anil ollieis. Salamatoli and others. Salainatofl' and ol tiers. Halaniatnir and others. Salainatoff, Gibson. (t:'„o,ii. Saluinatotr. Zari'nibo, Gibson. Gibson. Klinkofstroni. Gibson. Klinkofstroni. Gibson. Klinkorstrom. Gibson. Klinkol'strom. Gibson. iTitstroiiium. Gitison. Kliiikol'slrom. Gilmoii. Tebeiikotrs Atlas. Giiisoii. Gibson. TebunkolTs Atlas. Gibs WKHl HIIOIIKH OF AMBKICA TO TlIK AIICITC OCEAN. Point Kmittzin, iiortlicaMt jtoint of tlio ontraiu'c to iHanotHki Strait, or I'alHo I'usH Hontli point of .Viiiult. iHiand ('aju' (ilaKt'Ootr KaHt I'oiiit of Wolf Inland, Miillvr Bay C'a|M' S4>niavin Ulaik IVak CiiiM* .Strogoinifl' IIRIKTOI. HAY. Vn}w MtMisoliikofl* ilout li of Sulinia Ui viT Mouth of r^atdiak Villa);(> Pon^oik, numtliof Xakurk River llonlli of Ivvitobak Kiver t'aiM' ICtidiii Kort Ali'xandi'r, on Xutcliagak River t'.iiM) Consttintine Kayatcliok Inland, niiddlo C'aint Capo, sontlioaHt point llagcnmoister iHl'd. Caiw Newculiuiu , Kortliwest point of Ooo • .12 ."iC. i .VJ .17. c .ia 40. ( ( .ia 4f. t .M 04. i fi5 1J,1. ,1.1 14. H .w m>. 7 .Ki ai. 7 M ;i.i. a .10 48 .17 30. 4 .17 M .in PA 7 .1H 4'i 8 oil DO. ,1t< >. :>x .17. 1 5S -U. 8 58 3ro .18 ;i.v 5« 4'AO .10 03. a ^ .10 54 I 60 OH (ii sao SI ,^1. 5 c:( :i(). ttl xi. J KI vc. ((KI 38 ; (13 53. 6 i 63 5:1 33 Longitude. 180 31 18ti 54 ISfl 3(1.7 IWi 1.1.0 188 47. 3 I8(i 311. 5 187 94. 18li 53. 187 .34. 187 08.0 18f. .1.1. 180 35.0 1.17 .18. 5 1.17 48 1.17 30.0 1.17 01.4 l.Vi .18. 158 Oti, 1.V 18.4 158 44. 150 44. :.iO 48.0 103 0.1. Uil 47.0 161 43 I«( 17 AuthnritioH. llkl 1.1.0 Stnninkoviti'Ii. 163 01.5 Slaniiikovili'h. 163 .'lO. 7 Staniiikovittii. 16U 41.0 Stanlnkovilih. 1(K) 113. 7 Staniukovit'h, Botscharoff. 1.18 16. 6 IliitM'harotr. 1.18 46 Khoiuh>hiuo. Bi>n?.c>nian and others. B<-nzen)au aiul others. Gibson. Ktoliu. Gibson. Etolin. Giiison. Bouieinan and others. Gibson. Ikuizeuian. (til»son. ik'uzenuin aniliiii) of WaloH, wc«tprii piilnt of tlm maiiilaiicl of llie rnitcil States anil of Noitli AiiK'iioa AltCTlC OCEAN, KOTZEIUE S01'X1>. Cape SpanberR Pi'ak of Cliainlsso Islnnil, 231 fpi't Cape llIoMHom Cape Knizcustoni Point llopo Capi' Mslinrno, h I!) feot Capi' llcimfort, (vein of loal) Icy C'api' Point Itelihcr Point Harrow, highi'stlntitmloofthcrnitid States Tangi'nt Point, last capo of Di'aflu Inlet Capo llalki't Mannini! Point Demarcation Point, eastern point of the United St«tC8 on the Arctic Oeean Ittandt qf the Behring Sea. ST. OEOllfJE ISLANTJ. ■Waterfall Cape, or southeast point of the island . East CajK" ■West Capo Latitude. : 04 89. 64 ;«) Ci 1«.7 ST. I'Afl. AXD ADJACENT I8I.E8. Beaver Isle WalniB Isle Anchor Cape, south point of St. Paul Island . til) 43 GO a.-i m 49 (17 (W m til. 5 m m m i:i 70 20 70 43 71 27 71 10 70 49 70 07. 5 09 40 34.3 37 1 3S.3 • 57 03. North cape of St. Paul. West cape of St. Paul Ilitlhest point of St. Paul . |rr.7 I I ,'i7 ,57 I \ 57 ll.S 09.9 OH. (Hi. 2 10.4 11.2 10.2 11.4 09 n Longitude. I'i4 Oli. fl nil 07.0 04 22. Kit 24.0 04 17.6 1112 .KG «4 21. lli2 .Vi. G4 23.0 1G5 J. IWi or. 5 KM! m Ifili 18 lUO 47. 8 1(17 •li). 2 lfi3 34 IGl :o.o 1112 24 1U4 37 IGG 40 ion 08 iu:i 34 lUl 40 150 3« 150 15 154 50 1.52 IG 143 42 141 07. 5 109 31. 5 1(19 27 1(19 44 170 19 170 00 169 49. 5 169 34. 170 12 101) 54. 6 170 00. 3 i;u 19.3 170 01. I 170 00. 4 109 49 n Autlioiities. Khramtchenko, Kliranitchenko. Kliriiiiitcheiiko. 'I'llielikotV iliiil others. Xi iKukotr unci others. Peecltey's Chart. Ik'eeliey's t'lutrt. IJeeeliey's Cliart. ISeediey's Chart. Ileecbi y's Chart. Ilccdiey and others. Hi liey. IJei'chey and otliers. Ileechey antl otliers. Ueecliey and others. Ueediey lUld otliers. BiM'cliey and otliers. Beechey and others. Beechcy and others. Beediey and others. Beediey and others. Adniifalty Chart No. Admiralty Cliart No. 2435. 2435. Admiralty Chart No. 2435. ArdilniiindrltofT's MS. Chart. ArchiiiiaiMlritiill'M .MS. Ciuirl. Aicliiniiindiiloir's .M.S. Cliart. I Ardiinmndiiloffs MS. Chart. Ti'lH'iikolT. Archimandritofl's MS. Chart. Teiniikotr. Archimaiidriloir s MS. Cliuit. Teheiikotr. Ardiiiiiiiiiiliitiiirs IIS. Cliiiit. Ardiiinaiidiiloll'x MS. cliiul. Tdiiiikiill. ArdMiiiandiiloir'H MS, Chart. Tduiikntr. 214 ALASKA COAST PILOT. Lint of the geographical po8 a iom — Continued. Loonlily. Lnlltudc. Longitnile. Authoritir-n, BT. MATHKW AND AlUACKST \ii\.VJi. Piimiiflo iHli* 'XV) feet ' /' 60 13.0 60 18.0 60 19.3 00 .38.0 60 44.0 .TO 48. 50 57.7 60 11.5 60 31 64 58.5 82 57.0 63 17.0 6:1 51.3 63 20. 4 63 00. 4 63 05. 65 38. 7 65 40. 3 J 65 .,8. 6 I 65 47. 8 6.5 51.2 64 33 64 23 30 64 26 09 66 03. 1 / // 172 .34.5 172 04. 172 29.0 172 40. 172 52. 106 13.0 103 24 167 07. 6 105 30 167 58. 109 24. 5 168 35. 171 iit. 171 33.0 169 19.5 l(i8 43. 8 168 43. 7 168 35. 2 168 56.5 168 58.0 109 03. 7 173 18 30 173 96 173 90 169 43. 8 Lutkc 1 ' CaiH I'piiuht, MnntlifftHt iH»iiit of St. Muthew.... Biiunrlnat' Trak, I :j,">() ft'vt I.utko. Liitko Capo (ilury ui KnHHiii, north point of St. Matbcw. Liitkc. I'livllltf NUNIOOK ISLAM). Capo iKiifttif'fl', flouth point of iHland TaHilirfl; Ti'bi>iikott 'ti Atliu CajM' llo.vlr, wctit point of Nuni)M>k iHlaml Capo Ktolin, north point of Nnniook iHland Peak of Ukivok (or King) Island, 586, 750, foet. . . 8T. IJlWllENCB ISLAND. ViiMilicff. Ti>beuki>fl"8 Atlag. Khranitcbunko luid oihera. Pavloff. Plivldff. Tt'lK*nk«ff. Anchorago off Kiallagak village, near Southoast Plivldff. Pavloff. II]O.MEI>K IML.\M).S, nKlIUlNG BTIIAIT. ilopchpy. Bccchcy. Ailmiralty Chart No. 9435. MiiliUo of channel bctwocn thr Woini'tU' Islamls, bring tho hnnudary li"o between KnHHia and nueeiA, diomeue islands. Tebcnkoff'B Atlaa. Bpecilioy. Mount Kinnicott. 2,:WJ feet. IMover liay, East rovcuufi fton'ico, AuguHt, 1863, AVvhtirin Unlou TflfgraiiUiu Kx- peditfon. Lower anchorairo of same icviTiiic Horviic, AiigtiHt, 1805, AVcHti'iii Union Tclt'grapliic Ex- pedition. Lionti'nant llaviH, on United Statca rcvcnnp mTvirr, Angimt, 1865, AVi'Hteru Union T«Iegi-uphic Ex- pedition. Beechi'y. APPENDIX NO. 3. [From LisiaiiBky'B Voyngo Roniul the World in 1803, 1H04, 1S05, niul 1800.] Vocabulary of the lunguagcH of the naticcH of Kadial; Unalanla, Kenai, and Sltla. NoTK. — III the vocabulary of I'lialaHka tlio IrtttTH nh, jtriiitftl in itali<-H, aint k anil n, wlii'ii dual It-ltiTH. NliiaiM 1h) half mmnil only. Tin* inhabitnntHof tliiH fount ry have thiH Hhi^titurity that llicy pronoiini-c tin' tli with tin- Hain<> f'arllity ami pri'ciM'ly likn thn EukHhIi. Tbu Sitkaiis ulmpr^'c three toncn iu every wonl nf letiKth, of wliieli the inid(ll)> one ia the lowent. The lanKuaK*' "' I^enal Ih very ilifUciilt to ho ex|ireiiHeil ; 1, with an aHterUk |>reeeiliii); it, Ima u Holt of thinhli' nniiiul, not unlike the ehickiuK of a hen. £ii|;lliih. ITiialaaka. Kailiak. Kenal. .Sitka. A. Knntat. Aliatlmk llok SakoiKUi: kiii/mm Machliirdnlckan Kukl6 liail A Hi^oliink THooheeltB SliakoimhkA. llakki jtaHiii Kulukak Aliulak Taeek. Jlalli Nallee. Ki'ochofhpt'da Odilok Hoh6 IJiiv tho Kanliiak Key. Ik'iir llank'tii Hta, Neelehali Chok. llrUrvp Kleliakek avnheeti. ItcHv Akt-<-hka SehhcKit Kayu. Kiialagcit. Altacne. Jlfiry Kakkil Ufrch tri'i' THli(Mi*kia IHiuk Kali('h**lizffk TonnluHilialt'o TallaKht Kalli'tlil. lilnihliT Kt'(')iuak •Kl.lH KryheytKitkh KiHitaalthiu. Opit^aaie Sintlia AthiHiktee. llltH'k (if w\ AiU'ktok Tanoliak TH'kanikna Hattnkoo. Tanii'ck Talik valibat Chientooh. SnIikvat)M)leo Chak Huk HtahontctnaHh HatektH.'uUeo. Eliatoolcckan llikaaktL Itnithor Kallii Ahhoiiuh. llrotlior, I'ltlpHt Liitlian AiifzaltA. OniH^a. Teenhkliit* llrothcr, youngoBt KepnAcen Iliahcimt Kaiikya. Uuy Uauaaliahoon. C. Ek-yak Vakoo. ClialuMMlak Shaliohnok SteheekeetaA Iiilhkit Siuihvu. (!iUch SiKMla Alnhit. Choal KiHilttHH'hihcnciika. Chi'ck OoUoohak Tftholdkok Shiukoosha Kavronh. *x '■nl 216 Kn^liHli. ClilM Chill Coini' luTf <:"IM"'' ('(tiifih (.'(iwiiril Cry Cmii Cut, II Cut tldwji D. ])nnrn Dlll'klK'HH IJiiy Diiy, to Devil Din I>iK 1)i(.tiai«U T(M'ii(HiiihaH('et«'6.. Tuohmta Aiiilmliailn KaliiliakaiuU'i'k. Aniictiak VaiuuM'ni'Iiiik ... Ahlikuy AN/iociheda Aykok AhiM-ln'k I;i/iaiHMm aliiula.. IiUioutHiil Kcoi'lihecdft. Saktutdak . . . Tolilok TontooMJlk Ncrtokilk TlHlt«'ll Chtkcko Kada AyiMtk Sainlitkainimhcdik . AunoUak KinAan Thak KamtrrnchiiAiit Thankah-ftcnce. n , It-hefda . An«.aii .. Athak ... LatIiik Tykt'4'na iniMMit . KaiKKiya KtMM'k MaiiiiKi kcf'liiok. Kiya Kilt-btok... Chii^^idzii . SnHjja TaiiiU'^k — Ahanok At;niiu1ivilk . Ya4k llahoo Piulita OiiiiiH't'k L*\v hiio Tanhii KiM»tcn K<'on)it8ialifl . SalioUieot Kooniahpak (.'hiimo Akhlectot Chiiidok NmmA Pt'odidio Ki't'iidok Manneot AiiMM'taduuk Akfitak Inhalak Kabluto Knioo^af>nga . . . Inhaliok Ihtfthu Hvy-ey Adoga Almpa ('hapKi«ft Clmoliikt' Oknrhvalitok . IpHdim) SvaAn;;n TcekhA A};uolpaga — Ahanov^aha . . Kt'imi. SliiirfM'likaliait ShIotiiiL'i* OontHa (MitKurhiHina KliaH ChaitHk Nrhah SlitatiKHdiuli .. IIiMitiiaanU .o. KitHalK H<'rlliakl6 . . Cliaan. riiaaii THkaiiuaHh. (.'i:t>i-iiiiah . . Koukfclia. . TiM»ka*k.... NiU'neeHnlU. *K*'('t-lHK> ... TKataa'iiHii . NlMdt'tHM)ll.. Tiiiaiiltga... Tonkh StHt*('l-m) StrtakiM'la XtH)lt*H'liaHtm't'l-<>o. AlHlumn *KtreoolU Kahul^cna . IlaaltH 8hnaHh-a. ShtMnt(K)k .. Snoutootna.. iShnaHltaika . Jfootthilnceh.. Xo. Kahtmk. Kauoliuu, Cliynk. KakiKik, AbkuoktMitlcc. Slcciikt'otaant'o. Hlia. lliiuialdi-no. Kvut4». Taa. Ilaiina. KaatftA. Kaokabeklion. Kavviik. Nnkpok. T('k(H)Mhkeo. Kycsli. Ahlcolhkoo. Ahgtw. Taoo. K(HitHiti-iet. Aknkooshee. Katlfk. Katli'honpo. Katlt'litloii. Katlaekakoo. MMMMMiili^B I ALASKA COAST IMLOT. Vocubulaijf of hnujiuujea, ttc. — CoiitiiiiiL'd. 217 Kitglirth. FtiiiriT, littlA. Fire FIihmI FlnWlT FiHiI, U FtMlt FlMltHtCp Fnrrlicutt Fox Front G. CiatlHT (tet up (lirl, It yoiiii}; r.ivo Give nil' to(\i-uik . Civi! mo to eat (;» G» uway 0«, k't Gm! Goml Gown or Parkn Gown moilu of iiit«s- tilU'H. GfttHH Om-n Gull, a sea GutH II. Uail Hair liaml Hi-a.l Ili-altliy Urari lie Of she Ili«li }Iill, a Hinull IIuM your tongno. Jlook, II lUh IlnUHc, a How much I. Iron Just K. Kiit'o Knnt (tf a trfe Know, till yuu not, me . UnalaMka. Tcl)i*r1okai-I)ci-drtn Kryliiiak CllllllluotlMlI.ek... ('lii')io^niar Dalikalii-hiiliikH . . Kti'tok (.'Ilfrmrk Taiinyak Oikt-lifi'n Koycliok TaliHt'ila . Ankiitla . . A«liaank. TitMi tjutuak 4-lihtila. Tcf'ii achlKHiila Iclia Inahaui'litHHla Ilint'cda Ahi.b Murlilii'crtclcck SakiM'ii Chcehduu Kc.yhiik .. C'tiidliuiolr. Sloiika .. . Anlu-k ... Talicncm daliski'ettHi Imlr.i. Chla/j/i Kauilit-k AnhaliamtolH'luk Kaiinuheen IkoDU Kaclik Tk TiMincclitok . ratt'ilinrt. Oimvilnok. . . lo-o^a Tn Cliyavik . Kkliuiolniik . (.'liiskiK>hka Avyak Nitltivalipooii liaka . Ki*nai. Tau/,-1'0 . Slii'iiit )io . ^Kaiiotdslia Iiilititl lltani'tlrlict't 'KciHth konyil , Slda'kaiilim.t )laHhiitMmlu-ct-yn .. . JfaHhotdhinda . lItNaiin]t4H>h . THauL'fUoimU.. Na*kt Sla-niina SlianKK-o PolialUn Sit-klfo Hhonu Tri-fUino/, KiiniialthiHlii *Ktout<'rIrlio('t. Kknliak Yniiiali T. Kakah. NakatfM''. KmwHiiat. Kontipt. KiM-taii. Sliaurt. AlHlii'i'tr. Alvvallatn. A!uli;)tnrt6. KnoHliti-. AhkiiidHtMdiiHK rhiM'umih. Klrt. Tooaki''. KlHltotHt. Atlmiditt'c. riKMikviin. Ni-f)itTiitiM-alit'ntA KckliatfC. KaiiaHrti. KatctHl. KoHlial'.it'O. Kai'.'. AkIu.^ ; -'. Kli'kalilmicokoo. Katidi. Voiifa. K)>alii<- kiMilicki'i. Komlia. ShalhiHitoL Hrat. KlKMIHfl. Kaycz. Klrkniiyitack. Kak.ch. IIaI<.'im'ko4»({g6. m 218 11^ EukHhIi. I.nkii Liiif I.il', to Mlil.t I.liin, II Ht'u L\\m Llv.T J^lvo, whiTu «lt) you . . liiHtmi LoUHU Low I.lltl^IH M. Man Mat M MiiHH Mothir McilliiM-, xruiiil . MntlltT-ili-law.. ^Inuiitaiit Mouth Murtinvr ...... MuHck'H N. Nail« Nili<-k Tayaho Sootok Toolii'i-dak. Kfi-lyam ... Ki'lliolifU . . Annak KookiwiA Sati-iuli(*(>n ... KlHltlllHik Alirrl'ok Alri't-liooKok. Vylmk KaHhihi'U Oimk Iniikak Oniniu Koo/inabt-k Aiaak Anhoziu SukliHik Anlioziu llookik. Alikadvmizi'i'k . Ollik AakiKiya Chceuatok Chaiikala . Tayalioaimmholcph . KaiiAi-etak It.heoila ... MiH'likada . Itouaaak . ■ . Kailink. XiiiiiHiak I'llu i;klu Auci.'k Ailahluk niulikil .\«'t-M^a Niiuoc-chect ... TlllMllllO \aaetu Arhallkrcliiok . Kauiaptnok — Shook.... I'l'hat . . . Yaal(K;k . Oonoak .. Oonoa^o . ().Ut'l.... J.HiHdahkof Vooauico Nakhee nah'Iee. Khauoi>t.st6 . Keyrheo — Tact-liim ... To*k.i'8 Slya'ka KiuHhilhiiah . Koht-aua Tst't-aazilt'eu. TapaaUa Cheenleool . Pa'khool... Sitka. Anki). Kiihauoo, Tlataakci-hoon. OotiM'kaan. Taau. Kaliakii. Kakrykoo. KiMikHC'lihrtA. Kotmivci'b. Ik^tnt. Kakaliak(H), CliakU'yh. TootH. TCCHH. KcKkhO. Sokauution. Txikahii. Aklco. AhlilhkiM). Ahrhaan. Shahata. Kak.i>. C'liakooto. Uaak. Kahakoo. Kasiitii. Taakatol.; Ahkeulk. Taat. Kadu. Kaslutoo. Ahhii. Ootpcsheu. Koo8lita. Touhih. KachfUtak. Af;akiMie8ueo. llslei'ukeet. Slifhot. Arh(: Taukiinakoo. Ai'hkoolhiat. glHhaan. KiikUhIi. Fii)iliir tn>u . Q- Qiiii'k (jllill, kiMlll. H. Rain KanploTry . Ravoii ...,. R.m1 RehKlppr.., Kpjdlco Rich River Rw of QhIi. RlK)f Rt Ropi' Rude S. Sark, a. 8aml s™ .... Seiii, 11 . Sell.... Send.... Shoot . . Siek . . . SiiiR Si»lcr Sit (Inwn... Sky Sleep Slow Slumber . . . Snow Snuir Soft Son.lu-Iaw . Spork Spoon Spring . . . Stnrfl Steal •tt'P Stick . . . . Stone... Striiinht . Stronji... Sunnuer . ALASKA COAST PILOT. YocuhuUiry of Utngtmgcx^ dr,— Coutinuwl. 219 rnitliiNkii. AlIiKlnk Iitiiiulicli'ck. AviiliohndtHilt't'k . KulIttM)lci>k C'b(K»hok AllufKik I«ok Xoitiihixia. . . AlikaiK'ciUi . Tkalnnk. Kavabaiift*.. Aiimn'' I'rimlikn (>(>ii('liiok ... XiM'n|riing:i .. KaUki Alujionn — Oobiictlikak Auckr 'I'c('j;li'iha . . Tin)M'iiliH . Vikhndilk... Yariiak . . ... NuI<'k('<'j;If(i 'l'(M)kiii'('l('" . Kk'k Ki'Mh). Rhiici^ KimmihIic^* . Malkli I Nalii-vlliknit. KiMillikiilia ('In't'ii' ^^ Talliill. ley I'alriiih NlH>klHHTttllllna. Cbntalalii . Sjiata Kk'k Scfcn ^"Knazzoon . . . Tt'at8 Kab'cknrckrr. THi'»ialkbi^ ... Tall bey Shiuui Sitkii, TMknn. n:i'i..iMb. llt'trhahtHi, CbayonkiH), ScovvH. Kh'akiH). KIh. Ilaniabt'tt*. Tavvi''. Na.Mb«Mik. Antllnkinti'o. llatri'M. Kitak. llanatant'-. AbbaJtIre. Tikb. Kbu'. T.yk^-. 'I'Ma. IbiM>n. KiHinakA. Atitont. Ilant't'kiK), AtkaHbtc. A''klyak. KauufHi. IIlU-ltH. Xallii. Takcynab, Alii'kbo. Kbyl. Katlyabtti», Abi-rbnb. H.-iktlya. Sb.lb. Taktaba.iabit. Ataoo. KakiMt.'tlak. KaatH. KlyakavooHtnk. Hb-)tH('»*n. Knntaan. Tbcro liave ncvfT bfcn rcindoci- npt Sliaak. U. Alhtkunk . .,. NcM'ts. V. Valli>v ^fmik Vein No')^rak Katlukp. Kichoziiu KcogUillu'e. T<»kni;y. 'KaiHhIlltuOHll M'illk WaHh ■\Vutor .. Taiiiik Tniiak V('i-Iliu('6 AVrak KfUiliali'i'kru (•li;ititak..halik Allok ^Ktaklionlccn AVot Ootcckck ^V1ii«' Aj;v(ik Yaajja. AVhat What ai*« ym afraitl of. Alknk Kliagt.-Iect- iJI.r.y «U'('k»iU 'rMat!4;ioe!itMk. (^iKiM!sa(JK<^. Koot«'K<-)M-i'iiakni)h. AVhi'ir iiro yiui ^^oing . . AVlu'if^ woro you ■\Vhitc Kannnoimu'ftu Kaiialink 'IVIct'tlioen Nrttmi'ii ayouit ^•^ah tiMMUie Kilnh tiMizitoo Tulka^ .... Ivlflyiilh't6. AVhv AVMo Wiml SlukMt'tk AyaiiHlilu(»k'i'» Kvact'k Tn'Itlian Klyakic kifohiK), Wiiitir (»iikHfr(ik •ilici' Kniii''knHli. fU't'tauce/.zaii <'haaiirli(M> Mokolaii AVi|n, Klill ta Wirt*' Akiinikalick KlHtlltlk Aiiliaheiiak (»(MlzvtMlmik*i' WiiUitl Kht. AVoiimii Atftuuilt Sbiivvot. ALASKA COAST riIA)T. Vocabulary of huigiiagvH, d'c— Contiimoil. Kiiglian. Work... Wound . t'liiiliiskft. Avvndft. T. Tpiir Ti'Uow Youug yunurali. I) 7 rt 9 10 11 Klok Miidcloliniik giHilioimziik ■ Atnkcn . Arli>k... Kanki'o . Kiidiiik. (.'liiiiA . Kecyo . Cliccoolok SImiit to. Konai. Hr»>t!HH) . . Skoo'kha . ChfMinlialiliM) ^uoiiha!: Cliaaii Atoi'k ^Viim-iu:')' ^Ialt>1ioii1 ocii Tn^liiliin Knoliib.topii Koiilfii Alliililok (iO. 70. itO. Iflll. Ati'i'in I'hitau socli. Ilnllta. Alci'iit nUnni Hrcli- niita. Att'cni (M'lloon Hi'ch- ii(i})ta. Atci'in kaiic'liciMi Hi'i'lin<»lila. Atoi'in Hcihi'i-n Hcoh- iiohta. Alliatiah Kanki»inl<'in alt'k . . . Sfccjiri'di'in atck Chauuboetlot'iu »Wk Atooiilildliii atpk .. .. Oiilliniiihccdi'i'Ui ntok lCniU'!iiH'nh"'cnlieedc'i!ni nti'k. Si'CHak AUiliii scwHuk ili .Ihiigiiook IMiiga-yoii-iuMdc — Slamannnk Talt'c tnaiKtok Aliii5i'liin(;);t'iionk. !MalH-lion!ipo»iK)k . KurIu liignook Kuidii hooyaiiook . Talt.iaW- Koott'ohazalhecit . Tsoplgtan Ndiitiia T(K.*k-p Taii*k-o T.skwlno ■♦KlHlltnlK'O Kaiit.i-i'dii* I,tak(i<)l <> Lki'i-tmct-lKio *KliOi)"ii ■•■ K'H'liiodk of Hviiirtk . . Sv<'i'iiuk kciidiMiiik a/.liikf>. Si'i'diilk inaMiik Svwiutk ii.iiiliik kiiol. intrtk piii liti yon- l(nik. ilt>iii. T»' ' una •1. ; Ulii.i""ti. Tail!;!' klii.icioii. 'I'skil (111 klujiiiui. KnojiH klnjonii. Kalikriliili kliuu""' THUiitliin. 001 *^ M« X Kihi'iion*. ICtiyi'tt*. Kaiid^ii'luM'tiyalii'lit*'! iHtUl. Klok. Tidl. Kdl.^k. TaikiKiii. Ki'iilii'i'ii. Kitiiiwliiiii. 'rahatmiKhon. .\lM'tsUallHlHlllM>. Kinmliak. L'hcniUaat. Chii'iikaat avaiiliak kfk. t'lici'iikaat avaidiak till. Clii'i'likaat av iiiliak Il(it»k. CliiMiikaat a\aaliak tatrkiHiii. Chci'iikaat a\aiiluik ki-i'i'lii-iM). Chi'i'itkaat avaiiliak kftiKmliiHi. Clii'iMikaal avanhak taliatiMiHliii'i. i'liiTiikaat avalihak iifctHt- atooshiHi. flici'iikaat .ivaiiliak kiMmltak. Kli'k kn. 222 ALASKA COAST PILOT. JII:TK()I{0I.0(!ICAL AUSTRACT for SITKA, FRO^[ Jioin and melted unow/aU at ^itJia, in invites, with the number of. Tear. r Hain . If 17* -J Snow lg-18* ; SiKiw ( Hiiiiiy ilaVH fltain [ Kaiiiy days . riiain Ili4!lt Sn.nv i Jtaiiiy (lays. f"'"" IRW Snow t Kainy dayrt [ Rain IK'ilt^ SiKiw. (l Kaiiiy (lays . llJiiiii lesat Show I Kaiiiy dayn . I ii.iiiiy ilayH . I8.'>4t ^ Kaiiiy liayM . rltaiii. fid IffiOt } Snow I Kaiiiy (W 5 0. 101 ;). 4-jii 18 fi. am 1. 85a 20 11. an 0. H.-i 87 IS. OSS -.10 •i. rm \T, ■1. i:i8 u 34 0. n.')s •i. 4 Ml l(i 8.807 <. • olwervatloim every liiiiir. mi , Ttp ALASKA COAST Pll.cyr. 223 1847 TO 1*2, LATITUDE 57" 02'S,, LONGITUDE IX,^ lr<'.->. days iq)on which rain, snoii; or luiil fell, or when thick fog prevailed. a. 8(1 . 0. !10 (b) ^ 4. k; () 24 3. m:i (I i:i 4. (i7:i 2(1 1. ffll n 4. 124 4. Mr. 22 8.114 211 10. 8W1 (I 2!l fi. nm 18 2. Illf) (I 21 No rcconl. No rt'cuiil. !l 2.71.-. n 19 1.504 5;. ;i4(i 4. ton 81 3. 2.'i 17 8.03 (W 17 9. S08 (I 27 10. 310 ' 2. (irj 1(1 8. 543 U 2:t 7. 181 20 3. 9(i9 22 3.071 23 C. 441 (I 20 5. 790 l.'l. iK. 24 ll.ti(i3 25 6. 3.V) 15 8. 144 23 100. i.59 7. 277 2:1 10. 00 23 12. 50 (b) 23 14.327 20 2. 434 13 2 (il5 22 735 19 8 417 20 2 727 30 8. 070 21 7. 801 21 9. 145 21 14.515 18 (1.110 21 15. 924 \X. 051 10. 4(il 93 e.(i5 23 12. .55 (M 24 11.110 0. 288 25 It. 007 13. 778 21 12. :m 24 19. 527 20 11.5.50 23 11.140 20 9. 8,58 24 0.180 28 B. 830 0. 135 J I il. 7.VI 24 13. 073 24 14. 021 20 178.025 11.808 20 5. 4., 1.41 '\5 11.70 (i.) 22 4. 057 0. 07(i 19 9. 330 0. 745 24 8. 090 0. 294 27 .5. 119 0. 49a 21 0.451 (Tr. nut. (i 14. 71J 30 7. 378 0. 3!l!l 23 12. 090 21 14. 215 20 2. 825 0. 11(1 10 No rct'ord. JJo record. 18 4. 005 0. 090 17 12.039 24 118. 78H 8. 485 23 4.95 3.20 20 1.95 4. 45 ((') 15 2. 409 1.115 18 5. .593 0. 294 2(1 8. 059 0.314 13 0. .537 1.177 1.5. 883 28 9. 0,59 21 5. 079 1. 432 10 14.815 2. 403 2U 8.120 17 8. 800 0. 045 24 X« rocvird. "No rconrd. ('I'r. ino. 7 AH Miiow. 2. ,572 10 10.9'.i7 1.522 28 114. ori K.200 19 39. 80 4.61 7(i. 80 14.45 .53. 3.32 11.979 Kt. 301 12. 407 fifi. 0.50 70. 02:t B. .540 90. KM ■g ff (;;) 44.41 91.25 0.5. 31 1 72. 4.55 87.171 ((/) 77. I(>3 90. 034 --7. 171 8,3. 820 3. ms 79. 393 >,. I«0 80. 758 1. 015 09. 2*18 .5. 835 5.5. .572 ,5. (W« W. 474 7. 475 87.514 (/)7.5.043 Avcrii;ii' fur jl4. 09 .v"'«r». 8:1.33 ;ilichi'H. o H to) i(i3 ((<) 233 2:17 447 21H .\\criiK('. 245 lour liny »"li«-iviiliiiiii<. (•/) Klcvfu kihI loiirlHllw ininitli». f ObservHtioDB from 4 li. to SO h. (r) No ri'iord iitlcr llii- loili. 224 ALASKA ("OAST PILOT. -1' c •^ CO MjK 1 A'.ipj((OJUhH.U,J •111 (i 01 § (a t ptni !s "Hi ■« 9 c. '•wioiijn tni.iiv fi fi ?i fi Mltl A'.ip ? S 2 li S LI TO % § % %. .§ i § \ i d[(( JUt>JllbH.IJ(£ ri ?l li fi fi fi ?; fi fi fi f i fi 3 s s ? H ? S CA g "° s •ii».»m Aiiuo^ t* 1- ** oy 3! ^ 3^ S fi ri fi S fi fi fi fi f i fi 1 i 3 S f^ s ■* ■r 1 1 T* 3 g 1 1 : i fi S f! fi fi fi fi fi ?f fi fi f . fi M-Kim.»AO\^ ?t -f Tl S g 1- 1 ■ % (' \z 5 § fi fi fi fi fi fi fi fi fl fi fi f i fi % n f, S 2 ^ 2 9 s ? f 1 (7 • ? •i.)q(.».i(> '3 3 1 TL 'o H S fi fi fi fi fi fi fi fi fi f fi 1 ' 2 S S2 « !S R S !? ?^ TJ p; != s MJt[(ll_ -^ 3 e i O UtMJ^ 'HllO{)VA.I.IH»ll| JO UH-tJlf C( CI Cl ^ Ci I' ^ c • CI X' -V m 'SUIM1U A'lJlIO.V o 5 3 3 5 •S- •f -r •^ ^ ^ •r 1 r- CI ift M o o M 1- c. *f l-H o 1- ■a.«imdj,)(X j OS b1 Si !^ a B n H ;; c5 fl s ?5 1 o CI o .X) o r- o CI Cl C£ C-. o - uocimoAo^ o 5 s ■V a ^ 'I" g 5t s? ? s 1^ 51 ■n- o ^ h- ^ o O c» ^ Cl c C> •j.iqoiJO o ^ "•• '^ ^ 5 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ * f T *:> o X T< -r cr. •r X ^ (- lO o d •j.iHuio) o ',3 s 3 3 .1 S f4 s s K s s ^? irt o CO t- X o o ^ o O CI Ci ,, •.miip oS 3 1/3 Si o n f! L* s ::- H ^ o 'X W « o ^ r- tC QtJ Ol 1- CI lo « •A'l.'re o5i 1- ^ ^ t; * 5 ^ X ■^ s is 5 >.-s f ■V na o <» e !-S ,^ a- !• w CI ■U-i'iV °s ■^ s s ? 3 -r cl — n T- o ■V re t- rt CI O V ifi to 1- ift •ii.ijun: oS K K s K K ■^ n ^ ?! R ci rf on o L-J Li CI _ CI 1' M X r* e> Oi •A'jun.wi.>^^ OS K S « a ?( ^ ?! i4 S ?? ;? ?! ^ -» 1- f-< -»• X W « 1- © a ^ •XjBnniip ob-i M s U s fi !; ^ ^ ?j s Ti rt i t- ;^ 1 1 1 1 1 1' 1 a ' i I 1 a 3 •a i a .1 t-s f ■S 4 - ■3 c c .C :. •3 5 I S £ *" ^ ' H i 3 Q ?5 ,:^ H ?i uo 220 ALASKxV COAST I'lLOT. ^ O 5r< ,1 a 1 i t-" - S 11 ^ s e g tc c £ .2 ^ "O E ® 4. « a s -? n' R i4 5 S 1 II -, -= -3 r. T 1 i 5 t 1H X : » « - ■^•rr ;i t ) ^ ^ ^ 'A « — •.• ALAS1<^\. COAST IMLOT. "Daily meteorological record at Sitha, Alaska, from May 1 to i^eptembcr 2!>, ISO?, 227 , «-< 'riiiTimiiiiotir, Fill reiilielt. ■i 1 Willll. niito. U.y. Wet. i t 1 f. 1 lb 3 i := a 5 1 a \ Hi iefi7. Miiy I 3 9!). WO ail. 7{ia ail. iiaii ail. ."ill ail. .ii? ail. 717 ail. ino M. l:l.-i :iii. aas ;iii. a."i5 :i(i. a:i!i ail. !I!I7 a;i. !»:i(i ail. s'l'O :i(i. (Ill 1 :iii. o.":) ail. ntci ail. 943 ail. 8H,-. ail. mil ail. -iM ail. 7ii!i ail. IKK) ay. 7IW ail. 788 ail. 77-> ail. iiio an. iW8 a-i.iii.'i at). f.-'O ai). !)ai o 4ii. m 43. 4.-) 43. 13 4.">. 80 4a. 3.-1 43. .-.8 40.71 40. 40 43. at) 43. no 41. 73 4'i.oa :,\.:n M. DO 50. -M 411. 44 .M.41 riK 77 r.o. :.!) M. DO •i4. 14 na. 81 rp.'i. !Mi 411. x^ 41). M 4:). 85 40. 44 48. aa 40. Ill 40. 10 41). !•:> 43. 11 41.71 4.1. 7.-I 41.43 40. 33 4a. 81) 43. 3,-> 41.71 40, 77 4a. o."> 4a. 04 4ii. 4a 47. 00 47. t)0 4U. i)8 40. a3 50. 35 51. Vi 51.03 47.18 W. 08 4i). 70 50. 09 4.->. 83 40. 1)4 43. 88 44. 15 4.'). 80 40. ai 43. ao 43. 93 O Ml. 40. « 411.4 47.3 4.-1. i) .'lO. 3 .53. 4 .5a. a 47. .5 47.7 .'ill. 51. 5 5>. 1 00. 1 55. 53. OU. 3 08. 9 01.8 .5.5. 1 5". liO. 1 oa. M. 1) .'lO. 4 5'.. 8 .1.8 •.II. 1 48. 9 o 41. D 38.7 33. 8 43.0 40. 1 37. 4 33. 8 38. 5 38.7 38. 7 38.7 30. 5 4a.8 4a. 8 4a. 1 4U. 1 40. 40. I .50. 1 41.0 47.7 4... 5 M. 1 43.7 44. 40.8 4a. 8 41 1 40. 4 43. a 41.0 p 59. 7 . oo; .0,-iO . 035 . l.-iO .040 i;., .\i;., .\\v .S\V.. W., K «\V.. NK., K K., NK. SK 3 4 5 S..SK., K Si;., m:., \,\' c 1 7 8 71.5 07.5 «7. 5 S\V.. N\V., XK AV., N\V 9 5 B 10 .aio . oa5 .040 SW., N\V'., NE S\\'., .\'E S\V., SE., NE .S\V.,NE S\V., NE SW U 1 11 I'J i:i 11 .511. 1) 74.7 07.0 88.0 7.3. 70. fl.5 101.3 101.7 07. 5 87 7.5. 9 10 3 1 l.'i S., W •f Hi \K n S., N SW., viiiinlile Viiiiiilili. 10 18 li) 11 4 .190 . 015 . 005 . 100 . alio . oa5 . .590 . 390 S., NE 7 81 SW ]■;., NW 21 NE., UW 3 ai 1) as ('aim 1) . aii a7 .SW., N'K.. E S., SW., E n 9H .SW., NE., E SE HE •\ 30 31 1) MfiUlB . . . ai). 1)41) ai). 803 S!). 888 ai). 8:i0 ail. 818 :«i. (ia."> :iii. (Mil ail. 888 an. !i88 at). !).-)i at), o.v! ail. !i 17 nil. 08.") 110. !.-in :io. iHi7 an. !hw 48. :,9 4.-I. 50 44.41 4.-I. 03 41^ Oil 43. 311 45. 118 45. lit) 45. il5 40. 71 4li. 87 40. 98 40. a 1 50. la 4il.81 50. Iltl 51.48 1 3. 445 1 June 1 a 3 4 5 47.03 41). 1)8 411. Oli 47. M 47. 39 Wl. (i« .'lO. 43 ri0.41 40. .Vl M. aii 4D. II I r.i. M .'>l.33 .M.a:| 54.81 5a. 9 51.1) 51 7 51.3 .50. D 5a. a ,5a. 5a. 5 5a. 7 53. 5a. 5 54. 11 .55. 4 0.1. 8 .511. a 30. 5 4a 8 41.0 4a. 3 44. 4 44. 47.3 40. a 43. 9 40. 3 40. 4.-1. 5 41.7 15. 5 43. 5 83.7 70.0 SO. 3 . 095 . 0:io . 175 .003 5 SW., W., N\V SSW., \V„ N\V SW.. N.,.\E NW., N.. XE., E Calm, NE., E 9 a oa. li n 7 . lliO . 91)0 .990 illu E.,S E.,S n 1) 1) ,SW., K., NW II N W., W 1) la 09 8 i;a. 1 M' 80. II SW , S. Hilrii 1 SW.. .NE S., W. SW 8 ij M., W.,iulm 10 ' (Mi.>4<')'vali>)iiH iiiiult' for Mi\t<'i'ii Ihmuh tliiiU . 228 ALASKA COAST TILOT. Daily meteorological record at Sitla, Alaska — Contimiod. t i If ■a 1 M Thi'vniMmctcr, Fa ircnlii'it. r. 1 .010 ,015 . 005 .015 . 005 . 0.55 Wind. Date. Di.v. Wit. t j t j 5 X ' X •^ -5 j; « s .9 1 ici;7. JllIlK Hi 17 aO. 8.'-i7 ai.Hiii 2!l. 772 2!l. Mm 2!l. t'lill 2!l. 9!P0 ;io. fl.-i:i 2!l. 870 2!». p;i;t so. (B'.l 29. UM 2!l. H(iO 2(1. OIK) 110. 0110 20. 801 o 50. (11 51. 14 54. 90 51.. 57 .-lO. 22 50. 41) 52. 08 (in. 14 ,50. 79 ni.iio 511. 44 .55. 94 58.84 57.91 ,58. 23 .52. 90 ,50. 45 ,52. (i3 ,5(1. 79 49. 01 47.01 59. 19 .54. 00 Xl 98 ,50. 95 51.93 52. 2!) 54. 03 54. 39 .54. 01 o 04.0 55. 2 58. 58. 3 ,52. 5 ,52. 7 (Kl. 04. 6 01 7 0.-). 5.-.. 9 02. 1 ().-). (il.2 02.8 o 47.7 40. 47.7 47.3 49. 40. 43. 9 .54. 5 54. .50. 7 59.7 .50. .-. j ,52. 2 51.8 .511. 9 O 90.0 81.9 82.4 S\V.,S S\V., calm 4 18 SW., W l( 111 20 W.,S SW 1 SI S\V., \Y., NW sa 60. 2 08.7 8;t.7 08.0 SW., calm, N\V 5 ai 24 25 H\V'„ laliii, XE S\V., calin, W SK., E., XE 3 2B >'\V.,M'., ,S \V., .'fE. NE . 27 A 28 99.9 8;t.7 80.4 M'., calm, H\V 1 2il sw., \v., yw 7 :io SW.,calm (t SW., calm Mi'nn» . . . 29.915 52. 82 49. 83 1. 740 July 1 29.777 29. 89li 29. 979 ;tO. 047 •to. 07:l ,■10. o;i7 29. tCtO 29. fi73 29. 810 2!l. 093 29. 7;t5 29. 827 29. 827 29. (Kl 29. 805 2!P. 845 29. 570 2!>. liHl 29. 1)92 29. :ril 29. 075 29. 9211 29. 982 2!>. 909 29. xn 29. 920 29. 890 29. 805 2!l. 818 2!>. 8T0 29. .-108 ,5.8. 75 .50. 54 i)4. 81 .53. 80 52. 51 54. 7fi 57.08 ,50. 20 .53. 71 .53. 89 iVl. 31 .53. 48 54. 25 .515. 17 .57. 13 .55. 44 51. 70 !)4. 40 .55. 78 ,58. 45 .54. 42 .5:1. 44 .50. on .50. 20 .55. 89 55. 04 .54. 30 .55. 02 M. 99 54. 70 .52. (Kl 54. 95 .53. 37 .52. 30 30. 92 ,50. 18 51.04 .52. 77 52. 75 50. 31 51.78 51.04 51. 51 .51. 08 51. 37 .52. 32 51. 10 49.87 51. 30 51. 10 53. 89 53. 22 51. 73 53.71 54. 07 ,53. 09 ,53. 48 ,52. 83 .55. M ,54. 34 .53. 80 51.35 02. 8 59. 9 58. 5 .57. 4 ,50. 3 ,59. 01.7 00. 3 .58. 5 57.0 .55. 8 57.2 58.5 59. 2 m. 4 (Kl. t 54. 58.3 03.9 04.8 (Kl. 8 ,50. 3 59.0 00.8 .59. 57. .5.-. 3 .58. 5 00. 8 .50. 3 51. 5 53. 4 .5(1. 5 .-K). 4 ,50. 49. 9 49. 4 47.7 51. 8 ,50. 5 51.8 ,50. 1 ,50. 40. 4 .'Jl. 47.7 M. ,-KI. 3 ,50. 3 4,-1. 5 40. (i riO. 4 M. 9 .52. 5 .50. 5 51.8 51.0 51.8 ,50. 7 .53. 8 :a 4 48. (i5 88.7 77.0 3 2 S\V., varialili- 3 3 . 040 .010 4 W.,S\V :> U 08.4 72. 5 09.1 .010 . 415 . 175 .070 .195 . 240 . 005 S\V., W,, calm U 7 SW., calm o 8 n 9 10 K., NE.. w'lriulilc X\V., S\V,, calm 11 S\V. calm IS 00. 8 .59. 05. 7 87.8 S\V., W., calm ,S\V'., XE X'E 2 l.T 5 Hi IT SW.,XW.,E SE.,E., XE XE., calm, NW 5 u le 09. 8 88.4 79.0 10 E. caliu 20 .010 SW'., variable 8 21 22 S\V., S., SE S., SW., calm 1 2;i S., XW (I 21 77.0 .005 S\V., W 2,-| SW., S., XW 3 2ll u 27 03. 9 71. 1 ..10O . 580 . 105 1..570 . 335 SW., calm «H (1 2it E.. XW :io (1 :it SE. toNW MciniH , , . «». 815 55.02 52.72 4.125 lm Date. 1B67. Aug. 1 2 3 5 G 7 9 10 11 13 13 14 15 10 It 18 19 20 at 2-2 K) S4 25 2« 27 28 23. fiO 52. 02 Wot. 51.88 .52. 92 .50. 00 48.87 40. 85 52. 92 ,52. 25 54. 27 ,52. 25 .52. 25 ,50. 90 51. 12 47. 75 47. 97 17. 3(1 49. 77 51. 12 .50. (K) 49. 77 49. 10 49. .55 49. 32 .50.00 .50. 45 51. 57 51. .57 .52. 99 ,5.3. 150 .52. 25 50.87 52.25 49. 32 47. 75 48. 90 .50.07 49. .55 ,59. 00 48.87 4(1. 42 47.30 4,5. 95 48. 05 ,50. 90 ,52. 95 54. 95 54. 50 5:i. 15 .50. IM) 50. 33 .59. 02 4.5. ,50 40.85 44.00 40.17 48.87 52.47 51. 35 51.12 49. ,55 49. 10 40. 17 45. 72 45. 95 40. H5 49. .55 w .54. 05 5,5. 17 ,55. 02 54. .50 57. (15 55. 02 ,59. 70 55.83 57. 90 ,5.-.. 40 ,55. (19 ,5(1. .59 54. 1(5 54. 95 54. !(5 .53. 15 .5:1. :I7 .5:1.(111 ,5.1. 15 ,52. 9:t 54. ,50 51.31 ,5:), (10 47. 75 51. 80 .54. 05 ,5,5. 40 55. 85 57. 20 58. .55 .50. 07 1 t I ,5.5. 40 .53. 15 .5,5. ()2 ,54. .50 ,59. 45 57. 87 ,55. 85 55. 83 .59. (15 .5:1. 15 ,59. 70 51. 19 51. H) .53. 15 .5:1. (id .53. (10 49. 10 ,50. 00 47. 97 4(1. (19 49. 80 49. 32 ,50. 01) 51. 35 49. 77 51.80 ,52. 99 ,50. 90 4.5. .50 .50, 40 47. 75 47.07 47. 75 48.87 4H. 42 .50. 29 47. 75 45. 95 47. :«) 4.5. 95 4(1. (19 4!l. 10 ,50. 90 51. rO .52. 70 ,50. 22 4,5 95 ,50. 45 49. 10 49. .57 40. 55 40. 55 04. 15 52. 92 .50. 45 47. (17 49. 10 4(1. H5 4(1. 05 4:t. -Si ;i7. f5 4.5. .50 47. 75 71.7 .9,15 . i:i5 . 1.55 . :125 .010 . 345 . :t:i5 . 7l^5 . (too . 885 I. o:io . 785 . 7.5.5 1. 190 l.:i95 .310 . 1.55 . 7.'i() . :i;i5 . OM .7."iO . 970 1.3:15 1.740 . (105 l.fld . 370 . (idO .040 .820 79. 95 9:1. 05 0:1. ,50 09. 30 . 945 . 005 . 405 .215 1.040 . 4.VI 1.090 Wind. SW.,\K.. K K., .SIC, variablit ■S, Xi:.. K SW., ME., viiridlilo.... Viicliililo SW., vniialilo si:.. K., NK., vnridlili). .S.. ,SK., SW SW., (iilm, NW Vaiiidil,', NW..SW... S., SW., XK,, calm.... ('iil(n, SW., K., S S., I'lilni, H., X., W.... Vniliilili. SW..(aI(.;. NIC S., SE., E., XE E.,calm, N W., ,S., cjiliii, E., SK... E., SE., NE., ciihn .... S., XE.. ciihii, E., SE.. E.. SW., SE.. E E., viii-iiililc E., SE., NE E., SE., NE S.. SW.. SE i:.,SE., NE. E., SW., S., I'alm SW., ialn(, NW W., caldi SW.,raIm, W AV., calm W.,ralin, XV;„ XW. Variable W., NW., calm, NE. E., NW., NE XW., N., calm Varijtble SW., calm, SE E., SW VariaW(, W SW.. calm, varialili). E.. NW E.. NE., SE \'ai'ialilr SW.. XE.. NW SW., NW., W E.,SW 1 230 ALASKA COAST r I LOT, Daily mcteoroloyical record at ^itka, Ahmka — CouUimod. 1^ Tlii'nDiiiiictci-. I'iiliri'nliiil. 1 .s .g & Wiud. i Date. Diy. Wet. t I i5 i c 1 i J3 i, 1 1 1 1H07. 8f|.l. 17 18 an, 042 aip. mi so. TXi fio.iiia so, .w,^ 20. (i70 SO. 4S0 30. tiO I SO. Will SO. »,-i-j SO. 07-2 SO. 4;-' B0,f4l o .VI, 45 f.S. 47 fil. 12 5S. S.') fiS. 70 40. 77 51.12 .ll.:)! 40. 10 40. .Vi 47. 07 4H. 311 47.07 o 40. 10 5(1. no 50. 33 50. 92 Dl.CT 4a «5 5a 87 5(1. 43 4^^. 30 4H.87 47.57 40. m 4.'i. 05 o 5S. (iO 57. 75 50.00 51. M 54.50 51, 57 54. 05 50. (10 51. HO 53. S5 SO. !K( 50. 00 53. 70 47. :ui 4H. 20 4(1. 17 o . 215 3.115 .700 1.040 .410 . 5.')i) .470 . 745 3. .'►15 . ao.-i . S(i.-| 1.0S5 Vurialilo K., Si;., XE. .. 10 SO n ai 3S 50. 4.-) 4(1. 40 40. 115 4(1. 17 4(1. 17 4(1. 17 4(i. 27 4fi. H.-. Ofi. 05 S.,SU SW., S., K K., NK., SK K., N\V., lalra 94 1 8.1 1 Sli SW.. 10. ciiliu 27 i;.. SK K„ X\V 88 n 3fl N\V. calm SW 30 . OM 1 Mcnns of 30 diiv8. 20. 703 no. 40 4a 57 i(i. a.v) For tho ftrHt r-i^htccn diivH or Ortolur lln- jntimint . s CO S: q « I-] u o ti^ i 5 < O O ^ o o Si 1 S5 ■»- t. « -3 o •f< i 1 ?i si Cl It y ? 3 S 3 i fi fi fi ?i ?i S 1 u ^ S 3 S S « 2 SJ t- ?i si ?i «i ?i fi 3 Si fi 1 ?i ?i K ? S 2 SJ S ^ fi fi a fi fi c 1^ ?i ?i S 5 ^ § 1 ^ B fi fi fi fi fi fi fi 1 fi a 2 s ? s 8 3 ;; 5 ?i h i> ?i fi fi Si fi 8 ?i ;3 fi ?i © ^ O S '»3 S 8 S S ?l ^ fi fi S IS si d '? ^ 5i 'i % ii ri = ;? ;s i S g ?? 1 fi fi fi fi fi fi fi fi fi fi .2 M gi a ?i gi as ?! ?i s s i'i i3 ?i 38 S ?i ^ j^fifiaasisfi s ^ i 1 ^ si Q O ft X' i 9 g 3 ?s i-. a fi fi fi fi fi fi fi ^ fi f fi i; fi 2 S gi li S S g 12 S gi ^ ^ gi fi fi >4 S ?i 2 g ::; a - » 8 S "li s s s s g 1 3 1 d 1 S ?i si fi O I* ■TJ r*I ' - I- -i ffl U ?i fe 2 3 ?t 3 fi fi si fi fi fi fi ■rf « a « S !i ? S S ?S '?"■ S ?i ?i 7 S S 3 1:1 S g ?i » 8 jS S ?i S ft •3 i, s 8- 1^ S fi 1^ S i fi fi 2 „ -, 13 u ■; S p Ti '-; f. •* 3 r: = !.-> fi fi fi fi fi Si fi si s si 1 V5 S S !: S S S 3 ? ?i Ji ?i ?( 5 ^ ?i s ?i fi i S S S fi 3 S r3 S 2 ?! s S fi fi S S S fi fi s 1 i 1 I- i i i i 1 1 ? c c 11 i " 1 ; •a i 1 i ^ f 2'"> ALASKA COAST PILOT. 0- 1 1^ '5 2 5 li s i fi ?i ?i 5 % Si ?i ? § 5 i S ?i si fi fi Si i a 1 1 •2 % Si Si Si Si Si Si : 13 Si : ?t 'J : = f, S = 3 S : ii ^ h it \ s si if si %\ ■?. V, ?I : fi fi ?s ?i : 9i 1^ 1 '1 S ? gi 7i Si fi i Si si « 71 t* Tp • t; S s S : Si Si Si Si i si s s s s ?i * si «» s ?. * a : ^ ,•; ?f « i si Si u s s ■i? f5 $ ?i ?i 8 fi s S! S S! 3 : Si fi Si ^ ; fi 1 o i § § r. si S) li 2 % si s s ^ § s i si si si si ; ;i3 r- rt »- i ?i i !3 E ^ St s s » s i t •& t ^ \ fi i E i5 ffl ?i fi fi S S S i3 : S' ^ !^ ^ i fi s 8 a a i a 1 1 fi ?i ? 2 fi ri 1 g § § i si fi fi Si : 8 fi SS ?i O Cl S -** '• S S S S 1 3 Si n a »4 fi fi fi fi 2 g 5 a ; S S fi fi i fi i i fi fi ;■;« = = ; «s" -r lo ta . fi fi fi si ': s ^ ; d s t2 ?. s § fi s !S g g = : li fi fi fi : s i ^3 >4 S ffi ^ fi 8 8 £ S S S : fi Si fi ?^ ; fi 8 1-3 s 'i fi fi rt -H o c» • d t-. » £: ^ ;ii ^ 2i t «|3J'4SJ 5i d • (Xi CT TO ff> -f n n ^ f SI « ;j S K S ii? U ^ ii s? i * ^ 00 01 04 r* X r« o 94 r* S a s« ?S s' ?i M !4tj i;tj sS ' n tc ?» Ti rt r- V r- rt h- rt PI "»■ "r a =f 2 ^i S w ?l S ?! S^ s ?! . fi ;s w « 11 n R o ^ 5 Sj 3S 5i SS !j 'A^jsiiyi a s — 1- r> « S T* CI © a ^ © O M t 71 ?j ^ ^ !:i ^ M H M ? 5 * s; 5! ^ 3 •r p 1 1 a r-* r^ fit et Oi r- n ts ts (o o ?1 P4 f^n n^ ?! i; i^; ^ ^ ^ ?-• J o ■* a x o S -» © O CI M >', s ?i s '4 s 7i 5! 5 tS !j S i 1^ .H TC O « OtJ rt e» m CI to ^ R !j ^ ^ 3 a 1^ rt ti in 51 t* 91 © rt 'J' i a ci ai 1* TT) td ^ gi ;^ *9i S 5*i a 1 1 OS o o « ■v !^ ^ ;: ^ ^ ?! s r- 91 h- I* t- si !| !; i; 3 a „ ,= S S 3 « S t- Tti »0 ?l S ^ S >) 1 ? S 5! r?i S S 8 ?( =5 ^^as^-d's s' 1 ->1 s a h . TO ^ n W W . s ?i ;5 ?i s g CD CD f ■^ i/^ , S ?i S 3 ?S ^ ; re rt « 5» rt . ; s ^ a fi s S5 : Ki s ^ :4 ;« '3 II i N 2 n ^ 1 s 3 S i I if ■< t- f 1 i! 1 pi 30 234 ALASKA COAST PILOT. .H a o re I- •J. 53" JK .2 o § « f^ 1 8 ? S 5 K 13 ?^^ S S S s ,1 1 1 Ci tc CI c S ?i g 1:1 gj rti 1 P ■ c tr. C-. « T* 1- T* TTj 1.-; H ft c» w 35 5^ 51 g? i!^ « - n «-. 1- ^ ^ .S5 '4 S 4 s r. r- « 2. s •;; ^- ^li -r. a ■^ 'V "»■ -w ■* n- ■*• -v s ^ = S S 3 S S ^ Si fi a s s? s ^ ^ ■ X rt c; ^ -j« 1 5 S! !4 ^ 3" Ci r* n 1-t «ri si Si ?i S s i . -4 »H W C- I ^ ^ t^ iH H Si *0 r- XI « s r; ?-! s fi 1^ ■ « i.'S CI -< M ; s *' g ? ■:; 3! '4 Orj iTi cft a ; S i^ !3 3i JS! K ^ Tt i ■^ ^ S « K S t7? n- irt «? S S a) tl rt c- c S ^. S{ S ^ S S S c* a C TJ c •-< !-• t- r; tK ♦-; •* ■* « ir 5' ■ r> I*" -H (« ; S i^ 55 ^ 3 Si? 3 TO ?5 ; TO M >?» 1!^ ■4 — •:- ~1" «1 M (- W iTI ^ s 1 s- g a i rt •»• (C -f -J - ^ S' K a ffl tt -. -. 1- s; s^ rf s ;^ ii if j: 0*i t iii § ? i^uH^ ALASKA COAST PILOT. 2',\i> Obnerratwns of the weather at llioHlioul; Unalanka, for mm years, 1825, 182(5, 1829,* 18»t, 18.'U, 18;$2, 183;J, 18,34,* old style. 1 i(i a 4 May a 6 n 99 24 aa an 105 r> 118 KIC Ml es 7T 77 lOfl 83 75 113 31 4 3 49 7« 75 1 « 1 a 1 1 July 1 4 2 w lor 73 143 39 33 3 3 Octobor 2 a I 113 :tl 113 M! 18 5 7 3 (i ao 13 8H IKi no 8a 84 47 lafl 133 9 « 1 1 (J Total M 3ia 1, S03 933 1,015 8m 398 17 3a Tart of oiirli of thcfld yeiirs. Thrtc^ i)l)«('rvntionH om'h diii'. TImuder-.storms and tiaillKiuakps noted in the above i)eriod ii:-< follows: 236 ALASKA COAST PILOT. Ohscrmiom for (lii-ecfinn of wiml at lUoulionk, I'nala^lo. for 1825, 1S2G, 1827,* 1828, 182!),t 18;5(!, 1831, 1832, 1833, 1834, old xfyle. MuiltllH, JaiiMjiry . . Fehruttry. Hnrili — April Way Juiir July j\U)Jll.'il Xi to .14 21 :n 1)7 5a Ii8 i:t9 1116 i so 10 43 ;i>i •i3 10 I >'> I i:t 18 311 li:i 401 52 HI 48 03 78 W) 17 15 25 a!) :i7 47 319 707 Direction. 74 00 8;i 81 7fl 84 72 74 ,58 54 .37 39 242 s 88 74 84 81 68 89 94 76 57 50 2.56 I, 060 1, 127 29 45 66 87 63 77 130 85 82 94 69 .32 143 ,089 49 48 83 79 I 87 41 73 101 114 93 122 o 'A 00 62 98 67 81 47 23 .54 03 107 73 114 154 1, (K)2 i^ 138 148 81 90 113 130 141 170 149 1.56 i:« 134 042 2, 3:tl * Jaiiunry, Fcbniiiry, .Marili, A|nil, Ocliilii-r. >'(ivoiii1iit, IlcccinlaT. t First Hix uioutlii.. In Hum limu alxint 160 observations lost. Olmrmtiom for the force of trUul at IlionUoul; Unalaska, for seven years between 1825 anrZ 1834, oW «/(//«. Force. Konths. .A tt 1 i .a s £ 7. ti, = s tfamiarv 236 837 S55 830 373 3;« 279 aos 206 309 a;i4 317 v.n 114 167 167 187 113 104 143 131 139 115 110 50 6;t 80 95 60 43 53 48 85 79 77 83 41 36 46 ,'13 31 9 13 9 I'i 46 .54 73 February Mnrcb A|iril May »Tnin» July Antiust ,Sei)t*'inber * October Xoveniber 4 Deernittel- Totiil a, 980 1,6;)4 830 437 Tliiii' (ilij-nviiti'iuM cHcli (liiy. NoTK.— i)n thr 17th ..t Mirvi, (,d,i jj!>th of OvtvUr. \^-X\. the win.) wn« cxtiuonliiiurilv .^li-on- ALASIGl COAST TILOT. 2:]7 Jonriinl of meteorological ohserratioiis at the rilhuje of Tlioulioxk, ishnid of I'lm- la>tka, from October l.SIJf} to April 18U7 by the liev. Innocent Shui/emiiko^', priest of the Unalaska distriet. a e p .a H 2 E 1 Direction ami toire of tlu^ wiiul. AVcuthor. IHtili. o Oct. 'JfJ H 11. I,: . . N(Hin . . .'iO \V. N^\^, nitHlorutc Sky iJilfriliuii^'in^ tlir \\\\\\\v iltiy. i< !•. Ill . . •13 44. tlo. 30 H a. m . . NiHni . . H p. 111.. 40 48 46 S. S\V. li(slit Skv iutiT ■Iiaii;:iii;i. 44.7 S. S\V.. nioili'ia'i- OvciraHt nr jrlonniy. 31 8 a. m . . 40 do CU-ur. Nnou . . 43 \V. S\V., moiliTiito Siinsliint', H p. Ill . . 41 41. :t ilo (.'Iriir mid ;it tiiin's tain. Nw. 1 H 11. Ill . . N 'venindrain. 40. 11 do. - 2 fn. m.. Noon .. 38 40 W., modorato do. HmiHluui) and clfiir, Imt at timcH a wrt nnow falling. 8 p. in . . 30 38.0 do. fmln. fa. in.. Noou .. 30 38 Ovcix-ast )!• ylooniy, and iniuli wet Hnow and Mtmnif K. SIC, viTy 8tr"!!R. 8 p. in.. 40 38.0 K SW., moderate Char and at timcM rain. 40 a SK., fi' Bh Clear and siinnliinr, H!H)Wt'rH. XlKUl . . 44 S. SK., niodcintc rirarand .sunnliinc. 8 p. m.. 41 41.7 do Clear i.nd minrthint', with Hhowei-H. 5 30 AV. NW., fresh OvereaHt. wet nniiw. Noon . . 38 NAV., very strong OvercaHt. liail. 8 p.m.. 3;) 30. 7 do Ho. 6 8ii. m.. Noon .. 39 AV., ni(«liTnto SW., mndi'i-atc. Hunnliine iind at tinicH Iiail, fh .11 , and elundiMr 8 p. ni . . H u. m . . 36 30 3(1.0 S SK li);ht OvereaHt an4 snow. Nmm .. 8 p. ni . . 38 30 ...do Clear and MnnHblne. Overcast, at tinnw snow. 32.7 do S 29 Clear and MunNliine, wiihnnt eloudH. Noon . . 41 do. 8 p. m.. 8 n. m . . NfMlIl . - 8 p.m.. 38 30 E. SK., fii'sh OvciTaHt and wet Hnow, !l 30 44 38 Ovi-reast and dark. \V. S\V., licht 40. 3 S. S\V., linlit. 10 8 a. m.. Noon . . 8 p. m . . do Do. 44 39 N. NK., lijjht Do. 3.-1.3 do Do. 11 8 a. ni . . Noon . . 8 p.m.. 35 41 39 do Cloudy and at tinie« Hnow. Clear atiil sunshine. Clear and witlmut rlnudH. . do 35.0 do 3« .13 do Do. NiMin . . do Clear, HunHliine, anrl without elitiulM. 8 p.m.. 2(i 28. 3 do Clear and withfiiit elimilH. 13 8 a. m . . 26 37 Do. do !).>. 8 1). m.. :ifl ;ifl.3 do Do. 14 Ha. m-. 34 do Do. NiMHl . . 8 p. m . . 32 iitt - - Clear. Monnhine. rhanU, Clear and xaiiahle. 33.7 N N\V fn-sh . . . I 238 ALASKA COAST TTLOT. Journal of meteorological ohgerrations, &c. — Coiitiimed. a IBIUi. Ji'ov. ITt 8 11. Ill . . NlHIII .. (^ p. HI . . l(i H a. III.. NoiHi . . f*. ]>. m.. n f 11. 111.. Nonll .. H p. 111.. IH I> 11. 111.. >"ll(lll .. H p. Ill . . 19 H 11. 111.. Nonll . . K p. 111.. ao H 11. III.. Kitnli . . f Jt. 111.. SI H 11. Ill . . XcMin . . 8 p. Ill . . 22 8 11. Ill . . NlMlII . . f p. Ill . . 3:1 8 a. Ill . . No. III.. 3f: 8 ri 111 . . NlMlll . 8 p. 111.. 29 8 a. 111.. Noun . 8 p. Ill . 30 8 a. Ill . Noon . H p. 111. UfC. 1 8 a. III. NiMlll 8 p, in 29 :io ;t:i 27 41 32 39 39 32 38 40 40 41 42 38 40 41 38 39 42 39 32 42 41 37 42 41 39 40 3.) 3.-1 42 3.-) ;io 34 30 29 40 34 34 :w 3fi 2tl 3r> 34 31 31 29 :t2. 7 3:1.3 34.3 39. 7 40.0 38.3 40. U 38.0 31.7 Dirt'rtion and forrc of tlio wiiiil. yW., nioilcrjite W. N\V., iii(Kliiat«. W., iiKMlcrato N.NE., lijiht do N.NW., fir«li N. N IC, inoilorato . . do do SE., viTj-frfBh E. SE., iry ficnli . do K., very freHli do K. XE., vi'iy fit'sli . E., IVi'Hh K. XE., fivsli X. Xi:., vtiy ficidi NE., tiioiliTiiti* . . .. E. NIC, iiiodrrato . do N. XE., iiimlt'rato . do do NE., miKl(»rat« . do do N.NE.,lit'lil do N. XE.. modornto ... \V., nioiU'vato do W. N\V., v.'iy IVcHh. NW., I'li'sli do do \V. X\V., niodoratc. N.NE., Unlit E. NE., fii'idi XE., fii'nh NE., iiKMliTnto N. XK., frenh Culm do N.NE., fii'Hli Wiatlicr. CU'ar and occasional snow, l>o. Mo. Clear and without cloiidH. Do. Clc)»: and ocniHioiiul hhow. (^'Ifiir illiit witliiiut cloudH. Clear. HiiiiHliiiir, clmid.s. Do. Gloomy and at tinicH hiiow. OviTcjiMt and wet niiow. Ovci-caHl and i-aiu. Do. Do. Uo. Do. Do. Cloudy and a( times i-aiii, OvereaMt and at times rain. Do. <']i>ar and at tiiiieH rain. Clear and cloudy. Do. OvcrcftHt and rain. Do. Do. Do. Ovornist and wot »iiow. Do. Do. Clear anil clouds. Do. Overcast, wet snow. Clear aiitt at timcH snow, (.'tear and uunsliiiic. Clear and at tInieH snow. Do. Clear and without clouds. Overciist, snow. Do. Do, Clear and at times hnilini;. Clear and sunshine. Ove.cast, snow. Clear and at times snow. Do. (.'Ic'iir, elonds. Do, <'lear and at times siinw. lilnnloy and tlliek snow. titiHiim anil at times snow. j A :i ; Minn Iiiii|Mnitinf tnr NoMtnlHr. :Hi. 1 dtiirci-s. Whi'I. N. XK. Kiiin ; miiow. ALASKA COAST riLOT. Journal of meteorological observations, cfo. — Contiuued. 239 1 u "a a £ 1 Direction and force of tiio wind. ■Weather. I) 1800. I'l', 2 3 4 5 7 8 10 11 n 13 14 15 10 17 IH 19 * H a. in.. Nmin . . 8 ]). ni . . 8 a. ni.. N(K)n . . H !». 111.. H a. in . Nonii . . 8 p. Ill . . 8a. in.. Xoon .. 8 p. Ill . . 8 a. in . . N'HHl . . 8 p. in.. 8 a. Ill . . Noon . . 8p. m.. 8 a. m.. Noon . . 8 p. in.. 8 a. m.. Noon .. 8 p.m.. 8 a. m.. Noon . . 8 p. ni . . 8 a. m.. Noon . . 8 p. ni . . 8 a. in . . NlMHl . . 8 p.m.. 8 a. m . . Xoon . . 8 p. in . . 8 a. m.. Noon .. 8p.m.. 8 a. m . . Noon . . 8p in.. 8 a. m . . Noon . . 8 p. m.. 8 a. Ill . . Nwni . . 8 p. m 8 a. in.. No^in . . 8 p. m . . 8b. Itt.. NiHUi . . 8 p. m.. •u 24 a.-> 20 34 2.5 21 :io 24 24 28 28 32 ;!9 :t» 40 ;i8 40 :w 33 33 30 38 42 40 30 40 38 30 44 33 37 41 38 3.i 39 35 37 38 38 39 43 41 30 IW 30 30 39 3.5 3."> 39 37 Clear and at times .snow. 1)0. Do. Do. Clear and suiisliine. t'loudy and lliiek snow. Clear and at times snow. Do. Cloudy ami at limes snow. Clear innl variulite. Do. Cloudy iind jinurin^ rains. Do. C!loudy, rain, and snow. Clundy mid rain. Ovei-east, rain, ami snow. Clear and at limes rain. Do. Clear and variable. Do. Do. Clear, smisliiiio. Do. Clear and elondy. Overcast and mueli rain. Do. Clondy and tine rain. Cloudy and at times rain. Cloudy and heavy rain. Clear and at times rain. Do. Do. Cloudy anil at times rain. Clear and at times rain, ('loudy and at limes ruin. Clear and at limes rain. Clear and elimdy. Clear, sunshine, and at times rain. Do. Dari' and tine rain. Cloudy and wet snow. Clear and at liini"< rain. Cloudy tiiiil heavy vain. Do. Do. Cloudy and tliiek snow, (.'leiir iind sunshine. C/lear and at times rain. Do. Do. Do, Clondy and heavy snow. Eny and line snow. Clear and eloudy. 24.3 20.3 23.0 20.0 30. 39.0 E.,flT«ll N NE liL'lit do S. SE., modfiato do 39.3 S W. iniMiorato do do 34. « SE., fi-rali E. NE., very frcsli do 40.0 39.0 do .S. SW., very fresli S\V., very fioHli S. SE., moderate . . . do do 37.0 do do 38.0 do do S. S\V., nioilerato do do 37. E. X E., very strong E. !Sl!,., very fre»li do 41.0 31.0 do NE lijilit H. SE., niodirati! do do 30.0 i|o do 37.0 E. NE., moderate 240 ALASKA COAST PILOT. Journal of meteoroUnjiml observatiom, tCc. — CoJitiiuie(L s I)i-f. -JO St 3S 33 35 36 37 29 IPtiT. .)itn. 1 H a. Ill N(H>M . H p. Ill . 8 n. Ill . Ni«)ii . 8 ]). in . 8 a. Ill . NiMin . 8 II. ra. 8 a, in . NlMlll , H p. III. 8 a. ni . NlKtll . 8 p. Ml. 8 n, in . Noon . 8 p.m. 8 a. 111. NiMm . 8 p. in . H a. Ill ■ Nunn . 8 p. 111. 8 n. m. NiKin . 8 p. Ill . 8 a. in. NtMin . H p. in. 8 n. in . Nihui . 8 p. 111. 8 a. Ill . Noon . 8 p. ni. 8 a. m. Nmm . 8 p.m.. 8 a. in . Xooii . 8 p. m 8 a. III. Ximhi . 8 p. in . . 8 a. m. NiHin . H ji. m., 8 a. m Noon . 8 p. Ill . , 3!) aii :ii .10 a« at 114 ■M :n M :m :t.-i 2() .■17 4J :n :i4 ;)() :ii III! :ii :i(i a:t 111 111) nil 119 III! 35 III) it(i III! Ill) iiii III! 117 iir> 113 119 ll,'l ll.'l H.-i 30 •-'!). 99.0 110. II Direction anil force of tliu wind. SW., niotU'Vato S. SU'., iiiiMli'i-atu .•<. .S\V., fiv«li X., fi'f.sli N. , very frewli »li ilo N. N\V., moderate . . . N., very Ire.Hli ilo N. NK., voiy strong. . W., very IVe«h ■\V.SW.,fn»h S. S\V., I'reHh S. .SW., moderates do S.SW., light do S.SK.,li);ht E.SK.,Iis;lil E. NIC, moderate NK., niotlerate . . . N. NK., nioderatt^ di) do.... N., fresh. do.. . do N., very fresh N. N\V., very fresh. do N., very fresh N. NW., very fresh. do N., very fresh N.NK.. IVe.'ih do do do do N. NW., very fresli. N., fresh do N. N\V.,nv.sh N. N\\'., moderate N., modtTste do N. NE.,li(?ht. do Calm do do. do di> E. NK., mtiderate. Calm X. N'E.. ntoderate. do E. NE., niodi-rate . Weather. Dark ami fine snow. Clear and tine snow. Clear and without elonds. Clear and iloudy. Dark and Ihn^ snow. Dark ami heavy. Dark and line snow Dark and snow at limes. Do. Clear and snow at times. Clear and sunshine. Clear ami witliont <'Iouds. Clear and elomls. Do. Do. Dark and snow. Dark and tiio' ruin. Do. J*ark and rain. Dark and snow. Do. ('lenrand without >:lui.d^. Do. Do. Clear and at times clouds. Do. Do. Clear and at tinies snow. Do. Do. (^lear and snii^hine. Clear ami ehmds. Do. Do. Do. Clear ami at times snow. Clear and at times clouds. Do. Clear andelcnnly. ('tear and at times snow. (*lear and sunshine. (Mear and without clouds. Do. Clear and sunshine, ('lear and at tinn's clouds. Do. C^ear and snnshiue. (.-leaf and without clouds. Do. D... Do. Clear and al limes clouds. Do. Clear and cloudy. I 242 ALAHKA (JOAST PILOT. Journal of meteorological obHcrmtions, d-c. — Coiitiimoil. 1 H i i Direction and foico of tliu wiuil. Weather. IhBV. o Jan. 'M 8 a. m. ;m j NK., fiTsli Overca«t or dark and tine Hnow. N(Hin . 35 ilo Overeawt and lieavy Hiiow. 8 p. m . 3.3 34.0 ilo OvereaNt and ill linieHHuow. SI5 « n. m. 34 N. NE., nioileiato Clear ami elondy. Noon . 8 Jl. Ill . 34 30.3 N.,fn'8li Do. Clear and Hitlimit eloiids. do 36 8n. 111. a? ' N W., iiiodcrato Clear and eIoud.y. Clear and Hiinidiiiie. NlMlll . ;i;t I W. N\V., niodciatc H 11.111. s» 28.3 N. N W., modeiatu Clear and witlioiit CIondH. 87 8 11. 111.. 85 Calm Clear and at tiiniH elondH. Clear and at timcH «now. Clear and at limes eloiiilM. Nuon .. 38 ■\V., modenitc 8 p. 111.. 80 30.6 do S8 8«. 111.. 35 do Clear and witliout elinida. Nuou .. 30 SW., niodi'iate Clear and at tinie.s miow. Do. Clear and witliout eliinds. 8 p. Ill . . 8n. 111.. 35 30 35.3 Calm B9 E., flCHll NlMlIl .. :i8 do Clear ami elondy. Do 8 p. m . . 35 30.3 NE., vory .■(troiiK 90 8 n. 111.. 36 E. NE., vi'iy strong Dark and wet miiow. NiMin .. 38 NE.,fic»li Jlark and One snow. Dark and at times ralu. ' 8 p. HI.. ;i5 30.3 do »t 8 n. Ill . . 29 K., pale Dark and line .snow. :■ .. Clear anil cloudv. - XlMIU .. 87 do 8 p.m.. 31 25.0 do C'loiidy and snow. l-cb. 1 8 a. Ill . . 21) do Clear and at t lines snow. Komi . . 28 N. NW., lri.Hli Cloudy anil at times snow. 8 11.111.. 8 11. 111.. 20 15 20.7 N\V., I'leNli Do. Do. Clear and at times auow. Do. a do Xunli . . 10 do. 8 p. III.. 13 14.7 do :) 8 (I. Ill . . Noon . . 17 20 do Do. Do. N. N\V., fii'sh 8 p. 111.. lit 10.7 N., very frisli Do. 4 8 a. in.. 10 N. N\V., fnali Clear anil eloudv. ' 20 do Clear and at times snow. Clear and cloudy. 8 p. 111.. 17 17.7 ' W. N\V., inndi'rato D 8 a. Ill . . 27 i E. NE., very i'lesll Dark and snow. Noou . . 8 p. III.. 31 34 do Dark. Dark and snow. , 1 30.7 1 NE., moderate 6 8 a. 111.. 30 Calm Clear and without clouds. Clear, suiisliine, and elonds. " - JsOdU . . 44 do 8 p. Ill . . 33 33.7 do Cloudy and at times snow. 7 8a.m.. Noon .. 8p.m.. 33 4!) 34 1 do Do. Do Clear and at limes clouds. do 38.3 1 S. SK., moderate 8 8 a. III.. 30 ! S. S\V., moderiite. I Noon . . 44 >S\V., moderate. 8 p. ni . . 33 3r>. « ; E. .SE., very fresli. '--- : "■ "-i--*--:.., •■■.■":■ :■ D 8 a. in . . 3il S., fre.sli. ..-..,.. . - . - - ... .,:.... ,- ., ■.,,- Noon . . 42 Sn-.. tle.sli. 8p, m.. 33 38. do. 'Mean Icinpiialiiri Im .lanu.iiv, 31.00 dinices. ALASKA COAST PILOT. Journal of meh»'oh>gical obserrationK, dr. — Continued. 243 1 1 1 1 i t Direction and forco of tlic Wlllll. AVeallier. 1667. o o Fob. 10 8 n. Ill . . Noon .. 32 30 S. SW., fresh. S\V., fiesli. Sp.m.. 3S 33.3 E. SK.,fri>Bli. 11 H n. m.. Noon .. 8 ]). m . . 30 45 S. SE., moiU'rato. 35 38.6 Calm. 12 8 a. ni . . Noou .. 87 28 ■\V. NW., vary atronfc. N\V., fresh. 8 p. ni . . 20 27.0 N. NW., fresh. 13 8 n. ni.. 29 34 Calm. do. 8 p.m.. 30 33.0 SW., moderate. 14 44 Ch^nr and elmidy. Noon .. 8 p. Ill . . do Do. 48 4.5. fi do Do. 15 8 n. m . . Noon .. 8 p. m.. 40 ...(1(1 Do. 52 42 do Cle.ir and without elouds. Clear and at tiioes rain. 41.0 do Ifi Pn. ni.. Noon .. 8 p.m.. H 11. in . . N<»n .. 8 p.m.. 8 tt. m.. 37 37 34 30.0 S. SW.,fiean Clear and at times liail. Dark and at limes snow. Clear and without elouds. SW., fresh S. SW., frusli 17 20 Cafni Do. 42 34 do Clear, sunshine, and clouds. Clear and eloudy. 34.0 E.NE., fresh IS 34 E. NE., very fresh Dark and wet suow. Noon . . 30 SW., very fresh Do. H p. ni . . 35 35.0 do Do. 19 34 ■W.NW., fresh Clear and at limes cloudy. Noon .. 33 W. NW., moderate Clear and without elouds. Sp.m.. 29 33.3 N. NE., moderate Do. SO 8 n. ni . . 39 S., fresh Clear and eloudy. Noon .. 8p. m.. 44 42 . ..do Dark and due suow. Clear a. id eloudy. 41. C do 21 8 ft. in. . 44 S., fresh Clear and cloudy. Noou .. 8 p.m.. 8 a. in . . 48 do Do. 38 43.3 S., moderate Clear and dark weather. S2 37 SW., fresh Clear and without cluuds. Noon .. 8 p. m.. W. SW., fresh Do. 34 3ti.3 do Clear and eloudy. aj 8 n. in . . 35 W. SW., moderate Clear and without elouds. 36 "W., moderate Clear and at limes suow. 8 p. m . . 8 11. in . . 34 26 SW., fresh Do. 84 AV. NAV., very fresh Clear and eloudy. Noon ,. 25 N. N W., very fresli Do. 8 p. ni . . 8 a. ra . . Noon .. 8 p.m.. 24.0 N. fresh Do. 85 26 29 Clear and without clouds. do Do. 17 84.0 do Do. SO 8 a. ni.. Noou .. 8 p.m.. 8 a. m . . Noon .. 8 p. ill . ;i2 do Cle.ar, sunshine, without clouds Do. 33 39 41 35 SK. fresh Clear and cloudy, 87 S SE. frcsli Do. .do Do. 38.3 do Do. 244 ALASKA COAST PILOT. Jourmil of mcteoi-olotjival ohHerrafinnH, dr. — f'oiitimiod. 1807. Feb. 88 iliir. ; 10 u IS I I H a. m. ;iii Ndiiii . 40 « 11. m . :il H n. Ill . :i', ^oini . ■M 8 p. 111. ;« 8 H. Ill . It) XlMIIl . 4.1 H p. Ill . 'JH H a. III. ;ij NlKHl . •i."i 8 p. III. ;« H a. ni.. :w Nuoii .. 3t> 8 p. 111.. 33 8 a. HI., :),"> l\'ooii .. 4:t 8 p. 111.. 3(i 8 a. m . . 37 Noon . . 3!) 8 p.m.. 35 8». m.. 3!) Noou .. 41 8 p.m.. ao 8 a. m.. ,')5 Noon .. 37 8 p. Ill . . 35 8ii. 111.. 38 Noiirk 1111(1 line .snow. Daik and wit snow. Darlt unci ruin. Dai k and wet enow. Dark and heavy rain. Dark ,iiid line snow. Clear and cloudy, (,'lear and siiiisliiiie, no clouds. Clear and without eloiids. Dark and line siio»r. Dark and line rain. Dark and lu'avy rain. Do. Clear and at times rain, (ilooniy ,'ind heavy rain. Cloudy and at times rain. Do. Clear and at times ruin. Dark and thick snow. (,'lcar and at times snow. (;loudyandat times snow. Clear, sunshine, without clouds. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Clear and cloudy. Do. Do. Dark and thick snow. Clear and cloudy. Do. Do. Clear, sunshine, and cloudy. Dark and wet snow. •ileau temperature for February, 3:1.3a deprces. ie67. Uar. n le ID SI 32 S» 84 25 26 27 39 30 ALAHKA COAST PILOT. Journnl of meteorological ohmrmtionif, ctr.— Coiitimieil. u:> 8 1. Ill . . Noon .. 8 p. III.. H a. 111.. Noon . , t* !>. III.. B 11. Ill . . Noon ., ^ p. in . H a. lu.. Noon . H p. Ill . 8 n. Ill . Noon . 8 p. III. 8 a. III. Noon . 8 p.m. 8 a. in . Noon . 8 p. 111. 8 11. in . Noon . 8 p. ni . 8 a. III. Noon . 8 p. III. 8 a. m. NiMllI . 8 p. m . 8 a. ni . Noon . 8 \). in. 8 a. in . Noon . 8 p.m. 8 a. m. Noon . 8p.m. 8 a. ni . Noon . 8 p.m. t i 40 43 3« 38 40 31 3S 44 37 45 40 44 44 45 40 42 49 39 38 43 43 41 44 37 41! 43 36 32 34 28 35 23 21 23 35 27 37 42 35 29 3fi 24 40.3 30.3 39.0 44.3 43.0 40.6 40.3 31.3 23.0 Ulii'i'tlon mill I'orii' tUo wliul, or .S. SK., niodcrato S. SK., liKlit do .....do do Calm do S.SK.,ll)jlit K.. irt'illl S., i'ltwU do K.SK,, firnh S. SK., fii'Hli do K.SK., fiTsh S. SE., ficBh do S.S\V'., ficsU a SE., IVoHli do E. SE., I'lTsli SE., I'losb do S. S\V., moiU'iato . . . do do AV., iiiodi.'iatc do W., S\V., modirate . NW., fici,li N., Kiilo N., vt'ry Htroiij? N\V., fiTsli SE., fivah S\V., fiinh do W., viiy fieali . N., fiesli do SE., niodcrato.. AVcttllicr. Char and iloiiily. Do. Cloudy and at tiiiicH rain. I'o. Cli'ur iiiid at tiiiirH rain. Clrar and w itliont iloiidii. Cli'iir and <'loiul>-. n<. (ilnnniy and lit-avy rain. (Ml ar, Kiiiinliini', at tinica cloiidH. 1)0. Dark and rain. C'K'ur and at llniiH inin. Cli'ar, Hiintihiiio, at tiniert cloniU. (ilooiiiy and lit-avy rain. Clear and at tiiiioH vain. Cloar and clondy. Do. Do. Clonr, Hniislilni', witliout ilondn. Dark anil rain. Do. Clear and cloudy. Do. Dark ami Hue miow. Clear and clondy. Do. Dark ami hiiow. Do. Clear and cloudy. Do. Clinidy and et times mow. Dark and at tiiiicB (mow. Clear and cloudy. Do. Daik and hiiow. Clear and at times hiiow. Cle.ir, Biinnliiiii', witliont clondM. Dark and hiiow. Clear and cloudy. Do. Do. ' Mean temperature for Ibiity days in March, 36. 81 de({ree». 240 ALAHKA COAST PILOT. nummary. Month. NovcihImt IffiO Jaiiuiiry iaU7 . . Febniiiry 18(17 . Mnrelil8fi7 .... Mean tomiiuratiiri'. Daily nmxiiniiiii. Daily iiilnijiiilni. Xii. rloiidlou (laVH, 3fl. 1 o 41.7 o 30.3 a 33.9 41.0 S4. 3 31.7 37.0 at. 3 33.3 45.0 14.7 3G. 8 44.3 !£l. 4 lldloM INDEX. Vagp. Ailinlrnlty !»liin(l loa AlaMkii, };i-iH'i-al ii})|K-ariuice uf coast &d AlftHkii, ^('iK-nil ilrs('i-l|ition of cooHt 50 AliiHkii, couHt (-liiiiatcof 19 Alciiliaii iMhititlH, t'litiiato of 27 Alcxiinilcr Aii'hi|ii'Iii),'o, ditailiil ilescilpliim of t'H|«-!*, liiiyH, liarboi-H, icjlaiiiU, &c fiD AlHikh Uivii- IXi AiiuTican Hay tH Aiiclior I'oiiit 185 A|i|ii'nclix No. I, Obat'iTiitiouii on tho geology of A laskii 193 Apjii iiilix No. 2, List of the (•"Ogi'npliical iiosllioiiii. 203 ApiM-ndix No. :), Voraiinlal'y of tlio lali^;ua^i'H of IhtuialivfMnf Kndiak.L'Uala.'ika, Ki'iiaiantl .Sitka 215 Atiia or Copix'!' Kivcr 119 Ayulik l!ay 171 B. iiaiikn: Uevil's 76, 90 8»aOtt<>r 117 Williams 117 Harlow <'c)v»' 10.") liaiTcii iHlniiilH 177 liai icii Itock 7B Jlayn: Anici'icau 91 Ayalik 171 Ha7.aii 91 lUlirlii); or Takutat 1:17 Uei'iicr's 100 Carter 14 ChaliiierH 103 ChlcliaKoir 78 Chiigaibik 184 Coal 183 Controller's 140 Cordova 90 Ilry 135 Fish 124 rri(?ato 10 llanniiij; 102 Holkliivm 112 llood'8 103 Home Ki liy 141 Iphicoiiia 95 Kuliiiina 124 KanitMcliak 192 Kazarii 79 Kliaz I2."i Kwitk.shiia 10 Lindi'iiln'r); 125 Litrtya 131 Lower Kontswxv 103 Mary 123 & Itoys ! Taun. .Mct.miKliliii II 1! lid I iKl Niika 173 Niitchc'k I.'>5 Qiili't CI Kat8tcli HI lU'd ^'J Hi'Hurreetion 110 Saj^inaw 109 S^'yiiiour 112 Smijx ('orner I.^H Wpaxka Kli) Steamer el St. Johu'ii 122 ToiigaH 7ri THehirikotr 100 Zaikoir 159 J!u7.aii liay 91 Uelim Canal MO lielirinH Hay or Takutat 137 lierner's Itay UW liiorka IxlaJiil 1 Hi Itird or l'orpi)i|U> Koeks l.V! Hrooks llarlior l.-i7 litu-art'lli Sound 94 c. Capes : Adammiii 05 Addin^toli 95 Harnett HID Jiartolomo 94 Hazan 99 Cnamano 80 Chacon H!l Clearo ICO CroH8 128 Decision 97 I)ou);laH 179' Ed^eenmho 1 Ifl Kdward 125 Klizahelh 174 Fairweatlier 123.134 Fairwe-ather to Capo Phi])pH 135 FauHliaw Ill Fox 74 (leoraiann 123 ITanmnd Ill ilineltenlirook 155 laktaj! 142 loy Kyi;!tiio i(0 .Manliy 137 Muorey 75 North IIU Northumberlund 75 Muuez 90 ran 248 INDKX. c. Capon ; r«Rc. f)iimiiiiify 100 Uiih an.}' toCniKjEdRociimbu 114 I'liipiw 137 )'lii|.|.H lt ami iiitirnccting KdniU 100 fMiicliat'iiir lla.v Tg Chilkalit I'.iviT )U7 r:iij»ill Nlaiids 171 i'lailinnndi'Ify Soiuul 7!) (']il(;^arh InlailtU 1Y4 f ;!iiij;acliik Hay iMl <'la:"}iri' .Siiund 77 Can lie,' Sminil, iiortliwi-sl cnlniiiri' 96 Cliiiialc 1)1' lln' Al.uUali I.^lalliU tt7 ' liiiiiih' "I' Kailial , SB riiiiiat^Mil' Sitka 21 • ''imatc III' Stikiiio Uivcr ^0 (.'oal Ila> lg.1 *..'»orii>tf(m 50 Coayt <:!ima(o ol .llaaka # 19 CiiaHl of llir ocean Dorlhward of Cajvj Hihucit i;ii ''onlnpllci'.s liav mo ('vinkV liilot 175 (.'■ipiicr or .Vtiia lilvor 149 t'oi ilovii Ila y 91) Coniioranl Itiiek i;t2 Coroitatiitii iHlaiitl 97 (JroHK .Soiinil or J'.\v SIrnit ""1, '29 CiUTOiiIti ol tbii Xoitli I'acilic (H D, I>aviilH(UiGl»'"ior 100 Da.v'x I.'rulMir 17(1 Uetaili (1 lUsiihitioii of oajiCH, buys, harbors, iNlniiils, ScV;. of .*.'.txaiKbT .Arvl.ipflaiio 69 D(!vi!'» llaiik 70 no Discovciy PasaaKP )i llistaiu'o of Sitka ri-oia San Friim-woo, tlip dinct iimisr iiiioparoil witli iiitiiior iiavigalion r>.fi Dison Souiiil 71 Disoii Simtid. draits, IiayH, and yapo.^ on 74 ,! Mubl fill rmV , a ! 14,-, Dry Day am' .VInukli liivur i;|-, S. ICii.dirii lioik j3._) Kiisl Koiilaiid 1^7 Klfanorl 'ovo itrt Miilraiiio. to I'limi' .Viriiaiii Sound ... i.-,i Kti.llii Ilmhoi- ^1 i:i.i|iii I,.l,tii.-.« _ e[ V. Pu(j.>. Fiiibiyson Chnnnpl ].; Finb lUiy i«j4 Fort Coimt.iiitim) i,-,7 l-'islicripft 40 Fit Inl/^li Sound 10 l-'oiTcsIt r SHlaiid ((.J I'orl Siiii|i.sim 1^ Fnibriek Strait, its bnys, horhors, nnd iiiteraeotiiig ('"""^'K'-" 108 Frifiato liay 10 Fui-btjurinj; animnlH , 3a O. Oarrtpn Oovo j.-jd (ioni'ial apiioaranro ^ka 50 ilarbors tliroufjb tlio luehipelrtKOH 8-19 St i kino lidvt'v foj Olaiior .\rni. Taku Klvir 11:1 ( Jl.iiifr Davidson uk! (iold.Htri-aiu Harbor lo (iouldiii^ llailior |ij7 Graham 01 Knubsh Harbor lel Oriiviua iHlandn 73 iJn■R^ Archiiiidaso Qt) (iroal Ciirli' ruiito from San Franoisco to .Tapan. . . 07 ""^- 141 I''} I'lPO ];)! Icy Strait i>r Cross Sound io,| j 39 Iiy Strait, I.slands i,i y.^ Iliiia Harbor ],« I|)higcnia !Viy [ pj Islands; Admiralty ](,., .\Ii'xuiid('r, Arcbipflago of the 70 Barren j.- lilorkii ,j|| Cai>e or St. I.azara ^^ Cenotaph j.^j Chiswell ,-, <.'IinKa
  • . 157 40 10 !« 16 108 10 38 UrliidiiU . Hnzy Hill Page. 79 90 197 llincliiulii'iHik l''>3 I1hl;iii •'■« III lev .Slniil 130 K:iM' »r Kiiyiik •■*■• Kiiijjlilx 139 I.iit'iiii'hu or KiHit !"7 .Miirluiuli 119 .M..iiliiciii' l-'il' Oti Ink nr Miililli'ton H* I'l .•stihalii m- Fiiliw ell 107, lOH I'MViiiolm ((I'Tiu-iiabmil HI JV ' iw SinllBli I'-M 79 Ull 97 79 Skill 'i'iinijij;aiu Wiiiii-ii ■«•(..!({,. Wiiiji'Mlu KS VubIui 103 J. jMiniial 111' iiu'toorologioal oliHiTvaliciiia at llicni- Uimk, UiiuluKka Ka<]iak, rliiiuitc uf Kiiiliii K.iik K.ikr Strait Kakiiii UiviT Kaliiiiiia liay KiiiiiiNrliak Hay Kau' nr Kayak iMlaml Kazi'.rii ilay K'tnai I'liiiiisulu Klia/. Hay Kliikiitcliif or SiiliMbiiiy SIihU Kiiiclil'* Islaml Kiiii-k itr r'iri- Kivrr KuliflHirt' Uo<-k Ivvialisliiia Ikiy Ky^aiii' Iliirliiir K> iiiiiiipt Ilai Ijor IM'U Itiif Luiiia l'itw.'ii(io I.atoiiclii' or FcKit lalaiiil . I.iKlil at Sitka LiiiiU'iiliiry Ikiy i>ion'« Ili-aft Litlli' {'r»«8 Strait Ijtiija May I.dW Iiilit Liiwtr Kiiiitstiow Bay ... H. Mac'local IlnrlKir Maiy Hay SI.I,au«iil in Riy Mfl<'"riil.i(;i4lauilltH: I'll;.'! Nl'IM'Ull II (dUil I*! ( Umildl iir Sluwls 188 I'aikii 104 IVrcy 18 I'oHHl-HHilin 188 Pykc 168 HcHimi'i'tioii 170 Hi'licnt ' 105 Kiwi 7a Sali»tiury HI* Siiinnil 10;t SiliUiiliakli lOa Siiliuliiin 10« Siiikllijj 100 S(anl»>iM- el SI. Miiry HI6 Styliliiilll 113 Siilli villi 102 Tlakiiiikul 10:i Tiiiiki>i 81 Valli'inar 73 VuiHii'init no Walpi.li' lia Wiiiilliaiii lis Wliiilliiy 106 Wi.ionwi I!H) l*n)inla(i