IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) V /. / / £"< ^v <" 'i< f/j :/. 1.0 I.I 1.25 00 Ilia iiM IIIM |||||22 .. m 1.4 2.0 1.8 1.6 o c^] c^. c'J % // oy^. Photographic Sciences Corporation 4n^ v^^ «^ :\ \ ^^ k\^\- ^ ^.^<»^ % 0^ '^V 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 W Q>. CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. 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This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqu6 ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X 12X 16X y 20X ] 24X 28X 32X I tails i du odifier une mage The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: Morisset Library University of Ottawa The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grdce d la g6n6rosit6 de: Bibliothdque Morisset University d'Ottawa Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettetd de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. 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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds d des taux de reduction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour §tre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche & droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m6thode. irrata to pelure, in d n 32X 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■ ^ Pi t>lp A., CANADA; ^-- '-"'^^ FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF: THE COUNTRY, ITS PEOPLE. RELfGIONS, POLITICS, RULERS, AND ITS APPARENT FUTURE. IIEINO A COMPENDIUM OK TUAVEI- THROCOH THE Upper and Lower Provinces, TOGETHKU WITH A nKSORIPTION OK THEIR ReSOI'RCKS AN1> EXTKRPRISES, TrADK, STATISTICS, KTC, VIKWKD BOTH IN' IIS MlSINi;SS, SoClAl, AM) I'oMTKUt. Asi'GCTS. Its vAiuors Citiks and Simmku Rksorts, Salmon Rivers, etc., !-\ ^->il •lor.KTlIEK WITH THE Lcffeiils of ttie Lower St. Lawrence and tlie Cities on tie Coast. 1\ l'A(rr, A VA1.UA15LE A\D [XTRRSSTING ROOK FOR BOTH TRAVELLERS AND HOME l-\)LKS. WITH NUMKKOUS ILLUSTRATIONS. i!v CAPTAIN MAC. PRICE, SO cts 2« out veal : PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR. 1881. ^; i PREFACE. HAfu' '"'^'^^'"^ *^"'. "^""^^ "P«" ^ generous, con- fiding and unsuspecting public, I have not a word i ^' -i^.u^^'^r ^^ ^^**"" '^ pages anythin/l have said that I m glad of, I'm Torry for it ; Lnd «f ni ^1/ '^l ^\T ?"^ energetic remarks, I'm still glad. Should the bored peruser gain the leTr T^'\ ^'[" y^' ^'^^ ^ but should laddeTr ""^ half-dollar sought, " I'm "MAC." Mrfz r" ILLUSTRATIONS. Marquis and Marchioness of Lome, Frontispiece. Mississippi Steamer. High Bridge, Tennessee. Wine Company, St. Louis, Mo. Niagara Falls. Fort Niagara. Toronto. Court Reception, Ottawa. Steamer in Lachine Rapids. " 6cottsh Mistrust." t "The Samtly." Montreal. Notre Dame Cathedral, Montreal. Quebec. Falls of Montmorency in Winter. Falls of Montmorency in Summer. Perce Rock. Capes Trinity and Eternity. Halifax. Cod Fishing on the George's Banks. B' '^^ MARQUIS AND I'HINCESS. Canada and the Canadians. A TRIP TO THE UPPER AND LOWER PROVINCES, LAKE ONTARIO, AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. In April, 1880, I laid back in a comfortable chair at the St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans, whilst a negro boy was energetically endeavoring to put " de Crescent City polish on de shoeses," prior to my rambling at the Lake-end and around Spanish Fort. Whilst the boy was thus occupied I fell into a reverie, and my mind seemed fully occupied in trying to decide upon which route to take during the long summer months now fast approaching. Whilst still men- tally cogitating, the porter, an acquaintance with whom I had become tolerably familiar, soon brought me to a deci- sion, for, said he : " Say, Captain, so they say you're goin away,so you are ; which way are you goin ? " " Well, Phelim," I answered, " I expect to go north, through Alabama, Geor- gia, Tennessee, Kentucky and Illinois, to Chicago ; then possibly through Michigan, and perhaps into Canada." " Oh, bedad," said Phelim, " are you goin wid thim Kanucks ? That reminds me whin I wuz there, in '65, wid Gineral O'NaiUe, how we loike to hev' tuck the whole cunthry frum thim." This remark decided me, and in a few days I was en route for Canada. In the spring a journey through the Southern States is most delightful and invigorating, and with the hearty t *(■■ 6 CANADA ; welcome the traveller receives at each new stopping- place ; the anxiety of the citizens for news, both political and general, from other states, stamp the population at once as being both hospitable and highly intelligent. Stopy)ing respectively at Mobile, the coming seaport of the Gulf then again at Montgomery, the first capital of the Southern Confederacy and the prettiest laid-out city in Alabama ; again at the flourishing Gate City, in Georgia, which, in spite of the ravages of Sherman and his blackguards, is now fast rivalling New England with its manufactures and indus- tries, we hurry through to Chattanooga, the Mountain City of Tennessee, and there were treated to an unusual sight for a citizen of the sunny South. A first-class snow-storm was in progress, and the mountains surrounding the city were covered with the fleecy white crystals. Lookout Mountain looked especially grand and majestic, clothed in her winter drapery, but the transition from summer to winter was so short — twelve hours only — that it seemed hardly realistic, and, but for the sensation of cold experienced, we could hardly reconcile ourselves to the fact. From Chattanooga we were fortunate enough to embark on the first passenger train on the New Cincinnati Southern Eailroad, at that time under the management of Mr. T. C. Gabbitt. The road runs through some of the wildest moun- tain scenery in America, and is certainly one of the triumphs of engineering science. Its construction has cost the city of Cincinnati alone some $13,000,000. The High bridge over the Cumberland river is said to be the highest trestle in the world, and is over 160 feet above the bed of the river, and certainly demonstrates to what perfection iron bridge build- ing can be brought, for in crossing the feeling of the traveller is that he is gliding through mid-air, and is really without T FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. " visible means of support." It was stated that, should tlw passenger drop a rock or ])iece of coal, whilst the cars were in the centre of the bridge, the train would arrive at the other side before the missile struck the water. Of course there were plenty of experimenters, but results were unsa- tisfactory. Arriving at Lexington it was but a short trip to the " Falls City," Louisville, prettily situated on the banks of the Ohio — thence through the fertile states of Indiana and Illinois, to the future great metropolis of the West, St. Louis. This city, that in 1850 contained but 40,000 in- habitants, is now a busy hive of human industry, and num- bers over 500,000 people. Its commerce is great and con- stantly increasing. Its industries are both staple and enterprising, whilst its public buildings and parks command the admiration of the entire Westeru people. Smith's Garden, owned by an English resident, rivals some of the boasted parks and gardens of the South of England. Anheauser,the brewer, has an establishment that would com- pare favorably with Bass or Allsopp ; whilst the American Wine Company, for the manufacture of " Cook's Imperial Champagne," possess cellars that would be creditable to Mumm of Reims, or Cliquot of Epernay. Under the guidance of the genial president of the company, who is untiring in his efforts to please and entertain his visitors, we wandered through their fine vaults or cellars, where the manufacture of champagne is carried on, and, as the process may be interesting to the reader, I will attempt to describe it : these vaults, which are claimed to be the largest cham- pagne cellars in the United States, occupy the entire space between Cass and Garrison avenues, and are divided underground into various departments, in the first of 8 CANADA ; which we see the large casks of this season's juice as it comes from the grape press, the wines from each district being kept separate. Then we notice the large vats in which the wines from Ohio and tliose from Southern Missouri, and other favored localities are blended. The wine is then racked off into bottles, well corked, and arranged with their necks downward in rows on pujyitres or stands, where they undergo for several months the moving process in order to settle all the sediment from the wine on the cork. After viewing the labyrinth of underground vaults, filled with thousands of bottles of wine admirably binned, we return once more to the light of day, passing through walls of barrels of last year's vintage still in the wood. We then pass on to ihG finishing room : here we find seated in a row, each before his special machine, skilled workmen ready to give the last touch to the bottle before it passes into the hands of the consumer. Workman No. 1, called a ddgorger, had to practically solve the difficulty of expelling from the bottle the accumulated impurities lying on the cork, and forced into that position by the skill and watchfulness of the movers or remeurs ; this he accomplished by a skillful withdrawal of the cork, when the force of the explosion forced out, with a wonderfully small loss of wine and gas, the obnoxious deposit. This done, the bottle is passed on to Workman No. 2, who proceeds to infuse into the wine a small but fixed percentage of a luscious nectar, technically called a liqueur, the quantity being determined according to the taste of the market, thus solving the mystery of " dry " or " sweet " Champagne. Workman No. 3 then proceeds to replace with a new cork the bouchon de service, power- ful machinery compressing the yielding wood, and inserting into the narrow neck of the bottle a cork that appears quite . ■ FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 9 out of proportion to the duty required. Workman No. 4 is the stringer who skillfully adjusts the twine, making by physical force the cork assume the mushroom app«'aranc6 with whirh we are all so familiar. No. 5 then wires the bottle. No. 6 deftly adjusts the gold or silver leaf, and to No. 7 belongs the duty of affixing the label or brand of the firm, thus completing the work and leaving the bottles ready for the packing room prior to exi)ortation for champi>gne drinkers found the wide world over. In New York city, the manufacturers do not go to all that trouble ; they merely procure Jersey cider, condemned wine and suljihuric acid, sweeten it and charge it with carbonic acid gas like a bottle of soda water, label the bottle and place it on the market, thus saving both time and expense, and materially assisting the spirit merchants in their sales of brandy to relieve the pains consequent on the absorption of a bottle of New York champagne. From St. Louis a twelve hours run across the State of Illinois brings us to that energetic, bustling and prosperous city, the grain emporium of the world, Chicago. Still hurrying onward twelve hours more, and we reach the thriving City of Detroit, the river alone separating the State of Michigan from the domain of Her Imperial Majesty Queen Victoria. It is probably at this point the visitor first ••otices the wide difference between the enterprise of the Americans and the seeming apathy of the Canadians. Although Windsor is the terminus of the Grand Trunk Rail- road and the nearest town to the Western States, still enter- prise seems dead, and the ennui of the people so pronounced that they seem disinclined to make any exertion in their own behalf or for the advancement of the town they live in ; there, however, is some reason for this. The younger people i li I io CANADA ; all cast a longing eye towards Uncle Sam's possessions, and hope to some day explore for themselves the wonders that are so freely talked about on the return of those who have visited the States and settled there, for of the numbers who yearly visit their relatives, but few ever express a desire to return to live, whilst the older people don't care so long as they have enough for the time being, for, as one old gentleman remarked, " What is the use of the Dominion " Government expending vast sums of money for emigra- " tion, if we can't keep either the laborers or domestics over " here ; and it is my belief that Canada is just becoming a " recruiting ground for the United States, and will eventually "become annexed to that country." At Windsor the idea is prevalent that the Wabash K. K. will purchase the Great Western, and the people express their entire approbation and delight at the prospect, and will hail the purchase, should it be consummated, as an omen of a return to prosperity and good times for their section of the country, for accounts of the wonderful change wrought b^ the Canada Southern through an otherwise barren district are continually quoted and commented on. Crossing once more to Detroit, wandering through its spacious thoroughfares, admiring its public buildings;, and visiting its immense elevators and wharves, it seems hardly possible that the people across the river could know- ingly have allowed such an opportunity of building a western terminus to slip through their fingers, but the fact is apparent to each visitor. Taking the night boat, " City of Detroit," we have a pleasant run of 140 miles to Cleveland, arriving at the latter city in time for an early breakfast at the Kennard ; thence by the A. & G. W. to Buffalo, the Lake outlet of the Erie and New York Central 11. R. A twenty-two mile ■ ! '■: fe ; ■ f M.. •i- ' ■» a O FEOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. la run further on brings ns to the famous Falls of Niagara, where we conclude to stop at one of the fine hotels on the American side. Whilst at the Spencer House it was my good fortune to become acquainted with Sir Arthur Kennedy, who with his amiable daughter and attendants were doing the falls en route from Australia to London. Sir Arthur, who was the Governor General of Queensland, has been an official in Her Majesty's service some 38 years, and was now: on his return to his native country. I found him a most agreeable acquaintance, a studious and close observer of human nature, and a perfect fund of information and anecdote. His satire on the selfishness of Canadian politi- cians and its grasping capitalists was certainly pungent and pointed. The contrast between the magnificent hotels on the American side and their reasonable charges with the accommodation offered and extortion practised on the Cana- dian side is most marked. The only hotels on the Canada side affording a view of the Falls are the Prospect House, owned by Isaacs and his father-in-law, Davis, the owner also of Table Rock (they still stick to a good portion of the Israel- itisli faith and despoil without mercy) and the Clifton House, which latter is generally leased by speculators. There is one other hotel on the Canada side commanding a good view of the Falls, " The Brunswick." The following, given for the information of intending visitors, is a correct copy of a one day's board-biU on the Canada side : 1880. Dr. Room 115,- Mr. Board 1 Dy., Lodg, Bkft. &Din 7.00 Dinner claret, $1.50 ; Extras, 1.15..2.65 Bus 1 way, 50c ; 1 way, 25c 75 $10.40 il. u CANADA And when the mild-eyed visitor informed the clerk that he but arrived at 5 o'clock a.m., and was away again by 5 o'clock p.m., too early either for tea or supper, he was assured by that gentleman that it was all right; the charges were all the same whether meals were taken or not, and, as a matter of great condescension, he informed the visitor that next time he came to the Hotel they would give him supper free of charge, knowing full well that one slap each season is quite enough. No wonder, if those charges are kept up, people from the States will no longer sigh to do Niagara Falls for the summer, for the only way to travel here would be to pay the bill but kill the clerk, and so check high-handed despotism for the future. Niagara Falls, once so noted and well-patronized, has, it seems, of late years fallen into disrepute with the summer travellers, and the cause is still left unexplained, although numerous theories are advanced : whether it originates from the grasping propensities of the hotel proprietors, or whether it is a natural consequence of the scarcity of really good views without large payments, is one of the facts for the public themselves to determine ; but that patronage has fallen off most lamentably of late is a fact well attested, although I was assured by one searcher after truth that a great sensation would be produced next season that would once more awaken an interest in the Falls, for the leading inhabitants had subscribed to a fund for bringing scientific men to visit in a body, and as for some tirue carters and others have been actively engaged in dumping rock both in the waters above and below, it will soon be scientifically demonstrated to a confiding public,and the figures accurately given to prove, how fast far-famed Niagara is receding towards Buffalo, and it will be ample proof the sight of the FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 15 immense pile of rock dumped from one end of Goat Island. The effect at night when the rays of the vaii-colored electric light are cast over the Falls from the park is one of striking beauty, and makes up in measure for some of the many disappointments experienced, whilst a walk across the new Suspension bridge, almost in the midst of the vapor arising from the Horseshoe, and a ramble along the bank of the river to Clifton, two miles below, is really de- lightful and pleasant ; but, finding a residence at the Falls expensive, we journey on to Lewiston, seven miles below, on the American side, thence across the lower river to Niagara village, some twenty miles below, and on the borders of Lake Ontario. This town is one of the oldest towns in the Province of Ontario, and was formerly the seat of Govern- ment. Here we found rest and quietness, good fishing — both black bass, herring and white fish in abundance— quiet and contented people; and moderate charges, a consummation most devoutedly desired by all summer travellers. And were tourists aware of the many advantages that are offered by this almost forgotten little town, and of the pleasant sights and trips on the lake that can be indulged in and the real enjoy- ment obtained from a short stay, visitors would fiock here in thousands instead of passing by almost without a notice. But to enjoy a week's rest and catch the fish yourself for meals, and find them served on the hotel table, piping hot within thirty minutes after they have left the water, is an experience worth miles of travel. The town, although so near the great highways of travel, is completely isolated. Business, the little that is attempted, follows the same routine from year to year ; no energy is evinced, and consequently no desire for improvements. Here the lone fisherman is found in his primitive state, and even the bustling business man after a .^L • 16 CANADA ; short residence generally busies himself by endeavoring to forget liis worldly education and enjoy the universal quiet of the surroundings. Ojiposite to the village, on the American side, stands old F(jrt Niagara, silent, grim and sentinel-like, to guard the entrance to the river in the interests of Uncle Sam. The fort is very strong, being of regular construction, and mounting many guns, with stone towers at the west, south-west and south angles, and is now under the command of Capt. J. L. Tiernan, who has seen such active service on the plains and in the far west, and who at present is resting on his laurels in peace and quietness, which must contrast strongly with his lately adventurous life, but who in time of danger would be probably wider awake than to allow such a sacrifice of life as that permitted by Capt. Leonard, whose command were mercilessly but- chered in December, 1814, by tha Christian soldiers of a Christian king. The attack by the British on the night of December 19th, 1814, is thus chronicled : " The attacking force comprised the 100th Eegiment, the Grenadiers, com- panies of the first and the flank companies of the 41st, with some artillerymen, the whole under the command of Col. Murray of the 100th. Bateaux having been secretly con- veyed overland from Burlington Beach to a point about four miles up the British side of the river, the troops silently left camp about ten o'clock at night, concealed their march under cover of the adjacent woods, embarked without noise, and landed undiscovered on the opposite side, whence they descended cautiously towards the fort. At that time Youngston, a village about two miles from the fort, served as an outpost, and was garrisoned by a small detachment from the fort. The attacking party thought it necessary FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 17 to surprise this outpost without alarmiug the main body ; so a picked number were sent in advance, followed closely by the renjainder of the attacking party. When they arrived in Youngston, some of the former crept up stealthily to the w.ndow and peeped in; they saw a party of ollicers engaged at cards. ' What are trumps ? ' asked one of the Americans. ' Bayonets are trumps,' answered one of the peepers, breaking the window and entering with his com- panions, whilst the remainder of the detachment surround- ing the house rushed into it, and bayoneted the whole of its defenseless inmates, that none might escape to alarm the fort. Not a shot was fired on either side, the sentries having retired into the building to shelter themselves from the extreme cold, giving them no time for resistance, and there- fore allowing their assailants to finish their work of human destruction in grim silence. Eesuming their march the attacking party drew near the fort, not a word was spoken, the muskets carried squarely so the bayonets may not clash ; the ice and crusted snow crackled beneath their tread, but the sound was borne backward on the gusts of a north- east wind, when suddenly the charger of Col. Hamilton neighed loudly, and was answered by a horse in a stable not far oft' from the front gate. The force instantly halted, expecting to hear an alarm suddenly given, and the sound of drums and bugles, and of the garrison rushing to their posts, but all remained quiet ; the sentries, crouching in their boxes, take the neigh of the charger for that of some horse strayed from its farm house, or from some neighboring hamlet, and they felt no inclination to shiveringly explore the thick darkness of a moonless, wintry night. The approaching force, finding all was still, put itself in motion, went hastily and silently forward, and the crisis was near. 18 CANADA ; The 'forlorn hope' was commanded by Lieut. Dawson and led by Sergeant Spearman. Halting about twenty-five yards from the gate, the Sergeant strode onward, and strange to say found the wicket open. The sentry, hearing some one approach, issued from his box and asked, ' Who comes there ? ' Spearman answered, at the same time introducing his shoulder through the half-opened wicket, 'I guess, Mr., I come from Youngston.' The sentry, perceiving from his accoutrements and actions that he is an enemy, tm-ned in- wards, exclaiming, ' The Brit — ' the poor fellow said no more, Spearman's bayonet was in his side. The sergeant then called the • forlorn hope,' which swiftly entered, followed by the column ; the light company of the 100th made a rapid circuit, and escaladed, and the whole attacking force in a moment were inside the fort. Once inside they uttered a terrific yell which roused the sleeping garrison and occa- sioned a slight show of resistance. Lieut. Nolan of the 100th, a man of great personal strength, rushed into the lower part of the tower in order to bayonet the slumbering inmates. Next morning his body was found, the breast pierced by a deep bayonet wound, at the bottom of which were a musket ball and three buckshot, but he had taken the lives of three sleepers before he was stopped. One American lay at his feet whom he had killed by a pistol shot, whilst the cloven skulls of two others attested his strength and the rapidity of his actions. Some of his men followed him and took the tower, slaying its defenders to a man, and so brutalized were the victors that they rushed wildly into every build- ing, bayoneting every American they met. In half an hour the fort was captured, and the blood-glutted victors sought to drown their excitement in drink and sleep. The short con- test cost the British, Lieut. Nolan and five men killed, and FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 19 two officers and three men wounded. The Americans loat 65 men, and two officers killed and twelve men wounded. Thus fell Fort Niagara, and with such unexpected facility as gave rise to the report that treasim had contributed to its capture, and it was charged that C/'a])t. Leonard had betrayed it by giving to the liritish all the necessary infor- mation and countersigns. It was also known that a large sum in specie was in the fort at the time of its capture, and it was openly charged, and ever afterwards believed, that some of the officers had embezzled the specie, and their increased expenditures justiiied the accusation. No enquiry, however, was made by the British, and the jmze money which had been expected to be large was disappointingly small. Although the Americans have to a great extent for- given some of these massacres and extended the hand of friendship to former enemies, still the descendants of these marauding midnight butchers cherish within their breasts the spirit of hatred and animosity towards the descendants of those whom their fathers did their utm ost to destroy." On the shoals near the fort are most excellent fishing grounds, and the chief recreation of the summer visitor is to sail out to the shoals, anchor their boat and lazily read or dreamily pass the long sunnner day away. In the evenings and on Sundays other recreations are of course indulged in. The people of Niagara are friendly, hospitable and entertain- ing in their way. A retired Scotch gentleman who had resided here for the past four years, and with whom I had become on intimate terms, after solemnly assuring me over and over again that I was standing on historic and almost holy ground, voluhteered to show the sights, so, after accepting his kind offer, I accompanied him to the little church-yaixi on the rise, where he pointed with pride to the graves of t , i i ' r 1 IJ '*', ■ >, (■ b. i 20 CANADA ; seven young men who were dvovvned wlnlst ongn<,'e(l in the unholy sport of yachting on Sunday. After drawing conclu- sions, and pointing out the moral for my benefit, he then proceeded to show the beauties of the battle ground and recount how many fell, indulging meanwliilc in numerous comments on the perversity of the ])eople of tluise times. Seeingso many evidences of dissolution around me, and the near approach to that somnambulent state by those still in the flesh, we bid adieu to the peaceful little town, and a 15 miles drive brought us to St. Catharines. Here we see the spirit of enterprise on every hand, contrasting strongly with the town just left. All are agreed, and are loud in their anti- cipations of the great benefits to be derived by enlarging and making the Welland a ship canal, for the develo{)ment of direct trade from the West to Europe, each one bespeaking for this bustling little tt)wn a grand future, and increasing prosperity for the country round about. From St. Catharines it is but a half hour's run by rail to Hamilton, which city is situated right in the l)ight of Lake Ontario at its south-western extremity. Here all the business of the Great Western Itailroad is transacted, and under the able management of F. Broughton, Chas. Stiff' and their efficient corps of officers, the road is becoming rapidly one of the most prosperous and best patronized in the Dominion, actively contending with the Canada Southern for a portion of western trade. Should an American company succeed in obtaining control, the Great Western would become a Trunk route from Chicago to the East, and would compete with the Grand Trunk for a considerable portion of the carrying trade of Can- ada, It was rather a curious fact to notice whilst in this city the hold that Democracy has upon the people them- I I FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 21 8( Ives ; for several days it had been announced that H. R. H. I* ince Leopold, the Princess Louise and suite, together V, ith the Governor General, would })ass on their journey to Niagara Falls and a tour through a i)ortion of the States, still when the train arrived at the depot scarce 50 i)er8ons were assembled to pay their respects to Royalty, and the few attended mostly from motives of curiosity alone. About the only ones to greet the party were the American Vice- Coiisul, the railroad managers and a private American citizen. No enthusiasm was evinced, not a cheer rent the ai as a welcome ; silently the Royal party arrived and as silently departed, but the episode served to convince us more thoroughly that the people do not so tirmly pin their belief in the " Divine right of Princes " as the official sycophants would have us believe. At present there is a wordy war progressing between the rich and poor on the subject of the Ssatt A t debarring the sale of beer, wines and spirits in small quantities ; the poor people look upon it as a curtailment of their rights, and assert that, as they have been brought by these people to this artificial mode of life, they are only following scriptural advice, and trying to " drink and forget their poverty and remember their misery no more." The city itself lays some half mile back from the depot, and contains about some 25,000 inhabitants. The people themselves are an odd mixture of Yankee energy jartially developed and old time tardiness; however, several enterprises are established, and at present are in a paying condition. There are a large proportion of Scotch among the population, and they seem to vie with each other in emulating American ways. The city "s a pleasant one and the people congenial and social, and lc>ok forward to renewed prosperity in the near future. Brighton and 22 CANADA ; Burlington beadics, situated betwoon the bay and Lake Ontario, are tlie favorite resorts of the people during the summer. Fr(»ni HaTuilton a nio.st delightful sail is by tiie steamer "Southern Belle" or " liothesea Castle," two of the old-time blockade Heet, to Toronto, a distance of some 40 miles. The vessels during the American war achieved notoriety for speed as blockade runners from Nassau, but, of course, they have been overhauled considerably, had upper works and top hamper added, so as to almost alter their ■ appearance, although they still retain their reputation for speed. The sail along the lake was one of the most delight- ful that can be imagined. On a pleasant day, with the water calm, and sailing under bright skies, nature itself seems almost to enjoy and appreciate the holiday, and lend an additional charm to the scenery on the borders of the lake. The " Belle," under the command of Capt. Keith, has become quite a favorite with both the people of Hamilton and Toronto. Arriving at the latter city we were surprised to see still another blockader, the old " Letter B," one of FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 23 the most famous of the Charleston fleet, ranking next to tlie " Miir<,Mn't and -h^ssio " (afU^rwards captunjd olV (Jhai'hjs- ton, S. C, on her lOth tiij), and converted into the Hnp])ly steamer " Mus.saehu.setts "). The " Letter li " is now called the " (yhicora," having been remodelled entirely above her main deck on purpose for lake trade. She now runs during the season, under command of Capt. Ilarbottle, K. N. K., to Niagara. Capt. Har))ottle and his brotlier navigator, (Japt. Dick, of the " City of Toronto," are ]»robably the most po])ular men on the lake service, and although strict discij)linaiians wliilst afloat, they are most courteous to their passengers, and ashore socially are the jolliest of comjjanions. " The Law of Ood is greater tlmn your lawa ! Ye build your church with blood, your town with crime ; The lieadrt thereof give jud^^ment tor reward ; The priestH tliereofteacli only fur their hire ; Yo\ir laws condemn the innocent to death, And against this I bear my testimony." Longfellow. Toronto contains at present some 75,000 people, and is situated on an arm of the lake. It is substantiallv built, and is claimed to be the most enterprising city in the Dominion, and is ambitiously striving to become the depot for Lake and Ocean trade, and a transfer point from rail to shipping. Whilst watching the arrival of the trains at the Union depot, I noticed two enterprising Americans meet and greet each other ; both were commercial men, and equally animated with a desire to introduce their goods and secure a portion of trade on a reciprocal basis. " Well, Jim," said No. 1 , " wiiich way are you bound ? " " Back to God's country," said No. 2. " What ! " exclaimed the first, " back already ? 24 CANADA ; Why, I thought you came here to make business and stay awhile." " Well ! so I did," replied No. 2 sadly. " I tried hard and thoroughly, and found these ' Kanucks ' an uncon- genial set, almost entirely under the control of their jietty politicians and masters ; they are like the ice on their shores, you have to break it to get there, and when you arrive you find nothing but rock, and their hearts are of the same material ; in fact, they are the coldest, most selfish and most unsocial people I ever met." An Italian, who had been quietly engaged in sustaining the walls of the depot with his back, overhearing their conversation, interrupted them with, " Unsocial is it you call em ? oh bedad, there is wur ye Tuak' the mistake. Sure I hadn't been in the city twenty-four hours before me arm wuz bruk in two places, me legs was car- ried away from under me, and by mornin me head wuz cover- ed wid patches, and the Judge fined me five dollars, and all for looking wrong way at a police, bad cess to him ! Bedad, they are the most sociabilest people I ever saw." The business men of the city are striving and enterprising, and were it not for petty officials and leaders of opinion, who are con- stantly both impeding and endeavoring to curtail and })lace obstacles m the way of the trades develo})ment, Toronto would soon be the leading city in the Dominion, surpassing by far the city of Montreal. On the Sunday we had the pleasure of attending St. Andrew's church, and of listen- ing to a long dissertation on the history of Job and his patience under trials, difficulties and despoliation, which might have been modernized by the history of many a God-fearing Southern family during the late war, but somehow or another the preachers seem to have gone back considerably on the bloodthirsty doctrines advocated by Moses and his Hebrews, and dwell more and more on -J H .* ,'~> H i FROM THE LAKES TO THE (iCI.P. 2f6 r. I ! those Gentiles or Heathen, such as Jol), wlinse faith was firm in adversity, and freely quote him as ati example of meekness and trust. The book that bears his name is a pleasant one to read — treachery andmurdfi- occupy no part of it; it is the meditations of a mind strongly impressed with the vicissitudes of human life and by turn sinking under and struggling against the pressure It is a highly- wrought composition, between willing submission and in- voluntary discontent, and shows man as he sometimes is, more disposed to be resigned than he is capable of being, after finding he has been despoiled by his fellows, but he seemed deteri.iined, in the midst of ills and liardshi})S, to impose upon himself the hard duty of contentment. It has also been observed that the book itself proves to be the production of a mind cultivated in science, of the know- ledge of which the Jews were very ignorant, and certainly were as illiterate and superstitious as Southern negroes at the close of the war. The prayers of Job were touching, and evinced a strong and earnest faith, greatly in contrast to those of the Hebrews, for the Jews never prayed but when they were in trouble, and then never for anything but vic- tory, vengeance and riches. The sermon was an appropriate one, for in a few days the community were about to hang to the death an unfortunate fellow-being who, in a moment of rashness, and under the influence of a false education, had attempted to obtain what he considered his rights, by firing a shot with the intent to kill his employer, — a wound was inflicted by the servant's act, and shortly afterwards the employer died, even then it was stated possibly from his own indiscretion. The meek and lowly followers of Chris- tianity, bearing in mind the prayer of their Saviour whilst in His death agonies " Father forgive them for they know ^L 26 CANADA ; not what they do," demanded at once the life of a fellow- being. A judge and jury were quickly got together, the man found guilty, sentence of death passed upon him, and some of the newspapers remarked " that the life about to be sacrificed, even were it a dozen, were nothing to the one that had gone before." Fie upon the belief that God made man in His own image, and the prayer Our Father, when such practices on a brother can be tolerated by a Christian people. And even after the hurriedly-passed sentence had been carried out on the body of the poor wretch, there seemed to be a grim exultation when the papers noticed the fact that the man was poor, and no friends had visited him whilst in jail, and the executioner had tortured the condemned by strapping him so tightly as to cause him to cry out with pain before hanging. In order to preserve the sanctity of a human life the Government, rulers and leaders of opinion, should set the exam})le, and, by jirompt punishmetit for crimes committed, impress the crimii^al with the certainty of punishment, and the knowledge that the Government would reap the bene- fit of his services for the remainder of his life. Far more fear took possession of the evil-doer, and more terror struck the hearts of the Venetians, by the terrible uncertainty as to what became of the one condenmed aftei- he crossed the Bridge of Sighs. When the verdict of guilty is rendered and the sentence pronounced, the criminal should be for- ever lost to the world outside, and his disposal left a mat- ter of mere conjecture to the community, the mode of pun- ishment being known only to the Government and its officials. Students of psychology assert that, after the sudden removal from life, the spirit hovers near liie scene of its execution, and we know that with all its evil thoughts ,' » It 1^ ^i«? i I. .^ I:" FROM THE EAKES TO THE GULF. 29 and those still more bitter, tliat on meeting with a kindred spirit in the flesh with whom it can come in rapport, it at once identifies itself with its living " companion, so that the evil thoughts and actions of the last shall be worse than the first" ; or, not finding a medium to affiliate with, will, like the apparition that appeared in December, 1628, at the Palace of Berlin, called upon the Almighty, and was heard to say : " Veui judica vivos et mortuos ! Judicium mihi adhuc super- est." — Come, judge the quick and the dead ! I wait for judgment. That the disembodied spirit does hover about the spot of its taking off is a well attested fact, and, as in but a short time we shall have to appear before the Almighty power that created us, it is my belief that there is no crime in the category that will justify the taking of a life of a fellow-being. Surely the punishment by the power that created us will be far more terrible and complete than the pitiful vengeance man can mete out, and oftentimes unjustly Again the constant repetition and hearing of such scenes brings to the surface, and fosters in the heart, all the baser passions of mankind, besides breeding a feeling of contempt for the life of another, that all the outward forms of Chris- tianity cannot obliterate. Among the principal buildings are a University and a Cathedral The church of the Holy Trinity was erected by a donation from a wealthy person in England of £5,000, and the seats were conditioned to remain free. As in other places both churches and min- isters are for the most part merely tolerated; the seem- ing fondness for both church and pastor are in a great measure merely affectation. Employers attend in order to set an example to their employees, their wives and daughters to display their finery, whilst the servants attend 30 CANADA ; '&■ in order to stand well in the esteem of their masters, but both seem to have no particular love for the preacher. The hotels of Toronto are well kept, and the public generally are well catered for at a moderate charge, impositions on travellers are very rarely practiced, and, taken altogether, the city will some day become a pleasant resort for enterprising and speculative Americans. The Great Western here joins the Grand Trunk Itailroad, thus forming a continuous line through to Montreal and Quebec. Toronto Bay is a popular resort for yachting, boating, and other aquatic sports, and is well patronized, whilst on Sunday Hanlan's Island is the resort of the boys, as the bar at Hanlan's hotel is always open without any restraint. Amongst the cosmopolitan population assembled here in summer time how easy it is " to distinguish the cdld-blooded calculating denizen of the northern latitude from the vivacious warm-hearted resident of southern climes, Mexico or Cuba, but possibly the climate makes the difference, not only with men, but with plants, trees and even animals : the new-comer lately from his sunny clime is full of life and vigor, and liberal in his views, but were he to remain here no doubt he would become as inert and useless in this frigid zone as many of the inhabitants themselves. • ' Embarking on board the steamer " Spartan " of the Eichelieu and Ontario line — which line it is asserted is about to pass over to American ownership — we arrive successively at Port Hope, Cobourg, Cataraqui, and are soon among the noted Thousand Islands. These islands, of which there are some 1,800, commence about six miles below Kingston, and extend for several miles down the St. Lawrence river. Our passengers, whilst admir- : ■ 1 ! H o o Bi H :v I Viv FROM TITF LAKES TO THE GULF. 33 ing the islands (at this season of the year covered with verdure), rather took as a grim odieial joke the (Govern- ment notice that the virgin forests were to be preserved, and affixing a penalty to any one found feUing tiniluu- on the islands. Now about the only ones we could imagine attempt- ing to fell timber would be some forlorn jay hawker from Kansas, where they have no timber except willow and cornstalks, and he would oidy fell it with his pocket-knife for toothpicks, for on many of the islands if an unfor- tunate goat were to land at night he would browse away all the timber before morning. Some of the islands are so large that a cat might sit on them by keeping perfectly still, but to keep dry she would either have to wrap her tail around her neck, or else let it drop in the water. (N.B. Some of the Islands are for sale, full particulars, etc., from agent.) G. M. Pulman, of .sleeping car notoriety, owns one of the Islands near the American shore. All along after leaving Port Hope the surface of the lake and river was covered with myriads of dead fish about the size of a shadine, and numerous theories were advanced by our passengers to account for their sudden demise. The day 1)eing very hot, a scientific piscaculturist insisted on the theory that the sun shone so intensely, so bright, and so warm, that the fish, startled at such an unusual sight, came to the surface of the water to ascertain the cause, when, of course, they were sunstruck and died immediately. Upon ex- pressing this opinion, the votary of science was unanimously requested to take a back seat, and study theology for the balance of the trip. Another theory given was that the Fish Commissioners, having obtained a grant of cash from the Government for the propagation of fish in the rivers and lakes, had wisely expended the amount, less their own -1 34 CANADA ; percentage, in trying to acclimate salt water shad to the fresh waters of the lakes and rivers, and, having used all the cash appropriated, were now asking for more to further the experiment and enrich themselves. Seth Green might take a lesson from the knowledge of the Canadian Fish propagators, or at any rate we could find a few Americans who would constitue as good a Fish Commission, and render as voluminous a report as those worthies on the Salmon disease, Messrs. Buckland, Walford and Young, the grand triumvirate of Fisheries Inspection for Great Britain, who lately finished their investigations as a com- mission into the nature and cause of Sahnon disease, and rendered their report of 1420 pages of closely printed matter in which they state, " that the fungus looks like wet brown paper, and is really a kind of soft down which attacks the salmon's nose, and thence directing its attention to the back of its head, tail and fins, so enfeebles and dila- pidates the fish that it swims about in an imbecile manner on the top of the water, and eventually dies mad. The disease is known scientifically as Saprolegnia, and is considered to be ' like ' the muscardine which attacks silk- worms, and not far removed from fungoid diseases which attack man and vegetables.* * * The fish are Tiof good to eat and are not pretty to look upon. It may be a new ailment or it may be an old one, and though the Commis- sioners incline to the latter opinion, they cannot speak with any assurance. As to its cure, it may be effected in two ways : either by eradicating the disease or by rendering the fish less susceptible to its attacks ; " but which method should be employed the Fisheries Inpectors would not ven- ture to assert. Meanwhile the Hon. Commissioners are of the opinion that " all dead fish should be removed from FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 35 the rivers and buried above high water mark or burned ; and, after all, the Commissioners fear that these conclusions are inadequate." If any three lunatics in American asy- lums could not prepare a better report for the Government for the sum of $1000 than these Hon. Commissioners, then it is about time (iither that they were hanged or otherwise elected to office by their fellow citizens. After leaving the Islands we next call at Brockville, a thriving little town of some 6000 inhabitants, and connected with the capital by the Brockville and Ottawa R. R., thence on to Prescott, where we remain to witness the military mancEUvres and the sham fight on Dominion Day. In no two counties or states can a greater contrast be seen than is here presented by the Village of Prescott on the Canadian side and the City ot Ogdensburg in the State of New York. Wliilst the one shows American thrift, go-aheadiveness and prosperity, the other looks nothing but a sh ill or a ruin. The town itself is in a wretched condition, thi streets ill kept, business is but small, and, were it not for the small amount of cash spent by summer visitors and railroad travellers, the people must either starve or emigrate. Although the Bank commands a good amount of capital, it demands such terms for its use that no improvements are ever thoi'ght of, and its merchants have no idea of ever increasing their trade. There are two breweries and a distillery in Prescott, the owner of the distillery is a member of Parliament, and distills enough whisky to control every vote in his dis- trict. He is also one of the most enterprising men in the place, and one who endeavors to keep up with tlie times, making several trips yearly to the States, and no doubt adding to his general stock of knowledge, as also to his fine breed of stock. The hotels are small and prices proportionately JLL^. r 86 CANADA ; hil^li, livinjj; poor, iiiul tlio visitor is very n])t to make foreiji,'!! iU'ilUiiinliinoos at aliiinst any liour of tlu; day i>r ni pro- 'iiitecl , small a ted a u in 1)61", ople to ' mbriu'. false ideas upon this point. It is dnu here to state that the niilitia were drilled nnder the personal super- vision of the old veteran, Col. (?. Shepherd, who, after years of active service in the Jvist, is now passing the even- ing of life in his j)leasant home at JJnrritt's liapids. It was by an aitack on Fort Wellington from Windmill Point with a small company of liberators that the gallant, brave and noble l\)lander. Col. Von Schonltz, in the year 181)8, won for himself a lasting name and a respectful word even from the lips of his enemies. He was the soul of honor, and as cool of head as he was brave in heart, and even though he perished with his faithful band of followers, still he was revered as u foeuian worthy of a better cause. IJut had he been guided (even feebly as he was supported) by an intelligence brighter than his own, success instead of defeat would have crowned his efforts and his cause ; but liis superior ofHcer, General Birge, was the impersonifica- tion of absolute cowardice and a thorough craven at heart who brought upon himself, by his false promises, the obliquy, of the loss of lives more precious than his own, whilst his name became a by-word and reproach, for the men who sacrificed their lives even in a fruitless cause were esteemed and respected by all. Mr. Mac Donald, the bearer of the king's despatches from Toronto to Syracuse, at the time of the siege, is yet alive, and actively engaged merchandizing in the City of Montreal, and, although now waning in years, is social, energetic, still on the qui vive for business opportunities. From Prescott to Ottawa is but a two hours' ride by the most dilapidated road in the Dominion, and through an unproductive region. The land is barren and sandy, and covered partially with rank growths and scrub timber -« .'i: 38 CANADA ; entirely unfit for agricultural purposes, but still has good locations for manufactories of various kinds. The inhabi- tants when pointed out their opportunities ar.a rallied on their lack of enterprise invariably reply, " Oh this is a new country you know. It will take time to develop it." Still it is an older country than the States, and note what they have accomplished in the last one hundred years, or take for example even a section, the Southern States, who fifteen years ago, at the close of the war, found her lands laid waste, her houses burnt, her fences destroyed, her lal)or scattered or driven off, and her produce carried away out of the country, in fact she was the realization of desolation itself. Now see the change : her houses are rebuilt, farms are well tilled, manufactories are estalilished at many points, and to-day the Southern section is the most prosj)erous of any section of the whole country, and the prosperity of the South has materially assisted in causing a return of good times throughout the whole nation and its influence is even felt throughout the Dominion. The City of Ottawa, the seat of the Imperial Government of the Dominion, is situated on the l)anks of the Ottawa river, just below the Chaudiere Falls. These falls at one time were probably i^uite a feature in the scenery of the city, but now they are so marred and disfigured by log runs, canals, saw mills on the banks, &c., &c., as to destroy in a great measure both the view and the romance of such a natural attraction. The present population of the city is about 15,000, and is divided into two classes — Government officials and lumber dealers, raftsmen or connected in some way with the lumber interests. The whole trade of the city is supported by these classes, and it is safe to bet that every second per- son is a something in the civil service. The Parliamentary O C jl 1 ii ( ; ii \ i 1 FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 41 Houses are a splendid block of buildings in the Italian Gothic style of architecture, and cost the people of the Dominion the sum of $3,000,000 in their erection. They are pleasantly situated on the summit of rising ground overlook- ing the river and falls ; the grounds are well laid out, and pre- sent a good appearance. Parliament being dissolved but few of the members remain in the city, most of the pro- minent officials being off on their summer vacation, — those remaining are generally interested in the mission of Sir John A. Macdonald, who visits Europe in the endeavor to induce British capital to aid in the construction of the Northern Pacific Eailroad. These hungry political cormo- rants are watching with eager and expectant eyes every move, and anxiously awaiting their chance to get a finger in the pie ; but the English capitalists are getting to be a wary set, although a prominent stock-broker in Thread- needle street, London, averred that, in the City of London alone, there was some £50,000,000, seeking an investment in 1880; they have been bitten so often by honest Canadian speculation that now they are rather timid about investing, — they have not forgotten the Grand Trunk or the Great Western, and other seemingly good and promising speculations, of the long ago and they are probably well acquainted with the fact that millions of dollars have already been spent in the swamps (or by the managers) in making even as feeble an attempt as that which has been accomplished. Tons of rails have been laid to rust and rot in heaps in out-of-tlie-way places, ties and timber have been placed in piles and then carted away, government money has been spent on every jtretext, and the results are only apparent in the improved appearance of the city dwellings owned by the promoters of the road. As [a. 1 42 CANADA ; " Credit Mobilier " or a " South Sea Bubble " tlie Canadian Pacific will discount them all. Should England refuse her aid, it is the intention of the promoters to appeal to France, and should France decline to be bled then it is the intention, as a dernier ressort, to pit themselves against the Yankees, to see if there are lambs enough to make it an object to attempt to skin tliem. Sir John, who in ap])earance is not unlike Lord Beaconsfield the ex-Pre- mier of England, is about smart enough for politicians here, and, naving returned from his trip to England successfully worked a bill* through Parliament creating and contracting for the building of the Canada Pacific liailroad. PI « .lOIlN A. MAODONALD. BIR A. T. OALT. Sir Jolm A. Macdonald, \]\*. Prime Minister of Canada, is a man about sixty years of age, with a half- Jewish, half-Scotch cast of countenance, his face wrinkled and tough-hx)king, but not unpleasant to gaze upon. In manner he is genial, and has constantly a smile for all who approach. In speech he is cool, collected, and a trifle hesitating, sarcastic, humorous, and sometimes witty in his remarks, quick to grasp a subject, forcible in \ t. 11 FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 43 his criticisms, a raan whose exterior gives no signs of the passions ruling within. Even should the road become an accomplished fact, the results would be anything but satisfactory to the investor, for, running for the most part tlirough an unpro- ductive rocky and swampy country, and for a period of from five to seven months each year being closed altogether to travel of any kind, returns from the small amount of Pacific territory to be drained would have to be something enormous to even pay expenses, much less interest on capital, and wear and tear of machinery and plant. Tlien, again, with such active coui])etition as will be brought to bear by the Northern and Southern Pacific roads of the United States the Canada road would stand no chance at all. The N. P., or National Policy, comes in for a good share of controversy at present. Its advocates point with pride to the results of the policy of protection in the United States and of the industries fostered and noiiii bed by its protect- ing influences. The opposition contend " that, whilst pro- tection may be of benefit to a country with a climate and soil that can raise such a diversity of products as not only to supply the actual wants, but also all the artificial require- ments of its population, protection will never amount to much in Canada, for the simple reason that there is but little to protect either in staple industries < ir minerals. It is true the Canadians have an almost boundless continent from the banks of the St. Lawrence clear up to the North Pole itself, but the only inhabitants of those higher regions, the bears, wolves and seals, do not appear to care a cent whether they are protected by the N. P. or not. The Princess Louise, wife of the Governor General, accompanied by her brother, Prince Leopold, and suite, left for England 44 CANADA ; i I on a visit and to recruit her health, therefore the fashion* ables and (camp) court followers were also on ii tour. It was expected at tirst that her husband, the Marquis of Lome, would have accompanied her, but, from politic reasons, he made a tour of the Lower Provinces instead. Possibly the Marquis feels that he can enjoy himself better a- '. vith more freedom in the Dominion than he can at the Court of St. James, for the Londoners assert that the Marquis is not over anxious to reside among them and his stay in their City on tlie occasion of his visits was certainly very limited. The Marquis of Lome i- 1 :>'.-'jkinned, blue-eyed, light-haired little genthman, g < atured, and just diffident enough to be lod by the poHiici'jus, and to accept the Governorship of t!ie L ')i men so t. ' . be out of the way cf his royal relations. The .-. iinci."r j. ' '' „ , Marchioness of Lome, is a lady of medium height, with a good-natured face, and, were she not a princess, would be just the sort of lovable home wife to make a man happy. Although not possessed of a style of beauty equal to her royal sister-in-law the Princess Alexandra, still she has that pleasant cast of countenance that marks so distinctively the chiUlren of Queen Victoria. Being a princess to the manor born, of course she wishes for court etiquette, the Marquis, also asj)ires, whilst in Canada, to follow the manners in vogue at the Court of London; whilst to the tailors and dress makers of the Capital the Canadians are indebted for some of the absurd and ridiculous fashions now consi- dered an, fait at the Court of Ottawa. During this aaministration low-necked dresses, short sleeves, or doctors' certificates, were first instituted as costume for the ladies at receptions, and in this latitude it is ' ■/3 5 a i^ X if FROM TUE LAKES TO THE GULF. 47 especially appropriate and becoming : fancy Mrs. J. Muggins Jones, weighing 905 or 509 lbs. the wife of a retired eating- house keejier, after months of earnest supplication, solicita- tion, and fees innumerable, to ushers, secretaries, and under- strapi)ers generally, has at last the wish of her heart and prayer of her life answered, for she and Mr. J. Muggins Jones are to be presented at Court. On the day appointed for the presentation, the happy pair drive to the Vice-Kegal residence in their own carriage, adorned with the newly- emblazoned family coat of arms — une saucisse, deux pommes de terre assiette, coiiteum fourckette a la crosswise^ probably. Notice the happy smile that illumines the countenance of Mrs. J. M. J. as the footman alights from his post on the box with the coachman, and opens the door of tlie carriage for her ladyship to descend ; then behold her, after being assisted to alight, take the arm of her lord, and with stately tread mount the steps to the Gubernalurial mansion ; then, handing her wrap to the first high watcher of the door bell, she takes her place in a line with otiiers for the presentation. Poor Jones all this time feels ill at ease, he gazes on his brogans, and wonders if No. IG feet are the usual size admitted to Court, he gets himself into a pi'ofuse perspiration in attempting to draw a No. 9 glove over a hand like the hand of Providence, covered with warts and freckles; finally the kid gives way, and he feels like reliev- ing his mind in good old home style, but is silently admon- ished by his wife, so he occupies the balance of his time in endeavoring to remember the instructions in the book as to how to accomplish the recherche court bow, but he can re- member everything but that and his prayers. The hearts of himself and spouse are in a flutter, p,nd each moment rise higher and higher in their throats. At last their names are 1. 48 CANADA ; oiillod, and they am ushered into tlie Vice-Re<^ul ])re.sence. Then l)('h()l(l the conple, at tlie zenith of tlieir aiiihition, Madiiine Jones, like the Queen of Sheha or an immense higer hier ])arrel, attired in a beautiful blue silk, cut bias in the l)ack, and low-necked to the waist, short-sh^eved in front : warm witli excitement, perspiration and grease oozing from every ytore, and a smile of gratified ambition upon her face. Her better half in his dress suit of black lu'oadcloth trying to look unconcerned, but missing it every time, with gi-eat beads of perspiration on his brow, his hands convul- sively either clutcliing his watch-chain or hunting for the pocket-handkerchief he dropped in the ante-room. There the couple stand, presented at court, monuments of gratified ambition, silent, stupid, but grateful and satisfied plum down to their boot heels. Jones is soon brought to his senses by tlie usher of the red bamboo tapping him on the head to remind him of his obeisance. All at once he remembers his court bow, and, in attempting to execute it, bends too low, and goes sprawling on all fours. His spouse, noticing her lord's discomfiture, endeavors to rectify it by placing her hand upon her heart and dropping a conrtesy, but for such a mountain of fiesh to expand something must give way, so, whilst attempt- ing to courtsey, buttons from the back of the beautiful blue silk fly in every direction, whilst a lace in her elegant corsets snapped like a whip and in attempting to back out from the Vice-Regal presence she overturned a ]>age who was approaching with a wrap, and sitting down upon him flattened him out like a pancake on Shrove Tuesday ; but the ordeal was passed, the presentation Mas over, and the Joneses returned to their family man- sion, feeling that they were no longer of the lower FKOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 4» orders, and already began to despise the " vulgah horde " who liad never been ])resented at court. What mattered the cold and consequent fever that laid that amiable and aspiring woman up fur the next two months, or the at- tack of rheumatism that confitied Jones liimself to the house, had they not attained the highest pinnacle of their ambition, and was not Jones when he went to his old sau- sage factory to cullect the rents looked upon with awe and reverence when his exploits became known to the common peo])le, in fact, the Joneses were daily becoming more con- scious of their greatness and superiority. It is stated that several new orders of knighthood will be introduced at court next season, and will be conferred on the worthy ones, i.e., those who pay, at extremely low prices for cash, and soon our ears will become familiar with such sounds as Juke Moses Abram Isaacs Threebal, Lord Squeezem Banker Smith, Sir Charcuterie Francis, Et. Hon, Cent per Cent Grabal, etc. It is also rumored that on the return of Kuyalty the court ladies themselves are to become exclu- sive and distinctive, and no doubt we shall soon hear of orders amongst the fair sex that will outshine in dignity any honors the sterner relatives can acquire or assume. In order to uphold the anticipated magnificence of the Court and imbue the commonalty with a due appreciation of its dignity, it will so(3n be necessary for the Government of the Dominion to follow the example of the Province of Quebec and go to France to borrow a few more millions at 5 or 8 per cent., and then levy a tax for interest. The trade in lumber at Ottawa is something enormous, and the demand is yearly increasing, employing in the timber districts North, a vast number of men during the winter season. 60 CANADA ; Leavin}:; Ottawa oiico more, we reacli rrosoott in time to take the steamei- " Algerian " for Montreal, and soon are running through the («alo|) Rapid, thence through Long Sault, a continuouH ra[>id of nine miles in length. The sensa- tion exj)erienced in descending the rapids is a very pleasing one : steam is shut down, and the vessel glides silently along at the rate of 14 or If) miles an hour by the force of the current alone. Great accuracy has to be observed in steering the craft, and in ord(!r to accomidish this object the steering gear is of the best, and the steering wheels are double, and in descending the rai)ids a tiller is placed astern, so that it can be manned as well as the double wheels, and when the little steamer .strains, labors and i)itches headlong into the boiling caiddron at Lachine the feeling is a peculiar one, being akin to the idea that the boat is settling down ; but under the guidance of old Bdpfiste, the Indian pilot, we are soon through, and come in sight of the bronzed dome of the Bonsecours market and the great Victoria tubular bridge, that connects the island of Montreal with the main- land. The bridge is about two miles in length, spanning the St. Lawrence river, the construction of which, in connection with the Grand Trunk ]I.R., cost the early investors some millions of dollars, the bridge alone costing fully S6, 250,000, the loss of wliich capital it will take them still some time to forget. Then under the bridge, and in a few moments we are moored alongside the wharf and landed. CAUGIINAWAGA BELL. II! ■:!. Almost opposite Lachine, on the south side of the river, is the village of Caughnawaga, where the mail boat takes on board the Indian pilot Baptiste, to assist in guiding the eteamer thi'ough the wildest and most dangerous of all the FROM THE lAKES TO THE GULP. 61 mpids, tlui " Liichine," that commoncos just below the town. The villaj^e is comiioscd of a few streets of log huts, hut in eontra-distiiiction to tlie poverty of the surroundinj^s stands a massive stone church, in the belfry of which hang two bells, one a large and modern one, whilst the other is a small one of the last century, and is of itself the subject of an historical legend, in the manner of its acquirement. It seems that, in the year 1090, one Father Nicols, one of those Missionaries who were the first to set the example of Christianizing the heathen, who had made numerous converts from amongst the Indians of the Caughnawaga tribe, had persuaded his hearers to give him furs enough to ere{;t his church, and when they were all converted, he convinced them that religion was not worth having unless they hud a bell to their church, so they becaiae enthusias- tic in the cause of the bell, and, so to speak, passed round the hat, and contributed a goodly portion of the furs that they had secured from their season's hunt to purchase the l>ell for their edifice. Of course the 1. dians did not know what a bell was, but believed it was a something that spoke in consecrated and angelic tones, and was a necessary adjunct to their new religion. They soon accumulated a considerable stock of furs, which were sent by Father Nicols to an ecclesiastical friend in Havre, France, who ex- changed them for the article required, and no doubt divided the profits, and shipped the bell to Montreal. For some time the priest and his tribe of converts awaited its arrival, and it was thought at length that the vessel had foundered, but after a while the news reached them that it had been cap- tured by an P>iglish man-of-war, taken to the port of Salem, Mass., and, further, that the bell was hung in a church at Deerfield, and rang in the interests of heretics instead of 52 CANADA ; good Catholics. This intelligence, through the wise coun- selling of the priest, not only made the Indians mad, hut aroused their savage resentment. The priest advisjd them that the bell, which had not yet received the sacrament of baptism, was a captive in the custody of heretics, and caused them to register a vow that the first opportunity that occurred should be taken tor its recovery. Some years passed before a chance offered, but the time was not lost, for Father Nicois' converts were enthusiasts, and diligently employed in adding new converts to tlie cause of Chris- tianity, and in religiously plying the tomahawk and scalp- ing knife upon such of their unregunerate neighbors as refused to acknowledge the new faith. But in the year 1704 the Marquis de Vaudreuil, then Governor of Canada, wish- ing to kill as many Englishmen as possible by stealth and strategy, as well as open warfare, went to the meek and lowly follower and advocate of Christianity, as the diplomatic head of the tribe, and prayed for the aid of the Caughnawagas to assist him to destroy his foes ; but the holy father would oidy give his consent to lead a mur- dering and pillaging expedition upon the tacit understand- ing that the objective point should be the town of Beer- field. This condition, of course, was acceded to, and so the man of God asseniltled his savage converts, and with uplifted hands and stirring words informed them that the time for rescuing the bell had arrived, and a])j)ealed to them in the name of the Deity to rally, and march upon the crusade for its recovery. Like a second CJideon, he i)laced himself at their liead, and liis words and actions awoke enthusiasm in their savag(^ hearts. Weapons were put in order, war paint donned, and in the middle of winter the savages, with their Christian pastor as a leader, departed to FROM THE LA.KES TO THE GULF. 53 join the regulars of the Marquis at Fort Chambly. The French troops, unaccustomed to travelling through snow- drifts and to endure the hardships of winter warfare, were with difficulty restrained from mutiny, but the Indians, familiar with snowshoe travel, progressed almost as easily as if the season had been summer. At the head of his savage Christian legion marched Father Nicols on his errand of murder and pillage, whilst by his side a stalwart convert bore the banner of the cross as an offset. At night the Indians were cheered by the voice of their leader in prayer and exhortation. Arriving at the head of Lake Champlain, the expedition marched upon the ice, unl/d the spot now occupied by the City of Burlington was reached, when it took its course by compass through the wilderness of Vermont for Deerfield. Considerable hardships were endured by the expedition, but Father Nicols, sustained by remarkable zeal, continued on, until the expedition, on the 29th of February, saw in the distance its destination, and awaited the approach of night some four miles from town. At daylight De Rouville ordered his forces to advance. A strong wind was blowing, encrusted with ice, which broke beneath the weight of his men ; he therefore adopted the ruse of ordering the column to proceed a short distance upon the run, then to halt suddenly, thus imitating the sound of gusts of wind. The inhabitants of the town were wholly unsuspicious of any movement against them, aud, like the people of Liash of old, were wrapt in profound slumber. Even the solitary sentinel was asleep, and the hard snow piled nearly to the top of the stockades gave the assaulting an easy means of ingress. Quickly and sileutly they scaled the walls, and the sleeping sentinel was i\\^ first to receive his death-blow from a tomahawk. The il*::; 1 '.: 54 CANADA ; ^ !■ surprise was complete, and no resistance was offered. Then a terrible scene of massacre occurred ; some few escaped, numbers were slain, and about one hundred and twenty jnade ])ri3oners. The troops rioted amid the plumlor, l)ut the Indians were after their bell. At the request of Kiither Xicols, the commandant despatched a soldier to rin^ it. As the first tones of the bell sounded on the cold morniiit^ air and fell upon their ears, they reverently knelt, whilst the priest solemnly returned thanks to God for their success, and invoked a blessing on the murders they had committed. What a sight ! the ground strewn with the mangled and mutilated corpses of the innocent slain ; the trembling captives mourning the loss of relatives, friends and homes, and fearing death and even worse at the hands of their bar- barous captors ; the savages seeking to do homage to an un- known (Jod whose precej)ts commanded love and kimhiess, but whom, through the doctrine and instruction of a ]ire- ceptor they sought to serve by slaughter and cruelty. The bell was removed from the ])elfry and hung upon cross jioles in order to be tninsported, the l)uildings of the place iired, and the party retreated ; the ca})tives, men, women and children, were forced to keep up with the column, an up, they were tomahawked before the view of the others, and their gory scalps added to tliose on the Ixilts of their savage captors. By the time they arrived at lUirlington Bay the Indians were thoroughly tired out with carrying the bell, wliose weight their snowshoes would not sustain, so they found a likely sj)ot and buried it. In the spring, u])on their return, they found the bell had been undisturbed, and with joy the party bore it homeward, whilst those at Caughnawaga anxiously awaited its arrival, n 1. ( s i( A ad po FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 57 for those who had been on the expedition for its capture had described it in glowing t«rms. It was said that its tones were sweeter than those of the birds, clearer than the rippling melody of the river, and that it could be heard beyond the murmuring of the rapids. At length, whilst all were discussing the anticipated arrival, a novel sound was heard in the woods, and interest being awakened, a voice shouted " the bell ! it is the bell ! " when rushing to the edge of the clearing they met the returning expedition, at the head of which were yoked two snow-white oxen bear- ing the bell hung between them. Both bell and oxen were adorned with wreaths of leaves and wild flowers. The bell, after being closely examined and commented upon by the curious, was raised to its place in the belfry, and awoke with its tones the echoes of the St. Lawrence. The Indians for some time continued their rejoicings, but the sound of the bell fell upon the ears of the captives as the death knells of murdered relatives, and as a reminder of destroyed and desolated homes, and which they despaired of ever again beholding. However, two years later, the Governor of Massachusetts, together with the Governor of Canada, succeeded in obtaining the release of the survivors, some fifty-seven in number. Such is the history of the bell of Caughnawaga, and it is believed to be strictly true in all its particulars. MONTREAL. Montreal claims to be the lara; 'st city in British North America, with a population of some 130,000, and is an admixture of the greed and selfishness of the English portion with the shrewdness of the French habitants. Its wharves, extending from the foot of the canal some 58 CANADA ; h ;',' two miles down the river, are substantially huilt of wood projecting from a broad terrace faced with grey lime- stone. The controllers of the ship])ing interests have cer- tainly persevered in order to obtain tlie wharfage facilities they now have. A few years ago the Allan Line had almost entire control of the shipping interests of this port, and their steamships being largely subsidized by both the Home and the Dominion (lovernnients they fast assumed control of tlie trade, and be(3ame a monopoly that smaller companies were afraid to com{)ete witli. (_)wing to tlie fostering care bestowed upon the line by the Govern- ments and good management on the part of the Allan brothers, their line at the present time conijn-ises one of the finest fleets of steamsliips in the world, representing an ocean tonnage alone of 77,400 tons, and the management of their immense business is certainly a study wurtliy of emulation. Everything is done almo.st by routine, ami with ])erfect regularity, cheaply, eiliciently and economically. The company divides each branch into a department, and each depai\.::^ent held alone responsible for its actions to the head office. They hire their men bv the season, work or no work the men know their pay goes on, therefore no strikes occur at critical moments, and upo the arrival of one of the steamers from sea she is unloaded and reloaded with ex])ediency and dispatch. In addition to the ocean steamers, the " Allans " have (ju'te a >< i ice of propellers on the lakes, thereby being enabled to tran.-port grain and other produce direct from the point of shipment to tlieii ocean steamers, at a cost that is merely n- i inal compared with the cost of transportation by an outside boat. Some idea of their immense export business may be formed from the statemeut that the Allan steamers have transported to ( I nilt of y lime- ve cer- icilities lie bad of this ized by ts they onopoly ( )wiiiii Govern- m Allan tie of the [itiiif^ an lii^vnient uvtby of tui # if V- fc :• ■ i i FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 63 (ii'eiit Britain durin<^ the season 1880 some 11,402 houd of wittle, 11,480 sheep and 1,354,700 bushels or 1(J0,33H (jmir- ters of i^rain. Bein<^ thus so firmly established, with every facility at command, and with the underwriters discriuiinat- ing in favor of the Allans, and against all outside lines, it was thought for a time to be the height of folly to attempt to obtain even a portion of the trade for a season, much less attempt to establish a permanent line, as a candi- date for public favor and patronage, but, through the indomitable energy, j)erseverance, and close managinient of Mr. Thos. Cramp (David Torrance & Co.), the Doniiniou Line Steamships have become a regular and permanent line of traders to this port, and aru ra})idly growing in favor with both shippers and the public generally, and are certuiidy well patronized. The steamers of this line divide their ser- vice, a portion of the fleet being regularly engaged in trading to New Orleans. During the present season the Dominion Line have carried over 11,305 head of cattle, 21,262 sheep, and 2,400,000 bushels grain. There is still another can- didate for i)ermanent trade and public favor in the " Beaver Line," who also obtiiin a fair proportion of patronage ; their wxportations may be summed up in general as 6,457 head of cattle, 5,588 sheep, 1,050,000 bushels grain. The Donald- son Line, Cljde Service, the London steamships, together with the " outside ships " are roughly estimated to have carried 20,39G head of cattle, 33,263 sheep, gi'iiin, making the total exportation from the Dominion for the season of 1880, 45,560 head of cattle, 81,543 sheep grain. Total exports from Montreal, $32,284,240. It is certainly a fact that, unless cattle are ol)iained for shipment other than the slow process of raising them in this climate, there will soon be a scarcity that will make i^'.s\f G4 CANADA ; felt, for in tliese latitudes they have neitlier the immense numhcr of cuttle to draw from or the jjasturuf^'e on which they could winter or feed. It looks stran^^e U) see that shipments of cattle from Canada have assumed the shape of an industry from these nmrkets where there are com- paratividy so few to select from, when the first drive from the State of Texas last season (and there are tiu'ee drives each year) was 179,000 head ; but the law-makers of Kng_ land, in order to discriminate in favor of their own c(»lony, and to protect the industries of Canada, decreed that American cattle arriving in Great Britain must be slau-^htered at the port of entry whilst Canadian beeves are allowed to live until they are needed in the market, so the wily " iviinucks" never ship any but Canadian cattle in this wise. Wlien a season's drive of cattle start from Texas, New Mexico, or the West, early in the spring, they graze quietly up through the Indian nation, Missouri, Illinois and Michigan to the borders of Manitoba and the North West teri'itory, and are there sold in large quantities t(j the farmers of that region ; during the summer and fall the shi])per and speculator buy direct from the Canadian farmer and liritish Law is satisfied, and the Englishman eats his Canadian roast beef fnuu Texas or Montana, and rejoices in the fact that Canada is prosj)ering and has meat to spare for the mother country. A local paper thus chronicles the arrival of cattle : "Some days ago a drove of 250 Texas steers passed through Morris, Manitoba, on their way to Winnipeg. They were so uncivilized that tliey preferred to swim the rivei rather than cross over the long bridge at JVlorris. NEWSPAPERS AND PUBLIC OPINION. If the statement be true that public opinion and habits are controlled and reflected in the papers of the day, aad FROM THE LAKKH TO THE QULF. or, that ]i(!0|tl(> follow the lend of tluMr tnacliers, tlion cortuiiily tluMv is ample room for zealoiiH missionary work in the way of reform. If the statement he true that puhlic opinion and hahit.s are controlled and retle(.-ted in the papers of the day, that the jieople follow the lead of their teachers, then cer- tainly there is ample room for zealous missionary work in the way of reform. There are ahont evj\\t papers in Frencjh and English, comprisinj,' daily and weekly, with one weekly illustrated paper published in the city ; the Ilenilil and Gazette' are the two I'iiif^dish morninj,' ])a])ers. The Herald is jn-ohably the most readable both for news and as a reflector of public opinion. The Gazette was owned by an M.P., but, being a public man, he possibly thought it would be looked upon by the people generally as if he were pa- tronizing himself, whenever parliamentary or state busine.ss was secured, so the paper is published under the auspices of a company of which his brother is Managing Director, although it is stated that the member is still the Editor, and assumes naturally the inside track on Parliamentary business. When Queen Victoria, in her memoirs, made the remark that " it was astonishing with how little knowledge the world was governed," she certainly meant it to apply to the rulers and editors on this side of her domain also. Here a mode of attack is to obtain a point on a stranger, who, it is believed, will not resent the calumny, and then endeavor to create a sensation by an attack throngh the columns of his journal, and should justice be asked ])y the injured party, he is refused, except he pay at adver- tising rates to insert a card in his own vindication. One would imagine that such a procedure were beneath the 1^? 1^ m CANADA ; aspirations of a first-class journal. It was but a sliort time ago that an enterprising editor was pilloried before the City Council, and ollicially tlenounced to the public by one of the Board of Aldermen (vide daily papers, September, 1880). It is somewhat amusing to note the general dis- jtaragement, jealousy and contemj)t for each other that is secretly manifested between the rival papers, whilst the ])r<)}trietor des]>isesto a great extent his emjdoyees, some of the worthy owners ])aying tlieir reporters the magnificent sum of six dollars per week ; they do not hesitate to appro- priate the efforts t)f a man's brain, whilst they are living comf(jrtably ott' his lapidly wasting powers. The evening papers are generally a rehash of the publications of the morning, and are given to their readers for one cent i)er copy. For a cheap paper they are certainly good s}>ecimens of their class, and, although lacking in vigor and enterprise, will compare favorably with a one cent j)aper in the States, or a half-]>enny daily in Great liritain. Tlieir telegrams usually come per " Grape vine," whist their editorials and brain work are am})ly sup])lied by the paste pot and scissors. The French ])apers are active in their criticisms, and their columns tilled with European news, which aids to refute the oft-re}H'ated boast that each Fuglish-spcaking inha- bitant has to carry ten French Canadians, if that was so, thent!< '. help the jtoor Frenchmen, for if any Scotchman was ever known to carry or assist his fellowman, then the fact shouhl be given ])ublicity. It has often been the subject of remark, that in Texas the cow l)oys are good hands at skinning cattle ; here they go one better on scri[)tural advice> and have served an a])i)rentif'eship, not only as fishers, but are also skinners of their fellowmen. As a class they are suspicious and distrustful of each other, and business trans- i I FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF, 67 actions that in otlier communities would ])e looked upon as contemptible and mean are here deemed perfectly honor- able and correct. rossil)ly the best point to judg(i from is the hotel, for the stranj^er who is popularly supposed to be legitimate prey will find himself surrounded by a set of fawning sycophants, assiduously and anxiously endeavor- ing to extract the last cent by all manner of devices and pretexts ; but let the stranger express his intention of resid- ing in their city, and of pursuing his o\vn occu])atiun — then commences a system of social ostracism, petty perse- cution and a regular game of freeze out. The new comer will find himself slandered by their journals, attacked by those whom he once thought friends, and altogether made to feel that he was only wanted whilst he could be plucked. Owning, as the Canadians do, an excellent water highway for the trans]tortation of all classes of merchandise and produce from the far West clean tlirough to the ocean, it I: astonishing that such a dog in the mangt.'r s})irit prevails, and it is certainly sur])risiiig that ere this a General Dalrym})le, or a General James, has not gazed upon the country and taken notes for future reference. It is rather noticeable that, with all the conteni])t expressed whensjieak- ing of the Ignited States, whenever a " call " is received, or a situation otfered, the opportunity is at once embraced, whether l>y a minister or a humble clerk ; all seem ei|ually eager and anxious to gi't away, and their expressions of love for Canada do not seem to deter them or bind them here in the least. Although the crv of Canada for the Canadians is often echoed, still if thi' United States were to raise a similar watchword, several of the iidiabitants of this por- tion would Hud thcnnselves badly off. The city of Montreal is laid out in the form of a i)aral- ^mmmmm 'it 68 CANADA ; leloyiiini, and the d\v(41iiieculiarily and stability is accounted for from the fact tliat immense ([uar- ries of rock are opened in close proximity to the city itself; that it is certainly cheai)er to erect a buildin;^ of stone in ]>reference to one of brick, without the consideration that the stone house is cooler in the summertime and warmer durin;icle, (Jeneral llosjutal duirch, Notre Dauie de I'itie, Hotel-Dieu churcli, anil St. Mary'.s. The Church ol" Kuers in the city, and have a tine cathedral in which to worship, but, whilst criticising the bliml and trustfully ignorant faith of the Catholic portion of the community, we cannot overlook the Protestants^ Taken as a class, and including all dcuounnations, they have by far the majority !m point nf ninubers of Churches, within whose sacred preciniv.-j the (Ireat Creat V.\ FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. n Edifices from which the Kefoniied Faith is proimilj^'ated. On Sunday no si^dit is so edifying and dch;,ditl'iil as to iit and watch the jn'ocessiun of tlie Saintly, meandering in groups to their favorite placewhere the Go.spel is interjireted according to the ideas most suitaltle and acceptable to themselves, and the Almighty is cajoled and conciliated from a depraved and artificial standpoint. First conies paterfamilias, arrayed in his Sunday-go-to- meeting suit of black, with solenni mien, leading by the hand his youngest scion, then follows his wife and daughters, enveloped in their finery, and dis[)laying jewellery and gewgaws like South Sea Islanders, followed by the other members of the family, — each of the crowd, from the old man himself, carrying in their hands a brass- bound, CO) tper- fastened, gilt-edged, morocco-backed prayer- book or liible, with the family name and number of the pew emblazoned in prominent gilt letters on the back, for fear, if the books were left in the sanctuary, that some poor thief might actually be tempted to stt^al " the Wurd of Go/ of Christian charity under the sun. If Montreal itridcs herself upon the ajjpelhition of the "City of Churches," she certainly also is deserving' of the distinction of bein^ the home and abode of the beg^'ars, for where there is so much profession of religion and virtue, there is a conseciuent abundant* of pauperistn, immorality, vice and crime ; for a land wliere the purest morals and strictest religion are professed is generally that which produces vice, and i)articularly the smaller vices, in greatest abundance. The portion of the States and the Dominion with most religious teachers, ruled by minis- terial Justices and clerical law makers, are those that furnish the greater number of the nyrnpks du pacd to the L '"'es on the continent, and even furnish a large su])i)ly to the capital of Cuba. From the same prolific soil s])ring most of the sharpers, quacks and cheat- ing traders who disgrace their country's nanu\ It is but the inexorable result of a pseudo-religion, outward obser- vance, worship, Sabbath-keeping, and the various forms are engrafted in t!ie mind ; anil thus, by complicating the true duties that man owes to his fellow-num, (obscure or take preceilence of them, the latttu' grow to be esteenu-d as oni tf a secondary importance, and are, consecjuently, neglected ; and in these northej-n latitudes when a man V>ecomes poor he ra])idly descends h)wer and lower until his manhood and self-respect are entirely obliterated and the former man becomes on a ])lane with the brute creation. On the streets, at the doorways of the hotels, on the corner of the .squares, on the .steps of the various churches, and even in the shadow of the great Cathedral, the passer-bye 74 CANADA ; is iiiiiinitiiiuHl ill wliiiiiii*,' tftiics and with nutstnitclu'd hand to (/i>'i\ for charity's sake. The iniiidun' of lucii, woiiHiii and children who have hist every particle of virtue and self- respect, in ))roj)ortion to the size of the city, by far exceed the canaille of Paris or the Lazaroni of Naph^s itscll. Many of these beings so lost to a sense of manhood and independ- ence are stron*,' and healthy, able, if jiroperly employed, to be producers, and assist iu benefitin«< the community by becoming good citizens and bi;aring a propc^rtion of the expense of government. These beings, when spoken to regarding their state, often reply: "We, whilst at work, receive such a j)ittauce from the hands of employers of labor that it is imp()ssil)le to exist on the am(»unt earned, therefore we would ratlnir follow the practice of begging with all its abasement, and aj»peal to the cliarity of strangers for means of existence, than work for wages u]K)n which we could do nothingbut ([uietly starve," and there certainly is S(»me reason attached to this assertion, for many a poor clerk who wears outwardly a semi-iespecitable ai)pearance, and who labors in a large establishment, lives upon but two, and at times one meal a day, ami even by such economy as this cannot make both ends meet at the termination of the month. Whilst in conversation with a merchant, this topic was alludeil to, and the proposition suggested that some of the able-bodied laborers and starving clerks should be encouraged to cultivate a spirit of manhood and assisted to become independent by having some of the territory west donated to them, and the means necessary provided and loaned them to erect homes and dwellings for themselves, thus enabling them to become active producers instead of idle and comjiaratively vicious consumers, — when this merchant rei)lied : " Oh, that is entirely against Canadian principle FROM TIIK LAKKS TO TlIK (iULF. ( a NVO, luy the »I)ic due be Ito west lud ves, idle niul ])()li(\v — wo iicvor Icum ; soiuctinu's we may Imrrow, }»iit Wf iK'Ncr loan to the iHiorcr classt's — icf (/ice — in (ddcr to note tlu' jirevaltMu-o (»f that cliaritalilc spirit of j,'i\ iiiij. I watilicd tilt' actions of a niiiiihcr of ucll-to-do men who fondly dfiiide thcnischcs with that assertion, ami found that on one Saturday, o\it of stiveutecn a|ij)lii'ations. au old woman received uiie ct'iif, and still these jxtrsons thou^^ht they had done their wholt duty, and on the Sunday rever- ently " thanked the Loi'd for His ^'(»odness,"and the jiroHts they had accumulated in their business, as they woidd that others should do unto them ; they were iioteven as zealous as old I'ncle Daniel Drew who ^'avehis note for a lar^e amount to found and endow a reli,Ljious univtMsity and coUeuc, and then considerately failed before the note came due, thereby proving that he had no hard feedings against religion. " Lif*' IK '< ^V.s^ (tinf (ill fliiiHjs shiHC if^ I fliotijlit 60 oHce, hilt null' I kiioic it." lieu Jotison, "I know my liidf's clior.k lull of hIii, lint I've tixeil Old i'cic, iiml lic'll lei me in, So riH% nj) cliililif", rise up in acrowil, Ami slioiit iiikI sinj; (o dc aii^'els lonij, An' nliout an' sin;r tor dc Ian' ot'di' Blt-Ht, 'Case hell am liot as a liorn«'t's newt." If ever such inKnitesimal souls reach the haven of lest and dwelling phice of pciice, it will only be by enacting the same strategy that -ludge Waxem accoiuplished in a])pr()aching the Pearly dates, and even after arrival they may meet with the same reception. As it may possibly l>e information for those who yet inhabit this mundane sjthere, 1 will ndate the ex])erience : .Judge Moses Aaron Waxem was a learned man of great renown, anil hailed from Mexas. ' ' li< 70 CANADA ; In courst! of time liis t-artlily career \v;ih done, mihI liis bonci.s were j^'iUherifd to his fiitliers, or planted on llic perarii', hnl his spirit went wandering tliroii;,'li the ethereal reahns of space. Now the .Fudge was an honest man; lie never took anytliing wliilst living that he eould not carry away, m-ilher did he appidjtriate anything his arms cniild iKtt reach, lie endowed a church, and freed his niggers when h(t could hold them no longer, and, like Harriet Heecher Stowe, got $'M){) ea(;h fnun the National Govern- ment, and was well awiuainted with the fact, before he de])arted, that there was a splendid climate for settling in, also one that was reputed to be red hot and still a-heating, — aoy esclu'wing the hitter, he attem[ited to make his way to the golden gatt^s, but getting lost amidst the labyrinths of turnings, and the day being very warm, the .Judge sat down under the sliade of some beautiful trees to rest. Whilst rel'resliing himself in this manner the air became suddenly darkeni'd, anda shade ajijieai'ed who, from the des- crij)lion heard of whilst in tJie tlesh, the .Judge immediately recogui/ed as his Satanic Majcisty himself. "Halloo! " inter- rogated His Majesty ; " what is y(jur name ? Where did you come from, and where are you going?" "^Wdl," answered the -ludge, " my name was Moses Aaron Waxem ; I've just come from Mexas,and I want to get up to them ]>early gates." "Oh; (lb 1 ! " replied His Majesty, "your name's enough. 1 have old Mose and his brother hjiig ago, and you're mv meat, so get reatly, and come along." " Well," returned the .Judge, " its j»retty warm travtdling just ncnv, so sit downand make your miserable life happy until the cool of the even- ing, and then 1 will go along; meanwhile," he added, drawing forth a greasy pack of cards, " we will while away the time with a game of draw j)oker." Well, they played a hmg while, FROM TlIF, LAKKS TO Till", CTLF. t I lime .'liile, ami ITis Miijcsty lu'Cimw iiitt'ifstcd. Tirst, he het the ^'idden bosses oil liis li(»nis, tln'ii tlic ^'oMfii riiij^'iirouinlliis tuil, tlicii tlu! silver sillies fntiu nlV liis IkhiI's, iiiul tiiiiilly sdiiie (»!' tin; silver eliains heldii^iii^'tdsoiiieot' his fUvorile iiiips. At last liis Majesty was dead Inoke, the »»ld Jiidj^'e \viniiiii<; evt^ry time. "Now," remarked he, " I will play you one more time^ and if you l)eat me, theu 1 will show you the road and put you on the rij^'ht traek to make tht; gates." They played another d'J, and sueh a reputation has it nhtaiiifil that thi>u>auds of strangers visit its wards and chapel each yea''. The [iloddino nian of the w uld, the husiness mai 1 and ot.heis, whosf thouohts are tied here he- iuw , cxperi'-nce such a ri'lief on enterino its portal.> that it isiinp«»ssii»le toantieipate or di'scrihc. Althou<;h hut throui^h two ]»air of foldinji d(»ors, the feelin},' c(jmt"s ovrr you that you are entirely shut out from the world, and hegiu to feel I,! I FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 81 at rest and poace. The transition is sudden, but it is complete. No longer are yon ga/ed at with sharp, designing or calcu- lating countenances ; no longer do you renienil»er the niugh crowiling and jostling, the c\itting remarks and treacher- ous actions, whilst drifting outside. Here all seems perfect quiet, and probably you feel for the first time a spirit of charity to all men rise within you. The faces you see and converse with are those of symj)athising woman, and recall the (!ountenance of a loving mother or a tender sister. The Nun"ery, nov/ under the care of Sister Keed, jmjbably ac(!omplishes more good in a (piiet unheralded way than any similar institution in the Dominion. A lap for those wlio leave tlie track. How tew ot'tlie wuiidering houIs turn back, For eyes may weep and liearts be Hore ; B'Jt the silver lost is found no more. i»e- |;it it In ugh that i feel The Y. M. C. A. have recently erected at one corner of Victoria Square a fine building in Gothic style, with large hall, reading room ami library for theijseof strangers, and have doubtless been of great l)enefit to young men, stran- gers and others, in ordi r to rc^concile them to their h and the habits of the ])eopl(' they found themselves amongst. The institution was c(;rtaiuly needed, and the committee deserve great cnulit for the manner in which they have {iccomjtlishcd the undertaking, as also does the " Witness," an evening paper that has proved a useful, willingand j)ow- erful auxiliary. Tlu^ room.s are under the charge of Mr. 1). Ibidge, the elHcient Secretary of the institution, a courteous, aifalile gentleman, who does all in his power to enal)le a moral young man to pass away a few spare hours pleas- antly and agreeably. a2 CANADA ; ECCENTKIC CHAHACTERS. It is a matter of aunnise to tlu; visitor generally how the iiuiiu' of " Mcdrah" or McXab seemed to V»o so pro- minent and so continually (|uoted. From Halifax, Quebec;, Montreal, Toronto and Hamilton, and ])ossil)ly still further West, streets, l)uildin^'s, whiirves and avenues have been named t(» do him honor, and, like the Squee/eins, tlui name is to bo met with in all kinds of out-of-the-way placets, and from a superficial ;j;lanc(! it looks as if he iiad certainly "grabbed" all within reach ; but it seems he was a irdi canny Scotch chieftain, and brought the characteristics of his early education ov(>r with him ; there was no shoddy about Ml Xab, for his father owned slaves (or rather a elan of his own), ami he brought quite ii nundier of them with him. On arrival, he rei'ei\tMl a giant of a Townshiji on the Itiiuk of Ijitlxc lie ( haf<, and iit once jiroceeded to (irect the castle of McNab, in older that in a new country he could follow feudal customs ;ind the ancient traditions of his progenitors, anil raid, pilhige and sidKlue the comrni- nities around about, whilst, m case he was attack(!d, he would iiiive a place to tlefeiid and sortie from. He for some years sold otf the estate an immense ([uantity of pine timber, anipe (1 hiiii- tl way of lal»orers ami fine lTi<,'hlan(l yirls, meeting thom upon their arrival at Quelu'c, l)Ut his jxiwer over the e(»iiiniunity at large in those old and snjterstitioiis days is lastingly marked l)y tlicir cllorts to do him honor, for at that time style position and bluff "took the eake." in le TllK DOMINION KXIIIIUTION. As the master, so the miin, Nmnc tne tlu' jud^cH, I'll icll you who gets the prize. Loritl l\if)fir. There is one noticeable peculiarity about the people (if Canada, and that is, if the citizens of one seeti(tn of the country promulgate an idea, it is instantly seized by the people of the neighboring sections. As the individuals are suspicious and jealous of each other, so each |»rnvince is animatetl by the same desjiicahle spirit. The City of Ham- ilton, Ontario, atniounced her intention early in the scast (i of holding an Exhibition in the fall, and invited the co- operation of the neighboring rrovinces, to assist in making 84 CANADA tlu! sllOW 11 HUfOCSS. No SOUIHT ililli fllis JlIinOIMlCCllU'lll iiiiiiu'.d pulilicitv, tlmii the citv of Tumnto went oiio ln'ttor. Hiul iKivi'i'tist'd an KxpoHition (luriii<^ tlu.' nioiilh uf St'|»t('iii- lu'.r, inviliiif^ the jii'opld lioth of Caimdii and tlu; States to conic, see, and jiaitieijiale. Shortly afterwards Montreal certilicd to the fact that she was j^oing to hold a (Iranil Kxposition, "Open to tiic World," mid, finally, Halifax awoke and opened her show to the Universe and tluMMitiic ororory, and it is the working' of Montreal that \\v. shall deal with mostly. In tlu; outs(!t a Conunilti'e of Ways and Means had to bi' provided, f(jr the promoters wiire not men wh I were inclined to risk a (!ent toward niakin<,' a snccess ont of the experiment — Ihii p rent itje of their names was oon- sideretl amply sullicient a portion to attract the pnhlic. So 'he newspapermen were dnly convened, and the various •' fat tiikes " were distributed amon<,'st them : in the way of advertisements, etc., to insure their co-operatie the M;i.;ti U'nldiug. The I)lll ■lU'ctt .ul.l II Us iljlil- l( iSt - ami 'nin- iSillltl way. luid liich, FROM THK LAKES TO THE GULF, 87 pt!()i)lo themselves takiiii,' lui active interest in the proposed show for a time, everythiii<^ seemed to portend success and satisfaction. S. ('. Stevenson, the Secretary of the Council of Arts and Manufactures, was appointed Secretary, and certaiidy worked well for the advancement of the interests of th(! Kxhihition ; hut his hands weie soon tied, and he was siirroimded hy a ravenous host of incompetents, whose relatives or friends had contributed som«'thin<^ towards the furtherance of the object, and who brought such pn^ssure to bear upon the Sei^retary that he was entirely unable to employ competent men, for most of those who had (-ontri- buted to help along the exptMises had done so with the express or implit^d understanding that they wcire either to have a place ftir themselves or their friends. The Exhibition was advertised to lie open to the public on the 14th of Septemlx-r, but on that day, owing to incomjx'tency of the ollicials in charge, nothing was in readiness even in the lirst building. Exhibitors (some of them at least) had their spaces given -.iway to oth.or parties, and at the last moment, when all was hurry, bustle and confusion, chaos reigned s>ij)reme, and the credulous })ublic who i»aid their (juarters were just so much out. Three days afterwards the great Manitolja Kxiii- bit was displayed, and comjnised some sage grass, a few sheafs of wheat, gi;*en tomatoes, sickly cabbages and half- grown beets, with the explanatory note that the vegetal>les were plucked Iwfor*.- the} were ripe. A few Indian wap- pings, old wigwams, snow-shoes, canoes, and a worn-out government ammunition waggon, were the atti actions. The cattle and stock did not leach the grounds until the 20th in.st.. and the root ami grain building was nut open until that time. The formal opening did not take plice until 88 CANADA ; the 'Jl.st, whontlie flovcrnor (Joiu'iiil on'u;iatuntenance every attempt at imposition, and whose aim will be not only to make tlu^ show a success, but to thor- oughly satisfy and pl«Mise the people wlio are attracked there, and who contribute to its supjiort. VKNNOK, TIIK TUOl'lIKT. " Vennor's kerrect ajj;in, aiul I'll tell you how'twas," renuirked a farmer journeying from Southampton: "Well, you see, 1 was looking in the almanax, and he said there was to be snow ; well, pretty soon, she just came along, full •m^r ilS, full FROM THK LAKKS TO TIIK GULF. 89 pelt. Yoii see tlicm drifts ? Well there is over sixteen feet in ein, unil on u level all you can see is the tops of the stakes and the rydcr across, that means over seven feet snow. After that says I to the wife, ' Veiuior says that wu'rc <,'oiti^' to have a eold spell, and I'll ht^ we ^'it it,' says I, 'and I'm goin^' to watch out,' so I took the Ivprmoiiuiter, and s(!t her up on the ])orch. After a while tht; cold hcLfan to comu ah)!!",', and that durned ihinf; marked lower and lower till it struck the last iKttch, and then hust the hottom ami fell throu^'h (into the porch. Well, you know ('hij»p«!waSam what works forme, — he come along in the nidrning, and thought he found a silver or l'< 'Id button or something, and went to pick it up otfn the j. ach, and that litth; inside of the Kermometer burnt his two forefingers iind his thumb oil clean t tb.e weather by a kind of a prot^iieding between tbimsilvt's; whilst anotfier argued that he must Im* a kind of a Yankee feller, for he was mighty lucky S(nne- times. Therefore, having my curiosity arouscid, and lieiiig in the city in which the I'lophet now abides, 1 took an early opjxtrtunity to look him up. I mtit him, and my whitened beard dropjied off with ast inishinent, my pale leathery cheek resumed its roseate hue, and thus rudely was another dream disjielled, — for the I'rophet is as young as either you or 1. Of course I asked him all his secrets, and how it was thai he could forecast the changes of the weather with such accuracy so long ahead, but, instead of receiving the reply 90 CANADA ; T expcctol from siiiih a sagt^ — "Why yoii sno tlitit onrtain coml»usiil»l(! clcnicnts having thtur consiingninity ((vcr cor- tiiiii I'lt.'viiti.'d positions, whciiihy thf storm (ihnid, forming lui iuiiUMdis wavi', lowiMs its impending inlhicnces over thf sulttorriint'ous ]H>rtions oftln' viisty (h'cjt, and consoHdatiMl viicuum is thns crciilt'd, in the iMinglomcniti'd muss of hi-tcro- g(Mh!ons viipors, Ihiit coiistitntc ii sti^rm ciMitrti, and accumu- late in the. suhslratum of the tjthcr that surrounds this planet" — lie simidy and modestly said: " I do not claim any special merit for my prognostications — they are mendy the result of study ; and hy stt^ady appliance to the work in Imnd, with consUint comparisons of other seasons, 1 have been enahleil for some time alu.'ad to forecast the prol»al)i]ities of ajjproaching seasons with a tolerahle degree of success and ac(urac\, very satisfactory to both my friends and myself." Mr. V(!iinor claims that he makes a jioint of the following featur(!s, and maintains that, by j)roper ap|)li(iitiou the changes in the wi-ather may be foretold : the dryness or humidity of previous seasons, extremes of heat or ccdd, general direilion of winds, time of coinnuMicement of spring and fall, with characteristics (jf mid-summer, aspect and intensity of first frosts, abundance or rarity (tf thunder storms, years of unusual metet)ric displays, &c. Of course exactly how the Prophet does it is for the curious to lind out, hut no doubt many of our ambitious young iiu-n will be in the tiidd, and prophesy with mon; or less (U'gree of success, now that the riioduH ojn'raiuli has been exjilained, but still there is room enough for all, and a little gen»!rally mixed-up weather won't do any harm, even it it does dam- pen the i»oliticians and ojlieials generally. The Prophet, although a great naturalist anil ansiuthority on " Our Minis of I'rey," or the " Eagles, Hawks and Owls of Canada," FKOM THE LAKKS TO THK (U LF. 91 •1. ly 11- is nut lo Ix' fooled hy tin; hiiltits of aniiiiiils or the fli<,'hts of liiitls ; h«» considers ihaui somethiii^ like the |iroinist's of an M r. or lu-ad of a di'jiarUufut — f^eiierully spt-akiiij,', very uncfilain — Imt relies more especially on scientitie know- led;,'" and liis own past experience, lie also stati's that yoiin}^ men who ure about to enter into the prophes\ in^' husintiss slionld hear in mind that, to untU'rstand the weather, they must he out in it and live in it : not for an hour or a week or so hut for a nundjer of years, say twenly-tiv or fifty for the average youn^' man, althoiigh a very amhitious youth mi^dil experiment in the hack-yard in his shirt sleeves until it rained, when lie would be in a position to amply verify the fact that tlu' a(|ueous lluid was wut, und thus would one item of knowledj^e b»^ piined — and so would a cold. lie puliHshes an ahnanac ycsarly which is now havin<^ a ^oat run in tin; United Slates and (Janada. In it each year he ;,mvos imjtortant hints to those who would he weatherwise, as well as his j»ropliesies in detail for the yeai, as with other interesting and valuable matter. KK.SOKT.S. Then; an; .several places of interest in the City of Mont- real, and within a short distance of its boundaries, that are well wdrth visiting': — The Court House, new City llall, whur\es, and M.irche Kousecours (the old City Hall and buildin;^ first sighted on approaching from the river), which is the largest of the six markets that Montreal con- tiiiiis, wh(»se total sales of farm j»roduce auKumt yearly to ^oL'o.dOO, of which amount the Marche lionscMjours sidls .sonu' SI It'), 000, securing a revenue of $2."), 000 in rents, against an expenditure of only $3,700. The sales of fish at these nmrkets are estimated to amount to S^r.13,000. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ // ^' %? w.- [/ 1.0 I.I 1.25 ,50 IIIM IIIIIM "'' '" III 2.2 2.0 1.4 1.6 V. '^ (? ^;. s y/f Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST AAAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 V 40^ \\ o^ ^ /K%. <^' 5^ i/.A M^ _<■« 92 CANADA ; i;* A sight regularly seen in summer time, and which gener- ally impresses the visitor to the march^, is that of an old blind man in greasy attire, feeling his oats in the shape of extract of rye, extending his palm, and intoning in a husky voice, *' I'm sweet little Buttercup, Dear little Buttercup, Buy of your Buttercup, buy." In the winter seaoon all this is changed, the habitants, stand clothed in furs, shiveringly alongside their stalls, and, as tho purchaser hurries along, he is accosted with avez-vous hesoin de quelque chose. Upon the selection being pointed out from amongst a number of frozen blocks, which, when thawed, prove to be beef, pork or mutton, the butcher picky up his axe, and chops off a chunk like chopping stovewood ; but even his peaceful occupation is not unattended with danger, for a board inghouse keeper had her eye knocked oiit by a butter splinter, whilst the sausages she was selecting fell down " kerchunk," stunning her so badly that it took fully two hours and a bottle of gin for her to recover. Milk here is sold by the yard, and the boys buy milk icicles like cent sticks of molasses candy, whilst birds and chickens might be used successfully as cannon balls during a winter's siege. • The Bon Pasteur nunnery. Hotel Dieu hospital. Church of the Gesu, are worth visiting. Mount Royal park and cemeteries are laid out on a rock which stands alone in the wide river plain, and is supposed to have been formed from the deposit of an immense iceberg stranded here some centuries ago whilst the surrounding country was over- flowed by the sea. Foreign boulders are perched on the top of Montreal mountain, which itself is scored with gla- cial st't'ia. Some nf the authentic records are preserved in the museum, and recorded in books of authority ; others rest on personal observation, and they prove conclusively FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 93 that a greater part of this portion of the country was sub- merged during a glacial period ; other records peitaiuing to this theory have vahie when thus supported. The ceme- teries will amply repay the time spent in visiting them' and noting the prevailing customs for interments. The Sta- tions of the Cross in the Catholic portion (14 in number) comprise incidents in the Life of Christ until His cruci- fixion. A drive around the mountain and on the Lachine and Cote des Neiges road is most enjoyable. Tlie drive runs directly along the banks of the river, presenting fine scenery along the entire route, and, should the proper hour be selected, the visitor may enjoy his opportunity of watch- ing the descent of the steamer over the rapids. A good way for the venturesome to obtain a view of the descent would be to procure a skitf or canoe at the Victoria Bridge in Montreal and pull up the river to the foot of tlie rapids anchoring under the lee of Pelican island, will pre- sent to the beholder a most pleasing sight and one that will amply repay for the labor expended in the row up stream. Point Claire, 14 miles, and Ste. Annes, 18 miles from Mon- treal, are two charming places of summer resort, easy of access to and from the city. At Point Claire there are quite a number of cottages, which are always filled at the com- mencement of each season. Beloeil or Mont St. Hilaire is within a couple of hours' ride from the city, and affords a pleasant Sunday's recreation from the toil of the weeic. A short distance above Ste. Annes the dark waters of the Ottawa Biver join those of the St. Lawrence, and, like the gulf stream in the Atlantic, although they run side by side, they never mingle until over the rapids. The Ottawa Kiver, like the St. Lawrence, has both its legends and romances, of which I note one, from " Maple Leaves." k ^ 94 CANADA ; THE GRAVE OF CADIEUX. In ascending the Ottawa river one lias to stop at the rock of the High Mountain situated in the middle of the Portage of the Seven Chutes, at the foot of the Island of the Grand Calumet — it is there lies Cadieux's tomb, surround- ed by a wooden railing. Each time canoes pass the little rock the old voyageur relates to his younger conii)anions the fate of the brave interpreter. Cadieux was a roving interpreter, brave, poetical, and of a romantic turn of mind, and was often employed by both the government and missionaries to interpret the various Indian dialects. He generally spent the summer, hunting and in winter would purchase furs for tiie traders. After a winter thus passed by Cadieux at the portage, where he and the other families had their wigwams, it was decided in May to wait for other Indian tribes who had furs for sale, and then all were to come to Montreal. Profound peace was supposed at the time to exist in the settlements. All of a sudden, one day a young Indian, roaming about close to the rapids, got up quite a scare by rushing back out of breath and shouting, Nathaoue ! Nathaou^ ! ! the Iroquois ! the Iroquois ! ! There was in reality below the rapids of the Seven Falls, a party of Iroquois warriors who had been christianized, and were then waiting to levy toll, and appropriate the canoes that generally descended at that season loaded with skins. Only one chance of escape presented itself to the minds of the affrighted ones, and that was to attempt to bring the canoe through the rapids, a project that had previously been considered hopeless. It was also thought necessary to station some parties in the woods, in order, by FUOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 95 Ight ', by firing, to draw off the attentior of the Iroquois from the desperate attempt to run the rapids, and thus prevent pur- suit. Cadieux, being the ablest and most resolute, chose a young Algonquin warrior to accompany him in this peril- ous service ; and it was agreed that when the interpreter and his comrade should have succeeded to inveigle the Iroquois into the woods, they would try a circuitous route and attempt to join their friends, who also were to send after them should they be too long absent. Cadieux and the young warrior started for the Iroquois encampment, agi'eeing that the sign for the canoes to break cover and start on their fearful race would be the firing of their guns. Soon the report of fire-arms was heard in the distance, and was followed by three or four others in quick succession. On went the frail birch canoes amidst the foam and rocks, flying like sea-birds over the boiling caldron. It was verily a race for life, the extraordinary and superhuman skill of the Redskins alone saving them from death in a thousand shapes. " I saw nothing during our passage over the rapids," said Cadieux's wife, a pious woman, " but the form of a tall lady in white, hovering over the canoes, and showing us the way." They had invoked St. Anne, the patron saint of the mariner. The canoes escaped with safety, and arrived at the Lake of Two Mountains, but it was not ascertained until some time after, from the Iroquois themselves, what had become of Cadieux and his devoted follower. It seems that Cadieux had quietly watched for the Iroquois at the portage, plac- ing himself about an acre from his colleague, to allow the Iroquois to penetrate to the centre of the portage ; he then quietly waited for the death-yell of one of them shot by his helpmate, and then fired with unerring aim. The war- ^L r ^imm 96 CANADA ; whoop resounded, and the Iroquois, fancying they were attacked by a large i)arty of the enemy, separated, and charged in different directions. It was supposed the young Algonquin fell in attempting to join Cadieux. For three days the aborigines searched the woods in order to find traces of the encamjiment, never thinking the enemy had attempted to descend the rapids ; for three days and nights they searched for Cadieux and those were sleepless times for the white man. Foiled in their object they returned to their canoes. Several days then elapsed, and, as no tidings of Cadieux came, a party was formed and sent to scour the woods : traces of the Iroquois were unmistakable, and in- dications of Cadieux's presence were found. At the Port- age des Se/pt Chides they noticed a small hut of branches which, apparently, had been abandoned ; they passed it without search and continued their route, under the im- pression that Cadieux might have been compelled to ascend the Ottawa, and take refuge with the Indians of the Is- land. Two days later, the thirteenth after the skirmish, they noticed on repassing the hut, a small cross, at the head of a fresh grave on the surface. In it was found the cor])se of Cadieux, half covered with gi'een branches, his hands, clasping a sheet of birch bark (on which he had considerately written his own dirge), were laid over his chest. The opinion was, on reading the inscription on the bark, that exhaustion, hunger and anxiety, had produced on the inter])reter a species of hallucination called " la folic de huis." He had doubtless lived on wild fruit and berries, not daring to light a lire, for fear of betraying his place of concealment. He had been growing weaker daily, and, when the I'elief party had passed the hut two days previously he had recognized them as friends, but the sudden joy at a FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. n had ;r his in the luced \ folic ^rries, Lce of kvhen |lyhe at a prospect of a speedy deliverance had been so great that it made him speechless and inanimate. Seeing his last hope vanish as they passed him, and feeling his strength failing, he scribbled his adieux to the living, and then prejjared hi:s last resting-place. This done, and the cross erected, he laid himself down for the sleep of death. Before laying down to rest he embodied in verse his own dirge ; this chaunt by its simplicity is very attractive, being an expiession of hi,s a ■<*i ItWfc , 98 CANADA ; feelings to the objects which surround him, and his own regret for quitting life, closing by an invocation to the Virgin Mary. The bark on which the death-song was written was afterwards brought to the post of the Lake of the Two Mountains. The voyageurs have set it to a plain- tive melody, and it runs thus : " Petit rocher de la Haute montagne, Je vien8 tiiiir ici cette caiitpa^ne. Ah 1 doux erhofl ; entendez iiiefl poupirs, En languiepant je vais bientot niourir. Petitf' oieeaux, vos douces harmonies, Qiiand vouh cliantez me rattachent a la vie ; Ah I si j'avais dee aileB comme voum, * Je seraie heureux avant qu'il tut deux joure. Seul en ces boie, que j'ai eu de soucies Pendant toujouTH a nies pi chers amis ; Je demaiidaie : Helaa t Bont-ils noyes ? Lee Iruquoi:) lea auraient-ils tues? (finale> Un de ces jours, que m'etant eloigne En revtnant je vis une tumee Je n)e f^uis dit. Ah 1 Grand Dieu, qu' est ceci Lee Iroquois ni'ont-ils priH mon logis. Je me ^uin mie en pere a I'emliasf^ade Afln de voir se c'^tait t mbuscade Alors je vis Irois visages rfati9ai8 M'ont mis le coeur d'une trop grando joie. Mef; genoux plient, ma faible voix s'arrete Je tonibe .... Helas ! a partir ils s'appretent. Je reste seul . . . . Pas un qui me console Quand la mort vient par un si grande desole. Un loup liurlant vientpres de ma cabane Vour si mon feu n'avait plus de boucane, Je lui ai dit : Retire — toid'ici, ' ' ' Car, par ma foi, je percerai ton habit. I»•?= m f '• * !jop-holed Redoubt their first volley they pour. And Mohawks and Senecas sink in their gore ; From musket and huge musketoon they have seen, And heard— tiiat our heroes count just seventeen. Then dire is the rage of the shame-smitten crew, When they find that the Pale-faces number so few ; Again and again comes the stormy attack. And still, like pierced griflins, the pagans fall back. Day and night, night and day, till the tenth set of the sun, No trophy the maddened asnailants have won, Though their fleet-footed runners have hurried from far, Ealf a thousand tried allieH— their whirlwinds of war. Onondagas, Cayugas, Oneidas, are there. Some howling for vengeance, some wild with despair j Once again, with a hurricane rush and a shout. Like a deluge of lightning, they storm the Redoubt. • • • « • In a moment, 'tis over ! flas^h blending with flash. As sword-blades and tomahawks bloodily clash ; " Hve le Canada," DoUard exultingly cried, i, Then, witli cross to hie lips, like a oiartyr he died. I -pp^ 103 CANADA; And his faithful companions, hiw chivalrous hiand, With their gallant young captain, passed out of the laud. Draw a veil, pallid muse, o'er the finishing scene, And crown witli fresh garlands the brave seventeen. ♦ » • '■#■#' Several p »erns commemorative of stirring scenes on the Ottawa and its banks are published by John Dougall & Sons, Montreal. m a n PI > r FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 107 >, : Returning once more, we again call at Pointe Claire, 8o charmingly situated, and seemingly so quiet and peaceful, just the place for the lovers of aquatic sport and quiet contemplation and retirement — and visit its Beaconsfield vineyards, where the grape is claimed to be most success- fully cultivated, and, from specimens seen and tested at the vineyards of Messrs. Gallagher & Gauthier, it is our belief that the Province of Quebec will in time become able to raise enough grapes for its home consumption, and being the coming industry of the province will no doubt in the near future be able to supply the wants of the Dominion. Once more' 'running the Lachine rapids, we again arrive at Montreal, and in the evening take the boat for Quebec — distance by river some 180 miles. The steamer " Quebec,'' under the command of Capt. Robt. Nelson, is certainly, so far as the captain can con- trol matters, a very pleasant boat to travel on, but no doubt the company will find it to their advantage to have an equally courteous corps of officers, so that summer travellers) when detailing their reminiscences, will remember not only the afl'able, jolly and obliging captain and gcMitlemanly officers, but the courteous clerk, who wields such a ])ower for weal or woe whilst the traveller is on his boat. The steamer makes stoppages atSorel and again at Three Uivers, on^ of the oldest settled towns in Canada, having been founded in the year 1G18, and was formerly the seat of government of the French Governor. From Trois Rivieres to Quebec, the scenery from the river is beautiful and gi'and ; the eye never becomes weary of gazing on the ever-changing and varied aspects of the banks St. Lawrence. The hills and hillocks, many of them replete with historical interest, the cosy little French towns and their clean white SB t 108 CANADA ; cottages along*the banks, are tastefully laid out and admir- ably situated, and during the summer seem to nestle in a forest of verdure ; but once ashore, and the d m is soon dispelled, for, with the exception of a narrow strip of bottom land along the St. Lawrence, we find the country at the back of the hills barren, generally unproductive, and unfit either for agriculture or mining purposes — like the Dead Sea fruit, yileasantto the eye, but ashes in the grasp. Soon we pass Cap Rouge, and shortly come in sight of the citadel-crowned Cape Diamond, and a few moments later we are landed in the quaint old city of Quebec. On arrival at the ancient city the stranger somehow feels that he is on historical ground and amid old associations. It was here the adventurous Jacques Cartier, after planting a cross at Gasp(5 and ascending the St. Lawrence, passing in safety the gloomy gorge of the Saguenay, that he wintered during the winter of 1535-6, in the river St. Charles, by him called St. Croix. The panorama that greeted the bold navigator on his first appearance at the foot of Cape Diamond is thus described : " A mighty promontory, rugged and bare, thrust its scarped front into the surging current Here, clothed in the majesty of solitude, breathing the stern poetry of the wilderness, arose the clitfs now rich with heroic memories, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast defiance at his foes, where Wolfe, Montcalm and Mont- gomery fell, — as yet all was a nameless barbarism, and a cluster of wigwams held the site of the rock-built city of Quebec. Its name was Stadacona, and it owned the sway of the Royal Donacona. But Cartier and his adventurers were soon beseiged by the rigors of a Canadian winter, the rocks, the shores, the pine trees, the solid floor of the river, all alike were blanketed in snow ; the drifts rose far ^K" FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. Ill above the sides of their ships, and a frosty armor four inches thick encased the bulwarks, and, to make mutters worse, the scurvy broke out amongst the crew, and numbers of them died, leaving but a few in health. At last the terrible winter broke up, and Cartier and his comrades, having had enough of Canada for one season, and feeling considerably homesick, took the first opportunity to return, in order to give the other boys a chance to explore, so, after setting his men to gather a number of crystals, which he fondly imagined were diamonds, and also collecting a quantity of glittering mica, that he thought gold, he stole or kidnapped the two Indian chieis, Tuigaragny and Donacona, with their effects, to exhibit on his arrival as specimens of the natural productions of " New France," as Canada was then called, planted the emblem of Christianity, and sailed away, arriving under the walls of St. Malo, 16th July, 1536. Regarding Donacona and his Tribesmen so basely kidnapped by Cartier, excellent care had been takes of their souls, as also of their furs and other trappings, which were taken for their passage across. In due time they had both been baptised, and soon reaj^ed the benefit of the rite, since they both died within a year or two, tc the great detriment of the next expedition. The next explorer, in the person of Jean Francois de la Roque, Sieur de Roberval, a nobleman of Picardy, came in state with the following honors attached (on ])archment) : Lord of Norembega, Viceroy and Lieut. General in Canada, Hochelaga, Saguenay, Newfoundland, Belle Isle, Carpunt, Labrador, the Great Bay, and Baccalaos. He also got a good cash grant from the French Treasnry,with whioh lie e<|uipped five vessels, and to Cartier was given the post of (Captain General, and a divy of the spoils. On again arriving at 15 !P 112 CANADA ; l>H Quebec the savages anxiously enquired for their ki(hiiii>ped chiefs, then the nohleuiau, like Jenuniah of old, was diploiiiiitie, and lied like a troojier, telling the savugcs that, although Donacona was dead, the others had-niunied in France, and were living in state like great lords. This season, like the first, was a hard one on these jiioneers. In the year 1542 Roberval, with three shii)s and two hundred colonists, made the first attempt at set;leiuent on the heights of Cap Jiouge ; here all tiie colonists were housed under one roof, like one of the experinuaital com- munities of recent days, ollicersj soldiers, nobles, art sans, laborers and convicts, with the women and children with whom liiy the future of New Frauee. This Hrst attempt at a settlement soon proved a failure, and the Canadian annals from 1542 to 1G()8 offer a perfect blank, no Europeans having remained behind. On the ord of duly, 1608, a group of French artilicers, 28 in number, under the wnimand of Captain Samuel de Champlain, were engaged (on the site where 82 years afterwards, in 1690, was built, to conmiemorate a French victory, the church of Notre Dame de la Victoire) in the construction of an "habitation," and thus laid the foundation of the future " city of Quebec." They next proceeded to clear lands for gardens, and, although suffering terrible hardships during their first winters, soon obtained a substantial foothold. In the following spring the colony was augmented by Marias and I'ontgrave with a number of new settlers. In 1615 the Recollet Fathers, members of the order of St. Francis, arrived at Quebec. In 1616 the peltry trade with the savages had assumed con- siderable projtortions, and the gains from that trade served to erect substantial dwellings and churches. The colony thus founded continued to flourish until the year 1689, when , )C'C. .ugh soou pring with [hers, In Icon- Irved [lony 'hen MONTMORENCI IN WINTER. r i .1 FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 115 a Frenchman named DeCallier originated a daring plan, in which he proposed that France shouUl make herself mistress of New Y ork and Virginia by purchase, treaty or force, offering to conduct, in order to effect the desired resjilt, thirteen hundred soldiers and three hundred Canadians to Fort Orange on the Hudson and Manhattan (New York), in order to capture those posts by sudden assault. The conquest, he argued, would nuike the King of France master of one of the finest seaports in America, open at all seasons to navigation of all kinds, and of a region possessing a fine climate and fertile lands, which the English themselves had conquered from the "Dutch." The French King and his ministers approved of the plans submitted, and the breaking out of the war between France and England shortly after- wards prepared for the city of Champlaiu the thrilling scenes which were afterwards enacted in Quebec upon the return of Count de Frontenac in 1G89. The year following a Quebecer named de Tortneuf started with 50 French Canadians and GO Indians to attack and capture the stations on the Bay of Casco, near where Portland, Elaine, now stands, which stations surrendered after a slight resistance. The scenes of blood, midnight pillage and destruction by the ]\Iontreal band at Schenectady and by the Three Rivers band at Salmon Falls, with the barbarism and atrocities com- mitted by the Quebec band and their Indian allies, have already passed into history, and led to a terrible retaliation by the English, who, after a series of disastrous defeats and few victories, succeeded in capturing the City of Que- bec after the decisive battle on the Plains of Abraham on the 1 Hth September, 1759, a victory which cost the livps of the victorious Wolfe and the gallant, brave but vanquished Marquis de Montcalm, thus bringing the city under Eng- r 116 CANADA ; lish rule. For a wliile afterwaids the bitteriKiSS of feeling between the Freiieh and English Hpeakiiig coniinimities entirely placed a harrier to the progress of the city, hut as the younger gcnierations grew uj), and a new jMjpulation poured in, new suburbs were added, and now the city com- pi'ises Quebec within, Quebec withotit, f.owcr Town, St. liochs and St. Sauveur, and numbers about 40,()0() jteople, Quebec within being entirely wal)"d in — a city within a fortress. The ])ublic buildings are numerous and substan- tial, and along the St. Louis, St Johns and Montmorenci roads are many residences and mansions that will contrast favorably with those on the outskirts of London itself. The citizens generally are sociable and denu)eratic in their tendencies, and are certainly, taken as a body, the most conscientious of any in the Dominion ; they have several institutions of benefit to the community, such as the Museums, Historical Society, Hos[)ital, also a Y. M. C. A. Eooms and various Catholic religious institutions. The shipping business is but of short duration, the season last- ing but from May until the middle of November, and con- sists almost exclusively of the export of timber and logs, in which an immense trade is transacted every season. The monetary value of the exports of lumber from Quebec alone during the season of 1880 amounted to $900,000. Churches, both Catholic and Protestant, are very numerous in the city and suburbs, and to judge from appearances the people are very religious, for from five o'clock a. m. about every fifteen minutes during the day the incessant ringing, clanging and tolbng of bells is enough to drive the stranger to distrac- tion. It left the impression that the people are very remiss in their religious duties, or else very deaf and forgetful, to be constantly in need of such reminders. It was my privi- FROM THE LAKES TO THE C.VLF. 117 logs, The one chos, city are teen and trac- miss 1, to Privi- lege, whilst in this city, to see a party jdantcd in style under the auspices and according' to the rules of the Enin theso vain fours, but he was a new bund und ntit funiiliar with th(^ const ; h(! wus bcwildi'ivd by tlie rain und darkness, and allriwcd the " (Iusjk' Pac'k(!l " to tukebcr o\\ n course, merely keepinj^f her liead strui«^ht. Sonu; time bad tl»us passed, during' which tlie vessel had shipi)eect, rocky wise iniself river B feet, ,VCJ but once between its walls of rock the depth is never ■ ss than oOO feet, sometimes as high as 750 feet. On either side, at a distance of about a mile, the cliffs rise up straight, dark, and weather-scarred, varying in perpendicular from 1,200 feet to 1,600 feet, — suoli is its character from its source until it joins the. St. Lawrence. On the right bank the clilt's are poorly mantled here and there with stunted pines and scrub timber, but on the left there is scarcely a sign of life or verdure, and the rocks stick up bare and rugged in the gloomy atni()si)liere Hke the bones of an (jld world after a terrible volcanic disturbance. Lake St. Jolin, the head water of the river, is some forty miles in length fringed with lieavy timber and a level sandy country. Its waters are clear, and contain numbers of small fish, eleven rivers flow into the lake, and yet it has but the one outlet for its immense body of water. There is a curtain hW of some two hundred and tliirty- six feet called by the Indians " Oueat Cliouan," flowing into the lake, and so conspicuous as to be visible for some miles distant ; there are several towns along tlie Saguenay, and from which large ({uantitics of timber are annually exported. A few miles ])elow the southern fall in the river is Chicoutimi, which is the head of tide water, and to which point vessels of the largest class ascend for lumber, Ha ! Ha ! Bay, some sixty miles from the St. Lawrence, is a fine spread of water after emerging from the gorge of the Lower Saguenay; it is said the name was given to the bay, in an ecstasy of delight by a i)arty of explorers, who were astonished to find open water after such dismal realities. At two places, St. Marguerite and between Capes Trinity and Eternity, where smaller tributaries help swell the deep black stream, a breach occurs iu the wall of rocks ^^...^ 134 CANADA ; as if some giant hand had torn them forcihly back and left them strewn and baffled of their povver, in unctHith lumps over the valleys beyond, but these are the only o])en- inti;s, from the silent gloom of this dead river. Than these two dreadful headlands nothing can imagined more grand or impressive : the rugged char; r of the river is partly softened, and bears an aspect akm to the canons of the Sierra Nevada in freshet time ; the land wears a look of life and wild luxuriance which, though not rich, seems so in comparison with the previous awful barrenness. Cape Trinity is thickly clothed with tir and beech, mingled in a color contrast, which is pleasant and attractive to the eye, especially when the rocks show out amongst them with their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of silver shining in the sun. But Cape Eternity is the very reverse of this, and well becomes its name. It is one tremendous cliif of limestone, more than 1,500 feet high, ana inclin- ing forward more than 200 feet, and seeming as if at any moment it would fall down and overwhelm the deep black stream which flows so cold, deep and motionless below. Companionship becomes a necessity in a solitude like that encountered on the Saguenay, if only to relieve the mind of the feeling of loneliness and desolation that seems to oppress all who venttire up this stern, grim, watery chasm, for the idea of mirth abroad seems like a schoolboy's idea of fun in a grave-yard at midnight. Statue Point is another attraction where at about 1,000 feet above the wjiter a huge rough gothic arch gives entrance to a cave. Before the entrance to this black a]ierture a gigantic rock once stood; some winters ago it gave way, and the monstrous block of granite came crashing through the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the entrance FROM THE LA.KES TO THE GULF. 135 ynm, ike a way, to the cabin it had guarded, perhaps for ages. The Tableau Rock is a cliff of dark limestone, some 600 feet high by 300 wide, straight and almost as smooth as a mirror. At different points of the ascent steam is shut off, and the beat views presented to the traveller, and plenty of time is allowed by the captain for a thorough study of the various aspects of the scenery. In times past the Marguerite and other tributaries, together with the Saguenay, bore an excellent reputation for salmon fishing, but in this respect these rivers are becoming beautifully less each succeeding year : all the really productive streams where fishing is a sport, or even can be made a pastime, are leased to private parties or individuals, so that the enthusiastic disciple of Izaak Walton who expects to find good fishing along the rivers of Lower Canada will return considerably enlightened with regard to Canadian tishiug. At Tadousac the Gov- ernment have one (»t their fish-breeding establishments, and it is said there are so many officials who have to be supplied, and so many friends in Parliament who watch with interest the venture, tliat it takes all the larger size fish to supply the want of those who advocate the institu- tion. The small fry from one inch to an inch and a half long are turned adrift at the mouths of the rivers to which they are consigned, where they at once become food for sea-trout, king-fishers, ducks, gulls, &c. This is now the sixth year that these fish-breeding operations have been established, and it is estimated that for every full-grown sal- mon distributed to the rivers it must have cost the Govern- ment some $75 each fish. One thing is certain, and to which fishermen and habitants all agree in opinion, that, since the Government has taken to making laws and re- gulations as to tish and fishing, the fishing has been getting 130 CANADA ; worse. An Indian was asked if he could give any reason for the gradual decrease of salmon in the Saguenay dis- trict, and his reply was : " They try make salmon at Tad- ousac — God not like that, salmon not like that, salmon go away." In ten days fishing on the "Marguerite" five salmon were seen in and out of the water, and each with the unmistakable mark of the net around its neck; there- fore the best way to go salmon iishing on these rivers is to go to sleej) or read and smoke and hire an Indian to ca])- ture or catch you the fish needed. The sea-trout fishing in the Saguenay district is getting worse and worse every year. The Bergeronne is mostly reserved by the Govern- ment for the preser cation of sea-trout, so by the time the habitants and the Government net have closed their operations there are but few left to be either preserved or destroyed. LE GENIE DE L'ILE I'EKCE. There are several delightful legends connected with the Saguenay and the Lower St. Lawrence ])ublished at Quebec, and in the French language, that will amply repay the time and labor s})ent in their translation. L'Oniithologie dv Canada, Soin'cs C ' 'T 140 CANADA ; deatli most horrible. Wild despair nerved their hearts, and with one desperate resolve men, women and children crowd throuji;h the narrow passage amidst the scorching flames, but the human hyenas are on the watch, and as the terror-stricken ones rush forth a sliower of poisoned arrows mow them down. The Iroquois warrior gloating ftii liis victory flonrislies his tomahawk with a yell of triumph and deadly hate, and soon the silence of death pervades the narrow abode. The time from the attack until morning was tlicn spent by the victors in securmgtlie troi)hi('s — the scalps of their victims, and history mentions that but five out of the whole company of two liundred escaped with tlu^ir lives. This dark deed, still vivid l)y tradition, is often made the subject of remark by the Restigouche settlers, and until a few decades ago the blanched and mouldering bones of the Micmacs could be seen strewn over the grotto. Tliis deed is mentioned in Jac(|iies Cartier's Second Voyage, Ch. IX., and is the subject of a legend in the Soirees Cana- diennes. The student of psychology whilst raml)ling on the islands of the lower St. Lawrence, or up the silent Saguenay, will meet with numberless places where deeds of darkness were perpetrated in such modes as to still chain the restless wandering s})irit to the things of earth and its wild abode, whilst here no doubt those disturbed and restless spirits are still meandering about the places from whence they dei)avted, and are possibly endeavoring by all the means within their power to make known through some medium in rapport with themseh es the terrible history of the deeds of their time. Many are the tales told by sailors and others, which, although laughed at, cannot be scientifically or reasonably explained away — the various apparitions of restless spirits that still FROM THE LAKRS TO THE GULF. 141 iiied linger or visit those gloomy rocks, and of the plaintive sounds and doleful cries uttered hy the Bralllavd de la M(Kjdelehie, so that the secrets so long silent may yet be revL'aled to those who are sutticiently versed with the woik- ings of the so-called supernatural to pursue and held converse with the troubled spirits who have gone before. FISHING, AND WHERE TO FISH. To those who have enjoyed the delights of the luscious " Pompino" of Florida waters, or the /S'/Ktn/.s/i mackerel, bass, or sheepshead of the (lulph Stream, the enjoyment of fishing in fresh water is but the desire and sport of catching them, for the fish of these fresh-water lakes and rive-s seem flat and insipid to the taste when cooked in comjtarison with the finny tribes caught south of Lat. 35° X. Ibnvi'ver, during the summer months, when parties are roaming all over the Domonion, there /« a delight in organizing a small party, and either fishing on the lakes or camping and fishing on the rivers of the Lower Provinces, so I attem[)t, therefore, to show the entire route with the fish to be taken at each point. In Lake Superior the neighbor- hood of the Manitoulin Islands atfords good sport, besides famous camping grounds. Steamers ]tass constantly, so that even a short sojourn can be made very liealth-giving and pleasant. Down Lake Huron, Southampton is a favor- ite resort, and, should you be content with pickerel, herring and white fish, sport in plenty can be obtained. Living is cheap and hotels are numerous, whilst the Islanil and St. Lambert light but a mile away make a pleasant ground for recreation and picnic parties. Near the lake at Southam])ton there is a fine spring of water strongly impregnated with iron and salts, so that for the weak and debilitated there r 142 CANADA ; is life in the waters, whether you drink them or use tliem for ))iitliinj,'. For tliose v.iio like to stroll by themselves, tliey ciiu wiiiuler up the Siuijieen river, which enipiics into Lake Uuidn at tiiis point, and thus acquirt? ]iractice in handling the rod. lioth the Lakes of Huron and Superior live noted f(.)r the high winds that prevail during the summer season, so tiiat, althougii fre.->h and bracing, novices should not trust themselves too far from the shores without an expe- rienced hand to manage their boat. Forty-live miles south from Northamjjton lies the town of Kincardine, well situated on rising ground. Here also j)lenty of lake lishing can be enjoyed at a nominal cost, whilst means of access to the cities are both by boat and rail. Goderich, the next town ah)ng the borders of the Lake, is a regular summer resort, and is usually well j)atronized with visitors. Here are line views, good drives, and a nice park for promenades, so that fishing, although once in a, while an hour or two is devoted to its delights, still, time is generally occupied in a less prolital>le but ])resumably more pleasant manner. It is rumored by some of the oldest settlers that time was wh(Ui game, wild fowl, deer, bear, etc., etc., were jdentiful from here to Owen Sound, but it seems they anticipated Uncle Horace's advice and went west t. repute July or )est and fish are in fine condition, beautiful to look upon, exquisite in flavor, and extraordinarily strong and active. Strong tackle must be used, as it will come in very opportunely in the event of a tussle with a salmon. Wherever there is a tide ripple or eddy they lie thick, and take with a rapidity that is sur- prising,— from one to three and a half pounds is the average weight. The flies requisite for the spoit are the scarlet- ibis wings, with gold or silver twist for bodies, the j\hirch brown, the cowduug, orange dun, cinnamon fly, red tackle and bright red-bodied fly with grey wings ; small flies and light strong tackle are best. A table of distance is appended, so the fisher can choose his own route. On the south side of the St. Lawrence, the established railroad and steamboat routes are suitable. To arrive at the north coast it would be necessary to charter a yacht or small schooner, which is by far the most pleasant mode, and where five or six join together it is astonishing at the small amount of expendi- ture for a season's enjoyment. Yachts or schooners, with a competent man to take charge, can be obtained either in Quebec or Gasp(^, but should you be alone you can invari- ably find either a schooner or steamer that will transport you and your camp to the point desired. Tents now-a-duy s are made so light and durable, and of such various designs and shapes, that the selection must be left to the choice of the party, but you will find a circular or tripod tent far preferable to the square bbCituse of the less resistance they offer to the wind, whilst they are far more securely fastened. Use a spliced rod for salmon, well balanced, 16 to 18 feet in length. Ash, with a lance wood, whalebone or tortoiseshell tip or of greenheart wood, will render good service. Mount a click reel with 100 or more yards of waterproof line, stock your book with casting lines, double 150 . • CANADA ; ones, and flies of sober materials. For provisions, take every- thing you need, for little is obtainable excej)t eggs and gometimes milk, so it remains between yoursplf and your grocer whether the provisions and other requisites have been up to the standard of your desires. Sometimes you will be fairly dealt with, but oh my ! look out first your- self and then trust the gi'ocer the next time. DISTANCES, AND HOW TO GET THERE. From Detroit, Windsor, Port Huron, Sarnia, Goderich, Kincardine and Southampton, there are several lines of steamers running the entire lengths of Lakes Huron and Superior. Passage on either of them is very reasonable, and the tourist can be landed at almost any point he desires. From Manitoulin Island to Saull Ste. Marie, steamer 110 miles " Saiilt Ste. Marie to Owen Sound, steamer 240 " " Owen Sound to Southampton, staee 35 " " Southampton to Kincardine, road or boat 45 " " Kincardine to Goderich, '• " 35 *• " Goie, " Port Colborne," boat. . 185 " " Port Colborne to St. Catharines, road or canal 22 " « Niagara to Toronto, G.WR., t)Ottt H2 " •' Toronto to Kinjiston, rail or boat Iftl '• " Kingston to Montreal, " " 172 " " Montreal to Quebec, " " 180 " " " to Ottawa, " " 119 " " Quebec to Lake St. Jo.«eph, road 14 " " " to Tiidousac 115 " " " to Murray Bav 75 " " « toCampbellton, railto Gaspe, boat 314 « •• Tadousac to Bersiniis 80 '* " Bersiniis to Mistassini 40 " " Quebec to St. John, N.B 588 « " " to Halifax. N.S 686 •< « " to Anticosti 450 '* " Picton, N.S. , to Charloitetown, P.E.I .36 " " Halifax to Pictou, N.S 114 « During the season, when navigation is open, the Richelieu FROM THE LAKES TO THE GUL^. 151 « <( n t ( (< (( ti (C (• ove the sea level, and extend almost due east and west from Truro to a total length of about 100 miles, and average from ten to twelve miles in breadth. The prevailing geological formations in the Cobequid Hills are granite, porphyry, and clay slate in the upper portions ; above the shores of the bay, limas, and on the northern side red sandstone and the coal measures. The range is claimed to abound in minerals, a lavge vein of specular iron ore occurs close to the line. No doubt, in the future, the region will attract the attention of capitalists. Stellarton is the centre of a rich coal district. Iron ore is also found here in large quantities, and a furnace is in oper- ation. The Albion mines have been worked some fifty years, and a few miles away are the Drummond, Acadia and Black Diamond mines. New Glasgow is some three miles from Stellarton, and situated in one of the richest mineral terri- tories on the continent ; it also has an extensive ship-build- ing trade, some of the largest vessels hailing from Nova Scotia having been built here. A track some five miles long is laid from the mine to Abercrombie Point in South Pictou, from which place the coal is shipped. The best mines on the northern coast being those in the vicinity of Pictou and New Glasgow. In the former place are not only "0^- :i! 160 FKOM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. H found excellent mines of coal, but valuable quarries of building stone has been the means of producing a finely- settled country in its neighborhood, and its trade is consid- erable in stone, lumber, coal and fish, whilst that of New Glasgow is assuming considerable importance. Brigs and schooners from all portions of the American coast resort to Pictou, and the exports of this little town have at times amounted to considerable. The population is much the same class of men that are found amc^ngst the " Geordies " or in Wigan and Swansea, but are not as intelligent and energetic as the miners of Pennsylvania, probably because they are fewer in number and more under control ; but churches are numerous, therefore a continued residence amongst them would be the only means of ascertaining correctly their ideas and their ambitions. In this district, as generally throughout Nova Scotia, the Scotch element predominates. Opposite the town, the harbor extends and branches into East, the West and Middle rivers, several mines and the town of New Glasgow, Ixiing situated on the East river, boats also run up the others. Naturally one of the attractions whilst here is to go " down in a coal mine, underneath the ground," which ciin be done by taking the steamer that runs regu- larly to the mines, and then making known your intentions to the fore* ..in, who cjin generally find some one to chap- erone you for a small ctmsideration ; then, if you are under the guidance of an old miner, he will conduct you to the mouth of the pit and bid you step into the cage or swinging bucket, tluMi, with a " lower away " to the engineer, you commence to (l<\scend, and every once in a while hear the wire rope or chain crack above your head, which somehow makes you feel a little nervous about dropping into the FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 161 also list lind," ll'j^'U- mder the you r the ihow the black abyss, seemincrly so f\ir below. On arriving at the level some hundreds of feet below the surface, you are taken in charge by a guide with a grimy face and black- ened clothes, who, with a bull's-eye lantern attached to his .lACiJUKR CAHTIKK. cap, leads the way, and sc^mehow or other, here in tlie darkness and groping your way through those flickering lights, you begin to think that at some sharp turning you 162 CANADA ; ?J may come suddenly in contact with His Satanic Majesty himself; and when you remember the horrors the preacher depicted and the unpleasant odour of the brimstone the feeling comes over you that you wish you had not come and would like to go home. Some of the miners on the lower levels work in such cramped-up positions that on aiTivinjT at the surface it is found almost impossible to straighten, and after a few years* service the ac([uired form of the body has become tlie most natural and comfortable jxjsition. The mines are worked daily and during the Ixisy season by additional gangs at night, the day gang returning to the surface each shift, but the horses ar(; left constantly below to perform the work of hauling from place to place, as new levels are found and new veins struck. The vocation of a miner is alive witli peril and fraught with danger, but the men themselves are a venturesome jovial set generally S])eaking, who view very lightly the hardships they undergo, and even the numerous accidents are soon obliterated and forgotten as soon {is the danger is jjast. The exj>losion and flooding of the mines, and the recent Stellarton disaster, are already l)ecoming to be quoted as an happening of the Icing ago. Twenty-four miles north-east from the City of Halifax stands the grand old Mount T'niake, a baysaltic de})osit whose rugged aspect gives but few signs of the mineral wealth embedded in its formation. Its crystalized rock is ])ermeated with seanis and veins of goM, silver, and other minerals, copj)er that represent the wealth of the world at large, and will in no distant period become the means of attracting thousands to its vicinity, for being in close jiroximity to the city, and connecting with a series of hills of easy ascent, no ditticulty will be experienced in trans- FROM THK LAKES TO THE GULF. 163 long linenil l-ock is other hrld at ims of close If hills trans- ])ortation, whilst furtlier to the nortli, iK'yond tl)e hills, the soil hecoincs prolitic, iiml is well watered and adniiiably ada|>t(Ml to a<,'riculture and tlie sustenance of a niininjj; ])0)tulatiiin. Some of tlie hills seatti'icd over this portion of Nova Scolia proihice a reinarkahle variation of the nia<^netic needle, theveby indicatin<^ the jjresence of a body of niagi.etie ore, and are supposed to Imj wonderfully rich in precioiis metals, but furtluir north volcanic forces have in the long distant past produced extraordinary results. I ' * 164 CANADA ; Limestone, granite and trap-rock are heaped in a confused mass, presenting a surface at once rough and rugged, and which will take both enterprise and capital to thoroughly explore and lay bare their rich«*s. Being easy (jf access and close to a port of entry, with the continued improve- ments in stamping and quartz crushing machinery, Mount Tniake offers to the investor unequalled inducements to develop her resources. Mr. Henry Hogan of Montreal, and also an exten^sive stockholder in the De Lery gold I iino in the Province of Quebec, is also the owner of a claim on Mount Uniake, comprising some 18 acres in extent area, 21 specimens of which upon being assayed through the ordinary fire assay produce the following results: over \\ ounces virgin gold to the ton, being a production of over 30 dollars per ton near the surface lode, and conti- nually becomes richer as the vein is worked. Some three barrels of the ore have been already sent to Boston, U. S., which has shown a result of 3^ ounces to the ton of ([uartz, say about 67 dollars per ton. As improved niachinevy is em- ployed, the mine is expected to yield on an average over 3 ounces per ton. Hut to return to the Ca])ital l)ack again (which report has it is situated just three miles from H , but that libel was evidently circulated by an early settler in disparagement of the country), gazing over the waters of its harbors to those of the deej), broad and restless blue At- lantic beyond, silently meditating, and oh ! the many scenes and memories of years gone by that come rushing to the mind ; episodes that trans] ''•ed upon its waters that at times were productive of teri-r, at others of delight. The waters, now .so placid and traiKjuil, seem hardly a part of the same ocean that gave us such a terrible experience on FROM THE LAKES TO THE GUIF. 165 the night of the 18th of October, 1858, when the home- ward-bound Australian " Royal Charter " met her fate off Puftin Island, or the angry seas that rolled over the niu li- ster " Great Eastern" 500 miles westward of Cape Clear, or those over which our swift blockaders were chased wliilst making the South Carolinian port, each trip being fraught with danger and death both from cannon on the surface and chains and torpedoes below. The waters now so still, with scarcely a cat's paw to disturb their glassy serenity, seem as if rejMjnting of their boisterous actions and alhiring fogs, when the noble " Atlantic " with her living freight went head on to the bleak and sombre rocks to her destruction, and the loss of nearly 500 human lives. The terrible strength and fury of its wild waters when once aroused is never obliterated from the memory of those whose callings require theui to brave its fury whilst in its passionate moods. Tlie first trip of the good steamship " Minnesota," in tliB fall of 1872, comes vividly before me : the fourteen days' combat with the winds and sea in the Bay of Biscay ; the death of the quarter-master at the wheel, with his ribs crushed in by the cruel spokes ; the in- juring of the sailors ; the burials at sea, in the height of the gale, and after escjij)iug the perils of the ocean ; the fire tliat caught among the coals from combustion, and at the criti- cal time the break down of machinery on Christmas day, whilst still 300 miles eastward of Havana ; the bending of the stanchions under the cotton deck, and the sliding of the cargo of railroad iron, that momentarily threatened destruction to over 200 souls on board, and the prayer of thankfulness and sense of relief experienced wlien The Hole in the Wall and Great Isaacs were first sighted. The heart- felt eulogies that were passed upon those gallant officers and 166 CANADA ?^': ytf " n true seamen, Captains Hamlin and Johnstoikt', .ire niomorie.: tliat time cannot obliterate whilst the ocean remains to be contemplated. And still another experience comes before the mental vision : not of calm seas and hidden danj^crs, but when mighty Boreas assumed full sway, and compelled affrighted mortals to do him homage and acknowletige his sceptre. The hurricanes exjjerienced in the spring of 187G, when the barometer even for the " roaring forties, " was unusually low, the highest pressure being 28.80. The hurricane is thus alluded to by a fellow voyager : At two o'clock on the morning of Feb. 11, the barometer, which had been stationary unusually low, commenced suddenly falling, and the wind that had been blowing a gale from the north-west suddenly veered to the south-west, and by six a.m. was blowing a gale from that quarter ; at nine the gale increased to a hurricane, and the sea " cross and angry " literally ran mountains high. The ship wa.s "hove to" with her head on, but the force of the wind was tremendous ; hailstones struck with such violence as to indent the woodwork where they fell ; it was impossible at times for any human being to stand on deck except under the lee of some of the houses or bulwarks, the waves mak- ing a clean sweep of the shij), and carrying with them everything that was not well bound down. At twelve next noon, after hours of painful anxiety, the hurricane was at its height, and a heavy double sea struck tlie ship, com- pletely submerging her and burying her deep in the foam. There was a moment of suspen.se as the feeling that the vessel was settling down came over one, but a gentle throb from the engMies gave signs that she was yet rising ; the otiicer on the bridge found himself standing in the midst of the boiling foam, with the feeling that the ship was gone J • ■! :t FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 167 from under him, and as he clung to the iron rails the storm cr.nvas was swejit away, and the iron stanchions beiit like wire. As the ship righted, the damage was ascertained. The chart room, ofticers' rooms, surgery, with all the deck houses, were entirely .swei)t away, timbers were smashed, and the trim, staunch ship wore the appearance of having passed through a fire. The gallant Captain Sadler with his chi«f and second officers had a narrow escape with their lives, whilst everything belonging to them was swept away by the sea ; heavy seas were shipped afterwards, but the force of the hurricane was spent, so, with a succession of south-easterly gales, the good ship made the port of New York. Such are some of the dangers encountered by those who tempt the moods of Nepttme, but on days like this the mind easily drifts away oft", on the dark blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico or over the light green of the coral reefs, amongst the West Indies, around the Florida coasts, or skirting the " ever-faithful Isle, " but such reveries are soon dispelled when we notice the practical, e very-day life, indulged in by the fishermtm wlio make this port their stjirt- ing-point, and surely a cod-fislier's life is not to be envied, for it is generally laborious work and heavy risks. The manner of their occupation usually followed is this : the owner of the schooner, who is often the captain also, hires a crew of from thirteen to fifteen men to work on "nfieeres," that is, so many parts of the profits for the owners, so many for the captain, and a divide amongst the crew of the remain- der. After shipping, a day or two is occupied in fitting out, mending sails, setting running and fixing standing gear, and getting the vessel ship-shape. The cook is sometimes sent up town to lay in stores, and generally after ordering the provisions down takes a parting glass and returns next 168 CANADA ; ■'1 day, and sometimes undur escort, to the »reat relief of those wlio were anxiously vaiting for eight bolls and grub time ; then sails are bent, decks washed off, touches of paint here and there, ends of lines whi})ped, ropes coiled down, and standing gear ja-ojierly seized ; a jigger all aroiind, and, with a fair wind, the Hsherman stands out for the oiling. Now he finds when; the discomfort begins : with a crew of from thir- teen to fifteen or sixteen men, for one half to be below in, the narrow limits of the cuddy, and in bad weather with the hatches closed, is something stifiing, whilst on deck it is a continual drench. The first day ojit and our fisherman is transforniepj)ing her engines, and from fancied security he is hurried int(j a watery grave. Lucky he deems himself if in a week or two the " well " is full, anil they make back for a market with a successful catch, and obtain a fair amount of cash to recompense them for their labor, still, year by year, does the fisherman have to FROM THE LAKES TO THE Gl'LF. 169 line, leces- ,'e is with 11(1 as viiW. " )eace- uner thout from ucky full, jatch, m for ve to venture further and further from the coasts in the ([uest of good grounds, until now the favorite localities are some thousand miles from the shores of America. Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and I'rinct^ Kdward Island, the three provinces that comprise the Eastern portion of the Dominifjn, contain intiie aggregrate some 7oO,()0() inhahi- tants, hardly a sulHcient numbtM- to ])o])ulate a fourth-rate city. Still these ])rovinces have three mimic houses of Par- liament, with all the attendant dignity and parai)lu!rnalia ; two houses of Representatives, and three Lieutenant (lover- nors; in fact, if the strangers do not meet over tiveollicials out of a possible six inhabitants or acquaintances it is<{uite a subject of remark, and speculation is rife about the vacancy that is thought about to occur, liutthis muchly-governed little country brings to mind very forcibly the Mississip- pian's ^i)inion of " Louisiana's llovernmeut, " that it was nothing but a two-bit arrangement all around I From Hali- fax to St. Johns, New Brunswick, is but a distance of 276 miles : here, as in Nova Scotia, Neal Dow's principles are formally enforced and the only way for the bibulously- iuclined to satisfy his longmgs is to " go to de docter," as the colored gentleman advisetl his (juestioner, " why, boss, de only way what you kin git relieved of dcm ere cramps is to go to de ilrug-store man, fur dere is a female samir ' ^ y (seminary) near town, and de probation laws is a gwine here." So after paying lu-avily for a}irescription, and imbibing some of the meanest concoctions of spirits and ex- tmcts, you fancy that the scriptural injunction was altogether wrong and astray, or at all events not adapted for these pro- vinces, when it recommended to " give strong drink to him that is ready to perish, and wine to they that be of lieavy heart. " Of course throughout this barren unproductive region 170 CANADA should anything be taken that would make glad the heart of man, it would possib'y deplete his purse, and. as the oppor- tunity would in all probability never again occur for him to obtain another nickel or a dime it would be the height of folly to waste or expend that amount on a pleasure that was but momentary, for, as a friend remarked, " I feel pretty bad to-day, I have been reckless, and another ten cents has gone to the devil." PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. From Halifax to Pictou is some seventy miles over a rocky, hilly, and generally unproductive, country ; and from this coal region to Charlottetown is but fifty-five miles, whilst means of communication between the two ports is kept up regularly during the season by steamer. Charlottetown is the capital and principal port of Prince Edward Island, which Island is divided into three counties. Kings, Queens and Prince, and contains about 100,000 inhabitants. The Island is some one hundred and thirty miles in length and thirty-four miles in its greatest breadth, averaging eighteen miles. It is an excellent farming country, and its soil is very fertile. Its coasts on all sides are very much indented by inlets from the sea. Several of which form good harbors. The Island itself lies between 46" and 47° N. lat., and between 62° and 64" 30' W. Long. The Island is situated in the southern portion of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is separated from the mainland by the Strait of Northumberland , and from Cape Tormentine in New Brunswick to Cape Traverse in P. E, I. is but a distance of nine miles. It seems there were several claimants, from John Cabot down, who asserted that they were the first discoverers of the Island; but, as possession was nine points of the law, in the ; . FROM THE LAKES TO THE C.UI.F. 171 year 1523 one Verazzani, in the employ of the French Government, planted, as was usual in those days, the emblem of Christianity on its soil, and claimed the whole region round about for the King of France, alth()ui,di no attempt for the settlement of the Island was made until the year 1063. In that year a French naval oflicer obtained a grant of the Island from the company of New France for the j)ur])ose of establishing fisheries along its coast, somewhat after the style of our nujdern M. P.'s obtaining North VV^est lands for the purpose of stock-raising, farming, diatiling, &c., «fec., to benefit the country at large. In the year 1713, and after a war of over two years' duration between France and England, the Treaty of Utrecht was entered into, and the Island began to be a .nettled Province, and I'ort Joy, now Charlottetown, was first founded by the French ; audit is claimed that in the year 1728 the }»(»pu- lation of the Island was about 3U0, and at the time of the Treaty of Fontainbleau, in the year 1763, the French had peopled the Island to the number of some 8000. In that year the Lsland was placed under the jurisdiction of the Governor of Nova Scotia, who had it surveyed and divided into sixty-seven townships or lots of some 20,000 acres each, which divisions still exist. At that tinus the British were intent upon extending their territory and planting colonies, so they started to give or grant to settlers, upon certain conditions, this fertile little Island ; but so numerous W3re the applicants that they organizt-d a lottery, and the Island, in the shape of prizes, was awarded to some sixty-seven lucky ones, or numbers. Of course, as a high- toned moral and Christian nation, she would not counte- nance such a proceeding at this day. The grants w«ire issued through Lord Campbell, Governor of Nova Scotia. Two I i 172 CANADA ; lots of 20,000 acres eacli were bestowed ii]>on fi.shin^' com- panies, and oik; lot of 0000 acn^.s was reserved fur tlie Kiiif,', thereby showing that he was not very ninhitioiis of owning much stock on this side of the Atlantic^ In 1770 the British Cloverninent, having no use for an Island so far froni its shores nuule a sejiarate Province of it, and allowed the Islanders to govern themselves, first ajuxtinting a governor to keep thera in the traces. l)Mririg the American war of independence this Island was often visited by privateers, letireH-dn Manpte, and othei- vess(ds in American service, and at times their visits were not with- out interest, es]iecially in tlie vicinity of Charlottetown, for not f)nly the Americans, but the Nova Scotians cast a longing eye in the vicinity of the Island, and at one time laid plans for its capture, but they fell through. On the north-western and west by southern j)ortions of the Islands are extensive sand bars that nuike it dangerous for a mariner to a|)])roach in too close a ]»roximity to its shores, The country has its mimic Up])er and Lower Houses of Parliament, ollicers, civil, State, and ecclesiastic, with its Lieut-Clovernor, judges, justices and other civic dignitaries too numerous to mention, who administer ])ublic attairs with an amount of dignity that is at once ludicrous and amusing, and it is certairdy a problem for the new arrival to solve h(jw so many officials exist when, ap]>areiitly, there are no ]»rivate citizens to supjwrt him, but 1 sujiposc they were all in the lobster factories or out fishing. The Island is a good ]dace to spend a few weeks and on little cash, but for a permanent residence and have to work for a living the •• Good Lord deliver us ! " In many of the harbors on both the northern and southern coasts are finely-fitted yachts be- longing to residents, and it seems strange that regJittas tliat , FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 173 havo Chivrlottetown or Stmnncrsidc for a terminal point uro not iiioH! frei'ly indnlpul in by Portlund, IJoston and Svw York, (lood defji-si-a Hsliinji can Ik* enjoyi'd at almost any Itointofl' its shores, and the snninier travt-Mer will ccitainlv tind it to his advantage to hurry through tlie rpiier Trovinces and spendafe.v pK-asant week.s iti this vicinity. To the northward of V. K. I. am situated the Mag- dah'U Islands, some seven in number; tlu^y are inhabited chictly by fishermen and those engaged in fishing and coaling interests, so although their homes seem bleak and desolate, still they enjoy in a comparative degree a sense of indejKindeuce, and a free,(M)0 inhabitants, and is built n|)on a rocky jx'ninsnla of very uneven ^^Toiiiid, .slojiinj^ from a eonlral rid<4e. A ^reat deal of labor has bct-n ('nijtloyed, and eajiital ex|iende(l, in enttiii}^ down the hills, and level- inj,' the strecits. The ])rinci|tal wharves, docks and ware- houses extend tt) the north and around the head of the basin, t(» within a sher })onils, booms and shijt yards, whic'n receive tlu; lindK-r floated down the river. 'y\n\ harbor of St. John is a safe one, but not very spai ions (ir ooiumodious, esjiecially at low water. From its .Jii!lllowIu^srt, and tlit^ strenj^th of the current, larj^e .ships ;4<»nerally enter the harlxtr on the top of the flood tidp, The tides rise somt^weuty-six feet ami, t here f(»r(*, {..Meat facilities are allbrded for n'pairin^' and la\mchim; vesstds : for tluriii^' the ebb the shores and a number of docks are left dry, but during the flood the harbor is easy of accesfl for tht^ larj^'cst ships, lait a strong; free wind is ne(!essary to enable sailinj^ vesstds to enter without the aid of a tow- Itoat. The approaches and the shoaU ar", "ivell marked and buuN euil'iiM<»s are suhstantiul, and ('((iiipare favorably with any in tlu; )»ro- vinces, whilst with the |)e(»i>le there is a kind of don't-care- a-cent, independent air, that is certaiidy refreshing', in re- lief to the manners of some of the cities in rjijter Canada. The Provimre of New lirunswick ischiidiy noted in hist»»ry from the eternal 'luarrellinj,' and tij^htin^' amon^^rst its early settlers to obtain j.os.session and a f(jothold for their res- pective t^overnmeiits. Unt d the ycfar I7H4 the colony of New Hrunswick ftrnu'd a poition of Arcadia or New France, and was considered a jiart of Nova Scotia. I )"iring tlie rei^Mi of Henry IV. a sjH'culator named i)e Mont.s made the third attempt at coloni/.ation in the province; he received from his soverei<,'ii almo.st uidimited powiirs and privih'f^es, titles and ]>atents of noliility that covered ioin- teen skins of parchment, and which took him three days to read in order to discover how j^reat ii man he really uas. His connnission endiraced all the territory from the 4iM,h to th( 4(tth de<.;ret north laliiude, or from lludson'.s I'.uy to X'ir^dnia; and he had the nionojxtly of the tiir trade (»ver all that tract of c(»iintiy then called New l-iance. 1'hose old kinj^'s ami potentates of Muropi' ceitainly ip in style wlu-n they liked to eniMiiira}.je a fa\orite, and were as liberal as our Paiiiaiuent to the Syndicate in ffivinijaway that which they hardly owned, but, at any rate, had no use for. De Monts was a Protest^mt, so he at oure boiiowed all the cashhecould from his friends to further his enterpri.su. History does not state that lie ever returned il, or even gave 178 CANADA ; I' luH iMito for it, got pcnnission to j^mvo his rolij^ioii a fair show, oil coiidiliou of his jiro\ jdiiij^ a few CuIIkiHc iiiis.sion- urics for llie conv«'i'.sior had recidveil, tradinj^ with the Indians, and at once asktid the p(jor ftdhnv to show his license, and Hossi<,fuol lufver haviii}^ heard of such an instrument or knowing what its virtue's Were, or even who had authority to issue such a tiling', sjMjkc; out truthfully, and said : "that he had one all ri^dil, hut h(( left it at home, for his wife to mak(! a hed ouilt out of; whcreup(»n I)e M(jnts infornu'd the liader that he was afraid he was prevaricating', for nolxjdy had uutlutrity to issue such thing's, except \)v Monts the (ireat. lie therefore imniediatidy seized the vessel and ;^((ods of the trader for I'/hnj, and hy their s;>lc cnahled lumscdf to carry out the Christian ctains \vere unac(juainted with the license (|ue,s(i()n, so, wilh tin' residts of the sjcils (apturcd from cnn settlers, w lien neither se\ n:)r age was spared from the tomahawk and scalping koih'. In the year ltJ2r», Charli's I. reniiwed a patent formerly granted by .lames 1., in th(! year lt)2l, to Sir William Alexander, in Mhich he gave away "all the C(tuntry fntm the St. Croix Ut the St. Lawrence," including "the whole course of the St. Law- rence to the (lulf of (Jalifornia," which included the whole of Canada and the chief j)art "f the I'nited States. An order of liaronets were created to luld jurisdiction over the country, and they solemnly asseml)led on the castle hill of Kdinburgh, Scothmd, to take legal possession and ruh- over a world unknown. Another instance of the bounty of a liV)eral monarch, .•jonic of the liaronets never even viaittid 180 CANADA ; 1 their jjosscssidtis that had l»oen so freely bestowed, hut those who did come found th(i French ahcady in possession, and not in the h;ast disposed to give up th(Mr possessions peaceahly . From that on at dilfereiit times there was notliin" hut jieriodic quarrelling and fighting U'tween the French and Kngi'sh settlers, hut the French, with the aid of the Priests, got a little ahead, for they ottered a ]»remium for their men to marry with the Micimacs and other tribes of Indians, and by a Frencihman marrying a s(juaw, and an Indian a French woman, tlusy made their interests mutual, and gained a savage ally in time of war, and also produced a tril)e of mongrels who nisidc* in the Province to this day. During tin; 17th century barbarities of the most horril)le descrij)ti()n were practised upon the rival settlers, ami when they could find no rivals to practice on they turned upon their own liountrymen, after the style of " Charnisse," of iVuiobscot, besieging Mailame Li Tour, on the St. John, but that woman fought him gallantly, and it was not until after several attacks iu diiferent years that he was enabled to subdue the lirave little Dame. The Province of New Brunswick extends nearly North and South, and lies k'tweeu 4."/ f)' and 48'' liO' N. lat., and Iween rival dice on style ( »f 'our, on , and it uM that North N. lat.. m irre- On the ;ulf of l.y the ulf ; 11 ul it is I'.ay of mt^iins liest in L diver- sn FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 183 sity in the apfx^rancc of the l*n»viii(;o : the lands on the wliole nortliern coast slope j^nulually down beneath the aeu ; the water is p-nerally shallow, and aloni,' the ocean bor- der there are hanks of sand and shin<,'le. The water in all the river channels is deep enoii^'h to admit the larj^est ships. On thrne alonu, am I aid in forininu the nlistrnction, whilst the inhaiiitants themselves, liavinji reached hi^dier ground, form interesting' };rou|»sas washe(|-out families. The suiface (tf New Ihunswick jtM'sents a confusion of heteid^'eiieous sulislances, hut it will he found upon in- S])eclion that not only the rocks hut the soils succeed each other in rcLjular rotation or strata : the rock itself is lirst seen jirniniding ihidu^h the soil or rising,' into mountiiin ranges, yet the action of heat, fi'ost, moisture, and other meteoric agents iii'e constantly reducing the flinty mass, and fornung a leilile soil w hidi, if not letained on the taltle lauds and slopes, is carried hy the torr^Mits down to the Milleys to render them more favorahle for agri(;ultuial purposes ; then come houlders and, succeeiling these, exten- sive \>i-As of giiivel, sand and clay, ahove which the soil, Vitiying in thickness, and dilVering only fiom the general deposit heneath in heiug reduced to a liner state, and hy containing remains of the vegetation that oni;e llourished upon it. The soil derived from trap rock contains much jiotash, and almost always produces hard wood, such as beech, hirch, maple, oak, ash and hutternut. (Jranite and syenite soil are als(» fav(»ritl)hf to those growths, hut where there is a sutlicient depth of earth, and the land is sandy, white and red jtine grow to a large; size; hut, owing to the incursions and ndds nuide ujion the timl)er of the province, in the course of a few years the sujijily will be i)r iimiiy s calUil ml wi(le» |1«'.H iiiul iii}^s are lilst the 11(1, fnllil fusion of upon in- '('»nl eat'h If is liist noiintaiu n %^\^<-^' v^.. %^ &. c^- t-?/ ^% ft' n f; /''M , iv '1 1 ■'. FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 187 thoroughly exhausted. The people of New Brunswick claim that their vegetables are the finest produced in America and they certainly have some grounds for that belief, although they have competitors in both Nova Scotia, Cape Breton and Prince Edward Island ; but their potatoes are as near perfection as can be found, and are both so delicious in flavor and mealy to look upon that would make the heart of an Irishman rejoice. Apples, turnips and hen fruit, (or eggs) are produced in great varieties. Many may dispa- rage the statements concerning the product of the fowl, but it is so — there are over sixteen varieties of aigs produced in this province. The climate differs but little from the province of Lower Canada; frost is seen some seven months in the year. In the summer twilight is seen after nine o'clock in tha evening, whilst daybreak occurs at two in the morning. The aurora boiealis is very brilliant at all seasons. The break-up usually occurs during April, and by May the weather becomes settled. It is still in tradition that, after the wizard was expelled from the Isle of Man, he came to New Brunswick and brought with him his art of covering the country with a fog in order to delude and befog his enemies. The climate is a healthy one, and without a doctor can get hold of a genuine Old Country patient, or invent some new disease, he has a hard row to weed to get a living. Most of the practitioners generally board around like a school-master, and look out for chances, such as broken legs and accidents to lumbermen or river drivers. Whilst one of the industries, like that of Quebec, is the making of maple sugar, from which occupation considerable revenue is derived by the inhabitants, it might become a source of profit, and quite health-giving for a company to w r 4 188 CANADA ; form in order to invite young Englishmen and Americans from the cities to take a trip to the province, in order to shoot moose, carriboo and deer, or trap for bear and beaver. There was a real Virginian deer seen here in 1818, and the skins of the other animals are valuable when obtained. Fishing, both lake and river, can be indulged in, with con- siderable success. Salmon are plentiful in most rivers, and rise freely at a proper fly, and will afford the angler admirable sport. Trout are numerous in almost all streams, and are taken by the children, with a baited hook, fas- tened to a piece of twine on the end of a light pole. The best fly to fish with is the red hackle, and the weight of the fish is from a half pound to six pounds. The Tobique, Aroostook, Miramichi, Nepisiquit, Upsalquitch, and Resti- gouche are the best rivers for sport. Salt-water fislieries have always been a source of revenue and income to the province, but, through the enterprise and energy of the Americans, the " Brunswickers " are being rapidly crowded out, and their industry monopolized — mackerel, herring, gaspereau and cod, being the chief kinds sought, and this industry alone gives employment to some thousands of men. The boats employed are well fitted, staunch and sea- worthy, and on leaving are filled to the hatches with salt, em I ties and provisions. Along the deck are empty puncheons and casks, whilst for each man six mackerel lines completely fitted, are attached to the stanchions in the bulwarks. The hooks-used are about the size of salmon hooks, with a jig or bright piece of metal, which in the water, resembles the sepia. Nets are sometimes used. When in with a " school " herring and other fish, pork, old rags, red shirts, and other materials, are thrown into a bait mill and ground up, the inside of the mill containing '■\.t '■:\» FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 189 he 3d. ng a revolving set of "sharp knives, and the product, upon being turned out, is something like putrid sausage meat — this is called poheeganor squash — and, when signs are on, a hogshead of this mixture is thrown overboard, and the mackerel rise in shoalp, covering at times the surface of the water for miles, and for hours afterwards all hands are actively employed in hooking, jigging and drawing in the fish. Then, all of a sudden, as if by magic, the fish disappear, and the vessel has to move to new grounds. The Americans have got the science of fishing down so fine that they can come into the ports of the provinces, and sell fish, at a profit to themselves, at less figures than a native can afford to catch them for. The inhabitants of the coasts and islands engage in the different employments of agriculture, fishing and lumbering, therefore they can- not devote their attention entirely to one pursuit. In conclusion, I would advise the traveller to devote some time in exploration of the province, for he will find it both an interesting and instructive pursuit. EDUCATION AND COMMERCE. There is no doubt but that the various educational, literary, historical and other societies and institutions, with the museums, art and geological societies, have done more in effecting a thorough reform in the habits of the people, and of educating the masses to a better knowledge of them- selves and their fellow men, than the outward followers of the forms of Christianity are willing to acknowledge or ad- mit, for where there is education amongst the masses and a thorotigh knowledge of their fellows, there also is charity, the greatest of the christian virtues, not in theory, but in practice, and it is my humble opinion that were these insti- IP c/ll 190 CANADA ; V ' tutions more liberally encouraged and fostered in our midst, the time would not be far distant when at least tluee- fourtlis of the various preachers' services could be eo.sily dispensed with, to the benefit and welfare of the entire community, and the country at large. The fault has often been laid to misrepresentation of the country that has retarded its growth, and that the climate has been maligned, that its severe and protracted winters have been thoroughly exposed and ir-'iown up, and its summers have been quoted for their intense heat, but with all that, they seem to have lost sight of the fact that it is not the rigors of climate that retard emigration and the peopling of the country, but the excessive individualism of those already here, for whilst one section of the community use every endeavor to build up into a prosperous condition the country at large, the greater portion, with men in power to aid them, seem to be intent, for present gain or advantage, to pull down or render subservient to their will the interests of the whole commu- nity. It is only the education which these institutions can afford that will become the medium of enlightening the people, and remove far from them the narrow sectarianism and jealousies that now exist. Amongst the earliest of these various societies scattered now happily throughout the Dominion was the Mechanics Institute of Montreal, founded in the year 1828, at which time it was called the Montreal Mechanics Institution, and confirmed under that name until 1835. The present Institute was formed in 1845, the corner stone of the building was laid some ten years afterwards by the Hon. Mr. Justice Badgley, Q.C., and he carried frills enough with the name to ensure success, for he was M. P. P., Eight Wor. Prov. G. M. of F. & A. M. of B. :5f. A. FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 191 Amongst ^uusm these It the itreal, id the that 11845, I years [id he iS, for M. those who earliest recognizod the henefit of educating the masses in the most common-sense way, we find the names of H. Buhner, G. W. Weaver, N. B. CoTse, G. Cruikshank, R. Irwin, II. Munroe, I). Brown and others, who have all heen actively and earnestly engaged in benefiting their fellow men, and trying to implant in the worker the feeling that he is a thinking and reasonable being, and so far their efforts seem crowned with success, for at the present time the library contains some 8707 volumes, whilst the circulation during the year 1880 was some 14,296. Financially the effort is a success, doubtless in part owing to the untiring zeal manifested by the Super- intendent, Mr. S. M. Sansum, who has been actively en- gaged in sufiplying mental food to his fellow men for a period extending over nineteen years in the present Institute. Whilst such institutions were gradually disseminating knowledge amongst the communities in which they were located, there were still another class of men who were actively engaged in enlightening the countrymen generally in the mysteries of trade, and giving on each visit some insight into the mode of carrying on business in other sec- tions, and these were the commercial travellers, a class that the country in general owe considerable to, as an aid to its prosperity. In 1873 the total value of imports of the Dominion was some $68,522,776, whilst in 1877 it was but $39,572,239, being a falling off during those years of $28,950,521, but with increased prosperity of the South and West, and the activity displayed on part of the merchants and their commercial representatives throughout the country, the total imports for the year 1880 amounted to $86,489,747, showing an increase in three years of $46,917,508, of which P. E. I. was credited with 192 CANADA ; $200,462.49 ; Nova Scotia, $1,245,910. 42 ; New Bruns- wick, $893,809.52; Ontario, $5,113,238.51 ; Quebec, $6,048,621.57; Manitoba, $298,929.15 ; N. W. Terri- tories, $21,856.38 ; and British Columbia, $455,986.70. Whilst the total exports from the Dominion in 1873 amounted to $87,750,592, in 1877 the monetary value was $70,907,303, which in 1880 had risen to $82,918,828, and will,with an equal amount of energy displayed.by far exceed those figures during the present year. Although each city from the Lower to the Upper Provinces seems to send its representatives to assist in procuring trade, still the spirit evinced by some of them in the Lower Provinces, through the medium of narrow and sectional legislation, seems to be a despicable one, and shows that, although willing to gain all for their own advancement, still they concede nothing, and by these means encourage a system of rivalry that cannot but be detrimental to their own interests in the end ; — so it is that, in order to break up to some extent the sectionalism, and to render interests mutual and for the benefit of the whole country, the various C. T. Associations have commenced to foster a spirit of liberality, and, as these institutions are productive of considerable good, we will notice some of their features. It is well known that travelling men generally are a good-natured, sociable set of men at home in any community and under all circumstances in which they may find themselves placed, sociable, generous sometimes even to a fault, with an eye to business and the establishing of a good name and repu- tation for the firm in whose employment they are. The knowledge of these facts being soon known throughout the country the unfortunate traveller becomes the victim of every imposition that avarice or cupidity could suggest, or FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 193 •put in practice. Not only were impositions practised upon these enterprising men throughout the country, but some few men in whose employ they happened to b« (fortunately so few in number as not to constitute a distinct class) thought the seemingly happy and careless fellows legitimate prey, and did not hesitate, under various guises, to appro- priate the mere pittance promised their representative for faithful service, thus at times forcing him to work for nothing. Some of such employers were outwardly supposed to be men of high social or moral status, but, having ac- quired money, were willing yet to grovel amongst the mud and ashes from whence they arose. With a view of Temedying to some extent these evils and impositions, and also to better protect the interests of the traveller as a class, an association was formed in the year 1865 for the furtherance of this object. Amongst the earliest workers we find R. C. Simpson, now Secretary of the D. C. T. A., Montreal, R. Cuthbert, and others ; but it was not until the year 1872 that the C. T. A. of Canada was thoroughly formed or assumed any proportions. At that time Mr. War- ring Kennedy was elected President, and Mr. J. Patterson •Secretary, with two Vice-Presidents and a board of Direc- tors, comprising twenty btisiuesa men throughout the ecome a citizen, but when the stranger arrives in Canada he is literally frozen out, even the religious community, joining in the belief that, to assist the new comer to obtain a foot-hold, would not be " business," for fear he would become independent l)oth in thought and action. It is somewhat remarkable to notice how closely in all respects the lands of the far North West resemble those of the far South on the Northern Continent of America, oi. the country bordering on the Arctic circle becomes a coun- terpart of that portion lying near the etjuator. The same barren stretches of everlasting sand; the tangled cypress > undergrowths and swamps, amid whose precincts frogs; abound in myriads and keep up a continuous concert: some* emit sounds like hammering on thin tin, others seem tC'.r mimic the hoot of the owl, others squeak, whilst above all', the hoarse basso prof undo of the genuine bullfrog makes itself heard, and lets folks know " he's thar." They and the wild fowl that frequent the locality in the spring and fall with the squirrels, and seem to be the only denizens of these vast tracts, the knotted everglades, the strips of fertile and productive soil, with the salt marshes and salt springs-, that at some future time will, no doubt, become a source of revenue, and with the assistance of Artesian wells (should pure and drinkable water be found in their vicinity) may become the means of attracting quite a little community of settlers for the development of the iudustry of salt, evaporation and export. The mountain ranges and broken- ground all have their fac-similes above lat. 50° N., and below lat, 34*^. N., therefore the commercial interests-, of both these extreme sections are to all intend ^ and purposes identical; the seasons in the southern portions. f'H' '• 198 CANADA ; being neither so severe, nor yet so limited in duration, although more prone to enervating fevers, than those of the far North, but where frost is seen almost every night in the year, and ice forms in August, the constitution and frame must be one of iron in order to withstand its rigors. It will therefore become a matter for deep and earnest thought and consideration to the intendent citizen, whether he be from the provinces or from the older countries, to fully 'determine how and where to select his place of destination, for a mistake at the start to a man of family may be fatal to the energies of a lifetime ; therefore very little heed should be paid to the agents of large corporations, who for the most part have little interest in promoting the welfare of the new comer, and whose chief aims are to get settlers located on the lands represented by themselves, and to receive their salary and commission, sometimes earning it at the expense of the lifetime happiness of those whom they have induced to come. That the older countries and Canada are to attempt a governmental organized system of emigration," in order to colonize the far west with perma- nent settlers, seems to be a conceded fact, but after offer- ing, perhaps, superior inducements for a while, whether the Bureau will not degenerate into a mere political machine, yet remains to be seen. It is therefore probably far tlie best course to pursue in determining a location, to obtain and act upon advice from parties directly residing in the •district desired, and to rely more thoroughly on the state- ments of extensive property owners, who at once become neighbors, and who represent the interests of the whole community. Should the citizens of the upper and lower provinces become more liberal in their views on the ^encouragement, and welcome the new arrival to a home in FROM THE LAKES TO THE GULF. 199 their respective provinces, no doubt it would not only re- 'dound to the benefit of the community, but assist materially in adding to the wealth of the province itself; whilst on the other hand citizens leaving the older portions for the West would at once be climated, and with a knowledge of the obstacles to be met and overcome. In many portions of New Brunswick, Quebec, along the banks of the St. Law- rence and the Ottawa rivers, and in the province of Ontario are opportunities offered to the settler and investor which .in many respects are unrivaled, but a spirit of pride in "being an American will have to be first evinced, and the spirit of jealousy and sectionalism obliterated, before any .great influx of either capital or labor can be induced to assist in building up the prosperity of a section, or in working altogether in the interests of the country. It was the intention to include some anecdotes on the freaks of Canadian justice, some of the beauties of the mercantile and other systems of agencies, together with .some of the idiosyncrasies of their public characters, but wait until better accquaintance enables me to speak with ^accuracy and having the notes. I would say to my readers that, should they be pleased with this effort don't laugh Aloud, until you read " Canada and its Servants, " or Public men vs. the Country. The book will be published this Tall (D. V.) r.'t(' I THE CONTIMEKT m Hi'"'- fAT'it;( BUKWA '■'A ,15V FROM THE POLE TO PANAMA. 201 CAMPBELL'S MMm kw Still maintains its high reputation as a faithful prepara- tion of Quinine, combined with pure wine and vegetable aromatics. IT HAS BEEN PEOVED AN INVALUABLE EEMEDY # IN CASES OF LOSS OF APPETITE, DYSPEPSIA, LOWNESS OF SPIRITS, INDIGESTION' and for the prevention of malarial diseases in low-lying and agueish parts of the country. Many poor and cheap imitations are in the market, but the above is the original and genuine, having had a steadily increasing sale for more than twelve years. IT MAY BE HAD AT -^ AND ITS BRANCHES : Phillips SquARE ^ Windsor^ Motel; AND WHOLESALE FROM Kenneth Campbell & Co.^ 134 St* Francois Xavier Sty MONTREAL. w^ m r4, 202 I •■.,11 ' ,i( OOMINION LINE OF STEAMSHIPS Eunning in Connection with the aBAND TRUNK RAILWAY OF CANADA. Company's Fleet. Sabnia 3,850 Brooklyn 3,575 Toronto 3,284 Dominion 3,175 Tbutonia 2,700 QPBBBC 2,600 Company's Fleet. Obboon 3,850 montrkal 3,284 Ontario 3,175 Tbias 2,750 Mississippi 2,600 St. L0DI8 2,000 Sailing between Liverpool, Quebec and Montreal in Summer, and Liverpool, Halifax and Portland, in winter, calling at Belfast on the passage from LiTerpool. Cabin Passage Tickets $50.00 Return 90.00 Steerage Passage Tickets from Liverpool 24.00 Children under 12 years, Half Fare ; under 1 year Free. PREPAID STEERAGE CERTIFICATES To bring passengers from principal points in Great Britain, Ireland, and all parts of Europe, to any important Railway Station in Canada, dr the United States, at the Lowest possible Rates. Through Tickets can be had at all the principal Grand Trunk RiUlway Ticket Offices in Canada, and through Bills of Lading are granted to and from all parts of Canada. For Passage Tickets or Rates of Freight Apply in Liverpool to Messrs. Flinn, Main & Montgomery, Managing Director, 24 James St. ; ia Lon- don, Gracie & Hunter, 96 Leadenhall St. ; in Belfast, Henry Gowan, 29 Donegal! Quay ; in Queenstown, John Daw- son & Co. ; in Glasgow, Robert Duncan & Co, 97 Union St. ; in Lon- donderry, Frederick Dawson, 42 Foyle St. ; in Bristol, John Andersont 146 Victoria St. ; in Cardiff, Richard Benjatoin, 14 Trinity St. ; in Toronto, G. W. Torrance, 65 Front St. East ; in Quebec, W. M. Mac pherson, Peter St. ; or to any Grand Trunk Railway Agent. David Torrance Sl Co., GENERAL AGENTS, 8 HOSPITAL ST., MONTREAL. 203 THE MOST HOMELIKE, COMFORTABLE AND WELL APPOINTED HOTEL IN THE DOMINION, The St. Lawrence Hall 3,850 3,284 3,175 2,750 2,600 2.000 , and laRing U St. ; Daw- i LoB- ersoni ; in Mac- ;al. ST. I^AWnSKdK BAt.1.. HEITRT EOQAir, FROFEIETOP, St. James Street, Montreal, F.Q., Canada. For Merchants, Travellers and Business Men, this noted Hotel is most admirably situated, next to the Banks, Post Office, and within a block to the " Notre Dame .thedral ". Whilst for Summer Travellers and Tou- rists the view from its roof, windows and verandahs lays the whole citj «nd the majestic St. Lawrence river at their feet, with the famed Mount Royal as a relief. In former days this hotel was preferred by Royalty, and since the acquirement of the property by Mr. Hocran the hotel has been put into thorough order, and every improvement that skill can suggest added. Its musical and parlor entertainments, together with the excellence of its cuisine, make it the favorite with all. Mr. Sam. Montgomery, well and favorably known in the West, takes the entire management, so visitors, whether from Europe or California Labrador or Texas, are assured of a thorough and hearty welcome. CHARGES MODERATE. Special arrangements for families and visitors remaining ,., • bu the month. -'•^- PROPRIETOR. Intending visitors from Europe should send Postal Card bejfore sailing, to ensure being met on arrival, and all difficulties regarding baggage, .etc., will be attended to. I'.. 204 t VISITORS kHD TRiVCUERS, Whether from the United States or Europe, should not fail^ wliilst in Montreal, to call at the old stand of S^W«f«WM#@« % ii^ Corner Notre Dame & Peter streets, ••■>V h'M'-i n'li'' 1 MONTREAL, CANADA. MANUFACTURERS OF OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS. Have constantly in stock and on hand Coat8> Saqnes, Fur- Lined Circulars, Caps, Qanntlets and ......,,.__ , Fancy Bobes. Visitors should bear in mind that this is the cheapest market in which to purchase furs, &c., in the Dominion of Canada. Orders received both from home and abroad, and entire satis- faction guaranteed. R. W. COWAN & CO., MONTREAL 205 S, >t failr 5, eets, 'Ut5, and larket satis- LEAU ■mauii. CANADA SHIPPING COMPANY. (Running in Connection with the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada.) This Line is composed of the following First Glass Clyde-built Iron Steamships, built in Water tight Compartments, and unsurpassed for strength and comfort : Lake Huron, 4,100 tons Capt. Lake Winnipeg, 3,300 tons Capt. W. Bkrmsom. Lake Manitoba, 3,300 tons Capt. G. B. Scott. Lake Champlain, 2,300 tons Capt. W. Stbwart. Lake Nepigon, 2,300 tons Capl. H. Campbell. The Steamships of this Line are all of large carrying capaoity, will insure at lowest current rates, hare superior accommodation for passengers and will sail from Liverpool for Quebec and Montreal every THURSDAY, aad from Montreal for Liverpool every WEDNESDAY. RATES OF PASSAGE. C A BLV.— Montreal to Liverpool $50.00, return $9000. ^ STEERAGE.— At lowest current rates. Through Bills of Lading and Tickets are issued to and from all parts of Canada and the Western States. For Freight and other particulars apply in Liverpool to the Canada Shipping Co , 21 Water St., in Glasgow to P. Rixtoul, Son k Co. ; in London, to R Mo-vtoombiue, 82 Mark Lane ; ia Caaada at al I the Offices ^f the Grand Trunk Ry., or to THOMPSON, MURRAY AGO., 1 CUSTOM HOUSE SQUARE, niONTREAIi. If ^1' 206 k s-^;^£^«M«^<«,-«i». j^svvB^H*' X » «Jw..,.- SHERBROOKE, P.Q. Proprietor. ." This hotel, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Magog, and St. Francis rivers, is one of the finest and best conducted hotels in the Eastern Tonwships, is also in the centre of business and in close proximity to the Post Office, Banks and City Hall. For Summer tourists and visitors generally it has advan- tages that few hotels in the Dominion can offer. The view of the Falls from its balconies, and the murmuring of the rapids, which in the course of half a mile fall some 119 feet, both surprise and please the visitor, and create a feeling of forgetfulness in the mind that is not soon obliterated, and aid in making this a most desirable house in which to sojourn. Commercial travellers always welcome. Good sample rooms and special facilities offered. ' . ' t~j Special rates by the month. Free Omnibuses meet all trains on arrival. Lirery in connection. 207 ii. .0 :or, Magog, iucted asiness i Hall, advan- muring le 119 :ling of aid in sample GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. THE GREAT INTERIATIOIil ROUTE BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC. THK^OTJO-H TIOKIETS TO AND FROM QIJEBBC, PORTIiAND, NEW YORK. nONTRBAL, BOSTON, KINGSTON, GUBLPH. TORONTO, SARNIA, LONDON, DETROIT, CHICAGO, TEXAS, KANSAS, and SAN PRANCISCO*^ AND THE NORTH-WEST TERRITORIES. Close Connection made at Chicago, Detroit and Buffalo for varioue routes to the East and West, also via Montreal and the Victoria Bridge for Eastern States and . Lower Provinces. BLEOANT DINING CARS ARE RUN ON THIS ROUTE. NO CHANGE VIA THIS ROUTE BETWEEN MONTREAL AND CHICAGO. THE ONLY LINE RCNNING Pullman Palace Drawing Room and Sleeping Cars Through to Chicago, without change. The Great Excursion Route during the Summer season in connectioo with the Richelieu and Ontario Line of Steamers from NIAGARA FALLS, Or Kin^^ston down the Far-Famed St. Lawrence Rapids, passinff the Vic toria Bridge fur Montreal, Quebec, th« Saguenay, Wnite Mountains, Lakes Champlain and George, and the Hudssn River to New York. Passengers to Manitoba and the North-West Territories, via Sarnia and the Lakes, sr via Chicago and Milwaukee, also for all points in Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Illinois, Indiana, Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, Texas, and the Pacific Coast, will find this the most pleasant and direct route. Every facility afforded for through tickets at the most favorable fares. BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH. Steel Rails, First-CIasB Rolling Stock, Courteous Employees, and every facility afforded. W. 'WAIN'WRiaHT, Qenl. Pms. Agent, Montreal. JOSEPH HICK80N, General Manager. ,.*: '¥ 11 ■ ■■% ■t m 208 SEIIiTID FOI?/ Su^nv^I^LES 1 «»» ■ For sale by all dealers in Leather and Findings, Hardware, and Boots and Slices. tSfOnly reqaires three lizes for all heiKhts of heels for Men's, Boys' and Ladies Boots and Shoes. Ne. 1 is used only on Ladies' and Children's Shoes, or low Shoe Heels. iyNo.2 IS THK SIZE MOSTLY USED, AND MEETS THE DEMAND OF NEARLY ALL HEIGHTS OF HEELS ON MEN'S AND BOYS' BOOTS. No. 8 is used only on Extremely High Heels. T. €. moss. Sole Manufr.cturer ; SUFEBIOB TO ALL OTHEBS i ■ FOR THE FOLLOWING REASONS : First.— It has double the support on the top where the pressure oomes on the 'Counter in walking. Second.— It has a long screw slot, to admit of placing the screw in the centre of any of the lifts in the heel, instead of between tnem, where a simple screw hole would compel them to be placed. Third.— It does away with the necessity of dealers keeping six or eight sizes in order to supply the demand for the different heights of heels. Fourth.— A very important feature of this support is the FLANGE which ex- tends under the bottom of the heel, and iiistens down through it, therpby making it impossible to become loose by rough use. When the flange is entirely worn off oy long use, the support may still be h«ld firmly in its place oy placing another screw in the bottom of the screw-slol. «AIIIPI«E BOXES seat to the Trade on Receipt of ONE DOL- LAR* Oood OUconnts Klven to the Wholesale Trade. ';^ Crlre them a Trial, and I am sure yon will n«e ao ^' other support. Address all orders to SEND FOR PRICE LIST. T. C. MOSS, Windsor, Out. Htitt ttti - MANUFACTURED BY - T. C. H088, WIIB80R, OHT. ' Warranted to keep the COUNTERS AND HEELS OF BOOTS AND SHOES FROM RUNNING 0]/ER, i. \NILL NOT COME LOOSE BY WEARING. 209 ID OF :lurer? on the antre of hole sizes in iDOL- le. Ont. OTTAWA THE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT OF THE DOMINION. Travellers, Tourists and Canadians Generally should remember that the famed Russell House is now undergoing extensive alterations, and when the new addition is complete will be one of the most RECHERCHE HOUSES IN IHE DOMINION, Fitted with every improvement that Art or Science can suggest^ making it at .once the most desirable and most comfortable in Canada Cool, Neat and Comfortable Booms- COISINE THE BESTTBE COONTRY AFFORD, Whilst ite appointments are strictly firat-cloBB, A Genial Host, who anticipates the wants and needs of its guests. In <. iDse proximity to the Houses of Parliament and Business Centres of the city. LOVELY DBIVSS> FINE SCENSB7, AND GOOD aBOUNDS FOB BECBEATION, NEAB AT HANS. An excellent Livery in connection with the Hotel. J. A. GOUIN. Proprietor. No inconvenience to guests whilst improvements are being added. International Postal Cards will always receive prom ft attention. rt V I ']^altttt^a'$ ^taitt(a)!il ^ooilt. lit . ' . 1 i.li4 ,)r A t',, i IJ ■'!...■ . .I .'"i n ^'OLIWKA'S IMPERIAL BORAX IS GOOD FOR WASHING AND STARCHING, BATHING and SHAMPOOING, ROUGH PACE AND CHAPPED HANDS. CLEANING THE TRBTH, CLEAN- ING HAIR BRUSHES, DRESSING ULCERS, CUTS, WOUNDS, 80RRS of any kind, Bruises, Abrasion of the skin, Piles, Sore Nipples, Ac, SORB MOUTHS— Gum Itoils, Thrush, Hoarseness, Dryness in the Mouth, DISINFECTING PURPOSES, ARRESTING FERMENTATION, REMOVING COCKROACHES, Ants and other Vermin, PREVENTING M0TH8, REMOVING STAINS from Marble. WASHING WINDOWS, 4/ ^.u„w ..iMILK CANS, GREASV DISHES, Ac, Ac, jui. ; .! ( fr,.y it a^^^i |,g Convinced! Ask your Grocer or Chemist for ^ ., POLIWKA»S IMPERIAL BORAX, »nd don't allow other doubtful makes to be palmed off on you. If yoar Orooer or Cbemiat do not keep it, please give them our address, and oiblige ;/vri rnn 'i.i' . Your owdLeut Servants, ' :, , v ! EMIL POLIWKA A CO., 32 34 A 36 ST. S ACRAMENT STREET, MONTREAL. POLIWKA'S IMPERIAL BORAX, Is now widely known all through Canada, and a Staple . .. .'I . ,.■. Article with Grocers and Druggists. This most important Household article, whose excellent q[ualitiea were «onl|>aratively unknown to the public at large until it was introduced by the undersigned, has now found its way into thousands of Canadian homes, and those who bare used it will not do without it, as it soon sares its cost in many ways. ». JOH N- , ke., ih, your blige 1 aple were jdbj >mes, cost 211 Pulrerited Boras if often Adulterated with alum, sair or other iom« clients. The underBl^ned hag called his Borax " Impirial/' as it is the beat Kmolibh Borax which can be produced^— better than most American •makes, and to assure the public that it is buying a pure article, ho baa bad it analysed by Dr. John Bakir Bdwardh, Public Analyst, whose cer- tificate reads : I hereby certify that I hare analysed the Imperial Borax as imported ia ■crystals, as ground in bulk, and, also, as put up in packages by Bmil Poliwka, and I find the same to be will RiriNin and i'ukr Borax, and well adapted for the rarioua purposes for which it is recommended. (Signed,) John Bakir Eoward», Ph.D., D.C.L., Pro/emor Practical C/umittry, If.B.C , and Public Analytt, HotUretU. I Montreal, May 10, 1878. The high price at which Powdered Borax has been formerly gold, hag kept it from coming into general use, but since the Imperial Borax has entered the Canadian market, it hag come within the reach of all. 12 OB. packages retail at 26 Gents. 6 " " 16 *' And to give those who are unacquainted with the article au opportunity to try it, there are sample packages retailing at 5 cents, so that no one need be without it. Full direelionx in Englith and French are enclosed in each package, r ITS USES. Two ounces of the Iupbrial Borax will go further as a cleansing and bleaching agent than one pound of soda, ammonia, or washing powder, and it does not in the slightest degree injure any texture of cloth, which is a striking contrast to the affecta of ammonia and some other detergenta furnished by the Trade. Having for many years sold Gelatine in bulk and in one pound pack- ages, we have often been asked by the Grocery Trade why we did not give the Public a Gelatine in a more convenient shape, of say one and two ounce packages. Seeing that there was an increaging demand for'theae goods, we have set to work to get up a Gklatine which in quality is equal to, and in style and get up handsomer than, anything in the market. We trust that our efforts will be crowned with succesa, and that t« l» .^»'' will indeed become a favorite Gelatine with the Public. We are at present putting up two sizes, " one quart,' ' and " two quarts,' ' and two styles, " Ground " and m " Shreds." Our wrappers will be uniform in get up, only the sides of the packages will difibr m having the words "Gronnd," and "In Shreds" plainly printed on them. The "Ground" will be preferred by many on account of its dissolving quicker than the other. ' . ASK YOUR GROCER FOR IT I ""► T^W h l^ 212 .:m i- V THE MES8EN6EB The facilities now possessed by Thb NescEnger Office for the execution of '"Book kud Jot) f^fintin^ ARE UNSURPASSED. ^1 *; Vi ^' i V jni Pare Drugs, at moderate prices. Surgical Instruments and Books supplied. Our Order departmenf includes erery thing in our line, and receives close attention. GHABLE8 J. HTNB§, 48 Ford Street, Eagle Block. Pruprietor, Ogdensburg, New York, U.S. or And » ellent bf the her. lerate Imenf lietor. 213 THE CREAT WESTERI RilLWAT IS TBI MOST DIRECT ROUTE FROM CANADA TO MI Points in tbe Eastern and Western States, AND TBI FOPULAB HianWAT TO MANITOBA AMD THl North West Territories. ffixperieneed Agents sent in charge of large parties to attend to passing and clearing of passengers' efFecta through Customs. Passengers ftcji Europe ria New York h«ye an opportanity of viewing from Qreat Western Railway trains the world, famed Falls of Niagara. Through Palace Sleeping Gar between Boston, New York, Rochester, Detroit and Chicago, and elegant dar Coaches and Sleeping Cars between Suspension Bridge and Chicago. LUXURIOUS TRAVELLING. Dining Gars replete with all the delicacies of the season are attached to Atlantic and Pacific Express trains and run daily between SUSPENSION BRIDGE AND CHICAGO. Passengers taking this route hare choice of the Rail Lines ria Chicago, 'the old and reliable Detroit Grand Haren and Milwaukee ria Grand Harea, •crossing Lake Michigan in the new and commodious side wheel steamer, ^'CiTT or MiLWACKia," or the boat lines learitig Sarnia, Southampton and -Kincardine during season of Narigation. RATES THE VERY LOWEST. For Time Tables. Ac., apply to Company's Station Masters and Agents, who will furnish fullest iniormation. lOr Don't forget to see that your ticket reads ria the Great Western •Railway. T^M. BDOAit, F. BROUOHTON, Oen. Pans. Agt Gen. Manager. p mmm iffi'^.f 214 7HE QUEEN'S, TORONTa. McGfAW & WINNETT, PnoFEiETORS^ The " Queen's " is the most comfortable and Recherche Hotel in the Dominion. Overlooking the Lake it commands a beautiful view of To- ronto Bay and Lake Ontario. It is elegantly fur- nished throughout. Rooms en suite with bath rooms attached. All its APPOINTMENTS ARE STRICTLY FIRST-CLASS. The Hotel has been patronized by Royalty on each visit from 1871, when it was selected by His Imperial Highness the Grand Duke Alexis and suite. It was the favorite of His Excellency the Earl of Dufferin, K. P., Governor General of Can- ada, and the Countess of Dufferin, on their visits to Toronto. His Excellency the Marquis of Lome and Princess Louise with Prince Leopold and suite invariably honor the Hotel with their presence while in the City. Spacious and Airy Grounds with Chevalerie and Croquet Lawns, &c. 215 ST. LAWRENCE ENGINE WORKS, BASIN No. 2, LACHINE CANAL, AND 17 TO 99 MILL STREET, MONTREAL, W- P- BARTLEY & CO-. PROPRIETORS. r Builders of Steam Engines and Boilers, Ho- rizontal High Pressure Engines, Condensing Engines, Compound Engines of great economy. Any of the aborcj^suitable for factories, Screw Propellers or Paddle Steamers. The best heavy Castings for Engine Work, Work er A r c h i- tectura ' purpo- Seii:. ine SPECIALTIES. Shafting with Charlton's Patent Internal Clanap Couplings. Turbine Water Wheels of the most improved class for efficiency and gre»t power. Tery superior Propeller Screws. Yacht Engines and Boilers. Dredge- Machinery and Railway Excavators. Iron Bridges and every deBcription oi Contractor's Plant. SEND FOB CmCXTLARS. "pT Si'i „,„;.r><.: t ^^i ^ 216 f Ii« Qadini's Royal, HOOAW & WnnTETT, PAOPBIETOBS The moat delig^htful lummer resort on the borders of the Lake, aitnated in the qaaint old fashioned Tillage of Niagara. QUIET AND PEACEFUL SURROUNDINGS away from the bustle of the world, Oood Fishing, Yachting, Fine Drives and Pleasant Bambles can be indulged in. Pamilief and others wishing a pleaaant summer residence cannot select » more desirable locality. TECUMSEH HOUSE McGaw Winnett & Moore, «^ v proprietors. THE FINEST HOTEL in WESTERN ONTARIO. Excellent Accommodation for TRAVELLERS AND COMMERCIAL MEH. FIRST-CLASS IN EVERT RESPECT. M^ Lirerj attached to the House. 217 LIO. J! S. HiHILTOI & CO? MONTREAL. ;■)(?: HAMILTON, DUNLOP & CO., IIs^IPOI^TEie^S OIF, .,^ Pine BrandieS' Champagnes* SurgundieS) EockS' Moselle and Light Winea. Boll and Duelop Gin> Bass & Co.'s Pale Ale- Goods Sold either in Bond or Duty Paid. Sole Agents for Pelee Island "Wines. The best nittive «till Wines from Vin "Villa Vineyards. Native Sparkling Wines, Sans Pabeil and Le Diamand . Tt^^ Orders from a distance promptly attended to. APPOLINARIS AND OTHER NATURAL MINERAL WATERS. XK)LE AQSNT FOB TUBNSBS BIPTSBS. : J. S. HAMILTON & CO , St. Sacrament Street, MOMTRBAIi. i ^4 218 l':^-J: OTTAWA RIVER NAYI6ATI0N CO. S'V MAIL LINE DAY STEAMERS BETWKEK MONTREAL AND OTTAWA. Picturesque Scenery. Well-appointed Steamers. Favorite Route for Tourists. steamer for OTTAWA leaver Lachine on arrival of train which teaves Bonaven- tiire Depot at 7 a. m. daily. Fare from Montreal 1st Claw, $2.50 ; return, S4.00. Tliifl Is the mdkt direct of any route for Paggengers totheCelebiated Caledonia Springs. Steamer leaves Queen's wharf, OTTAWA, daily, at 7 a.m., with passengers for Montreal, RUNNING THE LACHINE RAPIDS. Short Excursions from Montreal retnming Down the Bapids (In the Cool of the Erening.) To ST. ANNE'S by train at 9 30 a.m. or 12.30 p.m. daily (and 2 p.m. on Satur- days) returning by Steamer at 4 p.m. Fare for round trip, 80 cents. ToCABILLON 50 miles up the river Ottawa, beautifully situated at foot of Rapids. Talce Tarn, train for LacMne, to connect with Steamers, arriving in M entreat about 6 20 p . m . Fare for roun d trip from Montreal $ 1 .26 Saturdays 91 .00. To LACHINE by 6 p.m. train, HOME by the RAPIDS, fare for round trip 50 cts. To OTTAWA by Rail, returning next day by Rail or Steamer, this allowing half day to visit the Parliament Buiidingii, Jkc. "Tickots for sale at Rai) way Offices. Hotels and Company's Office, 13 Bonaventure St., Montreal ; R. C. W. MacCuaig's Office Sparks street and Queen Wharf, Ottawa. B. W. SHRPHEBD. > I I > * 219 J. B. Cartwright & Co.y IMPORTERS OF High Class Wines and Spirits, &c.,&c., 416 ST. PAUL STREET, MONTREAL VISITORS AND TOURISTS Should remember that the duties on European Fine Wines and Li|nors in Canada are but one half the amount paid to the U. S Therefore whilst in Mon- treal, do not fail to inspect the fine assortment of goods kept by the above well-known house. Our list comprises the Best Brands of Sherries, Bordeaux Forts, CSiampagnes, Moselles, Hocks>. BURGUNDIES, LIQUEURS, &c., «cc. m*-^-*^ Acting as Sole Agents for Quf.tton St. George dr» Co., we are enabled to place before the public the choicest and best selections from the European markets. SOLE AGENTS FOR Ind Coope & Co., Burton Ales, Qlencoe Scotch Whiskey,. Bethesda Mineral Water, &c., &c. Travellers and Summer Visitors "Will find -we aim to please. Our stock is of the- best, "Whilst the choice of selection is in tho- roughly competent hands. J. B. CABTWRIGHT & CO. mwp VISITORS FROM THE Froms, UiM States, tie North West or lirope, Should bear in mind that Clothing is far cheaper and of better qualitj in the City of Montreal than any other Oitj in the Dominion, therefor* whilit in Montreal, do not fail to riait a at ^ % » a t9 Oar Cutters aro not excelled by any in the Land, whilst our Styles and Fit are as near perfection as Art can render them. We want but a few moments' nutice to tranamografj the new arrival into a thorough Oaiadian to all appearance, owing to the compIetene«i of oui^.feady-mMe stock. OUB SPECIALTIES ARE Men's-ready made Clothing, Suits from $6.00 or £1 upward. Youths' and Boys' Clothes <' " %2A0 or £0 10 " Gtonta' Furnishings, Hats and Caps. Newest Fashions. Portmanteaux and Valises. Shirts from 25c upwards. Suits made to ord^r from $9.00. To our Western friends and customers from a distance we would state that all orders by Mail are promptly attended to, and goods retnrned by iBzpresa in the shortest possible time. I. A. BEAUVAI8 A CO., 186 and 188 St. Joseph Street, MONTRKAL, CANADA. ^ 221 ,. PUBLISHED BY j'.r.fW ST. JAMES STREET, MONTREAL. Dawson's Tourist's Map of the Dominion of Canada ; Show in)C all the Railways cotiBtructed or proposed. In pocket form, 75 eta. Mounted on cloth for pocket, $1.25. This is the most complete and portable map in the market, and it has been brought up to the year 1881. All the new lines of Railway are shown. It is clearly printed and nicely colored. Dawson's Map of Manitoba, Keewatin, British Columbia, and the North West Territory. Paper, f J.50.'. •' :n .-;^::U '•^■^r A©"^ : i@" A©'" A? 'Ov r /'.©:'■:'*,©' a(B' /v( FFIS limipA^it).. V R vJ^ )€216Ne:R and€NGRAVGR_ -** oiM \^/aao • H«— 126 ST. JAMES STREET, (Opposite the Pott Office.) KOMTUAL. The people of t he Doininloa baTe awakened, to the fact'that iinperfect illnitrationB are in. juriouB to the subject tbua portrayed ; the mol^t Hrtistic design may be easily rained by a no- rice in the art of engrating, or by careless workmanship. Manufacturers whose prodacti are imper- fectly delineated, or the impression given of i inferior finish, are positively harmed. J. H. WALKER- has established an engrav- ing business in Montreal {the first ettablithed in Canada) that he proposes to maintain by the execution of FlxBt-olaae Work only ; he has confidence that Canadian taste will fully appreciate only eminently superior Wood Engraving. f^ By means of the most competent assist- ants, heis prepared tocompete with all now engaged iu the business for ordinary work wbere cheapness is the object. '•*• ^i^'i iiili|isM^iM ^:>fT)^J 1^ *''-* j' ■■"■'* -rTrTTTTTTTTTrTrm PiflES6^«H|.> c ^''^^i^m%\ LKCR^ 1 \ ^v NSRAVGR- t « * ES STREET, Pott Office.) lAL. linion bare awakened, ict illoitratioDB are in. U8 portrayed ; the mott eaaily ruined by a no- raring, or by careless ) prodacts are impcr- e impression given of rely banned. established an engrav- {i,hefi,rii eitablithed in to maintain by the Work only; be has lan taste will fully ntly superior Wood nost competent assist* compete with all now ess for ordinary work the object. i