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1 1 .

■ i

THE \ ()YA(;eS

CAPTAIN JAMP:S COOK

ROUXD THE WORLD.

'JAlr I' A 111 Ou ') [■

■II, l' I.- ,'l ll/J /I t"

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I'UUKK VOfAC. KS

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S tlOOK

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a;-/

/„>•. ,/,

rilMiaiiliiki

(S)

Till-: \(»va(;es

CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.

nil «Ta«TtD WITH

MAPS AND NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD.

Mieii

'■■'VIN.i AN ACCOUNT <»K TIIF. PKESKXT COMHTION OF THE SOUTH SEA

ISLANDS, iic

IN TWO VoM MKS

VOL. I.

LONDON:
WILLIAM SMITH, 113, FLEET STREET.

MDCCCXLII.

STOP

I\l>ri'.-(1V AND Kl'AVS, IT.INTKR1,
WHITKKRIARH.

CONTENTS OF TIIK FIRST VOLUMF.

List of Illi'sthations
Life or C»ptain Cook

PACE

i.\

FIRST VOYAGE.

Introduction to tlic first Voyage

PAGE

IIIAP.
I.

BOOK I.

The (Kissage from Plymcuitli to Madeira, witli
some accoiint of that i^laIul

■-'. The jiassagc from Madeira to Rio dc Janeiro,
witli some account of the country, and the
incidents tliat liappencd tlicrc

3. Tlio passage from Hio de .Taneirci to the

entrance of tlic Stniit of Le Maire, witli a
description of some of the inliabitants of
Terra del Fucgo

4. An account of what happened in ascending

a mountain to search for phmts

5. The passage througli the Strait of Lo Maire,

and a furtiier description of the inhabitants
of Terra del Fuego, and its productions

6. A general description of the south-east part of

Terra del Fuego, and the Strait of Le Maire;
wall some remarks on Lord Anson's account
of them, and directions fur the jmssage west-
ward, round this part of America, into the
Souili Seas ....

7. The sequel of the passage from Cape Horn to

tlie newly discovered islands in the Soutli
Seas, with a description of their figure and
appearance. Some account of the inhabitants,
and several incidents that happened during
the course, and at the ship's arrival among
then! .

8, The arrival of the Endeavour at Otaheite,
call-d iiy Captain Wallis, King George
the Third's Island. Rules established for
tratlic with the natives, and an .account of
several incidents which happened in a visit
to Tootaholi and Touboun:i Tamaide, two
Chiefs • . . . .

!)■ A place fixed upon for an Observatory and
Fort. An excursion into the woods, aiid its
consequences. The Fort erected. A visit
from several chiefs on board and at the Fort,
with some account of the music of the natives,
and the manner in which they dispose of
their dead

7 !

19 i
I
I

21 I

■1(1

1,<.

CHAP.

10. An excursion to the eastward, an account of

several incidents that happened botli on board
and on shore, and of tjje first interview with
OlK^rea, the person who, when the Dolphin
was here, was supposed to be Qncen of the
IsUnd, with a description of the Fort . 44

11. Tlie Observatory set up. The quadrant

stolen, and consequences of the tlicft. A
vifit to Tootahah. Description of a wrest-
ling match. Kiiropean seeds sown. Names
given to our people by tlie Indians . . 49

12. Some ladies visit the Fort with verv uneom-

mon cerenmnies. The Indians attend divine
service, and in the evening exiiibit a most
extraordinary spectacle. Toubourai Tamaide
falls into temptation . . • . ,54

Another visit to Tootahah, with various adven-
tures. Extraordinary amusement of the
Indians, with remarks upon it. Preparations
to observe the transit of Venus, and what
happened in the mean time at the Port . 57
, The ceremonies of an Indian funeral particu-
larly described. General observations on the
subject. A character found among tlic
Indians to which the Ancients paid great
veneration. A robbery at tlie Fort, and its
consequences; with a specimen of Indian
cookery, and various incidents
An arc^..nt of the circumnavigation of the
island, and various incidents that happened
during the expedition ; with a description of
a burying place and place of worship, called a
Moral

An expedition of Mr. Banks to trace the river.
Marks of subterraneous fire. Preparations'
for leaving the island. An account of Tujiia

A particular description of the island ; its
produce and iidiabitants ; their dress, habita-
tions, food, domestic life, and amusements .

Of the manufactures, boats, and navigation of
Otaheito

Of the division of time in Otaheite; numera-
tion, comjuitation of distance, langiiiige,
diseases, disposal of the dead, religion, war,
weapons, and government ; with some general
observations fi.r the use of future navigators .'18

15.

16.
1;.

ly.

!»0

3?.rr>'j

CH«P.

20,

CONTENTS.

V\OF

A di-scription of tevcnl other i«lainl» in the
lU'iglibuuilio<Hl of Otuhritr, «illi various
incidents; a draiuatir entertainment ; and
many particulars relatirc to the customs and
manners of the inhabitants . . .108

ItOOK II.

The piissaee from Oteioah to New Zea'aiid .
incidents nhicli hap|icnc<l on poing asliorc
there, and while the ship by in Poverty Hiy 1"21

2. A dcsciiptinn of Poverty Bay, and tlie face of
the ailjiicent country. Tlie ran;:r from thence
to C'a|ic Tuiiiairain, and back to Tid.ipa :
with some account of the people and the
country, and sovenil incidents that hapi>cncd
on that part of the coast

CHtP.

127

3. The range from Tolaga to Mercury Bay, with

an account uf many incidents that lup|>oned
both on board and on shore. .V description of
several views exhibited by the country, and
of the llipjahs, or fortified viUa^'cs of the
Inhabitan'.s ....

4. The range from Mercury Bay to the Bay of

Islands. An e.\pedition up the Kiver Thames.
Some account of the Indians who inhabit its
banks, and the fine timber that glows theie.
Several interviews with the natives on
dilTerent parts of the coast, and a skirmish
with tlieiu upon an island .

138

148

5. Range from the Bay of Islands round North

Cape to (Juecn Charlotte's Sound ; and a
description of that part of the coast . . 157

6. Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound.

Pass-iiie through the Strait which divides the
two islands, anil back to Cipc Tumagain,
Horrid custom of the inhabitants. Remark-
able melody of birds. A visit to a llippah,
and many other |>articulars . .163

7. Range from Cape Turnagain southward along

the eastern cuast of Pocnammoo, round Cape
South, and back to the western entrance of
Cook's Strait, which completed the circum-
navigation of this country ; with a descrip-
tion of the coast, and of Admiralty Bay.
The departure from New Zealand, and
various particulars . . . . 173

8. A general account of New Zealar..! : >>« first

discovery, situation, e.Ment, climate, and
productions .... 182

9. A description of the inhabitants, their habita-

tions, apiKircl, ornaments, food, cookery, and
manner of life . . . . 1 87

lU. Of the canoes and navigation of the inhabitants
of New Zealand ; their tillage, weapons, and
music ; government, religion, and language :
with some reasons against the existence of a
Southern Continent . . . 193

3.
4.

BOOK III.

PAGR

The lun from New Zealand to Botany Bay,
on the Eist Cosist of New Holland, now
railed New .-io'illi Wales ; various incidents
that hap[>ened there; with some account of
the eouutiy and its inhabiiants . . 201

The range from Botany Bay to Trinity Bay ;
with a further account jf the country, its
inhabitants, and productions . . 212

Dangerous situation of the ship in her course
from Trinity Bay to Kndeavour River . . 227

Transactions wliile the ship was refittin- in
Endeavour River. A description of the adja-
cent country, its inhabitants, and productions 232

Peparlure from Endeavour River. A particular
description of the h.arbour there, in which
the ship was refitted, the adj.aeent country,
anil several islands near the coast. The
range from Endeavour River to the northern
extieniity of the country, and the dangers of
that navigation . . . . 24.'t

6. Departure from New South Wales. A parti-

cular description of the eoiintiy, its products
and [H-ople. A s|)ecimen of the language,
and some observations upon the currents
and tidej ..... 258

7. The passage from New South Wales to New

Guinea, with an account of what happened
upon landing there . . . . 2C)9

8. The pass-ige from New Ouinea to the Island of

Savu, and the trans-tctions there . . 275

!•. A particular description of the Island of Savu,
its produi'Q and inhabitants, with a specimen
of their language . . . . 282

10. The run from the Island of Savu to flat.ivia,

and anaccount of the transactions there while
the ship W.1S refitting . . . 292

11. Some account of Batavia, and the adj.iccnt

country, with their fruits, flowers, and other
productions . . . . . 2.09

12. Some account of the inhabitants of Batavia,

and the adjacent country, their manners,
ciistoDis, and manner of life . . 309

1 3. The pass.ige from Batavia to the Cape of Ciood

Hope. Some accoimt of Prince's Island,
and its inhabitants, and a comparative view
of their language, with the JMalay and
Javanese . . . . . SIC

14. Our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. Some

remarks on the run from .Tava Head to that
place. A descriptiim of the Cape and of
Saiut Helena. With some account of the
Hottentots, .and the return of the ship to
England . . . . 322

PkOt

Day,

, now
iilciita
iiiit of

CONTENTS.

SECOND VOYAGE.

201

Bay ;

ly, its

course

21-;

227

in- in
c adja-
ictions 232

■ticiilar
wliich
iinitrv,
Tiic
)rtlicrn

iglTS of

CJenerai Inthoduction to tlic Second Voyage

P«C.P.

, 333

BOOK II.

24:.

V parli-
roducts
iiguagc,
urrcnts

25B

to New
ippoDcd
. . 2(iy

iknd of

. 275

f Savti,
iccimcn

. 282

[iatavia,
re wiiile

. 292

iljaccnt
id oilier

2.0!)

Batavia,
laiiiiers,

of Good

Island,

vo view

ay and

309

. 316

Sonic

to that

and of

of the

ship to

322

BOOK I.

FhOM OL'R DEPARTl'llR FROM RngI.AND, TO LEAVING THE

."■'ociETV Isles, the first time.

CHAP.

1. Passage from Dcptford to the Cape of Oood

Hope, with an acconnt of bcvcimI incidents
that happened by the way, and traneactions
there . . . . . . 343

2. Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in

search of a Southern Continent . . 350

3. Sequel of the search for a Southern Continent,

between the nieridinn of tiic Cape of Good
Hope and New Zealand ; with an account of
the separation of the two ships, and tlio
arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay . .360

4. Trans-octions in DhsUv B.-iy, with an account of

several interviews with the inhabitants . . 3C9

5. Directions for sailing in .ind out of Dusky Bay,

with an account of the adjacent country, its
produce, and inhabitants. Astronomical and
nautical observations . . . 378

6. Passage from Dnsky Bay to Queen Charlotte's

Sound, with an account of some water sjiouts,
and of our joining the Adventure . . 382

7. Captain Fumeaux's narrative, tVoni the lime

the two ships were separated, to their joining
again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some
account of Van Die men's Land . . 383

8. Transactions in Queen Chailottc's Sound, with

some remarks on tiio inhabitants . . 388

9. Route from New Zealand to Otalicite, will: an

account of some low islands, supposed to bo
the same that were seen by M. de Bougain-
ville . . . . .392

10.

II.

12.

13.

The arrival of the ships at Otalicite, with an
acrount of the critic.tl situation they were in,
and of several incidents that happened while
they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay . . , 397

An account of several visits to and from Otoo ;
of goats being left on the island ; and many
other particulars which happened while the
ships lay in Matavai Bay . . . 401

An account c the reception we met with at
Iluaheinc, with the incidents that happened
while the shijis lay there, and of Oniai,
one of the natives, coming away in the
Adventure . . . , . 404

Arrival at, and departure of the ships from
Ulietea ; with an account of what happened
there, and of Oedidoe, one of the natives,
coming away in the Rcsidulion . . 408

14. An account of a Spanish ship visiting Otalicite ;
the present state of the islands ; with some
observations on the diseases and customs of
the inhabitants, and some mistakes concern-
ing tlio women corrected . . ". 412

From oi-ii departi're from the Society Isles, to uvn

RETl'RN to, and LEAVING THEM THE SECOND TIME.
CHAP. PAGE

1. Passage from I'lictea to the Friendly Islands;

with an .iccount of the iliscovery of Ilervey's
Iiland, and the incidents that hajipened at
Middleburg .... 41.5

2. The .irrival of the ships at Amsterdam ; a

descriptiim of a place of worship; and an
.iccount of the incidents wliich happened
while they reuiaincd at that island . . . 418

3. A description of the islands and their produce,

with the cultivation, houses, canoce, na^iga-
tion,nianiifactures, weapons, customs, govern-
ment, religion, and language oftlie inhabitants 424

4. Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's

Sound ; with an account of an interview with
the inhabitants, and the final separation of
the two ships .... 429

5. Tl'imsactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound ; with

an account of the inhabitants being caiiniliiils ;
and various other incidents. Dipartmc from
the Sound, and our endeavours to fiiiil the
Adventure ; with some description of the
coast , . . . . . 433

6. Route of the ship from New Z'.aland in search

of a Continent ; with an .iccount of tho

various nbstructioiis met w.:'' from the ice,

and the methods pursued to explore the
Southern Pacilic Ocean . . . 438

7. Sequel of the passage from New Zealand to

Easter Island, .ind transactions there ; with
an .iccount of an expedition to discover tho
inland jiart of tho country, and a description
of some of the sn' mg gigantic statues
found in the isluiul . . . . 448

8. A description of the island, its produce, situa-

tion, and inhabitants ; their manners and
customs; conjectures concerning their govern-
ment, religion, and other subjects; with a
more particular account of their gigantic
statues . . . • .452

9. The passage from Easter Island to the Mar-

quesas Islands. Transactions and incidents
which happened while the ship l.iy in Madro
dc Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the Island of
St. Christina . . • . . 450'

10. Departure from the M.irquesas; a description

of the situation, extent, figure, and appear-
ance of the several islands ; with some
account of the inhabitants, their customs,
dress, habitations, food, weapons, and
canoes ..... 439

11. A description of several islands discovered, or

seen in the jiass^ige from the Marquesas to
Otalicite ; with an account of a naval review 462

12. Some account of a visit from Otoo, Towlia,

and several other chiefs ; also of a robbery
committed by one of the natives, and its
consequences, with general observations on
the subject . . . • • 46(>

via

CONTENTS.

cn«p. PAor.

I'J. Prrparaliom to leave the island. Anotlicr
Doval ii-riew. ami various otlitT iiiciilcnte ;
with iiiine arcmiut of tlie island, its naval
furcc, and nuuibcr of inhabitants . . 472

II. The arrival r.f the ship at the Island of Hua-
hcine ; with an aecount of an cx|>c(lition into
the isluml, and M'veral other incidents which
happened while she lay there . . • 477

IV .\rriv.M at I'lietea, with on account of the
reception we met with there, and the several
incidents which happened durini: our stay.
A report of two ships being at Huaheine.
Preparstiiins to leave the inland, and the regret
the inhabitants showed on the occasion.
The character of Oedidcc, with some general
obscrvatiuus uu the island . . . 481

BOOK III.
From I'liete* to Xeiv Zealand.

1 . Pass-ige from I'lietea to the Friendly Isles ;
with a difcription of scveril islands that were
discovered, and the incidents which happened
in that tiacl: . . . . 48G

Reception at Anamocka; a robbery and its
conH-quenci'S, with a variety of other inci-
dents. I>e|>arture from the island. A sailing
caiioc ile^crihed. .Sonic observations on tho
oavieatiiMi of these inlanders. A description
of the island, and of those in the neighbour-
hood, with some account of the inhabitants,
and nautical remarks . . . .

CHAP. PAGE

10. Proceedings on tho roast of New Caledonia,

with geographical and nautical idiservations 535

1 1. .Sequel of the passage from New Caledonia to

New Zealand, with an account of the dis-
covery of Norfolk Island ; and 'he incidots
that happened while the ship lav i.. (.^uceu
Charlottu's Sound . . ' . .542

490

The passage from the Friendly Isles to the
New Hebrides ; with an aecount of the
discovery of Turtle Island, and a variety
of incidents which liappened, both hcfure and
after the ship arriveil in Port Sandwich in the
Island of MallicoUo. A description of the
Port ; the a 'Jacent country ; its inhabitants,
and many other particulars

495

.\n arronnt of the discovery of several island*,
an iu'.erview and skirmish with tlie inhabit-
ants Ujoin one of them. The arrival of the
ship at Tauna, and the reception we met with
there . . . . . . 501

An intercourse established with the natives ;
some account of the island, and a variety of
incidents that happened during our st.iy at it 507

Departure from Tanna : with some account of
its inhabitants, their manners and arts . 5IG

The survey of the Islands continued, and a
more particular description of them , . 519

An account of the discovery of New Caledoniii,
and the incidents that hajipened while the
ship lay in lialade .... 526

A description af the country and its inhabitants;
their uauuers, customs, .ind arts , . b'M

BOOK IV.

FllOM LEAVING NeW ZkaLAND TO OUH RETURN TO

England.

1 . The run from New Zealand to Terra del Fucgo,

with the ranfto from Capo Dcseada to
Christmas Sound, and description of that
part of the coast . . . . . 54)(

2. Transactions in Christmas Sound, with an

account of the country and its inhabitants . 553

3. Range from Christmas Sound, round Cipc

Horn, through Strait f.e Maire, and round
Staten Land ; with an Jiccount of the dis-
covery of a harbour in tliat island, and a
description of tho coasts . . . . 557

4. Observations, geogra]>liical and nautical ; with

an account of the islands near Statca Land,
and the animals found in them . . 561

5. Proceedings after leaving Staten Land ; with

an .iccount of the discovery of the Isle of
Georgia, and a description of it . . . 505

()• Proceedings after leaving the Isle of Georgia,
and an account of the discovery of Saudwich
Land ; with some reasons for there being
land about the South Pule . . 570

7. Heads of what has been done in the voyage ;

with some conjectures concerning tho form-
ation of ice-islands ; and an account of our
proceedings till our arrival at the Cape of
Good Hope . . . . . 57fi

8. Captain Furneaiix's narrative of his proceedings

in the Adventure, from the time ho wassepa-
rated from the Resolution, to his arrival in
Kngland ; including Lieutenant IJurney'g
report concerning the boat's crew who were
murdered by tho inhabitants of Queen Char-
lotte's Sound . . . .581

f). Transactions at the Cape of Good Hope; with
an account of Fomf discoveries made hy the
French ; and the arrival of the ship at St.
Helena . . . . 686

10. Passage from St. Helena to the Western

Islands, with a description of the isl.inds

of Ascension and Fernando Noronha . . 589

11. Arrival of the ship at the island of Fayal, a

description of the place, and the return of
the Resolution to England . . . 593

ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. L

561

5()5

576

686

589

593

1- liiK l"Ni>iAVorH Api'iii)a(Iiis(. (irMiKiTi-;

-• Miuiim .......

>'. ll-ShHIIKF .......

■I. lUv Of Uio OK Jankihu . . . . •

5. Hud ck a I'ifgian

6. I'lKGlAN ViLLACiK

7. l'"l'K(iHN CaNOF ......

8. I'llLVNFSIAN KlaNI) C'dKAL l'"oRMATION

•'•• Ckystai. Ditto

!''• Volcanic Ditto

1 1. Uhfad Khuit ......

12. Nativfs or Otaiikitf Trading with Captain Cook

13. Canoes of Otaiuitf .....

14. Head of an Otahfitean ....

15. Transit OF Vfm's .....
I'f. DoiBLK Canof uini (■anoi'y

17. MohAi of Oamo and Obfiifa ....

18. Mountain Scfnkhv in Otiiikitf .

19. Hkad or Otaiieitfan Woman ....

20. Mat-wohk Tii'I'ft ok a Chief

21. Caps

22. Ma.ntle

23. InTFKIOR of a IVlLYNFSIAN IIot'SE

24. Flute anu Dhum Player ....
2.'). Cloth-ueatino Mallft .....

26. SrEciMENs of Cloth .....

27. Masket-work ....

2R. FisiiiN(i-iiooKs and Harpoons

29. Tools

30. Adzes .......

31. Section of a Pahie .....

32. Otahfitean Hier .....

33. Kinekal Orfss ......

'M. SpEtliMENS OF TAITOHINCi ....

Fioni a DiawiiiL' In- IIi(;i.i.ns Kii;ji;ivi'il Titli'.

I'loiii a Dniwini; l>y Anfuy

Mrs. (iiiiliiiiii's Voya(;(' to iIk- Ilra/.iU

KlCFNDAs' " 1,1'b Bii'sils." ....

Voy:i).'i'9 of tlie AdvontuiT iiiiil I{f,ai.^li-
- Ditto Ditto

Ditto Ditto ....

DfsigiiC'.l aftor.1 Vic^v by Missionary Williams

Ditto Ditto

Ditto Ditto .

Cook's First Voyage; anil Diet. Hist. Naturelle—
Plaudit's I)otanii|iivs ....

Designed from a Plate in Cominodoiv Wallis'
Voyage ......

Designed from Plates in Cook's Voyages .

I'ainting by Wfiibfh ....

Pliilosopliical Transactions, Vol. LXl.

Cook's Voyages .....

Designed from Plates in Voyage de L'Astrolalie

William's Soiitli Sea Islands

Painting by Wfbbfr .....

Specimens in llie British Museum .

Ditto Ditto

Ditto Ditto ....

Designed from Plates in Cook's Voyages

Ditto Ditto .

Cook's First Voyage .....
Speeiiuens in the Uiitish Miiscniu .

Ditto Ditto

Ditto Ditto ....

Ditto Ditto

Cook's First Voyage .....

Ditto Ditto

Ditto Diito

DuMONT uTrvillf, Voyage dc I'Astrolahe

4
>!
II
21
25
28
33
35
36

47
,■.3
01
08
71
74
80
81
82
83
84
88
90
91
93
94
95
95
97
102
102
105

ILLUSTRATIONS.

35. Wfapons etc. of Ot*heite

36. Ann of llr^HFiNK ....

37. Native of Ohftfboa . . . .

38. Taking in Water on a Low niAcii

39. Great Canoe of IFicks's Bay .

40. Vinv or A IIippAii, or Fortified Village

41. Canof Pitting off . . , .

42. New Zealandeh in War Costume

43. View in the Bay of I-slanos ,

44. Interior of a IIippah

45. Canoe with carved decorations .

46. Clubs of New Zealand .

47. New Zealander expressing defiance

40. New Hollander with the Boomehang

49. Spear IIfads

50. Nativfs of New Holland

51. Botany Bay

52. Mangrove Tree . . . . .

53. Kanguroos .....

54. Heads of New Hollanders

55. New Hollander csing the throwing-stici<

56. New Holland Shield . . . .

57. Trees of New Gi.inea

58. Savi- Blffaio

59. Stilted HorsES of Savt

60. Fan Palm

CI. Batavia ......

62. Chinese Shops . . . . .

63. Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope .

64. Ice Islands ......

65. Pengiins ......

66. Albatross ......

C7. Pov Bird ......

C8. Yams and Plantains . . • .

69. Otaheitean Hogs ....

70. View of HuAiiriNE .....

71. Afiatoica

72. Bli'e Peterfl .....

73. Natives of the Marqiesas .

74. War-dress of Otaheite ....

75. Coral Rocks .....

76. Sailing Canoes of .Vnnatnooka

77. Nose Ornament of Mallicollo .

78. INIallicollo Bow .....

79. Landing at Erromango

80. View in the Island of Tansa

81. Rats and Trap .....

82. Stone Hatchet of Tanna .

PAUK

Specimens in the British Musenm . . . 107

Cook's First Voyage . . . . . . 110

Cook's First Voyage 120

Dumont d'Urville, Voyage dc rAttrolabe . . 133

Ditto Ditto . .138

Ditto Ditto . . . . 145

Ditto Ditto .149

Ditto Diito . . . . 154

Ditto Ditto . . . 157

Ditto Ditto . . . 168

Plates to Cook's First Voynje . . . .193

Ditto Ditto 195

Drawing in !Sir J. Banks's Collection, British
Museum . . • . . .196

Mitchell's Australia ... ... 205

Ditto Ditto 206

DiMoNT d'Uhville, Voyage de I'.Vstiolabe . . 207
Ditto Ditto . .211

Wood's Zoograpliy . . . . . . 217

The foregrounil figure from Cook's Plate ; the
second, showing its appearance iu the Ion? -ZTtsif
fioiu Mitchell's .Australia .... 241

DuMONT d'L'kville 262

AIitchfll's Australia 266

{Spcrinicn in the possession of the Rev. Charles
Williams, Religious Tr i Stcicty . . . 267

Cook's Plates and Wfbber's Draw!n'.r5 . . . 274

Sydney Lithograph ...... 283

Du.MONT d'Urville ...... 285

Rhuniphius. Herbarium Amboinensis . . . 286

r Dutch Print in the King's Collection, British

|_ Museum ....... 301

Dumont d'I'rville . . . . . . 314

Daniells' Scenery of South Africa . . . 324

Original Drawing ....... 353

Si)ceimcn and Groups in Cook's Folio Plates . 356

.Specimen in British Museum . . . . 3ii0

Ditto, and Cook's Quarto Plates .... 380

Origin.il Drawing 398

Original Drawing 403

Cook's Atlas 404

Cook's Atlas . 420

Specimen in British Museum . . . . . 444

Cook's Atlas 460

Drawing in Banks's Collection, British Museum . 465

From a Drawing by Webber .... 488

From a Drawing by Hodgfs . .... 493

Cook's Text ....... 500

Cook's Collection, British Museum . . . 504

Cook's Collection, British Museum . . . 510

Drawing by Fussell . . . . . .514

Cook's Text 518

ILUISTRATIONS.

PAUB

. 107

. . no

. 120
. . 133

. 138
. . U5

. 149
. . 154

. 157
. . 168

. 11*3

. . 135

ritUli

. 196

. . 205
. 206

. . 207
. 211

. . 217
; the

. 211

. . 262

. 2(J6

larles
. . 267

. 274

. . 283

. 285

. . 286

ritish

. 301

. . 314
. 324

. . 353
. 35»;

. . 3i;o

. 380
. ■ 398

. 403
. . 404

. 420
. . 444

. 460
u . 465

. 488
. . 493

. 500
. . 500

. 504
. . 510

. 514
. . 518

13. FiRK.RTONEB OF NfW ('.4LFUONIA

^i. Norfolk Island I'ine

'■'• Christmas Sounu . . . .

*^''. Sra Bears .....

^7. Ska Lion

*^^. N'a FIVES OF Qi FEN Charlotte's Sound

'^9- St. Helena

Cook's Text ......

DrawiiiL' by W. Westali

Drawing by Hodges .....

Spcrinicns in Hiitisli Mtisi-uin

S])ociincii8 in Hiitisli Miiseiiiii

r Dcsifjiied from Autbniilics in Banks's Collection
[ Hiitisli Museiiiii, and Dumont D'Urvillk .

From an Originiil Drawing ....

PAOB

5;«

.542
5(i3

ri8a

ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II.

'■'<1. Cape Town . . . . .

01. KeRGI'FLFn's liAND .....

"2. Man of Van Diemen's Lano ....
"3. Immense Tree of Van Diemen's Land .

04. Man of .Mangeea

9'>. View in Annamooka .....

^a. BoXlNlJ-MATrH AT Hapaee . . . ,

97. Female Ballet at IIapaee ....

98. PouLAiio drinking Kava ....

99. Head of Poi'laho

100. Natciie in honoi'r ok the King's Son

101. jMats, Baskets, and Fancv-work of the Women of

the Fhiendlv Islands ....

102. Adzes, Knives, Files, of the Friendly Islands

103. Fishing Implements, Ditto

104. Musical Instruments, Ditto ....

105. Human Sacrifice at the Great Morai of Otaheite

106. Heeva Raa — Dancf, of Wo.men

107. Portrait or Omai .....
ion. Morai at Atooi, with Pyramid .

109. Caps of the Sandwich Islanders

110. Sandwich Islander in his Full Dress Cap an

Cloak .......

111. Women OF the Sandwich Islands .

112. Fashions of Hair among the Sandwich Islanders

113. Bracelet .......

114. Huts of the Sandwich Islanders .

1 15. Patterns of Dresses ....

116. Dagger and Flesh Knives ....

117. NooTKA Sound Canoe ....

118. Virginian Deer ......

1 1 9. Natives of Nootka Sound ....

120. Dress of Natives of Nootka Sound

121. Mabqur" and Decorations or Nootka Sound

Daniells' S. African Scenery, vol. ii.

Drawing by WEnnEii. Coiik's Atlas .

Drawing by Wfbbeu. Cook's Atlas

l>awing by Dimont D'I'hville

Drawing by Webber. C'ook's Atlas

Drawing by Webber

Drawing by Webber ....

Drawing by \»'ebber

Drawing by Webbfr ....

Drawing by Webber

Drawing by AN ebiier ....

I Specimens in tbc Museum of the London
I sionary Society, Mooifields .

Ditto Ditto .

Ditto Ditto

Ditto Ditto .

Painting by Webber

Painting by Webber ....
Painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds
Painting by Webber ....
Specimens in the British Museum

i- Specimens in the British Museum .

Painting by Webber

Dalrvmple's Voyage ....

Drawing by Webber

Specimens in British ISIuseuni

Drawing by Webber ....

Drawing by VVebber

Pennant's Arctic Zoology

Painting by Webber

Designed from Webber's Paintings .

Designed from Webber's Paintings

Mis

107

111)

131

149
1,50
151
152
173
178
201
236
238

247

248
248
249
251
2.55
263
272
2/5
276
278

ILLUSTRATIONS

122. IIofSES OF XoOTKA SolNO ....

123. SLKrPINCi HKNtllKS Ol NilOTKA SoiND

I2>. Natchkua AND Matsefta — Idols OK Xootka Soin

125. .MooK uF CuoKiNn in Nootka Sound

12(). Man of Uonalasiika .....

127. TllR TsClll'TSKI AND TIIFIH HABITATIONS

128. Cap of the Nativfs of Oonahmika

129. Interior of a Hut of Oonai,4siika

130. Fishing Canoe ......

I.'il. Kankf.na in his Helmet ....

132. Terhkfoboo's Canoe .....

133. PaNCER OF THE S.»ND«lrll IsL\NDS .

131. Taho, OR Sweet Potato — Ipomiea Batatis .
135. Necklace and Pendant .....

13(). Fly-flap

137. Masquers in a Canoe . . . • .

138. Hahboi'u and Town of St. Peter and St. Paul

139. Sledoe Travelling in Ka.mtschatka

140. Town of Bolcheretsk

141. The Sarana — Lilum Kamscmatcen.se

142. Sweet Gras» — Hfraclkum Sibiricum

143. Wolverine — I'lisus Lu.seus ....

144. Man and Woman of K^mtsciiatka

145. Interior of a .Ioirt, oh Wintfh IIauitation of

Kamtschatka ......

{

Painting by Wfr:ieu ....

Puiiiting by Wfiibeh . . . . .

Piiiiiting by Webber ....

Painting by Webber ....

Pninting by Webber ....

Painting by Webber ....

Painting by WrnnEH ....

Designed from Painting by Webber

P.iiming by Webber ....

Painting by Webber ....

Plate in Riiekde's Hort'i^ ludiciis Malnb.iriciu

Spvciiuens in tbe Museum of tbe l.ionilon
sionary Society .....

Spcrinieiis in tbe Museum of the Loudon
sionaiy Society ....

Painting by Webber ....

Painting by Wfbber ....

Painting by Webber ....

Painting by AVebbfh ....

Linn.T.'in Tninsactions, Vol. X.

Gmelin, Floiica Sibirica, Tom. I.

Cuvier, Konograpbie du Rtgue Animal .

Painting by Webber ....

Mis-
Mis-

> P.iintiag by Webber

PACE

. 281
. 282
. 283
. 284
. 302
. .331
. 3.J4
. 355
. 357
371
. 376
. 380
, 415

420

420
422
438
440
450
494
49.5
497
503

509

MAPS.

.Map of the World, siioaving the Track of each Voyage
" New Zealand .......

" The Society Islands

" Til

" Australia

Phe Society Islands 1
Phe Sandwich Islands J

To face page 1, Vol. I.
121, Vol. II.

Frontispiece, Vol. II.

To face page 1, Vol. II.

PAGE
. 281

. 282
. 283
. 284
. ;102
. 331
. 3 J4
. ;!55
. 357
371
. 376
, 380
. 415

420

422
438
44G
450
494
495
497
503

509

LIFE OK CAPTAIN JAMKS COOK.

Some account of the life of this truly great man— one whose unobtrusive
modesty, conspicuous alike in his actions and his writings, only made his fani?' the
more purely bright — is the fitting preface to the history of his greatest achieve-
ments; that is to say, those by which he most directly served his country, for
in considering his moral history, that of the growth, cultivation, and expansion
of his mind, we find the greatest and most extraordinary had been ofFcctcd
long before his name was knoAvn beyond " the Service." A faithful account
of the early days of Cook, could it be obtained, would give us better data for
forming a sound judgment on his character than is usually procured from infor-
mation gleaned after fame has been reaped. All the most material events of his
honourable career are mentioned in the account of his services and sketch of his
career given by Captain King, in his journal of the events of the voyage subsequent
to the death of his lamented leader (see infra vol. ii. p. 387-9), and we can add but
little to it.

James Cook was born on the 27th October 1728, at Marton, in Cleveland, a
village about four miles from Great Ayrton in the County of York, and was bap-
tised in the parish church there, on the 3rd November following. His father was
then a day-labourer on a farm, and resided in one of the mud cottages common in
that neighbourhood ; but his circumstances were somewhat improved soon after, as
in 1730 he was appointed hind or bailiff to Thomas Scottowe, Esq., and entrusted
with the care of a large farm at Ayrton, whither he removed. Up to the age of
thirteen his son James, who was one of a family of nine children, remained at home,
assisting as far as his strength would permit in the ordinary duties of the farm. He
was then sent to school at Ayrton, where he learnt m riting and arithmetic, reading-
having been apparently picked up before. To what point that reading had extended
— what influence it exercised over his young mind, we have no record beyond
a traditionary statement that he displayed " a very early genius for figures," In
Janilary 1745 he was put apprentice to a shopkeeper at Snaith, but on discovering
an inclination to the sea, his master gave up his indentures, and in July 1746 he

XIV

LIFE OF CAI'TAIN JAMKS (OOK.

iirticlfd himself tor three years to Mr. J. Walker, a shipowner engaged in the coal
trade at AVhitby.

The coal trade has been the nursery of many good seamen, and in it Cook
evidently acquired no common degree of nautical skill. He first ^sailed in the
Frcelovc, a collier trading between Newcastle and London, where he remained till
174H; when his master, who already perceived his worth, and was desirous to give
him all the advantages in his power, sent for him to NN'hitby that he might have an
ojiportunity of improving himself in his profession, by assisting in the rigging and
fitting out a new vessel of six hundred tons, called the Three Brothers, in which
he sailed about the latter end of June, first in two trips to London in the coal
trade, and afterwards, the ship being taken up as a transport, to INIiddleburg,
Dublin, Liverpool, and Deptford, (where the ship was paid offj, finishing the season
in the Norway trade. In the spring of 1750 he left Mr. >\'alker's service, and
entered on board the Marian of Whitby, engaged in the IJaltic trade. The next
year he passed in a vessel belonging to Stockton, the name of which has not been
preserved ; and in February 175!2 he returned to Mr. A\'alker, who made him
mate of one of his vessels, the Friendship, in which capacity he continued until he
resolved to enter the navy ; " having," to use his own words, " a mind to try his
fortune that way." Ho was furnished with a letter of recommendation from
Mr. Walker, and another which, at the request of several of his friends and
neighbours, was written for him by Mr. Osbaldiston, MP. for Scarborough ; and
thus provided, he in 1755 entered the king's service on board the Eagle, a sixty-
gun ship, then commanded by Captain Hamcr : that officer was shortly superseded
by Sir Hugh Palliser, who, much to his honour, recognised Cook's merits, and
transferred him from the forecastle to the quarter-deck, thus laying the foundation
for his future superstructure of fame. This fact should not be forgotten, when the
name of Sir Hugh Palliser is called to mind.

We have no detailed accounts of the upward progress of the untutored collier
apprentice, who, by the force of his own merits alone, had at so v"arly a period won
the rank of a gentleman, and become entitled to associate on equal terms with the
educated and the high-born. But it was rapid ; the same untiring energy and
steady pursuit of one object which appears ever to have ruled him to the last
moment of his life, that of concentrating all his ener;,'ies for the discharge of
immediate duties, without weakening them by vain anticipations of the future, very
soon procured him additional rank.

On the 15th of May 1759, he was appointed a master in the navy on board the
Mercury, and in that vessel joined the fleet before Quebec, then commanded by
Sir Charles Saunders, who immediately employed him in making a complete
draught of the channel and river of St. Lawrence, which chart was published. In
September in the same year he was transferred to the Northumberland, the flag-
ship of Lord Colville, who had the command of the squadron stationed on the
coast of America. " It was here," says Captain King, " as I have often heard him

LIKli Ui CAPTAIN JA.MKS ( OOK.

say, that, ihnini,' a hard v iiitc-r, he first reail Euclid, and applii-d hiiiiMlf to iht-
study of inatliiniatics and astronomy, without any otlicr assistance ihan what a lew
books and his own industry afforded him."

Wliilst attached to these vessils, we learn from Captain King that " Sir Charles
Saunders committed to his charge the execution of services of the first import-
ance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Mont-
morency ; conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham ; examined the
passage and laid buoys for the security of the large ships in jjrocecding up the
river;" services of immense importance, yet performed by a man, chosen from
many who had enjoyed infinitely greater advantages of education, but who had not
learned like Cook to do something more than qualify themselves for the ordinary
routine of duty. I'p to the time he entered His Majesty's service, he knew little
or nothing of the theory of navigation. With what earnestness he must have
studied to fit himself for the thorough performance of the duties, which their
confidence in his undcviating fidelity led his superiors to impose upon him, is
evinced by his executing such arduous services at tlie very time when he was
occupied in learning how they could be accomplished.

His conduct gained him the warm friendship of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord
Colville, " who continued to patronise him during the rest of their lives with the
greatest zeal and affection." At the close of the war he was, on the recommenda-
tion of Lord Colville and his old friend Sir Hugh Palliser, engaged in a survey of
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coasts of Newfoundland ; an employment in
which he continued till 1767, when he was fixed upon by Sir Edward Hawke to
take charge of the expedition intended to be sent out for the purpose of observing
the transit of Venus in the South Seas. Before that period he had, however, made
a visit to England, where, in the latter end of the year 1762, he married Miss
Elizabeth Batt, of Barking, Essex. In the early part of the next year he returned
to Newfoundland, where he continued to act as Surveyor first with Captain Graves,
and afterwards under Sir Hugh Palliser. Many of the marks which he erected
for surveying purposes arc still visible, and recall the memory of their author,
whilsv, the changes which have taken place in the condition of those shores (which
are stated by Sir R. Bonnycastle to be rapidly sinking and consequently much
altered in their bearings and general appearance since their windings were
delineated by the hand of Cook) forcibly remind us of the vast alterations
moral and political which have since then changed the aspect of the whole world,
and nowhere in a greater degree than in those far distant and undiscovered lands
to which his destinies were now about to call him.

In 1767, when upon the representations of the Royal Society that an accurate
observation of the approaching transit of Venus over the Sun's disc would materi-
ally serve the cause of science, and that such an observation could nowhere be made
with such advantage as on some one of the islands of the South Sea, King George
the Third, who ever delighted in forwarding every scheme which promised any

■RPil

\VI

MFK OF ( AI'TAIN J.A.MKS (OOK.

incroasc of scientific knowKnlijt', ami wlin had already sent forth two expeditions of
discovery, one of winch, that under ^Vallis and ( 'arteret, was yet at :iea, immediately
determined that the M-ishes of the Society should not only he fulfilled, hut that
advantaf^e should he taken of the occasion for sending forth a third expedition,
better provided with every requisite for prosecuting researches through regions yet
unexplored tlian had ever been sent forth by any nation. The whole success
of this project depended upon the choice of the man who was to conduct it, and
Cook, a humble Master in the Navy, totally unfriended by birth or fortune, but who
[lossessed friends won and fast fixed by his conspicuous merit, was singled out for
an employment perhaps the most truly honourable that could have been imposed
upon any officer.

It was, however, necessary that the rank of the commander of a vessel, destined
for such an enterprise, should be in some degree commensurate Avith its importance,
and accordingly Cook received his commission as lieutenant on the Jioth of May,
17(J8, and took his final departure from Plymouth on the 520th of August.

In a memoir jirefacing the account of the three several voyages of discovery,
which Cook conducted with a judgment and correspondent success never excelled,
if ever equalled, we are not called on to trace his course, and this is the less needful
here, as Captain King has already done so in his Journal (vol. ii. p. 3SH), and we
shall have occasion to direct attention to it in the earlier parts of the Appendix.

From the time of Captain Cook's embarking in the Endeavour, all that we know
of his history is comprised in the records of his voyages ; from these a very fair
estimate of his personal worth may be formed, but the most pleasing is that afforded
by the testimony of his pupil, companion, and friend, Captain King, who, in the
sketch we have before referred to has well depicted the character of his beloved
commander.

The great charm, and the real use of all biography, consists much more in the
insight we are able to gain of the true character, as it is displayed without disguise
in the homely details of domestic life and friendly intercourse, than in a review of
the circumstances attending the public life of the subject of the memoir. There is
more interest in the history of the man than that of the hero. But we have no
materials of this sort to interweave with our bare narrative of the public acts of a
man who spent all his best days in the unceasing service of his country. No
memorials of his domestic life, of those few hours of relaxation snatched from long
protracted years of toil, have been preserved to us. Only the love and veneration
with which the comrades of his toil regarded their leader, do not permit a doubt
that he was not less estimable as a husband and father.

On his return from his first voyage, he was promoted to the rank of commander ;
and in 1775, on the completion of the voyage in search of a southern continent,
he obtained his post rank, and was also rewarded with a valuable situation in
Greenwich Hospital ; and on his death a pension of £200 per annum was settled by
the king on his widow, and £2o per annum on each of his children, of whom he

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMKS (()(»K.

XVII

left throo, n'.'ithcr of whom lonj? siirvivetl him. Natlianiil. the srcond son, who was
a nii(I>lii])mnii on board tlic Tliun(Ui"r. ('ommo»h)it' W'aUinijham, was lo>t witlitliiv'
vessel, which fouiulored at sea, lie l)eiiii» then only sixteen years old. Huuh, the
younj^'est child, who was a student at C'h^i^t's t'ollei:e, C'anihridge, died there in
1TJ)3, beinj^ then only seventeen years of ago; and in the next year James, the
eldest son, then commander of the Spitfire sloop of war, was drowned in his
thirty-second year with his whole boat's crew off the Isle of \N iijht. A daughter
had previously died of a dropsy when about twelve years of age. Thus a few short
years beheld the widow of the great navigator left alone in the world bereft of idl
the ties Avhieh were most dear to her.

She long survived ; but ever observed four melancholy anniversaries, on each
recurrence of which she was accustomed to seclude herself, and give up her thoughts
to the memory of the dead. She had fixed her re>idenee at Clapham, that she
might enjoy the society of her son James, whenever his duties called him to
London, and there she continued to re>ide until death at length called her, in her
ninety-fourth year, to rejoin those whom she had so long lamented. Her circum-
stances, independently of her pension, were easy, and she left large sums to various
charities ; but her most precious relic, the Copley medal, which had been voted to
her husband for his improved method of preserving the health of seamen during long
voyages, but which he did not live to receive, she bequeathed to the Ihitish
Museum.

The remarkable point in Cook's character appears to be this : that although from
his boyhood he desired to reach beyond the point he occupied, his ambition, if we
must, for fault of a better, use a very invidious term, never led him, as he himself
would have expressed it, to go beyond soundings. He pursued a steady, upright
career; his course was ever forward; as he proceeded he gained knowledge. His
knowledge led to a novel discipline on board our " scientific navy," of which he
was the founder, Captain J. C. lloss being the latest and right worthy follower.

In the account of his first voyage Captain Cook lies under a double disadvantage.

His journals were " fitted for the press," as vile a proceeding as fitting" Shakspeare

for the stage," (a proceeding now happily explodi-d), by Dr. Hawkesworth, who

contrived to make them unpopular by some very uncalled-for interpolations of his

own ; and secondly, by the presence of Mr. (afterwards Sir Joseph) Banks, which,

although submitted to with due deference to the powers above, was evidently

irksome to the man, who, knowing himself equal to the conduct of every branch of

inquiry, with the assistance of capable and conformable assistants, felt himself in a

disagreeable and somewhat equivocal position with one, who, though not officially,

was virtually a sort of overseer, independent of his control. In a ncte, vol. i. p.

337, we noticed the disagreement which prevented Mr. Banks from accompanying

Cook on his second voyage. It has been said (but by a spiteful enemy of Banks,

who did not publish his statement till the object of his hatred was no more), that

Cook wilfully caused Mr. Banks's accommodations to be curtailed, in order to

XVIU

LIFK OF CAl>TAIN JAMES C(X)K.

disgust him. There is very little doubt that Cook did not wish for his company,
nor wo'ld the companionship of any man, however amiable, be easily tolerated on
the terms on which Mr. Banks had once sailed, and proposed to sail again — as one
almost, if not quite, independent of the captain — almost his equal on the quarter-
deck, where no equa' can be borne without death to discipline, even in the presence
of royalty. Cook M^as glad that Banks did not sail again with him, but he was
above a dirty trick to get rid of him.

Captain Cook was plain and unassuming in his manners and appearance. His
sti.*;urc was upwards of six feet, and his general aspect is described as good-looking.
His head was small ; ho wore his hair, which was brown, tied behind ; his face
was full of expression ; his nose exceedingly well shaped ; his eyes, which were
small and of a brown colou);, were quick and piercing ; his eyebrows prominent,
which gave his countenance altogether an nir of austerity.

The attentive perusal of his oicn portion of the account of his momentous voyages,
strongly urges us to write a eulogium on Cook ; but './e shall do better to substitute
that written by Admiral Forbes, Commander of the Fleet, and inscribed on a pillar
erected to his memory by his old and faithful friend, Sir Hugh Palliser, in his own
grounds.

THE ^lEMORY OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK,

TME ABLEST ANn MOST RENOWNED NAVIGATOR THIS OR ANV COUNTRY HATH PRODUCED.

He raised himself, solely by his merit, from a very obscure birth, to the rank of
Post-Captain in the royal navy, and was unfortunately killed by the savages of the
island of Owhyhee, on the 14th of February, 1779 ; which island he had not long
before discovered, when prosecuting his third voyage round the globe.

He possessed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications requisite for his
profession and great undertakings ; together with the amiable and worthy qualities
of the best men.

Cool and deliberate in judging: sagacious in determining : active in executing:
steady and persevering in enterprising, from vigilance and urn-emitting caution :
unsubdued by labour, difficulties, and disappointments : fertile in expedients :
never wanting presence of mind : always possessing himself, and the full use of a
sound understanding.

Mild, just, but exact in discipline, he was a father to his people, who were
attached to him from affection, and obedient from confidence.

hlFR OF ( APTAIN JAMES COOK.

XIX

His knowledge, his experience, his sagacity, rendered him so entirely master of
his subject, that the greatest obstacles were surmounted, and the most dangerous
navigations became easy, and almost safe, under his direction.

He explored the Southern hemisphere to a much higher latitude than had ever
been reached, and with fewer accidents than frequently befal those who navigate
the coasts of this island.

By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of his ship's comjiany,
he discovered and introduced a system for the preservation of the health of seamen
in long voyages, which has proved wonderfully efficacious : for in his second voyage
round the world, which continued upwards of three years, he lost only one man by
distemper, of one hundred and eighteen, of which his company consisted.

The death of this eminent and valuable man was a loss to mankind in general ;
and ^)articularly to be deplored by every nation that respects useful accomplish-
ments, that honours science, and loves the benevolent and amiable affections of the
heart. It is still more to be deplored by this country, which may justly boast of
having produced a man hitherto unequalled for nautical talents ; and that sorrow is
farther aggravated by the reflection, that his country was deprived of this ornament
by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might have been dreaded, but
from whom it was not deserved. For, actuated always by the most attentive care
and tender compassion for the savages in general, this excellent man was ever
assiduously endeavouring, by kind treatment, to dissipate their fears and court their
friendship; overlooking their thefts and treacheries, and frequently interposing, at
the hazard of his life, to protect them from the sudden resentment of his own
injured people.

The object of his last mission was to discover and ascertain the boundaries of
Asia and America, and to pene.xate into the Northern Ocean by the North East
Cape of Asia.

Traveller ! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great master in his
profession ; whose skill and labours have enlarged natural philosophy ; have
extended nautical science ; and have disclosed the long-concealed and admirable
arrangements of the Almighty in the formation of this globe, and, at the same time,
the arrogance of mortals, in presuming to account, by their speculations, for the
laws by which he was pleased to create it. It is now discovered, beyond all doubt,
that the same Great Being who created the universe by his ^at, by the same
ordained our earth to keep a just poise, Avithout a corresponiling Southern continent
— and it does so ! " He stretches out the North over the empty place, and hangeth
the earth upon nothing." — Job, xxvi. 7.

If the arduous but exact researches of this extraordinary man have not discovered
a new world, they have discovered seas unnavigated and unknown before. They
have made us acquainted with islands, people, and productions, of which we had no
conception. And if he has not been so fortunate us Americus to give his name to
a continent, his pretensions to such a distinction remain unrivalled ; and he will be

LIFE OP CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.

revered, while there remains a page of his own modest account of his voyages, and
as long as mariners and geographers shall be instructed, by his new map of the
Southern hemisphere, to trace the various courses and discoveries he has made.

If public services merit public acknowledgments ; if the man who adorned and
raised the fame of his country is deserving of honours, then Captain Cook deserves
to have a monument raised to his memory, by a generous and grateful nation.

Virtutis ubcrriiiium aliincutuni et lumos.

V.\i.. Maximis, lib. ii. piip. 6.

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^ ii

INTRODUCTION.

When the general peace of 17G3 left Britain at liberty to turn her undiviiled
energies to those pursuits which had too long been interrupted by war, the extension
of her commerce, and the improvement of her people, a strong desire was manifested
to increase the extent of our geographical knowledge ; and by none was this o\)j(!ct
more eagerly pursued than by the young King George III. Under his auspices an
expedition under Commodore iiyron, and another under Captain Wallis and
Captain Carteret, were fitted out. The more immediate connnission of each of these
navigators was the discovery and examination of islands in the South Atlantic
ocean ; but on their homeward voyage through the straits of Magelhaens or Magellan,
and across the Pacific Ocean, out of the track of former voyagers, they made many
discoveries which greatly stimulated curiosity at home, and gave additional strength
to an opinion, then very generally entertained, that a southern continent must
necessarily exist to counterbalance the weight of land in the north.

In the latter part of the year 1767, while Wallis and Carteret were still at sea, it
was resolved by the Royal Society, that it would bo proper to send persons into
some part of the South Sea, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over the sun's
disc, which, according to astronomical calculation, would happen in the year 17()D ;
and that tho islands called Marquesas do Mendoza, or those of Rotterdam or
Amsterdam, were the fittest places then known for making such observation.

This resolution h:.ving been communicated to His Majesty, ho directed that a
vessel should be fitted out for the purpose. The command was intrusted to
Lieutenant Cook, who had recently been employed on surveys in Newfoundland,
and had been pointed out as an officer especially qualified for tho service ; and ho
was appointed by the Royal Society, in conjunction with Mr. Charles Green, a
gentleman who had long been assistant to Dr. Bradley at the Royal Observatory at
Greenwich, to observe the transit.

Whilst the vessel was getting ready. Captain Wallis returned ; and upon his
representation that the island he had recently discovered, and named King George's
Island (now known as Otaheite or Tahiti), was the fittest place for the observation,
the Royal Society made choice of it for the purpose.

The vessel employed on this occasion was the Endeavour, a barque of 370 tons,
built for tho coal trade. A vessel of this class was preferred by Cook to any other :
the colliers are particularly distinguished as excL'llent sea-boats, and their build

(

I\TUODUCTH)N,

I r

I n

allows more room, and pormits tlicm to tako tlio ground or to bo laid on shore with
more ^afoty than any other vessels of equal size ; they also rc(^uire fewer men for
their navigation.

Her comi»lonient of officers and men was, Lieutenant Cook the commander, with
two lieutenants un<ler him ; a master and boatswain, with each two niates ; a surgeon
and carpenter, witii each one mate ; a gunner, a cook, a clerk and steward, two .
quarter-masters, an armourer, a sailmaker, throe midshipmen, forty-one able seamen,
twelve marines, and nine servants — in all eighty-four persons, besides the conunander.
She was victualled for eighteen months, and took on board ten carriage and twelve
swivel gims, with good store of ammunition and other necessaries.

The instructions given to the commander wore, after making the necessary astro-
nomical observations at Otaheite, to prosecute the design of making discoveries
in the South Seas, returning homo by way of the Cape of Good Hope. The happy
results of this voyage more than e(iuallc<l the most sanguine hopes that had been
entertained of its success, and excited public interest in a high degree.

Mr., afterwards Sir Joseph Banks, long so well known as president of the Royal
Society, but then a young man ardently devoted to scientific pursuits, and liberally
expending an ample fortune in the advancement of his favourite studies, accompanied
Lieutenant Cook on this expedition. He carried with him Dr. Solandor, by birth a
Swede, and a pupil of the celebrated Linnrcus. Such a companion Mr. Banks
considered as an acquisition of no small importance ; nor was he disappointed, for
Dr. Solander proved as indefatigable as himself in the collection of every specimen of
natural history that could bo procured throughout the voyage, in the pursuit of
which neither hesitated to encounter toil or danger. Mr. Banks also took with him
two draftsmen — one to delineate views and figures, the other to paint such subjects
of natural history as might offer — together with a secretary and four servants, two
of whom were negroes.

Mr. Banks kept an accurate and circumstantial account of the voyage, which ho
did not publish himself, but freely communicated to Dr. Hawkesworth, to whom the
care of preparing the following account was intrusted ; and many of the most
interesting parts of the narration ai'o derived from this source.

It is to be regretted that Mr. Banks did not accompany Captain Cook in his
subsequent voyages : he had formed the design of joining him in his second expedi-
tion, and had made every arrangement for coming on board, when a slight misunder-
standing between them induced him to abandon his intention.

Tiie particular objects in view in the second and third voyages performed by
Captain Cook arc fully entered into in the several introductions to the respective
narrative?, t^ which wo refer our readers.

.Sf

AN ACCOUNT

A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

In 1708, 1709, 1770, and 1771.

CHAl'TEU I.

BOOK I.

-THE PASSAGE FROM PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OP

THAT ISLAND.

11/

ivcd

received my coniniission, wliich was dated the 25tli of May, ]7<>f^, I went on
board on tlic 27tli, hoisted tlio pennant, and took charge of the ship, which then lay in the
basin in 1 )eptford-yard. She was fitted for sea with all expedition ; and stores and provi-
sions being taken on board, sailed down the river on the 30th of July, and on the l.'Uh of
August anchored in Plymouth Sound,

Wiiilo we lay here waiting for a wind, the articles of war and the act of parliament were
read to the ship's company, who were paid two months' wages in advance, and told tiiut
they wore to expect no additional pay for the performance of the voyage.

On Friday, the 20th of August, the wind becoming fair, wc got under sail, and put to
sea. On the 31st, we saw several of the birds which the sailors call JMother Carey's
Cliickens, and which they suppose to be tlio forerunners of a storm ; and on the next day
we had a very hard g.ilc, which brought us under our courses, washed over-board a small
boat belonging to the boatswain, and drowned three or four dozen of our poultry, which wc
regretted still more.

On Friday, the 2d of September, wc saw land between Cape Finisterre and Cape Ortegal,
on the coast of Gallicia, in Spain ; and on the 5th, by an observation of the sun and moon,
we found the latitude of Capo Finisterre to be 42" 53 north, and its longitude 8" 40' west,
our first meridian being always supposed to pass through Greenwich ; variation of the
needle 21" 4' west.

During this course, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had an opportunity of observing many
marine animals, of which no naturalist has hitherto taken notice ; particularly a new species
of the Oniscus, which was found adhering to the Medusa Pelagica ; and an animal of uii
angular figure, about three inches long, and one thick, with a hollow passing quite through
it, and a brown spot on one end, which they conjectured might be its stomach : four of these
adhered together by their sides when they were taken, so that at first they were thought to
be one animal ; but upon being put into a glass of water they soon separated, and swam
about very briskly. These animals are of a new genus, to which ]Mr. Banks and Dr. Solan-
der gave the name of Dat/i/sa., from the likeness of one species of them to a gem : several
specimens of them were taken, adhering together sometimes to the length of a yard or more,
and shining in the water with very beautiful colours. Another animal, of a new genus, they
also discovered, which shone in the water with colours still more beautiful and vivid, and
which indeed exceeded in variety and brightness anything that we had ever seen : the colour-
ing and splendour of these animals were equal to those of au opal, and from their resemblance

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE IlOrND TirK M'OIILD.

Sk.pt. i:r.o.

to tliat Jjcm, tlio ppnus was ciillocl ('<nrhi!um ()/i<if!iiin)i. One of tlicin lived several liours in
a glas8 of suit water, swiniiniiig ahuut with great agility, and at every motion dinplaying
a clianije of cdIoius almost infinitely varions. We can'Oit alao anion'' tlie rii'''in<r of the
slii|), when we were at tlie distaneo of abont ten leagues from Cajio ]''ini!iterru, sevei-al hirds
whieh have not been deseiihed by Unnieiis ; they were sni)])osed to have come fnmi Sjtain,
and our gentlemen called the species Mulnnlla rc/i/irdiin, as they said none bnt sailors wonld
venture themselves on board a shij) that was going round the world : one of them was so
exiiansted, that it dicil in Mr. Ilanks's hand almost as soon as it was brought to him.

Jt was thought extraoi'dinary that no natuiiilist had hitherto taken notice of the Dmii/sa,
as tlie sea aboiuxls with them not twenty h:igues from the coast of Spain ; bnt, unfortu-
natel}- for the eausti of science, there an; but very few of those who traverse the sea th.it are
eitiier disposed or (pialined to reniark the cuiiosities of which nature has made it the
rejiository.

On the 12tli, we disco verecl the islands of Porto Santo and IVIadeira, and on the next day
anchored in Ftinclial road, and moored with the stream-anchor; bnt, in the night, the bend
of the hawser of the stream-anchor slipped, owing to the negligence of the person who had
heen employed to make it fast. In the morning the anchor was heaved up into the boat,
and carried out to the southward ; but in heaving it again, Mr. Weir, the master's mate, was
carried overboard by the buoy-rope, and went to the bottom with the anchor: the people in
the ship saw the accident, and got the anchor nj) with all jiossilile expedition ; it was, how-
ever, too late ; tl:e body came up entangled in the bnoy-r(*pe. but it v as dead.

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When the island of ^ladeira is first approached from the sea, it has a very beautiful appear-
ance, the sides of the hills being entirely covered with vines almost as high as the eye can
distinguish ; and the vines are green when every kind of herbage, except where they shade
the ground, and here and there by the sides of a rill, is entirely bu' nt up, which was the
case at this time.

On the 13th, about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, a boat, which our sailors call the pro-
duct boat, came on board from the officers of health, without whose permission no person is
suffered to land from on board a ship. As soon as this permission was obtained, we went
on shore at Fiinchal, the capital of the island, and proceeded directly to the house of
Mr. Cheap, who is the English consul there, and one of tlie most considerable merchants of
the place. Tliis gentleman received us with the kindness of a brother, and the liberality of
a prince ; he insisted upon our taking possession of his house, in whieh ho furnished us with
every jiossibic accommodation during our stay upon the island. He procured leave for
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to search the island for such natural curiosities as they should
think worth their notice ; employed jicrsons to take fish and gather shells, which time would
not have jiermitted them to collect for themselves : and he provided horses and guides to take
them to any ])art of the country which they should choose to visit. AVitli all these advan-
tages, however, their excursions were seldom pushed fiirther than three miles from the town.

Si:iT. 17*!JJ.

C:()()K'S FIRST VOYAGK ROUND Till: MORLD.

aa tlu'y wcro only live days on slioro ; oiio ol" wliicli tiny sjniit at lionu-, in iL-ctivin;^' tlio
honiMir of a visit from tlic governor. The season was tlio worst in tlio year for tliiir itnr|)ost',
as it was ncitliiT tliat of plants nor insects ; a few of tlio ])lant<, however, were jiroenred in
flower, by tiie kind attention of Dr. Hebordeii, the chief jdiysician of the island, and hrotlu r
to Dr. lleherden of liondun, who also gave thcni snch specimens as In; had in his jiossessioii,
and a coi)y of his IJotanical Observations ; containing, among other things, a jiarlieular
description of the trees f)f the island. Mr. Hanks incpiired after the wood whieli has heeii
imported into England for cabinet work, and is here called Madeira mahogany : he learned
that no wood was exported from the island nnder that name ; but he found a tree called by
the natives Vigniatico, the L<uinis !ii</!rK.i of Ijinnieus, the woo.' of which camiot easily be
distiimiiished from maho^anv. Dr. Ileberden has a book-case, in which the vi':niatico and
mahogany an; mixed, and they are no otherwise to be known from each other than by the
colour, whieli, upon a nice examination, apjiears to be somewhat less brown in the vigniatico
than the mahogany ; it is, therefore, in the highest degree probable, that the wood known in
Kngland by the name of ^ladeira mahogany is the vigniatico.

There is great reason to supjiose that this whole island was, at some remote period, thrown
up by the explosion of subterraneous fire, as every stone, whether whole or in fragments,
that we saw upon it, appeared to have been burnt, and even the sand itself to be nothing
more than ashes : we did not, indeed, see much of the country, but the people informed us
that what we did see was a very exact specimen of the rest.

The only article of trade in this island is wine ; and the manner in which it is made is so
simple, that it might have been used by Noah, who is said to have i)lanted the first vineyard
after the flood. The grapes are put into a square wooden vessel, the dimensions of which
are jnoiiortioncd to the size of the vineyard to which it belongs ; the servants then, having
taken off their stockings and jackets, get into it, and with their feet and elbows press out as
nnicli of the juice as they can : the stalks arc afterwards collected, and being tied together
vith a rope, arc put nnder a square piece of wood, which is jjressed down upon them by a
lever with a stone tied to the end of it. The inhabitants have made so little improvement
in knowledge or art, that they have but very lately brought all the fruit of a vineyard to bo
of one sort, by engrafting their vines : there seems to be in mind, as there is in matter, a kind
of CIS hu'rliu', which resists the first imi)ulse to change, lie who proposes to assist the arti-
ficer or the husbandman by a now apj)lication of the principles of philosophy, or the i>owers
of mechanism, will find, that his having hitherto done without them will be a stronger
iiiotivo for continuing to do without them still than any advantage, however manifest and
considerable, for adopting the improvement. Wherever there is ignorance there is preju-
dice ; and the common people of all nations are, with respect to improvements, like tlio
parish poor of England with respect to a maintenance, for whom the law must not only
make a provision, but compel them to accept it, or else they will be still found begging in
the streets. It was, therefore, with great diflieulty that the people of ^ladeira were
persuaded to engraft their vines ; and some of them still obstinately refuse to adopt the
practice, though a whole vintage is very often spoiled by tlu; number of bad grapes which
arc mixed in the vat, and which they will not throw out, because they increase tlie quantitv
of the wine : an instance of the force of habit, which is the more extraordinary, as they have
adoi)ted the practice of engrafting with resjieet to their ehesnut-trees, an object of much less
importance, which, however, are thus brought to bear sooner than they would otherwise
have done.

AVe saw no wheel-carriages of any sort in the jdace, which, perhaps, is not more owing to
the want of ingenuity to invent them than to the want of industry to mend the roads, wliieli
at present it is imjiossible that any wheel-carriage should pass. The Inhabitants have horses
and mules, indeed, excellently adapted to such ways ; but their wine is, notwithstandinir,
brought to town from the vineyards where it is made in vessels of goat-skins, which are
carried by men ujion their heads. The oidy imitation of a carriage amonsf these peo])Io is a
board, made somewhat hollow in the middle, to one end of which a jiole is tied bv a strap
of whit-leather. This wretched sledge approaches about as near to an English cart as an
ludiau canoe to a ship's long-boat ; and even this would probably never have been tlioUL'ht

COOKS FIIIST VOYAGE ROUND THE ^VOIlLD.

8kpt. 17'i8.

of, if tlic En;{liMli had not introduced wiuc-vcssels, which arc too hi;,' to he carried hy hand,
and which, tlicrcfore, are dragged ahout the town nj)on thcHo niacliiniH.

Ono reason, ])erhaps, why art and inihistry have done so little for INfadeira, i.x, nature's
liaving done ho much. The ^oil i*< very rich ; and there is sucii a difVennee of eliniute
hetwien the ]>hiins and the hill:*, tliat there is scarcely a single olyeet of luxury that grows
either in Eur()])e or the Indies that might not he produced here. When we went to visit
Dr. llebcrden, who lives upon a considerahle ascent, ahout two miles from town, we left the
thermometer at 74, and when we arrived at his house, we found it at (t(j. The hills pro-
duce, almost spontaneously, w;ilnuts, chcsnnts, and apples in great abundance ; and in the
town there are many plants which are the natives both of the East and West Indies, parti-
cularly the banana, the guava, the i)ine-apple or anana, and the mango, which flourish almost
without culture. The corn of this country is of a most excellent quality, large-grained and
very fine, and the island would juoduce it in great jdenty ; yet most of what is consumed
by the inhabitants is imi)orted. The mutton, jiork, and beef arc also very good ; the l>cef,
in particular, which we took on l)oard here, was universally allowed to be scarcely inferior
to our own ; the lean part w.is very like it, both in coloiu* and grain, though the beasts are
much smaller ; hut the fat is as white as the fat of mutton.

The town of Funchal derives its name from Finic/io, the Portuguese name for fennel, whicli
grows in great ])lenty upon the neighbouring rocks ; and by the observation of Dr. Ileberden,
lies in the latitude of ',\2" ',V,V M,'l \., and longitude U!" 4i)' W. It is situated in the bottom
of a bay, and though larger than the, extent of the island seems to ueserve, is very ill built :
the houses of the principal inhabitants are large, tliose of the connnon peoj)le are small ; the
streets are narrow, and worse paved than any I ever saw. The churches are loaded with
ornaments, among which are many i)ictures, and images of favourite saints ; but the pictures
are in general wretchedly painted, and the saints are dressed in laced clothes. Some of the
convents are in a better taste, especially that of the Franciscans, which is plain, simple, and
neat in the highest degree. The infirmary in particular drew our attention as a model which
might bo adojjted in other countries with great advantage. It consists of a long room, on
one side of which are the windows, and an altar for the convenience of administering the
sacrament to the sick : the other side is divided into wards, each of which is just big enough
to contain a bed, and neatly lined with gally-tiles ; behind these wards, and parallel to the
room in which they stand, there runs a long gallery, with which each ward communicates
hy a door, so that the sick may be separately supplied with whatever they want without
disturbing their neighbours. In this convent there is also a singidar curiosity of another
kind ; a small chapel, the whole lining of which, both sides and ceiling, is composed of
human sculls and thigh-bones ; the thigh-bones are laid across each other, and a scull is
])laced in each of the four angles. Among the sculls one is very remarkable ; the upper and
the lower jaw, on one side, perfectly and finuly cohere : how the ossification which unites
them was formed it is not, perhaps, very easy fo conceive ; but it is certain that the ])atient
must have lived some time without opening hiy r.iouth : what nourishment he received was
conveyed through a hole, which we discover*' I to liave been made on the other side, by
forcing out some of the teeth, in doing which ihe jaw also seems to have been injured.

We visited the good fathers of this convent on a Thursday evening, just before supper-
time, and they received us with great politeness : " We will not ask you," said they, " to
.eup with us, because we are not prepared ; but if you will come to-morrow, though it is a
fast with us, we will have a turkey roasted for you." This invitation, which showed a libe-
rality of sentiment not to have been expected in a convent of Portuguese friars at this i)Iace,
gratified us much, though it was not in our power to accept it.

Wc visited also a convent of nuns, dedicated to Santa Clam, and the ladies did us the
honour to express a particular pleasure in seeing us there : they had heard that there were
great philosophers among us, and not at all knowing what were the objects of philosophical
knowledge, they asked us several questions that were absurd and extravagant in the highest
degree. One was, when it would thunder ; and another, whether a spring of fresh water
was to be found anywhere within the walls of their convent, of which it seems they were in
great want. It will naturally be supposed that our answers to such questions were neither

8kpt. ITOl!.

COOK'S FIKST V0Y.\<;E ROUND THE WOllLn.

satisfiictory to tlio ladit-.i; nor, in their intimation, honoiiraMe to us; yet tlitir (lisa]iii<)iiit-
intiit ilid not in flu; least IcMscn tliiir civility, ami t!iry talkud, witlioiit ceasing, ilnriny tlio
wliolc of our visit, wliicli la>ste(l al)out lialf an litiur.

Tlio liills of tliia country are very high ; the liighcMt, Pico Ruivo, rises ilOdM feet, near an
Ku;;li«Ii mile, pirpendieularly from itd ba-«o, which is much higher than any laud that has
been measured in Great liritain. The ft'ulcH of these hills are covercil with vines to a certain
Iieight, ahovo which there are woods of che<*nut and pine of imnu'Usu extent; and almve
them forests of wild timber of various kinds, nxt known in Kurope ; jiartieuiarly two, ealh d
by the Portuguese Miniiiihino and I'dolitiio-o, the h aves of both which, particularly the
Paiil>runco, are so beautiful, that these trees would be a great, ornament to the gardens of
Kuro|)e.

The nuujber of inhabitants in this island is supposed to be about }!(>,(>()(); and the custom-
jiouse tbities produce a revenue to the king of i'ortugal of 2(),(((M>/. a year, clear of all
expenses, which might easily be doubled by the product of the island, exclusive of the vines,
if advantage was taken of the excelUnce <>f the climate and the amazing fertility of the soil ;
but this object is utterly neglected by the Portuguese. In the trade of the inhabitants of
^Madeira with I^isbon the balance is against them, so that all the Portuguese money natu-
rally going thither, the currency of the island is .Spanish : there are, indeed, a few Portugueso
pieces of co])per, but they are si> scarce that we did not si-e one of them. The Spanish coin
is of three denominations : pistcrecns, worth about a shilling ; bitts, worth about t^ixpence ;
and half-bitts, threepence.

The tides at this place flow at the full and change of the moon, north and south ; tho
spring-tides rise seven feet perpendicular, and the neap-tides, four. By Dr. lleberden's
observation, the variation of the compass here is now 1 .*i " 30' west, and decreasing; but I
have some doubt whether he is not mistaken with resjRct to its decrease : wo found that the
north point of the dii)i)ing-ncedle belonging to the Koyal Society dipped 77 I^ '•

The refreshments to be had here are water, wine, fruit of several sorts, onions in plenty,
and some sweetmeats; fresh meat and poultry are not to be had without leave from the
governor, and the payment of a very hii;h price.

We took in 27(Mb. of fresh beef, ?nd a live bullock, charged at ()131b., 3032 gallons of
water, and ten tons of wine ; and in '-he night, between Sunday the 18th, and Monday the
]J)th of September, we set sail in prosecution of our voyage.

When Funclial bore north, 13 cast, at the di:;tancc of 7l> miles, the variation appeared by
several azimuths to be IG" 30' west.

CHAPTER II. THE PASSAGE FROM MADERIA TO RIO DE JANEIRO, WITH SOME ACCODNT OP

THE COLNTUV, AND THE INCIDENTS TUAT UAPl'ENED THERE.

On the 21st of September we saw the islands called the Salvages, to the north of the
Canaries ; when the principal of these bore S. \ AV. at the distance of about five leagues,
we found the variation of the compass by an azimuth to be 17' -jO. I make these islands
to lie in latitude 30' 11' north, and distant 53 leagues from Funchal in Madeira, in tho
direction of S. 1(5 E.

On Friday the 23d wo saw the Peak of Teneriffe bearing AV. by S. ^ S. and found the
variation of the compass to be from 17" 22' to 10' 30'. The height of this mountain, from
which I took a new departure, has been determined by Dr. Ilcberdcn, who has been upon
it, to bo ir»,31)6 feet, which is but 143 yards less than three miles, reckoning the mile at
17<)0 yards. Its appearance at sunset was very striking; when the sun wis below tho
horizon, and the rest of the island appeared of a deep black, the mountain still reflected his
rays, and glowed with a warmth of colour which no painting can express. There is no
eruption of visible fire from it, but a heat issues from the chinks near tho top, too strong to
be borne by the hand when it is held near them. We had received from Dr. Ilcberden,

NKBBBI

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 17<)3.

among other favours, some siilt which he collected on the top of the mountain, where it is
found in largo quantities, and which he supposes to be the true «a/r»/// nr iiitnim of the
ancients : ho gave us also some native sulphur exceedingly pure, which he had likewise
found upon the surface in great jilrnty.

'I'KNE.tiFFE — from tlic Sea.

On the next day, Saturday the 24tli, we came into the north-cast trade wind, and on
Friday the 30th saw Bona Vista, one of the CajJ do Verd islands ; we ranged the east side
of it, at the distance of three or four miles from the shore, till we were obliged to haul oft"
to avoid a ledge of rocks which stretch out S.W. by "W. from the bodj-, or S.E. point of the
island, to the extent of a league and a half. Bona Vista, by our observation, lies in latitude
16 N. and longitude 21" C)\ west.

On the 1st of October, in latitude 14" 6 N. and longitude 22" 10' W. wo found the vari-
ation by a very good azimuth to be 10" 37' W. and the next morning it appeared to be 10'.
This day we found the ship five miles a-head of the log, and the next day seven. On the
third, hoisted out the boat to discover whether there was a current, and found one to the
eastward, at the rate of throe quarters of a mile an hour.

During our course from TencrilVe to Bona Vista we saw great numbers of flying fish,
which from the cabin windows appear beautiful beyond imagination, their sides having the
colour and brightness of buni'-hcd silver ; when they are seen from the deck they do not
appr.>ar to so much advantage, because their backs are of a dark colour. "We also took a
shark, which pi v. ed to bo the S(jiic:liis Cdrcharlas of Linr.a'us.

Having lost tlu trade wind on the 3d, in latitude 12" 1-/ , and longitude 22" 10', the wind
became somewhat variable, and we had light airs and calms by turns.

On the 7th Jfr. Banks wont out in the boat and took wliat the seamen call a Portuguese
man-of-war ; it is the Ilolut/iinid P/u/salls of Linntrus, and i species of the Molliixca. ^t
consisted of a small bladder about seven inches long, very much resembling the air bladder
of fishes, fi'om the bottom of which descended a number of strings, of a bright blue and red,
some of t!>om three or four fett in h-ngth, wiiich, upon being touched, sting like a nettle,
but with mvch uore force. On the top of the bladder is a membrane which is used as a
sail, and turned so as to receive the wind woieli way soever it blows : this membrane is
marked in fine ])ink-coloured vtins, and the animal is in every respect an object exquisitely
curicius and bcuutiiul.

We also took several of the shell-fishes, or testaceous animals, which .arc always found
floating upon the water, particularly tlie Ileliv Janthlna and fiohtcca ; they are ab't-' the
size of a snail, and arc supported upon the surface of the water by a small cluster of bubbles,
which are filled with air, and consist of a tenacious slimy substance tliat will not easily part
with its content^! ; the animal is oviparous, and these bubbles serve also as a uihis for its eggs.
Jt is probable that it never goes dov.n to the bottom, nor willingly ajiproaches any shore; for
tlic shell is exceedingly brittle, and that of few fresh-water snails is so thin : cvcrv shell

Nov. 17<!f?.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

wind

iiigncso
tea. ^t
Iblailtler
pul red,
nettle,
[cd as a
Iranc is
[aisitely

found
r- the
[ubbles,
lly piirt

Its egn;s.
Ire; for
rv shell

contains about a tcaspoonful of liquor, which it easily discharges upon being touched, and
wiiich is of the most beautiful red jiurple that can be conceived. It dyes linen clotli, and it
may perhaps be wortli inquiry, as the shell is certainly found in the Mediterranean, whether
it be not the Purpura of the ancients.

On the 8th, in latitude 8" 25' nortli, longitude 22" 4 west, wc found a current setting to
the southward, which the next day in latitude 7" ;">}$', longiinde 22" 13', shifted to the N.N. W.
a W., at the rate of one mile and a furlong an hour. Tlie variation here, by the mean of
several azimuths, appeared to be 8" 30' W.

On the 10th, M' . Banks shot the black-toed gull, not yet described according to Linnreus's
system ; he gave it tli name of Larus crcphhttits : it is remarkable that the dung o" this
bird is of a lively red, somcwliat like that of the liquor procured from the shells, only not
sc full ; its principal food therefore is probably tb' //<//.(; just mentioned. A current to tlio
N.W. prevailed more or less till Monday the 24th, when we were in latitude 1" 7' N., and
longitude 28" 50'.

On the 25th wo crossed the line with the usual ceremonies, in ki'.gitude 29" 3C", when, by
the result of several very good azimuths, the variation was 2' 24.

On tiie 28th, at noon, being in the latitude of Ferdinand JToronha, and, by the mean of
several observations by Mr. Green and myself, in longitiule 32' 5' 10' W., which is to the
westward of it by some charts, and to the eastward by otliers, we expected to see the island,
or some of the shoals that are laid down in the charts between it and the main, but wc saw
neither one nor the other.

In the evening of the 29th, we observed that luminous appearance of the sea which has
been so often mentioned by navigators, anu of which sucli various causes have been assigned;
some supposing it to be occasioned by fish, which agitated the water by darting at their
prey, some by the putrefaction of fish and other marine animals, some by electricity, and
others referring it into a great variety of different causes. It appeared to emit flashes of
light exactly resembling those of lightning, only not so considerable ; but they were so
frequent, that sometimes eight or ten were visible almost at the same moment. We were
of opinion tliat they proceeded from some luminous animal, and upon throwing out the
casJMig net our opinion was confirmed : it brought up a S|:ecics of the Medimt, which, when
it can>o )n board, had the appearance of metal violently heated, and emitted a white light ;
witl» iliise animals were taken some very small crabs, of three different species, eacii of
which gave as much light as a glow-worm, though the creature was not so large by nine
tentlis : upon examination of these animals ^Ir. Banks had the satisfaction to find tliat they
were all entirely new.

On Wedncsilay, the 2d of November, about noon, being in the latitude of 10' 38' S., and
longitude 32" 13' .3' W., we p.issed the line In which the needle at tbis time would have
pointed due north and south, without any variation : for in the morning, having decreased
gradually in its deviation for some days, it was no more than 18' W., nnd in the afternoon
it was 34' east.

On the (jth, being in la*^if".lo 19' 3' south, longitude 35" 50' west, tho colour of the water
was observed to change, upon which we sounded, and found ground at the depth of 32
fathoms : the lead was cast three times wit'"<n .ibout four hours, without a foot difference
in the depth or quality of tho bottom, wbici was coral rock, fine sand, and shells ; wo
therefore supjiosed that we had passed over ilie tail of the great shoal which is laid down in
all our charts by the name of Af>ro//ios, on wliich Lord Anson struck soundings in his passage
outwards : at four tlie n;.xt morning we had no ground with 100 fathom.

As several articles of our stock and provisions now began to fall short, I determined to
put into Kio de Janeiro, rather tlian at any i)ort in Brazil or Falkland's Islands, knowing
that it could better supply us with what wc wanted, and making no doubt but that wo
should be well received.

On the 8tli, at day-break, we saw the coast of Brazil, and about ten o'clock w brought
to, and s])ok(! with a fisliing-boat : tlie i)eo])le on board told us that t!ie land whit ii we saw
lay to the southward of Santo Esi)irito, bu^ belonging to the captainship of that place.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on board this vessel, in which tiiey found eleven men,

T'Tiii

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Nov. 1700.

; i

nine of whom were blacks : tlicy all Hslicd with lines ; and their fresh cargo, the chief part
of which 3Ir. Banks bought, consisted of dolphins, largo pelagic sconibers of two kinds, sea-
bream, and some of the tisli which, in the West Indies, arc called Welshmen. Mr. Banks
had taken Spanish silver with him, which he inagined to be the cnrrency of the continent,
but to his great surprise the pcojilc a'-ked him for Englisli shillings ; he gave them two,
which he iiajipened to have about him, and it was not without some disput-; that they took
the rest of the money in pistereens. Their business seemed to be to catch large fish at a
good distance from the shore, which they salted in bulk, in a place made for that purpose in'
the middle of their boat : of this merchandize they had about two quintals on board, which
they offered for about 10 shillings, and would probably have sold for half the money. The
fresh fish, which was bought for about nineteen shillings and sixpence, served the whole
ship's company : the salt was not wanted.

The sea-provision of these fishermen consisted of nothing more than a cask of water, and
a bag of Cassada flour, which they called Farin/ia de Pao, or wooden flour ; which, indeed,
is a name which very well suits its taste and appearance. Their water-cask was large, as
wide as their boat, and exactly fitted a place that was made for it in the ballast ; it was
impossible therefore to draw out any of its conients by a tap, the sides being, from the
bottom to the top, wholly inaccessible ; neither could any be taken out by dipi)ing a vessel
in at tlie head, for an opening sufficiently wide for that purpose wouhl have endangered the
loss of great part of it by the rolling of the vessel : their expedient to get at their water, so
situated, was curious ; when one of them wanted to drink, he ajiplied to his neighbour, whi-
accompanied him to the water-cask With a hollow cane about three feet long, wliioh as
open at both ends; this he thrust into the cask through a small hole in the to)), .1
then, stopping the upper end with the palm of his hand, drew it out ; the pressure of tho
air against the other end keeping in the water whicli it contained ; to this end the person
who wanted to drink applied his mouth, and the assistant then taking his hand from the
other, and admitting tlie air above, the cane immediately parted with its contents, which
the drinker drew off till he was satisfied.

We stood off and on along the shore till the 12th, and succ ^ssively saw a remarkable hill
near Santo Espirito, then Cape St. Thomas, and then an island just without Cape Trio,
which in some maps is called the Island of Frio, and which being high, with a hollow in tho
middle, has the appearance of two islands when seen at a distance. On this day we stood
along the shore for Rio de Janeiro, and at nine the next morning mau*} sail for the harbour.
I then sent Mr. Ilicks, my first lieutenant, before us in the pinnace, up to the city, to
acquaint the governor that we put in there to procure water and refreshments, and to desire
the assistance of a pilot to bring us into proper anchoring-ground. I continued to stand up
the river, trusting to Mr. Bellish'tf draught, published in the Petit Atlas Maritime, vol. II.
No. 54, which we found vory good, till five o clock in the evening, expecting the return of
my lieutenant ; and just as I was about to anchor above the island of Cobras, which lies before
the city, the pinnace came back without him,havingon board a Portuguese officer, but no pilot.
Tlie people in the boat told me that my lieutenant was detained by tho viceroy iili 1 should
go on shore. We came immediately to an anchor, and almost at tiie same time a ten-oared
boat, lull of soldiers, come up and kept rowing round the ship, without ixclianging a word :
in less tlian a quarter of an hour another boat came on board with several of the viceroy's
othci , wiio asked whence we came, what was our cargo, the number of men and guns on
board, the object of our voyage, and several other questions, which we directly and truly
answered : they then told me, as a kind of apology for detaining my lieutenant, and putting
m orticer on bo^rd my pinnance, that it was the invariable custom of tlie place, to detain
the first officer who came on shore from any ship on licr arrival, till a boat from tho viceroy
had visit<^<l her, and to suffer no boat to go either from or to a ship, while she lay there,
without having a soldier on board. They said that I might go on shore when I ph>ased ;
but wished tliat every other person might remain on board till the jiapcr which they should
draw up had been delivered to tlie viceroy, promis^iug that, immediately upon their return,
tlie lieutenant should be sent on board.

This promise was perfornud ; and on the next morning, the 11th, I went on fihore, and

)V.

1708.

Nov. 17CC.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ilOUND THE WORLD.

liief part
nd>>, sea-
r. IJanks
jntinent,
icm two,
liey took
iish at a
iirposo in'
(1, which
iy. Tho
ho whole

ater, and
1, indeed,
large, as
t ; it was
from tho
T a vessel
gered tho
water, so
jour, who
fhu'h as
top, -
lU'C of tho
,he person
[ from the
its, which

^kablo hill

ape Frio,

ow in tho

we stood

! harbour.

city, to

to desire

stand np

'., vol. II.

return of

ies before

no pilot.

I should
Itcn-oarcd

a word :

viceroy's

i ofuns on
knd truly
d putting

to detain
Lo viceroy
py there,

pleased ;
■ey sliould
|r return,

horo, and

-■■.*■>

obtained It.. 'C of the viceroy to purchase provisions and refreshments for the ship, pro-
vided I would employ one of tlieir own people as a factor, but not otherwise. 1 mailo
some objections to this, but he insisted upon it as the custom of the ])laee. I objected also
against tlie putting a soldier into the boat every time she wen^ between the shij) and tho
shore; but he told me, that this was done by the express orders of his court, with which
lie could in no case dispense. I then requested, that the gentlemen whom I had on board
might reside on shore during our stay, and that ]\Ir. Banks might go up the country to
gather plants; but this he absolutely refused. I judged from his extreme caution, and tho
severity of tliese restrictions, that he suspected wo were come to trade ; I therefore took
some pains to convince him of tho contrary. I told him, that we were bound to the south-
ward, by the order of his Britannic iMajcsty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over
the sun, an astronomical phenomenon of great importance to navigation. Of the transit of
Venus, however, he could form no other conception, than that it was the passing of tho
north star through the south pole ; for these are tho very words of bis interpreter, who was
a Swede, and spoke English very well. I did not think it necessary to ask permission for
the gentlemen to come on shore during the day, or that, when I was on sliore myself, I
miglit be at liberty, taking for granted that nothing was intended to the contrary ; but in
this I was unfortunately mistaken. As soon as I took leave of his excellency, I ftmnd an
officer who had orders to attend me wlierever I went : of this I desired an explanation, and
was cold that it wiis meant as a compliment. I earnestly desired to be exeuse(i from
accepting such an honour, but the good viceroy would by no means sulFer it to bo dis-
pensed with.

With this officer, therefore, I returned on board about twelve o'clock, where I was
impatiently expected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who made no doubt but tliat a fair
.account of us having been given by the officers who had been on board the evening before,
in their paper called a Pradica, and every scruple of the viceroy removed in mj 'jonference
with his excellency, they should immediately bo at liberty +0 go on shore, and dispoi," of
themselves as they pleased. Their disappointment at receiving my rei)ort may easily bo
conceived ; and it was still increased by an account, that it had been resolved, not only to
prevent their residing on shore, and going up tho country, but even their leaving the ship ;
orders having been given that no person, except the captain, and such common sailors as
were required to bo upon duty, should be permitted to land ; and that there was probably
a particular view to the passengers in this prohibition, as they were reported to be gentle-
men sent abroad to make observations and discoveries, and were uncommonly qualified for
that purpose. In the evening, liowever, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander dressed themselves,
and attempted to go on shore, in order to make a visit to the viceroy ; but they were
stopped by the guard-boat which had come oflf with our pinnace, and which kept hovering
round tlic ship all tho while she lay here, for that purpose ; the officer on board saying,
that he had particular orders, which he could not disobey, to suffijr no passenger, nor any
officer, except the caj^tain, to pass the boat. After much expostulation to no purpose, they
wore obliged, with whatever reluct.anee and mortification, to return >.n board. I then went
un shore myself, but found the viceroy inflexible ; he had one answer ready for everything
I could say, that the restrictions under which he had laid us were in obedience to the King
of Portugal's conmiands, and therefore indispensable.

Ill I his situation I determined, rather than bo made a prisoner in my own boat, to go on
shore no more; for the officer who, under pretence of ii comidiment, attended mo when I
was ashore, insisted also upon going with me to and from the ship : but still imagining,
that the scrupulous vigilance of the viceroy must proceed from some mistaken notion about
ns, which might Uiorc easily be removed by writing than in conversation, I drew uj) a
memorial, and Mr. Banks drew up another, which we sent on shore. These memorials
were both answered, but by no means to our satisfaction ; we therefore replied : in con-
sequence of which, several other papers were interchanged between us and tho viceroy, but
still without effi'ct. However, as I thought some degree of force, on the ])art of tho
viceroy, to enforce these restrictions, necessary to justify my acquiescence in them to tlio
Admiralty, I gave orders to my lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, when I sent him with our last reply

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Nov. ]7(5»-

:|i

on Suinlay the 2(>tli, in the evening, not to suft'er a guard to bo put into liis boat. Wlien
the officer on board the guard-boat found that JNIr. Ilicks was determined to obey my
orders, he did not proceed to force, but attended him to the landing-place, and reported the
matter to the viceroy. Upon this his excellency refused to receive the memorial, and
ordered 3Ir. Ilicks to return to the ship ; when he came back to the boat, lie found tiiat a,
guard had been put on board in his absence, but he absolutely refused to return till the
soldier was removed : the officer then proceeded to enforce the viceroy's orders ; he seized
all the boat's crew, and sent them under an armed force to prison, putting Mr. Ilicks, at'
the same time, into one of their own boats, and sending him under a guard back to the
ship. As soon as he had reported these particulars, I wrote again to the viceroy, demanding
my boat and crew, and in my letter inclosed the memorial which he had refused to receive
from Mr. Ilicks? : these pai)ers I sent by a petty officer, that I might wave the dispute
about a guard, against which I had never objected cxce]>t when there was a commissione<l
officer on board the boat. The petty officer was permitted to go on shore with his guard,
and, having delivered his letter, was told that an answer would be sent the next day.

About eight o'clock this evening it beg.an to blow very hard in sudden gusts from the
south, and our long-boat coming on board just at this time with four pipes of rum, the
rope which was thrown to her from the ship, and which was taken hold of by the people
on board, unfortunately br^ ! \ ^nd the boat, which had come to the ship before the wind,
went adrift to windward of '.i: a a small skiff of Mr. Banks's that was fastened to her

stern. Tliis was a great misfori as the pinnace being detained on shore, we had no boat

on board but a four-oared yawl : tiie yawl, however, was immediately manned and sent to
her assistance ; but, notwithstanding the utmost effort of the people in both boats, they were
very soon out of sight : far, indeed, we could not see at that time in the evening, but the
distance was enough to convince us that they were not imder command, which gave us great
imcasincss, as we knew they must drive directly upon a reef of rocks which ran out just to
leeward of where we lay : after waiting some hours in the utmost anxiety, we gave them
over for lost, but. about three o'clock the next morning, had the satisfaction to see all the
people come on board in the yawl. From them we learnt, that the longboat having filled
with water, they had brought her to a grappling, and left her ; and that, having fallen in
with the reef of rocks in her return to the ship, they had been obliged to cut Air. Banks's
little boat adrift. As the loss of our long-boat, which we had now too much reason to
apprehend, would have been an unspeakable disadvantage to ns, considering the nature of
our expcflition, I sent another letter to the viceroy, as soon as I thought he could be seen,
acquainting him with our misfortune, and requesting the assistance of a boat from the shore
for the recovery of our own ; I also renewed my demand that the jiinnacc and her crew
should be no longer detained : after some delay, his excellency thought fit to comply both
with my request and demand ; and the same day we ha]ipily recovered both the long-boat
and skiff, with the rum, but everything else that was on board was lost. On the 2!^rd, the
viceroy, in his answer to my remonstrance against seizing my men and detaining the boat,
acknowledged that I had been treated with some incivility, but said that the resistance of
my officers to what he had declared to be the king's orders made it absolutely necessary;
lie also expressed some doubts whether the Endeavour, considering her structure and other
circumstances, was in the service of his majesty, though I had before showed him my com-
mission : to this I answered in writing, that, to remove .all scru]>los, I was ready to produce
my commis--ion again. His excellency's scruples, however, still remained, and in his reply
to my letter, he not only expressed them in still plainer terms, but accused my people of
smuggling. This charge, I am confident, was without the least foundation in truth.
Mr. Banks's servants had, indeed, found means to go on shore on the 22ud at daybreak, and
stay till it was dark in the evening, but they brought on board only plants and insects,
having been sent for no other purpose. And I had the greatest reason to believe that not
a single articlt; was smui;gled by any of our people who were admitted on shore, though
many artful means wore used to tempt them, even l)y the very officers that were under his
excellency's roof, which made the charge still more injurious and provoking. I have, indeed,
eouie reason to susj)ect that one poor fellow bought a m\g\{i bottle of rum with some of tlnj-

IV.

]70«.

Dec. 1700.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGE ROUND THE >rORLD.

AVheii
bey my
»rted tlio
rial, ami
1(1 tliat a
1 till the
lie seized
licks, af
;;k to the
nianding
receive
! dispute
nissioned
lis guard,

from the
rum, tlie
lie i)eople
the wind,
led to her
d no boat
id sent to
they were
5, but the
e us great
lut just to
;ave them
see all the
^iiifr filled
J fallen in
Banks's
reason to
nature of
1 be seen,
the shore
her crew
iply both
long-boat
23rd, the
the boat,
istance of
icccssary ;
ind other
I my com-
produce
J his reply
{people of
In truth.
|-cak, and
insects,
that not
,, though
Inider his
indeed,
kie of tlur

clothes upon his back ; and in my answer I requested of his excellency, that, if such an
attempt at illicit trade shoiild be repeated, he would without scruple order the offender to
be taken into custody. And thus ended our altercation, both by conference and writing,
with the viceroy of Rio de Janeiro.

A friar in the town having requested the assistance of our surgeon. Dr. Solander easily
got admittance in that character on the 2r)th, and received many marks of civility from the
people. On the 2()th, before daybreak, Mr. Banks also found means to elude tiie vigilance
of le peoi)le in tlie guard-boat, aiul got on shore ; he did not, however, go into the town,
for tlie principal objects of his curiosity were to be found in the fields : to him also the
))eoplo behaved with great civilit}', many of them invited him to their houses, and ho
bought a porker and some other things of them for the slii])'s company; the porker, which
was by no means lean, cost him eleven shillings, and he paid something less than two for
a iMuscovy duck.

Oil the 27th, when the boats returned from watering, the people told us there was a
rejjort in town, that search was making after some persons who had been on shore from the
sliip without the vic>'roy's j^ermission : these persons we conjectured to be Dr. Solander and
Mr. Banks, and therefore they determined to go on sliore no more.

On the 1st of Decembur, having got our water and other necessaries on board, I sent to
the viceroy for a pilot to carry us to sea, who came off to ns ; but the wind preventing \\a
from getting out, we took on board a plentiful supply of fresh beef, yams, and greens for
the ship's company. On the 2nd, a Spanish packet arrived with letters from Buenos Ayrcs
for Spain, commanded by Don Antonio de ]\Ionto Negro y Velasco, who with great polite-
ness offered to take our letters to Europe : T accepted the favour, and gave him a packet for
the secretary of the Admiralty, containing cojjies of all the papers that had passed between
nic and the viceroy ; leaving also duplicates with the viceroy, to be by him forwarded to
Lisbon.

On Monday, the 5th, it being a dead calm, we weighed anchor and towed down the bay ;
but, to our great astonishment, when we got abreast of Santa Cruz, the i)rincipal fortifica-
tion, two shot were fired at us. We immediately cast anchor, and sent to the fort to
inquire the reason of what had happened ; our people brought us word, that the commandant
had received no order from the viceroy to let us pass, and that, without such an order, no
vessel was ever suffered to go below the fort. It was now, therefore, become necessary that
wc should send to tlie viceroy, to inquire why the necessary order had not been given, as he
had notice of our departure, and had thought fit to write me a polite letter, wishing me a
good voyage. Our messenger soon returned with an account, that the order had been
written some days, but, by an imaccountable negligence, not .sent.

We did not get under sail till the 7th ; and, when we had passed the fort, tlic pilot desired
to be discharged. As soon as he was dismissed, wc were left by our guard-boat, which had
hovered about us from the first hour of our being in this place to the last ; and Mr. Banks,
having been prevented from going ashore at Itio de Janeiro, availed himself of her departure
to examine the neighbouring islands, where, particularly on one in the mouth of the harbour,
called Ra/,;i lie gathered many species of plants, and caught a variety of insects.

It is rem.i.kable, that, during the last three or four days of our staying in this harbour,
the air was loaded with butterflies : they were chiefly of one sort, but in such numbers that
thousands were in view in every direction, and the greatest ])art of them above our mast-head.

We lay here from the 14th of November to the 7th of December, something more than
three weeks, during which time 31 r. j\Ionkiiouse, our surgeon, was on shore every day to
buy our provisions ; Dr. Solander was on shore once ; I was several times on shore myself;
and Sir. Banks also found means to get into the country, notwithstanding the watch that
was set over us. I shall, therefore, with the intelligence obtained from these gentlemen, and
my own observations, give some account of the town, and the country adjacent.

Rio de Janeiro, or the river of Januarius, was probably so called from its having been
discovered on the feast-day of that saint; and the town, which is the capital of the I'ortu-
guesc dominions in America, derives its name from the river, which, indeed, is rather an arm
of the sea, for it did not appear to receive any considerable stream of fresh water : it standa

UiMM

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1708.

on a plain, close to the shore, on the we.-it siJo of the bay, at the foot of several high
mountains whicli rise behind it. It is neither ill designed nor ill built : the houses, in
general, arc of stone, and two stories high ; every house having, after the manner of the
Portuguese, a little balcony before its windows, and a lattice of wood before the balcony. I
computed its circuit to be about three miles ; for it appears to be equal in size to the largest
country towns in England, Bristol and Liverpool not excepted : the streets are straight, and
of a convenient breadth, intersecting each other at right angles ; the greater part, however,
lie in a line with the citadel called St. Sebastian, which stands on the top of a hill that
commands the town.

BAV OF HIO DE JANEIRO.

If-I

It in supplied with water from the neighbouring hills, by an aqueduct, which is raised
upon two stories of arches, and is said in some places to be at a great height from the
ground, from which the water is conveyed by pipes into a fountain in the great sf^juare that
exactly fronts the viceroy's palace. At this fountain great numbers of people are continually
waiting for their turn to draw water ; and the soldiers, who arc posted at the govenior'a
door, find it very difficult to maintain any regularity among them. The water at this
fountain, however, is so bad, that we, who liad been two months af: .sea, confined to that in
our casks, which was almost always foul, could not drink it with pleasure. Water of a
better quality is laid into some other part of the town, but I could not learn by what
means.

The churches are very fine, and there is more religious parade in this place than in any
of the Popish countries in Europe : there is a procession of some parish every day, with
variovis insignia, all splendid and costly in the highest degree : they beg money, and say
prayers in great form, at the corner of every street.

While we lay here, one of the churches was re-buildins ; and to defray the expense, the
parish to which it belonged had leave to beg in procession through the whole city once a
week, by whicli very considerable sums were collected. At this ceremony, which was
performed by night, all the boys of a certain age were obliged to assist, the sons of gentle-
men not being excused. Each of these boys was dressed in a black cassock, with a short
red cloak hanging about as low as the waist, and carried in his hand a pole about six or
seven feet long, at the end of which was tied a lantern : the number of lantcnis was generally

J (

Dec. ITfin.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE M'ORLD.

above two liundrcJ, and the light they gave was so great, that the people who saw it from
the cabin windows thought the town had been on fire.

The inhabitants, however, may pay their devotions at the shrine of any saint in tlio
calendar, without waiting till there is a procession ; for before almost every hoiisc there is a
little cupboard, furnished with a glass window, in w'lieh one of these tutelary powers is
waiting to be gracious ; and to pi'evcnt his being out of mind, by being out of sight, a lamp
is kept constantly burning before the window of his tabernacle in the night. The people,
indeed, are by no means remiss in their devotions, for before these saints they pray and sing
hymns with such vehemence, that in the night they were very distinctly heard on board the
ship, though she Iny at the distance of at least half a mile from the town.

The government here, as to its form, is mixed ; it is notwithstanding very despotic in fact.
It consists of the viceroy, the governor of the town, and a council, the number of which I
could not learn : witlumt the consent of this council, in which the viceroy has a casting vote,
no judicial act should bo performed ; yet both the viceroy and governor frequently commit
persons to prison at their own pleasure, and sometimes send them to Lisbon, without
acquainting their friends or family with what is laid to their charge, or where they may be
found.

To restrain the people from travelling into the country, and getting into any district where
gold or diamonds may be found, of both which there is much more than the government can
otherwise secure, certain bounds are prescribed them, at the discretion of the viceroy,
sometimes at a few, and sometimes at many miles' distance from the city, On the verge of
these limits a guard constantly patroles, and whoever is found beyond it is immediately
seized and thrown into jirison ; and if a man is, upon any pretence, taken up by the guard
without the limits, he will be sent to prison, though it should appear that he did not know
their extent.

Tlic inhabitants, who are very numerous, consist of Portuguese, negroes, and Indians, the
original natives of the country. The township of Rio, which, as I was told, is but a small
part of the Capitanea, or province, is said to contain 37,000 white persons, and G29,(MI0
blacks, many of whom are free ; making together ()66,000, in the proportion of seventeen to
one. The Indians, who are employed to do the king's work in this neighbourhood, can
scarcely be considered as inhabitants ; their residence is at a distance, from whence they
come by turns to their task, which they are obliged to perform for a small pay. The guard-
boat was constantly rowed by these people, who are of a light copper colour, and have long-
black hair.

The military establishment here consists of twelve regiments of regular troops, six of
which arc Portuguese and six Creoles; and twelve other regiments of provincial militia.
To the regulars the inhabitants behave with the utmost humility and submission ; and I
was told, that if any of them should neglect to take oflF his hat upon meeting an officer, he
would immediately be knocked down. These haughty severities render the people extremely
civil to any stranger who has the appearance of a gentleman. But the subordination of the
officers themselves to the viceroy is enforced with circumstances equally mortifying, for they
are obliged to attend in his hall three times every day to ask his commands ; the answer
constantly is, " There is nothing new." I have been told, that this servile attendance is
exacted to prevent their going into the country; and if so, it eflfectually answers tlio
purpose.

It is, I believe, universally allowed, that the women, both of the Spanish and Portuguese
settlements in South America, make less difficulty of granting personal favours than those
of any otiicr civilized country in the world. Of the ladies of this town some have formed
so unfavourable an opinion as to declare, that they did not believe there was a modest one
among them. This censure is certainly too general ; but what Dr. Solandcr saw of them
when he was on shore, gave him no very exalted idea of their chastity : he told me, that as
soon as it was dark, one or more of them appeared in every window, and distinguished those
whom they liked, among the gentlemen that walked past them, by giving them nosegays ;
that he, and two gentlemen who were with him, received so many of these favours, that, at
the end of their walk, which was not a long one, they threw whole hatfuls of them away.

(

iiSi-iiassisi^Ssdafei

^^^

-■<;

iri

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dkc. I7fi0.

! I I

Orcat allowance must certainly bo iiiado for local customs; that which in one conntry would
be an indecent familiarity, is a mere act of general courtesy in another ; of the fact, therefore,
which I have related, I shall say not!iing, but that I am confident it is true.

Neither will I take u]>on mc to affirm, tliat murders are frequently committed here ; but
the clinrclics afford an asylum to the criminal : and as our cockswain was one; day lookin"
at two men, who appeared to be talking together in a friendly manner, one of them suddeidy
drew a knife, and stabbed the other ; who not instantly falling, the murderer withdrew tlio
•weapon, and stabbed him r second time. He then ran away, and was pursued by sonio
negroes who were also witnesses of the fact ; but whether ho escaped or was taken I never
heard.

The country, at a small distance round the town, which is all that any of us saw, is
beautiful in the highest degree ; the wildest spots being varied with a greater lu.xurianee of
flowers, both as to number and beauty, than the best gardens in England.

Upon the trccc and bushes sat an almost endless variety of birds, especially small ones,
many of them covered with the most elegant plumage ; among which were the humming-
bird. Of insects, too, there was a great variety, and some of them very beautiful ; but
they were much more nimble than those of Europe, especially the butterflies, most of which
flew near the to])s of the trees, and were, therefore, very difficult to be caught, except when
the sea-breeze blew fresh, which kept them nearer to the ground.

The banks of the sea, and of the small brooks which water this part of the country, arc
almost covered with the small crabs called Cancer vocans; some of these had one of the claws,
called by naturalists the hand, verylarge ; others had them both remarkably small, and of
equal size : a diffi.'rence which is said to distinguish the sexes, that with the large claw
being the male.

There is the appearance of but little cultivation ; the greater part of the land is wholly
uncultivated, and very little care and labour seem to have been bestowed upon the rest ;
tl' :c are, indeed, little patches or gardens, in which many kinds of European garden-stuff
are produced, particularly cabbages, peas, beans, kidney-beans, turnips, and white radishes,
but all much inferior to our own : water-melons and pine-apples arc also produced in these
spots, and they are the only fruits that we saw cultivated, though the country produces
musk melons, oranges, limes, lemons, sweet lemons, citrons, plantains, bananas, mangos,
mamane apples, acajou or cashou apples and nuts ; jamboira of two kinds, one of which
bears a small black fruit ; cocoa-nuts, mangos, palm-nuts of two kinds, one long, the other
round ; and palm-berries ; all which were in season while we were there.

Of these fruits the water-melons and oranges are the best in their kind ; the pine apples are
much inferior to those that I have eaten in England ; they are indeed more juicy and sweet,
but have no flavour : I believe them to be natives of this country, though we heard of none
that at this time grow wild ; they have, however, very little care bestowed upon them, the
plants being set between beds of any kind of garden-stufl', and suffl'red to take the chance
of the season. The melons are still worse — at least those that we tasted, which were
mealy and insipid ; but the water-melons are excellent ; tiiey have a flavour — at least a
degree of acidity — which ours have not. Wo saw also several species of the prickle-pear,
and some European fruits, particularly the apple and peach, botii which were very mealy
and insipid. In these gardens also grow yams and mandihoca, which in the AVcst Indies is
called Cassada or Cassava, and to the flower of which the people here, as I have before
observed, give the name of Farinha de Pao, which may not improperly be translated,
" Powder of Post." The soil, though it produces tobacco and sugar, will not produce
bread-corn ; so that the people here have no wheat-flour but what is brought from Portugal,
and sold at the rate of a shilling a pound, though it is generally spoiled by bc>ing heated in
its passage. JMr. Banks is of opinion that all the products of our West Indian islands
would grow here ; notwithstanding which, the inhabitants import their coffl-e and chocolate
from Lisbon.

Most of the land, as far as we saw of the country, is laid down in grass, upon which
cattle are pastured in great plenty ; but they are so lean, that an Englishman will scarcely
cat of their flesh : the herbage of these pastures consists principally of cresses, and couse-

l\^i

Dec. 17C8.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

•I

qucntly is so short, that thongli it may afford a bite for horses and slicop, it can scarcely bo
grazed by horned cattle in a sufficient quantity to keep tlicni alive.

This country may possibly produce many valuable drugs ; but wo could not find any in
the apothecaries' shojis, except pareira brava and balsam capivi ; both of which were
excellent in their kind, and sold at .» very low jirice. The drug trade is probably carried
on to the northward, as well as that of tlic dyeing woods, for we could get no intelligence of
cither of tliem iiere.

As to manufactures, wo neither saw nor heard of any except that of cotton hammocks,
in which people are carried about here, ns they are with us in sedan chairs ; and these aro
principally? if not wholly, fabricated by the Indians.

The riches of the place consist eliiefly in the mines, which we supposed to lie far up the
country, though we could never learn where, or at what distance ; for the situation is
concealed as much as possible, and troops are continually employed in guarding the roads
that lead to them : it is almost impossible for any man to get a sight of them, except those
who are employed there ; and indeed the strongest curiosity woidd scarcely induce any man
to .attempt it, for whoever is found upon the road to them, if he cannot give undeniable
evidence of his having business there, is immediately hanged up upon the next tree.

Much gold is certainly brought from these mines, but at an expense of life that must
strike every man, to wl'.om custom has not made it familiar, with horror. No less than
forty thousand negroes arc annually imported on the king's account, to dig the mines ; and
we were credibly inf';rmcd that the last year but one before we arrived here, this number fell
so short, probably from some epidemic disease, that twenty thousand more were draughted
from the town of Rio.

Precious stones are also found here in such plenty, that a certain quantity only is allowed
to be collected in a year ; to collect this quantity, a number of people aro sent into the
country where they .are found, and when it is got together, which sometimes happens in a
month, sometimes in less, and sometimes in more, they return ; and after that, whoever is
found in these precious districts, on any pretence, before the next year, is immediately put to
death.

The jewels found here are diamonds, topazes of several kinds, and amethysts. We did
not see any of the diamonds, but were informed that the viceroy h.ad a large quantity by
him, which he would sell on the king of Portugal's account, but not .at a less price than they
are sold for in Europe. ]Mr. Banks bought a few topazes and amethysts as specimens : of
the topazes there arc three sorts, of very different v.alue, which are distinguished here by the
names of Pinga d'agua qualidado primeiro, Pinga d'agua qualidade secundo, and Chryst.allos
armerillos : they are sold, large and small, good and bad Lo 'ether, by octavos, or the eighth
part of an ounce ; the best at 4s. 9d. All dealing, however, in these stones is prohibited to
the suDJect under the severest penalties : there were jewellers here formerly, who pur-
chased and worked them on their own account ; but about fourteen months before our
.arrival, orders came from the court of Portugjil tlitit no more stones should be wrought
here, except on the king's .account : the jewellers were ordered to bring all their tools to
the viceroy, and left without any means of subsistence. The persons employed here to work
stones for the king are shaves.

The coin that is current here is either that of Portugal, consisting chiefly of thirty-six
shillings pieces, or pieces botli of gold and silver, which are struck at this place : the pieces of
silver which are very much debased, are called petacks, and are of different value, and easily
distinguished by the number of rees that is maiivcd on the outside. Here is also a copper
coin, like that in Portugal, of five and ten rce pieces. A ree is a nomin.al coin of Portugal,
ten of which are equ.al in value to about three farthings sterling.

The harbour of llio de Janeiro is situated W. by N. 18 leagues from Cape Frio, and may
bo known by a remarkable hill, in the form of a sugar-lo.af, at the west point of the bay ;
but as all the coast is vory high, and rises in many peaks, the entrance of this harbour ni.ay
be more certainly distinguished by the islands th.at lie before it ; one of which, called
Rodonda, is high and round, like a h.ay stack, and lies at the distance of two leagues and a
half from the entrance of the bay, in the direction of S. by ^V. ; but the first islands which

f -

t i

! :

r I

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. ITOn.

arc met witli, coiiiinf; from the cast, or Capo Frio, arc two tliat have a rocky appearance,
lying near to each other, and at the distance of about four niiK>H from the shore : tlierc arc
also at the distance of tliree k-agues to the westward of these two otlier islands, which lio
near to each other, a little withoiit the bay on the east side, and very near the shore. This
harbour is certainly a i^ood one ; the entrance, indeed, is not wide, but the sea-breeze, which
blows every day from ten or twelve o'clock till sunset, makes it easy for any ship to go ia
before! the wind ; and it grows wider as the town is approached, so that abreast of it there
is room for the largest fleet, in five or si.x fathom water, with an oozy bottom. At the
narrow part, the entrance is defended by two forts. The princijial is Santa Cruz, which
stands on the east point of the bay, and has been mentioned before ; that on the west side
is called fort Lozia, and is built ujion a rock that lies close to the main ; the distance
between them is about three quarters of a mile, but the channel is not quite so broad, because
there are sunken rocks which lio otV each fort, and in this part alone there is danger : tho
narrov/ncss of the channel causes the tides, both flood and ebb, to run with considerable
strenjjth, so that tliev cannot be stenuncd without a fresh breeze. The rockiness of tho
bottom makes it also unsafe to anchor here ; but all danger may be avoided by keeping in
the middle of the ch.-vnnel. Within the entrance tho course up the bay is first N. by W,
lialf AV. and N.N.W., something niore than a league ; this will bring the vessel the length
of the great road; and N.W. and AV.X.W. one league more will carry her to the Isle dos
Cobras, which lies before the city : she should then keep tho north side of this island close
on board, and anchor above it, before a monastery of Benedictines, which stands upon a hill
at the N.W. end of the city.

The river, and indeed tho whole coast, abounds with a greater variety of fish than we h.id
ever seen ; a day seldom r jsed in which one or more of a new species were not brought
to Mr. Banks : the bay p m is as well ada]ited for catching these fish as can be conceived ; for
it is full of small islands, between which there is shallow water, and proper beaches for
drawing the seine. Tho sea, without the bay, abounds with dolphins, and large mackarel
of difl'erent kinds, which readily bite at a hook, and tho inhabitants always tow one after
their boats for that purpose.

Though the climate is hot, the situation of thib place is certainly wholesome : while we
stayed here the thermometer never rose higher than 83 degrees. Wo had frequent rains,
and once a very hard gale of wind.

Ships water here at the fountain in the great square, though, as I have observed, the
water is not good : they land their casks upon a smooth, sandy beach, which is not more
than a hundred yards distant from the fountain ; and upon application to the viceroy, a
sentinel will bo appointed to look after them, and clear the way to tho fountain where they
are to be filled.

Upon the whole, Rio do Janeiro is a very good place for ships to put in at that want
refreshment: tho harbour is safe and commodious; and pro\isions, except wheaten bread
and flour, may be easily procured : as a succedancum for bread, there arc yams and cassada
in plenty ; beef, both fresh and jerked, may bo bought at about two-pence farthing a pound;
though, as I have before remarked, it is very lean. The people here jerk their beef by
taking out the bones, cutting it into largo but thin slices, then curing it with salt, and
drying it in the shade : it cats very well, and, if kept dry, will rcmt.in good a long time at
sea. JMntton is scarcely to bo procured, and hogs and poultry a- o dear : of garden-stuff
and fruit-trees there is abundance — of which, however, none can )e preserved at sea but
t!i0 pumpkin; rum, sugar, and molasses, all excellent in their i.ind, may be had at a
reason.able price ; tobacco also is cheap, but it is not good. Here is a yard for building
shipping, and a small hulk to heave down by ; for as the tide never rises above six or seven
feet, there is no other way of coming at a ship's bottom.

When the boat which had been sent on shore returned, wc hoisted her on board, and
stood out to sea.

Mil

^lii

► EC. 1700.

Jas. iron.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGK ROUND THE WORLD.

ipcarancc,
tlii'i-c aro
which lio
10. Thia
I'zo, wliah
» to <;o in
of it thtrc
. At the
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c tlistanco
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keeping in
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the length
IP Isle (lo9
aland close
upon a hill

!ian we had
ot brought
ceived ; for
beaches for
3 mackarel
f one after

while we
ucnt rains,

[served, the

not more

viceroy, a

where they

I that want

iten bread

Ind cassada

a pound ;

[ir beef by

li salt, and

Ins time at

irden-stuflf

lat sea but

had at a

)r building

ix or seven

Iboard, and

rnAPTFR III. — THE p.xssAfiF, pnoM mo np. .lANKino to tiik f.ntranmf. op tiif, strait of
ij; MAiuK, WITH A in:s( lui'TioN or so.Mi: op tiik lniiahitants 01" Ti:unA i)i;l rrroo.

O.v tlio Otii of Doceinber wo observed the sea to bo covered witli broad streaks of a
yellowish colour, several of them a niil<> long, and three or four liuiulred yards wide ; some
of the water thus coloured was taken nj), and found to be full of iiuiumerable atoms jiointed
at tlio end, of a yellowish colour, and none more than a quarter of a line, or the fortieth i)art
of an inch long ; in the microscope they ap|ieaied to be faiicirii/l of small fibres interwoven
with each other, not unlike the nidus of some of the P/ij/i/aiicas called Cadilices ; but
whether tliey were animal or vegotablo substances, whcnco they came, or for what they
were designed, ncitlier 3Ir. Danks nor Dr. Solander could guess. Tiie same appearance had
been observed before, when wc first discovered the continent of South America.

On the 11th we hooked a shark, and while we were playing it under the cabin window
it threw out and drew in again, several times, what appeared to be its stomach ; it jiroved
to bo a female, and upon being opened six young ones wore taken out of it ; five of them
were alive and swam briskly in a tub of water, but the sixth appeared to have been dead
some time.

Nothing remarkable happened till the 30tli, except that wo prepared for the bad weather
which wc were shortly to expect, by bending a now suit of sails ; but on this day wo ran a
course of one hundred and sixty miles by the log, through innumerable land insects of various
kinds, some upon the wing and more upon the water, many of which were alive ; they
appeared to be exactly the same with the Carafjl, the Grylli, the Phalancc, Aranca, and
other flies that are seen in England, though at this time we could not be less than thirty
leagues from land ; and some of those insects, particularly the Gri/lli Araiiea, never volun-
tarily leave it at a greater distance than twenty yards. AVo judged ourselves to be now nearly
opposite to /?<///? sans fond, where Mr. Dalrymple supposes there is a passage quite through
the continent of America ; and we thought from the insects that there might be at least a
vory largo river, and that it had overflowed its banks.

On tlie 3d of January, 17^!), being in latitude 47" IT' S. and longitude 61" 29' 45" W.,
we were all looking out for Pepys* island, and for some time an appearance was seen in the
east which so much resembled land, that wc bore away for it, and it was more than two
hours and a half before we were convinced that it was nothing but what sailors call a
fog- bank.

Tho people now beginning to complain of cold, each of them received what is called a
jMagellanic jacket and a pair of trousers. The jacket is made of a thick woollen stufl" called
Fearnought, which is provided by the government. Wo saw, from time to time, a great
number of penguins, albatrosses, and sheerwatcrs, seals, whales, and porpoises ; and on the
1 1th, having passed Fiilkland's islands, wo discovered tho coast of Terra del Fuego, at tho
distance of about four leagues, extending from tho "W. to S.E. by S. We had hero fivo-and-
thirty fathom, the ground soft, small slate stones. As we ranged along the shore to the
S.E., at tho distance of two or three leagues, we perceived smoke in several places, which
was made by the natives, probably as a signal, for they did not continue it after wo had
passed by. This day we discovered that the shijt had got near a degree of longitude to the
westward of the log, which, in this latitude, is 3;> minutes of a degree on tho equator :
probably there is a small current setting to the westward, which may bo caused by the
westerly current coming round Cape Horn, and through the strait of Le Maire, and the
indraught of the strait of Magellan*.

* The celebrated navigator who discovered this strait
was a native of Portupral, and his name, in the langu.igo
of Ills country, was Fernando dc Magalhacns ; tlio
Spaniards call liim Hernando Magalhanes, and tho
Frencli Magellan, which is tho orthngrapliy tliat has

been generally adopted : a gentleman, the fifth in descent
from tliis great adventurer, is now living in ornear London,
and communicated the true name of liis ancestor to Mr.
nanks, with a request that it might be inserted in tliis
work.

I 1

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

.Us. 1700.

Ilavinjt continuoil ti) ran-'o the coast, on the 1 1th wo entered the Htrait of T,e Mairc ; but
the title turniiif^ iitjainst iii ilrove ii3 out with great violence, and raised sneh n sea off C a|>o
iSt. Dienro that the waves liad exactly the wanio ap])earance aH they would have had if they
had hroke over a ledj,'e of rocks ; and when the ship was in tliis torrent she frequently pitched
BO that the bowsprit was nuthr water. About noon wo got un<ler the land between CajM}
St. Diego and Cape .St. Vincent, where I intended to have anchored, but finding the ground
everywhere hard and rocky and shallowing from tiiirty to twelve fathoms, I sent the
master to examine a little cove which lay at a small distance to tlic eastward of Cajie St.
Vincent. Wiien ho returned ho reported that there was anchorage in four fathom, and a
good bottom, close to the eastward of the first blutV point on the east of Cape St. Vincent,
at the very entrance of the cove, to which I gave the name of Vincknt's Bay ; before this
anchoring ground, however, lay several rocky ledges that were covered with sea-weed ; but
I was told that there was not less than eight and nine fathom over all of them. It will
probably be thought strange that where weeds, which grow at the bottom, appear above the
surface, there should be this depth of water ; but the weeds which grow upon rocky ground
in these countries, and which always distinguish it from sand and ooze, are of an
enormous size. The leaves are four feet long, and some of the stalks, though not tliicker
than a man's thumb, above one hundred and twenty. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander
examined sonic of them, over which we sounded and had fourteen fathom, which is eighty-
four feet ; and, as they made a very acute angle with the bottom, they were thought to bo
at least one half longer : the foot stalks were swelled into an air vessel, and Mr. Banks and
Dr. Solander called this plant Fiwiis t/!</aiit(Us. Upon the rejjort of the master I s*ood in
with the ship, but not trusting implicitly to his intelligence I continued to sound, and found
but four fathom upon the first ledge that I went over ; concluding, therefore, that I could
not .anchor here without risk, I determined to seek somo port in the strait, where I might
get on board such wood and water as we wanted.

IVIr. Banks and Dr. Solander, however, being very desirous to go on shore, I i boat

with them and their people, while I kept plying .as near as possible with the shi

Having been on shore four hours they returned about nine in the evening, with aoove an
hundred diflorent plants and flowers, all of them wholly unknown to the V..tanists <\ Europe.
They found the country about the bay to be in general flat, the bottom of it in particular
was a plain covered with grass, which might easily have been made into a large quantity of
hay; tliey found also abundance of good wood and water, and fowl in great plenty. Among
other things of which nature has been liberal in this place, is Winter's bark, Winteranca
aromat'ica ; which may easily be known by its broad leaf, shaped like the laurel, of a light
green colour without and inclining to blue within ; tlie bark is easily stripped with a bone
or stick, and its virtues are well known ; it may be used for culinary purposes as a spice,
and is not less pleasant than wholesome : here is also jdenty of wild celery and scurvy-grass.
Tiio trees are chiefly of one kind, a species of the birch, called Betula antarctica ; the stem
is from tliirty to forty feet long, and from two to three feet in diameter, so that in a case of
noeessity they miglit possibly supply a ship with top-masts j they are of a light white wood,
bear a small leaf, and cleave very straight. Cranberries were also found here in great plenty,
both white and red.

The persons who landed saw none of the inhabitants, but fell in with two of their deserted
lints, one in a thick wood and the other close by the beach.

Having taken the boat on board I made sail into the strait, and at three in the morning
of the ir»th I anchored in twelve fathor« and a half, upon coral rocks, before a small cove,
wnich we took for Port jNIaurice, at f he dist.anco of about half a mile froin the shore. Two
of the natives came down to the beach, expecting ns to land; but this spot afforded so little
shelter that I length determined not to examine it ; I therefore got under sail again about
ten o'clock, and the savages retired into the woods.

At two o'clock we anchored in the bay of Good Success, and after dinner I went on shore,
accompanied by JVIr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to look for a watering-place, and speak to
the Indians, several of whom had come in sight. We landed on tiic starboard side of the
bay near some rocks, which made smooth water and good lauding : thirty or forty of the

Jan. mo.

COOKS FIIIST VOVACE UOIND TIIK WORLD.

IiidianH snon iiiailc tlitir nppcamncc at tlio end of a MUtly hoauli on the other siil.> of tlio
l.ny, l)iit HLiing our minilMT, wliich was tin or twdvc, tlicy rctri-uttd. Mr. liiinkH and
Dr. Solandur tlicii advanced alxmt one Inintlred yards beforo us, ujjon wliich two of tlio
Indians returned, and, having ailvanced some jiaees towards them, sat down : as soon as they
came up the Indians rose, and each of them having a small stick in his hand threw it aw.ny,
in ii direction both from themselves and the strangers, whieli was considered as the renun-
ciation of weapons in token of peace : they then w'alked briskly towards their companions,
who had halted at about fifty yards behind them, and beckoned the gentlemen to follow,
which they did. Thoy were received with many
uncouth signs of friendship ; and, in return, they
distributed among them some beads and ribbons,
which had been brought on shore for that purpose, and
with which they were greatly delighted. A mutual
confidence and good-will being thus produced, our
parties joined : the c(mversation, such as it was,
became general ; and three of them accompanied us
back to the ship. Wlien they came on board, one
of them, whom wo took to be a priest, iH-rformed
much the same ceremonies which M. Bougainville
describes, and supposes to be an exorcism. When
lie was introduced into a new part of the ship, or
when any thing that he liad not seen before caught
his attention, ho shouted with all his force for some
minutes, without directing his voice either x-> us or
his companions.

They ato some bread and some beef, but not apparently with much pleasure, though such
part of what was given them as they did not cat they took away with them ; but they
would not swallow a drop either of wine or spirits : they put the glass to their lips, but,
having tasted the liquor, they returned it, witli strong expressions of disgust. Curiosity
seems to be one of the few passions which distinguisii men from brutes ; and of this our
guests appeared to have very little. Tlicy went from one part of the ship to another, and
looked at the vast variety of new objects that every moment presented themselves, without
any expression either of wonder or i>leasure ; for the vociferation of our exorcist seemed to
be neither. After having been on board about two hours, they expressed a desire to go
ashore. A boat was immediately ordered, and Mr. Banks thought fit to accompany them :
ho landed them in safety, and conducted them to their companions, among whom he
remarked the same vacant indifference, as in those who had been on board ; for as on one
side there appeared no eagerness to relate, so on the other there seemed to be no curiosity
to hear, how they had been received, or what they had seen. In about half an hour, Mr.
Banks returned to the ship, and the Indians retired from the shore.

IIRAD or FUFORAN.

CIIAI'TKU IV. — AN ACCOUNT OF WHAT HAPPENED IN ASCENUINO A MOUNTAIN TO SEAItCIl

Foil PLANTS.

On the Kith, early in the morning, 3Ir. Banks and Dr. Solander, with their attendants
and servants, and two seamen to assist in carrying the baggage, accompanied by Mr. Alonk-
housc the surgeon, and Mr. Green the astronomer, set out from the ship, with a view to
penetrate as far as they could into the country, and return at night. The hills, when
viewed at a distance, seemed to be partly a wood, partly a plain, and above them a bare
rock. Mr. Banks hoped to get through the wood, and made no doubt but that, beyond it,
he ishould, in a country which no botanist had ever yet visited, find alpine plants which

UMtn

I-

III ,

: I

■i '

til

t-,

(■

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1709.

would abundantly compensate his labour. Tliey entered the wood at a small sandy beach,
a little to the westward of the watering-place, and continued to ascend the hill, through the
patliless wilderness, till three o'clock, before tliey got a near view of the places which they
intended to visit. Soon after they reached what they had taken for a plain ; but, to their
great disappointment, found it a swamp, covered with low bushes of birch, about three feet
hi'di, interwoven with each other, and so stubborn tl/at they could not be bent out of the
way; it was therefore necessary to lift the leg ovcj them, which at every step was buried,
ancit deci>, in the soil. To aggravate the pain and difficulty of such travelling, the weather,
which l.ad hitherto been very line, much like one of our bright d.?ys in May, became gloomy
and cold, with sudden blasts of a most piercing wind, accompanied with snow. They
pushed forward, however, in good spirits, notwithstanding their fatigue, hoping the worst
of the way was pr.;t, and that the bare rock which they had seen from the tops of the lower
hills was not more than a mile before them ; but when they had got about two-thirds over
this woody swamp, Mr. Buchan, orie of Mr. Banks's draughtsmen, was unhappily seized
with a fit. This made it necessary for the whole company to halt, and as it was imposaible
that he should go any farther, a fire was kindled, and those who were most fatigued were
left behind to take care of him. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, ]Mr. Green, and Mr. Monk-
house went on, and in a short time reached the summit. As botanists, their expectations
were here abundantly gratified; for they found a great variety of plants, which, withrP0i)ect
to the alpine plants in Europe, are exactly what those plants are with respect to ."".ch as
grow in the plr in.

The cold was now become more' severe, and the snow-blasts more frcqu-'it; the day also
was so far spent, that it was found impossible to get back to the ship before the next
morning : to pass the night upon such a mountain, in such a cliuiate, was not only com-
fortless, but dreadful ; it was impossible, however, to be avoided, and they were to provide
for it as well as they could.

JMr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while they were improving an opportunity which they had
with 30 much danger and difficulty procured, by gathering the plants which they found
upon the mountain, oent Mr. Green and Mr. Monkhonse back to Mr. Buehan and the
peoi)le that were with him, with directions to bring them to a liill, which they thought lay
in a better route for returning to the wood, and which was therefore appointed as a general
rendezvous. It was proposed, that from this hill they should push througl;. the swamp,
which seemed by the new route not to bo more than half-a-mile ovtr, into f\\e shelter of tho
wood, and there build their wigwam, and make a fire : this, as their way ^vas all down liill,
it seemed easy to accomplish. Their whole company assembled at the rendezvous, and,
though pinched with the cold, were in h .ilth and sjiirits, Sir. Buchan himself having
recovered his strength in a much greater degree than could liave been expected. It was now
near eight o'clock in the evening, but stiil good d.vyiight, and they set forward for the
nearest valley, JNIr. Banks himself undertaking to bring 'ip the rear, and see that no strag-
gler was left behind : this may, pcrliaps, be thought a superfluous caution, but it will soon
appear to be otherwise. Dr. Solander, who had more than once crossed the mountains
which divide Sweden from Xoi'vay, well know that extreme cold, iispecially when joined
with fatigue, produces a torpor and sleepiness that are almost irresistible : he therefore
conjured the company to keep moving, whatever pain it mig't cost them, and whatever
relief they might be promised by an inclination to rest. Whoever sits down, says he, will
sleep ; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more. Thus, at once admonished and alarmed,
tiioy set forward ; but while they were still iqwn the naked rock, and before they had got
among the bushes, the cold bucamo suddenly so intense, as to produce the cHeets that had
been most dreaded. Dr. Solander himself Wtis the first wiio found the inclination, against
which lie had warned others, irresistible; and insisted upon being suffered to lie down.
Jlr. Banks entreated and remonstrated in vain : down he lay upon the ground, ;hough it
was covered with snow ; and it was with great difficulty tliat his friend kept him from
slee})ing. Rielimonil, also, one of the black servants, began to linger, having su.fered from
the cold in the same manner as the (^ottor. Mr. Banks, therefore, sent five of the company,
among whom was Mr. Buchan, forward to get a fire ready at the first convenient place

f t

Tan. 17C9.

idy bcacli,
iroiigh the
diich they
it, to their

three feet
out of the
ras buried,
e weather,
ne gloomy
w. They

the worst
' the lower
;hirds over
pily seized
imposyible
gued were
dr. jMonk-
cpectations
ith recjject

to f'lch as

le day also
:e the next
only com-
to provide

li they had

they found

|n and the

nought lay

fe a general

ic swamp,

liter of the

down I'.ill,

krous, and,

elf having

was now

rd for the

t no strag-

, will soon

mountains

len joined

therefore

whatever

'S he, will

alarmed,

y had got

that had

, against

down.

Jan. irCP.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

"''i

:liough it

lini from
ered from
company,

cut place

they could find ; and himself, with four others, remained wich the doctor and Richmond,
whcm, partly by persuasion and entreaty, and partly by force, they brought on ; but when
they had got through the greatest pnrt of tlu birch and swamp, they both declared they
corld go no farther. Mr. Banks had recourse again to entreaty and expostulation, but
they produced no effect : wIk n Richmond was told, tliat if he did not go on he would in o,
short time be frozen to death, ho answered, that he desired nothing but to lie down and die :
the doctor did not so explicitly renounce his life ; he said he was willing to go on, but that
he must first take some sleep, though ho had before told the company that to sleep was to
perish. Mr. Banks and the rest found it impossible to carry them, and there being no
remedy, they were both suffered to sit down, being jiartly sui)po.';tcd by the bushes, and in
a few minutes they fell into a profound slee]> : soon after, some of the people who had been
sent forward, returned, witii the welcome news that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a
mile fartlier on the way. IMr. Banks then endeavoured to wake Dr. Solander, and happily
succeeded : but, though he had not slept five minutes, he had almost lost tlie use of his
limbs, and the muscles were l-o shrunk that his shois fell from his feet. lie consented to go
forward with such assistance as could be given him, but no attempts to relievo poor
Richmond were 3ucces:<ful. It being foimd inijjossible to make him stir, after some time
had been lost in the attempt; Mr. Banks left his other black servani and a seaman, who
seemed to have suffered least from the cold, to look after him ; promising, that as soon as
two others sliould be sufficiently warmed, they should be relieved. Mr. Banks, with much
difficulty, at length got the doctor to the fire ; and soon after sent two of the people who
had been refreshed, in hopes that, with the assistance of those wiio had been left behind,
they would bo able to bring Richmond, even though it should still be found impossible to
wake him. In about half an hour, however, they had the mortification to see these two
men return alone : they said, that they had been all round the place to which they had
been directed, but could neither find Richmond nor tliosc wlio had been left with him ; and
that tliough they had shouted many times, no voice had replied. This was mutter of erpial
surprise and concern, particularly to Mr. Banks, who, while ho was wondering how it
could happen, missed a bottle of rum, the company's whole stock, which they now con-
cluded to be in the knapsack of one of the absentees. li was conjectured, tliat with this
Richmond had been roused by the two persons who had been left with him, and that,
having perhaps drank too freely of it tliemselves, they had all rambled from the place where
they had been left, in search of the fire, instead of waiting for those who should have been
their assistants and guides. Another fall of snow now came on, and contimied incessantly
for two hours, so that all hope of seeing them again, at least alive, were gi\en up ; but about
twelve o'clock, to the great joy of those at the fire, a shouting was heard at some distance.
Mr. Banks, with four more, immediately went out, and found the seaman with just strength
enough left to stagger along, and call out for assistance ; Mr. Banks sent him immediately
to the fire, and, by his direction, proceeded in search of the other two, whom he soon after
found. Richmond was upon his legs, but not able to put one before the other : his com-
panion WPS lying upon the ground, as insensible as a stone. All hands were now called
from the fire, and an attempt was made to carry them to it ; but this, notwithstanding tlio
united efforts of tlie whole company, was found to bo impossible. The night was extremely
dark, the snow was now very deep, and, under th( so additional di .antages, they found
it very difficult to make way through the buslies and the bog for luemselves, all of them
getting many falls in the attempt. The only alternative was to make a fire upon the spot ;
but the snow which had fallen, and was still falling, besides what was every moment
shaken in Hakes from the trees, rendered it equally impracticable to kiudle one there and
to bring any part of that which had been kindled in the wood thither : they were, there-
fore, reduced to the sad necessity of leaving the imhappy wretches to their fate ; havinof
first made then> a bed of boughs from the trees, and spread a covering of the same kind over
them, to a considerable height. Having now been exposed to the cold and tlie snow near
an hour and a half, some of the rest began to lose their sensibility ; and one, Briscoe,
another of Mr. Banks's servants, was so ill, that it was thought he must die before he could
be got to the file.

': \

ii n

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,
tlioy arrived ; .ind passed the night

Jan. 1769.

however, at length they arrived ; and passed the night in a situation, which,
however dreadful in itself, was rendered more afflicting by the remembrance of what was
past, and the uncertainty of what w^as to come. Of twelve, the number that set out
togetlier in healtli and spirits, two w^ere supposed to be already dead ; a third was so ill,
that it was very doubtful whether he would be able to go forward in the morning ; and a
fourth, ^Ir. Buchan, was in danger of a return of liis fitf, by fresh fatigue, after so uncom-
fortable a night : they were di:$tant from the sliip a long day's journey, through pathless
woods, in which it was too probable they miglit be bewildered till they were overtaken by
the next night ; and, not having ])repared for a journey of more than eight or ten hours,
tlioy were wliolly destitute of provisions, except a vulture, which they happened to shoot
while tliey were out, and whicli, if equally divided, would not afford each of them half a
meal ; and they knew not how much more they might suffer from the cold, as the snow
still CDutinucd to fall. A dreadful testimony of the severity of the climate, as it was now
the midst of summer in this part of the world, the twenty-first of December being Iiere the
longest day ; and everything might justly be dreaded from a phenomenon which, in the
corresponding season, is unknown even in Norway and Lapland.

Wlien the morning dawned, they saw nothing round them, as far as the eye could reach,
but snow, which seemed to lie as thick upon tho trees as upon the ground ; and the blasts
returned so frequently, and with such violence, that they found it impossible for them to set
out : how long this might last they knew not, and they had but too much reason to appre-
hend that it would confine them in that desolate forest till they perished with hunger and
cold. After having suffered the misery -,ud terror of this situation till six o'clock in the
morning, they conceived some hope of del vo'-ance by discovering tho place of the sun through
t'.u clouds, which were become thinner, and began to brejik away. Their first care was to
see whether the poor wretches whom they had been obliged to leave among the bushes were
yet alive : three of the company were despatched for that purpose, and very soon afterwards
returned with the melancholy news that they were dead.

Notwithstanding the flattering appearance of the sky, the snow still continued to fall so
thick that they could not venture out on their journey to the ship ; but about eight o'clock
a small regular breeze sprung up, which, with the prevailing influence of the sun, at length
cleared the air ; and they soon after, with great joy, saw the snow fall in large flakes from
the trees, a certain sign of an apjiroaching thaw. They now examined more critically the
state of their invalids : Briscoe was still very ill, but said that he thought himseit able to
walk ; and Mr. Buchan was much better than either he or his friends had any reason to
expect. They were now, however, jwessed by the calls of hunger, to which, after long fast-
ing, every consideration of future good or evil immediately gives way. Before they set
forward, therefore, it was unanimously agreed that they should eat their vulture : the bird
was accordingly skinnetl, and it being thought best to divide it before it was fit to I " eaten,
it was cut into ten portions, and every man cooked his own as he thought fit. After this
repast, which furnished each of them with about three niouthfuls, they prepared to set out ;
but it was ten o'clock before the snow was sufficiently gone off to render a march practicable.
After a walk of about three hours, they were very agieeably surprised to find themselves
upon the beach, and much nearer to the ship than they had any reason to expect. Upon
reviewing their track from the vessel, they perceived that, instead of ascending the hill in a
line, so as to penetrate into the country, they had made ahnost a circle round it. When
they came on board, they congratulated each other upon their safety with a joy that no man
can feel who has not been exposed to eipiul danger ; and as I had suffered great anxiety at
their not returning in the evening of the day on which they set out, I was not wholly with-
out my share.

, I

Jan. 1769.

ion, wliicli,
wliat was
at set out
was so ill,
ing ; and a
so unconi-
;h pathless
crtakcn by
■ ten hours,
;d to shoot
hem half a
s the snow
it was now
ng here the
lich, in the

ould reach,
1 the blasts
them to set
n to appre-
hunger and
lock in the
lun through
care was to
bushes were
afterwards

ad to fall so

|ight o'clock

at length

akes from

itically the

ieif able to

reason to

long fast-

they set

the bird

eaten.

After this

o set out ;

(racticablo.

lemsclves

Upon

10 hill in a

Wh«!n

at no man

anxiety at

oily with-

■Km.

J IN. i7oa,

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

'^f

CHAPTER V. 'TrJE PASSAGE TIIROUfill THE STRAIT OP IE MAIttE, AND A FURTnE!. PESCniP-

TION OP THE lNnAmTANT.S OF TEUUA DEL FUEGO AND ITS PRODUCTIONS.

On the 18th and lOtli, wo wcio delayed in getting on board our wood and water by a
swell ; but on the 20th, the weather being more moderate, we again sent the boat on shore,
and Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander wont in it. They landed in the bottom of the bay ; and
while my people were employed in cutting brooms, they pursued tiieir great object, tho
imjirovement of natural knowledge, with success, collecting many shells and plants which
hitherto have been altogether unknown. They came on board to dinner, and afterwards
went again on shore to visit an Indian town, which some of the people itad reported to lie
about two miles uj) tho country. They found the distance not more than by the account,
and they approached it by what appeared to be the common road ; yet tliey were above an
hour in getting ttiithcr, for they were frequently up to their knees in mud. When they
got within a small distance, two of tho people came out to meet them, with such state as
they could assume. When they joined them, they began to halloo as they had done on
board the ship, without addressing themselves fither to the strangers or their companions ;

fUKOKAN VILLAGE.

and having continued this strange vociferation for some time, they conducted them to the town.
It was situated on a dry knoll, or small hill, covered with wood, none of wliich seemed to
have been cleared away, and consisted of about twelve or fourteen hovels, of the most rudo
and inartificial structure that can bo imagined. They were nothing more than a few poles
set up so as to incline towards each other, and meet at the top, forming a kind of a cone,
like .some of our bee-hives : on tho weather-side they were covered with a few boughs and
a little grass, and on the lee-side about one-eighth of the circle was left open, both for a door

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE \rORLD.

Jan. 1760.

wore

huts that had hcen seen in St. Vincent's bay, in
one of which the embers of a fire were still remaining. Fiirniture they had none ; a little
grass, which lay round the inside of the hovel, served both for chairs and beds ; and of all
the utensils which necessity and ingenuity have concurred to produce among other savago
nations, they saw only a basket to carry in the hand, a satchel to hang at the back, and the
bladder of some beast to hold water, which the natives drink through a hole that is made
near the top for that purpose.

The inhabitants of this town were a sm.all tribe, not more than fifty in number, of both
sexes and of cvcry age. Their colour resembles that of the rust of iron uii.\( I with oil, and
they have long black hair : the men are large, but clumsily built ; their stature is from five
feet eight to five feet ten : the women are much less, few of them being more than five feet
high. Their whole apparel consists of the skin of a guanoco *, or seal, which is thrown over
their shoulders, exactly in the state in which it came from the animal's back ; a piece of the
same skin, which is drawn over their feet, and gathered about the ancles like a purse, and a
small flap, which is worn by the women as a succedaneum for a fig-leaf. The men wear
their cloak open ; the women tie it about their waist with a thong ; but although they are
coutciit to be naked, they are very ambitious to be fine. Their faces were painted in various
forms ; the region of the eye was in general white, and the rest of the face adorned with
horizontal streaks of red and black ; yet scarcely any two were exactly alike. This decora-
tion seems to be more profuse and elaborate upon particular occasions; for the two gentle-
men who introduced Mr. Banks and the doctor into the town, were almost covered with
streaks of black in all directions, sb as to make a very striking appearance. Both men and
women wore bracelets of such beads as they could make themselves of small shells or bones ;
the women both upon their wrists and ancles, the men upon their wrists only ; but to com-
pensate fur the want of bracelets on their legs, they wore a kind of fillet of brown worsted
round their heads. They seemed to set a particular value upon anything that was red, and
preferred beads even to a knife or a hatchet.

Their language in general is guttural, and they express some of their words by a sound
exactly like that which we make to clear the throat when anything happens to obstruct it ;
yet they have words that would be deemed soft in the better languages of Europe. ]\rr. Banks
learnt what he supposes to be their name for beads and water. When they wanted beads,
instead of ribbons or other trifles, they said hallecii ; and when they were taken on shore
from the ship, and by signs asked where water might bo found, they made the sign of drink-
ing, and pointing as well to the casks as the watering-place, cried Oodd.

We saw no ap[)earanee of their having any food but shell-fish ; for though seals were
frequently seen near the shore, they seemed to have no implements for taking them. The
shell-fish is collected by the women, whose business it seems to be to attend at low water,
with basket in one hand, and a stick, pointed and barbed, in tiie other, and a satchel at
their backs. Tiiey loosen the limpets and other fish that adhere to the rocks with the stick,
and put them into the basket, which, when full, tliey empty into the satchei.

Tiie only things that we found among tlioin, in which there was the least appearance of
neatness or ingenuity, were their weapons, w Iiich c ;iisisted of a bow and arrows. The bow
was not inelegantly made, and the arrows were tlic neatest tliat w'c had over seen : they
were of wood, polished to the highest degree ; and tlie jioint, wliieli was of glass or flint, and
barbed, was formed and fitted with wonderful dexterity. AVe saw also some pieces of glass
and flint among them unwrouglit, besides rings, buttons, cloth, and canvass, with other
European commodities ; they must, therefore, sometimes travel to the northward, for it is

• " The gmnoco, by some natmalists, is considered
as the Siiiiie animal witli tlic llama, but in its uild
state, is tlie Sniiili Amcr can representative of the camel
of the East. In sizi v may be compared to nn ass,
mounted on taller legs, and with a very long neck. The
j,'uanoco abounds over tlic whole of tlie tenipcrate parts of
Sonili Amerie.i, from tlie wooded islands of Terra del
I'lit;"!!, thtougli I'ata^'onia, the hilly paits of La I'lata,
Chili, even to the Cordillera of Peru. Although prefer-

ring an elevated i-itc, it yields in this respect to its near
relative the vicuna. On the jilains of southern Patagonia
we saw them in greater numlicrs than in any other part.
Cniierally tlicy go in ■ ill lieids, from half-a-dozen to
thirty togelhcr ; but on tlie banks of the St. Cri.z we saw
one lierd wliicli must Irive contained at least live hundred.
On llic nortliern shon if the Strait of Jlagellan tliev are
also veiy mimerous." — Darwi't, in Surveyiny Voyaycs
of the Adventure '.■£</ licayle.

Jan. 17GD.

Jan. 17G9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

it's bcay, in
ic ; a littlu
and of all
ther savage
ck, and tlio
lat is made

er, of both
ith oil, and
is from five
an five feet
lirown over
piece of the
urse, and a
> men wear
gh they are
1 in various
lorncd with
rhis decora-
two gentle-
jvored with
th men and
Is or bones ;
but to com-
wn worsted
/as red, and

by a sound
obstruct it ;
]Mr. Banks
ntcd beads,
|en on shore
n of drink-
seals were
lem. The
low water,
satchel at
|h the stick,

icarance of
The bow

peen : they
flint, and

ces of glass
Iwith other

rd, for it is

pet to its near
oi'ii Patagonia
liy otiicr part,
jilf-a-ilo7,cn to
1. Cn,7. wo saw
Itivc linndi'i'd.
i'lian tlu'v ai(>
iini/ Voyages

many years since any ship has been so far south as this part of Terra del Fucgo "Wo
observed, also, that they showed no surprise at our fire-arms, with the use of which they
appeared to be well acquainted ; for they made signs to Mr. Banks to shoot a seal which
followed the boat, as they were going on shore from the ship.

M. de Bougainville, who, in January, 17(58, just one year before us, had been on shore
upon this coast in latitude 53° 40' 41", had, among other things given glass to the people
whom he found here ; for he says, that a boy about twelve years old took it into his head
to cat some of it. By this unhappy accident he died in great misery ; but the endeavours
of the good father, the French ainnotiicr, were more successful tlian those of the surgeon;
for tliough the surgeon could not save his life, the charitable priest found means to steal a
Christian baptism upon him so secretly, that none of his pagan relations knew anything of
the matter. These people might probably have some of the very glass which Bougainville
left behind him, either from other natives, or perhaps from himself; for they appeared rather
to be a travelling horde than to have any fixed habitation. Their houses are built to stand
but for a short time. Tliey have no utensil or furniture but the basket and satchel, which
have been mentioned before, and which have handles adapted to the carrying them about,
in the hand and upon the back. The only clothing they had here was scarcely sufficient to
prevent their perishing with cold in the summer of this country, much less in the extreme
severity of winter. The shell-fish, which seems to be their only food, must soon be
exhausted at any one place ; and we had seen houses upon what appeared to be a deserted
station in St. Vincent's Bay. It is also probable that the place where we found them was
only a temporary residence, from their having here nothing like a boat or canoe, of which it
can scarcely be supposed that they were wholly destitute, especially as they were not sea-
sick, or particularly affected, either in our boat or on board the ship. We conjectured that
there might bo a strait or inlet, running from the sea through great part of this island, from
the Strait of Magellan, whence these people might come, leaving their canoes where such
inh't terminated.

They did not appear to have among them any government or subordination : none was
more respected than another ; yet they seemed to live together in the utmost harmony and
good fellowship. Neither did we discover any appearanco of religion among them, except
tlie noises which have been mentioned, and which we supposed to be a superstitious
ceremony, merely because we could refer them to nothing else : they were used only by one
of those who came on board the ship, and the two who conducted Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander to the town, whom we therefore conjectured to be priests. Upon the wl;';le, these
people appear to be the most destitute and forlorn, as well as the most stupid, of all human
beings ; the outcasts of nature, who spent their lives in wandering about the dreary wastes,
where two of our people perished with cold in the midst of summer ; with no dwelling but
a wretched hovel of sticks and grass, which would not only admit the wind, but the snow
and the rain ; almost naked ; and destitute of every convenience that is furnished by the rudest
art, having no implement even to dress their food : yet they were content. They seemed to
have no wish for anything more than they possessed, nor did anything that wo offered
them appear acceptable but beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. Wliat bodily pain
they might suffer from the severities of their winter we could not know ; but it is certain
that they suffered nothing from tlic want of the innumerable articles which we consider not
as the luxuries and conveniencies only but the necessaries of life : as their desires are few,
they probably enjoy them all ; and how much they may be gainers by an exemption from
the care, labour, and solicitude, which arise from a perpetual and unsuccessful effort to
gratify that infinite variety of desires wliich the refinements of artificial life have produced
among us, is not very easy to determine : possibly this may counterbalance all the real
disadvantages of their situation in comparison with ours, and make the scales by which good
and evil .are distributed to man hang even between us.

In this place we saw no quadruped except seals, sea-lions, and dogs : of the dogs it is
remarkable that tliey I)ark, wliich those that arc originally bred in America do not. And
this is a further proof, that the people we saw here had, either immediately or remotely,
communicated with the inhabitants of Europe. There are, however, other quadrupeds in

i
1 !•
I (1

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1769.

this part of the country ; for when iMr. Banks was at the top of the highest hill that he
ascended in his expedition through the woods, he saw the footsteps of a large beast imprinted
U])on the surface of a bog, though he could not with any probability guess of what kind it
might be.

or land-birds there arc but few : IMr. Banks saw none larger than an English blackbird,
except sonio hawks and a vulture ; but of water-fowl there is great plenty, particularly
ducks. Of fish we saw scarce any, and with our hooks could catch none that was fit to eat ;
but shell-fish, limpets, clams, and mussels, were to be found in abundance. Among {lie
insects, which were not numerous, there was neither gnat nor musquito, nor any other
species that was either hurtful or troublesome, which perhaps is more than can be sai«l of any
other uncleared country. During the snow-blasts, which happened every day while we
were hero, they hide themselves ; and the moment it is fair they appear again, as nimble
and vigorous as the warmest weather could make them.

Of plants, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found a vast variety, the far greater part wholly
different from any that have been hitherto described. Besides the birch and winter's bark,
which liave been mentioned already, there is the beech, Fat/us anlarcticiu, which, as well as
the birch, may be used for timber. The plants cannot be enumerated here ; but as the
scurvy-grass, CarJaminc antlscorlutica, and the Avild celery, Aphim antarctlcum^ probably
contain antiscorbutic qualities, which may be of great benefit to the crews of such ships as
shall hereafter touch at this place, the following short description is inserted : — ^The scurvy-
grass will be found in plenty in damp places, near springs of water, and, in general, in all
places that lie near the beach, espdcially at the watering-place in the Bay of Good Success.
When it is young, the state of its greatest perfection, it lies flat upon the ground, having
many leaves of a bright green, standing in pairs opposite to each other, with a single one at
the end, which generally makes tlic fifth upon a foot-stalk. The plant, passing from this
state, shoots up in stalks that are sometimes two feet high, at the top of which are small
white blossoms, and these are succeeded by long pods. The whole plant greatly resembles
that which in England is called lady's smock, or cuckow-flowcr. The wild celery is very
like the celery in our gardens ; the flowers are white, and stand in the same manner, in
small tufts at the top of the branches, but the leaves arc of a deeper green. It grows in
great abundance near the beach, and generally upon the soil that lies next above the spring
tides. It may, indeed, easily be known by the taste, which is between that of celery and
parsley. We used the celery in large quantities, particularly in our soup, which, thus medi-
cated, produced the same good eflects which seamen generally derive from a vegetable diet,
after having been long confined to salt provisions.

On Sunday, the 22d of January, about two o'clock in the morning, having got our wood
and water on board, we sailed out of the bay, and continued our course through the strait.

FUEGEAN CANOE.

Jan. 17C0.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

blackbird,
particularly
s fit to eat ;
tVmong ilie

any other
said of any
|r while we
, as nimble

part wholly

nter's bark,

I, as well as

but as the

», probably

ich ships as

rhe scurvy-

neral, in all

K)d Success.

ind, having

ingle one at

ig from this

:h arc small

y resembles

lery is very

manner, in

It grows in

the spring

celery and

thus medi-

[etable diet,

t our wood
the strait.

CHAPTER Vr. — A GENERAIi DESCRIPTION OP THE S. E. PART OF TERRA DEL FUEOO, AND
THE STRAIT OF LE MAIRE ; WITH SOME REMARKS ON LORD ANSON's ACCOUNT OF Til F,M,
AND DIRKCTIONS FOR TUB PASSAGE WESTWARD, ROUND THIS PART OP AMERICA, INTO
THE SOUTH SEAS.

Alkiost all writers, who have mentioncc! the island of Terra del Fucgo, describe it
as destitute of wood, and covered with snow. In the winter it may possibly be covered
witli snow, and those who saw it at that season might, perhaps, be easily deceived by its
appearance into an opinion that it was destitute of wood. Lord Anson was there in the
beginning of March, which answers to our September, and we were there the beginning of
Janu.ary, which answers to our July, which may account for the difference of his description
of it from ours. We fell in with it about twenty-one leagues to tlie westward of the Strait
of Le Mairc, and from the time that we first saw it, trees were plainly to be distinguished
with our glasses ; and as wo came nearer, though here and there we discovered patches of
snow, the sides of the hills and the sea-coast appeared to be covered with a beautiful verdure.
The hills are lofty, but not mountainous, though the summits of them are quite naked. The
soil in the valleys is rich, and of a considerable depth ; and at the foot of almost every hill
there is a brook, the water of which has a reddish hue, like that which runs through our
turf bogs in England ; but it is by no means ill tasted, and, upon the whole, proved to bo
the best that we took in during our voyage. We ranged the coast to the Strait, and had
soundings all the way from forty to twenty fathom upon a gravelly and sandy bottom. Tho
most remarkable land on Terra del Fuego is a hill in the form of a sugar-loaf, which stands
on the west side, not far from the sea ; and the three hills, called the Three Brothers, about
nine miles to the westward of Cape St. Diego, the low point that forms tho north entrance
of the Strait of Le Maire.

It is said, in the account of Lord Anson's voj'age, that it is difficult to determine exactly
where the strait lies, though tho appearance of Terra del Fuego bo well known, without
knowing also appearance of Staten Land ; and that some navigators have been deceived
by three hills o.. Staten Land, which have been mistaken for the Three Brothers on Terra
del Fuego, and so overshot the strait. But no ship can possibly miss the strait that coasts
Terra del Fuego within sight of land, for it will then of itself be sufficiently conspicuous ;
and Staten Land, which forms the east side, will be still more manifestly distinguished, for
there is no land on Terra del Fuego like it. The Strait of Le Maire can be missed only by
standing too far to the eastward, without keeping the laud of Terra del Fuego in sight. If
this is done, it may be missed, however accurately the appearance of the coast of Staten
Land may have been exhibited ; and if this is not done, it cannot be missed, though tho
appearance of that coast be not known. The entrance of the strait should not be attempted
but with a fair wind and moderate weather, and upon the very beginning of the tide of flood,
which happens here at the full and change of the moon, about one or two o'clock ; it is also
best to keep as near to the Terra del Fuego shore as the winds will admit. By attending to
these particulars, a ship may be got quite through the strait in one tide ; or, at least, to tho
southward of Success Bay, into which it will be more prudent to put, if the wind should bo
southerly, than to attempt the weathering of Staten Land with a lee wind and a current,
which may endanger her being driven on that island.

The Strait itself, which is bounded on the west by Terra del Fuego, and on the east by
the west end of Staten Land, is about five leagues long, and as many broad. Tlio bay of
Good Success lies about the middle of it, on the Terra del Fuego side, and is discovered
immediately upon entering the Strait from the northward : and the south head of it may
be distinguished by a mark on the land that has the appearance of a broad road leading up
from the sea into the country : at the entrance it is half a league wide, and runs in westward
about two miles and a half. Tliere is good anchorage in every part of it, in from ten to
seven fathom, clear ground ; and it affords plenty of exceeding good wood and water. The
tides flow in tho bay, at the full and change of the moon, about four or five o'clock, and
rise about five or six feet perpendicular. But the flood runs two or three hours longer in

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 17C0.

tho Strait than in tho Bay ; and the ebb, or northerly current, runs with nearly double the
strength of the flood.

In the appearance of Statcn Land wo did not discover tho wildness and horror that is
ascribed to it in the account of Lord Anson's voyage. On the north side are the appearances
of bays or harbours ; and the land, when wo saw it, was neither destitute of wood nor
verdure, nor covered with snow. The island seems to be about twelve leagues in length,
and five broad. On the west side of the Cape of Good Success, which forms the S.W.
entrance of the Strait, lies Valentine's Bay, of which we only saw the entrance ; from this
bay the land trends away to the W.S.W. for twenty or thirty leagues ; it appears to be
high and mountainous, and forms several bays and inlets.

At the distance of fourteen leagues from the Bay of Good Success, in the direction
of S.W. J W. and between two or three leagues from tho shore, lies New Island. It ia
about two leagues in length from N. E. to S. W., and terminates to the N. E. ina remark-
able hillock. At the distance of seven leagues from New Island, in the direction of S. W.
lies the Isle Ecoiits; and a little to the W. of the south of this island lie Barnevelt's two
small flat islands, close to each other ; they arc partly surrounded with rocks, which rise
to different heights above the water, and lie twenty-four leagues from the Strait of Le
JVIaire. At the distance of three leagues from Barnevelt's islands, in the direction of S. W.
by S., lies the S. E. point of Hermit's islands : these islands lie S. E. and N. W., and are
pretty high : from most points of view they will be taken for one island, or a part of Mie
main. From the S. E. point of Hermit's islands to Capo Horn the course is S. W. by S.,
distance three leagues.

The appearance of this Cape and Hermit's islands is represented in the chart of this
coast, from our first making land to the Cape, which includes the Strait of Le Maire, and
part of Staten Land. In this chart I have laid down no land, nor traced out any shore but
what I saw myself, and thus far it may be depended upon : the bays and inlets, of which
we saw only the openings, are not traced ; it can, however, scarcely be doubted, but that
most, if not all of them, afford anchorage, wood, and water. The Dutch squadron, com-
manded by Hermit, certainly put into some of them in the year 1024. And it was
Chapenhiim, the vice-admiral of this squadron, who first discovered that the land uf Cape
Horn consisted of a number of islands. The account, however, which those who sailed in
Hermit's fleet have given of these parts is extremely defective ; and those of Schouton and
Le Maire are still worse. It is therefore no wonder that *he charts hitherto published
should be erroneous, not only in laying down the land, but ».. the latitude and longitude of
the places they contain. I will, however, venture to assert, that the longitude of few parts of
the world is better ascertained than that of the Strait of Le Maire and Cape Horn, in the
chart now offered to the public, as it was laid down by several observations of the sun and
moon, that were made both by myself find Mr. Green.

The variation of the compass on this coast I found to be from 23" to 25" E., except near
Barnevelt's islands and Cape Horn, where we found it less, and unsettled : probably it is
disturbed here by the land, as Hermit's squadron, in this very place, found all their com-
passes differ from each other. The declination of the dipping-needle, when set upon shore
in Success Bay, was 68° 15' below the horizon. Between Strait Le Maire and Cape
Horn we found a current setting, generally very strong, to the N. E., when we were in w^ith
the shore ; but lost it when we were at the distance of fifteen or twenty leagues.

On the 26th January, we took our departure from Cape Horn, which lies in latitude
55" 53' S., longitude 68" 13' W. The farthest southern latitude that wo made was
60" Ky, our longitude was then 74^ 30' W. ; and we found the variation of the compass, by
the mean of eighteen azimuths to be 27" 9' E. As the weather was frequently calm, Mr. Banks
went out in a small boat to shoot birds, among which were some albatrosses and sheer-
waters. The albatrosses were observed to be iarger than those which had been taken
northward of the Strait ; one of them measured ten feet two inches from the tip of one
wing to that of the other, when they were extended : the sheerwater, on the contrary, 's
less, and darker coloured on the back. The albatrosses we skinned, and having soaked
them in salt-water till tlie morning, we parboiled them, then throwing away the liquor.

Jan. l7Ca.
Y double the

rror tlmt is
appearances
)f wood nor
9 in length,
ns the S.W.
B ; from this
ipcars to be

he direction
jland. It is
ina remark-
ion of S. W.
•nevclt's two
3, which rise
Strait of Lo
ion of S. W.
W., and are
I part of Mio
S. \V. by S.,

;hart of this

3 Mairc, and

ny shore but

its, of which

ted, but that

ladron, com-

lAnd it was

ind of Capo

10 sailed in

chouton and

published

ongitude of

ew parts of

orn, in the

the sun and

except near

obably it is

their coin-

upon shore

and Cape

rerc in with

in latitude
made was
ompass, by
Mr. Banks
and shcer-
jecn taken
tip of one
contrary, "g
ing soaked
the liquor,

Fun. 1709.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

»1

-I

stewed them in a very little fresh water till they wcrg tender, and had them served up
with savoury sauce ; thus dressed, the dish was universally commended, and wo cat of it
very heartily, even when there was fresh pork upon the ,*,able.

From a variety of observations which were made with great care, it appeared probahlo
in the higlicst degree, that, from the time of our leaving; tho land to the 13tli of February,
when wo were in latitude 49" 32', and longitude 90" 37', wo had no current to the west.

At this time we had advanced about 12" to the westward and 3.^' to the northward of
the Strait of IVIagellan ; having been just three-and-thirty day^t in coming round the land of
Terra del Fuego, or Cape Horn, from the east entrance of the iStrait to this situation. And
tliough tho doubling of Capo Horn is so much dreaded, that, in the general opinion, it ia
inore eligible to pass tlirough tho Strait of ]V[agellan, wo were not once brought under our
close-ruefed topsails after we left the Strait of Lc Mairc. The Dolphin, in her last voyage,
which she performed at the same season of the year with ours, was three months in getting
through the Strait of Magellan, exclusive of tho time that she lay in Port Famine ; and 1
am persuaded, from the winds we had, that if wo had eonie by that passage, we should not
at this time have been in these seas ; that our people would have been fatigued, and our
anchors, cables, sails, and rigging much danuiged ; neither of which inconveniences wo had
now suffered. But, supposing it more eligible to go round the Cape than through tho
Strait of Magellan, it may still be questioned, whether it is better to go through tho
Strait of Le Maire, or stand to the eastward, and go round Statcn Land. The advice given
in the Account of lord Anson's voyage is, " That all ships bound to the South Seas, instead
of passing tlirough the Strait of Le Maire, should constantly pass to the eastward of Staten
Land, and should be invariably bent on running to the southward as far as the latitude of
Gl or (32 degrees, before they endeavour to stand to the westward." But, in my opinion,
different circumstances may at one time render it eligible to pass through the Strait, and to
keep to the eastward of Staten Land at another. If the land is fallen in with to the west-
ward of the Strait, and the wind is favourable for going through, I think it would be very
injudicious to lose time by going round Staten Land, as I am confident that, by attending
to the directions which I have given, the Strait may be passed with the utmost safety and
convenience. But if, on the contrary, the land is fallen in with to the eastward of the
Strait, and the wind should prove tempestuous or unfavourable, I think it would be best to
go round Staten Land. But I cannot in any case concur in recommending the running
into the latitude of 61 or 62, before any endeavour is made to stand to the westward. Wo
found neither the current nor the storms which the running so far to the southward is sup-
posed necessary to avoid ; and, indeed, as the winds almost constantly blow from that
quarter, it is scarcely possible to pursue the advice. The navigator has no choice but to
stand to the southward, close upon a wind, and by keeping upon that tack, he will not only
make southing, but westing ; and, if the wind varies towards the north of the west, his
westing will be considerable. It will, indeed, be highly proper to make sure of a westing
sufficient to double all the lands, before an attempt is made to stand to the northward, and
to this every man's own prudence will of necessity direct him *.

We now began to have strong gales and heavy seas, with irregular intervals of calm and
fine weather.

* The recent Binvoy of the Straits of Miigcllan and
Terra del Fiicgo by Captains King and Fitzroy, lias
removed niiiny of tlic dittinultics whicli embarrassed
former voyagers. Witli rcsjiect to tie passage through
the Straits of Le Maire, Capt. King's opinion is qnite con-
firmatory of tlmt of Capt. Cook. " Prudence, I think,"
says lie, " snggests tiie passage round Staten Land ; yet I
should very reluctantly give up the opportunity tliat might
offer of clearing tlie Sirait, and tlicicfore of being so much
more to windward. With a southerly wind it would not
be advisable to attempt tiie Strait ; for, witli a weather
tide, the sea runs very cross and deep, and might severely
injure and endanger the safety of a small vessel, and to a
larger one do much damage. In calm weather it would bo
still more imprudent (unless the western side of tho

Strait can be reached, where a ship might anchor), on
account of the tides setting over to the Staten Island side ;
where, if it becomes advisable to anchor, it would neces-
sarily be in very deep water, and close to tlie land. With
a northerly wind the route seems not only practicable btit
very advantageous, and it would require some resolution
to give up the opportunity so invitingly offered. I doubt
whether northerly winds, unless they arc very strong,
blow through the Strait— if not, a ship is drifted over to
the cstern shores, where, from the force of tho tides, she
must be quite unmanageable.

" Capt. Fitzroy seems to think there is neither dif-
ficulty nor risk in passing the Strait. The only danger
that does exist, and thntmay bo an imaginary one, is tho
failure of the wind. Ships p.issing through" it from the

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

MAncii, 17GS>.

cnAPTER VII. — Tiir SKarm OP TiiR PAssAnE rnoji cwr. Tionx to the NnwLY-PiscovnnEn

ISLANDS IN THE BOliTlI fSEAS, WITH A DKMUIl'TION OK TIIKIR KKillUE AND ArPKAR-
ANCi;; SOME ACCOUNT OF Till: INIIAllITANTS, AND SEVERAL INf'IDENTS THAT IIAi'i'ENED
DURING THE COURSE, AND AT THE SHIP's ARRIVAL AMONG THEM.

On the first of March, wo wore in latitude .38" 44' S. anil longitude 1 10" 33' W., hoth by
ohservation and by the log. This agreement, after a run of ({(JO leagues, was thought to bo
very extraordinary; and is a demonstration, that after wo left the land of Capo Horn wo
bad no current that affected the ship. It renders it also highly probable, that wo had been
near no land of any considerable extent ; for currents arc always found when land is not
remote, and sometimes, particularly on the cast side of tho continent in the North Sea,
when land has been distant 100 leagues.

IMany birds, as usual, were constantly about tho ship, so that Mr. Banks killed no less
than 62 in one day; and what is more remarkable, ho caught two forest flies, both of them
of the same species, but different from any that have hitherto been described ; these pro-
bably belonged to tho birds, and came with them from the land, which we judged to be at
a great distance. Mr. Banks also, about this time, found a large cuttle-fish, which had just
been killed by the birds, floating in a mangled condition upon the water ; it is very different
from the cuttle-fishes that are found in the European seas ; for its arms, instead of suckers,
were furnished with a double row of very sharp talons, which resemble those of a cat, and,
like them, were retractabl*^ Into a sheath of skin, from which they might be thrust at
pleasure. Of this cuttle-fisii wc made one of the best soups we had ever tasted.

The albatrosses now began to leave us, and after the 8th there was not one to be seen.
Wc continued our course without any memorable event till the 24th, when some of tho
people wlio were upon the watch in the night, reported that they saw a log of wood pass
by the ship ; and that the sea, which was rather rough, became suddenly as smooth as a
mill-pond. It was a general opinion that there was land to windward ; but I did not think
myself tit liberty to search for what I was not sure to find ; though I judged we were not
far from the islands that were discovered by Quiros in l(JO(i. Our latitude was 22° 11' S.
and longitude 12/" ")5' W.

On the 25th, about noon, one of the marines, a young fellow about twenty, was placed
as sentry at the cabin-door ; while he was upon this duty, one of my servants was at tho
same place prep.iring to ci t a piece of seal-skin into tobacco pouches : he had promised one
to several of the men, but had refused one to this j'oung fellow, though he had asked him
several times ; upon whicl he jocularl" threatened to steal one, if it should be in his power.
It happened that the ser\ ant being called hastily away, gave tiie skin in charge to tho
sentinel, without regarding what had passed between them. The sentinel immediately
secured a piece of the skin, which the otiicr missing at his return, grew angry ; but after
some altercation, contented himself with taking it away, declaring that, for so trifling an
affair, he would not complain of him to the oflicers. But it happened that one of bis fellow-
soldiers, overbearing the dispute, came to the knowledge of what had happened, and told
it the rest ; who, taking it into their heads to stand up for the honour of their corps,
reproaelied the offender with great bitterness, and reviled him in the most opprobrious
terms ; they exaggerated bis offence into a crime of the deepest dye ; they said it was a

sontli, are not so liable to the failure of the so<itli-wcst-
erlv wind, imli'ss it be lijilit, ami then a brce/,e will pro-
bably be found from N.W. at the northern end of the
Strait. The anchorage in Good Suocess Bay, however, is
at hand, should the wind or tide fail.''

With rcsiK'ct to tho passage through tho Strait of
Magellan, Capt. King observes: — " By the present si-r-
vey, the navigation through it, iiulepcndent of wind and
weather, hog been rendered much easier — the local dif-

ficulties, therefore, have been removed ; but there remain
much more si^rious ones, which I should not recommend
a large, or even any but a very active and fast-sailing
square-rigged vessel to encounter, unless detention bo not
an object of importance. For small vessels, especially if
they he fore-and-aft rigged, many, if not all, the local
dilTu'ulties vanish." — Surveying Voyages of the Adven-
ture and the lieagle.

Ancii, 17C1).

Aprii., i<

1700.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGK HOUND TFIE WOULD.

n;j

PiscovicnKD

«n Al'PKAU-

IIAl'PKNKD

iV., both by

loiiglit to bo

pc I lorn wo

svo had been

1 land is not

North Sea,

;illcd no loss

■JtM

oth of them

; these pro-

ged to be at

lich had just

ery different

[ of suckers,

'-^M

f a cat, and,

)C thrust at

e to be seen.

■"?'

sonic of the

,i!

f wood pass

smooth as a

'M.

id not think

'^i.

wo were not

IS 22" 11' S.

, was placed

■ :'^^:^

; was at the

roniispd one

I asked him

I his power.

arge to tho

mmcdiately

• ; but after

) trifling an

f his fellow-

d, and toUl

their corps,

opprobrious

lid it was a

-■'"Zr

t tliere remain

lot rccoinincnd

ml fust-sailinj;

itcntion bo not

Is, especially if

all, the loe:il

o/ the Adven-

theft bv a sentry when he was upon duty, and of a thing that had been oomniitted to bin
trust ; they di flared it a disj:race to associate with liiui ; and the serjcaiit, in partieuhir,
said that, if tin- i)er.«(in from wlutni the nkiii had been .stok'U wouhl ndt eonii>laiu, lie would
CDinphiin himself; for that liis honour would sufVcr if the otlender was not punished. IVom
the scort's and reproaches of these men of honour, the p();)r young fellow retired to his ham-
mock in an agony of confusion and shaiuo. The seijennt soon after went to him, and
ordered him to follow him to tho deck : lie obeyed without reply; but it being in the dusk
of the evening, he slipped from the Serjeant and went forward : he was seen by some of tho
people, who thought he was gone to the head ; but a search being maile f(n" him afterwards,
it was found that be had thrown himself overboard ; and I was then first made acquainted
with the theft and its circumstances. The loss of this man was the more regretted as ho
was remarkably <juiet and industrious, and as tho very action that put an end to his life
was a proof of an ingenuous mind ; for to such only disgrace is insupportable.

POLYNESIAN ISLAND. LAGUOH SHAPE, AND COMPOSKD OF L'OIIAL.

On Tuesday the 4th of April, about ten o'clock in the morning, IMr. Banks' servant,
Peter Briscoe, discovered land, bearing south, at the distance of about three or four leagues.
I inunediately haided up for it, and found it to be an island of an oval form, with a lagoon
in the middle, which occupied much the larger part of it ; the border of laud which circum-
scribes the la"oon is in many places very low and narrow, particularly on the south side,
where it consists principally of a beach or reef of rocks. It has the same appearance also
in three places on the north side ; so that the firm laud being disjoined, the whole looks
like many islands covered with wood. On the west end of tho island is a large tree, or
clump of trees, that in ap})earancc resembles a tower; and about the middle arc two cocoa-
nut trees, which rise above all the rest, and, as wc came near to the island, appeared like a
flag. Wc approached it on tho north side, and though wc came within a mile, we found
no bottom with IHO fiithom of line, nor did there appear to be any anchorage about it.
The whole is covered with trees of different verdure, but we could distinguish none, even
with our glasses, except cocoa-nuts and palm-nuts. Wo paw several of tho natives upon
the shore, and counted four-and-twenty. They appeared to be tall, and to have heads
remarkably large ; perhaps they had something wound round them >j;hich we could not
distinguish ; they were of a copper colour, and had long black hair. Eleven of them walked
along the beach abreast of the ship, with poles or pikes in their hands which reached twico
as high as themselves. While they walked on tho beach they seemed to be naked ; but soon
after they retired, which they did as soon as the ship had passed the island, they covered
themselves with something that made them appear of a light colour. Their habitations
wore under some clumps of palm-nut-trees, which at a distance appeared like high ground ;
and to us, who for a long time had seen nothing but water and sky, except tho dreary hills
of Terra del Fuego, these groves seemed a terrestrial paradise. To this spot, which lies in
latitude 18° 47" S., and longitude 139" 28' W., we gave the name of liAGooN Island. The
variation of the needle hero is 2° 54' E.

j^r

ill!

li ,

I
t

.14

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND TIIK AVORLP.

A I'll 1 1,1 TOO.

About ono o'clock wo niatlc sail to tlio westward, and about half an hour after throe wo
saw land aLrain to the N.W. Wo got np with it at snn-et, and it proved to he a low
woody island, of a circular form, and not much above a mile in compass. We iliscovered
no inhabitants, nor could wo distinguish any cocoa-nut-trees, though wo were within half
a mile of the shore. The land, however, was covered with vcrdvu'c of many hues. It liia
in latitude Wl" 3,'t' S., and longitude ]',W 4li W., and is distant from Lagoon Island, in the
direction of N. (5:2 W., about seven leagues. We called it Tiiuumh-Cap. I discovered, by
the api)earancc of the shore, that at this place it was low water ; and I had observed at
Lagoon Island that it was either high water, or that the sea neither ebbed nor flowed. I
infer, therefore, that a S. by E. or S. moon makes high water.

We went on with a fine trade-wind and pleasant weather, and on the .'ith, about three in
the afternoon, wo discovered lan<l to the westward. It proved to be a low island of nmcli
greater extent than either of those that we had seen before, being about ton or twelve
leagues • < compas*. Several of us rem.ained at the mast-head the whole evening, .idmiring
its extraordinary fij'ro: it was shajied ex.ietly like a bow, the arc and cord of which were
land, and tiio space between them water : the cord was a flat beach, without any signs of
vegetation, having notliing upon it but heaps of sea-weed, which lay in different ridges, as
higher or lower tides h.ad left them. It appeared to bo about three or four Icigiics long,
and not more than two hundred yards wide ; but as a horizontal jdano is always seen in
perspective, and greatly foreshortened, it is certainly much vnder than it appeared: the
horns, or extremities of the bow, were two large tufts of cocoa-nut-trees ; and much the
greater part of the arc was covered with trees of different height, figure, and line ; in some
parts, however, it was naked and low, like the cord. Some of ns thought they discovered
oi)enings through the cord, into the pool or lake that was included between that and the
bow; but whether there were or wore not such openings is uncertain. We sailed abreast
of the low beach or bow-string, within less than a league of the shore, till sunset, and we
then judged ourselves to bo about halfway between the two horns. Hero wc brought to,
and sounded, but found no bottom with one hundred and thirty fathom ; and, as it is dark
almost instantly after sunset in these latitudes, wc suddenly lost sight of the land, and
making sail again, before the line was well hauled in, wo steered by the sound of the
breakers, which were distinctly heard till we got clear of the coast. Wo knew this isKind
to be inhabited, by smoke which wc saw in different parts of it, and wc gave it the name
of Bow Island. Mr. Gore, my second lieutenunt, said, after wo had sailed by the island,
that he had seen several of the natives, under the first clump of trees, from the deck ; that
he had distinguished their houses, and seen several canoes hauled up under the shade ; but
in this he was more fortunate than any other person on board. The east end of this island,
which, from its figure, wc called the Bow, lies in latitude 10" 23' S., and longitude 141*
12' W. ; we observed the variation of the compass to be ;"»" 3iV E.

On the next day, Thursday the (»th, abont noon, wo saw land again to the westward,
and came up with it about three. It appeared to be two islands, or rather groups of islands,
extending from N.W. by N. to S. E. by S. about nine leagues. Of these, the two largest
were se]iarated from each other by a channel of about half-a-mile broad, and were severally
surrounded by smaller islands, to which they were joined by reefs that lay under water.
These islands were long narrow strips of land, ranging in all directions, some of thorn ten
miles or upwards in length, but none more than a quarter of a mile broad, and upon all of
them there were trees of various kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut. The south-castommost
of them lies in the latitude of 18" 12* S., and longitude 142" 42' W., and at the distance of
twcnty-fivo leagues in the direction of W. i N. from the west end of Bow Island. We
ranged along the S.W. side of this isl.ind, and hauled into a bay which lies to the N.W. of
the southernmost point of the group, where there was a smooth sea, and the appearance of
anchorage, without much surf on the shore. Wo sounded, but wo found no bottom w ith
one hundred fathom, at the distance of no more than three quarters of a mile from the
beach ; and I did not think it prudent to go nearer.

While this was doing, several of the inhabitants assembled upon the shore, and some
canio out in their canoes as far as the reefs, but would not pass them. When we saw this,

]

.-■■'

A PHI I., lTt59.

;or three wc
to I)e a l<iw
.' (liscovereil

within half
IC9. It lica
laiul, in tliu
icovorcd, i»y
i»l>serve(l at

flowed. I

out three in
ml of niiu-li
'I »)r twelve
or, ailmirinj;
which were
any signs of
at ritlges, as
?agtics long,
vays seen in
peared : the
(I much the
lie : in some
y (li-'coveretl
hat And the
tiled abrea.st
iset, and wc
brought to,
as it is dark
10 land, and
ound of the
this is^laiid

the name
the inland,
eck ; that

aile ; but
this island,
citudc 141*

westward,
of island;-,
two largest
c severally
idcr water,
them ten
upon all of
astcmmost
distance of
and. "Wc
le N.W. of
)earanoc of
ttom with
from the

and some
) saw this,

Ainii,, 17<?0,

rooK's Fiusr vovac.k lUM'xn tmk n'oiuj).

•I

M
*

we ranged, with an easy sail, along tlie shore ; but just as wc were i>as!<ing the end of the
island, six men, who had for some time kept al)rcast of the !>Iiip, siiddeiily liumehcd two
oanooH with givai quickness ami dexterity, and tiiree of them getting into each, tliey put
of!', as we imagined witli a design to come on board us; tlie ship was tlieivforc liroiiglit to,
but tliey, like their ."ellows, stopped at the reef. We diil not, however, immediately make
sail, as we observed two incsscngt-rs despatched to them from the other eanoes, wiiich were
of a iniieh larger size. Wo pcrciived that tlu-se messengers made great expedition, wading
and swimming along the i-eet ; u*. length they met, and the men on board the canoes making
no dispositions to pass the reef, aUer having received the messagi*, we judgetl that they had
resolved to come no farther. After >,aiting, therefore, seine little lime longer, we stood oil";
but when wo were got about two oi turcv <nius from the shore, wo perevived some of tho
natives following us in a canoo with a sail. We did not, hosvever, thmk it worth wliilo
to wait for her, and though she had passed the r-cf, she soon after gave over tho
chase.

According to the best judgment that we could form of tho people when wo wore nearest
the shore, they were about our size, and well made. They v.ere of ;• brown comidexion,
and appeared to be naked; their hair, which was black, was confined by a fillet that went
round the head, and stuck out behind like a bush. The greater part of them carried in their
hands two weapons; one of them w\s a slender pole, from ten to fourteen feet long, on one
end of which was a small knob, not unlike the ])oiiit of a spear ; the other was about four
feet long, and shaped like a paddle, and possildy might be so, for some of their canoes wen;
very small : those which wc saw them launch seemed not intended to carry more than the
three men that got into them : wo saw others that had on board six or seven men, and one
of them hoisted a sail which did not seem to reach more than six feet above the giiii-wale
of the boat, and which, upon the falling of a slight shower, was taken down and converted
into an awning or tilt. The canoe which followed us to sea hoisted a sail not unliko
an English lug-sail, and almost as lofty as an English boat of the same size would have
carried.

POLYNESIAN ISLAND. — CRYSTAL STReCTUKB.

The people, who kept abreast of the ship on the beach, made many signals ; but whether
they were intended to frighten us away, or invito us on siiore, it is not easy to determine :
we returned them by waving our hats and shouting, and they replied by shouting again.
We did not put their disposition to the test, by attempting to land ; because, as the island
was inconsiderable, and as wc wanted nothing that it could afford, we thought it imprudent
as well as cruel to risk a contest, in which the natives must have suffered by our superiority,
merely to gratify an idle curiosity ; especially as we expected soon to fall in with tho island
where wc had been directed to make our astronomical observation, the inhabitants of which
would probably admit us without opposition, as they were already acquainted with our
etrength, and might also procure us a ready and peaceable reeejition among tho neigh-
bouring people, if wo should desire it. To these islands w^c gave tho name of The
Groups.

On tho 7th, about half an hour after six in the morning, being just at daybreak, wc
discovered another island to the northward, which wc judged to be about four miles in
circumference. The land lay very low, and there was a piece of water iu the middle of it ;

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Apnii-, 17C9.

thc/e seemed to be sonio wood upon it, and it looked green and pleasant ; but we saw
ncitlier cocoa-trccs nor inhabitants : it abounded, however, with birds, and wo therefore
gave it the name of Bino Island. It lies in latitude 17" 4»' S., and longitude 143° 3.')' AV.,
at the distance of ten leagues, in the direction W. -^ N. from the west end of the Groups.
The variation hero was (>" 32' E.

On the 8th, abo it two o'clock in the afternoon, wo saw land to the northward, and about
sunset came abreast of i'., at about the distance of two leagues. It appeared to be a double
range of low woody islands joined together by reefs, so as to form one inland, in the form
of an ellipsis or oval, with a lake in the middle of it. The small islands and reefs that
circumscribe the lake have the appearance of a chain, and we therefore gave it the name of
Chain Island. Its length seemed to be about five leagues, in the direction of N.W. and
S.E., and its breadth about five miles. The trees upon it appeared to be large, and wc
saw smoke rising in diftcrent parts of it from among them : a certain sign that it was
inhabited. The middle of it lies in latitude 17" 23' S., and longitude 14r»» 54' W., and is
distani fiom Bird Island forty-five Icages, in the direction of W. by N. The vaiiation here
was, by several azimuths, found to be 4" .'54' E.

On the 10th, having had a tempestuous night with thimder and rain, the weather was
Jjazy till about nine o'clock in the morning, when it cleared up, and we saw the island to
which Captain Wallis, who first discovered it, gave the name of Osuaburgh Island, called
by the natives Maitca, bearing N.W. by W., distant about five leagues. It is a high round
island, not above a league in circuit ; in some parts it is covered with trees, and in others
a naked rock. In this direction it looked like a high-crowned hat ; but when it bears
north, the top of it has more the appearance of the roof of a house. Wc made its latitude
to be 17" 4JV S., its longitude 148" 10' W., and its distance from Chain Island, forty-four
leagues, in the direction of W. by S.

.^m

POLYNESIAN ISHND. VOLCANIC s;iAMiD.

CHAPTER VIII. THE AHRIVAL OF THE ENDEAVOUR AT OTAHETTE, CALLED TiY CAPTAIN

AVALLIS KING GKOIlfiE THE THIRD's ISLAND. RULES KSTAULISHED FOR THAI FIC WITH

THE NATIVES, AND AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS WHICH nAPPENED IN A VISIT
TO TOOTAHAH AND TUBOURAI TAMAIDA, TWO CHIEFS.

About one o'clock, on Monday the 10th of April, some of the people who were looking
out for (he island to which we were bound, said they saw land a-head, in that part of tlio
horizon where it was expected to appear ; but it was so faint tluit whether there was land
in sight or not remained a matter of dispute till sunset. The next morning, however, at
six o'clock, we were convinced that those who said they had discovered land were not
mistaken ; it appeared to be very high and mountainous, extendinor fi om W. by 8. 7r S. to
W. by N. I N., and wc knew it to be the same that Captain Wallis had called King
George the Third's Island. We were delayed in our .approach to it by light airs and
calms, so that in the morning of the 1 2tli wc were but little nearer than wo had been the

April, 17C9.

A.MiiD, 170T.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

bnt we saw
fto tliorcforo
143°3r»'W.,
the Groups.

i, and about
i be a double
, in the form
nd reefs that
the name of
f N.W, and
irge, and wo
1 that it was
i' W., and is
ai'iation here

weather was
the island to
Island, called
a hisrh round
and in others
ifhon it bears
ic its latitude
nd, forty-four

..■*■

HY CAPTAIN

RAIFIC WITH

D IN A VISIT

were looking
it part of tlio
lere was land

however, at
nd were not

jy s. ^y S. to

called King
ght airs and
had been the

night before ; but about seven a breeze sprang up, and before eleven several canoes were
seen making towards the ship : there were but few of them, however, that would come
near ; and the people i:i thosy that did could not be persuaded to come on board. In every
canoe tlicrc were young i)lantains, and branches of a tree which the Indians call E'M'ul/io:
these, as we afterwards learnt, were brought as tokens of peace and amity ; and the people
in one of the canoes handed them up the shi])'s side, making signals at the same time with
great earnestness, which we did not immediately understand ; at length we guessed that
tliey wished tlieso symbols should bo placed in some conspicuous part of the ship ; we,
therefore, immediately stuck them among the rigging, at which they expressed the greatest
satisfaction. We then jiurcha.'^ed their cargoes, consi.sting of cocoa-nuts and various kinds
of fruit, wliich, after our long voyage, were very acceptable.

AVe stood on with an easy sail all night, with soundings from twenty-two fathom to
twelve, and about seven o'clock in tlio morning we came to an anchor in thirteen fathom,
in Portroya' Bay, called by the natives Matacai. We were immediately surrounded by the
natives in their canoes, wlio gave us cocoa-nuts, fruit resembling apples, bread-fruit, and
some small fishes, in exchange for beads and other triHes. They had with them a i)ig,
which they would not part with for anything but a hatchet, and therefore we refused to
[lurchase it ; because if we gave them a hatchet for a pig now, we knew they would never
afterwards sell one for less, and we (.ould not
affortl to buy as many as it was probable we
should want at that price. The bread-fruit grows
on a tree that is about the size of a middling oak :
its leaves are frequently a foot and a half long,
of an oblong shape, dee})ly sinuated like those of
the fig-tree, which they resemble in consistence
and colour, and in the exuding of a white milky
juice upon being broken. The fruit is about *he
size and shape of a child's head, and the surface
is reticulated, not much unlike a truffle : it is
covered with a tiiin skin, and has a core about
as big as the handle of a small knife : the eatable
part lies between the skin and the core : it is as
wliite as snow, and somewhat of the consistence
of new bread : it must be roasted before it is
eaten, being first divided into three or four parts :
its taste is insipid, with a slight sweetness, some-
what resembling that of the crumb of wheaten
bread mixed with a Jerusalem artichoke.

Among others who came off to the ship was an elderly man, whose name, as we learnt
afterwards, was Owiiaw, and who was immediately known to ]Mr. Ciorc, and several others
who had been here with Captain Wallis. As I was informed that he had been very useful
to them, 1 took him on board the ship with some others, and was particularly attentive to
gratify him, as I hoped lie might also be useful to us.

As our stay here was not likely to be very sliort, and as it was necessary that the mer-
chandise which we had brought for traffic with the natives should not diminish in its value,
which it would certainly have done if every person had been left at liberty to give what ho
jileased for such things as he should purcliase ; at the same time, that confusion and quar-
rels must necessarily have arisen from there being no standard at market, I drew up the
following rules, and ordered that they siiould be i)unctually observed : —

Rules to lie of/geri-eil hi/ cecrt/ Person in or lelonr/hoi la /i!s Majcstys Ihirlc the Enilearour,
for the letter cst.ahl\sh\n(i a rejnlar and uniform Trade for Proi-i.iion, c^r. tcilh the
Inhidiitants <f George's Island.

" I. To endeavour, by every fiiir means, to cultivate a friendship with the natives ; and
to treat them with all imaginable humanity.

BUFAO KHUIT.

\\<\

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

April, 17C9.

■■ i '

lii

" II. A proper person or persons will be appointed to tmdc with the natives for all
manner of provisions, fruit, ami other productions of the earth ; and no officer or seaman, or
other jicrson belonging to the ship, excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade or offer
to trade for any sort of provision, fruit, or other productions of the earth, unless they have
leave so to do.

" III. Every person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly to attend to
tlie same ; and if by any neglect he loseth any of his arms, or working tools, or suffers them
to be stolen, the full value thereof will be charged against his pay, according to the custom
of the navy in such cases ; and he shall receive such farther punishment as the nature of the
offence may deserve.

" I V. The same jienalty will be inflicted on every person who is found to embezzle, trade,
or offer to trade, with any part of the ship's stores, of what nature soever.

" V, No sort of iron, or anything that is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other
useful or necessary articles, are to be given in exchange for anything but provision.

" J. Cook."

As soon as the ship was properly secured, I went on shore with Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander, a party of men under arms, and our friend Owhaw. We were received from the
boat by some hundreds of the inhabitants, whose looks at lease gave us welcome, though
they were struck with such awe, that the first who approached us crouched so low that he
almost crept upon his hands and knees. It is remarkable that he, like the people in the
canoes, presented to us the same symbol of peace that is known to have been in use among
the ancient and mighty nations of the northern hemisphere, the green branch of a tree. Wo
received it with looks and gestures of kindness and satisfaction ; and observing tljat each of
them held one in his haml, we immediately gathered every one a bough, and carried it in
our hands in the same manner.

They marched with us about half-a-mile towards the place where the Dolphin had
watered, conducted by Owhaw; they then made a full stop, and having laid the ground
bare, by clearing away all the plants that grew upon it, the principal persons among them
threw their green branches upon the naked spot, and made signs that we should do the
same ; we immediately showed our readiness to comply, and to give a greater solemnity to
the rite, the marines were drr.wn up, and marching in order, each dropped his bough upon
those of the Indians, and we followed the'ir ejcimplo. Wo then proceeded, and when we
came to the watering-place it was intimated to us by signs, that we might occupy that
ground, but it happened not to be fit for our purpose. During our walk, they had shaken
off their first timid sense of our superiority, and were become familiar : they went with i;;
from the watering-place and took a circuit through the woods ; as we went along, we dis-
tributed beads and other small presents among them, and had the satisfaction to see that
they were much gratified. Our circuit was not loss than four or five miles, through groves
of trees, which were loaded with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, and afforded the most grateful
shade. Under these trees wore the habitations of tho people, most of them being only a
roof without walls, and the whole scene realised the poetical fables of Arcadia. Wo
remarked, however, not without some regret, that in all our walk we had seen only two
hogs, and not a single fowl. Those of our company who had been here with the Dolpiiin
told us, that none of the i>eople whom wo ha<l yet scon wore of the first class : they sus-
pected that the chiefs had removed ; and upon carrying us to the place where what they
called the queen's jialace had !?toud, we found that no traces of it wore loft. We deter-
mined therefore to return in the morning, and endeavour to fiu'l out the noblesse in their
retreats.

In the morning, however, before we could leave the ship, several canoes came about us,
most of them from tiie westwanl, and two of them were filled nith pcoi)le, who, by their
dress and di'portiucnt, ajijioarod to be of a superior rank : two of these came on boar<l, and
each singled out his fii-.-nil ; one of them, who-c name we found to be jMataiiau, fixed
upon 3Ir. IJanks, and tlie other uj)on me : this ceremony consisted in taking off great parf
of their clotlics and puttiiia tlioni upon u-s. In return for this, we presented eacli of tliciu
with a hatchet and some beads. .Soou after tliev made signs for us to go with them to the

h I

LPRIL, 17C9.

ves for all
seaman, or
ade or otter
i they liavo

to attend to
uttbrs them
the custom
[iturc of the

czzle, trade,

th, or other
9n.

f. Cook."
ks and Dr.
ed from the
imc, though
low that ho
eople in the
I use among
I tree. Wo
that each of
carried it in

)olphin had

the ground

xmong tliem

ould do the

solemnity to

bough upon

id when wo

occupy that

lad shaken

ent with vc

we dis-

;o see that

)Ugh groves

ost grateful

oing only a

;adia. Wo

only two

le Dolphin

they SHs-

what they

We deter-

'ssc. in their

about Tis,
(), by their
board, and
IIAH, fixed
great jiarf
•h of tlicm
icni to tliu

April, l^OO.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

places where they lived, pointing to the S.W. ; and as I was desirous of finding a more
commodious harbour, and making farther trial of the disposition of the people, I consented.

I ordered out two boats, and with IVIr. Banks and Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen,
and our two Indian friends, we embarked for our expedition. After rowing about a league,
they made signs that wo should go cm shore, and gave us to understand tliat this was tlie
I)lacc of their residence. We accordingly landed, among several hundreds of the natives,
who conducted us into a house of much greater length than any we had seen. AV hen wo
entered, we saw a middle-aged man, whose name was afterwards discovered to be Tootaiiaii :
mats were immediately spread, and wo were desircid to sit down over-against him. Soon
after we were seated, he ordered a cock and hen to be brought out, whicli he presented to
Sir. Banks and me: we accepted the present; and in a short time each of us received a
piece of cloth, perfnmcd after their manner, by no means disagreeably, which they took
great pains to make us remark. The i)iece presented to JMr. Banks was eleven yards long
and two wide ; in return for which, he gave a laced silk neckcloth, whicli he happened to
have on, and a linen pocket-handkerchief: Tootahah immediately dressed h-msclf iu this
new finery, with an air of perfect complacency and satisfaction. But it is no v time that I
shoidd take some notice of the ladies.

Soon after the interchanging of our presents with Tootahah, they attended us to several
large houses, in which wo walked about with great freedom : they showed us all v}ic civility
of whicli, in our situation, we could accept ; and, on their part, seemed to have no scrapie
that would have prevented its being carried farther. The houses, which, as I have observed
before, are all open, except a roof, afforded no place of retirement ; but the ladies, by
frequently pointing to the mats upon the ground, and sometimes seating themselves and
drawing us down upon them, left us no room to doubt of their being much less jealous of
observation than we were.

We now took leave of our friendly chief, and directed our course along the shore.
AVhen we had walked about a mile, we met, at the head of a great number of people,
another chief, whose name was TuiiouuAi Tamaide, with whom we were also to ratify
a treaty of peace, with the ceremony of which wo were now become better acquainted.
Having received the branch which he presented to us, and given another in return, we laid
our hands upon our left breasts, and pronounced the word Taio, which we supposed to
signify friend ; the chief then gave us to understand, that if we chose to eat, he had victuals
ready for us. We accepted his offer, and dined very heartily upon fish, bread-fruit, cocoa-
nuts, and plantains, dressed after their manner: tliey ate some of their fish raw; and raw
fi.sh was offered to us, but we declined that part of the entertainment.

During this visit a wife of our noble host, whoso name was ToMio, did Mr. Banks the
honour to place herself upon the same mat, close by him. Tomio was not in the first bloom
of her youth, nor did she appear to have been ever remarkable for her beauty ; he did not,
therefore, I believe, pay her the most flattering attention : it haiipened, too, as a farther
mortification to this lady, that seeing a very pretty girl among the crowd, he, not adverting
to the dignity of his companion, beckoned her to come to him : the girl, after some entreaty,
complied, and sat down on the other side of him : ho loiided her with beads, and every
showy trifle tliat would please her: his princess, thougli she was somewhat mortified at the
preference that was given to her rival, did not discontinue her civilities, but still assiduously
supplied him with the milk of tho cocoa-nut, and such other dainties as were in her reach.
This scene might possibly have become more cia-ious and interesting, if it had not been
suddenly interrupted by an interlude of a more serious kind. Just at this time, Dr.
Solander and Sir. Monkhouse complained that their p(»ckets had been picked. Dr. Solander
had lost an opera-glass in a shagreen case, and Mr. Monkhouse his snuff-box. Tiiis incident
unfortunately put an end to the good-humour of tlie company. Comjilaint of the injury
was made to the chief; and, to givo it weight, Mr. Banks started up, and hastily struck
the butt-end of his firelock upon the ground : this action, and the noise that accompanied it,
struck the whole assembly witli a panic ; and every one of the natives ran out of the house
with the utmost precipitation, except the thief, three women, and two or three others, who
appeared by their dress to bo of a superior rank.

If'

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Arnii,, 1700.

3 1

:l I

The cliicf, with a iiiixture of confusion and concern, took Mr. Banks by the hand, and
led him to a hirgc quantity of cloth, which Lay at the other end of tlie ho\i.se : this he
oficfLd to liini jiiece by piece, intimating by signs, that if tliat would atone for the wrong
which had been done, he might take any part of it, or, if he pleased, the whole. Afr. Danks
put it by, and gave him to imderstand that ho wanted nothing but what had been dis-
lionestly taken away. Tubourai Tamaide then went hastily out, leaving IMr. Banks with
liis wife Tomio, Avho, during the whole scene of terror and confusion, had kept constantly at
his side, and intimating his desire that ho should wait there till his retnrn. Mr. Banks
accordingly sat down, and conversed with her, as well as he could by signs, about half an
hour. The chief then came back with the snuff-box and the case of the opera-glass in his
Iiaud, and, with a joy in his countenance that was painted with a strength of expression
which distinguishes these people from all others, delivered them to the owners. The case
of the opera-glass, however, upon being opened, was found to bo cmi)ty ; upon this dis-
covery, his countenance changed in a moment ; and catching Mr. Banks again by the hand,
he rushed out of the house, without uttering any sound, and led him along the shore,
walking with great rapidity: when they had got about a mile from the house, a woman met
him and gave him a piece of cloth, which he hastily took from her, and continued to press
forward with it in his hand. Dr. Solandcr and Mr. Monkhouso had followed them, and
they came at length to a house where they were received by a woman, to whom he gave
the cloth, and intimated to the gentlemen that they should give her some beads. They
immediately complied ; and the beads and cloth being deposited upon the floor, the woman
went out, ana in about half an hour returned with the opera-glass, cxjiressing the same joy
upon the occasion that had before been expressed by the chief. The beads were now
returned, with an inflexible resolution not to accept them ; and the cloth was, with the
same ])ertinacity, forced upon Dr. Solander, as a recompense for tiie injury that had been
done him. He could not avoid accepting the cloth, but insisted in his turn upon giving
a new present of beads to the woman. It will not, perhaps, be easy to account for all the
steps that were taken in the recovery of the glass and snuff-box ; but this cannot be thought
strange, considering that the scone of action was among a people whoso language, policy,
and connexions, are even now but imperfectly known ; upon the whole, however, they
show an intelligence and influence which would do honour to any system of government,
however regular and improved, la the evening, about six o'clock, wo returned to
the ship.

' ii

CHAPTER IX. A PLACE FIXED ITPON I'OU AN onSKRVATOUY AND FOUT : AN EXCURSION

INTO THE WOOI>S, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. TIIE FOUT ERECTED : A VISIT FUOJI SEVERAL

CHIEFS ON UOARD AND AT THE FORT, WITH SOJIE ACCOUNT OF THE MUSIC OF THE NATIVES,
AND THE MANNER IN WHICH THEY DISPOSE OF THEIR DEAD.

On the next morning, Saturday the 15th, several of the chiefs, whom we had seen the day
before, came on board, and brouglit with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreshments, for
which we gave them hatchets and linen, and such things as seemed to bo most acceptable.

As in my excursion to the westward, I had not found any more convenient harbour than
that in which we lay, I determined to go on shore, and fix upon some spot, conunanded by
the ship's guns, where I might throw u]i a small fort for our defence, and ])re))are for making
our astronomical observation. I therefore took a i)arty of men, and landed without delay,
accompanied by ^Ir. Banks, Dr. Solander. and the astronomer, Mr. (ireen. We soon fixed
upon a i)art of the sandy beach, on the N.E. point of the bay, Avhich was in every respect
convenient for our i)urpose, and not near any habitation of the natives. Having marked out
the ground that we iiitended to occupy, a small tent belonging to ^\r. Bunks was set up,
which had been brought on shore for tliat purjjose. By this time a great number of tiie
jieople had ;:;athered about us ; but, as it iippeared, only to look on, there not being a single
weapon of any kiud among them, I intimated, however, that none of them were to come

.piuL, 17fiO,

) hand, and
ic : this he

the wrong
Air, Banks
I bi'cn dis-
Bauks witli
)nstantly at
Mr. Uanks
out half an
glass in his

exi)re«siou

Tho case

on this dis-

y tho hand,

tho shore,
woman met
Lied to press
1 them, and
om he gave
lads. They

the woman
he same joy
j were now
IS, with the
lat had been
upon giving
it for all the
t he thought
|iage, policy,
kvevcr, they
Tovernment,
returned to

EXCURSION
M SEVKUAIi
IE NATIVES,

een the day
iments, for
ceptablc.

irbour than
manded hy
'or making
out delay,
soon fixed
ery respect
narked out
was set n]>,
iber of tho
ing a single
.ro to come

Aeim., 17C9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 41

within the line I liad drawn, except one who appeared to he a chief, and Owhaw. To these
two persons I addressed myself hy signs, and endeavoured to make them understand that wo
wanted the ground which we had marked out to sleep upon for a certain number of nights,
and that then wo should go away. AVhether I was understood I cunnot certainly deter-
mine ; but the people behaved with a deference and ro^pect that at once pleased and
surprised us. They sat down peaceably without the circle, and looked on without giving

NATIVKS OF OTAUEITR TRADING WITH CAPTAIN COOK.

US any interruption till wo had done, which was upwards of two hours. As we had seen
no poultry, and but two hogs, in our walk when we wore last on shore at this place, wc
suspected that, upon our arrival, they had been driven farther up the country ; and the
rather, as Owhaw was very importunate with us, by signs, not to go into tho woods, which,
however, and partly for these reasons, we were determined to do. Having, therefore,
appointed the thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, we set out, and a great
number of tho natives joined our party. As we were crossing a little river that lay in our
way, we saw some ducks, and Mr. Banks, as soon as he had got over, fired at them, and
happened to kill three at one shot : this struck them with the utmost terror, so that most of
them fell suddenly to the ground, as if they also had been shot at the same discharge. It
was not long, however, before they recovered from their fright, and we continued our route ;
but we had not gone 'ar before we were alarmed by the report of two pieces, which were
fire by the guai'd at the tent. We had then straggled a little distance from each other,
but Owhaw immediately called us together, and, by waving his hand, sent away every
Indian who followed us except three, each of whom, as a pledge of peace on their part, and
an entreaty that there might be peace on oura, hastily broke a branch from the trees, and
came to us with it in their hands. As we had too much reason to fear that some mischief
had liappened, we hasted back to the tent, which was not distant above half a mile, and
when we came up, we found it entirely deserted, except by our own people.

It appeared tliat one of the Indians, who remained about the tent after wc left it, had
watched his opportunity, and, taking the sentry unawares, had snatched away his musket.
Upon this the petty officer, a midshipman, who commanded the party, perha))S from a sudden
fear of farther violence, perhaps from the natural petulance of power newly ac<]nired, and
perhaps from a brutality in his nature, ordered the marines to fire. The men, with as little
consideration or humanity as the officer, immediately discharged their pieces among tho
thickest of the flying crowd, consisting of more than a hundred ; and observing that tho

I I

i '

I I

• l1

■ ■ i '

: 1

Jirl

1^.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

April, 1769.

thief did not fall, pursued liini, and shot him dead. Wc afterwards Icamt that none of the
others were either killed or wounded.

Owhaw, who had never left us, observing that we were now totally deserted, got together
a few of those who liad fled, though not without some difficulty, and ranged them about us.
We endeavoured to justify our people as well as we could, and to convince the Indians that,
if they did no wrong to us, we should do no wrong to them. Tlicy went away without any
apjicarance of distrust or resentment ; and having struck our tent, we returned to the ship,
but by no means satisfied with the transactions of the day.

Upon questioning our people more particularly, whoso conduct they soon perceived we
could not approve, they alleged that the sentinel, whose musket was taken away, was
violently assaulted and thrown down, and that a push was afterwards made at him by the
man who took the musket before any command was given to fire. It was also suggested,
that Owhaw had suspicions, at least, if not certain knowledge, that something would bo
attempted against our people at the tent, wliicli made him so very earnest in his endeavours
to prevent our leaving it ; others imputed his importunity to his desire that we should con-
fine ourselves to the beach ; and it was remarked, that neither 0»*'uaw, nor the chiefs who
remained with us after he had sent the rest of the people away, would have inferred the
breach of peace from the firing at the tent, if they had had no reason to suspect that some
injury had been otFcrod by their countrymen; especially as Mr. Banks had just fired at the
duckf : and yot tliat thoy did infer a breach of peace from that incident was manifest from
till ir waviiiij their hands for the people to disperse, and instantly pulling green branches from
the '.-COS. Hut what were the real circumstances of this unhappy Jiffair, and whether cither,
and V hich of tlieso conjectures, were true, can never certainly be known.

The next morning but few of the natives were seen upon the beach, and not one of them
came off to the ship. This convinced us that our endeavours to quiet their apprehensions
had not been effectual ; and wc remarked witli particular regret that wo were deserted even
by Owhaw, who had hitherto been so constant in his attachment, and so active in renewing
the peace that had been broken. Appearances being thus imfavourable, I warped the ship
nearer to the shore, and moored her in such a manner as to command all the N.E. part of
the bay, particularly the place which I had marked out for the building a fort. In the
evening, however, I went on shore with only a boat's crew, and some of the gentlemen ; the
natives gathered about us, but not in the same number as before ; there were, I believe,
between thirty and forty ; and they trafficked with us for cocoa-nuts and other fruit, to all
appearance as friendly as ever.

On the 17th, early in the morning, wo had the misfortune to lose Jlr. Buchan, the person
whom Mr. Banks had brought out as a painter of landscapes and figures. lie was a sober,
diligent, and ingenious young man, and greatly regretted by Mr. Banks ; who hoped, by his
means, to have gratified his friends in England with representations of this country and its
inhabitants, which no other person on board could delineate with the same accuracy and
elegance. Ho had always been subject to epileptic fits, one of which seized him on the
mountains of Terra del Fuego ; and this disorder being aggravated by a bilious complaint,
which ho contracted on board the ship, at length put an end to his life. It was at first pro-
posed to bury him on shore, but Mr. Banks thinking that it might perhaps give offence to
the natives, with whose customs we were then wholly unacquainted, we committed his body to
the sea, with as much decency and solemnity as our circumstances and situation would admit.

In the forenoon of this day we received a visit from Tubourai Tamaido and Tootahah, our
chiefs from the west. They brought with them, as emblems of peace, not branches of
plantain, but two young trees, and would not venture on board till these had been received,
having probably been alarmed by the mischief which had been done at the tent. Each of
them also brought, as propitiatory gifts, some bread-fruit, and a hog ready-dressed : this was
a most acceptable present, as we perceived that hogs were not always to be got ; and in
return we gave to each of our noble benefactors a hatchet and a nail. In the evening wc
Avent on shore, and set up a tent, in which Mr. Green and myself spent the night, in order
to observe an eclipse of the first satellite of Jupiter ; but the weather becoming cloudy, we
were disappointed.

^Se

April, 17C0.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

person

a sober,

by bis

and its

acy and

on the

plaint,

irst pro-

"ence to

jody to

admit.

ah, our

iches of

ceived,

lach of

lis was

and in

lina: wc

n order

dy, wc

On the 18th, at daybreak, I went on shore, with as many people as could possibly bo
spared from the ship, and began to erect our fort. While some were employed in throwing
up intrenchmcnts, otliers were busy in cutting pickets and fascines, which the natives, who
soon gathered round us as they had been used to do, were so far from hindering, that many
of them voluntarily assisted us, bringing the pickets and fascines from the wood where tliey
had been cut, with great alacrity. We had, indeed, been so scrupulous of invading their
property, that wo purchased every stake which was used upon this occasion, and cut down
no tree till we had first obtained their consent. The soil where wo constructed our fort was
sandy, and this made it necessary to strengthen the intrenchmcnts with wood ; three sides
wore to be fortified in this manner ; the fourtli was bounded by a river, upon the banks of
which I proposed to place a proper number of water-casks. This day we served pork to the
ship's company for the first time ; and the Indians brought down so much bread-fruit and
cocoa-nuts, that we found it necessary to send away part of them unbought, and to acquaint
them by signs that wc should want no more for two days to come. Everything was pur-
chased this day with beads : a single bead, as big as a pea, being the purchase of five or six
cocoa-nuts, and as many of the bread-fruit. Mr. Banks's tent was got up before night
within the works, and he slept on shore for the first time. Proper sentries were placed
round it, but no Indian attempted to approach it the whole night.

The next morning, our friend Tubourai Tamaide made IMr. Banks a visit at the tent, and
brought with him not only his wife and family, but the roof of a house, and several materials
for setting it up, with furniture and implements of various kinds, intending, as we understood
him, to take up his residence in our neighbourhood. This instance of his confidence and
good-will gave us great pleasure, and we determined to strengthen his attachment to us by
every means in our power. Soon after his arrival, he took IMr. Banks by the hand, and
loading him out of the line, signified that he should accompany him into the woods.
]Mr. Banks readily consented ; and having walked with him about a quarter of a mile, they
arrived at a kind of awning which he had already set up, and which seemed to be his occa-
sional habitation. Here he unfolded a bundle of his country cloth, and taking out two
garments, one of red cloth, and the other of very neat matting, he clothed Mr. Banks in
them, and, without any other ceremony, immediately conducted him back to the tent. His
attendants soon after brought him some pork and bread-fruit, which he ate, dipping his meat
into salt-water instead of sauce : after his meal, he retired to ]\Ir. Banks's bed, and slept
about an hour. In the afternoon, his wife Tomio brought to the tent a young man about
two-and-twenty years of .age, of a very comely appearance, whom they both seemed to
acknowledge as their son, though we afterwards discovered that he was not so. In the
evenings this young man and another chief, who had also paid us a visit, went away to the
westward, but Tubourai Taniaide and his wife returned to the awning in the skirts of the
wood.

Our surgeon, Mr. Monkhouse, having walked out this evening, reported, that he had
seen the body of the man who had been shot at the tents, which he said was wrapped in
cloth, and placed on a kind of bier, supported by stakes, under a roof that seemed to have
been set up for the purpose : that near it were deposited some instruments of war and
other things, which he would particularly have examined but for the stench of the body,
which was intolerable. He said, that he saw also two more sheds of the same kind, in one
of which were the bones of a human body that had lain till they were quite dry. We dis-
covered afterwards, that tiiis was the way in which they usually disposed of their dead.

A kind of market now began to be kept just without the lines, and was plentifully sup-
plied with everything but pork. Tubourai Tamaide was our constant guest, imitating our
manners, even to the using of a knife and fork, which he did very handily.

As my curiosity was excited by Mr. Monkhouse's account of the situation of the man
who had been shot, I took an opportunity to go with some others to see it. I found the
shed under which his body lay, close by the house in which he resided when he was alive,
some others being not more than ten yards distant ; it was about fifteen feet lonf, and
eleven broad, and of a proportionable height : one end was wholly open, and the other end
and the two sides, wore partly enclosed with a kind of wicker-work. The bier on which

lil

•1

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND TFIE WORLD.

Aphil, 1709.

tlio corpse was deposited, was a frame of wood like that in which the sea-beds, called cots,
are placed, with a matted bottom, and supported by four posts, at the height of about five
feet from the ground. The body was covered first with a mat, and then with white cloth ;
by the side of it lay a wooden mace, one of their weapons of war, and near the head of it,
which lay next to the close end of the shed, lay two cocoa-nut sliells, such as are sometimes
used to carry water in ; at the other end a buncli of green leaves, witli some dried twigs,
all tied togetlier, were stuck in the ground, by which lay a stono about as big as a cocoa-
nut : near these lay one of the young plantain-trees which are used for emblems of
peace, and close by it a stone axe. At tlio open end of tlic shed also hung, in several
.strings, a great number of palm-nuts, and without the shed was stuck upright in the
ground the stem of a ])lantain-trce about five feet high, upon the top of which was placed
a cocoa-nut shell full of fresh water : against the side of one of the posts hung a small bag,
containing a few i)ieces of bread-fruit ready roasted, which were not all put in at the same
time, for some of them were fresh, and others stale. I took notice that several of the
natives observed us with a mixture of solicitude and jealousy in their eountcnrnces, and
by their gestures expressed uneasiness when we went near the body, standing themselves at
a little distance while wc were making our examination, and appearing to be pleased when
wc came away.

Our residence on shore would by no means have been disagreeable, if we had not been
incessantly tormented by the flics, which, among other misehicf, made it almost impossible
for Mr. Parkinson, Mr. Banks's natural-history painter, to work ; for they not only covered
his subject so as that no part of its surface could be seen, but oven ate the colour off tho
paper as fast as he could lay it on. Wc had recourse to mosquito-nets and fly-traps, which,
though they made tho inconvenience tolerable, were very far from removing it.

On the 22nd, Tootahah gave us a specimen of the music of this country: four persons
performed upon flutes, which had only two stops, and therefore could not sound more than
four notes, by half tones : they were sounded like our German flutes, except that tho per-
former, instead of applying it to his mouth, blew into it with one nostril, while he stopped
the other with his thumb : to those instruments four otlier persons sung, and kept very good
time ; but only one tune was played during the whole concert.

Several of the natives brought us axes, which they had received from on board the
Dolphin, to grind and repair ; but among others there was one which became the subject
of much sjjeculation, as it appeared to be French : after mucli inquiry, we learnt that a
ship had been here between our arrival and the departure of the Dolphin, which we then
conjectured to have been a Spaniard, but now know to have been the Boudeusc, commanded
by M. Bougainville.

CnAPTER X. — AN EXCCRSION TO THE EASTWARD, AN ACCOUNT OP SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT
HAPPENED BOTH ON BOARD AND ON SHORE, AND OP THE FIRST INTERVIEW WITH UBEREA,
THE PERSON AVIIO, WHEN THE DOLPHIN WAS HERE, AVAS SUPPOSED TO BE QUEEN OP TUB
ISLAND, AVITU A DESCRIPTION OF THE FORT.

On the 24th, ]Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the coimtry for several miles along
the shore to the eastward : for about two miles it was flat and fertik^ ; after that the hills
stretched quite to the water^s edge, and a little farther ran out into the sea, so that tliey
were obliged to climb over them. These hills, which were barren, continued for about three
miles more, and then terminated in a large plain, which was full of good houses, and people
who appeared to live in great aflluonce. In this place there was a river, much more con-
siderable than that at our fort, Avhich issued from a deep and beautiful valley, and, where
our travellers crossed it, though at some distance from the sea, was near one hundred yards
wide. About a mile beyond tins river the country became again barren, the rocks every-
where projecting into the sea, for which reason they resolved to return. Just as they had
formed this resolution, one of the natives offered them refreshment, which they accepted.
They found this man to bo of a kind that has been described by various authors, as mixed

ApBit, 17C9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

with many nations, hut distinct from them all. His skin was of n dead white, without tho
least appearance of what is called coniph-xion, though some parts of his hody were in a
small decree less white than others : his hair, eyehrows, and heard, were as white as his
sliin ; his eyes appeared as if they were hloodshot, and lie seemed to ho very 8hort-si(,'lite<l.
At their return they were met hy Tuhourai Taniaido, and his women, who, at seeing tlieni,
felt a joy which, not heing ahlo to express, they hurst into tears, and wept some time before
their jiassion could be restrained.

This evening Dr. Solander lent his knife to one of these women, who neglected to return
it, and the next morning Mr. Banks's also was missing ; ni)on this occasion I must bear
my testimony, that the people of this country, of all ranks, men and women, are tho
arrantest thieves upon the face of the earth. Tho very day after wo arrived here, when
they came on board us, tho chiefs were employed in stealing what they coidd in tho cabin,
and their dependants were no less industrious in other parts of tho ship ; they snatched up
everything that it was possible for them to secrete till they got on sliore, even to tho glass
ports, two of which they carried off undetected. Tuhourai Taviaidc was tho only ono
except Tootahah who had not been found guilty; and the presumption, arising from this
circumstance, that ho was exempt from a vice, of which tho whole nation besides were
guilty, cannot bo supposed to outweigh strong appearances to the contrary. Mr. Banks,
therefore, though not without some reluctance, accused him of having stolen his knife : ho
solemnly and steadily denied that he knew anything of it ; upon which Mr. Banks made
him xuulerstand, that whoever had taken it, he was determined to have it returned. Upon
this resolute declaration, one of tiio natives who was present produced a rag, in which three
knives were very carefully tied up. One was that which Dr. Solander had lent to tho woman,
another was a talde-knifc belonging to me, and the owner of the third was not known.
With these th'' chief immediately set out, in order to make restitution of them to their
owners at tho lents. IVIr. Banks remained with tho women, who expressed great appre-
hensions that some mischief was designed against their lord. When ho came to the tents,
lie I'cstorcd one of the knives to Dr. Solander, and another to me, the third not being owned,
and then began to search for Mr. Banks' in all the places where he had ever seen it. After
some time, ono of ]Mr. Banks' servants, imderstanding what he was about, immediately
fetched his master's knife, which it seems ho had laid by tiie day before, and till now knew
nothing of its having been missed. Tuhourai Tamaide, upon this demonstration of hia
innocence, expressed tho strongest emotions of mind, both in his looks and gestures : the
tears started from his eyes ; and he made signs with the knife, that, if he was ever guilty
of such an action as had been imputed to him, ho would submit to have his throat cut. He
then rushed out of the lines, and returned hastily to Mr. B.anks, with a countenance that
severely reproached him with his suspicions. Mr. Banks soon understood that the knife
had been received from his servant, and was scarcely less affected at what had happened
than the chief: ho felt himself to bo the guilty person, and was very desirous to atone for
his fault. The poor Indian, however violent his passions, was a stranger to sullen resent-
ment ; and upon Mr. Banks' spending a little time familiarly with him, and making
him a few trifling presents, he forgot the wrongs that had been done him, and was perfectly
reconciled.

Upon this occasion it may be observed, that these people have a knowledge of right and
wrong from the mere dictates of natural conscience ; and involuntarily condemn themselves
when they do that to others which they would condemn others for doing to them. That
Tuhourai Tamaide felt tho force of moral obligation is certain ; for the imputation of an
action which ho considered as indifferent would not, when it appeared to be groundless,
have moved him with such excess of passion. Wo must, indeed, estimate the virtue of
these people by the only standard of morality, the conformity of tlieir conduct to what in
their opinion is right ; but we must not hastily conclude that theft is a testimony of the same
depravity in them that it is in us, in the instances in which our people were sufferers hy
their dishonesty; for their temptation was such as to surmount would be considered as a
proof of uncommon integrity among those who have more knowledge, better principles, and
stronger motives to resist the tom^tationa of illicit advantage: au Indian among penny

rOOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Am II,, I70f>.

knives, and bcails, or oven nails and lirokcn glass, is in tlic sanio state of trial with tlio
meanest servant in Eurojio among unlocked cofVers of jewels and gold.

On the 2()tli, I mounted six swivel guns ujion the fort, vsliich I was sorry to sco struek
tlic natives witli dread : some fishermen who lived upon the point removed farther off, and
Owhaw told us, by signs, tlhit in four days we should firo great guns. On the 27th,
Tuhourai Tamaide, with a friend, who ato with a voraeity that I never saw before, and tho
three women that usually attended him, whoso names were Tkbapo, Tihao, and Omie,
dined at tho fort : in tho evening they took their leave, and set out for the house which
Tuhourai Tamaide had sot up in the skirts of the wood ; but in less than a quarter of an
hour ho returned in great emotion, and hastily seizing Mr. Danks's arm, made signs that hu
should follow him. Mr. Banks immediately complied, and they soon came up to a jdaco
where they found the ship's butcher with a reaping-hook in his hand : hero the chief
8toj)pcd, and, in a triinsport of rage which rendered his signs scarcely intelligible, intimated
that the butcher had threatened, or attempted, to en* his wife's throat with the reaping-
hook. Air. Banks then signified to him, that if he could fully explain tho offence, the man
should be punished. Upon this he became more calm, and made Mr. Banks understand
that the offender, having taken a fancy to a stone-hatchet which lay in his house, had
offered to purchase it of his wife for a nail : that she having refused to part with it upon
any terms, he had catched it up, and throwing down the nail, threatened to cut her throat
if she made any resistance : to prove this charge the hatchet and the nail were produced,
and the butcher had so little to say in his defence, that there was not the least reason to doubt
of its truth.

]\rr. Banks having reported this matter to me, I took an opportunity, when the chief and
his women, with other Indians, were on board the ship, to call up the butcher, uud after
a recapitulation of the charge and the proof, I gave orders that he should be punished, as
well to prevent other offences of the same kind, Jis to .. lit Mr. Banks of his promise : tho
Indians saw him stripped and tied up to the rigging with a fixed attention, waiting in silent
suspense for the event ; but as soon as the first stroke was given, they interfered with great
agitation, earnestly entreating that the rest of the punishment might bo remitted : to this,
however, for many reasons, I could not consent, and when they found that they could not
prevail by their intercession, thoy gave vent to their pity by tears.

Their tears, indeed, like those of children, were always ready to express any passion that
was strongly excited, and like those of children they also appeared to be forgotten as soon
as shed ; of which the following, among many others, is a remarkable instance. Very
early in the morning of the 28th, even before it was day, a great number of them came
down to the fort, and Terapo being observed among the women on the outside of the gate,
Jlr. Banks went out and brought her in ; ho saw that the tears then stood in her eyes, and
as soon as she entered they began to flow in great abundance : he inquired earnestly the
cause, but instead of answering she took from under her garment a shark's tooth, and struck
it six or seven times into her head with great force ; a profusion of blood followed, and she
talked loud, but in a most melancholy tone, for some minutes, without at all regarding his
inquiries, which he repeated with still more impatience and concern, while the other Indians,
to his great surprise, talked and laughed, without taking the least notice of her distress.
But her own behaviour was still more extraordinary. As soon as the bleeding was over,
she looked up with a smile, and began to collect some small pieces of cloth, which during
her bleeding she had thrown down to catch the blood j as soon as she had picked them all
up, she carried them out of the tent, and threw them into the sea, carefully dispersing
them abroad, as if she wished to prevent the sight of them from reviving the remembrance
of what she had done. She then plunged into the river, and after having washed her
whole body returned to tho tents with the same gaiety and cheerfulness as if nothing had
happened.

It is not, indeed, strange, that the sorrows of these artless people should be transient,
any more than that their passions should be suddenly and strongly expressed : what they
feel they have never been taught either to disguise or suppress, and having no habits of
thinking which perpetually recall the past and anticipate the future, they are affected by all

"JW-

Arnii., 17C1).

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROTUND THE WORLD.

tlio changes of tlio passiiip; liour, and reflect tlio colour of tlie time, liowcver frequently it
may vary ; tliey liavc no project wliieli is to bo pu'-siied from tlay to day, the siiJyeet of
unremitted anxiety and solicitude, that first rushes into their mind when they awake in the
morning, and is last dismissed when they sleep at night. Yet if wo admit that they
arc upon the whole happier than we, wo must admit that the child is lia])picr than the
man, and that wo arc losers hy the perfection of our nature, the increase of our knowledge,
and the enlargement of our views.

CANORS OF OTAIIEITE.

iion that

as soon
Very
^m came
;he gate,
|yes, and
fstly the
Id struck

and she
rding his
Indians,
Idistress.
'as over,
|x during

;hcni all
Ispcrsing

nbrancc
llicd her

ling had

fansient,
liat they
Itabits of
by all

Canoes were continually coming in during all this forenoon, and the tents at the fort were
crowded with people of both sexes from different parts of the island. I was myself busy on
board the ship, but Mr. ]\[olincux, our master, who was one of those that made the last
voyage in the Dolphin, went on shore. As soon as ho entered Sir. Banks's tent lie fixed
his eyes upon one of the women, who was sitting there with great composure among the
rest, and immediately declared her to bo the j)crson who at that time was supposed to be
the queen of the island ; she also, at the same time, acknowledging him to bo one of the
strangers whom she had seen before. The attention of all present was now diverted from
every other object, and wholly engaged in considering a person who had made so distinguished
a figure in the accounts that had been given of this island by its first discoverers ; and wo
soon learnt that her name was Oberea. She seemed to bo about forty years of age, and
was not only tall but of a largo make ; her skin was white, and there was an uncommon
intelligence and sensibility in her eyes ; she appeared to have been handsome when she was
young, but at this time little more than memorials of her beauty were left.

As soon as her quality was known, an offer was made to conduct her to the ship. Of
this she readily accepted, and came on board with two men and several women, who seemed
to be all of her family : I received her with such marks of distinction as I thought would
gratify her most, and was not sparing of my presents, among which this august personage
seemed particidarly delighted with a child's doll. After some time spent on board, I attended
her back to the shore ; and as soon as we landed, she presented me with a hog and several
bunches of plantains, which she caused to bo carried from her canoes up to the fort in a kind
of procession, of which she and myself brought up the rear. In our way to the fort we met
Tootahah, who, though not king, appeared to bo at this time invested with the sovereign
authority ; he seemed not to be well pleased with the distinction that was showed to the
lady, and became so jealous when she produced her doll, that to propitiate him it was

; m

COOKS FIRST VOYAGK ROUND THE WORF.D.

A PHI I., 17(*9«

thouglit proper to cimplinu'iit liim witli anotliLT. At this tiinn ho thoiiglit fit to prcft-r a
doll to a hatchot ; hut this priTcrt'iico amso only fnun a chihlish jciiloiiny, which cmihl not
1)0 soothfii hut hy a gift of t-xactly the same kind with that which had boon pri'sentcd to
Oherca ; for dolla in a very short tinio were universally considered as trifles of no vnhic.
The men who had visited us from time to time had, without scruple, eaten of our provisions ;
but tho women had never yet been prevaileil upon to taste a morsel. To-day, liowcvcr,
thongh they refused the most pressing solicitations to dino with the gentlemen, they after-
wards retired to tho servants' apartment, and ate of plantains very heartily ; a mystery of
female economy here, which none of us could ex|)lain.

On the 20th, not very early in tho forenoon, Mr. Banks went to pay his court to Oborca,
and was told that she was still asleep under the awning of lier canoe ; thither therefore ho
went, intending to call her up, a liberty which ho thought ho might take, without any
danger of giving oftence ; but, upon looking into her chamber, to his great astonishment ho
found her in bed with a handsome young fellow about fivc-and-twenty, whoso name was
OiiADKR ; ho retreated with some haste and confusion, but was soon made to understind,
that such amours gave no occasicm to scandal, and that Obadue Avas universally known to
have been selected by her as tho object of her private favours. The lady being too polite to
suft'er Mr. Banks to wait long in her antechamber, dressed herself with more than usual
expedition ; and, as a token of special grace, clothed him in a suit of fine cloth and proceeded
with him to the tents. In the evening Mr. Banks pai<l a visit to Tubourai Tamaide, as ho
liad often don«! before, by candle-light, and was equally grieved and surprised to find him
and his family in a nu'lanchidy mood, and most of tliem in tears ; he endeavoured in vain to
discover tho cause, and therefore his" stay among them was but short. When he reported
this circumstanco to the officers at the fort, they recollected that Owhaw had foretold, that
in four days wo should fire our great guns ; and as this was the ovo of tho third day, tho
situation in which Tubourai Tamaide and his family had been found alarmed them. The
oentries therefore were doubled at the fort, and tho gentlemen slept under arms. At two in
the morning, Mr. Banks himself went round the point, but found everything so quiet, that
ho gave up all suspicions of mischief intended by the natives as groundless. Wc had,
however, another sourci' of security, — our little fortification was now complete. The
north and south sides consisted of a bank of earth four feet and a half high on tho inside, and
a ditch without ten feet broad and six deep : on the west side, facing tho bay, there was
a bank of earth four feet high, and palisadoes upon that, but no ditch, the works here being
at high-water mark : on the east side, upon the bank of the river, was placed a double row
of water-casks, filled with water ; and as this was tho weakest side, the two four-pounders
were planted there, and six swivel guns wcro mounted so as to command tlie only two
avenues from the woods. Our garrison consisted of about fivc-and-forty men with small
arms, including the officers and the gentlemen who resided on shore ; and our sentries were
as well relieved as in tho best regulated frontier in Europe.

Wo continued our vigilance the next day, though we had no particular reason to think it
necessary ; but about ten o'clock in tho morning, Tomio came running to tho tents, with a
mixture of grief and fear in her countenance, and taking Mr. Banks, to whom they applied
in every emergency and distress, by the arm, intimated that Tubourai Tamaide was dying,
in consequence of something which our people had given him to eat, and that he must
instantly go with her to his house. Mr. Banks set out without delay, and found his Indian
friend leaning his head against a post, in an attitude of the utmost languor and despondency :
the pcoide about him intimated that he had been vomiting, and brought out a leaf folded up
with great care, which they said contained some of the poison, by tho deleterious effects of
which ho was now dying. ]Mr. Banks hastily opened the leaf, and upon examining its
contents found them to he no other than a chew of tobacco, which the chief had begged of
some of our people, and which they had indiscreetly given him : ho had observed that they
kept it long in the mouth, and being desirous of doing the same, he had chewed it to powder,
and swallowed the spittle. During the examination of the leaf and its contents, he looked
up at Mr. Banks with the most piteous aspect, and intimated that ho had but a very short
time to live. Mr. Banks, however, being now master of his disease, directed him to drink

i\fAv, irni).

COOKS FlllSr VOV.\(JE lUUM) TIIK WOULD.

•Ill

plentifully (if cocoa-nut n\ilk, wliicli in a slmrt tinic i>ut an ind ti) Iiis yickncss and appi v-
lionsidiiH ; ami lii' spimt tlio il;iy at tia- fort witli tiiat uncoinnion flow i)f clurrfulmws iiid
goofl liunioiir wliicli in uhvays iiroduceJ by a suddiii and uiu-xiKctcd nlicf from pain lillur
of body or min<l.

Cuptniu Wiillis iiaving broujt^Iit lionio one of tlif ad/i-s wliidi those jieojdc, liavinu: no
metal of any kind, inako of stone, Mr. Steven^', tlie seeretiirj to the Admiralty, ]iniLured
one to he made of iron in imitation of it. whirh I hroMjjlit )ut with uw. to hIiow how much
we excelled in making toola after their own fa!>liion ; iIiIm I I ad not yet I'rodueetl, as it never
happened to come into my mind. Itnt on the first of May Tootahah comin;r on board about
ten o'clock in the forenoon, expressed a great curiosity to see tlii^ contents of every chest and
drawer that was in my cabin : as I always made a jioint of f;ratif\ ing him, I opened them
immediately ; and having taken a fancy to many thin<;8 that he saw, and eollt cti <1 them
together, he at last happened to cast his eye upon this adze ; lie instantly snatehetl it up with
the greatest eagerness, and jmtting away everything which he had before sehcted, lit? a>ked
nio whether I would let him have that ; I readily consented ; and, as if he was afraid I
should repent, he carried it off immediately in a transport of joy, without making any other
request, which, whatever had been our liberality, was seldom the case.

About noon, a chief, who had dined with me a few days before, accompanied by some of
his women, canjo on board aloni- : I had observed that he was fed by his women, but I made
no doubt that upon occasion he would condescend to feed himself; in this, however. I fonnd
myself mistaken. When my n(d)le guest was seated, and the dinner njion the table, I helped
him to sonic victuals : as I observed that he did not immediately begin his meal, I pressed
him to cat ; but he still continued to sit niotionk>ss like a statue, without attempting to ])ut
a single morsel into his mouth, and would certainly have gone without his dinner, if one of
tho servants had not fed him.

think it
with a
applied

xs dying,
ic must

is Indian
ndency :

(dded up
ffeets of
ning its
egged of
hat they
powder,
e looked
ry short
to drink

CHAPTER XI. THE OBSERVATORY .SET UP ; THE QUADRANT STOLEN, AND CONSEaUENCES

OP THE THEFT : A VISIT TO TOOTAHAH : DE.SCRI1'T10N OF A WRESTLING-MATCIl : El'RO-
PEAN SEEDS SOWN : NAMES GIVEN TO OCR PEOPLE BY THE INDIANS.

In the afternoon of Monday the Ist of ilay, we set up the observatory, and took tho
astronomical quiidrant, with some other instruments, on shore, for the first time. The next
morning, about nine o'clock, I went on shore with ^Ir. Green to fix the quadrant in a
situation for use, when to our inexpressible surprise and concern it was not to Ik' found. It
had been deposited in the tent which was reserved for my use, where, as I jiassjd the night
on boiird, nobody slejit : it had never been taken <iut of the i>aeking-ease, w hich was
eighteen inches squ:>re, and the whole was of considerable weight ; a sentinel had been
posted the whole night w'tliir. five yards of the tent door, and none of the other iiistiumcnts
were missing. We at first suspected tliat it might have been stolen by some of our own
people, who seeing a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might think it contained
nails, or some other subjects of traffic with the natives. A large reward was therefore
offered to any one who could find it, as. without this, we could not perform the service for
which our voyage was principally undertaken. Our search in the mean time was not con-
fined to the fort and places adjacent, but as the case might possibly have been carried
back to the ship, if any of our own people had been the thieves, the most diligent search
was made for it on board ; all the parties, however, returned without any news of the
quadrant. Mr. Banks, therefore, who upon such occasions declined neither labour nor rit^k,
and who had more influence over the Indians than any of us, determined to go in search of
it into the woods ; he hoped, that if it had been stolen by the natives, he should find it
wherever they had opened the box, as they would immediately discover that to them it
would bo wholly useless : or, if in this ex])ectaiion he should be disappointed, that he might
recover it by the ascendancy he had acquired over the chiefs. lie set out, accompanied by
a midshipman and i\Ir. Green, and as he was crossing the river he was met by Tuhourai
Tamaidc, who immediately made the figure of a triangle with three bits of straw upon his

fiO

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

iMay, 1709.

i^i

hand. By this Mr. Bunks knew that the Indians were the thieves ; .and that, although
thoy had opened tlic case, tliey were not disposed to part with the contents. No time was
therefore to be lost, and Mr. Banks made Tubourai Taniaide understand, that he must
instantly go with him to the place whither t'o quadrant had been carried; he consented, and
they set out together to the eastward, the oiiicf inquiring at every house which thoy passed
alter the thief by name : tlie people readily told liim which way he was gone, ana how long
it was since he liad been there : the hope which this gave them that they should overtake
him, supported them under their fatigue, and tliey pressed forward, sometimes walking,
sometimes running, though the weather was intolerably hot ; when they bad climbed a hill
at the distance of about four miles, their conduct(>r showed them a point full three miles
farther, and gave them to understand that they were not to expect the instrument till they
had got thither. Here they paused ; they had no arms, except a pair of pistols, which
]Mr. Banks ahvays carried in his pocket ; they were going to a place tliat was at least seven
miles distant from the fort, where the Indians might be less submissive than at home, and
to take from them what they had ventured their lives to get, and what, notwithstanding
our conjectures, they a]ipeared desirous to keep : these were discouraging circumstances,
and their situat on would become more critical at every step. They determined, however,
not to relinquisli their enterjirise, nor to pursue it without taking the best measures for
their security that were in their power. It was therefore determined, that Air. Banks and
Mr. Green shouhl go on, and that the midshipman should return to me, and desire that I
would senl a ]\arty of men after them, acquainting me, at the same time, that it was impos-
sible they should return till it "as dark. Upon receiving this message, I set out, with
such a party as I thought suffic'ent for tbe occasion ; leaving orders, both at the ship .and
at the fort, that no canoe should be suflercd to go out of the bay, but that none of the
natives should be seized or detained.

In the mean time, Air. Banks and Air. Green purstied their journey, under the auspices
of Tubourai Tamaide, and in the very spot which he h.ad specified, they met one of his
own people, witli jiart of tlie quadrant in his liand. At this most welcome sight they
stopped ; and a great number of Indians immediately ca:.-.c up, some of wiiom jiressing
rjvther rndely upon them, Air. Banks thought it necessary to show one of his pistols, tlie
sight of which reduced them instantly to order : as the crowd that {.othcred round them
was every moment increasing, he marked out a circle in the grass, ana they ranged them-
selves on the outside of it to the number of sever.al hundreds with gre.at qr.ietness and
decorum. Into the middle of this circle, the box, which was now arrived, was ordered to
be brought, with several reading-glasses, and other small matters, which in their huriy they
had put into a pistol-case, that Air. Banks knew to be his property, it having b.en oonio
time before st<den from the tents, with a horse-pistol in it, which he immediately de nandc;.',
and wliicii was .also restored. Air. (ireen was impatient to see whether all that hao been
t.aken away was returned, and upon exaniining the box found the stand, and a fen- small
things of less consequence, wanting; several persoi s were sent in search of thesr, and most
of the small things v ere returned : but it v as signified tliat the thief had not brought the
stand so far, and that it would be delivered to our friends as they went buck ; this hc'w '
confirmed by Tubourai Taniaide, tliey pre])ared to return, as nothing would then be wantin-'
but what might easily be supjjlied ; and aft'r they had .advanced about two miles, I
met them with my party, to our mutual satisfaction, congratulating each other upon
the recovery of the quadrant, with a pleasure proportionate to the importance of the
event.

About eight o'clock. Air. Banks with Tubourai Tamaide got back to the fort ; when t^)
his gre.at surprise, he found Tootahah in custody, pnd many of the natives in the utm<.st
terror and distress, crowding about the gate, lie • eiit hastily in, s'juie of the Indians
were suffered to follow him, and the scene was extremely aftectin< . Tubour.ai Tamaide
pressin^, forward, ran up to Tootahali, .and catching him in his arms, they both burst into
te.ars, and wept over each other, without being able to spe.ak : the othtr Indians were also
in tears for their chief, both he and they being strongly possessed with tlie noti(m tliat he
was to be put to deatli. In this situation they continued till I entered the fort, which was

AY, 1700.

Mav, 17<'>0.

COfiK'S FUlSi' VOVAGE IU>1 ND iUK WOULD.

although

time was

he must
cnted, and
loy passi'd

how long
I overtake
3 walking,
ihcd a hill
hree miled
it till they
tols, which
least seven
homo, and
thstanding
lunistanccs,
I, however,
leasures for
Banks and
esire that I
was inipos-
t out, with
he ship and
none of the

the auspices
one of his
J sight they
om ])ressing
pis-tuls, the
ound them
ngod thcin-
ietness and
ordered to
huriy they
b.eR oome
deniandcl,
|;it hao Lit;'n
a fev,- small
|i-, and most
ruiioht the
this ln'ii>4
be wantin-^
o miles, I
ther upon
nee of the

It ; when in

the iitmi.st

llic Indians

|ai Tan) aide

burst into

Is were also

lion that he

which was

about a quarter of an hour ai'tcrwards. I was equally suiitrised and conctrnod at what liad
happened, the confiiiing Tontahah being contrary to my orders, and therefore instantly set
him at liberty. Upon inquiring into t'le affair, I was toll, that my going into the \MJod9
with a ; arty of men under anus, at a tiiiu! when a robbery had been committed, wliieli it
was supposed I should resent, in jiroportion to our apparent injury by tlic loss, had so
alarmed tlie natives, that in the evening they began to leave tlie neighbourhood of ihe fort
with their effects : that a double canoe having been soeii to put off frum the bottom of thu
bay by Jlr. Gore, the second lieutenant, who was left in command on board the shi]), and
wlio had received orders not to suffer any canoe to go out, ho scut the boatswain with a
boat after her to bring her back : that as soon as the boat came up, tlie Indians being
alarmed, leaped into tiie sea ; and that Tootahah, being unfortunately one of the number,
the boatswain tool'. Iiim up, and brought him to tlie sliip, suffering the rest of the people to
swim on shore: that Mr. Gore, not suiHciently attending to the order that none of the
people sliould be confined, had sent him to the fort, and Mr. I licks, the first lieutenant,
who commanded there, receiving him in charge from Mr, Gore, did not think himself at
liberty to dismiss him. The nation th-^t we intended to put him to death had possessed
him so strongly, that he could not be |v rsuaded to the contrary till by my orders lie was
led out of the fort. The people received him as they would have done a father in the samo
circumstances, and every one pressed forward to embrace him. Sadden joy is commonly
liberal, without a scruiiulous regard to merit : and Tootahah, in the first expansion of his
heart, upon being unexpectedly restored to liberty and life, insisted upon our receiving a
present of two hogs ; though, being conscious that upon this occasion we had no claim to
favours, wo refused them many times.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr attended the next morning in their usual capacity of inar-
ketmen, but very few Indians appeared, and those who came brought no provisions.
Tootahah, however, sent some of his people for the canoe that had been detained, which
they took away. A canoe having also been detained that belonged to Oberea, Tupia, the
person who managed her affairs when the Dolphin was hero, was sent to examine whether
aiiytliing on board had been taken away : and he was so well satisfied of the contrary, that
he left the canoe where he found it, and joined us at the fort, where he spent the day, and
slept on board the canoo at night. About noon, some fishing-boats came abreast of the
tents, but would part with very little of what they had on board ; and wc felt the want of
cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit very severely. In the course of the day, Mr. Banks walked out
into the woods, that by conversing with the people he might recover their confidence and
good-will: ho found them civil, but they all complained of the ill-treatment of their chief ;
wiio, they said, had been beaten and pulled by the hair. Mr. Banks endeavoured to con-
vince them, that he had suffered no personal violence, which to the best of our knowledge was
true; yet, perhaps the boii swain had behaved with a brutality which he was afraM or
ashamed to acknowledge. The chief himself being probably, upon reco'lection, of opinion
that we had ill deserved the hogs, which he had left with us as a present, sent a messenger
in the afternoon to demand an axe, and a shirt, in return : but as I was told that he did
i,ot intend to come down to liic fort for ten days, I excused myself from giving them till I
should see him, hoping that liis impatience might induce him to fetch them, and knowing
that absence would probably continue the coolness between us, to wiiich the first interview
iT.ight put an end.

The next day we were still more sensible of the inconvenience we had incurred by giving
offence to the people in the person of their chief, for the market was so ill sujjplie'l tliit we
were in want of necessaries. Air. Banks, therefore, went into the woods to Tubourai
Taniaide, and with some difficulty persuaded him to let us have five baskets of bread-fruit;
a very seasonable supply, as they contained above one hundred and twenty. In the after-
noon another messenger arrived from Tootaliah for the axe and shirt ; as it was now become
absolutely necessary to recover the friendship of this man, witluuit which it would bo
to procure provisions, I sent word that Mr. Banks

L>ly po

mys

:\\t

him on the morrow, and bring what lie wanted vith us. Early the next morning he
again to remind me of my promise, aud his perplo seemed to wait till wc should set out

E 2

COOK'S FIKST VO.YAUK ROUNI> THE WOULD.

May, I7t!0.

i '

with groat impatience : I therefore orderoJ the pinnace, in wliich I embarked with Mr.
Banks and Dr. Solander abont ten o'clock: wc took one of Tootahali's people in the boat
with ii!<, and in about an hour we arrived at his place of residence, which is called Ei'Ahuk,
and is about four miles to the westward of the tents.

Wq found tlic people waiting for us in great numbers upon the shore, so that it would
have been impossible for us to have proceeded, if wny had not been made for us by a tall
well-looking man, who had something like a turban about his head, and a long white stick
in his Iiand, with which he laid about him at an unnierciful rate. Tiiis man conducted us
to tlie eliief, while the people shouted round us, Taio Toota/ia/i, " Tootahah i^ your friend."
We found him, like an ancient patriarch, sitting under a tree, with a number of venerable
old men standing round him : lie made a sign to us to sit down, and immediately asV td for
his axe. Tliis I presented to him, with an upper garment of broad-cloth, made after the
country fashion, and trimmed with tape, to which I also added a shirt. IIo received them
with great satisfaction, and immediately put on the garment; but the shirt he gave to the
jierson who had cleared tlie way for us u])()n our landing, who was now seated by us, and of
whom he seemed desirous that we should take particular notice. In a short time, Obcrea,
and several other women Mhom we knew, came and sat down among us : Toolaiiah left us
several times, but after a short absence returned, — we thought it had been to show himself
in liis new finery to the peo]>le ; l)ut we wronged him, for it was to give directions for our
refresliment and entertainment. While we were waiting for his return tiie last time he kit
us, very impatient to be disuiissed, as we were almost suflt'ocatcd in the crowd, word was
brouglit us that he exjiccted us elsewhere. AVe found him sitting under the awning of our
own boat, and makini;' sii^ns that we should come to him ; as many of us, therefore, went on
board as tlie boat would hold, and he then ordered bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts to bo brought,
of botli wliich we ta^-ted, rather to ^ratifv him than because wc had a dc sire to eat. A
message was soon after brought him, upon which he went out of the boat, and we were in a
short time desind to follow. We were conducted to a largo area or court-yard, which was
niiled round with liambnos about thi'ee feet high, on one side of his house, where an enter-
tainment was iirovided for us, -'utirely new: this was a wrestling-match. At the upper end
of the area sat the chief, and several of his principal men were ranged on each side of him,
so as to form a semicircle; these were the Judges, by whom the victor was to be applauded.
Seats were also left for us at each end of the line ; but we chose rather to be at liberty among
the rest of the spectators.

When all was rea<ly, ten or twelve persons, whom wc understood to be the combatants,
and who were nakeil, except a cloth that was fastened about the waist, entered the area, and
walked slowly round it, in a stooping posture, witli their left hands on their right breasts,
and their right hands open, with which they frequently struck the left fore-arm so as to pro-
duce a quick smart sound. This was a general challenge tt) the combatants whom they were
to engage, or any other person i)resent. After these followed others in the same manner;
and then a i)articular challenge was given, by which each man singled out his antagonist:
this was done I)'- joining tlie finger-ends of both hands, and bringing them to the breast, at
' le same time moving the elbows up and down with a quick motion. If the jierson to whom
,nis was addressed accepted the challenge, he repeated the signs, and immediately each ]mi
himself into an attitude to engage ; the next minute they closed ; but, excejit in first seizing
each other, it was a more contest of strength. Each endeavoured to lay hold of the other,
iirst by the thigh, and, if that failed, i)y the harnl, the hair, the cloth, or elsewhere as ho
could. When tliis was done, they grappled, wit'uout tlie least dexterity or skill, till one of
them, l>y having a more advantageous bold, or greater muscular force, threw the other on his
back. When the contest was over, the ohl men gave their ])landits to the victor in a few
words, which they re|>eated together iu a kind of tune : his coi'.nnest, was also generally cele-
brated by three huzzas. The' entertainment was then suspended for a few minutes ; after
which another coujde of wrestlers came forward and engaged in the same manner. Jf it
happened that neither was thrown, after the 'jontest had continued about a minute, they
parted, either by eonsent or the intervention of their friends ; and in this ease each slapped
his arm, as u challenge to a ucvv engageiueufc either with the same antagonist or some other.

F <|w

^■:.

May, 1700.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Wliile the wrestlers were cnfra^rcd, another party of men performed a daiiec, which lasted
also about a minute; luit neither of these parties took tiie k-ast notice of each other, tlieir
attention heing wholly fixed on wliat tliey were doing. AVe observed with pleasure that the
conqueror never exulted over the vanquished, and that the vaiiquislied nevir repined at tho
success of the lonqtieror : the whole contest was carried on with perfect good-will and good-
hnniour, thougli in the presence of at least live hundred s])ectat()rs, of whom some were
women. The nund)er of women, indeed, was comparatively small ; none but those of raidv
were j)resent ; and we had reason to believe that they would not have been spectators of this
exercise but in com])liment to us. This lasted about two hours ; during all which time the
man who had made way for us when wo lauded, kept tlie people at a ]ir<ti)er distance by
striking those who jiressed forward very severely with his stick. Tpon inquiry, we learnt
that he was an officer belonging to Tootali.ah, acting as a master of the ceremonies.

It is scarcely possible for those who are acquainted with the athletic sjiorts of very remote
antiquity, not to remark a rude resemblance of them in this wrestling-match among the
natives of a little island in the midst of the Pacific Ocean ; and even our feniale readers may
recollect the account given of them by Fenebm in his Telemiulius, where, thorigh the events
are fictitious, the manners of the age are faithfully transcribed from authors by wiiom tlu'y
are .«uppo.sed to have been truly related.

When the wrestling was over, we were
jriven to understand that two hoo;s and a
large quantity of bread-fruit were ])rcparing
for our dinner, which, as our ap]ietites were
nov/ keen, was very agreeable intelligence.
Our host, however, .seenied to repent of his
liberality; for, instead of setting his two hogs
before us, he ordered one of them to be car-
ried into our boat. At first we were not
sorry for this new disjiosition of matters,
thinking that we should dine more comfort- ^
ably in tho boat than on shore, as the crovd
would more easily be kept at a distance ; but
when we came on boanl, he ordered us to
proceed with his hog to the ship. Tliis was
mortifying, as we were now to row four miles
while our dinner was growing cold ; however,
wc thought tit to eomj)ly, and were at last
gratified with the cheer that he h.ul jirovidcd,
of which ho and Tubourai Tam;,ide had a liberal share. Our reconciliation with this in;ti\
operated upon tho people like iv eharui ; for he vas no sooner know\i to be on board, than
bread-fruit, cocoa-niits, and othei jirovisions, were brouglit to the fort in great plenty.

Affairs now went on in tlu' useal channel ; but pork being still a scarce couunodity, our
master, Mr. Mollineu.x, and Air. vJreen, went in the pinnace to the eastward, on the }lth,
early in the morning, to see whethei tl'ei could jn-ocure any bogs or poultry iu that ])art of
the country : they proceeded in that <lirection twenty miles ; but though they saw many
hogs, and one turtle, they could not p>irehaso either at any j>ricc: the people everywhere
told them, that they all belonged toToot.ihah, and that Miey could sell none of them witluuit
his permission. We now began to think that this man was indied a great ju-ince ; for an
influence so extensive and al)solute coidd be acquired by no other. And wc afterwa -ds
found that he adniinisten d the govirnminit of this part of the island, as sovi relgu, for a
minor whom we never saw all the time that we were upon it. When Air. (Jreeu uturiied
from this expedition, he said he had seen a tne of a size which he wa- afraid to relate, it
being no less than sixty yards in circumference; but Air. Banks and Dr. 8(dauder so.m
explained to him, that it was a species of the fig, the biandus of which, bending down,
take fresh root in the earth, and thrs form a congeries of trunks, which beiuf verv ''lose to

IIKAO 111' AN or.MllirAN.

cac

h otl

ler, and

I all

jome

dby

a common vegetation, might easily he mistaken for one

■i ^r

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1769.

•!: 1

'* \

m \H

tiri

ll '

Though tlie market at the fort was now tolerably supplied, provisions were brought more
slowly ; a sufficient quantity used to bo purchased between sunrise and eight o'clock, but it
was now become necessary to attend the greatest part of the day, Mr. Banks, therefore,
fixed Itis little boat tjp before the door of the fort, which was of great use as a place to trade
in: hitlierio wo had purchased cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit f(jr beads; but the market
becoming rather slack in these articles, we were now, for the first time, forced to bring out
our nails: one of cur smallest size, which was tabont four inches long, procured us twenty cocoa-
nuts, and bread-fruit in proportion, so that in a short time our first plenty was reston^d.

On tlie yth, soon after bi'eakfast, we received a visit from Oberea, being the first that slie
had made us after the loss of our quadrant, and the unfortunate confinement of Tootahah ;
with her came her present favourite, Obadoe, and Tnpia : they brought us a hog and some
bread- fruit, in return for wliich we gave her a hatchet. We had now afforded our Indian
friends a new and interesting object of curiosity, our forge, wliich having been set up some
time, was almost constantly at work. It was now common for them to bring pieces of iron,
w hich we suppose they must have got from the Dolphin, to be nn\de into tools of various
kinds ; and as I was very desirous to gratify them, they were indulged except wlien the
smith's time was too preeiaus to be spared. Oberea having received her hatchet, produced
as much old iron as would have made another, witli a request that another might be made
of it ; in thif-, however, I could not gratify her, upon whieli slie brought out a broken axe,
and desii-ed it might be mended : I was glad of an oi)i)ortunity to compromise the difterenco
between us; her axe was mended, and she appeared to be content. Thoy went away at
night, and took with them the canoe, which had been a considerable time at the point, but
promised to return in three days.

On the 10th, I put some seeds of melons and other plants into a spot of ground which
had l>een turned up for the purpose ; they had all been sealed up by the person of whom
they wi-re bought, in small bottles with rosin ; but none of them came up except mustard ;
even the encumbers and melons failed, and Mr, Banks is of opinion that they were spoiled
by tlie total exclusion of fresh air.

This day we le.'irnt the Indian name of the island, which is Otaiikite, and by tliat name
I slia!) hereafter distingui;;!! it : but after great pains taken we found it utterly impossible
to ttach the Indians to pronounce our names ; we had, tlierefore, new names, contiibting of
sueli sounds as tiiey prodoced in the attempt. Tliey called me Tootc ; Mr. IJick.s, llete ;
IMollineux tlioy renovmced in absolute despair, and called the j\Iaster Boha. from his Chris-
tian nanje Koliert; Mr, Gore was Ton fro ; l)r, Solander, Tofinio ; and Mr, Bunks,
2\ij)'inc ; 3Ir. (jireen, Eteme ; Mr. Parkinson, Pal'tni ; Sir, Sporing, PuUh'i ; IVtersgill,
Pitroilro i and in this nntnner they had now formed names for alniD^^t every man in the
shi|> : in some, however, it ^^us not easy to find any traces of the oriijinal, and tliey were
perliaps not mere arbitrary sounds formed upon the occasion, but significant words in tlielr
own language. Monkhouse, the mids)iipn\an, who commanded the party tiiat killed the
man for stealing the miii^ket, they called 3/^c<fc; not merely i)/ an attempt to imitate in
sound the first syllable of ^lonkiiouse, but because Matte signifies dead; and this probably
might be the case with others.

f.l

CITAPTKK XII. — SOME LAHIDS VISIT TIIK KOUT WITH VFIUY UNCOMMON CERKMONIES : THE
IXDIA.NS ATTi;.\U KIVINE SEUVICE, AND IN THE EVEMNn EXIIIIUT A MOST EXTUAOH-
KAUV spectacle: TinUllUAl T.'.MAIDE lAIJ.S INTO TEMPTATIO.N.

FniUAV, the 12th of May, was distintruisiu'd by a visit from some ladies whom wc had
n*'vek' scin before, and who introduced tiiemselves with some verv siutrulur ceremonies.
3lr. Banks was trading in his boat at the gate of the fort as usual, in company with
Tootahah. who had tliat morning ](aid him a visit, and some other of tiie nativts ; between
nine and ten </ch)ck, a double canoe came to the landing-place, under the awning of wliicli
sat a man and two women ; the Indians tliat were about Mr. Banks made signs that he
should go out to meet them, which lie hastened to do; but by the time he could get out of

May, I7ra.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

wssiblo
sting of

Ht'te ;
;S Cliris-

Biinks,

•tersgill,

an ill the

icy were

u their

illod tho

uiitate in

probably

ES : THE

\ we bad
omonii's.
uiv with

iR'tWCCU

tbc boat, they bad advanced witbin ten yards of biiii ; tbcy tbcn stopped, and niado signs
tbat bu should do so too, laying down about a dozen young plantain-trees, and some other
small plants : lie complied, and tbc people having made a lane between tbem, tbc man,
who appeared to be a servant, brou;;ht six of them to Jfr. Banks by one of each at a time,
passing and repasrsing six times, and always j)ronouneing a short sentence wben be delivered
them. Tu|)ia, who stood by jVIr. Banks, acted as bis ma^'ter of the ceremonies, and receiv-
ing the branches as they were brought, laid them down in the boat. When this was done,
another man brought a large bundle of cloth, which haviiig oj)ened, be spread piece by piece
upon the ground, in the space between iMr. Banks and bis visitors ; there were nine pieces,
and having laid three pieces one iipcm another, the foremost of the women, who seemed to
be the principal, and who was called Oorattooa, stepped upon tbem, and taking uji her
garments all round her to the waist, turned about, with great composure and deliberation,
and with an air of perfect innocence and simplicity, three times ; wben this was done, she
dropped the veil, and stepi)iug off the cloth, three more pieces were laid on, and she
repeated the ceremony, then stejijjing off as before, tbc last three were laid on, and tho
ceremony was repeated in the same manner tbc third time. Immediately after this the
cloth was rolled up, and given to Mr. Banks as a present from tbc lady, who, with her
friend, came u]) and saluted him. He made sucli presents to them both, as he thought
would be most acceptable, and after having staid about an hour they went away. In the
evening the gentlemen at the fort bad a visit from Oherea, and her favourite female attend-
ant, wliose name was Otheothea, — an agreeable girl, whom they were the more pleased to
see, because, having been some days absent, it bad been reported she was either sick or
dead.

On the 13tb, tlie market being over al)out ten o'clock, j\Ir. Banks walked into tbc woods
■with bis gun, as be generally did, for tbe benefit of the shade in the beat of the day : as bo
was returning back, lie met Tubourai Tamaide, near bis occasional dwelling, and stoj)])ing
to spend a little time with him, be suddenly took the gun out of Mr. Banks's band, cocked
it, and, holding it up in tiie air, drew tbe trigger: fortunately for bim it flashed in tbc pan:
Afr. JJanks immediately took it from him, not a little surprised how be had accpiired suflii-
cient knowledge of a gun to discharge it, and reproved bim with great severity for what bo
bad done. As it was of infinite importance to keep the Indians totally ignorant of tho
management of fire-arms, be had taken every oj>])ortuuity of intimating tluvt they could
never offend him so highly as by even touching bis [)iece ; it was now proper to enforce this
prohibition, and be therefore added threats to bis reproof : the Indian bore all jiatiently ;
but the moment Mr. Banks crossed the river, be set off with all bis family aiid furniture for
bis house at Eparre. This being quickly known from the Indians at the fort, and great
inconvenience being apprehended frt>m the displeasure of this man, who upon all occasions
bad been particulariy useful, j\lr. Banks determined to follow him without delay, and solicit
bis return : h(< set out tho same evening aceomjianied by ilr, Moliineux, and found bim
sitting in tbe middle of a large circle of people, to whom he bad i)r()l)ably related what bad
bajjpened, and his fears of tlu) consequeiures ; be was himj^clf tbe \( ry picture of grief and
d<jectioo, and tlie same ])assions were strongly marked in the countenances of all tbe j)eoplo
tbat surrounded him. Wiien Mr. Banks and iSlv. Moliineux went into tho circle, one of
tbe wouun cxpiessed her trouble, as 'J'erii.]io bad done ujion 'mother occasion, and struck a
shark's touth iiitu her bead several times, till it was covered with blood, ilr. Banks lost no
time in putting an eiul to this universid distress; bo assured the chief, that everytiiiiip' which
bad passed slioobl be forgotten, that there was not the |ea-^t animosity reniaii.iiu on one
i.ide, nor anything Id bu fi (ind on the other. Tho chief was soon »oothed into eoufidenco
and complacency, a dduble (.'(lOOO wu« ordered to be got ready, they all returned together to
the f'trt before siiji])er, ami iim u pledge of perfi ct reconciliation, both be and his vvifi> slept all
night in Mr. Banks's tent: their j)resence, i.owever, was no palladium ; for, between eieveu
and twelve o'clock, one of tbe natives attempted to get into the fort l)y scaling the wills,
with a design, no doubt, lo steal whatever be should bajtpen to find ; be was discovered by
tho sentinel, who happily diil md, fire, and bo ran away umch faster than any of our ]ieoplc
could follow bim. Ihv. iron, and iron-tools, wbicb were in continual use at the armourer's

m
1

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGR ROUND THE WORI '».

May, 17G9.

forge, that was set up within the works, were temptations to theft which none of these
peojile c'oiihl withstand.

On tlic I4tli, whicli was Sunday, I directed that divine service should he performed at
the fort : wo were desirous tli.at some of tiie principal Indians should he present, but when
tlio hour canio, most of them were returned home. ]Mr. Banks, however, crossed the river,
and hrouj^ht hack Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio, ho])\ng that it would give occasion
to some inquiries on their part, and some instruction on ours : having seated them, he
placed himself between them, and during the wliolc service, they very attentively observed
liis bciiaviour, and very exactly imitated it ; standing, sitting, or kneeling, as they saw him
do : they were conscious that we were employed a1>o\it somewhat serious and imiwrtant, as
appeared by their calling to the Indians witiiout the fort to be silent ; yet when the service
was over, neither of them asked any questions, nor would they attend to any attempt that
was made to explain what had been done.

Such were our matins ; our Indians thought fit to perform vespers of a very different
kind. A young man, near six feet high, performed the rites of Venus with a little girl
about eleven or twelve years of age, before scneral of our j)eople, and a great number of the
natives, without the least sense of its being indecent or improper, but, as appeared, in per-
fect conformity to the custom of the jdace. Among the spectators were several women of
sujierior rank, particularly Oberea, who may properly be said to have assisted at the cere-
mony ; for they gave instructions to the girl how to perform her part, whicli, young as she
was, she did not seem much to stand in need of.

This incident is not mentioned as an object of idle curiosity, but as it deserves considera-
tion in determining a question which' has been long debated in philosophy ; Whether the
shame attending certain actions, which are allowed on all sides to be in themselves innocent,
is implanted in nature, or superinduced by custom ? If it has its origin in custom, it will,
perhaps, be found difficult to trace that custom, however general, to its source; if in instinct,
it will be equalh" ditfieult to discover from what cause it is subdued, or at least over-ruled,
among these jwople, in whose manners not the least trace of it is to be found.

On the 14tli and hlth, we had another opportimity of observing the general knowledge
which these people had of any design tliat was formed am<ing them. In the night between
the 13tli and 14th, one of the water-casks was stolen from the outside of the fort : in the
morning, there was not an Indian to be seen wlio did not know that it was gone ; yet they
ai>peared not to have been trusted, or not to have been worthy of trust ; for they seemed
all of tliem disposed to give intelligence where it might be foui\d. Mr. Banks traced it to a
part of tlie bay where lie was told it had been put into a can.ie, but as it wa-* not of great
consequence he did not complete the discovery. When he returned, he was told by Tubou-
rai Tamaide, that another cask would be stolen before tiie morning : how he came by this
knowledge it is not easy to imagine ; that he was not a party in the design is certain, for he
came with iiis wife and his family to the ])laeo where tlie water-casks stood, and placing
their beds near them, he said he would himself be a |)ledg(! for tlieir safety, in despite of
the thief: of this, however, we would not admit; and making them understand that a
sentry would be placed to watch the casks till tlie morning, he removed the beds into Mr.
Banks's tent, where he and his family spent the night, making signs to the sentry when he
retired tliat he should keep his eyes open. In tlie night this intelligence appeared to bo
true; about twelve o'clock the thief came, but discovering that a watch had been set, ho
went away without his booty.

i\Ir. Banks's c(»nfidi'nce in Tubourai Tamaide had greatly increased since the affair of the
knife ; in eonsequenee of which he was at length e.xjjosed to temi)tations which neither his
integrity nor his honour was able to resist. They had withsto' d many allurements, but
were at length ensnared by tin- fascinating charms of a basket of nails : these nails were
much larger tlian any that had yet been brought into trade, and had, with perluqis some
degree of criminal negligence, been left in a corner of Mr. Banks's tent, to which the chief
lia 1 (\lw:iys tree access. One of these nails Mr. Banks's servant happened to see in his
jiossession, upon his having inadvertently thrown back that part of his garment under which
it was concealed. JMr. Banks being told of this, and knowing that no such thing had been

Mav, 17fi9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

«7

given liim, citlior as a jircsent or in barter, iniinediately examined the basket, and discovered
tliat out of seven nails five were missing. He then, though not without great rehictance,
charged him with the fact, whicii lie immediately confessed, and liowever he might siifi'er,
■was probably not more liurt than his accuser. A demand was immediately made of
restitution ; but this he declined, saying that the nails were at Ei)arrc : however, ^\r. Banks
appearing to be much in earnest, and using some threatening signs, ho thought fit to produco
one of them. He was then taken to tlio fort, to receive such judgment as should be given
against him by the general voice. After some deliberation, that we might not appear to
think too lightly of his offence, he was told tliat if he would bri:ig the otiier four nails to the
fort, it should be forgotten. To this conditiim ho agreed ; but { am sorry to say he did not
fulfil it. Instead of fetching the nails, ho removed with his fiimily before night, and took
all his furniture with him.

As our long-boat had appeared to be leaky, I thought it necessary to examine her bottom,
and, to my great surprise, found it so much eaten by the worms, that it was necessary to give
her a new one ; no such accident had hajipened to the Dolphin's bouts, as I was informed
by the officers on board, and therefore it was a misfortune that I did not expect : I ftared
that the pinnace also might be nearly in the same condition ; but, upon examining her, I
liad the satisfaction to find that not a worm had touched her, though she was built of the
same wood, and had been as much in the water : the reason of this difference I imagine to
be, that the long-boat was payed with varnish of pine, and the pinnace painted with white
lead and oil ; the bottoms of all boats, therefore, which are sent into this country, should be
painted like that of the pinnace, and the shi])S should be sui)plied with a good stock, in
order to give them a new coating when it should be found necessary.

Having received repeated messages from Tootahah, that if we would pay him a visit he
would acknowledge the favour by a present of four hogs, 1 sent Mr. Hicks, my first lieu-
tenant, to try if he could not procure the hogs upon easier terms, \\\t\\ orders to show him
every civility in his power. Mr. Hicks found that he was removed from Eparre to a place
called Tkttaiiaii, five miles farther to the westward. He was received with great
cordiality ; one hog was immediately produced, and ho was told that the other three, which
were at some distance, should be brought in the morning. Mr. Hicks readily consented to
stay ; but the morning came without the hogs, and it not being convenient to stay longer,
he nturned in the evening with the one he had got.

On Mie 2.'»th, Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio made their appearance at the tent,
f(T the first time since he had been detected in stealing tue nails ; he seemed to be under
seme discontent and apprehension, yet he did Uui think fit to purchase our coimtenance and
good-will by restoring the four which he had sent away. As IMr. Banks and the other
gentlemen treated him with a coolness and reserve which did not at all tend to restore hia
peace or good-humour, his stay was short, and his departure abrupt. Mr. IMonkhouse, the
surgeon, went the next morning in order to effect a reconciliation, by persuading him to bring
down the nails, but he could not succeed.

CHAPTER IX. ANOTIIKR VISIT TO TOOTAIIAIT, WITH VARIOUS AnVRNTrRFS. T:XTRAOR-

DINAUY AMUSI;M|;NT 01' TlIU INDIANS, WITH REMAIUvS UPON IT. PKKPARATIONS TO

OUSKllVE TllK TRANSIT OP VENUS, AND WHAT HAPPENED IN THE MEAN TIME AT THE
FOUT.

On the 27th, it was determined that we should pay our visit to Tootahah, though we
were not very confident that we should receive the hogs for our pains. I therefore set out
early in the morning, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and three others, in the pinnace.
He was now riinoved from Tettahah, where Mr. Hicks had seen him, to a i)lace called
Atahoi'hou, about six miles farther; and as we could not go above half-way thither in the
boat, it was almost evening before we arrived : we found him in his usual state, sitting under
a tree, with a great crowd about him. We made our presents in duo form, consisting of
a yellow stuff petticoat, and some other trifling articles, which were graciously received ; a

■j!:'

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

INI AY, 1700.

liog was immediately ordered to be killed and dressed for supper, with a promise of more in
the morning : however, as we were less desirous of feasting ui)on our journey than of carry-
ing back witii us provisions, which would be more welcome at the fort, wo procured i\
reprieve for the iiog, and supped upon the fruits of the country. As night now came on,
and tlie place was crowiled witii many more tlian the liouses and canoes wonid contain,
there being Oberea witli lur attendants, and many other travellers whom wo knew, wo
began to look out for lodgings. Our party consisted of six : Mr. Hanks thought liimsclf
fortunate in being offored a place by Oberea in her canoe ; and wishing his friends a good,
niglit, took his leave, lie went to rest early, according to tlie custom of the coimtry, and
taking off his clothes, as was his constant practice, the nights being hot, Oberea kindly
insisted upon taking them into her own custody, for otherwise she said they would certainly
bo stolen, Mr. Banks having such a safegiuird, resigned himself to sleep witli all imaginable
tranquillity ; but waking about eleven o'clock, and wanting to get up, ho searched for his
clotlies where he had seen them deposited by OI)crea when he lay down to sleep, and soon
perceived that they were missing. He immediately awakened f)berea, who starting up,
and Iicaring his complaint, ordered liglits, and prepared in great haste to recover what ho
had lost. Tootaliali himself slept in tl»e next canoe, and Ijcing soon alarmed, he came to
tlieni, and set out with Oberea in search of the thief. ^Ir. Banks was not in a condition to
go witli tliem, for of his ap))arel scarce anytliing was left him bnt iiis breeches ; his coat and
his waistcoat, witli his pistols, ])owder-horn, and many other things that were in the pockets,
were gone. In about half an hour his two noble friends returned, bnt witliout having
obtained any intelligence of liis clothes or of the thief. At first he began to be alarmed;
his musket had not indeed been taken away ; but he had neglected to load it ; where I and
Dr. Solaiuler had disposed of ourselves he did not know; and therefore, whatever might
Jiajij^'u, he coulil not have recourse to us for assistance, lie thought it best, however, to
express neither fear nor snspicion of those about him, and giving his musket to Tupia, who
had been waked in the confusion, and stood by him, with a charge not to suffer it to be
stolen, he betook himself again to rest, declaring himself perfectly satisfied with the pains
tliat Tootahah and Oberea had taken to recover his things, though tliey iiad not been
successful. As it cannot be supposed that in such a situation his sleep was very sound, ho
soon after heard music, and saw lights at a little distance on shore : this was a concert or
assembly, which they call a lIinvA, a common name for every public exhibition; and as it
would necessarily iiring many peo))le together, and there was a ch.ance of my being among
them with his other friends, he rose, and made the best of his way towards it : he was soon
led by the lights and tlie sound to the hut where I lay, with three other gentlemen of our
party ; and easily distinguishing us from the rest, he made up to us more than half naked,
and told us his melancholy story. We gave him such comfort as the unfortunate generally
give to each other, b\' telling him that we were fellow-sufferers; I showed him that I was
myself without stockings, they having been stolen from under my head, though I was sure
I had never been asleep, and each of my associates convinced him, by his ajipearance, that
he hail lost a jacket. We determined, however, to hear out the concert, however deficient
we might appear in our dress ; it consisted of three drums, four flutes, and several voices :
when this entertainment, which lasted about an hour, was over, wc retired again to our
sleeping places; having agreed that nothing could be done toward the recovery of our things
till the morning.

We rose at day-break, according to the custom of the country : the first man that
Mr. Banks saw was Tupia, faithfully attending with his musket ; and soon after Oberea
brougiit him some of her country clothes, as a succedaneum for his own ; so that when ho
came to us he made a most motley nipearance, half Indian and half English. Our Jiarty
soon got together, except Dr. Solan whose quarters we did not know, and who had not
assisted at the concert : in a short tim lotahah made his appearance, and wo pressed him
to recover our clothes; but neither he uoi Oberea could be persuaded to take any measure
for that jiurposc, so that we began to suspect that they had been parties in the theft. About
eigiit o'clock we were joined by Dr. Solander, who had fallen into honester hands at a liouso
about a mile distant, and had lost nothing. Having given up all hope of recovering our

May, 1709.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

• things

Bin that

Ohorea

hen ho

jiarty

ad not

■ie

(1 him
neasnrc

About
a lioiiso
injj our

dotlios, which, indeed, were never afterwards lieard of, wc spent all the morning in soliciting
the hoga whicii we had been promised ; hut in this we had no better success : we therefore,
in no very good humour, set out for the boat about twelve o'clock, with only that wliich wo
had redeemed from the butcher and the cook th(^ night before.

As we were returning to the boat, however, we wito entertained with a sigh', that in
some measure couiiieiisated for our fatigue and ilisaiipointment. In our way we came to
one of tiie few places where access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and, consequently,
a high surf breaks upon the shore ; a more dreailful one, indeed, I had seldom seen ; it was
im|)ossible for any European boat to have livid in it ; and if the best swimmer in Europe
had, by any accident, been exposed to its fury, I am confident that he would not have been
able to preserve himself from drowning, especially as the shore was covered with pebbles
and large stones ; yet, in the midst of these breakers, were ten or twelve Indians swimming
for their anmsement : whenever a surf broke near them, they dived under it, and, to all
appearance with infinite facility, rose again on the other side. This diversion was greatly
improved by the stern of an old canoe, which they happened to fii\d upon the spot : they
took this before them, and swam out with it as far as the outermost breach, then two or
three of them getting into it, and turning the square end to the breaking wave, were driven
in towards the shore with incredible rapidity, sometimes almost to the beach ; but generally
the wave br(d;e over them before they got half way, in which case they dived, and rose on
the other side with the canoe in their hands : they then swam out witli it again, and were
again driven back, just as our holiday youth climb the hill in fireenwieh-))ark for the
l)leasure of rolling down it. At this wonderful scene we stood gazing for more than half an
hour, during which time none of the swimmers attempted to come on shore, but seemed to
enjoy their sport in the highest degree ; we then proceeded in our journey, and late in the
evening got back to the fort.

Upon this occasion it may be observed, that human nature is endued with powers whicli
arc only accidentally exerted to the utmost ; and that all men are capable of what no man
attains, excejit he is stimulated to the effort by some uncommon circumstances or situation.
Tiiese Indians effected what to us a])peared to bo supernatural, merely by the apjdication of
such powers as they possessed in conmion with us, and all other men who have no particular
infirmity or defect. The truth of the observation is also maiiifest from more familiar
instances. The rope-dancer and balance-master owe their art, not to any peculiar liberality
of nature, but to an accidental improvement of her common gifts ; and though equal diligence
and application would not always produce equal excellence in these, any more than in other
arts, yet there is no doubt hut that a certain degree of proficiency in them might be imiver-
sally attained. Another proof of the existence of abilities in mankind, that are almost
universally dormant, is furnished by the attainments of blind men. It cannot be supposed
that the loss of one sense, like the amputation of a branch from a tree, gives new vigour to
those that remain. Every man's hearing and touch, therefore, are capable of the nice
distinctions which astonish us in those that have lost their sight, and if they do not give
the same intelligence to the mind, it is merely because the same intelligence is not required
of them : he that can see may do from choice what the blind do by necessity, and by the
same diligent attention to the other senses may receive the same notices from them ; let it,
therefore, be remembered, as an encouragement to persevering diligence, and a principle of
general use to mankind, that he who does all he can will ever effect much more than is
generally thought to be possible.

Among other Indians that had visited us, there were some from a neighbouring island
which they called Eimko or Imao, the same to which Captain Wallis had given the name of
the Duke of York's Island, and they gave us an account of no less than two-and-twenty
islands that lay in the neighbourhood of Otaheite.

As the day of observation now approached, I determined, in consequence of some hints
which had been given me by Lord Morton, to send out two parties to observe the transit
from other situations ; hoping, that if we should fail at Otaheite, they might have better
success. We were, therefore, now busily cmidoyed in preparing our instruments, and
instructing such gentlemen in the use of them as I intended to send out. On Thursday the

I'l-

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE M'ORLD.

May, 17(i9.

lat of Juno, the Saturday following liuiug tlio day of tlio tl•an^sit, I dcspatclied ^fr. fJoro in the
long-hoat to Iniao, with Air. Monkhouso and Mr. yjmring, a giiitli-nian hdonging to ^^l•.
Banks, Mr. (Jrceu having furnisla-d thiin with jiroju'r inntruMU-nts. ]\[r. Hanks iiiinsclf
thonglit fit to go upon tliis t-xpi'dition, and sovcral natives, particularly Tuliourai Tamaido
and Toniio, were also of tho party. Vi'ry early on the Friday morning, I sent Mr, Hicks,
•with Mr. Clerk and jNfr. Petersgill, tho master's mates, and Mr. Saunders, one of tho
niidshipnien, in the pinnace to tho eastward, with orders to fix on some convenient spot, at
a distance from our prinei])al (djservatory, where they also might employ the instruments
with wiiieh they ha<l been furnished for the same purpose.

The long-boat not having been got ready till Thursday in the afternoon, though all possible
expedition was used to fit her out ; the people on board, after having rowed most part of
the night, brought her to a grappling just under the land of Imao. Soon after day-break,
they saw an Indian canoe, which they hailed, and the people on board showed them an
inlet througli tho reef into which they pulled, and soon fixed upon a coral rock, which rose
out of the water about one hundred and fifty yards from the shore, as a proper situation for
their observatory : it was about eighty yards long and twenty broad, and in tho middle of
it was a bed of white sand, largo enough for the tents to stand upon. Mr. Gore and his
assistants immediately began to set them up, and make other necessary preparations for the
important business of tho next day. AVhile this was doing, ^h. Banks, with the Indians
of Otahoite, and the people whom they had met in the canoe, went ashore upon the main
island, to buy i)rovisions ; of which he procured a sufficient supply before night. When ho
returned to tho rock, ho found the- observatory in order, and tho telescopes all fixed and
tried. Tho evening was very fine, yet their solicitude did not permit tliem to take much rest
in the night : one or other of tiiem was up every half hour, who satisfied tho impatience of
the rest by reporting tho changes of tho sky, now encouraging their iiope, by telling thoia
that it was clear, and now alarming their fears, by an account tiiat it was liaz}'.

At day-break they got up, and had tho satisfaction to sec tho sun rise without a cloud.
Mr. Banks then wishing the observers, Mr. Gore and jMr. Monkhouse, success, repaired
again to tho island, that ho might oxaniiuo its produce, and got a fresh supply of provisions :
lie began by trading with tho natives, for which purpose he took his station under a tree ;
and to keep them from pressing upon him in a crowd, ho drew a circle round him, which ho
suffered none of them to enter. About eight o'clock he saw two canoes coming towards tho
place, and was given to understand by the people about him that they belonged to Tarrao,
the king of tho island, who was coming to make him a visit. As soon as the canoes camo
ne.ar tlie shore, the people made a lane from the beach to tho tradiiig-])laco, and his Majesty
landed with his sister, whose name was Nuna ; as they advanced towards the tree where
Mr. Banks stood, ho wont out to meet them, and, with great formality, introduced tliom
into the circle from wliich the other natives had been exchided. As it is the custom of those
people to sit during all their conferences, Mr. Baidcs unwrapped a kind of turban of Indian
clotii, wliich he wore upon his head instead of a hat, and spreading it ujjon the ground, they
all sat down upon it together. The royal present was then brouglit, which consisted of a
hug and a dog, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of the like kind. Mv. Ban) '« 'icn.
despatched a canoe to the observatory for his present, and tho messengers soon returm. .' a
an adze, a shirt, and some beads, which were presented to his JMajesty, and receivcQ /ith
great satisfaction. By this time Tubourai Tamaido and Tomio joined them, fron the
observator}'. Tomio said, that she was related to Tarrao, and brought him a present of a
long nail, at the same time com])liinenting Nuna with a shirt.

"riic first internal contact of the planet with the sun being over, ^Mr. Banks returned to
the observatory, taking Tarrao, Nuna, and some of their princiital attendants, among whom
were tliroe very handsome young women, with him ; he showed them the planet upon the
sun, and endeavoured to make them understand that he and his companiims had come from
their own country on purpose to see it. Soon after Mr. Banks returned with them to the
island, where he spent the rest of the day in examining its i)i'oduco, which he fotind to bo
luueh the same with that of Otahoite. The people whom he saw there also exactly resembled
the iidiabitants of that island, and many of them were persons whom ho had secu upon it ; so

I i

fc,^;

.Tl NK, 1700.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGK ROUND THE WORLD-

tliat all tlioso wlioiii lio liatl iliiilt with knew of wliat liis tradliifr artitlrs consisted, and tlio
value tliey bore. The next niiiiiiing, having struek the tents, tliey set out on tlieir return,
and arrived at the fort liefore night.

The observation was made with (([ual suecess by the persons wlioin I had sent to the east-
ward ; and at tlie fort, there not being a eloud in the sky from the rising to tiie setting of tho
sun, the whole passage of the planet Venus over the sun's disk was observed with great
advantage by jNIr. (Ireen, Dr. Solander, and niysi'lf : Mr. (Jreen's teIesco])e and mine were
of the same magnifying jiower, but that of Dr. Solauder was greater. We all saw an
atmosphere or dusky eloud round the body of the jtlanet, which very much disturbed tho
times of contact, especially of the internal ones; and we differed from each other in our
accounts of the times of the contacts much more than might have been expected. According
to Mr. Green,

Tho first external contact, or first nppcarnncc of Venus on the sun, wns
The first iiitorniil contiict, or total eniiTsion, was . . . .

Tlic second internal contact, or beginning' of the emersion

The scconl external contact, or total oiucrsion . . . .

}

3 14 8
a 32 10

orning.
Afternoon.

The latitude of the observatory was found to be 17
20' !.->'', and the longitude 14«)" 32' .10'' W. of Green-
wich. A more p.artictdar account will appear by tho
tables, for which the reader is referred to the Trans-
actions of the Royal Society, vol. Ixi. part 2, page 3!)7,
ct .•»<'(/., where they arc illustrated by a cut.

But if we had reason to congratulate ourselves upon
the success of our observation, we had scarce less cause
to regret the diligence with which that time had been
improved by some of our people to another purpose.
Wliile the attention of the officers was engrossed by
the transit of Venus, some of the ship's comj)any broke
into one of tho store rooms, and stole a quantity of
sj)ike nails, amounting to no less tiian one hundred-
weight ; tins was a matter of public and serious
concern ; for these nails, if circulated by the peojde
among the Indians, wotdd do us irreparable injury,
by reducing the value of iron, our staple commodity.

One of the thieves was detected, but oidy seven nails ^. , , ,

. .... , , Ti • 1 1 -aI "• l'"'st contact of tlie planet with the limb

were fonnd v.i his custody. He was punished with „f ,1,^, gu„ '

two dozen laslies, but would imiieach none of his b, c, U, e. Successive stages of Its passaL-e.
accomplices. ^'* course ou leasing the bun's disk follows.

THE TRANSIT OF VK.NIS.

CnAPTF.R XIV. THE CERKMONIES OF AN INDIAN FUNERAL PARTICULARLY DESCRIRED :

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON TIIE SUIIJECT : A CHARACTER FOUND AMONG THE INDIANS
TO WHICH TIIE ANCIENTS I'AID GREAT VENERATION : A ROBllERY AT THE FORT, AND
ITS CONSEQUENCES : WITH A SPECIMEN OF INDIAN COOKERY, AND VARIOUS INCIDENTS.

On the r)th, we kept his Majesty's birth-day ; for though it is the 4th, we were unwilling
to celebrate it during the absence of the two ])arties who had been sent out to observe tho
transit. We h;ni several of the Indian chiefs at our entertainment, who drank his Majesty's
health b} the u..nie of Kihiargo, which v/as the nearest imitation they could produce of King
George.

About tills time died an old woman of some rank, who was related to Toniio, which gave
us an opportunity to see how they disposed of the body, and confirmed us in our opinion
that these pcojile, contrary to the present custom of all other nations now known, never bury
their dead. In the middle of a small square, neatly railed in with bamboo, the awning of a

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

|2£ 125

■ 40

■ 2.2

IL25 IIVI.4

■ 2.0

€

Photograpliic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WIST MAIN STtliT

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14510

(716) •72-4503

J;r

) I

COOKS FIRST VOYAOK ROUND THE WORLD.

JtNE, 170!>.

canoe was raised upon two posts, and under this tlic l)ody was deposited upon sndi a frame
as lias before been deseril)ed ; it was covered with fine cloth, and near it was |,'.4ct,'d bread-
fruit, fish, and otliir provisions: we suppose that the food was placed tliere fo the spirit of
the decease<l, and consequently, that tlu>e Indians had some confused notion of a separate
state ; but upon our applying for further information to Tubonrai Tamaide, he told us, that
the food was placed there as an offering to tlieir gods. They do not, however, sui>j>ose that
the gods cat, any more than the Jews suppose that Jehovah could dwell in a house : the
offering is made here upon the same principle as the teui]ile was built at Jerusalem, as an
expression of reverence and gratitude, and a solicitation of the more imnie<liate ]>resence of
the Deity. In the front of the area was a kind of stile, where the relations of the deceased
stood, to pay the tribute of their sorrow ; and under the awning were innumerable small
pieces of cloth, on which the tears and blood of the mourners had been shed ; for in their
paroxysms of grief it is a universal custom to wttund themselves with the shark's tooth.
AVithin a few yards two occasional houses were set up, in one of which some relations of the
deceased constantly resided, an<l in the other the chief mourner, who is always a man, and
who keeps there a very singular dress in which a ceremony is perfi.rmed that will bo
described in its turn. Near the place where the dead are thus set up to rot, the bones are
afterwards buried.

AVIiat can have introduced among these people the custom of exposing their dead above
ground till the flesh is consumed by putrefaction, and then burying the bones, it is, per-
haps, im]iossibl'; to guess; but it is remarkable, that .TUian and Apollonius Uhodius ini|)ute
a similar practice to the ancient inhabitants of Colchis, a country near Pontus, in Asia, now
called Mingrelia ; except that among them this manner of disposing of the dead did not
extend to both sexes : the women they buried ; but the men they wrapped in a hide, and
liung up in the air by a chain. This practice among the C< ''/nians is referred to a religious
cause. The princi|)al objects of their worship were the earth and the air ; and it is sup-
posed that, in consequence of some superstitions notion, they devoted their dead to both.
AVhether the natives of Otaheite had any notion of the same kind, we were never able
certainly to determine ; but we soon discovered, that the repositories of their dead were
also places of worship. U|)on this occasion it may be observed, that nothing can be more
absurd than the notion that the ha])])iness or misery of a future life depends, in any degree,
upon the dis]>ositiou of the liody when the state of probation is past ; yet that nothing ia
more general than a solicitmic about it. However cheap we may hold any funeral rites
which custom has not familiarised, or 8uperstiti<m rendered sacred, most men gravely
deliberate how to prevent their body from being broken by the mattock and devoured by
the worm, when it is no longer capable of sensation ; and purchase a place for it in holy
ground, when they believe tlie lot of its future existence to be irrevocably determined. So
strong is the association of pleasing or painful ideas with certain opinions and actions which
affect us while wc live, that we involuntarily act as if it was equally certain that they
would atVect ns in the same manner when we are dead, thongh this is an opinion that
nobody will maintain. Thus it happens, that the desire of preserving from reproach even
the name that wc leave behind us, or of procuring it honour, is one of the ntost powerful
principles of action, among the inhabitants of the most speculative and enlightened nations.
Posthumous reputation, upon every principle, must be acknowledged to have no influence
upon the dead ; yet the desire of obtaining and securing it, no force of reason, no habits of
thinking, can subdue, except in those whom habitual baseness and guilt have rendered
indifferent to honour ami shame while they lived. This, indeed, seems to be among tlio
happy im])crfections of our nature, upon which the general good of society in a certain
measure depends ; for as some crimes arc supposed to be prevented by hanging the body of
the criminal in chains after he is dead, so in consequence of the same associatiim of ideas,
much good is procured to society, and much evil prevented, by a desire of preventing
disgrace or procuring honour to a name>, when nothing but a name remains.

Perhaps no Ijctter use can be made of reading an account of manners altogether new, by
which the follies and absurdities of mankind are taken out of that particular connexion in
which, habit has reconciled them to ns, than to consider in how many instances they are

JlNH, 17<!1).

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

osscntially tlic same. When an Iionost devotee of tlic clinrcli of Rome reads, tliat there are
Indians on tlie banks of tlie (langes who believe that they uliall seeure the hapinness of a
future sttte by dyin<j with a cow's tail in their hands, he laughs at their folly and su])ersti-
tion ; and if tiiese Indians were to be tohl, that there are |)eo|ile upon the continent of
Kuroju', who imagine that they shall derive the same advantage froiii dying with the slipjxr
of St. Francis upon their foot, they would laugh in tlieir turn. iJut if, when the Indian
heard the account of the catholic, and the catiiolic that of the Indian, each was to reflect,
that there was no ditt'erenee between the absurdity of the slipj)er and of the tail, but tliat
the veil of prejudice and custom, which covered it in their own case, was withdrawn in the
other, they would tiirn their knowledge to a jirofitablo purpose.

Having obstTved that bread-fruit had for some days been brought in less quantities than
usual, we inquired the reason ; and were told, that there being a great show of fruit U|)on
the trees, they had been thinned all at once, in order to make a kind of sour paste, which
the natives call .V<//<«V, and which, in consequence of having iiiulergone a fermentation, will
keep a considerable time, and supply them with food when no ripe fruit is to be had.

On the Hull the ceremony was to be ]>erformed, in honour of the old woman whoso
sepulchral tabernacle has just been described, by the chief mourner ; and Mr. Hanks had so
great a curiosity to see all the mysteries of the solemnity, that he determined to take a ))art
in it, being told that he coiihl be present upon no other condition. In the evening, there-
fore, he repaired to the jilace where the body lay, and was received by the daughter of the
deceased, and several other persons, among whom wns a boy .ibont fourteen years old, who
were to assist in the ceremony. Tubourai Tamaide was to be the principal mourner ; and
bis dress, which was extremely fantastical, thotigli not unbecoming, is represented by a
figure in one of the cuts. Mr. Hanks was stripj)ed of his Kurop(\an clothes, and a small
l)iece of cloth being tied round his middle, his body was smeared with charcoal and water,
as low as the shoulders, till it was as black as that of a negro : the sanu' operation was
performed upon several others, among whom were some women, who were reduced to a
state as near to nakedness as himself; the boy was blacked all over, and then the procession
set forward. Tubourai Tamaide uttered something, which was supposed to be a prayer,
near the body ; and did the same when ho came up to bis own house : when this was done,
the procession was continued towards the fort, permissi(m having been obtained to approach
it upon this occasion. It is the custom of the Indians to fly from these processions with tho
utmost precijtitation, so that as soon as those who were about the fort saw it at a distance
they hid themselves in the woods. It proceeded from the fort along the shore, and put to
flight another body of Indians, consisting of more thnn a hundred, every one hiding himself
under the first shelter that he could find: it then crossed the river, and entered the woods,
passing several houses, all which were deserted, and not a single Indian could be svon
during the rest of the procession, which continued more than half an hour. The office that
Mr. Hanks performed, was called that of the S'liicen/i, of which there were two besides him-
self; and the natives having all disapjieared, they came to the chief mourner, and said,
Imatata, there are no people ; after which the company was dismissed to wash themselves
in the river, and put on their custojuary a])])arel.

On the 12tli, complaint being made to me, by some of the natives, that two of the seamen
had taken from them several bows and arrows, and some strings of plaited hair, I examined
the matter, and finding the charge well supported, I punished each of the criminals with
two dozen lashes. Their bows and ar-ows have not been mentioned before, nor wero
they often brought djwn to the fort. This day, however, Tubourai Tamaide brought down
his, in consequence of a challenge which he had received from Mr. Gore. The chief sup-
posed it was to try who could send the arrow farthest ; Mr. Gore, who best conld hit a
mark ; and as Mr. Gore did not value himself upon shooting to a great distance, nor the
chief upon hitting a mark, there was no trial of skill between them. Tubourai Tamaide,
however, to show us what lie could do, drew his bow, and sent an arrow, none of
which are feathered, two hundred and seventy-four yards, which is something more than a
seventh, and something less than a sixth part of a mile. Their manner of shooting is some-
what singular ; they kneel down, and the moment the arrow is discharged drop the bow.

! I

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

Jink, 17G0.

Mr. Dank^ in his morning walk tliis day, met a niiinhor of tlie natives, wliom, upon
inquiry, lie found to Ik> travelling musicians ; and having learnt where they were to be at
night, we all repaired to the i)lace. The hand consisted of two flutes and three drums, and
we found a great number of people assembled upon the occasion. The drummers accom-
panied the music with their voices, and, to our great surprise, we discovered that we were
generally the subject of the song. We diil not expect to have found among the uncivilized
inhabitants of this seijuestered spot a character, which has been the subject of such praise
and veneration when genius ami knowledge have been most cons]>icnous ; yet these were
the bards or minstrels of Otuheite. Tiieir song was unpremeditated, and accompanied with
music ; they were continually going about fronj place to place, and they were rewarded by
the master uf the house, and the audience, with such things as one wanted and the other
could spare.

On the 14th, we were brought into new difficulties and inconvenience by another robbery
at the fort. In the middle of the night, one of the natives contrived to steal an inm coal-
rake, that was made use of for the oven. It hapjiened to be set u]> against the inside of the
wall, so that tlie top of the handle was visible from without ; and we were informed that
the thief, who had been seen lurking there in the evening, came secretly about three o'clock
in the moniing, and, watching his opportunity when the sentinePs back was turned, very
dexterously laid hold of it with a long crooked stick, and drew it over the wall. I thought
it of some consequence, if jjossible, to put an end to these practices at once, by doing some-
thing that should make it the comnvm interest of the natives themselves to prevent them.
I had given strici orders that they should not be fired npon, even when detected in these
attempts, for which I had many reasons : the common sentinels vere by no means fit to bo
entnisted with a power of life and death, to be exerted whenever they sliould think fit ; and
I had already experienced that they were ready to take away the lives that were in their
power npon the slightest occasion ; neither, indeed, did I think that the thefts which theso
people committed against us were, in hem, crimes worthy of death : that thieves are hanged
in England I thought no reason why they sliould be shot in Otaheite ; becanse, with
respect to the natives, it would have been an execution by a i.iw e.r jwH facto. They had
no such law among themselves, and it diu not ap])ear to me that we had any right to make
such a law for them. That they should abstain from theft, or be punished with death, was
not one of the conditions under which they claimed the advantages of civil society, as it is
among us ; and as I was not willing to expose them to fire-arms, Ioa<led with shot, neither
could I perfectly approve uf firing only with powder. At first, indeed, the noise and the
smoke would alarm them, but when they found that no mischief followed, they would bo
led to despise the weapons themselves, aiitl proceed to insults, which would make it neces-
sary to put them to the test, and from which they would be deterred by the very sight of a
gun, if it was never used but with eflfict. At this time an accident furnished me with
what I thought a happy expedient. It happened that above twentv of their sailinr t \iioes
were just come in with a sup])ly of fish : upon these I immediately seized, and iiringing
them into the river behind the fort, gave public notice, that except the rake, and all the
rest of the things which from time to time had been stolen, were returned, the canoes should
be burnt. This menace I ventured to publish, though I had no design to put it into
execution, making no doubt but that it was well known in whose possession the stolen
goods were, and that as restitution was .thus made a common cause, they would all of them
in a short time be brought back. A list of the things was made out, consisting principally
of the rake ; the musket which had been taken from the marine wh.en the Indian was shot ;
the pistols which Mr. Hanks lost with his clothes at Atahourou ; a sword belonging to one
of the petty officers, and the water-cask. About noon, the rake was restored, and great
solicitation was made for the release of the canoes ; but I still insisted u]>on my original
condititm. The next day came, and nothing farther was restored, at which I was much
surprised, for the people were in the utmost distress for the fish, which in a short time
would be spoilt ; I was, therefore, reduced to a «lisagreeable situation, either of releasing the
canoes, contrary to what I had solemnly and i)ublicly declared, or to detain them, to the
great injury of those who were innocent, without answering any good purpose to ourselves:

Jl NE, 17(i!).

COOKS FlHSr VOYACJK KOI'ND TllK UOIM-D.

1, waa

it is
lu'ithcr
and the
iiiUl bo
iH'ces-
;lit of a
110 with

t M10C3

)rii!ging
all tho
ishimld
it into
e stolon
of them
lie i pally
18 shot ;
to ono
id great
iriginal
s much
trt tinio
:<ing tho
to tho
aelvea :

as a tcniporary cxjicdicnt, I luTinittcd tlicm to take tlio fish ; hut still lUtaiiu'd tho canoes.
'I'his very license, however, was iirotiiietive of new confusion and injury ; for, it not heiiii^
oasy at once to distin;;uisli to what jiartieiilar jxTsoiis the several lots of lisli heloiiired, the
caiioes were phiiul'red, under favour of this eiicunistanee, by those wlio had no ri;,'lit to any
part of their carjro. Most ))rc8i<ing instances were still made tl. 't the canoes ini<.'ht Im
restored ; and I having now the greatest reason to helleve, either that the thinirs for w hieh I
detained them were not in the island, or that those who siilVered hy their detention had not
snilicient inlhienee over the thieves to prevail nixm them to reliiKpiish their honty, deter-
mined at length to give them iij), not a little morliiied at tho had success of my ]>roject.

Another accident aUo nhont this time was, notwithstanding all our caution, very near
emhroiling us with the Imliaiis. I sent the boat on shore with an olVieer to get hallast for
the ship, and not immediately finding stones convenient for tho purpose, he hegau to ]>ull
<lowu sonic lia"t of an enclosure where they deposited the bones of tlieir dead. This the
Indians violently ()pp(^se(l, ami a messenger came down to tho tents to acquaint the otVicers
that they would not sulVer it. Mr. Ihinks immediately repaired to the place, and an
amicable end was soon put to tlu; dispute hy sending the boat's crew to tho river, where
stones onongh wore to be gathered witiiout a iiossihility of giving oH'encc. It is very
remarkable, that these Indians a]>pearod to be much more jealous of what was done to tlie
dead than the living. This was the <mly measure in wliich they ventured to oppose us, and
the only insult that was ottered to any individual among us was nixm a similar occasion.
]Mr. ^Monkhouse hap]u'ning one day to pull a flower from a tree which grew in one of their
sojnilchral enclosures, an Indian, whose jealousy Iiad probably been upon the watch, came
sufhlenly behind him, and struck him. Mr. Monkhouse laitl hold of him, but h(> was
instantly rescued by two more, who took hold of ^Ir. .Monkhouse's hair, and forced him to
(juit his hold of their companion, and then ran away without oilVring him any farthir
violence.

In the evening of tho iSlth, wliile the canoes wore still detained, wo received a visit from
< >berea, which surj)rised us not a little, as she brought with her none of the things that had
boon stolon, and knew that she was suspected of having some of them in her custody. Sim
said, indeed, that her favourite Obatloe, whom she had beaten and disinissetl, had taken them
away ; but she seemed conscious that she had no right to bo believed. She discovered tho
strongest signs of fear ; yet she surinouuted it w ith astonishing resolution, ami was very
pressing to sleep with her attendants in Mr. lianks's tent. In this, however, she was not
gratified ; the affair of the jacket was too recent, and the tent was besides filled with other
])Ooplo. Nobody else sccmeil willing to entertain her, and she, therefore, with great
aj)pearance of mortification and disappointment, spent the night in her canoe.

'J'ho next morning early she returned to the fort with her canoe, ami everything that it
contained, jtutting herself wholly into our power, with soinotliing like greatness of mind,
which excited our wonder and admiration. As tho most efVictual means to bring about
a reconciliation, she presented us with a hog, and several other things, among which was a
dog. We had lately learnt that these aniinais were esteemed by tho Indiaiis as more delicate
food than their pork ; and upon this occasion wo determined to try the ex)ieriment. Tho
dog, which was very fat, wc consigned over to Tu|)ia, who undertook to perform the double
ofhce of butcher and cook. He killed him by holding his hands close over his mouth and
noso, an o])eration which continued above a quarter of an hour. While this was doing, a
hole was made in the ground aliout a foot deep, in which a fire was kindled, and some small
stones placed in layers alternately with the wood to heat ; the dog was then singed, by
holiling him over the fire, and, by scrajting him with a shell, the hair take-. 'V as clean as if
ho had been scalde<l in hot water : he was then cut up with the same instrument, and bis
entrails being taken out, were sent to the sea, wiioro, being carefully washed, they were put
into cocoa-nut shells, with what blood had come from tho body. When the hole was
sufficiently heated, the fire was taken out, and some of the stones, which were not so hot as
to discolour anything that they touched, being jdaced at the bottom, were covered with greea
leaves. The dog, with tho entrails, was then placed upon the leaves, and other leaves being
laid upon them, the whole was covered with tlic rest of the hot stones, and tho mouth of tho

t OOKS FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

JlNE, 17G9.

i':

! ^

Iiolc close Rtoppcd witli nioiild. In somcwlint loss tlian four lioiirs it was ngnin opened, and
tlic dog taVcn ont excclli-ntly baked ; and wc all agreed tliat lio made a very good disli.
The dogs wliicli are liere bred to be eaten taste no animal food, but are kept wholly uj»on
bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, and other vegetables of the like kind : all tlic flesh and fibli
eaten by the inhabitants is dressed in the same way.

On the 2l8t wc were visited at the fort by a chief, called Oamo, whom we had never seen
before, and who was treated by the natives with uncommon renpett ; he brought with him
a boy about seven years old, and a young woman about sixteen : the boy was carried upon
a man's back, which we considered as a piece of state, for ho was as well able to walk as any
present. As soon as they were in sight, Oberea, and several other natives who were in the
fort, went out to meet them, having Krst uncovered their heads and bodies as low as the
waist : os they came on, the same ceremony was performed by all the natives who were
without the fort. Uncovering the body, therefore, is in this country probably a mark of
res]>ect ; and as all parts are here exposed with equal indiifercnce, the ceremony of uncovering
it from the waist downwards, which was performed by Oorattooa, might be nothing more
than a ditt'crent mode of compliment, adapted to persons of a different rank. The cltief
can)c into the tent, but no entreaty could prevail upon the young woman to follow him,
though she seemed to refuse contrary to her inclination. The natives without were, indeed,
all very solicitous to prevent her, sometimes, when her resolution seemed to fail, almost using
force : the boy also they restrained in the same manner ; but Dr. Solandcr happening to
meet him at the gate, took him by the hand, and led him in before the people were nwarc
of it. As soon, however, as those that were within saw him, they took caro to have him
sent out.

These circumstances having strongly excited our curiosity, we inquired who they were,
and were informed that Oamo was the husband of Oberea, though they had been a long time
separated by mutual consent ; and that the young woman and the boy were their children.
Wc learnt also that the boy, whose name was Tehridiri, was her heir-apparent to the
sovereignty of the island, and that his sister was intended for his wife, the marriage being
deferred only till he should arrive at a proper age. The sovereign at this time was a son of
AViiAPPAi, whose name was OiTTor, and who, as before has been observed, was a minor.
Whappai, f )amo, and Tootabah, were brothers : "Whappai was the eldest, and Oamo the
second ; so that, Whajipai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, the son of his next brother
Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. It will, perhaps, seem strange that a boy should bo
sovereign during the life of his father ; but, according to the custom of the country, a child
succeeds to a father's title and authority as soon as it is born : a regent is then elected, cind
the father oi" the new sovereign is generally continued in his authority, under that title, till his
child is of age ; but .^t this time the choice had fiillon upon Tootahah, the uncle, in conse-
qjienec of his having distinguished himself in a war. Oamo asked many questions concerning
lOnglaixl an<l its inhabitauts, by which he appeared to have great shrewdness and
understanding.

t i:

CHAPTKR XV. — AN ACCOUNT OP THE CinCVMNAVIOATION 01' THE IS1.AND, AND VARIOUS
INCIDKNTS THAT IIAPl'K.NKI) OrRINt! THE EXPEDHION, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF A
BURVINO-PLAC1-: AM) PLACE (IF WOUSIIIP, CALLED A .MORAL

On Monday the 2(ith, about three o'clock in the morning, I set out in the pinnace,
accompanied by Mr, Hanks, to make the circuit of the island, witli a view to sketch out the
coast and harbours. We took our route to the eastward, and about eight in the forenoon
wc went on shore, in a district called Oaiiovni-e, which is governed by Aiiio, a young chief
whom we had often seen at the tents, and who favoured us with his company to breakfast.
Here also we found two other natives of our old .icquaintance, Titcboalo and IIoona, who
carried us to tiieir houses, near which wc saw the body of the old woman, at whose funeral

Jink, 17<!0.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE M'ORLD.

ivahious
In of a

Ipinnnco,

out the

forenoon

ing chief

Veakfnst.

«JA, who

funeral

rites Mr. Ranks had asjistod, and which had hocn removed hither from the spot where it was
tirst deposited, tliis phicc having descended from her hy inheritance to Iloona ; and it being
necessary on that account tliat it shouhl lie here. We the:i proceeded on foot, the boat
attending within call, to the harbour in which M. IJougainville lay, called Oiiidka, where
the natives showed us the ground upon which his i)eople pitched their tent, and the brook
at which they watered, though no trace of them remained, exc(i)t the holes where the poles
of the tent had been fixed, and a small piece of potsherd, which Mr. Hanks fouiul in looking
narrowly about the spot. We met, however, with < )iii:tte, a chief who was their princijiul
friend, and whose brother OrTouuoii went away with them.

This harbour lies on the west side of a great bay, under shelter of n small island called
BooiHou, near which is another called TAAwmnii ; the breach in the reefs is hero very
large, but the shelter for the ships is not the best. 8oon after wo had examined this ])Iace,
wo took boat, and asked Tituboalo to go with us to the other side of the bay ; but he refused,
and advised us not to go ; for he said the country there was inhabited by ]ieople who w eru
not subject to Tootahah, and who would kill both hin> and us. Upon receiving this intelli-
gence, wc did not, as may be imagined, relinquish our enterprise, but we imme<li;.tely loaded
our i)iece8 with ball : this was so well understoi l by Tituboalo as a precaution which
rendered us formidable, that ho now consented to be of our party.

Having rowed till it was dark, we reached a low neck of land, or isthmus at the bottom
of the bay, that divides the island into two peninsulas, each of which is a district or govern-
ment wholly independent of the other. From Port-Iloyal, where the ship was at anchor,
the coast trends E. by S. and E.S.E. ten miles, then 8. by E. and S. eleven miles to the
isthmus. In the first direction the shore is in general open to the sea; but in the last it is
covered by reefs of rocks, which form several good harbours, w ith safe anchorage, in sixteen,
eighteen, twenty, and twenty-four fathom of water, with other conveniences. As wc hatl
not yet got into our enemy's country, we determined to sleep on shore. Wc landed, and
though wc found but few houses, we saw several double canoes, whoso owners were well
known to us, and who provided ns with supper and lodging ; of which !RIr. Banks was
indebted for his share to Ooratooa, the lady who had paid him her compliments in so .singular
a manner at the fort.

In the morning we looked about the country, and found it to be a marshy flat, about two
miles over, across which the natives haul their canoes to the corresponding bay on the other
side. We then prepared to continue our route for what Tituboalo called the other kingdom ;
he said that the name of it was TiAUUAnor, or Otaiikitk Ete ; and that of the chief who
governed it AVaiieatua. Upon this occasion, also, we learnt that the name of the peninsula
where we had taken our station was Oi'ornEoNC, or Otaueite Nue. Our new .issociato
seemed to bo now in better spirits than he had been the day before : the people in Tiarrabou
would not kill us, he said ; but he assured ns that wc should be able to procure no victuals
among them ; and indeed we had seen no bread-fruit since we set out.

After rowing a few miles, we landed in a district, which was the dominion of a chief
called Mauaitata, the bnrying-place of men, whose father's name was Paiiaikedo, tlio
stealer of boats. Though these names seemed to fiivour the account that had been given by
Tituboalo, we soon found that it was not true. Doth the father and the son received us
with the greatest civility, gave us provisions, and, after some delay, sold us a very largo
hog for a hatchet. A crowd soon gathered round us, but we saw only two people that we
knew; neither did we observe a single bead or ornament among them that liad come from
our ship, though we saw several things which had been brought from Europe. In one of
the houses lay two twelve-pound shot, one of which was marked with the broad arrow
of England, though the people said they had them from the ships that lay in Bougainville's
hiirbour.

Wc proceeded on foot till we came to the district which was immediately under the
government of the principal chief, or king of the peninsula, Waheatna. Waheatua had
a son, but whether, according to the custom of Oponreonu, he administered the government
as regent, or in his own right, is uncertain. This district consists of a large and fertile jilain,
watered by a river so wide, that wo were obliged to ferry over it in a canoe : our Indian

)

¥.

i i

{ i

;li ';!

i I

§■]

1 ':

COOKS FIRST VOYAOE UOUND THE AVORLD.

.IjNK, 1709.

train, liowevcr, clidso to swim, and took to tlic water with tlie same facility as a pat-k of
lioiinds. Ill this jilace we saw no house tliat a])peareil to he inhabited, hut the ruins of
many that liad heeu very large. We proceeded ah)ng ihe shore, which forms a hay, called
O.MTii'r.iiA, and at last we found the chief sitting near some pretty canoe awnings, under which,
we sujij)osed, lie and his attendants slept. He was a thin old man, with a very white head and
heard, and had with him a comely woman, about five-and-twenty ycara old, whose name was
To:i>ii)i)E. "NVe had often heard the name of this woman, .ind, from report and observation, wo
had reason to think that she was the Ohkrka of this peninsula. From this i)lace, between
w hich and the isthmus there are other harbours, formed by the reefs that lie along the shore,
where shipping may lie in perfect security, and from whence tlic land trends S. S. E. and
S. to the S. E. part of the iisland, we were accompanied by Teahee, the son of Waheatua,
of whom we had purchased a hog, and the country we passed through appeared to be more
cultivated than any we had seen in other parts of the island : the brooks were everywhere
banked into narrow channels with stone, and the shore had also a facing of stone, where it
was washed by the sea. The houses were neither large nor numerous, but the canoes that
were hauled up along the shore were almost innumerable, and superior to any that we had
seen before both in size and make; they were longer, the sterns were higher, and tho

DOt ni.E CANiiE «nil CANOI'V.

awnings were supported by pillars. At almost every point there \.as a sepulchral building,
and there were many of them also inland. They were of the same figure as those in
Opoureonu, but thov were cleaner and better kept, and decorated with many carved boards,
wiiieh were set upright, and on the top of which were various figures of birds and men.
On one in particular, there was the representation of a cock, which was painted red and
yellow, to imitate the feathers of that animal, and rude images of men were, in somo of
them, placed one upon tho head of another. But in this part of the country, however
fertile and cultivated, we did not sec a single hread-fruit : the trees were entirely bare ; and
the inhabitants seemed to subsist principally upon nuts, which are not unlike a chesnut, and
which they call A/wc.

When we had walked till wc were weary, we called up the boat, but both our Indians,
Tituboalo and Tuahow, were missing : they had, it seems, staj-ed behind at Waheatua's,
expecting us to return thither, in consequence of a jiromise which had been extorted from
us, and which we had it not in our power to fulfil. Tearee, however, and another, embarked
with us, and wc proceeded till wo came abreast of a small island called Otooaueite ; it
being then dark, we determined to land, and our Indians conducted us to a place where they
said we might sleep : it was a deserted house, and near it was a little cove, in which the
boat might lie with great safety and convenience. We were, however, in want of provisions,
having been very sparingly supplied since we set out ; and Mr. Banks immediately went
into the woods to see whether any could ho procured. As it was dark, ho met with no
people, and could find hut one house that was inhabited : a bread-fruit and a half, a few
ahees, and some fire, wire all that it afforded ; upon which, with a duck or two, and a few

Jink, 17(i5).

COOKS FIRST VOYAC.K KOI'M) TIIK WOULD.

curlews, wo niailo our siip|u'r — wliicli, if jiot scanty, was ilisanrcoablc, by tlio want of i>roa'I,
witli wliitli wc liad ncpli-ttcd to furnish oiirsclvc?', as wt' (Icjuntli'd uixin nut'tinir willi Imail-
fniit — and took up our lodging undiT tlio awning of a canoo belonging to Tcareo, wMcIi
followed ns.

Tlie next morninpr, after liaving sucnt sonic time in another fniitless atteinjit to procure a
pnjtply of provisions, wo proceeded round the south-east i)oiiit, jiart of which is not eovereil
by any reef, but lies o|)en to tlie sea; and lure tho hill rises directly from tlie slioro. At
tlio southernmost jiart of the island, tlic shore is again covered by a reef, which forms a good
liarbour; and the land about it is very fertile. We made this route partly on foot, ami
partly in thu boat : when wc had walked about three miles, wo arrived at a place where we saw
several largo canoes, and a numljor of pcoide with them, whom wo were agreeably surprised
to find were of our intimate ac(|uiiintance. Here, with much dilhculty, we i)rocmcd some
cocoa-nuts, and then embarked, taking with us Tuahow, one of the Indians who had waited
for ns at AVaheatua's, and had returned the night before, long after it was dark.

When we canio abreast of the south-east en<l of the island, we went ashore, by tho
advice of our Indian guide, who told us that the country was rich and good. The chief,
whoso name was JIatuiauo, soon camo down to us, but seemed to be a total stranger both
to us and to our trade : bis subjects, however, brought us plenty of cocoa-nuts, and about
twenty bread-fruit. The bread-fruit wc bought at a very dear rate, but his excellency
sold us a ])ig for a glass-bottle, which he preferred to everything else that we could give him.
Wo fouml in his possession a goose and a turkey-cock, which, wo wore informed, had been
left upon the island by the Dolphin : they were both enormously fat, and so tame that they
followed the Indians, who were fond of theuj. to excess, wherever they went. In a long
house in this neighbourhood, wo saw what was altogether now to us. At one end of it,
fasten«!d to a semicircular board, hung fifteen human jaw-bones : they appeared to bo fresh ;
and there was not one of them that wanted a single tooth. A sight so extraordinary
strongly excited our curiosity, and wc made many inquiries about it ; but at this time could
get no information, for the people either could not, or would not, understand us.

When wc left this i)laco, the chief, jMathiabo, desired leave to acc<mipany us, which was
readily graniod. He continued with us the remainder of the day, and ]noved very useful,
by piloting us over the shoals. In tho evening, wc opened the bay on the north-west side
of the island, wliich answered to that on the south-cast, so as at tho isthnuis, or carryiiig-
placc, almost to intersect the island, as I have observed before ; and when we had coasted
about two-thirds of it, wo determined to go on shore for tho night. Wc saw a largo house
at some distance, which Mathiabo informed us belonged to one of his ftiends ; and soon after
several canoes came off to meet us, having on board some very handsome women, who, by
their behaviour, seemed to have been sent to entice us on shore. As wc had before resolved
to tiike up our residence hero for tho night, little invitation was necessary. We fouml that
the house belonged to the chief of tho district, whose name was Wiviiuou : ho received us in
a very friendly manner, and ordered his people to assist us in dressing our provision, of
which we had now got a tolerable stock. When our supper was ready, we were conducted
into that part of the house where Wiverou was sitting, in order to eat it : IVIathiabo supped
with U9 ; and Wiverou calling for his supper at the time, we ate our meal very sociably,
and with great good-humonr. When it was over, wc began to inquire where we wore to
sleep, and a part of the house was shown us, of which wc wore told wo might take possession
for that purpose. We then sent for our cloaks, and Mr. Banks began to undress, as his
custom was, and, with a precaution which he had been taught by tho loss of tho jackets at
Atahourou, sent his clothes aboard the boat, proposing to cover himself with a piece of
Indian cloth. When Mathiabo perceived what was doing, he also pretended to want a
cloak ; and, as he had behaved very well, and done us some service, a cloak was ordered
for him. We lay down, and observed that Alathiabo was not with us ; but we supposed
that he was gone to bathe, as the Indians always do before they sleep. Wc had not waited
long, however, when an Indian, who was a stranger to ns, came and told Mr, Banks, that
tlic cloak and Alathiabo had disappeareil together. This man had so far gained our con-
fidence, that wc did not at first believe the report ; but it being soon after confirmed by

i I

ll '

\ '

'1' ',

COOKS KIHST V()VA(iE HOUND THE MOULD.

J I SK, 1700.

Tiiuliow, our own Iiuliiin, wo knew no tinio was to \w lost. As it wn« impossible for ns to
juirsiie tlu! tliiif witli any Imi|ic of sikti'«!<, witliout the nssistanco of tlie ]ieo|ilo about us,
Mr. Hanks started up, and telling our case, re(|uired tlicm to recover tlie cloak ; and to
enforce tins reipiisition, showed one of his ])ocket-pistMls, which he always kept nbout him.
I'pon the si^'ht of the ])istol, the whole ronipany took the alarm, and, instead of assisting
to catch the thief, or recover what had been stolen, began with great precipif-ti-m to leave
the jdace: one of them, however, was seized ; upon which he innnediately offered to direct
the chase : 1 set out, therefore, with Mr. Itanks ; and though we ran all the way, the
alarm had got before us ; for in about ten minutes wu nut a man bringing back the cloak,
which the thief had relinquished in great terror ; and aa w-o did not tiien think fit to
continue the pursuit, he made his escape. When wc returned, wo found the house, in which
there had been between two and three himdred people, entirely <lesert(d. It being, however,
soon known that we had no resentment against any body but Mathiabo, the chief, Wivcron,
our host, with his wife, and many others, returned, and took up their lodgings with us for
the night. In this place, however, wc were destined to more confusion and trouble ; for
about five oclock in the morning our sentry alarmed ns, with an account that the boat waa
missing : be had seen her, he said, about half an hour before, at her grap|)ling, which was
not above fifty yards from the shore ; but, upon hearing the sound of oars, ho had looked
out again, and couM see nothing of her. At this account wc started up greatly alarmed,
and ran to the water-side : the morning was clear and starlight, so that wc could sec to n
considerable distance, but there was no appearance of the boat. Our situation was now
such as might justify the most terrifying apprehensions : as it was n dead calm, and wo
could not therefore suppos-e her to ha\e broken from her grappling, we had great reason to
fear that the Indians had attacked her, and finding the people asleep, had succeeded in their
enterprise : we were but four, with only one musket and two pocket-pistols, without a spare
ball or charge of powder for either. In this state of anxiety and distress wo remained a
considerable time, expecting the Indians every moment to improve their advantage, when,
to onr uns|)eakable satisfaction, we saw the boat return, which had been driven from her
grap])ling by the tide ; a circumstance to which, in our confusion and surprise, wc did
••'>♦ -dvert.

soon as the boat returned, wc got our breakfast, and were impatient to leave the jdaco
lomc other vexatious accident should befall ns. It is situated on the north side of
Tiarrabou, tho south east peninsula, or division, of the island, and at the distance of about
five miles south-east from the isthmus, having a large and commodious harbour, inferior to
n(»ne in the island ; about which the land is very rich in prodnce. Notwithstanding wc had
had little communication with this division, the inhabitants cvcrywhero received us in a
friendly manner. "Wo found the whole of it fertile and populous, and, to all appearance, in
a more flourishing state than Opourconu, though it is not above one-fourth part as large.

The next district in which wo landed was the last in Tiarrabou, and governed by a chief,
whoso name we understood to be O.moe. Omoe was building a house, and being therefore
very desirous of procuring a hatchet, he would have been glad to have purchased one with
anything that ho had in his jjossession ; it happened, however, rather unfortunately for him
and us, that we had not one hatchet left in the boat. We offered to trade with nails, but ho
would not part with anything in exchange for them ; wo therefore reimbarkod, and put off
our boat, but the chief being unwilling to relinquish all hope of obtaining something from U3
that would be of use to him, embarked in a canoe, with bis wife Whannoouda, and followed
us. After some time, we took them into the boat ; and when we had rowed about a league,
they desired wc would put ashore. We immediately complied with his request, and found
some of his people, who had brought down a very largo hog. Wo were as imwiliing to loso
the bog as the chief was to part with us, and it was indeed worth the best axe we had in the
ship; wc therefore hit upf)u an expedient, and told him, that if ho would bring his hog to
the fort at Matavai, the Indian name for Port Itoyal bay, he should have a large axe, and a
nail into the bargain, for his trouble. To this proposal, after having consulted with his wife,
he agreed, and gave us a large piece of his country cloth as a pledge that he would perform
Lis agreement, which, however, he never did.

Junk, 17<m.

COOKS FIRST VOYAC.K ROUND TIIK WORLD.

At tliis iiliico wo saw a very lingular curiosity : it was the figure (»f a man, con-truct ] of
basket-work, rii«ltly maile, but not ill dcsij^ned. It was Monirtliing more than seven feit
high, and rather too bulky in projiortiiin to its height. The wieker skeleton was eoinpletely
covered with feathers, which were white wliiro tlie skin was to appear, and Mack in tlio
]>art8 which it is their custom to paint or stain, and upon tlie head, where there was to ho
a representation of hair. I'pon the Iieatl also wen? four ])rotuherances, three in front and ono
behind, which we sliould have ealle<l horns, but «vhich the Indians dignified with the name
of Tate Kte, little men. The image was called Manioe, and was said to be the only one of
the kind in Otahcito. They attempted to give us an explanation of its use and ilesign, but
we had not then acquired enough of their language to understand them. We learnt, how-
ever, afterwards, that it was a representation of Mauwe, one of their Katuas, or gods of tho
second class.

After having settled our aflTairs with Omoc, wo proceeded on our return, and soon reached
Opourconu, the north-west peninsula. After rowing a few nules, we went on shore again ;
but tho only thing wo saw worth notice was a repository for tho dead, uncommonly dccu-
rated. The pavement was extremely neat, and upon it was raised a pyramid, about five fcit
liigh, which was entirely covered with tho fruits of two plants peculiar to the country. Near
the pyramid was a small image of stone, of very rudo workmanship, and tho fust iubtanco
of carving in stono that wc bad seen among these people. They appeared to set a high value
i:pon it, for it was covered from tho weather by a shed that had been erected on purpose.

We i)roceeded in the boat, and passed through the only harbour, on the south sitle of
Opourconu, thivt is fit for 8liii)i)ing. It is situated about five miles to the westward of tho
isthmus, between two small islands that lie near the shore, and about a mile distant from
each other, and affords good anchorage in eleven and twelve fathom water. We were now
not far from tho district called Papahua, which belonged to our friends Oamo ami Oberca,
where we proposed to sleep. Wc went on shore about an hour before niglit, and found that
they wero both absent, having left their habitations to pay us a visit at Matavai : (his,
however, did not alter our purpose ; wc took np our quarters at the house of Oberea, which,
though small, was very neat, and at this time had no inhabitant but her father, who received
us with looks that bid us welcome. Having taken possession, wo were willing to improvu
tho littlo daylight that was left us, and therefore walked out to a point, ni)on which we had
seen, at a distance, trees that are hero called f'toa, which generally distinguish the i)lacc8
where these people bury the bones of their dead. Their name for such burying-grounds,
which arc also places of worship, is Moral Wo were soon struck with the sight of an
enormous pile, which wo were told was tho morai of Oamo and Oberea, and the princijial

I hog to

and a

|s wife,

Perform

MURAI OF UAMO AND UllbKLA.

piece of Indian architecture in the island. It was a i>ilc of stone-work, raised pyraniidically
upon an oblong base, or square, two hundred and sixty-seven feet long, and eighty-seven
wide. It was built like the small pyramidal mounts upon which wc sometimes fix the pillar
of a sun-dial, where each side is a flight of steps ; the steps, however, at the sides, wero
broader than those iit the ends, so that it terminated not in a squiirc of the same figure with
the base, but in a ridge, like the roof of a house. There were eleven of these stejjs, each of

COOK'S FiiisT \ovA(;i-: uor'xn tiiF': \vr)RM).

Jink, 1701).

I' I

wliic'li wi\< fiMir f( ft lii;^li. ^-o tli.it tlw lui^'lit of the j>ilf was f(irty-fi)iir fi-vt : racli sti-p wiis

Innm (I of one ('(iiiisi' of wliitr 1 al .«t<iiic, wliirli was neatly st|iiari'il ami polisluil ; tin; rest

of tlic inasn, f(ir tlurt' was no liollow witliin, fonxistod of rouml ju'lihli's, wliiili, fronj tlio
ri'<;ularity of tliiir fi;,Miro, Sfonirtl to Iiavr lucn wroiij.'lit. Some of the coral utonos wi-ro very
lai'<;(< ; we nica^tiri'il (•no of tlicni, and fmiiul it tlino feet and a linlf liy two fuct and a lialf.
Tlie foundation was of rock stones, wliiili wen- also s(|iiarLMl ; and one of tiieni nu'asiuvd four
foot sfvcn inclic's liy two foot four. Siuli a structure, raided without tlie assistance of iron
tools to shape tlio stoms, or mortar to join them, struck ns witli astonishment : it seemed
to lie as compact and firm as it coidd liave hetn miule hy any workman in Kuropp, except
tiiat the steps, which ran<,'e ahni;; its r;reatest lenutli, are not perfectly 8trai<,'ht, but sink in
a kind of hoUow in tlie miiKUe, so that the whole surface, from end to end, is not a right line,
hut a curve. Tho quarry stones, as we saw no quarry in the neij^hhourhood, must have
lieen brought from a considerahle ilistance ; ami there is no method of conveyance here hut
l»y hand : the coral must also have heen fished from under the water, where, thoutfh it may
be found in jilenty, it lies at a considerable dej)!!), never less than three feet. IJoth tlic rock
stone and the coral could be squared only by tools ma<le of the same substance, which must
liave heen a work of incrediL;o labour; but the polishinf( was niorc easily elVected by means
of the shar]) coral sainl, which is fountl everywhere n])on the sea-shore in great abundance.
In the middle of tlie top stood the image of a bird, carved in wood ; and near it lay the
broken one of a fish, carved in stone. The whole of this j^yramid made part of one side of
a s])acious area or s(|uare, nearly of ecpial sides, being three hundred and si.xty feet by three
liuudred and fifty-four, which was vailed in with stone, and paved with flat stones in its
whole extent ; tiiongh there were grv>wing in it, notwithstanding the pavement, several (»f
the trees which they call /.Vw/, and plantains. About an hundred yards to the west of this
building was another paved area or court, in which were several small stagi.-s raised on
wooden pillars, about seven feet high, which arc called by the Indians Ktratlds, and seem to
be a kind of altars, as upon these are placed provisions of all kinds as ofl'erings to their gods.
A\'e have since seen w lude hogs placed njion them ; and we found here the skulls of above
fifty, besides the skulls of a great number of dogs.

The principal object of ambition among these people is to have a magnificent morai, and
this was a striking memorial of the rank and power of Oberea. It has been remarked that
■we did not find her invested with tho same authority that she exercised when the Dolphin
•was at this place, and we now learnt the reason of it. Our way from her house to the morai
lay along the sea-side, and we observed everywhere under our feet a great number of human
bones, cliieflyrihs and vertebrte. Upon inquiring into the cause of so singular an appearance,
wc were told that in the then last month of Oinini/iew, which answered to our December
I7WJ, about four or five months before our arrival, the people of Tiarrabou, the S. E. penin-
sula which we had just visited, made a descent at this jjlacc, and killed a great number of
jieople, whose hones were those that we saw npon the shore : that, upon this occasion, Oberea
and ( )amo, who then administered the government for his son, had fled to the mountains ;
and that the conquerors burnt all the houses, which were very large, and carried away tho
hogs, and wliat other animals they found. AVe learnt also that the turkey and goose, which
we had seen when we were with 3Iathiabo. the stealer of cloaks, were among the spoils :
this accounted for their being found among people with whom the Dolphin had little or no
communication ; and upon mentioning the jaw-bones, which wo liad seen hanging from a
board in a long house, we were told that they also had been carried away as trophies, tho
])eoplc here carrying away the jaw-bones of their enemies as tho Indians of North America
do the scalps.

After having thus gratified our curiosity we returned to our quarters, where we passed tho
night in perfect security and quiet. By tho next evening we arrived at Atahourou, tho
residence of our friend Tootahah, where, tho last time we passed tho night under his pro-
tection, we had heen obliged to leave the best part of our clothes behind us. This adventure,
however, seemed now to bo forgotten on both sides. Our friends received us with great
pleasure, and gave us a good supper and a good lodging, where wo suffered neither loss nor
disturbance.

I^^

.Ji IV, I7<>!>.

(OOKS MUSI' \oV.\<;K IKUJND TIIK UtHlM».

Tlif next il;iy, SiitiKday ■h\W tl.i- l«t, Wf ;.'(>t li.ick to t)iir fort at Mataviii, liaviii;» foiin.l
till' rin nit of llif islaiul, inclisiiin^ Iniili |iiiiiii-<ii1as, to lit- about tliirty liai;m-<. I'lioii our
coinplainini,' of tlio want of hrcail-fiiiit, w.- wrn- tolil tliat tin- prodiut' of tin- la-t soa^oii was
nearly ixliaiistcd. ami tliat what was srcn !<|irin»tinir iipoii tlio trees would :iot Ik* fit t<»
usu ill \v»H than thr(>i> months : thi" acionnttd for onr having' ht'fii alilo to procure mo littio
of it in onr -oute. While the hreail-fruit is riiteninj,' upon tlie llatM, the inhahitants aro
supplied in some ineasnre from the trees whieii tliey have planted upon the hills to preaervo
a Hucerssion ; hut the ipiantity is nut snllieient to prevent scarcity : tliey 'i .e, therefore, upon
the four )i.i>te, wliicli they call Mt(/ii>\, upon w ihl )ilantains and ahet- nuts, whieli at this timu
are in perfection. IIuw it happened that tiu* Dolphin, which was lieru at this Ncasoii, found
sucli plenty of broad-fruit upon the trees I cannot tell, cxuepi i'.io season in which they ripen
Vfries.

At our return our Iiulian friends crowded about us, and none of them caiuc empty-handed.
Tliou^di 1 had determined to restore tlie canoes wliich had been detained to tliiir owners, it
bad not yet been done ; but I now released them as they were a])p!ied ftir. I'pon thia
occasion I could not but remark with coueern that tin se people were cajialde of practisiii^r
petty frauds against each other, with a deliberate dishonesty, wliidi gave ine a luneh worse
()])inion of them than I liad ever entertained from the robberies they committed, under the
strong tein]itati(m to which a sudden opportunity of enriehing themselves with the inesti-
mable metal and mamifactuies ot Jiurope exjMtseil them. Among others who applied to ine
for the release of a canoe, was one I'oi.vTTow, a man of some consequence, well known to us
all. I consented, .svipposing the V'ss^'l to be his own, orth.at he ap])Iied on the behalf of a
friend : he went immediately to the beach, and took j)ossession of one of the boats, which,
with the assistaneo of his people, he began to carry off. I'pon this, however, it was eagerly
claimed by the right owners, who, si pjjorted by the otuer Indians, clamorously reproached
bini for invading tlieir property, and prepared to take the canoe from him by force. Vpou
this he desired to be beard, and told them that the canoe did, indeeil, once beloug to tboso
who claimetl it ; but that I, having seized it as a forfeit, bad sold it to him for a pig. This
silenced the clamour : the owners, knowing that from my power there was no appeal,
acquiesced ; an<l Potattow woiihl have carrietl off iiis prize, if the dispute had not fortunately
been overheard by some of our peojile, who reported it tc me. I gave orders immediately
that the Indians should be nmleceived ; ni)on which the right owners took jiossession of
their canoe, and Potattow was so conscious of his guilt, that neither he nor hia wife, who was
privy to his knavery, could look us in the face for some time afterwards.

fllAPTKll XVI. — AN KXTKHITION OP MR. BANKS TO TnArE TIIK Kivm. — MARKS OF smxru-
RAXEOUS I'lRi;. — l'Ri:rARAT10X8 FOR LKAVING TIIK ISLAND. AN ACCOINT OF TIPIA.

On the .3rd JSIr. Banks set out early in the morning wii'i some Indian guides, to trace our
river up the valley from which it issues, and examine how far its banks were inhabited. For
about six miles they met witli houses, not far distant from each other, on each side of tho
river, and the valley was everywhere about four hundred yards wide from the foot of the hill
on one side to the foot of that on the other ; but they were now shown a house which they
were told was the last that tlicy would see. When they came up to it, the master of it
offered them refreshments of cocoa-nuts and other fruits, of which they accepted. After a
short stay, they walked forward for a considerable time : in bad way it is not easy to
compute distances ; but they imagined that they had walked about six miles farther,
following the course of the river, when they frequently passed nnder vaults, formed by
fragments of the rock, in which they were told people who were benighted frequently passed
the night. Soon after they found the river banked by steep rocks, from which a cascade,
falling with great violence, formed a pool, so steep, that the Indians said they conld not pass
it. They seemed, indeed, not much to be acquainted with the valley beyond this place.

I .

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1769.

their business lying chiefly upon the cloclivity of the rocks on each side, and the plains which
cxtcudud on their summits, wliorc thoy found plenty of wild plantain, which they called
roe. The way up these rocks from the banks of the river was in every respect dreadful :
the sides were nearly perjiendiculiir, and in some places one hundred feet high : they were
also renderei! exceedingly slippery by the water of innumerable springs which issued from
the fissures on the surface ; yet up these precipices a way was to be traced by a succession
of long j)ieces of the bark of the Hibiscus tiliaceug, which served as a rope for the climber to
take hold of, and assisted him in scrambling from one ledge to another, though upon theso
ledges there was footing only for an Indian or a goat. One of these ropes was nearly thirty
feet in length, and their guides offered to assist them in mounting this pass, but reconnnended
another at a little distance lower down, as less difficult and dangerous. They took a view
of this " better way," but found it so bad that they did not cliooso to attempt it, as there
was nothing at the top to reward their toil and hazard, but a grove of the wild plantain or
vae tree, which they had often seen before.

1 1 1

MOUNTAIN SCENERY OF OTAIIEITE.

!!■

•4!

During this excursion, Mr. Banks had an excellent opportunity to examine the rocks,
which were almost everywhere naked, for minerals ; but he found not the least appearance
of any. The stones everywhere, like those of Madeira, showed manifest tokens of having
been burnt ; nor is there a single specimen of any stone, among all those that were collected
in the island, upon which there are not manifest and indubitable marks of fire ; except,
perhaps, some small pieces of the hatchet-stone, and even of tiiat, other fragments were
collected which were burnt almost to a pumice. Traces of fire were also manifest in the
very clay upon the hills ; and it may therefore, not unreasonably be supposed that this and
the neighbouring islands are cither shattered remains of a continent which some have
supposed to be necessary in this part of the globe, to preserve an equilibrium of its parts,
which were left behind when the /est sunk by the mining of a subterraneous fire, so as to
give a passage to the sea over it ; or were torn from rocks, which, from the creation of the
world, had been the bed of the sea, and thrown up in heaps to a height which the waters
never reach. One or other of these suppositions will perhaps bo thought the more probable,
as the water docs not gradually grow shallow as the shore is approachc<l, and the islands are
almost everywhere surrounded by reefs, which appear to be rude and broken, as some

Jri.v, 1709.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

violent concussion would naturally leave the solid substance of the cartli. It may also bo
remarked upon this occasion, that the most probable cause of earth»juakes seems to be the
su<l<len rushing in of water upon some vast mass of subterraneous fire, by the instantaneous
rarefiiction of which into vapour the mine is sprung, and various substances in all stages of
vitrification, witii shells, and other marine productions that are now found fossil, and tlio
strata that covered the furnace, are thrown up, while those parts of the land which w€'ro
supported upon the broken shell give way, and sink into the gidf. With this theory the
phenomena of all earthqu.akes seem to agree : pocds of water are frequently left where land
lias subsided ; and various substances which manifestly appear to have suttered by the action
of fire, are thrown up. It is indeed true that fire cannot subsist without air ; but this
cannot be urged agiiinst there being fire below that part of the earth which forms the bed of
the sea ; because there may be innumerable fissures by which a communication between
those parts and the external air may be kept up, even upon the highest mountains, and at
the greatest distance from the sea-shore.

On the 4th, Mr. Banks employed himself in planting a great quantity of the seeds of water-
melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees which he had collected at Rio do
Janeiro. For these he prepared groimd on each side of the fort, with as many varieties of
soil as he could choose ; and there is little doubt but that they will succeed. lie also gave
liberally of these seeds to the Indians, and planted many of them in the woods : some of the
melon seeds having been planted soon after our arriviil, the natives showed him several of
the plants, which appeared to be in the most flourishing condition, and were continually
asking him for more.

Wo now began to prepare for our departure., by bending the sails and performing other
necessary operations on board the ship, our water being already on board, and the provisions
examined. In the mean time we had another visit from Oamo. Oberca, and their son and
daughter ; the Indians expressing thcii respect by uncovering the upper parts of their body
.18 they had done before. The daughter, whose name we understood to be Toimata, was
very desirous to see the fort, but her father would by no means sufitr her to come in.
Tearee, tlie son of Waheatua, the sovereign of Tiarrabou, the south-east penini^ula, was
also with us at this time ; and we received intelligence of the lauding of another guest,
whose company was neither expected nor desired : this was no other than the ingenious
gentleman who contrived to steal our quadrant. "Wo were told that he intended to try liis
fortune again in the night; but the Indians all offered very zealously to assist us against
him, desiring that, for this purpose, they might bo permitted to lie in the fort. This had so
good an effect, that the thief relinquished his enterprise in despair.

On the 7th, the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates and palisadocs of our
little fortification, for firewood on board the ship ; and one of the Indians had dexterity
enough to steal the staple and hook upon which the gate turned ; he was immediately
pursued, and after a chase of six miles, ho appeared to have been passed, having concealed
himself among some rushes in the brook ; the rushes were searched, and though the thief
had escaped, a scraper was found which had been stolen from the sliip some time before ;
and soon after our old friend Tubourai Tamaide brought us the staple. On the 8tli and 9th
we continued to dismantle our fort, and our friends still flocked about us ; some, I believe,
sorry at the approach of our departure, and others desirous to make as much as they could
of us while we staid.

Wo were in hopes that we slumld now leave the island, without giving or receiving any
other offence ; but it unfortunately happened otherwise. Two foreign seamen iiaving been
out with my permission, one of them was robbed of his knife, and endeavouring to recover
it, probably with circumstances of great provocation, the Indians attacked him, .ind danger-
ously wounded him with a stone ; they wounded his companion also slightly in the head,
and then fled into the mountains. As I should have been sorry to take any farther notice
of the affair, I was not displeased that the offenders had escaped ; but I was immediately
involved in a quarrel which I very much regretted, and which yet it was not possible to
avoid.

In the middle of the night between the 0th and 9tli, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibson,

i :

..fr'

7tf

COOK'S FIRST VOYAOE ROUND T/IE WORLD.

Jn.Y, 1700.

two of the marines, both young men, went privately from tlic fort, and in the morning were
not to be found. As jniblic notice had been given, that all hands were to go on board on
the next day, and that the whip would sail on the morrow of that day or the day following,
I began to fear that the absentees intended to stay behind. I knew that I could take no
effi-ctual steps to recover them, without endan^jering the harmony and good-will which at
present subsisted among us ; and therefore determined to wait a day for the chance of their
return. On JConday morning the lOth, the marines, to my great concern, not being returned,
an inquiry was n>ade after them of the Indians, who frank'y told us that they did not
intend to return, and had taken refuge in the moimtains, whore it was impossible for our
people to find them. They were then requested to assist in the search, and after some
deliberation, two of them undertook to conduct such persons as I should think pro]>er to
send after them to the ])lace of their retreat. As they were known to be without arms, I
thought two would be sufllicicnt,[and accordingly despatched a petty officer, and the corporal
of the marines, with the Indian guides, to fetch them back. As the recovery of these men
was a matter of great importance, as I had no time to lose, and as the Indians spoke
doubtfully of their return, telling us, that they had each of them taken a wife, and were
become inhabitants of the country, it was intimated to several of the chiefs who were in the
fort with their women, among whom were Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they
would not be permitted to leave it till our deserters were brought back. This precaution I
thought the more necessary, as, by concealing them a few days, they might comjiel me to
go without them ; and I had the ])leasure to observe that they received the intimation with
very little signs either of fear or discontent ; assuring me that my ])eojde should be secured
and sent back as soon as possible. AVhilc this was doing at the fort, I sent Mr. I licks in
the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the ship, which he did, without alarming either him
or his people. If the Indian guides proved faithful and in earnest, I had reason to expect
the return of my people with the deserters before evening. Being disappointed, my suspicions
increased ; and night coming on, I thought it was not safe to let the people whom I had
detained as hostages continue at the fort, and I therefore ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea,
and some others, to be taken on board the ship. This spread a general alarm, and several of
them, especially the women, expressed their apprehensions with great emotion and many tears
when they were put into the boat. I went on board with them, and Mr. Banks remained
on shore, with some others whom I thought it of less consequence to secure.

About nine o'clock, Webb was brought back by some of the natives, who declared that
Gibson, and the petty officer and corporal, would be detained till Tootahah should be set at
liberty. The tables were now turned upon me ; but I bad proceeded too far to retreat. I
immediately despatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong party of men, to rescue
the prisoners, and told Tootahah that it behoved him to send some of his people with them, with
orders to affiird them effectual assistance, and to demand the release of my men in his name,
for that I should expect him to answer for the contrary. He readily complied : this party
recovered my men without the least opposition ; and about seven o'clock in the morning
returned with them to the ship, though they had not been able to recover the arms which
had been taken from them when they were seized : these, however, were brought on board
in less than half an hour, and the chiefs were immediately set at liberty.

When I questioned tiic petty officer concerning what had happened on shore, he told me,
that neither the natives who went with him, nor those whom they met in their way, would
give them any intelligence of the deserters ; but, on the contrary, became very troublesome :
that, as he was returning for further orders to the ship, he and his comrade were suddenly
seized by a number of armed men, who having learnt that Tootahah was confined, had
concealed themselves in a wood for that purpose, and who, having taken them at a
disadvantage, forced their weapons out of their hands, and declared that they would detain
them till their chief should be set at liberty. He said, however, that the Indians were not
unanimous in this measure ; that some were for setting them at liberty, and others for
detaining them ; (hat an eager dispute ensued, and that from words they came to blows, but
that the party for detaining them at length prevailed ; that soon after Webb and Gibson
were brought in by a party of the natives, as prisoners, that they also might bo secured

jiiA", \:c,i).

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLD.

as lio-tagi's for tlic chief ; but tliat it was, after some debate, resolved to seiu! "Webb to
inform ine of tiieir resobition, to assure mo that bis comi)aiiion3 were safe, and direct mo
wbiTo 1 might send my answer. Tbns it appears, that, wliatever were the disadvantages
of seizin"' the chiefs, I sbonhl never have recovered my men by any otlier method. When
the cliiefs were set on shore from the ship, those at tlie fort were also set at liberty, and,
after staying with Mr. Banks about an hour, they ail went away. Upon this occasion, as
til' y had done ui)on another of the same kind, they expressed their joy by an undeserved
liberality, (-trongly "rging us to accept of four hogs. These wo absolutely refused as a
present, and they as absolutely refusing to be paid for them, the hogs did not change masters.
Tpon examining the desertei-s, we found that the account which the Indians had given of
them was true : they had strongly attached themselves to two girls, and it was their intention
to conceal themselves till the ship had sailed, and take up their residence upon the island.
This night everything was got oflF from the shore, and everybody slept on board.

Among the natives who were almost constantly with us, was Tnjjia, whose name has been
often mentioned in this narrative. lie had been, as I have before observed, the first
minister of Obcrca, when she was in the height of her ])ower : ho was also the chief Taliowa
or ])ricst of the island, consequently well acquainted with the religion of the country, as well
with respect to its ceremonies as principles. lie had also great experience and knowledge
in navigation, and was particularly acquainted with the number and situation of the
neighbouring islands. This man bad often expressed a desire to go with us, and on the
)2th in the morning, having, with the other natives, left us the day before, he came on
board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, his servant, and urged us to let him proceed
■with us on our voyage. To have such a person on board was certainly desirable, for many
reasons ; by learning his language, and teaching him ours, we should be able to acquire a
much better knowledge of the customs, policy, and religion of the people, than our short stay
among them could give ns ; I therefore gladly agreed to receive them on board. As we were
)>revcnted from sailing to-day, by having found it necessary io make new stocks to our small
and best bower anchors, the old ones having been totally destroyed by the worms, Tnpia
said, be would go once more on shore, and make a signal for the boat to fetch him off in tho
evening, lie went accordingly, and took with him a miniature picture of Mr, Danks, to
show his friends, and several little things to give them as parting presents.

After dinner, JSIr. Danks being desirous to procure a drawing of the IMorai belonging to
Tootahah at Eparre, I attended him thither, accompanied by Dr. Solander, in the pinnace.
As soon as we landed, many of our friends came to nv < us, though some absented them-
selves in resentment of what had happened the day beiure. "We immediately proceeded to
Tootahah's house, where we were joined by Oberea, with several others who had not come
ont to meet us, and a perfect reconciliation was soon brought about ; in consequence of
which they promised to visit us early the next day, to take a last farewell of us, as we told
them we should certainly set sail in the afternoon. At this place also we found Tupia, who
returned with us, and slept this night on board the ship for the first time.

On the next morning, Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was very early crowded with
our friends, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes, which were filled with the natives of
an inferior class. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor, and as soon as the ship
was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent
sorrow, in which there was something very striking and tender: the people in the canoes,
on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in the loudness of their lamentations, which
we c(msidercd rather as affectation than grief. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a
firmness and resolution truly admirable : he wept, indeed, but the effort that he made to
conceal his tears concurred with them to do him honour. He sent his last present, a shirt,
by Otheothea, tc I'otomai, Tootahah's favourite mistress, and then went with Mr. Banks
to the mast-head, waving to the canoes as long as they continued in sight.

Thus we took leave of Otaheite, and its inhabitants, after a stay of just three months ;
for much the greater part of the time we lived together in the most cordial friendship, and a
perpetual reciprocation of good offices. The accidental differences which now and then
happened could not be more sincerely regretted on their part than they were on ours : the

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1709.

principal raiiscs were such as necessarily resulted from our situntiou and circuniBtanccs, in
conjunction with the infimiitica of human nature, from our not being able perfectly to
understand each other, and from the disposition of the inhabitants to theft, whicli we could
not at all times bear with or prevent. They had not, however, except in one instance, been
attended witli any fatal consequence ; and to tliat accident were owing the measures that
I took to prevent others of the same kind. I hoped, indeed, to have availed myself of tho
impression whicli had been made upon them by tho lives that had hv^a sacrificed in their
contest with the Dolphin*, so as that the intercourse between us should have been carried
on wholly without bloodshed ; and by this hope all my measures were directed during tho
whole of my continuance at the island ; and I sincerely wish, that whoever shall next visit
it may be still more fortunate. Our traffic here was carried on with as much order as in
the best regulated market in Europe. It was managed principally by Mr. Banks, who was
indefatigable in procuring provisions and refreshments while they were to be had ; but
during the latter part of our time they became scarce, partly by the incrcatsed consumption
at the fort and ship, and partly by the coming on of the season in which cocoa-nuts and
bread-fruit fail. All kind of fruit wc purchased for beads and nails ; but no nails loss than
fortypenny were current : after a very short time we could never get a i>ig of more than ten
or twelve pounds for less than a hatchet ; because, though these people set <i high value
upon spike-nails, yet these being an article with which many people in tho ship were
provided, the women found a much more easy way of procuring them than by bringing
down provisions.

The best .articles for traffic here arc axes, hatchet.'), spikes, large nails, looking-glasses,
knives, and beads ; for some of which, everything that the natives have may be procured.
They are indeed fond of fine linen cloth, both white and printed ; but an axe worth half-a-
crown will fetch more than a piece of cloth worth twenty shillings.

CIIAPTF.n XVII. — A PARTICULAU DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND — ITS PRODCCE AND INIIABIT-
ANT.S — TUEIR DRESS, HABITATIONS, FOOD, DOMESTIC LIFE, AND AMUSEMENTS.

"We found the longitude of Port-Royal bay, in this island, as settled by Captain Wallis,
who discovered it on the Dtli of June 17<>7i to be vvithin half a degree of the truth. Wo
found Point Venus, the northern extremity of the island, and the eastern point of the bay,
to lie in the longitude of 149" 13', this being the mean result of a great number of observa-
tions made upon the spot. The iisLind is surrounded by a reef of coral rock, which forms
several excellent bays and harbours, some of which have been particularly described, where
there is room and depth of water for any number of the largest ships. Port- Royal bay,
called, by the natives, Matavai, which is not inferior to any in Otaheite, may easily be
known by a very high mountain in the middle of the island, which bears due south from
Point Venus. To sail into it, either keep the west point of the reef that lies before Point
Venus close on board, or give it a berth of near half a mile, in order to avoid a small shoal
of coral rocks, on which there is but two fathom and a half of %vater. The best anchoring
is on the eastern side '^.f the bay, where there is sixteen and fourteen fathom upon an oozy
bottom. The shore of the bay is a fine sandy beach, behind which runs a river of fresh
v.'atcr, so that any number of sliips may water here without incommoding each other ; but
vhe only wood for firing, upon the whole island, is that of fruit-trees, which must be pur-
chased of the natives, or all hope of living upon good terms with them given up. There are
some harbours to the westward of this bay, which have not been mentioned ; but, as they
arc, contiguous to it, and laid down in the map, a description of them is unnecessary.

The face of the country, except that part of it which borders upon the sea, is very
uneven ; it rises in ridges that run up into the middle of tho island, and there form moun-
tains, which may bo seen at the distance of sixty miles : between tho foot of these ridges

• This happcncJ on Captain W. iis's aniv.il, and was attended with cuneidciaLIc loss to the natives, upon whom
the bhip's guns were rcpi-atedl}' lircd. — Ed.

JiLv, 1700.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

and tlio sea is a borJor of low land, surrounding the whole island, except in a few ])lacc8
where the ridgos rise directly from the sea : the border of low hind is in different jiarts of
different breadths, but nowhere more than a mile and a half. The soil, except upon the
very tops of the ridges, ia extremely rich and fertile, watered by a great number of rivulets
of excellent water, and covered witli fruit-trees of various kinds, some of which are of a
stately growth and thick foliage, so as to form one continued wood ; and even the tops of
the ridges, though in general they arc bare, and burnt up by the sun, are, in some parts,
not without their produce. The low laud tliat lies between the foot of the ridges and the
sea, and some of the valleys, are the only parts of the inland that are inluibited, and here it
is populous : the houses do not form villages or towns, but are ranged along the whole
border at the distance of about fifty yards from each other, with little plantations of plantains,
and the tree which furnishes them with cloth. The whole island, according to Tupia'a
account, who certainly knew, could furnish six thousand seven hundred and eighty lighting
men, from which the number of inhabitants may easily bo computed.

The produce of this island is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, of thirteen sorts, the best
•we had ever eaten ; plantains ; a fruit not unlike an apple, which, wiien ripe, is very
pleasant ; sweet potatoes, yams, cocoas, a kind of Arum ; a fruit known here by the name
of Jamlu, and reckoned most delicious ; sugar-cane, which the inhabitants eat raw ; a root
of the Salop kind, called by the inhabitants Pea ; a plant called Ethee, of which the root
only is eaten ; a fruit that grows in a pod, like that of a large kidney-bean, which, when it
is roasted, eats very much like a chesnut, by the natives called Ahee ; a tree called Jf'/iarra,
called in the East Indies Vandanes, which produces fruit, something like the i>ine-api)le ; a
shrub called Nono ; the Morhida, which also produces fruit ; a species of fern, of which tho
root is eaten, and sometimes the leaves ; and a plant called Thcve, of which the root also is
eaten : but the fruits of tho Nono, the fern, and the Theve, are eaten only by the inferior
people, and in times of scarcity. All these, which serve the inhabitants for food, the earth
produces spontaneously, or with so little culture, that they seem to be exempted from tho
first general curse, that " man should cat his bread in the sweat of his brow." They have
also the Chinese paper mulberry. Mortis papi/rl/cra, which they call Aoula ; a tree resem-
bling the wild fig-tree of the West Indies ; another species of fig, which they call Matte ;
tho Cordia sck'nthia orientalis, which they call Etou ; a kind of Cyperus grass, which they
call Moo ; a species of Tournefortia, which they call Taheinoo ; another of the Convoleuhia
j>oluce, which they call Eurhe ; the Solanum ccnt'ifolium, which they call Ehooa ; the Calo-
phiillnni mophylum, which they call Tamannu ; the Hiblscug tiliacetis, called Pocrott, a
frutescent nettle ; the Urtica ar^entea, called Erotra ; with many other plants which cinnot
here be particularly mentioned : those that have been named already will be referred to in
the subsequent part of this work. They have no European fruit, garden stuff, pulse, or
legumes, nor grain of any kind.

Of tiime animals they have only hogs, dogs, and poultry ; neither is there a wild animal
in the island, except ducks, pigeons, paroquets, with a few other birds, and rats, there being
no other quadruped, nor any serpent. But the sea supplies them with great variety of
most excellent fish, to cat whicli is their chief luxury^ and to catch it their principal
labour.

As to the people, they are of the largest sizo of Europeans. The men are tall, strong,
well-limbed, and finely shaped. The tallest that we saw wiis a man upon a neighbouring
island, called Huaiieine, who measured six feet three inches and a half. The women of tho
superior rank are also in general above our middle stature, but those of the inferior class arc
rather below it, and some of them are very small. This defect in size probably proceeds
from their early commerce with men, tho only thing in which they differ from their supe-
riors that could possibly affect their growth. Their natural complexion is that kind of
clear olive, or brHiietlc, which many people in Europe prefer to the finest white and red. In
those that are exposed to tho wind and sun, it is considerably deepened, but in others
that live under shelter, especially the superior chss of women, it continues of its native hue,
and the skin is most delicately smooth and soft : they havo no tint in their cheeks which
we distinguish by the name of colour. The shape of the face is comely, the cheek-bones

\f\

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE AVORI.P.

Ji i,Y, 17C9.

«• .

IIR.(D or UTAIIFIT;IN WOMAN.

arc not liigli, neither arc tlic eyes hollow, nor the brow prominent : the only feature that
(Iocs not correspond with onr ideas of beauty is the nose, which, in general, is somewhat
flat ; but their eyes, especially those of the women, arc full of expression, sometimes
sparkliiiLT with fire, and sometimes melting with softness ; their teeth also are, almost
without exception, most beairtifully even and white, and their breath perfectly without

taint.

Tlie hair is almost universally black, and
rather coarse : the men have beards, which
they wear in many fashions, always, how-
ever, plucking out great part of them, and
keeping the rest perfectly clean and neat.
I$otli sexes also eradicate every hair from under
their arms, and accused us of great uncleanli-
ness for not doing tlie same. In their motions
there is at once vigour and ease ; their walk
is graceful, their deportment liberal, and their
behaviour to strangers and to each other
affable and courteous. In their dispositions,
also, they seemed to be brave, open, and
candid, without either suspicion or treachery,
cru>;lty or revenge ; so that we placed the
same confidence in them as in our best friends,
many of ns, particularly Mr. Banks, sleeping
frequently in their houses in the woods, with-
out a companion, and consequently wholly in their power. They were, however, all thieves ;
and when that is allowed, they need not much fear a competition with the people of any
other nation upon earth. During our stay in this island, we saw about five or six persons,
like cue that was met by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander on the 24th of April, in their walk
to tlic eastward, whose skins were of a dead white, like the nose of a white horso ; with
white hair, beard, brows, and eye-lashes ; red, tender eyes ; a short sight, and scurfy skins,
covered with a kind of white down ; but we found that no two of these belonged to the
same family, and therefore concluded, that they were not a species, but unhappy indivi-
duals, rendered anomalous by disease.

It is a custom in moat countries where the inhabitants have long hair, for the men to cut
it short, and the women to pride themselves in its length. Here, however, the contrary
custom prevails ; the women always cut it short round their ears, and the men, except the
fishers, who are almost continually in the water, suffer it to flow in largo waves over their
shoulders, or tie it up in a bunch on the top of their heads. They have a custom, also, of
anointing their heads with what they call Monoe, an oil expressed from the cocoa-nut, in
which some sweet herbs or flowers have been infused : as the oil is generally rancid, the
smell is at first very disagreeable to a European ; and as they live in a hot country, and
have no such thing as a comb, they arc not able to keep their heads free from lice, which
the children and common people sometimes pick out and eat : a hateful custom, wholly
different from their manners in every other particular ; for they are delicate and cleanly
almost without example ; and those to whom we distributed combs soon delivered them-
selves from vermin, with a diligence which showed that they were not more odious to us
than to them.

They have a custom of staining their bodies, nearly in the same manner as is practised in
many other parts of the world, which they call Tatlowing. They prick the skin, so as just
not to fetch blood, with a small instrument, something in the form of a hoc ; that part
which answers to the blade is made of a hone or shell, scraped very thin, and is from a
quarter of an inch to an inch and a half wide ; the edge is cut into sharp teeth or points,
from the number of three to twenty, according to its size : when this is to be used, they
dip the teeth into a mixture of a kind of lamp-black, formed of the smoke that rises from an
oily nut which they burn Instead of candles, and water; the teeth, thus prepared, are

JuLv,17(J9.

COOK'S FIRST VOY.r.E ROUND THE WORLD.

placed upon the skin, and the liandle to which they are fastened being struck, by quick
smart blows, with a stick fitted to the purpose, they pierce it, and at the same time carry
into the puncture the black composition, wliich leaves an indelible stain. The operation is
painful, and it is some days before the wounds are healed. It is performed upon the youth
of both sexes when they are about twelve or fourteen years of age, on several parts of tho
body, and in various figures, according to the fancy of the parent, or perhaps the rank of
tJie party. Tlio women are generally marked with this stain, in the form of a Z, on every
joint of their fingers and toes, and frequently round the outside of their feet : the men arc
also marked with tho same figure, and both men and women have squares, circles, crescents,
and ill-designed representations of men, birds, or dogs, and various other devices impre^^8cd
upon their legs, and arms, some of which, we are told, had significations, though we could
never learn what they were. But the part on which these ornaments arc lavished with tho
greatest profusion is tho breech : this, in both sexes, is covered with a deep black ; abovo
which, arches aro drawn one over another as high as the short ribs. They are often a
quarter of an inch broad, and the edges are not straight lines, but indented. These arches
are their pride, and aro shown both by men and women with a mixture of ostentation and
])lea8uro ; whetiier as an ornament, or a proof of their fortitude and resolution in bearing
pain, wo could not determine. The face in general is left immarked : for we saw but ono
instance to the contrary. Some old men had the greatest part of their bodies covered v ith
large patches of black, deeply indented at the edges, like a rude imitation of flame ; but we were
told, that they came from a low island, called Noouoora, and were not natives of OtJihcite.
Mr. Banks saw the operation of tattotcUiff performed upon the biickside of a girl about
thirteen years old. The instrument used upon this occasion had thirty teeth, and every
stroke, of which at least a hundred were made in a minute, drew an ichor or serum a little
tinged with blood. The girl bore it with most stoical resolution for about a quarter of an
hour ; but the pain of so many hundred punctures as she had received in that time tlieu
became intolerable : she first complained in murmurs, then wept, and at last burst into loud
lamentations, earnestly imploring the opi-rator to desist. He was, however, inexorable ;
and when she began to struggle, she was held down by two women, who sometimes soothed
and Sometimes chid her, and now and then, when she was most unruly, gave her a smart
blow. ]\Ir. Banks staid in a neighbouring house an hour, and the operation was not over
when he went away ; yet it was performed but upon one side, the other having been done
some time before ; and the arches upon the loins, in which they most pride themselves, and
which give more pain than all the rest, were still to be done. It is strange tliat these
people should value themselves upon what is no distinction ; for I never saw a native of this
island, either man or woman, in a state of maturity, in whom these marks were wanting :
possibly they may have their rise in superstition, especially as they produce no visible advantage,
and are not made without great pain ; but though we inquired of many hundreds, we could
never get any account of the matter.
Their clothing consists of cloth or
matting of different kinds, which will
be described among their other ma-
nufactures. The cloth which will not
bear wetting they wear in dry wea-
ther, and the matting when it rains :
they are put on in many different
ways, jusi as their fancy leads them;
for in their garments nothing is cut
into shape, nor are any two pieces
sewed together. The dress of the
better sort of women consists of three
or four pieces : one piece, about two
yards wide, and eleven yards long,
they wrap several times round their
waist, so as to hang down like a ]>et-
ticoat as low as tho middle of the leg.

»■"#■ *:

'■■M

\ V

i ....

^fi-

^mm

MAT-WORK TIPPKT OF A rillFF.

COOK'S FIKST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1769.

and this tlicy call Paroii : two or tliroe otiicr pieces, about two yards and a half long, and
one wide, each having a h»>lo cut in the middle, they place one upon another, and then
putting the head through the lioles, they bring the long ends down before and behind ; the
others remain open at the sides, and give liberty to tlic arms : this, wliich they call the
Ti'bittd, is gatlicred round the waii^t, and confined with a girdle or sash of thinner cloth,
which is long enough to go many times round them, and exactly resembles the garment
worn by the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, wliich the Spaniards call Poncho. The dress of
the men is the same, except that, instead of suffering the cloth that is wound about the hips
to hang down like a petticoat, they bring it between their legs so as to have some resem-
blance to breeches, and it is then called Muro. This is the dre&s of all ranks of people, and
being universally the same as to form, the gentlemen and ladies distinguish themselves from
the lower people by the quantity : some of them will wrap round them several pieces of
cloth, eight or ten yards long, and two or three broad ; and some throw a large piece loosely
over their shoulders, in the manner of a cloak ; or perhaps two pieces, if they are very great
personages, and are desirous to appear in state. The inferior sort, who have only a small
allowance of cloth from the tribes or families to which they belong, are obliged to be more
thinly clad. In the heat of the day, they appear almost naked, the women having only a
scanty petticoat, and the men nothing but tiic sash that is passed between their legs and
fastened round the waist. As finery is always troublesome, and particularly in a hot
country, where it consists in putting one covering upon another, the women of rank always
uncover themselves as low as the waist in the evening, throwing off all that they wear on
the upper part of the body, with the same negligence and ease as our ladies would lay by a
cardinal or double handkerchief. And the chiefs, even when they visited us, though they
had as much cloth round their middle as would clothe a dozen people, had frequently the
rest of the body quite naked.

i v

SPKCIMENS OK C-J>PS.

Upon their legs and feet, they wear no covering ; but they shade their faces from the 3un
with little bonnets, either of matting or of cocoa-nut leaves, which they make occasionally
in a few minutes. This, however, is not all their head-dress ; the women sometimes wear
little turbans, and sometimes a dress which they value much more, and which, indeed, is
much more becoming, called tonwu : the tomou consists of human hair, plaited in threads,
scarcely thicker than sewing-silk. Mr. Banks has pieces of it above a mile in length,
without a knot. These they wind round the head in such a manner as produces a very
pretty effect, and in a very great quantity ; for I have seen five or six such pieces wound
about the head of one woman : among these threads they stick flowers of various kinds,
particularly the Cape-jessamine, of wliich they have great plenty, as it is always planted
near their houses. Tiie men sometimes stick the tail-feather of the tropic-bird upright in
their hair, which, as I have observed before, is often tied in a bunch upon the top of their
heads : sometimes they wear a kind of whimsical garland, made of flowers of various kinds,
stuck into a piece of the rind of a plantain ; or of scarlet peas, stuck with gum upon a piece

1769.

July, 1709.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

MANTLE OK A CHIEF.

of wood : and sometimes tliey wear a kind of
wig, made of tiie hair of men or dogs, or perlia|)9
of cocoa-nut strings, woven upon one thread,
wliicli is tied under their hair, so that these
artificial honours of their Ijead may hang down
beliiiid. Tlieir personal ornaments, be^iides flowers,
arc few ; both sexes wear ear-rings, hut they aro
placed only on one side : when wo came tliey
consisted of small pieces of shell, stone, berries,
red peas, or some small pearls, three in a string ;
but our beads very soon supplanted them all.
The children go quite naked : the girls till they
are three or four years old ; and the boys till they
are six or seven.

The 1 (uses, or rather dwellings, of these
people have been occasionally mentioned before :
they are all built in the wood between tiie sea
and the mountains, and no more ground is
cleared for each house tlian just sufficient to pre-
vent the dropping of the branches from rotting
the thatch with which they are covered ; from the house, therefore, the inhabitant steps
immediately under the shade, which is the most delightful that can he imagined. It consists
of groves of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, without underwood, which arc intersected, in all
directions, by the paths that lead from one house to the other. Nothing can be more grateful
than this shade in so warm a climate, nor anything more beautiful than these walks. As
there is no underwood, the shade cools without impeding the air ; and the houses having no
walls, receive the gale from whatever point it blows. I shall now give a particular
desciiption of a house of a middling size, from which, as the structure is univcri^ally
the same, a perfect idea may be formed both of those that are bigger and those that
are less.

The ground which it covers is an oblong square, four-and-twenty feet long, and eleven
wide ; over this a roof is raised upon three rows of pillars or posts, parallel to each other, one
on each side, and the other in the middle. Tliis roof consists of two flat sides inclining to
each other, and terminating in a ridge, exactly like the roofs of our thatched houses in
England. The utmost height within is about nine feet, and the caves on each side reach to
within about three feet and a half of the ground : below this, and through the whole height,
at each end, it is open, no part of it being inclosed with a wall. The roof is thatched with palm-
leaves, and the floor is covered, some inches deep, with soft hay : over this are laid mats, so
that the whole is one cushion, upon which they sit in the day and sleep in the night. In
some houses, however, there is one stool, which is wholly appropriated to the master of
the family ; besides this, they have no furniture, except a few little blocks of wood, the upper
side of which is hollowed into a curve, and which serves them for pillows.

The house is indeed principally used as a dormitory ; for, except it rains, they cat in tho
open air, under the shade of the next tree. Tiie clothes that they wear in the day serve them
for covering in the night : the floor is the common bed of the whole household, and is not
divided by any partition. The master of the house and his wife sleep in the middle, next
to them the married people, next to them the unmarried women, and next to them, at a
little distance, the unmarried men : the servants, or toiitous, as they are called, sleep in tho
open air, except it rains ; and in Uiat case tiioy come just within the shade.

There are, however, houses of another kind belonging to the chiefs, in which there is
some degree of privacy. These are much smaller, and so constructed as to be carried about
in their canoes from place to place, and set up occasionally like a tent : they are inclosed on
the sides with cocoa-nut leaves, but not so close as to exclude the air; and the chief and his
wife sleep in them alone. There are houses also of a much larger size, not built cither for
tho accommodation of a single chief or a single family ; but as common receptacles for all

COOK'S FIIIST VOYAOE ROUND THE WORLD.

.I11.Y, 1700.

the people of a district. Some of them are two Iiundroil foot long, tliirty broail, and, under
the ridge, twenty feet liigli : these are built and maintained at the common expense uf the
district, for the accommodation of which they arc intended ; and have un one side of them a
large area, inclosed with low iialisadoes.

INTRHlun OF A POLVNKilUN IIOUSF.

HI?

These houses, like those of separate families, have no walls. Privacy, indeed, is little
wanted among people who have not even the idea of indecency, and who gratify every
appetite and passion before witnesses with no more scnsi of impropriety than we feel when
we satisfy our hunger at a social board with our family or friends. Those who have no
idea of indecency with respect to actions, can have none with respect to words ; it is, there-
fore, scarcely necessary to observe that in the conversation of these people, that which
is the principal source of their pleasure is always the principal topic ; and that every-
thing is mentioned without any restraint or emotion, and in the most direct terms, by
both sexes.

Of the food eaten here the greater part is vegetable. Here are no tame animals except
hogs, dogs, and poultry, as I have observed before, and these are by no means plenty. When
a chief kills a hog, it is almost equally divided among his dependants ; and, as they are very
numerous, the share of each individual at these feasts, which are not frequent, must neces-
sarily be small. Dogs and fowls fall somewhat more frequently to the share of the common
people. I cannot much commend the flavour of their fowls ; but we all agreed that a South-
sea dog was little inferior to an English Iamb : their excellence is probably owing to their
being kept up, and fed wholly upon vegetables. The sea affords them a great variety of
fish. The smaller fish, when they catch any, are generally eaten raw, as we eat oysters ;
and nothing that the sea produces comes amiss to them : they are fond of lobsters, crabs, and
other shell-fish, which are found upon the coast ; and they will eat not only sea-insects, but
what the seamen call blubbers, though some of them are so tough, that they are obliged to
suffer them to become putrid before they can be chewed. Of the many vegetables that have
been mentioned already as serving them foi fcccl, the principal is the bread-fruit, to procure
which costs them no trouble or labour but climbing a tree : the tree which produces it does

JiLv, 17<i!).

rOOK'S FIIIST VOYAliK ItOUND TIIK WOULD.

except
When

common
South-
to their
iriety of
lysters ;
abs, and
cts, but
ligecl to
at have
procure
it does

not indeed whoot up spontaneoiisly ; but if a man plants ten of them in hia lifetime, wliicli he
may do in about au hour, he will a-s completely fulfil hia duty to hia own an<l future gene-
rations as the nalivoa of our leas teniperato climate can do by ])Ioughing in the cohl of winter,
and rrai)ing in the aumnu'r'a heat, as often aa theae seaaona return ; even if, after ho baa
l>rocure<l bread for his present household, bo should convert a aurplus into money,
and lay it up for hia children. It is tnie, indeed, that the bread-fruit ia not always in
season ; but cocoa-nuts, bananaa, plantains, and a great variety of other fruits, supply the
deficiency.

It may well be supposed tli.it cookery ia but little studied by these people aa an nrt ; and
indeed they have but two ways of ap))lying tire to dress their Atod, — bniiiiag and baking.
Tiio opcratien of broiling is so simple, that it reipiires no description ; and their baking has
been described already (page (!'>), in the account of an entertainment jjfeparcd for ua by
Tiipia. Iloga and large ii»<h arc extremely well dressed in the same manner; and, in our
opinion, were more juicy and more equally done than by any art of cookery now practised
in Europe. Ui-ead-fruit is also cooked in an oven of the samo kind, which renders it
soft, and something like a boiled potato; not quite so farinaceous aa a gttod one, but
more so than those of the middling sort. Of the bread-fruit they also make three dishes,
by putting either water or the milk of the cocoa-nut to it, then beating it to a paste with
a stone pestle, and afterwards mixing it with ripe plantains, bananas, or tho sour paste
which they call Ma/iic.

The mahie, which has been mentioned as a succedancum for ripe bread-fruit, before the
season for gathering a fresh crop comes on, is thus made : — The fruit is gathered just before
it ia perfectly ripe, and being laid in heaps, is- closely covered with leaves ; in this state it
undergoes a fermentation, and becomes disagreeably sweet : tho core is then taken out
entire, which is done by gently pulling the stalk, and the rest of the fruit is thrown into a
Iiole which is dug for that purpose, generally in the houses, and neatly lined in the bottom
and sides with grass ; the whole is then covered with leaves, and heavy stones laid ui)on
them : in this state it undergoes a second fermentation, and becomes sour, after which it will
suffer no change for many months : it is taken out of the bole as it is wanted for use, and
being made into balls, it is wrapped up in leaves and baked ; after it is dressed, it will keep
five or six weeks. It is eaten both cold and hot, and the natives seldom make a meal without
it, tlioii;;li to us the taste was as disagreeable as that of a pickled olive generally is tho first
time it is eaten.

As the making of this mahie depends, like brewing, upon fermentation, so, like brewing,
it sometimes fails, without their being able to ascertain the cause ; it is very natural, there-
fore, tliat tho making it should bo connected with superstitious notions and ceremonies.
It generally falls to the lot of the old women, who will suffer no creature to touch anything
belonging to it, but those whom they employ as assistants, nor even to p into that part of
the house where the operation is carrying on. Air. Hanks happened to spoil a large quantity
of it only by inadvertently touching a leaf which lay upon it. The old woman who then
jircsided over these mysteries told him that the jjroccss would fail, and immediately uncovered
the hole in a fit of vexation and despair. Mr. Banks regretted the mischief he had douc, but
was somewhat consoled by the opportunity which it gave him of examining the preparation,
which perhaps, but for such an accident, would never have ofi\;red.

Such is their food, to which salt-water is the universal sauce, no meal being eaten without
it : those who live near the sea have it fetched as it is wanted ; those who live at some
distance keep it in largo bamboos, which are set up in their houses for use. Salt-water,
however, is not their only sauce ; they make another of the kernels of cocoa-nuts, which being
fermented till they dissolve into a paste somewhat resembling butter, are beaten up with salt-
water. Tho flavour of this is very strong, and was, when we first tasted it, exceedingly
nauseous ; a little use, however, reconciled some of our people to it so much, that they
preferred it to our own sauces, especially with fish. The natives seemed to consider it as a
dainty, and do not use it at their common meals ; possibly, because they think it ill manage-
ment to use cocoa-nuts so lavishly, or perhaps, when we were at the island, they were scarcely
ripe enough for the purpose.

• ^

i I

i;:^

: I

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jri.Y, 1700.

For drink, tlioy liavo in pcnoral nothing hut water, or the jiiicc of the cooon-nut; tlic art
of producing liipiors that iiitoxicato, hy fi-rincntation, bcinjj happily unknown among tlicin ;
neither have tlicy any narcotic which tliev chrw, as the natives of Homo otiier countries
do o|)iuni, hetel-root, and tohacco. ^^olnu of them drank freely of our licpiors, and in a
few instances hecanio very drunk ; hut the persons to whom this happened were so far from
dcHiring to repeat the debauch, that they would never touch any of our li(|uorH afterwards.
Wo were, howover, infornu-d, that they became drunk by drinking a juice that is expressed
from tho leaves of a plant which they call Arn Am. 'Hm plant was not in season when wo
wore there, so that wc saw no instances of its cH'ects ; and as they considered drunkenness
as a disgrace, they probably would have concealed from us any instances which might havo
happened during our stay. This vice is almost peculiar to the chiefs and cousiderablo
persons, who viu with each other in drinking the greatest number of draughts, each draught
being about a pint. They keep this intoxicating juice with great earo from their women.

Table they have none ; but their apparatus for eating is set out with-great neatness, though
tho articles aro too simple and too few to allow anything for show; and they commonly cat
alone ; but when a stranger happens to visit them, ho sometimes makes a second in their mess.
Of the meal of one of their principal people I shall give a particular description. He sits down
under the shade of tho next tree, or on the shady side of his house, and a large quantity of
leaves, either of the bread-fruit or banana, are neatly spread before him upon tho ground as
a tablc-cloth ; a basket is then set by him that contains his provision, which, if fish or flesh,
is ready dressed, and wrapped up in leaves, and two cocoa-nut shells, one full of alt water,
and tho other of fresh : his attendants, which are not few, seat themselves round him, and
when all is ready, he begins by washing his hands and his mouth thoroughly with the fresh
water, and this he repeats almost continually throughout the whole meal ; ho then takes
part of his provision out of the basket, which generally consists of a small fish or two, two
or three bread-fruits, fourteen or fifteen ripe bananas, or six or seven apples ; ho first takes
half a bread-fruit, peels off the rind, and takes out the core with his nails ; of this he puts
as much into his mouth as it can hold, and while ho chews it, takes the fish out of the
leaves, and breaks one of them into the salt water, placing the other, and what remains of
the bread-fruit, upon the leaves that have been spread before him. When this is done, he
takes up a small piece of tho fish that has been broken into tiie salt water, with all the
fingers of one hand, and sucks it into his mouth, so as to get with it as much of the salt
water as possible : in the same manner he takes the rest by different morsels, and between
each, at least very frequently, takes a small sup of the salt water, either out of the cocoa-
nut shell, or the palm of his hand : in the mean time one of his attendants has prepared
a young cocoa-nut, by peeling off the outer rind with his teeth, an operation which to a
Euro])ean appears very surpriijing ; but it depends so much upon sleight, that many of us
were able to do it before we left the island, and some that could scarcely crack a filbert :
the master, when he chooses to drink, takes the cocoa-nut thus prepared, and boring a hole
through the shell with his finger, or breaking it with a stone, he sucks out the liquor.
When he has eaten his bread-fruit and fish, he begins with his plantains, one of which
makes but a mouthful, though it be as big as a black-pudding ; if, instead of plantains, ho
has apples, he never tastes them till they have been pared ; to do this a shell is picked up
from the ground, where they are always in plenty, and tossed to him by an attendant : he
immediately begins to cut or scrape off the rind, but so awkwardly that great part of the
fruit is wasted. If, instead of fish, he has flesh, he must have some succedaneum for a knife
to divide it ; and for this purpose a piece of bamboo is tossed to him, of which he makes
the necessary implement by splitting it transversely with his nail. While all this has been
doing, some of his attendants have been employed in beating bread-fruit with a stone pestle
upon a block of wood ; by being beaten in this manner, and sprinkled from time to time
with water, it is reduced to the consistence of a soft paste, and is then put into a vessel
somewhal like a butcher's tray, and either made up alone, or mixed with banana or mahic,
according to the taste of the master, by pouring water upon it by degrees and squeezing it
often through the hand : under this operation it acquires tho consistence of a thick custard,
and a large cocoa-nut shell full of it being sot before him, he sips it as we should do a jelly

I7<J9.

JttY, 1709.

COOK'S FIRST VOY.Xr.E KOUNI) TUB WOULD.

»t7

cocoa-

>repared

ich to a

ly of us

ilbert :

a hole

liquor.

which

ains, he

ced up

int : he

of the

I knife

makes

as been

pestle

o time

vessel

mahic,

!zing it

ustard,

a jelly

if wo had no Rpoon to take it froiii the gla^s : the meal is then finished by again washing bis
hands and his mouth. After which the cocoa-nut shells are cleaned, and everything that is
left is replaced in the basket.

The quantity of food which thc>«o people cat at a meal is pro'ligious : I have seen one
man devour tw- or three fishes as big as a perch ; tlirec bread-fruita, each bigger tlian two
fists ; fourteen or fifteen ])lantains or bananas, each of them six or seven inches long, and
four or five round ; and near a quart «)f the ]>onnded bread-fruit, wliieh is as substantial aa
the thickest unbaked custard. This is so extraordinary that I scarcely expect to be believed ;
and I would not have related it upon my own single testimony; but 3Ir. Danks, Dr.
Solander, and most of the other gentlemen, have had ocular demonstnition of its truth, and
know that I mention them upon tlic occasion.

It is very wonderful that these people, who are remarkably fond of society, and
particularly that of their women, should exclude its pleasures from the tabic, where among
all other nations, whether civil or savage, they have been principally enjoyed. How a meal,
which everywhere else brings families and friends together, came to 8e|)arato them here, wo
often inquired, but could never learn. Tiiey ate alone, they said, because it was right ; but
why it was right to cat alone they never attempted to tell us : such, however, was the force
of habit, that they expressed the strongest dislike, and even disgust, at our eating in society,
especially with our women, and of the sanic victuals. At first, we thought this strange
singularity arose from some superstitious opinion ; but they constantly affirmed the contrary.
We observed also some caprices in the custom, for which wo could as little account as for
the custom itself. Wo could never prevail with any of the women to partake of the victuals
at our table when we were dining in company; yet they would go, five or six together, into
the servants' apartments, and there eat very heartily of whatever they could find, of which
I have before given a particular instance ; nor were they in tho least disconcerted if we
came in while they were doing it. When any of us have been alone with a woman, she has
sometimes eaten in our company; but then she has expressed the greatest unwillingness that
it should be known, and always extorted the strongest promises of secrecy.

Among themselves, even two brothers and two sisters have each their separate baskets
with provision and the apparatus of their meal. When they first visited us at our tents,
each brought his basket with him ; and when we sat down to table, they would go out, sit
down upon the ground, at two or three yards' distance from each other, and turning their
faces different ways, take their repast without interchanging a single word. The women
not only abstain from eating with the men, and of the same victuals, but even have their
victuals separately prepared by boys kept for that purpose, wlio deposit it in a separate
shed, and attend them with it at their meals. But though they would not cat with us or
with each other, they have often asked us to cat with them, when wo have visited those
with whom we were particularly acquainted at their houses ; and wo have often upon such
occasions eaten out of the same basket, and drunk out of the same cup. The elder women,
however, always appeared to be offended at this liberty; and if we happened to touch their
victuals, or even the basket that contained it, would throw it away.

After meals, and in the heat of the day, the middle-aged people of the better sort
generally sleep : they are, indeed, extremely indolent ; and sleeping and eating is almost all
that they do. Those that are older arc less drowsy, and tho boys and girls are kept awake
by the natural activity and sprightliness of their age.

Their amusements have occasionally been mentioned in my account of the incidents that
happened during our residence in this inland, particularly music, dancing, wrestling, and
shooting with the bow; they also sometimes vie with each other in throwing a lance. As
shooting is not at a mark, but for distance ; throwing the lance is not for distance, but at a
mark : the weapon is about nine feet long, the mark is the bole of a plantain, and the
distance about twenty yards. Their only music.il instruments are flutes and drums ; the
flutes are made of a hollow bamboo about a foot long, and, as has been observed before, have
only two stops, and consequently but four notes, out of which they seem hitherto to have
formed but one tune : to these stops they apply the fore finger of the left hand and the middle
iinger of the right.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1760.

KLUTB AND DRUM PLAYEKS.

The drum is made of a hollow block of
wood, of a cylindrical form, solid at one end,
and covered at the other with shark's akin :
these they beat, not witli sticks, but their
hands ; and they know how to tune two drums
of different notes into concord. They have
also an expedient to bring the flutes that
play together into unison, which is to roll up a
leaf so as to slip over the end of the shortest,
like our sliding tubes for telescopes, which
they move up or down till the purpose is
answered, of wliich they seem to judge by
their ear with great nicety.

To these instruments they sing ; and, as
I have observed before, their songs are often
extempore : they call every two verses or
couplet a song, felmy: they are generally,
though not always, in rhyme ; and when
pronounced by the natives, we could dis-
cover that they were metre. Mr. Banks
took great pains to write down some of
them which were made upon our arrival, as
nearly as he could express their sounds by
combinations of our letters; but when we
read them, not having their accent, we could
The reader will easily perceive that they arc

scarcely make them either metre or rliyme.
of a scry dilTerent structure.

Tcde pnhai dc parow-a
I III iiiiiru no luiiia.

E pnliiih Tuyo malnma tni ya
Nn Tubauc tonatou wliannoini ya.

E Tiiiui cattu terara patcc wliciinua to.ii
liio o uiiiio Prctane to whcnnuaia no Tutc.

Of tliese verses our knowledge of the language is too imperfect to attempt a translation.
Tlicy frequently amuse themselves by singing such couplets as these when they are alone,
or with their families, especially after it is dark ; for though they need no fires, they are
not without the comfort of artificial light between sunset and bedtime. Their candles are
made of the kernels of a kind of oily nut, which they stick one over another upon a skewer
that is thrust through the middle of them ; the upper one being lighted, burns down to the
second, at the same time consuming that part of the skewer which goes through it ; the
second taking fire, burns in the same manner down to the third, and so of the rest : some of
these candles will burn a considerable time, and they give a very tolerable light. They do not
often sit up above an hour after it is dark ; but when they have strangers who sleep in the
house, they generally keep a light burning all night, possibly as a check upon such of the
women as they wish not to honour them with their fivvours. Of their itinerary concerts
I need add nothing to what has been said already ; especially as I shiiU have occasion more
particularly to mention them when I -elate our adventures upon another island.

In other countries the girls and unmarried women are supposed to be wholly ignorant of
what others upon some occasions may appear to know ; and their conduct and conversation
are consequently restrained within narrower bounds, and kept at a more remote distance
from whatever relates to a connexion with the other sex ; but here it is just contrary.
Among other diversions, there is a dance, called timorodee, which is performed by young
girls, whenever eight or ten of them can be collected together, consisting of motions and
gestures beyond imagination wanton, in the practice of which they are brought up from
their earliest childhood, accompanied by words which, if it were possible, would more

Ji i-v, 17G9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

8!)

oxpliciitly convey the same ideas. In these dances they keep time with an exactness which
U scarcely excelled by the best performers upon tlio stages of Europe. But the practice
which is allowed to the virgin is prohibited to the woman from the moment that she has put
these hopeful lessons in practice, and realized the symbols of the dance.

It cannot be supposed that, among these people, chastity is held in much estimation. It
might be expected that sisters and daughters would be offered to strangers, either as
a courtesy or for reward ; and that breaches of conjugal fidelity, even in the wife, should not
be otherwise punished than by a few hard words, or perhaps a slight beating, as indeed is
the case ; but there is a scale in dissolute sensuality, which these people have ascended,
wholly unknown to every other nation wiiose manners have been recorded from the beginning
of the world to the present hour, and which no imagination could possibly conceive.

A very considerable number of the principal people of Otaheite, of both sexes, have formed
themselves into a society, in which every woman is common to every man ; -.hus securing a
perpetual variety as often as their inclination prompts them to seek it, which is so frequi t,
that the same man and woman seldom cohabit together more than two or three days. These
societies are distinguished by the name oi Arrcoy ; and the members have meetings, at
which no other is present, where the men amuse themselves by wrestling, and the women,
notwithstanding their occasional connexion with different men, dance the timorodec in all
its latitude, as an incitement to desires which it is said are frequently gratified upon the
spot. This, however, is comparatively nothing. If any of tiie women happen to be with
child, which in this manner of life happens less frequently than if they were to cohabit only
with one man, the poor infant is smoi.liered the moment it is born, that it may be no
incumbrance to the father, nor interrupt the mother in the pleasures of her diabolical
l)rostitution. It sometimes indeed happens, that the passion which prompts a woman to
enter into this society is surmounted when she becomes a mother, by that instinctive
affection which nature has given to all creatures for the preservation of their offspring ; but
even in this case she is not permitted to spare the life of her infant, except she can find a
man who will patronise it as his child ; if this can be done the murder is prevented ; but both
the man and woman, being deemed by this act to have appropriated each other, are ejected
from the community, and forfeit all claim to the privileges and pleasures of the Arreoy for
the future ; the woman from ^.iiat time being distinguished by the term W/iannotcnoir>,
" bearer of children," which is here a term of reproach ; though none can be more honourable
in the estimation of wisdom and humanity, of right reason, and every passion that distin-
guishes the man from the brute. It is not fit that a practice so horrid and so strange should
be imputed to lur an beings upon slight evidence, but I have such as abundantly justifies
me in the account I have given. The people themselves are so far from concealing their
connexion with such a society as a disgrace, that they boast of it as a privileg-? ; and both
myself and Mr. Banks, when particular persons have been pointed out to us as members of
the Arreoy, have questioned them about it, and received the account that has been here
given from their own lips. They have acknowledged that they had long been of this
accursed society, that they belonged to it at that time, and that several of their children
had been put to death.

But I must not conclude my account of the domestic life of these people without
mentioning their personal cleanliness. If that which lessens the good of life and increases
the evil is vice, surely cleanliness is a virtue : the want of it tends to destroy both beauty
and health, and mingles disgust with our best pleasures. The natives of Otaheite, both men
•ind women, constantly wash their whole bodies in running water three times every day ;
once as soon as they rise in the morning, once at noon, and again before they sleep at night,
whether the sea or river is near them or at a distance. I have already observed that they
wash not only the mouth but the hands at their meals, almost between every morsel ; and
their clothes, as well as their persons, arc kept without spot or stain ; so that in a largo
company of these people nothing is suffered but heat, which, perhaps, is more than can bo
said of the politest assembly in Europe.

■■■

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1"69.

CHAPTER XVIII. OP THE MANUFACTCBES, BOATS, AND NAVIGATION OP OTAHEITE.

Ip necessity is the mother of invention, it cannot be supposed to liavc been much exerted
wliere the liberality of Nature has rendered the diligence of Art almost superfluous ; yet
there are many instances both of ingenuity and labour among these people, which, considering
the want of metal for tools, do honour to both. Their principal manufacture is their
cloth, in the making and dyeing of which I think there are some particulars which
may instruct even the artificers of Great Britain, and for that reason my description will
be more minute.

Their cloth is of three kinds ; and it is made of the bark of three different trees, the
Chinese paper mulberry, the bread-fruit tree, and the tree which resembles the wild fig-tree
of the West Indies. The finest and whitest is made of the paper mulberry. Acuta ; this is
worn chiefly by the principal people, and when it is dyed red takes a better colour. A
second sort, inferior in whiteness and softness, is made of the bread-fruit tree, Ooroo, and
worn chiefly by the inferior people ; and a third, of the tree that resembles the fig, which is
coarse and harsh, and of the colour of the darkest brown paper ; this, though it is less
pleasipg both to the eye and the touch, is the most valuable, because it resists water, which
the other two sorts will not. Of this, which is the most rare as well as the most useful, the
greater part is perfumed, and worn by the chiefs as a morning dress.

All these trees are propagated wi^h great care, particularly the mulberry, which covers
the largest part of the cultivated land, and is not fit for use after two or three years' growth,
when it is about six or eight feet high, and somewhat thicker than a man''s thumb ; its
excellence is to be thin, straight, tall, and without branches : the lower leaves, therefore, are
carefully plucked ofl^, with their germs, as often as there is any appearance of their producing
a branch.

But though the cloth made of these three trees is diflorent, it is all manufactured in the
same manner ; I shall, therefore, describe the process only in the fine sort, that is made of
the mulberry. When the trees are of a proper size, they are drawn up, and stripped of their
branches, after which the roots and tops are cut off ; the bark of these rods being then slit
up longitudinally, is easily drawn off, and when a proper quantity has been procured, it is
carried down to some running water, in which it is deposited to soak, and secured from
floating away by heavy stones : when it is supposed to be sufficiently softened, the women
servants go down to the brook, and stripping themselves, sit down in the water, to separate
the inner bark from the green part on the outside ; to do this they place the under side upon
a flat smooth board, and with the shell, which our dealers call tiger's tongue, Tdlina garyadia^
scrape it very carefully, dipping it continually in the water till nothing remains but the fine
fibres of tho inner coat. Being thus prepared in the afternoon, tliey are spread out upon
plantain leaves in the evening ; and in this part of the work there appears to be some difficulty,
as the mistress of the family always superintends the doing of it : they are placed in lengths of
about eleven or twelve yards, one by the side of another, till they are about a foot broad, and
two or three layers are also laid one ^'ponthe other : care is taken tliat the cloth shall be in all
parts of an equal thickness, so that if the bark happens to be tliinner in any particular part
of one I-.yer than the rest, a piece that is somewhat thicker is pir^-'id out to Le laid over it
in the next. In this state it remains till the morning, when gre.. part of the water which
it contained when it was laid out, is either drained off or evaporated, and the several fibres
adhere together, so as that the whole may be raised from the ground in one piece.

CLOTII-DFATINC. MALLET.

July, 17C9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

It is then taken away, and laid upon the smooth side v'^f a long piece of wood prepared for
the purpose, and beaten by the women servants with instruments about a foot long and three
inches thick, made of a hard wood whicli they call Etoa. The shape of this instrument is not
unlike a square razor-strop, only that the handle is longer, and each of its four sides or faces
is marked, lengthways, with small grooves or furrows, of different degrees of fineness ; those
on one side being of a width and depth sufllicicnt to receive a small packthread, and the others
finer in a regular gradation, so that the last are not more than equal to sewing-silk. They
beat it first with the coarsest side of this mallet, keeping time like our smiths ; it spreads
very fast under the strokes, chiefly, however, in the breadth, and the groo"C3 in the mallet
mark it with the appearance of threads ; it is successively beaten with the other sides, last
with the finest, and is then fit for use. Sometimes, however, it is made still thinner, by
beating it with the finest side of the mallet, after it has been several times doubled ; it is then
called Hoboo, and is almost as thin as a muslin. It becomes very white by being bleached
in the air, but is made still whiter and softer by being washed and beaten again after it has
been worn.

SPRCIMRNB OF CLOTH.

Of this cloth there are several sorts, of different degrees of fineness, in proportion as it is
more or less beaten without being doubled. The other cloth also differs in proportion as it
is beaten ; but they differ from each other in consequence of the different materials of which
they are made. The bark of the bread-fruit is not taken till the trees are considerably longer
and thicker than those of the fig ; the process afterwards is the same.

When cloth is to be washed after it has been worn, it is taken down to the brook, and left
to soak, being kept fast to the bottom, as at first, by a stone ; it is then gently wrung or
squeezed ; and sometimes several pieces of it are laid one upon another, and beaten together
with the coarsest side of the mallet, and they sire then equal in thickness to broad-cloth, and
much more soft and agreeable to the touch after they have been a little while in use, though
when they come immediately from the mallet they feel as if they had been starched. This
cloth sometimes breaks in the beating, but is easily repaired by pasting on a patch with a
gluten that is prepared from the root of the Pea, which is done so nicely that it cannot be
discovered. The women also etnploy themselves in removing blemishes of every kind, as our
ladies do in needlework or knotting ; sometimes, when their work is intended to be very
fine, they will paste an entire covering of hoboo over the whole. The principal excellences
of this cloth are its coolness and softness ; and its imperfections, its being pervious to water
like paper, and almost as easily torn.

The colours with which they dye this cloth arc principally red and yellow. The red is
exceedingly beautiful, and I may venture to say a brighter and more delicate colour than

'I'MJI

m:I '

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 17C9.

a i

any we have in Europe ; that which approaches nearest is our full scarlet ; and the best
imitation which Mr. Banks's natural-history painter could produce, was by a mixture of
vermilion and carmine. The yellow is also a bright colour, but we have many as good.
The red colour is produced by the mixture of the juices of two vegetables, neither of which
separately has the least tendency to that hue. One is a species of fig, called here matte,
and the otlier the Curdia Sel/istina, or ctoti; of the fig the fruit is used, and of the Cordia,
the leavt'S.

The fruit of the fig is about as big as a Rounceval pea, or very small gooseberry; and each
of them, upon breaking off the stalk very close, produces one drop of a milky liquor, resem-
bling the juice of our figs, of which the tree is indeed a species. This liquor the women
collect into a small quantity of cocoa-nut water : to prepare a gill of cocoa-nut water will
require between three and four quarts of these little figs. When a suflicient quantity is
prepared, the leaves of the Eton are well wetted in it, and then laid uiton a plantain-leaf,
where they arc turned about till they become more and more flaccid ; and then they are
gently squeezed, gradually increasing the pressure, but so as not to break them. As the
flaccidity increases, and they become spongy, they are supplied with more of tlie liquor ; in
about five minutes the colour begins to appear upon the veins of the leaves ; and in about
ten, or a little more, they are perfectly saturated with it. They are then squeezed
with as much force as can be applied, and the liquor strained at the same time that it is
expressed.

For this purpose, the boys prepare a large quantity of the ]\[oo, by drawing it between
their teeth, or two little sticks, till it is freed from the green b.ark anJ the branny substance
that lies imder it, and a thin web of the fibres only remains ; in this the leaves of the etou
are enveloped, and through these the juice which they contain is strained as it is forced out.
As the leaves arc not succulent, little more juice is pressed out of them than they have
imbibed ; when they have been once emptied, they are filled again, and again pressed, till
the quality which tinctures the liquor as it passes through them is exhausted ; tiiey are then
thrown away ; but the jMoo, being deeply stained with the colour, is preserved as a brush to
lay the dye upon the cloth. The expressed liquor is always received into small cups made
of the plantain leaf; whether from a notion that it has any quality favourable to the colour,
or from the facility witli which it is procured, and the convenience of small vessels to distri-
bute it among the artificers, I do not know.

Of the thin cloth they seldom dye more than the edges, but the thick cloth is coloured
through the whole surface ; the liquor is, indeed, used rather as a pigment than a dye, for a
coat of it is laid upon one side only with the fibres of the Moo ; and though I have seen of
the thin clotli tliat has appeared to have been soaked in the liquor, the colour has not had the
same richness and lustre as when it has been applied in the other manner.

Though the leaf of the Etou is generally used in tliis process, and probably produces the
finest colour, yet the juice of the figs will produce a red by a mixture with the species of
Toumefortia, which they call Taheinoo, the Pohuc, the Eiirhe, or Coneolviihis hrasUietisis,
and a species of Solanum, called Ebooa; from the use of these different plants, or from
different proportions of the materials, many varieties are observable in the colours of their
cloth, some of which are conspicuously superior to others. The beauty, however, of the best
is not permanent ; but it is probable that some method might be found to fix it, if proper
experiments were made ; and, perhaps, to search for laten' qualities, which may be brought
out by the mixture of one vegetable juice with another, would not be an unprofitable
employment. Our present most valuable dyes afford suflicient encouragement to the
attempt ; for by the mere inspection of indigo, woad, dyer's-weed, and most of the leaves
which are used for the like purposes, the colours which they yield could never be discovered.
Of this Indian red I shall only add, that the women who have been employed in preparing
or using it, carefully preserve the colour upon their fingers and nails, where it appears in its
utmost beauty as a great ornament.

The yellow is made of the bark of the root of the Mormda citrl/olia, called Nona,
by scraping and infusing it in water ; after standing some time, the water is strained and
used as a dye, the cloth being dipped into it. The Morinda, of which this is a species, seems

17C9.

Jii,Y, 1760.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

J)3

seen of
, had the

uces the
ipecics of
mlietisis,
or from
of their
the hest

proper
)roiight
rofitablo

to the
le leaves
covered.

Nono,
ncd and
8, seems

to be a good subject for examination with a view to dyeing. lirown, in his History of
Jamaica, mentions three si>ccii'8 of it, which lie says are used to dye brown ; and Rumphius
says of the liancuda miflmtl/otia, whicli is nearly allied to our Nono, th.it it is used by the
inhabitants of the East Indian islands as a fixing drug for red colours, with which it parti-
cularly agrees. The inhabitants of this island also dyo yellow with the fruit of the Tamanu,
but how the colour is extracted we had no opportunity to discover. They have also a
projiaration with which they dye brown and black ; but these colours arc so indifferent, that
the method of preparing them did not excite our curiosity.

Another considerable manufacture is matting of various kinds ; some of which is finer
and better, in every respect, than any we have in Europe : the coarser sort serves them
to sleep upon, and the finer to wear in wet weather. With the fine, of which there arc
also two sorts, much pains is taken, especially with that made of the bark of the Poerou,
the Hibiscus tiliaceiis of Linna}us, some of which is as fine as a coarse cloth ; the other
sort, which is still more beautiful, they call mnnc ; it is white, glossy, and shining, and
is made of the leaves of their ir/iarrou, a species of the Panduutis, of which we had
no opportunity to see either the flowers or fruit : tliey have other mats, — or as they call
them, HtocrtJ, — to sit or to sleep upon, which are formed of a great variety of rushes and
grass, and which they make, as they do everything else that is plaited, with amazing facility
and despatch.

They are also very dexterous in making basket and wicker work ; their baskets arc of a
thousand different patterns, many of them exceedingly neat ; and the making them is an
art that every one practises,

both men Jind women : they - -_^^

ni.ake occasional baskets and
panniers of the cocoa-nut leaf
in a few minutes ; and the
women who visited us early in
a morning used to send, as soon
.as the sun was high, for a few
of the leaves, of which they
made little bonnets to shade f
their faces, at so small an ex- '
penso of time and trouble, that .
when the sun was again low
in the evening, they used to
throw them away. These
bonnets, however, did not
cover the head, but consisted
only of a band that went round it, and a shade that projected from l;ie forehead.

Of the bark of the Poerou they make ropes and lines, from the thickness of an inch to
the size of a small packthread : with these they make nets for fishing : of the fibres of the
cocoa-nut they make thread for fastening together the several parts of their canoes, and belts,
cither round or flat, twisted or plaited ; and of the bark of the Erotca, a kind of nettle which
grows in the mountains, and is therefore rather scarce, they make the best fi.shing-lines in the
world : with these they hold the strongest and most active fish, such as bonetas and albicores,
which would snap our strongest silk lines in a minute, though they are twice as thick.
They make also a kind of seine, of a coarse broivd grass, the blades of which are like flags ;
these they twist and tie together in a loose manner, till the net, which is about as wide as a
large sack, is from sixty to eighty fathoms long : this they haul in shoal smooth water, and its
own weight keeps it so close to the ground, that scarcely a single fish can escape.

In every expedient, indeed, for taking fish, they arc exceedirgly ingenious ; they make
harpoons of cane, and point them with hard wood, whicl. in their hands strike fish more
cflectnally than those which arc headed wiih iron can do in ours, setting aside the advantage
of oiirs being fastened to a line, so that the fish is secured if the hook takes place, though it
does not mortally wound him.

■■^^i-^'Htifiir^

SPKCIMKNS OF DASKET-noRK.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 17G9.

Of fish-hooks they have two sorts, admirably adapted in their construction as well to the
purpose they are to answer as to the materials of which they are made. One of these, which
they call leittee-tciltee, is used for towing. The shank is made of mother-of-pearl, the most
glossy that can be gut : the inside, which is naturally the brightest, is put behind. To these
hooks a tuft of white dog's or hog''8 hair is fixed, so as somewhat to resemble the tail of a
fish ; these implements, therefore, are both hook and bait, and are used with a rod of
bamboo, and line of erotca. The fisher, to secure his success, watches the fliglit of the birds
which constantly attend the bonetas when they swim in shoals, by which he directs his
canoe, and when he has the advantage of tlicse guides, he seldom returns without
a prize.

The other kind of hook is also made of mother-of-pearl, or some other hard shell : they
cannot make them bearded like our hooks ; but to effect the same purpose, they make the
point turn inwards. Tlicse are made of all sizes, and used to catch various kinds of fish
witii great success. Tlie manner of making them is very simple, and every fisherman is his
own artificer : the shell is first cut into square pieces by the edge of another shell, and
wrought into a form corresponding with the outline of the hook by pieces of coral, which
are sufiiciently rough to perform tlic office of a file ; a hole is then bored in the middle ; the
drill being no other than the first stone they pick up that has a sharp comer : this they fix
into the end of a piece of bamboo, and turn it between the hands like a chocolate-mill ; when
the shell is perforated and the hole sufficiently wide, a small file of coral ia introduced, by the
application of which the hook is in a short time completed, few costing the artificer more
time than a quarter of an hour.

iJi-

;:u

:, ''^.\

FISIIING-HU0K8, NF.T, AND HARPOONS.

Of their masonry, carving, and architecture, the reader has already r-rmed some idea
from the account that has been given of the Morais, or repositories of the dead ; the other
most important article of building and carving is their boats ; and, perhaps, to fabricate
one of their principal vessels with their tools is as great a work as to build a British man-
of-war with ours. They have an adze of stone ; a chisel or gouge of bone, generally that
of a man's arm between the wrist and elbow ; a rasp of coral ; and the skin of a sting-ray,
with coral sand, as a file or polisher. This is a complete catalogue of their tools ; and
with these they build houses, construct canoes, hew stone, and fell, cleave, carve, and
polish timber.

The stone which makes the blade of their adzes is a kind of basaltes, of a blackish or
grey colour, not very hard, but of considerable toughness : they are formed of different

July, 17C9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Rniip mnilo of

FiaU-skin.

Chisel.

Knife.

File.

Mallot.

Bizps: some, tliat are in-
tended for felling, weigh
from six to ei<:;ht pounds ;
others, that arc used for
carving, not more than so
many ounces ; hut it is
necessary to sharpen hotli
almost every minute ; for
which purpose a stono
and a cocoa-nut shell full
of water are always at
hand.

Their greatest exploit,
to which these tools arc
less equal than to any
other, is felling a tree :

,,..11 TOOLS.

this requires many nanus,
and the constant lahour

of several days. When it is down, they split it with the grain into planks from
three to four inches thick, the whole length and hreadth of the tree, many of which
are eight feet in the girth, and forty to the branches, nearly of the same thickness throughout.
The tree generally used is, in their language, called avie, the stem of which is tall and
straight ; though some of the smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit tree, which is a
light, spongy wood, and easily wrought. They smooth the plank very expeditiously and
dexterously with their adzes, and can t.ake off a thin coat from a whole plank without
missing a stroke. As they have not the art of warping a plank, every part of the canoe,
whether hollow or flat, is shaped by hand.

Lnrgc Stone Adze.

Toothed Adze-head.

Small Stone Adze.

Small -toothed Adze.

The canoes, or boats, which are used by the inhabitants of this and the neighbouring islands,
may be divided into two general classes ; one of which they call irahahs, the other pahiet.
The Ivahah is used for short excursions to sea, and is wall- sided and flat-bottomed; the
Pahic, for longer voyages, and is bow-sided and sharp-bottomed. The Ivahas are all of the

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jl I,Y, KfiO.

.1' i'

same figure, but of dlflfercnt sizes, and iipcd for different purposes : their length is from
seventy-two feet to ten, but the breadth is by no means in ]>roportion ; for those of ten
feet are about a foot wide, and those of more than seventy arc scarcely two. There is the
fighting Ivahah, the fishing Ivahah, and tlio travelling Ivahah — for some of these go from
one island to another. The fighting Ivahah is by far the longest, and the head and stern
arc considerably raised above tlie body, in a semicircular form ; particularly the stern, which
is sometimes seventeen or eighteen feet high, though the boat itself is scarcely three. These
never go to sea single, but arc fastened together, side by side, at the distance of about three
feet, by strong poles of wood, which are laid across them and lashed to the gunwales. Upon
these, in the fore part, a stage or platform is raised, about ten or t wel ve feet long, and somewhat
wider than the boats, whicli is supported by pillars about six feet high : upon this stage
stand the fighting men, whose missile weapons are slings and spears ; for, among other
singularities in the manners of these people, their bows and arrows are used only for
diversion, as we throw quoits : below these stages sit the rowers, who receive from them
those that are wounded, and furnish fresh men to ascend in their room. Some of these
have a platform of bamboos, or other light wood, through their whole length, and consider-
ably broader, by means of which they will carry a great number of men ; but we saw only
one fitted in this manner.

The fishing Ivahahs vary in length from about forty feet to the smallest size,
which is about ten ; all that are of the length of twenty-five feet and upwards, of
whatever sort, occasionally carry sail. The travelling Ivahah is always double, and
furnished with a small neat house, about five or six feet broad, and six or seven feet
long, which is fastened upon tlie forc-jiart for the convenience of the principal people,
wlio sit in them by day, and sleep in them at night. The fishing Ivahahs arc some-
times joined together, and have a house on board ; but this is not common. Those
which are shorter than five-and-twenty feet seldom or never carry sail ; and though the
stern rises about four or five feet, have a flat head and a board that projects forward
about four feet.

Tiic Pabie is also of different sizes, from sixty to thirty feet long ; but, like the Ivahah,
is very narrow. One that I measured was fifty-one feet long, and only one foot and a half
wide at the top. In the widest part it was about three feet ; and this is the general
proportion. It does not, however, widen by a gradual swell ; but the sides being straight
and parallel for a little way below the gunwale, it swells abruptly, and draws to a ridge at
the bottom ; so that a transverse section of it has somewhat the appearance of the mark
upon cards called a spade, the whole being much wider in proportion to its length. These,
like the largest Ivahahs, are used for fighting, but principally for long voyages. The
fighting Paliic, which is the largest, is fitted with the stage or platform, whicli is propor-
tionably larger than those of the Ivahah, as their form enables them to sustain a much
greater weight. Those that are used for sailing are generally double ; and the middle size
are said to be the best sea-boats. They are sometimes out a month together, going from
island to island ; and sometimes, as we were credibly informed, they are a fortnight or
twenty days at sea, and could keep it longer if they had more stowage for provisions, and
conveniences to hold fresh water.

AVhen any of these boats carry sail single, they make use of a log of wood, which is
fastened to the end of two poles that lie across the vessel, and project from six to ten feet,
according to the size of the vessel, beyond its side; somewhat like what is used by the flying
proa of the Ladrone Islands, and called, in the account of Lord Anson's Voyage, an outrigger.
To this outrigger the shrouds arc fastened, and it is essentially necessary in trimming the
boat when it blows fresh.

Some of them have one mast, and some two ; they are made of a single stick, and when
the length of a canoe is thirty feet, that of the mast is somewhat less than five-and-twenty ;
it ia fixed to a frame that is above the canoe, and receives a sail of matting about one-third
longer than itself : the sail is pointed at the top, square at the bottom, and curved at the
side ; somewhat resembling what we call a shoulder-of-mutton sail, and used for boats

half

iropor-
a much
die size
g from
light or
ans, and

hich is
ten feet,
10 flying

trigger.

ling the

d wlicn
wcnty ;
■nc-third
i at the
r boats

Jui.Y.lTfi!). COOKS FIRST VOYAOK HOUND THE WOULD. OT

l)fl()ngiii!T to men of war : it is i)liitod in a frame of wood, wliicli surroirnds it on every side,
and has no contrivance eitlier for reefing or furling ; so that, if either should heeome necessary,
it must he cut awav. which, Iiowevcr, in these equal climates, can seldom hapjun. At tlic
top of the mast are Histened ornaments of featliers, which are i)Iaced inclining ohliipiely
forwards. The oars or paddles that are used witli these boats, have a long handle and a
flat blade, not unlike a baker's peel. Of these every person in the boat lias one, except
those that sit nnhr the awning; and they push her forward with them at a good rate.
Tlieso boats, however, admit so much water at the scams, that one person at least is
continually employed in throwing it out. T!ic only thing in wliicli they excel is landing,
and putting ofV from the shore in a surf; by their great length and high sterns they land
dry, when our boats could scarcely land at all ; and iiave the same advantages in putting
oft' by the height of the iiead.

The Ivahalis arc the only boats that are used by the inhabitants of Otaheite ; but wo saw
several Pahies that came from other islands. Of one of these I shall give the exact
dimensions from a careful admeasurement, and then partieulariy describe the manner iu
which they arc built.

Ft. In.
Extreme Iciv'.li from stem to slcrn, lint reckoning the bending lip of citlicr . . -tl

Urcailili in l!ie clear of tlic tup forward ' " ^ ^

Breadth in llie midshii>8 ....... .... 1 u

Hrcadtli aft 13

In tlic biljie forwaid .....•■••••""

In the midships . . . . . . • • • • ..211

Aft 2 9

Depth in tlic midships . . . . • . ■ • • • ...» 1

Height from tlic ground on wliicli she stood . . . • • .36

Height of her head from tlic ground, without the figure . . . • ..44

Height of the figure •• 1 '

Height of the stern from the ground . . . 8 9

Height of the figure ........... 2

To illustrate my description of the manner in which these

vessels are built, it will be necessary to refer to the figure ; *^ '■"

in which a a is the first scam, b h the second, and c c the .
third.

The first stage or keel, under a a, is made of a tree hollowed ^ — x\ y/- a

out like a trough ; for which the longest trees are chosen that
can be got, so that there are never mon; than three in the whole

length : the next stage under b b, is formed of straight plank, about four feet long,
fifteen inches broad, and two inches thick : the third stage imder c r, is, like the bottom,
made of trunks, hollowed into its bilging form ; the last is also cut out of trunks, so that
the moulding is of one piece with the upright. To form these parts separately, without
saw, plane, cliisel, or any other iron tool, may well be thought no easy task ; but the great
difliculty is to join them together. When all the parts are prepared the keel is laid upon
blocks, and the planks, being supported by stanchions, arc sewed or clamped together with
strong thongs of plaiting, which are passed several times through holes that arc bored with
a gouge or auger of bone, that has been described already ; and the nicety with which this
is done may be inferred from their being sufficiently water-tight for use without caulking.
As the plaiting soon rots in the water, it is renev/ed at least once a year ; in order to which
the vessel is taken entirely to pieces. The head and stern are rude with respect to tho
design ; but very neatly finished, and polished to tho highest degree.

These Pahies are kept with great care in a kind of house built on purpose for their reception ;
the houses are formed of poles set upright in the ground, the tops of which arc drawn
towards each other, and fastened together with their strongest cord, so as to form a kind of
Gothic arch, which is completely thatched quite to tho ground, being open only at the ends ;
th(>y arc sometimes fifty or sixty paces long.

As connected with the navigation of these people, I shall mention their wonderful sagacity
in foretelling the weather, at least the quarter from which the wind shall blow at a future

((K)KS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Ji'i.v, 17C9.

time ; tlicy have several ways of doing tliis, of wliicli however I know but one. They say
that the ^Iilky-way is always curved laterally, hut sometimes in one directit)n and sometimes
in another ; and tli;it tliis curvature is the effect of its being already acted upon by the wind,
and its hollow j)art tliereforo towards it ; so tliat if the same curvature continues a nipht, a
correspondinf; wind certainly blows the next day. Of their rules I shall not pretend to
judge ; but I know that, by whatever means, they can predict the weather, at least tiio
wind, with much greater certainty than we can. In their longer voyages they steer by tho
sun in tlie ilay, and in the night by tlie stars ; all of which tliey distingtiish separately by
names, and know in wiiat part of the heavens they will appear in any of the months during
which they are visible in their horizon ; they also know tho time of their annual appearing
and disappearing with more precision than will easily bo believed by a European astronomer.

^ji

ClIAPTEn XIX. — OP THE PIVISION OP TIME IN OTAITEITE NVMERATION, COMri'TATION OP

DISTANCE, LANGTAfiE, DIsKASES, DISPOSAL OP THE DEAD, IlELIOION, WAH, WEAPONS,

AND GOVEUNMENT WITH SOME GENERAL OUSEIIVATIONS FOB THE ISE OF FUTIHB

NAVIGATORS.

"We were not .able to acquire a pefect idea of their method of dividing time ; but observed,
that in speaking of it, either past or to come, they never used any term but Malnma, which
signifies moon. Of these moons they count thirteen, and then begin again ; which is a
demonstration that they have a notion of tie solar /ear : but how they compute their
months so that thirteen of them shall be commensurate with the year, we conld not discover;
for they say that each montli has twenty-nine days, including one in which the moon is not
visible. They have names for them separately, and have frequently told us the fruits that
would be in season, and tho weather that would i»revail, in each of them ; and they have,
indeed, a name for them collectively, though they use it only when they speak of tho
mysteries of their religion. Every day is subdivided into twelve parts, each of two hours,
of which six belong to the day, and six to the night. At these divisions they guess pretty
nearly by the height of the sun while ho is above the horizon ; but there are few of them
that can guess at them, when he is below it, by the stars.

In numeration they proceed from one to ten, the number of fingers on both hands ; and
though they have for each number a different name, they generally take hold of their fingers
one by one, shifting from one hand to tho other till they come to the number they want to
express. And in other instances, we observed that, when they were conversing with each
other, they joined signs to their words, which were so expressive that a stranger might easily
apprehend their meaning.

In counting from ten they repeat the name of that number, and add the word more; ten,
and one more, is eleven ; ten, and two more, twelve : and so of the rest, as we say onc-and-
twenty, two-and-twcnty. Wlien they come to ten and ten more, they have a new
denomination, as we say a score ; and by these scores they count till they get ten of them,
when they have a denomination for two hundred ; and we never could discover that they
had any denomination to express a greater number : neither, indeed, do they seem to want
.any; for ten of these amount to two thousand, a greater number than they can ever apply.

In measuring distance they are much more deficient than in computing numbers, having
but one term, which answers to fathom ; when they speak of distances from place to place,
they express it, like the Asiatics, by the time that is required to pass it.

Their language is soft and melodious ; it abounds with vowels, .and wo easily learnt to
pronounce it : but found it exceedingly difficult to teach them to pronounce a single word
of ours ; probably not only from its abounding in consonants, but from some peculiarity in
its structure ; for Spanish and Italian words, if ending in a vowel, they pronounced with
great facility. Whctlier it is copious, we were not stifficiently acquainted with it to know ;
but it is certainly very imperfect, For it is almost totally without inflexion, both of nouns
and verbs. Few of the nouns have more than one case, and few of the verbs more than

Jri.v, 17(10.

COOK'S FIRST VOYACH UOllN'D TIIK M'OULFX

'.tn

le a new
I of thcin,

that tlioy
to want

T apply.

), having

I to place,

learnt to
^le word
Jiarity in
ccd with
know ;
if nouns
lore than

one tense; yet we found no fjroat dilliculty in making oursclvca mutually understood,
however strange it may appear in speculation *.

They have, iiowever, certain iij/i.m, which, though hut few in nimiher, are very useful to
them, and puzzled us extremely. One nsks another, lltinr hca? Where are yon going ?"
The other answers, Irti/ihicru, " To my wives ;" upi.n wiiieh the first, rei)eating the answer
interrogatively, "To your wives T' is answend, lraliUh't\ir(t ; " Ves, I am going to my
wivi!s." Here the sultixaovf and eirn save several words to both parties.

I have inserted a few of their words, from which, j)erliaps, some idea may bo f»)rnied of
the language.

I'lipo ....
Alicwh . ...

Hnoiiroii ....
Oiitou ....
Nitiro ....
Ariero ....
Mi'ii-ounii . . .
Tiiirrali(« ....
Tuniiiu . .
Tiiuli ....

Oiimn ....
Kii ....

Oboi. ....
Kciim ....
Vaco ....
Oporctna

Man lieu w . . •

Micu ....

. . Ihe head.

Tniitii- .

, ,

the biittoelf'i.

. Ihn nose.

Iloiiiiliuh .

. the thi:/hs.

. , the hair.

A via

the leyi.

• Ihr mouth.

'I'aima

Ihe fee/.

. . the teeth.

l)0(>,1

. .

a /((»/.

. the toiij/iir.

Moa

(1 foirl.

. . the heard.

Kiiico

, ,

a dog.

. Ihe throat.

I'jiie-ciiic-

. . .

iron.

the shoulders.

Onroo . .

.hrcad-fruil.

. the back.

1 [caioo

. coeoa-iiiils.

. the l)rea.>it.

.Mill .

. banana.*.

the tiipples.

i'uc

hi ads.

. the belly.

I'oo Diatawowwc

pearl.

. the arm.

Alioii

, .

. a garment.

wild plantains.

Avco

. a fn

it like applis.

. Ihe hand.

Aheo

. anothei

like ch'sniils.

. the fingers.

Kwlinrro .

. . .1 house.

. the nails.

' Wliciiiiua

•

a high island.

* Tlio numerous islamls of the I'acinc arc inlialiitcd
liy two ilistinct races of men ; tlio one with briglit and
glnssyjiair, skin of n light copper colour, and the coun-
tenance resembling that of the Malays, ^^ith whom they
are, by most modern inquirers, supposed to bo allicil : —
the other of an herculean fr.inie, black skin, and woolly
or rather crisped hair, whoso origiu is suppiitod to be the
same with that of the Papuan or Negro tribes who are
found scattered in most nf the islands of the Kastern
Archipelago, whatever that may be, a point much in
debatu among the inquirers into the nature of the varieties
of tlie human species.

The Negro and the Malay races arc not, however,
found dwelling together in the South-Sea Islands. Mr.
M'illinms ( " Missionary Enterprises in the Houth-Sea
Islands," p. .SOI) says that the copper-coloured people
" inhabit Eastern Polynesia, which includes the Sand-
tiiich, the Mnrquesan, the Paumotti, the Tahitian, the
Socieig, the Austral, the Hervey, the Navigator's, the
Friendly Islands, New Zealand, and all the smaller
islands in their respective vicinities ; while the Polynesian
negro is found from the Fijis to the coast of New Holland,
a s|)acc, which, for the sake of distinction, may be called
Western Polynesia.'*

Missionary enterprise has hitherto been chiefly confined
to the copper-coloui-ed natives, and comparatively little is
known of the character or language of the Polynesian
negroes. Mr. Williams considers the language of all the
islands of Eastern Polynesia to bo the same, in which he
distinguishes eight distinct dialects, of which he gives
various specimens.

The language is much more complete than it appeared
to Captain Cook and his companions. Mr. Williams
remarks, *' that a language spoken by savages should 1)6
supposed to bo defective iii many respects, could not create
surprise ; but the fact is, contrary to all wo might have
anticipated, that the Polynesian dialects arc remarkably
rich, admit of a great variety of phraseology, aboimd in
terms of peculiar nicety, and are spoken with strict con-
formity to the most precise grammatical principles. • • •

The Polynesians employ three numbers, the singular, tho
dual, and the plural, with which the inflections of their
verbs agree. Their pronouns are beautifully complete,
having several remarkable and v„;uahlo distinctions
unknown to us. An instance is found in what we may
term the inclusive and exclusive pronouns : for example,
in English wo say, • It is lime for us to go ;' and the
e.\pression may or may not include the person addrcs'ed.
Now, in the Polynesian di.ilects, there arc two pronouns
which mark this dilTcrencc, maton and talon. If the
jirrson spoken to is one of the party goiuj;, tlie talon
would be used ; if not, the ma/o«. • • • There is like-
wise a causative verb, as tiin/rtH, fear; haa matati, Ut
make afraid ; matau hia, to he feared ; haa malau hia,
to cause to be feared. The ilistiiietion of sounds, also, is
very delicate, and has occasionally placed the n)issionai y
in rather awkward eircumslanccs. On one occasion an
excellent brother was preaching for me, and happening to
aspirate a word which ought not to be aspirated, ho
addressed the people as beloved savages, instead of beloved
brethren. Notwithstanding this, no person speaks incor-
rectly, and wc never hear such violations of grammar and
pronunciation as are common in England, There are hut
fourteen or fifteen letters in any of the dialects of this
language ; and as wc spell ihe word precisely as it is pro-
nounced, no dilliculty is experienced in teaching the chil-
dren spelling. All we have to do is to instruct them in
tho sound of the letters, and when these are acquired,
they spell the longest words with case."

The present is not tho pliicc, even did space permit, for
an inquiry into the origin of the South-sea Islaiulers, or
an exitmiiuition of tho evidence tending to confirm (heir
Malay extraction. On these points we would refer our
readers to Williams's " Missionary Enterprises, " ch.ip. 29 ;
'•Ellis's Polynesian Researches," vol. ii., chap. 2; and
generally to the remarks on the same subject scattered
throughout the " Surveying Voyages of the Adventure
and the Beagle;" and particulaily the 27th chapter of tho
tccond voliniic, where may be found Captain l-'iirioy's
remarks on tlie " migrations of the lininnu race." — Ko,

'/I

10f»

COOK'S* FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

JiLV, 1700.

Moiii

'I'olll

Ai'vo
A en

Miio

Tmii .

Iliirii-liiini

I'Ir'.ow .

A mil

Tii.lc .

Iliiri'O

Ktiiiiiinoo

Alia

Kilicno

OiiDpn

Aviyiio

A-ft .

Mnnnu

Mora

MlltlOVV

Toiiia
Mow

Miilii-innlii
Muttna .
Kiipca
Malinnnn .
Miilnnia
Wlicttii .

, a low ialniiil.

. . blond.

, , bone.

. . Jleth.

. . . /«/.

, Iran.

. . hair.

. n tree.

. a branch.

ajiiiirer.

. ' fiuil.

the stem.

. . the root.

herbnceoiix plants,

a iiijifiin.

. a imro'/uet.

. another sjiecies.

. a bird.

, . a duck.

ajish-hnok.

a rope.

a shark.

. n djlpliin,

. a Jhhing-rnd.

, . a net.

the .sun.

. the moon.

a star.

Wlictlii-cui>lic

Krai

Kiilta

Mill

Klin

A .

Inia

I'arec

Piirori'o

I'ia

Tlninliali

Mania

I'uto

Ro. .

Ni'lieniir

!Miila-inala .

WImiinn

Iliiirc

Arrca . .

Kiiolio

Kolie riilio

Maa

liioo

Kto .

Warriilo

Worriililo .

Teparahi

(I comet.

the ski/.

a clonil.

good.

bad.

ye$.

no,

. , ^I'lli/.

hnnqri).

'/nil.

. hearif,

light.

. short.

tall.

siri-el,

, . bitli-r.

to go far.

. to go.

to stay.

, to remain.

, to be tired,

to ent.

to drink,

to understand.

. , to steal.

, to be angrg.

, , to beat.

i '

;• !i

Among people whose food is so simple, and v.!io in general .ire seldom drunk, it is scarcely
necc'ss.ary to 8.ay, tli.at there arc but few diseases ; wc saw no critical disease during our stay
upon tlio island, and but few inst.ances of sickness, which were accidental fits of the colic.
The natives, however, are .afflicted with erysipelas and cutaneous eruptions of the scaly kind,
very nearly approaching to a leprosy. Those in whom this distemper was far .adv.anced
lived in a state of seclusion from all society, each in a small house built u])on some unfre-
quented spot, where they were supplied with provisions : but whether they had .any hope
of i-elief, or Languished out the remainder of their lives in solitude and despair, we could not
learn. Wc observed also a few who had ulcers upon different parts of tiieir bodies, some
of which had a very virulent appearance ; yet tliey seemed not much to be regarded by
those who were afflicted with them, for they were left entirely without application even to
keep off the flies.

Where intemperance produces no diseases, there will bo no physicians by profession ; yet
yet where there is suffer.ance, there will alw.ays be attempts to relieve ; and where the cause
of the mischief and the remedy are alike unknown, these will naturally be directed by
superstition ; thus it happens, that in this country, and in all others which are not further
injured by luxury, or improved by knowledge, the management of the sick falls to the lot
of the priest. The method of cure that is i)ractised by the priests of Otiiheitc consists
chiefly of prayers and ceremonies. When he visits his patient ho repeats certain sentences,
which .appear to bo set forms lontrived for the occasion, and at the sjimc time plsiits the
leaves of the cocoa-nut into dih'orcnt figures very neatly; some of these he fastens to the
fingers and toes of the sick, ami often leaves behind him a few branches of the Thespecia
pojndnca, which they call E'm'ulho: these ceremonies .arc repeated till the patient recovers
or dies. If he recovers, they say the remedies cured him ; if he dies, they 8.ay the disease was
incurable ; in which perhaps they do not much differ from the custom of otlier countries.

If wc had judged of their skill in surgery from the dreadful scars which wo sometimes
saw, we should have supposed it to be much superior to the art, not only of their physicians,
but of ours. We saw one man whose face was almost entirely destroyed, his nose, including
the bone, was perfectly flat, and one cheek and one eye were so beaten in, that the hollow
would .almost receive a man's fist, yet no ulcer remained j and our companion, Tupia, h.ad
been pierced quite through his body by a spear, headed with the bone of the sting-ray, the
weapon having entered his back, and come out just under his breast ; but except in reducing

Jii.v, 1700.

COOK'S FIRST V()YA(JE UOL'NU THE MOULD.

101

lli^<l()cati()n3 ami fracturi's, tlie hest surgcitn can contriljuti' very littli? to tlio euro of a wouiul ;
tlio blood itsilf is tlio bist vulnerary liaNain, and wlieii the juiees of tlie body are pure, and
tlie patient is temperate, notiiinj,' more is necessary as ail aid to nature iii tlie euro of tlio
worst wound, tlian the keeping it clean.

Tlieir commerce with tlio inhabitants of Europe Iiao, however, already entailed upon
them that dreadful curse which avenged the inhumanities committed by the Spaniards in
America, tlio venereal disease. As it is certain that no European vessel besides our own,
except the Dolphin, and the two that were under the command of ^[ons. Dougaiiiville, ever
visited this island, it must have been brought cither by one of them or by us. That it waa
not l)rought by the Dolphin, Captain Wallis has demonstrated in the account of her voyagu
(vol. i., p. 323, 324), and nothing ia more certain than that when we arrived, it had iiiadu
most dreadful ravages in the island. One of oiir people contracted it within five days after
wo went on shore, and by tlio inquiries among the natives, which this occasioned, wo learnt,
when wo came to understand a little «)f their language, that it had been brought by the
vessels which had been there about fifteen months before us, and had lain on the east sido
of tlio island. They distinguished it by a name of the same import with rottciincua, but
of a more extensive signification, and described, in the most pathetic terms, the siitt'erings of
the first victims to its rage, and told us that it caused the hair and the nails to fall off, and
the flesh to rot from the bones : that it sjjread a universal terror and consternation among
tliem, 80 that the sick were abandoned by their nearest relations, Icbt the calamity should
spread by contagion, and left to perish alone in such misery as till then had never
been known among them. We had some reason, however, to hope that they had foun<l out
a specific to cure it : during our stay upon the island we saw none in whom it had inado
a great progress, and one who went from us infi.'cted returned after a short time in perfect
healili ; and by this it appeared either that the disease had cured itself, or that they wero
not unacquainted with the virtues of simples, nor implicit dupes to the superstitious follies
of their priests. We endeavoured to learn the medical qualities which they imputed to
their ])lants, but our knowledge of their language was too imperfect for us to succeed. If
■we could have learnt their specific for the venereal disease, if such they have, it would havo
been of great advantage to us, for when wo left the island it had been contracted by more
than half the people on board the ship.

It is impossible bui that, in relating incidents, many particulars with respect to tlio
customs, opinions, and works of these people should be anticipated ; to avoid re'/Ctition,
therefore, I shall only supply deficiencies. Of the manner of disjiosing of tlieir dead, miuU
has been said already. I must more explicitly observe, that there are two places in which
the dead are deposited ; one a kind of shed, where the flesh is suffered to putrify ; the other
an enclosure, with erections of stone, where the bones are afterwards buried. The sheds are
called TiPAi'OW, and the enclosures, Morat. The Morais are also places of worship.

As soon as a native of Otalieite is known to be dead, the house is filled with relations,
who deplore their loss, some by loud lamentations, and some by less clamorous but more
genuine expressions of grief. Those who are in the nearest degree of kindred, and are really
affected by the event, are silent ; the rest arc one moment uttering passionate exclamations
in a chorus, and the next laughing and talking without the least appearance of concern. In
this manner the remainder of the day on which they assemble is spent, and all the succeed-
ing night. On the next morning the body is shrouded in their cloth, and conveyed to the
sea-side upon a bier, which the bearers support upon their shoulders, attended by the priest,
who, having prayed over the body, repeats his sentences during the procession. When it
arrives at the water's-edge, it is set down upon the beach ; the priest renews his prayers,
and taking up some of the water in his hands, sprinkles it towards the body, but not upon
it. It is then carried back forty or fifty yards, and soon after brought again to the beach,
where the prayers and sprinkling arc repeated. It is thus removed backwards and forwards
several times ; and while these ceremonies have been performing, a house has been built, and
a small space of ground railed in. In the centre of this house, or Tupapow, posts are set up
to support the bier, which is at length conveyed thither, and placed upon it ; and here the
body remains to putrify till the flesh is wholly wasted from the bones.

«■«

10::

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

Jlly, 17C0.

Tlicsc Ijouscs of corni])tioii arc of a size ])r()portionc(l to the rank of the person whoso
body they are to contain ; those aUotted to the h)\vcr class are just suflicient to cover tlio
bier, and have no railing round them. The largest we L\er saw was eleven yards long, and
such a« these are ornamented according to the abilities and inclination of the surviving
kindred, who never fail to lay a profusion of good cloth about the body, and somciisnes

> 9

i-i!

I t

^'ii-'^/:^ •■

0TAUEI1E BIEK.

almost cover the outside of the house. Garlands of the fruit of the palm-nut, nx pandanuf,
and cocoa-leaves, twisted by the priests in mysterious knots, with a plant called by them
Kthee no Moral, which is particularly consecrated to funeral solemnities, are deposited about
tho place ; provision and water are also left at a little distance ; of which, and of other
decorations, a more particular description has been given already.

As soon as the body is deposited in the Tupapow,
the mourning is rene\ved. Tho women assenihle, and
are led to tho di.or by the nearest relation, who strikes
a shark's tooth several times into the crown of her
head : tho blood copiously follows, and is carefully
received upon pieces of linen, which are thrown under
the bier. The rest of the women follow this examj>le,
and the ceremony is repeated at the interv.''! of t\.()
or three days, as long as the zeal and sorrow of the
l)arties hold out. The tears also which are shed
upon these occasions are received upon pieces of
cloth, and offered us oblations to the dead : some of
the younger people cut off their hair, and that is
thrown under the bier with the other offering's. This
custom is founded upon a notion that tho soul of the
deceased, which they believe to exist in a separate
state, is lioverin^ about the placie where the body is
deposited ; that it observes the actions of the sur-
vivors, and is gratified by such testimonies of tluir
affection and grief. Two ov three days after these
ceremonies have been commenced by tho women,
during which tho men seem to be wholly insensible
of the'r loss, thev al.o begin to perform their part.

KINKIIAI.-OHFSS (IF Tlir M?AltF.>T RKLATIVK Ot
Tlir. UECKA8KI) PKIIHUN,

Jl'LY, l"fJJ).

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLIi.

101

Tlie nearest relations take it in turn to assume tlio dress, and perform the office, wliicli
have already been particularly described in the account of Tubourai Tamaide's having
acted as chief mourner to an old woman, his relation, who died while we were in the island.
One part of the ceremony, however, wliich accounts for th'. runninfif away of the pc^j.ie as
soon as this procession is in sight, has not been mentioned. The chief mourner carries in
liis hand a long flat sti( k, the edge of which is set witli shark's teeth, and in a frenzy, which
his grief is supposed to have inspired, he runs at all he sees ; and if any of them happen to
be overtaken, he strikes them most unmercifully with this indented cudgel, which cannot
fail to wound them in a dangerous manner.

These processions continue at certain intervals for five moons ; but arc less and less
frequent, by a gradual diminution, as the end of that time approaches. When it is expired,
what remains of the body is taken down from the bier, and the bones, having been scraped
and washed very clean, arc buried, according to the rank of the person, either within or
without a Morai. If the d'iceased was an Earce, or chief, liis skull is not buried with the
rest of the bones, but is wrapped up in fine cloth, and put in a kind of box made for that
purpose, which is also placed in tlie Morai. This coffer is called Eicharre no te Oivmetua,
the house of a teacher or master. After this the mourning ceases, except some of the women
continue to be really afflicted for the loss ; ai\d, in that case, they will sometimes suddenly
wound themselves with the shark's tooth wherever they happen to be. This, perliaps, will
account for the passion of grief in which Terapo wounded herself at the fort : some acci-
dental circumstance might forcibly revive the remcmliance of a friend or relation wliom slio
had lost, with a p. ngency of regret and te»;derness which forced a vent by tears, and
I rompted her to a repetition of the funeral rite".

The ceremonies, however, do not cease with the mourning ; prayers are still said by the
priest, who is well ])aid by the surviving relations, and offerings made at the Morai. Some
of the things which from time to time arc deposited there arc emblematical : a young
plantain represents the deceased, and the bunch of feathers the deity 'vho is invoked. Tiio
priest places himself over against the symbol of the god, accompanied by some of the
relations, who are furnished with a small offering, and repeats his orison in a set form,
consisting of scimrate sentences ; at the same time weaving the leaves of the cocoa-nut into
different forms, wiiich he afterwards deposits upon the ground where the bones have been
interred ; the deity is then addressed by a shrill screech, which is used only upon that
occasion. When the priest retires, the tuft of feathers is removed, and the provisions left
to putrify or be devoured by the rats.

Of the religion of these people, we were not able to acquire any clccW and consist jnt
knowledge : we found it, like the religion of most other countries, involved in mystery, and
pr'-'plexed with apparent inconsistencies. The religious language is also here, as it is in
Cliina, different from that which is used in common , so that Tupia, who took great pains
to instruct us, having no words to express his meaning which wc understood, gave us
lectures to very little purpose. What we learnt, In wevcr, I will relate with as much
perspicuity a.'i 1 can.

Nothing i.s more obvious to a rational being, however ignorant and stupid, tiian that the
universe and its various parts, as far as they fall under his notice, were produced by some
agent inconceivably more po\ -rful than himself; and nothing is more difficult to be conceived,
even by the most sagacious and knowing, than the production of them from nothing, which
among us is expressed by the word Creation. It is natural, therefore, as no Being apparently
capable of producing the universe is to be seen, that he should be supposed to reside in some
distant part of it, or to be in his nature invisible, and that ho should have originally produced
all that now exists in a manner similar to that in which nature is renovated by the succession
of one generation to another ; but the idea of procreation inchule^ in it that of tw j persons ;
and from the conjunction of two persons these people imagine cvcrythi'ig in the universe,
either originally or derivatively, to proceed.

The Supremo Doity, one of those two first beings, they call T iioATAiiiETOostoo, and tlio
other, whoiii they suppose * j have been a rock, Tepai'A. A daugliter of these was Tiarow.
MATATAYO, tlio year, or thirteen months collectively, which they never name but upou

104

COOK'S FIRST VQYAGE UOUXD THE U'ORLD.

Jli.v, 17<J0.

h ,1

!■]

this occasion, and s^lic, by the common father, produced tlio months, and tlie montlis, by
conjunction with each other, the days ; the stars they suppose partly to be the immediate
offspring of the first pair, and partly to have increased among themselves ; and they have
the same notion with respect to the different species of plants. Among other progeny of
Taroataihetoomoo and Tepapa, *hey suppose an inferior race of deities, whom they call
Eatuas. Two of tliese Eatuas, they say, at some remote period of time, inhabited the earth,
and were the parents of the first man. When this man, their common ancestor, was born,
they say that he was round like a ball, but that his mother, with great care, drew out his
limbs, and having at length moulded him into his present form, she called him Eotiie,
which signifies Jinishcd. That being prompted by the universal instinct to propagate his
kind, and being able to find no female but his mother, he begot upon her a daughter, "id
upon the daughter other daughters for several generations, before there was a son ; a son,
however, being at length born, he, by the assistance of Iiis sisters, peopled the world.

Besides their daughter Tettowmatatayo, the first progenitors of nature had a son, whom
they called Tane. Taroataihetoomoo, the supreme deity, they emphatically style the causer
of earthquakes ; but their prayers are more generally addressed to Tanc, whom they suppose
to take a greater part in the affairs of mankind.

Their subordinate deities, or Eatuas, which are numerous, are of both sexes : \\\q male
are worshipped by the men, and the female by the women ; and each have Morais to which
the other sex is not admitted, though they have also i\[orais common to both. Islcn perform
the office of priest to both sexes, but each sex has its priests, for those who officiate for one
sex do not officiate for the other. • They believe the imiriurtality of tb'' soi' •t least its
existence in a separate state, and that there are two situations of A\ 'vo' . i grees of
happiness, somowjiat analogous to our heaven and hell: the superior &;.iiai;t/ii they call
Tacinia terai, the other Tiahohoo. They do not, however, consider them as places of
reward and punishment, but as receptacles for different classes ; the first for their chiefs and
principal people, the other for those of inferior rank, for they do not suppose that their actions
licre in the least influence their future state, or indeed that they come under the cognizance
of their deities at all. Their religion, therefore, if it has no influence upon their mor^iS, is
at least disintercstid ; and their expressions of adoration and reverence, whether by words
or actions, arise only from a humble sense of their own inferiority, and the ineffable excellence
of divine perfection.

The character of the priest or Tahowa is hereditary : the class is numerous, and consists
of all ranks of people ; the chief, however, is generally tlie younger brother of a good family,
and is respected in a degree next to tlieii* kings. Of the little knowledge that is possessed in
tins country, the priests have the greatest share ; but it consists principally in an acquaintance
with the names and raJ'kt. of the different Eatua? or subordinate divinities, and the ojiiniona
concerning tlie or^In of things, wliieh have beer, traditionally preserved among the ordev in
detached sen^Liices, of which some will repeat an incredible number, though but very fr ^ oK
tlie words that .arc used in their common dialect occur in them. The priests, however, r'
superior to the rest of the people in the knowledge of navigation and n'jtionoiny ; and, inuec 1,
the name of Tahowa signifies nothing more than a man of kno''. ledge. As there are priests
of I' very class, they officiate only among that class to which they belong : the priest of the
inferior class is never called upon by those of superior rank, nor will the priest of the superior
rank officiate kw any of the inferior class.

Marriage in this island, as ai)peared to us, is nothing more than an agreement between
the man and woman, with which the ju'iest has no concern. Where it is contracted, it
appears to be pretty well kept, though sometimes the parties separate by mutual consent,
an' in tliat case a div(>rec takes place with as little trouble as the marriage.

15ut though the priesthood has laid the people under no tax for a nuptial bencdictior, hero
are two <)i)erations which it lias aj)propriated, and from which it derives con? liable
advantages. One is (dttoichi//, and the other circumcision, though neither of them h;'v > .iv
connexion with religion. Tlie tattowing has been described already. Circumcision lias
been adopted merely from motives of chaiiliiiess ; it ciinnot indeed properly be called
circumcision, because the j>rc/>iicc is not mutilated by a circular wound, but only slit through

\ 7

JiLY, 17C9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

priests
of the

the upper part to prevent its contracting over the iflans. As neither of these can he performed
by any but a priest, and as to be without cither is the greatest disgi-ace, they may be con-
sidered as a claim to surphce fees like our marriages and christenings, which arc cheerfully
and liberally paid, not according to any settled stipend, but the rank and abilities of the
parties or their friends.

Sl'EClMEN OF TATT0WIN6.

irou^h

The Morai, as has already been observed, is at once a burying-ground and a place of
worship, and in this particular our churches too much resemble it. The Indian, however,
approaches his Morai with a reserence and hiunility that disgrace the Christian, not because
he holds anything sacred that is there, but because he there worships an invisible divinity,
for whom, though he neither hopes for reward nor fears punishment at his hand, he altvays
expresses the profoundest homage and most humble adoration. I have already given a very
particular description both of the Morais and the altars that are placed near them. When
an Inditiii is about to worship at tlie Morai, or brings his ofiPering to tiie altar, he always
imcovcrs his body to the waist, and his looks and attitude arc such as sufficiently express a
corresponding disposition of mind.

It did not appear to us that these people are, in any instance, guilty of idolatry ; at least
they do not worship anything that is the work of their hands, nor any visible part of the
creation. This island, indeed, and the rest that lie near it, have a particular bird some a
heron, and others a kingfisher, to which they pay a peculiar regard, and concerning which
they have some superstitious notions with respect to good and bad fortune, as we liave of
the swallow and robin-redbreast, giving them the name of Eatua, and by no mean^ killing
or molesting them ; yet they never address a petition to them, or approacli thci"-. v.itli any
act of adoration.

Though I dare not assert that these people, to whom the art of >vriting, an.l consequently
tlic recording of laws, are utterly unknown, live undur a. regular form of government ; yet a
subordination is established among them, that greatly resembles the early state of every
nation in Europe under the feudal system, which secured liberty in the most licentious excess
to a few and entailed the most abject slavery upon the rest. Their orders are Earee rnkie,
which answers to king ; 7?<ijv<?, baron ; Manakouiii, xassal; and 7oh/o«, villain. Tiie Eareo
rahie, of which there are two in this island, one being the sovereign of each of the peninsulas
of which it consists, is treated with great respect by all ranks, but did not appear to us to bo
invested with so much power as was exercised by the Earces in their own districts ; nor indeed

IOC

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, llGO.

did we, as I liave before observed, once ace the sovereign of Obcreonoo while we were in the
island. The Earees are lords of one or more of the districts into which each of the peninsulas is
divided, of which there may be about one hundred in the whole island ; and tliey parcel out
their territories to the Alanahounies, who cultivate each his part which he holds under the
baron. The lowest class, called Toutons, seem to be nearly under the same circumstances as
the villains in feudal governments; these do all tlie laborious work ; they cultivate the land
under the Manahounies, who are only nominal cultivators for the lord, they fetch wood and
water, and, under the direction of the mistress of the family, dress the victuals : they also
catch the fish *.

Each of the Earees keeps a kind of court, and has a great number of attendants, chiefly the
younger brothers of their own tribe ; and among these some hold particular oflicos, but of
what nature exactly we could not tell. One was called the Eotea no FEaree, and another
the Whanno no rEaree, and these were frequently despatched to us with messages. Of sill
the courts of these Earees, that of Tootahah was the most splendid, as indeed might
reasonably be expected, because he administered the government for Outou, his nephew,
who was Earee ruhie of Obcreonoo, and lived upon his estate. The child of the baron or
Earee, as well as of the sovereign or Earee rahie, succeeds to the title and honours of the
father as soon as it is born ; so that a baron who was yesterday called Earee, and was
approached with the ceremony of lowering the garments, so as to uncover the upper part of
the body, is f yilnv if his wife was last night delivered of a child, reduced to the rank of a
private man, ..i', ^ of respect being transferred to the child, if it is suffered to live,

though tlie father , continues possessor and administrator of his estate : probably this
custom has its share, among other inducements, in forming the societies called Arreoy.

If a general attack happens to be made upon the island, every district under tlie command
of an Earee is obliged to furnish its proportion of soldiers for the common defence. The
number furnished by the princi|)al districts, which Tupia recollected, when added together,
amounted, as I have observed before, to six thousand six hundred .ind eighty. Upon such
occasions the united force of the whole island is commnnded in chief by the Earee rahie.
Private diflFerences between two Earees are decided by their own people, without at all
disturbing the general tranquillity.

Their weapons are slings, which they use with great dexterity, pikes headed with the
stings of sting-rays, and clubs, of about six or seven feet long, made of a very hard heavy
wood. Thus armed, they are said to fight with great obstinacy, which is the more likely

■4

* This account of tlie social condition of the inhubitants
of Tahiti is in the main correct, but differs in some par-
ticulars from that given by Mr. Ellis, in his Polynesian
Researches, vol. ii. p. 340, et seq. He describes the
Tarioiis classes as consisting, first, of the Hni arii, or
Royal family (including the Sovereign) and Nobility.
" This class, though not numerous, was considered the
most influential in tlie state. Being the highest in dignity
and rank, its elevation in the estimation of the people
was guarded mth extreme care ; and the individuals of
whom it was composed were exceedingly pertinacious of
their distinction, and jealous of the least degradation by
the admission of inferiors to their dignity." This, how-
ever, might be effected, but appears to have seldom if ever
taken place, except on occasion of a marriage between a
member of the Ilui arii and one of a lower clasE^, wlien
" by a variety of ceremonies peifomied at the temple, the
inferiority was supposed to be removed ;" but unless tliis
was done,all tlie offspring of such a marriage wereiii variably
destroyed. Tlie second rank, the Bue Haalira, (ornicd
the middle class in society ; being the most important body
in times of peace, and furnisiiing the strength of tlieir
armies in periods of war. Tiic Kaatinis were all landed
pronrictors, their consequence depending much upon the
extent of their possessions, wliicli they held not from the
king but fioni their ancestors. Thepet'.y raatiras "possessed
from twenty tu one hundred acres, and generally had more
than their necessities required. They resided on their own

lands, and inclosed so much as was necessary for their
support. Tliey were the most industrious class of the
community, working their own plantations, building their
own houses, manufacturing their o'»u cloth and mat*,
besides furnishing their articles for the king. The higher
class among the Raatiras were those who possessed large
tracts of land in one place, or a number of siiiiiller sections
in different parts. Some of them owned perhaps many
hundred acres, parts of which were cultivated by those
who lived in a state of dependence upon them, or by those
petty Raatiras who occupied their plantations on condition
of rendering military service to the proprietors and a por-
tion of the produce. These individuals were a valuable
class in the community, and constituted the aristocracy of
the country."

The next class was the Manahune, comprising all who
possessed no land. This class included independent fisher-
men and artisans ; but since llie population has been so
greatly diuiiiiished as it is at the present day, few of these
find it difficult to procure at least the occupancy of apiece
of land, and raise liiuiself to the rank of a Raalira. The
Ten-teu, or servants of the chiefs, men reduced from
poverty or want of skill in mechanical arts, which are
respected among them, fornied a second rank of Afanam
hnne; and the lowest class of all, the Ti-ti, or slaves taken
in battle, or seized as the spoil of the vanquished, were
also included under tlie same denomination. — Ed.

! ■

17G!)-

Jii.Y, iTca.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

107

to bo true, as it is certain tliat they give no quarter to either man, woman, or child, who is
so unfortunate as to fall into their hands during the battle, or for some hours afterwards, till
their passion, which is always violent, though not lasting, has subsided.

ith the
heavy
likely

WEAPONS, PIKE HEilDS, &C.

The Earee rahie of Obereonoo, while we were here, was in perfect amity with the Eareo
rahie of Tiarreboo, the other peninsula, though he took himself the title of king of the
whole island : this, however, produced no more jealousy in the other soverei n, than the
title of king of France, assumed by our sovereign, does in his Most Christian Majesty.

In a government so rude, it cannot be expected that distributive justice should be regu-
larly administered, and indeed, where there is so little opposition of interest, in consequence
of the facility with which every appetite and passion is gratified, there can be but few
crimes. There is nothing like money, the common medium by which every want and every
wish is supposed to be gratified by those who do not possess it ; there is no apparently
permanent good which either fraud or force can imlawfully obtain ; and when all the crimes
that are committed by the inhabitants of civilized countries, to get money, are set out of the
account, not many will remain : add to this, that where the commerce with women is
restrained by no law. men will seldom be under any temptation to commit adultery, espe-
cially as one woman is always less preferred to another, where they are less distinguished
by personal decorations, and the adventitious circumstances which are produced by the
varieties of art, and the refinements of sentiment. Tli!vt they are thieves is true; but as
among these people no man can be much injured or benefited by theft, it is not necessary to
restrain it by such punishments, as in other countries are absolutely necessary to the very
existence of civil society. Tupiiv, however, tells us, that adultery is sometimes committed
ns well as theft. In all cases where an injury has been committed, the punishment of the
offender lies with the sufferer : adultery, if the parties are caught in the fact, is sometimes
punished with death in the first ardour of resentment ; but without circumstances of imme-
diate provocation, the female sinner seldom suflfers more than a beating. As punishment,
however, is enforced by no law, nor taken into the hand of any magistrate, it is not often
inflicted, except the injured party is the strongest; though the chiefs do sometimes punish
their immediate dependants, for faults committed against each other, and even the dependants
of others, if they are accused of any offence committed in their district.

Having now given the best description that I can of the island in its present state, and of
the people, with their customs and manners, language and arts, I shall only add a few
general observations, which may be of use to future navigators, if any of the ships of Great
Britain should receive orders to visit it. As it produces nothing that appears to be con-
vertible into an article of trade, and can be used only by affording refresliments to shipping

lOU

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1709.

; ?

in their passage through these seas, it might bo made to answer this purpose in a much
greater degree, by transporting thither sheep, goats, and horned cattle, with Euro -can
garden-stuff, and other useful vegetables, which there is the greatest reason to suppos', will
flourish in so fine a climate, and so rich a soil.

Though this and the neighbouring islands lie within the tropic of Capricorn, yet the heat
is not troublesome, nor did the winds blow constantly from the east. We had frequently a
fresh gale from the S. W. for two or three days, and sometimes, though very seldom, from
tlic N. W. Tupia reported, that south-westerly winds prevail in October, November, and
December, and we have no doubt of the fact. When the winds are variable, they are
always accompanied by a swell from the S. W. or W. S. W. ; ^'lere is also a swell from the
same points when it is calm, and the atmosphere loaded with clouds, which is a sure indica-
tion that the winds are variable, or westerly out at sea, for witli the settled trade-wind the
weather is clear. The meeting with westerly winds, within the general limits of the eastern
trade, has induced some navigators to suppose that they were near some large tract of land,
of which, however, I think they are no indication.

It has been found, both by us and the Dolphin, that the trade-wind, in these parts, does
not extend farther to the south than twenty degrees, beyond which, we generally found a
gale from the westward ; and it is reasonable to suppose, that when these winds blow strong,
they will drive back the easterly wind, and consequently encroach upon the limits within
which they constantly blow, and thus necessarily produce variable winds, as either happens
to prevail, and a south-westerly sw:ell. This supposition is tlio more probable, as it is well
known that the trade-winds blow but faintly for some distance within their limits, and
therefore may be more easily stopped or repelled by a wind in the contrary direction : it is
also well known, that the limits of the trade-winds vary not only at different seasons of the
year, but sometimes at the same season, in different years. Tliere is therefore no reason to
suppose that south-westerly winds, within these limits, are caused by the vicinity of large
tracts of land, especially as they arc always accompanied with a large swell, in the same
direction in which they blow j and we find a much greater surf beating upon the shores of
the south-west side of the islands that are situated just within the limits of the trade-wind,
than upon any other part of them.

The tides about these islands are perhaps as inconsiderable as in any part of the world.
A south or S. by W. moon, makes high water in the bay of Alatavai at Otaheite ; but the
water very seldom rises perpendicularly above ten or twelve inches. The variation of the
compass I found lo be 4° 40 easterly, this being the result of a great number of trials made
with four of Dr. Knight's needles, adapted to azimuth compasses. These coinpasses I
thought the best that could be procured, yet when applied to the meridian line, I found
them to differ, not only one from another, somcti'iies a degree and a half, but the same
needle, half a degree from itself in different trials made on tlie same day ; and I do not
remember that I have ever found two needles which exactly agreed at the same time and
place, though I have often found the same needle agree with itself, in several trials made one
after the other. This imperfection of the needle, however, is of no consequence to naviga-
tion, as the variation can always be found to a degree of accuracy, more than sufficient for
all nautical pui'poscs.

CHAPTER XX. A DESCRIPTION OP SEVERAL OTHER ISLANDS IX THE NEIGIIBOURnOOD OF

PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO THE CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OP THE INHABITANTS.

After parting with our friends, we made an easy sail, with gentle breezes and clear
weather, and were informed by Tupia, that four of the neighbouring islands, which he
distinguished by the names of IIuaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola,* lay at the

* CiiUod noraboRi by the missionaries. Tlic / is substituteJ for the r, in several iiislaiices in the vocabnlarits
given by Cook. — Ei).

July, 1709.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

100

distance of between one anil two days' sail from Otaheitc ; and that liogs, fowls, and otlicr
refreslinicnts, with which we had of late been but sparingly supplied, were there to be procured
in f rcat plenty ; but having discovered from the hills of Otaheite an island lying to tho
northward, which he called Tethuroa, I determined first to stand that way, to take a
nearer view of it. It lies N. jr ^V. distant eight ler.gues from the northern extremity of
Otaheite, upon which we had observed the transit, and to which we had, for that reason,
given the name of Point Venus. We found it to be a small low island, and were told by
Tupia that it had no settled inhabitants, but was occasionally visited by the inhabitants of
Otaheite, who sometimes went thither for a few days to fish ; wc therefore determined to
spend no more time in a further cxammation of it, but to go in search of Huaheine and
Ulietea, which he described to bo well peopled, and as large as Otaheite.

At six o'clock in the morning of the 14th, the westernmost part of Eimeo, or York Island,
bore S.E. j S. and the body of Otaheitc E. A S. At noon, the body of York Island bore E.
by S. ^ S. ; and Port Royal bay, .it Otaheitc, S. 70° 4a' E. distant 61 miles ; and .an island,
which we took to be Saunders's Island, called by the natives Tapoamanao, bore S.S.W. Wo
also saw land bearing N.W. f W. which Tupia said was Huaheine.

On the 15th, it was hazy, with light breezes and calms succeeding each other, so that wo
could see no land, and made but little w.ay. Our Indi.an, Tupia, often prayed for a wind to
liis god T.ane, and as often boasted of his success, which indeed he took a very effectual
method to secure, for he never began his address to Tane, till he saw a breeze so near tluat
he knew it must reach the ship before his orison was well over. On the lOtli, we had a
gentle breeze ; and in the morning about eight o'clock, being close in with the north-west
part of the island Huaheine, wc sounded, but Iwd no bottom with 80 fathom. Some canoes
very soon came ofi', but the people seemed afraid, and kept at a distance till they discovered
Tupia, and then they ventured nearer. In one of the canoes that came up to the ship's side,
was the king of the island and his wife. Upon assurances of friendship, frequentr, and
earnestly repeated, their m.ajesties .and some others came on board. At first they were sti uek
with astonishment, and wondered at every thing that was shown them ; yet they made no
inquiries, and seeming to be sjvtisfied with what was oflfered to their notice, they made no
search after other objects of curiosity, vvith which it was natural to suppose a buihling of such
novelty and magnitude as the ship must abound. After some time, they became more
familiar. I was given to understand, that the name of the king was Obee, and he proposed,
as a mark of amity, that we should exchange names. To this I readily consented ; and he
was Cookee, for so he pronounced my name, and I was Oree, for the rest of the time we were
together. We found these people to be very nearly the same with those of Otaheite, in
person, dress, language, and every other circumstance, except, if Tupia might be believed,
that they would not steal.

Soon after dinner we came to an anchor in a small but excellent harbour on the west side
of the island, which the natives call Owharre, in eighteen fathom water, clear ground, and
secure from all winds. I went immedi.ately ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander,
Mr. Monkhousc, Tupia, King Cookee, and some other of the natives who had been on bojird
ever since the morning. The moment we landed, Tupia stripped himself as low as the waist,
and desired Mr. Monkhouse to do the same : he then sat down before a great number of the
natives, who were collected together in a large house or shed ; for here, as well as at Otaheite,
a house consists only of a root supported upon poles ; the rest of us, by his desire, standing
behind. Ho then began a speech or prayer, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, the
king, who stood over against him, every now and then answering in whsit appeared to be
set responses. In the course of this harangue, he delivered, at different times, two hand-
kerchiefs, a black silk neckcloth, some beads, two small bunches of feathers, and somo
plantains, as presents to their Eatua, or God. In return for these he received for our Eatua,
a hog, some young plantains, and two small bunches of feathers, which he ordered to be
carried on board the ship. After these ceremonies, which we supposed to be the ratification
of a treaty between us, every one was dismissed to go whither he pleased ; and Tupia
immediately repaired to offer his oblations at one of the Morals.

The next morning we went on shore again, and walked up the hills, whore the productions

110

COOK'S FIRST VbYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

,h'UY, 170!).

:1 ■

were exactly the same as those of Otaheite, except that the rocks and clay appeared to bo
more burnt. The houses were neat, and the boat-houses remarkably large ; one that wo
measured was fifty paces long, ten broad, and twenty-four feet high j the whole formed a
pointed arch, like those of our old cathedrals, which was supported on one side by twenty-
six, and on the other by thirty pillars, or rather posts, about two feet high and one thick,
upon most of which were rudely carved the heads of men, and several fanciful devices, not
altogether unlike those which we sometimes see printed from wooden blocks at the beginning
and end of old books. Tlie plains, or flat part of the country, abounded in bread-fruit and
cocoa-nut trees ; in some places, however, there were salt swamps and lagoons, which would
produce neither.

We went again ashore on the 18th, and would have taken the advantage of Tupia'a
company in our perambulation, but he wr.3 too much engaged with his friends ; we took,
however, his boy, whose name was Ta\eto, and Mr. Banks went to take a farther view of
■what had much engaged his attention before ; it was a kind of chest or ark, the lid of which
was nicely sewed on, and thatched very neatly with palm-nut leaves ; it was fixed upon
two poles, and supported on little arches of wood, very neatly carved ; the use of the poles
seemed to be to remove it from place to place, in the manner of our sedan-chairs ; in one end
of it was a square hole, in the middle of which was a ring touching the sides, and leaving
the angles open, so as to form a round hole v/ithin a square one. The first time Mr. Banks
saw tliis coffer, the aperture at the end was stopped with a piece of cloth, which, lest he
should give offence, he left untouched; probably there was then something within, but now the
cloth was taken away, and, upon looking into it, it was found empty. The general resem-
blance between this repository and the Ark of the Lord among the Jews is remarkable ; but
it is still more remarkable, that upon inquiring of the boy what it was called, he said,
Ewharre no Eatauy the house of the God : he could however give no account of its signification
or use.

AHK OF IIUAHEINR.

We liad commenced a kind of trade with the natives, but it went on slowly ; for
when anything was offered, not one of them would take it upon his own judgment,
but collected the opinions of twenty or thirty people, which could not be done without
great loss of time. We got, however, eleven pigs, and determined to try for more the
next day.

The next day, therefore, we brought out some hatchets, for which we hoped we should
have had no occasion, upon an island which no European had ever visited before. These
procured us three very large hogs ; and as we proposed to sail in the afternoon, King Oree
and several others came on board to take their leave. To the king I gave a small plate of
pewter, on which was stamped this inscription, " His Britannic Majesty's ship Endeavour,
Lieutenant Cook, Commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine." I gave him also some medals
or counters, resembling the coin of England, struck in the year 1761, with some other
presents ; and he promised that with none of these, particularly the plate, he would ever
part. I thought it as lasting a testimony of our having first discovered this island as any

July, 17fi9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

Ill

should
These
Ans Oree
plate of
ideavour,
le medals
me other
uld ever
as any

wc could leave hchind ; and having dismissed our visitors well satisfied and in great good-
hinnour, wc sot sail, about half an liour after two in the afternoon.

The island of Iluahcinc, or Iluahene, is situated in the latitude of 1G"43' S. and longitude
l.'ia" .")2 ^V. from Greenwich ; it is distant from Otahcite about thirty-one leagues, in the
direction of N. ')B W, and is about seven leagues in compass. Its surface is hilly and uneven,
aiul it has a safe and commodious harbour. The harbour, which is called by the natives
OwALLK, or OwiiAURE, lics on the west side, under the ncuthernmost high land, and witiiin
the north end of the reef, which lies along that side of the island ; there are two inlets or
openings, by which it may be entered through the reef, about a mile and a half distant from
each other ; the southernmost is the widest, and on the south side of it lies a very small sandy
island, lluaheine seems to be a month forwarder in its productions tlian Otaheite, as wo
found the cocoa-nuts full of kernel, and some of the new bread-fruit fit to eat. Of the cocoa-
nuts the inhabitants make a food which they call Poe, by mixing them with yams ; they
scrape both fine, and having incorporated the powder, they put it into a wooden trough with
a number of liot stones, by which an oily kind of hasty-pudding is made, that onr people
relished very well, especially when it was fried. Mr. Banks found not more than eleven or
twelve new ]>lants ; but he observed some insects, and a species of scorpion which ho had
not seen before.

The inhabitants seem to be larger made and more stout than those of Otaheite. Mr. Banks
measvred one of the men, and found him to be six feet three inches and a half high ; yet
they are so lazy that he could not persuade any of them to go up the hills with him : they
?aid, if they were to attempt it, the fatigue would kill them. The women were very fair,
more so than those of Otaheite; and in general we thought them more handsome, though nono
that were equal to some individuals. Both sexes seemed to be less timid and less curious :
it has been observed that they made no inquiries on board the ship, and when we fired a gun
they were frighted indeed, but they did not fall down as our friends at Otaheite constantly
did when we first came among them. For this difference, however, we can easily account
ii])on other principles : the people at lluaheine had not seen the Dolphin, those at Otaheite
had. In one, the report of a gun was connected with the idea of instant destruction ; to the
other, there was nothing dreadful in it but the appearance and the sound, as they had never
experienced its power of dispensing death.

While we were on shore, we found that Tupia had commended them beyond their merit
when lie said that they would not steal, for one of them was detected in the fact. But
when he was seized by the hair, the rest, instead of running away, as the people at Otaheite
would have done, gathered round, and inquired what provocation had been given : but this
also may be accounted for without gJvinfif them credit for superior courage ; they had no
experience of the consequences of Ec ., can resentment, wliich the people at Otaheite
had in many instances purchased with life. It must, however, be acknowledged to
their honour, that when they understood what had happened they showed strong signs
of disapprobation, and prescribed a good beating for the thief, which was immediately
administered.

We now made sail for the island of Ulietea, which lics S.W. by W., distant seven or
eight leagues from Huaheine, and at half an hour after six in the evening we were within
three leagues of the shore, on the eastern side. We stood off and on all night, and when
the day broke the next morning we stood in for the shore : we soon after discovered an
opening in the reef which lies before the island, within which Tupia told us there was a
good harbour. I did not, ho^^ever, implicitly take his word, but sent the master out in the
pinnace to examine it ; he soon made the signal for the ship to follow ; we accordingly stood
in and anchored in two-and-twenty fathom, with soft ground. The natives soon came off
to us in two canoes, each of which brought a woman and a pig. The woman we supposed
was a mark of confidence, and the pig was a present ; we received both with proper acknow-
ledgments, and complimented each of the ladies with a spike-nail and some beads, much to
their K.itisfaction. We were told by Tupia, who had always expressed much fear of the men
of Bolabola that they had made a conquest of this island ; and that, if we remained here,

112

COOK'S FIRST voyagp: round the avorld.

Jn.Y, 17GI).

' j '( *

tlioy wouKl certainly conic down to-morrow and fight U8. "Wo dotcrniincil, therefore, to go
on shore withont delay, while the day was onr own.

I landed in company with ^Ir. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the other gentlemen, Tnpia being
also of the party. lie introduced us by repeating the ceremonies which he had performed
nt lluaheine, after which I hoisted an English jack, and took ])os9ession of this and the three
neighboi'.ring isl.ands, lluaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola, which were all in sight, in the name
of his Britannic JVIajesty. After this wo took a walk to a great ]\Iorai, calleii Ta])odeboatea.
Wc found it very different from those of Otaheitc, for it consisted only of four walls, about
eight feet high, of coral stones, some of which were of an immense size, inclosing an area of
about five-and-twenty yards square, which was filled up with smaller stones ; upon the top
of it many planks were set up on end, which were carved in their whole length : at a little
distance we found an altar, or Ewhatta, upon which lay the last oblation or sacrifice, a hog
of about eighty pounds weight, which had been offered whole, and very nicely roasted.
Here were also four or five Ewharreno-Katua, or houses of God, to which carriage-poles
were fitted like that which we had seen at lluaheine. One of tliesc Mv. Banks examined
by putting his hand into it, and found a parcel about five feet long and one thick, wrapped
up in mats : he broke a way through several of these mats with his fingers, but at length
came to one which was made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, so firndy plaited together that
ho found it impossible to tear it, and therefore was forced to desist, especially as he perceived
that what he had done already gave great offence to our new friends. From hence we went
to a long liouse, not far distant, where, among rolls of cloth and several other things, we saw
the model of a canoe, about three feet long, to which were tied eight human jaw-bones : wo
Iiad already learnt that these, like scalps among the Indians of North America, were trophies
of war. Tupia affirmed that they were the jaw-bones of the natives of this island ; if so
they might ' ■'e been hung up, with the model of a canoe, as a symbol of invasion, by the
warriors of Bolabola, as a memorial of their conquest. Night now came on apace, but INIr.
Banks and Dr. Solander continued their walk along the shore, and at a little distance saw
another Ewharrc-no-Eatua, and a tree of the fig kind, the same as that which Mr. Green
had seen at Otaheite, in great perfection, the trunk, or rather congeries of the roots, of which
was forty-two paces in circumference.

On the 21st, iiaving despatched the master in the long-boat to examine the coast of the
south part of the island, and one of the mates in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the
ship lay, I went myself in the pinnace to survey that part of the island which lies to the
north. Mr, Banks and the gentlemen were again oh sliore, trading with the natives, and
examining the products and curiosities of the country; they saw nothing, however, worthy
notice, but some more jaw-bones, of which they made no doubt but that the account they
had heard was true.

On the 22nd and 23rd, having strong g.ales and hazj' weather, I did not think it safe to
put to sea ; but on the 24th, though the wind was still variable, I got under sail, and plied
to the northward within the reef, with a view to go out at a wider opening than that
by which I had entered ; in doing this, however, I was unexpectedly in the niost imminent
danger of striking on the rock : the master, whom I had ordered to keep continually
sounding in the chains, suddenly called out " two fathom." This alarmed me, for though I
knew the ship drew at least fourteen feet, and that tl'erefore it was impossible such a shoal
should be under her keel ; yet the master was either mistaken, or she went along the edge
of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these islands are as steep as a wall.

This harbour, or bay, is called by the natives Oopt A, and taken in its greatest extent,
it is capable of holding any number of shipping, it extends almost the whole length
of the east side of the island, and is defended from the sea by a reef of coral rocks :
the southernmost opening in this reef, or channel into the harbour, by which we entered,
is little more than a cable's length wide ; it lies off the easternmost part of the island,
and may be known by another small woody island, which lies a little to the south-
east of it, called by the people here Oatara. Between three and four miles north-
west from this island, lie two other islets in the same direction as the reef of which

{, 17C1).

■

p, to go

la being

rforined

ic tlirco

^tn^i

10 iiaino

ubuatca.

s, about

area of

the top

t a little

SjBi

0, a liog

j^M

roasted.

ige-polcs

xaminecl

wrapped

xt length

tlier that

)erceived

we went

!, \vc saw

)nes : wo

3 trophies

nd ; if so

n, by the

, but INIr.

lance saw

< ^1

Ir. Green

L of which

' 1

itst of the

where the

' ■

ies to the

tivcs, and

r, worthy

ount they

■

it safe to

■

and plied

than that

■1

imminent

mtinually

though I

ch a shoal

r the edge

as a wall.

st extent,

fl|

lie length

al rocljs:

■

5 entered,

le island,

he south-

■

es north-

of which

Jui.v, 17(59.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

118

they arc a part, called Oi'URunu and Tajiou ; between those lies tlio other channel into tlio
liarbour, through which I went out, and wliicli is a full quarter of a mile wide. Still
fartlu>r to the north-west are some other small isliinds, near wliich I am told tliere is uuotlier
small channel into the harbour; but this I know only by report. The jjrincipal refresh-
ments that are to be procured at tins i)art of the iMlund are, ]^lantains, cocoa-nuts, yams,
hogs, and fowls ; the hogs and fowls, however, are scarce ; and the country, where we saw
it, is neither so populous nor so rich in ])roduco as Otnheite, or even Iluaheiiie. Wood
and water may also be procured here ; but the water cannot conveniently be got at.

Wo were now again at sea, without having received any interrui)tion from the hostilo
iidiabitants of Bolabola, whom, notwithstanding tlio fears of Tupia, wo intended to visit.
At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 2i5tli, we were within a league of Otalia, wliich
bore N. 77 ^^- To the northward of the south end ef that island, on the east side of it, and
something more than a mile from the shore, lie two small islands, called Toaiioutu and
Wiiennuaia; between which, Tupia says, there is a channel into a very good harbour,
which lies within the reef, and appearances confirmed his report. As I discovered a broad
channel between Otaha and Bolabola, I determined rather to go through it, than run to the
northward of all ; but the wind being right ahead, I got no ground.

Between five and six in the evening of the 2()th, as I w.as standing to the northward,
I discovered a small low island, lying N. by W. or N.N.W. distant four or five leagues from
Bolabola. We were told by Tupia that the name of this island is TuuAi ; that it ju-oduces
nothing but cocoa-nuts, and is inhabited only by three families ; though it is visited by tho
inhabitants of the neighbouring islands, who resort thither to catch fish, with which the
coast abounds.

On the 27th, about noon, the peak of Bolabola bore N. 25 W., and the north end of Otaha,
N. 8() W., distant three leagues. The wind continued contrary all this day and tho night
following. On the 28th, at six in the morning, we were near the entrance of tho harbour
on tho east side of Otaha, which has been just mentioned ; and finding that it might bo
examined without losing time, I sent away the master in the long-boat, with orders to sound
it ; and if the wind did not shift in our favour, to land upon tho island, and traflic with tho
natives for such refreshments as were to be had. In this boat went Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander, who landed upon tho island, and before night purchased three hogs, twenty-one
fowls, and as many yams and plantains as the boat would hold. Plantains wo thought
a more useful refreshment even than pork ; for they were boiled and served to the ship*'a
company as bread, and were now the more acceptable as our bread was so full of vermin,
that notwithstanding all possible care, we had sometimes twenty of them in our mouths at
a time, every one of which tasted as hot as mustard. Tho island seemed to be more barren
than UHetea, but the produce was of the same kind. The people also exactly resembled
those that we had seen at tho other islands ; they were not numerous, but they flocked
about the boat wherever she went from all quarters, bringing with them whatever they had
to sell. They paid the strangers, of whom they had received an account from Tupia, tho
same compliment which they used towards their own kings, uncovering their shoulders, and
wrapping their g.arments round their breasts ; and were so solicitous to prevent its being
neglected by any of their people, that a man was sent with them, who called out to every
one they met, telling him what they were, and what he was to do. In the mean time,
I kept plying off and on, waiting for the boat's return ; at half an hour after five, not seeing
anything of her, I firod a gun, and after it was dark hoisted a light ; at half an hour after
eight, we heard the report of a musket, which wo answered with a gun, and soon after tho
boat came on board. The master reported that the harbour was safe and commodious, with
good anchorage from twenty-five to sixteen fathom water, clear ground.

As soon as the boat was hoisted in, I made sail to tho northward, and at eight o'clock in
the morning of the 29th, we were close under the Peak of Bolabola, which was high, rude,
and craggy. As the island was altogether inaccessible in this part, and we found it impos-
sible to weather it, we tacked and stood off, then tacked again, and after many trips did
not weather the south end of it till twelve o'clock at night. At eight o'clock the next
morning, we discovered an island, which bore from us N. 6.3° W. distant about eight leagues ;

114

CC)()K'S FIRST VOYAfJE ROl'NI) THE WOULD.

^^^0.

I'l I

•; f.

'I '

at tlio same time tlio Poak of Diilalxila bore N. ^E., distant tlirco or four leagues. This
island Tupia ealled MAirurA, and said tliat it was small, wholly surrounded by a reef, and
without any harbour for shipjung ; but inhabited, and bearing the s.anio produce as tho
neighbouring i»«1auda : the middle of it rises in a high round hill, that may be seen at tho
distance of ten leagues.

When wo were off Dolabola, we saw but few people on the shore, and were told by Tupia
that many of the inhabitants were gone to Ulietea. In tho afternoon we found ourselves
nearly tho length of the youth end of Ulietea, and to windward of some harbours that lay
on the west side of this island. Into one of these harbours, though we had before been
ashore on tho otlier side of the island, I intended to put, in order to stop a leak which wo
had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in more ballast, as I found the ship too light
to carry sail upon a wind. As the wind was right against us, we plied off one of tho
harbours, and about three o'clock in tho afternoon, on the Ist of August, wo came to an
anchor in tlio entrance of the channel leading into it, in fourteen fathom water, being
])reventcd from working in, by a tide which set very strong out. Wo then carried out tho
kedge- anchor, in order to warp into the harbour; but when this was done, wo conld not trip
the bower-anchor with all the purchase we could make ; we were therefore obliged to lio
still all night, and in tho morning, when the tide turned, tho ship going over the anchor, it
tripped of itself, and we warped tho ship into a proper berth with ease, and moored in
twenty-eight fathom, with a sandy bottom. While this was doing, many of the natives
came oft" to us with hogs, fowls, and plantains, which they parted with at an easy rate.
Wiien the ship was secured, I went on shore to look for a proper place to get ballast and
•water, boil; which I found in a very convenient situation.

This day Mr. Danks and Dr. Solandcr spent on shore, very much to their satisfaction :
every body seemed to fear and respect them, placing in them at the same time the utmost
confidence, behaving as if conscious that they possessed tho power of doing them mischief,
without any propensity to make use of it. Men, women, and children, crowded round

e guilty of the least

water in the way,

J. They were con-

a manner altosiether

them, and followed tliem wherever they went ; but none of them
incivility: on tho contrary, whenever there happened to bo d
the men vied with each other to carry them over on their ^.
ducted to the houses of the principal people, and were ; cccived »u
new : tho people who followed them while they were in their way, rushed forward as
soon as they came to a house, and went hastily in before them, leaving, however, a lane
sufliciently wide for them to pass. When they entered, tiiey found those who had preceded
them ranged on each side of a long mat, which was spread upon tho ground, and at tho
farther end of which sat the family : in the first house they entered, they found some very
young women or children, dressed with the utmost neatness, who kept their station, expecting
the strangers to como up to them avl make them presents, which they did with the greatest
pleasure ; for prettier children, or better dressed, they had never seen. One of them was
a girl about six years old ; her gown or upper garment was red ; a large quantity of plaited
hair was wound round her head, the ornament to which they give the name of Tamou, and
which they value more than anything they possess. She sat at tho upper end of a mat thirty
feet long, upon which none of tho spectators presumed to set a foot, notwithstanding tho
crowd ; and she leaned upon the arm of a well-looking woman about thirty, who was
probably her nurse. Our gentlemen walked up to her, and as soon as they approached,
she stretched out her hand to receive the beads which they offered her, and no princess in
Europe could have done it with a better grace.

The people were so m''.ch gratified by the presents which were made to these girls, that
when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr returned, they seemi \ attentive to nothing but how to
oblige them : and in cue of the houses, they were, by order of the master, entertained with
a dance different from any that they had seen. It was performed by one man, who put
upon his head a largo cylindrical piece of wicker-work, or basket, about four feet long and
eight inches in diameter, which was faced with feathers, placed perpendicularly, with the
tops bending forwards, and edged round with sharks' teeth, and the tail-feathers of tropic
birds : when he had put on this head-dress, which is called a Whow, he began to dance,

1*09.

Aiu. i;oo.

COOK'S FIRST VOVACiE llOl'ND TMK AVOULD.

. This
Off, ftiid
I as tlio
1 at tlio

ly Tnpia
jiirselvra
that lay
ore been
diich wo
too liglit
ic of tho
no to an
cr, being
J out tho
il not trip
red to Ho
anchor, it
noored in
tc natives
easy rate.
tuUast and

tisfaction :
;hc utmost
il mischief,
dcd round
)f the least
tho way,
were con-
altoffcthcr
orward as
■cr, a lano
Id preceded
ind at tho
some very
expecting
lie greatest
them was
of plaited
[amou, and
jmat thirty
mding tho
who w^as
)proached,
)rincess in

girls, that
l)ut how to
lined with
who put
[t long and
with tho
|s of tropic
to dance,

moving slowly, and often turning his head so as that the top of his higii witUer-cai) described
a circle, and sometimes throwing it so near tho faces of the spectators as to make them
htart back : this was held amon^f them as a very good joke, and never failed to i)rodiico
a jieal of laughter, especially when it was )>Iayed off upon one of the strangers.

On the Mnl, wc went along the shore to the nortlnvaril, which was in a direction ojiposito
to tiiat of the route Mv. Ranks and Dr. Solander had taken the day before, with a design
to purchase stock, which wo always found the i)eoplc more ready to part with, and at a more
easy price, at their houses than at tho market. In tho course of our walk wo met with n
company of dancers, who detained us two hours, and during all that time afforded us great
entertainment. The company consisted of two women dancers and six men, with threo
drums. Wo were informed by Tupia that they were some of the most considerable people
of the island, and that, though they were continually going from place to place, they did not,
like the little strolling compimics of Otahdite. take any gratuity from the spectators. Tho
women had upon their heads a considerable quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, which was
brought several times round the head, and adorned in many parts with the flowers of tho
cape-jessamine, which were stuck in with nnich taste, and made a head-dress truly elegant.
Their necks, shoulders, and arms were naked ; so were the breasts also, as low as the part-
ing of tho arm ; below that they were covered with black cloth, which set close to the body.
At the side of each breast, next the arm, was placed a small plume of black feathers, much
in tho same manner as our ladies now wear their nosegays or lioitfjiuis. Upon their hips
rested a quantity of cloth plaited very full, which reached up to the breast, raid fell down
below into long petticoats, which quite concealed their feet, and which they managed with
OS much dexterity as our opera-dancers could have done. Tho plaits above the waist were
brown and white alternately ; tho petticoats below were all white.

In this dress they adv.anced sideways in a measured stop, keeping excellent time to tho
drums, which beat briskly iid loud ; soon after they began to shako their hips, giving tho
folds of cloth that lay upon them a very quick motion, which was in some degree continued
through tho whole dance, though the body was thrown into various postures, sometimes
standing, sometimes sitting, and sometimes resting on their knees and olbowo, the fingera
also being moved .at tho same time with a quickness scarcely to be imagined. Much of tho
dexterity of the dancers, however, and the entertainment of the spectators, consisted in tho
wantonness of their .attitudes and gestures, which was indeed such as exceeds all description.

One of these girls had in her ear three pearls ; one of them was very large, but so foul
that it was of little value ; the other two were as big as a middling pea ; these were clear,
and of a good colour and shape, though spoiled by the drilling. JSIr. Banks would fain havo
purchased them, and offered the owner anything she would ask for them, but she coidd not
be persuaded to part with them at any price. He tempted her with the value of four hogs,
and whatever else she should choose, but without success ; and indeed they set a value upon
their pearls very nearly equal to what they would fetch among us, except they could be
procured before they are drilled.

Between tho dances of the women, the men performed a kind of dramatic interlude, in
which there was di'' ogue as well as dancing; but we were not sufficiently acquainted with
their language to understand the subject. On the 4th, some of our gentlemen saw a much
more regular entertainment of the dramatic kind, which was divided into four acts.

Tupia had often told us that he had large possessions in this island, which had been taken
away from him by the inhabitants of Bolabola, and he now pointed them out in the very bay
where the ship was at anchor. Upon our going on shore this was confirmed by the inhabitants,
who showed us several districts, or Whennuas, which they acknowledged to be his right.

On the 5tli, I received a present of three hogs, some fowls, several pieces of cloth, — tho
largest we had seen, being fifty yards long, which they unfolded and displayed so as to mako
the greatest show possible, — and a considerable quantity of plantains, cocoa-nuts, and other
refreshments, from Opoony, the formidable king, or, in tiie language of the country, Earee
rahic, of Bolabolo, with a message that he was at this time upon the island, and that the next
day he intended to pay me a visit.

In tho mean time JNIr. Banks and Dr. Sohander went upon the hills, accompanied by

i-l'

116

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Auo, 1700.

:. I'

several of the Indians, who conducted iliem by excellent paths to such a height that thc^
plainly saw the other side of the island, and the passage through which the ship liad passed
tlie reef between the little islands of Opururu and Tanion, when we landed upon it th'i first
time. As they were returning, they saw the Indians exercising themselves at wliat ;hey
call Erow/iaic, which is nothing more than pitching a kind of light lance, headed witli hard
wood, at a mark. In this am"sement, though they seem very fond of it, they do not excel ;
for not above one in twelve struck th. mark, which was the bole of a plantain-tree, at about
twenty yards distance.

On the Gth, we all staid at home, expecting the visit of the great king, but we were
aisappointed ; wo had, however, much more agreeable company, for he sent three very
pretty girls to demand something in return for his present : perhaps he was unwilling to
trust himself on board the ship, or perhaps he thought his messengers would procure a more
valuable return for his hogs and poultry than he could himself; be that as it may, we did
not regret his absence, nor his messengers their visit. In the afternoon, as the grca* king
would not come to us, we detcraiined to go to the gre.at king. As he was lord of the Bola-
bola men, the conquerors of this, and the terror of all the other islands, we expected to see
a chief young and vigorous, w.Hh an intelligent countenance, and an enterprising spirit. We
found, however, a poor feeble wretcl:, withered and decrepit, half blind with age, and so
sluggish and stupid, that he appeared scarcely to have understanding eiough left to know
that it was probable we should be gratified cither by hogs or women. He did not receive
us sitting, or with any state or fortnality as the other chiefs had done. We made him our
l<resent, which Iio accepted, and gav? a hog in return, '^'^e had learnt that his principal
residence was at Otaha ; and upon our telling him that we intended to go thither in our
boats ilie next morning, and that we should be glad io have him along with us, he promised
to be of the party.

Early in the morning, therefore, I set out, both with the pinnace and long-boat, for Otaha,
having some of the gentlemen with me ; and in our way we called upon Opoony, who was
in his canoe ready to join us. As soon as we landed at Otaha, I made him a present of an
axe, which I thought might induce him to encourage his subjects to bring us such provisions
as we wanted, but in this we found ourselves sa Jly disappointed ; for after staying with him
till noon, we left him without being able to procure a single article. I then proceeded to
the north point of the island in the pinnace, having sent the long-boat another way. As I
went aL.g, I picked up hulf-a-dozen hogs, as many fowls, and some plantains and yams.
Having viewed and sketched the harbour on this side of *'ue islaiid, I made the best of my
way back with the long-boat, which joined me soon after it was dark ; and about ten o'clock
at night we got on board the ship.

In this excursion Mr. Barks was not with us : he spent the morning on board the ship,
trading with the natives, wlio came off in their canoes, for provisions and curiosities ; and,
in tlie afternoon, he went on shore with hr draughtsmen, to sketch the dresses of the dancers
which he had seen a day or two before. He found the company exactly the same, except
that another woman had been added to it : the dancing also of the women was the same,
but the interludes of the men were somewhat varied ; he saw five or six performed, which
were different from each other, and very much resembled the drama of our stage dances. The
next day, he went ashore again, with Dr. Soland r, and they directed their course towards the
dancing company, which, from the time of our second landing, had gradually moved about two
leagues in their course round tlie island. They sriw more dancing, and more interhides, the
interludes still varying from each other : in one of them the performers, who were all men,
were divided into two parties, which were distinguished from each other by the colour of
their clothes, one being brown, and the other white. The brown party represented a master
and servants, and the white party a company of thieves : the master gave a basket of meat
to tiie rest of his party, with a charge to take care of it : the dance of the wnite party
consisted of several expedients to steal it, and that of the brown party in preventing their
success. After some time, those who had ehaij^e of the basket placed themselves round it
upon tiie ground, ai \, leaning upon it, appeared to go to sleep ; the others, improving this
opportunity, came gently upon them, and lifting them up from the basket, carried off their

I to,

17CD.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

117

prize : the sleepers, soon after awaking, nussed their basket, but presently full a Jancing,
without any farther rogardinpr their loss ; so that the dramatic action of this dance was,
according to the severest laws of criticism, one, and our lovers of simplicity would here have
been gratified with an entertainnient perfectly suited to the chastity of their taste.

On the 9ih, liaving spent the morning in trading with the canoes, we took the opportunity
of a breeze, which sprung up at east, and having stopped our leak, and got the fresh stock
which we had purchased on board, we sailed out of the harbour. When we were sailing
away, Tupia strongly urged me to fire a shot towards Bolabola, possibly as a mark of hid
resentment, and to show the power of his new allies : in this I thought proper to gratify him,
though we were seven leagues distant.

While we were about these islands, we expended very little of the shij/s provisions, and
were very plentifully supplied with hogs, fowls, plantains and yams, which w^o hoped would
have be .1 of great use to us in our course to the southward ; but the hogs would not eat
European grain of any kind, pulse, or bread-dust, so that we could not preserve them alive ;
and the fowiS were all very soon seized with a disease that aflFected the head so, that they
continued to hold it down betw^een their legs till they died : much dependence, therefore,
must not be placed in live stock taken on board at these places, at least not till a discovery
is made of sonic food that the hogs will eat, and some remedy for the disease of the poultry.
Having been necessarily detained at Ulietea so long, by the carpenters, in stopping our
leak, we determined to give up our design of going on shore at Bolabola, especially as it
appeared to be difficult of access.

To these six islands, Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabo.la, Iluaheine, Tubal, and Maurua, as they lie
contiguous to each other, I gave the names of Society Islands, but did not tliink it proper
to distinguish them separately by any other names than those by which they were known to
the natives. They are situated between the latitude of 16" 10' and 10° 55' S., and between
the longitude of 150° 57' and 152" W. from the meridian of Greenwich, Ulietea and Otaha
lie within about two miles of each other, and are both inclosed within one reef of coral rocks,
so that there is no passage for shipping between them. This reef forms several excellent
harbours ; the entrances into them, indeed, are but narrow, yet when a ship is once in,
nothing can hurt her. The harbours on the east side have been described already ; and on
the west aide of Ulietea, which is the largest of the two, there are three. The northernmost,
in which we lay, is called Ouamaneno : tlie channel leading into it is about a quarter of a
mile wide, and lies between two low sandy islands, which are the northernmost on this side ;
between, or just within the two islands, there is good anchorage in twenty-eight fathom, soft
ground. Tliis harbour, though small, is preferable to the others, because it is situated in
the most fertile part of the island, and where fresh water is easily to be got. The other two
harbours lie to the southward of this, and not far from the south end of the island : in both
of them there is good anchorage, with ten, twelve, and fourteen fathom. They are easily
known by three small woody islands at their entrance. The southernmost of these two
harbours lies within, and to the southward of the southernmost of these islands, and the
other lies between the two northernmost, I was told that there were more harbours at the
south end of this island, but I did not examine whether the report was true.

Otaha affords two very good hai'tours, one on tlie east side, and the other on the west.
That on the cast side is called Ohamcne, and has be aientioncd already ; the other is called
OiiERUHUA, and lies about tlie middle of the south-west side of the island ; it is pretty large,
and affords good anchojagc in twenty and twenty-five fivthom, nor is there any want of
fresli water. Tlie breacli in the reef, tliat forms a channel into this harbour, is about a
quarter of a mile broad, and, like all the rest, is very steep on both sides : in general there is
no danger here but what is visible.

The island of Bolabola lies N.W. and by W. from Otaha, distant about four leagues ; it
is surrounded by a reef of rocks, and several small islands, in compass together about ei'dit
leagues, I was told, that, on the south-west side of the island, there is a channel through
the reef iuto a very good harbour, but I did not think it worth while to examine it, for the
reasons that have been just assigned. This island is rendered very remarkable by a high
craggy hill, which appears to be almost perpendicular, and teruiinatea at the top in two

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118

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE AVOllLD.

Aug. 17C0.

peaks, one higher than the otlicr. The land of Ulietea ana Otaha is hilly, broken, and
irregular, except on the sea-coast, yet the hills look green and pleasant, and are, in many
places, clotliL'd with wood. The several particulars in which these islands, and their inha-
bitants, differ from what we had observed, at Otaheite, have been mentioned in the course
of the narrative.

Wo pursued our course without any event worthy of note till the 13th, about noon, when
•we saw land bearing S.E., which Tupia told us was an island called Oheteroa. About
six in the evening, wo were within two or three leagues of it, upon which I shortened sail,
and stood off and on all night ; the next morning stood in for the land. We ran to leeward
of the island, keeping close in shore, and saw several of the natives, though in no great
numbers, upon the beach. At nine o'clock I sent Mr. Gore, one of my lieutenants, in the
pinnace, to endeavour to land upon the island, and learn from the natives whether there was
anchorage in a bay then in sight, and what land lay farther to the southward. Mr. Banks
and Dr. Solandcr accompanied JVir. Gore in this expedition, and as they thought Tupia
might bo useful, they took him with them. As the boat appiaached the shore, those on
board perceived the natives to be armed with long lances : as they did not intend to land till
they got round a point which runs out at a little distance, they stood along the coast, and
the natives, therefore, very probably thought they were afraid of them. They had now got
together to the number of about sixty, and all of them sat down upon the shore, except two,
wlio were d'?spatched forward to observe the motions of those in the boat. These men, after
■walking abreast of her some time, at length leaped into the water, and swam towards her,
but were soon left behind ; two more then appeared, and attempted to board her in the same
manner, but they also werf' sr^-n left behind ; a fifth man tlien ran forward alone, and havir^
got a good way a-head of the boat before he took to the water, easily reached her. Mr.
Banks urged the officer to take him in, thinking it a good opportunity to got the confidence
and good- will of a people, who then certainly looked upon them as enemies, but he obsti-
nately refused ; this man, therefore, was left behind like the others, and so was a sixth, who
followed him.

Wlien the boat had got round the point, she perceived thsit all her followers had desisted
from tiie pursuit : she now opened a large bay, at the bottom of which appeared another
body of men, armed with long lances like the first. Here our people prepared to land, and
pushed towards the shore, a canoe at the same time putting ofi" to meet them. As soon as
it came near them, they lay upon their oars, and calling out to tho.Ti, told them that they
were friends, and, that if they would come up, they vrould give them nails, which were held
up for them to see : after some hesitation they came up to the boat's stern, and took some
nails that were oflfered them with great seeming satisfaction ; but in less than a minute they
a])pcared to have formed a design of boarding the boat, and making her their prize : three of
thorn suddenly leaped into it, and the others brought up the canoo, which the motion in
quitting her had thrown off a little, manifestly with a design to follow their associates, and
sujijiort them in their attempt. The first that boarded the boat, entered close to Mr. Banks,
and instantly snatched his powder-horn out of his pocket : Mr. Banks seized it, and with
some difficulty wrenched it out of his hand, at the same time pressing against his breast in
order to force him overboard, but he was too strong for him, and kept his place . the officer
then snapped his piece, but it missed fire, upon whicli he ordered some of the people to fire
over their heads ; two pieces were accordingly discharged, upon which they all instantly
leaped into the water : one of the people, either from cowardice or cruelty, or both, levelled
a third piece at one of them as he was swimming away, and the ball grazed his forehead ;
happily, however, the wound was very slight, for he recovered the canoe, and stood up in
her as active and vigorous as the rest. The canoe immediately stood in for the shore, where
a great number of people, not less than two hundred, were now assembled. The boat also
pushed in, but found the land guarded all round witii a shoal, upon which the sea broke
with a considerable surf ; it was, tliercfore, thought advisable by the officer to proceed along
shore in search of a more e(mvenieiit landing-place: in the mean time, the people on board
Haw the eanoe go on shore, and the natives gatiur eagerly round her to inquire the particu-
lars of what had happened. Soon after, a single man ran along the shore, armed with his

Aug. 170D.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

lance, and when he came abreast of the boat, he began to dance, brandish his weapon, and
call out in a very shrill tone, which Tiipia said was a defiance from the people. Tiie boat
continued to row along the shore, and the champion followed it, re- eating his defiance by his
voice and his gestures ; but no better landing-place being founc. than that where the canoe
had put the natives on shore, the officer turned back witli a view to attempt it there, hoping,
that if it should not be practicable, the people would come to a conference either on the
shoals or in their canoes, and that a treaty of peace might be concluded with them.

As the boat rowed slowly along the shore back again, another champion came down,
shouting defiance, and brandishing his lance. His appearance was more formidable than
that of the other, for he wore a large cap rmide of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, and his
body was covered with stripes of difitrent coloured cloth, yellow, red, and brown. This
gentleman also danced, but with much more nimbloness and dexterity than tlie first ; our
people, therefore, considering his agility and his dress, distinguished him by the name of
Harlequin. Soon after, a more grave and elderly man came down to the beach, and, hail-
ing the people in the boat, inquinjd who they were, and from whence they came. Tupia
answered in their own language, from Otahcite ; the three natives then walked peaceably
along the shore till they came to a shoal, upon which a few people were collected. Here
they stopped, and, after a slidit conference, they all began to pray very loud : Tupia made
his responses, but continued to tell us that they were not our friends. "When their prayer,
or, as they call it, their Poorah, was over, our people entered into a parley with tlicni, telling
them, that if they would lay by their lances and clubs, — for some had one, and some tlij
other, — they would come on shore, and trade with them for whatever they would bring :
they agreed, but it was only upon condition that we would leave behind us our muskets.
This was a condition which, however equitable it might appear, could not be complied with,
nor, indeed, would it have put the two parties upon an equality, except their numbers had
been equal. Here, then, the negotiation seemed to be at an end ; but in a little time they
ventured to come nearer to the boat, and at last came near enough to trade, which they did
very fairly, for a small quantity of their cloth and some of their weapons. But as they gave
our people no hope of provisions, nor indeed anything else, except they would venture
through a narrow channel to the shore, which, all circumstances considered, they did not
think it prudent to do, they put off tlio boat and left them.

AV^ith the ship and the boat we hail now made tlio circuit of the island; and finding that
there was neither harbour v anchorage about it, and that the hostile disposition of tho
people would render landin. practicable without bloodshed, I determined not to attempt
it, having no motive that couM justify the risk of life. The b:i\, .\liich the boat entered,
lies ou tlie west side of the island ; the bottom was foul and nu ky, but the water so clear
that it could plainly be seen at tho depth of five-and-twenty fathom, which is one hundred
and fifty feet.

This island is situated in the latitude of 22" 27' S., and in the longitude of 150" 47' W.
from the meridian of Greenwich. It is thirteen miles- in circuit iiid rather high than low,
but neither ])opulou9 nor fertile in proportion to the oilier islands tliut we had seen in these
seas. The chief produce seems to be tlic tree of whi« ' they make their weapons, called, in
their language, Eton; many plantations of it were seen along the shore, which is not sur-
rounded, like the neighbouring islands, by a reef.

The people seemed to bo lusty and well made, rather bn ' ner than those wo had left:
under their armpits they had black marks about as brom' ■! tlie hand, the edges of which
formed not a straight but an indented line : they hail u'.^o circles of the same colour, but
not so broad, roimd their arms and legs, but were not marked on any other part of tlie bod/.
Their di-css was very different from any that we had seen before, as well as the cloth of
which it was made. The cloth was of the same materials as that which is worn in the
other islands, and most of that which was seen by our peo))le was dyed of a bright but deep
yellow, and covered on the outside with a composition like varnish, which was either red,
or of a dark lead-colour; over this ground it was again painted in stripes of many different
patterns, with wonderful regularity, in the manner of our striped silks in England : the cloth
that was painted red was striped with black, and that which was painted lead-colour with

ifi-

1 .

120

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLP.

Aug. 1709.

-white. Tlicir Iiabit was a short jacket of this cloth, which reached about as low as their
knees ; it was of one piece, and had no other making than a hole in the middle of it,
stitched round with long stitches, in which it differed from all that we had seen before :
throuirh this hole the head was put, and what hung down was confined to their bodies by
a piece of yellow cloth or sash, which, passing round the neck behind, was crossed upon the
breast, and then collected round the waist like a belt, which passed over another belt of red
cloth, so that they made a very gay and warlike appearance ; some had caps of the feathers
of the tropic bird, which liave been before described, and some had a piece of white or lead-
coloured cloth wound about the head like a small turban, which our people thought more
bkooming.

Their arms were long lances, made of the Etoa, the wood of which is very hard ; they

NATIVE OF OIlRTEHOit WITH BIS KTOA LANCE.

t:l ■!

were well polished and sharpened at one end : some were near twenty feet long, though not
more than three fingers thick : they had also a weapon, which was both club and pike,
made of the same wood, about seven feet long ; this also was well polished and sharpened
at one end into a broad point. As a guard against these weapons, when they attack each
other, they have mats folded up many times, which they place under their clothes from the
neck to the waist : the weapons themselves, indeed, are cap<ible of much less mischief than
those of the same kind which we saw at the other islands, for the lances were there pointed
with the sharp bone of the sting-ray that is called the sting, and the pikes were of much
greater weight. The other things that we saw here were all superior in their kind to any
we had seen before ; the cloth was of a better colour in the dye, and painted with greater
neatness and taste ; the clubs were better cut and polished, and the canoe, though a small
one, was very rich in ornament, and the carving was executed in a better manner :
among other decorations peculiar to this canoe, was a line of small white feathers, which
Jmng from the head and stern on the outside, and which, when, we saw them, were
tljoroughly wetted by the spray.

Tupia told us, that there were several islands lying at different distances, and in different
directions from this, between the south and the north-west ; and that, at the distance of
three days' sail to the north-east, tliere was an island called Manda, Bird Island : ho
seemed, however, most desirous that wo should sail to the westward, and described several
islands in that direction wliich he said he had visited : he told us that he had been ten or
twelve days in going tliither, and thirty in coming back, and that the Pahie in which he
had made the voyage sailed much faster than the ship : reckoning his Pahie therefore to
go at the rate of forty leagues a day, which, from my own observation, I have great reason
to think these boats will do, it would make four hundred leagues in ten days, which I
compute to bo the distance of Boscawen and Keppol's Islands, discovered by Captain Wallis,
westward of Ulietea, and therefore think it very i)robaole that they were the islands he had
visited. The farthest island that he knew anything of to the southward, ho said, lay at the
dis' ce of about two days' sail from Otcroah, an' was called 3Ioutou ; but he said that
his father had told him there were ishinds to the smithward of that : upon tl.o whole, I was
determined to stand southward in search of a continent, but to spend no time in searching
for islands, if we did not happen to fall in with tiuin during our course.

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COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

121

BOOK II.

CIIAPTEIt I. — THE PASSAGE FHOM OTEROAH TO ^E^V ZEALAND — INCIDENTS WlllCn HAPPENED
ON GOING ASUURE XIIERE, AND WniLl! TUE SHIP LAY IN POVERTY DAY.

We sailed from Otcroah on tlie 1.5tli of August, and on Friday the 2i5th wo celebrated
the anniversary of our leaving England, by taking a Cheshire cheese from a locker, where
it had been carefully treasured up for this occasion, and tapping a cask of porter, which proved
to bo very good, and in excellent order. On the 29th, one of the sailors got so drunk, that
the next morning he died : we thought at first that he could not have conic honestly by the
liquor, but we afterwards learned that the boatswain, whose mate he was, had, in mere good-
nature, given him part of a bottle of rum.

On the 30th, we saw the comet ; at one o'clock in the morning, it ^^•a8 a little above the
horizon in the eastern part of the heavens ; at about half an hour after four it passed the
meridian, and its tail subtended an angle of forty-two degrees. Our latitude was 30" 20' S. ,
our longitude, by log, 147° <>' W., and the variation of the needle, by the azimuth, 7° 9' E-
Among others that observed the comet, was Tupia, who instantly cried out, that as soon as
it should be seen by the people of Dolabola, they would kill the inhabitants of Ulietea, who
would, with the utmost precipitation, fly to the mountains.

On the 1st of September, being in the latitude of 40° 22' S., and longitude 147° 29' W.,
and there not being any signs of land, with a heavy sea from the westward, and strong
gales, I wore, and stood back to the northward, fearing that we might receive such damage
in our sails and rigging, as would hinder the prosecution of the voyage. On the next day,
there being strong gales to the westward, I brought to, with the ship's head to the north-
ward ; but in the morning of the 3rd, the wind being more moderate, we loosened the reef
of the main-sail, set the top-sails, and plied to the westward.

We continued our course till the 19th, when our latitude being 29°, and our longitude
159° 29', we observed the variation to be 8° 32' E. On the 24th, being in latitude 33° 18',
longitude 162° 51' we observed a small piece of sea-weed, and a piece of wood covered
with barnacles : the variation here was 10° 48' E. On the 27th, being in latitude 28° 59',
longitude 169° 5', we saw a seal asleep upon tlio water, and several bunches of sea-
weed. The next day we saw more sea-weed in bunches, and on the 29th, a bird,
which we thought a land-bird; it somewhat resembled a snipe, but had a short bill.
On the 1st of October, we saw birds innumerable, and another seal asleep upon the
water ; it is a general opinion, that seals never go out of soundings, or far from land,
but those that we saw in these seas prove the contrary. Rock- weed is, however, a certain
indication that land is not far distant. The next day, it being calm, we hoisted
out the boat, to try whether there was a current, but found none. Our latitude was
37° 10', longitude 172° 54' W. On the 3rd, being in latitude 36° 56', longitude 173°
27', we took up more sea-weed, and another piece of wood covered with barnacles. The
next day, we saw two more seals, and a brown bird, about as big as a raven, with some
white feathers under the wing. Jlr. Gore told us, that birds of this kind were seen
in great numbers about Falkland's Islands, and our people gave them the name of Port
Egmont hens.

On the 5th. ve thought the water changed colour, but, upon casting the lead, had no
ground with 180 fathom. In the evening of this day, the variation was 12° .50' E., and,
while we were going nine leagues, it increased to 14° 2'. On the next day, Friday, October
the 6th, we saw land from the mast-head, bearing W. by N., and stood directly for it ; in
the evening, it could just bo discerned from the deck, and appeared large. The variation

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COOK'S FIHST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 1700.

• i:

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this day was, by aiciiiiiitli and amplitude, 15° ^c^ E., and by ubscrvatiun made of the sun and
moon, the longitudo of tlio ship appeared to bo 180° Cut' W., and by the medium of tliis
and subsoquuiit observations, there appeared to be an error in the ship's account of longitudo
during her run from Otalieito of 3' 1(5', she being so much to the westward of the longitudo
resulting from the log. At midnight, I brought to and sounded, but had no ground with
one hundred and seventy fathom.

On the 7tli) it fell calm, wo therefore approached tho land slowly, and in the afternoon,
when a breeze spnmg up, wo were still distant seven or eight leagues. It appeared still
larger as it was more distinctly seen, with four or five ranges of hills, rising one over the
other, and a chain of mountains abovo all, which appeared to bo of an enormous height.
This land became the subject of much eager conversation ; but the general opinion seemed
to bo that wo had found tho Terra austraUs incot/nlta. About five o'clock, wo saw tho
opening of a bay, which seemed to run pretty fur inland, upon which wo hauled our wind
and stood in for it ; we also saw snioko ascending from dift'orent places on shore. When
night came on, however, we kept plying off and on till day -light, wiien we found ourselves
to the leeward of tho bay, the wind being at north : we could now perceive that the hills
were clothed with wood, and that some of the trees in the valleys were very large. By
noon we fetcliod in with tho south-west point ; but not being able to weather it, tacked
and stood off: at this time wo saw several canoes standing across the bay, which, in a littlo
time, made to shore, without seeming to take the least notice of the sliip ; we also saw somo
houses, which appeared to be small, but neat ; and near one of them a considerable number
of the people collected together, w.ho were sitting upon the beach, and who, wo thought,
were tho same that we had seen in the canoes. Upon a small peninsula, at tho north-east
head, we could plainly perceive a pretty high and regular paling, which inclosed tho whole
top of a hill ; this was also the subject of much speculation, some supposing it to be a park
of deer, others an inclosurc for oxen and sheep. About four o'clock in tho afternoon, wo
anchored on t'lo north-west side of the bay, before the entrance of a small river, in ten
fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom, and at about half a league from the shore. Tho
sides of the bay are white cliffs of a great height ; tho middle is low land, with hills
gradually rising behind, one towering above another, and terminating in tho chain of
mountains, which appeared to be far inland.

In the evening I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with tho
pinnace and yawl, and a party of men. We landed abreast of the ship, on tho east side of
the river, which was here al)OHt forty yards broad ; but seeing somo natives on the west
side whom I wished to speak with, and finding tho river not fordable, I ordered tho yawl
in to cany us over, and left tho pinnace at the entrance. When wo came near the place
where tho people wore assembled, they all ran away; however, we landed, and leaving four
boys to take care of the yawl, we walked up to some huts which were about two or three
hundred yards from the water-side. When we had got some distance from the boat, four
men, armed with long lar^es, rushed out of the woods, and running up to attack tho boat,
would certainly have cut her off, if the j)cople in the pinnace had not discovered them, and
called to the boys to drop down the stream : the boys instantly obeyed ; but being closely
pursued by the Indians, the cockswain of tho pinnace, w^ho had the charge of the boats,
tired a musket over their heads ; at this they stopped and looked round them, but in a few
minutes renewed the pursuit, brandishing their lances in a threatening manner: tho
cockswain then fired a second musket over their heads, but of this they took no notice ;
and one of them lifting up his spear to dart it at the boat, another piece was fired, which
shot him dead. When he fell, the other three stood motionless for some minutes, as if
petrified with astonishment; as soon as they recovered, they went back, dragging after
them the dead body, which, however, they soon left, that it might not encumber their flight.
At the report of tho first musket, we drew together, having straggled to a little distance
from each other, and made the best of our way back to tlio boat ; and crossing the river,
we soon saw the Indian lying dead upon the ground. Upon examining the body, wc found
that he had been shot through the heart : he was a man of the middle size and stature ; his
complexion was brown, but not very dark ; and one side of his face was tattooed in spiral

Oct. iroo.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

123

lines of a very regular figure : he was covcrcil with a fine cloth, of a manufacture nltogethcr
now to us, and it was tied on exactly according' to the representation in Valentyn's Account
of Abel Tasnian's Voyage, vol. iii., part 2, page 50 : his hair also was tied in a knot on
the top of his head, hut had no feather in it. SVc returned iinincdiately to the ship, where
we could hear the people on shore talking with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone,
probably about what had happened, and what should bo done *.

In the morning, wo saw several of the natives where they had been seen the night before,
and some walking with a quick pace towards tho place where we had landed, most of them
unarmed ; but three or four with long pikes in their han<ls. As I was desirous to establish
an intercourse with them, I ordered three boats to bo manned with seamen and marines,
and proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other
gentlemen, and Tupia ; about fifty of them seemed to wait for our lauding, on the opposite
side of the river, which we thought a sign of fear, and seated themselves Jipon the ground :
at first, therefore, myself, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, landed from tho
little boat, and advanced towards them ; but we had not proceeded many ])accs before they
all started up, and every man produced either a long pike, or a small weapon of green tale,
extremely well polished, about a foot long, and thick enough to weigh four or five pounds :
Tupia called to them in the language of Otaheitc ; but they answered only by flourishing
their weapons, and making signs to us to depart ; a musket was then fired wide of them,
and the ball struck the water, tho river being still between us ; they saw the effect, and
desisted from their threats : but we thought it prudent to retreat till the marines could bo
lauded. This was soon done ; and they marched, with a jack carried before them, to a
little bank, about fifty yards from tho water-side ; here they were drawn up, and I again
advanced, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; Tupia, Mr. Green, and Mr. Monkhouse,
being with us. Tupia was again directed to speak to them, and it was with great pleasure
that we perceived ho was perfectly understood, he and tiie natives speaking only different
dialects of the same language. Ho told them that we wanted jirovision and v/ater, and
would give them iron in exchange, the properties of which he explained as well as he was
able. They were willing to trade, and desired that wo would come over to them for that
purpose : to this we consented, provided they would lay by their arms ; which, however,
they could by no means be persuaded to do. During this conversation, Tupia warned us
to be upon our guard, for that they were not our friends : we then pressed them in our turn
to come over to us ; and at last one of them stripped himself, and swam over without his
arms : he was almost immediately followed by two more, and soon after by most of the rest,
to the number of twenty or thirty ; but those brought their arms with them. We made

■'

* Mr. Pulack, in liis " Narrative of Travels and Ad-
vi'Mtnrca during a residence in New Zealand lictwcen tlio
years 1831 and llli)7," gives tlic following particulars
respecting tliis affair : — " In relating Cook's transactions
in this bay, I must also mention the account given nio by
Manutai, grandson of To Ratu, a principal chief, wlio
headed tlic attack on tlic Englishmen, and was tho first
native liillcd by Europeans, which was done in self-de-
fence. It appears that the tribes who now assaulted Cook
had not been long in possession of tho land, as they were
originally a party of strangers from the southward, who
had made war on the inhabitants of the ]ilnce, and had
defeated and destroyed thciu. This decisive battle had
taken jihice but a very few years previously to the arrival
of Cook, and To Katu had been one of the principal war-
riors. Anotlicr chief was shot in the shoulder ; this man
recovered, and had died within a few years previously to
my visiting those localities in I83C. I saw the son of
tliis wounded warrior, an elderly man, who pointed ont to
mc, on his body, the spot whero tho ball had passed
through tho shoulders of his father. Cook's sliip was at
first taken lor a bird by the natives ; and many remaiks
passed among tliem as to tiic beauty and size of its wings,
as the sails of this novel sjiccinien in ornitliolopiy were
supposed to be. But on seeing a smaller bird, iinllcdgcd

(without sails) descending into the water, and a number
of party-coloured beings, but apparently in the liuman
shape, also descending, the bird was regarded us a house-
ful of divinities. Nothing could exceed the astonishment
of tlic natives."

When their leader w.as killed, " the manner of his
unseen death was ascribed to !\ thunderbolt from these new
gods ; and the noise made by the disehai-ges of tho
muskets was represented as the watitiri, or thunder, which
accompanies that sublime phenomcMon. To revenge them-
selves was the dearest wish of the tribe ; l)iit how to
arcomplish it with divinities who eoiild kill them at a
distance witlu)ut even approaching to them, was didicult
to determine. Many of tlicse natives obsers'cd that they
felt themselves taken ill by only being particularly looked
upon by these Atuas. It w.is therefore agreed, that, as
these new comers could bewitch with a single look, tho
sooner their society was dismissed, tho better it would bo
for the general welfare."

This accounts for the determined hostility of the men
in tho boat, mentioned a little further on, one of whom
must have been the person mintioned by Mr. I'olaek, as
shot tlirough tlie shoulders; as, by Cook's account, the two
men shot on the first and second encounter with the
natives, were undoubtedly killed outright. — Ed.

1 il

COOKS FIU8T VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 1700.

tliom a1'. presents of iron and beads ; but tlioy seemed to set littlo vnlito upon cither, particu-
larly tlio iron, not liaving tlio least idea of its use ; so tliat we got notliin); in return but a
few featliera : tlioy oflcred indeed to cxcliango tlieir arms for ours, and when wo refused,
made many nttcni])t8 to snatch theni out of our hands. A» soon as they caniu over, Tupia
repeated his declaration, tliat they were not our friends, and again warned us to bo npon
our guard ; their atteni])ts to snatcti our weapons, therefore, did not succeed ; and wo gave
them to understand by Tupia, that wu should bo obliged to kill them if tlioy ottered any
farther violence. In a few minutes, however, ]SIr. CJreon happening to turn about, one of
them snatched away his hanger, and retiring to a little distance, waved it round his hoad,
with a shout of exultation : tho rust now began to bo extremely insolent, and wo saw moro
coming to join them from the opposite side of tho river. It was therefoio become necessary
to repress them, and Mr. Hanks tired at tho man who had taken tho hanger, with small
shot, at tho distance of about fifteen yards : when tho shot struck him, ho ceased his cry ;
but instead of returning the hanger, continued to flourish it over )iis head, at tho samo time
slowly retreating to a greater distance. Mr. Alonkhouso seeing this, fired at him with ball,
and 'le instantly dropped. U])on this the main body, who had retired to a rock in the
miduic of the river upon tho first discharge, begon to return ; two that were near to tho
man who had been killed, ran up to the body, one seized his weapon of green tale, and tho
other endeavoured to secure the hanger, which Mr. Monkhouso had but just time to provent.
As all that had retired to tho rock were now advancing, three of us discharged our pieces,
loaded only with small shot, upon which they swam back for tho shore ; and w „• perceived,
upon their landing, that two or three of them were wounded. They retired slowly up tho
country, and we reinibarked in our boats.

As we had unhappily experienced, that nothing was to bo done with these people at this
place ; and finding the water in the river to be salt, I proceeded in the boats round the head
of tho bay in search of fresh water, and with a design, if possible, to surprise some of tho
natives, and take them on board, where, by kind treatment and presents, I might obtain
their friendship, and by their means establish au amicable correspondence with their
countrymen.

To my great regret, I found no place where I could land, a dangerous surf evriy wlieve
beating upon tho shore; but I Si\w two canoes coming in from tho sea, one imi^'^r s.'!!, and
the other worked with paddles. I thought this a favourable opportunity to get some of tho
people into my possession without mischief, as those in the canoe were probably fishermen,
and without arms, and I had three boats full of men. I therefore disposed the boats so as
most cflFectualiy to intercept them in their way to the shore ; the people in tho canoe that
was paddled perceived us so soon, that, by making to the nearei.ii land with tlieir utmost
strength, they escaped us ; the other sailed on till she was in the midst of us without
discerning what wo were; but the moment she discovered us, the people on board struck
their sail, and took to their paddles, which they ])lied so briskly that she out-ran the boat.
They were, however, within hearing, and Tupia called out to them to come along-side, and
promised for us that they should come to no hurt : they chose, however, rather to trust to
tlieir paddles than our promises, and continued to make from us with all their power. I
then ordered a musket to be fired over their heads, as the least exceptionable expedient to
accomplish my design, hoping it would cither make them surrender, or leap into the water.
Upon the discharge of the piece, they ceased paddling ; and all of them, being seven in
number, began to strip, as we imagined, to jump overboard : but it happened otherwise.
They immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight ; and when the boat came up,
they began tho attack with their paddles, and with stones and other offensive weapons that
were in tho boat, so vigorously, that we were obliged to fire upon them in our own defence ;
four were unhappily killed, and the other three, who were boys, the eldest about nineteen,
and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water ; the eldest swam with great
vigour, and resisted the attempts of our people to take him into the boat by every eflbrt that
he could make : he was however, at last overpowered, find the other two were taken up
with less difficulty. I am conscious that the feeling of every reader of humanity will cen-
sure mc for having fired upon these unhappy people, and it is impossible that, upon a calm

Oct. lyno.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROrNl) THE WORLD.

125

review, I shotild approve it myself. Tliey cortninly did not deserve dcatli for not clioosinp;
to confide in my jironiises ; or not eonsenting to come on board my boat, ever, if tliej 1..11I
apprelien''ed no danger ; bnt the nature of my service required nie to obtain a knowK 'Ijje of
tlieir country, whicli I could no otherwise eHeet than by forcing; my way into it in a hostilo
iManncr, oi' gaining admit^sion through the confidence antl good-will of the people. I had
al.-eaily tried the power of jjresents without efteet ; and I wa>< now prompted, by my desiro
to ivoid further hostilitic?, to get some of them on board, as the only method left of con-
vini'ing them that we intended tiu-m no harm, and bad it in our power to contribute to their
gratification anii convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly werj not crimin.d ; and
thougii in the 'contest, which I had not the least reasr.n to expect, our victory might bavo
been complete without so great an expense of life ; yet in such situntions, when the command
to fire has been giv:"i, no man can restrain its excess, or ])re8cribe its effect.

As 8«>on as the pom >vretcliei' whom wc bad taken out of the water were in the boat, they
sipiatted down, expecting no di.ubt instantly to bu jmi co death : wo made haste to couvinco
tliem of the contrary, by every method in our power ; wc furnished them with clothes, and
gave them every other testimony of kindness that could remove their fears and engage their
good-will. Those wlio arc acquainted with human nature will not wonder, that the sudden
joy of these young savages at being unexpectedly delivered from the fear of death, and
kindly treated by those wl.om they supposed would bavo been their instant executioners,
surmounted their concern for the friends they had lost, and was strongly expressed in their
countenances and behaviour. Before we reached the ship, their suspicions and fears being
wholly removed, they appeared to bo not only reconciled to their situation, but in high
spirits, and upon being offered some bread when they came on board, they devoured it with
a voracious appetite. They answered and asked many questions, with great appearance of
pleasure and curiosity ; and when our dinner came, they expressed an inclination to taste
every thing that they saw : they seemed best pleased with the salt pork, though we had
other provisions upon the table. At sun-set, they ate another meal with great eagerness,
each devouring a large quantity of bread, and drinking above a quart of water. "NVe then
made them beds upon the lockers, and they went to sleep with great seeming content. In
the night, however, the tumult of their minds having subsided, and given way to reflection,
they sighed often and loud. Tupia, who was always upon the watch to coujfort them, got
up, and by soothing and encouragement, made them not only easy but cheerful ; their
cheerfulness was encouraged so that they sung a song Avith a degree of taste that surprised
us : the tunc was solemn and slow, like those of our Psalms, containing many note? and
semi-tones. Their ccmntcnanccs were intelligent and expressive, and the middlemost, who
seemed to be about fifteen, had an openness in his aspect, and an ease in his deportment,
which were very striking : we found that the two eldest were brothers, and that their
names were TAAnooRANGE and Koikeranoe ; the name of the youngest was Maraoovete.
As we were returning tc the ship, after having taken these boys into the boat, we i)iekcd
up a large piece of pumice-stone floating upon the water ; a sure sign that there either is, or
has been, a volcano in this neighbourhood.

In the morning they all seemed to be cheerful, and ate another enormous meal j after this
we dressed them, and adorned them with bracelets, anklets, and necklaces, after their own.
fashion, and the boat being hoisted ont, they were told that we were going to set them
ashore ; this produced a transport of joy ; but upon perceiving that we made towards our
first landing-place near the river, their countenances changed, and they entreated with great
earnestness that they might not be set ashore .at that place, because they said it was inha-
bited by their enemies, who would kill them and eat them. This was a great disappointment
to me, because I hoped the report and appearance of the boys would procure a favourable
reception for ourselves. I had already sent an officer on shore with the marines and a party
of men to cut wood, and I was determined to land near the place ; not. however, to abandon
the boys, if, when wo got on shore, they should be unwilling to leave us ; but to send a
boat with them in the evening to that part of the bay to which they pointed, and which
they call their home. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, were with me, and upon our
landing with the boys, and crossing the river, they seemed at first to be unwilling to leave

H 'if

i\r

?ii

120

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 17C0.

P-

us ; but at length t'>cy suddenly changed their mind, and, though not without a manifest

struggle and some tears, they took their leave ; when they were gone we proceeded along a

swamp, with a design to shoot some ducks, of which wc saw great plenty, and four of the

marines attended us, walking abreast of us upon a bank that overlooked the country. After

we had advanced about a mile, these men called out to us and told us, that a large body of

the Indians was in sight and advancing at a great rate. Upon receiving this intelligence wo

drew together, and resolved to make the best of our way to the boats ; wo had scarcely

begun to put this into execution, when the three Indian boys started suddenly from some

bushes, where they had concealed themselves, and again clrimed our protection ; we readily

received tliem, and repairing to the beach as the clearest place, we walked briskly towards

the boats. The Indians were in two bodies ; one ran along the bank which had been quitted

by the marines, the other fetched a compass by the swamp, so that we could not see them :

when they perceived that we had formed into one body they slackened their pace, but still

followed us in a gentle walk ; that they slackened their pace, was for us as well as for them,

a fortunate circumstance ; for when we came to the side of the river, where we expected to

find the boats that were to carry us over to the wooders, we f jund the pinnace at least a

mile from her station, having been sent to pick up a bird which had been shot by the officer

on shore, and the little boat was obliged to make three trips before we could all get over to

the rest of the party. As soon as we were drawn up on the other side, the Indians came

down, not in a body as wo expected, but by two or three at a time, all armed, and in a

short time their number increased to about two hundred : as wo now despaired of making

peace with them, seeing that the dread of our small arms did not keep them at a distance,

and that the ship was too far off to reacli the place with a shot, we resolved to re-embark,

lest our stay should embroil us in another quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives.

We therefore advanced towards the pinnace, which was now returning, when one cf the boys

suddenly cried out that his imcle was among the people who had marched down to us, and

desired us to stay and talk with them ; we complied, and a parley immediately commenced

between them and Tupia ; during which the boys held up everything wo had given them

as tokens of our kindness and liberality ; but neither would cither of the boys swim over to

them, or any of them to the boys. The body of the man who had been killed the day before

still lay exposed upon the beacli ; the boys seeing it lie very near us, went up to it, and

covered it with some of the clothes that we had given them ; and soon after a single man,

unarmed, who proved to bo the uncle of Maragovete, the youngest of the boys, swam ever to

us, bringing in his hand a green branch, which we supposed, as well hero as at Otaheite, to

be an emblem of peace. We received his branch by the hands of Tupia, to whom he gave

it, and made him many presents ; wo also invited him to go on board the ship, but ho

declined it ; we therefore left him, and expected that bis nephew and the two other young

Indians would have staid with him, but to our great surprise, they chose rather to go with

us. As soon as we had retired he went and gathered another green branch, and with tins

in his hand, ho approached the dead body which the youth had covered with part of his

clothes, walking sideways, with many ceremonies, and then throwing it towards him. When

this was done, ho returned to his companions, who had sat down upon the sand to observe

the issue of his negotiation : they immediately gathered round him, and continued in a body

above an hour, without seeming to take any farther notl'^e of us. We were more curious

than they, and observing them with our gbisses from on board the ship, wo saw some of

them cross the river upon a kind of raft, or catamarine, and four of them carry off ihe dead

body which had been covered by the boy, and over which his uncle had performed the

ceremony of the branch, upon a kind of bier, between four men ; the other body was still

suffered to remain where it had been first left.

After dinner I directed Tupia to ask the boys if they had now any objection to going
ashore, where we had left their uncle, the body having been carried off, which we understood
was a ratification of peace ; they said, they had not ; and the bo.it being ordered, thoy went
into it with great alacrity : when the boat, in which I had sent two midshipmen, came to
land, they went willingly ashore; but soon after she put off they returncl to the rocks, and
wading into the water, earnestly entreated to be taken on board again ; but the people in

Oct. 1709.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

127

the boat liavinc positive orders to leave them, could not comply. We were very attentive
to what happened on shore, and keeping a constant watch with onr glasses, we saw a man
pass the river upon anotiier raft, and fetch them to a place where forty or fifty of the natives
were assembled, who closed round tlunn, and continued in the same place till sun-set : upon
looking a^^ain, when we saw them in motion, wc could plainly distinguish our three prisoners,
who separated themselves from the ret t, came down to the beach, and having waved their
hands three times towards the ship, ran nimbly back and joined their companions, who
walked leisurely away towards that part which the boys had pointed to as their dwelling-
place ; wo had therefore the greatest reason to believe that no mischief would happen to
them, especially as wc perceived that they went oif in the clothes wo iiad given them.

After it was dark loud voices were heard on shr.e in the bottom of the bay as usual, of
wliich wc could never learn the meaning.

but ho
lor yoimg
go with
with this
art of his
When
observe
in a body
curious
some of
the dead
med the
was still

to going
iderstood
ley went

came to
)cks, and

eople in

CHAPTER II. A DESCRIPTION OP POVERTY BAY, AND THE FACE OP THE ADJACENT COUNTRY.

THE RANGE FROM THENCE TO CAPE TURNAGAIN, ANI> HACK TO TOLAGO J WITH SOME
ACCOUNT OP THE PEOPLE AND THE COUNTRY, AND SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED
ON THAT PART OF THE COAST.

The next morning, at six o'clock, wc weighed, and stood away from this unfortunate and
inhospitable place, to which I gave the name of Poverty Bay, and which by the natives is
called Ta-one-roa, or the Long Sand, as it did not afford us a single article that we wanted,
except a little wood *. It lies in latitude 38" 42' S., and longitude 181" .30' W. ; it is in the
form of an horse-shoe, and is known by an island lying close under the north-cast point. The
two points which form the entrance are high, with steep white cliffs, and lie a league and a
half or two leagues from each other, N. E. by E., and S. W. by W. : the depth of water in
the bay is from twelve to five fathom, with a sandy bottom and good anchorage ; but the
situation is open to the wind between the south and east. Boats can go in and out of the
river at any time of the tide in fine weather ; but as there is a bar at the entrance, no boat
can go either in or out when the sea runs high : the best place to attempt it is on the north-
east side, and it is there practicable when it is not so in any other part. The shore of the
bay, a little within its entrance, is a low flat sand ; behind which, at a small distance, the
face of the country is finely diversified by hills and valleys, all clothed with wood, and
covered with verdure. The country also appears to be well inhabited, especially in the
valleys leading up from the bay, where we daily saw smoke rising in clouds one behind
another to a great distance, till tiie view terminated in mountains of a stupendous height.

The south-west point of the bay I named Young Nick's Head, after Nicholas Young,
the boy who first saw tlie land. At noon it bore N. W. by W., distant about three or four
leagues, and wo were then about three miles from the shore. The main land extended from
N. E. by N. to south, and I proposed to follow the direction of the coast to the southward as
far as the latitude of 40 or 41 ; and then, if I met witli no encouragement to proceed fciLaer,
to return to the northward.

In the afternoon we lay becalmed, which the people on shore perceiving, several canoea
put off, and came within less than a quarter of a mile of the vessel, but could not be persuaded
to come nearer, though Tupia <^xerted all the powers of his lungs and his eloquence upon the
occasion, shouting and promising tliat they should not be hurt. Another canoe was now
seen coming from Poverty Bay, with only four i)eople on board, one of whom we well
remembered to have seen in our first interview upon the rock. This canoe, without stop-
ping, or taking the least notice of tlie others, came directly alongside of the ship, .and with
very little persuasion wc got the Indians on board. Their example was soon followed by the
rest, and we had about us seven canoes, and about fifty men. We made them all presents
with a liberal hand ; notwithstanding which, they were so desirous to have more of our

* The true nnme of this place is Tutnnga ; any eiuidy spot liaving tlio appellation of OnS or Oni, Sund attaclinl
to it, " From tlie valuable ngiicultural imture of tiic country in its vicinity, it merits," says Jlr. Polack, " nny otiicr
iiouio than Poverty,"— Ed

12B

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 17Ca.

, ,' t

commodities, that they sold us everything they had, even the clothes from their backs and
the paddles from their boats. Tliere were but two weapons among them ; these were the
instruments of green talc, which were shaped somewhat like a pointed battledore, with a
short handle and shai'p edges; they were called Patoo-j>atoo, and were well contrived for
close fighting, as they would certainly split the thickest skull at a single blow.

Wiien these people had recovered from the first impressions of fear, which, notwithstand-
ing their resolution in coming on board, had manifestly thrown them into some confusion,
■we inquired after our poor boys. The man who first came on board immediately answered,
that they were unhurt, and at home ; adding, that he had been induced to venture on board
by the account which they had given him of the kindness with which they had been treated,
and the wonders which were contained in the ship. While they were on board they showed
every sign of friendship, and invited us very cordially to go back to our old bay, or to a small
cove which they pointed out, that was not quite so far off; but I chose rather to prosecute
my discoveries than go back, having reason to hope that I should find a better harbour than
any I had yet seen.

About an hour before sun-set, the canoes put oflf from the ship with the few paddles they
had reserved, which were scarcely sufficient to set them on shore ; but, by some means or
other, three of their people were left behind. A' soon as we discovered it, we hailed them,
but not one of them would return to take them on board. This greatly surprised us ; but
wc were surprised still more to observe that the deserted Indians did not seem at all uneasy
at their situation, but entertained us with dancing and singing after their manner, ate their
suppers, and went quietly to bed.

A light breeze springing up soon after it was dark, we steered along the shore under an
easy sail till midnight, and then brought to ; soon after which it fell calm. We were now
some leagues distant from the place where the canoes had left us ; and at day -break, when
the Indians perceived it, they were seized with consternation and terror, and lamented their
situation in loud complaints, with gestures of despair, and many tears. Tupia, with great
difficulty, pjicified them ; and about seven o'clock in the morning, a light breeze springing
up, we continued to stand south-west along the shore. Fortunately for our poor Indians,
two canoes came off about this time, and made towards the ship ; they stopped, however, at
a little distance, and seemed unwilling to trust themselves nearer. Our Indians were greatly
agitated in this state of unc .rtninty, and urged their fellows to come alongside of the ship,
both by their voice and gestures, with the utmost eagerness and impatience. Tupia inter-
preted what they said, and we were much surprised to find that, among other arguments,
tiiey assured the people in the canoes we did not eat men. We now began seriously to
believe that this horrid custom pi'cvailed among them ; for what the boys had said we consi-
dered as a mere hyperbolical expression of their fear. One of the canoes, at length, ventured
to come under the ship's side, and .an old man came on board, who seemed to be a chief,
from the finery of his garment and the superiority of his weapon, which was a Patoo-patoo
made of bone that, as he said, had belonged to a w^hale. He staid on board but a short
time ; and when he went away, he took with him our guests, very much to the satisfaction
both of them and us.

At the time when wc sailed, we were abreast of a point from which the land trends
S.S.W., and which, on account of its figure, I called Cape Table. This point lies seven
leagues to the southward of Poverty Bay, in latitude 39" 7' S., and longitude Hil" 36' W. ;
it is of a considerable height, makes a sharp angle, and appears to be quite flat at the top.
In steering along the shore to the southward of the Cape, at the distance of two or three
miles, our soundings were from twenty to thirty fathom, having a chain of rocks between us
and the shore, which appeared at different heights above the water.

At noon, Cape Table bore N. 20 E., distant about four leagues ; and a small island, which
was the southernmost land in sight, bore S. 70 W., at the distance of about three miles. This
island, which the natives call Teahowray, T named tiio Island of Poktland, from its very
great resemblance to Portland, in the English Channel. It lies about a mile from a point
on the main ; but there appears to he a ridge of rocks, extending nearly, if not quite, from
one to the other. N. 57 E., two miles from the south point of Portland, lies a sunken rock,

Oct. 17Ca.

backs .and
! were the
•e, with a
trivcd for

iri til stand-
confusion,
answered,
! on board
n treated,
jy showed
to a small
proseciito
bour than

idles they
! means or
iled them,
d us ; but
all uneasy
', ate their

! under an
were now
eak, when
snted their
with great

springing

tr Indians,

wwever, at

re greatly

the ship,
ipia inter-
rguments,
sriously to

we consi-
, ventured
)e a chief,
itoo-patoo
a short
atisfaction

Oct. 17C9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

129

md trends
ies seven
» 36' W. ;
t the top.
o or three
etwecu us

upon which the sea breaks with great violence. "We passed between this rock and the land,
having from seventeen to twenty fathom. In sailing along the shore, we saw the natives
assembled in great numbers as well upon Portland island as the main. We could also
distinguish several spots of ground that were cultivated ; some seemed to bo fresh turned
up, and lay in furrows like ploughed land ; and some had plants upon them in different
stages of their growth. We saw also, in two places, high rails upon the ridges of hills, like
what we had seen upon the peninsula at the north-east head of Poverty Bay. As they were
ranged in lines only, and not so as to inclose an area, we could not guess at their use, and
therefore supposed they might be the work of superstition.

About noon another canoe apj)carcd, in which were four men ; she came within about a
quarter of a mile of us, where the people on board seemed to perform divers ceremonies :
one of them, who was in the bow, sometimes seemed to ask and to offer peace, and some-
times to threaten war, by brandishing a weapon that he held in his hand : sometimes also
he danced, and sometimes he sung. Tupia talked much to him, but could not persuade him
to come to the ship.

Between one and two o'clock we discovered land to the westward of Portland, extending
to the southward as far as we could see; and as the ship was hauling round the south end
of the island, she suddenly fell into shoal water and broken p-ound : we had indeed always
seven fathom or more, but the soundings were never twice tlie same, jumping at once from
seven fathom to eleven ; in a short time, however, we got clear of all danger, and had again
deep water under us.

At this time the island lay within a mile of us, making in white cliffs, and a long spit of
low land running from it towards the main. On the sides of these cliffs sat vast numbers
of people, looking at us with a fixed attention ;' and it is probable that they perceived some
appearance of hurry and confusion on board, and some irregularity in the working of the
ship, while we were getting clear of the shallow water and broken ground, from which they
might infer that we were alarmed or in distress : we thought that they wished to take
advantage of our situation, for five canoes were put off with the utmost expedition, full of
and well armed : they came so near, and showed so hostile a disposition by shouting.

men.

brandishing their lances, and using threatening gestures, that we were in some pain for our
small boat, which was still employed in sounding : a musket was therefore fired over them,
but finding it did them no h.arm, they seemed rather to be provoked than intimidated, and
I therefore fired a four-pounder, charged with grape-shot, wide of them : this had a better
effect ; upon the report of the piece they all rose up and shouted, but instead of continuing
the chase, drew all together, and after a short consultation, went quietly away.

Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the land N. W. having a gentle breeze at
N. E. which about five o'clock died away, and obliged us to anchor ; we had one-and-
twcnty fathom, with a fine sandy bottom : the south point of Portland bore S. E. j S.
distant about two leagues, and a low point on the main bore N. i E. In the same direc-
tion with this low point, there runs a deep bay, behind the land of which Cape Table is the
extremity, so as to make this land a peninsula, leaving only a low narrow neck between
that and the main. Of this peninsula, which the natives call Tehakako*, Cape Table is
the north point, and Portland the south. While we lay at anchor, two more canoes came
off to us, one armed, and the other a small fishing-boat, with only four men in her ; they
came so near that they entered into conversation with Tupia; they answered all the ques-
tions that he asked them with great civility, but could not bo persuaded to come on board ;
they came near enough, however, to receive several presents that v^ere thrown to them from
the ship, with which they seemed much pleased, and went away. During the night many
fires were kept upon shore, probably to show us that the inhabitants were too much upon
their guard to be surprised.

About five o'clock in the morning of the 13th, a breeze springing up northerly, wo
weighed, and steered in for the land. The shore here forms a large bay, of which Portland
is the north-east point, and the bay, that runs behind Cape Table, an arm. This arm I had

'(■

* A miatakc for Is'ukukimnm. — Ed.

130

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 17C9.

1 H

■m

a great inclination to examine, bcdauso there apjjearcd to he safe anchorage in it, but not
heino' sure of that, and the wind being right on end, I was uuvvilling to spare the time.
Fcnr-and-twenty fathom was the greatest deptli within Portland, bnt the ground was every-
where clear. Tlie land near the shore is of a moderate height, with white cliffs and sandy
beaches ; within, it rises into mountains, and upon the whole the surface is hilly, for tho
most part covered with wood, and to apjicarance pleasant and fertile. In the morning nine
canoes came after tho ship, but whether witli peaceable or liostilo intentions we could not
tell, for wc soon left them behind us.

In tho evening wc stood in for a place that had tho appearance of an opening, bnt found
no harbour ; we therefore stood out again, and were soon followed by a large canoe, with
eighteen or twenty men, all armed, who, though they could not reach us, shouted defiance,
and brandislied their weapons, with many gestures of mcn.acc and insult.

In the morning wc had a view of the mountains inland, upon which the snow was still
lying : the coimtry near the shore was low and unfit for cult)ire, but in one ])lacc wc per-
ceived a patch of somewhat yellow, which had greatly the aiipearance of a corn-field, yet
was probably nothing more than some dead flags, which are not uncommon in swampy
places : at some distance wo saw groves of trees, which appeared high and tapering, and
being not above two leagues from the south-west cod of the great bay, in which wc had
been coasting for the two last days, I hoisted out the pinnace and long-boat to search for
freshwater; but just as they were about to put off, we saw several boats full of people
coming from the shore, and, therefore, I did not think it safe for them to leave the ship.
About ten o'clock, five of thcso boats having drawn together, as if to hold a consultation,
made towards the ship, having op board between eighty and ninety men, and four more
followed at some distance, as if to sustain the attack : when the first five came within about
a hundred yards of tlie ship, they began to sing their war-song, and brandishing their pikes,
prepared for an engagement. We had now no time to lose, for if wo could not prevent tho
attack, Ave should come under tho unhappy necessity of using our fire-arms against them,
which we were very desirous to avoid. Tupia was, therefore, ordered to acquaint them
that we had weapons which, like thunder, would destroy them in a moment ; tliat v/o
would immediatoly convince them of their power by directing their effect so that th'jy
should not be hurt ; but that if they persisted in any hostile attempt, we should be obliged
to use them for our defence ; a four-pounder, loaded with grape-shot, was then discharged
wide of them, which produced the desired effect ; the reiiort, the flash, and above all, tho
shut, which spread very fiir in the water, so intimidated them, that they began to paddlo
away with all their might : Tupia, however, calling after them, and assuring them that if
they woidd come raiarnied, they sliould bo kindly received; the people in one of the buats
put their arms on board of another, and came under the ship's stern ; we made them several
j)resents, and should certainly have prevailed upon them to come on board, if the other
canoes had not come up, and again threatened us, by sliouting and brandishing their
weapons : at this the people who had come to the ship imarmed expressed great displeasure,
and soon after they all went away.

In the afternoon we stood over to the south point of the bay, but not reaching it before it
was dark, we stood off and on all night. At eight the next morning, being abreast of tho
point, several fishing boats came off to us, and sold us some stinking fish : it was the best
they had, and we were willing to trade with them upon any terms : these people behaved
very well, and wo should have parted good friends if it had not been for a largo canoe, with
two-and-twrnty armed men on board, which came boldly up along-side of the ship. Wo
soon saw that this boat had nothing for traffic, yet we gave them two or three pieces of
cloth, an article which they seemed very fond of. I observed that one man had a black
skin thrown over him, somewhat resembling that of a bear, and being desirous to know
wli.at animal was its first owner, I offered lum for it a ]>iece of red baize, and he seemed
greatlj' pleased with, the bargain, immediately pulling off the skin, and holding it up in tho
boat ; he would not, however, part with it till he had the cloth in his possession, and as
there could be no transfer of property, if with equal caution 1 had insisted upon the same
condition, I ordered the cloth to be handed down to him, upon which, with amaning cool-

Oct. ]7«0.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLR

y.n

iicss, instead of sending np tlic skin, lie began to pack np botli that and the baize, wbieli ho
liad received as the i)nrcbase of it, in a basket, without paying the least regard to my
demand or remonstrances, and soon after, with the fishing-boats, jmt off from the ship; when
t!uy were at some distance, tiiey drew together, and after a short consultation returned ;
the fishermen oflered more fish, whicli, though good for nothing, was pureliased, and trade
was again renewed. Among others who were placed t)ver the ship's side to hand nj) what
we bought, was little Tayeto, Tni)ia's boy ; and one of the rndians, watching his opportu-
iiitj', suddenly seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe ; two of tiu;m held him
down in the forepart of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled her off, the rest of
the canoes following as fast as they covdd ; upon this the marines, who were under arms upon
deck, were ordered to fire. The shot was directed to that j)art of the canoe which was
farthest from the boy, and ratlier wide of her, being willing rather to miss the rowers than
to hurt him : it happened, however, that one man dropped, upon which the others quitted
their hold of the boy, who instantly leajjcd into the water, and swam towards the ship ; the
large canoe immediately pulled round and followed him, but some muskets and a great
gun being fired at her, she desisted from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat
was lowered, and the poor boy taken up unhurt, though so terrified, that for a time ho
seemed to be deprived of his senses. Some of the gentlemen who traced the canoes to shore
with their glasses, said, that they saw three men carried up the beach, who appeared to bo
cither dead, or wholly disabled by their wounds.

To the cape off which this unhappy transaction happened, I gave the name of Cape Kid-
NAPPicRS. It lies in latitude 39" 43', and longitude 182" 24' W., and is rendered remarkable
by two white rocks like haystacks, and the higli white cliffs on each side. It lies S. W,
by W. distant thirteen leagues from the isle of Portland ; and between them is the bay of
which it is the south point, and which, in honour of Sir Edward Ilawke, then First Lord of
the Admiralty, I called IIawkk's Bay. AVe found in it from twenty-four to seven fathom,
and good anchorage. Fiom Cape Kidnappers the land trends S.S.AV., and in this direc-
tion we made our run along the shore, keeping at about a league distance, with a steady
breeze and clear weather.

As soon as 'Tayeto recovered from liis fright, he brought a fish to Tupia, and told him that
he intended it as an offering to his Eatua, or god, in gi'atitudc for his eseajie ; 'Tupia com-
mended his piety, and ordered him to throw the fish into the sea, which was accordingly
done.

About two o'clock in the afternoon, wo passed a small but high white island lying close
to the shore, upon which we saw many houses, boats, and people. The people we concluded
to be fishers, because the island was totally barren ; we saw several people also on shore, in
a small bay upon the main, within the island. At eleven, we brought to till day-light, and
then made sail to the southward, along the shore. About seven o'clock we passed a high
point of land, which lies S.S.W. twelve leagues from Cape Kidnappers : from this point (ho
land trends three- fourths of a point more to the westward ; at ten, wo saw more land open
to the southward, and a^' i?"f^n, t!ie southernmost land that was in sifrht bore S. 31) W.
distant eight or ten leagues, and a high bluff head, with yellowish cliff's, bore W. distant
about two miles : the depth of water was thirty-two fathom. In the afternoon we had a
resh breeze at west, and during the night variable light airs and eahns : in the morning a
gentle breeze sprung up between the N.W. and N.E., and having till now stood to the
southward, without seeing any probability of meeting with a harbour, and the country
manifestly altering for the worse, I thought that standing farther in that direction would bo
attended with no advantage, but on the contrary would be a loss of time that might be
employed with a better prospect of success in examining the coast to the northward ; about
one, tluu-cfore, in the afternoon, I tacked, and stood north, with a fresh breeze at west. 'The
high bluff head, with yellowish cliffs, which we were abreast of at noon, I called Capi;
Tuunagain, because hero wo turned back. It lies in latitude 40' 34' S. longitude 182° Ct't'
W., distant eigliteen leagues S.S. W. and S.S.W. ,^ W. from Cape Kidnappers. The land
between them is of a very unequal lu;ight ; in some places it is lofty next the sea with white
cliffs, in others low, with sandy beaches : the face of the country is not so well clothed with

' )!

■ I }

102

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 1769.

wood as it is about Ilawkc's bay, but looks more like our bigh downs in England : it is,
liowcvor, to all appearance, well inhabited ; for as we stood along the shore, wo saw several
villages, not only in tbe valleys, but on tbc tops and sides of the bills, and smoke in many
other places. Tlie ridge of mountains which has been mentioned before extends to tbe
southward farther tlian we could sec, and was then everywhere chequered with snow. At
night we saw two fires, inland, so very large, that wc concluded they must have been made
to clear the land for tillage ; but however that be, they are a demonstration that the part of
the country whore they appeared is inhabited.

On the 10th, at four o'clock in the morning, Cape Kidnappers bore N. 32 W. distant two
leagues : in this situation we had sixty-two fathom, and when the cape bore W. by N.
distant three or four leagues, we had forty-five fatliom : in the mid-way between the isle of
Portland and the cape wc had sixty-five fathom. In the evening, being abreast of the
peninsula, within Portland island, called Tkrakako, a canoe came off from tliat shore, and
with much difficulty overtook tlie ship; there were on board five people, two of whom
apj)eared to be chiefs, and the other three servants : the chiefs, with very little invitation,
came on board, and ordered the rest to remain in their canoe. We treated them with great
kindness, and they were not backward in exjiressing their satitifaction ; they v/ent down into
the cabin, and after a short time told us that tliey had determined not to go on shore till the
next morning. As the sleeping on board was an honour which we neither expected nor
desired, I remonstrated strongly against it, and told them, that on their iiccount it would not
be j)roper, as the ship would i)robably be at a great distance from where she was then, tbe
next morning : they persisted, however, in their resolution, and as I found it impossible to
get rid of them without turning them by force out of the ship, I complied : as a proper
precaution, however, I proposed to take their servants also on board, and hoist their canoe
into the ship ; they made no objection, and this was accordingly done. The countenance of
one of these chiefs was the most open .and ingenuous of all I have ever seen, and I very soon
j;ave up every suspicion of his having any sinister design : they both examined every thing
they saw with great curiosity and attention, and received very thankfully such little presents
as we made tliem ; neither of them, however, could be pt^rsuaded either to eat or drink, but
their servants devoured every thing tiiey could get with great voracity. We found that
tlieso men had beard of our kindness and liberality to the natives who had been on board
before, yet we thought the confidence they placed in us, an extraordinary instance of their
fortitude. At night I brought to till day-light, and then made sail ; at seven in the morning,
1 brought to again under Caj)o Table, and sent away our guests with their canoe, who
expressed some surprise at seeing tlieniselves so far from home, but landed abreast of the
ship. At this time I saw other canoes putting of from the shore, but I stood away to the
northward without waiting for their coming up.

About three, I passed a remarkable head-land, which I called Gable-End-Fobeland,
from the very great likeness of tlic v/hite cliff at the point to the gable-end of a house : it is
not more remarkable for its fij;urc, tiian for a rock which rises like a spire at a little distance.
It lies from Cape Tabic N. 24 E. distant about twelve leagues. The shore between them
forms a bay, witliin which lies Poverty Bay, at the distance of four leagues from the head-
land, and eight from the Cape. At this place three canoes came off to us, and one man
came on board ; we gave him sonic trifles, and he soon rctuk'ned to his boat, which, with all
the rest, dropped astern.

In the morning I made sail in shore, in order to look into two bays, which appeared about
two leagues to the northward of the Foreland ; the southernmost I could not fetch, but I
anchored in the other about eleven o'clock. Into tiiis bay we were invited by the people on
board many canoes, who pointed to a place where they said there was plenty of fresh water :
I did not find so good a shelter from the sea as I expected ; but tlie natives who came about
us, ap])caring to be of a friendly disposition, I was determined to try whether I could not
get some knowledge of the country here before I proceeded farther to tbc northward.

In one of the canoes that came about us as soon as wc anchored, wo sew two men, who
by their habits appeared to be chiefs : one of them was dressed in a jacket which was orna-
mented, after their manner, with dog's-skin ; the jacket of the other was almost covered

irco.

Oct. 1709.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

in.i

with small tufts of red feathers. Tiiesc men I invited on board, and they entered the ship
with very little hesitation : I gave each of thcin about four y.ards of linen, and a spike-nail ;
with the linen they were much pleased, but seemed to set no value upon the nail. Wo
perceived that they knew what had happened in Poverty Bay, and we had therefore no
reason to doubt but that they would behave peaceably ; however, for further security, Tupia
was ordered to tell them for what purpose we came thither, and to assure them that wo
would offer them no injury, if they offered none to us. In the mean time those who remained
iu the canoes traded with our people very fairly for what they happened to have with them :
the chiefs, who were old men, staid with us till wo had dined, and about two o'clock I put
off with the boats, manned and armed, in order to go on shore in search of water, and tho
two chiefs went into the boat with me. The afternoon was tempestuous, with much rain,
and the surf everywhere ran so high, that although we rowed almost round the bay, wo
found no place where we could land : I determined therefore to return to the ship, wliich
being intimated to the chiefs, they called to the people on shore, and ordered a canoe to bo
sent off for themselves ; this was accordingly done, and they left us, promising to come on
board again in the morning, and bring us some fish and sweet potatoes.

In the evening, the weather having become fair and moderate, tho boats were again
ordered out, and I landed, accompanied by 3Ir. Banks and Dr. Solander. We were received
with great expressions of friendship by the natives, who behaved with a scrupulous attention
not to give offence. In particular, they took care not to appear in great bodies : one family,
or the inhabitants of two or three houses only, were generally placed together, to the number
of fifteen or twenty, consisting of men, women, and children. These little companies sat
upon the ground, not advancing towards us, but inviting us to them, by a kind of beckon,
rooving one hand towards the breast. We made them several little presents ; and in our
walk round the bay found two small streams of fresh water. This convenience, and tho
friendly behaviour of the people, determined me to stay at least a day, that I might fill
3ome of my empty casks, and give Jlr. Banks an opportunity of examining the natural
produce of the country.

V,i'

'f: I

one man
with all

TAKING IN WATKU ON A hUV! BEACH.

In the morning of the Slst, I sent Lieuten9.nt Gore on shore, to superintend the watcrinor,
with a strong party of men ; and they were soon followed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander,
with Tupia, Tayeto, and four others. The natives sat by our people, and seemed pleased to
observe them ; but did not intermix with them : they traded, however, chiefly for cloth, and
after a short time applied to their ordinary occupations, as if no stranger had been among
them. In the forenoon, several of their boats went out a-fishing, and at dinner time every
one repaired to his respective dwelling ; from which, after a certain time, ho returned.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WOULD.

Oct. 17«9.

Tlieso fair appearances oncoiiraged Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to range the bay with very
little precaution, wlicro tlioy found many ])lants, and shot some birds of exquisite beauty.
In their walk, they visited several houses of the natives, and saw something of their manner
of life ; for they sliowcd, without any reserve, everything whicli the gentlemen desired to
880. They were soniotinics foiuid at their meals, which the ap])roach of the strangers never
interrupted. Tlioir food at this season consisted of fish, with which, instead of bread, they
eat the root of a kind of fern, very like that which grows ui)on our commons in England.
Tlieso roots they scorch over the fire, and then bcjit with a stick, till the bark and dry out-
side fall off; what remains is a soft substance, somewhat clammy and sweet, not unpleasing
to the taste, but mixed with three or four times its quantity of strings and fibres, which arc
very disagreeable ; these were swallowed by some, but spit out by the far greater number,
who had baskets under them to receive the rejected part of what bad been chewed, which
had an appearance very like that of tobacco in the same state. In other seasons they have
certainly plenty of excellent vegetables ; but no tame animals were seen among them except
dogs, which were very small and ugly. Mr. Banks saw some of their plantations, where
the ground was as well broken down and tilled as even in the gardens of the most curious
people among us : in these spots were sweet potatoes, coccos or eddas, which are well known
and much esteemed both in the East and West Indies, and some gourds : the sweet potatoes
were planted in small hills, some ranged in rows, and others in quincunx, all laid by a lino
with the greatest regularity : the coccos were planted upon flat land, but none of them yet
appeared above ground ; and the gourds were set in small hollows, or dishes, much as in
England. These plantations were of different extent, from one or two acres to ten : taken
together, there appeared to be from LOO to 20() acres in cultivation in the whrlc bay, though
wc never saw an hundred people. Each district was fenced in, generally with reeds, which
were ])laced so close together that there was scarcely room for a mouse to creep between.

The women were plain, and made themselves more so by painting their faces with red
ochre and oil, which, being generally fresh and wet upon their cheeks and foreheads, was
easily transferred to the noses of tliose wlio thought fit to salute them ; and that they were
not wholly averse to such familiarity, the noses of several of our people strongly testified :
they wore, however, as great coquettes as any of the most fashionable ladies in Europe, and
the young ones as skittish as an unbroken filly : each of them wore a petticoat, under which
there was a girdle, made of the blades of grass highly perfumed, and to the girdle was
fastened a small bunch of the leaves of some fragrant plant, which served their modesty as
its innermost veil. The faces of the men were not so generally painted, yet we saw one
whose whole body, and even his garments, were rubbed over with dry ochre, of which he
kept a piece constantly in his hand, and was every minute renewing the decoration in one
part or another, where he supposed it was become deficient. In personal delicacy they
were not equal to our friends at Otaheitc, for the coldness of the climate did not invite them
so often to bathe ; but we saw among them one instance of cleanliness in which they
exceeded them, and of whicli, perhaps, there is no example in any other Indian nation.
Every house, or every little cluster of three or four houses, was furnished with a privy, so
that the ground was everywhere clean. The offiils of their food, and other litter, were also
piled up in regular dunghills, which probably they made use of at a proper time for manure.

In tins decent article of civil economy they were beforehand with one of the most
considerable nations of Europe ; for I am credibly informed, that, till the year 1760, there
was no such thing as a ])rivy in Madrid, the metropolis of Spain, though it is plentifully
supplied with water. Before that time it was the universal practice to throw the ordure
out of the windows, during the night, into the street, where numbers of men were employed
to remove it, with shovels, from tiie upper parts of the city to the lower, where it lay till it
was dry, and was then carried away in carts, and deposited without the gates. His present
Catholic Majesty, having determined to free his capital from so gross a nuisance, ordered,
by proclamation, that the proprietors of every house should build a privy, and that sinks,
drains, and common sewers sliould be made at the public expense. The Spaniards, though
long accustomed to an arbitrary government, resented this proclamation witii great spirit,
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186

ita being carried into execution. Every class devised sonic ohjeetion a(i[ain-: it, but tlio
physicians bid the fairest to interest the king in tlie preservation of tlic ancient privih'ges of
Iiis people ; for tbey remonstrated, that if the filth was not, as usual, thrown into the streets,
a fatal sickness would probably ensue, because the putrescent particles of the air, whicli
such filth attracted, would then be imbibed by the human body. But this expediint, with
every other that could be thought of, proved unsuccessful ; and the popular discontent then
ran so high, that it was very near producing an insurrection j his majesty, however, at
length prevailed, and Madrid is now as clear as most of the considerable cities in Europe.
But many of the citizens, probably upon the principles advanced by their physicians, that
heaps of filth prevent deleterious particles of air from fixing upon neighbouring substances,
have, to keep their food wholesome, constructed their privies by the kitchen fire.

In the evening, all our boats being employed in carrying the water on board, and
Mr. Banks and his company finding it probable that they should bo left on shore after it
•was dark, by which much time would be lost, whicli they were inipatit 't to employ in
putting the plants they had gathered in order, they applied to the Indirms for a passage in
one of their canoes : they immediately consented, and a canoe was launched for their use.
They went all on board, being eight in number ; but not being used to a vessel tliat required
so even a balance, they unfortunately overset her in the surf: no life, however, was lost ;
but it was thought advisable that half of them should wait for another turn. Mr. Banks,
Dr. Solander, Tupia, and Tayeto embarked again, and without any further accident arrived
safely at the ship, well pleased with the good nature of their Indian friends, who cheerfully
undertook to carry them a second time, after having experienced how unfit a freight they
were for such a vessel.

While these gentlemen wore on shore, several of the natives went oft" to the ship, and
trafficked, by exchanging their cloth for that of Otaheito : of this barter they were for some
time very fond, preferring the Indian cloth to that of Europe : but before night it decreased
in its value five hundred per cent. IMany of these Indians I took on board, and showed
them the ship and her apparatus, at which they expressed equal satisfaction and
astonishment.

As I found it exceedingly difficult to get water on board on account of the surf, I
determined to stay no longer at this place ; on the next morning, therefore, about five
o'clock, I weighed anchor, and put to sea. This bay, which is called by the natives Tegadoo,
lies in the latitude of 38° 10' S. ; but as it has nothing to recommend it, a description of it
is unnecessary.

From this bay I intended to stand on to the northward, but the wind being right against
me, I could make no way. While I was beating about to windward, some of the natives
came on board, and told me that in a bay which lay a little to the southward, being the
same that I could not fetch the day I put into Tegadoo, there was excellent water, where the
boats might land without a surf. I thought it better therefore to put into this bay, where I
might complete my water, and form farther connexions with the Indians, than to keep the
sea. W^ith this view I bore up for it, and sent in two boats, manned and armed, to examine
the watering-place, who confirming the report of the Indians at their return, I came to an
anchor about one o'clock, in eleven fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom, the north point
of the bay N. by E., and the south point S.E. The watering-place, which was in a small
cove a little within the south point of the bay, bore S. by E., distant about a mile. Many
canoes came immediately oflf from the shore, and all traded very honestly for Otaheito cloth
and glass -bottles, of which they were immoderately fond.

In the afternoon of the 23rd, as soon as the ship was moored, I went on shore to examine
the watering-place, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander : the boat landed in the
cove, without the least surf ; the water was excellent, and conveniently situated ; there was
plent)' of wood close to high-water mark, and the disposition of the people was in every
respect such as we could wish.

Having, with Mr. Green, taken several observations of the sun and moon, the mean
result of them gave 180° 47' W. longitude ; but as all the observations made before
exceeded these, I have laid down the coast from the mean of the whole. At noon I took

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 1700.

I }

tlio sun'a meridian altitiido with an astronomical quadrant, which was set up at tho watering-
place, and found the latitude to be 3(^ 22' 24".

On tho 24th, early in the morning, I sent Lieutenant Goro on shore, to superintend the
cutting of wood and filling of water, with a suflicient number of men for both purposes, and
all the marines as a guard. After breakfast I went on shore myself, and continued there
the whole day. ]\[r. Banks and Dr. Sulander also went on shore to gatlier plants, and in
their walks saw seveial things worthy of notice. They met with many houses in the
valleys that seemed to be wholly deserted, the people living on the ridges of the hills in a
kind of sheds very slightly built. As they were advancing in one of these valleys, the hills
on each side of which were very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight of a very
extraordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock, perforated through its whole substance, so
as to form a rude but stupendous arch or cavern, opening directly to the sea : this aperture
was seventy-five feet long, twenty- seven broad, and five-and-forty high, con\nandinga view
of the bay and tho hills on the other side, which were seen through it, and, opening at onco
upon the view, produced an effect hr superior to any of the contrivances of art.

As they were returning to the watering-place in the evening, they met an old man, who
detained them some time by showing them the military exercises of tho country with the lance
and patoo-patoo, which are all the weapons in use. The lance is from ten to fourteen feet
long, made of a very hard wood, and sharp at both ends : the patoo-patoo has been described
already : it is about a foot long, made of talc or bone, with sharp edges, and used as a
battle-axe. A post or stake was set up as his enemy, to which he advanced with a most
furious aspect, brandishing his lance, which he grasped with great firmness ; when it was
supposed to have been pierced by his lance, he ran at it with his patoo-patr ?, and falling
upon the upper end of it, which was to represent his adversary's head, he laid on with great
vehemence, striking many blows, any one of which would probably have split the skull of
an ox. From our champion's fallin'/ upon bis mock enemy with the patoo-patoo, after ho
was supposed to have been piei with the lance, our gentlemen inferred, that in the
battles of this country there is no quarter.

This afternoon we set up the armourer's forge, to repair the braces of the tiller, which
had been broken, and went on getting our wood and water, without suffering the least
molestation from the natives, who came down with diflerent sorts of fish, which we purchased
with cloth, beads, and glass-bottles, as usual.

On the 25th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on shore ; and while they were
searching for plants, Tupia staid with the waterers ; among other Indians who came down
to them w.as a priest, with whom Tupiu entered into a very learned conversation. In their
notions of religion they seemed to agree very well, which is not often the case between
learned divines on our side of the ocean : Tupia, however, seemed to have the most know-
ledge, and he was listened to with great deference and attention by the other. In the course
of this conversiition, after the important points of divinity had been settled, Tupia inquired
if it was their practice to eat men, to which they answered in the affirmative ; but said, that
they ate only their enemies who were slain in battle. On the 26th it rained all day, so that
none of us could go ashore ; and very few of the Indians came either to the watering-place
or the ship.

On the 27th I went with Dr. Solander to examine tho bottom of the bay, but though we
went ashore at two places we met with little worth notice. Tho people behaved very civilly,
showing us everything that we expressed a desire to see. Among other trifling curiosities
which Dr. Solander purchased of them, was a boy's top, shaped exactly like those which
children play with in England j and they made signs that to make it spin it was to be
whipped. Mr. Banks in the mean time went ashore at the watering-place, and climbed a
hill which stood at a little distance to see a fence of poles, which we had observed from the
ship, and which had been much the subject of speculation. The hill was extremely steep,
and rendered almost inaccessible by wood, yet ho reached the place, near which he found
many houses that for some reason had been deserted by their inhabitants. The poles appeared
to be alo it sixteon feet high ; they were placed in two rows, with a space of about six feet
between them, and the poles iu each row were about ton feet distant from each other. The

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

187

lano between tliem wns covered by sticks, tliat were set up sloping towards each other from
tiic top of the poles on each side, like tlio roof of a Iiouse. This rail-work, with a ditcli
that was parallel to it, was carried about a hundred yards down the hill in a kind of curve,
but for what purpose we could not guess. The Indians at the watering-place, at our request,
entertained us with their war-song, in which the women joined, with the most horrid
distortions of countenance, rolling their eyes, thrusting out their tongues, and often heaving
loud and deep sighs ; though all was done in very good time.

On the 2nth we went ashore upon an island that lies to the left hand of the entrance of
the bay, where we saw the largest canoe that wo had yet met with ; she was sixty-eight
feet and a half long, five broad, and three feet six high ; she had a sharp bottom, consisting
of three trunks of trees hollowed, of which that in tho middio was the longest ; tho sido
planks were sixty-two feet long, in one piece, and were not despicably carved in bas-relief ;
the head also was adorned with carving still more richly. Upon this island thero was a
larger house than any wo had yet seen, but it seemed unfinished and was full of chips. Tho
wood-work was squared so even and smooth, that we made no doubt of their having among
them very sharp tools. Tho sides of the posts were carved in a masterly style, though after
their whimsical taste, which seems to prefer spiral lines and distorted faces : as these carved
posts appear to have been brought from some other place, such work is probably of great
v.alue among them. At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, having got on board our
wood and water, and a largo supply of excellent celery, with which the country abounds,
and which proved a powerful antiscorbutic, I unmoored and put to sea.

This bay is called by the natives Tolaoa ; it is moderately large, and has from seven to
thirteen fathom, with a clean sandy bottom and good anchorage ; and is sheltered from all
winds except tlie north-east. It lies in latitude 38° 22' S. and four leagues and a half to
the north of Gable-end Foreland. On tho south point lies a small but high island, so near
tho main as not to bo distinguished from it. Close to the north end of the island, at tho
entrance into the bay, are two high rocks ; one is round, like a corn-stack, but the other is
long, and perforated in several places, so that the openings appear like the arches of a bridge.
"Within these rocks is the cove where we cut wood, and filled our water-casks. Off the
north point of the bay is a pretty high rocky island, and about a mile without it are somo
rocks and breakers. The variation of the compass here is 14° 31' E., and tho tide flows
at the full and change of the moon, about six o'clock, and rises and falls perpendicularly from
five to six feet ; whether the flood comes from the southward or the northward I have not
been able to determine.

We got nothing here by traflic but a few fish and some sweet potatoes, except a few
trifles, which we considered merely as curiosities. We saw no four-footed animals, nor tho
appearance of any, either tame or wild, except dogs and rats, and these were very scarce :
the people eat the dogs, like our friends at Otaheite, and adorn their garments with tho
skins, as we do ours with fur and ermine. I climbed many of the hills, hoping to get
a view of the country, but I could see nothing from the top except higher hills, in a bound-
less succession. Tho ridges of these hills produce little besides fern ; but the sides are most
luxuriantly clothed with wood and verdure of various kinds, with little plantations intermixed.
In the woods we found trees of above twenty different sorts, and carried specimens of each
on hoard ; but there was nobody among us to whom they were not altogether unknown.
The tree which we cut for firing was somewhat like our maple, and yielded a whitish gum.
We found another sort of it of a deep yellow, which we thought might bo useful in dyeino:.
We found also one cabbage-tree, which we cut down for tho cabbages. The country abounds
with plants and the woods with birds, in an endless variety, exquisitely beautiful, and of
which none of us had the least knowledge. The soil both of the hills and valleys is light
and sandy, and very fit for the production of all kinds of roots, though we saw none except
sweet potatoes and yams.

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 1700.

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COAPTKR III. — THE HANOR FHOM TOLAOA TO MKIICUHY HAY, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP MANY
INCIDKNTS THAT IIAl'l'KNKU IIOTII ON llOAni) AND AMiloltK : A UKSCUII'TION OF SKVKUAL
VIKWa KXimilTKD UY THE COUNTRY, ANU OP TUK UKI'I'AIIS, OR FOHTII'IEU VILLAGES
OP Till-. INIIAIIITAXTM.

On Jlonilay, tho .3()tli, about Ihilf an hour after ono o'clock, liaviug made sail again to tlio
northward for about ton hours, with a light brcczi*, I hauled round a small island which lay
cast ono niilo from the north-oast point of tho laud ; from this place I found tho land trend
away N.W. by W. and W.N.W. as fur as I could soo, tliis point being tho easternmost land
on the whole coast. I gave it tho name of East Capi;, and I called tho island that lies oft"
it East Island ; it is of a small circuit, high and round, and a]i])ears white and barren : tho
cape is high, with white clittn, and lies in latitude 37^ 42' MO" S. and longitude 101° W.
Tiio land from Tolaga Hay to East Cape is of a moderate but unequal height, forming several
small bays, in which are sandy bc.ichos : of the inland country we could not see much, tho
weather being cloudy and hazy. The soundings were from twenty to thirty fathom, at tho
distance of about a league from the shore. After we had rounded tho t'apo, wo saw in our
run along the shore a great number of villages and much cultivated land ; tho country in
general appeared more fertile than before, and was low near tho sea, but hilly within. At
six in tho evening, being four leagues to tho westward of East Cape, wo passed a bay which
was first discovered by Lieutenant Ilicks, and which, therefore, I called Hicks'.. Bay. At
eight in the evening, being eight leagues to the westward of the Cape, and three or four
miles from tlio shore, I shortened sail and brought to for tho night, having at this timo a
fresh gale at S.S.E. and squally ; but it soon became moderate, and at two in the morning
we made sail again to the S. W.'as tho land now trended ; and at eight o'clock in tho morning
saw land, which made like an island, bearing west, tho south-westernmost part of tho main
bearing south-west ; and about nine no less than five canoes camo off, in which were more
than forty men, all armed with their country pikes and battle-axes, shouting, and threatening
an attack ; this gave us great uneasiness, and was, indeed, what we did not expect, for we
hoped that the report both of our power and clemency had spread to a greater extent. When
ono of these canoes had almost reached the ship, another of an immense size, the largest

GREAT CANOE OF HICKS S BAY.

we had yet scon, crowded with people who were also armed, put off from the shore, and
came up at a great rate ; as it approached it received signals from the canoe that was nearest
to the ship, and we could see that it had sixteen paddles on a side, beside people that sat,
and others that stood in a row from stem to stern, being in all about sixty men : as they
made directly to the ship, we were desirous of preventing an attack, by showing what wo
could do, and, therefore, fired a gim, loaded with grape-shot, ahead of them : this made
them stop, but not retreat ; a round-shot was then fired over them, and upon seeing it fall
they seized their paddles and made towards the shore with such precipitation that they
seemed scarcely to allow themselves time to breathe. In the evening three or four more

1700.

Nov. mo.

COOK 8 FIRST VOYAt'.E HOUND TlIK WOULD.

ifly

cnnoos caino off nnarnud, but Uicy would not venture witliin n niuskot-sliot of tlio vchsoI.
The ('iipu uiF wliich wu liud been tlirentcnod with IxiutiliticH I called, from tlie busty retreat
of tlio enemy, Cape Wun.vway. It lies in latitude;*' -i-'; longiti'de IJll" -IH'. In tliis
day ^8 run we found that the land, which made like an island in the ni'irning, bearing wcyt,
was 80 : and we gave it the name of Wiiiri; Ihi.and.

At day-break, on the Ist of November, wo counted no less than fivc-and-forty canocR
that were coming from the whore towards tho shij) ; seven of them t.Tine up with us, and
after some conversation with Tupia, sold us some lobsters and muscles, and two conger eels.
These people traded ])retty fairly, but 'vheu tl-.i-y were gono some others came ort' from
another place, who began also to trado fairly ; but after some time they took what was
handed down to them, without making xv.y return ; one of them who had done so, upon
being threatened, began to laugh, and w'.tli many marks of derision set us at defiance, at the
Bamo time putting off tho canoe from the ship ; a musket was then firc<l over bis head, which
brought him back in a more serious mood, and trade went on with u^' .a regularity. At
length, when the cabin and gun-room had got as much as they .tnted, the men were
allowed to come to the gangway and trade for themselves. Unhai)|)ily the same care was
not taken to ])revent frauds as had bien taken before, so that the Indians, finding tliat they
could cheat with impunity, grew insolent again, and proceeded to take greater liberties.
One of the canoes, liaving sold everything on board, pulled forward, and the people that
were in her seeing some linen hang over tho ship's side to dry, one of them, without any
ceremony, untied it, and put it up in his bundle : he was immediately called to, and reqjiired
to return it ; instead of which he let his canoe drop astern, and laughed at us ; a musket
Avas fired over his head, which did not put a stop to his mirth, another was then fired at
liim with small shot, which struck him upon the back ; ho shrunk a little when the shot
liit him, but did not regard it more than one of our men would have done tho stroke of a
rattan : ho continued with great composure to pack up the linen that he had stolen. All
the canoes now dropped astern about a hundred yards, and all set np their song of defiance,
which they continued till tho ship was distant from them about four hundred yards. As
they seemed to have no design to attack us, I was not willing to do them any hurt, yet
I thought their going off in a bravado might have a bad effect when it should bo reported
ashore. To show them, therefore, that they were still in our power, though very much
beyond the reach of any missile weapon with which they were acquainted, I gave the ship
a yaw, and fired a four-pounder so as to pass near them. The shot happened to strike tho
water and rise several times at a great distance beyond tho canoes ; this struck them with
terror, and they ])addled away without once looking behind them.

About two in the afternoon, we saw a pretty high island bearing west from us ; and at
five, saw more islands and rocks to the westward of that, Wo hauled our wind in order to
go without them, but could not weather them before it was dark. I, tlierefore, bore up,
and ran between them and the main. At seven, I wns close under the first, from which
a largo double canoe, or rather two canoes hashed together at the distance of about a foot,
Ui'd covered with boards so as to make a deck, put off, and made sail for tho ship : this was
the first vessel of the kind that we had seen since we left the South Sea Islands. When
she came near, the people on board entered very freely into conversation with Tupia, and
we thought showed a friendly disposition ; but when it was just dark, they ran their canoo
close to the ship's side, and threw in a volley of stones, after which they paddled away.

We learned from Tupia, that the people in the canoe called the island which we were
under Mowtoiiora ; it is but of a small circuit, though high, and lies six miles from tho
mjvin ; on the south side is anchorage in fourteen fathom water. Upon the main land S.W.
by W. of this island, and apparently at no great distance from the sea, is a high round
mountain, which I called Mount Edgecumbe : it stands in the middle of a large plain, and
is, therefore, the more conspicuous ; latitude 37° 59', longitude 183° 7'.

In standing westward, wo suddenly shoaled our water from seventeen to ten fathom ;
and knowing that we were not far from the small islands and rocks which we had seen
before dark, and which I intended to have passed before I brought to for the nifrht, I
thought it more prudent to tack, and spend the night under Mowtohora, where I knew

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Kov. 17(59.

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there was no clanger. It was, indeed, happy for us that wo did so ; for in the niorninfr,
after we had made sail to the westward, we discovered ahead of ug several rocks, some of
which were level with the surface of the water, and some helow it: they lay N.N.E. from
Mount Edgecumbe, one league and a half distant from the island Mowtohora, and about nine
miii 8 from the main. W passed between these rocks and the main, having from ten to
seven fathom water.

This morning, many canoes and much people were seen along the shore : several of the
canoes followed us, but none of them could reach us, except one with a sail, which proved
to be the same that had pelted us the night before. The peoi)le on board again entered
into conversation with Tupia ; but we expected another volley of their cr ^munition, which
was not, indeed, dangerous to anytliing but the cabin windows. They continued abreast
of the ship about an hour, and behaved very peaceably; but at last tlie salute which wo
expected was given : we returned it by firing a musket over tliem, and tliey immediately
dropped astern and left us, perhaps rather satisfied with having given a test of their courage
by twice insulting a vessel so much superior to their own, than intimidated by the shot.

At half an hour after ten, we passed between a low flat island and the main : the distance
from one tc the other was about four miles, and the depth of water from ten to twelve
fathom. The main land between this flat island and Mowtohora is of a moderate height,
but level, pretty clear of wood, and full of plantations and villages. The vilhysfes, which
were larger than any we had yet seen, were built upon eminences near the son, and fortified
on the land side by a bank and ditch, with a high paling within it, which, was carried all
round : beside a bank, ditch, and palisadoes, some of tliem appeared to liave outworks.
Tupia had a noiion th<at the small inclosure of palisadoes, and a ditcli that we had soon
before, were mo/ais or places of worship ; but wo were of opinion that they were forts, and
concluded that these people had neighbouring enemies, and were always exposed to hostile
•attacks. At two o'clock we passed a small high island, lying four miles from a high round
head upon the main. From this head the land trends N.W. as far as can be seen, and iiaa
a rugged and hilly appearance. As the weather was hazy, and the wind blew fresh on the
shore, we hauled ott' for the weathermost isla'-d in sight, which bore from us N.N.E.,
distant about six or seven leagues.

Under this island, which I have called the Mayor, wc spent the night. At seven in the
morning it bore S. 47 E., distant six leagues, and a clus t t of small islands and rocks bore
N. ^ E., distant one league, to which I gave the name of the Court op ALDER^rEN. Tlioy
lie in the compass of about half a league every way, and five leagues from the main, between
which and them lie other islands, most of them barren rocks, of wliich there is great variety :
some of them are as small in compass as the Jlonument of London, but rise to a much
greater height, and some of them are iiihab\t''d. They lie in latitude 8(5° CtT, and at noon
bore S. 60 E,, distant three or four leagues ; and a rock like a castle, lying not far from the
main, bore N. 40 W., at tho distance of one league. The country that wt passed the ninrht
before appeared to be well inhabited, many towns wore in sight, and some huiidredi of largo
canoes lay under them uj»on the beach ; but this day, after having sailed aljout fifteen
leag' 3S, it ap))oared to be barren and dewolate. As far as we had yet coasto.i this country
from Cape Turnagain, the people acknowledged one chief, whom f'oy c'led Ti.ratii, and
to whoso residence they pointed, in a direction that wc thought to be very far inland, but
afterwards found to be otherwise.

About one o'clock, three canoes came oflf to us from the main, with onc-and-twenty :^ion
on board. The construction of these vessels appciired to b(! more simjjle than that of any
wc had seen, they being rothing more than trunks of a single tn^e hollowed by fire, without
any convenience or ornament. Tho reople on board were almoi^t naked, and appeared to
bo of a browner complexion ; yet nak 'd and despicable as they wore, they sung their song
of defiance, and seemed to denounce against us inevitable destruction : they remained,
however, some time out of stone's-throw, and then vi^nturing nearer, w ith loss app(;iranco
of hostility, one of our men went to the ship's sid.-, and was about to hand them a rope ;
this courtesy, however, they thought fit to return by throwing a lance at him, whi'-h having
missed him, tlicy immediately throw another into t'le ship : upon this a musket ..as fired

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

141

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over tliciH, which at once sent them away. About two, we saw a largo opening, or inlet,
for which wc bore up ; wc had now forty-one fathom water, which gradually decreased t(<
nine, at which time we were one mile and a half distant from a high towered rock which
lay near the south point of the inlet : this rock, and the northernmost of the Court of
Aldermen being in one, bearing S. (51 E.

/.bout seven in the evening we anchored in seven fathom, a little within the south entrance
of the bay: to this place we were accompanied by several canoes and people like those we
had seen last, and for some time tliey bciiaved very civilly. While tliiy W(>re hovering
about us, a bird was shot from the shij>, as it wjis swinuniiig upon the water : at this they
showed less surprise than wc expected, and taking up the bird, they tied it to a lishinglino
that was towing astern ; as an acknowledgment for this favour, we gave thrni a piece of
cloth : but notwithstanding this cflFect of our fire-arms, and this interchange of civilities, as
soon as it grew dark, they sung their war-song, and attempted to tow away the buoy of
the anchor. Two or three muskets were then fired over them, but this seemed rather to
make them angry than afraid, and they went away, threatening that to-morrow they would
return with more force, and be the death of us iill ; at the same time sending oflF a boat,
which they told us w"^ going to another part of the bay for assistance.

There was some apicarance of generosity, as well as courage, in acquainting us with the
time when they intended to make their attack, but they forfeited all credit which this
procured them, by coming secretly upon us in the night, when tliey certainly hoped to find
us asleep : upon approaching the ship, tiiey found themselves mistaken, and therefore
retired without speaking a word, supposing that they were too early; after some time, they
came a second time, and being again disappointed, they retired as silently as before.

In the morning, at day-break, they prepared to cfteet by force what they had in vain
attemi)ted by stealth and artifice : no less than twelve canoes came against us with about
a hundred and fifty men, all armed with pikes, lances, and stones. As they could do
nothing till they came very near the ship, Tupia w-as ordered lo expostulate with them, and
if possible divert them from their purpose : during the conversation, they ap[)eared to bo
sometimes friendly and sometimes otherwise ; at length, however, they began to trade, and
we offered to purchase their weapons, which some of them consented to sell : they sold two
very fairly, but having received what had been agreei' upon for the purchase of a third,
they refused to send it up, but offered it for a second price ; a second was sent down, but
the weapon was still detained, and a demand made of a third ; this being refused with some
expressions of displeasure and resentment, the offender, with many ludicrous tokens of
contempt and defiance, paddled his canoe off a few yards from the ship. As I intended to
continue in this place five or six days, in order to make an observation of the transit of
Mercury, it was absolutely necessary, in order to prevent future mischief, to show these
people t' "t we were not to be treated ill with ini))unity; some small shot were therefore
tired at the thief, and a niusket-ball through the bottom of his boat : upon this it was
paddled to about a hundred yards' distance, and to ou'.- great surjirise the people in the other
canoes took not the least notice of their wounded conipanion, though he bled very much,
but retu ned to the shij), and continued to trade with the most perfect indifference and
unconcern. They sold us many moie of their weapons, without making any other attempt
to defraud uh for a considerable time ; at last, however, one of them thought fit to paddle
away with two different pieces of cloth whieh had been given for the same weapon : when
he had got about a hundred yards' distance, and tliougiit liimself secure of his prize, a
nuisket was fii'ed after him, wliich fortunately struck tlie boat just at the water's edge, and made
two holes :" hi>r side; this only incited them to ply their paddNs with greater activity, and
the rest of tiio cauvies also made off with the utmost expedition. As the last proof of our
superiority, therefore, we fired a rouud shot over them, and not a boat stopped till they got
on shore.

About ten o'clock, I went with two boats to soiuid the bay, and look out for a more
convenient anclioring-placo, the master being in one boat and myself in tlie other. We pulled
first over to the north shore, from which some canoes came out to meet us; as we advanced
however, they retired, inviting us to follow them ; but seeing them all armed, I did not

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think it proper to coiiii-Ij': but went towards tlie head of tlie bay, wlicro I observed a village
upon a very high point, fortified in the manner that has been already described, and having
fixed upon an anchoring-place not far from where the ship lay, I returned on board. At
throe o'clock in the afternoon, I weighed, ran in nearer to the shore, and anchored in four
fathom and a half water, with a soft sai.Jy bottom, the south point of the bay bearing E.,
distant one mile, and a river which the boats can enter at low .%ater S.S.E,, distant a railo
and a half.

In the morning, the natives cainc off again to the ship, and wo had the satisfaction to
observe that their behaviour was very different from what it had (jcen yesterday : among
them was an old man, whom we had before remarked for his pruilence and honesty : his
nari.e was Toiava, and he seemed to be a person of a superior ranV ; in tiie transactions of
yesterday morning he had behaved with great propriety and good sense, lying in a small
canoe, always near the ship, and treating those on board as if he neither intended a fraud,
nor suspected an injury : with some persuasion this man and another came on board, and
ventured into the cabin, where I presented each of them witli a piece of Englibh cloth and
some spike-nails. Tliey told us that the Indians were now very much afraid of us ; and on
our part we promised friendship, if they would behave peaceably, desiring only to purchase
what they had to sell upon their own terms.

After the natives had left us, I went witli the pinnace and long-boat into the river with
a design to haul the seine, and sent the master in the yawl to sound the bay and dredge
for fish. The Indians, who were on one side of the river, expressed their friendship by all
the signs they could devise, beckouing us to land among them ; but we chose to go aslioro
on the other side, as the situation was more convenient for hauling the seine and shooting
birds, of which we saw great numbers of various kinds : the Indians, with much persuasion,
about noon, ventured over to us. With the seine we had very little success, catcliing only
a few mullets, neither did we get any thing by the trawl or the dredge, except a few shells ;
but we shot several birds, most of them I'csembling sea-pies, except that they had black
plumage, and red bills and feet. W^hie wo were absent with our guns, the people who
staid by the boats saw two of the Indions quarrel and fight : they began the battle with
their lances, but some old men interposed and took them away, leaving them to decide the
difference, like Englisluiicn, with their fists ; they boxed with great vigour and obstinacy
for some time, but by degrees all retired behind a little hill, so that our people could not see
the event of the combat.

In the morning the long-boat was sent again to trawl in the bay, and an ol.. er, with the
marines, and a party of men, to cut wood and haul the seine. The Indians on shore
api)eared very peaceable and submissive, and we had reason to believe that their habitations
wore at a considerable distance, for wc saw no houses, and found that they slept under the
bushes : the hay is probably a place to which tliey frequently resort in parties to gather
shell-fish, of which it affords incredible plenty ; for wherever wc went, whether upon the
hills or in tlie valleys, the woods or the plains, we saw vast heaps of shells, often many
wagon-loads together, some appearing to be very old, and others recent. We saw no
cultivation in this place, which had a desolate and barren ajipcarance ; the tops of the hills
were green, but nothing grew there, except a large kind of fern, the roots of which the
natives had got together in large quantities, in order to carry away witli them. In the
evening JVIr. Banks walked up the river, which, at the mouth, looked fine and broad, but
at the distance of about two miles was not deep enough to cover the foot ; and the country
inland was still more barren than at the sea-side. Tiie seine and dredge were not more
successful to-day than yesterday, but tiiO Indians in some measure compensated for the
disappointment by bringing us seviial baskets of fish, some dry, and some fiesh dressed ;
it was not indeed of the best, but I ordered it all to bo bought for the encouragement of
trade.

On the 7th, the weather was so bad that none of us left the ship, nor did any of the
Indians come on board. On the fUh, I sent a party of men on .shore to wood and water;
and in the mean time many canoes came off, in one of wliicli was our friend 'J'oiava ; soon
after he was alongside of the ship, he saw two canoes coming from the opposite &i<lc of tho

Nov. 17C9.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

143

bay, upon wliieh he liasted back again to tlio shore with all his canoes, telling us that ho
was afraid of the people who were coming : this was a farther proof that the people of this
country were perpetually committing hostilities against each other. In a short time, how-
ever, he returned, having discovered that the people who had alarmed him were not the
same that he had supposed. The natives that came to the shij) this morning sold us, for a
few ])icces of cloth, as much fish of the mackerel kind as served the whole ship's company,
and they were as good as ever were eaten. At noon, this day, I observed the sun's meri-
dional zenith dist<ince by an astronomical quadrant, which gave the latitude 36" 47' 43''
within the south entrance of the bay.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr went on shore and collected a great variety of plants, alto-
gether tmknown, and not returning till the evening, had an opportunity of observing in
what manner the Indians disposed themselves to pass the night. They iuid no shelter but a
few shrubs ; the women and the children were ranged innermost, or fartliest from the sea ;
the men lay in a kind of half circle round them, and their arms were sit up against the
trees close by them, in a manner which showed that they were afraid of an attack by some
enemy not far distant. It was also discovered that they acknowledged ncithe?- Teratn, nor
any other person as their king : .as in this particular they ditfen d from .all the people that
we had seen upon otlier parts of the coast, we thought it possible that tliey might be a set
of outlaw s, in a state of rebellion against Teratu, .and in that ease they miglit have no
settled habitations, or cultivated Land in any part of the country.

On the 9ti», at day-break, a great number of canoes came on board, loaded with in.ackerel
of two sort's, one exactly the same with those caught in Engltind, and the other somewhat
different : wo imagined the people had taken a largo shoal, and ))rought us .an overplus
which they could not consume ; for thoy sold them at a very low r.ato. They were, how-
ever, very welcome to us ; at eight o'clock, the ship h.ad more fish on bo.ard tli.an all her
people could cat in three days ; and before night, the quantity was so much increased, th.at
every man who could get salt cured as many as would last him a month. After an early
I)reakfa?t, I went ashore, with Mr. Green and ])ro]>er instrunsents, to observe the tr.ansit of
JMercury, ^\t. Banks and Dr. Solander being of the p.arty ; the weather hiid for some time
been very thick, with much r.ain, but tliis day was so favourable th.at not a cloud intervened
during the whole transit. The observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone,
while I was employed in t.aking the sun's altitude to ascertain the time, It canio on .at
7'' 20' .W ,a])parcnt time : according to Mr. Green's observntion, the intfual contact vv.as
at 12'' 8' '>H", tlie external .at 12'' i)' .'55" p. M. And according to mine, the internal con-
tact w.as at 12'^ iV '}4", .and tlio external 12'' U' 48" ; the latitude of tlio place of observ.a-
tion was 3()" 4H' i)'-'. The latitude observed .at noon was 30" 48' 28". The mean of this
.and yesterday's observation gives 3')" 48' .5,V' S. the latitude of the place of observation ; the
variation of tlio cjnipas'^s was 11^ ''' E.

About noon v.-e were alanned 1 y the firing of a great gun from the ship ; jNFr, Gore, my
second lieutena.it, was at this t'aio commaniling officer on board, and the account that ho
gave was this :- — While same small c.ano(s were trading with the people, two very Largo
ones came up, fu.'l of men. one of them luiving on board fort.v-seven, all armed with pikes,
darts, and stones, and apparently with a hostile intention. They a]ipearcd to be strangers,
and to be rather cou'^cious of superiority over us by their numbers, than afraid of any wcajions
which could give us. the superiority over them. Xo attack, ho^Never., was made ; probably
because they learned from the peoidc in the other canoes, with whom they immrdi.itely
entered into coni'ereuee, what kind of an >.'nemy they h.ad to de.al with. After a little tim j
they began to trade, some of them offering tluir arms, arid one of them a sqaaro piece of
cloth, which makes a part of their dress, calh.'d a llaahow. Several of the weapons were
purch.ased ; and Mr. Gore having agreed for a llaahow, sent down the price, which was a
piece of British cloth, and expected )ii>i piu'cha-^e ; but the Iiidia!), as soon as he had got
Mr. f lore's cloth in his possession, refused lo part with his own, and put off the canoe, i'pon
being threatened for this fraud, he jind his conijianions began to sing their war-song in di fi-
ance, and sliook their ])addles : fctill, however, they began no attack, only defyin^r ^Ir. Gore
to take any remedy in his power, which so provoked him that he levelled a musket loaded

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Nov. 1709.

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with l)all at the oftVnder while he was holding the cloth in his hand, and shot him dead. It
would have heen liappy if the effect of a few small-shot had heen tried upon this occasion,
which, upon some others, had been successful.

AVIun the Indian dropp<;d, all the canoes put off to some distance ; but as they did not
go away, it was tliought th(\y might still meditate an attack. To secure, therefore, a safe
passage for the boat, whicli it was necessary to send on shore, a round shot was fired over
their heads, which effectually answered the purpose, and put them all to flight. When an
account of what had happened was brought ashore, our Indians were alarmed, and, drawing
all together, retreated in a body. After a short time, however, they returned, having heard
a more particular account of the affair, and intimated that they tliought the man who had
been killed deserved his fate.

A little before sunset the Indians retired to eat their supper, and we went witli them to
be spectators of the repast. It consisted of fisii of different kinds, among which were lobsters,
and some birds, of a species unknown to us : these were either roasted or baked. To roast
them they fastened them upon a small stick, which was stuck up in the ground inclining
towards their fire ; and to bake them tliey put them into a hole in the ground, with hot
stones, in the same manner as the people of Otaheite.

Among the natives that were assembled upon this occasion, we saw a woman who, after
their manner, was mourning for the death of iier relation. She sat u]wn the ground near the
rest, who, one only excepted, seeined not at all to regard her ; the tears constantly trickled
down her elieeks, and she repeated, in a low, but very mournful voice, words wiiieh even
Tupia did nut at all understand. At the end of every sentence she cut her arn.s, her face,
or lier breast, with a shell that she held in her hand, so that she was almost covered with
l>lood, and was indeed one of the most affecting spectacles that can be conceived. Tlie cuts,
liowever, did not appear to be so deep as are sometimes made uj)on similar occasions, if wo
may judge by the sears which we saw upon tlic arms, thighs, breasts, and cheeks of many of
them, which we were told were the remains of wounds which they had inflicted upon them-
selves as tes>timonic3 of tlieir affection and sorrow.

Tlie next day, I went with two boats, accompanied by I\Ir. Banks and the other gentle-
men, to examine a large river that empties itself into the head of the bay. We rowed about
four or five miles up, and could have gone mucli farther if the weather had been favourable.
It was here wider than at the mouth, and divided into many streams by small flat islands,
which are covered with mangroves, and overflowed at high- water. From these trees exudes
a viscous substance which very much resembles i*esin ; we found it first in small lunij)s upon
the sea-beach, and now saw it sticking to tlie trees, by which we knew whence it came. We
lauded on the east side of the river, wiiere we saw a tree upon which seviTal shags had built
their nests, and here, therefore, we determined to dine. Twenty of the shags were soon
killed, and. being boiled upon the spot, aff'orded us an excellent meal. We then went upon
the hills, from whence I tiiouglu I saw the head of the river. The shore on each side, as
well as the islands in the middle, were covered with niangrovea ; and the sand-banks
abounded in cockles and clams. In many places there wore vock-oysters, and everywhere
jilenty of wild-fowl, principally shags, ducks, cnilews, and tiio sea-pie, that has been
described before. We also saw fish in the river, but of what kind we could not discover.
Tlie country on the east side of this river is, for the most part, barren and destitute of wood ;
but oil the west it has a better aspect, and in some places is adorned with trees, but has i\i
no part the appeara.ice of cultivation. In the entrance of the river, and for two or thr*
miles up, there is good anchoring in four and five fathom water, and places very convenient
for laying a vessel on shore, where tlie tide rises and falls seven feet at the full and change of
the moon. We could not determine whether any considerable stream of fresh wnfor came
into this river out of the country; but we saw a number of small rivulets issn ti m the
adjacent hills. Near the mouth of this river, on the east side, we found a l-tt'.e Indian
village, consisting of small temporary sheds, where we landed, and were received by the
people with the utmost kindness and Iwspitality. They treated us with a fiat shell-fisli t"
a most delicious taste, somewhat like a cockle, which we ate hot from the coals. Near this
place is a high point, or peninsula, jinjecting into the river, and upon it ore the remauis of

Nov. 1769.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

145

a fort, which they call Eppah, or Heppah. Tlio best cnginoor in Europe could not liavo
chosen a situation better adapted to enable a small number to defend themselves against a
greater. The steepness of the cliffs renders it wholly inaccessible from tlie water, whicli
encloses it on three sides ; and, to tlie land, it is fortified by a ditch, and a bunk raised on
the inside. From the top of the bank to the bottom of the ditch is two-and-twenty feet ;
the ditch on the outside is fourteen feet deej), and its breadth is in projjortion. The whole
seemed to have been executed with great judgment; and there had been a row of pickets or

VIEW OF & IIIPPAH, on. KOKTIl'lED VILLAGE.

palisadocs, both on the top of the bank, and along the brink of the ditch on the ou' idc :
those on the outside had been driven very deep into the ground, and were inclined towards
the ditch, so as to project over it ; but of these the thickest posts only were left, and upon
them there were evident marks of fire, so that the place had jn-obably been taken and
destroyed by an enemy. If any occasion should make it necessary for a ship to winter
here, or stay any time, tents miglit be built in this place, which is sufficiently spacious, with
great convenience, and might easily be made impregnable to the whole country.

On tlie eleventh, there was so much wind and rain that no canoe came off; but the long-
boat was sent to fetch oysters from one of the beds ^vhich had been discovered the day
before : the boat soon returned, deeply laden, sind the oysters, which were as good as ever
came from Colchester, and about the same size, were laid down under the booms, and the
ship's company did notliing but oat tliem from the time they came on board till night, when,
as may reasonably be supposed, great part of tlieui were expended ; this, however, gave us
no concern, as we knew that not the boat only, but the ship, might have been loaded, almost
in one tide, as the beds are dry at half ebb.

In the iiioriiintr of 8iinday the l'2th, two <anoes came off full of people whom we had
never seen liefore, but who a}>|)ejir<'d to have In ;'rd of us by the faution which they used in
approaching us. As we invited them to rome alongside with aU the tokens of friendship
that wii roiild sliow, they ventured up, and two of them came on board j the rest traded
very fairly for what they liad : a small canoe also came from the other side of the bay, and
sold us ■ornn very large fish, which they gave us to understand they would have brought
yesterday, having caught tliem tho day before, but that the wind was so higli they eoidd
not ventiin; to sea.

Afti'i' l/reokfast I went with the pinnace and yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and
|.)f. SoiaJider, over to the north side of the bay, to take a view of the country, and two

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fortified villages which wo had discovered at a distance. We landed near the smallest of
them, the situation of which was the most beantifiiUy-romantic that can be imagined ; it
was built upon a small rock, detached from the main, and surrounded at high water. The
whole body of this rock was perforated by a hollow or arch, which possessed much the
largest part of it ; the top of the arch was above sixty feet perpendicular above the sea,
which at high water flowed through the bottom of it : the whole summit of the rock above
the arch was fenced round after their manner ; but the area was not large enough to contain
more than five or six houses : it was accessible only by one very narrow and steep path, by
which the inhabitants, at our approach, came down, and invited us into the place ; but wo
refused, intending to visit a much more considerable fort of the same kind at about a mile's
distance. We made some presents, however, to the women ; and in the mean time we saw
the inhabitants of the town which we were going to coming towards us in a body, men,
women, and children, to the number of about one hundred : when they came near enough
to be heard, they waved their hands, and called out Iloromai ; after which they sat down
among the bushes near the beach ; these ceremonies, we were told, were certain signs of
their friendly disposition. We advanced to the place where they were sitting, and when we
came up, made them a few presents, and asked leave to visit their Ileppah ; they consented
with joy in their countenances, and immediately led the way. It is called Whakretouwa,
and is situated upon a high promontory or point, which projects into the sea on the north side,
and near the head of the bay : two sides of it arc washed by the sea, and these are altogether
inaccessible ; two other sides are to the land : up one of them, which is very steep, lies the
avenue from the beach ; the other is flat and open to the country upon the hill, which is
a narrow ridge : the whole is enclosed by a palisade about ten feet high, consisting ol strong
pales bound together with withes. The weak side next the land is also defended by a double
ditch, the innermost of which has a bank and an additional palisade : the inner palisades are
upon the bank next the town, but at such a distance from tlie top of the bank as to leave
room for men to walk and use their arms, between them and the inner ditch ; the outermost
palisades are between the two ditches, and driven obliquely into the ground, so that their
upper ends incline over the inner ditch : the depth of this ditch, from the bottom to the top
or crown of the bank, is four-and-twenty feet. Close within the innermost palisade is a
stage, twenty feet high, forty feet long, and six broad ; it is supported by strong posts, and
is intendt-l '.s a station for those who defend the place, from which they may annoy the
assailants by darts and stones, heaps of which lay ready for use. Another stage of the same
kind commands the steep avenue from the beach, and stands also within the palisade ; on
this side of the hill there arc some little outworks and huts, not intended as advanced posts,
but as the habitations of peojilc who, for wart of room, could not be accommouatcd within the
works, but who were, notwithstanding, desirous of placing themselves under their protection.
The palisades, as has been observed already, run round the whole brow of the hill, as well
towards the sea as towards the land ; but the ground within having originally been a
mount, tliey have reduced it not to one level, but to several, rising in stages one above the
other, like an ami)hi theatre, each of which is enclosed within its separate palisade; they
communicate witli each otiior by narrow lanes, which might easily be stopped up, so that if
an enemy should force llio outward palisade, he would have others to carry before the place
could be wholly reduced, supposing these places to be obstinately defended one after the other.
Tiie only entrance is by a narrow passage, about twelve feet long, communicating with the
steep nscpiit from the beach : it passes under one of the fighting stages, and, though we saw
nothing like a door or gateway, it may be easily barricaded in a manner that will make the
forcing it a very dangerous and difficult undertaking. Upon the whole, this must be
considered as a i)lacc of great strength, in which a small number of resolute men may
defend tliemsolvcs against all the force which a people with no other arms than those that
are in use here could bring against it. It seemed to be well furnished for a siege with
everything but water ; we saw great quantities of fern-root, which they eat as bread, and
dried fish piled up in heaps ; but wo could not perceive that they had any fresh water
nearer than a brook which runs close under the foot of the hill : whctlier they have any
means of getting it from this place during a siege, or whether they have any mcthoii of

, 17C9.

Nov. 1709.

COOK S FIRST VOYAGE ROUxXD THE WORLD.

storing it witliin the works in gourds or other vessels, wc could not learn ; some resource
they certainly have with respect to this article, an indispensable necessary of life, for other-
wise the laying up dry provisions could answer no purpose. Upon our expressing a desire
to see their method of attack and defence, one of the young men mounted a fighting stage,
which they call Poram, and another went into the ditch : both he that was to defend tlio
place, and he that was to assault it, sung the war-song, and danced with the same frightful
gesticulations that we had seen used in more serious circumstances, to work tliemselvos up
into a degree of that mechanical fury, which, among all uncivilized nations is the necessary
prelude to a battle ; for dispassionate courage, a strength of niiau that can surmount tho
sense of danger, without a flow of animal spirits by wliich it is extinguished, seems to bo
tho prerogative of those who have projects of more lasting importance, and a keener sense
of honour and disgrace than can be formed or felt by men who have few pains or pleasures
besides those of mere animal life, and scarcely any purpose but to provide for the day that
is passing over them, to obtain plunder, or revenge an insult: they will march af;a'nst each
other indeed in cool blood, though they find it necessary to work themselves into passion
before they engage ; as among iis there have been many instances of people who have
deliberately made themselves drunk, that they might execute a project which they formed
when they were sober, but which, while they continued so, they did not dare to undertake.

On the side of the hill, near this inclosure, we saw about half an acre planted with gourds
and sweet potatoes, which was the only cultivation in the bay : under the foot of the jioiiit
upon which this fortification stands, arc two rocks, one just broken oflF from the main, and
the other not perfectly detached from it: they are both small, and seem more proper for
the habitations of birds tlian men ; yet there are houses and places of defence upon each of
them. And we saw many other works of the same kind upon small islands, rocks, and
ridges of hills, on different parts of the coast, besides many fortified towns, wliich appeared
to be much superior to this.

The perpetual hostility in which these poor savages, who have made every village a fort,
must necessarily live, will account for there being so little of their land in a state of c\iUiva-
tion ; and, as mischiefs very often reciprocally produce each other, it may perhaps appear,
that there being so little land in a state of cultivation, will account for their living in
perpetual hostility. But it is very strange, that the same invention and diligence which
have been used in tho construction of places so admirably adapted to defence, almost with-
out tools, should not, when urged by the same necessity, have furnished them with a
single missile weapon except the lance, which is thrown by hand ; they have no contrivance
like a bow to discharge a dart, nor anything like a sling to assist them in throwing a stone ;
which is the more surprising, as the invention of slings, and bows and arrows, is much
more obvious than of the works which these people construct, and both these weapons are found
among much ruder nations, and in almost every other part of tho world. Besides the long
lanco and Patoo-patoo, which have been mentioned already, they have a staff about five feet
long, sometimes pointed like a Serjeant's halbert, sometimes only tapering to a point at one
end, and having the other end broad, and shaped somewhat like the blade of an oar. They
have also another weapon, about a foot shorter than these, pointed at one end, and at the other
shaped like an axe. The points of their long lances are barbed, and they handle them with
such strength and agility, that we can match them with no weapon but a loaded nmsquet.

After taking a slight view of the coimtry, and loading both the boats with celery, which
we found in great plenty near the beach, we returned from our excursion, and about five
o'clock in the evening, got on board the ship. On the 15th, I dailed out of tho bay, and at
the same time had several canoes on board, in one of which was our friend Toiava, wlio said,
that as soon as we were gone he must repair to his Ilcppah or fort, because the friends of
the man who had been shot by Mr. Gore on the 9th had threatened to revenge his death
upon him, whom they had .eproached as being our friend. Oft' the north point of the bay,
I saw a great number of islands, of various extent, which lay scattered to the north-west, in
a direction parallel witli the main as far as I could see, I steered north-east for the north-
easternmost of these islands, but the wind coming to the north-west, I was obliged to
stand out to sea.

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To tlio bay wliich wo bad now left I gave the name of MEnciinY Bay, on account of the
observation which we had made tliorc of tlio tnansit of that planet over the sun. It lies in
latitude 36° 47' S. ; and in the longitude of 184° 4' W. : there arc several islands lying
both to the southward and northward of it, and a small island or rock in the middle of the
entrance : within this island the depth of water nowhere exceeds nine fathom ; the best
anchoring is in a sandy bay, which lies just within the south head, in five and four fathom,
bringing a high tower or rock, which lies without the head, in one with the head, or just
shut in behind it. This place is very convenient both for wooding and watering, and in the
river there is an immense quantity of oysters and other shell-fish : I have for this reason
given it the name of Oystkb River. But for a ship that wants to stay here any time, the
best and safest place is in the river at the head of the bay ; which, from the number of man-
grove trees about it, I have called JMangrove River. To sail into this river, the south
shore must bo kept all the way on board. The country on the east side of the river and biiy,
is very barren, its only produce being fern, and a few other plants that will grow in a poor
soil. The land on the north-west side is covered with wood, and the soil being much more
fertile would doubtless produce all the necessaries of life with proper cultivation : it is not,
however, so fertile as the lands that we have seen to the southward, nor do the inhabitants,
though numerous, make so good an appearance : they have no plantations ; their canoes are
mean, and without ornament ; they sleep in the open air ; and say, that Teratu, whose
sovereignty they do not acknowledge, if he was to come among them, would kill them.
This favoured our opinion of their being outlaws : yet they told us, that they had Heppahs,
or strongholds, to which they retired in time of imminent danger.

We found, thrown upon tlie shore, in several parts of this bay, great quantities of iron-
sand, which is brought down by every little rivulet of fresh water tiiat finds its way from
the country; which is a demonstration that there is ore of that metal not far inland : yet
neither the inhabitants of this place, or any other part of the coast that we have seen, know
the use of iron, or set the least value upon it ; all of them preferring the most worthless and
useless trifle, not only to a nail, but to any tool of that metal.

Before we left the bay, we cut upon one of the trees near the watering-place the ship's
name, and that of the commander, with the date of the year and month when we were there ;
and after displaying the English colours, I took a formal possession of it in the name of his
Britannic Majesty King George the Third.

CnAPTER IV. — THE RANGE FROM MERCURY HAY TO THE DAY OP ISLANDS : AN EXPEDITION
III' THE RIVER THAMES : SOME ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS WHO INHABIT ITS BANKS, AND
THE FINE TIMBER THAT GROWS THERE: SEVERAL INTERVIEWS WITH THE NATIVES ON
DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COAST, AND A SKIRMISH AVITH THEM UPON AN ISLAND.

I CONTINUED plying to windward two days to get under the land, and on the 18th, about
seven in the morning, we were abreast of a very conspicuous promontory, being then in
latitude 30° 26', and in the direction of N. 48 W. from the north head of Mercury Bay, or
Point Mercury, which was distant nine leagues : upon this point stood many people, who
seemed to take little notice of us, but talked together with great earnestness. In about
half an hour, several canoes put oflF from different places, and came towards the ship ; upon
which the people on the point also launched a canoe, and about twenty of them came in her
up with the others. When two of these canoes, in which there might be about sixty men,
came near enough to make tiieniselves heard, they sung their war-song ; but seeing tliat wo
took little notice of it, they tlirew a few stones at us, and then rowed oft" towards the shore.
We hoped that we 1 now done with them, but in a short time they returned, as if with a
fixed resolution to pro \c us into a battle, animating themselves by their song as they had
done before. Tupia, wiiliout any directions from us, went to the poop, and began to expos-
tulate : he told them, that we had weapons which would destroy them in a moment; and
that, if they ventured to attack u.a, we should be obliged to use them. Upon this, they

Nov. 17C9.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

140

flourislied tlieir weapons, and cried out in their Language, " Come on shore, and wo will kill
you all !" Well, said Tupia, but why should you molest us while we are at sea ? as we do
not wish to fight, wo shall not accept your challenge to come on shore ; and here there is no
])retencc for quarrel, the sea being no more your property tliau the ship. Tiiis eloquence of
Tupia, though it greatly surprised us, having given hin» no hints for the arguments he used,
had no effect upon our enemies, who very soon renewed their battery : a musket was then
fired th rough one of their boats, and this was an argument of sufficient weight, for they
immediately fell astern and left us.

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CANOE PLTTINO OFF.

From the point, of which wo were now abreast, the land trends W. i S. near a league,
and then S.S.E. as far as wo could see ; and, besides the ishands that lay without us, we
could see land round by the S.W. as far as N.W. ; but whether this was the main or islands,
we could not then determine : the fear of losing the main, however, made mc resolve to
follow its direction. With this view, I hauled round the point, and steered to the sotith-
ward, but there being light airs all round the compass, wo made but little progress. About
one o'clock, a breeze sprung up at east, which afterwards came to N.E. and we steered along
the shore S. by E. and S.S. E. having from twenty-five to eighteen fathom. At about half
an hour after seven in the evening, having run seven or eight leagues since noon, I anchored
in twenty-three fathom, not choosing to run any farther in the dark, sis I had now land on
both sides, forming the entrance of a strait, bay, or river, lying S. by E. for on that point
we could see no land.

At day-break, on the 19th, the wind being still favourable, we weighed and stood with
an easy sail up the inlet, keeping nearest to the east side. In a short time, two large canoes
came off to us from the shore ; the people on board said, that they knew Toiava very well,
and called Tupia by his name. I invited some of them on board ; and as they knew they
liad nothing to fear from us, while they behaved honestly and peaceably, they immediately
complied : I made each of them some presents, and dismissed them much gratified. Other
canoes afterwards came up to us from a different side of the bay ; and the people on board
of these also mentioned the name of Toiava, and sent a young man into the ship, who told
us he was his grandson, and he also was dismissed with a present. After having run about
five leagues from the place where we had anchored the night before, our depth of water
gradually decreased to six fathom ; and not cho9,sing to go into less, as it was tide of flood,
and the wind blew right up the inlet, I came to an anchor about the middle of the channel,
which is near eleven miles over; after which I sent two boats out to sound, one on one side,
and the other on the other.

The boats not having found above three feet more water than wo were now in, I deter-
mined to go no farther with the ship, but to examine the head of the bay in the boats ; for,
as it appeared to run a good way inland, I thought this a favourable opportunity to examine
the interior part of the country, and its produce. At day -break, therefore, I set out in the
pinnace and long-boat, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia ; and we found
the iulet end in a river, about nine miles above the ship : into this river we entered with the

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

Nov. 17(59.

first of tlio flooil, and within thrco miles found the water perfectly fresh. Before wo had
proceeded more than one-third of that distance, wo found an Indian town, which was built
upon a small bank of dry sand, but entirely surrounded by a deep mud, which possibly the
inh.abitants might consider as a defence. Theao people, as soon as they saw us, thronged to
the banks, and invited us on shore. We accepted the invitation, and made them a visit,
notwithstanding the nmd. They received us with open arms, having heard of us from our
good old friend Toiava ; but our stay could not be long, as we had other objects of curiosity
in view. We proceeded up the river till near noon, when wo were fourteen miles within its
entrance ; and then, finding the face of the country to continue nearly the same, without
any alteration in the course of the stream, which we had no hope of tracing to its source,
we landed on the west side, to take a view of the lofty trees which everywhere adorned its
banks. They were of a kind that wo had seen before, though only at a distance, both in
Poverty Bay and Ilawke's Bay. Before we had walked a hundred yards into the wood,
we met with one of them which was nineteen feet eight inches in the girt, at the height of
six feet above tho ground : having a quadrant with me, I measured its height from the root
to the first branch, and found it to bo eighty-nine feet : it was as straight as an arroAV, and
tapered but very little in proportion to its height j so that I judged there were three hundred
and fifty-six feet of solid timber in it, exclusive of the branches. As we advanced we saw
many others that were still larger ; we cut down a young one, and the wood proved heavy
and solid, not fit for masts, but such as would make tho finest plank in the world. Our
carpenter, who was with us, said that tho timber resembled that of the pitch-pine, which
is lightened by tapping ; and possibly some such method might be found to lighten these,
and they would then be such masts as no country in Europe can produce. As the wood was
swampy, we could not range far ; but we found many stout trees of other kinds, all of them
utterly unknown to us, specimens of which we brought away.

The river at this height is as broad as the Thames at Greenwich, and the tide of flood as
strong ; it is not indeed quite so deep, but has water enough for vessels of more than a
middle size, and a bottom of mud so soft that nothing could take damage by running ashore.

About three o'clock we re-embarked, in order to return with the first of the ebb, and
named the river the Thames, it having some resemblance to our own river of that name.
In our return, the inhabitants of the village where we had been ashore, seeing us take
another channel, came off to us in their canoes, and trafficked with us in the most friendly
manner, till they had disposed of the few trifles they had. The tide of ebb just carried us
out of the narrow part of the river into the channel that run up from tho sea before it was
dark ; and wo pulled hard to reach the ship, but meeting the flood, and a strong breeze at
N.N.W., with showers of rain, we were obliged to desist ; and about midnight we nin under
the land and came to a grappling, where wo took such rest as our situation would admit.
At break of day we set forward again, and it was past seven o'clock before we reached the
ship. We were all extremely tired, but thought ourselves happy to be on board, for before
nine it blew so hard that tho boat could not have rowed ahead, and must therefore either
have gone ashore or taken shelter under it. About three o'clock, having the tide of ebb, we
took up our anchor, made sail, and plied down the river till eight in the evening, when wo
came to an anchor again : early in the morning we made sail wiMi first ebb, and kept
plying till the flood obliged us once more to come to an anchor. .ve had now only a

light breeze, I went in the pinnace, accompanied by Dr. Solander, tt he western shore ; but
I saw nothing worthy of notice.

When I left the ship, many canoes were about it ; Mr. Banks th'.refore chose to stay on
board and traffic with the natives ; they bartered their clothes and arms, chiefly for paper,
and behaved with great friendship and honesty. But while some of them were below with
Mr. Banks, a young man who was upon the deck stole a half-minuto glass which was in
the binnacle, and was detected just as ho was carrying it off. Mr. Hicks, who was
commanding-officer on board, took it into his head to punish him, by giving him twelve
lashes with a cat-o'nine-tails ; and accordingly ordered him to be taken to the gangway, and
tied up to tho shrouds. When tho other Indians who wore on board saw him seized, they
attempted to rescue him ; and being resisted, called for their arms, which wei*e handed up

Nov. 1700.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

lol

from tlio canoes, and the people of one of tlicin attempted to come up tlio sliip's side. Tlio
tumult was heard by JMr. Bunks, who, witli Tupia, cauio liawtily upon tlio duck to sec what
had happened. Tlie Indians immediately ran to Tupia, who, finding ]Mr. Ilieks inexorable,
could only assure them, that nothing was intended against the life of their companion ; but
that it was necessary he should suffer some punishment for his offence ; which being explained
to them, they seemed to be satisfied. Tiie punishment was then inflicted, and as soon as
the criminal was unbound, an old man among tlie spectators, who was supposed to be his
father, gave him a hearty beating and sent him down into hin canoe. All tlio canoes then
dropped a-stern, and the people said that they were afraid to come any more near the ship :
after much persuasion, however, they ventured back again, but their cheerful confidence wan
at an end, and their stay was short ; they promised, indeed, at their departure, to return
with some fish, but we saw no more of them.

On the 23d, the wind being contrary, we kept plying down the river, and at seven in the
evening, got without the N.W. point of the inlands lying on the west side of it. Tiic weather
being bad, night coming on, and having land on every side of us, I thought it most advisable
to tack, and stretch in under the point, where wo anchored in nineteen fathom. At five in
the morning of the 24th, wc weighed, and made sail to the N.W. under our courses and
double-reefed topsails, the wind being at S. W. by W. and W. S.W., a strong gale and squally.
As the gale would not permit us to come near the land, we had but a sliglit and distant
view of it from the time when wo got under sail till noon, during a run of twelve leagues,
but wo never once lost sight of it. At this time, our latitude by observation was 36° 15'
20", wo were not above two miles from a point of land on the main, and three leagues and
a half from a very high island, which bore N. E. by E. In this situation we had twenty-
six fathom water ; the farthest point on the main that we could see bore N. W. ; but wo
could perceive several small islands lying to the north of that direction. The point of land
of which we were now abreast, and which I called Point Rodney, is the N. W. extremity
of the river Thames ; for under that name I comprehend the deep bay which terminates in
the fresh-water stream ; and the N. E. extremity is the promontory which we passed when
we entered it, and which I called Cape Colville, in honour of the Right Honourable Lord
Colville.

Capo Colville lies in latitude 36° 26', longitude 184° 27' ; it rises directly from the sea to
a considerable height, and is remarkable for a lofty rock which stands to the pitch of the
point, and may be distinguished at a very great distance. From the south point of this capo
the river runs in a direct line S. by E., and is nowhere less than three leagues broad for the
distance of fourteen leagues above the cape, and there it is contracted to a narrow stream,
but continues the same course through a low flat country, or broad valley, which lies parallel
with the sea-coast, and the end of which we could not see. On the east side of the broad
part of this river the land is tolerably high and hilly ; on the west side it is rather low, but
the whole is covered with verdure and wood, and has the appearance of great fertility,
though there were but a few small spots which had been cultivated. At the entrance of the
narrow part of the river the land is covered with mangroves and other shrubs ; but farther,
there are immense woods of perhaps the finest timber in the world, of which some account
has already been given. In several places the wood extends to the very edge of the water,
and where it is at a little distance, the intermediate space is marshy, like some parts of the
banks of the Thames in England. It is probable that the river contains plenty of fish, for wc
saw poles stuck up in many places to set nets for catching them ; but of what kinds I do not
know. The greatest depth of water that wc found in this river was six-and-twenty fathom,
which gradually decreased to one fathom and a half. In the mouth of the fresh-water
stream it is from four to three fathom, but there are large flats and sand-banks lying before
it. A ship of moderate draught may, notwithstanding, go a long way up this river with a
flowing tide ; for it rises perpendicularly near ten feet, and at the full and change of the moon
it is high-water about nine o'clock.

Six leagues within Cape Colville, under the eastern shore, are several small islands, which,
together with the main, seem to form good harbours ; and opposite to these islands, under
the western shore, lie other islands, by which it is also probable that good harbours may be

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Nov. i7ca.

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fi)rmc(l. But if tlicrc arc no harhoiirs about this river, there is good arifhoring in every part
(if it wliorc tlic depth of water is sufiieicnt ; for it is defended bom tlio sea by a chain of
islands of different extent, which ho cross the mouth of it, and which 1 have, fur that reason,
called Barrirr Islamis : they stretch N.W. and S.E. ten leagues. The south end of the
c'lain !ie« N.E., between two and three leagues from Capo Colvillo ; and the north end lies
N.E., f'jnr leagues and a half from Point Rodney. Point Rodney lies W.N.W., nine
leajrues from Cajjo Colvillo, in latitudo 3(>° 15' S., longitude 184° 53' W.

The natives residing about this river do not appear to be numerous, considering the great
extent of the country. But they arc strong, well-made, and active people, and all of them
paint their bodies with red ochro and oil from head to foot, which wo had not seen before.
Their canoes were largo and well built, and adorned with carving, in as good a taste as any
that we had seen upon the coast.

We continued to stand along the shore till night, with the mainland on one side, and
islands on the other, and then anchored in a bay, with fourteen fathom, and a sandy bottom.
We had no sooner come to an anchor, than we tried our lines, and in a short time caught
near one hundred fish, which the people called sea-bream ; they weighed from six to eight
pounds a-piecc, and consequently would supply the whole ship's company with food for two
days. From the success of our lines here, we called the piaco Bkeam Bay : the two points
that form it lie north and south, five leagues from each other ; it is everywhere of a good
breadth, and between three and four leagues deep : at the bottom of it there appears to be
a rivet of fresh water. The north head of the bay, called Bream Head, is high land, and
remarkable for several pointed rocks, which stand in a range upon the top of it : it may
also be known by some small islands which lie before it, called the Hen and Chickens,
«>ne of which is high, and terminates in two peak-^. It lies in latitude 35° 46' S., and
.it the distance of seventeen leagues and a half from Cape Colvillc, in the direction of
X. 41 W.

The land Iwtween Point Rodney and Bream Head, an extent of ten leagues, is low, and
wooded in tufts, with white sand banks between the sea and the firm lands. We saw no
inhabitants, but many fires in the night; and where there are fires, there arc always
people.

At day-break, on the 25th, we left the bay, and steered along shore to the northward :
we found the variation of the compass to be l^" 42' E. At noon, our latitude was 35° .16' S.,
Bream Head bore south, distant ten miles; and we saw some small islands, to which I
gave the name of the Poor Knights, at N.E. by N., distant three leagues; the northern-
most land in sight bore N.N.W. : we were in this place at the distance of two miles from
the Bhr>re, and had twenty-six fathom water. The country a])j)eared low, but well covered
with wood : we saw some straggling houses, three or four fortified towns, and near them
a large quantity of cultivated laud. In the evening, seven large canoes came off to us, with
about two hundred men : some of them came on board, and said that they had heard of us.
To two of them, who appeared to be chiefs, I gave presents ; but when these were gone
out of the ship, the others became exceedingly troublesome. Some of those in the canoes
began to trade, and, according to their custom, to cheat, by refusing to deliver what had
been bought, after they had received the price : among these was one who had received an
old ])air of black breeches, which, upon r^ few small shot being fired at him, he threw into
tile sea. All the boats soon after paddled off to some distance, and when they thought
they were out of reach, they began to defy us, by singing their song, and brandishing their
weapon'?. We thought it advisable to intimidate them, as well for their sakes as our own,
and therefore fired first some small arms, and then round shot over their heads ; the last
put them in a terrible fright, though they received no damage, except by overheating them-
selves in |).iddling aw.iy, which they did with astonishing expedition.

In the night we had variable Jight airs ; but tow.trds the morning, a breeze sprung up at
S., and afterwards at S.E., with which wo proceeded slowly to the nortiiward, ahmg the
shore. Between six and seven o'clock, two canoes came off, and told us that tlmy had
heard of yesterday's adventure, notwithstanding which the peo]>le came on board, and
traded very quietly and honestly for whatever they had : soon after, two canoes came off

up at
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Nov.irOO.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

153

from a more distant part of the sliore ; these were of a miicli larger size and full of people :
wlien tlicy came near, tlity called oft" tlie other canoes whicli were alongside of the ship,
and after a short conference they all came up together. Tiic strangers appeared to be
])er3on8 of a superior rank ; tiicir canoes were well carved witi i many ornaments, and they
iiad with them a great variety of weapons: they had patoo-pa'ioos l)oth of stone and whale-
bone, upon which they appeared to set a great value ; tliey had also ribs of whale, of wnich
we had befiire seen imitations in wood, carved and adorned with tufts of dog's hair. Their
complexions were browner than those of tlie people we had seen to the southward, and their
bodies and faces were more marked with the black stains which tliey call Amoco : they
had a broad spiral on each buttock ; and the thighs of many of them were almost entirely
black, some narrow lines only being left untouched, so that at first sight they appeared to
wear striped breeches. With respect to the Amoco, every diflfcrent tribe seemed to have
a difterent custom ; for all the men, in some canoes, seemed to be almost covered with it,
and those in others had scarcely a stain, except on the lija, which were black in all of them,
without a single exception. These gentlemen, for a long time, refused to part witii any of
their weapons, whatever was offered for them ; at last, however, one of them produced
a piece of talc, wrought into the shape of an axe, and agreed to sell it for a piece of cloth :
the cloth was handed over the ship's side, but his honour immediately put off his canoo
with the axe. Wo had recourse to our usual expedient, and fired a musket-ball over the
canoe, upon whicli it put back to the ship, and the piece of cloth was returned ; all the boats
tlien went ashore, without offering any further intercourse.

At noon, the mainland extended from S. by E. to X.W. by W., a remarkable point of
land bearing W., distant four or five miles; at three we passed it, and I gave it the name
of Cape Bret, in honour of Sir Piercy. The land of this cape is considerably higher tlian
any part of the adjacent coast : at the point of it is a high round hillock, and >].E. by N.,
at the distance of about a mile, is a small high island or rock, which, like several that have
already been described, was perforated quite through, so as to appear like tlie arch of a
bridge. This cape, or at least some part of it, is by the natives called ^loTUGOfiooo, and it
lies in latitude 35° 10' 30" S., longitude 18o° 25' W. On the west side of it is a largo
and pretty deep bay, lying in S.W. by W., in which there appeared to be several small
islands : the point that forms the N.W. entrance, lies W. | N., at the distance of three or
four leagues from Cape Bret, and I distinguished it by the name of Point Pococke. On
the west side of the bay, wc saw several villages, both upon islands and the main, and
several very large canoes came off to us, full of people, who made a better appearance than
any we had seen yet : they were all stout and well made ; their hair, which was black,
was tied up in a bunch on the crown of their heads, and stuck with white feathers. In
each of the canoes were two or three chiefs, whose habits were of the best sort of cloth, and
covered wit!i dog's skin, so as to make a^i agreeable appearance : most of these jjcople were
marked w'tli the Amoco, like those who had been alongside of us before: their manner of
trading v. as also equally fraudulent ; and the officers neglecting either to punish or fright
them, or.e of the midshipmen who had been defrauded iu his bargain, had recourse, for
reveng(!, to an exj/cdient which was equally ludicrous and severe : he got a fishing line, and
when the man who had cheated him was close under the ship's side in his canoe, he heaved
the lead with so good an aim, that the hook caught him by the backside ; he then pulled
the line, and the man holding back, the hook broke in the shank, and the beard was left
sticking in the flesh. During the course of this day, though we did not range more than
six or eight leagues of the coast, we had alongside and on board the ship between four and
five hundred of the natives, which is a proof that this part of the country is well inhabited.
At eight o'clock the next morning, we were within a mile of a group of islands which lie
close under the main, at the distance of two-and-twenty miles from Cape Bret, in the
direction of N.W. by W. i W. At this place, having but little wind, wc lay about two
hours, during which time several canoes came off, and sold us some fish, which we called
Cavalles, and for that reason I gave the same name to the islands. These people were very
insolent, frequently threatening us, even while they were selling their fish ; and when some
more canoes came up, they began to pelt us with stones. Some small-shot were then fired,

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COOKS FIKST VOYAGE ROUND THE U'OllLD.

Nov. 17C9.

and hit ono of tlicm while ho had a stono in his hand, in the very action of throwing it into
the "hip : they did not, liowevor, dcaist, till some othcn had been wounded, and then they
went away, and wc stood off to 8ca.

The wind being directly against us, wo kept plying to windward till the 2Pth, when we
had rather lost than gained ground ; I therefore bore up fur a bay which lies to the west-
ward of '^'iiDO Bret ; at this time it was about two leagues to leeward of us ; and at about
eleven o'clock we anchored under the south-west side uf one of the many islands which lino
it on the south-east, in four fathom and a half water ; wc shoaled our water to this depth
all at once, and if this had not happened, I should not have come to an anchor so soon. Tho
master was immediately sent out with two boats to sound, and he soon discovered that wo
had got upon a bank, which runs out from the north-west end of the island, and that on the
outside of it there was from eight to ten fathom.

In the mean time the natives, to the number of near four hundred, crowded upon us in
their canoes, and some of them were admitted on board : to one, who seemed to bo a chief,
I gave a piece of broad-cloth, and distributed some trifling presents among the rest. I
perceived that some of these people had been about the ship when she was oft' at sea, and
that they knew the power of our fire-arms, for the very sight of a gun threw them inta
manifest confusion : imder this impression, they traded very fairly; but the people in ono
of the canoes took the opportunity of our being at dinner to tow away our buoy : a musket
was fired over them without effect, wo then endeavoured to reach them with somo small
shot, but they were too far oflf : by this time they had got the buoy into their canoe, and
wo were obliged to fire a musket at them with bail : this hit one of them, and they
immediately threw the buoy overboard : a round shot was then fired over them, which
struck the water and went ashore. Two or three of the canoes immediately landed their
people, who ran about the ''>each, as wc imagined, in search of the ball. Tupia called to
them, and assured them that, while they were honest, they should be safe, and with a littlo
persuasion many of them returned to the ship, and their behaviour was such as left us no
reason to suspect that they interdcd to give us any farther trouble.

After the ship was removed into deeper water, and properly secured, I went with the
pinnace and yawl, manned and armed, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr, and
landed upon the island, which was about three-quartei> of a mile distant. We observed
that the canoes which were about the ship did not follov< us upon our leaving her, which wc
thought a good sign ; but wc had no sooner landed than they crowded to different parts of
the island and came on shore. "SVe were in a little cove, and in a few minutes were sur-
rounded by two or three hundred people,
some rushing from behind the heads of tho
cove, and others appearing on the tops of the
hills : they were all armed, but they came on
in so confused and straggling a manner that
we scarcely suspected they meant us any
harm, and we were detenniued that hostili-
ties should not begin on our part. We
marched towards them, and then drew a
line upon tho sand between them and us,
which wo gave them to understand they
were not to pass. At first they continued
quiet, but their weapons were held ready to
strike, and they seemed to be rather irre-
solute than peaceable. While we remained
in this state of suspense, another party of
Indians came up, and now growing more
bold as their number increased, they began
the dance and song, which are their pre-
ludes to a battle; still, however, they
delayed tho attack, but a party ran to each

ME«r ZFJkLAMDF.il, IN WAR COSTUHR, CIVING A t'lUI.LKNliK.

Nov. 1700.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

155

of o«r boats, and attempted to draw tlicni on shore : tins Bcemcd to be the signal, for the
people about us at tlie same time beg.an to press in upon our line. Our situation was now
become too critical for us to remain longer inactive ; I therefore discharged my musket, whicli
was loaded with small-shot, at one of the forwardest, and Mr. Pinks and two of the men fired
immediately afterwards. Tiiis made them fall back in some contuslv-n ; but one of the chiefs,
who was at the distance of about twenty yards, rallied them, and running forward, waving his
patoo-patoo, and calling loudly to his companions, led them to the charge. Dr. So^inder,
whoso piece was not yet discharged, fired at this champion, who stopped short upon feeling
the shot, and then ran away with the rest ; they did not, however, disperse, but got together
upon a rising ground, and seemed oidy to want some leader of resolution to renew their
attack. As they were now beyond the reach of small-shot, we fired with ball ; but as none
of them took place, they still continued in a body, and in this situation wc remained about
a quarter of an hour. In the mean time the ship, from whence a much greater number of
Indians were seen than could be discovered in our situation, brought her broadside to bear,
and entirely dispersed them by firing a few shot over their heads. In this skirmish only
two of the Indians were hurt with the small-shot, and not a single life was lost, whicli
would not have been the case if I had not restrained the men, who, cither from fear or the
love of mischief, showed as much impatience to destroy them as a sportsman to kill his game.
When wo were in quiet possession of our cove, we laid down our arms and began to gather
celery, which grow here in groat plenty. After a little time, wo recollected to have seen
some of the people hide themselves in a cavo of one of the rocks ; we therefore went towards
the place, when an old Indian, who proved to be the chief that I had presented with a piece
of broad-cloth in the morning, came out with his wife and his brother, and in a supplicating
posture put themselves under our protection. Wc spoke kindly to them, and the old man
then told us that he had another brother, who was one of those that had been wounded by
the small-shot, and inquired with much solicitude and concern if ho would die. We assured
him that he would not, and at the same time put into his hand both a musket-ball and some
small-shot, telling him that those only who were wounded with the ball would die, and that
the others would recover ; at the same time assuring him, that if wo were attacked again,
we should certainly defend ourselves with the ball, whicli would wound them mortally.
Having now taken courage, they came and sat down by us, and as tokens of our perfect
amity, we made them presents of such trifles as we happened to have about us.

Soor. after, we rc-embarkcd in our boats, and having rowed to another cove in the same
island, climbed a neighbouring hill which commanded the country to a considerable distance.
The prospect was very uncommon and romantic, consisting of innumerable islands, which
formed as many harbours, where the water was as smooth as a mill-pool. We saw also
many towns, scattered houses, and plantations, the country being much more populous than
any we had seen. One of the towns was very near us, from which many of the Indians
advanced, taking great pains to show us that they were unarmed, and in their gestures and
countenances expressing great meekness and humility. In the mean time some of our
people, who, when the Indians were to be punished for a fraud, assumed the inexorable
justice of a Lycurgus, thought fit to break into one of their plantations, and dig up some
potatoes ; for this oflfence I ordered each of them to be punished with twelve lashes. After
which two of them were discharged ; but the third, insisting that it was no crime in an
Englishman to plunder an Indian ])lantation, though it was a crime in an Indian to defraud
an Englishman of a nail, I ordered him back into his confinement, from which I would not
release him till he had received six lasiics more.

On the 30tli, there being a dead calm, and no probability of our getting to sea, I sent the
master, with two boats, to sound the harbour ; and all the forenoon had several canoes about
the ship, who traded in a very fair and friendly manner. In the evening, we went ashore
upon the main, where the people received us very cordially ; but we found nothing worthy
of notice. In this bay we were detained by contrary winds and calms several days, during
which time our intercourse with the natives was continued in the most peaceable and friendly
manner, they being frequently about the ship, and we ashore, both upon the islands and the
main. In one of our visits to the continent, an old man showed us the instnmient they use

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150

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Dec. 1709.

in tlio staining tlicir bodies, wliicli exactly resembled those that were employed for the same
purpose at Otahcite. Wo saw also the man who was wounded in attempting to steal our
buoy : the ball had passed through the fleshy part of his arm, and grazed his breast ; but tho
wound, under tho caro of nature, tho best surgeon, and a simple diet, the best nurse, was in
a good state, and seemed to give the patient neither pain nor apprehension. We saw also
tho brother of our old chief, who had been wounded with small-shot in our sldrmish : they
had struck his thigh obliquely, and tiiough several of them were still in the flesh, the wound
seemed to bo attended with neither danger nor pain. We found among their plantations the
morug papyrifera, of which these people, as well as those of Otahcite, make cloth ; but here
the plant seems to bo rare, and we saw no pieces of the cloth large enough for any use but
to wear by way of ornament in their ears.

Having one day landed in a very distant part of the bay, the people immediately fled,
except one old man, who accompanied us wherever we went, and seemed much pleased with
tho little presents we made him. We came at last to a little fort, built upon a small rock,
which at liigh water was surrounded by the sea, and accessible only by a ladder : we per-
ceived that he eyed us with a kind of restless solicitude as we approached it, and, vipon our
expressing a desire to enter it, he told us that his wife was there. He saw that our curiosity
was not diminished by this intelligence, and after some hesitation ho said, if we would
promise to offfer no indecency, he would accompany us : our promise was readily given, and
lie immediately led the way. The ladder consisted of steps fastened to a pole, but we found
the ascent both difficult and dangerous. When we entered, we found three women, who, the
moment they saw us, burst into tears of terror and surprise : some kind words and a few
presents soon removed their apprehensions, and put them into good-humour. We examined
the house of our old friend, and by his interest two others, which were all that tho fortification
contained ; and having distributed a few more presents, we parted with mutual satisfaction.

At four o'clock in the morning of the 5th of December, we weighed, with a light breeze ;
but it being variable, with frequent calms, we made little way. We kept turning out of the
bay till the afternoon, and about ten o'clock we were suddenly becalmed, so that the ship
would neither wear nor stay ; and the tide or current setting strong, she drove towards land
so fast that, before any measures could be taken for her security, she was within a cable's
length of the breakers. We had thirteen fathom water, but the ground was so foul that we
did not dare to drop our anchor ; the pinnace, therefore, was immediately hoisted out to take
the ship in tow, and the men, sensible of their danger, exerting themselves to the utmost, and a
faint breeze springing up ofi^ the land, we perceived, with unspeakable joy, that she made
head- way, after having been so near the shore that Tupia, who was not sensible of our hair's-
breadth escape, was at this very time conversing with tho people upon the bciich, whoso
voices were distinctly heard, notwithstanding the roar of tho breakers. We now thought
all danger was over, but about an hour afterwards, just as the man in the chains had cried
" seventeen fathom," the ship struck. The shock threw us all into the utmost consternation ;
Mr. Banks, who had undressed himself, and was stepping into bed, ran hastily up to the
deck, and the man in the chains called out " five fathom ;" by this time, the rock on which
we had struck being to windward, the ship went oflF without having received the least
damiige, and the water very soon deepened to twenty fathom.

Tliis rock lies half a mile W.N.W. of the northernmost or oi'termost island on the S.E.
side of tho bay. Wo had light airs from the land, with calms, till nine o'clock the next morn-
ing, when we got out of the bay ; and a breeze springing up at N.N. W., we stood out to sea.

This bay, as I have before observed, lies on the west side of Cape Bret, and I named it
the Bay of Islands, from the great number of islands which line its shores, and from several
harbours equally safe and commodious, where there is room and depth for any number of
shipping. Tiiat in which wc lay is on the south-west side of tho south-westernmost island,
called Maturaro, on i!ie south-east side of the bay *. I have made no accurate survey of

• The B;iy of Isliiiids lias long been the principal resort
for the whole ships; upwards of thirty of \vhi:;li have been
at anrlior there at the Siimc time, from the ports of (.ireat
nritiiin, America, France, and New Holland ; besides
several tcsbcIb engaged iu other commercial pursuits, who

arc all ccrtiiin to tind ample refreshment. One of tho
principal luissinnar}' estahlishnients is near tho U»y of
Islands, and considerable tracts of thg neighbouring coun-
try are in the hands of English colonists. — Ud.

'ti^a^tep.

Dec. 1709.

COOKS FlllST VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

157

this bay, heing discouraged by the time it would cost mo ; I thought also that it was suffi-
cient to bo able to affirm that it affi)rdcd us good anchorage and refreshmont of every kind.
It was not the season for roots ; but we had plenty of fish, most of which, however, wc
purchased of the natives, for wo could catch very little ourselves either with net or line.
Wiien wc showed the natives our seine, which is such as the King's ships are generally
furnished with, they laughed at it, and in triumph produced their own, which was indoe(l of
an enormous size, and made of a kind of grass, whicli is very strong : it was five fathom
deep, and, by the room it took up, it could not be less than three or four hundred fathom
long ; fishing seems, indeed, to be the chief business of life in this piirt of the country. Wc
saw about all their towns a great number of nets, laid in heaps like hay-cocks, ":.d covered
with a thatch to keep them from the weather ; and we scarcely entered a house where some
of the people were not employed in making them. The fish wc procured here were i^harks,
sting-rays, sea-bream, mullet, mackerel, and some others.

VIEW IN TIIK BAV OF ISLANDS.

The inhabitants in this bav are far more numerous than in any other part of the country
that we had before visited ; "it did not appear to us that they were united under one head,
and though their towns were fortified, they seemed to live together in perfect amity. It is
high-water in this bay at the full and change of the nioon, about eight o'clock, and the tide
then rises from six to eight feet perpendicularly. It appears, from such observations as I was
able to make of the tides upon the sea-coast, that the flood comes from the southward ; and
I have reason to think that there is a current which comes from the westward, and sets
along the shore to the S.E. or S.S.E. as the hind happens to lie.

CHAPTER V. HANGE FROM THE RAY OF ISLANDS ROUND NORTH CAPE TO ai'EEN CUARLOTTE's

SOUND ; AND A DESCRIPTION OF THAT PART OF THE COAST.

On Thursday the 7th of December, at noon, Cape Bret bore S. S. E. ^ E. distant ten
miles, and our latitude, by observation, was W C»\Y S. ; soon after we made^ several observ-
ations of tlic sun and moon, the result of which made our longitude 185° 30' W. The
wind being against us, we had made but little way. In the afternoon, wo stood in shore.

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158

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1760.

■ 1

1 ^ •

iLi'

and fetched close under tlio Cavallcs, from whicli islands the main trends W. by N. ; several
canoes put off and followed us, but a light breeze springing up, I did not choose to wait for
them. I kei)t standing to the W.N.W. and N.W. till the next morning ten o'clock,
when I tacked and stood in for the shore, from which wo were about live leagues distant.
At noon, the westernmost land in sight bore W. by 8. and was about four leagues distant.
In the afternoon, wo had a gentle brcessc to the west, which in the evening came to the
south, and continuing so all night, by day-light brought us pretty well in with tho land,
seven leagues to the westward of the Cavallcs, where wo found a deep bay running in
S.W. by W. and "W.S.W. tho bottom of which we could but just sec, and there the land
appeared to bo low and level. To this bay, whicli I called DornxLESs Bay, ihc entrance
ia formed by two points, which lie W.N.W. and E.8.E. and are five miles distant from
each other. The wind not permitting us to look in here, we steered for the westernmost
land in sight, which bore from us W. N. W. about three leagues ; but before we got tho
length of it, it fell calm.

While we lay becalmed, several canoes came off to us ; but tho people having heard of our
guns, it was not without great difficulty that they were persuaded to come under our stern :
after having bought some of their clothes, as well as their fish, we began to make inquiries
concerning their country, and leanit, by the help of Tupia, that, at the distance of three
days' rowing in their canoes, at a place called Moorewennua, the land wotdd take a short
turn to the southward, and from thence extend no more to the west. This place wo con-
cluded to be the land discovered by Tasman, which ho called Cape JiAniA van Diemen,
and finding these people so intelligent, we inquired farther, if they knew of any country
besides their own : they answered, that they never had visited any other, hut that their
ancestors had told them, that to the N.W. by N. or N.N.W. there was a country of
great extent, called Ulimaroa, to whicli some people had sailed in a very large canoe ;
that only part of them returned, and reported, that after a passage of a month they had
seen a country where the people cat hogs. Tupia then inquired whether these adventurers
brought any hogs with them when they returned ; they said, No. Then, replied Tupia,
your story is certainly false, for it cannot be believed that men who came back from an
expedition without hogs, had ever visited a country where hogs were to be procured. It is,
however, remarkable, notwithstanding the shrewdness of Txipja's objection, that when they
mentioned hogs, it was not by description, but by name ; calling them Booah, the name
which is given them in the South-sea islands ; but if the animal had been wholly unknown
to them, and they had had no communication with people to whom it was known, they
could not possibly have been acquainted with the name.

About ten o'clock at night, a breeze sprung up .at W.N.W. with which we stood off
north ; and at noon the next day, the Cavalles borb S.E., by E. distant eight licngues ; the
entrance of Doubtless Bay S. by W., distant three leagues ; and the north-west extremity
of the land in sight, which wo judged to be tho main, bore N.W. by W. : our latitude by
observation was 34° 44' S. In the evening, we found the variation to be 12" 41' E. by tho
azimuth, and 12" 40' by the amplitude.

Early in the morning, we stood in with the land, seven leagues to the westward of
Doubtless Bay, the bottom of which is not far distant from the bottom of another large bay,
which the shore forms at this place, being separated only by a low neck of land, «»hich juts
out into a peninsula that I have called Knuckle Point. About the middle of this bay,
whicli we called Sandy Bay, is a high mountain, standing upon a distant shore, to which I
gave the name of Mount Camel. Tlie latitude here is 34" .11' S. and longitude 186" 50'.
We had twenty-four and twenty-five fathom water, with a good bottom ; but there seems
to be nothing in this bay that can induce a ship to put into it ; fur the land about it is
utterly barren and desolate, and, except Mount Camel, the situation is low : the soil appears
to be nothing but white sand, thrown up in low irregular hills and narrow ridges, lying
parallel with the shore. But barren and desolate as this place is, it is not without inha-
bitants : wo saw one village on the west side of Mount Camel, and another on the cast side ;
we saw also five canoes full of people, who pulled after the ship, but could not come up with
us. At nine o'clock, we tacked and stood to the northward ; and at noon, the Cavalles

Dkc. 17C0.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

l.V.>

bore S. E. by F,., distant thirteen leagues ; tlic north extremity of the land in sight, making
like an island, bore N. W. | N.. diutnut nine leagues; and Mount Camel bore S. W. by fc>.,
distance six leagues.

The wind being contrary, wo kept plying northward till five o'clock in the cvening|of the
12tli, when, having made very little way, wo tauked and 8t«)od to the N.E., being two
leagues to the northward of Mount Camel, and about a mile and a half from the shore, in
which situation wo had two-and-twenty fathom water. At ten, it began to blow and rain,
which brought us under double-reefed topsails ; at twelve, we tacked and stood to the west-
ward till seven tho next morning, when wo tacked and stood again to the N.E., being
about a mile to windward of the place where wc tacked last night. Soon after, it blew
very hard at N. N. W., with heavy squalls and much rain, which brought us under our
courses, and split the maintopsail ; so tliat wo were obliged to unbend it and bend another :
at ten, it became more moderate, and wo set tho topsails, double-reefed : at noon, having
strong gales and heavy weather, wo tacked and stood to tho westward, and had no land in
sight for the first timo since wo had been upon this coast.

We had now strong gales at W. and W.S.AV. ; and at half an hour post three wo
tacked and stood to the northward. Soon after, a small island lying off Knuckle Point
bore S. ] W., distant half a league. In the evening, having split the fore and mizcn topsails,
wc brought the ship under her courses ; and at midnight, wo wore and stood to the south-
ward till five in the morning; when wc tacked and stood to tho N.W., and saw land
bearing south, at the distance of eight or nine leagues ; by this we discovered that wo had
fallen much to the leeward since yesterday morning. At noon our latitude by observation
was 34° G' S. ; and tho same land which wc hrfd seen before to tho N.W. now boro S.W.,
and appeared to bo the northern extremity of the country. Wc had a large swell rolling
in from the westward, and, therefore, concluded that wc were not covered by any land in
that quarter. At eight in tho evening, wo tacked and stood to the westward, with as
much sail as wc could bear ; and at noon the next day, we were in latitude 34° 10', longi-
tude 185" 45' W., and by estimation about seventeen leagues from the land, notwithstanding
our utmost endeavours to keep in with it.

On the l(>th, at six in the morning, wo saw land from tho mast-head, bearing S.S.W. ;
and at noon it boro S. by W., distant fourteen leagues : while wo were standing in for tho
shore, wc sounded several times, but had no ground with ninety fathom. At eight, wo
tacked in a hundred and eight fathom, at about thrco or four miles from the shore, which
was the same point of land that wo had to the N.W. before wo were blown off. At noon,
it bore S.W., distant about three miles ; ISIount Camel bore S. by E., distant about eleven
leagues, and the westernmost land in sight boro S. 75 W. ; tho latitude by observation was
34° 20' S. At four o'clock, we tacked and stood in shoro, in doing which, we met with a
strong rippling, and tho ship fell fast to leeward, which wc imputed to a current setting
east. At eight, wc tacked and stood off till eight the next morning, when wo tacked and
stood in, being about ten leagues from tho land : at noon, the point of land which we were
near tho day before bore S.S. W., distant five leagues. The wind still continued at west ;
and at seven o'clock, wc tacked in thirty-five fathom, when the point of land which has
been mentioned before bore N.W. by N., distant four or five miles ; so that we had not
gained one inch to windward the last twenty-four hours, which confirmed our opinion that
there was a current to tho eastward. The point of land I called NonTii Cape, it being tho
northern extremity of this country. It lies in latitude 34° 22' S., longitude 186° 55' W.,
and thirty- one leagues distant from Cape Bret, in tho direction of N. (S W. It folms the
north point of Sandy Bay, and is a peninsula jutting out N. E. about two miles, and termi-
nating in a bluff head that is flat at the top. Tho isthmus which joins this head to the
mainland is very low, and for that reason the land of the cape, from several situations, has
tho appearance of an island. It is still more remarkable when it is seen from the south-
ward, by the appearance of a high round island at the S.E. point of the capo ; but this also
is a deception ; for what appears to bo an island is a round hill, joined to the cape by a low
narrow neck of land. Upon tho capo wc saw a Hippah or village, and a few inhabitants ;
and on the south-east sido of it, there appears to be anchorage, and good shelter from the
south-west and north-west winds.

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COOK'S FIRST VOVAOE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1770.

Wc cnntinned to Htind off nnd on, making N.W. till noon on tlio 2lMt, when North Capo
bore S. Hi) E. diittant thirty-ei^ht lunj^ues. Our situiition varied only a Tew leagues till tho
i!3d, when, a>M>ut seven oV-lock in the evening, we saw land from the niaHt-head, bearing
S. ^ K. At eleven the next morning, we saw it again, bearing S.S.K. at the di; iapce of eight
leagues : wc now st(M»d to the 8.W. ; and at four o'clock, tlio land boro S.E. by S. distant
four leagues and proved to be a small island, with other islands or rocks, still smuilcr, lying
off the south-west end of it, and another lying off tho north-east end, which were discovered
by Tasnun, and called the Three Kings. Tho principal i.sland lies in latitude 34° 12' S.,
longitude 187" 4H' W., and distant fourteen or fifteen leagues from tho North Cape, in tho
direction of \v. 14 N. At midnight, wc tacked and stood tu tho N.E. till six tho next
morning, which was Christmas-day, when wo tacked and stood to tho southward. At noon,
tho Tlirco Kings bore E. 8 N. distant five or six leagues. Tho variation this morning by
tho azimuth was 11° 25' E.

On the 26th, we stood to the southward close upon a wind ; and at noon, were in latitudo
35» 10' S., longitude 188° 20' W., tho Three Kings bearing N. 20 W. distant twenty-two
leagues. In this situation wc had no land in sight ; and yet, by observation, wo were in the
latitudo of the Bay of Islands ; and by my reckoning but twenty leagues to the westward
of North Cape : from whence it oppears, that the nortliern part of this island is very narrow;
for otherwise we must have seen some part of the west side of it. We stood to the south-
ward till twelve at night, and then tacked and stood to the northward.

At four o'clock in the morning, the wind freshened, and at nine, blew a storm ; so that
"WC were obliged to bring the ship. to under her mainsail. Our course made good between
noon this day and yesterday was S.S.W. ^ W., distance eleven miles. Tho Three Kings
bore N. 27 E., distant seventy-seven miles. The gale continued all this day, and till two
the next morning, when it fell, and began to veer to the southward and S.W., where it fixed
about four, when we made sail and steered cast in for the land, under the foresail and main-
sail ; but the wind then rising, and by eight o'clock being increased to a hurricane, with a
prodigious sea, we were obliged to take in the mainsail ; we then wore tho ship, and brought
her to with her head to the north-west. At noon the gale was somewhat abated, but we
had still heavy squalls. Our course made good this day was north, a little easterly, twenty-
nine miles ; latitude by account 34° 50' S., longitude 188° 27' W. ; the Three Kings bore
N. 41 E. distant fifty-two miles. At seven o'clock in tho evening, the wind being at S.W.
and S.W. by W., with hard squalb, we wore and lay on the other tack ; and at six tho next
morning, spread more sail. Our course and distance since yesterday was E. by N. twenty-
nine miles. In the afternoon, we had hard squalls at S.W. ; and at eight in the evening,
wore and stood to the N.W. till five tho next morning ; and then wore and stood to tiio
S.E. At six, we saw the Land bearing N.E., distant about six leagues, which wo judged to
be Cape Maria Van Diemen, and which corrcsnoiuled with the account that had been given
of it by the Indians. At midnight we wore and stood to the S.E. And on the next day
at noon, Cape 3Iaria Van Diemen bore N.E. by N., distant about five leagues. At seven
in the evening, we tacked and stood to the westward, with a moderate breeze at S.W. by S.
and S.W. Alount Camel then bore N. 83 £., and the northernmost land, or Cape Maria
Van Diemen, N. by W. ; we were now distant from the nearest land about three leagues,
where we had something more than forty fathom water ; and it must be remarked, that
Mount Camel, which when seen on the other side did not seem to be more than one mile
from the sea, seemed to be but little more when seen from this side ; which is a demon-
stration that the land here cannot be more than two or three miles broad, or from sea
to sea.

At six o'clock in the morning of January the 1st, 1770, being New-year's day, we tacked
and stood to the eastward, the Three Kings bearing N.W. by N. At noon we tacked
again, and stood to the westward, being in latitude 34° 37' S. ; the Three Kings bearing
N.W. by N. at the distance of ten or eleven leagues ; and Capo Maria Van Diemen N. 31° E.,
distant about four leagues and a half: in this situation w^e had fifty-four fathom water.

During this part of our navigation, two particulars are very remarkable ; in latitude
35° S., and in the midst of summer, I met with a gale of wind, which for its strength and

Jan. 1770.

COOK'S FinsT voya(;e uound the m'oklp.

continuance, was such as I liad scarcely cvrr been in before ; and wc wen; tlirco weeks in
getting ten leagues tu the wentward, and five weeks in getting Hfty leagues, for at tliis time
it was* so long since wo passed ( 'ape Hret. During the gale wo were happily at a considerulilo
distance from the land, otherwise it is highly probable that wo should never have returned to
relate our adventures.

At five o'clock in the evening, having a fresh breexn to the wcHtward, wo tacked and
stood to the southward : at this time North (*iipe bore E. .^ N., and just open of a ]>oiiit
that lies three leagues W. by N. from it. Tliis cape, as I have «»lwerved before, is the
northernmost extremity of this country, and the easternmost point of a ])eninsula, which
runs out N.W. and N.W. by N. seventeen or eighteen h'agues, and of wliidi Cape Maria
Van Diemen is the westernmost point. Cape Maria lii-s in latitude ',W ',W S., lonuitutlo
107" 18' W. ; and from this point the land trends away S.E. by S. and S.K. beyond Mount
Camel, and is everywhere a barren shore, consii^ting of banks of white sand.

On the 2nd, at noon, wo were in latitude MiV 17' S., and Cape Maria bore north, distant
about sixteen leagues, as near as we could guess ; for we had no land in Hi<,'ht, and did not
dare to go nearer, as a fresh gale blew right on shore, with a rolling sea. Tiio wind continued
at W.S.W. and S.W., witli frequent stiuails; in the evening wc shortened sail, and at
midnight tacked, and made a trip t<» the N.AV. till two in the morning, when wc wore and
stood to tlie southward. At break of day we made sail, and edged away, in order to make
land ; and at ten o'clock we saw it, bearing N.W. It appeared to be high, and at noon
extended from N. to lO.N.E., distant by estimation eight or ten leagues. Cape Maria then
bore N. 2" 'M' W., distant thirty-three leagues ; our latitude by observation was 'MV' 2' S.
About seven o'clock in the evening, we were within six leagues of it ; but liaving a fresli galo
upon it, with a rolling sea, we hauled our wind to the S.E., antl kept on that course close
upon the wind all night, sounding several times, but having no ground with one hundred,
and one hundred and ten fathom.

At eight o'clock the next morning, wc were about five leagues from the land, and off a
place which lies in latitude 30° 2;*!', and had the appearance of a bay or inlet. It bore east ;
and in order to see more of it, we kept on our course till eleven o'clock, when we were not
more than three leagues from it, and then discovered that it was neither inlet nor bay, but a
tract of low land, bounded by higher lands on each side, which produced the deception. At
this time wo tacked and stood to the N.W. ; and at noon the land was not distant more
than three or four leagues. AVo were now in latitude 'M'f 31' S., longitude Uiii" 50' W.
Cape Maria bore N. 25 W., distant forty-four leagues and a half ; so tliat the coast must bo
almost straight in the direction of S.S.E. | E. and N.N.W. ^ AV. nearly. In about latitude
.Sii" 45' is some high land adjoining to the sea ; to the southward of which the shore is also
high, and has the most desolate and inhospitable appearance that can bo imagined. Nothing
is to be seen but hills of sand, on which there is scarcely a blade of verdure ; and a vast
sen, impelled by the westerly winds, breaking ujiou it in a dreadful surf, renders it not only
forlorn, but frightful ; complicating the idea of danger with desolatiou, and impressing tho
mind at once with a sense of misery and death. From tiiis place I steered to the northw.ard,
resolving never more to come within the same distance of the coast, except the wind should
be very favourable indeed. I stood under a fresli sail all the day, hoping to get an oiling by
the next noon, and we made good a course of a hundred and two miles N. '.i8 W. Our
latitude by observation was 35° 10' S. ; and Cape Maria bore N. 10 E., distance forty-one
miles. In the night, the wind shifted from S.W. by S. to S., and blew fresli. Our course
to the noon of the 5th was N. 75 W., distance eight miles.

At day-break on the (ith, we saw the land, which we took to be Cape Maria, bearing
N.N.E., distant eight or nine leagues ; and on the 7tli, in the afternoon, tlio land bore east :
and some time after we discovered a turtle upon the water ; but being awake, it dived
instantly, so that we could not take it. At noon the high land, which has just been
mentioned, extended from N. to E., at the distance of five or six leagues ; and in two places
a flat gave it the api)earance of a bay or inlet. The course that we made good tiie last
four-and-twenty hours was S, 33 E. fifty-three miles; Cape i\Iaria bearing N. 25 W.,
distant thirty leagues. We ciailed within sight of land all this day, witli gentle gales

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Jan. 1770.

between tlio X.K. aiui N.W. ; nnd hy tlio next noon lin<l Hailed sixty-nino miles in tlio
dinxtiun of S. .17 K. ; our Lititiidu by oliservntion wns .IIP '.W 8. Tlio land wliicb on tlio
4tli we bad taken for a bay, now bore N.E. by N., distant fivo leagues and a lialf ; and
Cape M.iria N. iJjJ W., forty-seven leagues.

On the iltli, wc eontinucd a soutli-east eourso till eigbt oVIoek in tlie evening, baving run
seven leagues «ince noon, witli the wind nt N.N.K. and N., nnd being within thn>e or four
leagues of tho land, which apjteared to bu low and sandy. I then steered S.E. by S. in
a direction parallel with thu coast, having fron. forty-eight to thirty-four fathom water,
with a black sandy bottom. At daybreak tho next morning, wu found ourselves between
two and three leagues from the land, which began to have a better appearance, rising in
gentle slopes, and being covered with trees and herbago. Wu saw a smoko and a few
bouses, but it api^cared to bo but thinly inhabited. At seven o'clock, wc steered S. by E.,
and afterwards S. by W., tho land lying in that direction. At nine, wo were abreast of
a point which rises with an cosy ascent from tho sea to a considerable height : this point,
which lies in latiti.-'c 37' 4.T, I named Wuonv IIkad. About eleven miles from this head,
in the direction of S.W. ^ W., lies a very small island, upon which wo saw a great number
of gannets, and which we, therefore, called Gannkt Island. At noon, a high craggy point
bore E.N.E., distant nl>out a league and a half, to which I gave the name of ALUAxnoss
Poi.NT : it lies in latitude 38° 4' S., longitude 184° 42' W. ; and is distant seven leagues in
the direction of S. 17 ^V', from Woody Head. On the north sido of this point the shore
forms a bay, in which there appears to be anchorage and shelter for shipping. Our course
and distance for the lost twenty ';fot!r hours was S. 3? E., sixty-nino miles ; and at noon
this day Cape Maria bore N. W W., distant eighty-two leagues. Between twelve and one,
the wind shifted at once from N.N.E. to S.S.W., with which wo stood to tho westward till
four o'clock in the afternoon ; and then tacked, and stood again in shore till seven ; when
we tacked again and stood to the westward, having hut little wind. At this time Albatross
Point bore N.E., distant near two leagues, and tho southernmost land in sight bore
S.S.W. ^ W., being a very high mountain, and in appearance greatly resembling the Peak
of Teneriffe. In this situation wc bad thirty fathom water, and having but little wind all
night, wc tacked about four in the morning, and stood in for the shore. Soon after, it fell
calm ; and being in forty-two fathom water, the people caught a few sea-bream. At eleven,
a light breeze sprung up from the west, and we matle sail to the southward. Wc continued
to steer S. by AV., and S.S.W. along the shore, at the distance of about four leagues, with
gentle breezes from between N.W. and N.N.E. At seven in the evening, we saw the
top of the peak to the southward, above the clouds, which concealed it below. And at
this time, the southernmost land in sight bore S. by W. ; the variation, by several azimuths
which were taken both in the morning and the evening, appeared to be 14° lo' easterly.

At noon on the 12th, wc were distant about three leagues from tho shore which lies
under the peak, but the peak itself was wholly concealed by clouds : wc judged it to bear
about S.S.E. ; and some very remarkable peaked islands, which lay under the shore, bore
E.S.E., distant three or f»ur leagues. At seven in tho evening we sounded, and had forty-
two fathom, being distant from the shore between two and three leagues : we judged the
peak to bear east ; and after it was dark, we saw fires upon the shore.

At five o'clock in the morning we saw, for a few minutes, the summit of the peak,
towering above the clouds, and covered with snow. It now bore N.E. ; it lies in latitude
39° 16 S., longitude 185° 15' W. ; and I named it Mount Egmont, in honour of the Earl.
It seems to have a large base, and to rise with a gradual ascent ; it lies near the sea, and is
surrounded by a flat country, of a pleasant appearance, being clothed with verdure and
wood, which renders it the more conspicuous, and the shore under it forms a large cape,
which I have named Cape Egmont. It lies S.S.AV. ^ W., twenty-seven leagues distant
from Albatross Point, and on the fiorth side of it are two small islands, which lie near
a remarkable point on the main, that rises to a considerable height in the form of a sugar-
loaf. To the southward of the cai>c, the land trends away S.IO. by E. and S.S.E., and
seems to be everywhere a bold shore. At noon, Cape Egmont bore about N.E. ; and in
this direction, at about four leagues from the shore, wo had forty fathom of water. Tlie

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Jan. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGE HOI'ND THE WOULD.

18ft

wintl during tlio rest u( tlio day wa« from W. to N.W. by AV., and wo continued to stt or
along tlio Hhore S.8.K. and S.K. I>y IC, ki-eping at tliu distance of bitween two or tliieo
Icagtu'H. At lialf an hour after neven, we had another transient view uf Mount I'gniont,
whieh bore N. 17 W., distant about ten leagues.

At five the next morning, wo steered H.E. by S., tlie coast inclining more southerly; and
in about half an hour we saw land, bearing 8.W. by S., for which we liauled up. At noon,
the north-west extremity of the land in sight bore S. (».') W,, and sonic high land, which
liod the appearance of an island lying under the main, bore S.S.K., I'^stant five leagues. Wu
were now in a bay, the bottom of which bearing south, we could not see, though it was
clear in that quarter. Our latitude by observatutn wa« 40^ 27' S., longitude Uil' '.W AV.
At eight in the evening, wo were within two leagues of the land which wo had discovered
in the morning, having run ten leagues since noon : the land which then bore 8. (».') W.,
now bore N. 59 W., at the distance of seven or eight leagues, and had the appearance of an
island. Between this land and C'ai'B Eomo.nt lies the bay, the west side of which was
flur situation at this time, and the land hero is of n considerable height, and diversified by
lull and valley.

CHAPTER VI. — TRANMACTiO.N-i IN QUEEN CHARLOTTES SOUND*. PAHSAOB TItnOUGII THE
STRAIT WHICH DIVIDES 'illE TWO ISLANDS, AND HACK TO TAPE Tl'KNAOAIN : IIORIOn
CUSTOM OF THE INHAniTANTS : REMARKAItLE MELODY OF DIRD8 ; A VISIT TO A IIIITAH,
AND MANY OTHER PARTICITLAR8.

The shore at this place seemed to form several bays, into one of which I proposed to
carry tho ship, which was bccoiiic very foul, in order to careen her, and at the same time
repair some defects, and recruit our wood and water.

With this view, I kept plying on and off all night, having from eighty to sixty-three
fathom. At daybreak the next morning, I stood for an inlet which runs in 8.W. ; and at
eight I got witliin tho entrance which may be known by a reef of rocks, stretching from tho
north-west point, and some rocky inlands which lie off tho south-east point. At nine o'clock,
there being little v/ind, and what there was being variable, we were carried by tho tide or
current within two cables' length of tho north-west shore, where wo hud fifty-four fathom
water, but by the help of our boats we got clear. Just at this time we saw a sea-lion riso
twice near the shore, the head of which exactly resembled that of the male which has been
described in the Account of Lord Anson''8 Voyage. We also ?aw some of the natives in a
canoe cross tho bay, and a village situated upon the point of an island which lies seven or
eight miles within the entrance. At noon, we were the length of this island, but there being
little wind, the boats were ordered a-hcad to tow. About one o'clock, we hauled closo
round tho south-west end of tho island ; and tho inhabitants of the village whicii was built
upon it were immediately up in arms. About two, we anchored in a very safe and con-
venient cove. Oil the north-west side of the bay, and facing the south-west end of tho island,
in eleven fathom water, with soft ground, and muored with the stream anchor.

We were about four long cannon-shot distant from the village or Hippah, from whicli
four canoes were immediately despatched, as we imagined, to reconnoitre, and, if they
should find themselves able, to take us. The men were all well armed, and dressed nearly
as they are represented in the figure published by Tasinan ; two comers of tho cloth whicli
they wrapped round tho body were passed over the shoulders from behind, and being brought
down to the upper edge of it before, were made fast to it just under the breast ; but few, or
none, had feathers in their hair.

They rowed round the ship several times, with their usual tokens of menace and defiance,
and at last began the assault by throwing some stones : Tupia expostulated with them, but
apparently to very little purpose ; and we began to fear that they would oblige us to fire
at them, when a very old man in one of the boats expressed a desire of coming on board.
We gladly encouraged him in his design, a rope was thrown into his canoe, and she was
immediately alongside of the ship : the old man rose up, and prepared to come up the ship's
side, upon which all the rest expostulated with great vehemence against the attempt, and at

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1770.

last laid hold of liim, and held him back : he adhered liowcvcr to his puqiose with a calm
but steady perseverance, and having at length disengaged himself, he came on board. AVe
received him with all possiltle expressions of friendship and kindness, and after some time
dismissed him, vvitli many presents, to his companions. As soon as he was returned on
boan' his canoe, the people in all the rest began to dance, but whether as a token of enmity
or friendsihip w^e could not certainly determine, fur we hud seen them dance in a disposition
both for peace and war. In a short time, however, they retired to their fort, and soon after
I went on shore, with most of tl>e gentlemen, at the bottom of the cove, abreast of tlie ship.
We found a fine stream of excellent water, and wood in tlie greatest plenty, for the land
here was one forest, of vast extent. As we brought the seine with us, we hauled it once or
twice, and with such success that we caught near three hundred-weight of fish of diflerent
sorts, which was equally distributed among the sliip's company.

At day-break, while we were busy in careening the sliip, three canoes came oflF to us,
having on board above a hundred men, besides several of their women, which we were
plean<>d to sec, as in general it is a sign of peace ; but they soon afterwards became very
troublesome, and gave us reason to apprehend sonic mischief from them to the people that
were in our boats alongside the ship. While we were in this situation, the long-boat was
sent ashore with some water-casks, and some of the canoes attempting to follow her, we found
it necessary to intimidate them by firing some small-shot : we were at such a distance that
it was impossible to hurt them, yet our reproof had its effect, and they desisted from the
pursuit. They had some fish in their canoes which they now offered to sell, and which,
though it stunk, wo consented to -btiy : foi this purpose a man in a small boat was sent
among them, and they traded for some time very fairly. At length, however, one of them
watcliing his opportunity, snatched at some paper which onr market-man held in his hand,
and missing it, immediately put liimself in a posture of defence, flourished his patoo-patoo,
and making show as if he was about to strike ; some small-ahot were then fired at him from
the sliip, a few of which struck him upon the knee : this put an end to our trade, but the
Indians still continued near the ship, rowing round her many times, and conversing with
Tupia, chiefly concerning the traditions they had among them with respect to tiic antiqui-*
ties of their country. To this subject they were led by the inquiries whicli Tupia had been
directed to make, whether they had ever seen such a vessel as ours, or had ever Iieard that
any such had been upon their coast. Tlicse inquiries were all answered in the negative, so
that tradition has preserved among them uo memorial of Tasman ; though, by an observation
made this day, we find that we are only fifteen miles soutli of Murderer's Bay, our latitude
being 41° 5' 32", and JSIurderer's Bay, according to his account, being 40° 50'. Tiie women
in these canoes, and some of the men, had a head-dress wliicli we had not before seen. It
consisted of a bunch of black feathers, made nj) in a round form, and tied upon the top of
the head, which it entirely covered, and made it twice as high, to appearance, as it was in
reality.

After dinner I went in the ))innacc with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and some
others, into another cove, about two miles distant from that in which the ship lay : in our
way we saw something floating upon the water, which we took for a dead seal, but upon
rowing up to it, found it to be the body of a woman, whicli, to all appearance, had been
dead some days. We proceeded to our cove, where we went on shore, and found a small
family of Indians, who appeared to be greatly terrified at our approach, and all ran away
except one. A conversation between this person and Tupia soon brought back the rest,
except an old man and a child, who still kept aloof, but stood peeping at us from the woods.
Of these people, our curiosity naturally led us to inquire after the body of the woman, which
we had seen floating upon tlie water : and they acquainted us, by Tupia, that she was a
relation, who had died a natural death ; and that, according to their custom, they had tied
a stone to the body, and thrown it into the sea, which stone, they supposed, had, by some
accident, been disengaged.

Tliis family, when we came on shore, was employed in dressing some provisions : the body
of a dog was at this time buried in their oven, and many provision-baskets stood near it.
Having cast our eyes carelessly into one of these, as we jiasscd it, wt saw two bones prcti/

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Jan. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE UORLI).

1G5

cleanly picked, which did not sccin to be the bones of a dug, and which, npon a nearci*
examination, wc discovered to be those of a liuman body. At tliis sight we were struck
ivith horror, though it was only a confirmation of what we had heard many times since wc
arrived npon this coast. As we could have no doubt but the bones were human, neither
could we have any doubt but that the flesh which covered them had been eaten. They were
found in a provision-basket ; the flesh that remained appeared manifestly to have been
dressed by fire ; and in the gristles at the end were the marks of the teeth which had
gnawed thou : to i)ut an end, however, to conjecture, founded npon circumstances and
appearances, we directed Tnpia to ask what bones they were ; and the Indians, withont the
least hesitation, answered, the hones of a man : they were then asked what was become of
the flesh, and they replied thiit they had eaten it. But, said Tnpia, why did you not eat the
body of the woman which we saw floating upon the water? Tiie woman, said they, died of
disease ; besides, she was our relation, and we eat only the bodies of our enemies, who arc
killed in battle. Uptm inquiry wlio the man w.ts whose bones we had found, they told us,
that about five days before, a boat belonging to their enemies came into the bay, with many
persons on board, and that this man was of the seven whom they had killed. Though
stronger evidence of this horrid practice prevailing among the inhabitiuits of this coast will
scarcely be required, we have still stronger to give. One of us asked if they had any
human bones with the flesh remaining upon them, and upon their answering us that all had
been eaten, we affected to disbelieve that the bones were human, and said that they were
the bones of a dog ; upon which one of the Indians, with some eagerness, took hold of his
own fore-arm, and thrusting it towards us, said, that the bone which Mr. Banks held in his
hand had belonged to that part of the human body ; at the same time, to convince us that
the flesh had been eaten, he took hold of liis own arm v/ith his teeth, and made show of
eating : he also bit and gnawed the bone which Mr. Banks had taken, drawing it through
his mouth, and showing, by signs, that it had afforded a delicious repast ; the bone was then
returned to Mr. Banks, and he brought it away with him. Among the persons of this
family, there was a woman who had her arms, legs, and thighs, frightfully cut in several
places ; and we were told that she had inflicted the wounds upon herself, in token of her
grief for the loss of her husband, who had been lately killed and eaten by their enemies,
who had come from some place to the eastward, towards which the Indians pointed.

The ship lay at the distance of somewhat less than a quarter of a mile from the siiore, and
in the morning we were awakened by the singing of the birds : the number was incredible,
and they seemed to strain their throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody was
infinitely superior to any that wc had ever heard of the same kind ; it seemed to be like
small bells, most exquisitely tuned, and perhaps the distance, and the water between, might
be no small advantage to the sound. Upon inquiry, wc were informed that the birds here
always began to sing about two hours after midnight, and continuing their music till
sunrise, were, like our nightingales, silent the rest of the day. In the forenoon, a small
canoe came off from the Indian village to the ship, and among those that were in it, was
the old man who had first come '~n board at our arrival in the bay. As soon as it came
alongside, Tupia renewed the conversation that had passed the day before concerning their
practice of eating human flesh, during which they repeated what they had told us already.
But, said Tupia, where are the heads ? do you eat them too ? Of the heads, said the old
man, we eat only the brains, and the next time I come I will bring some of them to
convince you that what we have told you is truth. After some farther conversation between
these peojtle and Tupia, they told him that they expected their ci.emies to come very
shortly to revenge the death of the seven men whom they had killed and eaten.

On the 18tli, the Indians were more quiet than usual ; no canoe came near the ship, nor
did we see one of them moving on the shore, their fishing and other usual occupations being
totally suspended. Wo thought they expected an attack on this day, and, therefore,
attended more diligently to what passed on shore; but we saw nothing to gratify our
curiosity. After breakfast, we went out in the pinnace, to take a view of the bay, which
was of vast extent, and consisted of numberless small harbours and coves, in every direction :
we confined our excursion, however, to the western side, and the country being an impene-

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUxND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1770.

treble forest where we landed, we could sec nothing worthy of notice : wo killed, however,
a good number of shags, which we saw sitting upon their nests in the trees, and which,
whether roasted or stewed, wo considered as very good provision. As we were returning,
we saw a single man in a canoe fishing ; we rowed up to him, and, to our great surprise, he
took not the least notice of us, but even when we were alongside of him, continued to
follow his occupation, without adverting to us any more than if we had been invisible. He
did not, however, appear to be either sullen or stupid : we requested him to draw up his
net, that we might examine it, and he readily complied : it was of a circular form, extended
by two hoo]>s, and about seven or eight feet in diameter : the top was open, and sea-ears
were fastened to the bottom as a bait : this he let down so as to lie upon the ground, and
when he thought fish enough were assembled over it, he drew it up by a very gentle and
even motion, so that the fish rose with it, scarcely sensible that they were lifted, till they
came very near the surface of the water, and then were brought out in the net by a sudden
jerk. By this simple method, he had caught abundance of fish, and, indeed, they arc so
plenty in this bay, that the catching them requires ncitiier much labour nor art.

This day, some of our people found in the skirts of the wood, near a hole or oven, three
human hip-bones, which they brought on board ; a farther proof that these people eat
human flesh : 3Ir. Monkhouse, our surgeon, also brought on board, from a place where he
saw many deserted houses, the hair of a man's head, which he had found, among many other
things, tied up to the branches of trees.

In the morning of the 19th, we. set up the armourer's forge to repair the braces of the
tiller, and other iron-work, all hands on board being still busy in careening, and other
necessary operations about the vessel : this day, some Indians came on board from another
part of the bay, where they said there was a town which we had not seen : tliey brought
plenty of fish, which they sold for nails, having now acquired some notion of their use ; and
in this trafiic no unfair practice was attempted. In the morning of the 20th, our old man
kept his promise, and brought on board four of the hcaus of the seven people who had
been so much the subject of our inquiries : the hair and flesli were entire, but we perceived
that the brains hid been extracted ; the flesh was soft, but had by some metliod been
preserved from putrefaction, for it had no disagreeable smell. Mr. Banks purchased one of
them, but they sold it with great reluctance, and could not by any means be prevailed upon
to part with a second ; probably they may be preserved as trophies, like the scalps in
America, and the jaw-bones in the islands of the South Seas. Upon examining the head
which had been bought by Mr. Banks, we perceived that it had received a blow upon the
temples, which had fractured the skull. This day wo made tinother excursion in the
pinnace, to sur^'ey the bay, but we found no flat large enough for a potato garden, nor
could we discover the least appearance of cultivation : we met not a single Indian, but
found an excellent harbour; and about eight o'clock in the evening returned on board
the ship.

On the 21 st, Sir. Banks and Dr. Solander went a-fishing with hook and line, and caught
an immense quantity everywhere upon the rocks, in between four and five fathom water :
the seine was hauled every night, and seldom failed to supply the whole ship's company
with as much fish as they could cat. This day all the people had leave to go on shore at
the watering-place, and divert themselves as they should think proper.

Ill tiie morning of the 22nd, I set out again in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks
and Dr. Solander, with a design to examine the head of the inlet ; but, after rowing about
four or five leagues without so much as coming in sight of it, the wind being contrary,
and the day half spent, we went on shore on the south-east side, to try what might
be discovered from the hills. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander immediately employed them-
selves in botanisiiig near the beach, and I, tiiking a seaman with me, ascended one
of the hills : when I reached the summit, I found a view of the inlet intercepted by
hills, which in that direction rose still higher, and which were rendered inaccessible
by impenetrable woods ; I was, however, abundantly compensated for my labour, for I saw
the sea on the eastern side of the country, and a passage leading from it to that on the west,
a little to the eastward of the entrance of the inlet where the ship now lay. Tiie main land,

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Jan. 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

167

which lay on tho south-CtOst of this inlet, appeared to be a narrow riJge of very high hills,
and to form part of the south-west side of the strait ; the land on the opposite side appeared
to trend away east as far as the eye could reach ; and to the south-ea&t there appeared to
be an opening to the sea, which washed the eastern coast : on the east side of the inlet aUo
I saw some islands which I had before taken to be part of the main lard. Having made
this discovery, I descended the hill, and as soon as we had taken some refreshment, we set
out on our return to the ship. In our way, we examined the harbours and coves which lie
behind tho islands that I had discovered from the hill ; and in this route wc saw an old
village, in which there were many houses that seemed to have bctn long deserted : we also
saw another village which was inhabited, but the day was too far spent for us to visit it,
and we therefore made the best of our way to the ship, which we reached between eight and
nine o'clock at night.

The 23rd I employed in carrying on a survey of the place ; and upon oue of the islands
where I landed, I saw many houses which seemed to have been long deserted, and no appear-
ance of any inhabitant. On the 24th, we went to visit our friends at the Ilippah or villatre
on the point of the island near the ship's station, who had come oft' to us on our first arrival
in the bay. They received us witli the utmost confidence and civility, showing us every
part of their habitations, which were commodious and neat. The island or rock on which
this town is situated is divided from the main by a breach or fissure, so narrow that a man
might almost leap from one to the other : the sides of it are everywhere so steep as to render
the artificial fortification of these people almost unnecessary ; there was, however, one slight
palisade, and one small fighting-stage, towards that part of the rock where access was least
difficult.

The people here brought us out several human bones, the flesh of which they had eaten,
and ofiTered them to sale ; for the curiosity of those among us, who had purchased them as
memorials of the horrid practice which many, notwithstanding the reports of travellers, have
professed not to believe, had rendered them a kind of irticlc of trade. In one part of this
village we observed, not without some surpris'j, a cross tyactly like that of a crucifix ; it was
adorned with feathers, and, upon our inquiring for what purpose it had been set up, we wero
told that it was a monument for a man who was dead. We had before understood that their
dead were not buried, but thrown into the sea ; but to our inquiry how the body of the man
had been disposed of, to whose memory this cross had been erected, they refused to answer.
When we left these people, we went to the other end of the island, and there taking water,
crossed over to the main, where we saw sevoiiil .ouses, but no inhabitants, except a few in
some straggling canoes, that seemed to be fishing. After viewing this place, we returned
on board the ship to dinner.

During our visit to the Indians this day, Tupia being always of our party, they had been
observed to be continually talking of guns, and shooting people : for this subject of their
conversation we could not at all account ; and it had so much engaged our attention, that
we talked of it all the way back, and even after we got on board the ship. We had per-
plexed ourselves with various conjectures, which were all given up in their turn ; but now
we learnt, that on the 21st one of our officers, upon pretence of going out to fish, had rowed
up to the Ilippah, and that two or three canoes coming off towards his boat, his fears
suggested that an attack was intended, in consequence of which three muskets were fired,
one with small shot and two with ball, at tlie Indians, who retired with the utmost pre-
cipitation, having probably come out with friendly intentions; for such their bchavioui
both before and afterwards expressed ; and having no reason to expect such treatment from
people who had always behaved to them not only with humanity but kindness, and to whom
they were not conscious of having given offence.

On the 25th, I made another excursion along the coast, in the pinnace, towards the
mouth of the inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and going on shore
at a little cove, to shoot shags, we fell in with a large family of Indians, whose custom it is
to disperse themselves among the different creeks and coves, where fish is to be procured in
the greatest plenty, leaving a few only in the Hippah, to which the rest repair in times of
danger. Some of these people came out a good way to meet us, and gave us an invitation

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1770

to go with tliom to the rest of their party, which we readily accepted. We found a
coni])any of about thirty, men, women, and children, who received us with all possible
demonstrations of friendship : wo distributed among them a few ribands and beads, and,
in return, received the kisses and embraces t)f both sexes, both young and old : they gave ua
also some fish, and after a little time we returned, much pleased with our new acquaintance.
In the morning i>f the 26th, I went again out in the lioat, with Mr. Bunks and Dr.
Solander, and entered one of the bays, whicli lie on the east side of the inlet, in order to get
another sight of the strait which passed between the eastern and western seas. For this
purpose, having landed at a convenient place, we climbed a hill of a very considerable
height, from which wo had a full view of it, with the land on the opposite shore, which we
judged to be about four leagues distant ; but as it was hazy in the horizon, we could not see
far to the south-east : I resolved, however, to search the passage with the ship, as soon as I
should put to sea. Upon the top of this hill we found a parcel of loose stones, with which
we erected a pyramid, and left in it some musket balls, small shot, beads, and other things,
which we happened to have about us, that were likely to stand the test of time, and, not
being of Indian workmanship, would convince any European who should come to the place
and pull it down, that other natives of Europe had been there before him. When this was
done, we descended the hill, and made a comfortable meal of the shags and fish which our
guns and lines had procured us, and which were dressed by the boat's crew in a place that
we had appointed : in this place we found another Indian family, who received us, as usual,
with strong expressions of kindness and pleasure, showing us where to procure water, and
doing ua such other good offices as were in their power. From this place we went to the
town of which the Indians had told us, who visited us on the 19th ; this, like that which
we had seen before, was built upon a small island or rock, so difficult of access, that wc
gratified our curiosity at the risk of our necks. The Indians here also received us with
open arms, carried us to every part of the place, and showed us all that it contained : this
town, like the other, consisted of between eighty and a hundred houses, and had only one

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INTF.IIIUR or A HIPPill.

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fi^rhting-stage. We happened to have with us a few nails and ribands, and some pai)er,
with which our guests were so gratified, that at our coming away they filled our boat with
dried fish, of which we perceived they had laid up great quantities.

Tlie 27th and 28th were spent in refitting the ship for tlie sea, fixing a transom for the
liller, getting stonri on board to put into tiie bottom of the bread-room, to bring tlic ship
more by the stern, in repairing the casks, and catching fish.

On the 29th, we received a visit from our old man, whoso name wo found to bo ToI'aa

Jan. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

IGl)

and tliroc other natives, with whom Tuj»ia had much conversation. Tlio old man told iis,
that one of the men who had been fired npon by the officer who had visited their hippah,
nnder pretence of fishing, was dead ; but to my great comfort I afterwards discovered that
t?<'8 report was not true, and that if Topaa's discourses were taken literally, they would
frequently L'ad us into mistakes. ]Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were several times on shore
during the last two or three days, not without success, but greatly circumscribed in their
walks, by climbers of a most luxuriant growth, which were so interwoven together as to
fill up the space between the trees about which they grew, and render tlie woo(ls altogether
impassable. This day, also, I went on shore again myself, upon the western point of tho
inlet, and from a hill of considerable height I had a view of the coast to the N.W. The
farthest land I could see in that quarter was an island which has been mentioned before, at
the distance of about ten leagues, lying not far from the main : between this island and tho
place where I stood, I discovered, close under the shore, several other islands, forming many
bays, in which there appeared to be good anchorage for shipping, \fter I had set oflF the
different points for my survey, I erected another pile of stones, in which I left a piece of
silver coin, with some musket-balls and beads, and a piece of an old pendant Hying on the
top. In my return to the ship, I made a visit to several of the natives, whom I saw along-
shore, and purchased a small quantity of fish.

On the 30th, early in the morning, I sent a boat to one of the islands for celery, and
while the people were gathering it, about twenty of the natives, men, women, and children,
landed near some empty huts : as soon as they were on shore, five or six of the women sat
down upon the ground together, and began to cut their legs, arms, and faces, with shells,
and sharp pieces of talc or jasper, in a terrible, manner. Our people understood that their
husbands had lately been killed by their enemies : but, while they were performing this
horrid ceremony, the men set about repairing the huts, with the utmost negligence and
unconcern.

The carpenter having prepared two posts to be left as memorials of our having visited
this place, I ordered them to be inscribed with the ship's name, and the year and month :
one of them I set up at the watering-place, hoisting the Union-flag upon the top of it ; and
the other I carried over to the island that lies nearest to the sea, called by the natives
MoTiTARA. I went first to the village or hippah, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse and
Tupia, where I met with our old man, and told him and several others, by u'eans of Tupia,
that wc were come to set up a mark upon the island, in order to show to any other ship which
should happen to come thither, that we had been there before. To this they readily
consented, and promised that they never would pull it down : I then gave something to
every one present ; and to the old man I gave a silver three-pence, dated 1 736, and some
spike-nails, with the king's broad arrow cut deep upon them ; things which I thought most
likely to remain long among them : I then took the post to the highest part of the island,
and, after fixing it firmly in the ground, I hoisted upon it the Union-flag, and honoured
this inlet with the name of Quken Charlotte's Sound ; at the same time taking formal
possession of th:'i and the adjacent country, in the name and for the use of his Majesty King
George the Third. We then drank a bottle of wine to her Majesty's health, and gave the
bottle to the old man who had attended us up the hill, and who was mightily delighted with
his present.

While the post waa setting up, we inquired of the old man concerning the passage into
the eastern sea, the existence of which he confirmed ; and then asked him about the land to
the S.W. of the strait, where we were then situated ; this land, he said, consisted of two
whennuas or islands, which may bo circumnavigated in a few days, and which he called
TovY PoENAMMOo : the literal translation of this word is, " the water of green talc f and
probably if we had understood him better, we should have found that Tovy Poenammoo was
the name of some particular place where they got the green talc or stone of which they make
their ornaments and tools, and not a general name for the whole southern district : he said,
there was also a third whennua, on the east side of the strait, the circumnavigation of
which would take up many moons : this he called EAnEiNOMAUWE ; and to the land on the
borders of the ytrait ho gave tho name of Tiera Witte. Having set up our post, and

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170

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND lilE WORLD.

Fkb. 1770.

procured this intelligence, we returned on board the ship, and brought the old man with us,
who was attended by his canoe, in which, after dinner, he returned home.

On the 31st, having completed our wooding, and filled all our water-casks, I sent out two
parties, one to cut and make brooms, and another to catch fish. In the evening we had a
strong gale from the N.W., with such a heavy rain, that our little wild musicians on shore
suspended their song, which till now we had constantly heard during the night, with a
pleasure which it was impossible to lose without regret. On the 1st, the gale increased to
a storm, with heavy gusts from the higli land, one of which broke the hawser that we had
fastened to the shore, ivnd obliged us to let go another anchor. Towards midnight, the gale
became more moderate, but the rain continued with such violence, that the brook wiiich liad
supplied us with v/ater overflowed its banks, and carried away ten small casks which had
been left there full of water, and, notwithstanding we searched the whole cove, wo could
never recover one of them.

On the 3rd, as I intended to sail the first opportunity, I went over to the hippah on the
east side of the Sound, and purchased a considerable quantity of split and iialf-dried fish, for
sea-stores. The people here confirmed all tliat the old man had told us concerning the
strait and the country, and about noon I took leave of them ; some of them seemed to be
sorry, and others glad, that we were going : the fish which I had bought they sold freely,
but there were some who showed manifest signs of disapprobation. As we returned to the
ship, some of us mcde an excursion along the shore to the northward, to traffic with the
natives for a farther supply of fish ; in which, however, they had no great success. In the
evening we got everything off from the shore, as I intended to sail in the morning, but the
wind would not permit.

On the 4th, wliile we were waiting for a wind, we amused ourselves by fishing, and
gathering shells and seeds of various kinds ; and early in the morning of tlie 5th, we cast off
the hawser, hove short on the bower, and carried the kedge-anchor out, in order to warp
the ship out of the cove, which having done, abuut two o'clock in the aftenoon, we hove up
the anchor and got under sail ; but the wind soon failing, we were oblige id to come to an
anchor again a little above Motuara. When we were under sail, our old man, Topaa, came
on board to take his leave of us ; and as we were still desirous of making farther inquiries
whether any memory of Tasman had been preserved among these people, Tupia was directed
tc ask him whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as ours had before visited the
country. To this he replied in the negative ; but said that his ancestors had told him there
had once come to this place a small vessel, from a distant countiy, called CTlimaroa, in
which were four men, who, upon their coming on shore, were all killed : upon being asked
where this distant land lay, he pointed to the northward. Of Ulimaroa we had heard
something before, from the people about the Bay of Islands, who said that their ancestors
had visited it ; and Tupia had also talked to us of Ulimaroa, concerning which he had some
confused traditionary notions, not very different from those of our old man, so that we could
draw no certain conclusion from the accounts of either.

Soon after the ship came to an anchor the second time, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went
on shore, to see if any gleanings of natural knowledge remained ; and by accident fell in
with the most agreeable Indian family they had seen, which afforded them a better oppor-
tunity of remarking the personal subordination among these people than had before offered.
The principal persons were a widow, and a pretty boy about ten years old : the widow was
mourning for her husband with tears of blood, according to their custom, and the child, by
the death of its fatl'.er, was become proprietor of the land where we had cut our wood. The
mother and the son were sitting upon mats, and the rest of the family, to the number of
sixteen or seventeen, of both sexes, sat round them in the open air, for they did not appear
to have any house, or other shelter from the weather, the inclemencies of which custom has
probably enabled them to endure without any lasting inconvenience. Their whole behaviour
was affable, obliging, and unsuspicious : they presented each person with fish, and a brand
of fire to dress it, and pressed them many times to stay till the morning, which they would
certainly have done ^f they had not expected the ship to sail, greatly regretting that they
had not become acquainted with them sooner, as they made no doubt but that more know-;

Feb. 1?70.

COOK'S FIRST VOk'AGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Icdgc of tho manners and disposition of tlio inhabitants of this country would have been
obtained from them in a day than they had yet been able to ac«j[uiro during our whole stay
upon the coast.

On the 6th, about six o'clock in the morning, a light breeze sprung up at north, and wo
again got under sail ; but the wind proving variable, we reached no farther than just without
Alotuara ; in the afternoon, however, a more steady gale at N. by W. set us clear of tho
Sound, which I shiiU now describe.

Tlie entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound is situated in latitude 41° S., longitude 184° 4.1'
W., and near the middle of the south-west side of the strait in which it lies. The land
of the south-east head of the Sound, called by the natives KoAMAnoo, off which lie two small
islands and some rocks, makes the narrowest p.art of the strait. From the north-west
head a reef of rocks runs out about two miles, in the direction of N.E. by N. : part of
which is above the water, and part below. By this account of the heads, the Sound will be
sufficiently known ; at the entrance it is three leagues broad, .and lies in S.W. by S.S.W.
and W.S.^Y'. at least ten leagues, and is a collection of some of the finest luirbours in tho
world. The land forming tho harbour or cove in which we lay, is called by the natives
ToTARUANUE : the harbour itself, which I called Ship Cove, is not inferior to any in the
Sound, cither for convenience or safety : it lies on the west side of tho Sound, and is tho
southernmost of three coves that are situated within tho island of Alotuara, which boars cast
of it. Ship Cove miiy be entered, cither between Motuara sind a long island, cilled by tho
natives IIamotk, or between Motuara and the western shore. In the last of these channels
jirc two ledges of rocks, three fathom under water, which may easily be known by the sea-
weed that grows upon them. In sailing either in or out of the Sound, with little wind,
attention must be hiid to the tides, which flow about nine or ten o'clock at the full and
chiingc of tiic moon, and rise and fall between seven .ind eight feet perpendicularly. The
flood comes in through the strait from the S.E., and sets strongly over upon the north-
west head, and the reef that lies off \t : the ebb sets with still greater rapidity to the S.E.
over upon the rocks and islands that lie off tlie south-cast head. Tho v.ari.ition of the
compass we found, from good observation, to be 13° .I' E.

Tlie land about this sound, which is of such a height that we saw it at the distance of
twenty leagues, consists wholly of high hills and deep valleys, well stored with a variety of
excellent timber, fit for all purposes except masts, for which it is too hard and heavy. The
sea abounds with a variety of fish, so that, without going out of the cove where we liiy, we
caught every day, with the seine and hooks and lines, a quantity sufficient to serve the whole
ship's company ; and along the shore we found plenty of shags, and a few other species of
wild-fowl, which those who have long lived upon salt provisions will not think despicable
food.

Tho number of inhabitants scarcely exceeds four hundred, and they live dispersed along
the shores, where their food, consisting of fish and fern roots, is most easily procured, for
we saw no cultivated ground. Upon any appearance of danger, they retire to their hippahs
or forts : in this situation we found them, and in tliis situation they continued for some time
after our arrival. In comparison of the inhabitants of other parts of this country, they are
poor, and their canoes arc without ornament. The little traffic we had with them was wholly
for fish ; and, indeed, they had scarcely anything else to dispose of. They seemed, however,
to have some knowledge of iron, which the inhabitants of some other parts had not ; for they
willingly took nails for their fish, and sometimes seemed to prefer it to everything else that
we could offer, which had not always been the case. They were at first very fond of paper ;
but when they found that it was spoiled by being wet, they would not take it : neither did
they set much value upon the cloth of Otaheite, but English broad-cloth and red kersey
were in high estimation, which showed that they had sense enough to appreciate the com-
modities which we offered by their use, which is more than could be said of some of their
neighbours, who made a much better appearance. Their dress has been mentioned already,
particularly their largo round head-dresses of feathers, which were far from being unbe-
coming.

As soon as we got out of the Sound, I stood over to the eastward, in order to get the strait

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172

COOK'S FIRST. VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

Fkd. 1770.

well open before the tide of ebb caino on. At seven in the evening, the two small islands
which lie oft' Capo Koainaroo, the sonth-east head of Queen Charlotte's Sonnd, bore east,
distant abont four miles. At this time it was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting out,
we were in a very short time carried by the rapidity of the stream close upon one of the
islands, which was a rock rising almost perpendicularly out of tiie sea. "We j)erceivcd our
danger increase every moment, and had but one expedient to prevent our being dashed to
pieces, the success of which a few minutes would determine. We were now witliin little
more tlian a cable's length of the rock, and had more than seventy-five fathom water ; but
upon dropping an anchor, and veering about one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, the ship
was happily brought up : tliis, however, would not have saved us, if the tide, which set S.
by E., had not, upon meeting with the island, changed its direction to S.E., and carried us
beyond the first point. In this situation, we were not above twt. cables' length fnmi the
rocks : and here we remained in the strength of the tide, which set to the S.R., after the rate
of at least five miles an hour, from a little after seven till near midnight, when the tide
abated, and we began to heave. By three in the morning the anchor was at the bows, and
bavin), a light breeze at N. W. we made sail for the eai^tern shore ; but the tide being .tgainst
us, wl made but little way ; the wind, however, afterwards freshened, and came to N. and
N.E., with which, and the tide of ebb, wo were in a short time hurried through the nar-
rowest part of the strait, and then stood away for the southernmost land we had in sight,
which boro from us S. by W. Over this land appeared a mountaiu of stupendous height,
which was covered with snow.

The narrowest part of the strait through which we had been driven with such rapidity,
lies between Cape Tierawitte, on the coast of Eaheinomauwc, and Cape Koamaroo : the
distance between them I judged to be between four or five leagues, anc' notwithstanding
the tide, now it? strength is known, may be passed without much danger. It is, however,
safest to keep on the north-cast shore, for on that side there appeared to be nothing to fear ;
but on the other shore there are not only the islands and rocks which lie oft' Cape Koamaroo,
but a reef of rocks stretching from these islands six or seven miles to the southward, at the
distance of two or three miles from the shore, which I had discovered from the hill when I
took my second view of the strait from the east to the western sea. The length of the strait
we had passed I shall not pretend to assign, but some judgment may be formed of it from
a view of the map.

About nine leagues north from Cape Tierawitte, and under the same shore, is a high and
remarkable island which may be distinctly seen from Queen Charlotte's Sound, from which
it is distant about six or seven leagues. This island, which was noticed when we passed it
on the 14th of January, I have called Entry Isle. On the east side of Cape Tierawitte,
the land trends away S.E- by E., about eight leagues, where it ends in a point, and is the
southernmost land on Eaheinomanwe. To this point I have given the name of Cape
Palliser, in honour of my worthy friend Captain Palliscr. It lies in latitude 41*34' S.,
longitude 183° 58' W., and bore from us this day at noon S. ^9 E., distant about thirteen
leagues, the ship being then in the latitude of 41° 27' S. ; Koamaroo at the same time
bearing N. j E., distant seven or eight leagues. The southernmost land in sight bore
S. 16 W., and the snowy mountain S.W. At this time we were about three leagues from
the shore, and abreast of a deep bay or inlet, to which I gave the name of Cloudy Bay, and
at the bottom of which there appeared low land covered with tall trees.

At three o'clock in the afternoon we were abreast of the southernmost point of land that
we had seen at noon, which I called Cape Campbell : it lies S. by W., distant between
twelve and thirteen leagues from Cape Koamaroo, in latitude 41° 44' S., longitude
183° 45' W ; and with Cape Palliser forms the southern entrance of the st.'-ait,
the distance between them being between thirteen and fourteen leagues W. by S., and
E. by N.

From this cape we steered along the shore S.W. by S. till eight o'clock in the evening,
when the wind died away. About half an hour afterwards, however, a fresh breeze sprung
up at S.W., and I put the ship right before it. My reason for this was a notion which
some of the officers had just started, that Eaheinomauwe was not an island, and that the

Fed. 1770.

mnll islands
, boro cast,
setting out,
1 one of the
Tceived our
;; dashed to
I'itliin littlo
water ; but
le, the ship
'hieh set S.
1 carried us
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cr the rate
en the tide

bows, and
iiig ligainst

to N. and
;h the nar-
id in sight,
JUS height,

li rapidity,
laroo: the
thstanding
, liowever,
ig to fear ;
Coainarou,
ird, at the
ill when I
the strait
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om which

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ierawitte,
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of Cape

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ime time
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and that
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ongitude
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evening,
e sprung
>n which
that tlie

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

173

land might stretch away to the S.E. from between Capo Turnagain and Capo Palliwer,
there being a space of between twelve and fifteen leagues that we had not seen. I had,
indeed, tlio strongest conviction that they were mistaken, not only from what I had seen
the first time I discovered the strait, but from many other concurrent testimonies, that tho
land in question was an island ; but being resolved to leave no possibility of doubt with
rt'8])ect to an object of such importance, I took the opportunity of the wind's shifting,
to stand eastward, and accordingly 8teere<l N.E. by E. all the night. At nine o'clock
in the morning we were abreast of Cape Palliser, and found the land trend away N.E.
towards Cape Turnagain, which I reckoned to bo distant about twenty-six leagues : however,
as tlie weather was hnzy, so as to prevent our seeing above four or five leagues, I still ke|)t
standing to the N.E. with a light breeze at south ; and at noon Cape Palliser bore N. 72 W.,
distant about three leagues.

About three o'clock in the afternoon three canoes came up to the ship with between
thirty and forty people on board, who had been pulling after us with great labour and
jierseverance for some time : they appeared to be more cleanly, and a better class, than
any we had met with since we left the Bay of Islands ; and their canoes were also distin-
guished by the same ornaments which we had seen upon the northernly part of the coast.
TThey came on board with very little invitation ; and their behaviour was courteous and
friendly. Upon receiving presents from us, they made us presents in return, which had not
been done by any of the natives that wo had seen before. 'Ve soon perceived that our
guests had heard of us, for as soon as they came on board, they asked for UV'oir, the namo
by which nails were known among the people with whom we had trafficked : l;ut though
they had heard of nails, it was ])lain they had seen none ; for when nails were given them,
they asked Tupia whiit they were. The term Jl7ioti\ indeed, convey to them the idea not
of their quality, but only of their use ; for it is the same by which they distinguish a tool,
commonly made of bone, which they use both as an auger and a chisel. However, their
knowing that we had iVhow to sell, was a proof that their connexions extended as far north
as Cape Kidnappers, which was distant no less than forty-five leagues ; for that was tho
southernmost place on this side the coast where we had had any traffic with the natives. It
is also probable, that the little knowledge which tho inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's Sound
had of iron, they obtained from their neighbours at Tierawitte ; for we had no reason to
think that the inhabitants of any ]>art of this coast had tiic least knowledge of iron or its
use before we came among them, especially as, when it was first offered, they seemed to
disregard it as of no value. We thought it probable, that we were now once more in the
territories of Teratu ; but upon inquiring of these people, they said that he was not their
king. After a short time, they went away, much gratified with the presents that we had
made them ; and we pursued our course along the shore to the N.E. till eleven o^clock tho
next morning. About this time, the weather happening to clear up, we saw Capo Turn-
ivgain, bearing N. by E. | E., at tho distance of about seven leagues : I then called the officers
upon deck, and asked them, whether they were not now satisfied that Eahcinomauwe was
an island : they readily answered in the affirmative j and all doubts being now removed, we
hauled our wind to the eastward.

CHAPTER VII. — RANGE FROM CAPE TrRNAGAIN SOUTHWARD ALONG THE EASTERN COAST OP
POENAM.MOO, ROUND CAPE SOUTH, AND BACK TO THE WESTERN ENTRANCE OF COOK's
STRAIT, WHICH COMPLETI.D THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THIS COUNTRY; WITH A DESCRIP-
TION OP THE COAST, AND OP ADIV. IRALTY DAY. THE DEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND,
AND VARIOUS PARTICULARS.

At four o'clock in the afternoon of Friday, the 9th of February, we tacked, and stood
S.W. till eight o'clock the next morning, when, being not above three or four miles from the
shore, we stood off two hours ; and then again S.W. till noon, when, at the distance of about
two miles from the shore, we had twenty-six fathom water.

We continued to make sail to the southward till sunset on the II th, when a fresh brecaj

174

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Fed. 1770.

It I

li/

at N.E. had carried us back again tlip length of Capo Palliscr, of which, as the weather was
clear, wo had a good view. It is of a height sufficient to bo seen in clear weather at the
distance of twelve or fourteen leagues, and the land is of a broken and hilly surface. Between
the foot of the high land and the sea there is a low flat border, off which there are some rocks
that appear aliove water. Between this Capo and Cape Turnagain, the land near the shore
is in many places low and flat, and has a green and |)loaaant appearance ; but farther from
the sea it rises into hills. The land between Cape Pnliiser and Capo Tierawitte is high, and
makes in table-points ; it also seemed to us to form two bays ; but wo were at too great a
distance from this part of the coast to judge accurately from appearances. Tho wind having
been variable, with calms, wo had advanced no farther by the 12tii at noon than latitude
41* 52', Cape Palliser then bearing north, distant about five leagues; and tho snowy moun-
tain, S. 83 W.

At noon, on the 13tli, we found ourselves in the latitude of 42° 2' S., Capo Palliser bear-
ing N. 20 E., distant eight leagues. In tho afternoon, a fresh gale sprung up at N.E., and
w^c steered S.W. by W. for the southernmost land in siglit, which at sunset bore from us
S. 74 W. At this time the variation was lCt° 4' E.

At eight o'clock in the morning of the 14th, having run one-and-twcnty leagues S. 58 W.
since the preceding noon, it fell calm. We were then abreast of tho snowy mountain, which
bore from us X.W., and in this direction lay behind a mountainous ridge of nearly the same
height, which rises directly from the sea, and runs parallel with the shore, which lies
N.E. I N. and. S.W. ^ S. The north-west end of the ridge rises inland, not far from Cape
Campbell ; and both the mountain and tho ridgo are distinctly seen as well from Cape
Koamaroo as Cape Palliser. From Koamaroo they aro distant two-and-twcnty leagues
S.W. I S. ; and from Cape Palliser, thirty leagues W.S.W. ; and are of a height sufficient
to be seen at a much greater distance. Some persons on board were of opinion that they
were as high as Teneriffe ; but I did not think them as high as Mount Egmont, on the
south-west coast of Eahcinomauwe, because the snow, which almost entirely covered I^Iount
Egmont, lay only in patches upon thc^e. At noon, this day, we were in latitude 42° 34' S.
The southernmost land in sight bore S.W. | W. ; and some low land that appeared like an
island, and lay close under the foot of the ridge, bore N.W. by N. about five or six leagues.

In the afternoon, when Mr. Banks was out in the boat a-sliooting, we saw with our glasses
four double canoes, having on board fifty-seven men, put ofF from that shore, and make
towards him ; we immediately made signals lor him to come on board, but the ship, with
respect to him, being right in the wake of the sun, he did not see them. We were at a con-
siderable distance from the shore, and he was at a considerable distance from the ship, which
was between him and the shore ; so that, it being a dead calm, I began to be in some pain
for him, fearing that he might not see the canoes time enough to reach the ship before they
should get up with him. Soon after, however, we saw his boat in motion, and had the
pleasure to take him on board before the Indians came up, who ])robably had not seen him,
as their attention seemed to be wholly fixed upon the ship. They came within about i
stone's cost, and then stopped, gazing at us with a look of vacant astonishment : Tupia
exerted all his eloquence to prevail upon them to come nearer, but without any effijct. After
surveying us for some time, they left us, and made towards the shore, but had not measured
more than half the distance between that and the ship before it was dark. We imagined
that these people had heard nothing of us, and could not but remark the diflbrent behaviour
and dispositions of the inhabitants of the different parts of this coast upon their first approach-
ing the vessel. These kept aloof with a mixture of timidity and wonder; others had
immediately commenced hostilities, by pelting us with stones. The gentleman whom we
had found alone, fishing in his boat, seemed to think us entirely unworthy of his notice ;
and some, almost without invitation, had come on board with an air of perfect confi 'cncc
and good-will. From the behaviour of our last visitors, I gave the land from which they
had put off, and which, as I have before observed, had the appearance of an island, the name

of LoOKERS-ON.

At eight o'clock in the evening, a breeze sprung up at S.S.W., with which I stretched off
south-east, because some on board thought they saw land in that quarter. In this course

lowy moun-

Fkd. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

17ft

wo continued till six o'clock tlio next morning, wlicn wo had run eleven Icajruci*, but saw no
land, except tliat which we had left. Having stood to the S.E. with a light hreczo, which
veered from the west to the north, till noon, our latitude by observation wan 42"' Ctli' .S., and
the high land that wo were abreatit of the preceding noon bore N.N.W. ^ W. In the after-
noon wo had a light breesso at N.F,., witli which wo steered west, edging in for tho land,
which was distant about eight leagues. At seven in the evening, wo were about six leagues
from tho shore, and the southernmost extremity of tiie land in sight bore W.S.W.

At daybreak, on the KUli, wo discovered land bearing S. by W., and seemingly detached
from tho coast we were upon. About eight, a breeze sprung up at N, by E., and we steered
directly for it. At noon, we wore in latitude 43" ID' S. ; tho peak on tno snowy mountain
boro N. 20 E., distant twenty-seven leagues ; the southern extremity of the land we could
see boro west ; and the land which had been discovered in tho morning appeared like an island,
extending from S.S.W. to S.W. by W. ^ W., distant about eight leagues. In the after-
noon, we stood to tho southward of it, with a fresh breeze at north. At eight in tho evening,
wo had run eleven leagues, and tho land then extended from S.W, by W. to N. by W. We
were then distant about three or four leagues from the nearest shore, and in this situation
had fifty fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom. Tho variation of tho compass by this
morning''8 amplitude was 14° 39' E.

At sunrise tho next morning, our opinion that tho land we liad been standing for was an
island, was confirmed, by our seeing part of the land of Tovy Poenammoo open to the west-
ward of it, extending as far as W. by S. At eight in the morning, the extremes of the
island bore N. 7<> W. and N.N.E. { E. ; and an opening near the south point, which had
the appearance of a bay or harbour, N. 20 W., distant between three and four leagues. In
this situation we had thirty-eight fatiiom water, >vith a brown sandy bottom.

This island, which I named after Air. Banks, lies about five leagues from tho coast of
Tovy Poenammoo; the south point bears S. 21 W. from the higliest peak on the snowy
mountain, and lies in latitude 43° 32' S., and in longitude 180° 30' W., by an observation
of the sun and moon which was made tliis morning. It is of a circidar figure, and about
twenty-four leagues in compass. It is sufficiently high to be seen at the distance of twelve
or fifteen leagues, and the land has a broken irregular surface, with the appearance rather of
barrenness than fertility ; yet it was inhabited, for we saw smoke in one place, and a few
straggling natives in another.

When this island was first discovered in the direction of S. by W., some persons on board
were of opinion that they also saw land bearing S.S.E. and S.E. by E. I was myself upon
the deck at the time, and told them that in my opinion it was no more than a cloud, and
that as the sun rose it would dissipate and vanish. However, as I was determined to leave
no subject for disputation which experiment could remove, I ordered tho ship to be wore,
and steered E.S.E. by compass, in the direction which the land wa^ said to bear from us at
that time. At noon we were in latitude 44° 7' S., the south point of Banks's Island bearing
north, distant five leagues. By seven o'clock at night we had run eight-and-twenty miles,
when, seeing no land, nor any signs of any, but that which we had left, we bore away S. by
W., and continued upon that course till tho next diiy at noon, when we were in latitude
45° lO*, the south point of Banks's Island bearing N. 6° 30' W., distant twenty-eight
leagues. The variation by the azimuth this morning was 15° 30' E, As no signs of land
had yet appeared to the southward, and as I thought that we had stood far enough in that
direction to weather all the land we had left, judging from the report of the natives in Queen
Charlotte's Sound, I hauled to the westward.

We had a moderate breeze at N.N.W, and N. till eight in the evening, when it became
unsettled; and at ten, fixed at south. During the night, it blew with such violence that it
brought us under our close-reefed topsails. At eight the next morning, having run twenty-
eight leagues upon a W. by N. ^ N. course ; and judging ourselves to be to the westward of
the land of Tovy Poenammoo, we bore away N.W. with a fresh gale at south. At ten,
having run eleven miles upon tliis course, we saw land extending from the S.W. to the N.W.,
at the distance of about ten leagues, which we hauled up for. At noon, our latitude by
observation was 44° 38', the south-east point of Banks's Island bore N. 58° 30' E., distant

:ll

I <

: ■!

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COOK'S FIU8T VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Fed. 1770.

i ■ t

thirty loaguos, and tlio main body of the land in siglit, W. by N. A bead-8ca prevented us
from making much way to tlio southward. At seven in the eveninj:^, the extremes of tho
land stretched from S.W. by S. to N. by W. ; and at six leagues from the shore, wu had
thirty-two fathom water. At four o'chick tho next morning, wo stood in for the shore W.
by S. ; and during a course of four IcngucM, our depth of water was from thirty-tw^o to thir-
teen fathom. When it was thirteen fatliom, wo were hut three miles distant from tho shore,
and therefore stood off; its direction is hero nearly N. and H. The surface, to the distance
of about five miles from the sea, is low and flat, but it tlien rises into hills of a considerable
height. It a|>pearcd to be totally barren, and we naw no signs of its being inhabited. Our
latitude, at noon, was 44° 44' ; and the longitude whieli we made from Banks's Island to
this place was 2' 22' W. During tho last twenty-four hour.o, though wo carried as much
sail as the ship would liear, we were driven three leagues to the leeward.

We continued to stand oflT and on all this day and the next, keeping at tho distance of
between four and twelve leagues from tlio shore, and having water from thirty-five to fifty-
three fathom. On the 22nd, at noon, we had no observation, but by the land judged
ourselves to be about three leagues farther north than wo had been tho day before. At
sunset, the weather, which had been hazy, cleai-ing up, wo saw a mountain which rose in
a high peak, bearing N.W. by X. ; and at the same time we saw the land more distinctly
than before, extending from N. to S.W. by S., which, at some dist.i'ice within tho coast,
had a lofty and mountainous appearance. We soon found that the accounts which had been
given us by the Indians in Queen Charlotte's Sound of tho land to the southward, were not
true ; for they had told us that it might bo circumnavigated in four days.

On the 23rd, having a hollow swell from the S.E., and expecting wind from the samo
quarter, we kept plying between seven and fifteen leagues from the shore, having from
seventy to forty-four fathom. At noon, our latitude by observation was 44° AOf S., and
our longitude from Danks's Island 1° 31' W. From this time to six in the evening it was
calm; but a light breeze then springing up at E.N.E., wc steered S.S.E. all night, edging
off from the land, the hollow swell still continuing ; our depth of water was from sixty to
seventy-five fathom. While wo were becalmed, Mr. Banks, being out in the boat, shot two
Port Egmont hens, which were in every respect the same us those that are found in great
numbers upon the island of Faro, and were the first of the kind we had seen upon this coast,
though wc fell in with some a few days before we made land.

At daybreak, the wind freshened, and before noon wo had a strong gale at N.N.E. At
eight in the morning wc saw the land extending as far as S.W. by S., and steered directly
for it. At noon, wc were in latitude 45" 22' S. ; an<l tho land, which now stretched from
S.W. ^ S. to N.N.W,, appeared to be rudely diversified by hill and valley. In the after-
noon, we steered S.W, by S. and S.W., edging in for the land with a fresh gale at north ;
but though we were at no great distance, the weather was so hazy that we could see nothing
distinctly upon it, except a ridge of high hills lying not far from the s&a, and parallel to the
coast, which in this place stretches S. by W. and N. by E., and seemed to end in a high
bluff point to the southward. By eight in the evenin'; we were abreast of this point ; but
it being then dark, and I not knowing which way the land trended, we brought-to for the
night. At this time the point bore west, and was distant about five miles : our depth of
tvater was thirty-seven fathom, and the bottom consisted of small [(obbles.

At daybreak, having made sail, the point bore north, distant three leagues, and wc now
found that the land trended from it S.W. by W., as far as we could see. This point I
named Cape Saunders, in honour of Sir Charles. Our latitude w^as 45° 35' S., and
longitude 189^ 4' W. By the latitude, and the angles that are made by the coast, this
point will be sufficiently known ; there is, however, about three or four leagues to the south-
west of it, and very near the shore, a remarkable saddle-hill, which is a good direction to it
on that quarter. From one league to four leagues north of Cape Saunders, the shore forms
two or three bays, in which there appeared to be good anchorage, and effectual shelter from
the S.W. westerly, and N. westerly winds ; but my desire of getting to the southward, in
order to ascertain whether this country was an island or a continent, prevented my putting
into any of them.

Fed. 1770.

MAHon, 1770. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND TIIR WORLD.

177

rcvcntcd us
incs of tlio
•re, wu had

shorn W.
wo to thir-

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ho distance
unsidernhlo
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a Island to
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distance of
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L'fore. At
iich rose in
) distinctly
the coast,
li had been
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I the same
iving from
lOf S., and
ling it was
;ht, edging
m sixty to
b, shot two
id in great
this coast,

N.E. At
L»d directly
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the after-
I at north ;
ee nothins
dlel to the

in a high
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ir depth of

d we now
lis point I
S., and
coast, this
the south-
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lore forms
elter from
thward, in
ly putting

Wo kept at a small distance from the slioro all this morning, with the wind at S.W., and
had a very distinct view of it : it is of a moderate height, and tlic surface in broken by iiiuny
hills which ore green and woody; but we saw no appearand *.> of inhabitants. At noon.
Cape Saunters bore N. HO W., distant about four leagues. Vo had variable winds and
calms till five o'clock in the evening, when it fixed at W.8.W., and soon blew so hard that
it put us past our topsails, and split the foresail all to |>iece8 : after getting another to the
yard, wo continued to stand to tlio southward under two courses ; and at six the iiixt
morning, the southcrnuiost land in sight boro W. by N., and Capo Saunders N. by W.,
distant eight leagues : at noon, it bore N. 20 W., fourteen leagues ; and our latitude by
observation was 4(i'' 'AO', The gale continued, with heavy squalls and a large hollow wa, all
the afternoon ; and at seven in the evening, we lay-to under our foresail, with the ship's
head to the southward : at noon on the 27th, our latitude was 4(>'' CA', and our longitude
from Cape Saunders 1° 24' E. At seven in the evening, we made sail under our courses ;
and at eight the next morning set the topsails close reefed. At noon, our latitude was
47° 4.1', and our longitude east from Capo Saunders 2" 10'. At this time, we wore and
stood to the northward: in the afternoon, we found the variation to bo 1(P 34' E. At
eight in the evening, wo tacked and stood to the southward, with the wind at west.

At noon this day, our latitude by account was 47"^ 52', and our longitude from Capo
Saunders P ({' E. Wo stood to the southward till half an hour past three in the afternoon;
and then, being in latitude 48^ S., and longitude liUP W., and seeing no appcaranco of
land, we tacked and stood to the northward, having a largo swell from the S.W, by W.
At noon the next day, our latitude was 40=' 42' S. ; and Cape Saunders bore N. 40" W.,
distant ei^^hty-six miles. The south-west swell continuing till the 3rd, confirmed our
opinion, tliat there was no land in that quarter.' At four in the afternoon, we stood to the
I westward with all the sail we could make. In the morning of the 4tli, we found the
, variation to bo 16" lO* E. This day wo saw some whales and seals, as we had done several
times after our having passed the strait ; but we saw no seal while wo were upon the coast
of Eahienomauwe. We sounded both in the night and this morning, but had no ground
with one hundred and fifty fathom. At noon, we saw Cape Saunders bearing N. ^ W. ;
and our latitude by observation was 46^ 31' S. At half an hour past one o''cIock, wo saw
land bearing W. by S., which we steered for, and before it was dark were within three or
four miles of it : during the whole night we saw fires upon it, and at seven in the morning
were within about three leagues of the shore, which appeared to be high, but level. At
three o'clock in the afternoon, we saw the land extending from N.E. by N. to N.W. ^ N. ;
and soon after we discovered some low land, which appeared like an island, beaiing S. ^ W.
We continued our course to the W. by S., and in two hours we saw high land over the
lowland, extending to the southward as far as S.W. by S.; but did not appear to bo
joined to the land to the northward, so that there is either water, a deep bay, or low land
between them.

At noon on the 6th, wo were nearly in the same situation as at noon on the day before :
in the afternoon we found the variation, by several azimuths and the amplitude, to be
15" 10' E. On the 7th at noon, we were in latitude 47° 6' S., and had made twelve miles
easting during the last twenty-four hours. We stood to the westward the remainder of
this day, and all the next till sunset, when the extremes of the land bore from N. by E. to
W., distant about seven or eight leagues : in this situation our depth of water was fifty-five
fathom, and the variation by amplitude 16° 29' E. The wind now veered from the N. to
the W., and as we had fine weather and moonlight, we kept standing close upon the wind
to the S.W. all night. At four in the morning, we had sixty fathom water ; and at day-
light we discovered under our bow a ledge of rocks, extending from S. by W. to W. by S.,
upon which the sea broke very high : they were not more than three quarters of a mile distant,
yet we had five-and-forty fathom water. As the wind was at N.W., we could not now
weather them, and as I was unwilling to run to leeward, I tacked and made a trip to the
eastward ; the wind, however, soon after coming to the northward, enabled us to get clear
of all. Our soundings, while we were passing within the ledge, were from thirty-five to forty-
seven fathom, with a rocky bottom.

f '

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COOK'S FIRST .VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, ir70.

i; 111;

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This ledge Hps S.E. six leagues from the southernmost part of the land, and S.E. by E.
from some remarkable hills which stand near the shore : about three leagues to the north-
ward of it, there is another ledge, which lies full three leagues from the shore, and on which
the sea broke in a dreadful surf. As we passed these rocks to the north in the night,
and discovered the others under our bow at break of day, it is manifest that our danger was
imminent, and our escape critical in the highest degree : from the situation of these rocks,
so well adapted to catch imwary strangers, 1 called them the Traps. Our latitude at noon
was 47° 26' S. The land in sight, wliich had the appearance of an island, extended from
N.E. by X. to N.W. by W., and seemed to be about five leagues distant from the main ;
the easternmost ledge of rocks bore S.S.E., distant one league and a half, and the northernmost
N.E. I E., distant about three leagues. This land is high and barren, with nothing upon it
but a few straggling shrubs, for not a single tree was to be seen ; it was, however, remark-
able for a number of white patches, which I took to be marble, as they reflected the sun's
rays very strongly : other patches of tlie same kind we had observed in different parts of
this country, particularly in Mercury Bay : wo continued to stand close upon a wind to the
westward, and at sunset the southernmost point of land bore N. 38 E., distant four leagues,
and the westernmost land in sight bore N. 2 E. The point whicli lies in latitude 47° 19' S.
longitude 192° 12' AV. I named South Cape ; the westernmost land was a small island, lying
off the point of the mnin.

Supposing South Cape to be the southern extremity of this countrj', as indeed it proved
to be, I hoped to get round it by the west, for a large hollow swell from the south-west,
ever since our last hard gale, had convinced me th.at there was no land in that direction.

In the night we had a hard gale at N.E. by N. and N., which brought us under our
courses, but about eight in the morning it became moderate ; and at noon, veering to the
west, we tacked and stood to the northward, having no land in sight. Our latitude, by
observation, was 47° 33' S., our longitude, west from the South Cape, 59'. We stood away
N.N.E. close upon a wind, without seeing any land, till two the next morning, when we
discovered an island bearing N.W. by N., distant about five leagues : about two hours after-
wards we saw land a-head, upon which we tacked and stood off till six, when we stood in
to take a nearer view of it : at eleven we were within three leagues of it, but the wind
seeming to incline upon the shore, I tacked and stood off to the southward. We had now
sailed round the Land which we had discovered on the 5th, and whicli then did not appear
to be joined to the main which lay north of it ; and being now come to the other side of
what we supposed to be water, a bay, or low land, it had the same appearance, but when I
came to lay it down upon paper I saw no reason to suppose it to be an island ; on the con-
trary, I was clearly of opinion that it made part of the main. At noon, the western
extremity of the main bore N. 59 W., and the island wl'ich we had seen in the morning
S. 59 W. distant about five leagues. It lies in latitude 4(i° 31' S., longitude 192° 49' W.,
.and is nothing but a barren rock about a mile in circuit, remarkably high, and lies full five
leagues distant from tlio main. Tiiis island I named after Dr. Solander, and called it
Solander's Island. The shore of the main lies nearest E. by S. and W. by N. and forms
a large open bay, in which there is no appearance of any harbour or shelter for shipping
against S.W. and southerly winds ; the surface of the country is broken into craggy hills,
of a great height, on the summits of wiiicli arc several patches of snow : it is not, however,
wholly barren, for we could see wood not only in the valleys, but upon the highest ground,
yet we saw no appearance o' its being inhabited.

We continued to stand to the S.W. by S. till eleven o'clock the next morning, when the
wind shifted to the S.W. by W., upon which we wore, and stood to the N.N.W., being
then in latitude 47" 40' S, longitude 19.'i° 50' W., and having a hollow sea from
the S.W.

During the niglit, we steered N.N.W. till six in the morning, v^hen, seeing no land, we
steered N. by E. till ei;rlit, when wo steered N.E. by E. 1 E. to make tiie land, wliich r.t
ten we saw bearing E.N.E., but it being hazy, we could distinguish nothing upon it. At
noon, our latitude, by observation, Avas 40" S. About two it cleared up, and the land
appeared to be high, rude, and mountainous : about half an hour after three I hauled in for

ARCH, 1<'70.

S.E. by E.

the north-
1 on which

the night,
langcr was
hesc rocks,
de at noon
;ndcd from

the main ;
rthernmost
ing upon it
;r, remark-
d the sun's
!nt parts of
vind to tlic
ur leagues,

47° J 9' S.
iland, lying

I it proved
south-west,
irection.

under our
ring to the
■ititndc, by
stood away
f, when we
lours after-
re stood in

the wind
e had now
not appear
her side of
)ut when I
>n the con-
le western
e morning
1° 49' W.,
es full five

called it
and forms
■ shipping
iggy hills,

however,
st ground,

when the

W., being

sea from

) land, we

whicli Tit
n it. At

the land
lied in fur

Mahch, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

179

a bay, in which there appeared to be good anchoran;e ; but in about an hour, finding the
distance too great to run before it would be dark, and the wind blowing too hard to make
the attempt safe in the night, I bore away along the shore.

This bay, which I called Ditsky Bay, lies in latitude 45* 47' S. : it is between three and
four miles broad at the entrance, and seems to be full as deep as it is broad : it contains
several islands, behind which there must be shelter from all winds, though possibly there
may not be sufficient depth of water. The north point of this bay, when it bears S.E. by
S., is rendered very remarkable by five high peaked rocks which lie off it, and have the
ajipearance of the four fingers and thumb of a man's hand, for which reason I called it Point
Five Fingers : the land of this point is farther remarkable, for being the only level land
within a considerable distance. It extends near two leagues to the northward, is lofty, and
covered with wood : the land behind it is very different, consisting wholly of mountains,
totally barren and rocky ; and this difference gives the Cape the appearar.oe of an island.

At sunset, the southernmost land in sight bore due south, distant about five or six len aes ;
and as this is the westernmost point cf land upon the whole coast, I called it West (.'ai'e.
It lies about three leagues to the southward of Dusky Bay, in the latitude of 45° 5 1' S., and
in the longitude of 193° 17' W". The land of this Cape is of a moderate height next the sea,
and has nothing remarkable about it, except a very white cliff, two or three leagues to the
southward of it : to the southward of it iilso the land trends away to the S.E., and to the
northward it trends N.N.E.

Having brought to for the night, wo made sail along the sliore at four in the morning, in
the direction of N.E. ^ N. with a moderate breeze at S.S.E. At noon our latitude, by
observation, was 45° 13' S. At this time, being about a league and a half from the shore,
we sounded, but had no ground with seventy fathom : we had just passed a small narrow
opening in land, where there seemed to be a very safe and convenient harbour, formed by
an island, which lay in the middle of the opening at east. The opening lies in latitude
45° 16' S., and on the land behind it are mountains, the summits of which were covered
with snow, that appeared to have been recently fallen ; and indeed for two days past we had
found the weather very cold. On each side the entrance of the opening, the land rises
almost perpendicularly from t'-d sea to a stupendous height, and this indeed was the reason
why I did not carry the shiji into it, for no wind could blow there but right in, or right out,
in the direction of either east or west, and I thought it by no means advisable to put into a
place whence I could not have got out but with a wind which experience had taught me did
not blow more *han one day in a month. In this, however, I acted contrary to the opinion
of some persoi.d on board, who in very strong terms expressed their desire to harbour for
present convenience, without any regard to future disadvantages.

In the evening, being about two lepgues from the shore, we sounded, and had no ground
with 108 fathom: tlie variation of the needle, by azimuth, was 14° E. and by amplitude
15° 2'. AVe made the best of our way along the shore with what wind 've had, keeping at
the distance of between two and three leagues. At noon, wo were iu latitude 44° 47',
having run only twelve leagues upon a N.E. | N. course, during the last four-and-twenty
liours.

We continued to steer along the shore, in the direction of N.E. ^ E. till six oV-lock in the
evening, when we brought to for the night. At four in the morning, we stood in for the
land, and when the day broke we saw what appeared to be an inlet ; but upon a nearer
approach, proved to be only a deep valley between two high lands : we proceeded therefore
in the same course, keeping the shore at the distance of between four and five miles. At
noon on the 16th, the northernmost point of land in sight bore N. 60 E. at the distance of
ten miles ; and our latitude, by observation, w.is 44° 5', our longitude from Cape West
2" 8' E. About two, we passed the point which at noon had been distant ten miles, and
found it to consist of high red cliffs, down which there fell a cascade of water in four small
streams, and I therefore gave it the name of Cascade Point. From this point, the land trends
first N. 76 E. and afterwards more to the northward. At the distance of eight leagues from
Cascade Point, in the direction of E.N.E., and at a little distance from the shore, lies a
small low island, which bore from us S. by E., at the distance of about a league and a half.

N 2

'■ a i1

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i I,

,' '!

!). '

180

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, Makch, 1770.

I' 'I

ii U ;n

M )'

ki :

i! '

At seven in the evening, wo brought to, in tliirty-three fathom, with a fine sandy bottom ;
at ten we had fifty fathom, and at twelve wore in sixty-five fathom, having driven several
miles N.X.W, after our having brought to. At two in the morning, we had no ground
with 140 fathom, by which it appears tliat the soundings extend but a little way from the
shore. About this time it fell calm ; at eight, a breeze sprung up at S.W. with which wo
steered along the shore, in the direction of N.E. by E. j E. at the distance of about three
leagues. At six in the evening, being about one league from the shore, we had seventeen
fathom ; and at eight, being about three leagues from the shore, we had forty-four ; we now
shortened sail, and brought to, having run ten leagues N.E. by E. since noon.

It was calm most part of the night ; but at ten in the morning a light breeze sprung up
at S.W. by W., when wo made sail again along the shore N.E. by N., having a large swell
from the W.S.W. which had risen in the night ; at noon, our latitude, by observation, was
43' 4' S., and our longitude from Cape West 4° 12' E. Wo observed, that the valleys as
well as the mountains wore this morning covered with snow, part of which we supposed to
have fallen during the night, when we had rain. At six in the evening we shortened sail,
and at ten brought to, at the distance of about five leagues from the shore, where we had
1 15 fathom. At midnight, there being little wind, we made sail, and at eight in the morning
we stood to the N.E. close upon a wind till noon, when we tacked, being about three leagues
from the land, and, by observation, in latitude 42° 8', and longitude from Cape West 5° 5' E.
We continued to stand westward till two in the morning, when we made a trip to the
ea<:tward, and afterwards stood westward till noon, when, by our reckoning, we were in the
latitude 42° 23', and longitude from Cape West 3° 55' E. Wo now tacked and stood east-
ward, with a fresh gale at N. by W. till six in the evening, when the wind shifted to the
S. and S.S.W,, with which we steered N.E. by N. till six in the morning, when we hauled
in E. by N. to make the land, which we saw soon afterwards ; at noon, our latitude, by
account, was 41° 37', and our longitude from Cape West 5° 42' E. We were now within
three or four leagues of the land, but it being foggy, we could see nothing upon it distinctly,
and as we h: d much wind, and a vast swell rolling in upon the shore, from the W.S.W. , I
did not think it safe to go nearer.

In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze from the S.S.W., with which we steered north
along the shore till eight, when, being within between two and three leagues, wo sounded,
and had but thirty- four fathom ; upon which we hauled off N. W. by N. till eleven at night,
and then brought to, having sixty-four fathom. At four in the morning, we made sail to
the N.E. with a light breeze at S.S.W. which at eight veered to the westward, and soon
after died away ; at this time we were within three or four miles of the land, and had fifty-
four fathom, with a large swell from the W.S.W., rolling obliquely upon the shore, which
made me fear that I sliould be obliged to anchor ; but by the help of a light air now and
then from the S.W. I was able to keep tlie ship from driving. At noon, the northernmost
land in sight bore N.E. by E. ^ E. distant about ten leagues; our latitude, by account, was
40° 55' S., longitude from Cape West 6° 35' E. From this time we had light airs from the
southward, with intervals of calm, till noon on the 23d, when our latitude, by observation,
was 40° 36' 30" S., ami our longitude from Capo West 6° 52' E. The eastenimost point of
land in sight bore E. 10 N., at the distance of seven leagues, and a bluff head or point, of
which we had been abreast at noon the day before, and off which lay some rocks above water,
bore S. 10 W. at the distance of six leagues. This po- I called Kock's Point. Our lati-
tude was now 40° 55' S., and having nearly run down tlie whole of the north-west coast of
Tovy Poenammoo, I shall give some account of the face of the country.

I have already observed, that on the 11th, when we were off the southern part, the land
then seen was craggy and mountainous, and there is great reason to believe that the same
ridge of mountains extends nearly the whole length of the island. Between the westernmost
land which we saw that day, and the easternmost which we saw on the 13th, there is a space
of about six or eight leagues, of which wo did not dt-u ♦,he coast, though wo plainly discovered
the mountains inland. The sea-coast near Capo West is low, rising with an easy and gradual
ascent to the foot of the mountains, and being in most parts covered with wood. From
Point Five Fingers, down to latitude 44° 20 , there ia a narrow ridge of hills that rises

March, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

lUl

directly from the sea, and is covered with wood : close behind these hills arc the mountains,
extending in another ridge of a stupendous height, and consisting of rocks that arc totally
barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow, wliicli is to be seen in largo
patches upon many parts of them ; and has probably lain there ever since the creation of the
world : a prospect more rude, craggy, and desolate than this country affords from the sea,
cannot possibly be conceived, for, as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing appears but tlic
summits of rocks, which stand so near togetlier, that instead of valleys there are only fissures
between them. From the latitude of 44° 20', to the latitude of 42^ 8', these mountains lie
farther inland, and the sea-coast consists of woody hills and vallej-s, ?f various height and
extent, and has much appearance of fertility : many of the valleys form plains of consider-
able extent, wholly covered with wood; but it is very probable that the ground, in many
places, is swampy, and interspersed with pools of water. From latitude 42° l\', to 41°
30', the land is not distinguished by anything remarkable : it rises into hills directly from
the sea, and is covered with wood ; but the weather being foggy while we were upon this
part of the coast, we could see very little inland, except now and then the summits of the
mountains, towering above the cloudy mists that obscured them below, which confirmed my
opinion that a chain of mountains extended from one end of the island to the other.

In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze at S.W., which, before it was quite dark,
brought us abreast of the eastern point which we had seen at noon ; but not knowing what
course the land took on the other side of it, we brought to in thirty-four fathom, at tho
distance of about one league from the shore. At eight in the evening, there being little
wind, we filled and stood on till midnight, and then we brought to till four in the morning,
when we again made sail, and at break of day we saw low land extending from the point to
the S.S.E. as far as the eye could reach, the eastern extremity of which appeared in round
hillocks : by this time the gale had veered to the eastward, which obliged us to ply to wind-
ward. At noon next day, the eastern point bore S.W. by S., distant sixteen miles, and our
latitude was 40° 19' : the wind continuing easterly, we were nearly in the same situation at
noon on the day following. About three oV-lock the wind came to the westward, and we
steered E.S.E. with all the sail we could set till it was dark, and then shortened sail till tho
morning : as we had thick hazy weather all night, we kept sounding continually, and had
from thirty-seven to forty-two fathom. When the day broke we saw land bearing S.E. by
E., and an island lying near it, bearing E.S.E., distant about five leagues : this island I knew
to be the same that I had seen from the entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound, from which
it bears N. W. by N., distant nine leagues. At noon, it bore south, distant four or five miles,
and the north-west head of the sound S.E. by S., distant ten leagues and a half. Our lati-
tude, by observiition, was 40° 33' S.

As we had now circumnavigated the whole country, it became necessary to think of
quitting it ; but as I had thirty tons of empty water casks on board, this could not be doi:o
till I had filled them : I therefore hauled round the island, and entered a bay, which lies
between that and Queen Ciiarlotte's Sound, leaving three more islands, which lay close
under the western shore, between three or four miles within the entrance, on our starboard
hand : while we were running in, we kept the lead continually going, and had from forty
to twelve fathom. At six o'clock in the evening, we anchored in eleven fathom with a
muddy bottom, under the west shore, in the second cove, that lies within three islands ; and
as soon as it was light the next morning, I took a boat, and went on shore to look for a
watering place, and a proper berth for the ship, both which I found, much to my satisfac-
tion. As soon as the ship was moored, I sent an officer on shore to superintend the watering,
and the carpenter, with his crew, to cut wood, while the long-boat was employed in landing
the empty casks.

In this employment we were busy till the 30th, when the wind seeming to settle at S.E.,
and our water being nearly completed, wc warped the ship out of the cove, that we might
have room to get under sail ; and at noon I went away in the pinnace to examine as nmch
of the bay as my time would admit. After rowing about two leagues up it, I wert ashore
upon a point of land on the western side, and having climbed a hill, I saw the western arm
of this bay run in S.W. by W. about five leagues farther, yet I cuuld uot discover the end

■ ,

'f'lj

• < ' '1.:

!!.r

■I!

■'i

!i.

182

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mahcii, 1770.

. Vi

tl I

'Mm

!<r

of it : there appeared to be several other inlet?, or at least small bays, between this and tho
north-west head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, in each of which, I make no doubt, there is
anchorage and shelter, as they are all covered from the sea-wind by the islands which lie
without them. The land about this bay, as far as I could see of it, is of a hilly surface,
chiefly covered with trees, shrubs, and fern, which render travelling difficult and fatiguing.
In this excursion I was accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who found several
new plants. We met with some huts, which seemed to have been long deserted, but saw no
inhabitants. Mr. Banks examined several of the stones that lay upon the beach, which
were full of veins, and had a mineral appearance ; but he did not discover anything in them
which he knew to be ore : if he had bad an opportunity to examine any of the bare rocks,
perhaps he might have been more fortunate. lie was also of opinion that what I had taken
for marble in another place, was a mineral substance ; and that, considering the correspond-
ence of latitude between this place and South America, it was not improbable but that, by
a proper examination, something very valuable might be fotmd.

At my return in tho evening, I found all the wood and water on board, and the ship ready
for the sea ; I resolved therefore to quit the country, and return home by such a route na
might be of most advantage to the service; and upon this subject took the opinion of my
officers. I had myself a strong desire to return by Cape Horn, because that would have
enabled me finally to determine, whether there is or is not a southern continent ; but against
this it was a sufficient objection that Ave must have kept in a high southern latitude in tho
very depth of winter, with a vessel which was not thought sufficient for the undertaking ;
and the same reason was urged against our proceeding directly for the Cape of Good Hope,
with still more force, because no discovery of moment could je hoped for in that route ; it
w.as therefore resolved that we should return by the East Indies, and that with this view we
should, upon leaving the coast, steer westward, till we should fall in with the east coast of
New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the northward, till wc should
a;rive at its northern extremity ; but if that should be found impracticable, it was further
resolved that we should endeavour to fall in with the land, or islands, said to have been
discovered by Quiros. AVitli this view, at break of day on Saturday the 31st of March,
1 770, we got under sail, and put to sea, with the advantage of a fresh gale at S.E., and
clear weather, taking our departure from the eastern point, which we had seen at noon on
the 23rd, and to which, on this occasion, I gave the name of Cape Farewell.

The bay out of which we had just sailed I called Admiralty Bay, giving the name of
Cape Stephens to the north-west point, and Cape Jackson to the south-cast, after tho two
gentlemen who at this time were secretaries to the board. Admiralty Bay may easily be
known by the island that has been just mentioned, which lies two miles N.E. of Cape
Stephens, in latitude 40' 37' S., longitude 185" 6' W., and is of a considerable height.
Between this island and Cape Farewell, which are between fourteen and fifteen leagues
distant from each other, in the direction of W. by N. and E. by S., the shore forms a large
deep bay, the bottom of which we could scarcely see while we were sailing in a straight
line from one cape to the otlier ; it is, however, probably of less depth than it appeared to
be, for as we found the water shallower here than at the same distance from any other part
of the coast, there is reason to suppose that the land at the bottom which lies next the sea
is low, and therefore not easily to be distinguished from it. I have for this reason called it
Blind Bay, and am of opinion that it is the same which was called Murderer''8 Bay by
Tasman. Such particulars of this country and its inhabitants, with their manners and
customs, as could be learnt while we were circumnavigating the coast, shall now be
related.

! ''

i« I

CHAPTER VIII. — A GENERAL ACCOUNT OF NEW ZEALAND : ITS FIRST DISCOVERY, SITUATION,

EXTENT, CLIMATE, AND PRODUCTIONS.

New Zealand was first discovered by Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutch navigator, whose
name has been several times mentioned in this narrative, on the 13th of December, in tho
year 1()42. He traversed the eastern coast from latitude 34= to 43°, and entered the strait

Mahcii, 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOVAOE KOUNU THE WOULD.

ins

wliiuli divides tlic two islands, and in tlic chart is called Cook's Sthait ; but being attacked
by the natives soon after lie came to an anchor, in the place to which be gave the name of
3Iurderer's Bay, he never went ou shore. He gave the country the name of Staatkn
Land, or the land of the States, in honour of tlie states-general, and it is now generally
distinguished in our maps and cliarts by the name of Ni;w Zkalanu. As the whole of this
country, except that part of tho coast which was seen by Tasman from on board his ship,
has from his time, to the voyage of the Endeavour, remained altogether unknown, it has by
many been supposed to be part of a southern continent. It is, however, now known to
consist of two large islands, divided from each other by a strait or passage, which is about
four or five leagues broad. These islands .are situated between the latitudes of 34° and
48° S., and between tho longitudes of 181° and 194° W., Avhich is now determined with
uncommon exactness, from innumerable observations of the sun and moon, and one of tho
transits of IMercury, by Mr. Green, a person of known abilities, who, as has been men-
tioned before, was scut out by the Royal Society, to observe the transit of Venus in the
South Seas.

The northernmost of these islands is called by tho natives Eaheinomauwe, and tho
southernmost Tovy, or Tavai Poenammoo ; yet, as I have observed before, we are not sure
whether the name Tovy Poenaujmoo comprehends the whole southern island, or only part of
it. The figure and extent of these islands, with the situation of the bays and harbours they
contain, and the smaller islands that lie about them, will appear from the chart that I have
drawn, every part of which, however, I cannot vouch to be equally accurate *. The coast
of Eaheinomauwe, from Cape Palliser to East Cape, is laid down with great exactness
both in its figure, and the coui'sc and distance from point to point ; for the opportunities
that offered, and the metliods that I used, were such as could scarcely admit of an error.
From East Cape to St. Alaria van Diemen, the chart, though perhaps not equally exact, ia
without any error of moment, except possibly in some few jjlaces which are here, and in
other parts of the chart, distinguished by a dotted line, and which I had no opportunity to
examine : from Cape Jlaria van Diemen to latitude 36° 1 a', we were seldom nearer tho
shore than between five and eiglit leagues ; and therefore the line that marks tho sea-coast
may possibly be erroneous. From latitude 3G" 15', to nearly the length of Entry Island,
our course was very near the shore, and in this part of the chart therefore there can be no
material error, except perhaps at Cape Tierawitte. B-.'tween Entry Island and Cape
I'alliser Ave were again farther from the shore, and this part of the coast, therefore, may not
be laid down with minute exactness ; yet, ui)ou the whole, I am of opinion that this island
will be found not much to differ from the figure that I have given it, and that upon the
coast there are few or no harbours wliich are not noticed in the journal, or delineated in the
chart. I cannot, however, say as much of Tovy Poenammoo : the season of the year, and
the circumstances of the voyage, would not permit me to spend so much time about this
island as I had employed upon tho other ; and the storms that we met with made it both
difficult and dangerous to keep near the shore. However, froui Queen Cliarlotte's Sound
to Cape Campbell, and as far to the S.W. as latitude 43", the chart will be found pretty
accurate. Between latitude 43° and latitude 44° 20' the line may be doubted, for of some
part of the coast which it represents we had scarcely a view. From latitude 44° 20', to
Cape Saunders, our distance would not permit me to be particular, and the weather was
besides extremely unfavourable. From Cape Saunders to Cape South, and even to Capo
AVest, there is also reason to fear that tho chart will in many places be found erroneous,
as we were seldom able to keep the shore, and were sometimes blown to such a distance that
it could not be seen. From Cape West to Cape Farewell, and even to Charlotte's Sound,
it is not more to be trusted.

Tovy Poenauirnoo is for the most part a mountainous, and to all appearance a barren
country; and the people whom we saw in Queen Charlotte's Sound, those that came off to
us under the snowy mountains, and the fires to tho wo^t of Cape Saunders, were alt the
inhabitants, and signs of inhabitants, that we discovcicd upon the whole island. Eaheino-

i ':■!!

* A ninp compiled from tbo best modern iiutlioriticB is kiibstittitid in the jicscut cilition fir Cuplniii Cook'
ciiurt, — Kd.

184

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1770.

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mauwe has a niucli better appearance ; it ia indeed not only hilly but mountainous, yet even
the hills and mountains are covered with wood, and every valley has a rivulet of water :
the soil in these valleys, and in the plains, of which there are many that are not overgrown
with wood, is in general light but fertile, and in the opinion of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander,
as well as of every other gentleman on board, all kinds of European grain, plants, and fruit,
would flourish here in the utmost luxuriance : from the vegetables that we found liere, there
is reason to conclude that the winters are ntilder than those in England, and we found the
summer not hotter, though it was more equally warm ; so tliat if this country should bo
settled by people from Europe, they would, witli a little industry, be very soon supplied not
only with the necessaries, but the luxuries of life in great abundance.

In this country there arc no quadrupeds but dogs and rats, at least we saw no other, and
the rats are so scarce that many of us never saw them. The dogs live with the people,
who breed them for no other purpose than to eat : there might indeed be quadrupeds that
we did not see ; but this is not probable, because the chief pride of the natives, with respect
to their dress, is in the skins and hair of such animals as they have, and we never saw the
skin of any animal about them but those of dogs and birds : there are indeed seals upon the
coast, and we once saw a sea-lion, but we imagine they are seldom caught, for though we
saw some of their teeth, which were fashioned into an ornament like a bodkin, and worn
by the natives at their breast, and highly valued, we saw none of their skins : there are
whales also upon this coast, and though the people did not appear to have any art or
instrument by which such an animal could be taken and killed, we saw pattoo-pattoos in
the possession of some of them, which were made of the bone of a whale, or of some other
animal whose bone had exactly the same appearance.

Of birds the species are not many j and of these none, except perhaps the gannet, is the
same with those of Europe : here are ducks indeed, and shags of several kinds, sufficiently
resembling those of Europe to be called the same, by those who have not examined them
very nicely. Here are also hawks, owls, and quails, which differ but little from those of
Europe at first sight ; and several small birds, whose song, as has been remarked in the
course of the narrative, is much more melodious than any that we had ever heard. The
sea-coast is also visited by many oceanic birds, particularly albatrosses, sheerwaters,
pintados, and a few of the birds which Sir John Narborough has called Penguins, and which
indeed are what the French call Nuance^ and seem to be a middle species between bird and
fish; for their feathers, especially those upon their wings, differ very little from scales; and
their wings themselves, which they use only in diving, and not to accelerate their motion
even upon the surface of the water, may, perhaps with equal propriety, be called fins.
Neitiier are insects in greater plenty than birds : a few butterflies and beetles, flesh flies,
very like those in Europe, and some musquitos and sand flies, perhaps exactly the same
with those of North America, make up the whole catalogue. Of musquitos and sand flies,
however, which are justly accounted the curse of every country where they abound, we did
not see many : there were indeed a few in almost every place where we went on shore, but
they gave us so little trouble, that we did not make use of the shades which we had pro-
vided for the security of our faces.

For this scarcity of animals upon the land, the sea, however, makes an abundant recom-
pense ; every creek swarming with fish, which are not only wholesome, but equally delicious
with those of Europe : the ship seldom onchored in any station, or with a light gale passed
any place, that did not afford us enough with hook and line to serve the whole ship's com-
pany, especially to the southward : when we lay at anchor, the boats, with hook and line,
near the rocks, could take fish in any quantity ; and the seine seldom failed of producing a
still more ample supply ; so that both times when we anchored in Cook's Strait, every
mess in the ship, that was not careless and improvident, salted as much as lasted many
weeks after they went to sea. Of this article, the variety was equal to the plenty ; we had
mackerel of many kinds, among wliicli, one was exactly the same as we have in England :
these came in immense shoals, and were taken by the natives in their seines, who sold them
to us at a very easy rate. Besides these, there were fish of many species which we had
never seen before, but to all which the seamen very readily gave names : so that we talked

AROH, 1770.

Mahch, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

185

IS, yet even

of water:

overgrown

. Solander,

I, and fruit,

licre, there

e found the

' should bo

applied not

other, and
the people,
'upeds that
ith respect
er saw tlie
3 upon the
thongh wo
, and worn
there are
my art or
pattoos in
some other

met, is the
sufficiently
lined them
m those of
ced in the
ard. The
eerwaters,
and which
n bird and
[:ales; and
eir motion
[illed fins,
flesh flies,
' the same
sand flies,
id, we did
sliore, but

had pro-
tit recom-
' delicious
le passed
ip's com-
and line,
aducing a
ait, every
ed many
; we had
England :
lold them

we had
ire talked

hero as familiarly of hakes, bream, cole-fish, and many others, as we do in England ; and
though they are by no means of the same family, it must be confessed that they do honour
to the name. But the highest luxury which the sea aflx)rded us, even in this place, was the
lobster or sea cray-fisli, which are probably the same that in the account of Lord Anson's
Voyage arc said to have been found at the island of Juan Fernandez, except that, although
large, they are not quite equal in size : they differ from ours in England in several particulars;
they have a greater number of prickles on their backs, and they are red when first taken
out of the water. These wo also bought everywhere to the northward in great quantities
of the natives, who catch them by diving near the shore, and finding out where they Ho
with their feet. We had also a fish that Frezicr, in his Voyage to the Spanish Miun in
South America, has described by the names of Ele/ant, Pejef/allo, or Poison cog, which,
though coarse, we eat very heartily. Several species of the skate, or sting-ray, are also
found here, which were still coarser than the Elrfont ; but as an atonement, we had among
many kinds of dog-fish one spotted with white, whic'.i was in flavour exactly similar to oui
best skate, but much more delicious. We had also flat fish resembling both soles and floun-
ders, besides eels and congers of various kinds, with many others of which those who shall
hereafter visit this coast will not fail to find the advantage ; and shell-fish in great variety,
particularly clams, cockles, and oysters.

Among the vegetable productions of this country, the trees claim a principal place ; for
hero are forests of vast extent, full of the straightest, the cleanest, and the largest timber
trees that we had ever seen : their size, their grain, and apparent durability, render them
fit for any kind of building, and indeed for every other purpose except masts ; for which,
as I have already observed, they aro too hard, and too heavy : there is one in particular
which, when we were upon the coast, was rendered conspicuous by a scarlet flower, tliat
seemed to be a compendage of many fibres ; it is about as large as an oak, and the wood is
exceedingly hard and heavy, and excellently adapted to the use of the millwright. There is
another which grows in the swamps, remarkably tall and straight, thick enough to make
masts for vessels of any size, and, if a judgment may be formed by the direction of its grain,
very tough : this, which, as has been before remarked, our carpenter thought to resemble
the pitch-pine, may probably be lightened by tapping, and it will then make the finest
masts in the world : it has a leaf not unlike a yew, aud bears berries in small bunches *.

Great part of the country is covered with a luxuriant verdure, and our natural historians
were gratified by the novelty, if not the variety of the plants. Sow-thistle, garden night-
shade, one or two kinds of grass, the same as in England, and two or three kinds of fern,
like tliose of the West Indies, with a few of the plants that are to be found in almost every
part of the world, were all, out of about four hundred species, that have hitherto been
described by any botanists, or had been seen elsewhere during the course of this voyage,
except about five or six which had been gathered at Terra del Fuego.

Of eatable vegetables there are but few ; our people, indeed, who had been long at sea,
eat, with equal pleasure and advantage, of wild celery, and a kind of cresses, which grew
in great abundance upon all parts of the sea-shore. We .also, once or twice, met with a
plant like what the country people in England call Lamb's quarters, or Fat-hen, which wo
boiled instead of greens ; and once we had the good fortune to find a cabbage-tree, which
affbrded us a delicious meal ; and, except the fern-root, and one other vegetable, totally
unknown in Europe, and which, though eaten by the natives, was extremely disagreeable
to tis, we found no other vegetable production that was fit for food, among those that
appeared to be the wild produce of the country; and we could find but three esculent plants

• New Zealand abounds in timber trees, suitable for a
voriety of purposes, many of tbem being capable of receiv-
ing a fine polish, and equalling in beauty the choicest
Tvoods in use among us. The tree most valualtle for
mercantile purposes, and alluded to above, is the Kauri
or Yellow Pine {Pinus auslralis), which has been
found on long trial to equal in flexibility the best northern
firs, and has been made use of as main and top masts in
some of our largest frigates. The trunk grows to the
height of from fifty to nearly one hundred feet without a

branch protruding. There is an inferior kind of pine,
known as tho Kahikdlia (Jnniperus Nova Zelan-
dicie), which is much used, being very easily worked.

The tree described above, as resembling an oak, is the
Pohutokaua or Potikawa {Metrosideros ejecelsa). It
is well adapted for ship.tiinbcrs, is crooked, close-grained,
brittle, tough, and of a deep brown colour. It is difficult
to work up by the joiner from its extreme hardness, but
when polished forma a beautiful and durable article for
furniture. Itc appearance in flower is splendid. — Ed.

t-. i

i< ii

ti'J

180

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Maiicii, 1770.

among

i:';<'

(

those wliicli are raised by ':uUivatiun — yams, sweet potatoes, and cocos. Of the
yams and potatoes there are plantations consisting of many acres ; and I believe that any
i^hip which sliould happen tu be here in the autumn, when they are dug up, might purchase
them in any quantity. Gourds are also cultivated by the natives of this placi>, the fruit of
which furnishes tliem with vessels for various uses. We also found here the Chinese paper
mulberry-tree, the same as that of which tlie inhabitants of the South Sea Islands make
their cloth ; but it is so scarce, that though the New Zealanders also make cloth of it, they
have not enough for any other purpose than to wear as an ornament in the holes which
they make in their ears, as I have observed before.

But among all the trees, shrubs, and plants of this country, there is not one that pro-
duces fruit, except a berry, which has neither sweetness nor flavour, and which none but the
boys took pains to gather, should be honoured with that appellation. There is, however, a
plant that serves the inhabitants instead of hemp and flax, which excels all that are put to
the same purposes in other countries. Of this plant there are two sorts ; the leaves of bot'Ji
resemble those of flags, but the flowers are smaller, and their clusters more numerous ; in
one kind they are yellow, and in the other a deep red. Of the leaves of these plants, with
very little preparation, they make all their common apparel ; and of these they make also
their strings, lines, and cordage for every purpose, which are so much stronger than any-
thing we can make with hemp, that they will not bear a comparison. From the same
plant, by another preparation, tliey draw long slender fibres which shine like silk, and are
as white as snow : of these, wliich are also surprisingly strong, the finer clothes are made ;
and of the leaves, without any other preparation than splitting them into proper breadths,
and tying the strips together, they make their fishing nets ; some of which, as I have before
remarked, are of an enormous size. A plant wliich, with such advantage, might be applied
to so many useful and important purposes, would certainly be a great acquisition to Eng-
land, where it would probably thrive with very little trouble, as it seems to be hardy, and
to affect no particular soil ; being foimd equally in hill and valley; in the driest mould,
and the deepest bogs : the bog, however, it seems rather to prefer, as near such places we
observed it to be larger than elsewhere *.

I have already observed, that we found great plenty of iron sand in Mercury Bay, and
therefore that iron ore is undoubtedly to be found at no great distance. As to other metals,
we had scarcely knowledge enough of the country for conjecture.

If the settling of this country should ever be thought an object worthy the attention of
Great Britain, the best place for establishing a colony would be cither on the banks of the
Thames, or in the country bordering upon the Bay of Islands. In either place there would
be the advantage of an excellent harbour ; and, by means of the river, settlements might be
extended, and a communication established with tlie inland parts of tlie country : vessels
might be built of the fine timber which abounds in these parts, at very little trouble and
expense, fit for such a navigation as would answer the purpose. I cannot indeed exactly
assign the depth of water wliich a vessel intended to navigate this river, even as far up as
I went with the boat, ohould draw, because this depends upon the depth of water that is
upon the bar, or flats, which lie before the narrow part of the river, for I had no oppor-
tunity to make myself acquainted with them ; but I am of opinion, that a vessel which
should draw not more than twelve feet would perfectly answer the purpose. When we
first arrived upon the coast of this country, we imagined it to be much better peopled than
we afterwards found it, concluding that the inland parts were populous from the smoke that

• The Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax, is a
most invaluable produrtion, and to the natives almost in-
dispensable. Large qnantitics of it have been exported
to Sydney and elsewhere, and cordage mannfuctnred from
it is far superior in strength to any other vegetable fibre.
Some disadvantages attending it have hitherto prevented
its use from extending so far as would otherwise he
the case. No method of cleaning it has hitherto been
found to answer the purpose as well as the slow method
of scraping it by muscle-shell!', as used by the natives,
and all that is brought to market is prepared in this way.

When manufactured into ropes, it is fotmd to take tar very
indifferently, that substance coming off on the hand when
the ropes arc hauled over, a pal|)ablc defect in running
rigging. All attempts to weave it into cloth have also
proved ineffectual. Until some means shall be discovered
for remedying this inconvenience, the u?c of New Zcilund
flax will he very limited. When first brought into notice,
there was a cniifidenible demand, and in 1831, one thou-
sand and sixty- two tons were exported from Sydney to
England ; but from that time the causiimption has de-
cicascd every year. — En.

1770.

Maucii, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

187

wo saw at a considerable distance from tlie shore ; and, perhaps, that may really be the case
with respect to the country beliind Poverty Bay, and the Bay of Tlenty, where the inha-
bitants appeared to be more numerous than in other places. But we had reason to believe
that, in general, no part of the country but the sea-coast is inhabited ; and even there wo
found the people but thinly scattered, all the western coast from Cape ]Maria Van Diemcn
to Mount Egmont being totally desolate ; so that upon the whole the number of inhabitants
bears no pr(i)ortion to the extent of country.

CHAPTER IX. A DESCRIPTION OF THE INHABITANTS, THEIR nADIT\TIONS, APPAREL, ORNA-
MENTS, FOOD, COOKERY, AND MANNER OF LIFE.

The stature of the men in general is equal to the largest of those in Europe : they are

stout, well-limbed, and fleshy ; but not fat, like the lazy and luxurious inhabitants of the

islands in the South Seas : they are also exceedingly vigorous and active ; and have an

adroitness and manual dexterity in an uncommon degree, which are discovered in whatever

they do. I have seen the strokes of fifteen paddles on a side in one of their canoes niado

with incredible quickness, and yet with such minute exactness of time, that all the rowers

seemed to be actuated by one common soul. Their colour in general is brown ; but in few

deeper than that of a Spaniard who has been exposed to the sun ; in many not so deep.

The women have not a feminine delicacy in their appearance, but their voice is remarkably

soft ; and by that, the dress of both sexes being the same, they are principally distinguished :

they have, however, like the women of other countries, more airy cheerfulness, and a greater

flow of animal spirits, than the other sex. Their hair, both of the head and beard, is black,

and their teeth extremely regular, <and as white as ivory : the features of both sexes are

good : they seem to enjoy high health ; and we saw many who appeared to be of a great

age. The dispositions both of the men and women seemed to be mild and gentle : they

treat each other with the tenderest affection, but are implacable towards their enemies, to

whom, as I have before observed, they never give quarter. It may, perhaps, at first seem

strange, that where there is so little to be got by victory, there should so often be war ; and

that every little district of a country inhabited by people so mild and placid, should be at

enmity with all the rest. But possibly more is to be gained by victory among these peoplp

than at first appears, and they may be prompted to mutual hostilities by motives which no

degree of friendship or affection is able to resist. It appears by the account that has already

been given of them, that their principal food is fish, which can only be procured upon the

sea-coast ; and there in sufficient quantities only at certain times : the tribes, therefore, who

live inland, if any such there arc, and even those upon the roast, must be frequently in

danger of perishing by famine. Their country produces neither sheep nor goats, nor hogs,

nor cattle : tame fowls they have none, nor any art by which those that are wild can be

caught in sufficient plenty to serve as provision. If there are any whose situation cuts

them off from a supply of fish, the only succcdaneum of all other animal food, except dogs,

they have nothing to support life but the vegetables that have already been mentioned, of

which the chief are fern-root, yams, clams, and potatoes ; when by any accident these fail,

the distress must be dreadful ; and even among the inhabitants of the coast, many tribes

must frequently be reduced to nearly the same situation, either by the failure of their

plantations, or the deficiency of their dry stock, during the season when but few fish are to

be caught. These considerations will enable us to account, not only for the perpetual

danger in which the people who inhabit this country appear to live, by the care which they

take to fortify every village, but for the horrid practice of eating those who are killed in

battle ; for the hunger of him who is pressed by famine to fight will absorb every feeling

and every sentiment which would restrain him from allaying it w^itli the body of his adversary.

It may, however, be remarked, that if this account of the origin of so horrid a practice is

true, the mischief does by no means end with the necessity that produced it : after the

practice has been once begun on one side by hunger, it will naturally be adopted on the

other by revenge. Nor is this all ; for though it may be pretended by some who wish to

'^1

i 1

I M

Hi;

(•

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1770.

appear speculative and philosophical, that whether the dead body of an enemy be eaten or
buried ia in itself a matter perfectly indifferent ; as it is, whether the breasts or thighs of a
woman should be covered or naked ; and that prejudice and habit only make us shudder at
the violation of custom in one instance, and blush at it in the other : yet leaving tliis as a
point of doubtful disputation, to be discussed at leisure, it may safely be affirmed that the
practice of eating human flesh, whatever it may bo in itself, is relatively, and in its conse-
quences, most pernicious ; tending manifestly to eradicate a principle which is the cliief
security of human life, and more frequently restrains the hand of murder than the sense of
duty, or even the fear of punishment.

Among those who are accustomed to eat the dead, death must have lost much of its horror ;
and where there is little horror at the sight of death, there w'll not be much repugnance to
kill. A sense of duty, and fear of punishment, may be more easily surmounted than the
feelings of nature, or those which have been ingrafted upon nature by early prejudice and
uninterrupted custom. The horror of the murderer arises less from the guilt of the fact than
its natural effect ; and he who has familiarised the effect will consequently lose much of the
horror. By our laws, and our religion, murder and theft incur the same punishment, both
in this world and the next ; yet, of the multitude who would deliberately steal, there are but
very few who would deliberately kill, even to procure much greater advantage. But there
is the strongest reason to believe, that those who have been so accustomed to prepare a human
body for a meal, that they can with as little feeling cut up a dead man as our cook-maids
divide a dead rabbit for a fricassee, would feel as little horror in committing a murder as in
picking a pocket, and consequently would take away life with as little compunction as pro-
perty; so that men, under these circumstances, would bo made murderers by the slight
temptations that now make them thieves. If any man doubts whether this reasoning is
conclusive, let him ask himself, whether in his own opinion he should not be safer with a
man in whom the horror of destroying life is strong, whether in consequence of natural
instinct unsubdued, or of early prejudice, which has nearly an equal influence, than in the
power of a man who, under any temptation to murder him, would be restrained only by con-
siderations of interest ; for to these all motives of mere duty may be reduced, as they must
terminate either in hope of good or fear of evil. The situation and circumstances, however,
of these poor people, as well as their temper, are favourable to those who shall settle as a
colony among them. Their situation sets them in need of protection, and their temper
renders it easy to attach them by kindness ; and whatever may be said in favour of a savage
life among people who live in luxurious idleness upon the bounty of nature, civilization
would certainly be a blessing to those whom her parsimony scarcely furnishes with the
bread of life, and who are perpetually destroying each other by violence as the only alter-
native of perishing by hunger.

But these people, from whatever cause, being inured to war, and by habit considering
every stranger as an enemy, were always disposed to attack us when they were not intimi-
dated by our manifest superiority. At first, they had no notion of any superiority but
numbers ,- and when this was on their side, tluy considered all our expressions of kindness
as the artifices of fear and cunning, to circumvent them and preserve ourselves ; but when
they were once convinced of our power, after having provoked us to the use of our fire-arms,
though loaded only with small-shot, and of our clemency, by our forbearing to make use of
weapons so dreadful except in our defence, they became at once friendly, and even affectionate,
placing in us the most unbounded confidence, and doing everything which could incite us to
put equal confidence in them. It is also remarkable, that when an intercourse was once
established between us, they were very rarely detected in any act of dishonesty. Before,
indeed, and while they considered us as enemies, who came upon their coast only to make
an advantage of them, they did not scruple by any means to make any advantage of us ; and
would, therefore, when they had received the price of anything they had offered to sell, pack
up both the purchase and the purchase-money with all possible composure, as so much lawful
plunder from people who had no view but to plunder them.

I have observed, that our friends in the South Seas had not even the idea of indecency
with respect to any object or any action ; but this was by no means the case with the inha-

March, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

180

bitanta of Now Zealand, in whoso carriage and conversation tlicro >vaa as much modesty,
reserve, and decorum, with respect to actions, which yet in their opinion were not criminal,
as are to bo found among the politest people in Euro])e. The women were not impregnable,
but the terms and manner of compliance were as decent as those in marriage among ua, and
according to their notions the agreement was as innocent. AVhen any of our people made
an overture to one of their young women, he was given to understand that the consent of
her frienda was necessary, ond by the influence of a proper present it was generally obtained ;
but when these preliminaries were settled, it was also necessary to treat the wife for a night
with the same delicacy that is here required by the wife fur life ; and the lover who presumed
to take any liberties by which this was violated, was sure to bo disappointed. One of our
gentlemen, having made his addresses to a family of the better sort, received an answer
which, translated into our language, according to the mode and spirit of it, as well as the
letter, would have been exactly in these terms : " Any of these young ladies will think
themselves honoured by your addresses, but you must first make mo a suitable ])resent, and
you must then come and sleep with us on shore ; for daylight must by no means bo a wit-
ness of what passes between you."

I have already observed, that in personal cleanliness they arc not quite equal to our friends
at Otaheite, because, not having the advantage of so warm a climate, they do not so often go
into tho water ; but the most disgustful thing about them is tho oil, with which, like tho
islanders, they anoint their hair. It is, certainly, the fat either of fish or of birds, melted
down ; and though the better sort have it fresh, their inferiors use that which is rancid, and
consequently are almost as disagreeable to the smell as a Hottentot : neither are their heads
free from vermin, though wo observed that they were furnished with combs, both of bono
and wood. These combs are sometimes worn Btuck upright in the hair as an ornament ; a
fashion which at present prevails among the ladies of England. The men generally wear
their beards short, and their hair tied upon the crown of the head in a bunch, in which they
stick the feathers of various birds in different manners, according to their fancies ; sometimes
one is placed on each side of the temples, pointing forwards, which wc thought made a very
disagreeable appearance. The women wear their hair sometimes cropped short, and some-
times flowing over their shoulders.

The bodies of both sexes are marked with the black stains called Amoco, by the same
method that is used at Otaheite, and called Tattowing ; but the men are more marked, and
the women less. The women in general stain no part of their bodies but the lips, though
sometimes they are marked with small black patches on other parts : the men, on the con-
trary, seem to add something every year to the ornatuents of the last, so that some of them,
who appeared to be of an advanced age, were almost covered from head to foot. Besides the
Amoco, they have marks impressed by a method unknown to us, of a very extraordinary
kind : they are furrows of about a line deep, and a line broad, such as appear upon the bark
of a tree which has been cut through after a year's growth ; the edges of these furrows aro
afterwards indented by the same method, and being perfectly black, they make a most
frightful appearance. The faces of the old men are almost covered with these marks ; those
who are very young, black only their lips, like the women ; when they are somewhat older,
they have generally a black patch upon one cheek and over one eye, and so proceed gra-
dually, that they may grow old and honourable together. But though we could not but be
disgusted with the horrid deformity which these stains and furrows produced in the " human
face divine," we could not but admire the dexterity and art with which they were impressed.
The marks upon the face in general are spirals, which are drawn with great nicety, and
even elegance, those on one side exactly corresponding with those on the other. The marks
on the body somewhat resemble the foliage in old chased ornaments, and the convolutions of
filigree- work ; but in these they have such a luxuriance of fancy, that of a hundred, which
at first sight appeared to be exactly the same, no two were, upon a close examination, found
to be alike. We observed that the quantity and form of these marks were different in dif-
ferent parts of the coast, and that as the principal seat of them at Otaheite was the breech,
in New Zealand it was sometimes the only part which was free, and in general was less
distinguished than any other. The skins of these people, however, are not only dyed, but

if!

: .«' 1

' ki>a

loo

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE IIOITNU THE WORLD.

March, 1770.

ill iff I.

:/ I

painted ; for, as I have before observed, they snioar their bodies with rcd-ochro, some rub-
bing it on dry, and nomc applying it in large patehes, mixed with oil, which is always wet,
and which the least touch will rub oiT; so that the transgressions of such of our people as
were guilty of ravishing a kiss from these blooming beauties were most legibly written upon
their faces.

The dress of a New Zealander is certainly, to a stranger at first sight, the most uncouth
that can be imagined. It is made of the leaves of the flag, which has been described among
the vegetable productions of this country : these leaves are split into three or four slips, and
the slips, when they arc dry, interwoven with each other into a kind of stuff between netting
.ind cloth, with all the ends, which arc eight or nine inches loiig, hanging out on the upper
side, like the shag or thrumb mats which wo sometimes see lying in a p.issage. Of this
cloth, if cloth it may be called, two pieces serve for a complete dress ; one of them is tied
over their shoulders with a string, and reaches as low as the knees ; to the end of this string
is fastened a bodkin of bone, which is easily passed through any two parts of this upper
garment, so as to tack them together ; the other piece is wrapjied round the waist, and reaches
nearly to the ground : the lower garment, howe\er, is worn by the men only upon particular
occasions ; but they wear a belt, to which a string is fastened, for a very singular use. The
inhabitants of the South Sea Islands slit up the prepuce so as to prevent it from covering the
glans of the penis ; but these people, on the contrary, bring the prepuce over the glans, and
to prevent it from being drawn back by the contraction of the part, they liu the string which
hangs from their girdle round the end of it. The glans, indeed, seemed to bo the only part of
their body which they were solicitous to conceal, for they frequently threw off all their dress
but the belt and string, with the most careless indifference, but showed manifest signs of
confusion, when, to gratify our curiosity, they were requested to untie the string, and never
consented but w^ith the utmost reluctance and shame. When they have only their upper
garment on, and sit upon their hams, they bear some resemblance to a thatched house ; but
this covering, though it is ugly, is well adapted to the use of those who frequently sleep in
the open air, without any other shelter from the rain.

But besides this coarse shag or thatch, they have two sorts of cloth, w^hich have an even
surfiice, and are very ingeniously made, in the same manner with that manufactured by the
inhabitants of South America, some of which we procured at Rio de Janeiro. One sort is
as coarse as our coarsest canvass, and somewhat resembles it in the manner of laying the
threads, but it is ten times as strong ; the other is formed by many threads lying very close
one way, and a few crossing them the other, so as to bind them together ; but these are
about half an inch asunder ; somewhat like the round pieces of cane matting which are
sometimes placed under the dishes upon a table. This is frequently striped, and always had
a pretty appearance, for it is composed of the fibres of the same plant, which are prepared
so as to shine like silk. It is made in a kind of frame of the size of the cloth, generally
about five feet long, and four broad, across which the long threads, which lie close together,
or warp, are strained, and the cross threads, or woof, are worlced in by hand, which must
be a very tedious operation.

To both these kinds >f cloth they work borders of different colours, in stitches, somewhat
like carpeting, or rather like those used in the samplers which girls work at school. These
borders are of various patterns, and wrought with a neatness, and even an elegance, which,
considering they have no needle, is surprising : but the great pride of their dress consists in
the fur of their dogs, which they use with such economy, that they cut it into stripes, and
sew them upon their cloth at a distance from each other, which is a strong proof that dogs
are not plenty among them ; these stripes are also of different coloure, and disposed so as to
produce a pleasing effect. We saw some dresses that were adorned with feathers instead of
fur, but these were not common ; and we saw one that was entirely covered with the red
feathers of the parrot. The dress of the man who was killed when we first went ashore in
Poverty Bay has been described already ; but we saw the same dress only once more during
our stay upon the coast, and that was in Queen Charlotte's Sound.

The women, contrary to the custom of the sex in general, seemed to affect dress rather
less than the men : their hair, which, as I have observed before, is generally crept short, is

March, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAiJE HOUND THE U'OIILP.

ncvor tietl upon tlio top of the head wlion it is Hiifforcd to bo long, nor is it ever adorned
with feathers. Tlioir ^'nrinents were niiide (jf the same nmteriiiltt, and in tliu same form, an
those of tlio other sex, but the lower one was always bound fast round them, except when
they went into the water to catcli lobsters, and then they took great care not to be seen by
the men. Some of us happening ont) day to land upon a small island in T(dnga Bay, wo
surprised several of them at this employment ; and the chaste Diana, with her nymphs,
could not have discovered more confusicm and distress at the sight of Activcm than these
women cxpressicd upon our approach. Some of them hid themselves among the rocks, and
the rest crouched down in tho sea till they had made themselves a girdle and apron of such
weeds as they could find ; and when they came out, even with this veil, we could j)ereeivo
that their modesty suftered much pain by our presence. Tho girdle and apron which they
wear in common have been mentioned before.

Hotli sexes bore their cars, and, by stretching them, tho holes become large enough to
admit a finger at least. In these holes they wear ornaments of various kinds, cloth, featliers,
bones of largo birds, and even sometimes a stick of wood ; and to these receptacles of finery
they generally applied the nails which we gave them, and everything which it was possible
they could contain. Tho women sometimes thrust through theni the down of the albatross,
which is as white as snow, and which, spreading before and behind the hole in a bunch
almost as big as tho fist, makes a very singular, and, however strange it may bo thought,
not a disagreeable appearance. Besides the ornaments that are thrust through the holes of
the ears, many others are suspended to them by strings ; such as chisels or bodkins made of
green tale, upon which they set a high value, tho nails and teeth of their deceased relations,
the teeth of dogs, and everything else that they can get, which they think either curio;is or
valuable. The women also wear bracelets and anclcts, made of tho bones of birds, slielU, or
any other substances which they can perforate and string upon a thread. The men had
sometimes hanging to a string, which went round the neck, a piece of green tale, or whale-
bone, somewhat in tho shape of a tongue, with the rude figure of a man carved upon it ; and
upon this ornament they set a high value. In one instance, we saw tho gristle that divides
the nostrils, and called by anatomists the septum nasi, perforated, and a feather thrust
throurirh tho hole, which projected on each side over the cheeks : it is probable that this
frightful singularity was intended as an ornament ; but of the m.any people we saw, wo
never observed it in any other, nor even a perforation that might occasionally serve for such
a purpose.

Their houses are the most inartificially made of anything among them, being ^•ca^cely
equal, except in size, to an English dog-kennel : they are seldom more than eighteen or
twenty feet long, eight or ten broad, and five or six high, from the pole that runs from one
end to the other, and forms the ridge, to the groimd. The framing is of wood, generally
slender sticks, and both walls and roof consist of dry grass and hay, which, it must be con-
fessed, is very tightly put together ; and some are also lined with the bark of trees, so that
in cold weather they must attbrd a very comfortable retreat. The roof is sloping, like those
of our barns, and the door is at one end, just high enough to admit a man, creeping upon
his hands and knees : near the door is a square hole, which serves the double office of window
and chimney, for the fire-place is at that end, nearly in the middle between the two sides.
In some conspicuous part, and generally near the door, a plank is fixed, covered with carving
after their manner : this they value as wo do a picture, and in their estimation it is not an
inferior ornament. The side-walls and roof project about two feet beyond the walls at each
end, so as to form a kind of porch, in which there are benches for the accommodation of the
family. That part of the floor which is allotted for the fire-place is inclosed in a hollow
square, by partitions either of wood or stone, and in the middle of it the fire is kindled.
The floor, along the inside of the walls, is thickly covered with straw, and upon this the
family sleep. Their furniture and implements consist of but few articles, and one chest
commonly contains them all, except their provision-baskf Is, the gourds that hold their fresh
water, and the hammers that are used to beat their fern-root, which generally stand without
the door : some rude tools, their clothes, arms, and a few feathers to stick in their hair, make
the rest of their treasure. Some of the better sort, whose families are large, have three or

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four houses inclosed within a court-yard, the walls of which are constructed of poles and
hay, and are about ten or twelve feet high.

When we were on shore in the district called Tolaga, wo saw the ruins, or rather the
frame of a house, for it had never been finished, much superior in size to any that we saw
elsewhere : it was thirty feet in Icngtii, about fifteen in breadth, and twelve high : the £>ide3
of it were adorned with many carved planks, of a workmanship much superior to any other
that we had met with in the country ; but for what purpose it was built, or why it was
deserted, we could never harn. But these people, though in their houses they are so well
defended from the inclemency of the weather, seem to be quite indifferent whether they have
any shelter at all during their excursions in search of fern-root's and fish, sometimes setting
up a small shade to windward, and sometimes altogether neglecting even that precaution,
sleeping with their women and children under bushes, with their weapons ranged round
them, in the manner that has already been described. The party, consisting of forty or
fifty, whom we saw at Mercury Bay, in a district which the natives call Opoorage, never
erected the least shelter while wo staid there, though it sometimes rained incessantly fur
four-and-twenty hours together.

The articles of their food have been enumerated already ; the principal, which to them is
what bread is to the inhabitants of Europe, is the roots of the fern which grows upon the
hills, and is nearly the same with what grows upon our high commons in England, and is
called indifferently fern, bracken, or brakes. The birds, which sometimes serve them for a
feast, are chiefly penguins and albatrosses, with a few other species that have been occa-
sionally mentioned in this narra tive. Having no vessel in which water can be boiled, their
cookery consists wholly of baking and roasting. They bake nearly in the same manner as
the inhabitants of the South Seas, and to the account that has been already given of their
roasting, nothing need be added, but that the long skewer or spit to which the flesh is
fastened is placed sloping towards the fire, by setting one stone against the bottom of it, and
supporting it near the middle with another, by the moving of which, to a greater or less
distance from the end, the degree of obliquity is increased or diminished at pleasure.

To the northward, as I have observed, there are plantations of yams, sweet potatoes, awi
cocos, but we saw no such to the southward ; the inhabitants, therefore, of that part of thu
country must subsist wholly upon fern-root and fish, except the scanty and accidental
resource which they may find in sea-fuwl and dogs ; and that fern and fish arc not to be
procured at all seasons of the year, even at the sea-side, and upon the neighbouring hills, is
manifest from the stores of both that we saw laid up dry, and the reluctance which some of
them expressed at selling any part of them to us when we offered to purchase them, at least
the fish, for sea stores. And this particular seems to confirm my opinion, that tltis country
scarcely sustains the present number of its inhabitants, who are urged to perpetual hcstilities
by hunger, which naturally prompf ?d them to eat the dead bodies of those who were slain in
the contest. Water is their universal and only liquor, as far as we could discover; and if
they have really no means of intoxication, they are, in this particular, happy beyond any
other people that we have yet s> n or heard of.

As there is, perhaps, no source of disease, either critical or ciironic, but intemperance
and inactivity, it cannot be thought strange that these people enjoy perfect and uninter-
rupted health. In all our visits to their towns, where young and old, men and women,
crowded about us, prompted by the same curiosity that carried us to look at them, we never
saw a single person who appeared to have any bodily complaint, nor among the numbers
that wo havt seen naked did we cnce perceive the slightest eruption upon the skin, or any
marks vhat au eruption had left behind. At first, indeed, observing that some of them
when they came off to us were marked in patches with a white flowery appearance upon
different parts of their bodies, we thought that they were lepiois, or highly scorbutic; but
upon examination we found that tliese marks were owing u their having been wetted by
the spray of the sea in their passage, which, when it was dried away, left the salts behind it
in a fine white powder.

Another proof of health, which we have mentioned upon a former occasion, is the facility
with which the wounds healed that had loft scars behind them, and that we saw in a recent

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

103

state ; when we saw the man who had been shot with a mnsket-ball through the fleshy pare
of his Jirm, his wound seemed to be so well digested, and in so fair a way of being perfectly
healed, that if I had not known no application had been made to it, I should certainly have
inquired, with a very interested curiosity, after the vulne.ary herbs and surgical art '.f tiie
country. A farther proof that human nature is here untainted with diseas2, is tlie great
number of old men that we saw, many of wlioni, by the loss of their hair and teeth, appeared
to be very ancient, yet none of them were decrepit ; and though not equal to the young in
muscular strength, were not a whit behind them in cheerfulness and vivacity.

CHAPTER X. — OP THE CANOES AND NAVIGATION OP THE INHABITANTS OF NEW ZEALAND:
THEIR TILLAGE, WEAPONS, VND MDSIC : GOVERNMENT, RELIGION, AND LANGUAGE : WITH
SOME REASONS AGAINST THE EXISTENCE OP A SOUTHERN CONTINENT.

The ingenuity of these people appears in nothing more than in their canoes : they are
long and narrow, and in shape very much resck::ble a New E.igland whale-boat : the larger
sort seem to be built chiefly for war, and will carry from forty to eighty, or a hundred
armed men. We measured one which lay ashore at Tolaga : she was sixty-eight feet and
a half long, five feet broad, and throe feet and a half deep ; the bottom was sharp, with
straight sides like a wedge, and consisted of three lengths, hollowed out to about two
inches, or an inch and a half thick, and well fast' ned together with strong plrxiting : each
side consisted o' one enl,ire plank, sixty- Miree feet long, ten or twelve inches broad, and
about an inch and a qu'xrter thick, and these were fitted and lashed to the bottom part with
great dexterity and strength. A considerable number of thwarts were laid from gunwale
to gunwale, to which they were securely lashed on each side, as a strengthening to tlie boat.
The ornament at the head projected five oi six feet beyond the body, and was about four
feet and a half high ; the ornament at the stem was fixed upon that end, as the stern-post
of a ship is upon her keel, and was about fourteen feet high, two feet broad, and an inch
and a half thick. They both consisted of boards of carved work, of which the design was
much better than the execution. All their canoes, except a few at Opoorage or Mercury
Bay, which were of one piece, and hollowed by nre, are built after this plan, and few are
less than twenty feet long : some of the smaller sort have outriggers, and sometimes two of
them are joined together, but this is not common. The carving upon the stern and head
ornaments of the inferior boats, which seemed to be intended wholly f ^r fishing, consists of
the figure of a man, with a face as ugly as can be conceived, and a monstrous tongue thrust

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

March, 1770.

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out of the moutli, with the white shells of sea-cars stuck in for the eyes. But the canoes
of the superior kinil, which seem to bo their men-of-war, are magnificently adorned with
open-work, and covered with loose fringes of black feathers, which had a most elegant
appearance : the gimwale boards were also frequently carved in a grotesque taste, and
ad(jrncd with tufts of white feathers placed upon a black ground. Of visible objects that
are wholly new, no verbal description can convey a just idea, but in proportion as they
resemble some that are already known, to which the mind of the reader must be referred :
the carving of these people being o' a singular kind, and not in the likeness of anything
that is known on our side of the ocean, either " in the heaven above, or in the earth beneath,
or in the waters that are under tl'.e earth," I must refer w'holly to the reprflsentations
which will be found of it in the cut.

Tlie paddles are small, light, and neatly made ; the blade is of an oval shape, or rather of
a shape resembling a large leaf, pointed at the bottom, broadest in the middle, and gradually
losing itself in the shaft, the whole length being about six feet, of which the shaft or loom
including the handle is four, and the blade two. By the help of these oars they push on
their boats with .amazing velocity. In sailing they are not expert, having no art of going
otherwise than before the wind : the sail is of netting or mat, which is set up between two
poles that are fixed upright upon each gunwale, and serve both for masts aid yards : two
ropes answered the purpose of sheets, and were consequently fastened above to the top of
each pole. But clumsy and inconvenient as this apparatus is, they make good way before
the wind, and are steered by two men who sit in the stern, with ca< h ;i paddle in his hand
for that purpose.

Having said thus much of their workmanship, I shall now ;^;i " : xccount of their
tools : they have adzes, axes, and chisels, which serve them also ua augers for the boring of
holes : as they have no metal, their adzes and axes are made of a hard black stone, or of
a green talc, which is not only hard but tough ; and their chisels of human bone, or small
fragments of jasper, which they chip off from a block in sharp angular pieces like a gun-
flint. Their axes they value above all that they possess, and never would part with one
of them for anything that we could givo : I once offered one of the best axes I had in the
ship, besides a number of other things, for one of them, but the owner would not sell it ;
from which I conclude that good ones are scarce among them. Their small tools of jasper,
which are used in finishing their nicest work, thoy use till they are blunt, and then, as they
have no means oi' sharpening them, throw ihem away. We have given the people at
Tolaga a piece of glass, and in a short time they found means to drill a hole through it,
in order to hang it round the neck as an orn.ament by a thread ; and we imagine the tool
must have been a piece of this jasper. ^low they bring their large tools first to an edge,
and sharpen the weapon which they cad Patoo-Patoo, we could not certainly loarn : but
probably it is by bruising the same substance to powder, and, with this, gr •;,',•;.''; two
pieces against each other.

Tlieir nets, particuljirly their seine, which is of an enormous size, have b"p f sliced
already: one of these seems to be the joint work of a >v'.:oIe town, and I suppc.-. u ' j bo
the joint property also : the other net, which is circular, and extended by two oi' Jr e
hoops, has been particularly described, as well as the manner of baiting and using it.
Their hooks are of bone or shell, and in general are ill made. To receive the fish when it
is caught, and to hold their other provisions, they have baskets of various kinds and
dimensions, very neatly made of wicker-work.

They excel in tillage, as might naturally be expected where the person that sows is to
cat the produce, and where there is so little besides that can be eaten : when we first came
to Tegadoo, a district between Poverty Bay and East Cape, their crops were just covered,
and had not yet begun to sprout; the mould was as smooth as in a garden nd every root
had its small hillock, ranged in a regular quincunx by linos, which w^th *! • i -ljs were still
remaining in the field. We had not an opportunity to see any of these hu l(»j Jmo %vork,
but we saw what serves them at once for spade and plough : this instrumtat is nothing
more than a long narrow stake sharpened to an edge at one end, with a short piece fastened
trsinsv^rsely at a little distance above it, for the convenience of pressing it down with the

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1770.

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March, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE MORLD.

115

CLUBS or NtW ZljLVN!).

foot. With this they turn up pieces of ground six or seven acres in extent, tliough it is not
more than three inches broad ; but as the soil is light and sandy, it makes little rcMstance.
Tillage, weaving, and the other arts of peace, seem to be best known and most practised in
the northern part of this country; for there is little appearance of any of them in the south :
but the arts of war flourish equally through the whole coast.

Of weapons they have no great variety, but such as they have are well fitted for destruc-
tion ; they have spears, darts, battle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. The sjicar is fourteen or
fifteen feet long, pointed
at both ends, and some-
times headed vith bone :
these are grasped by the
middle, so that the part
behind balancinof that be-
fore, makes a push more
difficult to be parried,
than that of a weapon
which is held by the end.
The dart and other wea-
pons have been suffi-
ciently described already;
and it has also been re-
marked, that these people
have neither sling nor
bow. They throw the
dart by hand, and so they
do stones ; but darts and
stones are seldom used,
except in defending their
forts. Their battles, whe-
ther in boats or on shore, are generally hand to hand, and the slaughter must conse-
quently be great, as a second blow with any of their weapons is unnecessary, if the
first takes place : their trust, however, seems to be principally placed in the patoo-
patoo, which is fiistened to their wrists by a strong strap, lest it should be wrenched
from them, and which the principal people generally wear sticking in their girdles,
considering it as a military ornament, and part of their dress, like -he poniard of the
Asiatic, and the sword of the European. They have no defensive armour ; but, besides
their weapons, the chiefs carry a staff of distinction, in the same manner as our officers
do the spontoon : this was generally the rib of a whale, as white as snow, with many orna-
ments of carved work, dog's hair, and feathers; but sometimes it was a stick, about six feet
long, adorned in the same manner, and inlaid with a shell like mother-of-pearl. Those wlio
bore this mark of distinction were generally old, at least past the middle age, and were also
more marked with the Amoco than the rest.

One or more persons, thus distinguished, always appeared in each canoe, when they came
to attack us, according to the size of it. When they came within about a cabh''s length of
the ship, they used to stop ; and the chiefs rising from their seat, put on a dress which seemed
appropriated to the occasion, generally of dog's skin, and holding out their decorated staff, or
weapon, directed the rest of the people what they should do. When they were at too great
a distance to reach us with a lance or a stone, thf^y presumed that we had no weapon with
which we could reach them ; here then the defiance was given, and the words were almost
universally the same, — Haromai, haromai, harrc uta a jxttoo-patoo o^e : " Come to us, come
on shore, and wo will kill you all with our patoo-patoos." While they were uttering these
menaces, they came gradually nearer and nearer, till they were close alongside ; talking at
intervals in a peaceable strain, and answering any questions that we asked them ; and at
intervals renewing their defiance and threats, till being encouraged by our apparent timidity,
they began their war-song and dance, as a prelude to an attack, which always followed, and

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COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

March, 1770.

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NE1V ZEALANDRR PROTRUOINO HIS
TONGUE.

was sometimes continued till it became absolutely necessary to repress them by firing some
small-shot ; and sometimes ended after throwing a few stones on board, as if content with
having offered us an insult which we did not dare to revenge.

The war-dance consists of a great variety of violent motions, and hideous contortions of
the limbs, during which the countenance also performs its part : the tongue is frequently
thrust out to an incredible length, and the eyelids
so forcibly drawn up, that the white appears both
above and below, as well as on each side of the iris,
so as to form a circle round it ; nor is anything
neglected that can render the human shape frightful
and deformed : at the same time they brandish their
spears, shake their darts, and cleave the air with their
patoo-patoos. This horrid dance is always accom-
panied by a song ; it is wild, indeed, but not disagree-
able, and every strain ends in a loud and deep sigh,
which they utter in concert. In the motions of the
dance, however horrid, there is a strength, firmness,
and agility, which we could not but behold with
adm' :;t.<"i ; and in their song they keep time with
such ': s, that I have often heard above a

hundred , i!es struck against the sides of their
boats at once, so as to produce but' a single soand, at
the divisions of their music.

A song not altogether unlike this, they sometimes sing without the dance, and as a peace-
able amusement : they have also other songs which are supg by the women, whose voices
are remarkably mellow and soft, and have a pleasing and tender efiiict ; the time is slow,
and the cadence mournful ; but it is conducted with more taste than could be expected
among the poor ignorant savages of this half-desolate country ; especially as it appeared to
us, who were none of us much acquainted with music as a science, to be sung in parts ; it
was at least sung by many voices at the same time. They have sonorous instruments, but
they can scarcely be called instruments of music ; one is the shell, called the Triton's trumpet,
with which they make a noise not unlike that which our boys sometimes make with a cow's
horn ; the other is a small wooden pipe, resembling a child's nine-pin, only much smaller,
and in this there is no more music than in a pea-whistle. They seem sensible indeed that
these instruments are not musical ; for we never heard an attempt to sing to them, or to
produce with them any measured tones that bore the least resemblance to a tune.

To what has been already said of the practice of eating hiiman flesh, I shall only add, that
in almost every cove where we landed, we found flesh-bones of men near the places where
fires had been made j and that among the heads that were brought on board by the old man,
some seemed to have false eyes, and ornaments in their ears as if alive. That which Mr.
Banks bought was sold with great reluctance by the possessor : the head was manifestly that
of a young person about fourteen or fifteen years of age, and by the contusions on one side
appeared to have received many violent blows, and indeed a part of the bone near the eye
was wanting. These appearances confirmed us in the opinion that the natives of this country
give no quarter, nor take any prisoners to be killed and eaten at a future time, as is said to
liave been a practice among the Indians of Florida : for if prisoners had been taken, this
poor young creature, who cannot be supposed capable of making much resistance, would
probably have been one, and we knew that he was killed with the rest, for the fray had
happened but a few days before.

The towns or Hippahs of these people, which are all fortified, have been sufficiently
described already, and from the Bay of Plenty to Queen Charlotte's Sound they seem to be
the constant residence of the people : but about Poverty Bay, Hawke's Bay, Tegadoo, and
Tolaga, we saw no Hippahs, but single houses scattered at a distance from each other ; yet
upon the sides of the hills there were stages of a great length, furnished with stones and
darts, probably as retreats for the people at the last extremity, as upon these stages a fight

March, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE U'ORI.l).

J! I?

or to

may be carried on with much advantage against those below, who may be reached witli great
effect by darts and stones, which it is impossible for them to throw up with equal force.
And indeed the forts themselves seem to bo no farther serviceable than by enabling the
possessors to repress a sudden attack ; for as there is no supi)ly of water within the lines, it
would be impossible to sustain a siege. A considerable stock of fern-root and dry fish is
indeed laid up in them ; but they may be reserved against seasons of scarcity, and that such
seasons there are, our observations left us no room to doubt ; besides, while an enemy should
be prowling in the neighbourhood, it would be easy to snatch a sujiply of water from the
side of the hill, though it would be impossible to dig up fern-root or catch fish. In this
district, however, the people seemed to live in a state of conscious security, and to avail
themselves of their advantage : their plantations were more numerous, tlieir canoes were more
decorated, and they had not only finer carving, but finer clothes. Tiiis part of the coast
also was much the most populous, and possibly their apparent peace and plenty might arise
from their being imited under one Chief, or King ; for the inhabitants of all this j)art of the
rountry told us, that they were the subjects of Teratu : when they pointed to the residence
of this prince, it was in a direction which we thought inland ; but which, when we knew
the country better, we found to be the Bay of Plenty.

It is much to be regretted that we were obliged to leave this country without knowing
anything of Teratu but his name. As an Indian monarch, his territory is certainly exten-
sive : he was acknowledged from Cape Kidnappers to the northward, and westward as far
as the Bay of Plenty, a length of coast upwards of eighty leagues; and we do not y< t know
how much farther westward his dominions may extend. Possibly the fortified towns which
we saw in the Bay of Plenty may be his barrier ; especially as at Mercury Bay he was not
acknowledged, nor indeed any other single chief; for wherever we landed, or spoke with the
people upon that coast, they told us that we were at but a small distance from their enemies.
In the dominions of Teratu we saw several subordinate chiefs, to whom ^reat respect was
paid, and by whom justice was probably administered ; for upon our complamt to one of
them of a theft that had been committed on board the ship by a man that came with him,
he gave him several blows and kicks, which the other received as the chastisement of autho-
rity, against which no resistance was to be made, and which he had no right to resent.
Whether this authority was possessed by appointment or inheritance we could not learn ;
but we observed that the chiefs, as well here as in other parts, were elderly men : in other
parts, however, we learnt that they possessed their authority by inheritance.

The little societies which we found in the southern parts seemed to have several things in
common, particularly their fine clothes and fishing-nets. Their fine clothes, which possibly
might be the spoils of war, were kept in a small hut, which was erected for that purpose in
the middle of the town : the nets we saw making in almost every house, and the several
parts being afterwards collected were joined together. Less account seems to be made of
the women here than in the South Sea islands ; such at least was the opinion of Tupia, who
complained of it as an indignity to the sex. We observed that the two sexes eat together,
but how they divide their labour we do not certainly know. I am inclined to believe that
the men till the ground, make nets, catch birds, and go out in their boats to fish ; and that
the women dig up fern-roots, collect lobsters and other shell-fish near the beach, dress the
victuals, and weave cloth : such, at least, were their employments when we had an oppor-
tunity of observing them, which was but seldom ; for in general our appearance made a
holiday wherever we went, men, women, and children flocking round us, either to gratify
their curiosity, or to purchase some of the valuable merchandise which we carried about with
us, consisting principally of nails, paper, and broken glass.

Of the religion of these people it cannot be supposed that we could learn much ; they
acknowledge the influence of superior beings, one of whom is supreme, and the rest subordi-
nate ; and gave nearly the same account of the origin of the world, and the production of
mankind, as our friends in Otahcite. Tupia, however, seemed to have a much more deep
and extensive knowledge of these subjects than any of the people here ; and whenever he
was disposed to instruct them, which he sometimes did in a long discourse, he was sure of a
numerous audience, who listened in profound silence, with such reverence and attention, that

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COOK S FIIIST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1770.

L i.

wo could not but wish tlicm a better teacher. What homage tliey pay to the i' itics they
acknowledge, wo could not learn ; but we saw no place of public worship, like the Morals
of the South Sea islanrls : yet we saw, near a plantation of sweet potatoes, a small area, of
a square figure, surroumled with stones, in the middle of which one of the sharpened stakes
which they use as a spado was set up, and upon it was hung a basket of fern-roots. Upon
inquiry, the natives told us that it was an offering to the gods, by which the owner hoped to
render them propitious, and obtain a plentiful crop.

As to their manner of disposing of their dead, wo could form no certain opinion of it, for
the accounts that we received by no means agreed. In luo northern parts, they told us that
they buried them in the ground ; and in the southern, that they threw them into the sea : it
is, however, certain, that we saw no grave in the country, and that they affected to conceal
everything relating to their dead with a kind of mysterious secrecy *. But whatever may
bo the sepulchre, the living are themselves the monuments; for we saw scarcely a single
person of either sex whose body was not marked by the scars of wounds whicli they had
inflicted upon themselves as a testimony of their regret for the loss of a relation or friend.
Some of these woimds we saw in a state so recent that the blood was scarcely stanched,
which shows that death had been among them while we were upon tho coast ; and makes
it more extraordinary that no funeral ceremony should have ftvllen under our notice : some
of the scars were very large and deep, and in many instances had greatly disfigured tho face.
One monument, indeed, we observed of another kind, — the cross that was set up ne.ar Queen
Charlotte's Sound.

Having now given the best account in my power of the customs and opinions of the
inhabitants of New Zealand, with their boats, nets, furniture, and dress, I shall only
remark, that the similitude between these particulars here and in the South Sea islands is a
very strong proof that the inhabitants have the same origin, and that the common ancestors
of both were natives of the same country. They have both a tradition that their ancestors,
at a very remote period of time, came from another country ; and according to the tradition
of both, that the name of that country was IIeawije ; but the similitude of the language
seems to put tho matter altogether out of doubt. I have already observed, that Tupia, when
ho accosted the people hero in the language of his own coimtry, was perfectly understood ;
and I shall give a specimen of the similitude by a list of words in both languages, according
to the dialect of the northern and southern islands of whicli New Zealand consists, by which
it will appear that the language of Otab.eite docs not differ more from that of New Zealand
than the language of the two islands from each other.

ENGLISH.

A Chief
■A man
A woman
The head .
The hair
The ear
The forehead .
The eyes .
T/ie cheeks
The nose .
The mouth
The chin .

N'rW ZEALAND.

NORTIIEIIN.

SOUTHERN

Karectc .

. Earccto

Taata

. . Taata

Wlialiiiie

. AVlialiine

Eiipn

. . Ilcaowpoho

Jlacamvo

. IFeoo-oo

Tcniiiga .

. . Hvtnlieyei

Eiai

. Ilcai .

Mata .

. . llcmata .

Papaiinga

. Ilcpapach

Alifwh

. , Hccih .

l[ango\itou

Hcgaowai

licouwai

. . Ilakaocwai

OTAHEITL.

Earcc.

'J'aata.

Ivahinc.

Eiipo.

Rooiirou.

Tcrrca.

Eiai.

Mata.

Paparea.

Alicw.

Outou.

M Ml'

• Every chief of repute is, on iiia dcatli, included in
tlio long catalogno of tlieir Atuas, or inferior dci lies ; to
whom as many various attributes are attributed as to tlio
multifarious members of the Cireek and Roman mytholo-
gies. The remains of such rliiefs as are supposed to have
become Atuas are f.rst entirely divested of ilesli, and the
bones arc afternnrds de|)08itcil with much ceremony in
buildings erected for the purpose, highly adorned by eaived
Work and rude statues of tlie deceased. From time to
time the bones are taken down and cleaned, and returned
to their rcsting-placo, where offerings of various kinds arc

frequently made to propitiate the favour of tho Atua. They
liave no Creator of the Universe in the catalogue of their
deities ; the chief, or father of their gods, as they call him,
wlio is named Mawe, is said to have fished up New Zea-
land from the bottom of the sea ; but tho rest of the world
was, they insist, created by its own Atuas, and those of
New Zealand have no power over the white men. The
people are remarkably supcistitious, and much under tho
control of their priests, who pretend to converse with their
Atuaa. — Ed.

March, 1770. CO

ENGLISH.

The arm

Thejinqer .

The belly

The navel .

Come hither .

Fish ....

A lobster

Cocas . . ,

Sweet potatoes'

Yams

Birds .

JVo .

One

Two ....

Three .

Four ....

Five

Sijc ....

Seven .

Eight

Nine

Ten ....

The teeth

The wind .

A thief .

To examine

To sing .

Bad ....

Trees .

Grandfather

What do you call this

or that .

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGK ROUND THE WOULD.

NEW ZEALAND. OTAHEITi:

NOIlTIIEnN. SOUTIIF.IIN.

ITiiiingai'iiigu ......... Rem.1,

Miticarii . . . , llmiiiii^'awli . . . Maiifow.

Ateriilpoo ......... Oboo.

Apcto llccapeto .... Pcto.

Ilai'omai .... Ilaromiu . . . . Ilononiai.

lleica . . . . Ileicii . , . . Evca.

Kooura .... Koour.i . . . . Tooura.

Taro Taro .... Taro.

Cumala .... Cmnala . . . . Ciinmla.

Tiipliwlio . . . . Tiipliwlio .... Tupliwho.

Mannu .... Maiiiiii . . . . Maiinu.

Kaoiira . . . . Kaoura .... Oiirc.

Taliai Taliai.

Rua Riia.

Torou .......... Tdioii.

Ila Ilea.

Rcma Rfina.

Oiiu . . . .... . , . . Uiio.

Etii Hctu.

Waiou . . .... . . . . Waiou.

Iva llfva.

Angalioiirou , .... . . . . Almiuou.

Hciiiiilicw . . . Hcncaho . . . . Niliin.

Mcliow Muttai.

Amootoo ......... Teto.

Matakntakc Mataitai.

Klicara .......... IIci%'a.

Kcno . . . : Kvno .... Eno.

Eiatou .... Kratoii . . . . Evaou.

Toubouna • . . . Tuiibuiina . . . Toiibuuna.

Owy Terra Owy Tc: v

li)i)

•it i

;i I

i'i

i N1

' :)

By this specimen, I think it appears to demonstration that the language of New Zealand
and Otaheite is radically the same. The language of the northern and southern parts of
New Zealand differs chiefly in the pronunciation, as the same English word is pronounced
gate in Middlesex, and gecite in Yorkshire : and as the southern and northern words were
not written down by the same person, one might possibly use more letters to produce the
same sound than the other. I must also observe, that it is the genius of the language,
especially in the southern parts, to put some article before a noun, as we do the or a ; the
articles used here were generally ke or ko ; it is also common here to add the word beia
after another word as an iteration, especially if it is an answer to a question ; as we say,
1/es, indeed, to he sure, really, certainly: this sometimes led our gentlemen into the formation
of words of an enormous length, judging by the ear only, without being able to refer each
sound into its signification. An example will make this perfectly understood.

In the Bay of Islands there is a remarkable one, called by the natives Matcaro. One
of our gentlemen having asked a native the name of it, he answered, with the particle,
Kematuaro ; the gentleman hearing the sound imperfectly, repeated his question, and the
Indian repeating his ar^wer, added beia, which made tlie word Kematuarobcia ; and thus it
happened that in the log-book I found Matuaro transformed into Cumettiwarrowbia : and
the same transformation by the same means, might happen to an English word. Suppose a
native of New Zealand at Hackney church, to inquire " What vill.age is this?" the answer
would be, " It is Hackney :" suppose the question to be repeated with an air of doubt and
uncertainty, the answer might be, " It is Hackney indeed," and the New Zealander, if he
had the use of letters, would probably record, for the information of his countrymen, that
during his residence among us he had visited a village called " Ityshakneeindede." Tlia
article used by the inhabitants of the South Sea islands, instead of ke or ko, is to or ta, but
the word beia is common to both ; and when we began to learn the language, it led us into
many ridiculous mistakes.

But supposing these islands, and those in the South Seas, to have been peopled originally
from the same country, it will perhaps for ever remain a doubt what country that is : we

■\m

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200

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. MAncii^lTYO.

,\}l

) ;

were, however, iinanimoualy of opinion, that the people did not come from America, which
lies to the eastward ; and except there should appear to he a continent to the southward, in
a moderate latitude, it will follow that they came from the westward.

Tims far our navigation has certainly been unfavourable to the notion of a southen con-
tinent, for it has swept away at least three-fourths of the positions upon which it has been
founded. The principal navigators, whose authority has been urged on this occasion, are
Tasman, Juan Fernandez, Ilermite, the commander of a Dutch squadron, Quiros, and
Roggcwein ; and the track of the Endeavour has demonstrated that the land seen by these
persons, and supposed to be part of a continent, is not so ; it has also totally subverted the
theoretical arguments which have been brought to prove that the existence of a southern
continent is necessary to preserve an equilibrium between the two hemispheres ; for upon
this principle what we have already proved to be water, would render the southern hemi-
sphere too light. In our route to the northward, after doubling Cape Horn, when we were
in the latitude of 40°, our longitude was 110°; and in our return to the southward, after
leaving Ulietea, when we were again in latitude 40°, our longitude was 145°; the difference
is 35°. Wiien we were in latitude 30° the difference of longitude between the two tracks
was 21°, which continued till we were as low as 20°; but a single view of the chart will
convey a better idea of this than the most minute description : yet as upon a view of the
chart it will appear that there is a large space extending quite to the tropics, which neither
we, nor any other navigators to our knowledge, have explored, and as there will appear to
be room enough for the Cape of a southern continent to extend northward into a low
southern latitude, I shall give my ceason for believing there is no Cape of any southern con-
tinent, to the northward of 40° south.

Notwithstanding what has been laid down by some geographers in their maps, and alleged
by Mr. Dalrymple, with respect to Quiros, it is improbable in the highest degree that he
saw to the southward of two islands, which he discovered in latitude 25° or 26°, and which
I suppose may lie between the longitude of 130° and 140° W., any signs of a continent,
much less anything which, in his opinion, w^os a known or indubitable sign of such land ;
for if he had, he would certainly have sailed southward in search of it ; and if he had sought,
supposing the signs to have been indubitable, he must have found : the discovery of a
southern continent was the ultimate object of Quiros's voyage, and no man appears to have
had it more at heart ; so that if he was in latitude 20° S., and in longitude 146° W., where
Mr. Dalrymple has placed the islands he discovered, it may fairly be inferred that no part
of a southern continent extends to that latitude.

It will, I think, appear with equal evidence from the accounts of Roggewein's voyage,
that between the longitudes of 130° and 150° W. there is no main land to the northward of
35° S. Mr. Pingre, in a treatise concerning the transit of Venus, which he went out to
observe, has inserted an extract of Roggewein's voyage, and a map of the South Seas ; and
for reasons which may be seen at large in his work, supposes him, after leaving Easter
Island, which he places in latitude 28^ S., longitude 123° W., to Iiave steered S. W. as high
as 34° S., and afterwards W.N.W. ; and if this was indeed his route, the proof that there
is no main land to the northward of 35° S. is irrefragable. Mr. Dalrymple indeed supposes
his route to have been different, and tiiat from Easter Isle he steered N.W., taking a course
afterwards very little different from that of La Maire ; but I think it is highly improbable
that a man who, at his own request, was sent to discover a southern continent, should take
a course in which La ]Maire had already proved no continent could he found : it must, how-
ever, be confessed, that Roggewein's track cannot certainly be ascertained, because, in the
accounts that have been published of his voyage, neither longitudes nor latitudes are
mentioned. As to myself, I saw nothing that I thought a sign of land in my route, either
to the northward, southward, or westward, till a few days before I made the east coast of
New Zealand. I did indeed frequently see large flocks of birds, but they were generally
such as are found at a very remote distance from any coast ; and it is also true that I
frequently saw pieces of rock-weed, but I could not infer the vicinity of land from these,
because I have been informed, upon indubitable authority, that a considerable quantity of
the beans called ox-eyes, which are known to grow nowhere but in the West Indies, are

are

April, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

201

every year thrown up on the coast of Ireland, which is not less than twelve hundred leagues
distant.

Thus have I given my reasons for thinking that there is no continent to the northward of
latitude 40" S. Of wliat may lie farther to tlio southward than 40°, I can give no opinion ;
hut I am so far from wishing to discourage any future attempt, finally to determine a
question which lius lung heon an object of attention to many nations, tliat now this voyage
has reduced the only possible site of a continent in tlie southern humis^phere, north of
latitude 40°, to so small a space, I think it would be pity to leave that any longer
unexamined, especially as the voyage may turn to good account, besides determining the
principal question, if no continent should be found, by the discovery of new islands in the
tropical regions, of which there is probably a great number that no European vessol has
ever yet visited. Tupia from time to time gave us an account of about one hundred and
thirty ; and, in a chart drawn by his own hand, ho actually laid down no less than
seventy-four.

BOOK III.

CIIAPTICn I. THE nUN FROM NEW ZEALAND TO BOTANY BAY, ON THE EAST COAST OP

NEW HOLLAND, NOW CALLED NEW SOUTH WALES. VARIOUS INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED

THERE. WITH SOME ACCOUNT OP THE COUNTRY AND ITS INHABITANTS.

Having sailed from Cape Farewell, which lies in latitude 40° 33' S., longitude 186° "NV.,
on Saturday the 31st of March, 1770, we steered westward, with a fresh gale at N.N.E.,
and at nuon, on the 2d of April, our latitude, by observation, was 40°, our longitude from
Cape Farewell, 2" 31' W.

In the morning of the 9th, being in latitude 38° 29' S., we saw a tropic-bird, which in
so high a latitude is very uncommon.

In the morning of the 10th, being in latitude 38° 51' S., longitude, 202° 43' W., we
found the variation, by the amplitude, to be 11° 25' E., and by the azimuth, ll" 20'.

In the morning of the 11th, the variation was 13° 48', which is two degrees and a half
more than the day before, though I expected to have found it less.

In the course of the 13th, being in latitude 39" 23' S., longitude 204° 2' W , I found the
variation to be 12" 27' E., and in the morning of the 14th it was 11° 30' ; this day we also
saw some flying-fish. On the 15th we saw an egg-bird and a gannet, and as these are birds
that never go far from the land, "^v ontinued to sound all night, but had no ground with
130 fathom. At noon, on the lOtli, we were in latitude .39" 45' S., longitude 208° TV. At
about two o'clock the wind came about to the W.S.W., upon which we tacked and stood
to the N.W. ; soon after a small land-bird perched upon the rigging, but we had no ground
with 120 fathom. At eight we wore, and stood to the southward till twelve at night, and
then wore and stood to the N.W. till four in the morning, when we again stood to the
southward, having a fresh gale at W.S.W., with squalls and dark weather till nine, when
the weather became clear, and there being little wind, we had an opportunity to take
several observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which gave 207" 56' W. long. :
our latitude at noon was 39" 30' S. We had now a hard gale from the southward, and a
great sea from the san f^ quarter, which obliged us to run under our fore-sail and niizen all
night, during which we sounded every two hours, but had no ground with 120 fathom.

In the morning of the 18th, we saw two Port Egmont hens, and a pintado bird, which
are certain signs of approaching land, and, indeed, by our reckoning, we could not be far
from it, for our longitude was now one degree to the westward of the east side of Van
Diemen's Land, according to the longitude laid down by Tasman, whom we could not
suppose to have erred much in so short a run as from this land to New Zealand ; and by
our latitude, we could not be above fifty or fifty-five leagues from the place whence he took
his departure. All this day we had frequent squalls and a great swell. At one in the

.ill

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202

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Ai-nir,, 1770.

I. '■

morning we brought to and sonmlcd, but bad no ground witli 130 fathom ; at six wo saw
land extending from N.E. to AV. at tlio distanco of five or six leagues, having eighty fathom
water, with a fine sandy bottom.

We continued standing westward, with the wind at S.S.W., till eight, when we made
all the sail we could, and bore away along the shore N.K. for the eastermost land in eigiit,
bi.ing at this time in latitude 37" •'>B' S., and longitude 'JIO" 39' W. The southerniost point
of land in sight, which bore from us W. J- S., I judged to lie in latitude 38", longitude
21 r T, and gave it the name of Point Hicks, because Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was
the first who discovered it. To the southward of this point no land was to be seen, though
it wa3 very clear in that quarter, and by our longitude, compared with that of Tasnian, not
OS it is laid down in the printed cliarts, but in the extracts from Tasman's journal, published
by Rcmbrantsc, the body of Van Dieincn's Land ought to have borne due south ; and,
indeed, from the sudden falling of the sea after the wind abated, I had reason to think it
did ; yet as I did not sec it, and as I found this coast trend N.E. and S. W,, or rather more
to the eastward, I cannot determine whether it joins to Van Diemen's Land or not.

At noon we were in latitude 37'' 5', longitude 210° 29' W. The extremes of the land
extended from X.W. to E.N.E., and a remarkable point bore N. 20 E., at t'lo distance of
about four leagues. This point rises in a round hillock, very much resembling the Ram
Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, and therefore I called it by the same name.
The variation by an azimuth, taken this morning, was 3° 7 1^- ; and what we had now
seen of the land appeared low and level : the sea-shore was a white sand, but the country
within was green and woody. About one o'clock, we saw three water-spouts at once ; two
were between us and the shore, and the third at some distance, upon our larboard quarter :
this phcpomenon is so well known, that it is not necessary to give a particular description
of it' .e.

A« six o'clock in the evening we shortened sail, and brought to for the night, having fifty-
six fathom water, and a fine sandy bottom. The northermost land in sight then bore
N. by E. \ E., and a small island lying close to a point on the main bore W., distant two
leagues. This point, which I called Cape Howe, may be known by the trending of the
coast, which is north on the one side and south-west on tiic other ; it may alf o be known by
some round hills upon the main, just within it.

We brought to for the night, and at four in the morning made sail along-shore to the
northward. At six the northermost land in sight bore N.N.W., and we were at this time
about four leagues from the shore. At noon we were in latitude 36° 51' S., longitude
209° 53' W., and about three Jcagiics distant from the shore. The weather being clear, gave
us a good view of the country, which has a very pleasing a])pearance : it is of a moderate
height, diversified by hills and valleys, ridges and plains, interspersed with a few lawns of
no great extent, but in general covered with wood : the ascent of the hills and ridges is
gentle, and the summits are not high. We continued to sail along the shore to the
northward, with a southerly wind, and in the afternoon we saw smoke in several places, by
which we knew the country to be inhabited. At six in the evening we shortened sail, and
sounded : we found forty-four fathom water, with a clear sandy bottom, and stood on under
an easy sail till twelve, when we brought-to for the night, and had ninety fathom water.

At four in the morning we made sail again, a', the distance of about five leagues from the
land, and at six we were abreast of a high niountain, lying near the shore, which, on
account of its figure, I called Mount Dromeda hy. Under this mountain the shore forms
a point to which I gave the name of Point Di oMEDAnv, and over it there is a peaked
hillock. At this time, being in latitude 36° 18 S., longitude 209° 55' W., we found the
variation to be 10° 42' E.

Between ten and eleven, Mr. Green and I took several observations of the sun and moon,
the mean result of which gave 209° 17' longitude W. By an observation made the day
before, our longitude was 210° 9' W., from which 20' being subtracted, there remains 209°
49', the longitude of the ship this day at noon, the mean of which, witli this day's observa-
tion, gives 209° 33', by which I fix the longitude of this coast. At noon our latitude was
35" 49' S., Cape Dromedary bore S. 30 W., at the distance of twelve leagues, and an open

irro.

AiMiir, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

2o;j

bay, in wliicli were three or four small inlands, bore N."\V. by W., at tlic distance of five or
six leapucs. This bay seemed to aft'ord b\it little shelter from the sea winds, and yet it is
the only place where there ajipeared a probability of finding anehorago npon the whole
coast. Wo continued to steer along the ahoro N. by K. and N.N.K., at the distance of
about three leagues, and saw smoke in many jilaces near the beach. At five in the evening
we were abreast of a ])oint of land which rose in a jjerpendicular cliff, and which, for that
reason, I called Point Ui'higiit. Our latitude was ^'t" Ufi' S. when this point bore from
us duo west, distant about two leagues : in this situation, we had about thirty-one fathom
water, with a sandy bottom. At six in the evening, the wind falling, we hauled off E.N.K.,
and at this time the northermost land in sight bore N. by E. .J E. At midnight, being in
seventy fathom water, wo brought to till four in the morning, when we made sail in for the
land ; but at day-break found our situation nearly the same as it had been at five the even-
ing before, by which it was apparent that wo had been driven about three leagues to tho
southward, by a tide or current, during the night. After this we steered along the shore
N.N.E. with a gentle breeze at S.W., and were so near the land as to distinguish several of
tho natives npon the beach, who appeared to be of a black, or very dark colour. At noon,
our latitude, by observation, was .35° 27' S. and longitude 209° 2',\ W. ; Cape Dromedary
bore S. 28 AV., distant nineteen leagues; a remarkable peaked hill, which resembled a square
dove-house, with a dome at the top, and which for that reason I called tho Pigeon IIousr,
bore N. 32° 30' W. ; and a small low island, which lay close under the shore, bore N.W.,
distant about two or three leagues. When I first discovered this island, in the morning, I
was in hopes, from its appearance, that I should have found shelter for the ship behind it ;
but when we came near it, it did not promise security even for the landing of a boat. I
should however have attempted to send a boat on shore, if the wind had not veered to that
direction, with a large hollow sea rolling in upon the Land from the S.E., which indeed had
been the case ever since we had been upon it. The coast still continued to be of a moderate
height, forming alternately rocky points and sandy beaches ; but within, between Alount
Dromedary and the Pigeon House, we saw high mountains, which, except two, are covered
with wood : these two lie inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat at the
top, with steep rocky cliffs all round them, as far as we could sec. The trees, which almost
everywhere clothe this country, appear to be large and lofty. This day the variation was
found to be 9° 50' E., and for the two last days, the latitude, by observation, was twelve or
fourteen miles to the southward of the ship's account, which could have been the effect of
nothing but a current setting in that direction. About four in the afternoon, being near five
leagues from the land, we tacked, and stood off S.E. and E., and the wind having veered in
the night, from E. to N.E. and N., we tacked about four in the morning, and stood in,
being then about nine or ten leagues from tho shore. At eight, the wind began to die away,
and soon after it was calm. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 35° 38', and our
distance from the land about six leagues. Cape Dromedary bore S. 37 W., distant seven-
teen leagues, and the Pigeon House N. 40 W. In this situation we had 74 fathom water.
In the afternoon, we had variable light airs and calms, till six in the evening, when a breeze
sprung up at N. by W. : at this time, being about four or five leagues from the shore, we
had seventy fathom water. The Pigeon House bore N. 45 W., Mount Dromedary S. 30
W., and the northermost land in sight N. 19 E.

We stood to the north-east till noon the next day, with a gentle breeze at N.W., and
then we tacked and stood westward. At this time our latitude, by observation, was
35° 10' S., and longitude 208° 51' W. A point of land which I had discovered on St.
George's day, and which therefore I called Cape George, bore W. distant nineteen miles,
and the Pigeon House (tho latitude and longitude of which I found to be 35° 19' S. and
209° 42' W.) S. 75 W. In the morning wt had found the variation, by amplitude, to be
7° 50' E., and by several azimuths 7° 54' E. We had a fresh breeze at N.W. from noon till
three ; it then came to tho west, when we tacked and stood to the northward. At five in
the evening, being about five or six leagues from the shore, with the Pigeon House bearing
W.S.W. distant about nine leagues, we had eighty-six fathom water ; and at eight, having
thunder and lightning, with heavy squalls, we brought to in 120 fathom.

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201

COOKS FIRST .VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Aphil, 1770.

■•

At three in the morning, wc mide sail again to the northward, having the advantage of a
fresli guic at S.W. At noon we were about three or four luagues from the shore, and in
latitude 31'' 22* S., longitude 'J08° 36' W, In the course of this day's run from the preced-
ing noon, which was forty-five miles north-east, wo saw smoke in several places near tho
beach. About two le.igues to the northward of Cape George, the shore seemed to form a
bay, which promised shelter from tho north-east winds ; but as tho wind was with us, it was
not in my power to look into it without beating up, which would have cost me more time than
I was willing to spare. The north point of this bay, on a<-count of its figure, I named Lono
Nose ; its latitude is 35' 0', and about eight leagues north of it there lies a point, which,
from the colour of the land about it, I called Rkd Point : its latitude is 34* 29', and longi-
tude ^J08^ 45' W. To the north-west of Red Point, and a little way inland, stands a round
hill, the top of which looks like tho crown of a hat. In the afternoon of this day we had a
light breeze at N.N.W. till five in the evening, when it fell calm. At this time, wo were
between three and four leagues from the shore, and had forty-eight fathom water : the
variation by azimuth was 8° 48' E. and the extremities of this land were from N.E. by N.
to S.W. by S. Before it was dark, we saw smoke in several places along the shore, and a
fire two or three times afterwards. During the night we lay bccahned, driving in before
the sea till one in the morning, when we got a breeze from the land, with which we steered
N.E., being then in thirty-eight fathom. At noon it veered to N.E. by N., and we were
then in latitude 34* 10' S., longitude 208° 27' W. : the land was distant about five leagues,
and extended from S. 37 W. to N. ^ E. In this latitude there are some white cliffs,
which rise per])cndicularly from the sea to a considerable height. We stood off the shore
till two o'clock, and then tacked and stood in till six, when wc were within four or five
miles of it, and at that distance had fifty fathom water. The extremities of the land bore
from S. 28 W. to N. 25° 30" E. We now tacked and stood off till twelve, then tacked and
stood in again till four in the morning, when we made a trij) o^ till day-light ; and during
all this time we lost ground, owing to the variableness of thr Is. We continued at the
distance of between four and five miles from the shore, til ftornoon, when we came

within two miles, and I then hoisted out the pinnace and yaw. to attempt a landing, but
the pinnace proved to be so leaky that I was oblij^-i to hoif»t her in again. At this timt>
we saw several of the natives walking briskly along tiie shore, four of whom carried a small
canoe upon their shoulders. We flattered ourselves that they were going to put her into
the water, and come off to the ship, but finding ourselves disappointed, I determined to
go on shore in the yawl, with as many as it would carry. I embarked, therefore, with
only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and four rowers : we pulled for that part of the
shore where the Indians appeared, near which four small canoes were lying at the water's
edge. The Indians sat down upon the rocks, and seemed to wait for our landing ; but to
our great regret, when we came within about a quarter of a mile, they ran away into the
woods. We determined, however, to go on shore, and endeavour to procure an interview ;
but in this we were again disappointed, for we found so great a surf beating upon every
part of the beach, that landing with our little boat was altogether impracticable. We were
therefore obliged to be content with gazing at such objects as presented themselves from the
water. The canoes, upon a near view, seemed very much to resemble those of the smaller
sort at New Zealand. We observed, that among the trees on shore, which were not very
large, there was no underwood ; and could distinguish that many of them were of the palm
kind, and some of them cabbage trees : after many a wishful look we were obliged to return,
with our curiosity rather excited than satisfied, and about five in the evening got on board
the ship. About t'ais time it fell calm, and our situatAon was by no means agreeable. We
were now not mora than a mile and a half from the shore, and within some breakers., which
lay to the southward ; but happily a light breeze came off the land, and carried us out of
danger. With this breeze we stood to the northward, and at day-break we discovered a
bay, which seemed to be well sheltered from all winds, and into which, therefore, I deter-
mined to go with the ship. The pinnace being repaired, I sent her, with the master, to
sound the entrance, while I kept turning up, having the wind right out. At noon, the
mouth of the bay bore N.N.W., distant about a mile, and seeing a smoke on the shore, wc

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COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

206

directed our glasses to the spot, and soon diacovored ten people, who, upon our nearer
approach, left their fire, and retired to a little eminence, wiienco they could conveniently
oi»servo our motions. Soon after two canoes, each having two men on board, came to the
shore just under the eminence, and the men joined the rest on the top of it. The pinnace,
which had been sent a-head to sound, now a])proached the place, upon which all the Indians
retired farther up the hill, except ono, who hid himtielf among some rocks near the landing-
place. As the pinnace proceeded along the shore, most of the people took the same route,
and kept abreast of her at a dii^tanco. When she came
back, the muster told us, that in a covo a little within
the harbour, some of them had come down to the
beach, and invited him to land by many signs and
words, of which bo knew not the meaning ; but that
all of tliem were armed with long pikes, and a wooden
weapon shaped somewhat like a cimcter. The Indians
who had not followed the boat, seeing the ship ap*
proacli, used many threatening gestures and bran-
dished their weapons ; particularly two, who made a
very singular appearance, for their faces seemed to have
been dusted with a white powder, and their bodies
painted with broad streaks of the samo colour, which
passing obliquely over their breasts and backs, looked
not unlike the cross-belts worn by our soldiers ; the
same kind of streaks were also drawn round their legs
and thighs, like broad garters. Each of these men
held in his hand the weapon that had been described to
us as like a ciineter*, which appeared to be about two
feet and a half long ; and they seemed to talk to each
other with great earnestness.

"We continued to stand into the bay, and early in the afternoon anchored under the south
shore, about two miles within the entrance, in six fathom water, the south point bearing
S.E., and the north point East. As we came in we saw, on both points of the bay, a few huts,
and several of the natives, men, women, and children. Under the south head we saw four
small canoes, with each one man on board, who were very busily employed in striking fish
with a long pike or spear. They ventured almost into the surf, and were so intent upon
what they wore doing, that although the ship passed within a quarter of a mile of them, they
scarcely turned their eyes toward her; possibly, being deafened by the surf, and their
attention wholly fixed upon their business or sport, they neither saw nor heard her go past
them.

The place where the ship had anchored was abreast of a small village, consisting of about
six or eight houses ; and while we were preparing to hoist out the boat, we saw an old
woman, followed by three children, come out of the wood ; she was loaded with fire-wood,
and each of '.le children had also its little burden. When she came to the houses, three
more children, younger than the others, came out to meet her : she often looked at the ship,
but expressed neither fear nor surprise. In a short time she kindled a fire, and the four
canoes came in from fishing. The men landed, and having hauled up their boats, began to
dress their dinner, to all appearance, wholly unconcerned about us, though we were within
half a mile of them. We thought it remarkable that all of the people we had yet seen, not

NATIVE OF NEW HOLLAND WITH BOOMERANG.

* This is the singular weapon known as the boome-
rang, the use of wliich lias been rendered fiiniiliar by its
introduction*nniong us as an instructive toy. It is de-
scribed by Captain King as very formidable in its effects.
It is used by the natives with success in killing the kanga-
roo; but is used more as a hunting than a warlike wea-
pon. It is a short, curved piece of heavy wood, and is
propelled ihrough the air in a direction opposite to the
point aimed at, and rising in rapid whirls, it passes over

the head of the thrower, and strikes a point behind him.
The natives are remarkably skilful in its use. The size
varies from eighteen to thirty inches in length, and from
two to three inches broad. The shape is that of an obtuse
angle. One in Captain King's possession was twenty-six
inches long, its greatest breodlh two inches and a half,
thickness half an inch, and tlie angle formed from the
centre 140 degrees. — Ed.

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April, 1V70.

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one had the least appearance oi" clothing, the old woman herself being destitute even of a
fig-leaf.

After dinner the boats were manned, and wo set out from the ship, having Tupia of our
party. We intcadcd to land where wo saw the people, and began to hope that as they had
so little regard to the ship's coming into the bay, they would as little regard our coming on
shore. In this, however, we were disappointed ; for as soon as we approached the rocks,
two of the men came down upon them to dispute our landing, and the rest ran away. Each
of the two champions was armed with a lance about ten feet long, and a short stick, which
he seemed to handle as if it was a machine to assist him in managing or tl' rowing the
lance. They called to us in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dissonant language, of which
neither we nor Tupia understood a single word : they brandished their weapons, and seemed
resolved to defend their coast to the uttermost, though they were but two, and we were forty.
I could not but admire their courage, and being very unwilling that hostilities sliould com-
mence with such inequality of force between us, I ordered the boat to lie upon her oars : we
then parleyed Ivy signs for about a quarter of an hour, and to bespeak their good-v-ill, I threw
them nails, beads, and other trifleti, wh'ch they took up, and seemed to be well ])leased with.
I then made signs that I wanted water, and, by all the means that I could devise, endea-
voured to convince them that we would do il em no harm. They now waved to us, and I
was willing to interpret it as an invitation ; but upon our putting the boat in, they came
again to oppose us. One appeared to be a youth about nineteen or twenty, and the other a
man of middle age ; as I had now no other resource, I fired a mus^ 3t between them. Upon
the report, the youngest dropped a bundle of lances upon the rock, but recollecting himself
in an instant, he snatched them up again with great '<aste. A stone was then thrown at
us, upon which I ordered a musket to be fired witli small-shot, which struck the eldest upon
the legs, and he immediately ran to one of the houses, which was distant about a hundred
yards. I now hoped that our contest was over, and we immediately landed ; but we had
scarcely left the boat wiien he returned, and we then perceived that he had left the rock only
to fetch a shield or target for his defence. As soon as he came up, he threw a lance at us,
and his comrade another; they fell where we stood thickest, but happily hurt nobody. A third
niLdket with small-shot was then fired at them, upon which one of them threw another lance,
and both immediately ran away ; if we ha i pursued, we might probably have taken one of
them ; but Mt. Banks suggesting that the lances jnight be poisoned, I thought it not prudent
to venture into the woods. Wo repaired immediately to the huts, in one of which" we found the
children, who had hidden themselves behind a shield and some bark ; we peeped at them, but left
them in their retreat, without their knowing that they 'lad been discovered, and we threw into
the house, when we went away, some beads, ribbons, pieces of clotli, and other presents, which
we hoped would procure -..s the good-will of the inhabitants wlien they
should return ; but the lances which we found lying about, we took
away with us, to the number of about fifty: tliey were from six to
fifteen feet long, and all of them h; d four prongs in the manner
of a fish-gig, each of which was po. ntcd with fish-bone, and very
sharp : we observed that they were smeared with a viscous substance
of a c;recn colour, which favoured the opinion of t iieir being poisoned,
though we afterwards discovered that it was a mistake : they appeared,
by the sea- weed that we found sticking to ^.hcm, to have been used
in striking fish. Upon examining the canoes that lay upon the beach,
we found them to be the worst we had ever s<'en : they were between
twelve and fourteen feet long, and made of the bark of a tree in one
piece, which was drawn together and tied up at each end, the middle
leing kept open by sticks, which were placed across them from
gunwale to gunwale as thwarts. We then searched for fresh water,
but found none, except in a small hole «hich had been dug in the
sand.

Having reimbarked in our boat, wc depos'led our lances on board the ship, and then wont
over to the norti' point of the bay, where wc had seen several of the inhabitants when wo

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

207

were entering it, but which we now found totally deserted. Here, however, v i found
fresh water, which trickled down from th - top of the rocks, and stood in pools am jng the
hollows at the bottom ; but it was situated so as not to be procured for our use without
difficulty.

In the morning, ,herefore, I sent a party of men to that part of the shore where we first
landed, w'ch orders to dig holes in the sand where the water might gather ; but going ashore
myself with the gentlemen soon afterwards, we found, upon a more diligent search, a small
stream, more than sufficient for our purpose. Upon visiting the hut where we had seen the
children, we were greatly mortified to find that the beads and ribbons which wo had left there
the night before had not been moved from their places, and that not an Indian was to be
seen. Having sent some empty water-casks on shore, and left a party of men to cut wood,
I went myself in the pinnace to sound, and examine the bay ; during my excursion I saw
several of the natives, but they all fled at my opproach. In one of the places where I
lande', I found several f:inall fires, and fresh muscles broiling upon them ; here .also I found
some of the largest oyster-shells I had ever seen.

As so(,.i as the wooders and waterers came on board to dinner, ten or twelve of the natives
came down to the place, and looked with great attention and curiosity at the casks, but did
not touch them : they took awiiy, however, the canoes which lay near the landing-place, and
again disappeared. In the afternoon, when our people were again ashore, sixteen or eighteen
Indians, all armed, came boldly within about a hundred yards of them, and then stopped :
two of them advanced somewhat nearer ; and Mr. Hicks, who commanded the party on
shore, with another, advanced to .Ticet them, holding out presents to them as he approached,
and expressing kindness and amity by every sign he could think of, but all without effect ;
for before he could get up with them they retired, and it would have answered no purpose
to pursue. In the evening I went with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to a sandy cove on the

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NATIVFS OF NEW HOLLAND.

north side of the bay, whore, in three or four hauls with the seine, we took above three
hundred-weight of fish, which was equally divided among the ship's company. The next
morning, before day-break, the Indians came down to the houses that were abreast of the
sliip, and were heard frequently to shout very loud. As soon as it was light, they were
seen walking along the beach ; and soon after they retired to the woods, where, at the dis-
tance of about a mile from the shore, they kindled several fires.

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Mat, 1770.

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Our jjeople went ashore as usual, and with them Ma Banks and Dr. Solander, who, in
search of plants, repaired to the woods. Our men, who were employed in cutting grass,
being the farthest removed from the main body of the people, a company of fourteen or fifteen
Indians advanced towards them, having sticks in their hands, which, according to the report
of the Serjeant of marines, shone like a musket. The grass-cutters, upon seeing them
approach, drew together, and repaired to the main body. The Indians, being encouraged
by this appearance of a flight, pursued them ; they stopped, however, when they were
within about a furlong of them, and after shouting several times, went back into the woods.
In the evening they came again in the same manner, stopped at the same distance, shouted,
and retired. I followed them myself, alone and unarmed, for a considerable way along the
shore, but I could not prevail upon them to stop. This day Mr. Green took the sun's meri-
dian altitude a little within the south entrance of the bay, which gave the latitude 34° S. ;
the var'ation of the needle was 11" 3' E.

Early the next morning, the body of Forby Sutherland, one of our seamen, who died the
evening before, was buried near the watering-place ; and f''om this incident I called the south
point of this bay Sutherland Point. This day we resolved to make an excursion into tho
country. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, myself, and seven others, properly accoutred for the
expedition, set out, and repaired first to the huts near the watering-place, whither some
of the natives continued every day to resort ; and though the little presents which we had
left there before had not yet been taken away, we left others of somewhat more value,
consisting of cloth, looking-glasses, combs, and beads, and then went up into the country.
We found the soil to ^e either swa^np or light sand, and the face of the country finely diver-
sified by wood and 1 twn. The trees are tall, straight, and without underwood, standing at
such a distance from cuch other, that the whole country, at least where the swamps do not
render it incapable of cultivation, might be cultivated without cutting down one of them.
Between the trees the ground is covered with grass, of which there is great abundance, grow-
ing in tufts about as big as can well be grasped in the hand, which stand very close to each
other. We saw many houses of the inhabitants, and places where they had slept upon the
grass without any shelter ; but we saw only one of the people, who, the moment he dis-
covered us, ran away. At all these places we left presents, hoping that at length they might
produce confidence and good-will. We had a transient and imperfect view of a quadruped,
about as big as a rabbit. Mr. Banks's greyhound, which was with us, got sight of it, and
would probably have caught it, but the moment he set off he bmed himself against a stump
which lay concealed in the long grass. We afterwards saw the dung of an animal which fed
upon grass, and which we judged could not be less than a deer ; and the footsteps of another,
which was clawed like a dog, and seemed to be about as big as a wolf. We also tracked a
small animal, whose foot resembled that of a polecat or weasel. The trees over our head
abounded with birds of various kinds, among which were many of exquisite beauty, particu-
larly loriquets and cockatoos, which flew in flocks of several bcores together. We found
some wood which had been felled by the natives with a blunt instrument, and some that had
been barked. The trees were not of many species ; among others there was a large one
which yielded a gum not unlike the mnguis draconis ; and in some of them steps had been
cut at about three feet distant from each other, for the convenience of climbing them.

From this excursion we returned between three and four o'clock, and having dined on
board, we went ashore again at the watering-place, where a party of men were filling
casks. Mr. Gore, the second lieutenant, had been sent out in the morning with a boat to
dredge for oysters at the head of the bay; when he had performed this service, ho w^ent
ashore, and having taken a midshipman witli him, and sent the boat away, set out to join
the waterers by land. In his way he fell in with a body of two-and-twenty Indians, who
followed him, and were often not more than twenty yards distant. W^hen Mr. Gore
perceived them so near, he stopped, and faced about, upon which they stopped also ; and
when he went on again, continued their pursuit. They did not, however, attack him,
though they were all armed with lances, and he and the midshipman got in safety to tho
watering-place. The Indians, who had slackened their pursuit when they came in sight of
the main body of our people, halted at about the distance of a quarter of a mile, where they

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

20',)

stood still. Mr. Moiikhonso and t\vo or tlirec of the watcrers took it into tlicir head to
niarcli up to them ; but seeing the Indians keep their ground till they came pretty near
them, they were seized with a sudden fear very common to the rash and fool-hardy, and
made a hasty retreat. This step, which insured the danger '.at it was taken to avoid,
encouraged the Indians, and four of them miming forward, aischargcd their lances at the
fugitives, with such force, that flying no less than forty yards, they went beyond them.
As the Indians did not pursue, our people, recovering their spirits, stopped to collect the
lances when they came up to the place where they lay; upon which the Indians, in their
turn, began to retire. Just at this time I came up, with ^Ir. Banks, Dr. Solander, and
Tupia; and being desirous to convince the Indians that we were neither afraid of them,
nor intended them any mischief, we advanced towards them, making signs of expostulation
and entreaty; but they could not be persuaded to wait till we could come up. Mr. Gore
told us, that he had seen some of them up the bay, who had invited him by signs to come
on shore, which he, certainly with great prudence, di-clined.

The morning of the next day Avas so rainy, that we were all glad to stay on board. In
the afternoon, however, it cleared up, and we made another excursion along the sea-coast
to the southward : we went ashore, and Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander gathered many plants;
but besides these we saw nothing worthy of notice. At our first entering the woods, wo
met with three of the natives, who instantly ran away: more of them were seen by some of
the people, but they all disappeared, with great precipitation, as soon as they found that
they were discovered. By the boldness of these people at our first landing, and the terror
that seized them at the sight of us afterwards, it appears that they were sufficiently
intimidated by our fire-arms : not that we had any reason to think the peojde much hurt
bv the small-shot which we were obliged to fire' at them, when thev attacked us at our
coming out of the boat ; but they had probably seen the effects of them, from their lurking-
places, upon the birds that wo had shot. Tupia, who was now become a good mnrksmnn,
frequently strayed from us to shoot parrots ; and he had told us, that while he was thus
employed, he had once mot with nine Indians, who, as soon as they perceived he saw them,
ran from him, in great confusion and terror.

The next day, twelve canoes, in each of which was a single Indian, came towards the
watering-place, and were witliin half a mile of it a considerable time : they were employetl
in striking fish, upon which, like otlRis tiiat we had seen before, they were so intent, that
they seemed to regard notliiug else. It happciud, however, that a party of our people were
out a-shooting near tiic pi and one of tlie men, whose curiosity might at length, perhaps,
be roused by the report ol liu- fowliog-pic ces, was observed )iy ^Ir. Banks to haul up his
canoe upon the beach, and yo towards the siiooting-party In something more tluui a
quarter of an hour, he returned, hum ^ il hit canoe, and went off in her to his companions.
This incident makes it probable that the natives acquired a knowledge of the destiuctive
power of our fire-arms, when we knew nothing of tlu- matter ; for this man was not seen by
any of the party whose operations he had reconn (mitred.

While ^Ir. Banks was gathering plants near the watcring-pi.u-e. 1 \v< nt with Dr. Solander
and Mr. Jlonkhouse to tlie head of the oiiy, that I miiilit ( xamine that part of the country,
.and make farther attempts to form some connexi«.n with tlie natives. In our way we met
with eleven or twelve small canoes, with each a man in it, probably the same that were
afterwards abreast of the shore, wlio all made into slioa! water upuu our ajiproach. We
met other Indians on si .re the first time we landed, wlio -tantly took to their canoes, and
paddled away. We went up the country to some di«.i ice, and found the face of it nearly
t!ie same with that which has been described alreaiiy, but the soil was much richer ; for,
instead of sand, I found a dee]> black mould, which 1 tliought very fit for the production of
grain of any kind. In the woods we found a tree which bore fruit that in colour and shapo
resembled a cherry: the juice had an agreeable tartness, thougli but little flavour. Wo
found also interspersed some of the finest meadows in the world : some jdaccs, however,
were rocky, but these were comparatively few: the stone is sandy, and miglit be used with
advantage for building. When we returned to the boat, wo saw some smoke upon another
part of the coast, and went thither in hopes of meeting with the people, but at our approach,

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May, 1770.

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these also ran away. We found six small canoes, and six fires very near the beach, with
some niuscU'S roasting upon them, and a few oysters lying near : by this we judged that
there had been one man in each canoe, who having picked up some shell-fish, had come
ashore to eat it, and made his sejiaratc fire for that purpose. We tasted of their cheer, and
left them in return some strings of beads, and other things which we thought would please
them. At the foot of a tree in this place we found a small well of fresh water, supplied by
a spring ; and the day being now far spent, we returned to the ship. In the evening,
IHr. Banks made a little excursion with his gun, and found such a number of quails resem-
bling those in England, that he might have shot as many as be pleased; but his object was
variety and not number.

The next morning, as the wind would not permit me to sail, I sent out several parties
into the country to try again whether some intercourse could not be established with the
natives. A midshipman, who belonged to one of these i)arties, having straggled a long way
from his companions, met with a very old man and woman, and some little children ; they
were sitting under a tree by the water-side, and neither ])arty saw the other till they were
close together. Tlie Indians showed signs of fear, but did not attempt to run away. The
man hai)pened to have nothing to give them but a parrot that he had shot ; this he offered,
but they I'cfused to accept it, withdrawing themselves from his hand either through fear or
aversion. His stay with them was but short, for he saw several canoes near the beach
fishing, and being alone, he feared they might come a«hore and attack him. He said, that
these people were very dark-coloured, but not black ; that the man and woman appeared
to be very old, heing both grey-headed ; that the hair of the man's head was bushy, and
liis beard long and rough ; that the woman's hair was cropped short ; and both of them
were stark-naked. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, and one of the men, who were with
another party near the watering-place, also strayed from their companions, and as they
were coming out of a thicket, observed six Indians standing together, at the distance of
about fifty yards. One of them pronounced a word very loud, which was supposed to be
a signal, for a lance was immediately thrown at lum out of the wood, which very narrowly
missed him. When the Indians saw that the wca])on had not taken effect, they ran
away with the greatest precipitation ; but on turning about towards the place whence the
lance bad been thrown, he saw a young Indian, whom he judged to be about nineteen or
twenty years old, come down from a tree, and he also ran away with such speed as made it
hopeless to follow him. Mr. Monkhouse was of opinion that he had been watched by these
Indians in his passage through the thicket, and that the youth had been stationed in the
tree to discharge the lance at him, upon a signal, as he should come b} ; but however this
be, there could be no doubt but that lie was the person who threw the lance.

In the afternoon, I went myself with a party over to the north shore ; and while some of
our people were hauling tlio seine, we made an excursion a few miles into the country, pro-
ceeding afterwards in the direet'on of tlie coast. AVc found this place without wood, and
Bomewliat resembling our moors in England ; tli<> surface of tiic ground, however, was covered
with a thin brush of ])lants about as high as the knees. Tlie hills near the coast are low,
but others rise behin<l tlieni. increasing by a gradual ascent to a considerable distance, with
marshes and morasses between. When we returned to the boat, we found that our people
had caught witli the seine a ^rcat number of small fish, which are well known in the West
Indies, and which our sailors call leather-jackets, because their skin is remarkably thick. I
had sent the second-lieutenant out in the yawl a-striking, and when we got back to the ship,
we found that he also had been very successful. Ik- had observed that the large sting-rays,
of which there is great plenty in the bay, followed the flowing tide into very shallow water ;
he therefore took the opportunity of flood, aiu' struck several in not more than two or three
feet water : one of them weighed no less than two hundred and forty pounds after his entrails
were taken out. The next morning, as the wind still continued northerly, I sent out the

for when his entrpils were taken out, he

I',

l,t

yawl again, and the people struck one still
weighed three hundred and thirty-six poiuuls.

The great quantity of i)lants which !Mi IJanks and Dr. Solander collected in this place,
induced me to "ive it the name of HoTAiNv Day. It ij! situated in the latitude of 34° S.,

May, 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

211

longitude 208° 37' W. It is capacious, safe, and convenient, and may be known by the land
on the sea-coast, which is nearly level, and of a moderate height ; in general higher than it
is farther inland, with steep rocky clifts next the sea, which have the appearance of a long
island lying close under the shore. The hai-bour lies about the middle of this land, and in
approaching it from tiie southward, is discovered before the ship comes abreast of it ; but
from the northward it is not discovered so soon. The entrance is a little more than a
quarter of a mile broad, and lies in W.N/V, To sail into it, the southern shore should be
kept on board till the ship is within a small bare island which lies close nnder the nortli
shore ; within this island the deepest water on that side is seven fathom, shallo^.ing to five
a good way np. At a considerable distance from the south shore there is a shoal reaching
from the inner south point quite to the head of the harbour ; but over towards the north and
north-west shore there is a channel of twelve or fourteen feet at low-water for three or four
leagues up, to a place where there is three or four fathom ; but here I found very little fresh

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BOTANY BAY.

water. We anchored near the south shore, about a mile within the entrance, for the conve-
nience of sailing with a southerly wind, and because I thought it tlie best situation for water-
ing ; but I afterwards found a very fine stream on the north shore, in the first sandy covt^
within the island, before which a ship might He almost land-locked, and procure wood as well
as water in great abundance. W^ood, indeed, is everywhere plenty, but I saw only two kinds
Vihieh may be consiilered as timber. These trees are as large or hirgcr than the English oak,
and one of them has not a very different appearance ; this is the same that yields the reddish
gum like san//uis draconis, and the wood is heavy, hard, and dark- coloured, like lignum ritev :
the other grows tall and straight, soniething like the pine ; and the wood of this, which has
some resemblance to the live-oak of America, is also hard and heavy. There are a few shrubs,
and several kinds of the palm ; mangroves also grow in great plenty near the head of the bay.
The country in general is level, low, and woody, as far as we could see. The woods, as I
have before observed, abound with birds of exquisite beauty, particularly of the parrot kind ;
we found also crows here, exactly the same with those in England. About the head of the
harbour, where there are large flats of sand and mud, there is great plenty of water-fowl,
most of which were .iltogcther unknown to us : one of the most remarkal!) was black and
white, much larger than a swan, and in shape somewhat resembling a pelican. On these
banks of sand and mud there are great quantities of oysters, muscles, cockles, and other
shell-fish, which seem to be the principal subsistence of tlio inhabitants, who go into shoal-

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212

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1770.

water with tlieir Httlo canoes, and pick tlicm out with their hands. Wo did not observe
that they eat any of them raw, nor do they always go on shore to dress them, for tliey havo
frequently fires in their canoes for that purpose. They do not, however, subsist wholly upon
this food, for they catch a variety of other fish, sonic of which they strike with gigs, and
some they take with hook and line. All the inhabitants that we saw were stark-naked ;
they did not appear to be numerous, nor to live in societies, but, like other animals, were
scattered about along the coast, and in the woods. Of their manner of life, however, wo
could know but little, as wo were never able to form the least connexion with them. After
the first contest at our landing, tliey would never como near enough to parley ; nor did they
touch a single article of all that we had left at their huts, and the places they frequented, on
purpose for them to take away.

During my stay in this harbour I caused the English colours to be displayed on shore
every day, and the ship's name and the date of the year to be inscribed upon one of the
trees near the watering-place. It is high-water here, at the full and change of the moon,
about eight o'clock, and the tide rises and falls perpendicularly between four and five feet.

.■' I'li

CHAPTER IT. — TUR RANGE FROM BOTANY BAV TO TRINITY BAY; WITH A FARTHER ACCOUNT
OF THE COUNTRY, ITS INHABITANTS, AND PRODUCTIONS.

At day-break, on Sunday, the 0th of May, 1770, we set sail from Botany Bay, witli a
lifjht breeze at N.W., which soon after coming to the southward, we steered along the
shore N.N.E. ; and at noon, our latitude, by observation, was 33° 50' S. At this time
we were between two and three miles distant from the land, and abreast of a bay or harbour,
in which there appeared to be good anchorage, and which I called Port Jackson *. Tliis
harbour lies three leagues to the northward of Botany Bay : the variation, by several
azimuths, appeared to be 8° E. At sunset, the northernmost land in sight bore N. 20 E.,
and some broken land, that seemed to form a bay, bore N. 40 W., distant four leagues.
This bay, which lies in latitude 33° 42', I called Broken Bay. We steered along the
shore N.N.E. all night, at the distance of about three leagues from the land, having from
thirty-two to thirtj'-six fathom water, with a hard sandy bottom.

Soon after sunrise on the 7th, I took several azimuths, with four needles belonging to
the azimuth compass, the mean result of which gave the variation 7° •'JO' E. At noon our
latitude, by observation, was 33° 22' S. : we were about three leagues from the shore, the
northernmost land in sight bore N. ]9 E., and some lands which projected in three bluff
points, and which, for that reason, I called Cape Three Points, bore S.W., distant five
leagues. Our longitude from Botany Bay was 19' E. In the afternoon, we saw smoke
in several places upon the shore, and in the evening, found the variation to bo 8° 25' E.
At this time we were between two and three miles from the shore, in tw^enty-eight fathom;
and at noon, the next day, we had not advanced one step to the northward. We stood off
shore, with the winds northerly, till twelve at night, and at the distance of about five
leagues, had seventy fathom ; at tiic distance of six leagues we had eighty fathom, which is
the extent of the soundings; for at the distance of ten leagues, we had no ground with 150
fathom.

The wind continuing northerly till the morning of the 10th, we continued to stand in and
off the shore, with very little change of situation in other respects ; but a gale then spring-
ing up at S.W., we made the best of our way along the shore to the nortiiward. At sun-
rise, our latitude was 33° 2' S., and the variation 8° E. At nine in the forenoon, we passed
a remarkable hill, which stood a little way inland, and somewhat resembled the crown of a
liat ; and at noon our latitude, by observation, was 32° 53' S., and our longitude 208° W.
We were about two leagues distant from the land, which extended from N. 41 E. to S. 41

• It is .ilniost unnecessary to point ont Port Jackson ns 1788, after a voyage of eu/ht months and one week; hut

the site of the first English sculement in New Holland, that spot not affording all tlio nrcommodalions needed, Port

now the well-known town of Sydney. The first convoy of Jackson was fixed on as the position of the future capital

convicts arrived .it Botany Day on the '20th of January, of Australia, — Eo,

May, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGK ROUND TIIK WORLD.

:v^

W., and a small round rock, or island, which lay close undi-r tlio land, bore S. 82 W., dis-
tant between three and four leagues. At four in the afternoon, we passed, at tlie distance
of about a mile, a low rocky point, which I called Point Stei'IIens ; on the north side of
which is an inlet, which I called Port Stepue.ns : this inlet appeared to nic, from the mast-
head, to be sheltered from all winds. It lies in latitude M2° 40', longitude 207° '^'l'* a"d at
the entrance are three small inlands, two of which arc high ; and on the main near tiie shore
are some high round hills, which at a distance appear like islands. In i)assing this bay, at
the distance of two or three miles from the shore, our soundings were from ♦''"-ty-three to
twenty-seven fathom, from which I conjectured that there must be a sufficicn :'' pth of water
within it. At a little distance within land, we saw smoke in several places; and at half
an hour past five, the northernmost land in sight bore N. 30 E., and Point Stephens S.W.,
distant four leagues. Our soundings in the night were from forty-eight to sixty-two fathom,
at the distance of between three and four leagues from the shore, which made in two hillocks.
This point I called Cape IIawke : it lies in the latitude of 32° 14' S., longitude 20/° 30' W. ;
and at four o'clock in the morning bore W., distant about eight miles; at the same time the
northernmost land in sight bore N. 6 E. and appeared like an island. At noon, this land
bore N. 8 E., the northernmost land in sight N. 13 E., and Cape IIawke S. 37 W. Our
latitude, by observation, was 32° 2' S., which was twelve miles to the southward of that
given by the log; so that probably we had a current setting that way: by the morning
amplitude and azimuth, the variation was 9° 10' E. During our run along the shore, in the
afternoon, we saw smoke in several places, at a little distance from the beach, and one upon
the top of a hill, which was the first we had seen upon elevated ground since our arrival
upon the coast. At sunset, we had twenty-three fathom, at the distance of a league and a
half from the shore: the northernmost land then bore N. 13 E., and three hills, remarkably
large and high, lying contiguous to each other, and not far from tlie beach, N.N.W. As
these hills bore seme resemblance to each other, we called them The Three BnoTnERS.
They lie in latitude 31° 40', and may be seen fourteen or sixteen leagues. We steered N.E.
by N. all night, having from twtnty-seven to sixty-seven fathom, at the distance of between
two and six leagues from the shore.

At daybreak, we steered north, for the northernmost land in sight. At noon, we were
four leagues from the shore, and, by observation, in latitude 31° IB' S., which was fifteen
miles to the southward of that given by the log ; our longitude 200° 58' W. In the after-
noon, we stood in fci* the land, where we saw smoke in several places, till six in the evening,
when, being within three or four miles of it, and in twenty-four fathom of water, we stood
off with a fresh breeze at N. and N.N.W. till midnight, when we had 118 fathom, at the
distance of eight leagues from the land, and then tacked. At three in the morning, the
wind veered to the westward, when we tacked and stood to the northward. At noon, our
latitude, by observation, was 30° 4.3' S., and our longitude 20(5° 45' W. At this time we
were between three and four leagues from the shore, the northernmost part of which bore
from us N. 13 W. and a point, or headland, on which we saw fires that produced a great
quantity of smoke, bore W., distant four leagues. To this point I gave the name of Smoky
Cape*; it is of a considerable height, and over the pitch of the point is a roniid hillock ;
within it are two others, much higher and larger, and within them the land is very low.
Our latitude was 30° 31' S., longitude 206° 54' W. : this day the observed latitude was only
five miles south of the log. We saw smoke in several parts along the coast, besides that
seen upon Smoky Cape.

In the afternoon, the wind being at N.E., we stood off and on, and at three or four miles
distance from the shore had thirty fathom water; the wind afterwards coming cross oft' land,
we stood to the northward, having from thirty to twenty-one fathom, at the distance of four
or five miles from the shore. At five in the morning, tlie wind veered to the north, and
blew fresh, attended with squalls : at eight it began to thunder and rain, and in about an
hour it fell calm, which gave us an opportunity to sound, and we had eiglity-six fathom
at between four and five leagues from the shore. Soon after this we had a gale from the
southward, with which we steered N. by W. for the northernmost land in sight. At noon

• Smoky Cupo lies a little to tlic north of tlio present penal settlement of Port Macqimrrle. — Ko.

m \

1:1

■ IS -;

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1770.

i'^

wc were about four leagues from tlio shore, and by observation, in latitude 30° 22', wliich
was nine miles to tlie southward of our reckoning, longitude 20G° 39' W. Some lands near
the shore, of a considerable height, bore W.

As wo advanced to the northward from Botany Bay, the land gradually increased in height,
so that in this latitude it may bu called a hilly country. Between this latitude and the
Bay, it exhibits a pleasing variety of ridges, hills, valleys, and plains, all clothed with wood,
of the same appearance with that which has been particularly described. The land near the
shore is in general low and sandy, except tho points, which are rocky, and over many of
them arc high hills, which, at their first rising out of tho water, have tho appearance of
islands. In the afternoon, we had some small rocky islands between us .".nd the land, tho
southernmost of which lies in latitude 39° 10', and the northernmost in yO" r»8', and somewhat
more than two leagues from the land : about two miles without the northernmost island we
had thirty-three fathom water. Having the advantage of a moon, we steered along tho
shore all night, in the direction of N. and N. by E., keeping at the distance of about three
leagues from the land, and having from twenty to twenty-five fathom water. As soon as
it was light, having a fresh gale, we made all the sail we could ; and at nine o'clock in the morn-
ing, being about a league from the shore, we discovered smoke in many places, and having
recourse to our glasses, we saw about twenty of the natives, who had each a large bundle
upon his back, wliich we conjectured to be palm-leaves for covering their houses. Wc con-
tinued to observe them above an hour, during which they walked upon the beach, and up a
path that led over a hill of a gontle ascent, behind which we lost sight of them : not one of
them was observed to stop and look towards us, but they trudged along, to all appearance
without the least emotion, either of curiosity or surprise, though it is impossible they should
not have seen the ship by a casual glance as they walked along the shore ; and though she
must, with respect to every other object they had yet seen, have been little less stupendous
and unaccountable than a floating mountain with all its woods would have been to us. At
uoon, oiir latitude, by observation, was 28° 39' S., and longitude 206° 27' W. A high point
of land, which I named Cape Byuon, bore N.AV. by W., at the distance of three miles.
It lies in latitude 28° 37' 30" S., longitude 206° 30' "W., and may be known by a remark-
able sharp-peaked mountain, which lies inland, and bears from it N.W. by W. From this
point the land trends N. 13 W. : inland it is high and hilly, but low near the shore : to the
southward of the point it is also low and level. We continued to steer along the shore with
a fresh gale, till sunset, when we suddc^'* discovered breakers ahead, directly in the ship's
course, and also on our larboard bow. At, this time wo were about five miles from the land,
and had twenty fathom water : we hauled up east till eight, when we had run eight miles,
and increased our depth of water to forty-four fathom ; we then brought to, with the ship's
head to the eastward, and lay tipon this tack till ten, when, having increased our sounding
to seventy-eight fathom, wo wore and lay with the ship's head to the land till five in the
morning, when we made sail, and, at daylight, were greatly surprised to find ourselves
farther to tho southward than we had been the evening before, though the wind had been
southerly, and blown fresh all night. Wc now saw the breakers again within us, and passed
them at the distance of one league. They lie in latitude 28° 8' S., stretching off east two
leagues from a point of land, under which is a small island. Their situation may always be
known by the peaked moimtain which has been just mentioned, and which bears from them
S.W. by W. : for this reason I have named it Mount Warning, It lies seven or eight
leagues inland, in latitude 28° 22' S. The land about ii is high and hilly, but it is of itself
sufiiciently conspicuous to be at once distinguished from every other object. The point off
which these shoals lie I have named Point Danger. To the northward of this point the
land is low, and trends N.W. by N. ; but it soon turns again more to the northward.

At noon we were about tivo leagues from the land, and, by observation, in latitude
27" 46' S., which was sevcntc en miles to the southward of the log : our longitude was
206° 26' W. Mount Warning bore S. 26 W., distant fourteen leagues, and the northern-
most land in sight bore N. We pursued our course along the shor , at the distance of
about two leagues, in the direction of N. ^ E. till between four and five in the afternoon,
when we discovered breakers on our larboard bow. Our depth of water was thirty-seven

May, 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOVAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

215

fathom ; and at sunset tlio nortlicniPiost land bore N. by W., tlio breakers N.W. by W.,
distant four miles, and the northornmost land set at noon, wliicli formed a point, and to
which I gave the name of Point 1,oi«k-out, W., distant fivo or six miles, in the latitude of
27" 0'. On the north side of tliis point, the siiore forms a wide open bay, which I called
]Moiieton's Day, in the bottom of whicli the land is so low, that I could but jnst sec it
from the topmast head. The breakers lie between three or four miles from Point Look-
out ; and at this time wo had a (jreut sea from the southward, which broke upon them very
high. "NVc stood on N.N.E. till eiglit o'clock, when having passed the breakers, and
deepened our water to fifty-two fathom, we brought to till midnight, when we made sail
again to the N.N.E. At four in the morning wo had 13;') fathom ; and when the day
broke, I perceived that during the night I ha<l got much farther northward, and from the
shore, than I expected from tlu; course we steered, for we were distant at least seven
leagues; I therefore hauled in N.W. by W., with a fresh gale at S.S.W. The land that
was farthest to the north the night before now bore S.8.W., distant six leagues ; and I gave
it the name of Cape Morkton, it being the north point of Moreton's Bay ; its latitude is
20" 50', and its longitude is 200" 2ii. From Cape Moreton tlio land trends away west,
farther than can be seen, for there is a small space, where at this time no laud is visible ;
and some on board having also observed that the sea looked paler than usual, were of opinion
that the bottom of Moreton's Bay opened into a river *. We had hero thirty-four fathom
water, and a fine sandy bottom : this alone would have produced the change that had been
observed in the colour of the water ; and it was by no means necessary to suppose a river
to account for the land at the bottom of the bay not being visible ; for supposing the land
there to be as low as we knew it to bo in a hundred other parts of the coast, it would have
been impossible to see it from the station of the ship; however, if any future navigator
should be disposed to determine the question, whetlicr there is or is not a river in this place,
which the wind would not permit us to do, the situation may always bo found by three
hills which lie to the northward of it, in the latitude of 20° 53'. These hills lie but a little
way inland, and not far from each other : they are remarkable for the singular form of their
elevation, which very much resembles a glass-house, and for which reason I called them
the Glass-IIouses. The northernmost of the three is the highest and largest : there are
also several other peaked hills inland to the northward of these, but they are not nearly so
rcMarkable. At noon our latitude was, by observation, 20° 20' S., which was ten miles to
flu northward of the log, a circumstance which had never before happened upon this coast;
our longitude was 200" 40'. At this time we were between two and three leagues from the
land, and had twenty-four fathom water. A low bluff point, which was the south head of
a sandy bay, bore N. 02 W., distant three leagues, and the northernmost point of land in
sight bore N, ^ E. This day we saw smoke in several places, and some at a considerable
distance inland.

In steering along the shore at the distance of two leagues, our soundings were from
twenty-four to thirty-two fathom, with a sandy bottom. At six in the evening the
northernmost point of the land bore N. ^- W., distant four leagues ; at ten it bore N.W. by
W. ^ W. ; and as we had seen no land to the northward of it, we brought to, not well
knowing which w^ay to steer. At two in the morning, however, we made sail with the
wind at S.W., and at daylight we saw the land extending as far as N. ^ E. : the point we
had set the night before bore S.AV. by W., distant between three and four leagues. It lies in
latitude 25° 58 , longitude 200° 48' W. : the land within it is of a moderate and equal
height, but the point itself is so unequal, that it looks like two small islands lying under the
land, for which reason I gave it the name of Double Island Point : it may also be known
by the white cliffs on the north side of it. Here the land trends to the N.W., and forms a
large open ba^ , the bottom of which is so low a flat, that from the deck it could scarcely
be seen. In crossing this bay, our depth of water was from thirty to twenty-two fathom,
with a white sandy bottoir. At noon wo were about three leagues from the shore, in
latitude 25° 34' S., longitude 200° 45' W. : Double Island Point bore S. J W., and tho
northernmost land in sight N. ^ E. This part of the coast, which is of a moderate height,

* Brisbane River empties itself into .Moreton's Buy. — Ed.

210

C(X)KS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WtJRLD.

May, 1770.

'•'1

?i<

V ^

is more barren tlian any wo had seen, and tlie soil more sandy. With our glasses wc could
discover that the sands, which lay in groat patches of many acres, were moveable, and that
some of them had not been long in tho ]iluco they possessed ; for wo saw in several parts
trees half buried, the tops of which were still green ; and in otiiers, tho naked trunks of
such as the sand had surrounded long enough to destroy. In other places tho woods
appeared to be low and shrubby, and we saw no signs of inhabitants. Two water-snakca
swam by tho ship ; they were beautifully spotted, and in every respect like land snakes,
except that their tails were broad and flat, probably to servo them instead of fins in
swimming. In the morning of this day the variation was }{" 20' E., and in tho evening
S° SO*. During the night wc continued our course to tho northward, with a light breeze
from the land, being distant from it between two and three leagues, and having from twenty-
three to twenty-seven fathom, with a fine sandy bottom.

At noon on the 19th we were about four miles from the land, with only thirteen fathom.
Our latitude was 25° 4', and the northernmost Land in sight bore N. 21 AV., distant eight
miles. At one o'clock, being still four miles distant from the shore, but having seventeen
fathom water, we passed a black bluff head, or point of land, upon which a great number of
the natives were assembled, and which therefore I called Indian Head : it lies in latitude
25° 3'. About four miles N. by W. of this head is another very like it, from whence the
land trends away somewhat more to tho westward : next to the sea it is low and sandy ;
and behind it nothing was to be seen, even from the mnst-head. Near Indian Head wc saw
more of the natives, and upon the neighbouring shore fires by night, and smoke by day.
We kept to the northward all night, at the distance of from four miles to four leagues from
the shore, and with a depth of water from seventeen to thirty-four fathom. At daybreak
the northernmost land bore from us W.S.W., and seemed to end in a point, from which we
discovered a reef running out to the northward as far as we could see. We had hauled our
wind to the westward before it was light, and continued the course till we saw the breakers
upon our lee-bow. We now edged away N. W. and N.N.W. along the east side of the shoal,
from two to one mile distant, having regidar soundings from thirteen to seven fathom, with
a fine sandy bottom. At noon our latitude, by observation, was 20° 20', which was thirteen
miles to the northward of the log : we judged the extreme point of the shoal to bear from
lis about N.W., and the point from which it seemed to run out bore S. f W., distant
twenty miles. This point I named Sandy Capf., from two very large patches of white
sand which lay upon it. It is sufficiently high to bo seen at tiie distance of twelve leagues,
in clear weather, and lies in latitude 24° 45', longitude 200' 51' : the land trends from it
S.W. as far as can be seen. We kept along the east side of the shoal till two in the after-
noon, when, judging that there was a sufficient depth of water upon it to allow passage for
the ship, I sent the boat ahead to sound, and upon her making the signal for more than five
fathom, we hauled our wind, and stood over the tail of it in six fathom. At this time wo
were in latitud. 24° 22', and Sandy Cape bore S. \ E., distant eight leagues ; but the
direction of the shoal is nearest N.N.W. and S.S.E. It is remarkable that when on board
the ship we had six fathom, the boat, which was scarcely a quarter of a mile to the soutli-
ward, had little more than five, and that immediately after six fathom we had thirteen, and
then twenty, as fast as the man could east the lead : from these circumstances I conjectured
that the west side of the shoal was steep. This shoal I called the Break Sea Spit, because
we had now smootii water, and to the southward of it we had always a high sea from the
S.E. At six in the evening the land of Sandy Cape extended from S. 17 E. to S.
27 E., at the distance of eight leagues ; our depth of water was twenty-three fathom : with
the same soundings wc stood to the westward all night. At seven in the morning wc saw
from the mast-head the land of Sandy Cape bearing S.E. f E., distant about thirteen leagues:
at nine we discovered land to the westward, and soon after saw .«!moko in several places.
Our depth of water was now decreased to seventeen fathom, and by noon we had no more
than thirteen, though we w^ere seven leagues from the land, which extended from S. by
W. to W.N.W. Our latitude at tliis time was 24^ 28' S. For a few days past we had
seen several of the sea-birds called boobies, not having met with any of them before ; last
night a small flock of them passed the ship, and went away to the N.W. ; and in the

AY, 1770.

evening

May, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAOE ROUND THE U'ORLD.

217

morning, from about half an liour before sunrise to lialf an hour after, flights of them were
continually coming from the N.N.W., and flying to the S.S.E. ; nor was one of them seen
to fly in any other direction ; wo therefore conjectured that there was a lagoon, river, or
inlet of shallow water, in the bottom of the deep bay, to the southward of us, whither these
birds resorted to feed in the day, and that not far to tlio northward there were some iulands,
to which they repaired in the night. To this bay I gave the name of IIehvev's Bay, in
honour of Captain Ilervey. In the afternoon we stood in for the land, steering S.W., witli
a gentle breeze at S.E. till four o'clock, when, being in latitude 24" HO', about two leagues
from the shore, and having nine fathom water, we bore away along the coast N.W. by W.,
and at the same time could see land extending to the S.S.E, about eight leagues. Near the
sea the land is very low, but within there are some lofty hills, all thickly clothed with wood.
While we were running along the shore, we shallowed our water from nine to seven fathom,
and at one time wo had but six, which determined us to anchor for the night.

At six in the morning wo weighed, with a gentle breeze from the southward, and steered
N.W. ^ W., edging in for the land, till wo got within two miles of it, with water from
seven to eleven fathom ; we then steered N.N.W. as the land lay, and at noon our latitude
was 24° 19'. We continued in tlio same course, at the same distance, w^itli from twelve
fathom to seven, till five in the evening, when we were abreast of the south point of a largo
open bay, in which I intended to anchor. During this course, we discovered with our glasses
that the land was covered with palm-nut trees, which we had not seen from the time of our
leaving the islands within the tropic : wc also saw two men walking along the shore, who
did not condescend to tako the least notice of us. In the evening, having hauled close upon
a wind, and made two or three trips, wc anchored about eight o'clock in five fathom, with
a fine sandy bottom. The south point of the bay bore E. | S., distant two miles, the north
point N.W. I N., and about the same distance from the shore.

Early the next morning I went ashore, with a party of men, in order to examine the
country, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen, and Tupia : the
wind blew fresh, and we found it so cold, that being at some distance from the shore, we
took our cloaks as a necessary equipment for the voyage. We landed a little within the
south point of the bay, where we found
a channel leading into a large lagoon :
this channel I proceeded to examine,
and found three fathom water till I
got about a mile up it, where I met
with a shoal, upon which there was
little more than one fathom, but hav-
ing passed over it, I had three fathom
again. The entrance of this channel
lii'S close to the south point of the bay,
being formed by the sliorc on the east,
and on the west by a large spit of sand :
it is about a quarter of a mile broad,
and lies in S.by'W. In this place there
is room for a few ships to lie in great
security, and a small stream of fresh
water : I would have rowed into the
lagoon,butwas prevented byshallows.
We found several bogs, and swamps of
salt water, upon which, and by the
sides of the lagoon, grows the true
mangrove, such as is found in the
West Indies, and the first of the
kind that we had met with. In the
branches of these mangroves there
were many nests of a remarkable kind

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COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1770.

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of ant, tliat w-is a*i jjrofn as pniss : when tlic branclips wore disturbed tlicy camo out in great
ninn1)(>n>, and punislit'd tlic ortbndor by a much sbiiipor bite tlian over we had felt from tlio same
kind of animal bifore. I'pou these luan^roves alno we saw small f;reen caterpillars in great
iiiiinbers: their bodies were tliiek-set with hairs, ami they were ranged upon the leaves 8i<lo by
side like a fih- of soldiers, to the number of twenty or thirty together : wlieii we touched them,
we fouuil that the hair of tlnir bodies hail tlie quality of a netile, and (.rave n-< a much nioro
.icute, though less durable jiaiu. The country hero is manifestly worse than about Botany
Bay : the soil is dry auil sandy, but the siiles of the liills are covered with trees, which grow
separately, without undiTWood. Wo found here the tree that yields a gum like the saiijiiit
ih'iieon'is ; but it is somewhat different from the trees of the sanio kii.d which wo had seen
before, f<ir the leaves arc longer, and hang down like those of the weeping-willow. Wo found
also much less gum upon them, which is contrary to the established o])inion, that the hotter
the climate the more qums exude. Upon a plant also, which yielded a yellow gum, there
■as less than upon the same kind of itlant in Botany Bay. Among the shoals and sand-
banks we saw many large birds, some in particular of the same kind that we had seen in
Botany Bay, much bigijer than swans, wliich we judged to bo pelicans ; but they were so
shy that we could not get within gunshot of them. Upon the shore wo saw a species of
the bustard, one of which wo shot : it was as largo as a turkey, and weighed seventeen
]iounds and a half.* We .ill agreed that this was the best bird wo had eat 'i since we left
England ; and in honour of it wo called this inlet Bistard Bay. It lies in latitude 24° 4',
longitude 2(UP \iY. The sea seemed to abound with fish ; but, unhappily, we tore our seino
all to pieces at the first haul. Upon the nnul-banks, under the mangroves, wo found innu-
meniblo oysters of various kinds ; among others, the hammer-oyster, and a large proportion
of small pearl-oysters : if in deej)er water there is equal plenty of such oysters .it their full
growth, a pearl fishery might certainly bo established here to very great advantage.

The people who were left on board the ship said, that while wo were in tho woods about
twenty of the natives came down to the beach, abre.ist of her, and having looked at her some
time, went away ; but we that were ashore, though wo saw smoke in many places, saw no
peo]do ; tho smoke was at [daces too distant for us to get to them by land, txeopt one, to
which we re])aired : we found ten small fires still burning within a few pact . !"v ich other;
but the people were gone. Wo saw near them several vessels of bark, which wo supposed
to have contained water, and some shells and fish-bones, tho remains of a recent meal. We
saw also, lying upon tlie ground, several pieces of soft bark, abotit the length and breadth of
a man, which we imagined miglit bo their beds ; and, on the 'vindward side of the fires, a
small shaile about a foot and a half high, of the same substance. Tho whole was in a thicket
of close trees, ^^hich afforded good shelter from the wind. The place seemed to be much
trodden, and as we saw no house, nor any remains of a house, we were inclined to believe
that, as these jieople had no clothes, they had no dwelling, but spent their nights, among tho
other commoners of nature, in tho open air ; and Tupia himself, with an air of superiority
and compassion, shook his head, and said, that they were Tuala Euos, " poor wretches." I
measured tho perjiendicular height of the last tide, and found it to be eight feet above low
water-mark ; and from the time of low-water this day, I fotind that it must be high-water
at the full and change of the moon at eight o'clock.

At four o'clock in the morning we weighed, and with a gentle breeze at south, made sail
out of the bay. In standing out, our soundings were from five to fifteen fathom ; and at
daylight, when we were in the greatest depth, and abreast of tho north head of the bay, we
discovered breakers stretching out from it N.N.E. between two .ind three miles, with a rock
at the outermost point of them, just above water. While we were passing these rocks, at
the distance of about half a mile, we had from fifteen to twenty fathom, and as soon as wo
li.id passed them, we hauled along shore W.N.W. for the farthest land wo had in sight. At
noon our latitude, by observation, was 23° 52' S. ; the north part of Bustard Bay bore
S. (52 E., distant ten miles, and the northernmost land in sight N. (JO W. ; the longitude was
208° 37', and our distance from the nearest shore six miles, with fourteen fathom water.
Till five in the afternoon it was calm, but afterwards we steered before the wind N.W. as
* Tliis bird, a species of the lesser Olis, is abiindunt in the country,— Eu.

May, 1770.

COOK 8 FIRST VOYAGE ROCNI) THE WOULD.

219

tlio land lay till ten at night, and tlicn brotiglit to, liaving liail nil along fourteen ami f'''\!n
fatliuin. At five in tlic morning \vc niailo sail ; and at ilayiijjlit tlio nortlii-mniosi noint of
tlio main lioro N. 7'^ W- Soon after \vn saw monr land, making lik(^ isLiiidn, an<l heurinii
N.W. by N. At nine wo were alufast of the jioint. at tlu' (liMtunie of one mile, with foiir-
to "n fathom water. This point I found to lie dircetly under the tro])io of Capricorn ;
and for that reason I called it Caim; C'ai'iucoun : its l()u;;itude is 'JOJl' ')\\' W. : it is of a
coniiderahle height, looks wiiite and harren, and may he known hy some islands which lio
to tie N.W. ol it, and some small rocks at the distance of ahout a leag:ie S.H. On the west
side of the Ci.oo there a])])eared to ho a lagoon, and on the two i pits which formed the
entrance, wo sav an ineredihle numher of the large hirds that resemhle a pelican. The nor-
thernmost hand no'v ju sight horo from Ca|>o C'a]iricorn X. 21 W., and ai)peared to ho nil
island; but the m.unlaml treaded W. by N. i N., which course we steered, having from
fifteen to six fathom, and from six to nine, with a 1:21.1 ^andy bottom. At noon our latitude,
by observation, was i2.T 24' S. ; Cape (.'aprieorn boro S. (!0 K., distant two leagues ; and a
small island N. by E. two miles : in this situation wo had nine fathom, being about four
miles from the main, which, next the sea, is low and sandy, excejjt the points wliicli aro
high and rocky. The country inland is hilly, but by no means of a i)leasing aspect. Wo
continued to stand to tho N.W. till four o'clock in the afternoon, when it fell calm ; and we
soon after anchored in twelve fathom, having tho mainland and islands in a manner all round
us, and Capo Capricorn bearing S. 54 E., distant fonr leagues. In the night we found the
tide rise and fall near seven feet ; and the flood to set to tlio westward, and the ebb to tho
eastward, which is just contrary to what wo found when wo were at anchor to tho eastward
of Diistard Bay.

At six in tho morning wo weighed, with a gentle brcczo at south, and stood away to the
N.W., between tho outermost range of islands and tho main, leaving several small islands
between tho main and tho ship, which wo passed at a very little distance ; our soundings
being irregular, from twelve to four fathom, I sent a boat ahead to sound. At noon wo
were about three miles from tho main, and about tho same distance from the islands without
us ; our latitude, by observation, was 23" 7' S. Tho mainland hero is high and moun-
tainous ; tho islands which lio off it aro also most of them high, and of a small circuit, hav-
ing an appearance rather of barrenness than fertility. At this time wo saw smoke in many
places at a considerable distance inland, and therefore conjectured that there might be a
lagoon, river, or inlet, running up the country, tho rather as wo had i)assed two places which
had the appearance of being such ; but our de]>tli of water was too little to encourage me to
venture where I should probably have less. We had not stood to the northward above an
hour, before wo suddenly fell into three fathom ; upon which I anchored, and sent away tho
master to sound the channel which lay to leeward of us, between the northernmost island and
tho main : it appealed to bo pretty broad, but I suspected that it was shallow, and so indeed
it was found ; for the master reported at his return that in many places he had only two
fathom and a half, and where wo lay at anchor wo had only sixteen feet, which was not two
feet more than the ship drew. While tho master was sounding the channel, Mr. Banks
tried to fish from tho cabin windows with lioek and lino. The water was too shallow for
fish ; but tho ground was almost crvered with crabs, which readily to(dv tho bait, and some-
times held it so fast in their claws, that they did not quit their hold till they were consider-
ably above water. These crabs were of two sorts, and both of them such as wo had not seen
before : one of them was adorned with the finest blue that can be imagined, in every respect
equal to the ultramarine, with which all bis claws and every joint was deeply tinged : tho
under part of him was white, and so exquisitely polished, that in colour and brightness it
exactly resembled tho white of old china. Tho other was also marked with tho ultramarine
upon his joints and his toes, but somewhat more sparingly ; and his back was marked with
three brown spots, which had a singular appearance. Tho people wno had been out with the
boat to sound, reported, that, upon an island where we had observed two fires, they had seen
several of the inhabitants, who called to them, and seemed very desirous that they should
land. In tho evening the wind veered to E.N.E., which gave us an opportunity to stretch
three or four miles back by the way wo came ; after which, the wind shifted to the south,
and obliged us again to anchor in six fathom.

lit

220

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

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iMay, 1770.

At five in tl.i? morning I sent an ..y the master to search for a passage between the
islands, while we got the sliip nnder sail ; and as soon as it was light we followed the boat,
which made a signal that a passage had been fonnd. As soon as we had got again into
deep water, we ni.ade sail to the northward, as the land lay, with soundings from nine
fathom to fifteen, and some small islands still without us. At noon wo were about two
leagues distant from the main ; and, by observation, in latitude 22° 53' S. The northern-
most point of land in sight now bore N.N.W., distant ten miles. To this point I gave the
name of Capk Manifolo, from the number of high hills which appeared over it : it lies in
latitude 22° 43' S., and distant about seventeen le- gues from Cape Capricorn, in t!»e
directim of N. 2() AV. Ijctween these capes the shore forms a liirge bay, whicli I called
Keppel Bay ; and I also distinguished the islands by the name of Keppel's Islands. In
this bay there is good anchorage ; but what refreshments it may afford I know not : ve
caught no fish, though we were at anchor j but probably tliere is fresh water in several
places, as both the islands and the main are inhabited. ^<Vv saw smoke and fires upon the
main ; and upon the islands we saw people. At three in the afternoon we passed Cape
Alanifold, from which the land trends N.N.W, The lar.J of the cape is high, rising in
hills directly from the sea ; and may be known by three islands which lie off it, one of
them near the shore, and the other two eight miles out at sea. One of these islands is low
and flat, and the other high arid round. At six o''clock in tlie evening we brought to, when
the northernmost part of tlie main in sight bore N.W., and some islands which lie off it
N. 31 W. Our soundings after twelve o'clock were from twenty to twenty-five fathom,
and in the night from thirty to thirty-four.

At daybreak we made sail, Cape Manifold bearing S. by E., distant eight leagues, and
the islands which I had set the night before were distant four miles in the same direction.
The farthest visible point of the main bore N. 07 W"., at the distance of twenty-two miles ;
but we could see several islands to the northward of tliis direction. At nine o'clock in
the forenoon we were abreast of the point, which I called Cape Townsoend. It lies in
latitude 22° la', longitude 209° 43': the land is high and level, and rather naked than
woody. Several islands lie to the northwr.rd of it, at the distance of four or five miles out
at sea ; three or four leagues to tlie S.E. the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which
there appeared to be an inlet or harbour. To the westward of the cape the land trends
S.W. ^ S., and there forms a very large bay, wiiich turns to the eastward, and probably
communicates with the inlet, and makes the land of the cape an island. As soon .as we got
round this cape, we hauled our wind to the westward, in order to get within the islands,
which lie scattered in the bay in great mmibcrs, and extend out to sea as far as tlio eye
could reach even from the mast-head. These islands vary, both in heiglit and circuit, from
each other; so that, although they are very numerous, no two of them are alike. We had
not stood long upon a wind before we came into shoal water, and were obliged to tack at
once to avoid it. Having sent a boat ahead, I bore away W. by N., many small islands,
rocks, and shoals, lying between us and the main, and many of a larger extent without us.
Our soundings till near noon wore from fourteen to seventeen fathom, when the boat made
the signal for meeting witli shoal water. Upon this wo hauled close upon a wind to tlic
eastward, but suddenly fell into three fathom and a quarter : we immediately dropped an
anchor, which brought the ship up witii all her sails standing. When the ship was brought
up we had four fathom, with a coarse f-iandy bottom, and found a strong tide setting to the
N.W. by W. ^ W., at the rate of near three miles an hour, by which we wero so suddenly
carried upon the shoal. Our latitude by observation was 22" 8' S. ; Cape Townshend bore
E. J6 S., distant thirteen miles; and tiic westernmost part of the main in sight W. ^ N.
At this time a great number of islands lay all round us.

In the afternoon, having sounded round the shi;., and found that there was water
sufficient to carry her over the shoal, we weighed, and uhout three o'clock made sail and
stood to the westward, as the land lay, having sent a boat aliead to sound. .Vt six in the
evening we anchored in ten fathom, with a sandy bottom, at about two miles' distance from
the main ; the westernmost part of wliich bore W.N.W., and a g. oat number of islands,
lying a long way without us, were still in sight.

May, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

221

At five o'clock the next morning I sent away the master with two boats to sound the
entrance of an inlet which bore from us west, at about the distance of a leajjuc, into which
I intended to go with tlie ship, that I might wait a few days till the moon should increase,
and in the mean time cxaniiuo the coantry. As soon as the ship could be got under sail,
the boats made the signal for anchorage ; upon which we stood in, and anchored in five
fathom water, about a league within tlu' entrance of the inlet ; which, as I observed a tide
to flow and ebb consider.ably, I judged to be a river that ran up the country to a consider-
able distance. In this place I had tl.oughts of laying the sliip ashore, and cleaning her
bottom J I therefore landed with the master in search of a convenient place for that purpose,
and was accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr. AVe found walking here exceedingly
troublesome, for the ground was covered with a ki.d of grass, the seeds of which wore very
sharp, and bearded backwards ; so that whenever they stuck into our clotiies, which, indeed,
was at every step, they worked forwards by means of the beard, till they got at the flesh j
and at the same time we were surrounded by a cloud of mosquitoes, whicli incessantly
tormented us with their stings. AVe soon met with several places where the ship might
conveniently bo laid ashore ; but to o»ir great disappointment we could find no fresh water.
We proceeded, however, up the country, where we found gum-trees like those thivt we had
seen before, and observed that here also the gum was in very small quantities. Upon the
branches of these trees, and some others, we found ants' nests, made of clay, as big as
a bushel, something like those described in Sir Hans Sloane's Natural History of Jamaica,
vol. ii., p. 22], tab. 258, but not so smooth: the ants which inhabited tliese nests were
small, and their bodies white. But upon another species of the tree we found a small black
ant, which perforated all the twigs, and having worke<l out the pith, occui)icd the pipe
which had contained It ; yet the parts in wliich these insects had thus formed a lodgment,
and in which tliey swarmed in amazing numbers, bore leaves and flowers, and a])peared to
be in as flourishing a state as those that wei-e sound. We found also an incredible number
of butterflies, so that for the space of three or four acres th(> air was so crowded with them,
that millions were to bo seen in every direction, at the same time tliat every branch and
twig was covered with others that were not upon the wing *. We found here also a small
fish of a singular kind ; it was about the size of a minnow, and had two very strong breast
fins: we found it in places that wxi'e quite dry, where we supposed it might have been left
by the tide ; but it did not seem to have become languid by the want of water ; for upon
our approach it leaped away, by the help of the breast fins, as nimbly as a frog : neither,
indeed, did it seem to prefer water to land.; for when we found it in the water, it frequently
leaped out, and pursued its way upon dry ::round : we also observed, that when it was in
places where small stones were standing above the surface of the water at a little distance
from each other, it chose rather to leap from stone to stone, than to pass through the water;

* The butterflies here iiu-ntioiioil, apponr to liave liccu
,1 singular species of motli, ciillcil Uiil'oiiu; by tlic natives,
«itli whom it is a favourite article of fooil. Captain Kiiipr
(in Ilia survey of tlie coasts of Australia, vol i., p. 19.1)
mentions it, and states tliat it is a new s-peciis, anil hail
lieen ilesciibed by his friinil Mr. W. S. Matkay, under
the name of Euplcea hamata.

Mr. George Uennctt, in his " Wanderings in New South
Wales," gives a particular description of it. 'JIuy are
found congregating at certain months ul ilio year about
masses of granite, in varioiis parts of a i.iuue of mountain
land, named fioui that circuinstanrc the " Hiip'oiii; Moun-
tain." The months of November, Dtnuibir, and .l.in.i-
ary, are quite a season of festivity an. out: the native blacU°,
who aFScniblc from fur and near to •'ollirt the Bugons ;
the bodies of these insects contain a quantity of oil, and
tliey are sought after as a luFcions and fattcmni.' food. They
arc confined to particular places " o'l insulated and pecu-
liar masses of granite ;" on the surface anil in the crevices
of tliese masses they collect in incredible ipiantitics ; to
procure them with greater facililv, the natives make

time sweeping them off frequently in husliels-full at a time.
AVhcn they have collected a sutlicient quantity, a ciicular
space is clcired upon the grotiiul, and a lire lighted and
kept burning until the earth is considered sttflicicntly
heated, when "on the fire being removed, . •• ' .ne ashes
cleared away, the moths are placed upon the heated ground,
and stilled about until the down and wings are removed
from them ; they are then placed on pieces of bark, and
winnowed to separate the dust and wings mixed with the
bodies; they are then eatin, or placed in a wooden vessel
called awal/jun or ciilibun, and pounded by a piece of wood
into nrifses or cakes resembling lumps of fat, and may bo
eompaied in colour and consistence to dough made from
smutty wheat mixed with fat. The boi'ics of the moths
are large, and tilled with a yellowish oil, resembling in taste
a sweet nut. These masses will not kcc|i above a week,
and Eeldiun even tor that time ; but by smoking they are
able to prcseive them for a much longer peiii d. 'Jlie first
time this diet is used by the native tribes, vicdent voiiiiliiig
and other debilitating ell'icts are produced : but after a few
days, they beeoine accustomed to its use, auil ihcu thrive

smothered fires underneath thosr rocks abnut which they ami fatten exceedingly upon it." — Kd.
are cullected, and sulfucatc them with smoke, at ihu same

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGK ROUND THE M^ORLl>.

May, 1770.

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and wc saw several of them pass entirely over puddles in this manner, till they came to dry
ground, and then leap away.

In tlie afternoon, we renewed our scarcli after fresh water, but without success ; and
therefore I determined to make my stay here but short : however, having observed from an
eminence that the inlet penetrated a considerable way into the country, I determined to trace
it in the morning. At sunrise I went ashore, and climbing a considerable hill, I took a
view of the coast and the islands that lie otF it, with their bearings, having an azimuth
compass with me for that purpose ; but I observed that the needle differed very consider-
ably in its position, even to thirty degrees, in some places more, in others less ; and once
I found it differ from itself no less than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. I took
up some of the loose stones that lay upon the ground, and applied them to the needle, but
they produced no effect ; and I therefore concluded that there was iron ore in the hills, of
which I had remarked other indications both here and in the neighbouring parts. After I
had made my observations upon the hill, I proceeded with Dr. Solander up the inlet ; I set
out with the first of the flood, and long before high-water I had advanced above eight
leagues. Its breadth thus far was from two to five miles, upon a S.AV. by S. direction ;
but here it opened everyway, and formed a largo lake, which to the N. W. communicated
with the sea ; and I not only saw the sea in this direction, but found the tide of flood
coming strongly in from that jjoint : I also observed an arm of this lake extending to the
eastward, and it is not improbable that it may communicate with the sea in the bottom of
the bay, which lies to the westward of Cape Townshend. On the south side of the lake is
a ridge of high hills, which I was very desirous to climb; but it being high-water, and the
day far spent, I was afraid of being bewildered among the shoals in the night, especially as
the weather was dark and rainy; and therefore I made the best of my way to the ship. In
this excursion I saw only two people, and they were at a distance ; they followed the boat
along the shore a good way, but the tide running strongly in my favour, I could not pru-
dently wait for them ; I saw, however, several fires in one direction, and smoke in another,
but they also were at a distance. While I was tracing the inlet with Dr. Solander,
Mr. Banks was endeavouring ti> penetrate into the country, whex'o several of the people who
had leave to go Uolio^e were also rambling about. Mr. Banks and his party found
tlioir course obstructed by a swamp, covered with mangroves, which, however, they
resolved to pass ; the Tuud was almost knee-deep, j'et they resolutely went on ; but
Ix'fore they got half way, they repented of their undertaking : the bottom was covered
with branches of trees interwoven with eacl> other, sometimes they kept their footing
upon them, sometimes their feet slij)ped through, and sometimes llicy were so entan-
gled among them, that they were forced to free themselves by groping in the mud
and slime with their hands. In about an hour, jiowever, tliey crossed it, and judged it
might be about a quarter of a mile over. After a short walk, they came up to a place
where there had been four small fires, and near them some shells and bones of fish that had
been roasted : they found also heaps of grass laid together, where four or five people
appeared to have slept. The second lieutenant, i\Ir. Gore, who was at another place, saw
a little water lying in the bottom of a gulley, and near it the track of a largo animal : some
bustards were also seen, but none of th(;m shot, nor any other bird except a few of the
beautiful loriquets which we had seen in Botany Bay. Mr. Gore, and one of the midsiiip-
men, who were in different places, said that they had heard the voices of Indians near the ^,
but had seen none : the country in general appeared sandy and barren, and being destitute
of fresh water, it cannot be supposed to have any settled inhabitants. The deep gulleys,
which were worn by torrents from the hills, pi'ove, that at certain seasons the rains here arc
very copious and heavy.

The inlet in which the ^..ip lay, I called Tiiihsty SouNn, because it afforded us no fresh
water. It lies in latitude 22" 10' S., and lor.gitudo 210° IJl' W. ; and may be known by a
group of small islands lying under the shore, from two to five leagues distant, in the direc-
tion of X.W., and by another group of islands that lie right before it, between three and
four leagues out at sea. Over each of the points that form the entrance is a high round
hill, which, on the N.W., is a peninsula that at high-water is surrounded by the sea : they

ler.

June, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

223

are bold to botli the shores, and the distance between thcni is about two miles. In tliia
inlet is good anchorage in seven, six, five, and four fathom ; and phici-s very convenient for
laying a ship down, where, at sjuing-tides, the water does not rise less than sixteen or
eighteen feet. The tide flovvs at the full and change of the moon about eleven o'clock. I
have already observed that here is no fresh water, nor could we procure refreshment of any
other kind : we saw two turtles, but we were not able to take either of thcrn : neither did
we catch either fish or wild-fowl, except a few small hnul birds : we saw indeed the same
sorts of water-fowl as in Botany Bay, but they were so shy that wc could not get a shot at
them.

As I had not therefore a single inducement to stay lonjxer iu this place, I weighed anchor
at six o'clock in the morning of Thursday the 31st of May, and put to sea. AVc stood to
the N.W. with a fresh breeze at S.S.E., and kept without the group of islands that Ho in
shore, and to the N.W. of Thirsty Sound, as there appeared to be no safe passage between
them and the main ; at the same time we had a number of islands without us, extending as
far as we could see : during our run in this direction, our depth of water was ten, eight, and
nine fathom. At noon, the west point of Tliirsty Sound, which I have called Pier Head,
bore S. 36 E., distant five leagues ; the east point of the other inlet, which communicates
with the Sound, bore S. by W,, distant two leagues ; the gi-oup of islands just mentioned
lay between us and the point, and the fiirthcst part of the nain iu sight, on the other side
of the inlet, bore N.W. Our latitude by observation was ?1^ 53'. At half an hour after
twelve, the boat, which w^as sounding ahead, made the signal for shoal- water, and we imme-
diately hauled our wind to the N.E. At this time we liad seven fathom, at the next cast
five, and at the next three, upon which we instantly dropped an anchor, that brought the
ship up. Pier-licad, the north-west j>oint of Thirsty Sound, bore S.E. distant six leagues,
being half-way between the islands which lie off the east point of the western inlet, and
three small islands which lie directly without them. It was now the first of the flood,
which wo found to set N.W. by W. ^ W. ; and having sounded about the shoal, upon
which we had three fathom, and found deep water all round it, we got under sail, and
having hauled round the three islands that have been just mentioned, came to an anchor
under the lee of them, in fifteen fathom water; and the weather being dark, hazy, and
rainy, we remained there till seven o'clock in the morning. At this time we got again
imder sail, and stood to the N.W. with a fresh breeze at S.S.E. ; having the mainland iu
sight, and a number of islands all round us, some of which lay out at sea as far as the eyo
could reach. The western inlet, which, in the chart, is distinguished by the juime of Broad
Sound, we had now all open ; at the entrance, it is at least nine or ten leagues wide : in
it, and before it, lie several islands, and probably shoals also ; for (uir soundings were very
irregular, varying suddenly from ten to four fathom. At noon, our latitude by observation
was 21° 29' S. ; a jmint of land which forms the north-west entrance into Broad Sound
and which I have named Cape Palmekston, lying in latitude 21= 30', longitude 210° 54'
W. bore W. by N. distant three leagues. Our latitude was 21' 27', our longitude 210'- .57'.
Between this Cape and Capo Townshcud lies the bay which 1 have called the Bay op
Inlets. We continued to stand to the N.W. and N.W. by N., as the land lay, under an
easy sail, having a boat ahead to sound : at first the soundings were very irregular, from
nine to four fathom ; but afterwards they were regular, from nine to eleven. At eight in
the evening, being about two leagues from the main land, wc anchored in eleven fathom,
with a sandy bottom ; and soon after, we found the tide setting with a slow motion to the
westward. At one o'clock, it was slack, or low water ; and at half au hour after two, the
ship tended to the eastward, and rode so till six iu the morning, when the tide had risen
eleven feet. Wo now irot under sail, and stood away in the direction of the coast, N.N.W.
From what wc had observed of the tide during the night, it is plain, that the flood came
from the N.W. ; whereas, the preceding day, and several ilays before, it came from the S.E. ;
nor was this the first, or even second time, that we had remarked the same thing. At sun-
rise this morning, we foimd the variation to be (»- l.V E. : and in steering along the shore,
between the island and the main, at the di.'rtancc of about two leagues from the main, and
three or four from the island, our soundings were regular from twelve to nine fathom ; but

I '

^11

' " fv i

I«i

: ti

224

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

June, 1770.

j ')

1'^

' !

nil

!, <i^

about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we were again enibairasscd with shoal water, having
at one time not more tliJin three fathom ; yet wo got clear, witliout casting anchor. At
noon we were about two leagues from the main, and four from the islands witliout us. Our
latitude by observation was 20° ^t}', and a high promontory, which I named Cape IIills-
BORocGii, bore W. ^ N., distant seven miles. The land here is diversified by mountains,
hills, plains, and valleys, and seems to be well clothed with herbage and wood : tlic islands
which lie parallel to the coast, and from five to eight or nine miles distant, are of various
height and extent ; scarcely any of tliem are more than five leagues in circumference, and
many are not four miles : besides this chain of islands, which lies at a distance from the
coast, there are others much less, which lie under the land, from which we saw smoke rising
in different places. We continued to steer along the shore at the distance of about two
leagues, with regular soundings from nine to ten fathom. At sunset, the farthest point of
the main bore N. 48 W., and to the northward of this lay some high land, which I took to
be an island, and of which the north-west point bore 41 W. ; but not being sure of a pas-
sage, I came to an anchor about eight o'clock in the evening, in ten fathom water, with a
muddy bottom. About ten we had a tide setting to the northward, and at two it had fiillen
nine feet ; after this it began to rise, and the flood came from the northward, in the direc-
tion of the islands which lay out to sea ; a plain indication that there was no passage to the
N.W. This however, had not appeared at daybreak, when we got under sail and stood to
the N.W. At eight o'clock in the morning, we discovered low land quite across what we
took for an opening, which proved to be a bay, about five or six leagues deep ; upon this
we hauled our wind to the eastwi^rd round the north point of the bay, which at this time
bore from us N.E. by N., distant four leagues : from this point we found the land trend
away N. by W. A W., and a strait or passage between it and a large island, or islands,
lying parallel to it. Having the tide of ebb in our favour, we stood for this passage, and at
noon were just within the entrance : our latitude by observation was 20° 2()' S. ; Cape
Hillsborough bore S. by E., distant ten leagues ; and the north point of the bay S. 10 W.,
distant four miles. This point, which I named Cape Conway, lies in latitude 20° 36' S.,
longitude 2il° 28' W. ; and the bay which lies between this Cape and Cape Hillsborough,
I called Repulse Bay. The greatest depth of water which we found in it was tliirteen
fathom, and the least eight. In all parts there was safe anchorage, and I believe tliat, upon
proper examination, some good harbours would be found in it ; especially at the north side
within Cape Conway ; for just within that Cape, there lie two or three small islands, which
alone would shelter that side of the bay from the southerly and south-easterly winds, that
seem to prevail here as a Trade. Among the many islands that lie upon this coast, there is
one more remarkable than the rest ; it is of a small circuit, very high and peaked, and lies
E. by S. ten njilcH from Cape Conway, at the south end of the passage. In the afternoon,
w^o steered through this passage, which we foxmd to be from three to seven miles broad, and
eight or nine leagues in length, N. by W. ^ W., S. by E. ^ E. It is formed by the main
on the west, and by the islands on the east, one of which is at least five leagues in length :
our depth of water in running through was from twenty to five-and-twenty fathom, with
good anchorage, everywhere, and the whole passage may be considered as one safe harbour,
exclusive of tiie small bays and coves wliich abound on each side, where ships might lie as
in a basin. Tlie land, botli upon the main and islands, is high, and diversified by hill and
valley, wood and lawn, with a green and plea.sant ajtpearauce. On one of the islands, we
discovered with our glasses two men and a woman, and a canoe with an outrigger, which
appeared to be hirger, and of a construction very different from those of bark tied together
at the ends, which we had seen upon otlier parts of the coast ; we hoped therefore that the
people here had made some fivrthtr advances beyond mere animal life than those that wo
had seen before. At six o'clock in the evening, we were nearly tiie length of t!ie north end
of the passage ; the north-westernmost point of the main in sight bore N. iVI W., and tlio
north end of tl>o island N.N.E., witli an open soa between tl>c two points. As this passage
was discovered on Whitsunday, I called it AViiitsinday's Passage; and I called the
islands that form it Cumheuland Islands, in honour of his Royal Highness the Duke.
We kept under an easy sail, with the lead going all night, being at the distance of about

111

June, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

three leagues from the shore, and having from twenty-one to twenty-three fiithoui water.
At dayhreak we were abreast of the point whieh liad been the farthest in sight to the
north-west the evening before, wliieli I named Cape Gloucester. It is a lofty promon-
tory*, in latitude 19° 59' S., longitude 211° 49' W., and may be known by an island which
lies out at sea N. by W. J W. at the distance of five or six leagues from it, and whicli I
called IIoLUouNE Isle ; there are also islands lying under the land between Ilolborno Islo
and Whitsunday's Passage. On the -vest side of Cape Gloucester the land trends away
S.W. aiid S.S.W., and forms a deep bay, the bottom of which I could but just see from the
mast-head : it is very low, and a continuation of the low land which we had seen at tiie
bottom of Repulse Bay. Tiiis bay I called Edgecumue Bay, but without staying to look
into it, we continued our course to the westward, for the farthest land we could see in that
direction, whieh bore W. by N. ^ N, and appeared very high. At noon, we were about
three leagues from the shore, by observation in latitude 19° 47 S., and Cape Gloucester
bore S. 63 E., distant seven leagues and a half. At six in the evening, we were abreast of
the westernmost point just mentioned, at about three miles distance ; and because it rises
abruptly from the low lands which surround it, I called it Cape Upstart. It lies in lati-
tude 19" 39' S., longitude 212" 32' W., fourteen leagues W.N.W. from Cape Gloucester,
and is of a height sufficient to be seen at the distance of twelve leagues : inland there are
some high hills or mountains, which, like the Cape, afford but a barren prospect. Having
passed this Cape, we continued standing to theW.N.W. as the land lay, under an easy
sail, having from sixteen to ten fathom, till two o'clock in the morning, when we fell into
seven fathom ; upon which we hauled our wind to the northward, judging ourselves to be
very near land : at daybreak, we found our conjecture to be true, being within little
more than two leagues of it. In this part of the coast, the land, being very low, is nearer
than it appears to be, though it is diversified with here and there a hill. At noon, we were
about four leagues from, the land, in fifteen fathom water, and our latitude, by observation,
was 19° 12' S., Cape Upstart bearing S. 32° 30' E., distant twelve leagues. About this
time some very large columns of smoke were seen rising from the lowlands. At sunset,
the preceding night, when we were close under Cape Upstart, the variation was nearly 9° li.,
and at sunrise this day it was no more than .5° 35' ; I judged therefore that it had been
influenced by iron ore, or other magnctical matter, contained under the surface of the earth f.
We continued to steer W.N.W. as the land lay, with twelve or fourteen fathom water,
till noon on the 6th, when our latitude by cSservation was 19° 1' S. and wo had the moutli
of a bay all open, extending from S. J, E. to S.W.'i S. distant two leagues. This bay,
which I named Cleveland Bay, appeared to be about five or six miles in extent every
way : the east point I named Cape Cleveland, and the west, whicli had the appearance of
an island, Magnetical Isle, as we ])crceived that tlie compass did not traverse well when
we were near itj : they are ^both high, and so is the mainland within them, the wliolo
forming a surface the most rugged, rocky, and barren of any we had seen upon the coast ;
it was not however without inhabitants, for we saw smoke in several jiarts of the Ixittom of
the bay. The northernmost land that was in sigiit at this time bore N.W., and it had the
appearance of an island, for we could not trace tin; maiidand farther than W. by X. A\'i>
steered W.N.W. keeping the mainlaiul on board, tlie outermost i^art of whieh, at sunset,
bore W. by N. ; but without it lay high laud, whieii we judged not to be part of it. At

) I ,

* This is in reality an island (now known ns GIo\icc8tcr
I>lan(l) of five niiios long. It is soparatcd from tlio real
Cii|K' liy a strait, a mile and a lialf wide. See Iviiig's

a half wide,
Survey of tlie roaats of Australia. — Ed.

f'Tlie vaiiatiuii observed liy Captain Cool< oil' jMoinit
I'pstiirt was 9" K. ; luit liy an a/.innith observed by nio
cliise to tlie Cape, it was found not more tliiiii C IG' K.
The roeiilt of Captain Cook's observation must therefore
be attribntcd to some other cause tiian, as he su]ipo><ed, to
a magnetical power in the hills of tliis promontory." —
King's Survey of the Coast of Australia, vol. i. p 190.

t In reference to tliis passage, Captain King remarks
that in taking some bearings when ou eLoro in Cleveland

Bay, " a remarkable observation was lierc made upon
tlie magiictie inlluenec of this land ; the v.irialion was
observed to be 10" 32' \V. ; but on removing the eonipass
eight yards oil", it only gave 2" 50' 10. 'i'liis in some de-
gne correjpouds with Ca)ilaiii Cook's record of the irregu-
larity of hit compass when he parsed near this |i;irl of tliO
coast, in consequence of which, he called the peaked
island to the westward of the cape, Maguelical Island :
this iruguhirily, however, was not noticed liy me in my
observations near the same spot; and the dillVreiice ob-
served by him may very piobiibly have been occasioned by
the ship's local attraction, wliicli in those d:iys was un-
known." — Eu.

Mill

iHMii

2S6

COOK'S FIRST yOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

June, 1770.

■ \n

daybreak, wo were abreast of tbo eastern part of tbis land, wbich wo found to be a group
of islands, lying about five leagues from the main : at tbis time, being between tbe two
ebores, we advanced slowly to tbo N.W. till noon, wben our latitude, by observation, was
18° 49' S. and our distance from tbe main about five leagues : tbe north-west part of it bore
from us N. by W, ^ "W., tbe islands extending from N. to E., and tbo nearest being distant
about two miles; Capo Cleveland bore S. 50 E. distant eigbtcen leagues. Our soundings,
in tbo course tbat wo bad sailed between tbis time and the preceding noon, were from
fourteen to eleven fathom.

In the afternoon, wo saw several large columns of smolco upon the main ; we saw also
some people and canoes, and upon one of the islands what had tbe appearance of cocoa-nut
trees. As a few of these nuts would now have been very acceptable, I sent Lieutenant Ilicks
ashore, and with him went Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to see what refreshment could bo
procured, while I kept standing in for tbo island with the ship. About seven o'clock in tlic
evening they returned, with an account that what we bad taken for cocoa-nut trees were a
small kind of cabbage-palm, and tiiui., c:rc"pt about fourteen or fifteen plants, they had mot
with nothing worth bringing away. While they were ashore they saw none of the people ;
but just as they bad put off, one of them came very near the beach, and shouted with a loud
voice. It was so dark that they could not see him ; however, they turned towards the
shore ; but wben he beard the boat putting back, he ran away or bid himself, for they could
not get a glimpse of him ; and though they shouted, be made no reply. After the return
of the boats, we stood away N. by W. for the northernmost land in sight, of which we were
abreast at three o'clock in tbo morning, having passed all the islands three or four hours
before. This land, on account of its figure, I named Point Hillock ; it is of a considerable
height, and may be known by a round hillock, or rock, which joins to the point, but appears
to be detached from it. Between tbis cape and Magnetical Isle, tbe shore forms a largo bay,
wbich I called Halifax Bay : before it Lay tbe group of islands which has been just men-
tioned, and some others at a less distance from the shore. By these islands the bay is
sheltered from all winds, and it affords good anchorage. The land near tbe beach, in the
bottom of the bay, is low and woody ; but farther bivck it is one continued ridge of high
land, which appeared to be barren and rocky. Having passed Point Hillock, we continued
standing to the N.N.W., as tbe land trended, having the advantage of a light moon. At
six, we were abreast of a point of land which lies N. by W. i W,, distant eleven miles from
Point Hillock, which I named Cape Sandwich. Between these two points tbe land is very
high, and the surface is craggy and barren. Cape Sandwich may be known not only by the
high craggy land over it, but by a small island wbich lies east of it, at the distance of a mile,
and some others that lie about two leagues to the northward. From Cape Sandwich tlie
land trends W., and afterwards N., forming a fine large bay, wbich I called Rockingham
Bay, where there appears to be good shelter and good anchorage, but I did not stay to
examine it. I kept ranging along the shore to the northward for a cluster of small islands
which lie off the northern point of the bay. Between the three outermost of tVcse islands,
and those near the shore, I found a channel of about a mile broad, through which I passed ;
and, upon one of the nearest islands, we saw with our glasses about thirty of the natives,
men, women, and children, all standing together, and looking with great attention at tbo
ship, — the first instance of curiosity that we had seen among them. They were all stark
naked, with short hair, and of the same complexion with those that we had seen before.
At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 17° 59', and we were abreast of the north point
of Rockingham Bay, which bore from us W., at tbe distance of about two miles. This
boundary of the bay is formed by an island of considerable height, which in the chart is dis-
tinguished by the name of Dl'nk Isle, and wbich lies so near the shore as not to be easily
distinguished from it. Our longitude was 213° 57' W. ; Cape Sandwich bore S. by E. | E.,
distant nineteen miles ; and the northernmost land in sight, N. k W. Our depth of water
for tbe last ten hours had not been more than sixteen, nor less thiin S3ven, fathom. At sun-
set, the northern extremity of the land bore N. 25 W., and we kepi our course N. by W.
along the coast, at the distance of between three and four leagues, with an easy sail all night,
having from twelve to fifteen fathom water.

June, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

At SIX o'clock in the morninn;, we were abreast of some small islands, which we called
Frankland's Isles, and which lie about two leagues distant from the mainland. The most
distant point in sight to the northward bore N. by W. 4 W., and we thought it was part of
the main, but afterwards found it to be an island of considerable height, and about four miles
in circuit. Between this island and a point on the main, from which it is distant about two
miles, I passed with the ship. At noon, we were in the middle of the channel, and, by-
observation, in the latitude of 16" 57' S., with twenty fathom water. The point on the
main, of which wo were now abreast, I called Cape Grafton ; its latitude is 10° 57' S.,
and longitude .214" G' W. ; and the land hero, as well as the whole coast for about twenty
leagues to the southward, is high, has a rocky surface, and is thinly covered with wood.
During the night we had seen several fires, and about noon some people. Having hauled
round Cape Grafton, we found the land trend away N.W. by W. ; and three miles to tho
westward of the cape wo found a bay, in which we anchored about two miles from the shore,
in four fathom water, with an oozy bottom. The east point of tho bay bore S. 74 E., tho
west point S. 83 W., and a low, green, woody island, which lies in the offing, N. 35 E.
This island, which lies N. by E. ^ E., distant three or four leagues from Cape Grafton, is
called in the chart Green Island.

As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor, I went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks
and Dr. Solander. As my principal view was to procure some fresh water, and as tlie
bottom of the bay was low land covered witli mangroves, where it was not probable fresh
water was to be found, I went out towards tlie cape, and found two small streams, which,
however, were rendered very difficult of access by the surf and rocks upon the shore. I saw
also, as I came round the cape, a small stream of water run over the beach in a sandy cove ;
but I did not go in with the boat, because I saw that it would not be easy to land. Vi
we got ashore, we found the country everywhere rising into steep rocky hills ; and as no
fresh water could conveniently be procured, I was unwilling to lose time by going in search
of lower land elsewhere. We therefore made the best of our way back to the ship ; and about
midnight we weighed, and stood to the N.W., having but little wind, with some showers of
rain. At four in tho morning, the breeze freshened at S. by E., and the weather became
fair. We continued steering N.N.W. ^ W. as the land lay, at about three leagues distance,
with ten, twelve, and fourteen fathom water. At ten, we hauled off north, in order to get
without a small low island, which lay at about two leagues distance from the main, and
great part of which at this time, it being high- water, was overflowed. About three leagues
to the north-west of this island, close under the mainland, is another island, the land of
which rises to a greater height, and which at noon bore from us N. 55 W,, distant seven or
eight miles. At this time our latitude was 16'' 20' S. ; Cape Grafton bore S. 29 E., distant
forty miles ; and the northernmost point of land in sight, N. 20 W. : our depth of water was
fifteen fathom. Between this point and Cape Grafton, the shore forms a large, but not a
very deep bay, which being discovered on Trinity Sunday, I called Trinity Bay.

CHAPTER III. — dangerous SITUATION OF THE SHIP IN HER COURSE FROM TRINITY HAY TO

ENDEAVOUR RIVER.

Hitherto wo had safely navigated this dangerous coast, where the sea in all parts conceals
shoals that suddenly project from the shore, and rocks that rise abruptly like a pyramid from
the bottom, for an extent of two-and-twenty degrees of latitude, more than one thousand
three hundred miles ; and therefore hitherto none of the names which distinguish the several
parts of the country that we saw, are memorials of distress ; but here wo became acquainted
with misfortune, and wc therefore called the point which wo had just seen farthest to tho
northward, Ca e Tribulation.

This cape lies in latitude 16° 6' S., and longitude 214° 39' W. We steered along tho
shore N. by W., at the distance of between three and four leagues, having from fourteen to
twelve, and ten fathom water: in the offing we saw two islands, which lie in latitude 10° S.,
and about six or seven leagues from tho main. At six in the evening the northernmost land

II ' ' I

22B

COt»K'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

JlNE, 1770,

I :^

in sight liorc N. by W. i W., and two low woody islands, which some of lis took to ho
rocks ahovo waler, horo N. ^ W. At tliis time wo shortened sail, and hauled off shore
E.N.E. and N.E. by Vi. close upon a wind ; for it was my design to stretch off all night, as
well to avoid the danger wo saw ahead, as to see whetlier any islands lay in tho offing,
especially as we were now near tho latitude assigned to tho islands which were discovered
by Quiros, and which some geographers, for what reason I know not, have thought fit to
join to this laud. AV^e had the advantage of a fine breeze, and a clear moonlight night, and
in standing off from six till near nine o'clock, we deepened our water from fourteen to twenty-
one fathom ; but while we were at supper, it suddenly shoaled, and we fell into twelve, ten,
and eight fathom, within the space of a few minutes ; I immediately ordered everybody to
their station, and all was ready to put abotit and come to iin anchor, but meeting at tlui next
cast of the lead with deep water again, we concluded that wo had gone over the tail of the
shoals which we had seen at sunset, and tliat all danger was past : before ten we had twenty
and onc-and-twenty fathom, and this depth continuing, the gentlemen left the deck in great
tranquillity, and went to bed ; but a few minutes before eleven, the water shallowed at once
from twenty to seventeen fathom ; and before the lead could be cast again, the ship struck,
and remained immoveable, except by the heaving of the surge that beat her against the
crags of the rock upon which she lay. In a few moments everybody wag upon the deck,
with countenances which sufficiently expressed the horrors of our situation. We had stood
off the shore three hours and a half, with a pleasant breeze, and therefore knew that we
could not bo very near it, and we had too much reason to conclude that we we were upon a
rock of coral, which is more fatal than any other, because the points of it are sharp, and
every part of the surface so rough, as to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, even with
tlie gentlest motion. In this situation all the sails were immediately taken in, and the boats
hoisted out to examine the depth of water round the ship : we soon discovered that our fears
had not aggravated our misfortune, and that the vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the
rock, and lay in a hollow within it : in some places there was from three to four fathom,
and in others not so many feet. The ship lay with her head to tho N.E. ; and at the
distance of about thirty yards on the starboard side, the water deepened to eight, ten, and
twelve fathom. As soon as the long-boat was out, we struck our yards and topmasts, and
carried out the stream anchor on the starboard bow, got the coasting-anchor and cable into the
boat, and were going to carry it out the sanic way ; but upon sounding a second time round
the ship, the water was found to be deepest astern : the anchor, therefore, was caiTied out
from the starboard quarter instead of the starboard bow, — that is, from the stern instead of
the head, — and having taken ground, our utmost force was applied to the capstan, hoping
that if the anchor did not come home, the ship would be got off; but, to our great
misfortune and disappointment, we could not move her : during all this time she continued
to beat with great violence against the rock, so that it was with the utmost difficulty that
wo kept upon our legs ; and to complete the scene of distress, we saw by the light of tlio
moon the sheathing-boards from the bottom of the vessel floating away all round her, and at
last her false keel, so that every moment was making way for the sea to rush in which was
to swallow us up. We had now no chance but to lighten her, and we had lost the oppor-
timity of doing that to the greatest advantage, for unhappily we went on shore just at high
water, and by this time it had considerably fiillen, so that after she should be lightened so
as to draw as much less water as the water had sunk, we should be but in the same
situation as at first ; and the only alleviation of this circumstance was, that as the tide
ebbed the ship settled to the rocks, and was not beaten against them with so much violence.
We had indeed some hope from the next tide, but it was doubtful whether she would hold
together so long, especially as the rock kept grating her bottom under the starboard bow
witli such force as to be heard in tlu; fore store-room. This, however, was no time to indulge
conjecture, nor was any effort remitted in despair of success : that no time might be lost, tho
water was immediately starts u in the hold, and pumped up ; six of our guns, being all wo
had upon the deck, our iron and stone balisist, casks, hoop-staves, oil-jars, decayed stores,
and many other things that lay in the way of heavier materials, were thrown overboard with
the utmost expedition, every one exerting himself with an alacrity almost approaching to

shouh
they
died
must
and
if she
and a
of th

NE, 1770.

»ok to 1)0
off shore
niglit, as
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iscoverc'd
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iglit, and

twcnty-
olvp, ten,
ybody to
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lil of tlic
tl twenty

in great

Jink, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOtAGE HOUND Tllli WORLD.

Z2t)

clicorfiilncss, witliont the Ksast repining or discontent; yet the men were so far in pressed
with a sense of their situation, tliat not an oath wan lieard among them, the habit of pro-
faneness, Iiowcvcr strong, being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt when
death seemed to be so near.

While we were thus employed day broke upon us, and we saw the land at about eight
leagues distance, without any island in the intermediate space, upon which, if the ship
should have gone to pieces, wo might have been set ashore by the boats, and from which
they might have taken us by different turns to the main : the wind, however, gradually
died away, and early in the forenoon it was a dead calm ; if it had blown hard the ship
must inevitably have been destroyed. At eleven in the forenoon we expected high water,
and anchors were got out, and everything made ready for another effort to heave her off
if she should float, but to our inexi)ressible surprise and concern, she did not float by a foot
and a half, though we had lightened her near fifty ton ; so much did the day-tide fall short
of tliat in the night. AVe now proceeded to lighten her still more, and th»'ew overboard
everything that it was possible for us to spare : hitherto she had not adniit^.d much water,
but as the tide fell, it rushed in so fast, that two pumps, incessantly worked, could scarcely
keep her free. At two o^cloek she lay heeling two or three streaks to starboard, and
the pinnace, which lay tmder her bows, touched the ground : we had now no hope but from
the tide at midnight, and to prepare for it we carried out our two bower-anchors, one on tlio
starboard quarter, and the other right astern, got the blocks and tackle wliich were to give
U3 a purchase upon the cables in order, and brought the falls, or ends of them, in abaft,
straining them tight, that the next effort might operate upon the ship, and by shortening tho
length of tho cable between that and tho anchors, draw her off the ledge upon which sho
rested, towards the deep water. About five o'clock in the afternoon, we observed the tide
begin to rise, but we observed at the same time that the leak increased to a most alarming
degree, so that two more pumps were manned, but unhappily only one of them would work.
Three of the pumps, however, were kept going, and at nine o'clock the ship righted ; but
tho leak had gained upon us so considerably, that it was imagined sho must go to tho
bottom as soon as she ceased to be supported by the rock. This was a dreadful circumstance,
so that we anticipated the floating of the ship not as an earnest of deliverance, but as an
event that vvould probably precipitate our destruction. We well knew that our boats were
not capable of carrying us all on shore, and that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, as all
command and subordination would be at an end, a contest for preference would probably
ensue, that would increase even the horrors of shipwreck, and terminate in the destruction
of us all by the hands of each other ; yet we knew that if any should be left on board to perish
in the Wivves, they would probably sufler less upon the whole than those who should get on
shore, without any lasting or effectual defence against tho natives, in a country where even
nets and fire-arms would scarcely furnish them with food : and where, if they should find
the means of subsistence, they must be condemned to languish out the remainder of life in a
desolate wilderness, without the possession, or even lio])e, of any domestic comfort, and cut
off from all commerce with mankind, except the naked savages who prowled the desert, and
who perhaps were some of the most rude and uncivilised upon the earth.

To those only who have waited in a state of such suspense, death has approached in all
his terrors ; and as the dreadful moment that was to determine our fate canto on, every one
saw his own sensations pictured in the countenances of his companions : however, the capstan
and windlass were manned with as many hands as could bo spared from the pumps, and tho
ship floating about twenty minutes after ten o'clock, the effort was made, and she was
heaved into deep water. It was some comfort to find that she did not now admit more
water than sho had done upon the rock ; and though, by tho gaining of the leak upon the
pumps, there was no less than three feet nine inches water in the hold, yet tho men did not
relinquish their labour, and we held the water as it were at bay j but having now endured
excessive fatigue of body and agitation of mind for more than four-and-twciity hours, and
having but little hope of succeeding at last, they began to flag : none of them could work at
the pump more than five or six minutes together, and then, being totally exhausted, they
threw themselves down upon the deck, though a stream of water was running over it from

<l|:l

II llllllllll I III I II

S80

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Junk, 1770.

Ji / h

the pumps, between three and four inches deep ; when those who succeeded them had
worked their spell, and were exhausted in their turn, tliey threw themselves down in tlie
same manner, and the others started up again, and renewed their labour ; thus relieving
each other till an accident was very near putting an end to their efforts at once. Tho
planking wl)ioh lines the inside of the ship's bottom is called tho ceiling, and between this
and tho outside planking there is a space of about eighteen inches : the man who till this
time had attended the well to take the depth of water, had taken it only to tho ceiling, and
gave the measure accordingly ; but ho being now relieved, the person who came in his stead
reckoned the depth to the outside planking, by which it appeared in a few minutes to have
gained upon the pumps eighteen inches, the difference between tho planking without and
within. Upon this, even tho bravest was upon tho point of giving up his labour with his
hope, and in a few minutes everything would have been involved in nil the confusion of
despair. But this accident, however dreadful in its first consequences, was eventually tho
cause of our preservation : the fMistivko was soon detected, and the sudden joy which every
man felt upon finding his situation better than his fears had suggested, operated like a
charm, and seemed to possess him with a strong belief that scarcely any real danger remained.
New confidence and new hope, however founded, inspired new vigour ; and though our
state was tho same as when the men first began to slacken in their labour through weariness
and despondency, they now renewed their efforts with such alacrity and spirit, that before
eight o'clock in tho morning the leak was so far from having gained upon the pumps, that
the pumps had gained considerably upon tho leak. Everybody now talked of getting the
ship into some harbour as a thing not to be doubted, and as hands could be spared from
the pumps, they were enii)loyed in getting up the anchors : tho stream-anchor and best
bower we had taken on board ; but it was found impossible to save the little bower, and
therefore it was cut away at a whole cable : we lost also the cable of the stream-anchor
among the rocks; but in our si i ion these were trifles which scarcely attracted our notice.
Our next business was to get up the fore-topmast and fore-yard, and warp the ship to tho
south-east, and at eleven, having now a breeze from the sea, we once more got under sail
and stood for tho land.

It was, however, impossible long to continue the labour by which the pumps had been
made to gain upon the leak ; and as the exact situation of it could not be discovered, we had
no hope of stopping it within. In this situation Mr. IMonkhouse, one of my midshipmen,
came to me, and proposed an expedient that he had once seen used on board a merchant-ship,
which sprung a leak that admitted above four feet water an hour, and which, by this
expedif nt, was brought safely from Virginia to London ; the master having such confidence
in it, that he took her out of harbour, knowing her condition, and did not think it worth
while to wait till the leak could be otherwise stopped. To this man, therefore, the care of
the expedient, which is called fothering the ship, was immediately committed, four or five
of the people being appointed to assist him, and he performed it in this manner : he took a
lower studdingsail, and having mixed together a large quantity of oakum and wool, chopped
pretty small, he stitched it down in handfuls upon the sail, as lightly as possible, and over
this he spread the dung of our sheep and other filth ; but horse-dung, if we had had it,
would have been better. When the sail was thus prepared, it was hauled under the ship's
bottom by ropes, which kept it extended, and when it came under the leak, the suction
which carried in the water, carried in with it the oakum and wool from the surface of the
sail, which in other parts the water was not sufficiently agitated to wash off. By the suc-
cess of this expedient our leak was so far reduced, that instead of gaining upon three pumps,
it was easily kept under with one. This was a new source of confidence and comfort j the
people could scarcely have expressed more joy if they had been already in port ; and their
views were so far from being limited to running the ship ashore in some harbour, either of an
island or the main, and building a vessel out of her materials to carry us to the East Indies,
which had so lately been the utmost object of our hope, that nothing was now thought of but
ranging along the shore in search of a convenient place to repair the damage she had sus-
tained, and then prosecuting the voyage upon the same plan as if nothing had happened.
Upon this occasion I must observe, both in justice and gratitude to tho ship's company, and

I ' '11

DNK, 1770.

June, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

:yi

the gentlemen on board, tliat nlthoiigh in the midst of our dii-trcss every one seemed to liavo
a just sense of his danger, yet no ])assionato exelamations or frantic gestures were to be heard
or seen; everyone appeared to havo the perfect ])()sses8i()n of his mind; and everyone
exerted himself to the uttermost, with a quiet and patient perseverance, equally distant from
the tumultuous violence of terror, and the gloomy inactivity of despair. In tlio mean time,
having light airs at E.S.E., we got up the main-top-mast and main-yard, and kept edging
in for tiic land, till about six o'clock in the evening, when wo came to an anchor in seventeen
fathom water, at the distance of seven leagues from the shore, and one from the lodgo of
rocks upon which wo had struck.

This ledge or shoal lies in latitude hi" 45' S., and between six and seven leagues from the
main. It is not, however, the only slioal on this part of the coast, especially to the north-
ward ; and at this time wo saw one to the southward, the tail of which wo passed over,
when we had uneven soundings about two hours before we struck. A part of this shoal is
always above water, and has the appearance of white sand : a i)art also of that upon which
we had lain is dry at low water, and in that place consists of sandstones ; but all the rest of
it is a coral rock.

While we lay at anchor for the night, wc found that the ship made about fifteen inches
water an hour, from which no immediate danger was to be apprehended ; and at six o'clock
in the morning, we weiglied and stood to the N.W., still edging in for the land with a gentle
breeze at S.S.E. At nine wo passed close without two small islands that lie in latitude
15" 41' S., and about four leagues from the main : to reach these islands had, in the height
of our distress, been the object of our hope, or perhaps rather of our wishes, and therefore I
called them Hope Islanrs. At noon wo were about three leagues from tho land, and in
latitude 15" 37' S. ; the northernmost part of tho main in sight bore N. 30 W. ; and Hope
Islands extended from S. 30 E. to S. 40 E. In this situaticm wc had twelve fathon) water,
and several sand-banks without us. At this time the leak had not increased ; but that wo
might be prepared for all events, we got the sail ready for another fothering. In tho after-
noon, having a gentle breeze at S.E. by E., I sent out the master with two boats, as well to
sound ahead of tlie ship, as to look out for a harbour where we might repair our defects, and
put the ship in a proper trim. At three o"'clock, wc saw an opening that had tho appearance
of a harbour, and stood off and on while the boats examined it ; but they soon found that
there was not depth of water in it sufficient for the ship. When it was near sunset, there
being many shoals about us, we anchored in four fathom, at the distance of about two miles
from the shore, the land extending from N. | E. to S. by E. i E. The pinnace was still
out with one of the mates ; but at nine o'clock she returned, and reported, that about two
leagues to leeward she had discovered just such a harbour as we wanted, in which there was
a sufficient rise of water, and every other convenience that could be desired, cither for laying
the ship ashore, or heaving her down.

In consequence of this information, I weighed at six o'clock in the morning, and having
sent two boats ahead, to lie upon the shoals that we saw in our way, we ran down to tho
place ; but notwithstanding our precaution, we were once in three fathom water. As soon
as these shoals were passed, I sent the boats to lie in the channel that led to the harbour,
and by this time it began to blow. It was happy for us that a place of refuge was at hand ;
for we soon found that the ship would not work, having twice missed stays : our situation,
however, though it might have been much worse, was not without danger ; we were entangled
among shoals, and I had great reason to fear being driven to leeward, before the boats could
place themselves so as to prescribe our course. I therefore anchored in four fathom, about a
mile from the shore, and then made the signal for the boats to come on board. When this
was done, I went myself and buoyed the channel, which I found very narrow ; the harbour
also I found smaller than I expected, but most excellently adapted to our purpose j and it is
remarkable, that in the whole course of our voyage we had seen no place which, in our
present circumstances, could have afforded us the same relief. At noon, our latitude was
15° 26' S. During all the rest of this day, and the whole night, it blew too fresh for us to
venture from our anchor and run into the harbour ; and for our farther security, we got down
tho topgallant yards, unbent the mainsail and some of the small sails ; got down tho fore-

m i

1 1

ill -J

•232

COOKS FIllST VOVACJE ROUND THE WOULD.

Jl'NK, 1770.

t(ipzn11<int-nin<>l, nnJ tlic jib-boom, and npritsnil, witli a view to lighton tlic sbip forwnnid
ns iniicb .18 possible, in order to conio at bcr leak, wbicb wc supposed to bo soincwhcru in tliat
part ; for in all tbe joy of our unexpected deliverance, wc bad not forgot tbat at tbis time
tliero was notliing but a lock of wool between us and destruction. Tbo gale continuiiii;, wo
kept our station all tbo latli. On the lOtli, it waH soniewliat more moderate ; and about six
tf'clock in tbe morning, we bovo the cable short, with a design to get under sail, but wcro
obliged to desist, and veer it out again. It is retiiarkablo that the sea-breew, which blow
fresh wlien we anchored, continued to do so almost every day while we stayed hero ; it was
calm only while we were upon the rock, except once ; and even the gale that afterwards
wafted us to the shore, would then certainly have beaten us to pieces. In the evening of
the preceding day, wc bad observed a fire near the beach over against us ; and as it would
be ncces?*ary for us to stay some time in this place, wo were n«t without hope of making an
acquaintance with the people. We saw more fires upon the hills to-day, and with our glasses
discovered four Indians going along the shore, who 8toi>i)ed and made two fires ; but for
what purpose it was impossible we shotild guess.

The scurvy now began to make its ai)pearancc among us, with many formidable sym-
ptoms. Our poor Indian, Tui)ia, who had some time before complained that his gums were
sore and swelled, and who had taken plentifully of our lemon juice by the surgeon's direc-
tion, had now livid spots upon his legs, and other indubitable testimonies that the disease
had made a rapid progress, notwithstanding all our remedies, among which the bark hac'
been liberally administered. Mr. Green, our astronomer, was also declining ; and these,
among other circumstances, embittered the delay which prevented our going ashore.

In the morning of the 17th, though the wind was still fresh, we ventured to weigh, and
push in for the harbour ; but in doing tbis wo twice ran the ship aground : the first time
she went off without any trouble, but the second time she stuck fast. We now got down the
fore-yard, fore-top-masts, and booms, and taking them overboard, made a raft of them along-
side of the ship. The tide w^as happily rising, and about one o'clock in the afternoon she
floated. Wc soon w^arped her into the harbour, and having moored her alongside of a
steep beach to the south, w^c got the anchors, cables, and all the hawsers on shore before
iiiyht.

J-

CHAPTER IV. — TltANSACTIONS WHILE THE SHIP WAS HEFITTINa IN ENDEAVOWR RIVER : A
DESCRIPTION OP THE ADJACENT COUNTRY, ITS INIIAUITANTS, AND PRODUCTIONS.

In the morning of 3Ionday the 18tli, a stage was made from the ship to the shore, which
was so bold that she floated at twenty feet distance : two tents were also set up, one for the
sick, and the other for stores and provisions, which were landed in the course of the day.
We also landed all the eiujity water-casks, and part of the stores. As soon as the tent for
the sick was got ready for their reception, they were sent ashore to the number of eight or
nine, and the boat was despatched to haul the seine, in hopes of procuring some fish for their
refreshment ; but she returned without success. In the mean time, I climbed one of the
highest hills among those that overlooked tho harbour, which aSbrded by no means a com-
fortable prospect : the lowland near tho river is wholly overrun with mangroves, among
which the salt-water flows every tide ; and the highland appeared to be everywhere stony
and barren. In the mean time, Mr. Banks had also taken a walk up the country, and met
with tbe frames of several old Indian houses, and places where they had dressed shell-fish ;
but they seemed not to have been frequented for some months. Tupia, who had employed
himself in angling, and lived entirely upon what he caught, recovered in a surprising degree ;
but i\Ir. Green still continued to be extremely ill.

The next morning I got the four remaining guns out of the hold, and mounted them upon
the quarter-deck ; I also got a spare anchor and anchor-stock ashore, and the remaining part
of the stores and ballast that were in the hold ; set iip the smith's forge, and employed the
armourer and his mate tonsake nails and other necessaries for the repair of the ship. In tlio
afternoon, all the officers' stores and the groimd tier of water were got out ; so that nothing
remained in the fore and main hold, but tiie coals, and a small quantity of stone ballast. This

JtNE, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAOE ROUND THE WORi.I).

2:33

ilay Mr. rtanks croHscil tlio river to talti* a viow of tlic country on tlio other side : lie found
it consiHt priiici|i!illy of sund liills, where he saw some Iiivli.m liousen, whicli apj)eared to liave
been very lately inhabited. In this walk, he met with vast flocks of ;)igeon8 and crows : of
the pigeons, which were exceedingly beautiful, ho shot several ; but the crows, which were
exactly like those in Kngland, were so shy tliat he could not get within reach of them.

On the 2(Hh, we landed the powder, and got out the stone ballast and >V(jod, w hicli brought
the ship's draught of water to eight feet t.i: inches forward, and thirteen feet ahaft ; and thi-',
I thought, with the dirt'erence tiiat would he mad;' by triiiiining the coals aft, would be suHi-
cient ; for .1 found that the water rose and fell ijcrjundicularly eight feet at the si)ring-title8 :
but as soon as the coals were trimmed from over tic leak, wo could hear the water rush in
a little ahaft the foremast, about three feet from the keel : this determined mo to clear tlio
hold entirely. This evening ^Ir. Banks observed that in matiy i)art3 of the inlet there were
large quantities of pumice stones, which lay at a considerable distance above high-water mark ;
whither they might have been carried either by the freshes or extraordinary high tides, for
there could be no doubt but that they came from the sea.

Tho next morning wc went early to work, and by four o'clock in tho afternoon had got
out all the coals, cast the moorings loose, and warjjcd tho ship a little higher up the harbour,
to a place which I thought most convenient for laying her ashore, in order to stop the leak.
Her draught of water forward was now seven feet nine inches, and abaft thirteen feet six
inches. At eight o'clock, it being high-water, I hauled her bow close ashore ; but kept her
stern afloat, because I was afraid of neaping her : it was however necessary to lay the wholo
of her as near tho ground as possible.

At two o'clock in tho morning of the 22d, the tide left her, and gave us an opportunity
to examine tho leak, which wo ibund to be at her floor heads, a little before the starboard
fore-chains. In this place the rocks had made their way through four planks, and even into
tho timbers ; three more ])lanks were much damaged, and tho appearance of these breaches
was very extraordinary : there was not a splinter to bo seen, but all was as smooth as if the
wholo had been cut away by an instrument : the timbers in this place were happily very
close, and if they bad not, it would have been absolutely impossible to have saved the ship.
But after all, her preservation depended upon a circumstance still more remarkable : one of
the holes, which was big enough to have sunk us, if we had had eight pumps instead of four,
and been able to keep them incessantly going, was in great measure plugged up by a frag-
ment of the rock, which, after having made the wound, was left sticking in it ; so that the
water, which at flrst had gained upon our pumps, was what canio in at the interstices, be-
tween the stone and the edges of tho hole that received it, "Wo found also several pieces of
tho fothering, which had made their way between i^\e timbers, and in a great measure
stopped those parts of the leak which the stone had leH open. Upon further examination,
we found that, besides the leak, considerable damage had been done to the bottom : great
nart of tho sheathing was gone from under tho larboard bow ; a considerable part of tho
false keel was also wanting ; and these indeed we had seen swim away in fragments from
the vessel, while she lay beating against the rock : the remainder of it was in so shattered a
condition that it had better have been gone ; and the fore foot and main keel were also
damaged, but not so as to produce any immediate danger : what damage she might have
received abaft could not yet be exactly known, but wc had reason to think it was not much,
as but little water made its way into her bottom, while the tide kept below the leak which
has already been described. By nine o'clock in the morning the carpenters got to work upon
her, while tho smiths were busy in making bolts and nails. In the mean time, some of tho
people were sent on the other side of the water to shoot pigeons for the sick, who at their
return reported that they had seen an animal as large as a greyhound, of a slender make,
a mouse colour, and extremely swift ; they discovered also many Indian houses, and a fine
stream of fresh water.

The next morning, I sent a boat to haul the seine ; but at noon it returned with only
three fish, and yet we saw them in plenty leaping about the harbour. This day the car-
penter finished the repairs that were necessary on the starboard side ; and at nine o'clock in
tho evening, we heeled tho ship the other way, and hauled her off about two feet for fear of

'^'

^!H

ll'

Ml
(

I'lf

1^
, mi.

1 ?'

234

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE AVORLD.

June, 1770.

neaping. This day almost everybody had sccn"tlio animal which the pigeon-shooters had
brought an account of the day before ; and one of the seamen, who had been rambling in tho
woi'dtj, told us at his return, tliat he verily believed he had seen tho devil : we naturally
inquired in what form he had appeared, and his answer was in so singular a style that I
shall set down his owr words : " He was," says John, " as largo as a one-gallon keg, and
very like it , he had horns and wings, yet he crept so slowly through tho grass, that if I
bad not been afeard I might have touched him." This formidable apparition we afterwards
discovered to have been a bat ; and tho bats here must be acknowledged to have a fright-
ful appearance, for they are nearly black, cand full as large as a partridge j tliey have indeed
no horns, but tho fancy of a man who thought he saw the devil might casi'" supply tliat defect.

Early on tho 24th, tho carpenters began to repair the sheatliing imtler the larboard bow,
where we found two planks cut about half through ; and in tlie mean time I sent a party
of men, imder the direction of Mr. Gore, in search of refreshments for the sick : this party
returned about noon, with a few ))alm cabbages, and a bunch or two of wild plantain ; tho
])lantains were the smallest I had ever seen, and the pulp, though it wf>s well tasked, v/as
full of small stones. As I was walking this morning at a little distance from tlie ship, I
saw, myself, one of tho animals which had been so often described : it was of a light mouse
colour, and in size and shape very much resembling a greyhound ; it had a long tail also,
which it carried like a greyhound ; and I should have taken it for a wild dog, if, instead of
running, it had not leapt like a hare or deer: its legs were said to be very slender, and tlie
]>rint of its foot to be like that of a goat ; but where I saw it, tho grass was so high that
the legs were concealed, and the ground was too hard to receive the track. Mr. Banks also
had an impeiicct view of this animal, and was of opinion that its species was hitherto
imknown.

After tho ship was hauled ashore, all tho water that came into her of course went back-
wards; so that although she was dry forwards, she had nine feet water abaft : as in this
part therefore her bottom could not be examined on the inside, I took tho advantage of the
tide being out this evening to get the master and two of the men to go under her, and
examine her whole larboard side without, '''hey found the sheathing gone about the floor-
heads abreast of tho mainmast, and part of a plank a little damaged ; but all agreed that
she had received no other material injury. The loss of her sheatliing alone was a great
misfortune, as tho worm would now be let into her 1 lUom, which might expose us to great
inconvenience and danger; but as I knew no remedy for the mischief but heaving her down,
which would be a work of immense labour and long time, if practicable at all in our present
situation, I was obliged to be content. The carpenters, liowever, continued to work under
her bottom in the evening till tliey were prevented by the tidy ; the morning tide did not
ebb out far enough to permit them to work at all, for we had cnly one tolerable high and
low tide in four-and-twunty Imurs, as indeed wo had experienced when wo lay upon the rock.
Tlio position of the ship, whicli threw the water in her abaft, was yiry uear depriving the
world of all the knowledge wliidi IMr. Hanks iiad endured so nincli labour, and so miny
risks, to procure ; for lie had removed tho curious collection of plants whi'.ii he had mail')
(utriiig the wliule voyage, into the bread-room, which lies in tlie after-po'-. of the ship, as a
])lace of the greatest sociirity ; and nobody iiaving thought of t'.io 'liiiiger to which laying
lier head so much higher than the stern would expose thein, the)' were tl'is day found und-.r
water. Most of them however were, by indefatigable care and attention, restored to a state
of preservation, but some were entirely spoilt and destroyed.

The 2r)th was employed in filling water and overhauling the riggina: ; and at low water
the carpenters finished the repairs under the larboard bow, and every otlier place wliicii the
tide would permit them to come s.t : some casks were then lashed und' r her bows to facili-
tate her floating ; and at night, >\hen it was high water, we endeavoured to heave her oil",
but without success, for some of th casks that were lashed to her gave way.

The morning of the 2Gth was emi)loyed in getting more casks ready for the same purpose,
and in the afternoon we lashed no less than eight-and-tiiirty under the ship's bottom, but to
our great mortification these also proved ijiefl'eotual, .-".nd wc found ourselves ''educed to the
necessity of waiting till the next spring-tide.

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COOK'S FIRST VOVAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

235

This day, some of our gentlemen who had made an cxcnmon into the woods, brouglit
homo the leaves of a plant, which was thought to be the same that in the "West Indies is
calh'd cocco; but upon trial, the roots proved too acrid to be eaten; the leaves however were
little inferior to spinage. In the place wlare these plants were gjtiiered, grew plenty of
the cabbage trees which have occasionally been mentioned before, a kind of wild plantain,
the fruit of which was so full of stones as scarcely to be eatable ; another fruit was also found
about the size of a small golden l)ippiu, but flatter, and of a deep purple colour : when first
gathered from the tree, it wag very hard and disagreeable, but after being kept a few days
became soft, and tasted very nuicii like an indift'erent damson.

The next morning wo began to move some of the weight from the after-part of the ship
forward, to ease her ; in the mean time the armourer continued to work at the forge, the
carpenter was busy in calking the ship, and the men employed in filling water and over-
hiuling the rigging: in the forenoon, I went myself in the pinnace up the harbour, and
made several hauls witli the seine, but caught only between twenty and thirty fish, which
Were given to the sick and convalescent.

On the 2{>ih, Mr. Banks went with some of the seamen up the country, to show them
the plant which in the West Indies is called Indian kale, and which served us for greens.
Tupia had much nnhorated the root of the coceos, by giving them a long dressinn' in his
country oven; but they were so small that we did not think them an object for the ship.
In tlieir walk they found one tree which had been notched for the convenience of clind>iiig
it, in the same manner with those we had seen in Botany Bay : they saw also many nests
of white ants, which resemble those of the East Indies, the most pernicious insects in the
world. The nests were of a pyramidical figure, from a few inches to six feet high, and very
much resembled the stones in England which nro said to be monuments of the Druids.
Mr. Gore, who was also this day four or five miles up the country, reported that he had
seen the footsteps of men, and tracked animals of three or four diflerent sorts, but had not
been fortunate enough to sec either man or beast.

At two o'clock in the morning of the 29th, I observed, in conj)mction with ]\Ir. Green,
an emersion of Jupiter's first satellite ; the time here was 2' 18' .'»3', which gave the longi-
tude of this place 214^ 42' 30" W. : its latitude is 15^ 26' S. At break of day, I sent tlie
boat out again with the seine, and, in the afternoon it returned with as much fish as enabled
me to give every man a pound and a half. One of my midshipmen, an American, who was
this day abroad with his gur«, reported that he had seen a wolf, exactly like those which ho
had been used to see in his own country, and that he had shot at it, but did not kill it*.

The next morning, encouraged by the success of the day before, I s^nt the boat af^ain to
haul the seine, and another party to gather greens : I sent also some of the young gentlemen
to take a plan of the harbour, and went myself upon a hill, which lies over the south point,
to take a view of the sea. At this time it was low watei", and I saw, with great concern,
innumerable sandbanks and shoals lying all along the coast in every direction. The inner-
most lay about three or four miles from the shore, th.e outermost extended as far as I could
see with my glass, and many of tlicui did but jv.st rise above water. Tlure was some
appear; ce of a ])assage to the northward, aiul I had no hope of getting clear but in tliat
direction, for, as the wind blows constantly from the S. E., it would have been diflleult, if
not injpoHHJble, to return back to the southward.

Mr. Gore n'ported, that he had this day seen two animals like dogs, of a straw colour,
that they ran like a hare, and were about the same size. In the afternoon, the people
returned from hauling tlie seine, with still better success than before, for I was now able to
distribut" two pounds and a half to each man : the greens that had iKvn gathered I ordered
to be boiled among the pease, and they made an excellent mess, which, with two copious
sii])])lies of fish, aftorded us unspeakable refreshment.

The next day, July the 1st, being iSunday, everybody had liberty to go ashoi-e, except

• Tliis \v;\s pidlmbly a "diiiffo," or iiaiivo doj, tlio Miiiie Finjiilm' iiistancos of wliicli nro rolatcd by Mr. Hiii-

IVfirrai/iil iii' ihv i\hit\i^\ui}!i,'C<inis ^luftKilunice, r>e;n.) net I, in his WaiuKiiiii;* in N'l'W Somli Wulos; whicli may

as no pjic'cics (> ' the wolf is lonml thionghoiit the country, account fur tiit bad snctess of liiu Aiurricaii iiiaiKsniaii. —

The dingo it icmarkable for its cMicme tciuicify of life, En.

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July, 1770.

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one from pjicli mess, who were again sent out with the seine. The seine was again equally
successful, and the people who went up the country gave an account of having seen several
animals, though none of tlieni were to be caught. They saw a fire also about a mile up the
river, and JMr. Gore, the second lieutenant, picked up the husk of a cocoa-nut, which had
been cast upon the be.acli, and was full of barnacles : this probably u'iglit come from some
island to windward, perhaps from the Terra del Espirito Saniv A Quirud, as we were now
in the latitude where it is said to lie*. This day the thermometer in the ahaile rose to 87»
wliich was higher than it had been on any day since we canio upon this coast.

I'^arly the next morning, I sent the master in the pinnace out of the harbour, to sound
about the shoals in the offing, and look for channel to the northward : at this time we had
a breeze from the land, which continued till about nine o'clock, and was the first wo had
since our coming into the river. At low water we lashed some empty casks under the ship's
bows, having some hope that, as the tides were rising, she would float the next high water.
AVe still continued to fish witii great success, and at high water we again attemjited to heave
the ship off, but our utmost efforts were still inefl'ectual.

The next day at noon, the master returned, and reported, that he had found a passage
out to sea between tl\e shoals, and described its situation. The slioals, he said, consisted of
coral rocks, many of which were dry at low water, and upon one of which he had been
ashore. He found here some cockles of so enormous a size, that one of them was more than
two men could eat, and a great variety of other shell-fish, of which he Ijrought us a plentiful
supply : in the evening, he had also landed in a bay about three leagues to the northward
of our station, where he disturbed .some of the natives who were at supper : they all fled
with the greatest precipitation at his approach, leaving some fresh sea eggs, and a firo ready
kindled behind them, but there was neither house nor hovel near the })lace. We observed,
that although the shoals that lie just within sight of the coast abound with shell-fish, which
may be easily caught at low water, yet we saw no such shells about the fireplaces on shore.
This day an alligator was seen to swim about the ship for some time, and at high water v/o
made another effort to float her, which happily succeeded : we found however that by lying
so long with her head aground ?,nd her stem afloat, she had sprung a plank between decks,
abreast of the main chains, so that it was become necessary to lay her ashore again.

The next morning was employed in trimming her upon an even keel, and in the after-
noon, having warped her over, and waited for high-water, we laid her ashore on the sand-
bank on tlie south side of the river, for the damage she had received already from the great
descent of the ground n:ade me afraid to lay her broadside to the shore iu lie same ])lace
from which wo had just floated her. I was now very desirous to make another trial to
come at her bottom, where the sheathing had been rubbed off; but though she had scarcely
four feet water under lier when the tide was out, yet that part was not dry.

On the 5th, I got one of the carpenter's crew, a man in whom I could confide, to go down
again to the ship''s bottom, and examine the i)lace. lie reported, that tlii'ee streaks of the
sheathing, about eight feet long, were wanting, and that the main plank had been a little
rubbed ; this account ]>erfectiy agreed with tlie report of tiie master, and others, who had
been under her bottom before : I had the comfort however to find the carpenter of opinion
that this would be of little consequence, and therefore the other damage being repaired, she
was again floated at high-water, and moored alongside the beach, where the stores had
lieen deposited ; we then went to work to take the stores on board, and put her in a condi-
tion for the sea. This day, JMr. Banks crossed to the other side of the harbour, where, as
ho walked along a sandy beach, he found innumerable fruits, and many of them such as no
plants which he had discovered in this country produced : among others witc some cocoa-
nut.-i, ulilch Tui)ia i^aid had been opened by a kind of crab, which from his description we
judged to be the same that the Dutch call Hears Kr/tfjbc, and wliich we !iad not seen in
these seas. All the vegetable substances which he found in this place were encrusted with

• Ciptiiiii Kinj; remarks iipmi .liis passrigo : " From srori by lis (a* Capo riivclai/^l) renders, |i,)\vevor, even

tlie pievailiiiji winds, it would appear more likely to liiivo tliis concliiMon donlitfiil. Capunj l''linilirs also found one

dril'tcd from .New C'liledonia, wliicli island was at lliat lime as far to tlic soiitli as Slio.ilwatcr B.iy."
uiikiioNva to Couk : the fresh a|ipcaruQC'c x>f the eocoa-niit

Jl'I.Y, 1770,

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

237

marine productions, and covered with barnacles ; a sure sign that tiiey must have como far
by sea, and, as the trade- wind blows riglit upon the shore, probably from Terra del Espirito
Santo, which has been mentioned already.

The next morning, Mv. Banks, with Lieutenant Gore, and three men, set out in a small
boat up the river, with a view to spend two or three days in an excursion, to examine the
country, and kill some of the animals which had been so often seen at a distance.

On the 7th, I sent the master again out to sound about the shoals, the account which he
had brought mo of the chiinnel being by no means satisfactory; and we spent the remainder
of this day, and the morning of the next, in fishing, and other necessary occupations.

About four o'clock in the afternoon, ]\Ir. Banks and his party returned, and gave us an
account of their expedition. Having proceeded about three leagues among swamps and
mangroves, they went ui> into the country, which tiiey found to differ but little from what
they had seen before : they pursued their course therefore up the river, winch at leno'th was
contracted into a narrow channel, and was bounded, not by swamps .and mangroves, but by
steep banks, that were covered with trees of a most beautiful verdure, among wl)ich was
that which in the West Indies is called Mohoe, or the bark-tree, the Ilibiscus tUinceus ; the
land within was in general low, and had a thick covering of long grass : the soil sc(!med to
be such as promised great fertility, to any who should plant and improve it. In the course
of the day, Tupia saw an animal, which, by his description, Mr. Bank? judged to be a wolf :
tltey also saw three other animals, but could neither catch n.r kill one of them, and a kind
of hat, as large as a partridge, but this also eluded all tlieir diligence and skill. At night,
they took up their lodging close to the banks of the river, and made a fire, but the mos-
quitoes swarmed about them in sucli numijers, that tlu-ir quarters wore almost untenable ;
they followed them into the smoke, and almost intotlie iire, which, hot as the climate was,
they could better endure than the stings (jf these insects, which were an intol('ral)le torment.
The fire, the flics, and the want of a better bed than the ground, rendered the night
extremely uncomfortable, so that tliey passed it. not in sleep, but in restless wishes for the
return of day. With the first dawn they set out in search of game, and in a wa'k of many
miles they saw four animals of the same kind, two of which ^Ir. Banks'^s greyhound fairly
chased, but they threw him out at a great distance, by leaping over tlie long thick grass,
which prevented his running : this animal was observed, not to run upon four legs, but to
bound or hop forward upon two, like the Jwlioa, or Mus JacuJiis. About noon, they
returned to tiie boat, and again proceeded up the river, which was soon contracted into a
fresh-water itrook, where, however, the tide rose to a considerable heifrht : as evening
approacl'.ed, it became low- water, and it was then .so shallow that they were obliged to get
out of the boat and drag her along, till tliey could find a jdace in which they might, with
some hope of rest, pass the right. Such a place at length offered, and wliile they were
petting tlie thmgs out of the b' at, thej' observed a snu)ke at the distance of about a furlong :
as tliey did not doubt but t lat some of tiie natives, with whom they iiad .so long and
earnestlj' de.-ired to become personally acquainted, were about the fire, three of the party
went immcd ately towards it, ho[)ing that sn small a number would not pat ti\em to Might :
when they en me up to the place, however, they found it deserted, and tluroforc they con-
jectured, thn+. before they had discovered the Indians, the Indians had discovered them,
Tliey found tlie f';'"'^ siill burning, in the hollow of an old tree tliat was become touchwood,
and several blanches of trees newly broken down, with wliich children appeared to have
been playing : they observed also many footsteps upon the sand, below high-water mark,
which were certain indications thnt the Indians had l.ie<>n recently upcdi the ^-pot. Se'cial
houses were found at a little distance, and some ovens dpg in the ground, in the same u" aimer
as those of Otaheite, in whicJi victuals apjicared to have been dressed since the morning, and
scattered about them lay some sh'-Ms of a kind of clam, and i-ome f.-agments of roots, tiie
refuse of the meal. After regr<.'tti(ig their disajipointment, tiiey repaired to their quartei.-.,
which was a broad sandbank, under the slielter of abusli. Their beds were plantain leaves,
which they s])nad upon the sand, and wliich \vere as soft as a mattress ; tlicir clo.aks served
them for bed-clothes, and some Luik-Iks of gri.ss fur pillows : with these accoinmodaticns
they hoped to ,'^'iss a better night than the last, especially as, to their great comfort, not

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Ji'iA', 1770.

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a mosquito M'as to be seen. Here then tliey lay down, and, such is tlie force of habit, they
resigned themselves to sleep, without once rcHccting upon the probability and danger of
being found by the Indians in that situation. If this appears strange, let us for a moment
reflect, that every danger, and every calamity, after a time, becomes familiar, and loses its
effect upon the mind. If it were possible that a man should first be made acquainted with
his mortality, or even with the inevitable debility and infirmities of old age, when his
understanding had arrived at its full strength, and lifo was endeared by the enjoyments of
youth, and vigour, and health, with what an agony of terror and distress would the intelli-
gence be received ! yet, being gradually acquainted with these mournful truths, by insen-
sible degrees, we scarce know when, they lose all their force, and we think no more of the
approach of old ago and death, than those w^anderers of an unknown desert did of a less
obvious and certain evil, — the approach of the native savages, at a time when tlicy must have
fallen an easy prey to their malice or their fears. And it is remarkable, that the greater
part of those who have been condemned to sufter a violent death, have slept the night imme-
diately preceding their execution, though there is perhaps no instance of a person accused of
a capital crime having slept the first night of his confinement. Thus is the evil of lifo in
some degree a remedy for itself, and though every man at twenty deprecates fourscore,
almost every man is as tenacious of life at fourscore as at twenty ; and if he does no* sutler
under any painful disorder, loses as little of the comfoi'ts that remain by reflecting that ho
is upon the brink of the grave, where the earth already crumbles under his feet, as he did of
the pleasures of his better days, when his dissolution, though certain, was supposed to be at
a distance.

Our travellers having slept, without once awaking till the morning, examined the river,
and finding tlie tide favoured their return, and the country promised nothing worthy of a
farther search, they re-embarked in their boat, and made the best of their way to the ship.
Soon after the arrival of this party, the master also returned, having been seven leagues
out to sea ; and ho was now of opinion that there was no getting out where before he
thought there had been a passage. His expedition, however, was by no means without its
advantage ; for having been a second time upon the rock where he had seen the largo cockles,
ho met with a great number of turtle, tliree of which he caught, that together weighed
seven hundred and ninety-one pounds, though he had no better instrument than a boat-hook.
The next morning, therefore. ^ sent him out again, with proper instruments for takiuf"
tiicni, and Mr. Banks wcr.L -.vitli him ; hut t!ie success did not at all answer our expectations ;
for, by the unaccountable conduct of the officer, not a single turtle was taken, nor coidd ho
be persuaded to return : Mr. Banks, however, wont ashore uj)on the reef, where he saw several
of the large cockles, and having collected many shells and marine productions, he returned
at eleven o'clock at night in his own small boat, the master still continuing with the larf'c one
upon the rock. In the afternoon, seven or eight of the natives had appeared on the south
side of the river, and two of tliom came down to the sandy point opposite to the ship ; but
upon seeing me put oft' in a boat to speak with them, they all ran away with the greatest
precipitation.

As the master continued absent with tlie boat ail night, I was forced to send the second
lieutenant for him, early the next morning in tbe yawl ; and soon after four of the natives
appeared upon the sandy point, on the north side of the river, having with them a s rirll
wooden canoe, with out-riggers : they seemed for some time to he busily employed in strii. ,i(r
fish : some of our people were for going over to them in a boat ; but this I would bv no
means permit, repeated experience having convinced mo that it was more likely to nrevent
than procure an interview. I was dotormincd to try what could be done b- ^ contrary
method, and accordingly let tliem alone, without appearintr to take the least r^^ice of them :
this succeeded so well, tli.atat length two of them came in tliecimoe witliin a .iusket-shot of
the ship, and there talked a great deal in a very loud tone : we understood nothing that
tliey said, and therefore could answer their harangue only by sJionting, and making aii tlio
signs of invitation and kindness^ that we could devise. During this conference they canio
insensibly nearer atKl nearer, holding up their lances, not in a threatening manner, ;iut as if
to intimate that if we offered them any injury, they had wea|^,ons to revenge it When they

JCLY, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

289

were almost alongside of us, wo threw tlicm some clotli, nails, beads, paper, and other trifles,
which they received without the least appearance of satisfaction : at last one of the people
hapj)ened to throw them a small fish ; at tliis they expressed the greatest joy imaginable,
and intimating by signs that they would fetch their companions, immediately jiaddled away
towards the shore. In the mean time, some of our people, and among tliem Tu])ia, landed
on the opposite side of the river : the canoe, with all the four Indians, very soon returned to
the ship, and came quite alongside, without expressing any fear or distrust. We distributed
some more presents among them, and soon after they left us, and landed on the same side of
the river where our j)eoplc had gone ashore : every man carried in his hand two lances, and
a stick, which is used in throwing them, and advanced to the place where Tupia and tho
rest of our people were sitting. Tupia soon prevailed upon them to lay down their arms,
and come forward without them : he then made signs that they should sit down by him,
with which they complied, and seemed to be under no apprehension or constraint : several
more of us then going ashore, they expressed some jealousy lest we should get between tliem
and their arms ; we took care, however, to show them that we had no such intention, and
having joined them, we made them some more presents, as a fartlier testimony of our good-
will, and our desire to obtain tlieirs. Wo continued together, with the utmost cordiality, till
dinner-time, and then giving them to understand that we were going to eat, we invited them
by signs to go with us : this, however, they declined, and as soon as we loft them, they
went away in their canoe. One of these men was somewhat above the middle age, tho
otlier three were young ; they were in general of the common stature, but their limbs were
remarkably small ; their skin was of the colour of wood-soot, or wliat would be called a
dark chocolate colour ; their hair was black, but not woolly ; it was short cropped, in some
lank, and in others curled. Dampier says that the people whom he saw on tlie western
nnast of this country wanted two of their fore teeth, but these had no such defect : some
part of their bodies had been painted red, and the upper lip and breast of one of them was
painted with streaks of white, which he called Carhunda * ; their features were far from
disagreeable, their eyes were lively, and their teeth even and white ; tlieir voices were soi
and tunable, and tliey repeated many words after us with great fivcility. In the night,
3Ir. Gore and tho master returned with the long-boat, and brought one turtle ai 1 a few
shell-fish. The yawl had been left upon the shoal with six men, to make a farther trial for
turtle.

The next morninfr we had another visit from four of the natives ; three of tliem had been
witli us before, but the fourth was a stranger, whose name, as wc learnt from his companions
Mho introduced him, was Yaparico. This gentleman was distinguished by an ornament
of a very striking appearance ; it was the bono of a bird, nearly as thick as a man's finger,
and five or six inches long, which he had thrust into a hole, made in the gristle thai
divides the nostrils ; of this we had seen one instance, and only one, in New Zor.land ; but,
upon examination, wo found that among all those people this part of the nose was perforated,
to receive an ornament of the same kind : they had also holes in their ears, tliougli iiotliing
was then hanging to tliem, and had bracelets upon the up])er part of their arms, made of
platted hair, so that, like the inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, they scorn to be fond of
ornament, though tiiey are absolutely without apparel ; and one of them, to whom 1 had
given part of an old shirt, instead of tlirowing it over any jiart of his body, tied it as a fillet
round \m lioad. Th< y broiiglit with them a fish, which tliey gave us, as wo supposed, in
return for the fish that uo liad given theui the day befor>:. They seemed to be much
pleased, and in no haste to leave us ; but seeing some of our inulemen examine their canoe
with \iiiu\i euriosity and attention, they were alarmed, and jumping immediately into it,
paddled away without speaking a word.

About two tlie next moi/iiiig, the yawl, which had been left upon the shoal, returned with

n'm

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• Tlii» niodeiif painting is a sign of mourning. The nrr Imsthe origin of tlic pm«»icc been iicroiinled for. It

Jiriii'di (' of BtriUing out one or more of the front tcetli on is |irobul)ly regiirileil aa a inopitiatoiy eacritito to somo

.iriiviiitf at llio age of pnl)erty, and being mlniitled into en|u'iiiiitiinil power, ^\bose evil inthienee is dreiided ; siiili

llie society of men, is still ]ircvalenl among many of the as their Uuckcc-LuvKcc, or devil. devil, a fpirit tliey are

liihes, iml decs not ap|:cur ever to Iiave been nniveiiial, in great fear of, — V.d.

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three turtles and a large skate. As it seemed now probable tliat this fishery might be
prosecuted with advantage, I sent her out again after breakfast, for a further supply. Soon
after, tlireo Indians ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were so well pleased with their
reception, that one of them went with the canoe to fetch two others whom we had never
seen : when he returned, ho introduced the strangers by name, a ceremony which, upon sucli
occasions, was never omitted. As they had received the fish that was thrown into their
canoe, when they first approached the sliip, with so much pleasure, some fish was ofFored to
them now, and we were greatly surprised to see tliat it was received with the greatest
indifference : they made signs, however, to some of the peojile that they should dress it for
tliem, which was immediately done ; but after eating a little of it, they threw the rest to
Mr. Banks's dog. They staid with us all the forenoon, but would never venture above
twenty yards from their canoe. Wo now perceived that tlie colour of their akin was not so
dark as it appeared, what we had taken for their complexion being the efFects of dirt and
smoke, in which we imagined they contrived to sleep, notwithstanding the heat of the
climate, as the only means in their power to keep off" tlie mosquitoes. Among other things
that we had given tliem when we first saw them were some medals, which we had hung
round their necks by a riband ; and these ribands were so changed by smoke, that we could
not easily distinguish of what colour they had been : this incident led us more narrowly to
examine the colour of their skin. AVhile these people were with us, we saw two others on
the point of land that lay on the opposite side of the river, at the distance of about two
hundred yards, and by our gliisses discovered them to be a woman and a boy ; the w^oman,
like the rest, being stark naked. 'We observed that all of them were remarkably clean-
limbed, and exceedingly active and nimble. One of these strangers had a necklace of shells,
very prettily made, and a bracele*^^ upon his arm, formed of several strings, so as to resemble
what in England is called gymp : both of them had a piece of bark tied over the forehead,
and were disfigured by the bone in the nose. We thought their language more harsh than
that of the islanders in the South Sea, and they were continually repeating the word chercau,
which we imagined to be a term expressing admiration, by the manner in which it was
uttered : they also cried out, when t'.icy saw anything new, cher, tut, tut, tut, tut ! which
probably had a similar signification. Their canoe was not above ten feet long, and very
narrow, but it was fitted with an outrigger, much like those of the islands, thougii in every
respect very much inferior : when it svas in shallow water, they set it, on with poles ; and
when in deep, they worked it with paudles about four feet long: it contained just four
people; so that the people wlio visited ui to-day went away at two turns. Their lances
were like those that we had seen in Botany Bay, except that they had but a single point, which
in some of them was the sting of the ray, and barbed with two or three sharp bones of the
same fish : it was indeed a most terrible weajion, and the instrument which they used in
throwing it seemed to bo formed with more art than any we had seen before. About twelve
o'clock next day the yawl returned with another turtle, and a large sting-ray, and in the
evening was sent out again.

Tiio next morning two of the Indians came on board, but, after a short stay, went along
the shore, and applied themselves with great diligence to the striking of fish. jMr. Gore,
who went out this day with his gun, had the good fortune to kill one of tiie animals which
liad been so much the subject of our speculation : an idea of it will best be conceived by
tlic cut, Kdiiffuroo, without whicli the most accurate verbal description would answer very
little purpose, as it has not similitude enough to any animal already known to admit of
illustration by reference. In form, it is most like the Jerboa, which it also resembles in its
motion, as has been observed already; but it greatly differs in size, the Jerboa not being
larger than a common rat, and this animal, when full grown, being as big as a sheep : this
individual was a young one, much under its full growth, woigliing only thirty-eight pounds.
The liead, neck, and shoulders are very small in proportion to the other parts of tlie
body ; the tail is nearly as long as the body, thick near the rump, and tapering towards
the end : the fore-legs of this individual wi-re only eiglit inches long, and the 1 'nd-legs
two-and-twcnty : its progress is by successive leaps or hops, of a great length, in .an erect
posture ; the fore-legs are kept bent close to the breast, and seemed to be of use only for

1770.

t alonn;
CJore,
wliicli
ivoil by
or very
init of
!S in its
being
: this

July, 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE llOUxXD THE AVOllLl).

digging : the skin is covered with a short fur, of a dark mouse or grey colour, excepting the
licad and cars, which bear a slight resemblance to those of a hare. This animal is called by
the natives Kauyuroo *.

The next day our kanguroo was dressed for dinner, and proved most excellent meat ; wo
might now indeed be said
to fare sumptuously every
day ; for wo had turtle in
great plenty, and wo all
agreed that they were much
better than any we had
tasted in England, which
we imputed to their being
oaten fresh from the sea,
before their natural fat had
been wasted, or their juices
changed by a diet and situ-
ation so different from
what the sea affords them,
as garbage and a tub. Most
of those that we caught
hero were of the kind calli'd
green turtle, and weighed
from two to three hundred
weight, and when these
were killed, they were al-
ways found to be full of
turtle grass, which our na- msc^i mm,.

turalists took to be a kind of Confer ca : two of them wei'c loggcr-hcad.«, the flesh of which
was much less delicious, and in their stomachs nothing was to be found but shells.

In the morning of the 16th, while the people were employed as usual in getting the ship
ready for the sea, I climbed one of the hills on the north side of the river, from which I
had an extensive view of the inland country, and found it agreeably diversified by hills,
valleys, and large plains, which in many places were richly covered with wood. This evening
we observed an emersion of Jupiter's first . ..tellite, which gave 214° 53' 45" of longitude.
The observation which was mala on the 29th of June gave 214° 42' 30", the mean is
214° 48' 7i"» the longitude of this place west of Greenwich.

On the 17th, I sent the master and one of the mates in the pinnace to look for a channel
to the northward ; and I went myself witli Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr into the woods on
the other side of the water. Tupia, who had been thither by himself, rei)ortcd that he had
seen three Indians who had given him some roots about as thick as a man's finger, in shape
not much imlikc a radish, and of a very agreeable taste. Tiiis induced us to go over, hoping
that we should be able to improve our acquaintance with tlie natives ; in a very little time
wo discovered four of them in a canoe, who, as soon as they saw us come ashore, and though
they were all strangers, walked up to us without any signs of suspicion or fear. Two of
tliose had necklaces of shells, which we could not persuade them to part with for anything
we could give them : we presented them, however, with some ijoads, and after a short stay
they departed. We attempted to follow them, hoping that tliey would conduct us to some
place where we should find more of *>hem, and have an opportunity of seeing their women ;
but they made us understand, by signs, that they did not desire our company.

At eight o'clock the next morning, we were visited by several of the natives, who were
now become quite familiar. One of them, at our desire, threw his lance, which was about
ciglit feet long : it flew with a swiftness and steadiness that surprised us, and though it
was never more than four feet from the ground, it entered deeply into a tree at fifty paces'
distance. After this they ventured on board, where I left them, to all appearance nmch
* Tills seems to have been a iiiistaUc. See ttotc piigc 209. — Ed.

I 1

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242

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1770.

' f * : '<■

|i •■

entertained, and wont again with Mr. Banks to take a view of the country ; but chiefly to
indulge an anxious curiosity by looking round us upon the sea, of wliich our wislies almost
persuaded us we iiad formed an idea more disadvantageous than the truth. After having
walked about seven or eight miles along the shore to the northward, wo ascended a very
liigh hill, and were soon convinced that the danger of our situation was at least equal to our
ni)|)rcliensions ; for in whatever direction wo turned our eyes, wo saw rocks and shoals
witliout number, and no passage out to sea but through the winding channels between them,
whioh could not bo navigated witliout the last degree of difliculty and danger. We returned
therefore to the ship, not in better spirits than when wc left it : we found several natives
still on board, and we were told that the turtles, of which we had Jio less than twelve upon
the deck, had fixed tlielr attention more than anything else in the ship.

On the lOtli, in the morning, we were visited by ten of the natives, the greater part from
the other side of the river, where we saw six or seven more, most of them women, and, like
all the rest of the people we had seen in this country, they were stark naked. Our guests
brought with tlieni a greater number of lances than they had ever done before, and having
laid them up in a tree, they set a man and a hoy to watch them : tho rest then came on board,
and we soon perceived that they had determined to get one of our turtle, which was pro-
bably as great a dainty to them as to us. They first asked us by signs to give them one ;
and being refused, they expressed, both by looks and gestures, great disappointment and
anger. At this time we happened to have no victuals dressed, but I ofTered one of them
some biscuit, which he snatched and threw overboard with great disdain. One of them
renewed his request to Mr. Banksj and upon a refusal stamped with his foot, and pushed
him from him in a transport oi resentment and indignation. Having applied by turns to
almost every person who appeared to have any command in the ship, without success, they
suddenly seized two of the turtles and dragged them towards the side of the ship where their
canoe lay : our people soon forced them out of their hands, and replaced them with tho
rest. They would not however relinquish their enterprise, but made several other attempts
of the same kind, in all which being equally disappointed, they suddenly leaped into their
canoe in a rage, and began to paddle towards the shore. At the same time, I went into tho
boat with Sir. Banks and five or six of the ship's crew, and we got ashore before them, where
many more of our people were already engaged in various employments. As soon as they
landed, they seized their arms, and before we were aware of their design, they snatched a
brand from under a pitch-kettle which was boiling, and making a circuit to the windward of
the few things we had on shore, they set fire to the grass in their way, with surprising
quickness and dexterity : the grass, which was five or six feet high, and as dry as stubble,
burnt with amazing fury ; and the fire made a rapid progress towards a tent of Mr, Banks's,
wliicli had been set up for Tupia when he was sick, taking in its course a sow^ and pigs, one
of vvliich it scorched to death. Mr. Banks leaped into a boat, and fetched some people from
on board, just time enough to save his tent, by hauling it down upon the beach ; but the
smith's forge, at least such part of it as would hum, was consumed. While this was doing,
the Indians went to a i)lace at some distance, where several of our people were washing, and
where our nets, among which was the seine and a great quantity of linen, were laid out to
dry ; here they again set fire to the grass, entirely disregarding both threats and entreaties.
We were therefore obliged to discharge a musket, loaded with small shot, at one of them,
which drew blood at the distance of about forty yards, and thus putting them to flight, we
extinguished the fire at this place before it had made much progress ; but where the grass
had been first kindled, it spread into the woods to a great distance. As the Indians were
still in sight, I fired a musket, charged with ball, abreast of them among the mangroves, to
convince tl \ that they were not yet out of our reach: upon hearing the ball tiicy
quickened tli' nace, and we soon lost sight of them. We tiiouglit they would now give
us no more tro. • ; hut soon after we heard their voices in the woods, and perceived that
they came nearer and nearer. I set out, therefore, with Mr. Banks and three or four more
to meet them. When our parties came in sight of each other, they halted, except one old
man, who came forward to meet us : at length ho stojiped, and having uttered some words,
which we were very sorry we could not understand, he went back to his companions, and

July, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

the whole body slowly retreated. "Wo found means, however, to seize some of their darts,
and continued to follow them about a mile : wo then sat down upon some rocks, from which
we could observe their motions, and tliey also sat down at about a hundred yards'" distance.
After a short time, the old man again advanced towards us, carrying in his hand a lanco
without a point : ho stopped several times, at different distances, and spoke ; we answered
by beckoning, and making such signs of amity as wo could devise ; upon whicli tlic mes-
senger of peace, as we supposed him to be, turned and spoke aloud to his companions, who
then sot up their lances against a tree, and advanced towards us in a friendly manner : when
they came up, wo returned the darts or lances that wo had taken from them, and wo
perceived with great satisfaction that this rendered the reconciliation complete. We found
in this party four persons whom we had never seen before, who as usual were introduced to
us by name ; but the man who had been wounded in the attempt to burn our nets and linen
was not among them ; wo knew, however, tliat he could not be dangerously hurt, by tho
distance at which the shot reached him. We made all of them presents of such trinkets as
we had about us, and ti)ey walked back with us towards the ship. As we went along, they
told us, by signs, that they would not set fire to tho grass any more ; and we distributed
among them some musket-balls, and endeavoured to make them understand their use and
effect. When they came abreast of the ship, they sat down, but could not be prevailed upon
to come on board ; we therefore left them, and in about two hours they went away, soon
after whicli wo perceived the woods on fire at about two miles' distance. If this accident
liad happened a very little while sooner, the consequence might have been dreadful ; for our
powder had been aboard but a few days, and tho store-tent, with many valuable things
which it contained, had not been removed many hours. We had no idea of the fury with
which grass would burn in this hot climate, nor consequently of the difficulty of extinguishing
it J but we determined that if it should ever again be necessary for us to pitch our tents in
such a situation, our first measure should be to clear the ground round us.

In the afternoon, we got everything on board the ship, new berthed her, and let her
swing with the tide ; and at night tlie master returned with the discouraging account that
there was no passage for the ship to tlie northward.

The next morning, at low water, I went and sounded and buoyed the bar, the ship being
now ready for sea. We saw no Indians this day, but all the liills round us for many miles
were on fire, which at night made a most striking and beautiful appearance.

The 21st passed without our getting sight of any of the inhabitants, and, indeed, without
a single incident worth notice. On the 22nd we killed a turtle for the day's provision,
upon opening which we found a wooden harpoon or turtle-peg, about as thick as a man's
finger, near fifteen inches long, and bearded at the end, such aa we had seen among the
natives, sticking through both shoulders : it appeared to have been struck a considerable
time, for the wound had perfectly healed up over tho weapon.

Early in the morning of the 23rd I sent some people into the country to gather a supply
of the greens which have been before mentioned by the name of Indian kale ; one of them
luiving straggled from tho rest, suddenly fell in with four Indians, three men and a boy,
whom he did not see till, by turning short in the wood, he found himself among them.
They had kindled a fire, and were broiling a bird of some kind, and part of a kanguroo, tho
remainder of which, and a cockatoo, hung at a little distance upon a tree. The man, being
unarmed, was at first greatly terrified ; but he had the presence of mind not to run away,
judging, very rightly, that he was most likely to incur danger by appearing to apprehend
it; on the contrary, he went and sat down by them, and, with an air of cheerfulness and
good-humour, offered them his knife, the only thing he had about liim which he thought
would be acceptable to them ; they received it, and having handed it from one to the other,
they gave it him again : he then made an offer to leave them, but this they seemed not
disposed to permit ; still, however, he dissembled his fears, and sat down again j they con-
sidered him with great attention and curiosity, particularly his clothes, and then felt his
hands and face, and satisfied themselves that his body was of the same texture with their
own. They treated him with the greatest civility, and having kept him about half an hour,
they made signs that he might depart : uc did not wait for a second dismission, but when

1 I

244

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

July, 1770.

lie left them, not taking tlio direct way to tlio ship, thoy camo from their firo and directed
him, so that they well know whence he came.

In the mean time, Mr, Banks, having made an excursion on the other side of the river to
gather plants, found the greatest part of the cloth that had hecn given to tho Indians lying
in a heap together, prohably as useless lumber, not worth carrying away ; and perhaps, if
he had sought furtlier, ho miglit have found the other trinkets ; for they seemed to set very
little value upon anything we had, except our turtle, which was a commodity that wo were
least able to spare.

The blowing weather, which prevented our attempt to get out to sea, still continuing,
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went out again on tlie 24tli to see whether any new plant
could be picked up : they traversed the woods all day without success ; but as they were
returning through a deep valley, the sides of which, though almost as perpendicular as a
wall, were covered with trees and bushes, they found lying upon the ground several marking
nuts, tho Anacardimn oricntale; tliese put them upon a new scent, and they made a most
diligent search after the tree that bore them, which perhaps no European botanist ever
saw; but to their great mortification they could not find it: so that, after spending
much time, and cutting down four or five trees, they returned quite exhausted with fatigue
to the ship.

On the 25th, having made an excursion up tho river, I found a canoe belonging to our
friends the Indians, whom we hiid not seen since tlic affair of tho turtle ; they had left it
tied to some mangrovesi, about a mile distant from the ship, and I could see by their fires
that they were retired at least six miles directly inland.

As Mr. Banks was .again gleaning tho country for his Natural History, on the 26th he
had the good fortune to take an animal of the Opossum tribe : it was a female, and with it
he took two young ones : it was found much to resemble the remarkable animal of the kind,
which Mons. do Buffon has described in his Natural History by the name of P/ialan(/er, but
it was not the same. ]\Ions. Buffon supposes this tribe to be pecidiar to America, but in
this he is certainly mistaken ; and, probably, as Pallas has observed in his Zoology, tho
Phalanger itself is a native of the East Indies, as the animal which was caught by Mr. Banks
resembled it in the extraordinary conformation of the feet, in which it differs from animals
of every other tribe.

On the 27th, Mr. Gore shot a kanguroo, which, with the skin, entrails, and head,
weighed eighty-four pounds. Upon examination, however, we found that this animal was
not at its full growth, the innermost grinders not being yet formed. We dressed it for dinner
the next day, but, to our great disappointment, we found it had a much worse flavour than
that we had eaten before.

The wind continued in tho same quarter, and with the same violence, till five o'clock in
the morning of the 29th, when it fell calm ; soon after a light breeze sprung up from the
land, and it being about two hours' ebb, I sent a boat to see what water was upon the bar ;
in the mean time we got the anchor up, and made all ready to put to sea. But when tho
boat came back, the officer reported that there was only thirteen feet water upon the bar,
•which was six inches less than the ship drew. We w -"^ refore obliged to come to,
and the sea-breeze setting in again about eight o'clock, , ^j.\e up all hope of sailing
that day.

We had fresh gales at S.E., with hazy weather and rain, 11 two in the morning of the
31st, when the weather being something more moderate, I had thoughts of trying to warp
the ship out of the harbour ; but upon going out myself first in the boat, I found it still
blow too fresh for the attempt. During all this time the pinnace and yawl continued to ply
the net and hook with tolerable success ; sometimes taking a turtle, and frequently bringing
in from two to thee hundred weight of fish.

On the 1st of August the carpenter examined the pumps, and, to our great mortification,
found them all in a state of decay, owing, as he said, to the sap having been left in the
wood ; one of them was so rotten, as, when hoisted up, to drop to pieces, and the rest were
little better ; so that our chief trust was now iu the soundness of our vessel, which happily
did not admit more than one inch of water in an hour.

.'.!■:

i..

Ava. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYACiE ROUND THE WORLD,

245

At six o'clock in tlio nioruiiig of Friday, tlio Hril, wc iiiailo nnotlioi' uiisnocossfiil attempt
to warp tlio ship out of the Iiarhour; but at I'lvo o'clock in tlio luorniiiLj of the 4tli, our
efforts had a better elVcct, and about seven we jfot onco more under sail, with a liglit air
from the hind, wbicli soon died away, and was followed by the ^'ea-brcezea from S.E. by S.,
witli which wo stood off to sea E. by i^^, having the pinnace a-head, which was ordered to
keep sounding continually. The yawl had been sent to the turtle bank, to take up the net
•which had been left there ; but as the wind freshened, we got out before licr. A littlo
before noon wc anchored in fifteen fathom water, with a sandy bottom ; for I did not think
it safe to run in among the shoals till I had well viewed them at low water from the mast-
head, which might determino nio which way to steer; for, as yet, I was in doubt whether I
should beat back to the southward, round all the shoals, or seek a passnge to the eastward
or the northward, all which at present appeared to bo equally difficult and dangerous.
When wo were at anchor, the harbour from which wo sailed boro S. 7<' W., distant about
five leagues ; tho northernmost point of the main in sight, which 1 named ( 'apk Bi'.m'onn,
and which lies in latitude \'}° l(i' S,, longitude 214' 4"i' W., boro N. 2(» W., distant threo
leagues and a half; but to the N.E. of this capo wo could see land which had tlie apjieararxo
of two high islands : tho turtle banks bore east, distant one mile : our latituile, by observation,
was l'>° 32' S., and our depth of water iu standing off" from the land was from three and
a half to fifteen fathom.

CnAPTER V DEPARTURE FROM ENDEAVOUR RIVER; A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE

HARBOUR THERE IN WHICH THE SHIP WAS REFITTED; THE ADJACENT COrNTHV, AND

SEVERAL ISLANDS NEAR THE COAST. THE HANfiE FROM ENDEAVOUR RIVER TO Til .J

NORTHERN EXTREMITY OP THE COUNTRY, AND THE DANGERS OF THAT NAVIGATION.

To the harbour which wc had now left, I gave the name of Endeavour River. It is only
a small bar harbour, or creek, which runs in a winding channel three or four leagues inland,
and at the head of which there is a small brook of fresh water. There is not depth of water
for shipping above a mile within the bar, and at this distance only on the nortli side, where
the bank is so steep for near a quarter of a mile that a ship may lie afloat at low water, so
near the shore as to reach it with a stage, and the situation is extremely convenient for
heaving down ; but at low water, the dejith upon the bar is not more tlian nine or ten feet,
nor more than seventeen or eiahtcen at the heififht of the tide ; the difference between high
and low water at spring-tides being about nine feet. At the new and full of the moon, it
is high water between nine and ten o'clock. It must also be remembered, that this part of
the coast is so barricaded with shoals as to make the harbour still more difficult of access ;
the safest approach is from the southward, keeping the main land close upon the board all
the way. Its situation may always bo found by the latitude, which has been very accu-
rately laid down. Over the south point is some high land, but the north point is formed by
a law sandy beach, which extends about three miles to the northward, where the land begins
again to be high.

The chief refreshment that wc procured here was turtle ; but as they were not to bo had
without going five leagues out to sea, and the weather was frequently tempestuous, we did
not abound with this dainty. What wc caught, as well as the fish, was always equally
divided among us all by weight, the meanest person on board having the same share as my-
self; and I think every commander, in such a voyage as this, will find it his interest to
follow the same rule. In several parts of the sandy beaches, and sand-hills near the sea, we
found purslain, and a kind of bean that grows upon a stalk, which creeps along the ground.
The purslain we found very good when it was boiled ; and the beans are not to be despised,
for we found them of great service to our sick. The best greens, however, that could bo
procured hero were the tops of the cocos, which have been mentioned already, as known in
the West Indies by the name of Indian kale : these were, in our opinion, not much inferior
to spinnagc, which in taste they somewhat resemble ; the roots, indeed, arc not good, but
they might probably be meliorated by proper cultivaticm. They are found here chiefly in

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Aio. 1770.

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l>op{ty grouinl. Tlic few cabbngc-palms that wc met witli were in general small, and yielded
HO little cal»bagc tliat they were not wortli seeking.

iiiL'wles the kanguroo, and the opossum, that have been already mentioned, and a kind ol'
polecat, tlicie are wolves upon tliis jiart of the coast, if we were not deceived by the tracks
upon tlie gruind, and several species of serpents : some of the serpents are venomous, and
some liarmless. 'J'here are no tame animals here excejit dogs, and of these wc saw but two
or three, whicli fre(|Uently came about the tents to pick \i]i the scraps and bones that hap-
pened to lie scattereil near them. There does not, indeed, seem to be many of any animal,
except the kanguruo ; wc scarcely saw any other above once, but this we met with almost
every time we went into the woods. Of land fowls, we saw crows, kites, hawks ; cockatoos
of two sorts, one white and the other black ; a very beautiful kind of loriipiets, some parrots,
pigeons of two or three sorts, and several small birds not known in Europe. The water-
fowls arc, hems, whistling ducks — which perch, and, I believe, roost upon trees, — wild geese,
curlews, and a few others ; but these do not abound. The face of the country, which has
been occasionally mentioned before, is agreeably diversified by bill and valley, lawn and
•wood. The soil of the hills is hard, dry, and stony, yet it produces coarse grass besides
wood. The soil of tlic plains and valleys is in some pLiees sand, and in some, clay ; in
some also it is rocky and stony, like the hills ; in general, however, it is weP clothed, and
has at least the appearance of fertility. The whole country, both hill and valley, wood and
plain, abounds with ant-hills, some of which are six or eight feet high, and twice as much
in circumference. The treu hero arc not of many sorts : the gum-tree, which we found on
the southern part of the coast, is the most common, Imt here it is not so large. On each
side of the river, through its whole course, there arc mangroves in great numbers, which in
some jilaces extend a mile within the coast. The country is in all |»arts well watered, there
being several fine rivulets at a small distance from each other, btit none m the place where
wc lay, — at least not during the time we were there, which w-is the dry se.-ison ; wc were,
however, well supplied with water by springs which were not far off.

In the afternoon of the -Ith, we had a gentle breeze at S.K., and clear weather ; but as I
did not intend to sail till the morning, I sent all the boats to the reef to get what turtle and
shell-iish they could. At low-water I went up to the mast-head, and took a view of the
shoals, which made a very threatening a])pearance : I could ste several at a remote distance,
and j)art ot many of them was above water. The sea appeared most open to the north-east
of the turtle reef, and I came to a resolution to stretch out th.it way close upon a wind,
because, if wc should find no passage, wc could always return the way we went. In the
evening, the boats brought in a turtle, a sting-ray, and as many large cockles as came to
about a ])oun<l and a half a man, for in each of them there was not less than two pounds of
meat. In the night, also, we caught several sharks, which, though not a dainty, were an
acceptable increase of our fresh provision.

In the morning I waited till half ebb before I weighed, liceause at that time the shoals
begin to ai)pear, but the wind then blew so hard that I was obliged to remain at anchor :
in the afternoon, however, the gale becoming more moderate, we got under sail, and stood
out ujion a wind N. !•'. by E., leaving the turtle reef to win<lw.ard, and having the pinnace
sojuiding a-head. Wo had not kept this course long, before we discovered shoals beforo us,
and upon both the bows ; and at half an ho\ir after four, linving run about eight miles, the
pinnace made the signal for shoal water, where we little expected it : upon this we tacked,
and stood on and off, while the pinnace stretched farther to the eastward, and night
approaching, I came to an anchor in twenty fathom water, with a muddy bottom. Endea-
vour River then bore S. 't2 W. ; Ciipe Ikdford W. by N. \ N., distant five leagues ; the
northernmost land in sight, which had the appearance of an ishind N. ; and a shoal, a small
sandy part of which appeare<l above water, bore N.E., distant iH-tween two and three miles :
in standing off from turtle reef to this place, we li.id from fouieen to twenty fathcm water,
but when the piimace was about a mile farther to the I]. N. E. there was no more than four
or five feet water, with rocky ground ; and yet this did not ap]>ear to us in the ship. In
the morning of the (ith we had a strong gale, so that instead of weighing, we were obliged
to veer away more cable, and strike our top-gallant yards. At low water, myself, with

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A CO, 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGK UOUXD TJIE WO 11 LI).

several of the officers, k( pt a look-ont at tlie ina'-t-lieaJ, to sec if any passage could be dis-
covered between tho slioalri, but nothin;; wa.-* in \'n:\\ txce|>t bnakersi, extending from tlie
S. round by tlic E. as far as N. W., ami out t«» ^a Ix-yoinl tiie reaeli of our sijflit ; tiieso
breakers, liowever, did not a])peart<i Ik? chum-iI by one t-ontiiiiied sboal, but l)y several wliieli
lay detaclied from caeli otlier : on tint wbicli lay fartlust to tlic eastward tli'j sea broke
very bigli, wbicli made nv tliink it wa» tbe out«nnost, for upon many of tliesc witliui, the
breakers were inconsiderable, and from abf)Ut lialf ebb t«» balf flood, tliey were not tv, be seen
at all, wliicb makes sailing among tliem still ni«»rf dangerous, especially as the sboals bero
consist princi|)ally of coral rocks, wbicb nre as st<-ep a.s a wall ; upon some of tliem, how-
ever, and generally nt tbe north end, there arc |iatclies of sand, ■which are covered only at
high water, and which are to be discerned at sonic distance. Bein^ now convinced that
there was no passage to sea, but through the lab^-rintb formed by these shoals, I was
altogether at a loss which w^ay to stwr, when the weather should permit us to get under
sail. It was the master's opinion, that wc should beat b.tck the way we came, but tliis
would have been an endless labour, as the wind blew strongly from that quarter, almu^t
without intermission ; on the otlier hand, if no p.-ussagc could bo found to the northward, we
should be compelled to take that measure at la-'t. These anxious deliberations engaged tis
till el(!ven o'clock at night, when the sljip drove, and obliged us to veer away to a
cable and one-third, which brought her up ; but iu the morning, the gule increasing, slie
drove again, and wc therefore let go the sn»all Ixjwer, ami veered away to u whole cablo
upon it, and two cables on tiic other aneliors. yet she still drove, though not so fast ; wo
then got down top-gallant nmsts, and stnick the yards and top-masts close down, and at
last had the satisfaction to find that she ro«le. Cape Ik-dford now bore AV. S. W. distant
three leagues ami a half, and in this situation wc had shoals to the eastward, extending from
the S. ]•]. by S. to the N. N. AV., tbe nearest of which was about two miles distant. As the
gale continued, with little remission, we rode till s«ven o'clock in the morning of the 10th,
when, it being niore moderate, we weitrhe<l, and stood in for the land, having at length
determined to seek a jtassage along tbe shore to the northward, still keeping the boat ahead:
during our run in we had from nineteen to twelve fathom : after standing iu about an hour,
we edged away for three small islands that lay N. \. E. -V E., three leagues from Capo Bed-
ford, which the master bad visited while wc were in port. At nine o'clock we were abreast
of them, and between them and the main : between us and the main there was another low
island, which lies N. N. W. four miles from the three islands ; and in this ch.annel wc had
fourteen fathom water. The northernmost point of land in sight now bore N.X. W. ' W.,
distant about two leagues. Four or five Icairucs to the north of this hcid-land wc saw
three islands, near which lay some that were still smaller, and we could sec the shoals and
reefs withcnt us, extending to the northward, as far .is these islands : between these reefs
and the head-land we directed our course, leaving to the eastward a small island, which lies
N. by E., distant four miles from the three islands. At noon we were got between the head-
land and the three islands : from the liead-l.-ind wc were distant two leagues, and from the
islands four; our latitude, by observation, wa^ 1-1-51'. Wc now thought wo saw a clear
opening before us, and hoped that we were once more out of danger ; in this hope, however,
we soon found ourselves disappointed, and for that reason I called the head-land Cape
Flattkuy. It lies in latitude 14" .5<i .*?., longitude 214' 4',i W., and is a lofty promontory,
making next the sea in two hills, which have a third behind them, with low sandy ground
on each side : it may however be still better known by the three islands out at sea : the
northernmost and largest lies abojit five league* from the capo, in the direction of N. N. E.
From Cape Flattery the land trends away X. W., and N. W. by W. Wo steered along
the shore N. W. by W. till one oVdock, for what we thought the open channel, when the
petty oflicer at the mast-head cried out that he saw land ahead, extending quite round to
the islands that lav without us, and a large reef between us and them : upon this I ran up
to the mast-head myself, from whence I vory plainly saw the reef, which was now so far
to windward, that we could not weather it, but the land ahead, which ho had supposed
to bo the main, a]>peared to me to be only a cluster of small islands. As soon aa I got down
from the mast-head, the master and some others went up, who all insisted that the land

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COOK'S FIRST VOVAtJE ROUND THE WORLD.

Alto. 1770.

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alicncl was not is1aIld^!, liiit tlic main, and to make tlicir report still more alarming, tliey said
that tliey ii-aw briakirs all lund us. In this dilemma wc hauled upon a wind in for the
land, and niatle the siijnal for the hoat that was sounding ahead to come on hoard, but as
she was far to leeward, we were ohlijred to edge away to take her u]», and soon after wo
came to an anchor, under a ])oint of the main, in i^omewhat le^s than five fathom, and at
about Uie ilistance of a mile from the shore. C'ajte Flattery now hore S. E., distant three
IcagJies and a half. As soon as I'.ie ship was at anchor, I went ashore n])on the point, which
is high, and afl'orded me a good view of the sea-coast, trending away N.W. by W. eight or ten
leagues, whieh, the weather not being very clear, was as far as I could sec. Nine or ten
small low islands, and some shoals, appeared oft' the coas^t ; I saw also some large shoals
between the main and the three liigh islands, without whieh I was clearly of opinion there
were more islands, and not any jtart of the main. Kxc('i>t the point I was now npon, which
I called Point Look-oit, and Caju' Flattery, the main land, to the northward of Cape Bed-
ford, is low, and chequered with white sand and green hushes, for ten or twelve miles in-
land, beyond which it rises to a cunsiderable height. To the northwaid of Point Look-out
the coast apjK'ared to be shoal and flat for a considerable distance, which did not encourage
the hope that the channel wc had hitherto found in with the land would continue. Upon
this point, which w.is narrow, and consisted of the finest white sand we had ever seen, wo
discovered the footsteps of people, and wc saw also smoke and lire at a distance up the
country.

In tlie evening I returned to the ship, and resolved the next morning to visit one of the
high islands in the ofhng, from the top of which, as they lay five leagues out to sea, I
hoped to discover more distinctly the situation of the slioals. and the cliannel between
them.

In the morning therefore of the 11th I set out in the pinn.ice, accompanied by ^Fr. Danks,
(whose fortitufle and ci'riiisity made him a party in every expedition,) for the northernmost
and largest of tlie three islands, and at tlie same time I sent the master in the yawl to
leeward, to sound between tlie low islands and the main. In my way I p.^.^sed over a reef
of coral rock and sand, whieh lies about two leagues from the island, and I left another to
leeward, which lies about three miles from it: on the north part of the reef, to the leeward,
there is a low sandy i>iaii<l, with trees ujtnn it ; and njion the reef which wc i)assed over,
wc saw several turtle : we c'lased ow or two, but having little time to spare, and the wind
blowing fresh, wo did not take any.

About one o'clock we reached tlie island, and immediately ascended the highest hill, with
a mi.\ture of ho])e and fear, proi)ortioned to the imjoirtance of our business, and the uncer-
tainty of the event. When I looked round, I discovered a reef of rocks lying between two
and three Icaguea without the islands, and extending in a line N.W. and S.i-'. farther than
I could see, ujion which the sea broke in a flrcadful surf; this, however, made me think that
there were no slioals beyond them, and I conceived hopes of getting without these, as I
perceived several breaks or ojtenings in the reef, and deep water between that and the
islands. I continued upon this hill till sunset, but the weather was so hazy during the
whole time, that I came d(nvn nuich disappointe<l. After reflecting upon what I had seen,
and comparing the intelligence I had gained with what I expected, I determined to stay
upon the island all night, hoping that the morning might be clearer, and afford me a more
distinct and comprehensive view. Wc therefore took up our lodging under the shelter of a
bush which grew upon the beach, ami at three in the morning, having sent the pinnace with
one of the niatts whom I bad brought out with me, to sound between the island and the
reefs, and examine w iiat a])peared to be a channel through them, I climbed the hill a second
time, hut to my great disappointment found the weather mueh more hazy than it had been
the day before. About iioon the pinnace returned, having been as far .is the reef, and found
between fifteen and twenty-eight fathom of water ; but it blew so hard, that the mate did
not dare to venture into one of the channels, which he said aj^pcared to him to be very
narrow : this, however, did not discourage me, for I judged from his description of the
pKice he had been at, that iie had seen it to disadvantnge. While I w.os busy in my survey,
Jlr. Danks w.ia attentive to his favourite pursuit, and picked up several plants which he had

A IT.. 1770.

COOKS FIHST VC)YA(;E UOIM) THE U'OULf).

24!t

not befitre soi-n. AVo foinvl tlio islaiiil, wliich is viglhlc at twelve leagues' ilistanee, to be
about ei<;bt leagues in eircuinferenee, and in general very roeky ami barren. On tlie north-
west siile, however, there are some sanily l)ays, ami some low land, whieli is covered with
long thin grass, and trees of tliu same ivind with those upon the main: tliis |>art alxi abounded
with lizards (if a very large size, sonu; of whieh we tnnk. We found al.-<o fresh Wu*<r in
two jdaces : one was a running stream, but that was a little braeki^h where I tasted it, whicli
was close to the sea; tlie «,ther was n standing jxiol, chise behind the sandy beach, and tliis
was perfectly sweet and good. Notwithstanding the di-itanee of this inland from the main,
wc saw, to our great surprise, that it was sometinu's visited by the natives ; fur we found
seven or eight frames of their huts, antl vast lieaps of shells, the fish of which we su]H)osed
bad been their food. AVc observed that all these buts were built upon eminences, and
entirely exposeil to the S.E., contrary to those whieh we had seen upon the main ; for they
were all built either upon the side of a hill, or under some bushes, whieh atVorded them
shelter from the wind. From these huts, and their situation, wc concluded that at some
seasons of the year the weather hero is invariably ealni and fine ; for the inhaljitants have
no boat which can navijiate the sea to so great a distance, in such weather as we had frouj
tlic time of our first coming upon the coast. As we saw no animals upon this jilace but
lizards, I called it Li/Aiti> Island. The other two high islands, whieh lie at the distance
of four or five miles from it, arc coini>aratively small ; and near them lie three others smaller
still, and low, with several shoals or reefs, esjiecially to the S. \']. : there is, however, a ch'ar
passagr Voni Capo Flattery to these islands, and even cpiite to the outward reefs, leaving
Lizard Island to the north-west, and the others to the south-east.

At two in the afternoon, there being no bo])C of clear weather, we set out from Lizanl
Island to return to the slii|), and in our way lamled tipon the low sandy island with trees
Ml)on it, whieh we had remarked in our going out. I'pon this islantl we saw an incredible
number of birds, chiefly sea-fowl : we found also the nest of an eagle, with young ones, which
we killed ; and the nest of some other bird, we knew not what, of a most enormous size : it
was built with sticks tipon the ground, and was no less than six-and-twenty feet in circum-
ference, and two feet eight inches high. AVo found, also, that tliis jdaee had been visited by
the Indians, probably to eat turtle, many of which we saw uixin the island, ami a great number
of their shells, piled one upon another in dift'erent jilaces.

To this spot wo gave the name of Eaolk Isi.ano ; and after leaving it, we steered S.W.
directly for the shi|>, sounding all the way, and we had never less than eight fathom, nor
more than fourteen, the samo depth of water tb it I bad found between this and Lizard
Island.

AVIien I got on board, the master informed mo that be bad been down to tlio low islands,
between which and the main I had directed bini to sound ; that he judged them to lie about
three leagues from the main ; that without them he found from ten to fourteen fathom, and
between them and the main, seven ; but that a flat, whieh ran two leagues otit from the main,
made this channel narrow, l^pon one of these low isliinds he slept, and was ashore ujion
others; and he reported, that be saw everywhere piles of turtle-shells, and fins hanging upon
the trees in many places, with the flesh upon them, so recent, that the boat's crew ate of
them : be saw also two s])ots, clear of grass, which appeared to have been lately dug up, and
from the shape and size of them, he conjectured they were graves.

After considering what I had seen myself, and the report of the master, I was of opinion
that the passage to leeward would be dangerous, and that, by keejiing in with the main, we
should run tlie ri^k of being locked in by the great reef, and at last be compelled to return
back in search of another j>assage, by which, or any other accident that should canse il
same di-lay, we should infallibly lose otir passage to the Ivist hulies, and endanger the ruin
of the voyage, aa wc had now but little more than three months' jirovisions on board at short
allowance.

Having stated this o])inion, and the facts and ajipearances upon whicli it was founded, to
the officers, it was nnaninu)usly agreed, that the best thing wo could do would be to quit
the coast altogether, till we could approach it with less danger.

In tlio morning, therefore, at break of day, we got under sail, and stood out N.L. for the

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250

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLI).

Aug. 1770.

nnrtli-wost end of Li/anl Tslnnd, leaving Eagle I.sland to windward, and somo other islanda
an<l f^lioals to tlio leeward, and liavinq; tin' pinnaee nliead to ascertain tlic depth of water in
every part of our course. In this channd we had from nine to fourteen fathom. At noon,
the north-west end of Lizard Island hore K.S.K., distant one mile; our latitude hy ohscrva-
tion was 1-1 ',W, and our depth of water fourteen fathom. Wo had a steady gale at S.K.,
and hy two o'clock wo just fetched to windwanl of one of the channels or openings in tlio
outer reef, which I had seen from the island. We now tacked and made a short trip to tlio
S.W., while the master in the ])innncc examined the channel : he soon made the signal for
the ship to follow, and in a short time she got safe out. As soon as we liad got without
the breakers, wo had no ground with one hundred and fifty fathom, and found a largo sea
rolling in from the S.E., a certain sign that neither land nor shoals were near ua in that
direction.

Our change of situation was now visihic in every countenance, for it was most sensibly felt
in every breast : wc had been little less than three months entangled amoiig shoals and rocks,
uhat every moment threatened us with destruction ; frequently passing our nights at anchor
within hearing of the surge that broke over them : sometimes driving towards them even
while our anchors were out, and knowing that if by any accident, to which an almost con-
tinual tempest exposed ns, they should not Indd, we must in a few minutes inevitably perish.
IJut now, after having sailed no less th.in three hundred and sixty leagues, without once
having a man out of the chains heaving the had, even for a minute, which perhaps never
liappened to any other vessel, we found ourselves in an open sea, with deep water; and
enjoyed a flow of sj)irits, which was ecpially owing to our late dangers and our present secu-
rity : yet the very waves, which by their swell convinced us that we had no rocks or shoals
to fear, convinced us also that we could not safely ])ut the same confidence in our vessel as
before she had struck ; for the blows she received from them so widened her leaks, that she
admitted no less than nine inches water an hour, which, considering the state of our pumps,
and the navigation that was still before us, would have been a subject of moro serious con-
sideration to people whose danger had not so lately been so much more imminent.

The passage or channel through which wc passed into the open sea beyond the reef, lies in
latitude 14" 'A'2' S., and may always be known by the three liigh islands within it, which I
have called the Islands of Dikection, because by these a stranger may find a safe passage
through the reef quite to the main. The ch.anncl lies from Lizard Island N.E. ^ N., distant
three leagues, and is about one-third of a mile broad, and not more in length. Lizard Island,
which is, as I have before observed, the largest and the northernmost of the three, affords
safe anchorage under the north-west side, fresh water, and wood for fuel. The low islands
and shoals also which lie between it and the main abound with turtle and fish, which may
probably be caught in all seasons of the year, except when the weather is very tempestuous ;
so that, all things consiilered, there is not perhaps a better place for ships to refresh at upon
the whole coast than this island. And, before I dismiss it, I must observe, that wc found
upon it, as well as upon the beach in and about Endeavour River, bamboos, cocoa-nuts,
pumice-stone, and the seeds of plants which are not the produce of this country, and which, it
is reasonable to suppose, are brought from the eastward by the trade-winds. The islands which
were discovered by Quiros, and called Australia del Kspiritu Santa, lie in this parallel ; but
how far to the eastward cannot now be ascertained : in most charts they are placed in tho
same longitiide with this country, which, as appears by the account of his voyage that has
been published, he never saw ; for that places his discoveries no less than two-and-twenty
degrees to the eastward of it.

As soon as we were without the reef, we brought to, and having hoisted in the boats, wc
stood off and on upon a wind all night ; for I was not willing to run to leeward till I had a
whole day beforv^' me. In the morning, at daybreak. Lizard Island bore S. lit E., distant
ten leagues; and wc then made sail, and y.ooi away N.N.W. ^ W. till nine o'clock, when
we stood X.W. I N., having the advantage of a fresh gale at S.E. At noon, our latitude by
observation was 13^ 4(5' S., and at this time we had no land in sight. At six in the evening
wc shortened sail, and l>:ouglit the ship to, with her head to th.o N.E. ; and at six in tho
morning made sail, and steered west, in order to get within eight of the land, that I nught

A 10. 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

2:>i

be sure not to ov 'slioot the p.assagc, if a passage tlicrc was, between tliis land and New
Guinea. At noon, our latitude by observation was 13' 2' S., longitude 21(5^ W. ; which
was 1 ' 23' W. of Lizard Island : at this time we had no land in sight; but a little before
one o'eloek we saw high land from the mast-head, bearing W.IS.W. At two, we saw more
land to the \.W. of that we had seen before : it a])i)eared in hills, like islands; but wo
judged it to be a continuation of the n)ain land. Aboui three, wc discovered breakers
between the land and the shi]>, extending to the southward farther than we could see ; but to
the north wo thought wc saw them terminate abreast of us. What we took for the end of
them in this direction, however, soon appeared to be only an opening in the reef ; for wc
presently saw thoin again, extending northward beyond tl c reach of our sight. Upon this
we hauled close upon a wind, which was now at E.S.E., and we had scarcely trimmed otir
sails before it came to E. by X., which was right upon the reef, and consequently made our
clearing it doubtful. At sunset the northernmost part of it that was in sight bore from us
N. by E., and was two or three leagues distant ; this, however, being the best tack to clear
it, we kept standing to the northward with all the sail we could set till midnight ; when,
being afraid of standing too far in this direction, wc tacked and stood to the southward, our
run from sunset to this time being six leagJies N. and N. by E. When we had stood alxmt
two miles 8.S.E. it fell calm ; wc had sounded several times during the night, but had no
bottom with one hundred and forty fathom, neither had we any ground now with the same
length of line ; yet, about four in the morning, wc plainly heard the roaring of the surf, and
at break of day saw it foaming to a vast height, at not more than a mile's distincc. Our
distress now returned upon us with double force ; the waves, which rolled in upon the reef,
carried us towards it very fast ; we could reach no groimd with an anchor, and had not a
breath of wind for the sail. In this dreadful situation, no resource was left us but the boats ;
.inJ to aggravate our misfortune, the pinnace was under repair : the long-boat land yawl,
however, were put into the water, and sent ahead to tow, which, by the help of our sweeps
abaft, got the. ship's head round to the northward ; which, if it could not prevent our destruc-
tion, might at least delay it. But it was six o'clock before this was effected, and wc were
not then a hundred yards from the rock upon which the same billow which washed the side
of the ship, broke to a tremendous height the very next time it rose ; so thiit between us and
destruction there was only a dreary valley, no wider than tl.e base of one wave, and even
now the sea under us was unfathomable, at least no bottom was to be found with a hundred
and twenty fathom. During this scene of distress the carpenter had found means to ])atch
up the pinnace ; so that she was hoisted out, and sent ahead, in aid of the other boats, to
tow; but all our efforts would have been ineffectual, if, just at this crisis of our fate, a light
air of wind had not sprung up — so light, that at any other time we should not have observed
it, but which was enough to turn the scale in our favour, and, in conjunction with the assist-
ance which was afforded us by the boats, to give the ship a perceptible motion obliquely
from the reef. Our hopes now revived ; but in less than ten minutes it was again a dead
calm, and the ship was again driven towards the breakers, which were not now two hundred
yards distant. The same light breeze, however, returned before wc had lost all the ground
it had enabled us to gain, and lasted about ten minutes more. During this time we disco-
vered a small opening in the reef, at about the distance of a quarter of a mile : I immedi-
ately sent one of the mates to examine it, who reported that its breadth was not more than
the length of the ship, but that within it there was smooth water : this discovery seemed to
render our escape possible, and that was all, by pushing the ship through the opening, which
was immediately attempted. It was uncertain, indeed, whether wo could reach it ; but if
wc should su'ieeed thus far, we made no doubt of being able to get thro\igh : in this, how-
ever, we were disajipointed, for having reached it by the joint assistance of our boats and the
breeze, we found that in the mean time it had become high water, and to our great surprise
we met the tide of ebb nishing out of it like a mill-stream. We gained, however, some
advantage, though in a manner directly contrary to our expectations ; we found it impossible
to go through the opening, but the stream that i)revented us, carried us out about a quarter
of a mile ; it was too narrow for us to keep in it longer ; yet this tide of ebb so much
assisted the boats, that by uoou we had got an olting of near two miles. We had, however,

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Ai«. 177<».

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reason to despair of tlcliviTanrc, even if tlic breeze, wliicli liad now Jied away, slionM revive,

for we were still enibayeil in tlio reef ; and the title of el)I» beini^ spent, the tide of fl I, n(»t-

witlistandini^ our utmost eJVort", aj.'ain drov the shi]) into the hi;,'ht. Ahont this time,
however, we saw another o])eninix, near a mile tn the westward, whieli I immediately sent
the first lieutenant, 3ir. Ilieks, in the small hoat to examine : in tlie nuan time we sti-u:,'t.de(l
hard with the flood, sometimes <:aii<in;r a little, and sometimes losing; ; hut ev( ry man still
dill his duty, with as niueh cahnness and rei,'idarity as if no dan^jer had been near. About
two o'clock Mr. Ilieks returned, with an aeeount that the oi)enin<^ was narrow and danger-
ous, but that it niiijht be passed : the possibility of jiassinjf it was sulheient eneouraifement
to make the attem])t, for alldanjjer was less innuinent than that of our ])resent situation. A
l\<lht breeze now sprun^r up at K.N.Iv, with which, by the help of our boats, and the very
tide of Hood that, without an openinj;, would have been our de>truetion, we entered it, and
were hurried through with amazing rapidity, by a torrent that kej)t us from driving a^jainst
cither side of the channel, which was not more than a rpiarter of a mile in breadth. While
wc were shooting this gulf, our soundings were from thirty to seven fathom, very irregular,
and the ground at bottom very foul.

As soon as wu had got within the reef, wc anchored in nineteen fathom, over a bottom of
coral and sliells. And now, sueh is tlie vicissitude of life, we thought ourselves happy in
having reiraiued a situation which, but two days before, it was the utmost object of our hope
to quit. Kocks and shoals are always dangerous to the mariner, even where their situation
lias been ascertained ; they are more dangerous in seas which have never before been navi-
gated, and in this ))art of the globe they are more dangerous than in any other ; for here
they are r.'efs of coral rock, rising like a wall almost perpendicularly out of the unfathomable
deep, always overflowed at high water, and at low water dry in many places ; and here the
cnormons waves of the vast Southern Ocean nieeting with so abrupt a resistance, break, with
inconceivable violence, in a surf which no rocks or storms in the northern hemisphere can
produce. The danger of navigating unknown ])arts of this ocean was now greatly increased
l)y our having a crazy ship, and being sliort of jirovisions ami every other neces.sary ; yet
the distinction of a first discoverer made; us cheerfully encounter every danger, and submit to
every inconvenience ; and we chose rather to incur the censure of impru<U'nce and temerity,
which the idle and voluptuous so liberally bestow upon unsuccessful fortitude and persever-
ance, than leave a country which we had discovered unexplored, and give colour to a charge
of timidy and irresolution.

Having now congratulated ourselves upon gettin" within the reef, notwithstandi.ng we
had so lately congratulated ourselves upon getting without it, I resolved to keep the main
land on board in my future route to the northward, whatever the consequence might be ;
for if we had now gone without the reef again, it might have carried us so far from the
coast as to prevent my being able to determine, whether this country did, or did not join to
New (luinea; a question which I was determined to resolve from my first coning within
sight of land. However, as I had experienced the disadvantage of having a boat Jinder
repair at a time when it was possible I might want to use her, I determined to remain fast
at anchor till the pinnace was perfectly refitted. As I had no emi)loynient for the other
boats, I sent them out in the morning to the reef, to see what refreshments could be pro-
cured, and Mr. Banks, in his little boat, accompanied by Dr. 8olander, went with them.
In this situation I found the variation by amplitude and azimuth to be 4 U' E. ; and at
noon, our latitude, by observation, was 12^ ',W S., and our longitude 21(5" 4it' W. The
main land extended from N. (if! W. to S.W. by 8., and the nearest part of it was distant
about nine leagues. The opening through which we had passed, I called Pkovidkntial
CiiANNKL ; and this bore K.N.K., distant ten or twelve miles; on the main land within us
was a lofty promontory, which I called Capk Wkymoittii ; on the north side of which is a
bay, whicii I called Wfamoutii Bay : they lie in latitude 12 42' S., longitude 2 1 7' 15' W.
At four o'clock in the afternoon the boats returned with two humlrcd and forty pounds of
the meat of shell-fish, chiefly of cockles, some of whicli were as much as two men could
move, and contained twenty pounds of good meat. 3Ir. Banks also brought back many
curious shells and Mullnsai ; besides many spccit's of coral, among which was that called
the Tnhijnjt'a mimoi.

1770.

All). 1770.

(OOKS FIIIST VOVACK ROIND TFIK WOIILIK

2.')a

At six o'clock ill tlio morninj; we pit under sail, ami stood away to tlio N.W,, having
two boats ahead to direct us ; (Hir soiuidiuL's were verv irre''ular. varvin" five or six fathom
every cast, hitweeii ten and twenty-seven. A little hefure noon, we ]>assed a low samly
island, wiiich we left on our starhoard siile, at tlie di>tanco of two miles. At noon our
latitude was \'2 2\V, aiul our distance from the main almut fnur leagues: it extended from
S, by W. to N. 71 ^N'm and some small islands from N. lO W. to ;'»! AV. lletwoen us and
the main were several shoals, and some without us, besiiles the main or outermost reef,
which wc could sec from the mast-head, stretchinj; away to the N.I'. At two in the after-
noon, as wo were steerinj; N.W. by N. we saw a larp- shoal ri^lit ahead, extending three or
four ])oints upon each bow ; ujion this we hauled uy N'..\.l'',. and N.l'. by N. to get round
the north point of it, which we roachcil by four, ami then ed;.'ed away to the westward, and
ran between the north end of this shoal and another which lies two miles to the northward
of it, having a boat all the way ahead souiuling ; our depth of water was still very irregu-
lar, from twenty-two to eight fathom. At half an hour after six, we anchored in thirteen
fathom : the northernmost of the small islaiuls scon nt noon bore W. L ><,^ distant three
miles : these islands are distinguished in the chart by the name of roiimcs's Islands, and
lie .about five leagues from the main, which here forms a high jioint that wc called Ihti.T
IIkaii, from wliich the land trends more westerly, and is in that direction all low and sandy;
to the southward it is high and hilly, even lu-ar the sea.

At six in the morning wc got again under sail, and steered for an island which lay at a
small distance from the main, and at this tinu; bore from us N. 40 W., distant about five
leagues : onr cojirse was soon interruj)ted by shoals ; however, by the help of the boats, and
a good look-out from the top of the mast, we got into a fair channel that led us down to the
island, between a very large shoal on our starboard side, and several small ones towards the
main : in this channel we had from twenty to thirty fathom water. Iletween eleven and
twelve o'clock we hauled round the north-east side of the island, leaving it between us and
the main, from which it is distant about seven or eijiht miles. This island is about a Icajjuo
in circuit, and we saw upon it five of the natives, two of whom had lances in their hands ;
they came down upon a point, and having looked a little while at the ship, retired. To the
N.W. of it are several low islands and quays, which lie not far from the main ; and to the
northward and eastward are several other islands and shoals ; so that we were now encom-
passed on every side : but having lately been exposed to much greater danger, and rocks
and shoals being grown familiar, we looked at them comparatively with little concern. The
main land appeared to bo low and barren, interspersed with large patches of the very fine
white sand which wc had found upon Lizard Island and diflFcrcnt parts of the main. The
boats had seen many turtle upon the shoals which they passed, but it blew too hard for them
to take any. At noon our latitude, by observation, was I2=, and our longitude 217^ 2;V :
our depth of water was fourteen fathom ; and our cotirse and distance, reduced to a straight
line, was, between this time and the preceding noon, N. 2S> W. thirty-two miles.

The main laud within the islands that have been just mentioned forms a point, which I
called Cape Ghknyilli:: it lies in latitude 1 P ')J{', longitude 217' 3}{' ; and between it
and Bolt Head is a bay, which I called Ticjipm: Bay. At the distance of nine leagues from
Cape Grenvillo, in the direction of E. -}j X. lie some high islands, which I called Sm
Charles Hardy's Lslks ; and those which lie oft" the Cape I called CocKnxRN's Islks.
Having lain by for the boats, which had got out of their station, till about one o'clock, we
then took the yawl in tow ; and the jiinuace having got ahead, we filled, and st( od X. by
W. for some small islan<ls which lay in that direction ; such at least tl-.oy were in api)ear-
ance, but upon approaching them we jicrceived that they were joined together by a large
reef: upon this wc edged away X.W. and left them on our starboard band ; we steered
between them and the islands that lay oflF the main, having a clear passage, and from fifteen
to twenty-three fathom water. At four o'clock we discovered some low islands and rocks,
bearing W.N.W., and stood directly for them : at half an hour after six wc anchored on
the north-east side of the northernmost of them, at one mile's distance, and in sixteen fathom.
These islands lie N.W. four leagues from Cape Grenvillo, and from the number of birds
that I saw upon them, I called them Bird Isli:s. A little before sunset, wc were in sight

t^i«^

■il i.

!.;

!> f

254

(OOK'S FIRST VOVAC.E UOl'Nn THE WORLD.

A 10. 1770.

\ '

of the main land, wliicli apjM'ared all very low ami «an<ly, extending as far to the north-
ward an N.W. I»y N., Home HJioala, quays, and low sandy i^les J'tretchinf; away to the N.K.

At !^ix o'cloek in tlic morning wo got again tinder sail, witli a frc»li bret-z*' at 1'., and
stood awav N'.N.W. for womo low islands in that direetion, hut were »i»on obliged to haul
close noon a wind to weather a shoal wliieh we discovered upon our larlioard bow, having,
at the sanu* time, others to the eastward : by the time w-e had weathered this shoal to lee-
ward, we had brought the islands well upon our Ice-lmw, but, M-t ing some shoals run oft*
from them, and some rocks on our starboard bow, which we did not diwover till we were
very near them, I was afraid to go to windward of tiie islands, and therefore brought to,
and having made the signal for the |)innace, which was ahead, to come on board, I sent her
to leeward of the islands, with orders to keep along the edge of the shoal, which ran oft' from
the south side of the southernmost island, sending tlie yawl at the Kime time to run over tho
shoal in search of turtle. As soon as the ])innace had got to a profKr distance, wc wore,
and stood after her : as we ran to leeward of this island, we t(M»k the yawl in tow, she
Iiavin" seen only one small turtle, and therefore made but little stay upon the shoal. Tho
island we found to be a small spot of sand with some trees uinm it, and wc could discern
many huts, or habitations of the natives, whom wc supjiosed occasionally to visit these
islands from the main, they being only five leagues distant, to catch turtle when they come
ashore to lay their eggs. We continued to stand after the pinn.icc N-N.E., and N. by K.
for two other low islands, having two shoals without us, and one between us and tlie main.
At noon we were about four leagues from the main, which we saw extending to the north-
ward, as far as X.W. by X., all flat And sandy. Uur latitmle, by oWrvation, was 11 !2.T
S., and our longitude i217^ '!<'' ^^'^• ; our scuindings were fr<»m fourteen to twenty-three
fathom ; but these, as well as the shoals and islands, which are too nimicrous to be ])articu-
larly mentioned, will be best seen upon the chart. By one o'clock wc had run nearly tho
Ien"tli of the soutiiernmost of the two islands in sight, an<I finding that the going to w ind-
w.ird of them would carry us too fiir from tlie main, wc bore up and ran to U-eward, where,
findinnr a fai " passage, we steered N. byW. in a direction parallel to the main, leaving a
small island . lay between it and the ship, and some low sandy i»les and shoals without

us, of all will . lost sight by four o'clock, and saw no more la-fore the sun went down : at
this time the farthest part of tho land in sight bore N.N.W. j AV., and soon after wc
anchored in thirteen fathom, upon soft ground, at the distance of about five leagues from tho
land, where we lay till daylight.

Early in the morning we made sail again, and steered N.X.W. by compass, for the
northernmost land in sight ; and at this time, wc observed the variation of the needle to be
3^ (j K. At eight o'clock wc discovered shoals ahead and on our larboard bow, and saw
(hat the northernmost land, which we had taken for the main, w^as detached from it, and
that we might pass between them, by running to leeward of the shoals on our larboard bow,
which were now near us : we therefore wore and brought to, sending away the pinnace and
yawl to direct us, and then steered N.W. along the S.W. or inside of the sUoals, keeping a
good look-out from the mast-head, and having another sho.il on our larboard side : wc found,
however, a good channel of a mile broad between them, in which we had from ten to four-
teen fathom. At eleven o'clock, wo were nearly the length of the land detached from the
main, and there appeared to be no obstruction in the p.issage between them ; yet, having
the lonf-boat astern and rigged, wc sent her away to keep in -shore upon our larboard bow,
and at the iamc time despatched the pinnace astarboard ; ]irecautions which I thought
necessary, as we had a strong flood that carried us on end very fast, and it was near high
water : as soon as the boats were ahead, we stood after them, and by noon got through
the passage. Our latitude, by observation, was then 10" 30', and the nearest part of the
main, which we soon after found to be tho northernmost, bore W. 2 S., distant between
three or four miles : we found the land, which was detached from the main, to be a single
itsland, extending from X. to N. Ti) E., distant between two and three miles ; at the same
time we saw other islands at a considerable distance, extending from X^. by W. to W.X. W.,
aud behind them another chain of high land, which we judged also to be islands; there
were still other islands, extending as far as N. 7J ^'^•i whicii at this time we took for tho
main.

ifi

Aun. 1770.

( OOKS FIIIST VOVAdK ROUND THE W01U.F>.

Tlio point of tlic main wl.idi forms the «ido (if tlio tliaimi'I tliroiiirli wliiuli wo passt'd,
opixiHite totlic iMi.'iiul, it tin- iioitliorn pmiiKintiiry of tlic ronntry, niul I ciilii'il it Yhhk Cai'i:.
ItM loii^'itudi! '\^ 2\H i»r \y. ; tlic lalitiiilc of tin' nortli point is 10 .'»7', ainl of the i-iist point
10' 12' S. Tin; Inml over liic laxt point, and to tlio sontliward of it, is ratlior low, and as
far a8 tlio oyo tan riaoli, vory Hat. and of a barren appearance. To tlio sontliward of tlio
Cape the slmro forms a larfio ojieii bay, wliicli 1 eallod Xi.wcasti.i: Hay, and in wliicli an^
some Hmall low islands and ^lloals ; tlio land adjacent is also very low, flat, and nandy. 'i'lio
land of tlio iiortliern ]iart of the C'ajio is more liilly, tlio valloys seem to be well tlotlied with
wootl, and the slion; forms sonio small bays, in whieli there apjieared to bo j;ood anehorago.
Clo8(> to the eastern point of the Cape are three small islands, from one of which a small
ledge of rocks rnns out into the sea : there i» also an island close to the northern point. Tlio
island that forms the strait or channel through which we had ])asscd, lies about four miles
without these, whieli, except two, are very small : the southernmost is the lar;;e!<t, and much
higher than any ]iart of the main land. On the north-west side of this island there a]>peared
to ho good anchorage, and on shore, valleys that j)romi8ed both wood and water. Thoso
islands are distinguished in the chart by the name of Yokk Isli:s. To the southward and
south-east, and even to the eastwanl and northward of them, there aro several other low
islands, rocks, and shoals ; our depth of water, in sailing between them and the main, was
twelve, thirteen, and fourteen fathom.

Wo stood along the shore to thu westward, with a gentle breeze at S.E. by S., and when
wo had advance<l between three and four miles, wo discovered the land ahead, which, when
wo first saw it, we took for the main, to bo islands detached from it by several channels.
Upon this wo sent away the boats, with proper instructions, to lead us through that ehamud
which was next the main ; but soon after discovering rocks and shoals in this channel, I made
a signal for the boats to go through the next channel to tho northward, which lay between
these islands, leaving some of them between us and tho main : tho ship followed, ami had
never less than five fathom water in the narrowest part of the channel, where tho distance
from island to island was about one mile and a half.

At four o'clock in the afternoon, wo anchored, being about a mile and a half, or two miles,
%vithin tho entrance, in six fathom and a half, with clear ground : the channel hero had begun
to widen, and tho islands on each side of us wore distant about a mile : tho main land stretched
away to tho S.W., the fartiicst jjoint in view bore S. 4H W., and the southernmost point of
the islands, on the north-west side of the passage, bore S. 7t! W. Between those two jxnnts
wo could sec no land, so that wo conceived liopcs of having, at last, found a passage into the
Indian sea; liowcvcr, that I might be able to determine with more certainty, I resolved to
land upon tho island which lies at the south-east point of the passage. Upon this island
wc had seen many of the inhabitants when we first came to an anchor ; and when I went
into the boat with a party of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr, in order
to go ashore, wc saw ten of them upon a hill : nine of them wore armed with such lances as
we had been used to see, and the tenth had a bow, and a bundle of arrows, which wo had
never seen in the possession of the natives of this country before : we also observed, that two
of them had large ornaments of mother-of-pearl hanging round their necks. Three of these,
one of whom was the bowman, placed themselves upon the beach abreast of us, and wc
expected that they nould have opposed our landing, but when wo came within about a musket's
shot of the beach, they walked leisurely away. Wo immediately climbed the highest hill,
which was not more than three times as high as tho mast-head, and the most barren of any
wo had seen. From this hill, no land could be seen between the S.W. and AV.8.AV., so that
I had no doubt of findin<' a channel throusih. Tlio land to the north-west of it consisted of
a great number of isl.mds of various extent, and ditt'ercut heights, ranged one behind another,
as far to tho northward and westward as I could see, which could not bo less than thirteen
leagues. As I was now about to quit the eastern coast of New Holland, which I had coasted
from latitude '3ii to this place, and which I am confident no European had over seen before,
I onco more lioist<. d English colours, and though I had already taken possession of several
particular parts, I now took possession of tho whole eastern coast, from latitude 38° to this
place, latitude 10^ S., in right of hia Majesty King George the Third, by the name of New

1 %

Ijil ,

T i

i/i^i

i I"

I, a

2'.r.

COOK'S Fill;*'! V<>V.\«:K llOlNn TIIK UOIll.M.

Ai .). 177f>.

(i i

, t

(

StMTll WaM's, Avitli all till' liav!", Iiarhoiirs, riven*, ami iwlaiuls situatt'il upon it: we tlu'ii
find tlirt'c vt'llcjH of Miiiall arms, wliiili win- aii-iwi-ntl hy tlu- Haiiii' luiiiiluT fniiii tin' wliij).
Ilavin;: |i( rriprniid this ((rcinMny iij'i.ii tlu- i^*laii<l, wliich wo callctl I'dssr.ssiiiN I.si.ani>, wo
ninil)ark('il in imr Itoat, Imt a ra|)iil ti»b ti'k- sji-ttiii;: N.I I., iiiailc mir iTtiiiii to tlu; vessel very
(lilVieiilt ami teilious. Kroni tla- time of our la-t eoinin;.' amonj,' tlie Hlioalx, we constantly
founil a nioilerate title, the Hood sittin;; to the N. W.. ami the ehh to the S.lv At this l)lace,
it is hij.'h water at the full an<l change <>f the mo>in, about ■■ne or two v 'clock, and the water
rises ami falls iierpeinlicularly ahoiit twelve ft. t. We sawxmoke rising in manyjilaees from
tlio adjacent lands and islands, as we lia<l done njion every part of tlio coast, after our last
return to it through the reef.

Wo continued at anchor all nii;ht, and Ixtuccn seven and ei'.dit o'clock in tlio morning wo
saw three or four of the natives upun the beach tratheiin'/ shell-fish ; we discovered, by tho
lielp of our glasses, that they were women, and. like all the other inhabitants of this country,
stark naked. At low water, which haj '"ned alMiut ten o'clock, we got under sail, and stood
to tho S.W. with a light breeze at K., which afterwards veered to N. by K. : our depth of
water was from six to ten fathom, except in one jdace, where wo had but five. At noon.
Possession Island bore N. ^iH K., distant fonr Icigues ; the western extremity of the main laml
in sigiit bore S. 4',\ W., distant between four ami five leagues, and ap]>eared to be extriJinoly
low ; the south-west ])()int of the large-t island on the north-west sitle of tho passage bore
N. 71 W., distant eight miles, and thi- point I tailed ('ai*i; C'oknwai.i.. It lies in latitutle
10^ 4;}' fS., longifude 2I!> \V. ; and some low lands that lie about the middle of tho passage,
which I called Wai-i.i.s's Islf.s, bore W. by S. |, .*i.. distant about two leagues: our latitude,
by observation, was 10^ 4(»' S. We continued to advance with the tide of Hood W.N.W.,
having little wind, and from eight to five fathom water. At half an lumr after one, the
])innace, which was ahead, made the signal for shoal water, iipon which we tacked, and sent
away the yawl to sound also : we tlun tacked again, and stood after them : in ab(Uit two
hours, they both made the signal for shoal water, and the tide being nearly at its greatest
height, I was afraid to stand on, as running .-iground at that time might be fatal ; I there-
fore came to an anchor in somewhat less than seven fathom, sandy ground. Wallis's Islands
bore S. by W. }, W., distant five or six miles, the islands to the northward extended from
S. 7'^ E. to N. 10 E., and a small islan<I, which was just in sight, bore N.W. ', W. Hero
we found the flood tide set to the westward, anil the ebb to the eastward.

After wo had come to an anchor, I sent aw.iy the ni.aster in the long-boat to sound, who,
upon his return in tho evening, reported that there was a liank stretching north, and south,
upon which there were but three fathom, and that Ix-yond it there were seven. About this
time it fell calm, and continued so till nine the next morning, when we weighed, with a light
breeze at S.S.K., and steered N.W. by W. f«ir the small island which was just in sight, hav-
ing first sent the boats ahead to sound ; the depth of water was eight, seven, six, five, ami
four fathom, and three fathom upon the bank, it being now tho last quarter ebb. At this
time, tho northernmost islaii<l in siidit bore N. D K.. Cape Cornwall K., distant three leagues,
and Wallis's Isles S. .'{ K., distant three leagues. This bank, at least so much as we have
sounded, extends nearly N. and S., but to what distaiue 1 <lo not know : its breadth is not
more than half a mile at the utmost. Wlun we bad got over the bank, we deepemil our
water to six fathom three quarters, and had the same <li](th all the way to the small islaml
ahead, which wo reached by noon, when it bore .S., distant about half a mile. Our depth of
water was now five fathom, and the northernmost land in sight, which is part of the same
chain of islamls that wo had seen to the n .rthward from tho time of our first entering tho
strait, bore X. 71 !'''• Our latitmle, by observation, was l(( ;{Ji' S., and our longitude
219° 22' W. : in this situation, no ])art of the main was in sight. As we were now near
the island, and had but little wind, Jlr. IVinks and I hiiided ujjon it, and found it, exee|)t a
few ])atches of wood, to bo a barren njck, the baunt of birds, which had frequented it
in such numbers as to make the surflice almost uniformlv white with their dun[r : of these
birds, the greater part seeiiKd to be boobies, and I therefore called tho ])laco IJooitv Tsr.\M».
After a short staj', we returned to the ship, and i:i the mean time the wind had got to tho
8. W. ; it was but a gentle breeze, yet it was accompanied b}- a swell from the same quarter,

Alij. 1770.

COOK'S FIIIST VOVAOK ItorNl) TIlK U'OIILH.

wliifli, witli iitlr r I'IrciiiiistiUiccs?, coiilirinc'd my i)|iiiiiciii tliut wo wcro yot tn tin- westward
(if ('iir])ciitiiri ,, or tlic iKiitluiii ixlninily of New lliill;in>l, an 1 liad now an npcri sea to tlni
wi'Htwanl, wliicli >.ravc nio ;,'i('at Hati^faction, not only liccaufi' tlic <l.iii^'ci's ami fati;;ni's of llio
voyai,'c Were drawing to an rii 1, but bcciUiM' it would no IfinMir l)c a donl)t wlictlicr New
Holland and .\i\v (liiiiica wiic two Hcpaiatc islands, or dilV nut I'arts of tlio sanu'.

'rill! north-cast cntnincc of tliii iiassaj^c or strait, lies in tin- latitude of 10 .'{',(' S., and ii>
tlif loiinituili' of 'JIJI ;{(!' W. It is formed liy tlie main, or tlie iKUtliern ixtremity of New
llollanil, on tlie S.I''., and l>y a eon^( lies of i-iamls, wliieli I called ttie l*iii.\«r. or >V.\i,r.s's
Isi.ANiis, to tlie N.W., and it is iimtialde tliat tliese iNlandf< extend (|uitu to ?>'jw (Juinea.
Tlicy diiVcr very mnv.li liolli in licii,dit and circuit, and many of them Hecnieil to he well clothed
with Iicrl»a;.'c and wood : u|>on most, if not all of them, wo saw smoke, and therefore there
can hu no douht of their liein^ iidiahited: it is also proliahle, that amouiif them there are at
hast as ;^ood passaj^cs as that wo came throu^^h, i)erhaps hotter, thoui^h better would not
need to be desired, if the access to it, from the eastward, were less daiijicrous : that a less
dangerous access may be discovered, 1 think there is little reason to doubt ; and to find it
little more seems to be necessary than to determine how far the principal, or outer reef, which
buuiuls the shoals to the eastward, extends towards the north, w hieh 1 would not have left to
future navi^rators if I had been less hurasaed by dan^'< r and fatigue, and had had a shii) in
better condition for tlui purpose.

To this channel, or ])assa;;<', I have eiveii the naiui' of the ship, and calleil it F-ndkavovh
SrHArr.s. Itslen>j;tli from S.E. to S.W. is ten leajjuoa, and it is about five leaj^ues broad,
except at the north-cast entrance, where it is sonu'what less than two miles, beiiiy contracted
by the islands which lie there. That which I called i'ossession Island is of a ninderato
hciyiit and circuit, and this we left between us and the main, jiassinjj between it and two
small round islantls which lie about two miles to the N.W. of it. The two small i-lands,
which I called Wallis's Islands, lie iu the middle of the south-west entrance, and these wo
left to the southward. Our depth of water in the strait was from four to nine fathom, with
everywhere pood anchorage, except u])on the bank, which lies two leauues to the northward
of Wallis's Islands, where at low water there are but three fathom : for a more particular
knowledjje of this strait, and of the situations of the several islands and shoals on the eastern
coast of New Wales, I refer to the chart, where they are delineated with all the accuracy
that circumstances wouhl admit * ; yet, with respect to the shoals, 1 cannot i)reteiid that one-
half of them are laid down, nor can it bo sujiposed possible that one-half of them should
be discovered iu the course of a sinj^le navij^ation : many islands also must have escaped my
pencil, cspeci.ally between latitude 2U' and 22 , where wo saw islamic out at sea as far as an
island could bo distinjjruished : it must not therefore be supposed, by future navij^ators, that
where no shoal or island is laid down in my chart, no shoal or islaml will bo found iu those
seas : it is cnou;j;h that the situation of those that appear in the chart is faithfully ascertained,
and in fjoneral, 1 have the greatest reason to hope that it will be found as free front error as
any that has not been corrected by subsecpient and successive observations. The latitudes
and lonjiitudes of all, or most of the principal head-lands aiul hays, may bo confided in, for
we selilom failed of j,fettin<j; an observation once at least every day, by which to correct tho
latitude of our reckoninjf, and observations for sottlinif the loii<,'itudo were et|ually numerous,
no opportunity that was oiVered by the suu ami moon boin;f sutFered to escape. It would be
injurious to the memory of Mr. CJreen, not to take this ojiportunity of attesting tluat ho
was indefatigable both iu making observations .and calculating ui)on them ; and that, by his
instructions and assistance, many of tho petty oHicers were enabled both to observe and
calculate with great exactness. This method of liuding tho longitude at sea may be )>ut into
universal practice, and may always be depended ujion within half a degree, which is sutKcient
for all nautical purposes. If, therefore, observing and calculating were considered as necessary
qualifications for every sea officer, the labours of tho speculative theorist to solve this i>roblcm
niight bo remitted, without much injury to mankind : neither will it be so difficult to
acquire this qualification, or put it in practice, as may at first appear ; for, with tho assistance

* A gciicnil innp of New ilulluiid coujpilcd fi'oui tlic best and liilcst aiulmiitics is Eiibstitiitid for the tliait licio
rcfciTud to. — liu.

J r

I KV:

it'']

l \i

258

COOK'S FIRST VOVACJE HOUND THE U'OULD.

Ai o. 1770.

■H

1 'F;

I L

^i\ H

of the nautical almanack, and astronomical cplicmcris, tlic calculations for finding tlie longitude
will take up little niore time than the calculation of an azimuth for finding the variation
of the compass.

cn.VPTEB VI. DEPARTURE FROM NEW SOUTH WALES; A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE

COUNTRY, ITS PRODUCTS, AND PEOPLE : A SPECIMEN OF THE LANGUAGE, AND SOMK
OUSERVATIONS UPON THE CURRENTS AND TIDES.

Of this country, its products, and its people, many particulars have already In en related
in the course of the narrative, being so interwoven with the events as not to admit of a
separation. I shall now give a more full and circumstantial description of each, in which, if
some things should happen to be repeated, the greater part will be found new.

New Holland, or, as I have now called the eastern coast. New South Wales, is of a larger
extent than any other country in tlie known world that does not bear the name of a continent ;
the length of coast along which we sailed, reduced to a straight line, is no less than twenty-
seven degrees of latitude, amounting to near 2(((K) miles, so tliat its square surface must bo
much more than equal to all Europe. To the southward of 33 or 34, the land in general is
low and level ; farther northward it is hilly, but in no part can be called mountainous ;
and the hills and mountains, taken together, make but a small part of the surface, in com-
parison with tiic valleys and plains. It is, u))()n the whole, rather barren than fertile : yet
the rising ground is chequered by woods and lawns, and the pinins and valleys are in many
places covered with herbage : the soil, however, is frequently sandy, and many of the lawns,
or savannahs, are rocky and barren, especially to the northward, where, in the best spots,
vegetation was less vigorous than in the southern part of the country ; the trees were not so
tall, nor was the herbage so rich. The grass in general is high, but thin, and the trees,
where they are largest, are seldom less than forty feet asunder ; nor is the country inland,
as far as we could examine it, better clothed than the sea-coa^t. The banks of the bays are
covered with mangroves, to the distance of a mile within the beach, under which the soil is
a rank mud, that is always overflowed by a spring-tide ; farther in the country we sometimes
met with a bog, upon which the grass was very thick and luxuriant, and sonutimes with a
valley, that was clothed with underwood : the soil in some parts seemed to be capable of
improvement, but the far greater i>art is such as can admit of no cultivation. The coast, at
least that part of it which lies to the nortliward of 2;V S., abounds with fine bays and
liarbours, where vessels may lie in jierfect security from all winds.

If wc may judge by the appearance of the country while we were there, which was in
the very height of the dry season, it is well watered : wc found innumerable small brooks
and springs, but no great rivers ; tiiesc brooks, however, probably become large in the rainy
season. Thirsty Sound was the only place where fresh water was not to be procured for the
ship, and even there one or two small pools were found in the woods, though the face of the
country was everywhere intersected by salt creeks and mangrove land.

Of trees, there is no great variety. Of those that could be called timber, there are but
two sorts : the largest is the gum-tree, which grows all over the country, and has been men-
tioned already' : it has narrow leaves, not much unlike a willow; and tlie gum, or rather
resin, which it yields, is of a deeji red, and resembli's the mw/iiis Jracottis; possibly it may
be the same, for tliis substance is known to be the produce of more than one jdant. It is
mentioned by Dampier, and is i)erhaps the same that Tasman found upon Diemen's
Land, where he says he saw "gum of the trees, and gum lac of the grouml." Tlie other
timber tree is that whieli grows soiiiewhat like our jiiiies, and has been particularly men-
tioned in the account of IJotaiiy I'ay. Tito wood of both these trees, as I have bi'fore
remarked, is extremely hard and luavy. Besides these, here are trees covered with a soft bark
that is e.Tsily peeled oil', and is the same that in the East Indies is used for the calking of ships *.

* Tliis tree liclmi;;'; to tlic pciuis Euciili/ptils. Two in pieces of llie largo size usually roqiiiicil. Tlie several

s:><ries kiimvii liy tlic enldiiists as " Striii'.'y bark" and uses to wliicli it ii> applieJ by the natives are noticed

" IJt).\no(ul," lint more particiilnrly tlic Imiiicr, arc |iie. hereafter. — 1'^d.
ftired, a? IVuni them the bark is uioro readilv stiliiped

^= !«

Alo. irro.

(OOK'S FIIIST V()YA<JK KOUM) TIIK WOKI-D.

2.V.t

"Wc found lioro tlio piiliii of tlireo iliiVcioi'.t sorts. TIic first, wliicli grows in groat jihnty
to tlio southwarcl, has leaves tliat are ])latteil like a fun : tlie cabbage of tbese is small, but
extjuisitely sweet ; and tlie nuts, wliieli it bears in great abiiudanee, arc very good food for
liogs. The seeond sort 1 .)re a niucli greater resend)laneo to tlio true cabbage-tree of tbo
West Indies; its leaves were large and ])ini)ated, like those of the cocoa-nut; and these also
])rodueed a cabbage, which, though not so sweet as the other, was niueh larger. The third
sort, which, like the second, was found only in the northern jiarts, was seldom more than
ten feet high, with small i);nnated leaves, re;-.enibling those of some kind of fern : it bore no
cabbage, but a i)leutiful crop of nuts, about the size of u large cliesnut, but roinider. As v e
found the hulls of these scattered round the ])laces where the Indians had made their fires,
we took for granted that they were lit to eat ; those, however, who made the experiment,
paid dear for their knowledge of the contrary, for they <)])erated both as an emetic and
cathartic with great viohiu e. Still, however, wo niade no iloulit but that they were eati n
by the Indians; and, juilging that the constitution t)f the hogs might be as strong as theirs,
though our own had j)roved to be so much inferior, we carried them to the sty; the hogs ato
them, indeed, and for some time, we thought, without suffering any inconvenience; but in
about a week they were so much disordered, thil two of them died, and the rest were
recovered with great dilticnlty. It is probable, however, that the ))oisonous quality of these
iiuts may lie in the juice, like that of the cassada of tiic West Indies; and that t!ie pulp,
when dried, may bo not only wholesome, but nutritious. IJesides those species of tho i)alni
and mangroves, there were several small trees and shrubs altogether unknown in Eurojie,
particularly one which produced a very jioor kind of tig; another that bore what we called
a plum, which it resend)led in colour, but not in shape, being 'hit on the sides like a little
cheese ; and a third, that boro a kind of jjurple apjde, which, after it had been kept a few
days, became eatable, and tasted somewhat like a damson.

Here is a groat variety of jdants to enrich the collection of a botanist, but very few of
them arc of tho esculent kind. A small plant, with long, narrow, grassy leaves, resembling
that kind of bulrush which in England is called the Cat's-tail, yields a resin of a bright
yellow colour, exactly resembling gamboge, except that it does not stain ; it lias a swoet
smell, but its ])ro))erties we had no o])portunity to discover, any more than those of many
others with which the natives appear to be acquainted, as they have distinguished tlioni
by names.

I have already montioneil tho root and loaves of a plant resembling the cocco of the West
Indies, and a kind of bean ; to which may be added, a sort of parsley and purslain, and two
kinds of yams, one shaped like a radish, and the other round, and covered with stringy
fibres : both sorts are very small, but sweet ; and wc never could find the plants that
produced them, though we often saw the places where they had been newly dug u]) ; it is
probable that the drought liad destroyed the leaves, and wc could not, like tho Indians,
discover them by tlie stalks.

Most of tho fruits of this country, such as tliey are, have been mentioned already. Wo
found one in the southern part of the country resembling a cherry, except that the stone
was soft ; and another, not unlike a junc-applo in ai)poar."'.iOe, but of a very disagreeable
taste, which is well known in tho East Indies, and is called by the Dutch Vim Aj>pel
Boomcn.

Of the nuadrupeds, I have already mentioned the dog, and particularly described the
kanguroo, and the animal of the opossum kind, resembling the phalanger of BufVon ; to
which lean add only cmc more, resembling a polecat, which tho natives call Quoll ; the
hack is brown, spotted with white, and the belly white unmixed. Several of our people
said they had seen wolves ; but, ]>erhajis, if wc had not seen tracks that favoured the account,
we might have thought them little more worthy of credit than ho who reported that ho had
seen the devil.

Of bats, which hold a middle place between the beasts and the birds, wo saw many kinds,
])articularly one which, as I have observed already, was larger than a jiartridgc ; we were
not fortunate enough to take one either alive or dead, but it was supposed to Lc the same
i ■ Buft'on has described by tho name of liouset or Kouji't.

ii 't.

2C.0

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

A to. 1770.

!;/ .

! ;

, ,, I

Tlio sea and other water-fowl of thifi country, arc gulls, sliagg?, solan geese, or gannets,
of two sorts ; boohiea, noddies, curlews, ducks, ]>elicans of an enormous size, and many
others. Tiic land-birds arc crows, parrots, i)ar()quet% cockatoos, and other birds of the
same kind, of exquisite beauty; j)igeons, doves, quails, bustards, herons, cranes, hawks, and
eagles. Tlic pigeons flew in numerous flocks, so that, notwithstanding their extreme
shyness, our people frequently killed ten or twelve of them in -x day: these birds arc very
beautiful, and crested very differently from any we had seen before.

Among other reptiles, here arc serpents of various kinds some noxious, and some
harndess ; scorpions, centipedes, and lizards. The insects are but few. The i)rincipal arc
the mosquito and the ant. Of the ant there are several sorts ; sonic arc as green as a leaf,
and live upon trees, where they build their nests of various sizes, between that of a man's
head and his fist. These nests an; of a very curious structure : they are formed by bending
down several of the leaves, each of which is as broad as a man's hand, and gluing the points
of them togetlier, so as to form a purse; the viscus used for this purpose, is an animal juice,
■which nature has enabled them to elaborate. Their method of first bending down the
leaves, we had not an opportunity to observe ; but we saw thousands uniting all their strength
to hold tiiem in this position, while other busy multitudes were employed within, in applying
the gluten that was to prevent their returning back. To satisfy ourselves that the leaves
were bent, and held down by the effort of these diminutive artificers, ive disturbed them in
their work, and as soon as they were driven from tlieir station, the leaves on which they
were employed, sprung up with a force much greater than we could have thought them able
to conquer by any combination of tlieir strength. But, though we gratified our curiosity
at their expense, the injury did not go unrevengcd ; for thousands immediately threw
themselves upon us, and gave us intolerable pain with their stings, especially those who took
possession of our necks and our hair, from whence they were not easily driven : the sting
was scarcely less painful than that of a bee ; but, except it was repeated, the pain did not
last more than a minute.

Another sort are quite black, and their operations and manner of life arc not less extra-
ordinary. Their habitations are tlic inside of the branches of a tree, which they contrive to
excavate by working out the pith alv.iost to the extremity of the slenderest twig ; the tree
at the same time flourishing, as if it had no such inmate. When we first found the tree
we gathered some of the branches, and were scarcely less astonished than we shonld have
been to find that we had profaned a consecrated grove, where every tree, ujion being wounded,
gave signs of life ; for we were instantly covered with legions of these anim.ils, swarming
from every broken bough, and inllieting their stings with incessant violence. They arc
mentioned by Rumpliius in his Ilcylarltim Amboiiniur, vol. ii. ]i. 2"»7 ; but the tree '" which
lie saw their dwelling is very different from tiiat in which wc found them.

A third kind wc found nested in the root of a plant, which grows on the bark of trees in
the manner of mistletoe, and which they had perforated for that use. This root is commonly
as big as a large turnip, and sometimes much bigger : when we cut it wc found it inter-
sected by innumerable winding passages, all filled with these animals, by which, however,
the vegetation of the jjlant did not ai)pear to have suffered any injury. We never cut one of
these roots that was not inhabited, 'bouijh some were not bigger than a hazel-nut. The animals
themselves are very small, not more than iialf as big as the common red ant in England. They
had stings, but scarcely force enough to make them felt ; they had, however, a power of
tormenting us in an equal, if not a greater decree ; for the moment wc handled the root,
they swarmed from innumerable holes, and running about those parts of the body that were
uncovered, produced a titillation more intolerable than pain, except it is increased to great
violence. Rumpliius has also given an account of this bulb and its inhabitants, vol. vi.
p. 120, where he mentions another sort that arc black.

Wo found a fourth kind, which are perfectly harmless, and almost exactly resemble the
white ants of the East Indies ; the architecture of these is still more curious than that of the
others. They have houses of two sorts ; one is suspended on the branches of trees, and the
other erected upon the ground : those upon the trees are about three or four times as big as
a man's head, and arc built of a brittle substance, which seems to consist of small parts of

Ai'o. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLl).

2GI

vegetables kneaded together with a ghitinous matter, which tlu-ir bodies probably supply ;
upon breaking this crust, innumerable cells, swarming with inhabitants, appear in a great
variety of winding directions, all communicating with each other, and with several apertures
that lead to other nests upon the same tree ; they liave also one large avenue, or covered
way, leading to the ground, and carried on under it to the other nest or house that is con-
structed there. This hojise is generally at the root of a tree, but not of that upon which
their other dwellings aro constructed : it is fornnd like an irregularly sided cone, and some-
times is more than six feet high, and nearly as much in diameter. Some arc smaller ; and
these are generally flat -sided, and very mucJi resemble in figure the stones which arc seen in
many parts of England, and sujtposcd to Ik; tlie remains of druidical antiijtiity. The out^ide
of these is of well-tempered clay, aljout two inchc-s thick ; and within are the cells, which
have no opening outwards, but communicate only with the subterranean way to the houses
on the tree, and to the tree near which they arc constructed, where they ascend up the root,
and so up the trunk and branches, under covered ways of the same kind as those by which
they descended from their other dwellings. To these structures on the ground they jiro-
bably retire in the winter, or rainy seasons, as they are proof against any wet that can full ;
which those in the tree, though generally constructed under some overhanging branch, from
the nature and thinness of their crust or wall, cannot be.

The sea in this country is much more liberal of food to the inhabitants than the land ;
and though fish is not quite so plenty here as they generally are in higher latitudes, yet wo
seldom hauled the tcine without taking from fifty to two hundred weight. They arc of
various sorts ; but except the mullet, and sonic of the shellfish, none of them are known in
Europe : most of them arc palatable, and some are very delicious. Upon the shoals and
reef there arc incredible numbers of the finest green turtle in the world, and oj'sters of
various kinds, particularly the rock-oyster and the pearl-oyster. The gigantic cockles havo
been mentioned already; besides which there arc sea-crayfish, or lobsters*, and crabs; of
these, however, we saw only the shells. In the rivers and salt creeks there are alligators.

The only person who has hitherto given any account of this country or its inhabitants is
Dampier ; and though he is, in general, a writer of credit, yet in '.nany pari'.iulars ho is
mistaken. The people whom he saw were indeed inhabitants of a part of the coast very
distant from that which wc visited ; but wc also saw inhabitants upon parts of the coast
very distant from each other ; and there being a perfect uniformity in person and customs
among them all, it is reasonable to conclude that distance in another direction has not
considerably broken it.

The number of inhabitants in this conniry appears to be very sniiill . proportion to its
extent. Wc never saw so many as thirty of them together but once, and that was at
Botany Bay, when men, women, and children, assembled npon a rock to see the shij) pass
by : when they manifestly formed a resolution to engage us, they never could muster above
fourteen or fifteen fighting men, and we never saw a number of tlieir sheds or houses together
that could accommodate a larger party. It is true, indeed, that we saw only the sea-coast
on the eastern side ; and that, between this and the western shore, there is an immense tract
of country wholly unexplored : but there is great reason to believe that this immense tract
is either wholly desolate, or at least still more thinly inhabited than the parts wc visited. It
is impossible that the inland country >hould sub^i-t inhabitants at all seasons without cidti-
vation : it is extren "ly improbable tliat the inhabitants of the coast should be totally ignorant
of arts of cultivation, which were pract!^ed inland; and it is equally improbable that, if they
knew such arts, there should be no traces of them anions them. It is certain that we did

i i

* A small ami now species of lobster, whiili ii very
ik'lieious ci.ting, is found in tlie Yas Rivi;-, ami in tlic
muddy ponds on the Vas plMins. These are e.illeil lij the
aborigines Afiirni/nnnn. Tliey biirriuv deep into llio
niud. In the IMnnninhidr;u, Yas, Tiiiuaa, and other
lai'pe rivers, there is a ililferent ami larger sprci^s of l.iUtcr,
which is fieqnently fonnd in the ftoin:ichs of the rivrr-co«l.
Tliis kind is called Mitnijola by the native* : ;inl they art"
'.iptured nieasniing a foot ami a fiot ami a half in Ion;tli.

and wcj^liinz three or fonr pounds. Tn l^Faicli the season
comiii Alices at Sydney for craylish, wliich are eaniilit in
lar^e <|Uantiiicf. juid id' enormous si/.e, ahuut the sea-coast,
and ai« hawked about the street at a cheap rate: thus
in this colony craylibh abound in the sea, and l(d>ster9 in
the river — the reverse of the ease at home. — See " Jii'n-
neti'f Wanderincs iu Xew Soutli Wales," vol, i, p,
21'.— Kd.

' it

^BPRTT

203

C(»OKS FIRST VOYAC.E ROUND THE WORLD.

Ai.i. 1770.

not sec one foot of proniul in a state of cultivation in the wliolc country, and tlicrofore it
may wt-ll be coiiclinlid, that where the sea does not contribute to feed the inhabitants, the
country is not inliabited.

Tlie only tribe with whiclj we liad any intercourse we found where the sliip was careened ;
it consisted of one-and-twenty persons, twelve men, seven women, one boy, and one girl :
the women wc never saw but at a distance, for when tlie men came over the il-er thoy were
always left behind. The men, here and in other places, were of a middle size, and in general
well made, clean -linibed, and remarkably vigorous, active, and nimble : their countenances
were not altogetlier without expn'ssi(ui, and their voices were remarkably soft and eft'eminatc.

Their skins were so uniformly covered with dirt, that it was very difficult to ascertain
their true colour : we made several attemi>ts, by wetting our fingers and rubbing it, to
remove the incrustations, but with very little effect. With the dirt, tliey appear nearly as
black as a negro, and according to our best discoveries, the fkin itself is of the colour of
wood soot, or what is commonly called a chocolate colour. Their features are far from
being disagreeable ; their noses are not flat, nor are their lips thick ; their teeth are white
and even, and their hair naturally long and black, it is, however, universally cropped short;
in general, it is straight, but sometimes it has a slight curl ; wc saw none that was not
matted and filthy, though without oil or grease, and to our great astonishment free from
lice. Their beards were of the same colour with their hair, and bushy and thick ; they arc
not, however, sulfered to grow long. A man, whom we had seen one day with his beard
somewhat longer than his companions, wc saw the next with it somewhat shorter, and uj)on
examination found the ends of the hairs burnt ; from this incident, and our having never
seen any sharp instrument among them, we concluded that both the hair and the beard were
kept short by singeing them.

il Idif

]\ r

I <! I ; ■

MKlD', OF NKH 1101 LWnms, NATIOs OF MtNI-VM. HALF ANDFFMALF.
/ Thf M<in in-iirx Ihe X 'St- ftfnimiint ilt'xri'ihul hi tin- 7V.|7. f

T$oth sexes, as I have already ol>served, go stark naked, and seem to have no more sense
of indecency in discovering the wiiole body, than we have in discovering our hands and
f ice. Tlu'ir principal ornament is the bone, which they thrust through the cartilage that
divides the nostrils from each otlnr. Whiit perversion of tnste could make tiiem think this
a decoration, or what could prompt tluni, beCore they had worn it or sein it worn, to suffer
the pain and iueonvenience that must of necessity attend it, is perhaps beyond the power of
liuman sagacity to determine. As this bone is as thick as a man's finger, and between five
and six inches long, it reaches quite across the face, and so effectually stops up both the
nostrils, that iliey arc forced t<i keep their mouths wide open for breath, and snuffle so
wiicn they attempt 10 sjieak, t!i:it they are seareely intelligible even to each other. Our

A 10. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

203

seamen, with some liuninur, called it tlii-ir spritsail-yard ; and, indeed, it liad so ludicrous
an ajipearance, that till wo were used to it, we found it difficult to refrain from laughter,
lieside this nose jewel, they had necklaces made of shells, very neatly cut and strung
together ; bracelets of small cord, wound two or three times about the upper part of their
arm, and a string of plaited human hair about as thick as a thread of yarn, tied round the
waist. Besides these, some of thorn had gorgets of shells liangiug round the neck, so as to
reach across the breast*. But though these i)eo])lo wear no clothes, their bodies have a
covering besides the dirt, for they paint them both white and red : the red is commonly laid
on in broad patches upon the shoulders and breast, and the white in stripes, some narrow,
and sonic broad : the narrow were drawn over the limbs, and the broad over the body, not
without sonic degree of taste. The white was also laid on in small patches upon the face,
and drawn in a circle round each eye. The red seemed to be ochre, but what the white was
we could not discover : it was close-grained, saponaceous to tlie touch, and alnmst as heavy
as white lead ; possibly it might bo a kind of Steatites, but to our great regret we could not
procure a bit of it to examine. They have holes in their ears, but we never saw any
thing worn in them. Upon such ornaments as they had, they set so great a value, that
they would never part with iho least article for anything we could offer ; which was the
more extraordinary, as our beads and ribbons weie ornaments of the same kind, but of a
more regular form and more showy materials. They had, indeed, no idea of traffic, nor
could we coniniunicato any to them : they received the things that we gave them, but never
appeared to understand our signs when we required a return. The same indifference which
prevented them from buying what we had, prevented them also from attempting to steal :
if they had coveted more, they would have been less honest ; for when we refused to give
them a turtle, they were enraged, and attempted .to take it by force, and we had nothing
else upon which they seemed to set the least value ; for, as I have before observed, many of
the things that we had given them we found left negligently about in the woods, like the
playthings of children, which please only while they arc new. Upon their bodies we saw
no marks of disease or sores, but large scars in irregular linos, which appeared to be the
remains of wounds which they had inflicted upon themselves with some blunt instrument,
and w liich we understood by signs to have been meniori.als of grief for the dead.

They appeared to have no fixed habitations, for we saw nothing like a town or village in
the whole country. Their houses, if houses they may be called, seemed to be formed with
less art and industry than any we had seen, except the wretched hovels at Terra del Fuego,
and in some respects they are inferior even to them. At Botany Bay, where they were
best, they were just high enough for a man to sit upright in, but not largo enough for him
to extend himself in his whole length in any direction : they arc built with pliable rods
about as thick as a man's finger, in the form of an oven, by sticking the two ends into the
ground, and then covering them with palm-leaves and broad pieces of bark : the door is
nothing but a large hole at one end, opposite to which the fire is made, as we perceived by
the ashes. Under these houses, or sheds, they sleep, coiled up with their heels to their
head, and in this position one of them will hold three or four persons. As we advanced
northward, and the climate became warmer, we found these shells still more slight : they
were built, like the others, of twigs, and covered with bark ; but none of them were more
than four feet deep, and one side was entirely open : the close side was always opposed to
the course of the prevailing wind, and opposite to the open side was the fire, probably more
as Q. defence from the mosquitoes than the cold. Under those hovels it is probable that they
thrust only their heads and the u)iper part of their bodies, extending their feet towards the
fire. They were set np occasionally by a wandering horde in any place that would furnish
them for a time with subsistence, and left behind them when, after it was exhausted, they

* Captain Kinjr, in liis Survey of Australia, vol. i.
p. I.i7, savs, " In ono of tlic liuts, wliicli was of a iiioro
t'lliptieal tliajM-, and of larijcr ilinicnBioiis than the other,
wni a bunch of hair tliat iiail been recently rhppcil from
either the hcitl or beard. This proves that these opera-
tions arc not done solely hy fire, as Captain Couk sup-

posed, hut hy means of a sharp-edged shell, which must he
both tedious and painful to enduie ; and we have oficii
witnessed (lie delight shown by the natives at the spcidy
effect a pair of scissors has produced upon the beard or
hair."

I lU

iLii
m

.^' -1

':<! r.. ^

81 '

2rt4

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

AiG. 1770.

S !

went away ; but in places where they remained only for a night or two, tlicy slept withont
any shelter, except the bushes or grass, which is here near two feet high. Wc observed,
however, that tlionjih the sleeping huts, which wc foiind upon the main, were always turned
from the prevailing wind, those upon the islands were turned towards it ; which seems to
be a proof that tiiey have a mild season here, during which the sea is calm, and that the
same weather which enables them to visit the islands makes the air welcome even while
they sleej).

The only furniture belonging to these houses that fell under our observation is a kind of
oblong vessel made of bark, by the simple contrivance of tying up the two ends with a
withy, which not being cut off serves for a handle ; these we imagined were used as buckets
to fetch water from the spring, which may be suppo!<ed sometimes to bo at a considerable
distance. They have, however, a small l)ag, about the size of a moderate cabbage-net,
which is made by laying threads loop within loop, somewhat in the manner of knitting
used by our ladies to make purses. This bag the man carries loose upon bis back by a
small string which passes over his head ; it generally contains a lump or two of paint and
resin, some fish-hooks ami lines, a shell or two, out which their hooks are made, a few
points of darts, and their usual ornaments, which includes the whole worldly treasure of the
richest man among them.

Their fish-hooks are very neatly made, and some of them are exceedingly small. For
striking turtle tic.'y have a peg of wood which is about a foot long, and very well bearded ;
tills fits into a socket at the end of a sta.'V of light wood, about as thick as a man's wrist,
and about seven or eitdit feet lonjr : to the staff is tied one end of a loose lino about three or
four fathom long, the other end of which is fastened to the peg. To strike the turtle, the
peg is fixed into the socket, and when it has entered his body, and is retained there by the
barb, the staff flies off, and serves for a float to trace their victim in the water ; it assists
also to tire him, till they can overtake bim with their canoes, and haul him ashore. One
of these pegs, as I have mentioned already, we found buried in th' 1 ody of a turtle, which
had healed up over it. Their lines arc fronj the thickness of a half-inch rope to the fineness
of a hair, and are made of some vegetable substance, but what in particular wo had no
opportunity to learn*.

Their food is chiefly fish, though they sometimes contrive to kill the kangm-oo, and even
birds of various kinds ; notwithstanding, they arc so shy that wc found it difticult to get
within reach of them with a fowling-piece. The only vegetable that can be considered
as an article of food is the yam j yet doubtless they eat the several fruits which have
been mentioned among other jiroductions of the country ; and indeed we saw the shells and
liulls of several of them lying about the places where they had kindled their fire.

They do not a)>pear to eat any animal food raw ; but having no vessel in which water can
be boiled, they either broil it upon the coals, or bake it in a hole by the help of hot stones,
in the same manner as is practised by the inhabitants of the islands in the South Seas.

Whether they are acquainted with any ])lant that has an intoxicating quality, wc do not
know ; but we observed that several of tiiem held leaves of some sort constantly in their
mouths, as a European does tobacco, aiul an East Indian betel : wc never saw the plant,
but when they took it from their mouths at our request ; possil)ly it might be a species of
the betel, but whatever it was, it had no effect upon the teeth or the lips.

As they have no nets, they catch fish only by striking, or with a hook and line, except
such as they find in the hollows of the rocks and shoals, which are dry at half ebb.

Their manner of hunting wc had no opjjortunity to see ; but we conjectured by the
notches which they had everywhere cut in large trees in order to climb them, that they
took their station near the tojis of them, and there watched for such animals as might
happen to pass near enough to be reached by their lances : it is jjossible, also, that in this
situation they might take birds when they came to roost.

* Captain King Lis the following note upon tliis pas- Tlic ica<UT «ill lii-rc ircoanisc in tiiis instrument, a stiil;-

lagc : " Tlic ahove nietliod difTers only from that used liy inp icsinililaiuo to tlie imnnk anil kalleelik, the weapons

tlie natives of Rorkiiijiliani Bay and C'a])c Klliidcis, in wliicli Cai.tiiiii Parry dc-irilics the Esquimanx to Ube in

that the Hoat is anotlirr pierc of li(.'ht hno\aiit Wixmi — tlic i-|i(aiinj; the seal and whale." — King's Suivcy of the

itarf being retainer! >n the hand when ihe liiiil.' is snii(l<. I'imsIh of ,\iis:ialia, vol. i, p. 210.

1770.

Aio. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND T'lE WORLD.

205

I liavo observed tliat wlicn tlicy wont from our tents upon tlio banks of Endeavour Kivcr,
we could trace tliom by the fires which they kindled in their way ; and wc imagined that
these fires were intended some way for the taking the kanguroo, wliich we observed to bo
80 much afraid of fire, that our dogs could scarcely force it over places which had been
newly burnt, thougli the fire was extinguislied.

Tiiey produce fire with great facility, and spread it in a wonderful manner. To produce
it they take two pieces of dry soft wood, one is a stick about eight or nine inches long,
the ot!<er piece is flat : the stick they shape into an obtuse point at one end, and pressing it
upon the other, turn it nimbly by holding it between both their hands as wc do a chocolate
mill, ofien shifting tlieir hands up, and then moving them down upon it, to increase the
pressure as nuich as possible. By tiiis method they get fire in less tiian two minutes, and
from the smallest spark, they increase it witli great speed and dexterity. We have often
seen one of them run along the shore, to all appearance with nothing in his band, who
stooping down for a moment, at the distance of every fifty or hundred yards, left fire behind
him, as we could see first by the smoke, and then by the flame among the drift wood, and
other litter which was scattered along the place. We had the curiosity to examine one of
these planters of fire, when ho set oft", and wc saw him wrap up a small spark in dry grass,
which, when he had run a little way, having been fanned by the air that his motion [)ro-
duced, began to blaze ; he then laid it down in a place convenient for his purpose, inclosing
a spark of it in another quantity of grass, and so continued his course.

Tiiero are perhaps few things in the history of mankind more extraordinary than the
discovery and application of fire : it will scarcely be disputed that the manner of producing
it, whether by collision or attrition, was discovered by chance : but its first eflFects would
naturally strike those to whom it was a new object witli consternation and terror : it would
appear to be an enemy to life and nature, and to torment and destroy whatever was capable
of being destroyed or tormented ; and therefore it seems not easy to conceive what should
incline those who first saw it receive a transient existence from chance, to reproduce it by
design. It is by no means probable that those who first saw fire approached it with the
same caution as those who arc familiar with its effects, so as to be warmed only, and not
burnt ; and it is reasonable to think that the intolerable pain which, at its first appearance,
it must produce upon ignorant curiosity, would sow perpetual enmity between this element
and mankind ; and that the same principle which incites them to crush a serpent would
incite them to destroy fire, and avoid all means by which it would be produced, as soon as
they were known. These circumstances considered, bow men became sufficiently fimiiliar
with it to render it useful seems to be a problem very difiicidt to solve : nor is it easy to
account for the first application of it to culinary purposes, as the eating both animal and
vegetable food raw must have become a habit before there was fire to dress it, and those
who have considered the force of habit will readily believe, that to men who had always
eaten the flesh of animals raw, it would be as disagi'ceable dressed, as to those who have
always eaten it dressed, it would be raw. It is remarkable that the inhabitants of Terra
del Fucgo produce fire from a spark by collision, and tliat the hai)pier natives of this country.
New Zealand, and Otaheite, produce it by the attrition of one combustible substance against
another : is there not, then, some reason to suppose that these difterent operations corre-
spond with the manner in which chance produced fire in the neighbourhood of the torrid and
frigid zones ? Among the rude inhabitants of a cold country, neither any operation of art,
or occurrence of accident, could bo supposed so easily to produce fire by attrition, as in a
climate where everything is hot, dry, and adust, teeming with a latent fire which a slight
degree of motion was suflicient to call forth ; in a cold country, therefore, it is natural to
suppose that fire was produced by the accidental collision of two metallic substances, and in
a cold country, for that reason, the same expedient was used to produce it by design : but
in hot countries, where two combustible substances easily kindle by attrition, it is probable
that the attrition of such substances first produced fire, and here it was therefore natural for
jirt to adopt the same operation, with a view to produce the same effect. It may indeed bo
true that fire is now produced in many cold countries by attrition, and in many hot by a
stroke ; but perhaps upon inquiry there may appear reason to conclude that this has arisen

i' ]

\¥i

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THK M'ORLD.

Arc. 1770.

* ' I

■ ?

from tlio commnnicatiun of one country with anotlicr, and that witli respect to the original
])r(>(Iiioti(>n of fire in Iiot and cold countries, the dii^tinction is well founded.

There may jicrhaps he some reason to siipjioso tliat men hecanic grachially acquainted
with the nature and effects of fire, hy its permanent existence in a vok-ano, there heing
remains of volcanoes, or vestiges of their effects, in almost every part of the world: by a
volcano, however, no method of producing fire, otherwise than hy contact, could bo learnt ;
the production and application of fire, therefore, still seem to afford abundaitt subject of
speculation to the curious.

The weapons of these people arc spears or lances, and these are of different kinds : some
that we saw upon the southern ))art of the coast had four jirongs, pointed with bone, and
barbed ; the points were also smeared with a hard resin, which gave them a polish, and
made them enter deeper into what tliey struck. To the northward, the lance has but
one point : the shaft is made of cane, or the stalk of a ])lant Bomewhivt resembling a bulruslu
very straight and light, and from eight to fourteen feet long, consisting of several joints, where
the pieces arc let into each other, and bound together ; to this are fitted points of different
kinds; some arc of hard heavy wood, and some arc the bones of fish : we saw several that
were pointed witli the stings f the sting-ray, the largest that they could procure, and barbed
with several that were smalL •, fastened on in a contrary direction ; tlie points of wood were
also sometimes armed with siiarp pieces of broken shells, which were stuck in, and at the
junctures covered with resin : the lances that are thus liarhed are indeed dreadful weapons ;
for wlien once they have taken place, they can never bo drawn back without tearing away
the flesh, or leaving the sharp ragged splinters of the bone or shell which fonns the beard
behind them in the wound. These, weapons are thrown with great force and dexterity : if
intended to wound at a short distance, between ten and twenty yards, simply with the hand;
but if at the distance of forty or fifty, with an instrument which wc called a throwing
stick. This is a plain smooth piece of a hard reddish wood, very highly polished, about two
inches broad, half an inch thick, and three feet long, with a small knob, or hook at one end,
and a cross piece about three or four inches long at the other : the knob at one end is received
in a small dent or hollow, which is made for that purpose in the siiaft of the lance near the
point, but from which it easily slips, upon heing impelled forward : when the lance is laid
along upon this machine, and secured in a proper position by the knob, the person that is
to throw it holds it over his shoulder, and after shaking it, delivers both the throwing-stick
and lance with all his
force ; but the stick be-
ing stopped by the cross
piece which comes against
the shoulder, with a sud-
den jerk, the lance flies
forward with incredible
swiftness and with sonrood
an aim, tliat at the dis-
tance of fifty yards these
Indians were more sure
of tlieir mark than wc
could be with a single
bullet. Besides these
lances, we saw no offen-
sive weapon upon this
coast, except when we
took our last view of it
with our glasses, and then
we thought we saw a man

with a bow and arrows, in which it is possible wc might be mistaken*. We saw, how-
ever, at Botany Bay, a shield or target of an oblong shape about three feet long and eighteen

* Dr. Ilawkcswoitli Ijcic forgot the Doomcrnng wliicli is mcnlioiicil pngc 205. — I''d.

NRW IIOLLANDKIl IJSINO TUP TIIROWINC-STICK.

Aid. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAdE ROUND Till-: M'ORLD.

2(1'

inelies broad, wliicli w:.,s uindo of tho bark of a tree : tliis was fetilud out of a Imt by one

of till

v\\o, when bo ran awav, left it bebiiul liim, ami

KF.W HOLLAND MIIELD.

no men tliat opposed our laiubiig, who, when
upon taking it up, we found tliat it bad been piereed
tbrougb witii a single pointed lance near tlie centre.
Tliese sbields are certainly in frequent u^e among
the j)eople hero ; for tliougli this was the only one
that we saw in their possession, we frequently found
trees from which they appeari d manifestly to have
been cut, the marks being easily distinguished from
those that were made by cutting buckets : some-
times also we found tlic shields cut out, but not yet
taken ofF from the tree, the edges of the bark oul}
being a little raised by wedges, so that these jieople
appear to have discovered that the bark of a tree
becomes thicker and stronger by being sulVered
to remain upon the trunk after it has been cut
round.

The canoes of New Holland are as mean and
rude as the houses. Those on the southern part
of the coast are nothing more than a ])ieee of bark, about twelve feet long, tie-^ together
at the ends, and kept ojien in the middle by small bows of wood : yet in a vessel of this
construction we once saw three peiqile. In shallow water they are set forward by a pole,
and in deeper by paddles, about eighteen inches long, one of which the boatman holds in each
band ; mean as they are, they have many conveniences, they draw but little water, and they
are very light, so that they go u|)on mud banks to pick up shellfish, the most important use
to which they can be ap[)lied, better perhaps than vessels of any other construction. We
observed, that in the middle of these canoes there was a heap of sea-weed, and upon that a
small fire ; probably that the fish may be broiled and eaten the moment it is caught.

The canoes that we saw when we advanced farther to the northward, are not made of
bark, but of the trunk of a tree hollowed, jierhaps by fire. They are about fourteen feet
long, and, being very narrow, arc fitted with an outrigger to prevent their oversetting.
These are worked with paddles, that are so large as to require both bands to manage one of
them : the outside is wholly unmarked by any tool, but at each end the wood is left longer
at the top than at the bottom, so that there is a projection beyond the hollow part resem-
bling the end of a plank ; the sides are tolerably thin, but how the tree is felled and fashioned,
we bad no opportunity to learn. The only tools that we saw among them are an adze,
wretchedly made of stone, some small pieces of the same substance in form of a wedge, a
wooden mallet, and some shells and fragments of coral. For polishing their throwing-sticks,
and the points of their lances, they use the leaves of a kind of wild fig-tree, which bites u])on
wood almost as keenly as tlie shave-grass of Europi', which is used by our joiners : with
such tools, the nuiking even such a canoe as I have described must be a most difficult and
tedious labour : to those who have been accustomed to the nse of metal, it appears altogether
iinpracticablc ; but there are few diflleulties that will not yield to patient perseverance ; and
be who does all be can will certainly produce efiects that greatly exceed his a])parent power.
The utmost freight of these canoes is four people ; and if nu)re at any time wanted to
come over the river, one of those who came first was obliged to go back for the rest : from
this circumstance, we conjectured that the boat wc saw, when we were lying in Endeavour
River, was the only one in the neiglibout'.iood : we iiavc however some reason to believe
that the bark canoes arc also used where the wooden > nes are constructed ; for upon one of
the small isl.ands where the natives had been fishing for turtle, we found one of the little
paddles which bad belonged to such a boat, and would have been useless on board any other.
By what means the inhabitants of this country are reduced to such a number as it can
8id>sist, is not perhaps very easy to guess ; whether, like the inhabitants of New Zealand,
they are destroyed by the bands of each other in ccmtests for food ; whether they are swept
off by accidental famine, or whether there is any cause which prevents the increase of the
species, must be left for future adventurers to determine. That they have wars, appears by

; 1^

20n

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THK U'ORLI).

Aro. 1770.

;i!.

\l !,■

their weapons ; for supposing the hincps to serve merely for the striking of fish, tlic shield
could be intended for nothing but a defence against men ; the only mark of hostility, Iiowcvcr,
which wc saw among them, was the ])crforation of the Nhitld by a spear, which has been
just mentioned, for none of them appeared to have been wounded by an enemy. Neither
can we determine whether they an; pusillanimous or brave ; the rc»<jlution with which two
of them attem])ted to prevent our landing, when we had two boats full of men, in Itotany
Pay, even after one of them was wounded with small ^hot, gave us reason to conclude that
they were not only naturally courager)us, but that they ha<l ae<|nired a famili.arity with the
dangers of hostility, and were, by habit as well as nature, a daring and warlike people; but
their precipitate flight from every other place that wc approached, without even a menace,
while they were out of our reach, was an indication of uncommon tamenees and tin)idity,
such as those who had only been occasionally warriors must lie -supposed to have shaken off,
whatever might have been their natural disposition. I have faithfully related facts, the
reader must judge of the people for himself.

From the account that has been given of our commerce with tbeni, it cannot be supposed
that we should know much of their language ; yet as this is an <»bject of great ctiriosity,
especially to the learned, and of great iniportauco in their researches into the origin of the
various nations that have been discovered, wc took some pains to bring away such a specimen
of it as might, in a certain degree, answer the pjirpose, and I shall now give an account how
it was procured. If wo wanted to know the name of a stone, we took a stone np into our
hands, and as well as wc could, intimated by signs, that wc wished they should name it :
the word that they pronounced upon the occasion wc immediately wrote down. This
method, though it was the best we could contrive, might certainly lead us into many mis-
takes ; for if an Indian was to take up a stone, and nsk us the name of it, wc might answer
a pebble or a flint ; so when we took up a stone, and asked an Indian the name of it, ho
might pronounce a word that distinguished the species and not the genus, or that, instead of
signifying stone simply, might signify a rough stone, or a smooth stone ; however, as much
as possible to avoid mistakes of this kind, several of us contrived, at different times, to get
from them as many words as we could, and having noted them down, compared our lists :
those w^hich were the same in all, and which, according to every one's account, signified the
same thing, we ventured to record, with a very few others, which, from the simplicity of the
subject, and the case of expressing our question with plainness and precision by a sign, havo
acquired equal authority.

ENGLISH.
The head .
/fair
Ei/cs .
Ears ,
Lips .
yose
Tongue
y^dili .
Sun .
Fire
^ stone
Saiiil
A rnpe
A man
lirnnt

Neck . .
Nipples
J I nulls .
Thiiihs
Navel ,
Knees
Feet
Heel .
Cockatoo

The sole of the fool
Ankle
Arms

NEW HOLLAND.

Wngrcogro.

Moive,

Mill"].

Mtlca.

Yen I be.

Hoiijod.

Vn'y.xw

K.iike.

nalh.n.

Mivinaiig.

M'allia.

Yowall.

(iuil(a.

Itani.i.

AVallar.

Duoiiiboo.

Ca\ o.

Maiigal.

Coiiian.

Tool poor.

I'ongi).

Ivlaiiial.

Knioiior.

Wand.i.

C'liunial.

Clionpiirn.

Aco, or Acol.

Captain King, in Iiia account of liis second vJiit to

ENGLISH.

Thumb

The fore, middle, and
rimi Jiuf/ers

The iiitU-Jinycr .

The sky . ...

A father

A son . . . .

./ titnle turtle

A ft'iiialc . . .

A cfiiine

To piiilillc . . .

Sit dnirn

Smooth . ...

A doff

A loriiptrt

Jilood ....

iVood . . . .

The bone in the note .

A hay ....

A yrent cockle .

Cocos, t/nws

E.rprcssions, as u-e
posed, of admiration
irhirh thru con
ally used rrhen they (
were in cutnp'iny tritli I
«*• . . . .)

Emicivour River (Snrver of tl

■esup-\
'at ion, I
ntinii- \

NEW HOLLAND.

K'KM>rU:lga.

K?a!baiga.

Nakil, '/r Kliiinrnakil.

Kt re, or Kiarie,

D'liijii.

Jii(iii:nc.

I'oiii.-a.

M:int( ingo,

Maiigan.

I'elinvo,

T..krii'.

>iiti Carrar.

Cotta, or K<i:a.

r(i|<>rr, or iiii r-picr.

Oariiilic.

Vocoii.

TipiMll.

Clir.nigala.

Miiingo.

Manicutii.

ChciT.

C'licrco.

Yarcuv.

Tut, tut, tnt, tut.

10 roa.«t< of Anstralia, vol. i.

A 10. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE M'ORLU.

200

I shall now rpiit this country, with a few ohscrvations relative to the currents and tiilcs
upon the coast. I-'roni ]ntitu<le '.\2 , and somewhat higher, (h)Wn to .Sandy Cai)e, in latitude
24' '1(5', we constantly found a ciirnnt ^^etting to the southward, at tlie rate of ahout ten or
fifteen miles a day, hein;; more or leris, according to our distance from the land, for it always
ran with more force in sliore than in the oiVuig ; hut I could never satisfy myself whether
the flood-tidi! came from the southward, the eastward, or the northward ; I incliueil to tho
opinion that it cainir from the south-east, but the first time we anchored otV the coast, which
was in latitude 21° '.W, ahout ten leaj^ues to tlie south-east of llustard l?ay, I found it come
from the north-west ; f-n the contrary, thirty leagues farther to the north-wi st, on the south
side of Kejipel Bay, I fouml that it came from tho east, and at the northern ])art of that
IJay it came from the northward, hut with a much slower motion than it had come from tho
east : on tho cast side of the liay of Inlets, it set strongly to the westward, as far as the
opeiung of Droad Sound ; but on the north side of that sound, it came with a very slow
motion from tho north-west ; and when we lay at anchor before Itepulse 15ay, it came from
the northward : to account for its course in all this variety of directions, we need only admit
that the flood-tide comes from the east, or south-east. It is well known, that where there
are deep inlets, and large creeks into low lauds, running up from the sea, and not occasioned
by rivers of fresh water, there will always be a great indraught of the flood-tide, the direc-
tion of which will be determined by the position or direction of the coast which forms the
entrance of such inlet, whatever be its course at sea ; antl where the tiiles arc weak, which
npon this coast is generally the case, a large inlet will, if I may be allowed the expression,
attract the flood-tide for many leagues.

A view of the map will at once illustrate this position. To tho northward of Whitsun-
day's Passage there is no large inlet, consequently the flood sets to the northward, or north-
westward, according to the direction of the coast, and the ebb to tho south, or south-cast-
ward ; at least such is their conrso at a little distance from tho land, for very near it they
will bo influenced by small inlets. I also observed, that wo had only one high tide in twenty-
four hours, which happened in the night. The diftcrcncc between tho perpendicular rise of
tho water in the day and the night, when there is a spring-tide, is no less than three feet,
which, where tho tides are so inconsiderable as they are here, is a great jiroportion of tho
whole difference between high and low water. This irregularity of the tides, which is wor-
thy of notice, we did not discover till we were run ashore, and perhaps farther to the north-
ward it is still greater : after wo got within the reef the second time, wo found the tides
more considerable than wo had ever done before, except in the Bay of Inlets, and possibly
this may be owing to the water being more confined between the shoals ; hero also the flood
sets to tho north-west, and continues in the same direction to the extremity of New "Wales,
from whence its direction is west and south-west into the Indian sea.

>U. I

CAPUUn VII. — THE TASSAOn FHOM NF.W SOUTH WALES TO NEW GUINEA, WITH AN ACCOUNT
OF WHAT IIAPI'ENKD UPON LANDING TIIKUE.

In tho afternoon of Thursday, August tho 23d, after leaving Booby Island, wo steered
AV.N.W., with light airs from the S.^.W. till five o'clock, when it fell calm, and tho tide of
ebb socm after setting to the N.K., we came to an anchor in eight fathom water, with a soft
sandy bottom. Booby Island bore S. TiO E., distant five miles, and the Prince of Wales's
Isles extended from N.E. by N. to S. 55 E. ; between these there appeared to be a clear

p. 308), mnkes llie following remarks in rcfoicncc to
lliia vocabulary : — " A fi-w words were oblnincd by Jlr.
Ciinninpliani, wliicli served to confirm many wc had
possessed ourselves of last year : and wliieli being after-
wards eoniiiared witli tin; vocabulary of the New South
AVales' hmguase givin by Captain Cook, prove that ho
obtained it at Endeavour Kiver. Aiul here it is not n
little curious to remark that of the only two words wliich
materially differ in the two accounts, one of them is tliu
name of the kangaroo. Tliis wonl was repeatedly used to

them last year, as will as this, accompanied by an imita-
tion of the leap of the animal, which tlicy readily under-
stood ; but on repeating tlic word kangaroo, they always
cov.ccteil us by saying '■ 7nen-u-uh.' This animal has,
therefore, been distinguished by a name which chance
alone 5;ave it; and not, as has always been supposed, frnni
the term applied to it by the natives of the part where
Captain Cook first saw it. Wc may here observe that
Ca])tain Cook writes the name Kanpwroo, instead of
Kangaroo, the accepted modern spelling." — Ed.

IIMlliMI

270

COOK S IIIIST VOV.VCK KOINI) Till-. WOllLn.

Aio. 1770.

()|)i'n passao'o, pxtoiitlini,' from \. H» I', to F'. I»y N. At luilfaii Imiir after fivi', in tlio iiioniiiig
of tlu! 2 ttli, as wo wore ixircliaHin^ tlie aiicluT, tlu- calilc ]iartc(l at alxuit ci^'lit or ton fatlioiii
from the riii<; : tlio sliip tlicn lirgaii to drive, Intt I iiniiicdiatcly (lro]i|)i'(l aiiotiicr aiulior,
wliicli l)ri)n;j[lit lur up licforu nIic got inoff tlian a calilc'n It'iij;tli fnun tlio buoy ; tlic boats
wore tlii'ii Htiit to sweep for tbo aneliur, but couKl not sueceed. At noon, our latitude, by
observation, was 10' 3(>' S. As I was resolved not to leave tlio anelior beliind, wliile there
remained a possibility uf reeovering it, I sint the boats a^'ain after dinner, with a siiiali line,
to discover where it lay ; this being iia]>pily effected, wo swept for it with a hawser, and by
the same hawser hove the ship up to it : we proteeded to weigh it, but just as we were
about to shi|) it, the hawser slipped, and we had all our labour to re]ieat. Ky this tiiiiu it
was dark, and wo were obliged to suspend our oiurations till the morning.

As soon as it was light we sweepod it again, and heaved it to the bows ; by eight o'eloek
wc weighed tho other anchor, got under sail, and, with a fine breeze at IC.N.Ii., stood to tlio
north-west. At noon, our latitude, by ob-t-rvation, w.is 10" \iV S., longitude 215)" IM)' W.
At this time wo had no land in sight, but almut two miles to the southward of us lay a largo
shoal, upon which tho sea broke with great violence, an<l part of which, I believe, is diy at
low-water. It extends N.NV. ami S.K., and is about five leagues in circuit. Our deptii of
water, from the time we weighed till now, was nine fathom, but it soon shallowed to seven
fathom ; and at half an hour after one, having niii eleven miles between noon and that time,
the boat which was a-head made tho signal for shoal water ; we immediately let go an
anchor, and brought the ship up with ail the sails standing, for the boat having just been
relieved, was at but a little distance. I'pon looking out from the ship, wo saw shoal water
almost all round us, both wind and tide at the same time setting upon it. Tho ship was in
six fathom, but u|)on sounding round her, at the distance of Iialf a cable's length, we found
scarcely two. This shoal reached from the c.xst, round by the north and west, as far as tho
south-west, so that there was no w.ay dtr us to get clear but that which wo came. This was
another hair's-breadth escape, for ii w.-w near high-water, and there ran a short cockling sea,
which must very soon have bulged the ship if she had struck ; and if licr direction had been
lialf a cable's length more, either to the right or left, she must have struck before tho signal
for the shoal was made. The shoals which, like these, lie a fathom or two under water, are
tho most dangerous of any, for they do not discover themselves till tho vessel is just ujion
them, and then indeed the water looks brown, as if it reflected a dark cloud. Between three
and four o'clock, tho tide of ebb began to uLike, and i sent the master to sound to tlu; south-
ward and south-westward ; and in the mean time, as the ship tended, I weighed anchor, and
with a little sail stood first to the southward, and afterwards, edging away to the westward,
got once more out of danger. At sunset, wc anchored in ten fathom, with a sandy bottom,
having a fresh gale at E.S.E.

At six in the morning, we weighed again and stood west, having, as usual, first sent a boat
a-head to sound. I had intended to steer X.W. till I had made tho south coast of New
Guinea, designing, if possible, to touch ujion it ; but upon meeting with these shoals, I
altered my course, in hopes of finding a clearer channel and deeper water. In this I suc-
ceeded, for by noon our deptli of water was gradually increased to seventeen fathom. Our
latitude was now, by observation, 10" 10' .S., and our longitude 220° 12' W. No land was
in sight. Wc continued to steer west till sunset, our depth of water being from twenty-
seven to twenty-three fathom. We then shortened sail, and kept upon a wind all night ;
four hours on one tack, and four on another. At daylight, wo made all the sail we could,
and steered W.X.W. till eight o'clock, and then N.W, At noon, our latitude, by observa-
tion, was 9'' .'JG' S., longitude 221- W., variat.-.n 2 .30' E. We continued our N.W. course
till sunset, when wc again shortened sail, and hauled close upon a wind to tho northward :
our depth of water Tvas twenty-one fathom. At eight, we tacked and stood to tho south-
ward till twelve ; then stood to the northward with little sail till daylight Our soundings
were from twenty-five to seventeen fathom, the water growing gradually shallow as we stood
to the northward. At this time we made sail and stood to the north, in order to make tho
land of New Guinea. From the time of our making sail till noon, the depth of water gra-
dually decreased from seventeen to twelve fathom, with a stony and shelly bottom. Our

I'lltll of

Ai (). i;7(».

COOKS FIIIST VOVAJiK IIOINI) TIFK WOllLO.

I'TI

Itttitiidu, by ol)si rvation, was now it '»2' S., wliiili is in tlie Hainc |iaialk'l as tliat in wliicli
tlio f jntlic-ni iiailM of Ni'w (Jnima mo luiil dnwn in tin- iliarts ; Imt tluTo ari- (inly two |ioiiits
so far to tlii> Moiitii, anil I ncl^oniil tliut we were a <lii;rcc to tin- wi-^twanl of tli'in liotli,
anil tliiToforc ilid not see the taml, wiiidi tivnds more to tlie nortliward. We fnumi tlie sea
hero to lio in many |iarts eovorod with a hrown scum, such as sailors yeneralty call spawn.
Whou I first saw it, [ was alarmed, feariu},' that we wero among shoals ; hut, ujion sonnd-
inp, wo found the same dejith of water as in other places. This seuni was examined lioth
l»y Mr. Danks and Dr. Solander, hut they could not determine what it was: it was formed
of innuincrahli! small ]>artieles, not more tiian half a line in length, each of which in the
microscope apjiearcd to i-'onsixt of thirty or forty tubes ; and each tuhe was divided through
its whole length l>y small ])artitions into many cells, likt the tubes of the conferva. They
wero supposed to belong to the vegetable kingdom, because, upon iinrning them, they jiro-
duccd no smell like that of an aninuil substance. The ^lame appearance had been observed
upon the coast of IJrazil and New Holland, but never at any considerable distance from the
shore. In the evening a small bird hovered about the ship, and at niglit, settling anions the
rigiiing, was taken. It proved to be exactly the san)o bird which Damjiier has described,

and of which ho has given a rude figure, by the name of a Noddy, from New Holland.

(See his Voyages, vol. iii. p Vl\. Tab. of llirds, fig. fi.)

Wo continued standing to the northward with a fresh gale at K. by S. and S.K. till six
in the ovening, having very irregular soundings, the depth changing at once from twenty-
four fathom to seven. At four, wo had seen tho land from the mast-head, bearing N.W.
by N. ; it appeared to bo very low, and to stretch from AV.N.W. to N.N.K., distant four
or fivo leagues. Wo now hauled close upon a wind till seven, then tacked and stood to tho
southward till twelve, at which time wo wore and stood to the northward till four in the
morning, then laid tho head of tho vessel off till daylight, when we again saw the land, and
stood in N.N.W. directly for it, with a fresh gale at K. by S. Our soundings during the
night wero vciy irregular, from seven to fivo fathom, suddenly changing from deep to
shallow, and from shallow to deep, without in tho least corresponding with our distance
from tho land. At half an hour after six in tho morning, a small low island, which lay at
tho distance of about a league from the main, boro N. by W., distant five miles : this island
lies in latitude «° V.V S., longitude 221" 25' W. ; and 1 find it laid down in the charts by
tho names of Dartholomow and Whermoysen. Wo now steere<l N.W. by W., W.N.AV.,
W. by N., W. by S., and S.W. by W., as wo found tho land lie, with from five to nine
fathom ; and though wo reckoned wo wore not more than four leagues from it, yet it was
so low and level, that wo could but just see it from the deck. It appeared, however, to be
well covered with wood, and among other trees, we thought wo could distinguish tho cocoa-
nut. Wo saw smoke in several jilaces, and therefore know there wero inhabitants. At
noon, wc wore about three leagues from the land ; the westernmost part of which thai was
in sight boro S. 70° W. Our latitude, by observation, was»" 1!)' S., and longitude 221- 44'
W. Tho island of St. Bartholomew bore N. 7-1 1'^ » distant twenty miles.

After steering S.W. by W. six miles, we had shoal water on our starboard-bow, which
I sent tho yawl to sound, and at tlie same time hauled ofV upon a wind till four o'clock ; and
though, during that time, wo had run six miles, we had not deepened our water an inch. I
then edged aw.ay S.W. four miles more; but finding it still shoal water, I brought to, and
called the boats aboard. At this time, beiiiff between three and four leagues from tho
shore, and tho yawl having found only three fathom water in the ])lace to which I had
sent her to sound, I hauled off close ui)on a wind, and weathered tho shoal about half
a mile.

Between one and two o'clock, wo passed a bay or inlet, liefore which lies a small island
that seems to shelter it from the southerly winds ; but I very much doubt whether there is
sufficient depth of water behind it for shipping. I could not attempt to determine the
question, because the S.E. trade-wind blows right into the bay, and we had not as yet had
any breeze from tho land. We stretched off to sea till twelve o'clock, when wc were about
eleven leagues from the land, and had deepened our water to twenty-nine fathom. Wc
now tacked and stood in till five in the morning ; when, being in six fathom and a half, wo

•^:if

U> .

/I-

M f\i\

\A§

272

COOK S Fllisr VOYAUE ROL'ND THE WORLD.

Sept. 1770.

I li

iJi:

t.ickcd and laid the head of the vessel off till daylight, when we saw the land, be.aring N.W.
by W., at abont the distance of fi^ur leagues. We now made sail, and steered first
W.S.W., then AV. by S. ; but coming into five fathom and a half, we hauled off S.W. till
we dcpjuncd our water to eight fathom, and then kept away W. by S. and W., having
nine f.. thorn, and the land just in sight from the deck ; we judged it to be abou;, '"nir
leagues distant, and it was still very low and woody. Cireat quantities of the brown scum
continued to appear upon the water, and the sailors, having given up the notion of its being
spawn, found a new name for it, and called it Sea-sawdust. At noon, our latitude, by
observation, was 8= liO' S., our longitude 222=" 34' W. ; and Suint Bartholomew's Isle bore
N. 01) E., distant seventy-four miles.

As all this coast appears to have been very minutely examined by the Dutch, and as
our tr.ick, with the soundings, will appear by the chart *, it is sufficient to say, that we
continued our course to tiie northward with very shallow water, upon a bank of mud, at
fa ich a distance from the shore as that it could scarcely be seen from the ship, till the 3rd of
September. During this time we made many attempts to get near enough to go on shore,
but without success ; and having now lo«t six days of fair wind, at a time when we knew
the south-east monsoon to be nearly at an end, we began to be impatient of farther delay,
and determined to run the ship in as near to the shore as possible, and then land with the
pinnace, while she kept plying off and on, to examine the produce of the country, and the
disposition of the inhabitants. For the last two days we had early in the morning a light
breeze from the shore, which was strongly impregnated with the fragrance of the trees,
shrubs, and herbage that covered it, the smell being something like that of Gum Benjamin.
On the 3rd of September, at daybreak, we saw the land extending from N. by E. to S.E.,
at abont four leagues distance, and we tiien kept standing in for it with a fresh gale at
E.S.E. and E. by S. till nine o'clock, when being within about three or four miles of it,
and in three fathom water, we brought to. The pinnace being hoisted out, I set off from
the ship with the boat's crew, accompanied by Mr. Banks, who also took his servants, and
Dr. Solander, being in all twelve persons well armed ; we roAved directly towards the shore,
but the water was so shallow that we could not reach it by about two hundred yards :
we waded, however, the rest of the way, having left two of the seamen to take care of the
boat. Hitherto we had seen no signs of inhabitants at this place j but as soon as we got
ashore we discovered the prints of human feet, which coidd not long have been impressed
upon the sand, as they were below high-water mark : we therefore concluded that the
people were at no great distance, and, as a thick wood came down within a hundred yar
of the water, we thought it necessary to proceed with caution, lest we should fall into an
ambuscade, and our retroat to the boiit be cut off. We walked along the skirts of the wood,
and at the distance of about two hundred yards from the place where we landed, we came
to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which stood upon the banks of a little brook of brackish
water. The trees were of a small growth, but well hung with fruit ; a^id near them was
a shed or hut, which had been covered witli their leaves, though most of them were now
fallen off: about the hut lay a great number of the shells of the fruit, some of wliicli
appeared to be just fresh from the tree. We looked at the fruit very wishfully, but not
thinking it safe to climb, we were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut. At a
little distance from this place we found ])lantains, and a bread-fruit tree, but it had nothing
upon it ; and having now advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians
rushed out of the wood with a hideous shout, at about the distance of a hundred yards ; and
as they ran towards us, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which flew on one
side of him, and burnt exactly like gunpowder, but made no report : the other two instantly
threw their lances at as ; and, as no time was now to be lost, we discharged our pieces,
which were loaded with small shot. It is prol.i'ole that they did not feel the shot, for
though they halted a moment, tliey did not retreat; and a third dart was thrown at us. As
we thought their farther approiuli might be prevented with less risk of life, than it would
cost to defend ourselves against their attack if they should come nearer, we loaded our

" The track will appt-ar upon tlie general map, but the tlinrt licrc iilliuled to is omitted in the present edition as
valuable only fur nautical purposes, and superseded by more modern publications. — Ed.

1770.

Skpt. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

273

pieces with ball, and fired a second time ; by this discharge it is probable that some of thini
were wounded ; yet we iiad the satisfaetioii to see that tliey all ran away witli great agility.
As I was not disposed forcibly t<t invade this country, either to gratify our ai^petites or our
curiosity, and ])erceived that nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, wc improved this
interval, in which the destruction of the natives was no longer necessary to our own defence,
and with all expedition returned towards our boat. As we were advancing along the shore,
we perceived that the two men on board made signals that more Indians were coming
down ; and before we got into the water, we saw several of them coming round a point at
the distance of about five hundreil yards: it is probable that they had met with the three
who first attacked us ; for as soon as they saw us they halted, and seemed to wait till their
main body should come up. We entered the water, and waded towards tlie boat ; and
tliey remained at their station, without giving us any interruption. As soon as we were
aboard we rowed abreast of them, and their number then appeared to be between sixty and
a hundred. Wc now took a view of them at our leisure; they made much the same
appearance as the New Hollanders, being nearly of the same stature, and having their hair
short-cropped : like them also they were all stark naked, but we thought the colour of their
skin was not quite so dark ; this, however, might perhajts be merely the eftect of their not
hc'mir quite so dirty. All this while they were shouting defiance, and letting off their fires
by fo ir or five at a time. What these fires were, or for what purpose intended, wc could
not imagine : those who discharged them had in their hands a short piece of stick, possibly
a hollow cane, which they swung sideways from them, and wc immediately saw fire and
smoke, exactly resembling those of a musket, and of no longer duration *. This v.onderful
phenomenon was observed from the shi]\ and the deception was so great, that the people on
board thought they had fire-arms; and in the' boat, if wc had not been so near as that we
must have heard the report, we should have thought they bad been firing volleys. After
we had looked at them attentively some time, without taking any notice of their flashin,or
and vociferation, wc fired some muskets over their heads : upon hearing the balls rattle
among the trees, they walked leisurely away, and we returned to the ship. Upcm examining
the weapons they had thrown at us, wc foimd them to be light darts, about four feet long,
very ill-made, of a reed or bamboo cane, and pointed with hard wood, in which there were
many barbs. They were discharged with great force ; for though we were at sixty yards'
distance, they went beyond us, but in what man.ier we could not exactly see : possibly they
might bo shot with a bow; but we saw no bows among them when wc surveyed them from
the boat, and we were in gener.il of opinion, that they were thrown with a stick, in the
manner practised by the New Ilollpnders.

This place lies in the latitude o o° ]C)' S., and about sixty-five leagues to the N.E. of
P<'.rt St. Augustine, orWalchc Caep, and is near what is called in the charts C. do laColta
de St. Bona Ventura. The land here, like that in every other part of the coast, is very low,
but covered with a luxuriance of wood and herbage that can scarcely be conceived. Wo
saw the cocoa-nut, the bread-fruit, and the plantain-trcc, all flourishing in a state of the
liighest perfection, though the cocoa-nuts were green, and the bread-fruit not in season :
besides, most of the trees, shrubs, and plants that are common to the South Sea islands,
New Zealand, and New Holland.

Soon after our return to the ship we hoisted in the boat and made sail to the westward,
being resolved to spend no more time upon this coast, to the great satisfaction of a very
considerable majority of the ship's company. But I am sorry to say that I was strongly
urged by some of the officers to send a party of men ashore, and cut down the cocoa-nut
trees for the sake of the fruit. This I peremptorily refused, 3 equally unjust and cruel.
The natives had attacked us merely for landing upon their coast, when we attempted to take
nothing away ; and it was therefore morally cei'tain that they would have made a vifrorous
effort to defend their property, if it had been invaded, in which case many of them must
liave fallen a sacrifice to our attempt, and perhaps also some of our own people. I should
have regretted the necessity of such a measure, if I had been in want of the necessaries of

* Tlicec _fircs do not appear to have been observed by any otlicr navigator ; nor lias their nature been hiilurto
explained. — Ki>.

•I

'!!

ii ^t^

{•■ i I

rlii

f. 'UP

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND TilE WORLD.

Skpt. 1770.

life ; and certainly it wonUl liave been highly criminal, when nothing was to be obtained
but two or tliroo huiulrcd of grooii cocoa-nuts, which would at most have procured us a mere
traTisiont gratification. I niiglit indeed have ])roceedtd farther along the coast to the north-
ward and westward, in searcli of a ])lace wliere the !«liip might have lain so near the shore as
to cover the people with her guns when they landed ; but this would have obviated only
part of the miscliief, and though it might have secured us, would probably in the very act
iiave been fatal to tlie natives. Besides, we had reason to think that before such a place

r,,o. Nui.
TREES UF NEW Gl'INEA.

ri^tcldin.

would have been found, we should have been carried so far to the westward as to have been
obliged to go to Batavia, on the north side of Java ; which I did not think so safe a passage
as to the south of Java, through the Straits of Sunda : the ship also was so leaky that I
doubted wliethor it would not be necessary to heave her down at Batavia, which was another
reason for making the !)est of our way to that place ; especially as no discovery could he
expected in seas which had already been navigated, and where every coast had been laid
uown by the Dutch geogra])liers. The S]ianiards indeed, as well as the Dutch, seem to have
eirctminavigated all the islands in New Guinea, as almost every place that is distinguished
in tiie chart has a name iu both languages. Tii" charts with w liich I compared such part of
the coast as I visited, are hound upwitli a French work, entitled " Ilistoire des Navigations
aux Torres Austridcs," which was published in 17>'»<>i and I found them tolerably exact; yet
I know not by whor\ nor when tliey were taken : and though New IFollaP'' and New
Guinea are iuthem represented as two distinct countries, the very History in \ . eh they are
bound up leaves it in doubt. I j)retend, however, to no more merit in this part of the
voyage, than to have established the fact beyond all controversy.

As the two countries lie very near each other, and the intermediate spa', e is full of islands,
it is reasonable to suppose that they were both peopled from one common stock : yet no
intercourse appears to have been kept up between them ; for if there had, the cocoa-nnts,
bread-fruit, plantains, and other fruits of New Guinea, which are equally necessary for the
support of life, would certainly have been transj)!anted to New Holland, where no traces of
them arc to be found. The author of the " Ilistoire des Navications aux Terres Australes,"
in his account of Le Mai re's vovage, has given a vocabulary of the language that is spoken

Skpt. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROrXD THE WORLD.

27fi

in an island near New IJritairi ; and we find, by comparing that vocabulary with the wonls
whitli wo learnt in Xtw Holland, tliat tlic lan;.'iiiijrcs are not tho saino. If, thcrtforo, it
should appear that the l;iniriinc'r-i of Ntw Britain and New (luinea are the same, there will
bo reason to sujijiose tiiat New lirit.iin an'l New (ininea were peoj)led from a common stock ;
but tliat the inhabitants of New Holland Iiad a different origin, notwithstanding the proximity
of tiic countries.

tHAPTER VIII. THE PASSACE FROM NEW GUINEA TO THE ISLAND OF SAVU, AMI TIIH

TKAN^ACTIONS TIIEKE.

We made sail, from noon on -Monday the 3rd to noon on Tuesday the 4th, standing to the
westward, and all the time kept in soundings, having from fourteen to thirty fatliom ; not
regular, but sometimes more, sometimes less. At noon on the -Ith, we were in fourteen
fatliom, and latitude (JO' 44' S., longitude 223' .01' W. ; our course and distance since the
3rd at noon, were S. 7'> ^^'- one hundrc<l and twenty miles to the westward. At noon on
the r>th of September we were in latitude 7' 2.J S., longitude 22;V 41' W. ; having been in
soundings the whole time from ten to twenty fathom.

At half an hour after one in the morning of the next day we passed a small island, which
bore from us N.N.W., distant between tbrc-e and four miles ; and at daylight we discovered
another low island, extending from N.N.W. to N.N.E., distant about two or three leagues.
Upon this island, which did not a]»pear to be very small, I believe I should have landed to
examine its produce, if the wind had not blown too fresh to admit of it. When wc passed
this island we had only ten fathom water, with a rocky bottom ; and therefore I was afraid
of runniufj down to leeward, lest I should meet with shoal water and foul ground. These
islands have no place in the charts, except they are the Arrou islands ; and if these, they are
laid down much too far from New Guinea. 1 found the south part of them to lie in latitude
7° (>' S., longitude 22;")^ W. We continued to steer W.S.W. at tlie rate of four miles and a
half an hour, till ten o'clock at night, when we had forty-two fathom ; at eleven we had
thirty-seven, at twelve forty-five, at one in the morning forty-nine, and at three one hundred
and twenty, after which we had no ground. At daylight we made all the sail we couhl, and
at ten o'clock saw land, extending from N.N.W. to W. by N., distant between five and six
leagues : at noon it bore from N. to W., and at abojit the same distiincc : it ajipeared to be
level, and of a moderate height. By our distance from New (Juinea, it ought to have been
part of the Arrou islands, but it lies a degree farther to the south than any of these islands
are laid down in the charts, and by the latitude should be Timor Laoet : we sounded, but
had no ground with fifty fathom. As I was not able to satisfy myself from any chart what
land it was that I saw to leeward, and fe?ring that it might trend away more southerly, the
weather also being so hazy that we couhl not see far, I steered S.W., and l)y four had lost
sight of the island. I was now sure that no part of it lay to the southward of H° Jo' S., and
continued standing to the 8.W. with an easy sail, and a fresh breeze at S.E. by E., and
E.S.E. : wc sounded every hour, but had no bottom with 120 fathom.

At day-break, in the mornmg, we steend W.S.W., and afterwards W. by S., which by
noon brought us into the latitude of 9 30' S., longitude 229^ 34' W., and by our run from
New (iuinea, wo ought to have been within sight of Weasel isles, which in the charts are
laid down at the distance of twenty or twentv-Hve lea"ues from the coast of New Holland :
wo, however, saw nothing, and, therefore, they mu>t have been ])laced erroneously ; nor can
this be thought strange, when it is consiilered that not only these islands, but the coast which
boimdsthis sea. have been discovered and explored by different people, and at different times,
and the cl.iuts upon which they are delineated jmt together by others, perhajts at the
distance of more than a century after the discoveries had been made ; not to mention that the
discoverers themselves had not all the rcquiMtes for keeping an accurate journal, of which
those of the jircsent ago are possessed. We continued our course, steering W. till the
evening of the Htli, when the variation of the compass, by several azinmths, wag 12' W,,
and by the amjilitude ."»' W. At noon, on the 9tli, our latitude, by observation, was
9° 40' S., longitude 232= 7' W. For the la.-t two davs, we liaO steered due W., yet by

ijty

270

LOOK'S URST VOYAGE ROUND THE M'ORLP.

1770.

\i I:

Observation, \vc made sixteen miles southing, six miles from noon on tlie Gth to noon on the
7th, and ton miles from noon on the 7th to noon on the 8th, hy whieh it appeared that there
was a eurrcnt setting to the southward. At sunset we found the variation to he 2' W., and
at the same time saw an appearanec of very high land hearing X.W.

In the morning of the lOth we saw clearly that what had appeared to be land the night
before, was Timor. At noon, our latitude, hy observation, was 10^ 1' S., which was fifteen
miles to the southward of that given by the log ; our longitude, by observation, was 233"
27' ^y. ^Ve steered N.AV. in order to obtain a more distinct view of the land in sight, till
four o'clock in the morning of the 11th, when the wind came to the N.W, and W., with
which we stood to the southward till nine, when we tacked and stood N.W., having the
wind now at W.S.AV. At sunrise the larid had appeared to extend from W.N.W. to N.R.,
and at noon we could see it extend to the westward as fiir as W. by S. ^ S., but no farther
to the eastward than X. by E. We were now well assured, that as the first land wo had
seen was Timor, the last island wo ha J passed was Timor Laoet, or Laut. Laoet is a word
in the language of Malacca signifying " sea," and this island was named by the inhabitants
of that country. The south part of it lies in latitude 8" !'»' S., longitude 228" 10' W., but
in tlie charts the south point is laid down in various latitudes, from 8^ 30' to 9° 30': it is
indeed possil)le that the laud we saw might be some other island, but the presumption to
the contrary is very strong : for if Timor Laut had lain where it is placed in the charts, we
must have seen it there. We were now in latitude 9=' 3/' S. ; longitude, by an observation
of the sun and moon, 233^ 54' W. ; we were the day before in 233^ 27' ; the difference is
2"', exactly the same that was given by the log: this, however, is a degree of accuracy in
observation that is seldom to be expected. In the afternoon we stood in shore tiil eight in
the evening, when we tacked and stood off, being at the distance of about three leagues from
the land, which at sunset extended from S.W. ^ W. to N.E. : at this time we sounded, and
had no ground with 140 fiithom. At midnight, having but little wind, we tacked and stood
in, and at noon the u.xt day our latitude, by observation, was 9° 30' S. This day we saw
smoke on shore in several places, and had seen many fires duri.ig the night. Tlie land
appeared to be very high, rising in gradual slopes one above another : the hills were in general
covered with thick woods, but among them we could distinguish naked spots of a considerable
extent, which had the apj>earanee of having been cleared by art. At five o'clock in the
afternoon we were w ithin a mile and a half of the shore, in sixteen fathom water, and abreast
of a small inlet into the low land, which lies in latitude 9" 34' S., and probably is the same
that Dampier entered with his boat, for it did not seem to have sufficient depth of water for
a ship. The land here answered well to the description that he has given of it : close to the
b'ach it was covered with high spiry tree?, which lie mentions as having the appearance of
pines ; behind tlie<„" there seemed to be salt-water creeks, and many mangroves, interspersed
however witii cocoa-nut trees : the flat land at the beach appeared in some places to extend
inward two or three miles before the rise of the first hill ; in this part, however, we saw no
appearance of plantations or houses, but great fertility ; and from the number of fires, we
judged that the j)lace must be well peopled.

When we had approached within a mile and a half of the shore, we tacked and stood off,
and tlie extremes of the coast then extended from N.E. by E. to W. by S. | S. The south-
westerly extremity was a low point, distant from us about three leagues. While wc were
standi II u' in for the shore, we sounded several times, but had no ground till we came within
about two miles and a half, and then wc had five-and-twenty fathom, with a soft bottom.
After we had tacked, we stood off till midnight, with the wind at S. ; we then tacked and
stood two hours to the westward, when the wind veered to S.AV. and W.S.W., and we then
stood to the southward .igain. In the morning wc found the variation to be 1° 10' W. by
tiie amplitude, and by the azimuth 1° 27'. At noon our latitude was, by observation, 9" 4;V
S., our hmgitude 234° 12' W. ; we were then about seven leagues distant from the laud, which
ext.nded from X. 31 E.,toW.8.AV. | W.

AVitii light land breezes from W . by N. for a few hours in a morning, and sea breezes
from S.S.W. and S., we advanced to the westwanl but slowly. At noon, on the 14th, we
were between six and seven leagues from the land, which extended from X. by E. to S. "Jli

Sept. 177f>.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGIi ROUND THE WORLD.

■\V. ; we still saw smoke in many places by day, and fire hy niglit, both ii|)()n tlie low land
and tlic mountains beyond it. AVe continnod sti'cring along tlic shore, till the morninnr of
the J;jth, the land still appearing hilly, but not so higii as it had been : the hills in general
came qnite down to the sea, and where they did not. we saw instead of flats and mangrove
land, immense groves of cocoa-nut trees, reaching about a mile nj) from the beach : there
tlie ]dantations and houses conmienced, and appeared to he innunierat.le. The houses were
shaded by groves of the fan-|)alm, or l>oraii.^iis, and the jiliiutations, which were inclosed by
a fence, reached almost to the tojis of tlie highest hills. Wc saw, however, neither peo])Ie
nor cattle, though our glasses were contiiinaily em])loyed, at wiiicli we were not a little
surprised. Wc continued our course, witii little variation, till nine o'clock in the morning
of the Kith, when we saw the small island called Itorri: ; and at noon the island Sicmat,
lying oft' the south end of Timor, bore N.AV.

Danipier, who has given a large description of the island of Timor, says, that it is seventy
leagues long, and sixteen broad, and that it lies nearly N.E. and S.W. I found the east
side of it to lie nearest N.E. by E. and S.W. by W., and the south end to lie in latitude
10" 23' S., longitude 2.1(5^ 5' AV. We ran about forty-five leagues along the east side, and
found the navigation altogether free from danger. The land, which is bounded by the sea,
except nejir the south end is low for two or three miles within the beach, and in general
intersected by salt creeks : behind the low land are mountains, which rise one above another
to a consider.able height. AVo steered AV.X.W. till two in the afternoon, when hiing
within a small distance of the north end of Rotte, we hauled up N.N.AV. in order to go
between it and Seinau : after steering three leagues upon this course, we edged away X. \V.
and AV. and by six we were clear of all the islands. At this time, the south part of Semau,
which lies in latitude 10^ hV S., bore N.E. distant four leagues, and the island of Kotte
extended as far to tlic southward as S. 3(5 AN''. The north end of this island, and the south
end of Timor, lie N. -^ E. and S. ^ AV., and arc about three or four leagues distant from each
other. At the west end of the passage between Rotte and Semau, are two small islands,
one of which lies near the Rotte shore, and the other oil' the south-west point of iSemau ;
there is a good channel between them, about six miles broad, through which we passed.
Tiie isle of Rotte has not so lofty and mountainous an a])pearancc as Timor, tlDugh it is
agreeably diversified by bill and valley : cm the north side, there are many sandy beaches,
near which grew some trees of the fan-palm, but the for greater part was covered with a
kind of l)ru>hy wood, that was without leaves. The appearance of Semau was nearly the
same with that of Timor, but not quite so high. About ten o'clock at night, we observed
a phenomenon in the heavens which, in many particulars, resembled the aurora borealis,
and in others was very ditlerent : it consisted of a duU reddish light, and reached about
twenty degrees above the horizon : its extent was very diflferent at diftennt times, but it
was never less than eight or ten points of the compass : through and out of this passed
rays of light of a brighter colour, which vanished, and were renewed nearly in the same
time as those of the aurora borealis, but had no degree of the tremulous or vibratory motion
which is observed in that phencmienon : the body of it bore S.S.E. from the ship, and it
continued, without any diminution of its brightness, till twelve o'clock, when we retired to
sleep, but how long afterwards I cannot tell.

Being clear of all the islands which are laid down in the maps we had on board, between
Timor and Java, wc steered a west course till six o'clock tlie next morning, when wo
unexpectedly saw an island bearing W.S.W., and at first I thought we had made a new
discovery. AVe steered directly for it, and by ten o'clock were close in with the north side
of it, where we saw houses, cocoa-nut trees, and to our very agreeable surprise, numerous
flocks of sheep. This was a temptation not to bo resisted by pe(>i)le in our situation,
especially as many of us were in a bad state of health, and many still repining at my not
having touched at Timor : it was therefore soon determined to attempt a comuierce with
people who appeared to be so well able to supply our many necessities, and remove at once
the sickness and discontent that had got footing among 's. The pinnace was hoisted out,
and Mr. Core, the second lieutenant, sent to see if there was any convenient place to land,
taking with him some trifles as presents to the natives, if any of them should appeari

■i|J

\tl

r H

r 'i

i :

270

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Skpt. J 770.

- ' ■ /

"Wliile ho was gone, we saw from tho sliip two men on horseback, who seemed to be riding
upon the liills for their amusement, and often stopped to look at tho ship. By this wo
knew that the place liad been settled by Europeans, and hoped, that the many disagreeable
circumstances which always attend the first establishment of commerce with savages, would
be avoided. In the mean time, Mr. Gore landed in a small sandy cove near some houses,
and was met by eight or ten of the natives, who, as well in their dress as their persons, very
nnich resembled the Malays : they were without arms, exce]it the knives which it is their
custom to wear in their girdles, and one of them had a jack-ass with him. They courteously
invited him ashore, and conversed with him by signs, but very little of the meaning of
either party could be understood by the other. In a short time, he ri'tiirncd with this
report, and, to our great mortification, added, that there was no anchorage for the ship. I
sent him, however, a second time, with both money and goods, that he might, if possible,
purchase some refreshments, at least for the sick ; and Dr. Solander went in the boat with
lum. In the mean time, I kei)t standing on and off with the sliip, which at tliis time was
within about a mile of the shore. Before the boat could land, we saw two other horsemen,
one of whom was in a complete European dress, consisting of a blue coat, a white waistcoat,
and a laced hat : these peojile, when the boat came to tlie shore, took little notice of her,
but sauntered about, and seemed to look with great curiosity at the ship. AVe saw however
other horsemen, and a great number of persons on foot, gather round owr people, and to our
great satisfaction perceived several cocoa-nuts carried into the boat, from which we concluded
that peace and conmierce were established between us.

After the boat had been ashore about an hour and a half, she made the signal for having
intelligence that there was a b'ay to leeward, where we might anchor : we stood away
directly for it, and the boat following, soon came on board. Tlio lieutenant told us, that he
had seen some of the principal j)eople, who were dressed in fine linen, and had chains of gold
roinid their necks : he said, that he had not been able to trade, because the owner of the
cocoa-nuts was absent, but that about two dozen had been sent to the boat as a present, and
that some linen had been accepted in return. Tiie pcojjle, to give him the information that
he wanted, drew a map upon the sand, in which they made a rude representation of a har-
bour to leeward, and a town near it : they also gave him to understand, that sheep, hogs,
fowls, and fruit, might there be procured in great plenty. Some of tliem freipuiitly jn'o-
nounced the word Portuguese, and said something of liarntuea upon tlie island of Kude :
from this circumstance, we conjectured tliat there were Portuguese somewhere ujion tho
island, and a Portuguese, who was in oiu' boat, attemjjted to converse with the Indians in
that language, but soon found that they knew only a word or two of it by rote : one of
them, however, when they were giving our peojde to untlerstand tliat there was a town near
the harbour to which they had directed ns, intimated, that as a token of going right, we
shouhl see somewhat, which he expressed by crossing his fingers, and the Portuguese
instantly conceived tliat he meant to express a cross. Just as our ])e()i)Ie were putting otV,
the hoiseman in the Eurojican dress eauje up, but tho ofiicer not having his commission
about him, thought it best to decline a conference.

At seven o'clock in the evening, we came to an anchor in the bay to which we had been
directed, at about the distance of a mile from the siiore, in tliirty-oight fatliom water, witli
a clear sandy bottouj. The north point of tlie bay bore N. .'?() K., distant two miles and
a half, and the south point, or west end of the island, bore S. HI? AV. Just as we got . )niid
tlie north point, and entered the bay, we discovered a large Indian town or village, upon
which we stood on, hoisting a jack on the fore toji-mast head : soon after, to our great sur-
prise, Dutch colours were hoisted in the town, and three guns fired ; we stood on, however,
till we had soundings, and then anchored.

As soon as it was light in the morning, we saw the same ecdours hoisted upon the beach,
abreast of the ship ; supjwsing therefore that the Dutch had a settlement lure, I sent
Lier .it Gore ashore, to wait ujion the governin-, or the chief person residing uixm tlie
spot, and acquaint him wl;o we were, and for what i)ur|)ose we had touched u])on the coast.
As soon as he came ashore, he was received by a guard of between twenty and thirty
Indians, armed with muskets, who conducted him to the town, where the colours had been

Skpt. 1770.

Sept. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOVAGR KOINU TIIK WOULD.

270

ncd to be riding
I. By tins wo
iny disagreeable
savages, would
;ar some lionses,
sir persons, vciy
ivbicli it is tbeir
hey courteously
tlio meaning of
irncd with this
or the ship. I
[{lit, if possible,
1 the boat with
t this time was
sther horsemen,
ivhite waistcoat,
) notice of her,
i'c saw however
)ple, and to our
h wc concluded

gnal for having
ve stood awav
told us, that he
d chains of gold
le owner of the
! a present, and
iforniation that
-ation of a har-
:it ."^heep, hogs,
nquently Jiro-
land of Ende :
liere upon the
the Indians in
y rote : one of
as a town near
)ing right, we
e Portuguese
re putting olK,
is commission

I we had been

II water, with
Avo miles and
we got . )uiid
village, upon
)ur great .-ur-
on, however,

fin the beach,
lii're, I sent
ing upon the
>on the coast.
y and thirty
urs had been

hoisted the niylit before.

that had been hoisted

the beach

carrying with them th
and marching without any military regularity. As soon as he arrived, he was introduced
to the raja, or king of the island ; and by a Portuguese interpreter, told him, that the ship
was a man-of-war belonging to the king of Great Britain, and that she had many sick on
board, for whom we wanted to jjurchase such refreshments as the island afforded. His
majesty rejdied, that he was willing to sujijily us with whatever we wanted, but that, being
in alliance with the Dutch East India Company, he was not at liberty to trade with any
other people, without having first procured their consent, for which, however, he said, ho
would immediately apjdy to a Dutchman who belonged to the company, and who was the
only white man upon the island. To this man, who resided at some distance, a letter was
immediately despatched, acquainting him with our arrival and request : in the mean time,
Mr. CJore despatched a messenger to me, with an account of bis situation, and the state of
tlie treaty. In about three hoiirs, the Dutch resident answered the letter that had been sent
him, in jierson : he jiroved to be a native of iSaxony, and his name i Johan Christopher
liunge, and the same person whom we had seen on horseback in a European dress : be
behaved with great civility to jMr. CJore, and assured him, that wc were at liberty to pur-
chase of the natives whatever we jileased. After a short time, he ex])ressed a desire of
coming on board., so did the king also, and several of his attendants : JMr. CJore intimated
that ho was ready to attend tlicm, but they desired that two of our people might be left
ashore as hostages : and in this also they were indulged.

About two o'clock, they all came aboard the slii]>, and our dinner being rea(\\', they
accepted our invitation to jiartakc of it : I expected tliem immediately to sit down, lint the
king seemed to hesitate, and at last, with some confusion, said, he did not imagine that we,
who were white men, would suffer him, who was of a different colour, to sit down in our
company ; a compliment soon removed his scruples, and wc all sat down together wit!i great
cheerfulness and cordiality : hapjnly we were at no loss for interpreters, both Dr. Si 'lander
and Air. Sporing understanding Dutch enough to keep up a conversation with Mr. Lange,
and several of the seamen were able to converse with such of the natives as spoke Portuguese.
Our dinner happened to be mutton, and the king expressed a desire of having an English
sheep ; we had but one left, however that v/as presented to him : the facility with which
this was procured encouraged him to ask for an English dog, and Mr. Danks politely gave
up his greyhound : JMr. Lange then intimated that a s])ying-glass would be acceptable, and
one was innuediately put into his hand. Our guests then told us, that the island abounded
with buffaloes, sheej), hogs, and fowls, plenty of which should be driven down to the beach
the next day, that wc might purchase as many of them as wc should think fit : this put us
all into high spirits, and the liquor circulated rather faster than either the Indians or the
Saxon could bear ; they intimated their desire to go away, however, before they were quite
drunk, and were received upon deck, as they had been when they came aboard, by the
marines under arms. The king expressed a curiosity to see them exercise, in which he was
gratified, and they fired three rounds : be looked at them with great attention, and was
much surprised at their regularity and expedition, especially in cocking their pieces ; the
first time they did it, be struck the side of the ship with a stick that he had in his hand, and
cried out with great vehemence, that all the locks made but one clink. They were dis-
missed with many presents, and when they went away saluted with nine guns : Mr.
Panks and Dr. Solander went ashore with them ; and as soon as they put off they gave us
three cheers.

Our gentlemen, when they came ashore, walked up with them to the town, wbich
consists of many houses, and some of them are large ; they are however nothing more than
a thatched roof, supported over a boarded floor by pillars about four feet high. They pro-
duced some of their palm- wine, which was the fresh unferniented juice of the tree ; it had a
sweet, but not a disagreeable taste ; and hopes were conceived that it might contribute
to recover our sick from the scurvy. Soon after it was dark, Air. Banks and Dr. Solander
returned on board.

In the morning of the 19th, I went ashore with Air. Banks, and several of the officers and
gentlemen, to return the king's visit ; but my chief business was to procure some of the

V M

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it-v.

r •

2R0

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

StPT. 1770.

buffaloes, sheep, and fowl-, wliitli wo liad been toM i'iouUl be driven down to the beach.
"Wo were greatly mortified to find, that no steps had been taken to fidfil this promise ;
however, we jiroceeded to tlie hotiae of assembly, whieh, with two or three more, had bi-en
erected by the Diiteh Kast-India Company, and arc distinguished from the rest by two
pieces of wood resembling a pair of cow's horns, one of which is set np at each end of tlie
ridge that terminates the roof; and these were certainly wliat the Indian intended to r<;pre-
sent by crossing his fingers, though our Portuguese, who was a good Catiiolio, coiistnud the
sign into a cross, which had ])er8uaded us that the settlement belongeil to his countrymen.
In this place wc met i^Ir. Langc and the king, whose name was A Madoclio Lomi I>jara,
attended by many of the principal peo])le. We told them that we had in the boat goods of
various kinds, which we jiroposed to barter for sucli refreshments as they would give us in
exchange, and desired leave to bring them on shore ; wiiich being granti-d, they were
brought ashore accordingly. We then attem|»ted to settle tlie price of the buiValoes, sheep,
hogs, and other commodities whieh we projiosed to purchase, and for which wo wore to j)ay
in money ; but as soon as this was mentionetl, ^Ir. Lange left us, telling us, that these pre-
liminaries must bo settled with the natives : he said, Imwever, that he had received a letter
from the governor of Concordia in Timor, the purport of which ho would communicate to us
when ho returned.

As the morning was now far advanced, and wc were very unwilling to return on board
and eat salt provisions, when so many delicacies surrounded us ashore, we petitioned his
majesty for liberty to purchase a small hog and some rice, and to employ his subjects to
dress them for »is. lie answered very graciously, that if we could cat victuals dressed by
his subjects, whieh ho could scarcely suj)p()se, he would do himself the lumour of entertain-
ing us. Wo expressed our gratitude, and immediately sent on board for liquors. About
five o'clock, dinner was ready ; it was served in six-and-thirty dishes, or rather baskets, con-
taining alternately rice and p(uk ; and three bowls of earthenware, filled with the liquor
in which the pork had been boiled : these were ranged upon the floor, and mats laid round
them for us to sit upon. Wo were then conducted by turns to a hole in the floor, near
which stood a man with water in a vessel, made of the leaves of the fan-palm, who assisted
us in washing our hands. When this was done, we jdaced ourselves round the victuals, and
waited for the king. As bo did not come, wo inquired for him, and were told that the
custom of the country did not permit the j)erson who gave the entertainment to sit down
with his guests ; but that, if wo suspected the victuals to be poisoned, he would come and
taste it. We immediately declared that we had no such sus])icii)n, and desired that none of
the rituals of hospitality might be violated on our account. The prime minister and 3Ir.
Lange were of our party, and wo made a most luxurious meal : wo thought the pork and
rice excellent, and the broth not to be despised ; but the spoons, which were niade of leaves,
were so small, that few of us had j)atience to use them. After dinner, onr wine passed
briskly about, and we again in(|uircd for our royal host, thinking that though the custom of
liis country would not allow him to eat with us, he might at least share in the jollity of our
bottle ; but he again excused himself, saying', that the master of a feast should never bo
drunk, which there was no certain way to avoid but by not tasting the liquor. We did
not, however, drink our wine where wc had eaten our victuals ; but as soon as we had
dined, made room for the seamen and servants, who immediately took our places : they
could not despatch all that we had left, but the w omen who came to clear away the bow Is
and baskets, obliged them to carry away with them what they bad not e.aten. As wine
generally warms and ojiens the heart, wo took an opportunity, when we thought its influ-
ence began to be felt, to revive the subject of the butt'aloes and sheep, of which we had not
in all this time heard a syllable, though they were to have been brought down early in the
morning. But our Saxon Dutchman, wIlIi great phlegm, began to communicate to us the
contents of the letter whieh he pretended to liave received from the governor of Concordia.
lie said, that after acquainting him that a vessel had steered from thence towards the island
where we were now ashore, it required him, if such ship should apply for provisions in
distress, to relievo her; but not to suffer her to stay longer than was absolutely necessary,
nor to make any large presents to the inferior people, or to leave any with those of superior

Fkpt. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOl'Xl) TlIK WOULD.

•21! 1

rank to be afterwards (lis^tributod anioii^' tluin : but be was graciously pleased to add, tliat
wc were at liberty to give beads and otlier trifles in exebange for petty civilitiec, and palm-
wine. It was tbe general oi)inion, tbat tbis letter was a riction ; tbat tbe probibitory orders
were feigned witb a vii;w to get money from us for breaking tbem ; and tbat, by ])re-
cluding our liberality to tbe natives, tbis man boped more eatr^ily to turn it into anotber
ciiannel.

In tbe evening, wc receive 1 intelligence from oiir trading-])lace tbat no bufTaloes or bogs
bad been brouglit down, and only a few t^bi'e|), wbicb liad been taken away before our
people, wbo bad sent for money, could ])rocure it. Some fowls, bowever, bad been bonglit,
and a largo quantity of a kind of syrup made of tbe juice of tbe palm-tree, wbicb, tbougb
infinitely superior to molasses or treacle, sold at a very biw jiriee. We comi)lained of our
disappointment to INIr. l^ange, wbo bad now anotber subterfuge ; bo said, tbat if we bad
gone down to tbe bcacb ourselves, we migbt bave i)urcbased wbat we pleased ; but tbat tbo
natives were afraid to take money of our peoi)Ie, lest it sbould be counterfeit. We could not
but feel some indignation against a man wbo bad concealed tbis, being true ; or alleged it,
being false. I started up, liowever, and went immediately to tbe beacb, but no cattle or
sbeep were to bo seen, nor were any at band to be produced. Wbilo I was gone, Lauge,
wbo knew well enongii tbat I sbould succeed no better tban my people, told Mr. Hanks tliat
tbe natives were displeased at our not liaving oflFercd tbem gold for tbeir stock ; and tbat if
gold was not offered, notbing would be bouglit. Mr. Banks did not tbink it wortb bis
wbilo to reply, but soon after rose up, and wc all returned on board, very mucb dissatisfied
witii tbe issue of our negotiations. During tbe course of tbo day, tbe king bad promised
tbat some cattle and sbeep sbould be brougbt down in tbe morning, and bad given a rea.-^oii
for our disappointment somewliat more plausible ; be said tbat tbe buffaloes were far up tlio
country, and tbat tbere bad not been time to bring tbem down to tbe beacb.

Tbe next morning wc went asborc again : Dr. Solander went up to tbe town to sjieak to
Lange, and I remained upon tbe beacli, to see wbat could be done in tbe purcliasc of pro-
visions. I found liere an old Indian, wbo, as be appeared to bave some autbority, we bad
among ourselves called tbe prime minister ; to engage tbis man in our interest, I presented
liim witb a spying -glass, but I saw notbing at market except one small buffalo. I
inquired tbe price of it, and was told five guineas : tbis was twice as mucb as it was wortb ;
liowever, I offered tbree, wbicb I could perceive tbe man wbo treated witb me tbougbt a
good price ; but be said be must acquaint tbe king witb wbat I bad offered before be could
take it. A messenger was immediately despatcbed to bis majesty, wbo soon returned, and
said, tbat tbe buffalo would not be sold for anytbing less tban five guineas. Tbis price I
absolutely refused to give ; and anotber messenger was sent away witb an account of my
refusal : tbis messenger was longer absent tban tbe otber, and wbile I was waiting for bis
return, I saw, to my great astonisliment. Dr. Solander coming from tbe town, followed by
above a buudred men, some armed witb muskets, and some witb lances. Wben I inquired
tbe meaning of tbis bostile appearance, tbe Doctor told me, tbat ^Ir. Lange bad interpreted
to bim a message from tbe king, purporting tiiat tbe people would not trade witb us, because
we bad refused to give tbem more tban balf tbe value of wbat tbey bad to sell ; and tbat we
sbould not be permitted to trade upon any terms longer tban tbis day. Besides tbe officers
wbo commanded tbe p.irty, tbere came witb it a man wbo was born at Timor, of Portuguese
parents, and wbo, as we afterwards discovered, was a kind of colleague to tbe Dutcb factor ;
by tbis man, wbat tbey pretended to be tbe king's order, was delivered to me, of tbe same
purj)ort witb tbat wbicb Dr. Solander iiad received from Lange. Wc were all clearly of
opinion tbat tbis was a mere artifice of tbo factors to extort money from us, for wbicb we
bad been prepared by tbe account of a letter from Concordia ; and wbile we were besitating
wbat step to take, tbe Portuguese, tbat be migbt tbe sooner accomplisb bis purpose, began
to drive away tbe people wbo bad brougbt down poultry and syrup, and otbers tbat wero
now coming in witb buffaloes and sbeep. At tbis time, I glanced my eye upon tbe old man
wbom I bad complimented in tbe morning witb tbe spying-glass, and I tbouglit, by bis
looks, tbat be did not beartily approve of wbat was doing ; I therefore took liim by tbo
iiand, and presented bim witb an old broad-sword. Tbis instantly turned tbe scale in our

it- J

1 m

V t

-. :1

' I

I A':i|

202

COOK'S FIRST V()YA(;K UOIND TIIK UOHLI).

Si:iT. 1V7().

favour ; lie rcct-ivod tlio sword witli a tran>p<)rt of joy, an<I flouriisliiiig it over tiio hiwy
Portiii^iicsc, who croiulioil liko a fox to a lion, lie mailf liiiii, and tin; oUrht who coininaiidcd
the [larty, sit down njion the ground behind him: the people, who, whatever were tlie crafty
pretences of these iniquitous factors for a Dutch company, were c;i<»«r to supply us witli
whatever we wanted, and seemed also to he more desirous of goods than money, instantly
improved the advantage that had been proeiired them, and the market was stocked almost
in an instant. To establish a trivdo for buffaloos, however, which I most wanted, I found
it necessary to give ten guineas for two, one of which weighed no more than a hundred and
sixty pounds; but I bought seven more much cheaper, and mi^ht afterwards have purcliased
as many as I pleased almost upon my own terms, for they were now driven down to the
water side in herds. In the lirst two that I bought so dear, Lange had certainly a share,
and it was in hopes to obtain ])art of the price of others, that he had pretended that we must
pay for them in gold. The natives, however, sohl what they afterwards Itrought down much
to their satisfaction, without l)aying part of the i)rice to him as a reward for exacting money
from lis. Most of the bulTaloes that we bought, after our friend, the ]>rime minister, had
])rocured us a fair market, were sold for a musket a j)icce, and at this price we might have
bought as many as would have freighted our ship.

The refreshments which we procured here, consisted of nine buflTaloes, six sheep, three
hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, a few limes, and some cocoa-nuts ; many doZ'-n of eggs, half of
which however proved to be rotten; a little garlic, and %'Vtral hundred gaUons of palm-
syrup.

) il

CHAPTER IX. A PARTICULAR DESCKII'TtOX OF THIC I.SI.AXO OV fSAVf, ITS PRODICE AND INIIA-

niTAXTS, WITH A SPECIMEN 01' THEIR LAXGIAtJE.

Tins island is called by the natives Savii; the middle of it lies in about the latitude
10" IW S., longitude 237 ' '^0' W. ; and has in general been so little known that I never
saw a map <tr chart in whieli it is clearly or accurately laid down. I have seen a very old
one. in which it is called Sou, and ccmfounded with 8andel Uoscli. Rumphius mentions an
ishind by the name of S.iow ; and he also says, that it is the same which the Dutch call
Sandel I?osch ; but neither is this island, nor Timor, nor Rotte, nor indeed any one of the
islands that we have seen in these seas, placed within a reasonable distance of its true situa-
tion. It is about eijilit leasjues lonir from east to west ; but what is its breadth I do not
know, as I saw only the nortli side. The harbour in which we lay is called Sebn, from the
district in which it lies : it is on the north-west side of the island, and well sheltered from
the south-west trade-wind, but it lies open to the north-west. We were told, that there
were two other bays where shi]is might anchor ; that the best, called Timo, was on the
south-west side of the south-east point : of the third we learnt neither the name nor situa-
tion. The sea-coast, in general, is low ; but in the middle of the island there are hills of a
considerable height. AVe were upon the coast at the latter end of the dry season, when
there had been no rain for seven months ; and we were told that when the dry season con-
tinues so long, there is no running stream of fresh water upon the wlnde island, but only
small springs, which are at a considerable distance from the sea-side : yet nothing can be
imagined so beautiful as the prospect of the country from the ship. The level ground next
to the sea-side was covered with cocoa-nut trees, and a kind of palm called Arecas ; and
beyond tliem the hills, which rose in a gentle and regular ascent, were richly clothed, quite
to the summit, with plantations of the fan-palm, forming an almost impenetrable grove.
IIo'.v much even this prosjiect must be improved, when every foot of ground between the
trees is covered with verdure, by maize, find millet, and indigo, can scarcely be conceived
but by a powerful imagination, not unacquainted witii the stateliness and beauty of the trees
that ailorn this part of the earth. The dry season commences in March or April, and ends
in October or November.

The principal trees of this island are the fan-palm, the cocoa-nut, tamarind, limes, oranges,
aud mangoes ; and other vegetable productions arc maize, Guinea corn, rice, millet, callu-

ro.

Skit, 1770.

( ooKs iiiisT V()VA<;i: itor'M) tiik mould.

2!!3

vaiitTs, nixl Wiltcr-iiuli'iis. Wc »ivw also one Miii,'iir-faiu', iviid a ffw kiiid^ of I'lirojican
gartU'ii-stuft"; itarlitnlarly tilt'ry, inaiji»nmi, foiiiu'l, and ;;;ailic. Vi>v tlic siipi)!)' of luxury,
it lias bftel, aroca, tolacTo, lotton, indi<;o. and a small <|iiaiitity of tiiiiiaiiioii, wliicli sccins
to bu planti'd licrc only for curiosity ; and indicd wo donhti-d wlictlicr it was tlic j^iniiinc
]ilant, kiiowinr; that the Dutch are very careful not to trust the spices out of their ])ro]>er
islandti. There are however teveral kinds of fruit, besides those which have been already
mentioned; |KirtieuIarly the sweet sop, which is well known to the West Indians, and a
small oval fruit, called the lilinibi, both of which orow u])o!i trees. The bliiiibi is about
three or four inches l(»n;r» »»d in the middle about as thick as a man's fini^er, tajurinj,' towards
each end : it is covered with a very thin skin of a lij;ht j:r('en colour, and in tlu? inside are a
few seeds disposed in the form of a star: its ilavour is ii li;:lit, clean, pleasant acid, but it
cannot be eaten raw; it is said to be excellent as a pickle ; and stewed, it made a most
a<'reeable sour sauce to our boiled dishes.

■; \i

"';t

MVU ni'KFAI.O.

The tame animals arc buifaloes, sheep, gnats, hops, fowls, jiigcous, liorses, asses, dojjs and
eats ; and of all these there is (jreat plenty. The buflF;i,loes ditVer very eonsideritbly from the
honied cattle of Europe in several ])artieulais ; their ears are much laiyer, tlieir skins are
almost without hair, their horns are curved towards each other, but together bend directly
backwards, and they have no dewlaps. We saw several that were as big as a will-grown
Eurojjean ox, and there must be some much larger; for Mr. IViuks saw a |>iiir of horns which
measured from tip to tip three feet nine inches and a half, acioss tlieir widest iliameter four
feet one inch and a half, and in the whole sweej) of tlieir seiiiieirile in front seven feet six
inches and a half. It must however be obstTved, tliat a bnlValo here of any giviii size does
not weigh above half as much as an ox of the same sizi- in iMigland : thosi' that we guessetl
to weigh four hundred weight did not weigh more than two hundred and fifty : the reason
is, that so late in the dry season the bones are very thinly covered with flisli : there is not
an ounce of fat in a whide carcase, and the Hanks are literally nothing but skin and bone :
the flesh however is well tasted and juicy, and I siijiuose better than the flesh of an English
ox would be, if he was to starve in this sun-burnt country.

The liorses .are fnmi eleven to twelve h.ands high, but though they are small, tliey arc
s])irited and nimble, especially in pacing, which is their common ste]) : the inhabitants
generally ride them without a saddle, and with no better bridle than a halter. The sheep
are of the kind which in England are called Bengal sheep, and dirt'er from ours in many
particulars. They are covered with hair instead of wool, their ears are very large, an<l hang
down under their horns, and tluir noses are arched ; they are thought to have a general
resemblance to a goat, and for that reason are frequently called <vft>'<7o.f : their flesh we
thought the worst mutton we had ever eaten, being as lean as that of the buffalo's, and
without flavour. The hogs, however, were some of the fattest we had ever seen, though, as
we were told, their principal food is the outside husks of rice, and the palm syrup dissolvt d
in water. The fowls are chiefly of the game breed, and large, but the eggs are remarkably

I; ^

I- 1

!!!!.

I'iU

( OOlvS IIKST \(>V.\t;K ROrSI) TMK U OllLD.

Si:i>r. I""'*.

siiiiill. Of tlio fish wliitli tin- M.i prmliircs lien-, we know but little: tiirtlcH mv sKiiit'-
tiniL'8 foiiiul iipou till' coast, aiiil art- liv tlu-gf iKn|)li', as wi'll an all otlicrw, considered as a
dainty.

Till' |u'o|ili' arc ratlier niMlrr. tliaii nvtr the iniiMlinjj hvad ; tlic wonirn cspocially are
rcniarkaldy slmrt and siiniat-hnilt : tlicir coMi]'lrxiiin i* a dark iironn. an<l tluir liair univer-
Hally lilaek and lank. We Haw no ditt'crence in tlie cidour of rich and poor, tlionuh in the
J'^oiitli iSea ii^lands, those that were ixpusid to the wiather were almost as hrown as the New
IIoHanders, and the better sort nearly as fair as the natives of lOiirope. The men are iu
general well made, vij;oroiis, and activi-, and have a ;:reater variety in the make and dispo-
sition of tlieir features than usual : the countenances of the women, on the contrary, are all
alike. The men fasten their hair n|> to the top of their heads with a comb, tlie women tie
it behind in a club, which is very far from beconiin;^. lioth sexes eradicate thu hair from
under the arm, and the men do the same by tlieir beards, for which purpose, the better sort
always carry a pair of silver ])inc(rs han;.'i!i;: by a string round their necks ; some, however,
sull'er a very little hair to remain u|>on their upper lips, but this is always ke|)t short.

The dress of both sexes consists of cotton doth, which being dyed blue in the yarn, and
not uniformly of the same shade, is in doinl- ctr waves of that colour, and even in our eye
had not an inelegant aj>pearance. This doth they manufacture themselves, and two ])ieccs,
each about two yards long, and a yard and a half wide, make a dre>s : one of thtnn is worn
round the middle, and the otlur covers the upper part of the bod}' : the lower edge of the
piece that goes round the middle, the men draw ])retty tight just below the fork, the ujiper
edge of it is left loose, so as to form a kind of liollow belt, whit'.i serves them as a pocket
to carry thiir knives, and other little implements which it is convenient to have about them.
The other piece of cloth is |)assed through this ginlle behind, and one end of it lieing brought
over the left shoulder, and the other over the right, they fall down over the breast, and are
tucked into the girdle before, so that by opening or dosing the jdaits, they can cover more
or less of their bodies as they i)lease ; the arms, lei.'s, and feet, are always naked. The ditt'er-
ence between the dress of the two sexes con?ists princij)ally in the manner of wearing the
waist-piece, for the women, instead of drawing the lower edge tight, and leaving the upper
edge loose for a pocket, draw the upper c<lge tight, and let tli(> lower edge fall as low as the
knees, so as to form a petticoat ; the body-piece, instead of being p.assed through the girdle,
is fastened under the arms, anil cross the breast, with the utmost decency. I have already
observed, tliat tlio men fastened the hair tipon the toj) of the head, and the women tie it in
a club behind, but there is another diftcreiice in the head-dress, by which the sexes are dis-
tinguished : the women wear nothing as a succedaneiim for a cap, but the men constantly
wrap something round tlieir heads in the manner of a fillet ; it is small, but generally of the
finest materials that can be procured : we saw some who a]>plied silk handkerchiefs to this
j)ur|)()se, and others that wore fine cotton, or mu-lin, in the manner of a small turban.

These peoi)le bore their testimony that the love of finery is a universal passion, for their
ornaments were very numerous, .'^ome of tl .' belter sort wore chains of gold round their
necks, but they were made of plaited wire, and consequently were light and of little value;
others had rings, which were so much worn, that they seemed to have descended through
many generations; and one person had a siher-headed cane, marked with a kiiul of cipher,
consisting of the Roman letters V, O, C, and therefore probably a present from the Dutch
East India Company, whose mark it is : the}- have also ornaments made of beads, which
some wear round their necks as a solitaire, and others, as br.icdets, upon their wrists : these
are common to both sexes, but the women have, besides, strings or girdles of beads, which they
wear round their waists, and which serve to keep u]> their petticoat. Both sexes had their
cars bored, nor was there a single excei)tion that fell under our notice, yet wc never saw an
ornament in any of them ; we never indeed saw either man or woman in anything but what
appeared to be their ordinary dress, except the king and his minister, who in general wore a
kind of niglit-gown of coarse chintz, and one of whom once received us in a black robe, which
appeared to be made of what is called prince's stuff. We saw some boys, about twelve or
fourteen years old, who had spiral circles of thick brass wire passed three or four times round
their arms, above the elbow, and some men wore rings of ivory two inches in breadth, and

All

Si:|.|. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOVACJI': IIOINI) rill-; W()KI,I».

!!('.'.

nliovc nn iiifli in thickiiOHs, H|)nn tlio Miiinc ]urt of tlii" arm : tlusc, we won' told, were llic
floiiH of tlio rajiis, or tliiol!*, wlio woro tliosr nimliroiH (iriianuiits -m badges of tliiir liii:li
birtli.

Almost all tin; men had tluir iianu-s tiauid upon tluir aims in iiid<lildo iliaractcrs of a
I)iat'k colour, and tlio wonu-ii liail ii square ornanuiit of flouri^licd lines, iiuiuessed in the
Bame manner, just under tiic lieiid of the elhow. \Ve were stiiuk with the siiuililuile
between theso iiiiirUs, and thos'j made hy tattowin;,' in tlie South Sea islands, and uiutii
iminiring into its ori^iin, wo learnt that it had heen juaelised hy the natives Inn;: before any
KnropeaiiH came among them ; and that in tho nei<;hbourin;,' islands, the ir.liahitants were
marked with circles upon their necks ami breasts. The universality of this practiee, which
prevails anion;,' sava^'es in all ])arts of the world, from the remotest limits of North America,
to the islands in the South Seas, and which ])nibalily diiVers but little from the method of
Htaininn; the body that was in use among tin- ancient inhabitants of Ibitain, is a curious sub-
ject of speculation.*

The houses of Savn are all built upon tho sanu; jdan, and ditVer only in size, beiiiij lar"e in
proportion to tho rank and riches of the proprietor. Some are four hundred feet loii", and
soiiio are not more than twenty : they are all raised upon j)osts, or piles, about four
feet Iii;,di, one end of which is driven into the ground, and upon the other end is laid a sub-
stantial floor of wood, so that there is a vacant spaco of lour feet between the floor of the

STJITin llcll>F' OF SIM'.

house and the ground. Upon this floor are ])laccd other posts or pillars, that support a roof
of sloping sides, which meet in a ridge at the top, like those of our barns : the eaves of this
roof, which is thatched with palm leaves, reach within two feet of tlio floor, and overhang
it as much : the spaco within is generally divided lengthwise into three equal parts ; tho
middle part, or centre, is inclosed by a partition of four sides, reaching about six feet above

* In the r.ccnmit wliidi Mr. Bnssu lias given of some liavinc Imrnt sniiio straw, ilihitcil the aslics with watrr,

Tiid aiis wild inlialiit tlie haiil<s of the AiUaiisiis, ;i liver of and willi tliis luixtiire, drew the lip;nre n|)(iii my skin ; he

Noilli America, whieh rises in Nvw Me.\iro, and falls into then retraced it. hy ]>rieUiii;r the lines with needles, so as

the jMississipjii, he relates the fullowing iiieident: "The at e'.cry iiiinctnro just to draw ;!u' blood, and the hluod

AiUansas," says he, " have ailopled me, and as a mark of inixinj; with the ashes of the siraw, forms a lijinre whieh

my privilege, liave imprinted the fi};iire of a roc-hiick n])on can never he ed'aeed." Sec Travels throngli Louisiana,

my thigh, which was doiiu in thid manner : an Iniliau vol. i. p. 107.

>} Vr,!

! >

Wi,

2!tn

COOK'S FIRST VOYA(iE ROUND THE WORLD.

Skpt. 1770.

tlio rioor, and ono or two small rooms arc also sometimes taken oft' from the sides, the rest of
the space under tlie roof is o])en, so as freely to admit the air and tlie lij.'ht: the particular
uxes of thcsi' ditVireiit apartnicuts our sliort stay would not permit us to learn, excej)t that
tiie close room in the centre N\as appropriated to tin; women.

'I'iie food of these ]>eo]>le consists of every tame animal in the country, of '.vhicli the hog
hoMs tlie first place in tlieir esliniation, anil the horse the second ; next to the horse is the
huft'alo, next to the huft'alo their jxiultry, ami they j)refer dogs and eats to sheep and goats.
They are not fond of fish, and, I believe, it is never eaten hut by the poor people, nor by
then) exee])t when their duty or business requires them to be upon the beach, and then every
man is furnished with a light casting net, which is girt round him, and makes part of his
dress ; and with this he takes any small iish which hap))en to come in his way. The escu-
lent vegetables and fruits have been mentioned alri'ady, Imt the fan-palm requires more
j)articular notice, for at cirtain times it is a suecedaneum for all other food both to man and
beast. A kind of wine, called toddy, is procured from this tree, by cutting the buds which
are to produce flowers, soon after tlieir ajipearance, and tying under them small baskets,
made of the leaves, which are so close as to hold liquids without leaking. The juice which
trickles into these vessels, is collected by ])ersons who climb the trees for that purpose, morning
an<l evening, and is the common drink of every individual upon the island; yet a much
greater quantity is drawn oft' than is consumed in this use, and of the surplus they make
both a syruji and coarse sugar. TIk; liquor is called (/««, or ditar, and both the syrup and
f^\i<liir. fj If h. The syrup is i)repared by boiling the liquor down in jiots of earthen ware, till
it is surticiently insi)issate(l ; it is not imlike treacle in ai)pearanee, but is somewhat thicker,
and has a much more agreeable taste : the sugar is of a reddish brown, perhaps the same
with the .Iiigata sugar upon the continent of India, and it was more agreeable to our palates
than any cane sugar, unrefijied. that we had ever tasted. We \Vero at first afraid that
the syru)>, of which some of our ]>eople ate very great quantities, would have brought on
fluxes, but its aperient quality was so very slight, that what effect it produced was rather
salutary than hurtful. I have already
observed, that it is given with the
husks of rice to the hogs, and that they
grow enormously fat without taking
any other food : we were told also,
that this syrup is used to fatten their
dogs and their fowls, and that the in-
habitants themselves have subsisted
np(,n this alone for several nionth.s,
wIku other eroj^s have failed, and
animal food ) v, been scarce. The
Iciivcs of this tree are also put to va-
rious uses, they thatch houses, an<l
make baskets, cups, umbrellas, and
tobacco jjipes. Tiio fruit is least
esteemed, and as the blossoms are
wouufled for the tiiac or toddy, there is
not much ; f it : it is about as bitr i s a
large turnip, and covered, like the cocoa-
nut, with a fibrous coat, under which
arc three kernels, that must !)c eaten
befo»e they r.ic ripe, for afterwards they
beciiie so hard that they cannot be
ciiewed ; in their eatable state they
taste not unlike a green cocoa-nut, and,
like them, probably they yield a nutriment that is watery and unsubstantial.

The common method of dressing food here is by boiling, and as fire-wood is very scarce,

FAN-FALM (Cori/pfiH umbiacaulifero).

Si:pt. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYACJK ROUND THE \V()RF>I>.

2!!7

rtiul the inliabitants have no other fuel, thoy make use of a contrivance to save it, tliat is not
wliolly unlinown in Emope, but is sil(h)ni ])ractisi(l except in camjis. They dig a hollow
under ground, in a h()ri/,')ntal direction, like a rabbit burrow, about two yards long, and
oneniiiij' into a hole at each end, one of wliicli is lar^e and the other small : by the lar<re hole
the fire is i)ut in, and the small one serves for a draught. The earth ovc this burrow is
jH'rforateil by circular holes, which coniniunicate with the cavity below ; an<l in these holes
are set earthen ])()ts, generally about three to each fire, which are hirge in the middle, and
taper towards the bottom, so that the fire acts upon a la'g(! ]iart of their surface. Each of
these pots generally contains about eight or ten gallons, and it is sur|)rising to see with how
small a quantity of fire they may be kept boiling ; a ]ialm leaf, or a dry stalk, thrust in now
and then, is sufficient : in this maimer they boil all their victuals, and inaki^ all their syrup
and sugar. It appears by Fra/ier's account of his voyage to the South Sea, that the Pernvian
Indians have a contvivance of the same kind, and perhaps it might be adopted with advan-
tage by the poor j)eople even of this country, when' fuel is very dear.

Both se.\es are enslaved by the hateful and jiernicious habit of chewing betel and arcca,
which they contract even while they are children, and practise incessantly from morning till
night. AV^ith these they always mix a kind of white lime, made .>f coral stone and shells,
and frequently a small quantity of tobacco, so that their nn)nths are disgustful in the highest
degree both to the smell and the sight : the tobacco taints their breath, and the betel and
lime make the teeth ivot only as black as charcoal, but as rotten too. I have seen men
between twenty and thirty, whose fore-teeth have been consumed almost down to the gums,
though no two of theni were exactly of the same length or thickne;is, but irregularly cor-
roded like iron by rust. This loss of teeth is, I think, by all who have written upon the
subject, imputed to the tough and stringy coat of the areca-nnt ; but I ini[)ute it wholly to
the lime : they are not IooscuckI, or broken, or forced out, as might bo expected, if they
were injured by the continual chewing of hard and rough substances, bnt they are gradually
wasted like metals that are exposjd to the action of powerfid acids ; the stumps always
adhering firmly to the socket in the jaw, when there is no part of the tooth above the gums:
and possibly those who suppose that sugar lias a bad effect upon the teeth of Enrojjeans,
may not be mistaken, for it is well known that refined loaf sugar contains a considerable
quantity of linu> ; and he that doubts whether lime wdl destroy bone of any kind, may
easily ascertain the fact by experiment.

If lu pcojile here are at any time without this odifius mouthful, they are smoking. This
operation they perform by rolling up a small quantity of tobacco, and putting it into one
end of a tube about six inches long, and as thick as a goose-quill, which they make of r»
]ialm-leaf. As the quantity of tobacco in these pipes is very small, the cft'ect of it is
increased, especially among the women, by swallowing the smoke.

AVlien the natives of this island were first formed into a civil society, is not certainly
known, but at jiresent it is divided into five principalities or nigrees : Laai, Skba, Kkokkia,
Ti.Mo, and Massaha, each of which is governed by its respective raja or king. The raja of
Seba, the principality in which we were ashore, seemed to have great authority, without
much external parade or show, or much appearance of personal respect. He was about five-
and-thirty years of age, and tlie fattest man we saw u]ion the whole iiOand : he appeared to
be of a dull ])hlegn..itic disposition, and to be directed almost implicitly by the old man
who, iq)on my presenting him with a swor-' had procured us a fair market, in spite of the
craft and avarice of the Dutch factors. The name of this person was .Mannu Djaume, and
it may reasonably be supposed that he was a man of unconunon integrity and abilities, as,
notwithstanding his possessvon of power in the character of a favourite, he was beloved by
the whole ])rincipality. If any diffi'rence arises among the jieople, it is settled by the raja
and his counsellors, without delay or appeal, and, .as wo were told, with tlio most solemn
deliberation and impartial justice.

We were informed by Mr. Lango, that the chiefs who had successively presided over the
five principalities of this island, had lived for time immemorial in the strictest alliance and
most cordial friendship with each other ; yet he said the people were of a warliki lisposituin,
and had always courageously defended themselves against foreign invaders. A\o were told

208

( OOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Skpt. 1770.

. I

k H

also, that the island was able to raise, upon very short notice, 7>^00 fighting men, armed
with muskets, spears, lanees, and targets. Of this force, Laai was said to furnish 2()00,
Seha 2000, Itegeeua lilOO, Timo ^00, and Massara 400. Besides the arms that have been
already mentioned, each man is furnished wit!i a large pole-axe, resembling a wood-bill,
except that it has a straight edge, and is much heavier : this, in the hands of people who
have courage to come to close quarters with an enemy, must be a dreadful weapon ; and we
were told that they were so dexterous with their lances, tiiat, at the distance of sixty feet,
they would throw them with such exactness as to pierce a man's heart, and such force as to
go quite through his boily.

How far this account of the martial prowess of the inhabitants of Savu may be true, wc
cannot take u]ion us to determine ; but during our stay v.e saw no appearance of it. We
saw, indeed, in the town-house, or house of assembly, about one hundred spears and targets,
wliich served to arm the peo])le who were sent down to intiuiidate us at the trading-place ;
but they seemed to be the refuse of old armories, no two being of the same make or length,
ft)r some were six, and some sixteen feet long : \% e saw no lance among them, and as to the
muskets, though they were clean on the outside, they were eaten into holeu by the rust
within ; and the people themselves ^ippeared to be so little acquainted v/ith military dis-
cipline, that they marched like a disorderly rabble, every one having, instead of his target,
a cock, some tobacco, or other merchandise of the like kind, which he took that opportunity
to brine down to sell, and few or nohe of their cartridfje-boxes were furnished with cither
powder or ball, though a piece of paper was thrust into the hole to save appearances. AVe
saw a few swivel guns and pateraro.s at the town-house, and a great gun before it ; but the
swivels and pateraros lay out of their carriages, and the great gun lay upon a heap of ttoi' a,
almost consumed with rust, with the touch-hole downwards, possibly to conceul its ? ,
which might perhaps be little less than that of the bore.

Wo could not discover that among these people there was any rank of distinction between
the raja and the land-owners : the land- owners were respectable in proportion to their
possessions ; the inferior ranks consist of manufacturers, labouring poor, and slaves. The
slaves, like tuc peasants in some parts of Europe, arc connected with the estate, and both
descend together ; but though the land-owner can sell his slav, lie has no other power over
his person, not even to correct him, without the privity and approbation of the raja. Some
have five hundred of these slaves, and some not half-a-dozen : the common price of them is
a fat hog. Wiien a great man goes out, he is constantly attended by two or more of them :
one of them carries a sword or iianger, the hilt of which is commonly of silver, and adorned
with large tassels of horse-hair ; and another carries a bag which contains bLtel, areca, lime,
and tobacco. In these attendants consists all their magnificence, for the raja himself has no
other mark of distinction.

The thief object of pride among these people, like that of a ^S'elshman, is a long pedioreo
of respectable ancestors, and, indeed, a veneration for antiquity seems to be carried farther
here than in any other country: even a house that has been well inhabited for many
generations, becomes almost sacred, and few articles cither of use or luxitry bear so high
a price as stones, which having been long sat upon, are become even and smoo«h : those who
can purchase such stones, or are possessed of them by inheritance, place them round their
houses, where they serve as seats for their dependants.

Every raja sets up in the principal town of his province, or nigrec, a large stone, which
serve j a memorial of his reign. In the principal town of Seba, where we lay, there are
thirteen such stones, besides many fragments of others, which had been set up in earlier
times, and arc now mouldering away: these monuments seem to prove that some kind of
civil establishment here is of considerable antiquity. The last thirteen reigns in England
mase something .iiore than 270 years. Many of these stones are so large, that it is difficult
to conceive by what means they were brouglit to their present station, especially as it is the
summit of a hill ; but the world is full of memorials of human strength, in which the
mechanical powers that have been since added by mathematical science, seem to be sur-
passed; and of such moniunents there are not a few among the remains of barbarous
antiquity in our own country, besides those upon .Salisbury Plain. These stones noi; only

ro.

Sept. 1770.

COOKS FIKST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

200

so I'igh

record the reigns of successive princes, but serve for a purpose much more extraordinary,
and probably altogether peculiar to this country. When a iMja dies, a general feast is
proclaimed i! oughout his dominicjus, and all his subjects assemble round these stones ;
almost every living creature that can be caught is then killed, and tiie feast lasts for a less
or greater number of weeks or months, as the kingdom ha])pens to bo more or less furnished
with live stock at the time ; the stones serve for tables. When this madness is over, a fast
must necessarily ensue, and the whole kingdom is obliged to subsist upon syrup and water,
if it happens in the dry season, when no vegetables can be procured, till a new stock of
animals can be raised from the few that have escaped by chance, or been preserved by policy
from the general massacre, or can be prficured from the neighbouring kingdoms. Such,
however, is the account that we received from 51 r. Lange.

We liad no opportunity to exan.'.ne any of their manufactures, except that of their cloth,
which they spin, weave, and dye ; we did not, indeed, see them employed, but many of the
instruments which they use fell in our way. We saw their machine for clearing cotton of
its seeds, which is made upon the same principles as those in Europe, but it is so small that
it might be taken for a model or a toy; it consists of two cylinders, like our round rulers,
somewhat less than an inch in diameter, one of which, being turned round by a plain wineli,
turns the other by means of an endless worm ; and the whole machine is not more than
fourteen inches long, and seven high ; that which we saw had been much used, and many
pieces of cotton were hanging about it, so that there is no reason to doubt its being a fair
specimen of the rest. We also once saw their apparatus for spinning ; it consisted of a
bobbin, on which was wound a small quantity of thread, and a kind of distaff filled v/itli
cotton ; we conjectured, therefore, that they spin by hand, as the women of Europe did
before the introduction of wheels ; and I am told that they have not yet found their way
into some parts of it. Their loom seemed to be in one resjjcct preferable to ours, for the
web was not stretched upon a frame, but extended by a piece of wood at each end, round
one of which the cloth was rolled, and round the other the threads ; the web was about half
a yard broad, and the length of the shuttle was equal to the breadth of the w* \ so that
probably their work goes on but slowly. That tht y dyed this cloth we first guessed from
its colour, and from tlie indigo which we saw in their plantations ; and our conjecture was
afterwards confirmed by Mr. Lange's account. I have already observed, that it is dyed in
the yarn, and we once saw them dyeing what w;is said to be girdles for the women, of a
dirty red, but with what drug we did not think it worth while to inquire.

The religion of these people, according to 3Ir. Lange's information, is an absurd kind of
paganism, every man choosing his own go<l, and determining for himself how he should bo
worshipped ; so that there are almost as many gods and modes of worship as people. In
their morals, however, they are said to be irreproachable, even upon the principles of Chris-
tianity. No man is allowed more than one wife, yet an illicit ommerce between the sexes
is in a manner unknown among them ; instances of theft are very rare ; and they are so far
i^rom revenging a supposed injury by murder, that if any difference arises between them,
*hey will not so much as make it the subject of debate, lest they should be provoked to
' sentment and ill-will, but immediately and implicitly refer it to the determination of their
kivj..;.

Tl'.cy appeared to be a healthy and hjng-lived peojile ; yet some of them were marke:l
with the small-pox, which Mr. Lange told us had several times made its appearance among
them, and was treated with the same precautious as the plague. As soon as a person was
seized with the distemper, he was removed to some solitary place, very remote from any
habitation, where tiie disease w^as left to iake its course, and the patient supplied with daily
food by reaching it to him at the end of a long pole. Of their domestic economy we could
learn but little ; in one instance, however, tlieir delicacy and cleanliness are very remark-
able. Many of us were ashore here three successive days, from a very early hour in the
morning till it was dark, yet we never saw the least trace of an offering to Cloacina, nor
rould we so much as guess where they were made. In a country so populous this is very
difficult to be accounted for ; and perhaps there is no other country in the world where the
secret is so effectually kept. The boats in use here arc a kind of proa.

i :lf I

t! I *

• I

200

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Sept. 1770.

n i

This island was settled by the Portuguese almost as soon as they first found their way
into this part of the ocean ; but they were in a short time supplanted by the Dutch. The
Dutch, however, did not take possession of it, but only sent sloops to trade with the natives,
probably for provisions to support the inhabitants of their spice islands, who, applying them-
selves wholly to the cultivation of that important article of trade, and laying out all their
ground in plantations, can breed few animals. Possibly their supplies by this occasional
traffic were precarious ; possibly they were jealous of being supplanted in their turn ; but
however that be, their East India Company, about ten years ago, entered into a treaty with
the Rajas, by which the Company stipulated to furnish each of them with a certain quantity
of silk, fine linen, cutlery ware, arrack, and other articles, every year; and the Rajas
engaged that neither they nor their subjects should trade with any person except the Com-
pany, without having first obtained their consent ; and that they would admit a resident on
behalf of the Company to reside upon the island, and see that their part of the treaty was
fulfilled. They also engaged to supply annually a certain quantity of rice, maize, and cale-
vanccs. Tlie maize and calevances are sent to Timor in sloops, which are kept there for that
purpose, each of which is navigated by ten Indians ; and the rice is fetched away annually
by a ship which brings the Company's returns, and anchors alternately in each of the three
bays. These returns are delivered to the Rajas in the form of a present, and the cask of
arrack they and their principal people never cease to drink as long as a drop of it remains.

In consequence of this f ; \Tty, the Dutch placed three persons upon the island ; Mr. Lango,
his colleague, the native i •, the son of an Indian woman by a Portuguese, and one

Frederick Craig, the son of . lian woman by a Dutchman. Lange visits each of the

Rajas once in two months, whei, .:e makes the tour of the island, attended by fifty slaves on
horseback. He exhorts these chiefs to plant, if it appears that they have been remiss, and
observes where the crops are got in, that he may order sloops to fetch it ; so that it passes
immediately from the ground to the Dutch storehouses at Timor. In these excursions he
always carries with him some bottles of arrack, which he finds of great use in opening the
hearts of the Rajas with whom he is to deal. During the ten years that he had resided upon
this island he had never seen a European besides ourselves, except at the arrival of the Dutch
ship, which had sailed about two months before we arrived ; and he is now to be distin-
guished from the natives only by his colour and his dress, for he sits upon the ground, chewa
his betel, and in every respect has adopted their character and manners. He has married
an Indian woman of the island of Timor, who keeps his house after the fashion of her
country ; and he gave that as a reason for not inviting us to visit him, saying, that he could
entertain us in no other manner than the Indians had done ; and he spoke no language
readily but tliat of the country.

The office of Mr. Frederick Craig is to instruct the youth of the country in reading and
writing, and the principles of the Christian religion ; the Dutch having printed versions of
the New Testament, a catechism, and several other tracts, in the language of this and the
neighbouring islands. Dr. Solander, who was at his house, saw the books, and the copy-
books also, of his scholars, many of whom wrote a very fair hand. He boasted that there
were no less thiin six hundred Christians in the township of Seba ; but what the Dutch
Christianity of these Indians may be, it is not perhaps very easy to guess, for there is not a
church, nor even a priest, in the whole island.

While we were at this place, we made several inquiries concerning the neighbouring islands,
and the intelligence which we received is to the following effect. A small island to the west-
ward of Savu, the name of which we did not learn, produces nothing of any consequence hut
areca-nuts, of which the Dutch receive annually the freight of two sloops, in return fur pre-
sents that they make to the islanders. Timor is the chief; and the Dutch residents on the
other islands go thither once a year to pass their accounts. The place is nearly in the same
state as in Dam|)ii'r"s time, the Dutch having there a fort and storehouses ; and, by Lange's
account, we might there have been supplied with every necessary that we expected to pro-
cure at Datavia, salt provisions and arrack not excepted. But the Portuguese arc still in
possession of several towns on the north side of the island, particularly Laphao and Sesial.

About two years before our arrival, a French ship was wrecked upon the east coast of

1770.

Sept. 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE UOUND THE WORLD.

291

islands,

le west-
jence but

for prc-
ts on the
the same

Lange's
to pro-
c still in

Scsial.

coast of

Timor ; and after she had lain some days npon the shoal, a sndden gale broke her np at once,
and drowned the captain, with the greatest part of the crew. Those who got ashore, among
whom was one of the licutenantH, made the best of their way to Concordia ; they were four
days upon the road, wiicre they were obliged to leave part of their company through fatigue,
and the rest, to the number of about eighty, arrived at the town. Tiiey were supj)lied witli
every necessary, and sent back to the wreck, with pro])cr assistance for recovering what could
be fished up. They fortunately got up all their bullion, wliich was in chests, and several of
their suns, wliich were very large. They then returned to the town, but their compamms
wh( ad been left upon the road were missing, having, as it was supposed, been kept among
the Indians, either by persuasion or force ; for they are very desirous of having Euro])ean3
among them, to instruct them in the art of war. After a stay of more than two montlis at
Concordia, their number was diminished nearly one-half by sickness, in consequence of the
fatigue and hardship which they bad suiFered by the shipwreck, and the survivors were sent
in a small vessel to Europe.

Rottc is in much the same situation as Savu ; a Dutch factor resides upon it to manage
the natives, and look after its produce, which consists, among other articles, of sugar. For-
merly it was made on!y by bruising the canes, and boiling the juice to a syrup, in the same
manner as toddy ; but great improvements have lately been made in prei)arii)g this valuable
commodity. The three little islands called the Solars arc also under the influence of the
Dutch settlement at Concordia : they are flat and low, but abound with provisions of every
kind, and the middlemost is said to have a good harbour for shipping. Ende, another little
island to the westward of the Solars, is still in the hands of the Portuguese, who have a good
town and harbour on the north-east corner of it, called Larntuca : they had formerly a har-
bour on the south side of it, but that being much inferior to Larntuca, has for some time been
altogether neglected.

The inhabitants of each of these little islands speak a language peculiar to themselves, and
it is an object of Dutch policy to prevent, as much as possible, their learning the language
of each other. If they spoke a common language, they would learn, by a mutual intercourse
with each other, to plant such things as would be of more value to themselves than their
present produce, though of less advantage to the Dutch ; but their languages being diftcrent,
they can communicate no such knowledge to each other, and the Dutch secure to themselves
the benefit of supplying their several necessities upon their own terms, which it is reasonable
to supj)ose are not very moderate. It is probably with a view to this advantage that the
Dutcli never teach their own language to the natives of these islands, and have been at the
expense of translating the Testament and catechisms into the difi"erent languages of each ; for
in proportion as Dutch had become the language of their religion, it would have become the
common language of them all.

To this account of Savu, I shall only add a small specimen of its language, by wliich it
will appear to have some affinity with that of the South Sea Islands, many of the worda
being exactly the same, and the numbers manifestly derived from the same source.

Kissovci yilla.
. , C'ainacoo.
Wiilaba.
C'almoii.
Djaia.
. . Viivcc.
Doomba.
. Kesavoo.
(iuaca.
Maio.
. Mannu.
, , Carow.

. Pangoutoo.
. . lea.

Uiijoo.
. . . Nicu.

Boarerec.
. . Calclla.
, . Canana.

} 1

^ man

Momonnc.

The Iocs

A tvoman

M(i1)iiiine.

The arms .

The head

. . Catoo.

The hand

The hair

, Row catoo.

A buffalo .

The eyes .

. . Malta.

A horse ,

The eyelashes .

. Rowna inatta.

A hog

The nose .

Swaiiga.

A sheep .

The cheeks

. . Cavaranga.

A goat

The ears .

Wddccloo.

A (tog

The tongue .

. Vaio.

A cat .

The neck .

. . Lacoco,

A fowl .

The breasts

. . Sonsno.

The tail ,

The nipples

. Caboo eoosoo.

The beak

The belly

. Dulloo.

A Jith

The navel .

. . Afsno.

A turtle .

The thighs

. Tonga.

A cocoa-nut

The knees

. . Rontoo.

Fan -palm

The legs

. Baibo.

Areca

The feet .

. . Dunceala.

Hetel

]Wf''

2f)2

COOK'S FIRST V.OYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

I.ime .

A oil.

A fish-hnnk

Maiiiiiuliio

Tullow, Ihe

marks

on thi^

skin

T:it.l.

The sun

liOllo.

The union .

VVurroo.

The sen

Aiilasscc.

If (iter

Aileii.

fire

Afc.

To (lie

•

Maatc.

To ileep

Tabudpii'.

To rise

Talcftoo.

One

Isse.

Tiro .

liliim.

Three .

TuUu.

Faiir .
Fiee
Si.r .
See en
Eijiht
Nine
Ten .
Eleven .
20 .
100

1000 .
10,000 .
100,000
1,000,000

Oct. 1770.

l'[i))iili.

I.miiinc.

I'liiia.

I'l-.lii.

Aii'ii.

Sunn.

Singoorno.

Siiigiiniiij; 119SC

Lhuaiigocii'oo,

."^ing assu.

Sctiippali.

Sflacussa.

Se'uta.

8crtl,-.o.

In this account of the island of Savu it must bo remembered, that except the facts in
which we were parties, and the account of the objects wliich we had an opportunity to
examine, the whole is founded merely upon the report of 3Ir. Lange, upon whose authority
alone therefore it must rest.

II i

li %

■ (

CUAPTEU X. TOE RUN FROM TItE ISLAND OP SAVD TO BATAVIA, AM> AN ACCOUNT OP

THE TRANSACTIONS TUERE WHILE THE SHIP WAS REFITTING.

In the morning of Friday, the 21st of September, 1770, we got under sail, and stood away
to the westward, along the north side of the island of Savu, and of the smaller that lies to
the westward of it, which at noon bore from us S.S.E., distant two leagues. At four o'clock
in the afternoon, we discovered a small low island, bearing S.S.W., distant three leagues,
which has no place in any chart now extant, at least in none that I have been able to pro-
cure : it lies in latitude 10° 47' S., longitude 2'A8° 28' W. At noon on the 22d, we were in
latitude 1 1° 10' S., longitude 240° 38' W. In the evening of the 23d, we found the variation
of the needle ^o be 2° 44' W. ; as soon as we got clear of the islands, we had constantly a
swell from the southward, which I imagined was not caused by a wind blowing from
that quiirter, but by the sea being so determined by the position of the coast of New
Holland.

At noon on the 26th, being in latitude 10" 47' S., longitude 249° 52' W., we found the
variation to be 3° 10' W., and our situation to be twenty-five miles to the northward of the
log ; for which I know not how to account. At noon, on the 27th, our latitude, by obser-
vation, was 10^ 51' S., wliich was agreeable to the log ; and our longitude was 252° 11' W.
We steered N.W. all day on the 28th, in order to make the land of Java ; and at noon, on
the 29th, our latitude by observation was 9° 31' S., longitude 254° 10' W. ; and in the
morning of the 30tli, I toyk into my possession the log-book and journals, at least all I could
find, of the officers, petty officers, and seamen, and enjoined them secrecy with respect to
where they had been. At seven in the evening, being in the latitude of Java Head, and not
seeing any land, I concluded that we were too far to the westward : I therefore hauled up
E.N.E., having before steered N. by E. In the night, we had thunder and lightning ; and
about twelve o'clock, by the light of the flashes, we saw the land bearing east. I then tacked
and stood to the S. W. till four o'clock in the morning of the 1st of October ; and at six, Java
Head, or the west end of Jiva, bore S.E. by E., distant five leagues: soon after we saw
Prince's Island, bearing E. i S. ; and at ten, the island of Cracatoa, bearing N.E. Cracatoa
is a remarkably high-peaked island, and at noon it bore N. 40 E., distant seven leagues.

I must now observe, that during our run from Savu, I allowed twenty minutes a-day for
the westerly current, which I concluded must run strong at this time, especially off the coast
of Java ; and I found that this allowance was just equivalent to the efil'ct of the current upon
the ship. At four o'clock in the morning of the 2d, we fetched close in with the coast of
Java, in fifteen fathom ; we then stood along the coast, and early in the forenoon I sent the
boat ashore to try if she could procure some fruit for Tupia, who was very ill, and some grass
for the buffaJocs that were still alive. In an hour or two she returned with four cocoa-nuts,

■HI

Oct. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

293

usse.
•00.

he facts in
rtunity to
I authority

:COUNT OF

itood away
that lies to
our o'clock
26 leagues,
)le to pro-
.ve were in
e variation
)nstantly a
wing from
3t of New

found the
vard of the
, by obser-
52° U' W.
it noon, on
md in the
all I could

respect to
id, and not

hauled up
;ning; and
hen tacked
,t six, Java
er we saw
Cracatoa
jagues.
3 a-day for
S the coast
irrent upon
he coast of

I sent tlic
some grass
cocoa-nuts,

and a small bunch of plantains, which had been purchased for a shilling, and some herbage
for the cattle, which the Indians not only gave us, but assisted our people to cut. The
country looked like one continued wood, and had a very pleasant appearance. About eleven
o'clock, we saw two Dutch ships lying off Anger Point, and I sent Air. Ilicks on board of
one of them to inquire news of our country, from wliicli we liad been absent so long. In
the mean time it ft^ll calm, and about noon I anchored in eighticii fathom with a muddy
bottom. When Mv. Ilicks returned, ho reported that the ships were Dutch East Indianu'U
from Batavia, one of which was bound to Ceylon, and the other to the coast of ]\Ialabar ; and
that there was also a fly-boat or packet, which was said to be stationed here to carry letters
from the Dutch ships that came hither to Batavia, but which I ratlicr think was appointed
to examine all ships that pass the Strait : from these sliijis we heard, with great i)leasurc,
that the Swallow had been at Batavia about two years bi fore.

At seven o'clock a breeze sprung up at S.S.AV., with whicli having weighed, we stood to
the N.E. between Thwart-thc- way-Island and the Cap, sounding from eighteen to twenty-
eight fathom : we had but little wind all night, and having a strong current against us, we
got no further by eight in the morning than Bantam Point. At tliis time the wind came to
the N.E., and obliged us to anchor in two-and-twenty fatliom, at about the distance of two
miles from the shore ; the point bore N.E. by E., distant one league, and here we found a
strong current setting to the N.AV. In the morning we had seen the Dutch packet standing
after us, but when the wind sliifted to the N.E. she bore away. At six o^clock in the even-
ing, the wind having obliged us to continue at anchor, one of the country boats came alongside
of us, on board of which was the master of the packet. He seemed to have two motives for
his visit, one to take an account of the shij), and the other to sell us refreshments ; for in the
boat were turtle, fowls, ducks, parrots, parroquets, rice-birds, monkeys, and other articles,
which they held at a very high price, and bnmght to a bad market, for our Savu stock was
not yet expended : however, I gave a Spanish dollar for a small turtle, which weighed about
six-and-thirty pounds ; I gave also a dollar for ten largo fowls, and afterwards bought fifteen
more at the same price ; for a dollar we might also have bought two monkeys, or a whole
cage of rice-birds. The master of the sloop brought with him two books, in one of which
he desired that any of our officers would write down the name of the ship and its commander,
with that of the place from which she sailed, and of the port to which she was bound, with
such other particulars relating to themselves, as they might think propir, for the information
of any of our friends that should come after us : and in the other he entered the names of the
ship and the commander, himself, in order to transmit them to the Governor and Council of
the Indies. We perceived that in the first book many ships, particularly Portuguese, had made
entries of the sivme kind with that for which it was presented to us. Mr. Ilicks, however,
having written the name of the ship, only added " from Europe." He took notice of this,
but said, that he was satisfied with anything we thought fit to write, it being intended merely
for the information of those who should inquire after us from motives of friendship.

Having made several attempts to siiil with a wind that would not stem the current, and
as often come to an anchor, a proa came alongside of us in the morning of the 5th, in which
was a Dutch officer, who sent me down a printed paper in English, duplicates of which he
had in other languages, particularly in French and Dutch, all regularly signed, in the name
of the Governor and Council of the Indies, hv their secretary : it contained nine questions,
very ill expressed in the following terms :

" I. To what nation the ship belongs, and its name ?

"2. If it comes from Europe, or any other place?

"3. From what place it lastly departed from ?

"4. AVhcreunto designed to go?

" 5. W^liat and how many ships of the Dutch Company by departure from the last shore
there layed, and their names ?

" a. If one or more of these ships in company with this, is departed for this or any other
place ?

" 7. If during the voyage any particularities is happened or seen ?

" 8. If not any ships in sea, or the Straits of Sunda, have seen or hailed in, and which ?

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" 9. If any otlicr news worth of attention, at the place from whence the ship lastly
departed, or during the voyage, is happened ?

" Batavia, in the Castl\

" 13y order of the Covcrnor-fieneral

" and the Counsellors of India,

" J. BUANDER BUNGL, ScC."

Wl 'i

Of these questions I an&wercd only the first and the fourth ; whieh when the officer saw,
he said answers to the rest were of no consequence : yet he immediately added, that he must
send that very paper away to Batavia, and that it would be there the next day at noon. I
have particularly i-elated tliis incident, because I have been credibly informed that it is but
of late years that the Dutch have taken upon them to examine ships that pass through this
Strait.

At ten o'clock the same morning, wc weighed, with a light breeze at S.W. ; but did little
more than stem the current, and about two o'clock anchored again under Bantam Point,
where we lay till nine ; ;i light breeze then springing up at S.E., we weighed and stood to the
eastward till ten o'clock the next morning, when tlie current obliged us again to anchor in
twenty-two fathom, Puiababi bearing E. by S. ^ S., distant between three and four miles.
Having alternately weighed and anchored several times, till four in the afternoon of the 7th,
we then stood to tlie eastward, with a very faint breeze at N.E., and passed Wapen Island,
and the first island to the eastward of it ; when the wind dying away, we were carried by the
current between the first and second of the islands that lie to the eastward of Wapen Island,
where wc were obliged to anchor in thirty fathom, being very near a ledge of rocks that run
out fronj one of the islands. At two the next morning we weighed with the land wind at
south, and stood out clear of the shoal ; but before noon were obliged to come to again in
twenty-eight fathom, near a small island among those that are called the Thousand Islands,
vhich we did not find laid down in any chart. Pulo Pare at this time bore E.N.E., distance
between six and seven miles.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went ashore upon the island, which they found not to be
more than five hundred yards long, and one hundred broad ; yet there was a house upon it,
and a small plantation, where among other things was the Palma Christi, from which the
castor-oil is made in the West Indies : they made a small addition to their collection of
plants, and shot a bat, whose wings when extended measured three feet from point to point :
they shot also four plovers, which exactly resembled the golden plover of England. Soon
after they returned, a small Indian boat came alongside with two Alalays on board, who
brought three turtles, some dried fish, and a few pumpkins : we bought the turtle, which
altogether weighed a hundred and forty-six pounds, for a dollar, and considering that we
had lately paid the Dutchman a dollar for one that weighed only six-and-thirty pounds,
we thought we had a good bargain. The seller ai)peared equally satisfied, and we then
treated with him for his pumpkins, for which he was very xmwilling to take any money but
a dollar ; we said that a whole dollar was greatly too nmcli ; to which he readily assented,
but desired that we would cut one and give him a part : at last, however, a fine shining
Portuguese petack tempted him, and for that he sold us his whole stock of pumpkins, being
in number twenty-six. At parting, ho made signs that we should not tell at Batavia that
any boat had been aboard us.

AVe were not able to weather Pulo Pare this day, but getting the land wind at sonth
about ten o'clock at night, we weighed and stood to the E.S.E. all night. At ten in the
morning, we anchored again, to wait for the sea breeze ; and at noon it sprung up at N.X.E.,
with which we stood in for Batavia road, where at four o'clock in the afternoon we came to
an anchor.

We found here the Ilarcourt Indiaman from England, two English private traders of that
country, thirteen sail of large Dutch ships, and a considerable number of small vessels. A
boat came immediately on board from a ship which had a broad pendant flying, and the
officer who commanded, having incpiired who we were, and whence we came, immediately
returned with such answers as we thought fit to give him : both he and his people were as

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

205

pale as spectres, a sad presage of our sufteriiigs in so imlicaltliy a country ; but our jicoplo,
who, except Tupia, were all rosy anil plump, seemed to think themselves so seasoned by
various climates that nothinjj could hurt them. In the njean time, I sent a lieutenant
ashore to acquaint the (iovenior of our arrival, and to make an excuf^e for our not saluting ;
for as I could salute with only three guns, except the swiviljj, which I was of oj)inion would
not be heard, I thought it was better to let it alone. As soon as the boat wns desi)atehed,
the carpenter delivered nio an account of the defects of the ship, of which the following
is a copy :
" The defects of his Majesty's bark Endeavour, Lieutenant James Cook Commander,

" The ship very leaky, as she makes from twelve to six inches water an hour, occasioned
by her main keel being wounded in many places, and the scarfs of her stern being very
open : the false keel gone beyond the midships from forward, and perhaps farther, as I had
no opportunity of seeing for the water when hauled ashore for repairing : wounded on the
larboard side under the main channel, where I imagine the greatest leak is, but could not
come at it for the water : one pump on the larboard side useless ; the others decayed within
an inch and a half of the bore. Otherwise masts, yards, boats, and hull, in pretty good
condition."

As it was the universal opinion that the ship could not safely proceed to Europe without
an examination of her bottom, I determined to apply for leave to heave her down at this
place ; and as I understood that it would be necessary to make this application in writing,
I drew up a request, and the next morning, having got it translated into Dutch, we all
went ashore.

We repaired immediately to the house of Mr. Lcith, the only Englishman of any credit
who IS resident at this place ; he received us with great politeness, and engaged us to
dinner : to this gentleman we applied for instructions how to provide ourselves with
lodgings and necessaries while we should stay ashore, and he told us, that there was an hotel
or kind of inn, kept by the order of government, where all merchants and strangers were
obliged to reside, paying half per cent, upon the value of their goods for warehouse room,
which the m.aster of the house was obliged to provide; but that as we came in a king's ship,
we should be at liberty to live where we pleased, upon asking the governor's permission,
which would be granted of course. He said, that it would be cheaper for us to take a house
in the town, and bring our own servants ashore, if we had anybody upon whom wo could
depend to buy in our provisions ; but as this was not the case, having no person among us
who could speak the JVlalay language, our gentlemen determined to go to the hotel. At the
hotel, therefore, beds were inmiediately hired, and word was sent that we should sleep
there at night. At five o'clock in the afternoon, I was introduced to the governor-general,
who received me very courteously ; he told me, tha> ^ liould have everything I wanted,
and that in the morning my request should be laid before the council, which I was desired
to attend.

About nine o'clock, we had a dreadful storm of thunder, lightning, and rain, during
which the mainmast of one of the Dutch East Indiamcn was split, and carried away by the
deck ; the main-top-mast and top-gallant mast were shivered all to pieces ; she had an iron
spindle at the main-top-gallant masthead, which probably directed the stroke. This ship
lay not more than the distance of two cables' length from ours, and in all probability we
should have shared the same fate, but for the electrical chain which we had but just got up,
and which conducted the lightning over the side of the ship ; but though we escaped the
lightning, the explosion shook us like an i -rthquake, the chain at the same time appearing
like a line of fire : a sentinel was in the action of charging his piece, and the shock forced
the musket out of his hand, and broke the rammer rod. Upon this occasion, I cannot but
earnestly recommend chains of the same kind to every ship, whatever be htr destination,
and I hope that the fate of the Dutchman will be a warning to all who shall read this
narrative, against having an iron spindle at the masthead.

The next morniuji I attended at the council-chamber, and was told that I should have
everything I wanted. In tlie mean time, the gentlemen ashore agreed with the keeper of
the hotel for their lodging and board, at the rate of two rix-dollars, or nine shillings sterling,

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 1770.

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a-(Uy for each ; and as there were five of them, and they wonid probably have many visitors
from the ship, he agreed to keep them a separate tabU*, upon condition that they shouhl pay
one rix-dollar for the dinner of every stranger, and anotlier for liis supper and bed, if he
should sleep ashore. Under this stipulation, they were to be furnished witli tea, coflTce,
punch, pipes and to'iiteeo, for themselves and their friends, as much as they could consume;
they were also to pay half a rupee, or one shilling and three-pence, a-day for each of t! eir
servants.

They soon learnt that these rates were more than double the common charges of board
and lodging in the town ; and their table, though it had tlie a])pearance of magnificence,
was wretchedly served. Their dinner consisted of one course of fifteen dishes, and their
Bupper of one course of thirteen, but nine or ten of them consisted of bad poultry, variously
dressed, and often served up the second, third, and even the fourth time : the same duck
having appeared more than once roasted, found his way again to the table as a fricassee, and
a fourth time in the form of forced meat. It was not long, however, before they learned
that this treatment was only by way of es-ay, and that it was the invariable custom of the
house, to supply all strangers, at their first coming, with such fare as ctiuld be procured for
the least money, and consequently would produce the most gain : that if, either through
indolence or good nature, tliey were content, it was continued for the benefit of the host ;
but that if they complained, it was gradually amended till they were satisfied, which some-
times happened before they had the worth of their money. After this discovery, they
remonstrated, and their fare became better ; however, after a few days, Mr. Banks hired a
little house, the next door on the jeft hand to the hotel, for himself and his party, for which
be piiid after the rate of ten rix-dollars, or two pounds five shillings sterling, a-month ; but
here they were very f^"* irom having either the convenience or the privacy which they
expected; no person '.as permitted to sleep in this private house occasionally, as a guest
to the person who hired it, under a penalty ; but almost every Dutchman that went by ran
in without any ceremony to ask what they sold, there having been very seldom any private
persons at Batavia who had not something to sell. Everybody here hires a carriage, and
Mr. Banks hired two. They are open chaise?, made to hold two people, and driven by a
man sitting on a coach-box ; for each of these he paid two rix-dollars a-day.

As soon as he was settled in his new habitation, he sent for Tupia, who till now hivd
continued on board upon account of his illness, which was of the bilious kind, and for which
he had obstinately refused to take any medicine, lie soon came ashore, with his boy
Tayeto, and though while he was on board, and after he came into the boat, he was exceed-
ingly listless and dejected, he no sooner entered the town than he seemed to be animated
■with a new soul. The houses, carriages, streets, people, and a multiplicity of other objects,
all new, which rushed upon him at once, produced an effect like the sudden and secret power
that is imagined of fascination. Tayeto expressed his wonder and delight with still lesa
restraint, and danced along the street in a kind of ecstacy, examining every object with a
restless and eager curiosity, which was every moment excited and gratified. One of tiie
first things that Tupia remarked, was the various dresses of the passing multitude, concerning
which he made many inquiries ; and when he was told that in this place, where people of
many different nations were assembled, every one wore the habit of his country, he desired
that he might conform to the custom, and appear in that of Otah ite. South Sea cloth was
therefore sent for from the ship, and he equipped himself with grea t expedition and dexterity.
The people who had seen Otourou, the Indian who had been brought hither by M. Bougain-
ville, inquired whether Tujiia was not the same person : from tlase inquiries, we learned
who it was that we had supi)osed to be Spaniards, from the accounts that had been given
of two ships by the Islanders.

In the mean time, I procured an order to the superintendant of the island of Onnist, where
the ship was to be rejjaired, to receive her there ; and sent, by one of the ships that sailed
for Holland, an account of our arrival here, to Mr. Stephens, the secretary to the admiralty.
The expenses that would be incurred by repairing and refitting the ship rendered it necessary
for me to take up money in this place, which I imagined might be done without difficulty :
but I found myself mistaken ; for, after the most diligent inquiry, I could not find any

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COOK'S FIRST VOYA(JE ROUND THE WORLD.

297

private person that liad ability and inclination to advance the sum tliat I wanted. In tliia
difficulty I applied to the governor himself, by a written request ; in consequence of which,
the Shebander had orders to eupply mo with what money I should require out of tho
Company's treasury.

On the UUh, as soon as it was light, having by several accidents and mistakes suffered a
delay of many d.iys, 1 took uj) tlie anchor, and ran down to Onrust : a few days afterwards
we went alongside of the wharf, on Cooper's Island, which lies close to Onrust, in order to
take out our stores. By this time, having been here only nine days, we began to feel the
fatal effects of the climate and situation. Tupia, after the flow of spirits which the novelties
of the place produced upon his first landing, sunk on a sudden, and grew every day worse
and worse. Tayeto was seized with an inflanmiation upon his lungs, Mr. Banks's two
servants became very ill, and himself and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers : in a few
days almost every person both on board and ashore were sick ; affected, no doubt, by the
low, swampy situation of tho place, aud tho numberless dirty canals which intersect the
town in all directions. On the 2(}th, I set up the tent for the reception of the ship's company,
of whom there was but a small number able to do duty. Poor "Tupia, of whose life we now
began to despair, and who till this time had continued ashore with Mr. Banks, desired to bo
removed to the ship, where, he said, he should breathe a freer air than among the numerous
houses which obstructed it ashore : on board the ship, however, he could not go, for she was
unrigged, and preparing to be laid down at the careening-place ; but on the 28th, Mr.
Banks went with him to Cooper's Island, or, as it is called here, Kuypor, wlicrc she livy ;
and as he seemed pleased with the spot, a tent was there pitched for him : at this place both
the sea-breeze and the land-breeze blew directly over him, and he expressed great satisfaction
in his situation. Mr. Banks, whose humanity kept him two days with this poor Indian,
returned to the town on the 30th, and the fits of his intermittent, which was now become a
regular tertian, were so violent as to deprive him of his senses while they lasted, and leave
him so weak that he was scarcely able to crawl down stairs : at this time Dr. Solander'a
disorder also increased, and Mr. IMonkhousc the surgeon was confined to his bed.

On the 5th of November, after many delays, in consequence of the Dutch ships coming
.ilongside the wharfs to load pepper, the ship was laid down, and the same day Mr. !Monk-
house, our surgeon, a sensible, skilful man, fell the first sacrifice to this fatal country, a loss
which was greatly aggravated by our situation. Dr. Solander was just able to attend his
funeral, but Mr. Banks was confined to his bed. Our distress was now very great, and tho
prospect before us discouraging in the highcbt degree : our danger was not such as we could
surmount by any efforts of our own ; courage, skill, and diligence, were all equally ineffectual,
and death was every day making advances upon us, where we could neither resist nor fly.
Malay servants were hired to attend the sick, but they had so little sense either of duty or
humanity, that they could not be kept within call, and the patient was frequently obliged
to get out of bed to seek them. On the 9th, we lost our poor Indian boy Tayeto, and
Tupia was so much affected, that it was doubted whether he would survive till the next day.

In the mean time, the bottom of the ship being examined, was found to be in a worse
condition than we apprehended : the false keel was all gone to within twenty feet of the
stern-post ; the main keel was considerably injured in many places ; and a great quantity
of the sheathing was torn off, and several planks were much damaged ; two of them, and
the half of a third, under the main channel near the keel, were, for the length of six feet, so
worn, that they were not above an eighth part of an inch thick, and here the worms had
made their way quite into the timbers ; yet in this condition she had sailed many hundred
leagues, where navigation is as dangerous as in any part of the world : how much misery
did we escape, by being ignorant that so considerable a part of the bottom of the vessel was
thinner than the sole of a shoe, and that every life on board depended upon so slight and
frairile a barrier between us and the unfathomable ocean ! It seemed, however, that wo had
been preserved only to perish here : Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were so bad, that the
physician declared they had no chance for recovery but by removing into the country;
a house was therefore hired for them at the distance of about two miles from the town, which
belonged to the master of the hotel, who engaged to furnish them with provisions, and the

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tiso of slaves. Ah tiny li.ifl aln-aily experienced tlieir \»'aiit of influence over slaves tliat liaJ
other nmsters, ami the unfeclinj^ inattention of tlie*e fellows to tlie sick, tliey honglit each
of them a Malay woman, which removed both the causes of their heiuf^r so ill served; tlio
women were their own i)r(>j>erty, ami the tenderness of the sex, even here, made them ;;ooil
nurses. While these preparations were making, they received an aeeount of the death
of Tnpia, who sunk at once after the loss of the boy, whom hu loved with the tenderness of
a i>arent.

By the 14tli, the bottom of the ship %v.'i.s thoroughly repaired, and very much to my
satisfaction ; it would, indeed, bo injustice to the officers and workmen of this yard, not to
declare that, in my oj)inioM. there is not a marine yard in tlie world where a ship can bo
laid down with more convenience, safety, and despatch, nor repaired with more dilijjenco
and skill. At this place they heave down by two masts, a method which we do not now
practise : it is, however, unquestionably more safe and exjieditious to heave down with two
masts than one ; and he must have a good share of bigotry to old customs, and an equal
want of common sense, who will not allow this, after seeing with what facility the Dutch
heave down their largest ships at this place.

]\Ir. Banks and Dr. Solander recovered slowly at tlieir conntry-honsp, which was not only
open to the sea-breeze, but situated upon a running stream, which greatly contributed to the
circulation of the air: but I was now taken ill myself; Mr. Sp()ring and a seaman who had
attended Mr. Banks were also seized with intermittents ; and, indeed, there was not more
than ten of tlio whole shij)'s company that were able to do duty. We proceeded, however,
in rigging the ship, and getting -^vater and stores aboard: the water we were obliged to
procure from Batavia, at the rate of six shillings and cightpcncc a leagcr, or one hundred
and fifty gallons.

About the 26th, the westerly monsoon sot in, wliicli generally blows here in the night
from the S.W., and in the day from the N'.W". or N. For some nights before thif we had
very heavy rain, with much thunder ; and in the night between the 2."»th and '' such
rain as wc had seldom seen, for near four hours without intermission. ]\Ir. Bai oiiso

admitted the water in every part like a sieve, and it ran through the lower rooris in a
stream that would have turned a mill ; he was by this time sufficiently /Cc^overcd t.» go out,
and, upon his entering Batavia the next morning, be was much surprised to see the
bedding everywhere hung out to dry. The wet season was now set in, though we had
some intervals of fair weather. The frogs in the ditches, which croak ten times louder than
any frogs in Europe, gave notice of rain by an incessant noise that was almost intolerable,
and the gnats and mosquitos, which had been very troublesome even during the dry weather,
were now become innumerable, swarming from every plash of water like bees from a hive :
they did not, however, much incommode us in the day, and the stings, however trouble-
some at first, never continued to itch above lialf an hour, so that none of us felt in the day
the effects of the wounds they had received in the night.

On the 8th of December, the ship being perfectly refitted, and having taken in most of
licr water and stores, and received the sick on board, we ran up to Batavia Road, and
anchored in four fathom and a half of w-ater. From this time, to the 24th, we were
employed in getting on board the remainder of our water and provisions, with some new
pumps, and in several other operations that were necessary to fit the ship for the sea, all
which would have been effected much sooner, if sickness and death had not disabled or
carried off a great number of our men.

AVhile we lay here, the Earl of Elg-ii, Captain Cook, a ship belonging to the English
East India Company, came to an a' ichor in the road. She was bouud from ISIadras to
China, but having lost her passage, put in here to wait for the next season. The Phoenix,
Captain Black, an English country ship, from Bencoolen, also vanio to an anchor at this
place.

In the afternoon of Christmas eve, the 24th, I took leave of the governor, and several of
the principal gentlemen of the place, with whom I had formed connexions, and from whom
I received every possible civility and assistance ; but in the mean time an accident happened,
which might have produced disagreeable consequences. A seaman had run away from one

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of tlio Dutch sliipH in tlio road, and entered on board of mine : tlie captain had applied to
the governor, to reclaim him as a siihject of Holland, and an order for that purpose \vas>
procured : this ordiT was brought to nie soon after I returned from my lai^t visit, and 1 said,
that if the man apjjeared to be a Dutchman, he ylioiild certainly he delivered up. Mr. Dicka
eonunanded on hoard, and I gave the Dutch officer an order to him, to deliver the man up
under tliat condition. 1 sl(i)t myself this night on shore, and, in the morning, the ca]>tain
of the Dutcii connnodore came and told me that ho had carried my order on hoard, but that
the officer had refused to deliver up the man, alleging, not only that he was not a Dutch-
man, but that ho was a sul»ject of (ireat Britain, born in Ireland: 1 replied, that the officer
liad perfectly executed my orders, and that if the nuiii was an Knglish subject, it could not
be expected that I should deliver him up. The ca|)tain then said, that he Mas just come
from the governor, to demand the Juan of me in his name, as a subject of Denmark, alleging
that ho stood in thu ship's books as born at I'ilsineur. The claim of this man as a subject of
Holland being now given up, I observed to the captain that there ap])eared to be some
mistake in the general's message, for that he would certaiidy never demand a Danish seaman
from me, who had conmiitted no other crime than preferring the service of the I'jiglish to
that of tho Dutch. I added, however, to convince him of my sincere desire to avoid
disputes, that if tho man was a Dane he should be delivered up as a courtesy, though ho
could not bo demanded as a right ; but that if I found ho was an English subject, I would
keep him at all events. Upon these terms wo i)arted, and soon after I received a letter
from Mr. Hicks, containing indubitable proof that tho seaman in question was a sid>jeet of
liis Britannic Majesty. This letter I immediately carried to the Shebandcr, with a request
that it might be shown to the governor, and that his excellency might at the same time bo
told I would not upon any terms part with the man. This had the desired effect, and I
heard no more of tho affair. In tho eveniIl^', I went on board, accompanied by jMr. lianks,
and tho rest of the gentlemen who had constantly resided on shore, and who, though better,
were not yet perfectly recovered.

At six in tho morning of the 2(5th, wo weighed and set sail, with a light breeze at S.W.
The Elgin Indiaman saluted us with three cheers and thirteen guns, and the garrison with
fourteen, both which, with the help of our swivels, we returned, and soon after tho sea-
breeze set in at N. by W., which obliged us to anchor just without the ships in tho road.
At this time the number of sick on board amounted to forty, and the rest of the ship's
company were in a very feeble condition. Every individual had been sick except the sail-
maker, an old man between seventy and eighty years of age, and it is very remarkable that
this old num, during our stay at this jilace, was constantly drunk every day : wo had buried
seven, the surgeon, three seamen, Mr. Green's servant, Tiq)ia, and Tayeto his hoy. All
but Tnjna fell a sacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, putrid air of the country ; and ho
•who, from his birth, had been used to subsist chiefly upon vegetable food, particularly ripe
fruit, soon contracted all tho disorders that are incident to a sea life, and would probably
have sunk under them before we could have completed our voyage, if wc had not beeu
obliged to go to Batavia to refit.

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CHAPTER XI.— SOME ACCOUNT OF HATAVIA, AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRY — WITH THEIR
FRUITS, FLOWERS, AND OTHER PRODUCTIONS.

Batavia, tho capital of the Dutch dominions in India, and generally supposed to have
no equal among all the possessions of the Europeans in Asia, is sit'iated on the north side of
the island of Java, in a low fenny plain, where several small rivers, which take their rise in
the mountains called Blaeuwen Berg, about forty miles up the country, cini)ty themselves
into the sea, and where the coast forms a large bay, called the Bay of Batavia, at tho
distance of about eight leagues from tho Strait of Sunda. It lies in latitude 0" 10' S., and
longitude 106° 50' E. from the meridian of Greenwich, as appears from astronomical
observations made upon the spot, by the Reverend JMr. Mohr, who has built an elegant
observatory; which is as well furnished with instruments as most in Europe.

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Tlie Dutcli seem to have nitched upon this spot for the convenience of water-carriage ;
and in that it is, indeed, a second Holland, and superior to every other place in the world.
Tliere are very few streets that have not a canal of conciderable breadth running through
them, or rather stagnating in them, and continued for several milc^ in almost every direction
beyond the town, which is also intersected by live or six rivers, some of which are navigable
thirty or forty miles up the country. As the houses are large, and the streets wide, it
takes up a much greater extent, in proporti(m to the number of houses it contains, than any
cit/ in Europe. Valentyn, who wrote an account of it about the year 1726, says, that in
his time there were, within the walls, 1242 Dutch houses and 12(K) Chinese; and without
the wails 10G6 Dutch, and 1240 Chinese, besides 12 arrack-lrnises, making in all 47<iO:
but this accouiit appeared to us to be greatly exaggerated, especially with respect to tlio
number of houses within the walls.

The streets arc spacious and handsome, and the banks of the canals are planted with rows
of trees, that make a very pleasing ap])earancc • but the trees concur with the canals to
make the siti'.ation unwholesome. Tlw. stagnant canals in the dry season exhale an intolerable
stench, and the trees impede the course of the air, by >vhich, in some degree, the putrid
effluvia would be dissip<ated. In the wet season the inconvenience is equal, for then these
reservoirs of corrupted water overflow their banks in the lower part of the town, especially
in the neighbourhood of the hotel, and fill the lower stories of the houses, where they leave
behind them an inconceivable quantity of slime and filth : yet these canals tire somptimes
cleaned ; but the cleaning them is so managed as to become as great a nuisance as the f'^.ilness
of the water : for the black mud' that is taken from the bottom is suffered to lie upon the
banks, that is, in the middle of the street, till it has pffjuired a sufficient di„'ee of hardness to
be made the lading of a boat and carried away. As this mud consists chiefly of human
ordure, which is regularly thrown into tlie canals every morning, thore not being a necessary-
house in the whole town, it poisons the air while it is drying to a considerable extent.
Even the running streams become nuisances in their turn, by the nastiness or negligence
of the people : for every now and then a dead hog, or a dead horse, is stranded upon the
shallow parts, and it being the business of no particular person to remove the nuisance, it ia
neglit'ently left to time and accident. While we were here, -i dead buffalo lay upon the
shoal of a river that ran through one of the principal streets f.bove a week, and at last was
carried away by a flood.

The houses are, in general, well adapted to the climate : they consist of one very largo
room or hall on the gro nd-floor, witli a door at each end, both wl.ich geno'ally stan<l op''ki;
at one end a room is taken oft" by a partition, where the master of t!io 'souse transacts his
business ; and in the middle, between each end. there is a court, which gives light to tho
hall, and at the same time increases tiie d .uight of air. From one coriu'r of the hail tiie
stairs go up to the floor above, where also the rooms arc spacious and airy. In the alcove,
which is formed by the court, the family dine ; and at other times it is occupied by the
female slaves, wiio are not allowed to sit down anywherr else.

The public buildings are, most of them, old, heavy, aiid ungraceful ; but the new church
is not inelegant ; it is built witii a dome, that is seen from a great distance at sea, and
tliough the outside has rather a heavy appearance, the inside forms a very fine room : it is
furnished with an organ of a pro])er size, being very large, and is most magnificently
illuminated by chandeliers.

The town is inclosed l>y a stone wall, of a moderate height- but the whole of it is old,
and many parts are much out of repair. This wall itself is sumnuuled by a river, which in
some places is fifty, and in some a huiulred yards wide : tho stream is rapid, but the water
is shallow. The wall is also lined within by a canal, which in diftcreut parts is of different
breadths; so that, w passing either out or in through the gates, it is necessary to cross two
draw-bridges ; and there is no iicceas for idle j)eople or strangers to w.ilk upon the ramparts,
which seem to be but ill provided with guns.

In the north-east corner of the town stands the castle or citadel, the walls o'. which are
both higrifir and thicker than those of the town, e.-pecially near the landing-place, where
there is depth of water only for 1 oats, which it completely commands, with several largo
guns that make a very good a2)pcarance.

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COOKS FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

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"Within this castle are apartments for the jjovcrnor-ffcneral and all the council of India, to
whicli they arc enjoined to repair in case of a siege. Here are also large storehouses, where
great quantities of tlie Company's goods are kept, ospeciall;, those that are brought from
Europe, and where ahuost all their writers transact their business. In this place also are
laid up a great number of cannon, whether to nx.unt upon the walls or furnish shipping, we
could not learn ; and the Company is &aid to be well supplied with powder, which is dis-
prrsed in various magazines, tliat, if some should be destroyed by lightning, which in thia
place is very frequent, tliu rest may escape.

Besides the fortifications of the town, numerous forts arc dispersed about the country to
the distance of twenty or thirty miles ; these seem to have been intended merely to keep the
natives in awe, and, indeed, they are fit for notiiing else. For the same purpose a kind of
houses, each of which mounts about eight guns, are placed in such situations as command
the navigation of three or four canals, and consequently the roads upon their banks : some
of these are in the town itself, and it was from one of these that all the best houses belonging
to the Chinese were lev; lied with the ground in the Chinese rebellion of 1740. These
defences are scattered over all parts of Java, and the other islands of which the Dutch have
got possession in these seas. Of one of these singular forts, or fortified houses, we should
have jirocured a drawing, if our gentlemen had not been confined by sickness almost all the
time they were apon the island.

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If the Dutch fortifications here are not formidable in themselves, they become so by their
situation: for they arc among morasses where he roads, which are nothing more than
a bank thrown up between a canal and a ditch, may easily be d .oyed, and consequently
the approach of heavy artillery either totally prevented or greatly retarded : for it would
be exceedingly difficult, if rot impossible, to transport them in boats, as they all muster
every night under the guns of the castle, a situation from which it would be impossible for
an enemy to take them. Besides, in this country, delay is death ; so that whatever retards
an enemy, will destroy him. In less than a week, we were sensible of the unhcalthiness of
the climate ; and in less than a month half the ship's company were unable to do their duty.
We were told, that of a hundred soldiers who arrive here from Europe, it was a rare thing for
fifty to survive the first year ; that of those fifty, half would then be in the hospital, and
not ten of the rest in perfect health : possibly this account may be exaggerated ; but the

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Dkc. 17' 0.

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pale and feeble wretches whom we saw crawling about with a musket, which they were
scarcely able to carry, inclined ub to believe that it was true. Every white ii habitant of tho
town, indeed, is a soldier ; the younger are constantly mustered, and those who have served
five years arc liable to be called out when their assistance is thought to be necessary ; but as
neither of them are ever exercised, or do any kind of duty, much cannot be expected from
them. The Portuguese, indeed, are in general good marksmen, because tliey employ them-
selves much in shooting wild hogs and deer : neither the Mardykers nor the Chinese know tho
use of fire-arms ; but as they arc said to be brave, they might do much execution with their
own weapons, swords, lances, and daggers. The Mardykers are Indians of all nations, who
are descended from free ancestors, or have themselves been made free.

But if it is difficult to attack Batavia by land, it is utterly impossible to attack it by sea:
for the water is so shallow, that it will scarcely admit a long-boat to come within cannon
shot of the walls, except in a narrow channel, called the river, that is walled on both sides by
strong piers, and runs about %alf-a-milc into the harbour. At the otner end, it terminates
under the fire of the strongest part of the castle ; and here its communication with the
canals that intersect the town is cut off by a large wooden boom, which is shut every night
at six o'clock, and upon no pretence opened till the next morning. Tlie harbour of Batavia
is accounted tho finest in India, and to all appearance with good reason ; it is large enough
to contain any number of ships, and the ground is so good that one anchor will hold till tho
cable decays : it never admits any sea that is troublesome, and its only inconvenience is the
shoal water between the road and tlie river. When the sea breeze blows fresh, it makes
a cockling sea that is dangerous to boats : our long-boat once stnick two or three times as
she was attempting to come out, and regained the river's mouth with some difficulty. A
Dutcli boat, laden with sails and rigging f( r one of the Indiamen, was entirely lost.

Round tlie harbour, on the outside, iL many islands, which the Dntcli have taken
p sscssion of, and apply to different uses. To one of them, called Edam, they transport
all Europeans who have been guilty of crimes that are not worthy of death : some are
sentenced to remain there ninety-nine years, some forty, some twenty, some less, down to
five, in proportion to their offence; and, duriiig their banishment, they are employed as
slaves in making roi)es, and other drudgery. In another island, called Purmerent, they have
an hospital, where people arc said to recover much faster than at Batavia. In a third,
called Kuyper, they have warehouses belonging to the Company, chiefly for rice, and ot'.:er
niercliandise of small value ; and hero the foreign ships, that are to be laid down at Onrust,
another of these islands, which with Kuyper has been mentioned before, di.jcliarge their
cargoes at wharfs which are very convenient for the purpose. Here the guns, sails, and
otiier stores of the Falmouth, a man-of-war wliich was condemned at this i)lace when she
was returning from Manilla, were deposited, and the ship lierself remained in the harbour,
witli only tiie warrant-officers on board, for many years. Remittances were regularly made
them from home ; but no notice was ever taken of the many memorials they sent, desiring
to be recalled. Happily for them, the Dutch thought fit, about six months befoio our
arrival, to sell the vessel and all her stores, by public auction, and send the officers homo in
their own ships. At Onrust, they repair all their own shii>ping, and keep a large quantity
of naval stores.

The country round Batavia is for some miles a continued range of coimtry-houses and
gardens. — Many of the gardens are very large, and, by some strange fatality, ail are planted
with trees almost as thick as they can stand ; so that the country derives no advantage from
its being cleared of the wood that originally covered it, except the fruit of that which has
been jjlantcd in its room. These impenetrable forests stand in a dead IJ.it, wliich extends
some miles beyond tiiem, and is intersected in many directions by rivers, and more still by
canals, which are navigable for small vessels. Nor is this the worst, for the fence of every
field and garden is a ditch ; and, interspersed among the cultivated ground, there are many
filthy fens, bogs, and morasses, as well fresh as salt.

It is not strange that the inhabitants of such a country should be familiar with disease
and death : preventive medicines are taken almost as regularly as food ; and everybody
expects the returns of sickness, as wo do tlie seasons of the year. We did not see a single

Dec. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

ao3

face in Batavia tliat indicated perfect licaltli, for there is not the least tint of colour in the
cheeks cither of man or woman : the women indeed are most delicately fair ; hut with the
appearance of disease there never can be perfect beauty. People talk of death with as much
indifference as they do in a camp ; and when an acquaintance is said to be dead, the
common reply is, " Well, he owed me nothing ;" or, " I must get my money of his
executors."

To this description of the environs of Batavia there are but two exceptions. The gover-
nor's cauntry-housc is situated upon a rising ground ; but its ascent is so inconsiderable,
that it is known to be above the common level only by the canals being left behind, and the
aj^pearance of a few bad hedges : his Excellency, however, who is a native of this place, has,
with some trouble and expense, contrived to inclose his own garden with a ditch : such is
the influence of habit both upon the taste and the understar/'ing. A famous market also,
called Passar Tanabank, is held upon an eminence that rises perpendicularly about thirty feet
above the plain ; and except these situations, the ground, for an extent of between thirty
and forty miles round Batavia, is exactly parallel to the horizon. At the distance of about
forty miles inland, there are hills of a coasidcrable height, where, as we were informed, the
air is healthy, and comparatively cool. Here the vegetables of Euroi)e flourish in groat
perfection, particularly strawberries, which can but ill bear heat ; and the inhabitants
are vigorous and ruddy. Upon these hills some of the principal people have country-
houses, which they visit once a-year ; and one was begun for the governor, npcm the plan
of Blenheim, the famous seat of the Duke of Marlborough, in Oxfordshire, but it has never
been finished. To these hills also people are sent by the physicians, for tlio recovery of their
health, and the effects of the air are said to be almost miraculous : the patient grows well
in a short time, but constantly relapses soon after his return to Batavia*.

But tiic same situ<ation and circumstances which render Batavia and the country round it
unwholesome, render it the best gardener's ground in the world. The soil is fruitful beyond
imagination, and the conveniences and luxuries of life that it produces are almost without
number.

Rice, which is well known to be the com of these countries, and to serve the inhabitants
instead of bread, grows in great plenty : and I must here observe, that in the hilly parts of
Java, and in many of the eastern islands, a species of this grain is planted, wliich in the
western parts of India is entirely unknown. It is called by the natives Paddi/ (hmutif/, or
Mountain Rico : this, contrary to the other sort, whii li must be under water three parts in
four of the time of its growth, is planted upon the sides of hills wiiere no water but rain
can come: it is however planted at the be 'nning of the rainy season, and reaped in the
beginning of the dry. How far this kind of might be useful in our West Indian islands,
where no bread-corn is grown, it may perhaps b< worth while to inquire.

Indian corn, or maize, is also produced here; wliili tin iuliahitaiits gather \vl 11 young,
and toast in tlie ear. Here is also a great variety of ki<lh y-beans, and hiitils, which they
called Cadjam/, and whicli make a considerable part of th< food of the ommou people ;
besides millet, yams both wet and dry, sweet potatoes, and European potatoes, wliieh are
very good, but not cultivated in great plenty. In the gardens, there are eabbap , lettuces,
cucumbers, radishes, the white radishes of China, which boil almost :i> well as a turnip;
carrots, parsley, celery, pigeon-peas; the egg-plant, which, broiled ate I eaten with pepper
and salt, is very delicious ; a kind of greens resembling spinage ; onions, very small, but
excellent ; and asparagus ; besides some European plants of a strong smell, particularly sage,
liyssop, and rue. Sugar it, also pmduced here in immense quantities ; very L'reat crops of

* Since Captain Cook's vi5it, t)ic tonn of Ibtavia lias passinjr tlic iiiglit witliin the \v;il! Holli tlie trade and

bt'cn ercatly iiniirovcil, partly l)y Imililin^ a new town on
tlic heiglits, wlii'ie all the principal nierctiants rtsiilr, and
pully liy (IcMnolishinir the n§el>'ES rnrtitic.itinns, filling up
Konii' canals, anil cleansing the nllicr;^, anil widening 8<-vcial
oftlic old streets, tneasnres which have been so ciTictuala* to
remove from it its ancient reputation as the inuit nn-
healthy spot in the Kast. The old town is now chiefly
given up to the Chinese, the merchants having only their
warehouses nnd counting-houses there, none of them

l>iipuhitiiin of Batavia have ^i' inercased, especially

within the last ten years. 'I'lie pr> sent nuuiher of inhabit-
ants is estimated at from CO,0UU to 70,000, aiming whom
about 200 Kiiglish subjects aie reckoned, including those
serving in the Dutch mercantile navy. The British nier-
chantg form an iniportant body of mevehants here, and
possess about 2000 square miles of land on the island,
much of which is cultivated with sugar. Sec Earl's
« Eastern Seas," p. 34.— Ed.

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COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1770.

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the finest and largest canes that can be imagined are produced with very little care, and
yield a much larger proportion of sugar tlian the canes in the West Indies. White sugar ia
sold here at twopence lialfpenny a pound ; and the molasses make the arrack, of which,
a9 of rum, it is the chief ingredient ; a small quantity of rice, and some cocoa-nut wine,
being added, chiefly, I suppose, to give it flavour. A small quantity of indigo is also
produced here, not as an article of trade, but merely for home consumption.

But the most abundant article of vegetable luxury here, is the fruit ; of which there are no
less than six-and-thirty diftVrcnt kinds, and I shall give a very brief account of each.

1 . Tiie pine-apple, Bromelia Ananas. This fruit, which is here called Nanas, grows very
large, and in such plenty that they may i^ometimes be bought at the first hand for a farthing
a piece; and at the common fruit-shops we got three of them for twopcnc' halfpenny.
They are very juicy and well flavoured ; but we all agreed that we had eaten as good from
a hothouse in England : they are, however, so luxuriant in their growth that most of them
have two or three crowns, and a great number of suckers from tlie bottom of the fruit ; of
these Mr. Banks once counted nine, and they are so forward, that very often while they
still adhered to the parent plant they shot out their fruit, which, by the time the larje one
became ripe, were of no inconsiderable size. Wc several times saw three upon one apple,
and wcr-: tuld that a plant once produced a cluster of nine, besides the principal : this indeed
was considered as so great a curiosity, that it was preserved in sugar, and sent to the Prince
of Orange.

2. Sweet oranges. These are very good, but while we were here, sold for sixpence a
piece.

3. Pumiiiemooses, which in tlie West Indies are called Shaddocks. Tliese were well
flavoured, but not juicy; their want of juice, however, was an accidental effl'ct of the
season.

4. Lemons. These were very scarce ; but the want of them was amply compensated by
the plenty of limes.

.'). Limes. These were excellent, and to be bought at about twelve-pence a hundred. We
saw only two or three Seville oranges, which were almost all rind ; and there are many sorts,
both of oranges and lemons, which I shall not particularly mention, because they are neither
esteemed by Europeans nor the natives themselves.

6. Mangoes. This fruit during our stay was so infested with maggots, which bred in the
inside of them, that scarcely one in three was eatable ; and the best of them were much
inferior to those of Brazil : they arc generally compaiod by Europeans to a melting peach,
which, indeed, they resemble in softness and sweetness, but certainly fall much short in
flavour. The climate here, we were told, is ioo hot and damp for them ; but there are as
many sorts of them as there are of apples in England, and some are much superior to others.
One sort, which is called Manjka Coicani, has so strong a smell that a European can scarcely
bear one in the room ; these, however, the natives are fond of. The three sorts which
are gem My j)referred, are the Manffha Doodool, the Manyha Santock, and the Mangha
Cure.

7. Bananas. Of these also there are ininimerable sorts, but three only are good ; the
Pissanrf Mas, the Phsan<j RaJJu, and the Pig.tmig Amhou: all these have a pleasant vinous
ta.ste, and the rest are useful in diffi'rent ways; si^ino are fried in batter, and others are
boiled and eaten as bread. There is one which deserve s the particular notice of the botanist,
because, contrary to the nature of its tribe, it is full of seids, and is therefore called Pissang
Batu, or Pmawj B'uljie : it has however no excellence to recommend it to the taste, but
the Malays use it as a remedy for the flux.

8. Grapes. These are not in great perfection, but they are very dear ; for we could not
buy a moderate bunch for less than a shilling or eighteen-pence.

9. Tamarinds. These are in great plenty, and very cheap : the people however do not
put them up in the manner practised by the West Indians, but cure them with salt, by
which means they ^ecome a black mass, so disagreeable to the ght and toatc, that few
Europeans choose to meddle with them.

10. Water-melons. These are in greai plenty, and very good.

1770.

Dec. 1770,

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE ^VORLD.

805

11. Pumpkins. These arc, beyond comparison, the most useful fruit tliat can be carried
to sea; for tliey will keep witliout any care several months, and with sugar and lemon-juice,
make a pic tliat can scarcely bo distinguislud from one miide of tlio best apples ; and with
pepper and salt, they are a substitute for turnips, not to be despised.

12. Pai)aws. This fruit when it is ripe is full of seeds, and almost without flavour; but,
if when it is green it is pared, and the core taken out, it js better tlian the best turnip.

13. Guava. Tliis fruit is much commended by tlie inlial)itauts of our islands in the West
Indies, who probably have a better sort than we met with here, where the smell of them
•was so disagreeably strong, that it made some of us sick; those who tasted them, said, that
the flavour was equally rank.

14. Sweet-sop. The Annona ggunmosa ot Linnajus. This is also a "West Indian fruit;
it consists only of a mass of large kernels, from which a small proportion of pulp may be
sucked, which is very sweet, but lias little flavour.

15. Custard-apple. The Annona reticulata of Linnaeus. The quality of this fruit is
well expressed by its English name, which it acquired in the "West Indies ; for it is as like
a custard, and a good one too, as can be imagined.

16. The cashew apple. This is seldom eaten, on account of its astringency. The nut
that grows upon the top of it is well known in Europe.

17. The cocoa-nut. This is also well known in Europe ; there are several sorts ; but the
best of those we found here is called Callappi Edjou, and is easily known by the redness of
the flesh between the skin and the shell.

18. IVIangostan. The Garcinia Mangostana of Linna?us. This fruit, which is peculiar to
the East Indies, is about the size of the crab-apjde, and of a deep red-wine colour : on the
top of it is the figure of five or six small triangles joined in a circle, and at the bottom
several hollow green leaves, which are remains of tlie blossom. When they are to be eaten,
tlie skin, or rather flesh, must he taken off, under which are found six or seven white kernels,
placed in a circular order, and the pulp with which these are enveloped is the fruit, than
which nothing can be more delicious : it is a happy mixture of the tart and the sweet,
which is no less wholesome than pleasant ; and with tlic sweet orange, this fi ait is allowed
in any quantity to those who are afflicted with fevers, cither of tiie putrid or inflammatory
kind.

1!). The jamboo. The Eur/enia MaUaccensis of Linnrei o. Tiiis fruit is of a deep red
colour, and an oval shape ; the largest, which arc always the best, are not bigger than a
small apple ; they are pleasant and cooling, thougii they iiave not mucli flavour.

20. The jambu-eyer. A species of the Eu//cnia of Linnreus. Of this fruit there arc two
sorts of a similar shape, resembling a bell, but differing in colour ; one being red, the other
white. They somewhat exceed a large el)erry in size, and in taste have neither fla )ur nor
even sweetness, containing nothing but a watery juice, slightly acidulated; yet their coolness
recommends them in this hot country.

21. Jambu-eyer mauwar. The Eiir/enia jamhos at lAnnscwi. This is more grateful to the
smell than the taste ; in taste it resembles the conserve of roses, and in smell the fresh scent
of those flowers.

22. The pomcgrauate. This is the same fruit that is known by the same name all over
Europe.

23. Durion. A fruit that in shape resembles a small melon, but the skin is covered
with sharp conical spines, whence its name ; for dure, in the IMalay language, signifies
prickle. When it is ripe it divides longitudinally into seven or eight compartments, each of
wiiicii contains six or seven nuts, not quite so large as chestnuts, which are covered with a
substiinee tiiat in colour and consistence very much resembles thick cream : this is the part
tliat is eaten, and the natives are fond of it to excess. To Europeans it is generallj' dis-
agreeable at first ; for in taste it somewhat resembles a mixture of cream, sugar, and onions ;
and in tlie smell the onions predominate.

24. Nanca. Tin's fruit, which in some parts of India is called .Takes, has, like the Durion,
a smell very disagreeable to strangers, and somewhat resembling that of mellow apples
mixed with garlic : the flavour is not more adapted to the general taste. lu some countriea

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COOK'S FIRST VOYAGIi ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1770.

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that are favourable to it, it is said to grow to an immense size. Rumpliius relates, that it
is sometimes so large that a man cannot easily lift it; and we were told by a Mal.iy that at
Madura it is sometimes so large as not to be carried but by the unite<l eftorts of two men.
At Batavia, however, they never exceed the size of a large melon, which in shape they very
much resemble : tliey are covered with angular prickles, like the shootings of some crystals,
which however are not hard enough to wound those who handle them.

25. Cliampada. This differs from the Nanca in little except size, it not being so big.

2(5. Rambutan. This is a fruit little known to Europeans , in appearance it very much
resembles a chestnut with the husk on, and like that, is covered with small points, which
arc soft, and of a deep red colour : under this skin is the fruit, and within the fruit a stone ;
the eatable part thereof is small in quantity, but its acid perhaps is more agreeable than any
other in the whole veaetable kingdom.

27. Jambolan. Tiiis in size and appearance is not imlike a damson, but in taste is
still more astringent, and therefore less agreeable.

28. Tlie Boa Bidarra ; or lihamnus Jujulxi of Linnajus. This is a round yellow fruit,
about the size of a gooseberry ; its tiavour is like that of an apple, but it has tlie astringency
of a crab.

29 Nam nam. Tlie Ci/nometra Cauliflora of Linnajus. This fruit in shape somewhat
resembles a kidney ; it is about three inches long, and the outside is very rough : it is
seldom eaten raw, but fried with batter it makes a good fritter.

30, 31. The Catajipa, or TerminaUa Catappa; and the Canare, the Canarium commune
of Linnasus ; are both nuts, with kernels somewhat resembling an almond ; but the diffi-
culty of breaking tlie shell is so great, that tliey are nowhere publicly sold. Tliose which
we tasted were gathered for curiosity by JNIr. Banks, from the tree upon which they grew.

32. The Madja, or Limoni of Linnaeus, contains, under a hard brittle shell, a lightly acid
pulp, which cannot be eaten without sugar ; and with it, is not generally thought pleasant.

33. Suntul. The Trir/iilia of Linnicus. This is the worst of all the fruits that I shall
particularly mention : in size and shape it resembles the Madja ; and within a thick skin
contains kernels like those of the Mangostan, the taste of which is both acid and astringent,
and so disagreeable, that we were surprised to see it exposed upon the fruit-stalls.

34, 3;j, 3(5. The Biinibing, or Arerrhoa Belimhi ; the Blimbing Besse, or Aeerrhua Carani-
bola ; and the Cherrcma, or Acerrhoa acida of Linnieus, are three species of one genus : and
though they differ in shape, are nearly of the same taste. Tiie Blimbing Besse is the
sweetest : the other two are so austerely acid, that they cannot be used without dressing ;
they make, however, excellent pickles and sour sauce.

37- The Salak, or Cdlainus liotaiu/ Zalacca of Linna?us. This is the fruit of a prickly
bush ; it is about as big as a walnut, and covered with scales, like those of a lizard : below
the scales are two or three yellow kernels, in flavour somewhat resembling a strawberry.

Besides these, the island of Java, and particularly the country round Batavia, produces
many kinds of iVuit w hich were not in season during our stay ; we were also told that
apples, strawberries, and many other fruits from Europe, had been planted up in the
mountains, and flourished there in great luxuriance. We saw several fruits preserved in
sugar, that we did not see recent from the tree, one of which is called Kimklt, and another
Jioa Atap ; and here are several others which are eateu only by the natives, particularly the
Kellor, the Giiiliiulhia, the Moritufa, and the Socciim. The Soccum is of the same kind
with the bread-fruit in the South Sea Islands, but so much inferior, that if it had not been
for the similitude in the outward appearance both of the fruit and the tree, we should not
have referred it to that class. These and some others do not merit to be particularly
mentioned.

The quantity of fruit that is consumed at Batavia is incredible ; but that which is publicly
exjiosed to sale is generally over-ripe. A stranger, however, may get good fruit in a street
called Passar Pissang, whieli lies north from the great churcli, and very near it. This street
is inhabited by none but Chinese fruit-sellers, who are supplied from the gardens of gentle-
men in the neighbourhood of the town, with such as is fresh, and excellent in its kind ; for
which honever they must be paid more than four times the market price.

I :'

I i

>Ec. 1770.

s, that it
y til at at
wo men.
they very
■ crystals,

JO hig.
cry much
its, which
1 a stone ;
than any

1 taste is

low fruit,
itringency

somewhat
igh : it is

commune
t the diffi-
osc which
liey grew,
ghtly acid

pleasant.
I)at I shall
thick skin
istringent,

M Caram-
iius : and
ssc is the
dressing ;

prickly
; helow
wherry,
produces
told that
ip in the
cserved in
d another
uhvrly the
iame kind
not been
hould not
irticularly

s publicly
in a street
This street
of gentle-
kind ; for

COOK S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

807

Dec 1770.

The town in general is supplied from a considerable distance, where great quantities of land
arc cultivated merely for the production of fruit. Tlic country jjeople, to whom these lands
belong, meet the peo|)le of tlie town at two great markets ; one on ]\Ionday, called Passar
Sineen ; and tlie otlier on Satm-day, called Pas.sar Tanabank. These fairs are held at places
considerably distant from each otlier, for tlie convenience of different districts ; neitlier of
them however are more than five miles distant from llatavia. At these fairs, the best fruit
may be bought at the clieapcst rate ; anil the siglit of them to a European is very enter-
taining. The quantity of fruit is astonishing ; lorty or fifty cart-loads of the finest pine-
apples, ])acke(l as carelessly as turnips in Euiilaiul, are cimnuon, and other fruit in the same
profuejon. The days, however, on which these markets are held are ill contrived ; the time
between Saturday and jMoiulay is too short, and tliat between Monday and Saturday too
long : great part of wliat is bought on Jlonday is always nuieli the worse for keeping before
a new stock can be bought, either by the retailer or consumer ; so that for several davs in
every week there is no good fruit in the hands of any people but the Cinnese in Passar
Pissang.

The inhabitants of this part of India practise a luxury which seems to be but little
attended to in other countries ; they are continually burning arom.atic woods and resins,
and scatter odours roimd them in a profusion of flowers, possibly as an antidote to the
noisome effluvia of their ditches and canals. Of sweet-smelling flowers they have a great
variety, altogetlier unknown in Europe, tlie chief of wliich I sliall briefly describe.

1. The C/iampacka, or Michelia Chamjmcai. Tiiis grows ujion a tree as large as an
apple-tree, and ccuisists of fifteen long narrow petala, whicii give it the appearance of being
double, thougli in reality it is not so : its colour is yellow, and much deeper than that of a
jonquil, to which it has some resemblance in smelK

2. The Canavifa, or Umria Cananga, is a green flower, not at all resembling the blossom
of any tree or plant in Eurojie : it has indeed more the apjiearance of a bunch of leaves than
a flower ; its set nt is a<>reeablo, but altogether peculiar to itself.

.3. The Mnlulti, or Ni/ctauthcs Snmhac, This is well-known in English hot-houses by
the name of Arabian jessamine : it grows here in the greatest profusion, and its fragrance,
like that of all •■ Indian flowers, though exquisitely ])leasing, has not that overpowering

strength which disunguishes some of the same sorts in Europe.

4, 5. The Comhauij Caracnassi, and Comhang Tonqnin, Vercularia Glahro. These are
small flowers, of the dog's-bane kind, very much resembling each other in shape and smell,
highly fragrant, hut veryditterent from every product of an English garden.

(5, The Bovga Taitjong, or Miniusops Klengi of Linnaeus. This flower is shaped like a
star of seven or eight rays, and is about half an inch in diameter ; it is of a yellowish colour,
and has an aoreeable smell.

Besides these, there is the Sandal Malam, or PoUanthes Tiiherosa. This flower, being the
same with our own tuberose, can have no place among those that are unknown in Europe,
but I mention it for its Malay name, which signifies " Intriguer of the Night," and is not
inelegantly conceived. The heat of this climate is so great, that few flowers exhale their
sweets in the day ; and this in particular, from its total want of scent at that time, and the
modesty of its colour, which is white, seems negligent of attracting admirers, but as soon as
night conies on, it ditt'uses its fragrance, and at once compels the attention, and excites the
complacency of all who approach it.

These are all sold about the streets every evening at sunset, either strung upon a thread,
in wreaths of about two feet long, or made up into nosegays of different forms, either of
which may be purchased for about a halfpenny. Besides these, there are, in private gardens,
many other sweet flowers, which are not produced in a sufficient quantity to be brought to
market. With a mixture of these flowers, and the leaves of a ))lant called pandang, cut into
small pieces, persons of both sexes fill their hair and their clothes, and with the same mix-
ture indulge a much higher luxury by strewing it on their beds, so that the chamber in which
they slee)) breathes the richest and juirest of all o<lotirs, nnallayed by the fumes which cannot
hut arise where the sleeper lies under two or three blankets and a quilt, for the bed-covering
here is nothing more than a single piece of fine chintz.

I ' 1

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308

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dkc. 1770.

■

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1 >

Before I close my account of tlic vcfTftablo productions of this part of India, I must take
some notice of tlie s]>ices. Java originally ])roduced none hut ])e|)])er : this is now sent from
hence into Europe to a great value, hut the quantity consumed here is very small. The
inhabitants use Otjisicnin, or, as it is called in Kurope, Cayenne-pepper, almost universally
in its stead. Cloves and nutmegs, having been monopolised by the Dutch, are become too
dear to ho plentifully used by the other inhabitants of tliis country, who are very fond of
them. Cloves, although they are said originally to have been the ]>roduce of Maehian, or
Dachian, a small island far to the eastward, and only fifteen miles to the northward of the
line, and to have been from thence disseminated by the Dutch, at their first coming into
these parts, over all the eastern islands, are now confined to Amboyna, and the small isles
that lie in its neighbourhood ; the Dutch having, by different treaties of peace between them
and the conquered kings of all the other islands, stipulated that they should have only a
certain number of trees in their dominions ; and in future quarrels, as a punishment for dis-
obedience and rebellion, lessened the quantity, till at last they left them no claim to any.
Nutmegs have, in a manner, been extirpated in all the islands except their first natire soil,
Banda, which easily supplies every nation upon earth ; and would as easily sup|)ly every
nation in another ghtbo of the same dimensions, if there was any such to which the in<lns-
trious Hollander could transport the commodity ; it is, however, certain, that there arc a
few trees of this spice upon the coast of New Guinea. There may perhaps be both cloves
and nutmegs upon other islands to the eastward ; for those, neither the Dutch, nor any
other European, seem to think it worth while to examine.

The principal tame quadru])eds of this country are horses, cattle, bnflFaloes, sheep, goats,
and hogs. The liorses are small, never exceeding in size what wo call a stout galloway ;
but they are nimble and spirited, and are reported to have been found here when the Euro-
peans first came round the Cape of Good Hope. The horned cattle are said to be the same
species as those in Europe ; but they differ so much in appearance, that we were inclined
to doubt it : they have indeed tiie jxilearla or dewlap, which naturalists make the distin-
guishing characteristic of the European species ; but they certainly are found wild, not only
in Java, but several of the eastern islands. The flesh of those that we ate at Batavia had a
finer grain than European beef, but it was less jtiicy, and miserably lean. Buffaloes arc
plenty, but the Dutch never eat them, nor will they drink their milk, being prepossessi'd with
a notion that both are unwholesome, and tend to ]>roduce fevers ; though the natives and
Chinese eat both, without any injury to their health. The sheep are of the kind which
have long ears that hang down, and hair instead of woe' the flesh of these is hard and
tough, and in every respect the worst mutton we ever saw. \\'e found here, however, a few
Cape sheep, which ai'o excellent, but so dear that we gave five-and-forty shillings a-piece for
four of them, the heaviest of which weighed only five-and-forty pounds. The goats are not
better than the sheep; but the hogs, especially the Ciiineso breed, are incomparable, and so
fat, that the purchaser agrees for the lean separately. The butcher, who is always a Chinese,
without the least scruple, cuts off as much of the fat as he is desired, and afterwards sells it
to his countryii.en, who melt it down, and eat it instead of butter with their rice : but not-
withstanding the excellence of this pork, the Dutch are so strongly prejudiced in favour of
everything that comes from their native country, that they eat oidy of the Dutch breed,
which are here sold as much dearer than the Chinese as the Chinese are sold dearer than
the Dutch in Europe.

Besides these animals, which are tame, they have dogs and cats ; and there arc among
the distant mountains some wild horses and cattle. Buffaloes are not found wild in any part
of Java, tliough they abound in IMacassar, and several other eastern islands. The neigh-
bourhood of Batavia, however, is j)lentifully supjilied with two kinds of deer ; and wild
hogs, which are sold at a reasonable price by th) Portuguese, who shoot them, and are very
good food.

Among the mountains, and in the desert parts of the island, there are tigers, it is said, in
great abundance, and some rhinoceroses. In these parts, also, there are monkeys ; and there
are a few of them even in the neighbourhood of Batavia.

Of fish, here is an amazing plenty ; many sorts are excellent, and all are very cheap.

Dec. 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLD.

except tlio few tliat are scarce. It liappeiis lierc, as in other places, tliat vanity gets the
better even of ai)])etite: tlie clieap fisli, most of wliicli i> of tlie best kind, is tlic food only of
sliives, and tliat wliich is dear, only becansc it is scar -e, and very much inferior in every
respect, is placed ni)on the tables of the rich. A sensible housekeeper once spoke to ns freely
upon the subject. " I know," said he, " as well as you, ti'at I could purchase a better dish
of fish for a shillinj; tlian what now costs me ten ; but if I si ould make so good a use of my
money, I should here be as much despised as you would be .n Europe if you were to cover
your table with ottals, fit only for beggars or dogs."

Turtle is also found here, but it is neither so sweet nor so t it as the West Indian turtle,
even in London ; such as it is, however, we should consider it as a dainty : but the Dutch,
among other singularities, do not cat it. We saw some lizards, or Iifiiauas, liere, of a very
large size , we were told that some were as thick as a nian"'s thigh ; and Mr. Banks shot one
that was five feet long: the flesh of this animal proved to be very good food.

Poultry is very good here, and in great plenty : fowls, of a very largo size, ducks, and
geese, are very cheap ; pigeons are dear, and the price of turkeys extravagant. Wo some-
times found tlie flesh of these animals lean and dry; but this was merely the efl^ect of their
being ill fed, for those that we fed ourselves were as good as any of the same kind that wo
had tasted in Europe, and we sometimes thought them even better.

AVild-fowl in general is scarce. We once saw a wild-duck in the fields, but never any
that were to be sold. We fiv(iuently saw snipes of two kinds, one of them exactly the same
as that in Europe ; and a kind of thrush was always to be had in great plenty of the Portu-
gtieso, who, for I know not what reason, seem to have monopolised the wild-fowl and game.
Of snipes, it is remarkable, that they are found in n^u'c parts of the world than any other
bird, being common almost all over Europe, Asia, Africa, and America.

With respect to drink, nature lias not been quite so liberal to the inhabitants of Java, as
to some whom she has ))laced in the less fruitful regions of the north. The native Java-
nese, and most of the other Indians who inhabit this island, are indeed ^Mahometans, and
therefore have no reason to regret the want of wine : but, as if the prohibition of their
law resi)ected only the manner of becoming drunk, and not drunkenness itself, they chew
opium, to the total subversion, not only of their understanding, but their he.altl

The arrack tliat is made here is too well known to need a description : besides which, tho
ptilm yields a wine of the same kind with that which has already been described in the ac-
count of the island of Savu ; it is jirocured from the same tree, in the same manner, and is sold
in three states. The first, in which it is called Th((c manisc, differs little fiom that in which
it comes from the tree ; yet even this has received some preparation altogether unknown to
us, in consequence of which it will keep eight-and-forty hours, though otherwise it would
spoil in twelve : in this state it has an agreeable sweetness, and will not intoxicate. In the
other two states it has undergone a fermentation, and received an infusion of certain herbs
and roots, by which it loses its sweetness, and acquires a taste very austere and disagree-
able. In one of these states it is called Tuac eras, and in the other Tuac ainlin/, but tho
specific dift'erence I do not know ; in both, however, it intoxicates very powerfully. A
liquor called Tuac is also made from tho cocoa-nut tree, but this is used chiefly to put into
the arrack, for in that which is good it is an essential ingredient.

CHAPTER XII, — SOME ACCOUNT OF THE INnAniTANTS OP BATAVIA, AND THE ADJACENT
COUNTRY, TIIEIU MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND MANNER OF LIFE.

The town of Datavia, although, as I have already observed, it is the capital of the Dutch
dominions in India, is so far from being peopled with Dutchmen, that not one-fifth part,
even of the European inhabitants of the town, and its environs, are natives of Holland, or
of Dutch extraction : the greater ]>art are Portuguese, and besides Europeans, there are
Indians of various nations, and Chinese, besides a great number of negro slaves. In the
troops, there are natives of almost every country in Europe, but the Germans are more than
all the rest put together ; there are some English and French, but the Dutch, though other

SIO

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Drr. 1770.

i;iy

.!■ I

Europeans arc pcrnnttod to get money licre, keep all tlic power in their own liand», and
consequently posset's all public employments. No man, of whatever nation, enn come hither
to settle, in any otlier character tlian that of a soldier in the C'ftnipany's service, in which,
before tliey arc accepted, tliey must covenant to remain five years. As soon however as
this form has been complied with, they are allowed, upon application to the council, to
absent themselves from their corps, and enter immediately into any branch of trade, which
their money or credit will enable them to carry on ; and by this means it is tliat all the
white inhabitants of the place are soldiers.

Women, however, of all nations, arc permitted to settle here, without coming under any
restrictions ; yet we were told that there were not, when we were at Batavia, twenty women
in the place that were born in Euro|)e, but that tlie white women, who were by no means
scarce, were descendants from European parents of the third or fourth generation, the glean-
ings of many families who had successively come hither, and, in the male line, become
extinct ; for it is certain that, whatever be the cause, this climate is not so fatal to the ladies
as to the other sex.

Tlicse women imitate the Indians in every particular ; their dress is made of the same
materials, their hair is worn in the same manner, and they are equally enslaved by the habit
of chewing betel.

The merchants carry on their business here with less trouble perhaps than in any other
part of the world : every manufacture is managed by the Chinese, who sell the produce of
their labour to the merchant resident here, for they are permitted to sell it to no one else ;
80 that when a ship comes in, and bespeaks perhaps, a hundred leagers of arrack, or any
quantity of other commodities, tlie merchant has nothing to do but to send orders to his
Chinese to see them delivered on board : he obeys the command, brings a receipt signed by
the master of the ship for the goods to his employer, who receives the money, and, having
deducted his profit, pays tl-o Chinese his demand. With goods that are imported, however,
the merchant has a little more trouble, for these he must examine, receive, and lay up in his
warehouse, according to the practice of other countries.

The Portuguese are called by the natives Oranserane, orX.izareen men (Gran, being man
in the language of the country), to distinguisii them from other Europeans ; yet they are
included in the general appellation of Caper, or Cajir, an opprobrious term, applied by
INIahometans to all who do not profess their faith. These peopU', however, are Portuguese
only in name ; they have renounced the religion of Rome, and become Lutherans : neither
have they the least communication with the country of their forefathers, or even knowledge
of it : they speak indeed a corrupt dialect of the Portuguese language, but much more
frequently use the Malay : they arc never suffered to emijloy themselves in any but mean
occupations ; many of them live by hunting, many by washing linen, and some are handi-
craftsmen and artificers. Tiiey have ad()j)ted all the customs of the Indians, from whom
they are distinguished chiefly by their features and complexion, their skin being considerably
darker, and their noses more sharp ; their dress is exactly the same, except in the manner
of wearing their hair.

The Indians, wlio arc mixed with the Dutch and Portuguese in the town of Batavia,
and the country adjacent, are not, as might be supposed, Javanese, the original natives of
the island, but natives of the various islands from which the Dutch import slaves, and are
either such as have themselves been mamuniscd, or the descendants of those who formerly
received manumission ; and they are all comprehended under the general name of Oranslam
or Isalam, signifying Believers of the true Faith. The natives of every country, however
in other respects, keep themselves distinct from the rest, and are not less strongly marked
than the slaves by the vices or virtues of their respective nations. 3Iany of these employ
themselves in the cultivation of gardens, and in selling fruit and flowers. The betel and
areca, which are here called Siri and Pinang, and chewed by both sexes and every rank in
amazing quantities, are all grown by these Indians : lime is also mixed with these roots here
as it is in Savu, but it is less pernicious to the teeth, because it is first slaked, and, besides
the lime, a substance called gamlU\ which is brought from the continent of India ; the
better sort of women also add cardanium, and many other aromatics, to give the breath an

)wevor.

lia ;

Di;c. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

311

agreeable smell. Some of tlio Indians, however, are employed in fishing, and as lightermen,
to carry goods from i)hice to jilaco by water; atid some are rich, and live with much of the
sjdendour of their country, which cliiefly consists in the number of tiicir slaves.

In the article of food these Isahuns are remarkably temperate : it consists chiefly of boiled
rice, with a small proportion of buffalo, fish, or fowl, and sometimes of dried fish, and dried
shrimps, which are brought hither from China ; every dish, however, is highly seasoned with
Cayenne pepper, and they have many kinds of pastry made of rice-flour, and other things to
■which I am a stranger ; they eat also a great deal of fruit, particularly plantains.

But notwithstanding their general temperance, their feasts are plentiful, and, according to
their manner, magnificent. As they are ]Mahometans, wine and strong liquors professedly
make no part of their entertainment, neither do they often indulge with them privately,
contenting themselves with their betel and opium.

The princi|)al solemnity among them is a wedding, upon which occasion both the families
borrow as many ornaments of gold and silver as they can, to adorn the bride and bride-
groom, so that their dresses are very showy and magnificent. The feasts that arc given
upon these occasions among the rich, last sometimes a fortnight, and sometimes longer ;
and during this time, the man, although married on the first day, is, by the women, kept
from his wife.

The language that is spoken among all these people, from what place soever they origi-
nally came, is the Malay ; at least it is a language so called, and probrrbly it is a very
corrupt dialect of that spoken at Malacca. Every little island indeed has a language of its
own, and Java has two or three, but this lingua franca is the only language that is now
spoken here, and, as I am told, it prevails over a great part of the East Indies. A dic-
tionary of Malay and English was published in London by Thomas Bowrey, in the year
1701.

Their women wear as much hair as can grow upon the head, and to increase the quantity,
they use oils, and other preparations of various kinds. Of this ornament nature has been
very liberal ; it is imiversally black, and is formed into a kind of circular wreath upon the
top of the head, where it is fastened with a bodkin, in a taste which we thought inexpressi-
bly elegant ; the wreath of hair is surrounded by another of flowers, in which the Arabian
jessamine is beautifully intermixed with the golden stars of the Bonger Tanjovt/.

Both sexes constantly bathe themselves in the river at least once a day, a practice which,
in this hot country, is equally necessary both to personal delicacy and health. The teeth of
these people also, whatever they may sufl\3r in their colour by chewing betel, are an object
of great attention : the ends of them, both in the upper and under jaw, are rubbed with a
kind of whetstone, by a very troublesome and painful operation, till they arc perfectly even
and flat, so that they cannot lose less than half a line in their length. A deep groove is then
made across the teeth of the upper jaw, parallel with the gums, and in the middle between
them and the extremity of the teeth ; the depth of this groove is at least equal to one-fourth
of the thickness of the teeth, so that it penetrates far boyond what is called the enamel, the
least injury to which, according to the dentists of Europe, is fatal ; yet among these people
where the practice of thus wounding the enamel is universal, we never saw a rotten tooth ;
nor is the blackness a stain, but a covering, which may be washed off" at pleasure, and the
teeth then appear as white as ivory, which however is not an excellence in the estimation of
the belles and beaux of these nations.

These are the people among whom the practice tluat is called a mock, or running a muck,
has prevailed for time immemorial. It is well known, that to run a muck, in the original
sense of the word, is to get intoxicated with opium, and then rush into the street with a
drawn weapon, and kill whoever comes in the way, till the party is himself either killed or
taken prisoner ; of this several instances happened while we were at Batavia, and one of the
officers, whose business it is, among other things, to apprehend such people, told us, that
there was scarcely a week in which he, or some of his brethren, were not called upon to take
one of them into custody. In one of the instances that came to our knowledge, the party
had been severely injured by the perfidy of women, and was mad with jealousy before he
made himself drunk with opium ; and we were told, that the Indian who runs a muck ia

1(1

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■?

t ,

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i|i

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(OOKS FIRST VOVAOE ROIND THE WORF.D.

Dec. 1770.

. i

always first driven to dfsiicration by some ontrapo, and always first rovongos Iiinisclf upon
tlioso will) liavo dono liiiii wroiijj ; >ve wire alwi told, lliat though tlicso unliappy wn tclii's
afterwards run into tliewtrtft witli a weapon in tliiir liand, frantic and foamin*; at tliouioutli,
yet tliey never kill any but tiiose who attempt to ap]>reliend tlieni, or those wlioni tliey
8us])ect of such an intention, and tliat wlioever gives tiieni way is safe. Tiiey are generally
slaves, who indeed are niosit snhjeet to insults, and least able to obtain legal redress : free-
men, however, arc sometimes ])rovoke<l into this extravagance, and one of the persons who
ran a nuiek while wc were at llatavia, was free and in easy circumstances, llo was jealous
of his own brother, whom he first killed, and afterwards two others, who attem|ited to
oppose him : he did not, however, come out of his house, but endeavoured to defend himself in
it, though the opium had so far deprived him of his <;enses, that of three muskets, which ho
attempted to use against the ottieers of justice, not one was either loaded or primed. If the
officer takes one of these amocks, or mohawks, as they have been called by an easy corrup-
tion, alive, .lis rewar i is very considerable, but if he kills them, nothing is adde<l to his usual
pay ; yet such is the uiry of their desperation, that three out of four are of necessity destroyed
in the attem])t to secure them, though the officers are provided with instruments like large
tongs, or pincers, to lay hold of them without coming within the reach of their weapon.
Those who hap]ien to be taken alive are generally wounded, but they arc always broken
alive upon the wheel; and if the jdiysician who is appointed to examine their wounds, thinks
them likely to be mortal, tiic punishuu-nt is inflicted in)inediately, and the place of execution
is generally the spot where the fii>t munler was connnitted.

Among thesa peojjle, there are many absurd practices and opinions which they derive
from tlicir pagan ancestors : they believe that the devil, whom they call Satan, is the cause
of all sickness and adversity, and for this reason, when they arc sick, or in distress, they
consecrate meat, money, and other things to him, as a pro]utiatiun. If any one among them
is restless, and dreams for two or three nights succi-ssively, he concludes that Satan has taken
that method of laying his commands upon him, which, if he neglects to fulfil, he will cer-
tainly suffiir sickness or death, though they are not revealed with sufficient perspicuity to
ascertain their meaning : to interpret his dream, therefore, he taxes his wits to the utter-
most, and if, by taking it literally or figuratively, directly or by contraries, he can put no
explanation upon it that perfectly satisfies him, he has recourse to the cawin or priest, who
assists him with a comment and illustrations, and jwrfeetly reveals the mysterious suggestions
of the night. It generally appears that the devil wants victuals or money, which are always
allotted him, and being placed on a little plate of cocoa-nut leaves, are hung upon the branch
of a tree near the river, so that it seems not to be the o])inion of these people, that, in prowl-
ing the earth, " the devil walketh through dry ]>laces." IMr. Danks once asked, wiiether
they thought Satan spent the money, or ate the victuals ; he was answered, that as to the
money it was considered rather as a mulct upon an offender, than a gift to him who had
enjoined it, and that therefore, if it was devoted by the dreamer, it mattered not into whose
hands it came, and they supposed that it was generally the prize of some stranger who
wandered that way ; but as to the meat, they were clearly of opinion, that although the
devil did not eat the gross parts, yet by bringing his mouth near it, he sucked out all its
savour without changing its position, so that afterwards it was as tasteless as water.

But they have another superstitious opinion that is still more unaccountable. They believe
that women, wlicn they are delivered of children, are frequently at the same time delivered
of a young crocodile, as a twin to the infant : they believe that these creatures are received
most carefully by the midwife, and immediately carried down to the river, and put into the
water. The family in which such a birth is supposed to have happened, constantly put
victuals into the river for their amphibious relation, and especially the twin, who, as long
as he lives, goes down to the river at stated seasons, to fulfil this fraternal duty, for the
neglect of which, it is the universal opinion that he will be visited with sickness or death.
What could at first produce a notion so extravagant .and absurd, it is not easy to guess, espe-
cially as it seems to be totally unconnecte,! with any religious mystery, and how a fact which
never happened, should be pretended to happen every day, by those who cannot be deceived
into a belief of it by appearances, nor have any apparent interest in the fraud, is a problem

I)i;c. 1770.

COOKS FIRST VOYACJK ROUND THE WORLf).

ni3

all its

for tlio
death.

Htill more difficult to solve. Notliinn; however can he more certain than the firm helief of
this i«tranj;e uhHurdity ainonrr tlieni, for \vu had tlio concurrent testimony of every Indian who
was (|iUHli;;:vd ahout it, in its favtuir. It Heems to have taken its rise in the islands of
C'elehea and IJoutoa, when; ini\ny of the inliahitants keeji crocodiles in their families ; hut
however that he, the ()|iiuiou has sjncad over all the eastern islands, even to Timor and
Ccram, and westwar>l as far as .Java and .Sumatra, whcve, however, youiij; crocodiles are, I
helieve, never kept.

These crocodile twin^ are calKd Sin/dras, and I shall relate one of the innunierahlc stoiica
that were told us, in ))roof of the'r existence, from ocular denujustration.

A youuj,' female slave, who was horn and hred up amou<^ the Kuclish at Rcneoolen,
and had learnt a little of the langunge. told Mr. Hanks that her father, when he was dyin;:,
acquainted her that ho had a crocodile lor his Siihira, and solemidy charrT'd her to fjive him
meat when ho should bo dead, telling her in what part of the river lie was to he found, and
by what name ho was to bo called up. That, in pursuance of her fathti's instructions and
C(m)niand, siio went to the river, and, standing upcm tho bank, called out liivija I'viill,
White King, upon which a crocodile came to her out of the water, and ate from her hand tho
provisions that she had brought him. When she was desired to describe this ])aternal uncle,
who in so strange a shape had taken up his dwelling in the water, she said, that he was not
like other crocodil-s, but much handsomer ; that his body was spotted and his nose red ; that
ho liad bracelets of gold upon his feet, and ear-rings of the same nutal in his ears. Mr.
Ranks heard this tale of riiliculous falsehood patiently to the end, and then dismissed the
girl, without reminding her, that a crocodile with ears was as strange a monster as a dog with
a cloven foot. Some time after this, a servant whom Mr. Itanks had hired at l$atavia, anl
who was tho son of a Dutchman by a Javanese woman, thought tit to acquaint his master
that he had seen a crocodile of the same kind, which had also been seen by many others,
both Dutcl'.men and Malays : that being very young, it was but two feet long, and had
briicelets of gold upon its feet. There is no giving credit to these stories, said Mr. Banks,
for I was t(dd the other day that a crocodile had car-rings ; and you know that could not
be true, because crocodiles have no cars. Ah, sir, said the man, these Sudara Gran are not
like other crocodiles ; they have five toes upon each foot, a large tongue that fills their mouth,
and cars also, although they are indeed very sniivll.

How much of what these people related they believed, cannot be known : for there are no
bounds to tl-o credulity of ignorance and folly. In the girfs relation, however, there are
some thing;. /. which she could not be deceived ; and therefore must have been guilty of wilful
falsehood. Her father might perhaps give her a charge to feed a crocodile, in consequence of
Iiis believing that it was his Sudara; but its coming to her out of tho river, when she called
it by the name of White King, and taking the food she had brought it, must have been a
fable of her own invention ; for this being false, it was impossible that she should believe it
to be true. The girl's story, however, as well as that of the man, is a strong proof that they
both firmly believe the existence of crocodiles that .arc Sudaras to men ; and the girl's fiction
will be easily accounted for, if wo recollect, that the earnest desire which every one feels to
make others believe what he believes himself, is a strong tcmptatioi: to support it by unjusti-
fi.able evidence. And the averring what is known to be false, in order to produce in others
the belief of what is thought to be true, must, upon the most charitable principles, be imjiuted
to many, otherwise venerable characters, through whose hands the doctrines of Christianity
passed for many ages in their way to iis, as the source of all the silly fables related of the
Bomish saints, many of them not less extravagant and absurd than this story of the White
King, and all of them the invention of the first relator.

The Bongis, Macassars, and Boetons, .ire so firmly persuaded that they have relations of
the crocodile species in the rivers of their own country, th.at they perform a periodical le-
mony in remembrance of them. Large parties of them go out in a botat, furnished with
great plenty of provisions, and all kinds of music, and row backswards and forwards, in places
where crocodiles and alligators are most common, singing and weeping by turns, each invok-
ing his kindred, till a crocodile appears, when the mv-'^". instantly stops, and provisions, betel,
and tobacco, are thrown into the water. By this civility to the species, they hope to recom-

! : '. '

SI 4

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE llOUXD THE WORLD.

Dec. 1770.

CHINESE SHOPS, MntCIIANTS, &C., AT BaTAVIA.

mend themselves to their relations at ho"ie ; and that it will bf^ accepted instead of offerings
immediately to themselves, wiiich it is not in their power to pay.

In the next rank to the Indians stand the Chinese, who in this place are numerous, but
possess very little property ; many of them live within the walls, and keep shops. The
fruit-sellers of Passar Pis-
sane have been mentioned . • -
already ; but others luwe
A rich show of European
and Chinese goods : the
far greater part, however,
live in a quarter by them-
selves, without the walls,
called Campang China.
jNIany of them are carpen-
ters, joiners, smiths, tai-
lors, slippei'-niakers, dyers
of cotton, and embroiderers;
maintaining the tliaracter
of industry th.it is univer-
sally given of them : and
some arc scattered about
the countiy, where they
cultivate gardens, sow rice
and sugar, and keep c.ittle and buffixloes, whose milk they bring daily to town.

There is nothing clean or dirty, honest or dishonest, provided there is not too muchdanorer
of J. halter, that the Chinese will not readily do for money. But though they work with
great diligence, and patiently undergo any degree of labour ; yet no sooner have they laid
down their tools than they begin to game, either at cards or dice, or some other play amomr
the multitude that they have invented, which are altogether unknown in Eiirope : to tin"'?
they apply with such eagerness, as scarcely to allow time for the necessary refreshments of
food and sleep ; so that it ib as rare to see a Chinese idle, as it is to see a Dutchman or an
Indian employed.

In manners they are always civil, or rather obsequious ; and in dress they are rem.irkably
neat and clean, to whatever rank of life they belong. I shall not attempt a description either
of their persons or habits, for the better kind of China paper, which is now common in
England, exhibits a perfect representation of both, though perhaps Avitli some slight
exaggerations approaching towards the caricatura.

In eating they are easily satisfied, though the few that are rich have many savoury dishes
Rice, with a small pro|)ortiou of flesh or fish, is the food of the poor ; and they have greatly
the advantage of the oMahometan Indians, whose religion forbids them to eat of many things
which they could most easily procure. The Chinese, on the contrary, being under no restraint,
eat, besides pork, dogs, cats, frogs, lizards, serpents of many kinds, and a great variety of sea
animals, which the other inhabitants of this country do not consider as food : they eat also
many vegetables, which a European, except he was perishing with hunger, would never touch.
The Chinese have a singular superstition with regard to the biu'ial of their dead j for they
will upon no occasion OMcn the ground a second time, where a body has been interred. Their
burying-grouuds, therefore, in the neighbourhood of Batavia, cove- many hundred acres, and
the Dutch, grudgl.ig the waste of so much land, will not sell any for this purpose but at the
most exorbi'.ant price. The Chinese, however, contrive to raise the purchase-money, and
iifford another instance of the folly and weakness of htmian nature, in transfcring a regard
for the living to the dead, and making that the object of solicitude and expense, which cannot
receive the least benefit from either. Under the influence of this imiversal prejudice, they
take an unconunon method to preserve the body entire, and prevent the ivmains of it from
being mixed with the earth that surround* it. They inclose it in a large thick coffin of wood,
not made of planks joined together, but hollowed out of the solid timber like a canoe ; this

Dec. 1770.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

515

being covered, and let down into the grave, is surrounded witli a coat of tlicir mortar, called
Cliinam, about eight or ten inclics tiiick, which in a short time becomes as hard as a stone.
The relations of the deceased attend the funeral ceremony, with a considerable number of
women that are hired to weep : it might reasonably be sup])osed that the hired a])]icarance
of sorrow could no more flatter the living than benefit the dead : yet the appearance of sorrow
is known to be hired among people much more reflective and enlightened than the Chinese. In
Batavia, the law requires that every man should be buri( d according to his rank, which is
in no case dispensed with ; so that, if the deceased has not left sufficient to pay his debts, an
officer takes an inventory of what was in his possession w-hen he died, and out of the pro-
duce buries him in the manner prescribed, leaving only the overplus to his creditors. Thus
in many instances are the living sacrificed to the dead, and money that should discharge a
debt, or feed an orphan, lavished in idle processions, or materials „iiat are deposited in the
earth to rot.

Another numerous class among the inhabitants of this country is the si 'vcs ; for by slaves
the Dutch, Portuguese,* and Indians, however diffi.'rent in thtir rank or situation, are con-
stantly attended : they arc purchased from Sumatra, jMalacca, and almost all the eastern
islands. The natives of Java, very few of whom, as I have before observed, live in the
neighbourhood of Batavia, have an exemption from slavery under the sanction of very
severe penal laws, which I believe are seldom violated. The price of these slaves is from
ten to twenty pounds sterling ; but girls, if they have beauty, sometimes fetch a hundred.
They are a very lazy set of people ; but as they will do but little work, they are content
with a little victuals, subsisting altogether upon boiled rice, and a small quantity of the
cheapest fish. As they are natives of difil-rent countries, th'^y differ from each other
extremely, both in person and disposition. The African negroes, called here Papua, are the
worst, and consequently may be purchased for the least money : they are all thieves, and all
incorrigible. Next to these are the Bougis and 3Iacassars, both from the island of Celebes ;
these are lazy in the highest degree, and though not so much addicted to theft ?.s the
negroes, have a cruel and vindictive spirit, which renders them extremely dangerous ; espe-
cially as, to gratify their resentment, they will make no scrujile of sacrificing life. The best
slaves, and conseqiuntly the dearest, are ])rocured from the island of Bali : the most beauti-
ful women from Nias, a small island on the coast of Sum.itra ; but they are of a tender and
delicate constitution, and soon fall a sacrifice to the unwholesome air of Batavia. Besides
these, there are Malays, and slaves of several other denominations, whose i)articular charac-
teristics I do not remember.

These slaves are wholly in the power of their masters with respect to any punishment
that does not take away life ; but if a slave dies in consequenei of punishment, though his
death should not appear to have been intended, the master is called to a severe account, and
he is generally condemned to suffiL-r capitally. For this reason the master seldom inflicts
puuisliment upon the slave himself, but ajiplies to an officer called a Alarineu, one of whom
is stationed in every district. Tlie duty of the Marincu is to quell riots, and take ofif'enders
into custody ; but more i>articul.arly to apj)rehend nmaway slaves, and ])unisli them for such
crimes as the master, 8Uj)ported by proper evidence, lays to their charge : the ])unishment
however is not inflicted by the Alarineu in ))erson, but by slaves who are bred up to the
business. Men are punished publicly, before the door of tlicir master's house ; but women
within it. The punishment is by stripes, the number being proportioned to the offi.'nce ; and
they are given with rods made of rattans, which are ^plit into slender twigs for the purpose,
and fetch blood at every stroke. A common punishment costs the master a rix-dollar, and a
severe one a ducatoon, about six shillings and eiuhtpence. Tlie master is also obliged to
allow the slave three dubbelcheys, equal to about sevenpence halfpenny a week, as an
encouragement, and to prevent his being under temptations to steal, too strong to he
resisted.

Concerning the government of tiiis place I can say but little. We observed, however, a
remarkable subordination among the people. Every man who is able to keep house has a
certain specific rank acquired by the length of his services to the company : the diffi'rent
ranks wiiich are thus acquired arc distinguished by the ornaments of the coaches and the

r'lif

i-:

!i I

■H'b ]

310

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1770.

I..H

dresses of the coaclimen : some are obliged to ride in plain coaches, some are allowed to paint
them in different manners and degrees, and some to gild them. The coachman also appears
in clotlies that are quite plain, or more or less adorned witli lace. The officer who presides
here has tlic title of governor-general of the Indies, and the Dutch governors of all the other
settlements are subordinate to him, and obliged to repair to Batavia that he mtiy pass their
accounts. If they appear to have been criminal, or even negligent, he punishes them by
delay, and detains them during pleasure, sometimes one year, sometimes two years, and
sometimes three : for they cannot quit the place till he gives them a dismission. Next to
the governor arc the members of the council, called here Edele Heereu, and by the corrup-
tion of the English, Idolcers, These Idoleers take upon them so much state, that whoever
meets them in a carriage is expected to rise up and bow, then to drive on one side of the
road, and there stop till they are past : the same homage is required also to their wives, and
even their cliildren ; and it is commonly ])aid them by the inhabitants. But some of our
captains have thought so slavish a mark of respect beneath the dignity which they derive
from the service of his Britannic Majesty, and have refused to pay it ; yet, if they were in a
hired carriage, nothing could deter the coachman from honouring the Dutch grandee at their
ex])ense, but the most })ereniptory menace of immediate death.

Jui^tice is administered here by a body of lawyers, who have ranJ3 of distinction among
themselves, ('onceriiiiig their proceedings in questions of propert}', I know nothing ; but
their decisions in criminal eases seem to be severe with respect to the natives, and lenient
with res])ect to their own peoi)le, in a criminal degree. A C'hristian always is indulged
with an opportunity of esca]>iug before he is brought to a trial, whatever may have been his
offence ; and if he is brought to a trial and convicted, lie is seldom punished with death ;
while the poor Indians, on the contrary, arc hanged, and broken upon the wheel, and even
impaled alive, without mercy.

The jMalays and Chinese have judicial officers of their own, under tlie denominations of
captains and lieutenants, who determine in civil cases, sidyect to an appeal to the Dutch
court.

The taxes paid by these people to the Company arc very considerable ; and that which is
exacted of them for liberty to wear their hair, is by no means the least. They are paid
monthly, and to save the trouble and charge of collecting them, a flag is hoisted upon the
top of a house in the miJdIe of the town when a payment is due, and the Chinese have
experienced that it is their interest to repair thither with their money without delay.

The money current here consists of ducats, worth a hundred and thirty-two stivers;
ducatoons, eighty stivers; imperial rix-dollars, sixty ; rupees of Batavia, thirty ; schellings,
six; dubbelcheys, two stivers and a half; and doits, one fourth of a stiver. Spanish
dollars, when we were here, were at five shillings and fivepence ; and wo were told, that
they were never lower than five shillings and fourpence, even at tlie company's warehouse.
For English guineas we could never get more than nineteen shillings upon an average ; for
though the Chinese would give twenty shillings for some of the brightest, they would give
no more than seventeen shillings for tliose that were much worn.

It may, perliaps, bo of some advantage to strangers to be told that there are two kinds of
coin here, of the same denomination, milled and unmilled, and tliat the milled is of most
value. A milled ducatoon is worth eighty stivers ; but an unmilled ducatoon is worth no
more than seventj'-two. All accounts are kept in rix-dollars and stivers, which, here at
least, are mere nominal coins, like our pound sterling. The rix-doUar is equal to forty-eight
stivers, about four shillings and sixpence English currency.

i(.'"'l

1 i

CnAPTER XIII THE PASSAGE FROM HATAVIA TO THE CAPF. OF OOOD HOPE; SOME ACCOUNT OP

prince's ISLAM) AND ITS IMIAUITA.NTS, AND A COMPAUATIVE VIEW OP YUEIR LANGUAGE
WITU THE MALAY AND JAVANESE.

On Thursday the 27th of December, at six o'clock in the morning, we weighed again and
stood out to sea. After much delay by contrary winds, we weathered Pulo Pare on the

1771.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE AVORLD.

317

29th, and stood in for the main ; soon after we fetched a small ishxnd under the main, in
the midway between Batavia and Bantam, called Jlaneatcr's Island. Tlie next day, we
weathered first Wapping Island, and then Piiio Bahi. On the ,'51 st, wo stood over to the
Sumatra shore; and, on the morning of New-year's day, 177li we j<tood over for the Java
shore.

We continued our course as the wind permitted us till three o'clock in the afternoon of
the 5th, when we anchored under the south-east side of Prince's Island in eighteen fathom,
in order to recruit our wood ami water, and ])r<icure refreshinents for the sick, many of
whom were now become much worse than they were when wo left Batavia. As soon as
the ship was secured, I went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. iSolandcr, and we
were met upon the beach by some Indians, who carried us immediately to a man, who, they
said, was their king. After we had exchanged a few compliments with his niajestv, we
proceeded to business ; but, in settling the ])rice of turtle, we could not agree : this however
did not discourage us, as we made no dout)t but that we should buy them at our own price
in the morning. As soon as we parted, the Indians dispersed, and we proceeded alono- the
shore in search of a watering-place. In this we were more successful ; we found water very
conveniently situated ; and, if a little care was taken in filling it, we had reason to believe
that it would prove good. Just as we were going off, some Indians, who rem; ined with a
canoe upon the beach, sold us three turtle ; but exacted a promise of us that w t should not
tell the king.

The next morning, while a party was employed in filling water, we renewed o;ir traffic
for turtle : at first, the Indians droppeil their demands slowly, but about noon they agreed
to take the price that we offered, so that before night we had turtle in plenty : the three that
we had purchased the evening before, were in the mean time served to the ship's company,
who, till the day before, had not once been served with salt provisions from the time of our
arrival at Savu, which was now near four months. In the evening. 3f r. Banks went to pay
his respects to the king, at his palace, in the middle of a rice-field, and though his majesty
was busily employed in dressing liis own suj>per, he received the stranger verj' graciously.

Tlie next day, the natives came down to the trading place, with fowls, fish, monkeys,
small deer, and some vegetables, but no turtle ; for they said that we had bought them all
the day before. The next day, however, more turtle apjjcared at market, and some were
brought down every day afterward:? during our stay, though the whole, together, was not
equal to the quantity that we bought the day after our arrival.

On the 11th, Mr. Banks having learnt from the servant whom he had hired at Batavia
that the Indians of this island had a town upon the shore, at some distance to the westward,
he determined to see it ; with this view lie set out in the morning, accompanied by the
second lieutenant, and as he had some reason to think that his visit would not be aoreeable
to the inhabitants, he told the people whom he met, as ho was advancing along the shore,
that lie was in search of plants, which indeed was also true. In about two hours they
arrived at a place where there were four or five houses, and meeting with an old man, they
ventured to nnike some inquiries concerning the town. He said that it was far distant ; but
they were not to be discouraged in their enterprise, and he, seeing them proceed in their
journey, joined company .ind went on with them. lie attempted ."everal times to lead them
out of the way, but without sticcess; and at length they came within sight of the houses.
The old man then entered cordially into their party, and conducted them into the town.
The name of it is Samadang; it consists of about four hundred houses, and is divided by a
river of brackish water into two parts, one of which is called the old town, and the other
the new. As soon as they entered the old town, they met several Indians whom they had
seen at the trading-place, and one of them undertook to carry them over to the new town,
at the rate of twopence ahead. When tlte bargain was made, two very small canoes were
produced, in which they embarked ; the canoes being placed alongside of each other, and
held together, a precaution which was absolutely necessary to prevent their oversetting, the
navigation was at length safely performed, though not without some difiiculty ; and when
they landed in the new town, the people received them with great friendship, and showed
them the houses of their kings and principal people, which are in this district : a few of

II -ij

HMiliMUSi!iH">'i' ' '*wi !. mmm i

818

COOKS FIRST voyagp: round the world.

Jan. 1771.

jM :

111

them however were open, for at this time tlie people liad taken up their residence in the
riee-eroiuuls, to cUfenil the erop a;.'iiinst the birds and monkeys, \>y wliich it would other-
wise have been (U'.-'troyed. When their curiosity was satisfied, they hired a large sailing
boat for two rupees, fonr shillings, which brought them back to tiic ship time enough to
dine upon one of tiie small deer, weighing only forty jiounds, which had been bought the
day before, and proved to be very good and savoury meat.

We went on shore in the evening, to see how the people who were employed in wooding
and watering went on, and were informed that an axe had been stolen. As the passing over
this fault might encourage thecomiuissi«m of otiiers of the same kind, application was imme-
diately made to the king, who, after some altercation, promised that the axe should be
restored in the morning ; and kept his wonl, for it was brought to us by a man who jirc-
tended that the thief, being afraid of a discovery, had jirivately brought it and left it at his
house in the night.

We continued to purchase between two and three hundred weight of turtle in a day,
besides fowls and other necessaries ; and, in the evening of the 13th, having nearly com-
pleted our wood and water, Mr. Banks went ashore to take leave of his majesty, to whom
lie had made several trifling presents, and at parting gave him two quires of paper, which he
graciously received. Tiiey had nnicli conversation, in the course of which iiis majesty
inquired, why the English did not touch there as thiy had been used to do. Mr. Banks
replied, that he supposed it was because they found a deficiency of turtle, of which there
not being enough to supply one ship, many could not be expected. To supply this defect,
he advised his majesty to breed cattle, butlaloes, and sheep, a measure which he did not
seem much inclined to ado[it.

On the 1 4th we made ready to sail, having on board a good stock of refreshments, whiijh
we purchased of the natives, consisting of turtle, fowl, fish, two sjjecies of deer, one as big as
a sheej), the other not larger than a rabbit ; with cocoa-nuts, ])lantains, limes, and other
vegetables. The deer however served only for present use, for we could seldom keep one of
them alive more than four-aiid-twenty hours after it was on board. On our j>art, the trade
was carried on chiefly with Spanish lollars, the natives seeming to set little value upon any-
tliing else ; so that our people, who had a general permission to trade, parted with old shirts
and other articles, which they were ol)lige<l to substitute for money to great disadvantage.
In the morning of the loth, we weighed, with a liglit breeze, at N.IO. and stood out to sea.
Java Head, from which I took my departure, lies in latitude d" 49' S., longitude 253°
12' W.

Princt-'s Island, where we lay about ten days, is, in the JIalay language, called Pulo Sclan ;
and, in the language oi the inhabitants, Pulo Pancifan. It is a small island, situated in
the western montii of the Strait of Sunda. It is woody, and a very small i)art of it only
has been cleared : there is no remarkable hill upon it, yet the English call the small emi-
nence, which is just over tiie landing-jtlace, the Pike. It was formerly much frequented by
the India ships of many nations, but especially those of England, which of late have forsaken
it, as it is said, because the water is bad ; and touch either at North Island, a small island
that lies on the coast of Sumatra, without tlie east entrance of the Strait, or at Mew Bay,
wliich lies only a few leagues from Prince's Island, at neither of wliich j)laces any consider-
able quantity of otlu-r refreshments can be procured. Prince's Island is, upon the whole,
certiiinly more eligible than either of them ; and though the water is brackish, if it is filled at
the lower part of the brook, yet higher up it will be found excellent.

The first and second, and perhaps the third ship that comes in the season, may be tolerably
supplied witli turtle : but those that come afterwards must be content with small ones.
Those that we bought were of the green kind, and at an average cost us about a halfpenny
or three farthi.igs a pound. We were much disap])ointed to find them neither fat nor well-
flavoured ; and we imjuited it to their iiaviiig been long kept in crawls or jicns of brackish
water, without food. The fowls are large, and we bought a dozen of them for a Spanish
dollar, which is above fivepence a ])iece : the small deer cost us twopence a piece, find the
larger, of which two only were brought down, a rupee. ]V[any kinds of fish are to bo had
here, which the natives sell by hand, and we found them tolerably cheap. Cocoa-nuts wo

A \

Jan. 1771<

COOK'S FIRST VOVAC.E ROUND THE WORLD.

910

bouglit at tlie rate of a Ininilreil for a dollar, if they were picked ; and if tliey were taken
promiscuously, one Imndrod and thirty. IMantains we found in great jjlenty ; we procured
also some pinc-ai)])les, water-melons, jaccas*, and pum])kins; besides rice, the greater part of
which was of the mountain-kind, that grows on dry land ; yams, and several other vege-
tables, at a very reasonable rate.

The inhabitants are Javanese, whose raja is subject to the sultan of Bantam. Their cus-
toms are very similar to those of the Indians about Batavia ; but they seem to be more
jealous of their women, for we never saw any of them during all the time we were there,
except one by chance in the woods, as slio was running away to hide herself. They profess
the Mahometan religion, but I believe there is not a mosque in the whole island : we were
among them during the fast, which the Turks call Ratnadan, wiiich they seemed to keep
with great rigour, for not one of them would touch a morsel of victuals, or even chew their
betel till sunset.

Their food is nearly the same as that of the Batavian Indians, except the addition of the
nuts of the palm, called Ci/cas clrchialls, with which, upon the coast of New Holland, some
of our people were made sick, and some of our hogs j)oisoned.

Upon observing these nuts to be part of their food, we intjuired by what means they
deprived them of their deleterious quality ; and they told us, that they first cut them into
thin slices and dried them in the sun, then steeped them in fresh water for three months,
and afterwards, pressing out the water, dried tliem in the sun a second time ; but we learnt
that, after all, they are eaten only in times of scarcity, when they mix them with tlieir rice
to make it "o farther.

The houses of their town are built upon piles, or pillars, four or five feet above the ground :
upon these is laid a floor of bamboo canes, whicii.are jdaced at some distance from each other,
80 as to leave a free passage for the air from below : the walls also are of bamboo, which
are interwoven, burdlewise, with small sticks, that are fastened perpendicularly to the beams
which form the frame of the building : it has a sloping roof, which is so well thatched with
palm leaves, that neither the sun nor the rain can find entrance. The ground over which
this building is erected, is an oblong tquare. In the middle of one side is the door, and in
the middle between that and the end of the house, towards the left hand, is a window : a
partition runs out from each end towards the nuddle, which, if continued, would divide the
whole floor into two equal parts, longitudinally ; but they do not meet in the middle, so that
an opening is left over-against the door ; each end of the house, therefore, to the right and
left of the door, is divided into two rooms, like stalls in a stable, all open towards the pas-
sage from the door to the wall on the opposite side : in that next the door to the left hand,
the children sleej) ; th.at opposite to it, on the right hand, is allotted to strangers; the master
and his wife sleep in the inner room on the left hand, and that opposite to it is the kitchen.
There is no ditlerence between the houses of the poor and the rich, but in the size ; except
that the royal palace, and the house of a man, whose nanu; is Gnndaiif/, the next in riches
and influence to the king, is walled with boards instead of being wattled with sticks and
bamboo.

As the people are obliged to abandon the town, and live in the rice-fields at certain
seasons, to secure their crops from the birds and the monkeys, they have occasional houses
there for their accommodation. They are exactly the same as the houses in the town,
except that they are smaller, and are elevated eight or ten feet above the ground instead
of four.

The disposition of the people, as far as we could discover it, is good. They dealt with us
very honestly, except, like all other Indians, and the itinerant retailers of fish in London,
they ask sometimes twice, and sometimes thrice as much for their commodities as they would
take. As what they brought to market belonged, in difl'erent proportions, to a consider-
able number of the natives, and it would have been difiicult to purchase it in separate lots,
they found out a very easy expedient with which every one was satisfied : they put all that
was bought of one kind, as plantains, or cocoa-nuts together, i\nd when we had agreed for
tiie heap, they divided the money that was paid for it, among those of whose separate
• The fruit of tiic Juca tree Artocarpus inlrgrifolia, a species of the bread-fruit, teenii to be here alludeil to. — Ed.

320

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1771.

'(;

5 :

property it consisted, in a proportion corresponding with their contributions. Sometimes,
indeed, they clianged our money, giving ua 240 doits, amounting to five shillings, for a
Spanish dollar, and ninety-six, amounting to two shillings, for a Bengal rupee.

They all sjjeak the iVIalay language, tliough they have a language of tlieir own, different
both from the Malay and the Javanese, 'llieir own language they call Catta Guninuj, the
language of the mountains ; and they say that it is spoken U]>on the mountains of Java,
whence their tribe originally migrated, first to Mew Bjiy, and tlieu to their ]»re8ent station,
being driven from their first settlement by tigers, which tlicy found too numerous to subdue.
I have already observed, that several languages are spoken by the native Javanese, in
different parts of their island ; but when I say that the language of these people is different
from the Javanese, I mean that it is difterent from the language which is spoken at Sama-
rang, a place that is distant only one day's journey from the residence of the emperor of
Java. The following is a list of corresponding words in the languages of Prince's Island,
Java, and Malacca.

ENOLISn.
A man .

A trnman .
A child .
Tlie head .
The nose
The ti/es
The <ars
The :telh .
The b( ///
The hat k.side
The Ihi/S
The kiicc
The In, .
A nail
A hand .
A finger

PRINCES

ISL

AND.

.JA''*Nr.SE

•Tnlnia

. Oong Liinaiig .

Becaii);

Ooiig Wadoiig

Oroculiitacke

. Liiii

Ilolo .

rn(in!<9

Eiiing

. J'jung

Ma.a .

. Mdto .

Cliolc

. C'irpilig .

CiitDck

. I'litu

neatuiig .

Wuttong . .

Sciit .

. edit .

Pimping .

. Poopoo .

Hiillootoor .

. Duiicul

Metis

. Sickil .

Ciicii .

C'llCll .

Lankan

. Taiigan .

Uaiiio Laiigaii

. Jai'i .

MALAY.

Oran Latki Lacki.

Paranipiiaii.

Anack.

Capiilla.

Killing.

Mata.

Cnping.

Ci'liigi.

Plot.

Pantat.

Palia.

I.ontimr.

Kaiiki.

Ciicn.

Tangan.

Jaring.

In this specimen of the languages of places so near to ciich other, the names of different
parts of the body are chosen, because they are easily obtained from people whose language
is utterly unknown, and because they are more likely to be part of the original stamen of
the language, than any other, as typo of the first objects to which they would give names.
It is very remarkable that the Mahay, the Javanese, and the Prince's Island language, have
words, wliich, if not exactly similar to the corresponding words in the languge of tiie islands
in the South Seas, are manifestly derived from the same source, as will appear from the
following table :

ENGLISH.

SOUTH SEA.

MALAY.

JAVANESE.

PRINCE S ISL

An eye .

. Malta

. JFata

. Moto

. MaU.

To eat

. Maix .

. Macan .

. Mangan.

To drink

. Eini

. l^Ionutn

. Gmiuibe.

To kill

. Matte .

. Matte.

A louse .

. Outou

. Cmitou.

Unin .

. Etuva .

. Udian .

. Udan.

Biimlioo cane

. 0\ri>c

> . . .

... . .

Awe.

A heust .

. En .

. Soiisou

. Sonsou.

A bird

. Mannu

. . .

. Manuu

. Mannuck.

A fish

Eyca .

. lean

• Iwa.

The fool .

Tapao .

. . . .

. Tapaan.

A lobster .

. Tiionra

, Uilang .

. Uiang.

Yams .

Eiit'ttlie

. Lbi .

. Urve.

To bury .

Elaniiou

. Tannam

. Taiidour.

A moschito .

. En:iiiiniou

. (inaniinuck.

To scratch

. Ueaiii .

. Garrii .

. Oani.

Coccns roots

. Taro .

. Tallas

. Talus.

In -land .

. L'ta

. Utan.

This similitude is particularly remarkable in the words expressing number, which, at
first sight, seems to be no inconsiderable proof that the science at least of tiiese different
people has a common root. But the names of numbers in the island of Madagascar are, in

'I (

Jan. 1771.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

81- 1

some instances, similar to all these, wliicli is a problem still more difficult to solve. Tliat
the names of numbers, in particular, are in a manner common to all these countries, will
appeiir from the following comparative table, which Mr. Banks drew up, with the assistance
of a negro slave, born at ftladagascar, who was on board an English ship at Batavia, and
sent to him to gratify his curiosity on this subject.

ENGLISH.

S. SKA ISLANDS.

MALAY.

JAVANESE.

prince's isl.

MADAGAS

One

. Tuliic

Siitou

. Sigi .

Hi'gie

Isse.

Tifo .

. Hii;i . . .

n.ia .

Liirnii .

n.ia . . .

Riia.

Three

Tdioii

Tiga

. Tiillii

. ToUu

Tel Ion.

Four .

. Una . . .

A 111 pat .

. P»p|iat .

Opat . . .

F.ffats.

Fine

Hriiiii .

Lima

I.iiiio

Liniah

liiiiii.

Si.v

. Wlifiicy . .

Aniiam .

Nil! nam

Oiiiiiiap

Eiif.

Srren

. Hcti.

Tiuljii

. P.tii

. Tiitljii

Titon.

Eijiht .

. Warn . . .

Di'lapaii

. Wcilo .

. Delapan . .

Walon.

Nine

. Iva .

Seiiibilaii .

Songo

Salapan

Sivi.

Ten .

Almuroa

Siipoiilou .

Sapuiiloii

. Sapouloii . .

Toniou.

In the language of Madagascar, there are other words similar to words of the same import
in the Malay. The nose in Malay is called Erting, at AFadagascar Onrou; Lida, the tongue,
is Lala; Tangan, the hand, is Tamj; and Tatina, the ground, is Tuon.

From the similitude between tlie language of the Eastern Indies, and the islands of the
South Sea, conjectures may be formed with respect to the peopling those countries, which
cannot easily be referred to Madagascar. Tlie inhabitants of Java and Madagaf^car appear
to be a different race ; the Javanese is of an olive complexion, and has long hair; the native
of Madagascar is black, and his head is not covered with hair, but wool ; and yet perhaps
this will not conclude against their having common ancestors so strongly as at first appears.
It does not seem less difficult to account for the personal difference between a native of
England and France, as an effect of mere local situation, than for the difference between the
natives of Java and Madagascar; yet it has never been supposed, that England and France
were not peopled from common ancestors. If two natives of England marry in their own
country, and afterwards remove to our settlements in the West Indies, the children that are
conceived and born there will have the complexion and cast of countenance that distinguish
the (!reole ; if they return, the children conceived and born afterwards will have no such
characteristics. If it be said that the mother's mind being impressed with different external
objects, impresses corresponding features and complexion upon the child during her preg-
nancy, it will be as difficult to refer the effect into this cause, upon mere physical principles,
as into the other ; for it can no more be shown how a mere idea, conceived in the mother's
imagination, can change the corporeal form of her infant, than hov- its form can be changed
by mere local situation. We know that people within the small circle of Great Britain
and Ireland, who are born at the distance of two or three hundred miles from each other,
will be distinguished by the Scotch face, the Welsh face, and the Irish face ; may we not
then reasonably suppose, that there are in nature qualities which act powerfully as efficient
causes, and yet are not cognisable by any of the five modes of perception which we call
senses ? A deaf man, who sees the string of a harpsichord vibrate, wh.en a corresponding
tone is produced by blowing into a flute at a distance, will see an effect of which he can no
more conceive the cause to exist in the blowing air into the fl>ite, than we can conceive the
cause of the personal difference of the various inliabitants of the globe to exist in mere local
situation ; nor can he any more form an idea of the cause itself in one case, than we can in
the other : what happens to him, then, in consequence of having but four senses instead yf
five, may, with respect to many phenomena of natiire, happen to us, in consequence of
having but five senses instead of six, or any greater number.

Possibly, however, the learning of ancient Egypt might run in two courses, one through
Africa, and the other through Asia, disseminating the same words in each, especially terms
of number, which might thus become part of the language of people who never had any
communication with each other.

We now made the best of our way for the Cape of fiood Hope, but the seeds of disease
which we had received at Batavia began to appear with the most threatening symptoms in

! [

'Vi

822

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD. AFAncii, 1771.

dysenteries .and slow fevers. Lest tlic water wliich wc had taken in at Prince's Island
should have had .any share in our sickness, '.ve purified it with lime, and wo washed all parts
of the ship between decks with vinegar, as a remedy against infection. Mr. Banks was
among the sick, and for some time there was no hope of his life. We were very soon in a
most dcploralilc situation ; the ship was nothing better than an hospital, in which those
that were able to go about were too few to attend the sick, who were confined to their
hammocks ; and we had almost every night a dead body to commit to the sea. In the
course of about six weeks, wo buried JMr. Sporing, a gentleman who was in Mr. Banks's
retinue ; Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter ; Mr. Green the astronomer, the boat-
swain, the carpenter and his mate ; Mr. JNIonkhouse the midshipman, who had fothercd the
ship after she had been stranded on the coast of New Holland ; our old jolly sail-maker and
his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a mid-
shipman, and nine seamen; in all three-and-twenty persons, besides tiie seven that we buried
at Batavia.

' i

11-

CIIAPTEU XIV. OUR ARRIVAL AT ifhlJ C'Al'E OF GOOD nOPK — SOMK REMARKS ON THE RUN

FROM JAVA HEAD TO THAT PLACE A DESCRIPTION OF THE CAPE, AND OF ST. HELENA:

WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE HOTTENTOTS, AND THE RETURN OF THi; SHIP TO ENGLAND.

On Friday, the I ')th of March, about ten o'clock in the morning, we anchored oft' the
Cape of Good Hope, in seven fathom, with an oozy bottom. The west point of the bay,
called the Lion's Tail, bore AV.N.W. and the castle S.W., distant about a mile and a half.
I immediately waited upon the governor, who told inc that I should have everythinrr the
country aflx)rded. My first care was to provide a proper place ashore for the sick, which
were not a few; and a house was soon found, where it was agreed they should bo lodged
and boarded at the rate of two shillings a-hcad per day.

Our run from Java Head to this place afforded very few subjects of remark that can
be of use to future navigators ; such as occurred, however, I shall set down. Wo had left
Java Head eleven days before we got the general south-oast trade-wind, during which tinie
we did not advance above 5" to the southward, and 3° to the west, having variable li^ht
airs, interrupted by calms, with sultry weather, and an unwholesome air, occasioned
probably by the load of vapours which the eastern trade-wind and westerly monsoons
bring into these latitudes, both which blow in these seas at the time of year when we hap-
pened to be there. Tlie easterly wind prevails as far as 10" or 12=" S.. and the westerlv as
far as (5^ or 8" ; in the intermediate space the winds are variable, and the air, I believe,
always unwholesome ; it certainly aggravated the diseases which we brought with us from
Batavia, and particularly the flux, which was not in the least degree checked by any medicine,
so that whoever was seized with it, considered himself as a dead man ; but we had no
sooner got into the trade-wind, than we began to feel its salutary effects : we buried, indeed,
several of our people afterwards, but they were such as had been taken on board in a state
so low and feeble, that there was scarcely a possibility of their recovery. At first we
suspected that this dreadful disorder might have been brought upon us by the water that
we took on board at Prince's Island, or even by the turtle that we bought there ; but there
is not the least reason to believe that this suspicion was well grounded, for all the ships that
came from Batavia at the same season, suffered in the same degree, and some of them even
more severely, though none of them touched at Prince's Island in their way.

A few days after we left Java, we saw boobies about the ship fo» several nights succes-
sively, and as these birds are known to roost every night on shore, we thought them an
indication that some island was not far distant ; perhaps it might be the island of Selam,
which, in different charts, is very differently laid down both in name and situation.

The variation of the compass off the west coast of Java is about 3" W., and so it
continued without any sensible variation, in the common track of ships to the longitude of
288° W,, latitude 22° S., after which it increased apace, so that in longitude 295°, latitude
23°, the variation was 10" 20' W. : in seven degrees more of longitude, and one of latitude,
it increased two degrees ; in the same space farther to the west, it increased five degrees : in

ApRri>, 1771.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAUK ROUND THE WORLD.

succes-
leni aa
Selam,

so it

itude of

atitude

atitiidc,

•ces : in

latitude 28°, longitude 'Mi, it was 24" 20'; in latitude 20", longitude .tl7°, it was 20" 10";
and was then stationary for the space of about ton degrees farther to the west ; but in
latitude 34", longitude ',\M\", we observed it twice to be 20|" W., and this was its greatest
variation, for in latitude SSf, longitude ."3.^7, it was 24", and continued gradually to decrease ;
so that off Cape Anguillas, it was 22" .'«>', and in Table Bay 20" ."iO' W.

As to currents, it did not appear that tiiey were at all considerable, till wo came within
a little distance of tho meridian of Madagascar ; for, after wo had made r)2° of longitude
from Java Head, we found, by observation, that our error in longitude was only two
degrees, and it was tho same when we had made only nineteen. Tiiis error might
bo owing partly to a current setting to the westward, partly to our not making proper
allowances for the setting of the sea before which we run, and periiaps to an error
in the assumed longitude of Java Head. If that longitude is erroneous, tho error must
be imputed to the imperfection of tho charts of which I made use in reducing the longitude
from Batavia to that place, for there can bo no doubt but that the longitude of Batavia is
well determined. After we had passed the longitude of 30/°, the effects of the westerly
currents began to be considerable ; for in three days, our error in longitude was 1° .'»' : tho
velocity of tho current kei)t increasing, as we ])roceeded to the westward, insomuch that,
for five days successively after we made the land, wc were driven to tho S.W. or S.W. by
"NV., not less than twenty leagues a day; and this continued till wc were within sixty or
seventy leagues of the Cape, where the current set sometimes one way, and sometimes the
other, tliough inclining rather to the westward.

After the boobies had left us, we saw no more birds till we got nearly abreast of
]\Iadagascar, where, in latitude 27|° S., we saw an albatross, and after that time we saw
them every day in great numbers, with birds of several other sorts, particularly one about
as big as a duel', of a very dark brown colour with a yellowish bill. These birds became
more numerous as we approached the shore, and as soon as we got into soundings, we saw
gannets, which we continued to see as long as we were upon the bank which stretches oft"
Anguillas to the distance of forty leagues, and extends along the shore to the eastward from
Cape False, according to some charts, one hundred and sixty leagues. The real extent of
this bank is not exactly known ; it is, however, useful as a direction to shipping when to
haul in, in order to make the land.

"While we lay here, the Houghton Indiaman sailed for England, who, during her stay in
India, lost by sickness between thirty and forty men, and when she left tho Cape had many
in a helpless condition with the scurvy. Other ships suffered in the same proportion, who
had been little more than twelve months absent from England ; our sufferings, therefore,
were comparatively light, considering that we had been absent near three times as long.

Having lain hero to recover tho sick, procure stores, and perform several necessary
operations upon the ship and rigging, till the 13th of April, I then got all the sick on board,
several of whom were still in a dangerous state, and having taken leave of the governor, I
munoored the next morning, and got rctady to sail.

The Cape of Good Hope has been so often described, and is so well known in Europe, that I
shall mention only a few particulars, which, in other relations, are omitted or misrepresented.

Notwithstanding all that has been said to the contrary, no country that we saw during
the voyage makes a more forlorn ap])carance, or is in reality a more sterile desert. Tho
land over the Cape, which constitutes the peninsula formed by Table Bay on the north, and
False Bay on the south, consists of high mountains, altogether naked and desolate : tho
land behind these to the east, which may be considered as the isthmus, is a plain of vast
extent, consisting almost wholly of a light kind of sea-sand, which produces nothing but
heath, and is utterly incapable of cultivation. All the spots that will admit of improve-
ment, which together bear about the same proportion to the whole as one to one thousand,
are laid out in vineyards, orchards, and kitchen-grounds ; and most of these little spots lie
at a considerable distance from each other. There is also the greatest reason to believe, that,
in the interior parts of this country, that which is capable of cultivation does not bear
a greater proportion to that which is incorrigibly barren ; for the Dutch told us, that they
had settlements eight-and-twentv rays' journey up the country, a distance equal to at least

'Ml

324

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLD.

Apnii,, 1771.

nine liunrlrcd miles, from which they bring provisions to the Cape by land ; so that it seems
reasonable to conchide that provisions are not to be had within a less c-onipass. While we
were at the Capo, a farmer came thither from the country, at the distance of fifteen days'
journey, and brought his young children with him. Wc were surprised at this, and asked
him, if it wo\ild not have been better to have left them witli his next neighbour. Neigh-
bour ! said the man, I have no neiglibour within less than five days' journey of me. — Surely
the country must be deplorably barren in which those who settle only to raise provisions for
a market are dispersed at such distances from each other ! That the country is everywhere
destitute of wood appears to demonstration ; for timber and planks are imported from
Batavia, i.iid fuel is almost as dear as food. AVc saw no tree, except in plantations near the
town, that was six feet high ; and the stems, that were not thicker than a man's thumb,
had roots as thick as an arm or a leg ; such is the iuHuence of the winds here to the disad-
vantage of vegetation, setting the sterility of the soil out of the question.

TAULE B*Y lAPK Of GOOD HOPE.

The only town wliich the Dutch have built here is, from its situation, called Capo Town,
and consists of about a thousand houses, neatly built of brick, and in general whited on the
outside ; they are, however, covered only with thatch, for the violence of the south-east
winds would render any other roof inconvenient and dangerous. The streets are broad and
commodious, all crossing each otlier at right angles. In the principal street there is a canal,
on each side of which is planted a row of oaks, that have flourished tolerably well, and yield
an agreeable shade : there is a canal also in one other part of the town, but the slope of the
ground in the course of both is so great, that they are furnished with flood-gates, or locks,
at intervals of little more than fifty yards.

A much greater proportion of the inhabitants are Dutch in this place than in Batavia ;
and as the town is supj)orted principally by entertaining strangers, and supplying them with
necessaries, every man, to a certain degree, imitates the manners and customs of the nation
with which he is chiefly concerned. The ladies, however, are so faithful to the mode of
their country, that not one of tliem will stir without a chaudpied or chauft'et, which is carried
by a servant, that it may be ready to place under her feet whenever she shall sit down.
Tliis practice is the more remarkable, as very few of these chaufl'ets have fire in them, which
indeed the climate renders unnecessary.

The women, in general, are very handsome ; they have fine clear skins, and a bloom of

Ai'Hii., 1771.

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND TIIK WORLD.

:»:3

C(tloiir tliat indicatt'S a |iiirity of coiiHtitution. and Iiijrli licaltli. Tliey make tlic best wivos in
tlio world, botli as mistresses of a family and niothirs ; and tliiTo is t^carcoly a lioiise tliat
dofs not swarm witJi cliililrcn.

The air is salutary in a high dejrree ; so that those who bring discascM hither from Europe,
generally recover perfect health in a s^hort time ; but the diseases that are brought from
India are not so certainly cured.

Notwithstanding the natural sterility of the elimate, industry has sup]died this place with
all the necessaries, and even the luxuries of life, in the greatest profusion. 'J'ho beef and
nuitton arc excellent, though the cattle and sheep are natives of the country ; the cattle are
lighter than ours, more neatly made, and have horns that spread to a much wider extent.
The sheep are clothed with a substance between wool and hair, ami have tails of an enor-
mous size; we saw some that weighed twelve pounds, and were told that there were many
much larger. Good butter is made of the milk of tlio cows, but the cheese is very mucli
inferior to our own. Hero are goats, (but they are never eaten,) bogs, and a variety of
jioultry. Hares are also found here, exactly like those of Europe ; antelopes of many kinds,
(piails of two sorts, and bustards, which are well flavoured, but not juicy. The fields produce
European wheat and barley, and the ganlens European vegetables, and fruit of all kimls,
besides plantains, guavas, jambu, and some other Indian fruits, but these are not in perfec-
tion ; the plantains, in particular, arc very bad, and the gnavas no larger than gooseberries.
The vineyards also produce wine of various sorts, but not equal to those of Europe, except
the Conatantia, which is made genuine only at one vineyard, about ten miles distant from
the town. There is another vineyard near it, where wine is made that is called by the
same name, but it is greatly inferior.

The common method in which strangers li-ve here, is to lodge and board with some of the
inhabitants, many of whose houses are always open for their reception : the rates arc from
five shillings to two shillings a day, for which all neces^^aries are found. Coaches jnay be
hired at four-and-twenty shillings a day, and horses nt six shillings ; but the country afl'orda
very little temptation to use them. There are no public entertainments ; and those that are
jirivatc, to which strangers of the rank of gentlemen arc always admitted, were suspended
while we were there by the breaking out of the measles.

At the farther end of the High-street, the Company have a garden, which is about two-
tliirds of an English mile long ; the whole is divided by walks that intersect each other at
right angles, and are planted with oaks that arc dipt into wall-hedges, except in the centre
walk, where they are suffered to grow to their full size, and attbrd an agreeable shade, which
is the more welcome, as, except the plantations by the sides of the two canals, there is not a
singletree that would serve even for a shepherd's bush, within many miles of the town. The
greater part of this g.irden is kitchen ground ; but two small squares are allotted to botanical
))lauts, which did not appear to be so numerous by one half as they were when Oldenland
wrote his catalogue. At the farther end of the garden is a menagerie, in which there are
many birds and beasts that are never seen in Europe ; particularly a beast called by the
Hottentots Coe doc, which is as large as a horse, and has the fine spiral horns which are
sometimes seen in private and public collections or curiosities ".

Of the natives of this country, wo could learn but little, exce])t from report ; for there
were none of their habitations, where alone they retain their original customs, within less
than four days' journey from the town ; those that we saw at the Ciipc were all servants to
Dutch farmers, whose cattle they take care of, and are enqdoyed in other drudgery of the
meanest kind. These are in general of a slim make, and rather lean than j>luiiip, but re-
markably strong, nimble, and active. Their size is nearly the same with that of Europeans,
and we saw some that were six feet high ; their eyes are dull and without expression ; their
skins are of the colour of soot, but that is in a great measure caused by the dirt, which is so
wrought into the grain that it cannot be distinguished from complexion ; for 1 believe they

:'l

* This is the Coudous or Koodoo, Ant. Strepciseros fcetliigli iit the shouhler, arid is ciglit feet long. It in-

of Cuvier ; improperly descrihcd as Condoma hy Buffon, liahita the rocky pliiitu of the Karoo moiiiitaiiis. Thti

while he gave the name of Condon to another species, the female is without horns. — Ed.
Inipooto or Potto, Ant. Ocan of Cuvier. It stands four

020

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE >VORLU.

Ai'nii., 1771.

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never w;idli any part of their liodiis. Tlit-ir liair curls strongly, not like a negro's, but falls
in ringlets about seven or eight inches long. Tiieir clothing consists of a skin, generally that
of a sheep, thrown over their shouhlers ; besides which, the men wear a small pouch in the
middle of the waist, and the women, a broad leather flap, both which liang from a girdle or
belt that is adorned with beads and small pieces of eo|)per. Both men and women wear
necklaces, and sometimes bracelets of l>eads ; and the women wear rings of hard leather round
their ancles, to defend them from the thorns, with which their country everywhere abounds :
some of them have a sandal, made of wood or bark ; but the greater part of them arc unshod.

To a European, their language appears to Ik> scarcely articulate ; besides which it is dis-
tinguished by a very remarkable singularity. At very frequent intervals, while they arc
speaking, they cluck with the tongue against the roof of the mouth: these clucks do not
appear to have any meaning, but rather to divide what they say into sentences. Most of
those Hottentots speak Dutch, without any peculiarity of pronunciation.

They are all modest, even to sheepishncss ; for it was not without the greatest difficulty
that we could persuade any of them to dance, or even to speak in their own language to
each other, in our presence. We did however both see them dance, and hear them sing ;
their dances are, by turns, active and sluggish to excess ; sometimes consisting of quick and
violent motions, with strange distortions of the body, and unnatural leaps backwards and
forwards, with the legs crossing each other ; and being sometimes so si)iritless that the dancer
only strikes the ground first with one foot and then with the other, neither changing place
nor moving any other part of his body : the songs also are alternately to quick and slow
movements, in the same extremes us the dance.

AVe made many inquiries concerning these people of the Dutch, and the following par-
ticulars are related njjon the credit of their report.

Within the boundaries of the Dutch settlements, there are several nations of these people,
who very much difier from each other in their customs and manner of life : all, however, are
friendly and peaceable, except one clan that is settled to the eastward, which the Dutch call
liosc/i men, and these live entirely by plunder, or rather by theft ; for they never attack thoir
neighbours openly, but '^teal the cattle privately in the night. Tlrcy are armed however to
defend themselves, if they happen to be detected, with lances or assagays, and arrows, which
they know how to poison by various ways, some with the juice of herbs, and some with the
venom of the serpent, called Cobra di Caitello ; in the hands of these people a stone also is a
very formidable weapon, for they can throw it with such force and exactness as repeatedly to
hit a dollar at the distance of a hundred i)aces. As a defence against these freebooters, the
other Indians train up bulls, which they place round their towns in the night, and which,
upon the approach of either man or beast, will assemble and oppose them, till they hear the
voice of their masters encouraging them to fight, or calling them ofl", which they obey with
the same docility .as a dog.

Some nations have the art of melting and preparing copper, which is found among them,
probably native ; and of this they make broad plates, which they wear as ornaments upon
their foreheads. Some of them also know how to harden bits of iron, which they procure
from the Dutch, and form into knives, so as to give them a temper superior to that of any
they can buy.

The chiefs, mjiny of whom arc possessors of very numerous herds of cattle, are generally
clad in the sicins of lions, tigers, or zebras, to which they add fringes, and other ornaments,
in a very good taste. Both sexes frequently anoint the body with grease, but never use any
that is rancid or fetid, if fresh can be had. Glutton suet and butter are generally used for
this jnirpose ; butter is preferred, which they make by shaking the milk in a bag made of
the skin of some beast.

We were told that the priest certainly gives the nuptial benediction, by sprinkling the
bride and bridegroom with his urine. But the Dutch universally declared that the women
never wrapped the entrails of sheep round their legs, as they have been said to do, and after-
wards make them part of their food. Semicastration was also absolutely denied to be
general ; but it was acknowledged that some among the particular nation which knew
how to melt copper had suffered that operation, who were said to be the best warriors, and
particularly to excel in the art of throwing stones.

Aphil, 177I>

COOKS MUST VOVAOE KOUNU TIIK WOULD.

.'127

lom.

Wo were vury duHlrous to dott-rmiiio tho great (|Hcstioii ftinong natural iii»toriuii8, wliotlnr
tlic woiiion of this country liavo or have not that fhsliy flap or ni)ron whicli has heuu calKd
tho Siitnii /iiulorin, and wliat wu Icar-t I sliall relate. Many of tho Dutch and Alahiys, who
said tlu'y li.ul received favours from Hottentot witinen, iiositively denied its existence ; hut a
lihvsticiau of the place declared that he liad cured many hundreds of venereal complaints, and
never saw one without two fleshy, or rather skinn) app'jiid.ij^es, jjroeeeding from tho upper
part of tho lafiia, in a|)pearance somewhat resomhliug tho teats of a cow, hut flat ; they hung
down, he said, before tho pudendum, and were in different subjects of diflerent lengths, in
some not more than half an inch, in others three or four inches : tlic-e lie imagined to he
what some writers have exaggerated into a flap, or apron, hanging down fntm the bottom of
the abdomen, of suflicient extent to render an artificial covering of tlie neiyld)ouring parts
unnecessary.

This much for tho country, its i»roductions, and inhabitants. The bay is large, safe, and
commodious ; it lies open indeed to the north-west winds, but they seldom blow hard ; yet
as they sometimes send in a great sea, tho 8hij)s moor N.E. and S.AV., so as to have an
open hav/ser with north-west winds : the south-east winds blow fre(piently with great vio-
lence, but as the direction is right out of the bay, they are not dangerous. Near the town a
wharf of wood is run out to a proper distance for tho convenience of lauding and bhi|)ping
goods. To this wharf water is conveyed in l)ipes, from which several boats may fill water
at the same time ; and several largo boats or hoys are kept by the Company to carry stores
and provisions to and from the shipping in tho harbour. Tho bay is defended by a s(piare
fort, situated close to the beach on the cast side of the town, and by several outworks and
batteries extending along the shore, as well on this side of the town as the other; but they
are so situated as to be cnnnonaded by shipjring, and arc in a manner defenceless against an
enemy of any force by land. Tho garrison consists of eight hundred regular troops, besides
militia of the country, in which is comprehended every man able to bear arms. They have
contrivances to alarm the whole country by signals in a very short time, and the militia is
then to repair immediately to the town.

The French at Mauritius arc supplied from this place with salted beef, biscuit, flour, and
wine ; the provisions for which tho French contracted this year were 500,000 lljs. weight of
salt beef, 400,0001bs. of flour, 400,000 lbs. of biscuit, and 1,200 Icagers of wine.

On the morning of the 14th, we weighed and stood out of the bay ; and at five in the
evening anchored under Penquin, or Robin island : we lay here all night, and as I could not
sail in the morning for want of wind, I sent a boat to the island for a lev/ trifling articles
which we had forgot to take in at tho Cape. But as soon as the boat cr.nie near the shore,
the Dutch hailed her, and warned the people not to land, at their peril, brnging down at the
same time six men armed with muskets, who paraded upon the beach. The ofliccr who
commanded th" boat, not thinking it worth while to risk the lives of tho people on board for
tho sake of a few cabbrgcs, which were all wo wanted, returned to the ship. At first we
were at a loss to account for our repulse, but we afterwurds recollected, that to this island
the Dutch at the Cape banish such criminals as are not thought worthy of death, for a
certain number of years, proportioned to the offence ; and employ them as slaves in digging
limestone, which, though scarce upon the continent, is plenty here : and that a Danish
ship, which by sickness had lost great part of her crew, and had been refused assistance at
the Cape, came down to this island, and sending her boat ashore, secured tho guard, and took
on board as many of the criminals as she thought proper to navigate her home : we concluded
therefore that the Dutch, to prevent the rescue of their criminals in time to come, had given
order to their people here to suffer no boat of any foreign nation to come ashore.

On the 25th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed, with a light breeze at S.E.,
and put to sea. About an hour afterwards, we lost our master, Mr. Robert ^lollineux, a
young man of good parts, but unhappily given up to intemperance, which brought on
disorders that put an end to his life.

We proceeded in our voyage homeward without any remarkable incident ; and in the
morning of the 29th we crossed our first meridian, having circumnavigated the globe in tho
direction from east *,o west, and consequently lost a day, for which we made an allowance at
Batavia.

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C23

COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

Mav, 1771.

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At daybreak, on the first of IMay, wo saw tlie inland of St. Helena ; and at noon, we
ancliored in the road before James's Fort.

Wo staid Iierc till the 1th, to refresh, and ]Mr. Banks improved the time in making the
complete circuit of the island, and visitinr^ the most remarkable jilaces upon it.

It is situated, as it were, in the middle of ';lie vast Atlantic Ocean, being four hundred
leagues distant from the coast of Africa, and six hundred from tiiat of America. It is the
summit of an immense mountain rising out of tlie sea, which, at a little distance all lound it,
is of an unfathomable depth ; and is no more than twelve leagues long, and six broad.

The seat of volcanoes lias, without exception, been found to be the highest part of the
countries in which tiiey arc found. ^3tna and Vesuvius have no land higher than them-
selves, in their neighbourhood ; Ilecla is the higiiest hill in Iceland : volcaiu)e3 are frequent
in the highest part of the Andes in South America ; and the Peak of 'I'eneriflPe is known to
be the covering of subterraneous fire : these are still burning, but there arc innumerable other
mountains which bear evident murks of fire that is now extinct, and has been so from the
time of our earliest traditions : among these is Saint Helena, where the inequalities of the
ground, in its external surface, are manifestly the effect of the sinking of the earth, for the
opposite ridges, though separated always by deep, and sometimes by broad valleys, are
exactly similar both in appearance and direction ; and thitt the sinking of tlie earth in these
parts was caused by subterraneous fire, is equally manifest from tlie stones ; for some of
them, especially those in the bottom of tiie valleys, are burnt almost to a cinder : in some
there are small bubbles, like those that are seen in glass which has been urged almost to
fusion, and some, thoiigii at first sight they do not appear to have been exposed to the
action of great Iieat, will be found, 'ipon a closer ins]iecti()n, to contain small pieces of extra-
neous Ixidies, particularly mundick, which have yielded to the power of fire, though it was
not snfiieicnt to alter the appearance of tlie stone which contained them.

It appeared, as we approticlied it on the windward side, like a rude heap of rocks, bounded
by precij)ices of auiazing height, and consisting of a kind of half friable stone, which shows
not the least sign of vegetation ; nor is it more ])romi^<ing upon a nearer view : in sailing
along the siiorc, we came so near the huge cliffs, that they seemed to overhang the ship, and
the trenien<lous effect of their giving way uuide us almost '"t.; the event : at length wo
ojiened a valley, called Chaj)el Valley, which resembles a large trench ; and ir. this valley we
discovered the town. The bottom of it is slightly covered with herbage, but, the sides are
as naked as the clifts that are n xt the sea. Such is the first appearance oi the island in its
jtresent cultivated stitte, and the first hills must be passed before the valleys look green, or
the country disphus any other marks of fertility.

The town stands just by the sea-side, and the far greater part of the houses are ill bi'.ilt ;
the church, which originally was a mean structure, is in ruins, and the market-house is nearly
in the same condition.

The white inhabitants are all English, who, as they arc not permitted by the East Irihi
Company, to whom iho island belongs, to carry on nny trade or connnerce on their own
account, subsist wholly by su]ii)Iying siuh slii]!S as touch at the place with refreeliments,
which, however, they do not provide in proportion to the fertility of thesnil, and the temper-
ament of the climate, which would enal>le them, by cultivation, to produce all the fruits antl
vegetables both <>f Kuroj)e and India. I'his islaid, indeed, small as it is, enjoys the dirterent
advantages of different climates, for the cabbage-trees, which grow upon the highest ridges.
can by no art be cultivated upon the ridges next below, where the red-wood and gum-wood
both flourish, which will not grow ujion the ridges above, and neither of the thre(> are to be
found in the valleys, whicii, in general, are covered with European plants, and the more com-
mon ones of India. Here are a few horses, but they are kept only for the saddle, so that
all labour is performed by slaves ; nor are they furnis'ied with any of the various machines
which art has invented to facilitate their task. The '^omid is not everj where too steep
for a cart, ami where it is, tlie wheelbarrow Plight bo used witli great advantage, yet there
is no wh ibarrow in the wliole island; everything is conveyed Iron, place to i»lace by the
slaves, and they are not furnished even with the simjde convenie"ce of a porter's knot, but
carry their burden upon their heads. Tliey aie iiuleed very numerous, and are brought to

Jim:, 1771.

COOK'S FIRST voya(;e round the world.

329

almost every part of the world, but they ai)pearc(l to he a miserable race, worn out partly by
excessive labour, and partly by ill usage, of wliieh thoy frequently coniplaii\ed ; and I am
sorry to say, that iuL^tances of wanton cruelty are much more frequent among my country-
men !ierc, than among tlie Dutdi, who are, and perliaps not without reason, generally
rei)ro.iched witii want of humanity at Batavia and the Cai)o*.

Among the native jiroducts of this island, whi'^h are not numerous, nuist be reckoned
ebony, tliough th' *,rees are now nearly extinct, and are not renu inhered to have been j)li'nty :
])ieccs of the wood are frcqiicntly found in the valleys, of a fine black colour, and a hardness
almost equal to iron : these pieces, however, are always so short and crooked, that no use
can he made of them. Whether the tree is the same witli that which ])roduces ebony upon
the Isle of liourbon, or the islands adjacent, is not known, as the French have not yet published
any account of it.

There are but few insects in this place, but there is a species of snail fotmd upon the tops
of the higlu'ot ridges, which probably has been there since the original creation of their kind,
at the beginning of the world. It is indeed very difficult to conceive iiow anything which
was not deposited here at its creation, or brought hither by the dilig'uce of man, could find
its way to a place so severed from the rest of the world, by seas of immense extent, excej)t
the hypothesis that has been mentioned on another occasion bo adopted, and this rock be
supposed to have been left behind, w'em a large tract of country, of which it was part, sub-
sided by S(mic convulsion of nature, and was sw.allowed up in the ocean.

At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th of May, we weighed and stood out of the road,
in company with the Portland man-of-war, and twelve sail of Indiamen.

We continued to sail in company with the fleet, till the lOth in the morning, when, jier-
cciving that we sailed much heavier than. any other ship, and thinking it for that riasou
probable that the Portland would get home before us, I made the signal to speak with her,
upon wliich Captain Elliot himself came on board, and I delivered to him a letter to the
Admiralty, with a box, containing the common log-books of the shij), and the journals of
some of the officers. We continued in company, however, till the 2.3d in the morning, and
then there was not one of the ships in sight. AVtout one o'clock in the afternoon died our
first lieutenant Mr. Ilicks, and in the evening we committed his body to the sea, with the
usual ceremonies. The disease of which ho died was a consumj)tion, and as he was not free
from it when we sailed from England, it may truly be said that he was dying during the whole
voyage, though his decline was very gradual till we came to Batavia : the next day I gave
JMr. Cliarlcs Clerk an order to act as lieutenant in his room, a young man who was extremely
well qualified for that station.

Our rigging and sails were now become so bad, that something was giving way every
day. We continued our course, however, in safety till the lOth of June, when land, which
proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the same boy tiiat first saw
New Zealand : on the "th, we run up the channel; at six in the morning of the 12th wo
passed Beachy Ifead ; at noon we were abreast of Dover, and about three came to in anelior
in the Downs, and went ashore at Deal.

,1- I

* Tliis stutcme"* is retracted in .i note to tlie introdiirtimi to tlie Second Vo_v.i).'0 Kd.

KND Ol- Tril; FIRST VoYAOK.

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COOKS SECOMJ VOYAGE.

A VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD,

PERPOKMFD IN

ins BRITANNIC MAJESTV'S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND ADVENTURE, IN THE YEARS

1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775.

WlllTTFN

BY JAMES UOOK, COMMANDER OF HIE RESOLUTION;
AND GEORGE FORSTER, F.R.S.

Mi-

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GENERAL INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND VOYAGE.

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Whether the unexplored part of the Southern Hemisphere ha only an imnionse mass of
water, or contain another conthient, as speculative geography seemed to suggest, was a
question which had long engaged the attention, not only of learned men, but of most of the
maritime powei'S of Europe. To put an end to all diversity of opinion about a matter so
curious and important, was his Majesty's principal motive in directing this voyage to be
undertaken, the history of which is now submitted to the public.

But in order to give the reader a clear idea of what has been done in it, and to enable hinj
to judge more accurately how far the great object that was proposed has been obtained, it
will be necessary to prefix a short account of the several voyages which have been made on
discoveries to the Southern Hemisphere prior to that wliich J had lately the honour to con-
duct, and which I am now going to relate.

Tlic first wliG crnosed the vast Pacific Ocean was Ferdinand Magalhaens, a Portuguese,
who, in the service of Spain, sailed from Seville, witii five ships, on the 10th of April, l.">]9.
He discovered tiie Straits which bear liis name ; and having passed through them on the
27th of November, 1520, entered the Smith Pacific Ocean. In this sea he discovered two
uninhabited islands, whose situations are not well known. lie afterwards crossed the Line,
discovered the Ladrone Islands, and then proceeded to the Philippines, in one of which he
was killed in a skirmisii with the natives. His ship, called the Victory, was the first that
circuTunavigated the globe, and the only one of his squadron that surmoimted the dangers
and distresses which attended his heroic enterprise.

The Spaniards, after Magalhaens had showed them the way, made several voyages from
America to the westward, previous to tiiat of Alvaro IMendana De Neyra, in 1595, which
is the first that can be traced ste]) by step ; for the antecedent expeditions are not handed
down to us with much precision. AVe know, however, in general, that in tiiem New Guinea,
the islands called Solomon's, and severa) otiiers, were discovered. Geographers diflTer greatly
concerning the situation of the Solomon Islands : the most probable opinion is, that they are
the cluster whicli comprises what has since been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c.

On the 9tli of April, 1595, Mendana, with intention to settle these islands, sailed from
Callao with four ships ; and his discoveries in his route to the West were, the ISIarqucsas in
the latitude of 10° south ; the island of St. Bernardr , which I take to he the same that
ComuMHtore Hyrou calls the Isla'iid of Danger; aft-r that, Solitary Island, in the latitude
J0° 40' south, longitirdf 17^ west; and, lastly, Santa Cruz, which is undoubte<lly the same
that Captain Carteret calls Mgmont Island. In tlii> l.ist island, Mendana, with many of his
conij)anion3, died ; iind the shattered remains of the Sfpimlron were conducted to Manilla by
Pedro Fernandez de (^ilid;-, ll|/i diicf pilot.

Tills sauu^ Qiiinim wiih the first sent out, with tli(> solo view of discovering a Sduthcrn
Continent ; and, indeed, he seems to hav bei n the first who had any idea of the existence
of one. Ho sailed from Callao the 21st of l)ecend)er, ](i05, as pilot of the fleet, commanded
by Luis Pa/, de Torres e<msisting of two ships and a tender; and .teering to tlic W.vS.W.
on the 2(itli of .lanuiiry, I'lOtI, being then, by their reckoning, a tlmuHand Spanish leagues
from the coast of America, they discovered a small low island in latitude 25"" South Two

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.134

INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND VOYAGE.

■ M!

IJi

days after, they discovered another that was higli, witli a plain on the top. Tliis is, pro-
bably, the same that Captain Carteret calls Pitcairn's Island. After leaving these islands,
Quiros seems to have directed his conrsc to the W.N.W. and N.W. to 10° or 11° South
latitude, and then westward, till he arrived at the bay of St. Philip and Jago, in the island
of Tierra del Espiritu Santo. In this route he discovered several islands ; probably, some of
those that have been seen by later navigators. On leaving the Bay of St. Philip and St.
Jago, the two ships were separated. Quiros, with the C.apitana, stood to the north, and
returned to New Spain, after hivving suffered greatly for want of provisions and water. —
Torres, with the Alniiranta and the tender, steered to the west, and seems to have been the
first who sailed between New Holland and New Guinea.

The next attempt to moke discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean was conducted by Ln
Maire and Schouten. — They sailed from theTexel on the I4tli of June, 161;"*, with tlie ships
Concord and Horn. Tlie latter was burnt by accident in Port Desire. With the other,
the}' discovered the Strait that bears the name of Lc Claire, and were the first wlio ever
entered tlie Pacific Ocean, by the way of Cape Horn. They discovered the Island of Dogs,
in latitude l'»° liV South, longitude 136° 30' West ;~S()ndre Groiidt, in 1')° South latitude,
and 143° 10' "West longitude ;—Waterland, in 14' 40' South, and 144° 10' West;— and,
tv/enty-five leagues westward of this. Fly Island, in latitude 15° 20'; — Traitor's and Cocos
Islands, in latitude 15" 43' S. longitude 173° 13' W. : — two degrees more to the westward,
the Isle of Hope ;— and, in the latitude of 14° 56' South, longitude 179° 30' East, Horn
Island. They next coasted the north side of New Britain and New Guirea. and arrived at
iJatavia in October 1(11(5.

Except some discoveries on the western and northern coasts of New Holland, no important
voyage to the Pacific Ocean was undertaken till 1(542, when Captain Tasman sailed from
Batavia, with two ships belonging to the Dutch East India Company, and discovered Van
Dienien^s Land ; — a small part of the western coast of New Zealand ; — the Friendly Isles ;
and those called Prince William's.

Thus ftvr I have tliought it best not to interrupt the progress of discovery in the South
Pacific Ocean ; otherwise I should before have mentioned, that Sir Richard Hawkins in 151)4,
being about fifty leagues to the eastward of the river Plate, was driven by a storm to the
eastward of his intended course, and when the weatlier gre\N' moderate, steering towards the
Straits of Magalhaens, ho unexpectedly fell in with land ; about sixty leagues of which he
coasted, and has very particularly described. Tliis lie named Hawkins's Maiden Land, in
honour of his royal mistress, (^ueen Elizabeth, and says it lies some threescore leagues from
the nearest part of South America. This land was afterwards discovered to bo two large
islands by Captain John Strong, of the Farewell, from London, who, in 1()8(), passed
through the Strait which divides the eastern from the western of those islands. To this
Strait be gave the name of Falkland's Sound, in honour of his patron, Lord Falkland; and
the name has since been extended, through inadvertency, to the two islands it se|)arates.

Having mentioned tliese islands, I will add, tliat future navigators will misspend their
time, if they look for Pepys's Island in 47" South ; it being now certain, that Pepys's Island
is no other than thes.' Islands of Falkland.

In April 1(575, Anthonj'' la Roche, an English niercliant, in his return from the South
Pacific (^ecan, where he had been on a trading voyage, being carried, by the winds and
currents, far to the east of Strait Le jMaire, fell in with a coast, which may possibly be the
same with that which I visited during this voyage, and have called tlie Island of Georgia.
Leaving this land, and sailing to the north. La Roche, in the latitude of 45° South, discovered
a large island, with a good port, towards the eastern part, where he found wood, water,
and fish.

In 1(599, that celebrated astronomer Dr. Ediiimul Ilallcy was appointed to the command
of his Majesty's ship the Paramour Pink, on an expudition for improving the knowledge of
tho longitude, and of the variation of the compass ; and for discovering the unknown hinds
Hn))poscd to lie in the southern part of the Atlantic (Jecan. In this voyage he determined
tlie longitude of several places ; and after his return, coiiHtructed his Variation C'liart, and
proposed a method of observing the longitude at sea, by means of the appulses, and oceulta-

South

is and

|be tlie

n;ia.

lovcred

I water,

111 in and

^•do;o (if
liinds
f'lniiied
Irt, and
Icriilta-

INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND VOYAGE.

r,^.;

tions of tlio fixed stars. But, though he so sueccssfully attended to the two first artieks of
his instructions, he did not find any unknown soutliern land.

The Dutch, in 1721, fitted out three sliips to make discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean,
under the command of Admiral Koggewein. lie left the Texel on the 21st of August, and
arriving in that ocean, by going round Capo Horn, discovered Easter Island ; jirobably seen
before, though not visited by Davis* ; — then, between 14' 41' and If) 47' South latitu<U>,
and between the longitude of 142° and \C)0° West, fell in with several other islands, which
I take to be some of those seen by the late English navigators. — lie lu-xt discovered two
islands in latitude 1.^)° South, longitude I7O'' West, which he called Baumeu's islands ; — and,
lastly. Single Island, in latitude 13' 41' South, longitude I7I 30' West. — These three islands
are, undoubtedly, the same that Bougainville calls the Isles of Navigators.

In 173}{, the French East India Cfinipany sent I.ozier Bouvet with two ships, the Eagle
and Mary, to make discoveries in the South Atlantic Ocean. He sailed from Port I/Orient
on the U)th of July, in that year ; touched at the island of St. Catherine ; and from thence
shaped his course towards the S.E. On the 1st of January, 1730, he discovered land, or
what he judged to be land, in the latitude 54° South, longitude 11" East. It will appear in
the course of the following narrative, that we made several attemjits to find this land with-
out success. It is, therefore, very probable, that wliat Bouvet saw was nothing more than
a large ice-isl.and. From hence he stood to the East, in 51° of latitude, to 3')° of East
longitude : after which the two ships separated ; one going to the island of IMauritius, and
the other returning to France.

After this voyage of Bouvet, tlic spirit of discovery ceased, till his present j\rajesty formed
a design of making discoveries, and exploring the Southern Hemisphere ; and, in the year
1704, directed it to be put in execution. Accordingly, Commodore Byron, having under
his command the Dolphin and Tamer, sailed from the Downs on the 21st of June the same
year ; and having visited the Falkland Islands, passed through the Straits of JFagalliaens into
the Pacific Ocean, where he discovered the Islands of Disappointment ; George''s ; Prince of
Wales's ; the Isles of Danger ; York Island ; and Byron Island.

He returned to England the 9th of May, 170(5 ; and, in the month of August following,
the Dolphin was again sent out, under the command of Captain Wallis, with the Swallow,
commanded by Cai)tain Carteret. They proceeded together, till they came to the west end
of the Straits of IMagalhaens, and the Great South Sea in sight, where they were separated.
Captain Wallis directed his course more westerly than any navigator had done before him
iu so high a latitude ; but met with no land till he got within the tropic, where he dis-
overed the islands Whitsunday ; Queen Charlotte ; Egmont ; Duke of Gloucester ; Duke
of Cumberland ; Maitea ; Otahcite ; Eimeo ; Tapamanou ; How ; Scilly ; Boscawen ;
Kepy)el, and Wallis ; and returned to England in IMay 1708. His companion Captain
C-arterct kept a dift'erent route ; in which he discovered the islands Osnaburg ; Gloucester ;
Queen Charlotte''s Isles ; Carteret's ; Gower's ; and the Strait between New Britain and
New Ireland ; and returned to England in March 1709.

In November, 170(i, Commodore Bougainville sailed from France, in the frigate La
Boudeuse, with the store-ship L'Etoile. After spending some time on the coast of Brazil,
and at Falkland Islands, he got into the Pacific Sea, by the Straits of Bfagalhaens, in
January 1708. In this ocean he discovered the lAiur Facardines ; the Isle of Lanciers ;
and Ilarpo Island, which I take to be the same that I afterwr.rds named Lagoon ; Thrum
Caji, and Bow Island. About twenty leagues farther to the west, he discovered four other
islands ; aftervvards fell in with Maitea ; Otaheite ; Isles of Navigators ; and Forlorn Hope ;
which to him were nev,- discoveries. He then passed through between the Hebrides ;
discovered the Shoal of Diana, and some others ; the land of Cape Deliverance ; several
islands more to the north ; ])assed to the north of New Ireland ; touched at Batavia ; and
arrived in Franco in IMarch 1709.

This year was rendered remarkable by the transit of the planet Venus over the sun's disc ;
a phenomenon of great importance to astronomy ; and which everywhere engaged the
attention of the learned in that science. In the beoinninu tif ' ' ~

}••

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INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND VOYAGE,

. hi

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Society presented a memorial to his Majesty, setting forth the advantages to be derived from
accurate observations of this transit in different pivrts of the world ; particularly from a set
of such observ'tions made in a southern latitude, between the I-iOth and 180th degrees of
longitude, west from the Royal Observatory at Greenwich ; and that vessels, properly
equipped, would be necessary to convey the observers to their destined stations ; but that
the Society were in no condition to defray the expense of such an undertaking. In conse-
quence of this memorial, the Admiralty were directed by his Majesty to provide proper
vessels for tills purpose. Accordingly, the Endeavour bark, which had been built for the
coal-trade, was purchased and fitted out for the southern voyage ; and I was honoured with
the command of her. The Royal Society soon after appointed me, in conjunction with Mr.
Ciiarles Green the astronomer, to make the recpiisite observations on the transit.

It was at first intended to perform this great, and now a principal business of our voyage,
either at the Marquesas, or else at one of those islands which Tasman had called Amster-
dam, Rotterdam, and Middleburgh, now better known under the name of the Friendly
Islands. But while the Endeavour was getting ready for the expedition, Captain Wallis
returned from his voyage round the world, in tlie course of which he had discovered several
islands in the South Sea ; and amongst others, Otaheite. This island was preferred to any
of tliosc before mentioned, on account of the conveniences it afforded ; and because its place
had been well ascertained, and found to be extremely well suited to our purpose. I was
tlierefore ordered to proceed directly to Otaheite ; and, after the astronomical observations
should be completed, to prosecute the design of making discoveries in the South Pacific
Ocean, by proceeding to the south as far as the latitude of 40^ ; then, if I found no land, to
proceed to tlie west between 40° and 35°, till I fell in with New Zealand, which I was to
explore ; and thence to return to England, by such route as I should think proper.

In the prosecution of tliese instructions, I sailed from Deptford iho 30th of July, 1768;
from Plymouth the 2()th of August ; touched at Madeira, Rio de Janeiro, and Straits Le
Maire ; and entered tlie Soutli Pacific Ocean by Cape Horn, in January the following year.
I endeavoured to make a direct course to Otaheite, and in part succeeded ; but I made no
discovery till I got within the tropic, where I fell in with Lagoon Island ; Two Groups ;
Bird Island ; Chain Island ; and on the 13th of April arrived at Otaheite, where I remained
tliree montlis, during wliicli time the observations on the transit were made. I then left it ;
discovered, and visited the Society Isles, and Oheteroa ; thence proceeded to the south till I
arrived in tlie latitude of 40° 22', longitude 14/'° 29' West; and on the 6th of October fell
in with the east side of New Zealand.

I continued exploring the coast of this country till the 31st of March, 1770, when I
quitted it, and proceeded to New Holland ; and liaving surveyed the eastern coast of that
vast country, which part had not before been visited, I passed between its northern extremity
and New Guinea; lauded on the latter ; touched at the island of Savu, Batavia, the Cape
of fJood Hope, and St. Helena* ; and arrived in England on the 12th of July, 1771-

111 this voyage I was accompanied by Mr, Banks and Dr. Solander ; the first a gentleman
of ample fortune ; the otlier an accomplished disciple of Linnaeus, and one of the librarians
of the British JMuscum : both of them distinguished in the learned world for their extensive
and accurate knowledge of natural history. These gentlemen, animated by the love of
science, and by a desire to pursue tlieir inquiries in tlie remote regions I was preparing to
visit, desired permission to make the voyage with me. The Admiralty readily complied
with a request that promised such advantage to the republic of letters. They accordingly
embarked with me, and participated in all the dangers and sufferings of our tedious and
fatiguing navigation.

To illustrate this short abstract of tlie several discoveries made in the Southern Pacific,
Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, before v departure on this second voyage, now laid before
the public, I have delineated on tiie ;. -ral chart hereunto annexed the tracks of most of

* 111 tlic acrount given of St. Helena in the narrative of and they have had wheel-carriages and porters' knots for
my fmmer voyage 1 find two mistakes. Its inh.ibitants many years,
are fii- from exeici'iii;r i winton cnieltv over their slaves;

INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND VOYA(iE.

Sir

the navigators, witliout which the abstract couhl not bo so easily understood.* The voyages
of Messrs. do SurviUe, Kergueh-n, and Marion, of which some account is given in tho
foHowing work, did not come to my knowledge time enough to aftord me any advantage ;
and as they have not been communicated to the workl in a public way, I can say little about
them, or about two other voyages which, I am told, have been made by the Spaniards ; one
to Easter Island in tho year IjtJO, and the other to Otaheite in 177''^.

Before I begin my narrative of the expedition intrusted to my care, it will be necessary
to add hero some account of its equii)ment, and of some other matters, equally interesting,
connected with my subject. Soon after my return home in the Endeavour, it was resolved
to equip two ships, to complete the discovery of the Southern Hemisphere. The nature of
this voyage required ships of a ptirticular construction, and the Endeavour being gone to
Falkland Isles, as a store-ship, the Navy-board was directed to purchase two such ships as
were most suitable for this service. At this time various opinions were espoused by different
peojjle, touching the size and kind of vessels most projier for such a voynge. Some were
for having large ships ; and proposed those of forty guns, or East India Company's ships.
Others preferred large good sailing frigates, or three-decked sliips, employed in the Jamaica
trade, fitted with round-houses. But of all that was said and offered to the Admiralty's
consideration on this subject, as far as has come to my knowledge, what, in my opinion,
was most to the purpose, was suggested by the Navy- board.

As the kind of ships most proper to bo employed on discoveries is a very interestin<T con-
sideration to the adventurers in such undertakings, it may possibly be of use to those who,
in future, may be so em]iloyed, to give here the purport of the sentiments of tho Navy-board
thereon, with whom, after the experience of two voyages of tiireo years each, I ])erfi.'etly
agree. Tlie success of such undertakings as making discoveries in distant parts of tlie world
will principally depend on the preparations being well adapted to what ought to be tlie first
considerations, namely, the ])reservation of the adventurers and ships; and this will ever
chiefly depend on the kind, the size, and the properties of the ships chosen for the service.
These primary considerations will not admit of any other that may interfere with the neces-
sary properties of the ships. Therefore, in choosing the ships, shoJild any of tlic most
advantageous properties be wanting, and the necessary room in them be in .any degree
diminished, for less important purposes, such a step would be laying a foundation for render-
inor the undertaking abortive in the first instance f.

As the greatest danger to be apprehended and provided against on a voyage of discovery,
especially to tho most distant parts of the globe, is that of the ship's being liiiblo to be run
aground on an unknown desert, or, perhaps, savage coast, so no consideration should bo set
in competition witii that of her being of a construction of the safest kind, in which the
officers may, witii tlie least hazard, venture upcm a strange coast. A ship of this kind must
not be of a great draught of water, yet of a sufficient burden and capacity to carry a proper
quantity of provisions and necessaries for her complement of men, and for tlio time requi-
site to perform the voyage. She must also be of a construction that will bear to take the
ground; and of a size which, in case of necessity, may be safely and conveniently laid on
shore, to repair any accidental damage or defects. These properties are not to be found in
ships of war of forty guns, nor in frigates, nor in East India Company's ships, nor in largo
three-decked West India ships, nor indeed in any other but north-country built ships, or
such as are built for the coal-trade, which are peculiarly adapted to this purpose. In such
a vessel an able sea-officer will be most venturesome, and better enabled to fulfil his instruc-
tions, than he possibly can (or indeed than would be prudent for him to attempt) in one of
any other sort or size.

* It lias been thought better to exclude the tracks of all
other navigiitors, except Cook himself, from the general
map annexed to this edition of his voyages, to avoid the
confusion attendant on the niultiplicatina of such details.
—Ed.

t An allusion is here made to a misunderstanding which
took place between Captain Conk and Sir Joseph Batiks,
relative to the alterations judged necessary to remedy the

defects of the " Resolution," mentioned in the rommence>
mcnt of tlic first cliapter. Sir Josepli had formed tlio
determination of accompanying Captain Cook, in his
second, as in his tirst voyage, but conceiving that his con-
venience liad been unnecessarily disregarded in tho altera-
tions made in the vessel at Slieerness, under the directions
of tho captain, he took otTencc and abandoned his de-
sign, — Ed.

' ;)!

■■•■\

T. r

imr

.'!3ii

INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND VOYAGE.

Upon the whole, I am firmly of opinion, that no ships arc so proper for discoveries in
distant unknown parts ua those constructed an was the Endeavour, in which I performed
my former voyage. For no ships of any other kind can contain stores and provisions
sufficient (in proportion to the necessary number of men), considering tlie lengtli of time it
will bo necessary they should last. And, even if another kind of ships could stow a suffi-
ciency, yet, on arriving at the parts for discovery, they woiild still, from the nature of their
construction and size, bo less fit for the purpose. Hence, it may be concluded, so little
progress had been hitherto made in discoveries in the southern hemisphere. For all ships
which attempted it before the Endeavour were unfit for it, although the officers employed in
them had done the utmost in their power.

It was upon these considerations that the Endeavour was chosen for that voyage. It
was to these properties in her that those on board owed their preservation ; and hence wo
were enabled to prosecute discoveries in those seas so much longer than any other ship ever
did or could do. And, althougli discovery was not the first oliject of that voyage, I could
venture to traverse a far greater space of sea, till then unnavigated, to discover greater tracts
of country in high and low south latitudes, and to persevere longer in exploring and survey-
ing more correctly the extensive coasts of those now-discovered countries, than any former
njivigator, perhaps, had done during one voyage. In short, these properties in the ships,
with perseverance and resolution in their commanders, will enable them to execute their
orders ; to go beyond former discoverers ; and continue to Dritain the reputation of taking
the lead of all nations in exploring tlm globe.

Tlicso considerations concurring with Lord Sandwich's opinion on tlic same subject, the
Admiralty determined to have two such ships as are here recommended. Accordingly, two
were purchased of Ca])tain William Hammond of Hull. They were both built at Wliitby,
by the same person who built the Endeavour, being about fourteen or sixteen mouths old
at the time they were purchased, and were, in my opinion, as well adapted to the intended
service as if they had been built for the purpose. The largest of the two was four hundred
and sixty-two tons burthen. She was named Resolution, and sent to Deptford to be
equipped. The other was three hundred and thirty-six tons burthen. Sho was named
Adventure, and sent to be equii>pod at Woolwich.

It was first proposed to sheath them with copper ; but, on considering that copper
corrodes the iron-work, especially about the rudder, this intention was laid aside, and the
old method of sheathing and fitting pursued, as being the most secure ; for, although it is
usual to make the rudder-bands of the same composition, it is not, however, so dural)le us
iron, nor would it, I am well assured, last out such a voyage as the Resolution performed.
Therefore, till a remedy is found to prevent the eftect of copper upon the iron-work, it
would not be advisable to use it on a voyage of this kind, as the principal fastenings of the
ship being iron, they may be destroyed.*

On the 28tli of November, 1771 > I was appointed to the command of the Resolution;
and Tobias Furnciiux (who had been second lieutenant with Captain Wallis) was promoted,
on this occasion, to the command of the Adventure.

I had all the reason in the world to be perfectly satisfied with the choice of the officers.
The second and third lieutenants, the lieutenant of marines, two of the warrant offi ■ . -d

'!|i'

• Notwithstanding the strong opinion licre expressed by
Captain Cook, coppcr-slieatliing has now for a Utug period
been in use, not only in our navy, but in our merchant
seivicc, even on loccasions of the longest and most arduous
service ; upon surveys of the stormy coasts of South
An'Prica, which, under the direction of Captains King and
iifroy, extended on one occasion for four, and another
for five years, and in all recent voyages of discovery,
(except those whose destination has been to force their
passMje through tlic fields of arctic and antarctic icebergs,)
and in our merchant service, when vessels are fiequeiitly
three and four years, and even longer away, witli very
imperfect opportunities of refitting, copper-sheathing and
fastening are constantly made use of.

Captain Cook's estimate of the relative strt th and
durability of iron and copper rudder-bands, was, .vevcr,
perfectly correct, but experience has since sho .1 that
copper bands, although not equal to iron, can still be
manufacriircd of siiHicicnt strength to rvs^nin perfectly
serviceable during the whole period in whicii a vessel will
continue fit to keep the sea, without damage from other
causes. When Captain Cook wrote, this fact had not been
sufficiently tested, for no vessel in the British navy wag
copper-slieathed before 1761, when the experiment was
tried upon the " Alarm" frigate. Tlie result was so favour-
aide that the practice was strongly recommended, and at
the close of the American war (of Independence) it was
generally adopted. — Ed.

INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND VOYAGE.

980

several of the petty officers, had been with mo during tho former voyage. Tlio others wore
men of known abilities ; and all of them, on every occa.sion, showed their zeal for tho aervico
in which they were employed, during tho whole voyage.

Our complements of ofliccrs and men were fixed, as in tho following table : —

RKSor.UTIO.V.

ADVKNTlTRi:.

OFFICF.HS AND
MEN.

No.

orriCKHs' NAMFS.

No.
1

orriccRs' namrs.

Captain

James Cook.

Tobias Furneaux.

Licutcnanta

Robert P. Cooper,
Cliarles Clarke.
Ricliard Pickcrsgill.

Joscpb Sliank.
Arthur Kenipo.

Master

Josepli Gilbert.

Peter Fannin.

Roatswain

James Gray.

Kdward Jolins.

Carpenler

James Wallis.

William Ollord.

Gunner

Robert Anderson.

Andrew Gloag.

Snrgcon

James Patten.

Thomas Andrews.

Master's Mates

Midiliipmen

Surgeon's Mates

Captain's Clerk

Master at Arms

Corporal

Armourer

Ditto Mate

Sail Maker

Ditto Mate

Boatswain's Mates

•

Carpenter's Ditto

Gunner's Ditto

Carpenter's Crew

Cook

Ditto Mate

Quarter Masters

Able Seamen

Marines.

Lieutenant

Jolm Edgcumbo.

James Scott.

Serjeant

Corporals

Drummer

Privates

Total

112

1 !

|L th and

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ko .1 that
In still be
perfectly
[vessel will
rom otlitr
not been
navy was
iment was
J 60 favour-
lid, and at
Ire) it was

In the equipping of these ships, they were not confined to ordinary establishments, bnt
were fitted in the most complete manner, and supplied with every extra article that was
suggested to be necessary. Lord Sandwich paid an extraordinary attention to this equip-
ment, by visiting the ships from time to time, to satisfy himself that the whole was com-
pleted to his wisli, and to the satisfaction of those who were to embark in them. Nor were
the Navy and Victualling Boards wanting in providing them with the very best of stores
and provisions, and whatever else was necessary for so long a voyage. Some alterations
were adopted in the species of provisions usually made use of in the navy. That is, we were
supplied with wheat in lieu of so much oatmeal, and sugar in lieu of so much oil ; and when
completed, each ship had two years and a half provisions on board, of all species.

We had, besides, many extra articles, such as malt, sour-krout, salted cabbage, portable
broth, fa! )i«p, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and inspissated juice of wort and beer. Some
of thei e artit)>s had before been found to be highly antiscorbutic ; and others were now sent
out on ♦rial, ,r by way of experiment ; — the inspissated juice of beer and wort, and marma-
lade of ( aiToti- especially. — As several of these antiscorbutic articles are not generally known,
a more particular account of them may not be amiss.

Of malt is made street wort, which is given to such persons as have got the scurvy, or
whose habit of body threatens them with it, from one to five or six pints a day, as the

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310

INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND VOYAGE.

surgeon sees necessary. Sour-krout, is cabbage cut small, to which is put n little salt,
juniper- berries, and annis-secds ; it is then fermented, and afterwards close packed m casks :
in which state it will keep good a long time. This is a wholesome vegetable food, and a
great antiscorbutic. The allowance to each man is two poimds a week, but I increased or
diminished their allowance as I thouglit proper. Salted cabbage is cabbage cut to pieces,
and salted down in casks, which will preserve it a long time. Portable broth is so well
known, that it needs no description. We were supplied with it both for the sick and well,
and it was exceedingly beneficial. Saloup, and rob of lemons and oranges, were for the sick
and scorbutic only, and wholly under the surgeon's care. Marmalade of carrots is the juice
of yellow carrots inspissated till it is of the thickness of fluid honey, or treacle, which last it
resembles both in taste and colour. It was recommended by Baron Storsch, of Berlin, as a
very great antiscorbutic ; but we did not find that it had much of this quality.

For the inspissated juice of wort and beer, we were indebted to Mr. Pelham, secretary to
the commissioners of the Victualling-oflice. This gentleman, some years ago, considered that
if the juice of malt, either as beer or wort, was inspissated by evaporation, it was probable
this inspissated juice would keep good at sea ; and if so, a supply of beer might be had at
any time, by mixing it with water. Mr. Pelham made several experiments, which suc-
ceeded so well, that tlie commissioners caused thirty-one half-barrels of this juice to be
prepared, and sent out with our ships for trial ; nineteen on board the Resolution, and the
remainder on board the Adventure. The success of the experiments will be mentioned in
the narrative, i.i the order they were made.

The frame of a small vessel, twenty tons burthen, was properly prepared, and put on
board each of the ships, tf) be set up, (if found necessary,) to serve as tenders upon any
emergency, or to transport the crew in case the ship was lost. We were also well provided
with fishing-nets, lines, and hooks of every kind for catching offish. And, in order to enable
us to procure refreshments in such inhabited parts of the world as we might touch r.t, where
money was of no value, the Admiralty caused to be put on board both the ships, several
articles of merchandize ; as well to trade with the natives for provisions, as to make them
presents to gain their friendship and esteem. Their Lordships also caused a number of
medals to bo struck, the one side representing His Majesty, and the other the two ships.
Tliese medals were to be given to the natives of new-discovered countries, and left there, as
testimonies of our being the first discoverers.

Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was put on board ; to be given to the
seamen whenever it was thought necessary. In short, nothing was wanting that could tend
to promote the success of the undertaking, or contribute to the conveniences and health of
those who embarked in it.

The Admiralty showed no less attention to science in general, by engJiging Mr. William
Ilodgcs, a landscape painter, to embark in this voyage, in order to make drawings and
])aintings of such places, in the countries we should touch at, as might be proper to give a
more perfect idea thereof than could be formed from written descriptions only. And it being
thought of public utility, that some persons skilled in natural history should be engaged to
accompany me in this voyage, the parliament granted an ample sum for that purpose, and
Mr. John Reinhold Forster, with his son, were pitched upon for this employment.

The Board of Longitude agreed with Mr. William Wales, and Mr. William Bayley, to
make astronomical observations ; the former on board the Resolution, the latter on board the
Adventure. The great improvements which astronomy and navigation have met with from
the many interesting observations they have made, would have done honour to -xny person
whose reputation for mathematical knowledge was not so well known as theirs. The same
Board furnished them with the best of instruments, for making both astronomical and nautical
observations and experiments ; and likewise with four time-pieces, or watch machines ; three
made by Mr. Arnold, and one made by Mr. Ken(i.il on Mr. Harrison's principles. A par-
ticular account of the going of these watches, as also the astronomical and nautical observa-
tions made by the astronomers, will be laid before the public by order of the Board of
Longitude, under the inspection of Mr. Wales.

Besides the obligations I was under to this gentleman for communicating to me the

INTHODUCTIOX TO THE SECOND VOYAGE.

841

ttle salt,
n casks :
>d, and a
rcased or
9 pieces,
i 90 well
ind well,
the sick
the juice
ch last it
rlin, as a

retary to
cred that
prohablo
be had at
liich suc-
ice to bo
, and the
itioned in

d put on
upon any
I provided
• to enable
r.t, wlierc
is, several
lake them
lumber of
two ships.
t there, as

observations ho made, from time to time, during the voyage, I have since been indebted to
him for tlie perusal of his journal, with leave to take from it whatever I thought might
contribute to the improvement of this work. For the convenience of the generality of
readers, I have reduced tlie time from the nautical to the civil computation, so that whenever
the terms a. m. and p. m. are used, the former !<igniiies the foienoon, and tlic latter the after-
noon of the same day. In all the courses, bearings, &c. the variation of the compass is
allowed, unless the contrary is expressed.

And now it may be necessary to say, that, as I am on the point of sailing on a third
expedition, I leave this account of my last voyage in the hands of some friends, who in my
absence have kindly accepted the office of correcting the press for me ; who are pleased to
think, that what I have here to relate is better to be given in my own words, than in the
words of another person, especially as it is a work designed for information and not merely
for amusement ; in which it is their opinion, that candour and fidelity will counterbalance
the want of ornament.

I shall, therefore, conclude this introductory discourse with desiring the reader to excuse
the inaccuracies of style, which doubtless he will frequently meet with in the following
narrative ; and that, when such occur, he will recollect that it is the production of a man who
has not had the advantage of much school education, but who has been constantly at sea
from his youth ; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, he has passed through
all the stations belonging to a seaman, from an apprentice boy in the coal trade, to a ])ost
captain in the Royal Navy, he has had no opportunity of cultivating letters. After this
account of myself, the public must not expect from me the elegance of a fine writer, or the
plausibility of a professed book-maker ; but will, I hope, consider me as a plain man, zea-
lously exerting himself in the service of hia country, and determined to give the best account
he is able of his proceedings.

Plymouth Soiijil,
July 7, 1776.

ven to the
ould tend
health of

. William
ivings and
r to give a
id it being
■ngaged to
rpose, and

3ayley, to
board the
with from
ny person
The same
id nautical
ncs ; three
A par-
,1 obscrva-
Doard of

i »■

to me the

! f

VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND

THE WORLD.

In 1772, 1773, 1774, AND 1775.

BOOK I.

KROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM EXOLANI) TO LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLES, THE

FIRST TIME.

CHAPTER 1. PASSAGE FROM DEPTFORD TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, WITH AN AfCODNT

OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED' UV THE WAY, AND TRANSACTIONS THEItE.

I SAILED from Doptford, April 9tli, 1772, but got no farther than Woolwich ; where I
was detained by easterly winds till the 22nd, when the ship fell down to L(in<j Reach, and
the next day was joined by the Adventure. Here both shijjs received on board tiieir powder,
guns, gunner's stores, and marines.

On the lOtli of May, we left Long Reach with orders to touch at Plymouth ; but in
plying down the river, the Resolution was found to be very crank, which made it iwjccssary
to put into Sheerness, in order to remove this evil, by making some alterations in her upper
works. These the officers of the yard were ordered to take in hand immediately; and J^ord
Sandwich and Sir IIu<;h Pallisor came down to see them executed in such a manner as nii^ht
eft'ectually answer the purpose intended.

On the 22nd of June the ship was again completed for sea, when I sailed from Sheerness;
and on the Jird of July, joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. The evening before wo
met oiF the Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the Augusta yacht (who was on his return from
visiting the several dockyards), with the Glory frigate and Hazard sloop. We saluted his
lordship with seventeen guns ; and soon after he and Sir Hugh Pailiser gave us the last
mark of the very great attention they bad paid to this equipment, by coming on board, to
satisfy themselves that everything was done to my wish, and that the ship was found to
answer to my satisfaction.

At Plymouth I received n>y instrnctions, dated the 25th of June, directing mo to take
under my command the Adventure ; to make the best of my way to the island of Madeira,
there to take in a supply of wine, and then proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, where I was
to refresh the ships' companies, and take on board such provisions and necessaries as I might
stand in need of. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, I was to procee'' to the southward,
and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcision, which was said by Aiunsieur Bouvet to
lie in the latitude of i>4° south, and in about 11° 20' cast longitude from Greenwich *. If
I discovered this cape, I was to satisfy myself whether it was a i)art of the continent, which
had so much engaged the attention of geographers and former navigators, or a part of an
island. If it proved to be the former, I was to employ myself diligently in ex|)loring as
great an extent 01 it us I could ; and to make such notations thereon, and observations of

* Sec furtlicr as to tliia supposed discovery in the Introduction to the Tliird Voyage — Ed.

n'n

444

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jim-, 177-'.

every kind, as might bo useful eitluT to navigation or commerce, or tend to tlie promotion
«if natural knowledge. I 'vas alno directed to observe the genius, temi>er, disposition, and
number of the inliabitauts, if there were any, and endeavour, by all j.roper mean!<, to
cultivate a friendship and alliance with them ; making them ]>rei^ents of such things as they
might value ; inviting them to traffic, and showing them every kind of civility and regard.
I was to continue to employ myself on this service, and making discoveries, either to the
eastward or westward, as my situation might rendei most eligible ; keeping in aa high a
latitude as I could, and prosecuting my discoveries as near to the South Pole as possible, so
long as tho condition of the ships, the health of their crews, and the state of their provisions,
would admit of; taking care to reserve as much of the latter as would enable me to reach
some known port, where I was to procure a sufficiency to bring me home to England. Uut
if Cape Circumcision should prove to be part of an island only, or if I should not be able to
find the said cape, I was, in the first case, to make the necessary survey of the island, and
then to stand on to the southward, so long as I judged there was a likelihood of fiilling in
with the continent ; which I was also to do in the latter • ase ; and then to proceed t<» the
eastward, in further search of the said continent, as well as to make discoveries of such
islands as might be situated in that unexplored part of the southeni hemisphere ; keeping
in high latitudes, and prosecuting my discoveries as above-mentioned, iis near the Pole as
possible, r.ntil I had circumnavigated the globe ; after which I was to proceed to the Cape of
Good Hope, and from thence to Spithead.

In the prosecution of these discoveries, whenever the season of the year rendered it unsafe for
me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire to some known place to the northward, to
refresh my people, and refit the ships ; and to return again to tlie soutliward, as soon as the
.season of the year would admit of it. In all unforeseen cases, I was authorised to proceed
according to my own discretion ; and in case the Resolution should be lost or disabled, I
was to prosecute the voyage on board the Adventure. I gave a copy of these instructions
to Captain Furneaux, with an order directing him to carry them into execution ; and in
case he was separated from me, appointed tlie island of ^ladeira fer the first place of rendez-
vous. Port Praya in the island of tJt. Jago fur the second, Capo of Good Hope for tho third,
and New Zealand for the fourth.

During our stay at Plynioutii, i^Icssieurs "Wales and Bayley, the two astronomers, made
observations on Drake's Island, in order to ascertain the latitude, longitude, and true time
for putting the time-pieces or watches in motion. 'I he latitude was found to be 50^ 21' 3(>"
north ; and the longitude 4° 20' west of (Jreenwich, which, in this voyage, is everywhere
to be understood as the first meridian, and from which the longitude is reckoned east and
west to 18(r each way. On the lOth of July, the watclies were set a-going in the presence
of the two astronomers.. Captain Furneaux, the first lieutenants of the ships, and myself,
and put on board. The two on board the Adventure were made by 3Ir. Arnold, and also
one of those on board the Resolution ; but the other was made by Mr. Kendal, upon the
same principle, in every respect, as Mr. Harrison's time-piece. The commander, first
lieutenant, and astronomer, on board each of the shi|>s, kept each of them keys of the boxes
which contained the watches, and were always to be present at the winding them up, and
comparing the one with the other ; or some other officer, if, at any time, through indispo-
sition, or aliscnco upon any other necessary duties, any of them could n(.l conveniently
attend. The same day, according to the custom of the navy, the com])anies of both ships
were paid two months^ wages in advance ; and as a further encouragement for their going
this extraordinary voyage, tliey were also paid the wages due to them to the 2yth of the
preceding May. This enabled them to provide necessaries for the voyage.

On the l;kh, at six o'clock in the morning, I sailed from Plymoutii Sound, with the
Adventure in company; and on the evening of the 2J>th, anchored in Funchal Road, in tho
island of Madeira. The next morning I saluted the garrison with eleven guns; which
compliment was immediately r jturned. Soon after I went on shore, accompanied by Capt.
Furneaux, the two Mr. Forsters, and Mr. Wales. At our landing we were received by
a gentleman from the vice-consul, Mr. Sills, who conducted us to the house of Mr. Lough-
nans, the most considerable English merchant in the place. This gentleman not only

Jn.v, 11

COOK'S SKC'ONI) VOYAGE UOCND THE WORLD.

.1.1.5

ulitaiiu'd leave for Mr. Forstt-r to suarch tlie i!<Iand for plants, but procured ua every
otiier tiling vvc wanted, and in^^isted on our aecunnuodating ourselves at liis house during
our stay.

Tlie town of Funclial, wliieli is the capital of the island, is situated about the middle of
the south siile, in the bottom of the bay of the s.ime nanu', in Iatitu<le .T2' 'V.V IW north,
longitude 17" 12],' wewt. The longitude was deduced from lunar observations niatle by
Mr. Wales, and reduced to the town by Mr. Kendal's watuh, whicli made the longitude
17" W 14" west. During o»ir stay here, the crews of both ships were sui)plied with
fresh beef and onions; and a quantity of the latter was distributed amongst them for
a sea store.

Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, we left Madeira on
the 1st of August, ami st<tod to the southward, with a fine gale at N.K. On the 4tli we
passed Palma, one of the Canary Isles. It is of a heiglit to be seen twelve or fourteen
leagues, and lies in the latitude 28" IW north, longitude 17" ;"»}{' west. The next day we
saw the isle of Ferro and passed it at the distance of fourteen leagues. I jutlged it to lie
in the latitude 27" 42' north, and longitude 18" 9' west.

I now made three puncheons of beer, of the inspissated juice of malt. The proportion
I made use of was about ten of water to one of juice. Fifteen of the ninetei^n half-barrels
of the inspissated juice which we had on board were produced from wort that was hoppe(l
hefor*' ins])issated. The other four were made of beer that had been both hoj>ped ar.d
fermented before ins|)issated. This last requires no other preparation to make it fit for
use, than to mix it with cold water, from one jiart in eight, to one part in twelve of water
(or in such other proportion as might be liked), then stop it down ; and in a few days it
will be brisk, and drinkable. Hut the other sort, after being mixed with water in the same
manner, will require to be fermented with //cagt, in the usual way of making beer ; at least
it was so thought. However, exi>erience taught us that this will not always be necessary.
For by the heat of the weather and the agitation of the shiji, both sorts were at tliis time
in the highest state of fernuintation, and had hitherto evaded all our endeavours to s^op
it. If this juice could be kept from fermenting, it certainly would be a most valuable
article at sea.

On finding that our stock of water would not last us to the Cape of Good Hope, without
putting the people to a scanty allow-ince, I resolved to stop at St. Jago for a sui)])ly. On
the l)th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we made the island of Bouavista, bearing S.W.
The next day we passed the island of Mayo on our right ; and the same evening anchored
in Port Praya, in the island of St. Jago, in eighteen fathom water. The east point of the
bay bore east; the west point S.W, ^ S., and the fort N.W. I immediately despatched an
officer to ask leave to water, and purchase refreshments ; which was granted. On the
return of the officer I saluted the fort with eleven guns, on a promise of its being returned
with an equal number. But by a mistake, as they pretended, the salute was returned with
oidy nine ; for which the governor made an excuse the next day. The 14th, in the evening,
having completed our water, and got on board a su])ply of refreshments ; such as hogs,
goats, fowls, and fruit ; we put to sea, and proceeded on our voyage.

Port Praya is a small bay, situated about the middle of the south side of the island of
St. Jago, in the latitude of 14° 5IV 30' north, longitude 2,'P SCy west. It may be known,
especially in coming from the east, by the southernmost hill on the island ; which is round,
and peaked at top ; and lies a little way inland, in the direction of v.'est from the port.
This mark is the more necesSiiry, as there is a small cove about a league to the eastward,
with a sandy beach in the bottom of it, a valley and cocoa-nut trees behind, which strangers
may mistake for Port Praya, as we ourselves did. The two points which form the entrance
of Port Praya Bay, are rather low, and in the direction of W.S.W. and E.N.E. half a league
from each other. Close to the west point are sunken rocks, on which the sea continually
breaks. The bay lies in N.W. near half a league ; and the depth of water is from fourteen
to four fathoms. Largo ships ought not to anchor in less than eight, in which dei)th the
south end of the Green Island (a small island lying under the west shore) will bear west.
You water at a well that is behind tho beach at the head of the bay. The water is tolerable,

!(! ' ■ 1

■ till

840

COOK'S SE(OM) VOYA<JK IIOI'M) THE UOIIM).

A 1. 1. 1V7:

, !

! : »

but scarce, and bail petting off, on account of a great surf on tlie hoacli. Tlio riTrcalinicntfi
to '*w got licru arc, Imllocks, lioga, goats, 8licc|i, ]ioiiltry, ami fruits*. Tlic goats are of tlio
antcl()|iu kin<l, ho extraordinary lean, tliat hardly anytliing can equal tiieni ; and tlio
bullocks, liog», and sliec]) arc not niucli better. Itiillocks niiii't be piircliased with money ;
the jiricc is twelve Spanish didlars a head, weighing between 'JoO and .'MH> pounds. Other
articles may bo got from the natives in exchange for old clothes, \-c. lh\t the sale of
bullocks is confined to a company of merchants, to whom tli'-^ privilege it granted, and who
keep an agent residing upon the spot. The fort above-meiitiorcd seems wholly dcsigneil for
the protection of the bay, and is well situated for that purpose, being built on an c!evati(m,
which rises directly from the sea on the right, at the head of ihc bay.

We had no sooner got clear of Port I'raya, than we got a fresh gale at N.X.K. which
blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain, but the next day the wind and showers
abated, and veered to the south. It was, however, variable and unsettled for several days,
accompanied with dark, gloomy weather, and showers of rain. On the ISHh, in the after-
noon, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboanl, and was dntwncd. He was over the side,
fitting in one of the scuttles, from whence, it was sup|)oscd, he had fallen : for he was not
seen till the very instant lie sunk >inder the ship's stern, when our endeavours to save him
were too late. This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was a sober man and a
good workman. About noon the next day the rain poured down upon us not in drops, but
in streams. The wind, at the same time, was variable, and squally, which obliged tho
people to attend the decks, so that few in the ships escaped a gooil soaking. We, however,
benefited by it, as it gave us an opportunity of filling all our eni]>ty water-casks. This
lieavy rain at last brought on a dead calm, wliicli continued twenty-four hours, when it was
succeeded by a breeze from S.W. IJctwixt this j)oint and south it continued for several
days, and blew, at times, in squalls, attended with rain and hot sultry weather. Tho
mercury in the thermometers, at noon, kept generally from "Ji) to ll'2.

On the 27th, spake with Captain Furneaux, who informed us that one of his petty
officers was dead. At this time ire had not one sick on board ; although wc had every-
thing of this kind to fear from the rain we had had, which is a great promoter of sickness in
hot climates. To prevent this, and agreeable to some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliaer,
and from Captain Campbell, I took every necessary precaution, by airing and drying tho
ship with fires made betwixt decks, smoking, &c., and by obliging the people to air their
bedding, wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was an oj)j)ortunity. A neglect of
these things causeth a disagreeable smell below, affects the air, and seldonj fails to bring on
sickness ; but more esj)ecially in hot and wet weather.

We now began to see some of those birds which are said never to fly far from land ; that
is, man-of-war and tropic birds, gannets, iS:c. No land, however, that wc knew of, c( uld
be nearer than eighty leagues.

On the ,3()tli, at noon, being in tho latitude of 2" l^y north, longitude 7° ^'>' west, and the
wind having veered to the east of south, we tacked and stretched to the S.W. In tho
latitude of 0" o2 north, longitude !)" 25' west, we had one calm day, which gave us an
ojjportunity of trying the current in a boat. We found it set to the north one-thinl of a
mile an hour. We had rcison to expect this from the difference wo frecpuntly found
between the observed latitude and that given by the log : and Mr. Kendal's watch showed
us, that it set to the east also. This was fully confirmed by the lunar observations ; when
it appeared that we were ',i° more to the east than the common reck<ming. At the time of
trying the current, the mercury in the thermometer, in the open air, stood at 7'H ; and
when iinnicrged in the surface of the sea, at 74 : but when immerged eighty fathoms deep
(where it remained fifteen minutes), when it came up, the mercury stood at (iO. At tho
same time we sounded, without finding bottom with a line of two hundred and fifty fathoms.

The calm was succeeded by a light breeze at S.W., which ke])t veering by little and
little to the south, and at last to the eastward of south, attended with clear, serene weather.
At length, on the JUli of September, we crossed the line in the longitude of ii° west ; after
which the ceremony of ducking, &c., generally practised on this occasion, was not omitted.

Tho wind now veering more and more to the east, and blowing a gentle top-gallant gale,

Skpt. 1772.

(OOK'S SKtONL) VOVACiK KOUND TIIK WOULD.

:m7

in t'iglit daya it i-arricil us into tlic latitiule of J)' IM>' soiilli, longitude Uf west. Tlie wuutliiT
was iilcasant ; and wo daily saw sonic of tlios*; birds, wliicli an; looked upon as signs of tlio
vicinity of land ; such as lir)ol»ies, nu-n-of- war, trojiic birds, and gaiimts. Wo suitpoxcd tliry
canjc fronj tlic Isle of St. ^lattliew, or Ascension ; wliicli isles wc must liavc |)asscd at no
great distance.

On tlie tJ7tIi, in t'lie latitude of 2;V '2\)\ longitude 24" ,'t4\ wc discovered a sail to the west,
standing after us. Slie was a snow ; and tlie colours she showeil, either a I'ortuguese or
St. ( Jeorge's ensign, the distance being too great to distinguish the one from the other ; antl I did
not choose to wait to get nearer, or to speak with her. The wind now began to be variable.
It first veered to the north, where it remained two days with fair weather. Afterwards it
came round by the west to the south, where it remained two days longer, and after a few
hours' calm, sprang up at S.W. But here it remained not long before it veered to E.S.lv,
and to the north of cast ; blew fresh, and by squalls, with showers of rain.

With these winds we advanced but slowly, and without meeting with anything remarkable
till the 11th of October, when at (»'' 24"' 12% by Mr. Kendal's watch, the moon roso
about four digits eclipsed ; and soon after wc prepared to observe the end of the eclipse, as
follows, viz : —

II.

By mo at ...

51 witli a couiiuon rcfra

By Mr. Forstcr . .

t<5

2.<

By .Mr. Ualis . .

57 qiiadmiit telcsrojio.

By Mr. PiikiisgiU .

5.5

30 tlircc feet ri'tVaolor.

By .Mr. Gilbert . .

24 iiakcil eye.

By Mr. Hcrvoy . .

34 (luaUi-aut telescope.

Mciii ....

401 Ijy tlic Wttteli.

Watch »li)w of

apparent tiiiic -

App.ircnt time . .

45J end of llie eriipsp.

Ditto

U at (ircciiwieli.

Dif. of longitude . . 2ti \i^ —
Tlic longitude observed by .Mr. Wales was, —
By the D and o. AquilR! 5" 51' » .,
By the 3) and Aldebaran G 35 J •"^"'
By .Mr. Keudul's watch

C" ;i3' 31)"

G 13
(i 53|

The next morning, having but little wind, we hoisted a boat out, to try if there was any
current, but found none. Frt)m this time to the KJtIi, we had the wind between the north
and east, a gentle gale. We had for some time ceased to see any of the birds before-men-
tioned ; and were now accompanied by albatrosses, pintadoes, sheerwaters, &c., and a small
grey peterel, less than a pigeon. It has a whitish belly, and grey back, with a black stroke
across from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. These birds sometimes visited us in
great flights. They arc, as well as the pintadoes, southern birds ; and are, I believe, never
seen within the tropics, or north of the line.

On the 17th, we saw a sail to the N.W. standing to the eastward, which hoisted Dutch
colours. She kept us company for two days, but the third we outsailed her. On the 21st,
at 7'' 30'" 20' A. M., our longitude, by the mean of two observed distances of the .sun and
moon, was 8° 4' 30" east ; Mr. Kendal's watch at the same time gave 7" 22'. Our latitude
was 35' 20' south. The wind was now easterly, and continued so till the 23d, when it
veered to N. and N.W. after stnne hours' calm ; in which we put a boat in the water, and
Mr. Forster shot some albatrosses and other birds, on which wc feasted the next day, and
found them exceedingly good. At the same time wc saw a sdal, or, as some thought, a
sea-lion, which probably might be an inhabitant of one of the isles of Tristian tie Cunha,
being now nearly in their latitude, and about 5° east of them.

The wind continued but two days at N.W. and S.W., then veered to the S.E., where it
remained two days longer, then fixed at N.W., which carried us to our intended port. As
we approached the land, the sea-fowl, which had accompanied us hitherto, began to leave
us — at least they did not come in such numbers ; nor did wo sco gannets, or the black bird

s' I

34R

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE IK)[JNU THE WOULD.

Oct. 1772.

I'i

commonly called tin* C.ipc hen, till wo were nearly witliin siglit of tlio Cij|)e ; nor did wo
strike sounding till I'enpuin Ittland bore N.N. 10. distant two or tiiree leajjiies, where we liad
fifty fathom water. Not hut that the 8oundin;;s may extend farllier ott". However, I am
very Hiiri' that they do not extend vi-ry far west from the Cape ; for we could not find
ground with a line of 2I(> fatlionis, 2'> leagm-8 wci^t of Tahle Itay ; tlie same at <)■*> leagues,
and at (>4 leagues. I Hounded these three times, in order to lind a hank which, I liad been
told, lies to the west of the Cape ; hut how far I never could learn.

I was told, before I left England, by some gentlemen who were well enough acquainted
with the navigation between England and the Ca])c of (jood Hope, that I sailed at an
improper season of the year, and that I should meet with nuich calm weather near and
under the line. This probably may bo the ease some years ; it is, however, not general ;
on the contrary, we hardly met with any calms ; but a brisk S.W. wind in those very
latitudes where the calms are expected. Nor did wo meet with any of those tornadoes, eo
much spoken of by other navigators. However, what they have said of the current setting
towards the coast of (iuinea, as you approach that shore, is true ; for, from the time of our
leaving St. Jago to our arrival into the latitude of IJ^ north, which was eleven days, wo
were carried by the current U" of longitude more east than our reckoning. On the other
hand, after wc had crossed the line, and got the S.E. trade wind, wo always found, by
observation, that the ship outstrijij)e(l the reckoning, whicii we judged to be owing to a
current setting between the south and west. IJut, upon the whole, the currents in this run
seemed to balance each other ; for, upon our arrival at the Caj)e, the difterenee of longitude
by dead reckoning kept from England, without once being corrected, was only three quarters
of a degree less than that by observation.

At two in the afternoon, on the 29tli, we made the land of the Cape of fJood Hope.
The Table Mountain, which is over the Cape Town, bore E. S. E. distance 12 or 14 leagues.
At this time it was a good deal obscured by clouds, otherwise it might, from its height,
have been seen at a nuicli greater distance. Wc now crowded all the sail we could, think-
ing to get into the bay before dark. But when we found this could not be accomplished,
■•••<• bortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on. Between eight and nine o'clock,
hole sea, within the compass of our sight, became at once, as it were, illuminated ; or,
die seamen call, all on fire. This appearance of the sea, in some degree, is very com-
mon ; but the cause is not so generally known. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had satisfied
nie that it was occasioned by sea insects. IMr. Forster, however, seemed not to favour this
opinion. I therefore had some buckets of water drawn uj) from along-side the ship, which
we found full of an innumerable quantity of small globular insects, about the size of a com-
mon pin's head, and quite transparent. There was no doubt of their being living animals,
when in their own proper element, though we could not jjcrceive any life in them : Mr.
Forster, whose province it is more minutely to describe things of this nature, was now well
satisfied with the cause of the sea's illumination.

At length daylight came, and brought us fair weather; and having stood into Table Bay,
with the Adventure in company, wc anchored in five fathom water. We afterwards moored
N.E. and S.W. ; Green Point, on the west point of the bay, bearing N.W. by W. ; and
the church, in one with the valley between the "I'able Mountain and the Sugar-Loaf or Lion's
Head, bearing S.W. by S., and distant from the landing-place, near the fort, one mile.

AVc had no sooner anchored than wc were visited by the Captain of the port, or Master
Attendant, some other officers belonging to the Company, and Mr. Brandt. This last
gentleman brought us off such things as could not fail of being acce])table to persons coming
from sea. The purport of the Master Attendant's visit was, according to custom, to take
an account of tho sliips ; to inquire into the health of the crews ; and, in particular, if the
small-pox was on board ; a thing they dread, above all others, at tho Cape, and for these
purposes a surgeon is always one of the visitants.

]My first stop, after anchoring, was to send an officer to wait on Baron Plettenbcrg, tho
governor, to acquaint him with our arrival, and the reasons whicli induced mc to put in
there. To this the officer received a very polite answer ; and, upon his return, we saluted
the garrison with eleven guns, which compliment was returned. Soon after, I went on

Oct. 1772.

lor did wo
LTD wo )iad
I'VtT, I mil
I lint find

\'t lcilglU'8,

had bt-eii

icquniiit(;d
ik'd iit an
near and
t gt'noral ;
lliose very
•nadoc'8, po
.•nt m'tting
iino uf our
I days, wo
I tliu utlu>r
found, by
wing to a
in tliiM run
■ longitude
.'c quarters

ood Hope.
14 leagues,
its height,
lid, thiiik-
[)ni])lished,
nc o'clock,
lated ; or,
very coin-
d Siitisfied
"avour this
lip, which

of a coni-
g animals,

lem : Mr.

now well

'able Bay,
ds moored

AV. ; and
f or Lion's
mile,
or JMastcr

This last
ns coining
n, to take
liar, if the
I for these

nberg, the
I to put in
Kc saluted
I went on

N..V. 1772.

COOK'S SKCONH VOY.XOK IlOfNI) TIIK M'ORI.D.

.14!)

shore myself, and wnite<l upon the governor, aeeon'panied by (.'aptuiii I'linieaiix, and Mio
two Mr. l-'orsters. He reecivcil \\h with gnat jiolitincM', and jiromi^ted me every asfij<taiicc
the plaee could alVoid. Fmiii him I learned that two French Hliijis from tlie Mauritius,
about eight months before, hail difcovered land, in the latitude of 4U south, and in the
meridian of that i^'Iand, along which they saileil forty miles, till they eaine to a bay into
which they were about to eiitrr, when they were driven oil' and separated in a hard gale of
wind, jifter having bmt some of their boats and people, which they had sent to hoiiikI tlie
bay. One of the ships, viz. the La Fortune, soon after arrived at the .Mauritius, the captain
of which was sent home to France with an account of the discovery. The governor also
informed me, that in >Alarcli last two other French sliips from the Island of .Mauritius
touched at the Cape in their way to the South Pacific Ocean; where they were going to
make discoveries, under the command of M. Marion. AotouMU, the man M. de lloiigain-
ville brought from Otaheite, was to have returned with .M. .Marion, had he been living.

After having visited the governor ami some other |)rincipal persons of the plaee, we fixed
ourselves at Mr. lirandt's, the usual residence of most ollicers belonging to I'liglisli ships.
This gentleman spares neither trouble nor expense to make his house agreiable to those who
favour him with their company, and to accommodate them with everything they want.
With him I concerted measures for supplying the ships with provisions, and all other neces-
saries they wanted ; which he set about procuring witbtuit delay, while tlie seamen on board
were employed in overhauling the rigging ; and the carpenters in caulking the ship's sides
and ilecks, &:e.

Messrs. AVales and Bayley got all their instruments on shore, in order to make astrono-
mical obscrvatif)ns for ascertaining the going of the watches, an<l other purposes. The result
of some of these observations showed, that Mr. Kendal's watch iiad answered beyond all
expectation, by pointing out the longitude of this plaee to within one minute of time to what
it was observed by Messrs. Mason and Dixon in 17'»1. Three or four days after ns, two
Dutch Indiamcn arrived here from Holland, after a ])assagc of between four and five months,
in which one lost, by the scurvy and other jmtrid diseases, ITiO men ; and the other 41.
They sent, on their arrival, great numbers to the hosjiital in very dreailful circumstances.
It is remarkable, that one of these sliips touched at Port Praya, and left it a month before
we arrived there; and yet we got here three days before her. The Dutch at the ( 'a])e,
having found their hospital too small for the reception of their sick, were going to build a
now one a: tl.o oast part of the town; the foundation of which was laid with great ceremony
while we were there.

liy the healthy condition of the crews of both ships at our arrival, I thought to have nia<le
my stay at the Cape very short. But, as the bread we wanted was unbaked, and the s|>irit,
wliich I forrid scarce, to be collected from different parts out of the country, it was the
IJltli of November before wo had got everything on board, and the 22d before wi- could put
to sea. During this stay the crews of both sliips were served every day with fresh beef or
mutton, new baked broad, and as much greens as they could oat. The ships were caulked
and painted ; and, in every respect, jiut in as good a condition as when they left l-'ngland.
Some alterations in the otHcors took place in the Adventure. ]\lr. iShank, the first lieu-
tenant, having boon in an ill state of health ever since wo sailed from Plymouth, .and not
finding himself recover hero, desired my leave to quit, in order to return home for the
re-establishment of his health. As his request appeared to bo well founded, I granted him
leave accordingly, and appointed Mr. Kemp first lieutenant in his roouk ; and Mr. Burncy,
one of my midshipmen, second, in the room of Mr. Kemp.

Mr. Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit of natural history and
botany, met with a Swedish gentleman, one Mr. Sparman *, who understood something of
these sciences, having studied under Dr. Linnaeus. He being willing to embark with us,
Mr. Forster strongly importuned me to take him on board ; thinking tbat ho would bo of
great assistance to him in the course of the voyage. I at last consented, and he embarked

• Tliis is the celrliratcd Dr. Andrew Spni'nian, tlie fiiinil nnd p\ipil of Linn.Tii!), so well known for his extensive
reecarclicg into the natural history of the Ciipo of Good Ilupe. — Kd.

■'1!!

li.

I il

•ui

1 1

I'll
,1'r

\ I

III

'■

350

(OOKS SK( ONI) V()VA«JK UOIJ\n TIIK WOULP.

Nov. 1772.

>vitli us nconnlinijly, M an n "istaut to .>rr. Forutcr ; who horo his exponsos on hoard, and
nllowcil him a yearly 8ti|>( inl ht tiiili-s,

Mr. llo(li,'('f< »'nij)loyt'il liinim-lf lierc in drawing a view nf the Capo, town, ami parts
aiijiu'i'iit. in oil coIoiirM ; wliiih wa« projurly pacl(i>d up, with Minio others, and Kft with
iMr. linindt, in order to bo forwarded to tiio Admiralty hy the Hri^t ship that should
Mitil for i'jiglan('.

niAi'TKR II. — nEi'AHTi'nE luoM THE (Ai'K or oooii noi'E, IN sEARcti OP A sorxnERN

ro.NTINr.NT.

IIavino at length finished my huniness at the Cape, and taken leave of the governor and
some others of the chief oHieers, who, with very obliging readiness, ha<l given me all tho
assistance I could desire, on the '2'2d Xovemher we repaired on hoard, and at three o'clock
in the afternoon weigiiecl, and came to sail with the wind at N. hy W. As soon as tho
anchor was up, we saluted L^.e fort with fifteen guns, which was immediately ret)irned ; and
after making a few trips, got out of the hay hy seven o'clock, at which time the town boro
8.K., distant four miles. After this we stood to the westward all night, in order to get
clear of the land ; having the wind at N.X. W. ami N.W., blowing in scpialls, attended with
rain, which obligeil us to reef our topsails. The sea w.as again illuminated for some time,
in the same manner as it was the night before we arrived in Table Hay.

Having got clear of the land, I directed my course for Cape Circumcision. The wind
continued at N. \V. a moderate gale., until the 2-lth ; when it veered round to tho eastward.
On the noon of this day, we were in the latitude of .iri 2">' south, and 2!)' west of the Cape ;
and had abundance of albatrosses about us, several of which were caught with hook and
line ; and were very well relished by many of the people, notwithstanding they were at
this time served with fresh mutton. Judging that we should soon come into cold weather,
I ordered slops to be served to such as were in want ; and gave to each man the fearnought
jacket and trowsers allowed them by the Admiralty.

Tiie wind continued easterly for two days, and blew a moderate gale, which brought us
into tlie latitude of .'M)' 4', and 2^ of longitude west of the Cape; thermometer .')2.',. Tho
wind now came to W. and S. W., and on the 21)th iixed at W.N.W. and increased to a storm,
which continued, with some few intervals of moderate weather, till the (5th of December ;
when we were in the latitudeof 4H^ 41' south, and longitude 111' 24' east. This gale, which
was attended with rain and hail, blew at times with such violence that we couhl carry no
sails: by which means we were driven far to the eastward of our intended course, and no
hopes were left me of reaching Cape Circumcision. Hut the greatest misfortune that attended
ns, was the loss of great ])art of our live stock ; which we had brought from tho Cape ; and
which consisted of sheep, hogs, and geese. Indeed this sudden transition from warm mild
weather, to extreme cold and wet, ma<le every man in the ship feel its effects. For by this
time the mercury in the thermometer had fallen toMH; whereas at the Cape it was generally
at (57 and upwards. I now made some addition to the people's allowance of spirit, by giving
them a dram whenever I thought it necessary, and ordered Captain Furneanx to do the
same. The night proved clear and serene, and the only one that was so since we left the
Ca])e ; and the next morning the rising sun gave us such flattering hopes of a fine day, that
we were induced to let all the reefs out of the top-sails, and to get top-gallant-yards across,
in order to make the most of a fresh gale at north. Our hopes, however, soon vanished ; for
before eight o'clock, the serenity of the sky was changed into a thick haze, accompanied with
rain. The gale increasing, obliged us to hand the main-sail, close-reef our top-sails, and to
strike top-gallant-yards. The barometer at this time was unusuiilly low, which foreboded an
approaching storm ; and this happened accordingly ; for, by one o'clock p.m., the wind,
which was at N.W., blew with such strength as obliged us to take in all our sails, to strike
top-gallant-masts, and to get the sprit-sail-yard in. And I thought proper to wear, and lie
t(», under a mizzen-stay-sail, with the ships' heads to the N.E., as they would bow the sea,
wiiich ran prodigiously high, better on this tack.

I)k.. 177:

COOKS sKcoNi) vov.\«;k koi'ni) tiik mould.

.'!.'.!

At cij^lit (i'fli)fk next inoriiiii;;. Iiriii^' tlic Mtli, we wmv, ami lay on tlic otiior tack ; tin-
rralc was a littlo nliatcd, hut tlu' Mta iiiii ton lii;;li ti> make f'ail. any iiioif tlian tlit> rDi-c-tiip-
inast Ntay-wiil. In the cvcniiiir, Ixin;; in tlic latitmli- of I!) -10' !«ontli, ami 1 '. cast of tlir
Cnpf, wi' saw two pinuuins, ami sonn- sen or rni;k wihiI, wliicli ooasiomd iih to xouml, with-
out limlin^ ground at 1(N) tatiioUH. At ci^^lit, i>. m. wc> wore, an<l lay with uur li<'a<l.H to
till- N.lv till tlirt'o oVlofk in thr niornini; ol' tlu- Ihli, tlu-ii wore again to the south wanl, the
\>inil lilowing in M<|ualU, attemleil with xhowers of snow. At ei^iht, luinj,' foniething more
moderate, I mailo the .\ilventure higiial to ni.kke »*ail, ami noon after oade sail ourselves
uiitler the courses, and dose-n'eftd top-sails. In the eveninj;, took in the ti>p-sails and main-
sail, and liroujiht to, undrr fore-sail and mi/./.en ; thermometer at !Mi . 'I'lie wind, still at
N.W., blew a fresli gale, accompanied with ix very high sea. In the night, had a jiretty
smart frost with snow.

In the morning of the lOth, we made sail under courses and to))-sails dose-reefed ; and
niade the signal for the .\dventure to make sail and had. At <'ight o'eloek, saw an island
of ice to the westward of us, heing then in the latitude »)f ."lO" 10' south, and longitude "J 0'
east of the Cape of (lood Hope. Soon after, the wind moderated, and we ht all the reefs
out of the to|)-sail8, got the spritsail-yard out, and top-gallant-mast up. The weather coming
hazy, I called the Adventure by signal under my stern ; which was \w sooner done, than tho
ha/f increased so much, witli simv ami sleet, that we did not see an island of ice, which we
were steering directly for, till we 'v re less than a mile from it. I judged it to be about
TtO feet high, and half a mile in circuit. It was Hat at top, and its sides rose in a ])crpen-
diciilar direction, against which the .sea broke exceedingly high. Captain Furne;iux at first
took this ice for land, and hauled ofV from it, until calleil back by signal. As the weather
>\as foggy, it was necessary to jiroceed with caution. We therefore reefed our topsails, and
at the same tinu- sounded, but found no ground with l.'iO fathoms. We kept on to the
southwartl with the wind at north till night, which we spent in making short trips, lirst one
way and then another, imder an easy sail ; thernionu'tcr tliis 24 hours from U(iJ, to 'A\.

At tlaylight in the morning of the lltli, we made sail to the southward with the wind at
west, having a fresh gale, attended with slett and snow. At noon we were in the latitude
of '»!' i'lO' S., and longitmle 21 ' .'I K., where we saw somewhito birds about tho size of
pigeons, with blackish bills and feet. I never saw any such before ; and Mr. Forster had
no knowUdge of them. I believe them to be of the pi-terel tribe, and natives of these icy
Bias. At this time wu passed betwcun two ice islands, which lay at a little distance from
each other.

In the night, the wind veered to N.W., which enabled us to stoc.- S.AV". On tho 12th,
we had still thick hazy weather, with sleet and snow ; so that wo were obliged to i)roceed
with great caution on account of the ice islands: six of these wo passed this day; some of
them near two miles in circuit, and (5(1 fiet high. And yet, such was tho force and h'ight
of tho waves, that the sea broke quite over them. This exhibited a view, which for a few
moments was pleasing to the eye ; but when wc reflected on tho danger, the mind was filled
with horror; for, were a ship to got against tho weather-side of one of these islands when
tho sea runs high, she would bo dashed to pieces in a moment. Upon our getting among
the ico islands, tho albatrosses left us ; that is, we saw but one now and then ; nor did ()ur
other companions, the ])intadoes, sheer-waters, small grey birds, fulmars, &c. ajijjcar in such
numbers ; on the other hand, penguins began to make their appearance. Two of these birds
were hclmi to-day.

Tho wind in the night veered to west, and at last fixed at S.W., a fresh gale, with sleet
and snow, which froze on our sails and rigging as it fell, so that they were all hung with
icicles. We kept on to the soiithward, passed no less than eighteen ice islands, and saw
more penguins. At noon on the 13th, we wore in the latitude of 54' south, which is tho
latitude of Capo Circumcision, discovered by jM. llouvet in 1730; but we wore ten degrees
of longitude east of it ; that is, near 1 18 leagues in this latitude. Wo stood on to tho S.S.E.
till eight o'clock in tho evening, the weather still continuing thick and hazy, with sleet and
buow. From noon till this time, twenty ice islands, of various extent both for height and
circuit, presented themselves to our view. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no ground
with 150 fathom of line.

:iMiii"

3oi

COOKS SECOND VOVAfiK ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1772.

^^!

We now t.ickpd, ami made a trip to the northward till midnight, when we stood again to
the southward ; and at half-an-hour past six o'clock in the morning of the 14tli, we wero
stojiped by au immcnsi- fiolil of low ice ; to which we could sec no end, either to the east,
west, or south. In different parts of this field, were islands, or hills of ice, like those wo
found floatir.ij in the sea ; and some on board thought they saw land also over the ice, bearing
S.AV. by S. I even thought so myself; but changed my opinion upon more narrowly
examining these ice hills, and the various appearances they made when seen through the
haze ; for at this time it was both hazy and cloudy in the horizon, so that a distant object
could not be seen distinct. Ileing now in the latitude of r»4'' fiO' south, and longitude 21° 34'
east, and having the wind at N.W., we bore away along the edge of the ice, steering S.S. K.
and S. K., according to the direction of the north side of it, where we saw many whales,
peu'^uins, some white birds, ]>intadoes, &c.

At eight o'clock, we brought to under a point of the ice, where we had smooth water:
and I sent on board for Captain Furueaux. After we had fixed on rendezvouses in case of
separation, and some other matters for the better keeping company, he returned on board,
and we made sail again along the ice. Some pieces we took up along-side, which yielded
fresh water. At noon we had a good observation, .and found ourselves in latitude 54° Sfi'
south.

"We continued a S.E. course along the edge of the ice till one o'clock, when we came to a
point round which we hauled S.8.W., the sea ajipearing to be clear of ice in that direction.
But after running four leagues ujxjn this course, with the ice on our starboard side, we found
ourselves quit*' embayed ; the ice extending from T .N.E. round by the west and south, to
east, in one compact body. The weather was indifferently clear ; and yet we could see no
end to it. At five o'clock, we hauled up east, wind at north, a gentle gale, in order to clear
the ice. The extreme east point of it, at eight o'clock, bore E. by S., over which appeared
a clear sea. We however sjient the night in making short boards, under an easy sail.
Tliernidmeter, these 24 hours, from 32 to 30.

Next day, the loth, we had the wind at N.W., a small gale, thick foggy weather, with
much snow : thermometer from 32 to 27 ; so that our sails and rigging were all hung with
icicles. The fog was so thick, at tiuies, that we could not sec the length of the ship ; and
we had much difficulty to avoid tlie many islands of ice that surrounded us. About noon,
having but little wind, we hoisted out a boat to try the current, which we found set S.E.
near -^ of a mile an hour. At the same time, a thermometer, which in the open air was at
32°, in the surface of the sea was at 30° ; and, after being immorged 100 fathoms deep for
about 1.") or 20 minutes, came up at 34°, which is only 2° above freezing. Our latitude at
this time was r»5° }{'. The thick fog continued till two o'clock in tlie afternoon of the next
day, when it cleared away a little, and we made sail to tiie southward, wind still at N.W.,
a gentle gale. We had not run long to the southward before we fell in with the main field
of ice, extending from S.S.W. to E. We now bore away to east along the edge of it ; but
at niglit hauled off north, with the wind at W.N.AV., a gentle gale attended with snow.

At four in the morning on the 17th, stood again to the south; but was again obliged to
bear up on account of the ice, along the side of which we steered betwixt E. and S.S.W. ,
hauling into every bay or opening, in hopes of finding a passage to the south. But wo found
everywhere the ice closed. We had a gentle gale at N.W. with showers of snow. At
noon we were, by observaticm, in the latitude of 55° 10' south. In the evening, the weather
was clear and sen-ne. In the course of this day, we saw many whales, one seal, penguins,
some of t'.ie white birds, another sort of peterel, which is brown and white, and not much
unlike a pintado; and some other sorts already known. We found the skirts of the loose
ice to be more brolten than usual ; and it extended some distance beyond the main field,
insomuch that wc sailed amongst it the most part of the day ; and the high ice islands without
us were innumerable. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no ground with 250 fathoms
of line. After this we hauled close upon a wind to the northwiird, as we could see the field
of ice exten<l as far as N.E. But this happened not to be the nortlsern point ; for at eleven
o'clock, we were obliged to tack to avoid it.

At two o'clock the next morning, wc stood again to the northward, with the wind at

Dec. 1772.

d again to
, wc wcro
I tlic cast,
! tliose wo
:e, bearing
narrowly
roucrh tlic
ant oltjcct
do 21°" 34'
ngS.S.K.
ly whales,

itb water :

in case of

on board,

;li yielded

le 54° 55'

came to a

direction.

we found

south, to

uld see no

er to clear

1 appeared

easy sail.

tlier, with
lunji with
ship ; and
)out noon,
d set S.E.
air was at
s deep for
latitude at
f the next

at N.W.,
main field
of it ; but

snow,
obliged to
d S.S.W.,
t we found
mow. At
le weather

penguins,

not much

the loose

nain field,

ds without

50 fathoms

the field
r at eleven

ic wind at

Dkc. i:

C(^OKS SECOND VOYAGE lUMNI) THE WOULD.

065

N.W. by W., thinking to weather the ice upon this tack ; on which we stood but two hours,
before we found ourselves <|uite iiiiliiucii, heiuu tlieu in latitude ."•."» }!', loniritudo L'l ;{'.
The wind veering m()re to the north, "we tacked, au<l stood to the westward under ail tho
sail we -ould carry, having a fresh breeze and dear weather, whicli last was of short dura-
tion. For at six o'clock, it hecanu' hazy, and soon after there was thick fog ; the wind veered
to the N.l']., freshened, and brought with it snow and sleet, which froze on the rigging as it
fell. We were now enabled to get clear of the fiehl of iee ; but at the same time wc were
carried in amongst the ice islands, in a manner equally dangerous, and which, with much
difficulty, wo kept clear of.

llF hfANIIS.

Dangerous as it is to sail among these floating rocks (if I may be allowed to call them so)
in a thick fog, this, however, is preferable to being entangled with immense fields of ice
under the same circumstances. The great danger to be apprehended in this latter case, is
the getting fast in the ice ; a situation which would bo exceedingly alarming. I had two
men on board that had been in the fJreenland trade ; the one of them in a ship that lay nine
weeks, and the other in one that lay six weeks, fast in this kind of ice ; which they called
packed ice. What t/ir>/ call field ice is thiekiT ; and the whole field, be it ever so large,
consists of one piece. Whereas tiiis which / call field ice, from its immense extent, consists
of many pieces of various sizes, both in thickness and surface, from ;}(( to 40 feet square to
3 or 4 ; packed close together ; and in jdaces hca]>ed one upon another. This, 1 am of
opinion, would bo found too hard for a ship's side, that is not jtrojicrly armed against it.
How long it may have lain, or will lie here, is a point not easily determined. !Such ice is
foimd in the Greenland seas all the summer long ; and I think it cannot be colder there in
the summer, than it is here. IJe this as it may, wc certainly had no thaw ; on liie contrary,
the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer kept generally below the freezing point, although it
was the middle of summer.

It is a general o]iinion, tiiat the ice I have been sjioaking of is formed in bays and rivers.
Under this supposition, we were led to believe that lanil was not far distant ; and ihat it
even lay to the southward behind the ice, whicli alone hindered us from ap]iroaching to it.
Therefore, as we had now sailed about 30 leanues along the edge of the ice, without finding
a passage to the south, I determined to run 30 or 40 leagues to the cast, afterwards cndca-

A A

' :nh

i M

-■(

Ijn

';.ki

354

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1772

r I

I i

voiir to get to tlio southwards, and, if I met with no land, or other impediment, to get bcliind
the iec, and put the matter out of .all manner of dispute. With this view, we kept st.inding
to the N.W. with the wind at N.E. and N., thick foggy weather, with sleet and snow, till
six in the evening, when the wind veered to N.W., and we tiicked and stood to the eastward,
meeting with many islands of ice of different magnitudes, and some loose i)ieces : the ther-
mometer from 30 to 34 ; weather very hazy, with sleet and snow, and more sensibly colder
than the thermometer seemed to point out, insomuch that the whole crew complained. In
order to enable them to support this weather the better, I caused the sleeves of their jackets
(which were so short as to expose their arms) to be lengthened with baize ; and had a cap made
for each man of the same stuff, together with canvas ; which proved of great service to them.

Some of our people beginning to have symptoms of the scurvy, the surgeons began to
give tliom fresh wort every day, made from the malt we had on board for that purpose.
One man in particular was highly scorbutic ; and yet he had been taking of the rob of
lemon and orange for some time, without being benefited thereby. On tiio other Iwind,
Captain Furneaux told me, that he had two men who, though far gone in this disease, were
now in a manner entirely cured of it.

We continued standing to the eastward till eight o'clock in the morning of the 21st, when,
being in the latitude of 'u\' iiO', and longitude 2})" 24' east, wc hauled to the south with the
wind .it west, a fresh gale .ind hazy, with snow. In the evening the wind fell, and the
wciitlier cleared up, so as that we could see a few leagues round us ; being in the latitude of
CA" 43' south, longitude 21)" 30' east. At ten o'clock, seeing many islands of ice ahead, and
the weather coming on foggy, with snow, we wore and stood to the northward, till three in
the morning, when wc stood again to the south. At eight the weather cleared up, and the
wind came to W.S.W., with which we made all the sail we could to the south ; having
never less than ten or twelve islands of ice in sight.

Next day wc had the wind at S.W. and S.S.W. a gentle g.alo, with now and then showers
of snow and hail. In the morning, being in tiic latitude of 5i)" 20' south, and loufjitude
31° 30' cast, wo hoisted out a boat to see if there was any current, but fotind none.
Mr. Forstcr, who went in the boat, shot some of the small grey birds before mentioned,
which were of the pcterel tribe, and about the size of a small ])igeon. Their back, and
upper side of their wings, their foot and bills, are of a blue-grey colour. Their bellies, and
luider side of their wings, arc white, a little tinged with blue. The upper side of thoir
quill-feathers is a dark blue tinged with black. A streak is formed by feathers nearly of
this colour along the u]>pcr parts of"the wings, and crossing the back a little above the tail.
The end of the tail-feathers is also of the same colour. Their bills are much broader than
any I have seen of the same tribe ; and tlieir tongues arc remarkab'v broad. These blue
peterels, as I shall call them, are seen nowhere but in the southern hemisphere, from about
the latitude of 28", and upwards. Thennonicter at 33" in the open air, at 32" in the sea at
the surface, and at 34i° when drawn, and (i,\ minutes in drawing up from 100 fathoms below
it, where it had been 10 minutr-s.

On the 24th, the wind blew from N.W. to N.E. a gentle gale, fair and cloudy. At noon
we were by observ.ation in the latitude of 56" 31' south, and longitude 31" ID' east ; the
thermometer at .'1.')', And being near an island of ice which w.is about fifty feet high, .and
four hundred fathoms in circuit, I sent the master in the jolly-boat to see if any water ran
from it. He soon returned with an account that there was not one drop, or .any other
appearances of thaw. In the evening, we sailed through several floats or fields of loose
ice, lying in the direction of S.E. and N.W., at the san)e time we had continually severjil
islands of the same composition in sight. On the 25th, the wind veering round from the
N.E. by the east to south, it blew a gentle gale ; with which we stood to the W.S.W., and
at noon were in the Latitude of itf iiO' south, and longitude 21)'" 32' cast. The weather was
fair and cloudy ; the .air sharp and cold, attended with a hard frost. And, although this
w.as the middle of summer with us, I much question if the day was colder in any part of
England. The wind continued at south, blew a fresh gale, fair and cloudy weather, till
near noon the next day, when we had clear sunshine, and found ourselves, by observation,
in the latitude of dS" 31' soutli, longitude 20 " 57' east.

In the course of the last twenty-four hours, we passed through several fields of broken,

Dec. 177;

Dec. 17/2.

COOKS SECl^ND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

355

[et behind
t standing

snow, till
eastward,
tlie tlicr-
bly colder
lined. In
jir jackets
I cap made
> to them.

began to
t purpose,
the rob of
ither hand,
scase, were

J 1st, when,
th witli the
.'11, and the
latitude of
ahead, and
till three in
up, and the
th ; having

icn showers
id loniritudc
bund none,
mentioned,
r back, and
bellies, and
ide of their
rs nearly of
Dve the tail,
oader than
These blue
rom about
the sea at
loms below

At noon
cast ; the
st high, and
water ran
r any other
Ids of loose
lally several
nd from the
r.S.W., and
weather was
Ithough this
any part of
weather, till
observation,

s of broken,

loose ice. They were in general narrow, but of a considerable length, in the direction of
N.W. and S.E. The ice was so close in one, that it would hardly admit the ship through
it. The pieces were flat, from four to six or eight inches thick, and api)eared of that sort of
ice which is generally formed in bays or rivers. f)thcrs again were diiferent ; the i>i('ccs
forming vjirious honey-combed branches, exactly like coral rocks, and exhibiting sucli a
variety of figures as can hardly be conceived. We sujiposid this ice to have broken from the
maiii field wc had lately left ; and which I was determined to get to the south of, or behind,
if possible, in order to satiisfy myself whether or not it joined to any land, as had been
conjectured. With this view, I kept on to the westward, with a gentle gale at S. and
S.S.W., and soon after six o'clock in the evening we saw some penguins, which occasioned
us to soimd ; but we found no ground with laO fathoms.

In the morning of the 27tli, we saw more loose ice, but not many isliinds ; and those wo
did see were but small. The day being calm and pleasant, and the sea smooth, we hoisted
out a boat, from which jMr. Forster shot a penguin and some peterels. These iieniMiins
differ not from those seen in other parts of tiie world, except in some minute i)artieulars
distinguishable only by naturalists. 8ome of the i)eterels were of the blue sort, but differed
from those before mentioned, in not having a broad bill ; and the ends of their tail-featliers
were tipped with white instead of dark blue. But whether these were only the distinctic.na
between the male and female, was a matter disputed by our naturalists. We were now in
the latitude of .58" 19' soutli, longitude 24° '.V,)' east, and took the opportunity of the calm
to sound ; but found no ground with a line of 220 fathoms. The calm continued till six in
the evening, when it was succeeded by a light breeze from the east, which afterwards
increased to a fresh gale.

In the morning of the 2Rth, I made the signal to the Adventure to spread four miles on my
starbo.ard beam ; and in this position we continued sailing W.S.W. until four o'clock in the
afternoon, when the hazy weiither, attended with snow showirs, made it necessary for us to
join. Soon after we reefed our top-sails, being surrounded on all sides with islands of ice.
In the morning of the 29th, wo let them out again, and set o])-gallaut sails, still continuing
our course to the westward, and meeting with sever.-il penguins. At noon we were, by
observation, in the latitude of ;")!)' 12*, longitude 19' 1' east, which is '.i' more to the west
than wo were when we first fell in with the field ice ; so that it is pretty clear that it joined
to no land, as was conjectured.

Having come to a resolution to run as far west as the meridian of CapeCircumcision, provided
we met with no impe<liment, as the distance was nr' more th.an oO leagues, the wind
favourable, and the sea seemed to be pretty clear of ic, 1 sent on board for Captain I"'urneaux,
to make him acqiiainted therewith; and after dinner he returned to his shiji. At one o'clock
wc steered for an ishind of ice, thinking, if there were any loose ice round it, to take some
on board, and convert it into fresh water. At four we brought to, close under the lee of the
island, where we did not find what we wanted, but saw upon it eighty-six penguins. This
piece of ice was about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet high, and U|)wards ; for
we lay for some minutes witli every sail becalmed under it. The side on which the penguins
were rose sloping from the sea, so as to admit tliem to creep up it.

It is a received ojjinion that penguins never go far from land, and that the sight of them
is a sure indication of its vicinity. This opinion n.ay hold good where there arc no ice
if'ands; but where such are, these birds, us well .is many others which usu.ally keep near the
shores, finding a roo8ting-i)lace upon these islands, m.ay be brought by them a great distance
from any land. It will however be sjiid, that they must go on shore to breed ; that probably
the females were there, and that these were only the males which we saw. IJe this as it
m.ay, I shall continue to take notice of these birds whenever wc see them, and leave every
one to judge for himself *.

* Mr. Darwin, in rcniiu-lting on tlip lialiits of tlic pcn-
pnin, us observed hy liini iit tlio Fulkliuul IsUimls, states,
that " in diving its little plnmcless wings are nseil as fin« ;
bnt on tlio land, as front legs. Wlicn crawling (it may bo
said on font legs) tlirongh the tussocks, -"i on the side of
a grassy cliff, it moved so very quickly that it might

A a2

readily have been mistaken for a quadruped. When at
sea, and Ht'hing, it conies lo the surface, for the purpose of
breathing, with siicli a spring, and dives again so instanta-
neously, that I defy any one, at first ^ight, to he sure tliat
it is not a fish leaping for sport." — Siirvet/inf/ Voyaget
nf the Adventure and Beagle, vol. iii. p. 257.

' ?

■■i;

• <

Im;

fl.-)G

COOK'S SECOND V.OYAOE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1?75.

Wo continued onr course to the westward, with a gcntlo gale at E.N.E., the weather
bring sometimes tolerably clear, and at other times thick and hazy, with snow. The
thermometer for a few days past was from .'U to 3(». At nine o'clock the next morning,
beinfr the 30tli, wc shot one of the white birds ; upon which we lowered a boat into the

^i£'.

k^:

.,;'!

■f

PRNGUINS,

« I

water to take it up, and by that means killed a penguin wliicli weighed JH pounds. The
white bird was of the petcrel tribe ; the bill, which is rather short, is of a colour between
black and dark blue, and their legs and feet arc blue. I believe them to be the same sort
of birds that Bouvct mentions to have seen when he was off Cape Circumcision.

We continued our westerly course till eight ©""clock in the evening, when we steered X.W.,
the point on which I reckoned the above-mentioned capo to bear. At midnight we fell in
with loose ice, which soon after obliged us to tack, and stretch to the southward. At half
an hour past two o'clock in the morning of the 3Ist, we stood for it again, thinking to take
se.ie on board ; but this was found impracticable. For the wind, which had been at N.E.,
now veered to S.E., and increasing to a fresh gale, brought with it such a sea as made it
very dangerous for the ships to remain among the ice. The danger was yet farther increased
by discovering an immense field to the north, extending from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W.
further than tlie eye could reach. As we were not above tw^o or three miles from this, and
surrounded by loose ice, there was no time to deliberate. We presently wore, got our tacks
on board, hauled to the south, and soon got clear, but not before we had received several
hard knocks from the loose pieces, which were of the largest sort, and among which we saw
a seal. In the afternoon, the wind increased in such a manner as to oblige us to hand the
topsails, and strik*. top-gallant-yards. At eiglit o'clock we tacked, and stuod to the cast till
midnight, when, being in the latitude of (50° 21' south, longitude 13" 32' east, we sto< a
again to the west. Next day, towards noon, tlio gale abated ; so that we could carry close-
reefed topsails. But the weather continued thick and hazy, with sleet and snow, which
froze on the rigging as it fell, and ornamented the whole with icicles ; the mercury in the
thermometer being generally below the freezing point. This weather continued till near
noon the next day ; at whicli time we were in the latitude of 59° 12' south, longitude
9° 45' east, and here we saw some penguins.

The wind had now veered to the west, and was so moderate that we could bear two reefs
out of the topsails. In the afternoon we were favoured with a sight of the moon,-whose face
we had seen but once si ce wo left the Cape of Good Hope. By this a judgment may be
formed of the sort of weather we had had since we left that place. Wc did not fail to
seize the opportunity to make several observations of the 8un and moon. The longitude

IAN. 1 J(<>.

c weather

ow. The

mornhig,

I into the

Jan. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROL'XD THE WOULD.

357

■sfe?^

unds. The
lur between
e same sort

;ered N.W.,
lit we fell in
At half
cing to take
len at N.E.,
as made it
icr increased
W. by W.
>m this, and
ot our tacks
ivcd several
ich we saw
to hand the
the cast till
it, we sto< ^
carry close-
snow, which
rcury in the
led till near
1, longitude

ar two reefs
, -whose face
lent may be
not fail to
lie longitude

cU'dticcd from them was 9' 34' 30' oast : ^fr. Kendal's watch, at the same time, giving
10^ 0' east, and tlie latitude was .'»}{" '»3' 30" soutli. This longitude is nearly tlie same that
is assigned to Cape Circumcision ; and at the going down of tlie sun, wo were about ninety-
five leagues to the south of the latitude it is said to lie in. At this time the weather was so
clear, that we might have seen land at fourteen or fifteen leagues' distance. It is therefore
very probable that what Uouvet took for land was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded
by loose or field ice. We ourselves were undoubtedly deceived by the ice liills, the day we
first fell in with the field ice. Xor was it an improbable conjecture that that ice joined to land.
The probability was however now greatly lessened, if not entirely set aside. For the sj)aeo
between the northern edge of the ice, along which wc sailed, and our route to the west,
when south of it, nowhere exceeded a hundred leagues, and in some ])laces not sixty. IJut a
view of the chart will best explain this. The clear weatlier continued no longer than three
f)'clock the next morning, when it was succeeded by a thick fog, sleet, and snow. Tiie wind
also veered to N.E., and blew a fresh gale, with which wc stood to S.E. It increased in
such a manner, that before noon we were brought under close-reefed to' sails. The wind
continued to veer to the north, at last fixed at N.W., and was attended with intervals of
clear weathci.

Our course was east, ^ north, till noon the next day, when wo were in the latitude of
r>n^ 2' south, and nearly under the same meridian as we were when we fell in with the last
field of ice, five days before ; so that had it remained in the same situation, we must now
have been in the middle of it ; whereas we did not so much as sec any. AVe cannot supjiose
that so large a float of ice as this was could be destroyed in so short a time ; it therefore
must have drifted to the northward ; and this makes it probable that there is no land under
this meridian, between the latitude of .55"^ and oU^ where we had supposed some to lie, as
mentioned above.

As we were now only sailing over a part of the sea where wc had been before, I directed
the course K.^.E., in order to get more to the south. Wc had the advantage of a fresh gale,
and the disadvantage of a thick fog ; much snow and sleet, which, as usual, froze on our rig-
ging as it fell, so that every rope was covered with the finest transparent ice I ever saw. This
aflbrded an agreeable sight enough to the eye, but conveyed to the mind an idea of coldness
nnich greater than it really was ; for the weather was rather milder than it had been for somo
time past, and the sea less encumbered with ice. But the worst was, the ice so clogged tlie
rigging, sails, and blocks, as to make them exceedingly bad to handle. Our people, however,
surmounted those ditiicultics with a steady perseverance, and withstood this intense cold much
better than I expected.

Wc continued to steer tc the E.S.E., with a fresh gale at N.W., attended with snow and
sleet, till the 8th, when wc were in the latitude of (iP 12' south, longitude 3P 47' east. In
the afternoon we passed more ice islands than we had seen for several days ; indeed they
were now so familiar to us, that they were often passed unnoticed, but more generally unseen,
on account of the thick weather. At nine o'clock in the evening, we came to one which had
a quantity of loose ice about it : as the wind was moderate, and the weather tolerably fair,
we shortened sail, and stood on and ofl^, with a view of taking some on board on the return
of light ; but at four o'clock in the morning, finding ourselves to leeward of this ice, we bore
down to an island to leeward of us, there being about it some loose ice, part of which we s.aw
break off. There we brought to, hoisted out three boats, and, in about five or six hours, took
up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of good fresh water. The pieces we took up were hard,
.ind solid as a rock ; some of them were so large that we Avere obliged to break them with
jiickaxcs before they could be taken into the boats.

The salt water which adhered to the ice was so trifling as not to be tasted, and after it had
lain on deck a short time entirely drained ofl^"; and the water which the ice yielded was per-
fectly sweet and well-tasted. Part of the ice we broke in pieces and put into casks, some wo
melted in the cojipers, and filled up the casks with the water, and s(mie we kej^t on deck for
present use. Tlie melting and stowing away the ice is a little tedious, and takes up some
time, otherwise this is the most expeditious way of watering I ever met with.

Having got on board this supj)ly of water, and the Adventure about two-thirds as much

<!•

050

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1773.

,;ii

S«:

(of which we stood in groat need), as wc had once broke the ice, I did not doubt of getting
more whenever wc were in want. I therefore, without hesitation, directed our course more
to the south, witli a gentle gale at N."\V., attended, as usual, with snow showers. In the
morning of the 11th, being tlien in the latitude of (52" 44' south, longitude 37" cast, the
variation of the compass was 24" 10' west, and the following morning in the latitude of
(54" 12* south, longitude 38" 14' east, by the mean of three compasses, it was no more than
23' r»2' west. In this situation we saw some penguins, and being near an island of ice,
from which several pieces had broken, we hoisted out two boats, and took on board as much
as filled all our empty eawks ; and the Adventure did the same. While this was doing,
]Mr. Torstershot an albatross, whose plumage was of a colour between brown and dark grey,
the head and upper side of the wings rather inclining to black, and it had white eye-brows.
Wo began to see these birds Jibout the time of our first fulling in with the ice islands, and
some had accompanied us over since. Tiicse, and the dark-brown sort with a yellow bill,
were the only albatrosses that had not now forsaken us.

At four o'clock p.m. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S.E. with a gentle
breeze at S. by W., attended with showers of snow. On the 13th, at two o'clock a.m., it
fell calm. Of this we took the opportunity to hoist out a boat, to try the current, which
>vc foimd to set N. W,, near one-thinl of a mile an hour. At the time of trying the current,
a Fahrenheit's tliermoi ?ter was immerged in the sea 100 fathoms below its surface, where
it remained twenty minutes. When it came up, the mercury stood at 32, which is the
freezing point. Some little time after, being exposed to the surface of the sea, it rose to
33J,, and in the open air to 36. The calm continued till five o'clock in the evening, when
it was succeeded by a light breeze from the south and S.E., with which we stood to the
N. E. with all our sails set.

Though the weather continued fair, the sky, as usual, was clouded. However, at nine
o'clock the next morning it was clear, and wc were enabled to observe several distances
between the sun and moon ; the mean result of wh'';V gave 39" 30' 30' cast longitude.
Mr. Kendal's watch, at the same time, gave 3}{' 2/ 45", which is 1" 2' 45" wcHt of the
observations ; whereas, on the 3rd instant, it was half a degree east of them.
In the evening I found tiic variation by the mean of azimuths taken with Gre-
gory's compass, to be 28" 14'

By the mean of six azimuths by one of Dr. Knight's . . . . . 28 32

And by another of Dr. Knight's 28 34

Our latitude at this time was (53" 57, longitude 30" 38.^' east.

The succeeding morning, the 15th, being then in latitude 03" 33' south, the longitude was
observed by the following persons, viz. —

JMysclf, being the mean of six distances of the sun and moon . 40" 1'45" E.

Mr. Wales, ditto 39 29 45

Ditto, ditto 39 56 45

Lieutenant Gierke, ditto 39 38

Mr. Gilbert, ditto 39 48 45

Mr. Smith, ditto 39 18 15

]Mean

39 42 12

I.' il-

Mr. Kendal's watch made 38 41 30

Which is nearly the same difference as the day before. But Mr. Wales and I took each of
us six distances of the sun and moon, with the telescopes fixed to our sextants, which
brought out the longitude nearly the same as the watch. The results were as follows : —
By air. Wales 38" 35' 30', and by me 38" 3(5' 45".

It is imi)ossible for me to say whether these or the former arc the nearest the truth, nor
can I assign any probable reason for so groat a disagreement. We certainly can observe
with greater accuracy through tlic telesco])e, than with the common sight, when the ship is
sufficiently steady. The use of the telescope is found difficult at first, but a little practice
will make it familiar. By the assistance of the watch, we shall be able to discover the

'AN.

1773.

.Ian. 1773,

C\.)OK'S SKCOND VOV V(;E llOUM) THK U'ORLD.

350

of getting
)ur9e more
I. In the
' cast, the
latitude of
more than
,nd of ice,
d as much
vaa doing,
dark grey,
eye-brows,
ilands, and
cllow bill,

1 a gentle
ck A.M., it
ent, which
he current,
ace, where
hich is the
., it rose to
ling, when
tood to the

er, at nine

il distances

longitude.

tent of the

28" 14'
28 32
28 34

gitude was

5"K
45
45

45
15

(ok each of
its, which
Follows : —

truth, nor
an observe
the ship is
Ic practice
scovcr the

gi-eatest error this method of observing the longitude at sea is liable to ; which, at the
gi-eatest, does not exceed a degree and a half, and in gtneral will be found to be much less.
Such is the improvement navigation has rtceived by the astronomers and mathematical
instrument-makers of this age ; by the former from tlie valuable tables they have com-
municated to the public, under the direction of the Board of Longitude, and contained in the
astronomical ei)hemeris ; and by tlie latter, from the great accuracy they observe in making
iiistruments, witiiout which the tables would, in a great measure, lii.><e their effect. The
preceding observations were made by four different sextants, of different workmen : mine
was made by ^Ir. Ilird; one of Mr. Wales's by Mr. Dollond ; the other, and Mr. Gierke's,
by Mr. Ramsden ; as also ^Ir. Gilbert''s and Smith's, wlio observed with the same
instrument.

rive tolerably fine days had now succeeded one another. This, besides giving us an
opportunity to make the preceding observations, was very serviceable to us on many other
accounts, and came at a very seasonable time. For having on board a good quantity of
fresh water or ice, which was the same thing, the people were enabled to wash and dry
tlieir clothes and linen ; a care that can never be enough attended to in all long voyages.
The winds during this time blew in gentle gales, and the weather was mild. Yet the
mercury in the thermometer never rose above 30, and was frequently as low as the freezing
point.

In the afternoon, having but little wind, I brought to under an island of ice, and sent
a boat to take up some. In the evening the wind freshened at east, and was attended with
snow showers and thick hazy weather, which continued great part of the IGth. As wo met
with little ice, I stood to the south, close hauled ; and at six o'clock in the evening, being
in the latitude of (M 5()' south, longitude 3i)- ."5' east, I found tlie variation by Gregory's
compass to be 2(5' 41' west. At this time, the motion Of the ship was so great, that I could
by no means observe with any of Dr. Knight's comj>asses.

As the wind remained invariably fixed at east, and E. by S., I continued to st.and to the
south; and on the 17th, between eleven jnd twelve o'clock, we crossed the Ant.arctic circle
in the longitude of 39 ' 35' east ; for at noon we were by observation in the latitude of
(JG" 30' .30' south. The weather was now become tolerably clear, so that we could see
several leagues round us ; and j'ct we had only seen one island of ice since the morning.
But about four p.m. as we were steering to the south, wc observed the whole sea in a manner
covered with ice, from the directi(m of S.E. round by the south to west.

In this sjiace, thirty-eight ice islands, groat and small, were seen, besides loose ice in
abundance, so that we were obliged to luff for one ])ieec, and bear up for another, and as we
continued to advance to the south, it increased iu such a manner, that at ^ past six o'clock,
being then in the latitude of 07" 15' south, we could proceed nofiirther; the ice being
entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent from E. to W.S.W., without the least
appearance of any opening. This immense field was composed of different kinds of ice,
such as high hills, loose or broken pieces packed close together, and what, I think, Green-
landmen call field ice. A float of this kind of ice lay to the IS.E. of us, of such extent that
I could see no end to it, from the mast-head. It was sixteen or eighteen feet high at least,
and appeared of a pretty equal height and surface. Here we saw many whales playing
about the ice, and for two days before had seen several flocks of the brown and white
pintadoes, which we named Antarctic peterels, because they seem to be natives of that
region. They are undoubtedly of the peterel tribe ; are in every respect shaped like the
pintadoes, diff'ering only from them in eoloui'. The head and fore part of the body of these
are brown ; and the hind part of the body, tail, and ends of the wings, are white. The
white peterel also appeared in greater numbers than before ; some few dark grey albatrosses,
and our constant companion the blue peterel. But the common pintadoes bad quite disap-
peared, as well as many other sorts, which are common in lower latitudes.

i \i\

; . i

I: ' ;

h '

I. »!

"V-

»lJO

COOK'S SECOND VOYAtiE IIOLXD THE WOULD.

Jan. J773.

tllAPTrR III. — SKUm, OF TIIF, SrAllCH Fon A .SOT'TIirRN CONTINF.NT nKTWFF.N THE

MKHIDIAN OF TlIK CAI'K OF tioOD HOI'IC AM) XFW ZKALAM) — WITH AN ACCOUNT OP

Tin: .SI.l'AUATlON OF TIU: TWO Sllll'.-*, AM> THE AltUIVAL OF TlIK llESOLUTION IN
IUHKV HAY.

Aftkr incotinor witli tins ice, I diil not tliinlv it was at all prudent to pcrsovorc in getting
farther to the south, especially as tii'> sununer was already half spent, and it would Iiavo
taken up some time to have <.'ot round the ice, even snpiiosini; it to have been practicahle,
which, iiowever, is donhtful. I thiieforc came to a resolution to proeeetl directly in search
of the land lately discovered l>y the I'Veneh. And as the wiinls still eontinue<l at E. by S.,
I was obliged to return to the north, over some i)art of the sea I had already made myself
acquainted with, and for that reason wished to have avoided, liut this was not to be done;
as our cour.'sc, made pood, was little better than north. In the night, the wind increased to
a strong gale, rttended with sleet and snow, and obliged us to double-reef our top-sails.
About noon the 'ext day, the gale al.attM; so that we could bear all our reefs out ; but the
wind still rcmaii.ed in its old quarter.

In the evening, being in the latitude of G4" 12' south, longitude 40" liV east, .a bird called
l)y us, in my former voyage. Port l\gniont lien (on account of the great plenty of them at
Port Kgmout, in Falkland Isles), came hovering several times over the ship, and then left
us in the direction of N.l''. They are a short, thick bird, about the size of a large crow, of a
dark brown or chocolate colour, with a whitish streak under each wing in the shajtc of
a balf-moon. I have been told that these birds are found in great plenty at the Fero Isles,
north of Scotland, and that they never go far from land. Certain it is, I never beWe saw
them .above forty leagues oft"; but I do not remember ever seeing fewer than two together,
whereas here was but one, which, with the islands of ice, may have come a good way
from land.

At nine o'clock, the wind veering to E.X.E., we tacked and stood to the S.S.E, ; but at
four in the morning of the 20tli, it returned back to its old ])oiiit, and wc resumed our
northerly course. One of the above birds was seen this morning ; probably the same we
saw the night before, as our situation was not much altered. As the day advanced, the
gale increased, attended with thick hazy weather, sleet and snow, and at last obliged us to
elose-reef our top-sails, and strike top-gallant yards. But in the evening, the wind abated
so as to admit us to carry whole top-sails and tojj-gallant yards aloft, llazy weather, with
snow and sleet, continued.

In the afternoon of the
21st, being in the latitude
of 62" 24' south, longitude
42° ]{)' east, we saw a white
albatross with black-tipped
wings, and a pintadoe bird.
The wind was now at south
and S.W. a fresh gale.
"With this we steered X.E.
against a very high sea,
which did not indicate the
vicinity of land in that
quarter ; and yet it was
there we were to expect it.
The next day wc had inter-
vals of fair weather ; the
wind was moderate, and wc

• 1 ill. .1 AI.HATKdSS.

carried our studding-sails.

In the morning of the 23rd, wc were iu latitude (JO^ 27' south, longitude 45 ' 33' cast.

.^■^^igm^^^^^-^^

,Fan. 1773.

rr.N THE

COINT 01'
.UTION IN

m getting
oiild liavu
raetical)lo,
' in search
E. l.y S.,
idc myself
) 1)0 done;
icreased to
r top- sails.
t ; but the

bird called
>f them at
d then left
crow, of a
ic shajic of
Foro Isles,
be'"ore saw
together,
good way

E. ; but at

sinned our
e same we
[vnced, the
liijcd lis to
ind abated
thcr, with

.1:

1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOVAciK UOUNO Tin: M'OHM>.

.".CI

33' cist.

ynnw showers continned, and tin- weather was so cold, that the water in niir water vessels
on deck had been fio/.en for sivcral iinceding nights. Having clear weather at intervals, I
si)read the ships .ihreast four miles from eaeli nther, in order the better to discover anything
tliat might lie in oiir way. We continned to sail in this manner till six o'clock in the
evening, when hii/.y wcatlier, and ^imw showers, made it necissary for us to join.

AVe ke|)t our course to the N.I!, till eight o'clock in the morning of tlie ±'>th, when the
wind having veered round to N.I"., by |]. by the wist and north, we tacked, and stood to
N.W. The wind w.is fresh, .and yet wc made but little way against a liigh northerly sea.
Wc now began to see some of that sort of luterels so wi'll known to sailors by the name of
sheerwaters, latitude .'A\~ !(>', longitude ."»(> Til' east. In the afternoon tlu- wind veered to
tlie southward of east, and at eiyht o'clock in the evening it increased to a storm, attended
with thick ha/.y weather, sleet and smow. During night we went lunler our fore-sail anil
main-top-sail close-reefed ; at daylight the next morning, added to them the fore and
mi//.en top-sails. At four o'clock it fell calm ; but a ])rodij;ious hi<;h sea from tlu' N.I',, and
a complication of the worst of weather, viz. snow, sleet, and rain, continued, togetliir with
the calm, till nine o'clock in the evening. Tlien the weather deaivd n]), and we got a
breeze at S.IC. by S. With this we steered N. by I", till eight o'clock tiie next morning,
being the 27th, when I spread the ships and steered N.N.E. all s.ails set, having a fresh
breeze at S. by W. and clear weather.

At noon we were, by observation, in the latitude of .'id" 251' south, and about three o'clock
in tlic afternoon, the sun and moon appearing at intervals, their distances were observed by
the following persons, and the longitude resulting therefrom was —

By ^Fr. Wales (mean of two sets) ')(>= '»{)' cast

Lieutenant Clerko '. . *)1 11

3Ir. Ciilbert . . 'A) 14

IMr. Smith . . ;)() .'.()

31 r. Kendal's watch . ."»() oO

At six o'clock in the evening, being in latitude ;")()" !) S., I now made signal to the Adven-
ture to come under my stern ; and at eight o'clock the next niornincr, sent lur to look out on
my starboard beam, having at this time a fresh gale at west, and jn-ctty clear wcatiicr. IJut
this was not of long duration ; for at two in the afternoon, the sky became cloudy and hazy ;
the wind increased to a fresh giile ; blew in S(pialls attended with snow, sleet, and drizzling
rain. I now made signal to the Adventure to come under my stern, and took another reef
in each top-sail. At eight o'clock I hauled up the main-sail, and ran all night under the
fore-sail, and two top-sails ; our course being N.X.E. and N.E. by N. with a strong galo
at N.AV.

The 2J)th, at noon, wc observed in latitude ii'2' 29' south, the weather being fair and
tolerjibly clear. I3nt in the afternoon, it .again became very thick and hazy, with rain ; and
the gale increased in such a manner as to oblige us to strike top-gallant yards, close-reef and
hand the top-sails. Wc spent part of the night, which was very dark .and stormy, in
making a tack to the 8.W., and in the morning of the 30th, stood again to the N.E., wind
at N.W. and north, a very fresh gale ; which split several of our small sails. This d.ay no
ice was seen ; probably owing to the thick hazy weather. At eight o'clock in the evening
we tacked and stood to the westward, under our courses ; but as the sea r.an high, wc made
our course no better tli.an S.S.W. At four o'clock the next morning, the gale had a little
abated ; and the wind had backed to W. by S. We again stood to the northward, under
courses and double-reefed top-suils, having' a very high sea from the N.N.W., which gave us
but little hopes of finding the land we wen in search of. At noon, we were in the latitude
of .50° r»0' S. longitude 50° 48' east, .and presently after wc saw two islands of ice. One of
these we passed very near, and found th.at it was breaking or falling to pieces, by the crack-
ing noise it made ; wliich was equal to the report of a four-pounder. There was a good deal
of loose ice .about it ; and had the weather been favourable, I should have brought to, and
taken some up. After jiassing this, we saw no more, till we returned again to the south.
Hazy, gloomy weather continued, and the wind remained invariably fixed at N.W., so that

I 'i

'■I

COOKS 8E( ONI) VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLI). Fkb. 1773.

wc could make our course no better than X.E. by X., and this course wo held till four
o'clock in the afternoon of the Ist of February. Being then in the latitude of 4M" .'{(>', and
longitude iM 7' c-ist. nearly in the meridian of the island of Mauritius, and where wc were
to expect to find the land said to be discovered by the French, of which at this time wo saw
not tiie least signs, we bore away east.

I now made the .-"igiial to the Adventure to keep at the distance of four miles on my star-
board beam. At half an hour past six, Ca]itain Furueaux made the signal to speak with
nie ; and upon his coming under my stern, he informed me that he had just seen a large
float of sea or rock weed, and about it several birds (divers). These were certainly signs
of the vicinity of land ; but whether it lay to the east or west was not possible for us to
know. 3Iy intention was to have got into this latitude four or five degrees of longitude to
the west of the meridian we were now in, and then to have carried on my researches to the
cast. liut the W. and N.W. winds we had had the five jncceding days, prevented mc from
putting this in execution.

Tlie continual high sea wc had lately had from the X.E., N.X.W. and west, left mo no
reason to believe that land of any extent lay to the west. AVe therefore continued to steer
to the E., only lying-to a few lioiu's in the night, and in the niorning resumed our course
again, four miles north and south from each other; the hazy weather not permitting us to
spread fartlier. We i)asSL'd two or three small pieces of roek-weeil, and saw two or three
birds known by tiie name of egg-bird.-< ; but saw no other signs of land. At noon we
observed, in latitude 40^ '.W soutli, longitude 59° 3'»' east. As we coidd only see a few
miles fartlier to the south, and as it was not impossible that there might be land not far off
in that direction, I gave orders to steer S. { E., and made the signal for the Adventure to
follow, she being, by this movement, thrown astern : the weather continuing hazy till half
an hour past six o'clock in the evening, when it cleared up so as to enable iia to see about
five leagues round us.

Being now in the latitude of 49" l[Y south, without having the least signs of land, I wore
and stood again to tlie eastward, and soon after spoke with Captain Furneaux. He told mo
that he tliought the land was to the X^. W. of us ; as he had, at one time, observed the sea
to be smooth when the wind blew in that direction. Although this was not conformable to
the renuirks tee had made on the sea, I resolved to clear up the point, if the wind would
admit of my getting to the west in any reasonable time.

At eight o'clock in the morning of tlie 3rd, being in the latitude of 4R° CtG' south, longi-
tude 6' 47' east, and upwards of 3' to the east of the meridian of IVIauritius, I began to
despair of finding land to the east; and as the wind had now veered to the northward,
resolved to search for it to the west. I accordingly tacked and stood to the west with a
fresh gale. This increased in such a manner, that before night we were reduced to our two
courses ; and at last, obliged to lie-to under the fore-sails, having a prodigious high sea from
W.X'^.W., notwithstanding tlie height of th" gale was from N^. by W. At three o'clock the
next morning, the gale abating, we made sail, and continued to ply to the west till ten
o'clock in the morning of the Cth. At this time being in the latitude of 48~' 6' south, longi-
tude i)8° 22' east, the wind seemingly fixed at "W.X.W., and seeing no signs of meeting with
land, I gave over plying, and bore away east a little southerly : being satisfied, that if there
is any land hereabout, it can only be an isle of no great extent. And it was just as
probable I might have found it to the east as west.

While we were plying about here, we took every opportunity to observe the variation of
the compass, and found it to be from 27" 50', to 30" 20' west. Probably the mean of the
two extremes, viz. 29" 4', is the nearest the truth, as it nearly agrees with the variation
observed on board the Adventure. In making these observations, we found that, when the
sun was on the starboard side of the ship, the vari;ition was the least ; and when on the
larboard side, the greatest. This was not the first time we had made this observation,
without being able to account for it. At four o'clock in the morning of the 7th, I made
the Adventure's sign.al to keep at the distance of four miles on my starboard beam, and
continued to steer E.S.E. This being a fine day, I had all our men's bedding and clothes
spread on deck to air, and the ship cleaned and smoked betwixt decks. At noon I steered

L>1d till four
{" :«>', and
re wc wero
iiuc wc saw

)u my Btar-
sin'iik witli
leun a large
bainly sigiiy

for 118 to
ongitudo to
relies to the
ed mc from

left mc no
led to steer

1 our course
litting us to
wo or three
Lt noon we
y sec a few
1 not fur off
dvcnturc to
izy till half
:o see about

land, I wore
lie told mc
rved the sea
iformable to
wind would

outh, longi-

I began to

northward,

west with a

to our two

gh sea from

o'clock the

?e8t till ten

outh, longi-

leeting with

that if there

was just as

variation of
mean of the
he variation
it, when the
vhen on the
observation,
7th, I made
beam, and
and clothes
)n I steered

Fk.ii. 177.'3.

((K)KS SKCONl) VOYAr.E HOUND TMK W(UtLI).

riti.'j

a i>oint more to the south, being then in the latitude of W 4{>' south, longitude (51'^ 4}l' east.
At six oVlock in the evening, F called in the Adventure; and at the same time took several
a/imuths, which gave the vurintion Ml ' "JJl' west. Tluw oli-crvations eoulil not be taken
with the greatest aeeuiaey, on aeeouut of the rolling of the ship, occasioned by a very high
westerly swell.

The preceding evening, three I'ort Kgmont heiw were seen ; this nidriiing another
appeared. In the evening, and several tinus in the night, jienguins were heard ; and at
daylight in the morning of the Jlth, several of these were seen ; and divers of two sorts,
seemingly such as are usually nut with on the e()a>t of Knglaud. This neeasioned us to
sound ; but we found no grnuiul with a line of 210 fathonis. Our Iatit\ide new was lit-" i'llV
south, and longitude {')',\' HJ)' ea^^t. This was at eight o'eloek. By tiiis time the wind had
veered nnmd by the N.K. to 10. . blew a brisk gale, and was atteude<l with ha/y weather,
which soon after turned to a thick fog ; and at the sanu) time, the wind shifted to N.K.

I eontinued tokeei)the wind on the larboard tack, and to lire a gnu every hour till noon ;
when I nuide the signal to taek, and tacked accordingly. Hut as neither this signal, nor
any of the former, was answered by the Adventure, we had but too much reason to think
that a sei)aration had taken ]ilacc; though we were at a loss to tell how it had been ettectcd.
I had directed Captain rurneaux, in case he was separated from me, to cruise three days in
the place where he last saw me. I therefore eontinued making short boards, and firing
half-iiour guns, till the S>th in tlm afternoon, when the weather having cleared up, wo could
sec several leagues round us, and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of our
horizon. At this time, we were about two or three leagues to the eastward of the situation
wo were in when wc last saw her, and were stamling to the wotward with a very strong
gale at N.N.W., accompanied with a great sea from the same direction. This, together
with an increase of w ind, obliged us to lie-to, till eight o'eloek the next morning ; during
whieh time wc saw nothing of the Adventure, notwithstanding the weather was pretty
clear, and we had kept firing guns, and burning false fires, all night. I therefore gave over
looking for her, made sail, and steered 8.10. with a very fresh gale at W. by N., accom-
panied with a high sea from the same direction. While we were beating about here, wc
frequently saw penguins and divers, which made >is conjecture that land was not far off;
but in what direction, it was not jiossible for us to tell. As wc advanced to the south, we
lost the penguins, and most of the divers, and, as usual, met with abundance of albatrosses,
blue peterels, shcerwaters, &c.

The lith at noon, and in the latitude of ol' 15' south, longitude 07^ 20' east, avo again
met with penguins ; and saw an egg-bird, which we also look upon to be a sign of the
vicinity of land. I continued to steer to tho S. 10., with a fresh gale in the N.W. quarter,
attended with a long hollow swell, and frequent showers of rain, hail, and snow. The I2th,
in tho morning, being in the latitude of 52^ 32' south, longitude (ii)- 47' east, the variation
was 31° 38' west. In the evening, in the latitude of r»3 7' south, longitude 70- 50' east,
it was 32^ 33': and the next morning, in the latitude of 53^ 37' south, longitude 72° 10', it
was 33- 8' west. Thus far we had continually a great number of penguins about the ship,
which seemed to be different from those we had seen near the ice ; being smaller, with
reddish bills and brownish heads. The meeting with so many of these birds, gave us some
hopes of finding land, and occasioned various conjectures about its situation. The great
westerly swell, which still continued, made it improbable that land of any considerable
extent lay to the west. Nor was it very probable that any lay to the north ; as wc wero
only about 100 leagues to the south of Tasman''s track in 1642; and I conjectured that
Captain Furneaux would explore this place ; which accordingly happened. In the evening
we saw a Port Egmont hen, which flow away in the direction of N.E. by E. ; and the next
morning, a seal was seen, but no penguins. In the evening, being in the latitude of
r);V 4t>' south, longitude 75° 52' east, the variation was 34" 4H' west ; and in tho evening of
the 15th, in latitude 57' 2' south, longitude 79" •'»'>' cast, it was 38' west. Five seals were
seen this day, and a few penguins ; which occasioned us to sound, without finding any
bottom, with a line of 15() fathoms.

At daylight in the morning of the 16th, wc saw an island of ice to the northward; for

3(54

COOKS SECOND V(>VAr.K UOI'ND J UK ^^'()llM).

l'i;i«. 177.1.

J'\ I

'i\-

'■

n 't

wliicli wc steered, in (uder ti> take somu on hoard ; hut the wind shil'tiui; to that direction,
himh'red u>* from jiuttiii;; tlii.-* in execiiti<in. At thii tiin(! >vo were in tlie hititnde of Ti/ IV
south, htnijitndi! JtO .V.)' east, and had two ishiiuls of ire in .>*ii.rht. 'I'his niornin;^ wt! saw
ono j)enj{uin, which a|i|)eared to he of the same nort which wc iiatl forim rly !<een near the
ice. Ihit we had now heeii ho often (h'ceived hy the.ie l)irds, tliat we could no hin;fer look
upon then), nor indeed upon any otiier oceanic liirds, wliich freipieut hi;.'h latitudes, as xnru
siyns of the vicinity of land. The wind continued not hm^ at north, l>ut vec reil to \]. hy
A.M., and hiew a {jentle ^'ale, with wliich we Htooil to t!ie southward ; liavin;^ freipient
showers of sleet :ind snow. Ihit in the ni;,dit we hud fair weather, and a clear serene sky;
and hetween midnight and three o'clock in the niornin;:, lijjlits were seen in the heavens,
similar to those in the northern Iieniis|)here, known hy the name of Aurora Jloreali^, or
liorthern li;;ht!< ; hut I never heard of the Aurora Ansttralis hein^ seen hefore. The otticer
of the watch ohserved, that it sojnetinies hroke out in spiral rays, and in a circular form ;
then its li;j;ht was very strong;, and its ajipearance heantifnl. lie could not iierceivo it had
any jiartieuhir direction ; for it appeared, at various times, in dill'erent parts of the heavens,
and ditVused its lii^ht throuifhout tiu- whole atniosiihere.

At nine in the morning, we hore down to an island of ice, which we reached hy noon.
It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred feet high at least ; though very little
loose ice ahout it. Ihit while wc were ct)nsidering whether or not we should hoist out our
boats to take some up, a great ipiantity hroke from the island. I'pon this wc li isted out
oiu' hoats, and went to work to get some on hctard. The pieces of ice, hoth great and small,
which hroke from the island, I ohserved, drifted fast to the westward; that is, they left the
island in that direction, and were, in a few hours, spread over a large space of sea. This,
I have no douht, was caused hy a current setting in that direction ; for the wind could havo
hut little eflect upon the ice ; especially as there was a large hollow swell from the west.
'J'his circumstance greatly retarded our taking up ice. NN'e, however, made a shift to get
on hoard ahout nine or ten tons before eight o'clock, when we hoisted in the hoats, and niado
sail to cast, inclining to the south, with a fresh gale at south ; which soon after veered to
S.JS.W. and S.W., with fair hut cloudy weather. This course brought us among many
ice isles; so that it was necessary to ])rocecd with great caution. In the night the mercury
in the thermometer fell two degrees below the freezing point ; and the water in the scuttle
casks on deck was frozen. As I have not taken notice of the thermometer of late, I shall
now observe that, as wc advanced to the north, the mercury gradually rose to 4;j, and fell
again, as we advanced to the south, to what is above mentioned ; nor did it rise, in the
middle of the day, to above IJ4 or 3').

In the morning of the 18th, being in the latitude of 57^ '»-4' south, longitude 83" 14' east,
the variation was 39' 33' west. In the evening, in latitude 58° 2' south, longitude 84^ 3.5'
cast, it was only 37^ 8' west ; which induced me to believe it was decreasing. But in the
evening of the 2(>th, in the latitude of 58^ 47' south, longitude DO" TiO' cast, I took nine
azimuths, with Dr. Knight's compass, which gave the variation 40° 7'; and nine others,
with Gregory's, wliich gave 40° !."»' west.

This day, at noon, being nearly in the latitude and longitude just mentioned, we thought
we saw land to the S.W. The appearance was so strong, that we doubted not it was there
in reality, a«'d tacked to work up to it accordingly ; having a light breeze at south, and
clear weath' r. We were, however, soon undeceived, by finding that it was only clouds ;
which, in the evening, entirely disappeared, and left us a clear horizon, so that we could see
a considerable way round us ; in wliich space nothing was to be seen but ice islands.

In the night, the Aurora Australis made a very brilliant and luminous appearance. It
was seen first in the east, a little above the horizon ; and, in a short time, spread over the
whole heavens. The 21st, in the morning, having little wind and a smooth sea, two favour-
able circu instances for taking up ice, I steered for the largest ice island before us, which we
reached by noon. At this time, we were in the latitude of iV.)" south, longitude J)2° 30' east ;
having, about two hours before, seen three or four penguins. Finding here a good quantity
of loose ice, I ordered two boats out, and sent them to take some on board. While this was
doing, the island, w hich was not less than half a mile in circuit, and three or four hundred

I'lai. i7;n.

it clii'cctioii,
1.; of r.7 J{'
iii^ wo saw
111 near tlio
li'ii^fcr look

•d to K. liy
i;,' fni|iK'nt
'( rciii' sky;
liu lu'ftvi'iis,
Mdrciilin, or
Tilt' oHicTi-
.iilar form ;
;eivo it liud
lio hoiivtiis,

■tl by noon.

vt-ry littlo
)ist out our
ll' Istt'il o\it

uikI small,
licy left tlio
9oa. This,
could liavo
n tlie wi'st.
shift to get
1, niid made
r veered to
iiong many
10 mercury

the scuttle
ite, I sliall

5, and fell

isc, in the

\" 14' east,
84^ 3.5'

Dut in the
took nine

inc others,

c thouffht
was there
south, and
ly clouds ;
D could see
ds.

rancc. It
id over the
wo favour-
which we
!" 30' east;
d quantity
Ic this was
ir hundred

Fk». 177n.

( OOKS SKlONH VOYAGE lUH'NO TIIK U'OUM).

rit;

feet high above tlio surfaee of the sea, turned marly Imttuni U]i. Its* luiglit, by this eireimi-
staiice, was neither increased nor dimiiiiyliid, aiiiMireiitiy. A'^ soon nn we hail got on board
as much ice as we couM dis|H»-.e of, we hiii>tid in tin- boats, and made sail to the S.I'., wilii
a gentle breeze at \. by K., attiiidi'd willi ••howiis of ^llow, and d. ik gloomy weather.
At this time, we had but few ice islands in night ; but the next day, sehUini less than twenty
or thirty were seen at oiiee.

The wind grailiially veered to the onst, ami, at Inst, fixing at V.. by S., blew a fresh gale.
With this, we stood to the south, till eight o'clock in the evening of the 23d ; at which time,
we were in the latitude (51 ;")«»' south, li)ii;:ituile {>."» '2' east. \Vi now tacked, and sjient
tiie night, which was exceedingly stormy, tliick, and lia/y, with sleet ami snow, in making
short boards. Surrounded on every side with ilaiig( r, it was natural for us to wisli for day-
light : this, when it came, served only to increase our a|i|irehensi(iiis, by exliil)iting to our
view those huge niouiitains of ice which, in the night, we hail |)assed witiiniit sceiiii;.

These unfavourable circumstances, together with dark nights, at this ailvanecd season of
the year, <niite disccuiraged me from i>uttiiig in execution a lonlutioii I had taken of cross-
ing the Antarctic circle once more. Accordingly, at four o'clock in the morning, we stood
to tlie north, with a very bard gale at I'.S.Iv, accompanied with snow ami shit, and a very
hiyh sea, from the same jioint, which made gnat destruction among the ice islands. This
circumstance, far from being of any ailvantage to us, greatly increased tlu! number of pieces
we had to avoid. Tiie largo ])ieces wliieli break from the ice islands are much more
dangerous than the islands themselves; the latter arc so hiidi out of water, that we can
generally sec them, unless the weather bo very thick and dark, before we are very near
them ; whereas the others cannot be seen in the night, till they are under the shiji's bows.
These dangers were, however, now become so familiar to us, that the apjmliensions they
caused were never of long duration, and were, in some measure, compensated, both by the
seasonable siip|ilies of fresh water these ice islands afforded us, (without which we must
liavebcon greatly distressed,) arid also by their very romantic a)>i)earance. greatly heightened
by vlio foaming and dashing of tlie waves into the curious holes and caverns which arc
formed in many of them ; tlic whole exhibiting a view which at once tilled the mind with
admiration and horror, and can only be describi'd by the baud of an able painter. Towards
the evening, the gale abated ; and in the night we had two or three hours' calm. This was
succeeded by a light breeze at west ; with which we stcred east, under all the sail wc could
set, meeting with many ice islands.

This night we saw a Port Egmont hen ; and next morning, being the 2.")th, another. AVo
had lately seen but few birds ; and those were albatrosses, sheer-waters, an<l blue pcterels.
It is remarkable, that wc did not see one of cither the white, or Antarctic pcterels, since wo
came last amongst the ice. Notwithstanding the wind kept at W. and N.W. all day, wo
had a very high sea from the oast ; by which wo concluded that no land could be near in chat
direction. In the evening, being in the latitude (!()^ 'il', longitude OiV 41' east, the variation
■was 4.3^ ()' west ; and the next morning, being the LNitli, having advanced about a degree
and a half more to the ea-t, it was 41" 30' ; both being dct'Tinined by several azimuths. Wo
had fair weather all the afternoon ; but the wind was unsettled, veering round by the north
to the east. With this, wo stood to the S. K. and E. till three o'clock in the afternoon ; when,
being in the latitude of (51" 21' south, longitude 07" 7\ wo tacked, and stood to the northward
and eastward, as the wind kept veering to the soutli. This, in the evening, increased to a
strong gale, blew in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and thick hazy weather, which
soon brought us under our close-reefed top-sails.

Between eight in the morning of the 2(ith and noon next day, we fell in among several
islands of ice; from whence such vast quantities had broken, as to cover the sea all round
ns, and render sailing rather dangerous. However, by noon, wis were clear of it all. In tho
evening the wind abated, and veered to S.AV. ; but the weather did not clear up till the next
morning ; when we were able to carry all our sails, and met with but very few islands of ice
to inii)edo ns. Probably the late gale had destroyed a great number of thetn. Such a very
iurge Ijollow sea had continued to accompany the wind, as it veered from E. to S.W., that I
was certivin no land of considerable extent could lie within 100 or 150 leagues of our situation
between these two points.

,11 'I

im''

366

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mahch, 1773.

1 t

'\.y

The mean Iieiglit of the thermometer at noon, for some days past, was about 35 ; which
is somctliing liiglier than it usually was, in the same latitude, about a month or five v,'eek9
before, consequently the air was something warmer. While the weather was really zcarm,
the gales were not only stronger, but more frequent ; with almost continual misty, dirty, wet
weather. The very animals wc had on board felt its effects. A sow having in the morning
farrowed nine pigs, every one of them was killed by the cold, before imv o'clock in the after-
noon, notwithstanding all the care we could take of them. From the sanio cause, myself, as
well as several of my people, had fingers and toes chilblained. Such is the summer weather
wo enjoyed.

The wind continued unsettled, veering from the south to the west, and blew a fresh gale
till the evening. Then it fell little wind ; and, soon after, a breeze sprung up at north ;
which quickly veered to N.E, and N.E. by E., attended with a thick fog, snow, sleet, and
rain. With this wind and weather, wc kei)t on to the S.E. till four o'clock in the afternoon
of the next day, being the 1st of 31arch, when it fell calm ; which continued for near twenty-
four hours. Wc were now in the latitude of (JO" 3(5' south, longitude lO/" 54' ; and had a
prodigious high swell from the iS.W., and, at the same time, another from tlic S. or S.S.E.
The dashing of the one wave against the other, made the siiii) both roll and pitch exceedingly;
but, at length, the N.W. swell jirevailcd. The calm continued till noon the next day, when
it was succeeded by a gentle bin.ze from S.E., which afterwards increased, and veered to S.W.
With this we steered N.E. by E., and E. by X., xnidcr all the sail we could set.

In the afternoon of the .3rd, being in latitude (!0^ 13', longitude 110" 18', the variation
was 39" 4', west. But the observations by which this was determined, were none of the
best ; being obliged to make use of such as we could get, during the very few and short
intervals when the sun appeared. A few penguins were seen this day, but not so many
islands of ice as usual. The weather was also milder, though very changpable ; thermometer
from 36 to 38. Wc continued to have a X.W, swell, although the wind was unsettled,
veering to N.E. by the west and north, attended with haze, sleet, and drizzling rain. Wo
prosecuted our cours-e to the cast, inclining to tlic south, till three o'clock in the afternoon of
the 4th, when (being in the latitude of (10' 37', longitude 113° 24') tho wind shifting at once
to S.W. and S.W. by S., I gave orders to steer E. by N. ^r X. But in the night wo steered
E. ^ S. in order to have tho wind, wiiieh was at S.S.W., more upon the beam ; the better to
enable us to stand back, in case we fi U in with any danger in the dark. For we had not so
much time to spare, to allow us to lie-to.

In the morning of the 5tli, wc steered E. by X. under all the sail we could set, passing
one ice island and n-.any smad pieces, and at nine o'clock the wind, which of late had not
remained long upon any one point, shifted all at once to cast, and blew a gentle gale. With
this we stood to the north, at which time we were in tlie latitude of (50" 44' south, and longi-
tude 116^ 50' east. The latitude w.ns determined by tin. meridian altitude of the sun, which
appeared, now and then, for a few minutes, till three in the afternoon. Indeed the sky was,
in general, so cloudy, and the weather so thick and ha>,y, that we had very little benefit of
sun or moon ; very seldom seeing the face of either the one or the other. And yet, even under
these circumstances, the weather for some days past could not be called very cold. It, how-
ever, had not the least pretension to be called summer weather, according to my ideas of
summer in the northern hemisphere, as far as GO" of latitude ; which is nearly as far north
as I have been.

In the evening we had three islands of ice in sight, all of them largo ; especially one, which
was larger than any we had yet seen. The side opposed to us seemed to be a mile in extent ;
if so, it could not be less than three in circuit. As we passed it in the night, a continual
cracking was heard, occasioned, rr- doubt, by pieces breaking from it. For, in the morning
of the 6th, the sea, for some distance round it, was covered with large and small pieces ; and
tho island itself did not appear so large as it had done the evening before. It could not be
less than 100 feet high ; yet such was the impetuous force and height of the waves, which
were broken against it, by meeting with such a sudden resistance, that they rose considerably
higher. In the evening, wo were in latitude 5!) 58' south, longitude 118^ 31)' east. The
7th, tho wind was variable in tho X.E. and S.E. quarters, attended with snow and sleet,

^Iaiich, 1773.

it 35 ; which
)r five v.'ceks
really icarm^
y, dirty, wet
the morning
in the after-
ic, myself, as
mer weather

' a fresh gale
ip at north ;
w, sleet, and
the afternoon
near twenty-
; and had a
S. or S.S.E.
exceedingly;
it day, when
jrcd to S.W.

the variation
none of the
w and short
not so many
thcrniometcr
IS unsettled,
y rain. Wo
afternoon of
fting at once
it we steered
the better to
u had not so

set, passing
ate had not
gale. With
1, and longi-
; sun, which
the sky was,
le benefit of
, even under
It, how-
niy ideas of
as far north

/ one, which
e in extent ;

a continual
;he morning
pieces ; and
ould not be
aves, which
considerably

cast. The
V and sleet,

March, 1773. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

307

till the evening. Then the weather became fair, the sky cleared up, and the night was
remarkably pleasant, as well as the morning of the next day ; which, for the brightness of
the sky, and serenity and mildness of the weather, gave place to nunc we had seen since wo
left the Cape of Good Hope. It was such as is little known in this sea ; and, to make it
still more agreeable, we had not one island of ice in sight. The mercury in the thermometer
rose to 40. Mr. Wales and the master made some observations of the moon and stars, wliich
satisfied us that, when our latitude was 59' 44', our longitude was 121" J>'. At three o'clock
in the afternoon, tlic calm was succeeded by a breeze at ^.E. The sky, at the same time,
was suddenly obscured, and seemed to presage an approaching storm, which accordingly
happened ; for, in the evening, the wind shifted to soutli, blew in squalls, attended with
sleet and rain, and a prodigious high sea. Having nothing to take care of but ourselves, wo
kept two or three points from the wind, and ran at a good rate to the E.N.E. under our two
courses, and close-reefed top-sails.

The gale continued till the evening of the 10th ; then it abated ; the wind sl.'ifted to the
westward ; and we had fair weather, and but little wind, during the night, attended with a
sharp frost. The next morning, being in the latitude of 5/" 5(5', longitude VMV, the wind
shifted to N.E. and blew a fresh gale, with which wo stood S.E., having frequent showers
of snow and sleet, and a long hollow swell from S.S. H. and S.E. by S. This swell did not
go down till two days after the wind which raised it had not only ceased to blow, but had
shifted, and blown fresh at opposite points, good part of the time. AVhoever attentively
considers this, must conclude, that there can be no land to the south, but what must be at
a great distance.

Notwithstanding so little was to be expected in that quarter, we continued to stand to the
south till three o'clock in tlie morning of the .12th, when wo were stopped by a calm ; oeing
then in the latitude of 50° 5(5' south, longitude 131" 2()' east. After a few hours' culm, a
breeze sprung up at west, with which we steered cast. The S.S.E. swell having gone down,
was succeeded by another from X.W. by W. The weather continued mild all this day, and
the mercury rose to .35)^. In the evening it fell calm, and continued so till three o'clock in
the morning of the 13th, when we got the wind at E. and S.E., a fnsli breeze, attended with
snow and sleet. In the afternoon it became fair, and the wind veered to S. and S.S.W. In
the evening, being then in the latit'ule of 58° 5i)', longitude 134", the weather was so clear
in the horizon, that we could sec many leagues round us. We had but little wind during
the night, some showers of snow, and a very sharp frost. As the day broke, the wind
freshened at S.E. and S.S.E., and soon after, the sky cleared up, and the weather became
clear and serene ; but the air continued cold, and the mercury in the thermometer rose only
one degree above th . freezing point. The clear weather gave ^Ir. AVales an opportunity to
get some observations of the sun and moon. Their results reduced to noon, when the lati-
tude was 58° 22' south, gave tis 13(5" 22' east longitude. j\[r. Kendal's watch, at tiic same
time, gave 1.34" 42' ; and that of Mr. Arnold, the same. This was the first and only time
they pointed out the same longitude, since we left England. The greatest dif^lirence, how-
ever, between them, since we left the Cape, had not much exceeded two degree .

Th ) moderate, and I might almost say, the pleasant weather we had, at times, for the last
two 01 three days, made me wish I had been a few degrees of latitude farther south, and
even tei.iptcd me to incline our course that way. But we soon had weather which convinced
us that «ve were full far enough ; and that the time was approaching, when these seas were
not to be navigated without enduring intense cold; which, by the bj-e, we were pretty well
use 1 to. In the afternoon, the serenity of the sky was presently obscured ; the wnul veered
round by the S.W. to W., and blew in hard squalL , attended with thick and heavy showers of
hail i nd snow, which continually covered our deck, sails, and rigging, till five o'clock in tho
eveniig of the 15th. At this time tho wind abated and shifted to S.E. ; the sky cleared up ;
and the evening was so serene and clear, that we could see many leagues round us ; the
horizon being the only boundary to our sight.

We were now in tho latitude of 59" 17 south, longitude 140" 12 east, and had such a
large hollow swell from W.S.W. as assured us that wo had left no land behind us in that
direction. I was also well assured that no land lay to the south on this side (iO" of latitude.

}

I, )( i

11,

:rr

:.{

nlUi

iv \

1 :

sua

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE M^ORLD. Mahch, 1773.

i ',

i «',

VTc li.ad a smart frost during the night, which was curiously ilhiniinatcd with the southern
lights.

At ten o'clock in the morning of the Idth, (which was as soon as the sun appeared,) in
the latitude of 58" .'51' south, our longitude was 14;{" 10' east. This good weather was, as
usual, of short duration. In the afternoon of this day, we had again thick snow showers ;
but at intervals it was tolerably clear; and in the evening, being iu the latitude of ;'>}{" 58'
south, longitude 144" 37' east, I found the variation, by several nziinuths, to be ;U" cast.
I was not a little pleased with being able to determine witii so much jirecision this point
of the lino, iu wliich the comjiass lias no variation. For I look upon half a degree as next
to nothing ; so that the interjiection of the latitude and longitude just mentioned may bo
reckoned the point, without any sensible error. At any rate, tlic line can only pass a very
small matter west of it.

I continued to steer to the east, inclining to the south, with a fresh gale at S.W. till five
o'clock the next morning, when, being in the latitude of 'M" 7 S., longitude 14(5" 53' E.,
I bore away N.E. and at noon north, having come to a resolution to quit the high southern
latitudes, and to jiroceed to New Zealand, to look for the Adventure, and to refresh my
people. I had also some thoughts, and even a desire, to visit the east coast of Van Diemen's
Land, in order to satisfy myself if it joined the coast of New Soutii NVales. In the night of
the 17th, the wind shifted to N.W. and blew in squalls, attended with thick hazy weather
and rain. This continued all the 18th, in the evening of which day, being in the latitude of
56" 15' S., longitude 150', the sky cleared up, and we found the variation by several azimuths
to be 13" 30' E. Soon after we hauled up with tlie log a piece of ruck-weed, which was in
.1 state of decay, and covered with barnacles. In the night the southern lights were very
bright.

Tiie next morning we saw a seal, and towards noon some penguins, and more rock-weed,
being at this time in the latitude of 55" 1', longitude 152" 1' E. In the latitude of .54" 4',
we also saw a Port-Egmont hen, and some weed. Navigators have generally looked upon
all these to be certain signs of the vicinity of land; I cannot, however, support this opinion.
At this time we knew of no land, noi is it even probable that there is any, nearer than New
Holland, or Van Diemen's Land, from which we were distant 2()0 leagues. We liad, at the
same time, several porpoises playing about us ; into one of which ^Ir. Cooper struck a
harpoon ; but, as the ship was running seven knots, it broke its hold, after towing it some
minutes, and before we could deaden the ship's way.

As the wind, whicii continued between the north and the west, would not permit me to
touch at Van Diemen's Land, I shaped my course to New Zealand ; and, being under no
apprehensions of meeting with any danger, I was not backward in carrying sail, as well by
night as day, having the advantage of a very strong gtilo, which was attended with hazy
rainy weather, and a very large swell from the W. and W.S.W. AVe continued to meet
with, now and then, a seal, Port-Egmont hens, and sea-weed. On the morning of the 22d,
the wind shifted to south, and brought with it fair weather. At noon, we found ourselves
in the latitude of 4i)' 5.'/, longitude 15!)' 28', having a very large swell out of tlie S.W.
For the three days past the mercury iu the thormouu'ter had risen to 4(i, and the weather
was quite mild. Seven or eight degrees of latitude iiad made a surprising dift'urencc in the
temperature of the air, whicli we felt with an agreeable satisfaction.

W'' '.•ontinued to advance to the N.E. at a good rate, having a brisk gale between the
south and east ; meeting with seals, Port-Egmout hens, egg-birc 3ea-weed, &c. and having
constantly a very largo swell from the S.W. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 25tli,
tlie land of New Zealand was seen from the mast-head ; and, at noon, from i'le deck ;
extending from N.E. by E. to east, distant ten leagues. As I intended to put into Dusky
Bay, or any other port I could find, on tlie soutlieru ])art of Tavai Poionam.aioo, wc steered
iu for th(! land, under all the sail we could carry, having the advantage of a fresh gale at
west, and tolerably cleiir wtatlier. This last was not of long duration ; for, at half an iioiir
after four o'clock, the land, wiiich was not above four mile:' u. taut, was in a manner wholly
obscured in a thick haze. At this time, we were before the entrance of a bay, which I had
mistaken for Dusky Bay, being deceived by some islands that lay in the mouth of it.

men, I?"",
c soutliem

)eared,) in
iiT was, as
I showors ;

of ;••»■• :a\'

D ;U" cast,
this point
roe as next
oil may bo
lass a very

SV". till five
40" ."iS' E.,
;li southern
refresh my
[\ Dienien's
he ni<fht of
zy weather
latitutle of
xl azimuths
lich was in
1 were veiy

roek-weed,
; of r»4" 4',
;)oked upon
his opinion.
r than New
had, at the
er struck a
in" it some

rmit me to

<T under no

as well by

with hazy

led to meet

f the 22d,

ourselves

tlie S.W.

10 weather

ncc in the

etween the
lud having
f the 'Jritii,
I'le deck ;
nto Dusky
wc steered
1 gale at
ilf an liiiur
ner wholly
lich I had
louth of it.

M Anon, 1773. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

noj»

Fearing to run, in thick weather, into a place to which wc were all strangers, and seeing
some breakers and broken groimd a- head, I tacked in twenty-five fathoms water, and
stood ont to sea with the wind at \.W. This bay lies on the S.E. side of Cape West, and
may be known by a white clitt' on one of the isles which lies in the entrance of the bay.
This part of the coast I did not see but at a great distance, in my former voyage ; .and we
now saw it tinder so many disadvantageous circumstances, that the less I say about it, the
fewer mistakes I shall make. We stood out to sea, under close-reefed tojj-sails and courses,
till eleven o'clock at night ; when we wore and stood to the northward, having a very high
and irregular sea. At five o'clock next nuirning, the gale abattnl, and wc boix* uj> for the
laud ; at eight o'clo<;k. the West Cape bore E. by N. ^ X. for which we steered, and
entered Dusky Bay about noon. In the entrance of it, we found 44 fathoms water, a sandy
bottom, the West Cape bearing S.S.E. and Five Fingers Point, or the north point of the
bay, north. Here we had a great swell rolling in from S.W. The depth of water decreased
to 40 fathoms; afterwards we had no ground with (50. We were, however, too far advanced
to return ; and therefore stood on, not doubting but that wc should find anchorage. For in
this bay wc were all strangers; in my former voyage, having done no more than discover,
and name it.

After running about two leagues up the bay, and passing several of the isles which lay in
it, I brought to, and iioisted out two boats ; one of which I sent away with an officer round
a point on the larboard hand, to look for anchorage. This he found, and signified the same
by signal. We then followed with the ship, and anchored in r)0 fathoms water, so near the
shore as to reach it with a hawser. This was (tn Friday the 2()th of March, at tlirec in
the afternoon, after having been Ijydays at sea; in which time we had sailed 30GO leagues,
without having once sight of land.

After such a long continuance at sea, in a high southern latitude, it is but reasonable to
think that many of my people must be ill of the scurvy. The contrary, however, happened.
Mention hath already been made of sweet wort being given to such as were scorbutic. This
had so far the desired effect, that we had only one man on board that could be called very
ill of this disease ; occasioned, chiefly, by a bad habit of body, and a complication of other
disorders. We did not attribute the general good state of health in the crew wholly to the
sweet wort, but to the frequent airing and sweetening the ship by fires, &c. We must also
allow portable broth, and sour krout to have had some share in it. This last can never be
enough recommended.

My first care, after the ship was moored, was to send a boat and people a-fishing ; in the
mean time, some of the gentlemen killed a seal (out of many that were upon a rock), which
made us a fresh meal.

CHAPTER IV. TRANSACTIONS IN DI'SKV HAY, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP SEVERAL INTERVIEWS

WITH THE IMIAUITANTS.

As I did not like the place we had anchored in, I sent Lieutenant Pickcrsgill over to
the S.E. side of the bay, to search for a better ; and I went myself to the other side, for the
same purj>ose, where I met with an exceedingly snug harbour, but nothing else worthy of
notice. Mr. Pickersgill reported, upon his return, that he had found a good harbour, with
every conveniency. As I liked the situation of this better than the other of my own finding,
I determined to go there in the morning. The fishing-boat was very successful ; returning
with fish sufficient for all hands for supper, and, in a few hours in the morning, caught as
many as served for dinner. This gave us certain h.opes of being plentifully supplied with
this article. Nor did the shores and woods appear less destitute of wild-fowl ; so that wo
hoped to enjoy with ease, what in our situation might be called the luxuries of life. This
determined me to stay some time in this bay, in order to examine it thoroughly; as no one
had ever landed before, on any of the southern parts of this country.

On the 27th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we got under sail with a light breeze at
S.W. and working over to Pickersgill Harbour, entered it by a channel scarcely twice the
width of the ship ; and, in a small creek, moored head and stern, so near the ohore as to

u n

870

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mabch, 1773.

fi .

i ■ I

reach it with a brow or stage, which nature had in a manner prepared for us in a large tree,
whose cud or top reached our gunwale. Wood, for fuel and other purposes, was here so
convenient, tliat our yards were locked in the branches of the trees; and, about 100 yarda
from our stern, was a fine stream of fresh water. Tims situated, we began to clear places
in the woods, in order to set up the astronomer's o! servatory, the forge to repair our iron
work, tents for the sail-nitakers and coopers to repair the sails and casks in ; to land our
empty casks, to fill water, and to cut down wood for fuel ; all of whicii were absolutely
necessary occupations. We also began to brew beer from the brandies or leaves of a tree,
which much resembles the American black spruce. From the knowledge I had of this tree,
and the similarity it bore to the spruce, I judged that with the addition of insjjissated juice
of wort and m(dasses, it would make a very wholesome beer, and supply the want of
vegetables, which this place did not aflford ; and the event proved that I was not mis-
taken.

Now I have mentioned the inspissated juice of wort, it will not be amiss, in this place,
to inform the reader that I had made several trials of it since I left the Cape of Good Hope,
and found it to answer in a cold climate, beyond all expectation. The juice, diluted in warm
water, in the proportion of twelve parts water to one part juice, made a very good and well-
tasted small beer. Some juice whicli I had of Mr. Pelham's own preparing, would bear
sixteen parts water. By making use of warm water, (which I think ought always to be
done,) and keejiing it in a warm place, if the weatiier be cold, no difficulty will be found
in fermenting it. A little grounds of either small or strong beer will answer as well as
yeast.

The few sheep and goats we had left were not likely to fare quite so well as ourselves ;
there being no grass here, but what was coarse and harsh. It was, however, not so bad,
but that we expected tliey would devour it with great greediness, and were the more sur-
prised to find that they would not taste it ; nor did they seem over-fond of the leaves of more
tender plants. Upon examination, we found their teeth loose ; and that many of them had
every other symptom of an inveterate sea-scurvy. Out of four ewes and two rams which I
brought from the Cape, with an intent to put ashore in this country, I had only been able
to preserve one of each ; and even these were in so bad a state, that it was doubtful if they
could recover, notwithstanding all the care possible had been taken of them.

Some of the officers, on the 28th, went up the bay in a small boat on a shooting party ;
but discovering inhabitants, they returned before noon, to acquaint me therewith ; for hitherto
we had not seen the least vestige of any. They had but jus^t got aboard, when a canoe
appeared off a point about a mile fi'om us, and soon after returned behind tlie point out of
sigiit, probably owing to a sliower of rain which then fell : for it was no sooner over, than
the canoe again appeared, and came within muskot-shotof the ship. Tiiere were in it seven
or eight people, Tliey remained looking at us for some time, and then returned ; all the
signs of friendshij) we could make, did not prevail on tlicm to come nearer. After dinner I
took two boats and went in search of them, in tlie cove wliere they were first seen, accom-
panied by several of the officers and gentlemen. We found the canoe (at least a canoe)
hauled upon the shore near to two small Iiuts, where were several fire-places, some fishing-nets,
a few fish lying on the shore, and some in the canoe. But we saw no people ; they, probably,
had retired into the woods. After a short stay, and leaving in the canoe some medals, look-
ing-glasses, beads, &c., we embarked and rowed to tl: head of the cove, where we found
nothing remarkable. In returning back we put ashore at the same place as before ; but still
saw no people. However, they could not be far off, as we smelled the smoke of fire, though
wo did not see it. But I did not care to search farther, or to force an interview which they
seemed to avoid ; well knowing that the way to obtain this, was to leave the time and place
to themselves. It did not appear that anything I had left had been touched ; however, I
now added a hatcliet, and witli the night returned on board. On the 29th, were showers
till the afternoon ; when a party of the officers made an excursion up the bay ; and Mr.
Forster and his party were out botanising. Both parties returned in the evening without
meeting with anything worthy of notice ; and the two following days, every one was confined
to tlie ship on account of rainy stormy weather.

BCH, 1773.

large tree,
as here so

100 yards
;lear places
lir our iron
to land our
; absolutely
?s of a tree,
of this tree,
ssated juice
,he want of
:as not inis-

1 this place,
Good Hope,
ted in warm
od and well-
would bear
ilways to be
rill be found
'X as well as

IS ourselves ;
, not so bad,
he more sur-
eaves of more
r of them had
•ams which I
ily been able
ibtful if they

loting party ;
; for hitherto
fhen a canoe
point out of
er over, than
(re in it seven
■ncd ; all the
Lfter dinner I
seen, accom-
cast a canoe)
J fishing-nets,
ey, probably,
medals, look-
icrc we found
ore ; but still
»f fire, though
w which they
me and place
however, I
were showers
ay ; and Mr.
iuing without
was confined

Aphil, 1773. COOK'S SECOND VOYACR ROUND THE WORLD.

371

In the afternoon of the 1st of April, accompanied by several of the gentlemen, T went to
see if any of the articles I had left for the Indians were taken away. We found every
thing remaining in the canoe ; nor did it a]>pear that anyboily had been there since. After
shooting some birds, one of which was a duck, with a bhie-grcy phmiage and soft bill, wo,
in the evening, returned on board. Tlie 2nd, being a pleasant iiiorning. Lieutenants Clerko
and Edgcumb, and the two ^Fr. Forsters, went in a boat up the bay to search for tlie produc-
tions of nature ; and myself, Lieutenant Pickcrsgill, and Mr. Ilodgrs, went to take a view
of the N.W. side. In our way, we touched at the seal rock, and killed three seals, one of
which afforded us much sport. After passing several isles, we at length canio to the most
northern and western arms of the bay; the same as is formed by the land of Five Finffera
Point. In the bottom of this arm or cove we found many durks, wood-lieu.^, ami other wild
fowl, some of which we killed, and returned on board at ten o'clock in the cvininfr ; wlicro
the other party had arrived several hours before us, after having had but iudiflerent sport.
They took with them a black dog we had got at tlie Cape, who, at the first musket they
fired, ran into the woods, from whence he would not return. The three following days were
rainy, so that no excursions were made.

Early in the morning on the Gth, a shooting party, made up of the oflicers, went to Goose
Cove, the place where I was the 2nd ; and myself, accompanied by the two ]\Ir. Forsters and
Mr. Ilodges, set out to continue the survey of tlie bay. jMy attention was directed to the
north side, where I discovered a fine capacious cove, in the bottom of wliich is a fresh water
river ; on the west side several beautiful small cascades ; and the shores are so steep that a
ship might lie near enough to convey the water into her by a hose. In this cove wo shot
fourteen ducks, beside other birds, which occasioned my calling it Duck Cove.

As we returned in the evening, we had a short interview with three of t!ie natives, one
man and two women. They were the first that discovered thempolves on the N.E. point of
Indian Island, named so on this occasion. AVe should have passed witliout seeing them, had
not the man hallooed to us. He stood with his club in his hand upon the point of a rock,
and behind him, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, with each of them a spear.
The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when we approached the rock with
our boat. He, however, stood firm ; nor did he move to take up some things we threw
him ashore. At length I landed, went up, and embraced him ; and presented him with
such articles as I had about me, which at once dissipated his fears. Presently after, we were
joined by the two women, the gentlemen that were with me, and some of the seamen. After
this, we spent about half an hour in chit-chat, little understood on cither side, in which tho
youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This occasioned one of the seamen
to say, that women did not want tongue in any part of the world. AVe presented them
with fish and fowl which we had in our boat ; but these they threw into the boat again,
giving us to understand that such things they wanted not. Night approaching, obliged us
to take leave of them ; when the youngest of the two women, whose v )lubility of tonguo
exceeded every thing I ever met with, giive us a dance ; but the man viewed us with great
attention. Some hours after we got on board, the other party returned, having had but
indifferent sport.

Next morning, I made the natives another visit, accompanied by Mr. Forster and Mr.
Ilodges, carrying with me various articles which I presented them with, ami which they
received with a great deal of indifference, except hatchets and spike-nails ; these they most
esteemed. This interview was at the same place as last niyht , and now we saw the whole
family. It consisted of the man, his two wives (as we suiiimscd), the ynung woman bofno
mentioned, a boy about fourteen years old, and three small cliildicn, the younge>t of wliiili
was at the breast. Thev were all well-looking, except one woman, who had a laigo won on
her upper lip, which made her look disagreeable ; and she seemed, on that account, to be in
a great measure neglected by the man. They conducted us to tl^eir habitation, which was
but a little way within the skirts of the wood, and consisted of V.vo mean huts made of tho
bark of trees. Their canoe, which was a smril double one, just large enough to trans))ort

small creek near the huts.

family

place to pla

lay

niriiig

stay,

•■ r

'Ml';'

'■■{

^ 1^

I •

w '

Mr. Ilodges made drawings of most of them : this occasioneu them to give him the name of

n n

872

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE H'ORLD.

Ai'Rii., M'^.

;i!

Ji^'

i-i'

:-i

.,/l ,

' ']

■■ i

Toe-toe, wliicli word, wc supposed, signifies marking or painting. Wlien wc took leave, the
chief i>respiitecl nio with a piece of cloth or garment of their own manufacturing, and some
other trifles. I at first thought it was meant as a return for the presents I had made him ;
but he soon undeceived me, hy exj)rcssing a desire for one of our boat cloaks, I took the
hint, and ordered one to bo made for him of red baize, as soon as I got aboard ; where rainy
weather detained mc the following day.

Tiic 9th, being fair weather, wo paid the natives another visit, and made known our
approach by hallooing to them ; but they neither answered us, nor met us at the shore as
usual. The reason of tliis we soon saw ; for we found them at their habitations, all dressed
and dressing, in their very best, with their hair combed and oiled, tied up upon the crowns
of their heads, and stuck with white feathers. Some wore a fillet of feathers round their
heads ; and all of them had bundles of white feathers stuck in their ears : thus dressed, and
all standing, they received us with great courtesy. I presented the chief with the cloak I
bad got made for him, witii which he seemed so well pleased, that he took his pattapattou
from iiis girdle, and gave it me. After a short stay, we took leave ; and having spent
the remainder of the day in continuing my survey of tlie bay, with the night returned on
board,

A^'ry heavy rains falling on the two following days, no work was done; but the 12th
proved clear and serene, and afforded us an opportunity to dry our sails and linen, two things
very much w.anted, not having had fair weather enough for this j)urpose since wc put into
this bay, Mr. Forster and his party also profited by the day in botanising.

About ten o''clock, the family of the natives paid us a viisit. Seeing that they approached
the ship with great caution, I met them in a boat, which I quitted when 1 got to them, and
went into their canoe. Yet, after all, I could not prevail on them to put alongside the ship,
and at last was obliged to leave them to follow their own inclination. At length they put
ashore in a little creek hard by us, and afterwards came and sat down on the shore abreast
of the ship, near enough to speak with us. I now caused the bagpipes and fife to play, and
the drum to beat. Tlie two first they did not regard, but the latter caused some little atten-
tion in them ; nothing, however, could induce them to come on board. But they entered,
with great familiarity, into conversation (little understood) with such of the officers and
seamen as went to them, paying much greater regard to some than to others, and these we
had reason to believe they took for women. To one man, in particular, the young woman
showed an extraordinary fondness until she discovered his sex, after which she would not
suffer him to come near her. Whether it was that she before took him for one of her own
sex ; or that the man, in order to discover himself, had taken some liberties with her which
she thus resented, I know not.

In the afternoon, I took JMr. Ilodgcs to a large cascade, wliich falls from a high mountain
on the south side of tlie bay, about a league above the place where we lay. He took a drawing
of it on paper, and afterwards painted it in oil-colours ; which exhibits, at once, a better
description of it than any I can give. Huge heaps of stones lay at the foot of this cascade,
which had been broken off and brought by the stream from the adjacent mountains. These
stones were of different sorts ; none, however, Jiccording to Mr. Forster's opinion (who I
believe to be a judge), contains either minerals or metals. Nevertheless, I brought away
specimens of every sort, as the whole country, that is, the rocky part of it, seemed to consist
of those stones and no other. This cascade is at the east point of a covt, lying in S.W. two
miles, which I named Cascade Cove. In it is good anchorage and other necessaries. At
the entrance, lies an island, on each side of which is a passage ; that on the cast side is much
the widest. A little above the isle, and near the S.E. shore, are two rocks, which are
covered at high water. It was in this cove wc first saw the natives.

When I returned aboard in the evening I found our friends the natives had taken up
their quarters about 100 yards from our watering-place ; a very great mark of the con-
fidence they placed in us. This evening a shooting party of the officers went over to the
north side of the bay, having with them a small cutter to convey them from place to place.
Next morning, accompanied by Mr, Forster, I went in the pinnace to survey the isles and
rocks which lie in the mouth of the bay. I began first with those which lie on the S.E.

I'Hir, 177-3.

k leave, the
r, and some
made him ;
I took tho
,vherc rainy

known our
he shore as
all dressed
tlie crowns
round their
Iressed, and
the cloak I
pattapattou
aving spent
returned on

ut the 12tli
, two things
wc put into

' approached
,o them, and
ide the ship,
Ith they put
ihore abreast
to play, and
c little atten-
hey entered,

oificers and
uid these we
ounff woman
e would not

of her own
;h her which

gh mountain
»k a drawing
nee, a better
this cascade,
ains. These
inion (who I
rough t away
led to consist
in S.W. two
(ssaries. At
side is much
, which are

ad taken up
of the con-
t over to the
ace to place,
the isles and
! on the S.E.

ApniL, 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

373

side of Anchor Isle. I found hero a very snug cove sheltered from all winds, which wo
called Luncheon Cove, because here wc dined on cray-fish, on the side of a pleasant brook,
shaded by the trees from both wind and sun. After dinner we proceeded, by rowing, out
to the outermost isles, where we saw many seals, fourteen of wliich we killed and brought
away with us ; and might have got many more, would the surf have permitted us to land
with safety on all the roeks. The next morning, I went out again to continue the survey,
accompanied by Mr. Forster. I intended to have landed again on the seal isles ; but there
ran such a high sea that I could not come near them. With some difficulty we rowed out
to sea, and round the S. W. point of Anchor Isle. It happened very fortunately that chance
directed me to take this course, in which we found tiie sportsmen's boat adrift, and liiid
hold of her the very mcjnent she would have been dashed against the rocks. I was not
long at a loss to guess how she came there, nor was I under any apprehensions for tlio
gentlemen that had been in her ; and, after refreshing ourselves with such as wo had to eat
and drink, and securing tho boat in a small creek, we prov^eded to the place where wo
supposed them to be. This we reached about seven or eight o'clock in the cvcnintf, and
found them upon a small isle in Goose Cove, where, as it was low water, wo could not come
with our boat until the return of the tide. As this did not happen till three o'clock in the
morning, we landed on a naked beach, not knowing where to find a better place, and, after
some time, having got a fire and broiled some fish, we made a hearty supper, having for
sauce a good appetite. This done, we lay down to sleep, having a stony beach for a
bed, and the canopy of heaven for a covering. At length tlic tide permitted us to take off
the sportsmen ; and with them we embarked, and proceeded for the place where we had left
their boat, which we soon reached, having a fresh breeze of wind in our favour, attended with
rain. AVhcn we came to the creek, which waff on the N.W. side of Anchor Isle, wo found
there an immense number of blue peterels, some on the wing, others in the woods, in holes
in the ground, under the roots of trees, and in the crevices of rocks, where there was no
getting them, and where we supposed their young were deposited. As not one was to bo
seen in the day, the old ones w^ere probably at that time out at sea searching for food, which
in tlie evening they bring to their young. Tiio noise they made was like the croaking of
many frogs. They were, I believe, of the broad-bill kind, wliich are not so commonly seen
at sea as the others. Here, however, they are in great numbers ; and flying much about
in the night, some of our gentlemen at first took them for bats. After restoring the sports-
men to their boat, we all proceeded for the ship, which wo reached by seven o'clock in tiio
morning, not a little fatigued with our expedition. I now learned that our friends tho
natives returned to their habitation at night, probably foreseeing that rain was at hand ;
which sort of weather continued the whole of this day.

On the morning of the lotli, the weather having cleared up and become fair, I set out
with two boats to continue the survey of the N.W. side of the bay, acconijiauied by tho two
Mr. Forsters and several of the officers, whom I detached in one boat to Goose Cove, whero
we intended to lodge the night, while I proceeded in the other, examining tiie harbours and
isles wliich lay in my way. In the doing of this, I picked up about a score of wild-fowl,
and caught fish suthcient to serve the whole party; and, reaching the place of rendezvous
a little before dark, I found all the gentlemen out duck-shooting. They, however, soon
returned, not overloaded with game. By this time the cooks had done their parts, in which
little art was required ; and after a hearty repast on what the day had i)roduced, wc lay
down to rest ; but took care to rise early the next morning, in order to have the other bout
among the ducks, before we left the cove.

Accordingly, at daylight, we prepared for the attack. Those who had reconnoitred the
place before, chose their staticms accordingly; whilst myself and another remained in the
boat, and rowed to the head of the cove to start the game ; which we did so effijctually,
that, out of some scores of ducks, we only detained one to ourselves, sending all tlic rest
down to those stationed below. After this, I landed at the head of the cove and walked
across the narrow isthmus that disjoins it from the sen, or rather from another cove which
runs in from the sea about one mile, and lies open to tho north winds. It, however, had all
the appearance of a good harbour and safe anchorage. At the head ia a fine sandy beach.

( ■• I

i,i*

n li

974

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE ^VORLD. ArniL, 1773.

•' ■

i!l

wljoro I found an immcnso number of woou-hcns, and brought away ten couple of them,
which reconii)cnsed mo for the trouble of crossing the isthmus, through the wet woods, up
to tlie middle in water. About nine o'clock, we all got collected together, when the success
of every one was known ; which was by no means answerable to our expectations. The
morning, indeed, was very unfavourable for shooting, being rainy the most of the time wo
were out. After breakfast, we set out on our return to tlie ship, which we reached by seven
o'clock in the evening ; witli about seven dozen of wild-fowl, and two seals ; the most of
them shot while I was rowing about, exploring the harbours and coves which I found in my
way; every place affording something; especially to us, to whom nothing came amiss.

It rained all the 17th ; but the IHth bringing fair and clear weather, in the evening, our
friends the natives before- mentioned ])aid us another visit ; and the next morning, the chief
and his daughter were induced to come on board, while the others went out in the canoo
fishing. Before they came on board, I showed them our goats and sheep that were on
shore ; which they viewed, for a moment, with a kind of stupid insensibility. After this,
I conducted them to the brow; but before the chief set his foot upon it to come into the
ship, ho took a small green branch in his hand, with which he struck the ship's side several
times, repeating a speech or prayer. AVhen this was over, he threw the branch into the
main chains, and came on board. Tliis custom and maimer of making peace, as it were, is
practised by all the nations in the South Seas that I have seen. I took them both down
into tho cabin, where we were to breakfast. They sat at table with us, but would not
taste any of our victuals. Tlie chief wanted to know where we slept, and, indeed, to pry
into every corner of the cabin, every part of which he viewed with some surprise. But it
was not possible to fix his attention to any one thing a single moment. The works of art
aj)peared to liim in the same light as those of nature, and were as far removed beyond his
comprehension. What seemed to strike them most was the number and strength of our
decks, and other parts of the ship. The chief, before he came aboard, presented me with
a piece of cloth and a green talc hatchet ; to Mr. Forster he also gave a piece of cloth ; and
the girl gave another to JMr. Hodges. This custom of making presents, before they receive
any, is common with the natives of the South Sea Isles ; but I never saw it practised in New
Zealand before. Of all tho various articles I gave my guest, hatchets and spike-nails were
the most valuable in his eyes. These ho never would suffer to go out of his hands after he
had once laid hold of them ; wliereas many other articles he would lay carelessly down any-
wliere, and at last leave them behind him. As soon as I could get quit of them, they were
conducted into the gun-room, where I left them, and set out with two boats to examine tho
liead of tlie bay; myself in one, accompanied by ilr. Forster and JMr. Ilodges; and Lieu-
tenant Cooper in the other. We proceeded up the south side ; and, without meeting with
anything remarkable, got to the head of the bay by sunset ; where we took up our lodging
fir tlie night at tlie first place we could land upon ; for the flats hindered us from getting
quite to the head.

At daylight in the morning, I took two men in the small boat, and, with Mr. Forster,
went to take a view of the flat land at the head of the bay, near to where we spent the
night. We landed on one side, and ordered the boat to meet us on the other side ; but had
not been long on shore before we saw some ducks, which by their creeping through the
bushes, we got a shot at, and killed one. The moment we had fired, tlie natives, whom we
had not discovered before, set u]) a most hideous noise in two or three places close by us.
We hallooed in our turn ; and, at the same time, retired to our boat, which was full half-a-mile
off. The natives kept up their clamouring noise, but did not follow us. Indeed we found,
al'terwards, that they could not, because of a branch of the river between us and them ; nor
did we find their numbers answerable to t!ie noise they m.ade. As soon as we got to our
boat, and found that there was a river that would admit us, I rowed in, and was soon after
joined by ]\Ir. Cooper, in the other boat. With this reinforcement I proceeded up the
river, shooting wild ducks, of which there were great numbers; as we went along, now and
tlien, hearini; the natives in tho woods. At length two appeared on the banks of the river,
a man and a woman ; and the latter kept waving something wliite in her hand, as a sign of
friendship. Mr. Cooper being near thoui, I called to him to land, as I wanted to take tha

Arnii,, 1773.

ilo of tliem,
it woods, up
ri the 8UCCC88
itions. Tlie
tlio time wo
lied by seven

the must uf
found iu my
i amiss,
evening, our
ing, the chief
in the canoo
that were on

After this,
onic into the
i side several
nch into the
IS it were, is
n both down
it would not
deed, to pry
rise. But it
works of art
d beyond his
cngth of our
ited me with
){ cloth ; and
I they receive
!tised in New
ke-nails were
ands after he
ly down any-
in, they were
I examine the
9 ; and Lieu-
meeting with
1 our lodging
from getting

Mr. Forster,
we spent the
lide ; but had

through the
es, whom wo
3 close by us.
ill half-a-milo
ed we found,
d them ; nor
ve got to our
•as soon after
icded up the
)ng, now and
I of the river,
, as a sign of
d to take tho

April, 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAt;K HOUND THE WOULD.

375

advantage of the tide to get as high up as possible, which did not much exceed half-a-mi|e,
when I was stopped by the strength of the stream and great stones which lay iu tiiu bed of
the river.

On my return, I found that, as Mr. Cooper did not land when the natives expected him,
they had retired into the woods : but two others now apix'ared (m tlie opposite bank. I
endeavoured to liave an interview with them ; but this I could not etlect. Tor, as I
approached the shori; they always retired farther into the woods, which were so thick as to
cover them from our sight. The falling tide obliged nu) to retire out of the river, to tho
place where we had spent the night. There we breakfasted, and afterwards embarked, in
order to return on board ; but, just as we were going, we saw two men, on the opposite
shore, hallooing to us, which induced me to row over to them. 1 landed, with two otiiers,
unarmed ; the two natives standing about KM) yards from the water side, with each a spear
in his hand. When we three advanced, they retired ; but stood when I advanceil alone. It
was some little time before I could prevail upon them to lay down their spears : this, at last,
one of them did, and met me with a grass plant in his hand, one end of which ho gave nio
to hold, while he held the other : standing in this manner, ho began a speech, not one word
of which I xuiderstood ; and made some long ])auses ; waiting, as I thought, for me to
answer; for when I spoke he proceeded. As soon as this ceremony was over, which was
not long, we saluted each other. lie then took his hahou, or coat, from off his own back,
and put it upon mine ; after which, peace seenu'd firndy established. INIore people joining
us did not in the least alarm them ; on the contrary, they saluted every one as he came up.

I gave to each a hatchet and a knife, having nothing else with me : perhaps these were the
most valuable things I could give them • at least they were the most useful. They wanted
us to go to their habitation, telling us they .would give us something to cat ; and I was
sorry that the tide, and other circumstances, would not permit me to accept of their invita-
tion. More people were seen in the skirts of the wood, but none of them joined us ; probably
these were their wives and children. When we took leave they followed us to our boat, and
seeing the muskets lying across the stern, they made signs for them to be taken away ;
which being done, they came alongside, and assisted us to launch her. At this tinu?, it was
necessary for us to look well after them, for they wanted to take away everything they
could lay their hands upon, excej)t the muskets ; these they took care not to touch, being
taught, by the slawghter they had seen us make among the wild-fowl, to look upon them as
instruments of death.

We saw no canoes or other boats with them ; two or three logs of wood tied together
served the same purpose ; and were indeed sufficient for the navigation of the river, on the
banks of which they lived. There fish and fowl were in such plenty, that they had no occa-
sion to go far for food ; and they have but few neighbours to disturb them. The whole
number, at this place, I believe, does not exceed three families. It was noon when we took
leave of these two men, .and proceeded down the north side of the bay ; which I exjdored in
my way, and the isles that lie in the middle ; night, however, overtook us, and obliged me
to leave one arm unlooked into, and hasten to the sliij), which we reached by eight o'clock,
I then learnt that the man and his daughter staid on board the day before till noon ; and
that, having understood from our ])cople what things were left in Cascade Cove, the place
where they were first seen, he sent and took them aw;.y. He and his family remained near
us till to-day, when they all went aw.av, and we saw them no more ; which was the more
extraordinary, as he never left us cmjity-liaiided. From one or another he did not get less
than nine or ten hatchets, three or four times tluit number of large spike-nails, besides many
other articles. So far as these things may be counted riches in New Zealand, he exceeds every
man there ; being at this time possessed of more hatchets and axes than are in the whole
country besides.

In the afternoon of the 21st, I went with a party out to the isles on seal-hunting. The
surf ran so high that wo could only land in one place, where we killed ten. These animals
served us for three purposes ; the skins we made use of for our rigging ; the fat gave oil for
our lamps ; and the flesh we ate. Their harslets are equal to that of a hog, and the flesh of
some of them cats little inferior to beef-steaks. The following day nothing worthy of notice

: i

i ! ■ tl

070

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1773.

I si.

f,'

was done. In tlie morning of the 23nl, Mr. Pickersgill, Mr. Gilbert, and two others, went
to the Cascade Covc>, in order to ascend one of the mountains, the summit of which they
reached by two o'chick in the afternoon, as we couM see by the fire they made. In the
evening they returned on board, and reported, that inhind nothing was to be seen but barren
mountains, with liuge craggy precipices, disjoined by vaUeys, or rather charms, frightful to
behold. On the S.E. side of Cape West, four miles out at sea, they discovered a ridge of
rocks, on which the waves broke very high. I believe these rocks to be the same we saw
the evening we first fell in with the land.

Having five geese left out of those we brought from the Cape of Good Hope, I went with
them next morning to Goose Cove (named so on this account), where I left them. I chose
this place for two reasons ; first, hero are no inhabitants to disturb tluMn ; and secondly, here
being the most food. I make no doubt but that they will breed, and may in time spread
over the whole country, and fully answer my intention in leaving them. We spent the day
shooting in and about the Cove, and returned aboard about ten o'clock in the evening. One
of the party shot a white hern, which agreed exactly with Mr. Pennant's description, in his
British Zoology, of the white herns that either now are, or were formerly, in England.

The 25th was the eighth fair day wo had had successively ; a circumstance, I believe, very
uncommon in this place, especially at this season of the year. This fair weather gave us an
opportunity to complete our wood and water, to overhaul the rigging, calk the ship, and put
her in a condition for sea. Fair weather was, however, now at an end ; for it began to rain
this evening, and continued, without intermission, till noon the next day, when we cast off
the sliore-fasts, hove the ship out of the cieek to her anchor, and steadied her with a hawser
to the shore. On the 27th hazy weather, with showers of rain. In the morning I set out,
accompanied by Mr. Pickersgill and the two Mr. Forsters, to exjilore the arm or inlet I dis-
covered the day 1 returned from the head of the bay. After rowing about two leagues up
it, or rather down, I found it to communicate with the sea, and to afford a better outlet for
ships bound to the north, than the one I came in by. After making this discovery, and
refreshing ourselves on broiled fish and wild-fowl, we sot out for the ship, and got on board
at eleven o'clock at night ; leaving two arms we liad discovered, and which run in the east,
unexplored. In this expedition we shot forty-four birds, sea-pics, ducks, &c. without going
one foot out of our way, or causing any other delay than picking tliem up.

Having got the tents and every other article on board on the 28th, we only now waited
for a wind to carry us out of the harbour, and through New Passage, the way I proposed to
go to sea. Everything being removed from the shore, I set fire to the top-wood, &c., in
Older to dry a piece of the ground we had occupied, which, next morning, I dug up, and sowed
with several sorts of garden seeds. The soil was such as did not promise success to the
planter ; it was, however, the best we could find. At two o'clock in the afternoon, we
weighed with a light breeze, at S.W., and stood up the bay for the new passage. Soon
after we had got through, between the east end of Indian Island and the west end of Long
Island, it fell calm, which obliged us to anchor in forty-three fathom water, under the north
side of the latter island. In the morning of the 30th we weighed again with a light breeze
at west, which, together with all our boats a-head tow'.ng, was iiardly sufficient to stem the
current ; for, after struggling till six o'clock m the evening, and not getting more than five
miles from our List anchoring-placc, we anchored under the north side of Long Island, not
more tlian one hundred vards from the shore, to which we fastened a hawser.

At daylight next morning, May Ist, we got again under sail, and attempted to work to
windward, having a light breeze down the bay. At first we gained ground ; but at last the
breeze died away; when we soon lost more tiian we had got, and were obliged to bear up
for a cove on the north side of Long Island, where we anchored in nineteen fathom water,
a muddy bottom ; in this cove we found two huts not long since inhabited ; and near them
two very large fire-places or ovens, such as they have in the Society Isles. In this cove we
were detained by calms, attended with continual rain, till the 4th, in the afternoon, when,
witii the assistcance of a small breeze at S.W., we got the length of the reach or passage
leading to sea. The breeze then left us, and we anchored under the east point, before a
sandy beach, in thirty fathoms' water ; but this anchoring place hath nothing to recommend

Iav, 1773.

Iiers, went
■Inch they
7. In the
but barren
rightful to
a ridge of
no wo saw

went with
I chose
ndly, here
line spread
nt the day
ling. One
bion, in his
;hvnd.

ilieve, very
Tave us an
ip, and put
gan to rain
we cast oflF
ih a hawser
y I set out,
inlet I dis-
leagues up
r outlet for
overy, and
}t on board
in the east,
hout going

low Avaited

proposed to

od, &c., in

and sowed

cess to the

jrnoon, we

Soon

nd of Long

the north

gilt breeze

o stem the

e than five

Island, not

to work to

at last the

to bear up

lom water,

near them

lis cove we

oon, when,

or passage

t, before a

recommend

May, 1773.

COOK'S SECON'I) VOYACJK IlOrND THE WORLD.

377

it like the one wo camo from, which hath everything in its favour. In the night we had
some very heavy squalls of wind, attended with rain, hail, and snow, and some thunder.
Daylight exhibited to our view all the hills and niountaiiiH covered with snow. At two
o'clock in the afternoon, a light breeze (ijirung up at S.S.W., wiiieli, with the lielj) of our
boats, carried us down the passage to our intended auehoriug-iilace, where, at eight o'clock,
we anchored in sixteen fathoms' water, and moored, with a hawser to the shore, under the
first point on the starboard side, as you come in from sea ; from which we were covered by
the point.

In the morning of the (itii, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill, accomjianied by the two Mr.
Forsters, to explore the second arm which turns into the east, myself being confined on board
by a cold. At the same time, I had everything got u]> from between deekw, the decks well
cleaned and well aired with fires ; a thing that ought never to be long neglected in wet moist
weather. The fair weather which had continued all this day, was succeeded in the night by
a storm from N.W., which blew in hard squalls, attended with rain, and obliged us to strike
top-gallant and lower yards, and to carry out another hawser to the shore. The bad wiather
continued the whole day and the succeeding night, after which it fell calm with fair weather.

At seven in the morning, on the {Uli, ^Ir. I'ickersgill returned, together with his com-
panions, in no very good ])light ; having been at the head of the arm he was sent to exjilore,
which he judged to extend into the eastward about eight miles ; in it is a good anchoring-
place, wood, fresh water, wild fowl, and fish. At nine o'clock I set out to explore the
other inlet, or the one next the sea ; and ordered ]\Ir. Gilbert, the master, to go and examine
the passage out to sea, while those cm board were getting everything in readiness to depart. I
proceeded up the inlet till five o'clock in the afternoon, when bad wither obliged me to return,
before I had seen the end of it. As this inlet lay nearly parallel with the sea-coast, I was of
opinion that it might communicate with Doubtful Harbour, or some other inlet to the
northward ; appearances were, however, against this opinion, and the bad weather hindered
me from determining the point, although a few hours would have done it : I was about ten
miles up, and thought I saw the end of it : I found on the north side three c t'cs, in which,
as also on the south side, between the main and the isles that lie about four miles up the
inlet, is good anchorage, wood, water, and what else can be expected, such as fish and wild-
fowl; of the latter we killed, in this excursion, three dozen. After a very hard row, against
both wind and rain, we got on board about nine o'clock at night, without a dry thread on
our backs.

This bad weather continued no longer than till the next morning, when it became fair,
and the sky cleared up ; but as we had not wind to carry us to sea, we made up two shooting
parties ; myself, accompanied by the two Mr. Forsters and some others, went to the arm I
was in the day before ; and the other party to the coves and isles Mr. Gilbert had discovered
when he was out, and where he found many wild-fowl. AVe had a jileasant day, and the
evening brought us all on board ; myself and ])arty met with good sport ; but the other
party found little. All the forenoon of the lOtli, we bad strong gales from the west,
attended with heavy showers of rain, and blowing in such flurries over high land, as made
it unsafe for us to get under sail. The afternoon was more moderate, and became fair ;
when myself, Mr. Cooper, and some others, went out in the boats to the rocks, which lie at
this entrance of the bay, to kill seals : the weatlier was rather unfavourable for tliis sport,
and the sea ran high, so as to make landing difiicult ; we, however, killed ten, but could only
wait to bring away five, with which we returned on board.

In the morning of the llth, while we were getting under sail, I sent a boat for the other
five seals. At nine o'clock we weighed, with a light breeze at S.E., and stood out to sea,
taking up the boat in our way. It was noon before we got clear of the land ; at which
time we observed in 45" 34' 30' south ; the entrance of the bay bore S.E. by E. and Break-
sea Isles (the outermost isles that lie at the south point of the entrance of the bay) bore
S.S.E. distant three miles ; the southernmost point, or that of Five Fingers' Point, bore
south 42" west ; and the northernmost land N.N.E. ; in this situation we had a prodigious
swell from S.W., which broke with great violence on all the shores that were exposed to it.

\ I.

■m\\

Mi '

I I

378

COOK'S SECOND VOYACJE ROUND THE WOULD.

May, I77n.

I, i

CllAPTI-n V. — DfRIXTIONS FOR SAIM.VO IN AND OITT OV niTSKY IIAV, WITH AN ACCOUNT

OP Tin; ADJACICNT COt'NTUV, ITS I'UODUfE AM) INIIAIIITANTS. ASTUO.NOMICAL A.>U

NAUTICAI, (»HSi:UVATIO.\S.

As there arc few jjlacea where I have been in New Zeahiul that afford tlio neeessary
refreHhnients in 3ucli plenty as Dusky Uay, a short (lescri|ition of it, and of tlio adjaeent
country, may j)rove of use to some future navii^atorsi, as well as aeceptable to the curious
reader. For although this country he far remote from the present trading part of the world,
we can by no means tell what use future ages may make of the discoveries made in tlio
present. The reader of this journal must already know that there are two entrances to this
bay. The south entrance is situated on the north side of Cape West, in latitmle 4C>" 4H'
south. It is formed by the land of the Cape to tlie south, and Five Fingers' Point to the
north. Tliis point is made remarkable by several point'-d rocks lying off it, which when
viewed from certain situations, have some resemblance to the five fingers of a man's hand ;
from whence it takes its name. The land of this point is still more remarkable by the little
similarity it bears to any other of the lands adjacent ; being a narrow peninsula lying north
and south, of a moderate and equal height, and all covered with wood.

To sail into the bay by this entrance is by no me.ans difficult, as I know of no danger
but what shows it><elf. The worst that attends it is the depth of water, which is too great
to admit of anchorage, except in the coves and harbours, and very near the shores ; and
even, in many plivces, this last cannot be done. The anchoring-]>laces are however numerous
enough, and equally safe and commodious. Pickersgill Harbour, where wo lay, is not
inferior to any other bay, for two or three ships ; it is situated on the south shore abreast of
the west end of Indian Island, which island may be known from the others by its greater
proximity to that shore. There is a passage into the harbour on both sides of the isle which
lies before it. The most room is on the ujiper or east side, having regard to a sunken rock
near the main, abreast this end of the isle. Keep the isle close aboard, and you will not
only avoid the rock, but keep in anehoring-grouud. The next jdace on this side is Cascade
Cove, where there is room for a fieet of ships, and also a ])assage in on either side of tlie
isle which lies in the entrance ; taking care to avoid a sunken rock which lies near the 8.E.
shore a little above the isle. This rock, as well as the one in Pickersgill Harbour, may be
seen at half ebb.

It must bo needless to enumerate all the anchoring- places in this capacious bay ; one or two
on each side will be quite sufficient. Those who want to be acquainted with more need
only consult the annexed chart, which they may depend upon as being without any material
error*. To such as put into this bay, and are afterwards bound to the south, I would
recommend Facile Harbour. To sail int» this harbour, keep the inside of the land of Five
Fingers'' Point al)oard, until you are the length of the isles, which lie abreast the middle of
that land. Haul round the novtii point of these isles, and you will have the harbour before
you, bearing east. But the chart will be a sufficient guide, not only to sail into this, but
into all the other anchoring-places, as well as to sail quite through, from the south to the
north entrance. However, I shall give some directions for this navigation. In coming in at
the south entrance, kee]> the south shore aboard, until you appi'oach the west end of Indian
Island, which you will know not only by its ai)parent, but real nearness to the shore. From
this situation, it will appear as a point dividing the bay into two arms. Leave this isle on
your starboard side, and continue your course up the bay, wiiich is E. by N. a N., without
turning cither to the right or left. When you are abreast, or above the east end of this
isle, you will find the bay of a considerable breadth ; and, higher up, to be contracted by
two projecting points. Three miles above the one, on the north side, and abreast of two

* The niip .icconipanyinj; tho present edition is constructed from the latest authorities, and renders a repetition of
Cook'g chart uuncccesary, — Uu.

^f I

Mav, 1773.

COOKS SKCONI) VOYAC.K IIOITNO TIIK WOULD.

:t70

small if*lc8, is tho pnssago out to sea, or to tiic north i-iitrancc ; and tliia lios nearly in tliu
direction of N. I»y W. and S. liy ]■'.

Tlif nortli cntranco Ui'H in tiie latitude of •!.'»" IW smitli, and five Iia;;neH to tlie nortli of
Five Fin^ii rs' l*i)int. 'I'o make tliif< t-ntrance plain, it will lu' nfeessary to approach the
shore within a few niili'H, as all thu land within, and on each wide, in of eoiisidcrahlo h('if,dit.
Its situation may, however, he known at a <;reater diftanee, as it lies under the first cra;,'i;y
mountains wliieh rise to the north of the land of I'ive l-'in^ers' Point. The southernmost of
these mountains is r(>niarkalde, having at its summit two small hilloeks. M'hen this moun-
tain hears S. S. E. you will he heforo tlie entrance, on the south side of which are several isles.
The westernmost and outermost is the nu)st considcrahle, hoth for height ami circuit ; and this
1 have called IJreak-sea Isle, hecause it eiVectually covers this entrance from the violence of
the S.W. swell, which the other entrance is so nmch exposed to. In saiiinj^ in you leavo
this isle, as well as all the others, to the south. The best anchorage is in tlu! tirst or north
arm, which is on the larhoard hand going in, either in one of tho coves, or behind tho islea
that lie tuuler tho S.K. shore.

The country is exceedingly mountainous ; not only about Dusky Bay, but through all the
southern part of this western coast of Tavia I'oenannnoo. A prospect more rude and
craggy is rarely to he met with ; for inland appears nothing but the summits of mountains
of a stu|)eudoHS height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, exeej)t
where tlu-y are covered with snow. Hut the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all tho
islands, are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The trees are of
various kinds, such as are common to other jiarts of this country, and are fit for the ship-
wright, house-carpenter, cabinet-maker, and many other uses. J'.xcept in the river Thames,
I have not seen finer tind)cr in all New Zealand : both hero and in that river, the most
considerable for size is tho sj)ruce-tree, as we ealKd it, from the similarity of its f(diage to
the American sjjruce, though the wood is more ponderous, and bears a greater resemblance
to the pitch-]>ine. Many of these trees are from six to eight, and ten feet in girth, and from
sixty to eighty or ono hundred feet in length ; large enough to make a mainmast for a fifty-
gun ship.

Here are, as well as in all other parts of New Zealand, a great number of aromatic trees
and shrubs, n)ost of the myrtle kind ; but amidst all this variety we met with none which
bore fruit fit to eat. In many parts the woods are so overrun with supjde-jacks, that it is
scarcely jiossible to iuicc one's way amongst them. I have seen several which were fifty or
sixty fathoms long.

The soil is a deep black mould, evidently composed of decayed vegetables, and so loose
that it sinks under you at every step ; and this may be the reason why we meet with so
many large trees as we do, blown down by the wind, even in the thickest ])art of the woods.
All the ground amongst the trees is covered with moss and fern, of both which there is great
variety ; biit except the flax or hemp j)lant, and a few other ])lants, there is very little
herbage of any sort, and none that was eatable that wc found, except about a handful of
water cresses, and about the same quantity of celery. AVhat Du«ky Bay nu)st abounds
with is fish : a boat with six or eight men with hooks and lints caught daily sufiicient to
serve the whole ship's company : of this article the variety is almost equal to the plenty ;
and of such kinds as arc common to the more northern coast ; but sonu> are superior; and
in particular the cole-fish, as wc called it, which is hoth larger and finer ilavourcd than any
I had seen before, and was, in the opinion of most on board, the highest luxury the sea
afforded us. The shell-fish are nmscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many other sorts ;
all such as arc to be found in every other part of the coast. The oidy an)phibious animals
are seals ; these are to be found in great numbers about this bay, on the small rocks and isles
near the sea-coast.

We found here five different kinds of ducks, some of which I do not recollect to have any-
where seen before: the largest are as big as a JMuscovy duc1«. with a very beautiful varie-
gated plumage ; on which account we called it the painted duck : both male and female have
a large white spot on each wing ; the head and neck of the latter is white, but all the other
feathers, as well as those on the head and neck of the drake, are of a dark variegated colour.

i:i

; k

[^1

380

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

May, 1773.

i I

1 1

••

1 i

I - i

1 i
i

^.X

The second sort have a brown phimage, with bright green feathers in their wings, and are
about the size of an English tame duck. The third sort is the blue-grey duck, before men-
tioned, or the Vvhistling duck, as some called them, from the whistling noise they made.
What is most remarkable in these is, that the end of their beaks is soft, and of a skinny, or
more properly, cartilaginous subatanco. The fourth sort is something bigger than tca!^ and
all black except the drake, which has some white feathers in his wing. Tliere are bnt few
of this sort ; and we saw them nowhere but in the river at the head of the bay. The last
sort is a good deal like a teal, and 7ery conmion, I am told, in England. The other fowls,
whether belonging to the sea or land, are the same that are to be found in comn^.on in other
parts of this country, except the blue peterel, before mentioned, and the water or wood hens :
these last, although they are numerous enough here, are so scarce in other parts, that I never
saw but one. Tlie reason may be, that, as they cannot fly, they inhabit the skirts of the
woods, and feod on the sea-beach ; and are so very tame, or foolisli, as to stand and stare at
us till we knocked them down with a stick. The natives may have in a manner wholly
destroyed them ; they are a sort of rail, about the size, and a good deal like a common dung-
hill hen ; most of them are of a dirty black or dark brown colour, and eat very well in a pie
or fricassee. Amongst the small birds I must not omit to particularise the wattle-bird, poy-
bird, and fan-tail, on account of their singularity, especially as I find they are not mentioned
in the narrative of my former voyage.

The wattle-bird, so called because it has two wattles under its beak, as large as those of a
small dunghill cock, is larger, particularly in length, than an English blackbird ; its bill is
short and thick, and its feathers of a c.ark lead colour ; the colour of its wattles is a dull
yellow, almost an orange colour.

The poy-bird is less tlian the

wattle-bird .: the feathers of a fine
mazarine blue, except those of its
neck, which are of a most beau-
tiful silver-grey, and two or three
short white ones, which aie on
the pinion-joint of the wing :
under its throat hanj; two little
tufts of curled snow-white fea-
thers, called its poles, whicli being
the Otaheitean word for ear-rin^s,
occasioned our piving that name
to the bird, which is not mere
\ ^markable for the beauty of its
plumage than for the sweetness
of its note : the flesh is also most
delicious, and was the greatest
luxury the woods afforded us.

Of the fan-tail, tliere are dif-
ferent sorts ; but the body of the
most remarkable one is scarcely
larger than a good filbert, yot it
spreads a tail of most beautiful
plumage, full three-quarters of a semicircle of at least four or five inches radius.

i'or three or four days after we arrived in Piekersgill Harbour, and as we were clearing
the woods to set Tip our tents, &c., a four-footed animal was seen by three or four of our
people; but as no two gave the same description of it, I cannot say o nliat kind it is; all,
however, agreed that it was about the size of a cat, with short legs, .,nd of mouse-colour :
one of the seamen, and he who had the best view ot it, said it had a bushy tail, and was the
most like a jackall of any animal he knew. The most probable conjecture is, that it is of a
new species ; be this as it may, we are now certain that this country is not so destitute of
quadrupeds as was once thought. The most mischievous animals here are the small black

THE pov niiiu.

May, 1773.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

381

sand-flics, which arc very numerous, and so troublesome, that they exceed everything of the
kind I ever met witii ; wherever they bite they cause a swelling, and such an intoh>rablc
itching, that it is not possible to refrain from scratching, which at last brings on ulcers like
the small-jtox.

The almost continual rains may be reckoned another evil attending this bay, though,
perhaps, this may only happen at this season of the year ; nevertheless, the situation of the
country, the vast height, and nearness of the mountains, seem to subject it to much rain at
all times. Our peo])U', who were daily exjioa'd to the rain, felt no ill effects from it ; on the
contrary, such as were sick and ailing when we came in, recovered daily, and the whole crew
soon became strong and vigorous, which can only be attributed to the healthiness of the
place and the fresh provisions it afforded. The beer certainly contributed not a little : as I
liave ;ilready observed, we at first made it of a decoction of the spruce leaves; but finding
that tl is alone made the beer too astringent, we afterwards mixed with it an equal quantity
of the tca-i)lai>t (a name it obtained in my former voyage, from our using it as tea then, as
we also did now), which partly destroyed the astringency of the other, and made the beer
exceedingly palatable, and esteemed by every one on board. We brewed it in the same
manner as spruce-beer, and the process is as follow , : first make a strong decoction of the
small branches of the spruce and tea-plants, by boiling them three or four hours, or until the
bark will strip with ease from off the branches ; then take them out of the copper, and put
in the proper quantity of molasses ; ten gallons of which is sufficient to make a tun, or two
hundred and forty gallons of beer. Let this mixture just boil, then put it into the casks,
and to it add an equal quantity of cold water, more or less, according to the strength of the
decoction or your taste. AVlun the whole is milk-warm, put in a little ground i of beer, or
yepst, if you have it, or anything else that will cause fermentation, and in a few days the
beer will be fit to drink. After the casks have been brewed in two or three times, the beer
will generally ferment itself, especially if the weather is warm. As I had inspissated juice
of wort on board, and could not apply it to a better purpose, we used it together with
molasses or sugar, to make these two articles go farther ; for of the former I had but one
cask, and of the latter little to spare for this brewing. Had I known how well this beer
would have succeeded, and the great use it was of to the people, I should have come better
provided; indeed I was partly discouraged by an experiment made during my former
voyage, which did not succeed then, owing, as I now believe, to some niismanagrnient.

Any one who is in the least acquainted with spruce pines, will find the tree which I have
distinguished by that name. There are three sorts of it ; that which has the smallest leaves
and deepest coloi.r is the sort we brewed with ; but, doubtless, all three mip'it safely serve
that purpose. The tea-plant is a small tiee or shrub, with five white petals, or flower-
leaves, shaped like those of a rose, having smaller ones of the same figure in the intermediate
spares, and twenty or more filaments or threads. The tree sometimes grows to a moderate
height, and is generally bare on the lower part, ^^ ith a number of small branches growing
close together towards the top. The leaves are small and pointed, like those of the myrtle ;
it boars a dry roundish seed-case, and grows commonly in dry i)laccs near the shores. The
leaves, as I have already observed, were used by many of us as tea, which has a very agree-
able bitter and flavour when tliey are recent, but loses some of both when they are dried.
When the infusion was made strong, it proved emetic to some, in the same manner as
green tea.

The inhabitants of this bay are of the same race of pet pie with those in the other parts of
this country, speak the same language, and observe nearly the same customs. These, indeed,
seem to have a custom of making presents before they receive any, in which they come nearer
to the Otaheiteans than the rest of their countiymen. What could induce three or four
families (for I believe there are not more) to separate themselves so far from the society of
the rest of their fellow-creatures, is not easy to guess. By our meeting with inhabitants in
this place, it seems probable, that there are people scattered over all this southern island.
But the many vestiges of them in different parts of this bay, compared with the number that
we actually saw, indicates that they live a wandering life; an'' il one may judge from
appearances and circumstarces, few as they arc, they live not in perfect amity one family

1 !

til

■ r

yt'

■A

1 1 1

382

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1773.

with anotb.or. For, if they did, why do they not form themselves into some society ? a tiling
not only natural to man, but observed even by the brute creation,

I shall conclude this account of Dusky Bay with some observations made and communi-
cated to me by Mr. "Wales. lie found, by a great variety of observations, that the latitude
of his observatory at Pickersgill Harbour, was 45° 47' 2(5.1" south ; and by the mean of
several distances of the moon from the sun, that its longitude was 1(1(5" 18' east; which is
about half a degree less than it is laid down in my chart constructed in my former voyage.
He found the v.ariation of the needle or compass by the mean of three different needles, to be
13" 41)' cast, and the dip of the south end 70" a". The times of high water on the full and
change days, he foimd to be at ]() 57 » and the tide to rise and fall at the former eight feet,
at the latter five feet eight inches. This d'ffe'.ence in the rise of the tides between the new
and full moon is a little extraordinary, and was probably occasioned, at this time, by soniu
accidental cause, such as winds, &c., but be it as it will, I am well assured there was no error
in the observations.

Supposing the longitude of the observatory to be as above, the error of Mr. Kendal's watch,
in longitude, will be 1° 48^, minus, and tliat of Mr. ArnoldV. 39° 25". The former was
found to be gaining (5", 4(>1 a-day, on mean time, and the lattc/ losing 99", 3(51 . Agree-
ably to these rates, tlie longitude by. them was not to be determined until an opportun'^y of
trying them again. I must observe, thiit in finding the longitude by Mr. Kendal's N.'vtch,
we supposed it to have gone mean time from the Cape of Good Hope. Had its (.'ape rate b"?ea
allowed, tlie error would not have been so great.

CHAPTER VI. PASSAGE FROM DUSKY BAY TO QUEEN CirAnLOTTE S SOUND, W i ,; .v.m ACCOUNT

OF SOME WATER-SPOUTS, AND OF OUR JOINING THE ADVENTURE.

After leaving Dusky Bay, as hath been already mentioned, I directed my course along
shore for Queen Jharlotte's Sound, where I expected to find the Adventure. In this passage
we met with nothing remarkable or worthy of notice till the 1 7tli, .at four o'clock in ♦he
afternoon. Being then about three leagues to the westward of Capo Stepliens, having a
gentle gale at west by south, and clear weather, the wind at once flattened to a calm, the
sky became suddenly obscured by dark, dense clouds, and seemed to forebode nmch wind.
This occasioned us to clew up all our sails, and presently after, six water-spouts were seen.
Four rose and spent themselves between us and the land; that is, to the S.W, of us; the
fifth was without us ; the sixth first appeared in the S.W. at the distance of two or tliree miles
at least from us. Its progressive motion was to the N.E. not in a straight, but in a crooked
line, and passed witiiin fifty yards of our stern, witVout our feeling any of its effects. The
diameter of the base of this spout I judged to bo about fifty or sixty feet ; that is, the sea
within this space was much agitated, and foamed up to a great heigiit. From this a tub >
or round body was formed, by which the water or air, or both, was carried in a spiral stri;. m,
up to the clouds. Some of our people said they saw a bird in the one near us ; which •» .■
whirled round like the fly of a jack as it was carried upwards, Darmg tiie time tiiese
spouts lasted, we had, now and then, light puffs of wind from all points of the compass ; with
some few slight sliowers of rain, which generally fell in large drops ; and the weather
continued thick and hazy for some hours after, with variable light breez s of wind. At
length the wind fixed in its old point, and the sky resumed its former serenity. Some of
these spouts appeared, at times, to be stationary ; and, at other times, to have a quick, but
very unequal, progressive motion, and always in a crooked lino, sometimes one way. and
sometimes another ; so that, once or twice, wc observed them to cross one another. From
the ascending motion of the bird, and several other circumstances, it was very plain to us
that these spouts were caused by whirlwinds, and that the water in tiiem was vio] My
hurried upwards, and did not descend from tiie clouds, as I have heard some abscrt K'.ia
first appearance of them is by the violent agitation and rising up of the water; and, pre:i .>. /
after, you see a round column or tube forming from the clouds above, which apparently
descends till it joins the agitated water below. I say apparently, because I believe it not to

;

Feb. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

bo so in reality, but that the tiibo h already formed from tlic agitated water below, and
ascends, though at first it is either too small or too thin to be seen. Wlien the tube is formed,
^r becomes visible, its apparent diameter increaseth, until it is pretty large ; after tliat, it
decreascth, and, at last, it breaks or becomes invisible towards the lower ])art. Soon after
the sea below resumes its natural state, and the tube is drawn, by little and little, u]^ to the
clouds, where it is dissipated. Tlie same tube >\ ^uld sometimes have a vertical, and some-
times a crooked or inclined direction. Tlie most rational account I have read of water-
spouts is in Mr. Falccmer's Marine Dictionary, which is cliiefly collected from the ))]iilosophical
writings of the ingenious Dr. Franklin. I have been told that the firing of a gun will
dissipate them, and I am very sorry I did not try the experiment, as we were near enough,
and had a gun ready for the purpose ; but, as soon as the danger was past, I thought no more
about it, being too "ttentive in viewing these extraordinary meteors. At the time this
happened the barometer stood at 29.7'>, and the thermometer at .56.

In coming from Cape Farewell to Cape Stephens, I had a better view of the coast than I
had when I passed in my former voyage, and observed that, about six leagues to the east
of the first-mentioned ca))e, is a spacious bay, which is covered from the sea by a low point
of land. This is, I believe, the same that Captain Tasman anchored in on the 18th of
December, 1(542, and by him called Murderer's Bay, by reason of some of his men being
killed by the natives. Blind Bay, so named by me in my former voyage, lies to the S E.
of this, and srcms to run a long way in-land to the south ; the sight in this direction not
being bounded by any land. The wind having returned tu the west, as already mentioned,
we resumed our course to the east; and :it daylight the next morning (b(!ing the IHtli), we
appeared off Queen Charlotte's Sound, where we discovered our consort tlio Adventure, by
the signals which she made to us ; an event which every one felt with an agreeable satisfac-
tion. The fresh westerly wind now died away, and was succeeded by light airs from the
south and S.W,, so that we had to work in, with our boats a-head towing. In the doing of
this, we discovered a rock, which we did not see in my former voyage. It lies in the
direction of S. by E. ^ E-i distant four miles from the outermost of the Two Brothers, and
in a line with the White Rocks, on with tlie middle of Limg Island. It is just even with
the surface of the sea, and hath deep water all round it. At noon, Lieuteniiut Kempe of the
Adventure came on board ; from whom I learnt that their ship had been here about six
weeks. With the assistance of a li^dit breeze, our boats, and the tides, we, at six o'clock in
the evening, got to .an anchor in Ship Cove near tlie Adventure ; when Captain Furiieaux
came on board, and gave me the following account of his proceedings, from the time we
parted, to my arrival liere.

i I

,;]

■1

il:^

.(• I'

■ I

■W

CHAPTER VII.

BKPARATF.D,
ACCOUNT OP

CAPTAIN FUHNEACX S NARRATIV. , FROM THE TIME THE TWO SHIPS WERE
TO TilEIR JOINING AGAIN IN QUEEN CUAULOTTE's SOUND, WITU SOAIE
VAN DIEMEN's land.

On the 7th of February, 1771^', in the morning, the Resolution being then about two miles
a-head, the wind shifting then to the westward, brou'^ht on a very thick fog, so thai we
lost sight of her. We soon after heard a gun, the report of which we imagined to be on the
larboard beam ; we then hauled up S.E. and kepi firing a four-pounder every half hour ; but
had no answer, nor further sight of her ; then we kept the course we steered on before the
fog came on. In the evening it began to blow hard, and was, at intervals, more clear ; but
could sec nothing of her, which gave us much uneasiness. We then tacked and stood to tlie
westward, to cruize in the place where we last saw her, according to agreement in case of
separation ; but, next day, came on a very heavy gale of wind and thick wcatiier, that
obliged us to bring to, and thereby prevented us reaching the intended spot. However, the
wind coming more moderate, and the fog in some measure clearing away, we cruized as near
the place as wc could get, for three days ; when giving over all hopes of joining company
again, we bore away for winter quarters, distant fourteen hundred leagues, through a sea
entirely unknown, and reduced the allowance of water to one quart per day.

,104

COOK S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1773.

I> u I

I'M

;']■

Wc kept between tlie latitude of 52 and ii.T south ; had much westerly wind, hard gales
with squalls, snow and sleet, with a long hollow sea from the S. W. so that we judged there
is no land in that quarter. After we reached the longitude of 9;")" cast, we found the variation
decrease very fast ; but for a more perfect account, I refer you to the table at the end of
this book.

On the 2()th at night, we saw a meteor of uncommon brightness in the N.N.W. It
directed its course to the S.W. with a very great light in the southern sky, such as is known
to the northward by the name of Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights. We saw the light
for several nights running ; and, what is remarkable, we saw but one ice island after we
parted company with the Resolution, till our making land, though we were most of the time
two or tiiree degrees to the southward of the latitude wo first saw it in. We were daily
attended by great numbers of sea birds, and frequently saw porpoises curiously spotted white
and black.

On the first of ]\[arch we were alarmed with the cry of land by the man at the mast-head,
on the larboard beam ; which gave us great joy. We immediately hauled our wind and
stood for it, but to our mortification were disappointed in a few hours ; for what we took to
be land, proved no more than clouds, which disappeared as we sailed towards them. We
then bore away and directed our course toward the land laid down in the charts by the
name of Van Dicmon's Land, discovered by Tasman in 1042, and laid down in the latitude
44" south, an ; 't nTitude 140" east, and supposed to join to New Holland.

On the 9th (, , having little wind and pleasant weather, about nine a.m., being then

in the latitude 43 south longitude, by lunar observation, 14.>" .36' east, and by account,

143" 10' east, from Greenwich, we saw the land bearing N.N.E. about eight or nine leagues
distance. It appeared moderately high, and uneven near the sea ; the hills further back
formed a double land and much higher. There seemed to be several islands, or broken land,
to the N.W. as the shore trended; but by reason of clouds that hung over them, we could
not be certain whether they did not join to the main. We hauled immediately up for it,
and by noon were within three or four leagues of it. A point, much like the Ramhead,
off Plymouth, which I take to be the same that Tasman calls South Cape, bore north four
leagues off us. The land from this cape runs directly to the eastward ; about four leagues
alongshore tare three islands iibout two miles long, and several rocks, resembling the Mewstone
(particularly one which we so named) about four or five leagues E.S.E. ^ E. off the
above Cape, which Tasman has not mentioned, or laid down in his drafts. After you
pass these islands the land lies E. by N. and W. by S. by the compass nearly. It is a bold
shore, and seems to afford several bays or anchoring places, but believe deep water. From
the S. W. cape, which is in the latitude of 43" 39' south, and longitude 145" 50' east, to the
S.E. cape, in the latitude 43" 36' south, longitude 147' past, is nearly sixteen leagues, and
sounding from forty-eight to seventy fathoms, sand and broken shells, three or four leagues
off shore. Here the country is hilly and full of trees, the shore rocky and difficult landing,
occasioned by the wind blowing here continually from the westward, which occasions such a
surf that the sand cannot lie on the shore. We saw no inhabitants here.

The morning on the 10th of March being calm, the ship then about four miles from the
land, sent the great cutter on shore with the second lieutenant, to find if there wsis any
harbour or good bay. Soon after, it beginning to blow very hard, made the signal for the
boat to return several times, but they did not see or hear anything of it ; the ship then
three or four leagues off, that we could not see anything of the boat, which gave us great
imcasiness, as there was a very great sea. At half-past one p.m. to our great satisfaction,
the boat returned on board safe. They landed, but with much difficulty, and saw several
places where the Indians had been, and one they lately had left, where they had a fire, with
a great number of pearl scallop shells round it, which shells they brought on board, with
some burnt sticks and green boughs. There was a path from this place, through the woods,
wiiich in all probability leads to their habitations ; but, by reason of the weather, had not
time to pursue it. The soil seems to be very rich ; the country well clothed with wood,
particularly on the lee side of the hills ; plenty of water, which falls from the rocks in
beautiful cascades for two or three hundred feet perpendicular into the sea ; but they did

Mahcii 1773. COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLD.

aos

not sec tlio least sign of any place to anchor in with safety. Hoisted in the boat, and made
sail for Frederick Henry Ray. From noon to three p.m. running along-shore E. by N.
at which time we were abreast of the westernmost point of a very deep bay, called by
Tasnian, Stormy Bay. From the west to the east ))oint of this bay, there arc several small
islands, and black rocks which we called the Fryars. While crossing this bay we had very
heavy squalls and thick weather ; at times, when it cleared up, I saw several fires in tlie
bottom of the bay, which is near two or three leagues deep, and has, I doubt not, good places
for anchoring, but the weather being so bad, did not think it safe to stand into it. From
the Fryars the land trenches away about N. by E. four leagues. We had smooth water,
and kept in-shore, having regular soundings from twenty to fifteen fathoms w.iter. At half-
past six we hauled round a high bluff point, the rocks whereof were like so many fluted
pillars, and had ten fathoms water, fine sand, within half a mile of the shore. At seven,
being abreast of a fine bay, and having little wind, we came to, with the small bower, in
twenty-four fathoms, sandy bottom. Just after we anchored, being a fine clear cveninrr,
Iiad a good observation of the star Antares and the moon, which gave the longitude of
147" 34' east, being in the latitude of 43" 20' south. We first took this bay to be that
which Tasman called Frederic Henry Bjiy ; but afterwards found that his is laid down five
leagues to the northward of this.

At day-break the next morning, I sent the master in-shorc to sound the bay, and to find
out a watering-place ; at eight he returned, having found a most excellent harbour, clear
ground from side to side, from eighteen to five fathom water all over the bay, gradually
decreasing as you go in-shore. We weighed and turned up into the bay ; the wind being
westerly, and very little of it, which baffled us much in getting in. At seven o'clock in the
evening, we anchored in seven fathoms water, with the small bower, and moored with the
coasting anchor to the westward, the north point of the bay N.N.E. | E., (which we take
to be Tasman's Head,) and the oastermnost point (which we named Penguin Island,
from a curious one we caught there) N.E. by E. ^ E. the watering-place W. I N. about
one mile from the shore on eacli side ; ]Maria's Island, which is about five or six leagues off,
shut in with both points ; so that you are quite land-locked in a most spacious harbour.

We lay here five days, which time was employed in wooding and watering (which is
easily got), and overhauling the rigging. We found the country very jileasant ; the soil a
black, rich, though thin one ; the sides of the hills covered with large trees, and very thick,
growing to a great height before they branch off. They are, all of them, of the evergreen
kind, different from any I ever saw ; the wood is very brittle and easily split ; tliere is very
little variety of sorts, having seen but two. The leaves of one are long and narrow ; and
the seed (of which I got a few) is in the shape of a button, and has a very agreeable smell.
The leaves of the other are like the bay, .and it has a seed like the whitethorn, with an
agreeiible sjjicy taste and smell. Out of the trees we cut down for fire- wood, there issued
some gum, which tlie surgeon called gumlac. Tiie trees are mostly burnt, or scorched near
the ground, occasioned by the natives setting fire to the underwood in the most freq.iented
places ; and by these means they have rendered it easy walking. The land birds we saw,
are a bird like a raven ; some of the crow kind, black, with the tips of the feathers of the
tail and wings white, their bill long and very sharp ; some parroquets ; and several kinds
of small birds. The sea-fowl are ducks, teal, and tlie sheldrake. I forgot to mention a
large white bird, that one of the gentlemen shot, about the size of a large kite, of the eagle
kind. As for beasts, we saw but one, which was an opossum : but we observed the dung
of some, which we judged to be of the deer kind. Tiie fish in the bay are scarce ; those we
caught were mostly sharks, dog-fish, and a fish called by the seamen nurses, like the dog-
fish, only full of small white spots ; and some small fish not unlike sprats. The lagoons
(which are brackish) abound with trout, and several other sorts of fish, of which we caught
a few with lines, but being much encumbered with stumps of trees, we could not haul the
seine.

While we lay here, we saw several smokes and large fires, about eight or ten miles in-
shore to the northward, but did not see any of the natives ; though they frequently come
into this bay, as there were several wigwams or huts, where we found some bags and nets

c c

ifSji

!H!i -t

'it

;.\

;MJ(

! t

111 I II

3nt;

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1773.

■ "5

made of grass, in wliicli I imagine tliey carry tlieir provisions and otlicr necessaries. In one
of them tliere was tlio stone they strike fire with, and tinder made of hark, but of what tr t
could not he distinguished. We found, in one of their huts, one of their spears, which w ts
made sharp at one end, I suppose with a shell or stone. Those tilings wc brought away,
leaving in the room of tliem, medals, gun-flints, a few nails, and an old empty barrel with
the iron hoops on it. They seem to be quite ignorant of every sort of metal. The boughs
of which tieir huts arc made, are either broken or split, and tied together with grass in a
circular form, the largest end stuck in the ground, and the smaller parts meeting in a point
at the toji, and covered with fern and bark ; so poorly done, that tliey will hardly keep out
a shower of rain. In the middle is the fire-place, surrounded with heaps of muscle, pearl
"allop, and cray-fish shells ; which I believe to be their chief food, though we could not
find any of them. They lie on the ground, on dried grass, round the fire ; and, I believe,
they have no settled jdace of habitation (as their houses seemed built only for a few days),
but wander about in small parties from place to place in search of food, and are actuated by
no other motive. We never found more than three or four huts in a place, capable of con-
taining three or four persons each only ; and what is remarkable, we never saw the least
marks either of canoe or boat, and it is generally thought they have none ; being altogether,
from what we could judge, a very ignorant and wretched set of people, though natives of a
country capable of producing every necessary of life, and a climate the finest in the world.
We found not the least signs of any minerals or metals.

Having completed our wood and water, we sailed from Adventure Bay, intending to
coast it up alongshore, till we shpuld fall in with the land seen by Captain Cook, and dis-
cover whether Van Diemen's Land joins with New Holland. On the 16th we passed
Maria's Islands, so named by Tasman ; they appear to be the same as the mainland. On
the 17th, having passed Schouten's Islands, we liauled in for the mainland, and stood along-
shore at the distance of two or three leagues off. The country here appears to be very
thickly inhabited, as there was a continual fire along-shore as we sailed. The land here-
abouts is much pleasanter, low and even ; but no signs of a harbour or bay, where a ship
might anchor with safety. The weather being bad, and blowing hard at S.S.E., we could
not send a boat on shore to have any intercourse with the inhabitants. In the latitude of
40° 50' south, the land trenches away to the westward, which I believe forms a deep bay,
iis we saw from the deck several smokes arising a-back of the islands that lay before it,
w hen we could not see the least siffns of land from the mast-head.

From the latitu'l ■ of 40" 50' south, to the latitude of 39'' 50' south, b nothing but islands
and shoals; the laud high, rocky, and barren. On the I9th, in the latitude of 40" 30'
south, observing breakers about half a mile withinshore of us, we sounded, and finding but
eight fathoms, immediately hauled off, deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, then bore
away, and kept along-shore again. From the latitude of 39° 50' to 39" S. we saw no land,
I)ut had regular soundings from fifteen to thirty fathoms. As we stood on to the northward,
we made land again in about 39°; after which we discontinued our northerly course, as we
lound the ground very uneven, and shoal water some distance off. I think it a very
dangerous shore to fall in with.

The coast, from Adventure Bay to the place where we stood away for New Zealand, lies
in the direction S. ^ W. and N. ^ E. about seventy-five leagues ; and it is my opinion that
there is no strait between New Holland and Van Diemen's Land, but a very deep bay.
I should have stood farther to the northward, but the wind blowing strong at S.S.E., and
looking likely to haul round to the eastward, which would have blown right on the land, I
therefore thought it more proper to leave the coast, and steer for New Zealand.

After we left Van Diemen's Land, we had very uncertain weather, with rain and very
heavy gusts of wind. On the 24th, we were surprised with a very severe squall, that
ri (luced us from top-gallant sails to reefed courses, in the space of an hour. The sea rising
tqually quick, we shipped many waves, one of which stove the large cutter, and drove the
small one from her labhing into the waist ; and with much difficulty we saved her from
bting washed overboard. This gale lasted twelve hours, after which we had more moderate
weather, intermixed with calms. We frequently hoisted out the boats to try the currents,

icii, 1773.

In one
wliat tr f
vliich \N ts
^'lit away,
arrel witli
le bouglis
grass in a
in a point
' keep out
sclc, pearl
could not
I believe,
'ew days),
;tuated by
le of con-
T the least
iltogetlier,
itives of a
the world.

tending to

c, and dis-

we passed

land. On

ood along-

to be very

land here-

lere a ship

we could

latitude of

deep bay,

before it,

)nt islands

of 40" 30'

nding but

then bore

w no land,

lorthward,

irse, as wo

it a very

aland, lies
>inion that
deep bay.
.S.E., and
;he land, I

I and very

quail, that
sea rising
drove the

1 her from
moderate

! currents,

AiMiir, 177?. COOKS SECOND VOYAGK ROUND THK WORLD.

,^(;7

and in general found a small drift to the W.S.W. We shot many birds, and had upon the
whole good wcatlu-r ; but as we got near to tlie land, it came on thick and dirty for several
days, till we made the coast of New Zt-aland in 40' 30' S. having made twenty-four degroca
of longitude, froni Adventure Bay, after a passage of fifteen days. We had the winds much
southerly in this passage, and I was under some appreliensions of not being able to fetch tho
Straits, which would have obliged us to steer away f(ir CTCorge's Island ; I would therefore
advise any who sail to this part, to keep to the southward; particularly in the fall of the year,
when the S. and S.E. winds prevail.

Tho land, when we first made it, appeared high, and formed a confused jumble of
hills and mountains. We steered along-shore to the nortliward, but were much retarded ia
our course by reason of the swell from the N.E. At noon on tiie 3d of April, Capo Fare-
well, which is the south point of the entrance of the west side of tiie Straits, bore E. by
N. f N. by the compass, three or four leagues distant. About eight o'clock we entered tho
Straits, and steered N.E. till midnight; then brought-to till daylight, and bad soundings
from forty-five to fifty-eight fathoms, sand and broken shells. At daylight, made sail and
steered S.E. by E. ; had light airs; Mount Egmont N.N.E. eleven or twelve leagues, and
Point Stephens S.E. \ E. seven leagues. At noon, Mount Egmont N. by E. twelve
leagues ; Stephens' Island S.E. five leagues. In the afternoon wo put the dredge overboard
in sixty-five fathoms ; but caught nothing except a few small scallops, two or three oysters,
and broken shells.

Standing to the eastward for Charlotte's Sound, with a light breeze at N.W. in tho
morning on the 5th, Stephens' Island bearing S.W. by W. four leagues, wo were taken
aback with a strong easterly gale, which obliged us to haul our wind to the S.E. and work
to windward up under Point Jackson. The course from Stephens' Island to Point Jackson
is nearly S.E. by the compass, eleven leagues distant, depth of water from forty to thirty-
two fathoms, sandy ground. As we stood off and on, we fired several guns, but saw no
signs of any inhabitants. In the afternoon, at half past two o'clock, finding the tide set liie
ship to the westward, we anchored with the coasting anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water,
muddy ground ; Point Jackson S.E. ^ E. three leagues ; the east point of an inlet (about
four leagues to the westward of Point Jackson, and which appears to be a good harbour)
S.W. by W. ^ W. At eight P.M. the tide slackening, we weighed and made sail (having
while at anchor caught several fish with hook and line), and found the tide to run to the
westward at the rate of two and a half knots jter hour. Standing to the east, we found no
ground at seventy fathoms, off Point Jackson N.N.W. two leagues. At eight the nexi,
morning, had the sound open, but the wind being down it, obliged us to work up under tho
western shore, as the tide sets up strong there, when it runs down in mid channel. At
ten, the tide being done, was obliged to come to with the best bower in thirty-eight fathoms,
close to some wliite rocks. Point Jackson bearing N.W. J N. tho northernmost of the
Brothers E. by S. and the middle of Entry Island, (which lies on the north pide of the
Straits,) N.E. We made Yh" 30 E. variation in the Straits. As we sailed \\\^ the sound,
we saw the tops of high mountains covered with snow, which remains all tho year. When
the tide slackened, we weighed and sailed up the sound ; and about five o'clock on the 7th,
anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms water, muddy ground, and moored the best bower
to the N.N.E. and small to '' .S.W. In tho night, we heard the howling of dogs, and
people hallooing on the east shore.

Tho two following days were emploj-ed in clearing a place on Motuara Island for erect-
ing our tents for the sick (having then several on board much afHicted with the scurvy), the
sailmakcrs and coopers. On the top of the island was a post, erected by the Endeavour's
people, with her name and time of departure on it. On the 9th, we were visited by three
canoes with about sixteen of the natives: and to induce them to bring us fish and other
provisions we gave them several things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of
our young gentlemen seeing something wrapi)ed up in a better manner than common, had
the curiosity to examine what it was ; and, to his great surprise, found it to be the head of
a man lately killed. They were very apprehensive of its being forced from them ; and
particularly the man who seemed most interested in it, whose very flesh crept on his bones,

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38a

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1773.

for foar of being puiiislicd by us, as Cajitain Cook had expressed his great abhorrence of this
uimatitral act. Tlicy used every uiotliod to conceal the head, by sliifting it from one to
another ; and by signs endeavouring to convince us, that there was no such thing amongst
them, though wo had seen it but a few minutes before. They then took their leave of us,
and went on shore.

They frequently mentioned Tupia, which was the name of the native of George's Island
(or Otaheite), brought here by the Endeavour, and who died at Batavia ; and when wo
told tliem he was dead, some of them seemed to be very much concerned, and, as well as we
could understand them, wanted to know whether we killed him, or if ho died a natural
death. By the.><e questions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. In the afternoon,
they returned again with fish and fern roots, which they sold for nails and other trifles ;
though the nails are what they set the most ^alue on. The man and woman who had the
head, did not come off again. Having a catalogue of words in their language, wo called
several things by name, which surprised them greatly. They wanted it much, and offered
a groat quantity of fish for it.

Next morning they returned again, to the number of fifty or sixty, with their chief at
their head, as we supposed, in five double canoes. They gave us their implements of war,
stone hatchets, and clotlics, &c. for nails and old bottles, which they put a great value on.
A number of the head men came on board us, and it was with some difficulty we got them
out of tlic ship by fiiir means ; but on the appearance of a musket with a fixed bayonet,
they all went into their canoes very quickly. We were daily visited by more or less,
who brought us fish in great plenty for nails, beads, and other trifles, and behaved very
peaceably.

We settled the astronomer with his instruments, and a sufficient guard, on a small
island, that is joined to Motuara at low water, called the Hippa, where there was an old
fortified town that the natives had forsaken. Their houses served our people to live in ;
and by sinking them about a foot inside, we made them very comfortable. Having done
this, we struck ou*' tents on the Motuara, and having removed the ship farther into the
cove, on the west shore, moored her for the winter. We then erected our tents near the
river or watering-place, and sent ashore all the spars and lumber off the decks, that they
might be calked ; and gave her a winter coat to preserve the bull and rigging. On the
Ilth of ]\ray, wo felt two severe shocks of an earthquake, but received no kind of damage.
On the 17th we were surprised by the people firing guns on the Hippa, and having sent the
boat, as soon as she opened the sound, had the pleasure of seeing the Resolution off the
mouth of it. Wo immediately sent out the boats to her assistance to tow her in, it being
calm. In the evening she ancliored about a mile without us ; and next morning weighed
and warped within us. Both ships felt an uncommon joy at our meeting, after an absence
of fourteen weeks.

CHAPTER VIII. — TRANSACTIONS IN QUEEN CHARLOTTES SOUND, WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE

INIIAIIITAKTS.

Knowing that scurvy -grass, celery, and other vegetables were to be found in this sound,
I went myself the morning after my arrival, at daybreak, to look for some, and returned on
board at breakfast with a boat-load. Being now satisfied that enough was to be got for
the crews of both ships, I gave orders that they should be boiled, with wheat and portable
broth, every morning for breakfast ; and with pease and broth for dinner ; knowing from
experience, that these vegetables, thus dressed, are extremely beneficial in removing all
manner of scorbutic complaints.

I have already mentioned a desire I had of visiting Van Diemen's Land, in order to inform
myself if it made a part of New Holland ; and I certainly should have done this, had the
winds proved favourable. But as Captain Furncaux had now, in a great measure, cleared
up that point, I could have no business there, and therefore came to a resolution to continue
our researches to the east between the latitudes of 41" and 46". I acquainted Captain
Furneaux therewith, and ordered him to get his ship in readiness to put to sea as soon as

Iay, 1773.

icc of this
m one to
; amongst
avc of ns,

}'s Island
when wo
veil as we
a natural
ifternoon,
cr trifles ;

had the
we called
nd ofivred

ir chief at
ts of war,

value on.

got them

1 bayonet,
e or less,
ived very

1 a small
kvas an old
to live in ;
iving done
r into the
ts near the
that they

On the
jf damage.
Iff sent the

off the
it being
g weighed
,n absence

KS ON THE

;his sound,
eturned on
be got for
d portable
wing from
noving all

r to inform
had the
re, cleared
,0 continue
d Captain
as soon as

June, 1773. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

possible. In the morning of tlie 20th, I sent ashore to the watering-place, near the Adven-
ture s tent, the only ewe and ram remaining of those which I brojight from tlie Capo of
Good Hope, with an intent to leave in this country. f>o()n after, I visited the several
gardens Captain rurneiuix had caused to be made and jdanted with various articles ; all of
which were in a flouris^liing state, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of great
utility to them. The next day I set some men to work to make a garden on Long Island,
whicii I planted with garden seeds, roots, &c.

On the 23d in the morning the ewe and ram I had with so much care and trouble brought
to this place were both found dead ; occasioned, as was supposed, by eating some poisonou
]>lant. Thus my hopes of stocking this country with a breed of sheep were blasted in a
moment. About noon we wer. visited, for the flrst time since I arrived, by some of the
natives, who dined with us ; and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening they
were dismissed with presents.

Early in the morning of the 24th, I sent IMr. Gilbert the master to sound about the rock
wc had discovered in the entrance of the sound. IMyself, acconii)anied by Captain Furneaux
and Mr. Forster, went in a boat to the west bay on a shooting-party. In our way, we met
a large canoe, in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they
asked was for Tupia, the person I brought from Otaheite on my former voyage ; and they
seemed to expi-ess some concern when we told them he was dead. These jieople made the
same inquiry of Captain Furneaux when he first arrived ; and on my return to the ship in
the evening, I was told tiiat a canoe had been alongside, the people in which seemed to be
strange's, and who also inquired for Tupia. Late in the evening Mr. Gilbert returned,
haviiig sounded all round the rock, wiiich he found to bo very small and steep.

Nothing worthy of notice happened till the 29th, when several of tlie natives made us a
visit, and brouglit with them a quantity of fish, which they exchanged for nails, &c. One
of these people I took over to Motuara, and showed him some potatoes planted there by
Mr. Fannen, master of the Adventure. There seemed to be no doubt of their succeeding ;
and the man was so well pleased with them, that he, of his own accord, began to hoe tho
earth up about the plants. AVe next took him to the other gardens, and showed him the
turnips, carrots, and parsneps ; roots whieli, together with the potatoes, will bo of more real
use to them than all the other articles we had ])lanted. It was easy to give them an idea
of these roots by comparing them with such as tliey knew. Two or three families of these
l)eople now took up their abode near us, employing themselves daily in fishing, and supplying
us with the fruits of their labour, the good effects of which wo soon felt. For we were by no
means such expert fisliers as they are ; nor were any of our methods of fishing equal to theirs.

On the 2d of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, I sent on shore, on the east
side of the sound, two goats, male and female. The former was something more than a year
old, but the latter was much older. She ' '. two fine kids, some time before we arrived in
Dusky Bay, which were killed by cold, as hath been already mentioned. Captain Furneaux
also put on shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows ; so that we have reason
to hope this country will, in time, be stocked with these animals, if they are not destroyed
by the natives before they become wild ; for afterwards they will be in no danger. But as
the natives knew nothing of their being left behind, it may be some time before they arc
discovered.

In our excursion to the east, we met with the largest seal I had over seen. It was
swimming on tho surface of the water, and suffered us to come near enough to fire at it,
but without effect ; for, after a chase of near an hour, we were obliged to leave it. By the
size of this animal, it probably w^as a sea-lioness. It certainly bore much resemblance to
the drawing in Lord Anson's voyage ; our seeing a sea-lion when we entered this sound, in
my former voyage, increaseth the probability ; and I am of opinion they have their abode
on some of the rocks which lie in the strait, or oft" Admiralty Bay.

On the .'h-d, I sent a boat with tho carpenter over to the east side of the sound, to cut
down ™me spars, which we were in want of. As she was returning, she was chased by a
large double canoe full of people ; but with what intent, is not known. Early the next
morning, some of our friends brought us a large supply of fish. One of them agreed to go

•m

Mmi

iv ■

i I

COOKS SECOND VoVAtii: HOUND Till': UOKLD.

Jink, 177'''-

II It

away with us ; Imt, arti'r\vanl!», tliat is \\\nu it cnmo to tlic point, lie clian^'ctl liis iniiul ; as
did some otiicrs wlio had iironiiftd to jjo witli tlio Advi'iitnrc. It was tvcii said, that soine
of thi'iii oUViid thoir cliihlrcn to sak'. I hovvevtr found tliat tliis wax a mistake. Tlio
report first took its rise on hoard tlio AdventiuT, where tiiey were utter stranocrs to their
language a>.d ciistoms. It was very conunon for tliese jieoph- to hring tlieir eiiiithrn with
them, and present them to us, in ex|)eetation that we wouhl make them presents ; tliis
happened to mc the i)reeeding morning. A man hronght ids son, a hoy ahodt nine or ten
years of age, and presented him to me. As tlie rej)ort of selling their cliiidren was then
current, I thought at first that he wanted me to huy the l)oy. lint at last I found that ho
wanted mo to give him a white shirt, which I accordingly did. The hoy was so fond of
his new dress, tliat he went all over the ship presenting himself hefore every one that came
in his way. This freedom used hy him offended Old Will, the ram-goat, wiio gave him a
butt with his liorns, and knocked him backward on the deck. Will wonld have repeated
his blow, had not some of the people come to the boy's assistance. The misfortune, however,
seemed to liim irreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the cabin
before his father, until brought in by Mr. Torster ; when he told a very lamentable story
against CJoury, the great dog (for so they call all the quadrupeds we had aboard), nor could
he be reconciled till his shirt was washed and dried. This story, though extremely trifling
in itself, will show how liable we are to mistake these people's meaning, and to ascribe to
them ciistoms which they never knew even in thought.

About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty people, appeared
in sight. Our friends on board ^eemed much alarmed, telling us that these were their
enemies : two of them, the one with a spear, and the other w ith a stone hatchet in his hand,
mounted the .ai-ehests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those enemies
defiance ; • ude the others, who were on board, took to their canoe and went ashore,
probably to secure the women and children. All I could do, could not prevail on the two
that remained to call these strangers alongside ; on the contrary, they were displeased at
my doing it, and wanted me to fire upon them. The ])cople in the canoe seemed to pay
very little regard to those on board, but kejit advancing slowly towards the ship ; and, after
performing the usual ceremonies, p.it alongside : after this the chief was easily prevailed
upon to come on board, followed by many others, and peace was immediately established on
all sides ; indeed, it did not appear to me that these people had any intention to nuike war
upon their brethren : at least, if they had, they were sensible enough to know that this w as
neither the time nor \>\aco for them to couuuit hostilities.

One of the first questions these strangers asked was for Tupia ; and wlien I told them he
was dead, one or two expressed their sorrow by a kind of lamentation, which to me appeared
more formal than real. A trade soon commenced between our people and them. It was
not possible to hinder the former from selling the clothes from off their backs for the merest
trifles, things that were neither usefid nor curioi <. This caused mo to dismiss the strangers
sooner than I would have done. When they departed, they went over to IMotuara, where,
by the help of our glasses, we discovered four or five canoes, and several people on the
shore : this induced me to go over in my boat, accompanied by Mr. Forster and one of the
officers. AVe were well received by the chief and the whole tribe, which consisted of
between ninety and a hundred persons, men, women, and children, having with them six
canoes, and all their utensils; winch made it probabL' that they were come to reside in this
sound : but this is only conjecture ; for it is very con nion for them, when they even go but
a little way, to carry their whole property with them ; every place being alike, if it affords
them the necessary subsistence ; so that it can hardly be said that they are ever from home.
Thus we m.ay easily account for the emigration of those few families we fouiul in Dusky Bay.

Living thus dispersed in small parties, knowing no head but the chief of the family or
tribe, whose authority nuiy be very little, they feel many inconveniences, to which well-
regulated societies, united under one head or any other form of government, are not subject.
These form laws and regulations for their general good ; they are not alarmed at the appear-
ance of every stranger ; and if attacked or invaded by a public enemy, have strongholds to
retire to, where they can, with advantage, defend themselves, their property and their

IT''

NK, i77n.

miiul ; :i8
that Home
kc. Tlic
s to tlu'ir
tlicii witli
I'lits ; tliis
iiK! or ten

was thru
ul tliat lie
!*() foiul of
that came
avo liiin a
L' repeated
, however,

tlie cabin
iiblc story

nor coiihl
'Iv trifling
aiicribc to

, appeared
ivere their
I his hand,
10 enemies
nt ashore,
)n tlie two
'pleased at
ed to pay
and, after
prevailed
blished on
miike war
t this was

d them he
s appeared
It was
the merest
i strangers
ira, where,
)le on the
one of the
nsisted of

them six
ido in this
^en go but

it affords
'om iiome.
iisky Bay.

family or
hich well-
ot subject,
le appear-
ngholds to

and their

Jim;, 177 ». COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE HOUND TIIK UOULD.

.'UM

country. This seems to bo the state of most of the inliabitants of Halici-nomauwe ; whereas
those of Tavai-])()enamiiio(), by living a wandering life in .small parties, are dotitiite of most
of these adv:\ntag('s, wliicli subjects tlicni to perpetual alirnis. We generally found them
upon their guard, travelling ami working, as it were, with their arms in their liands. Kven
the women arc not exempted from iieariiig arms, as appeared by the Hist interview I had
with the family in Dusky Day, where eacii of the twj women was armed with a spear not
less than eigiiteen fi'it in lenutli.

I was led into these reflections, by not being able to recollect the face of any one person I
had seen here three years ago; nor did it once appear that any one of them had the least
knowledge of me, or of any jji-rson with me that was here at that time : it is, therefore,
highly i)robable that the greatest jjart of the i)eople which inhabited this sound in the
beginning of the year J77<^ have been since driven out of it, or have, of their own accord,
removed somewhere else : certain it is that not one-third of the inhabitants wer(! here now,
that were then. Their stronghold <m the point of ^Motnara hath been long deserted ; and
we found many forsaken habitations in all parts of the sound : we are not, liowever, wholly
to infer from this that this jtlace hath been once very populous ; for each family may, for
their own convenience, when they move from place to i)lace, have more huts than one or two.

It may be asked, if these peoph; had never seen the Endeavour, nor any of her crew, how
coidd they become acquainted with the name of Tiipia, or have in their possession (which
many of them had) such articles as they could only have got from that ship ? To this it
may be answered, that the name of Tupia was so [)opular among them when the Kiideavoiir
was here, that it would be no wonder if, at this time, it was known over great \r,\rt of New
Zealand, and as familiar to those who never saw him as to those who did. Ilad ships of
any other nation whatever arrived here, they would have ecjually iiKjuired of them for
Tupia. Dy the same way of reasoning, many of the articles left hero by the Endeavour,
may be now in possession of those who never saw her. I got from one of the people, now
present, an ear-ornament, made of glass, very well formed and polished ; the glass they
must have got from the Endeavour.

AftcT passing about an hour on Motuara with these people, and having distributed
among thorn some presents, and showed to the chief the gardens we had made, I returned
on board, and spent the remainder of our royal master's birthday in festivity; having the
company of Captain Furncaux and all his officers. Double allowance enabled the seamen
to share in the general joy.

Both ships being now ready for sea, I gave Captain Furncaux an account in writing of
the route I intended to take; which was to proceed to the east, between the latitudes of 41°
and 46° south, until 1 arrived in the longitude of 140^ or 135° west; then, provided no
land was discovered, to proceed to Otaheite ; from thence back to this place by the shortest
route; and after taking in wood and water, to proceed to the south, and explore all the
unknown parts of the sea between the meridian of New Zealand and Cape Horn ; therefore,
in case of separation before we reached Otaheite, I appointed that island for the place of
rendezvous, where he was to w.ait till the 20t,li of August : if not joined by me before that
time, he was then to make the best of his way back to (iueeu Charlotte's Sound, where he
was to wait imtil the 20th of November ; after which (if not joined by me), he was to put
to sea, and carrj' into execution their Lordships' instructions.

Some may think it an extraordinary step in me to proceed on discoveries as far south as
46 degrees of latitude, in the very depth of winter. But though it must be owned that
winter is by no weans favourable for discoveries, it nevertheless appeared to me necessary
that something should be done in it, in order to lessen the work I was upon, lest I should
not be able to finish the discovery of tlic southern part of the South Pacific Ocean the
ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover any land in my route to the east, I should
be ready to begin, with the summer, to explore it. Setting aside all these considerations,
I had little to fear; having two good ships well provided, and healthy crews. AVluue then
could I spend my time better ? If I did nothing more, I was at least in hopes of being able
to point out to posterity that these seas may be navigated, and that it is practicable to go
on discoveries, even in the very depth of winter.

\m 1i

! '^n

!i ■■{

no2

COOK'S SECOND VOYAOK HOUND TIIK WOlll.I). June, 177.J.

During onr utay in tin; sound, I liad i)b«.Tvt'd tliiit tliis second visit innde to tliis country
had not nicmlt d tlio nioralH of thu nativcH of citlier sex. I iind alwiiys looked upon tlio
females of New Zealand to be more cliasto than the generality of Indian women. What-
ever favours a few of them might have granted to the ])eoj)le in the Endeavour, it was
generally done in a private manner, and the men did not seem to interest themselves much
in it ; but now I was told they were the chief promuterfl of a shameful traffic, and that, for
a spike-nail, or any otiier thing they value, they would oblige the women to prostitute
themselves, whether they would or not; and even without any regard to that privacy which
decency required.

During our stay here, Air. Wales lost no opportunity to observe equal altitudes of the
sun, for obtaining the rates of the watches. The result of his labours proved that
Mr. Kendal's was gaining 9", 5 per day, and ]\Ir. Arnold's losing 94", ir»8 per day, on
mean time.

• K i

: !

, wo
AVe had

CIIAPTEn IX. — nOCTR FROM NEW ZEALAND TO OTAnEITE, WITH AN ACCOrNT OP SOME LOW
ISLANDS, SL'l'POSED TO llE THE SAME THAT WERE SEEN HY M. DE UOUOAINVILLE.

On the 7tl> of Juno, at four ift the morning, the wind being more favourable
unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea, with the Adventure in company,
no sooner got out of the sound, than we found the wind at south ; so that wo had to ply
through the Straits. About noon the tide of ebb setting out in our favour, mado our boards
advantageous ; so that, at five o'clock in the evening. Cape Palliser, on the Island of Ealiei-
nomauwe, bore S.S.E. ^ S. and Cape Koamaroo, or the S.E. point of the sound, N. by
W. I "W. ; presently after it fell calm, and the tide of flood now making against us, carried
us, at a great rate, back to the north. A little before high- water, the calm was succeeded
by a breeze from the north, which soon increased to a brisk gale. This, together with the
ebb, carried us, by eight o'clock the next morning, quite through the S' 't. Cape Palliser,
at this time, bore K.N.E., and at noon N. by W., distant seven leagi

This day at noon, when wo attended the winding up of the wa .ho fusee of Mr.

Arnold's would not turn round ; so that, after several unsuccessful trials, we were obliged
to let it go down.

After getting clear of the Straits, I directed my course S E. by E., having a gentle gale,
but variable, between the north and west. The late S.E. winds having caused a swell from
the same quarter, which did not go down for some days, we had little hopes of meeting
with land in that direction. We, however, continued to steer to the S.E., and on the lltli,
crossed the meridian of 180°, and got into the west longitude, according to my way of
reckoning. On the Kith, at seven in t'le morning, the wind having veered round to S.E.,
we tacked and stretched to N.E., being, at this time, in the latitude of 47° 7'» longitude
173° west. In this situation we had a great swell from N.E. The wind continued at S.E.,
and, S.S.E. blew fresh at intervals ; and was attended with sometimes fair, and at other
times rainy weather, till the 20th ; on which day, being in the latitude of 44° 30', longitude
J 65° 4.')' west, the wind shifted to the west, blew a gentle gale, and was attended with fair
weather. With this we steered E. by N., E. by S., and E. till the 23rd at noon, when,
being in the latitude of 44" 38' south, longitude 161° 27' west, we had a few hours' calm.
The calm was succeeded by a wind at east, with which we stood to the north. The wind
increased and blew in squalls, attended with rain, which at last brought us under our
courses; and at two o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, we ^^re obliged to lie
to under the foresail ; having a very hard gale from E.N.E., and a great sea from the same
direction.

At seven o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the gale being more moderate, we made sail
under the courses, and in the afternoon set the top-sails close-reefed. At midnight the wind
having veered more to the north, we tacked and stretched to the S.E., being at this time in
the latitude of 42° 53' pouth, longitude 16.3° 20' west. We continued to stretch to the S.E.
with a fresh gale and fair weather, till four o'clock in the afternoon the next day, when we
stood again to the N.E. till midnight between the 27th and 28th. Then we had a few hours'

ir r]

UNE, 17"!5.

is cituntry
upon tliu
. Wl.at-
iir, it was
Ivi'S nnieli
d tliiit, fur
prostitute
acy whicli

cU'S of tlio
oved til at
ler day, on

SOME LOW
VII.LE.

arable, wo
Wc had
had to ply
our boards
1 of Eahci-
nd, N. by
us, carried
I succeeded
!r with the
pe Palliser,

isce of Mr,
ere obliged

jentle gale,
swell from
of meeting
nthe 11th,
ny way of
id to S.E.,

longitude
id at S.E.,
d at other
, longitude
d with fair
oon, when,
ours"' calm.

The wind
under our
iged to lie
n the same

D made sail
it the wind
his time in
to the S.E.
r, when we
few hours'

.ki,Y, 177n.

(OOK'S SK((>NI) VOYAr.K ROlNl) TflK M'ORM).

no3

mini ; whi<;li was succoedcd by faint liroczes from the west. At this time wo wore in the
latitude of -li2' .'i2', longitude 1(51" l.'t' wist. Tlio wind nniained not long at west, bifore
it veered back to tlie east by the north, and kept between the S.E. and N. E,, but never
blew strong.

On July 2d, being in the latitude of 4T 3', longitude 1 ')()" 17' west, wc had again a calm,
which brought the wind back to the west; but it was of no longer continuance than before,
for the next day it returned to the E. and S.E., blew fresh at tiniia, and by squalls, with
rain. On the 7th, being in the latitude of 41 " 22', longitude laO' 12' west, we had two
hours'" calm ; iu wiiich time Mr. Wales went on board the Adventure to compare the watches;
and they were found to agree, allowing for the diiference of their rates of going ; a probable,
if not a certain proof, that they had gone well since we had been in this sea.

The calm was succeeded by a wind from the south, between which point and the N.W.
it continued for the six succeeding days, but never blew strong ; it was, however, attended
with a great hollow swell from S. W. and W., a sure indication that no large land was near
in those directions. We now steered east, inclining to tho south, and on tlie lOth, in the
latitude of 4.3" 39', longitude 144" 43' west, the variation was found, by several azimuths,
to be no more than 3" east ; but tho next morning it was found to be 4" f)' 30", and in tho
afternoon, fi" 'lO' east. The same day, at noon, we were in the latitude of 43" 44', longitude
141 5(5' west.

At nine o^clock in the morning of tho 12th, the longitude was observed as followrs, viz. : —

Self

. 1st set

Ditto

. 2d set

Mr. Wales

1st set

Ditto

. 2d set

Mr. Clerko

, ,

Mr. Gilbert

, ,

1.39°

47'

140

141

140

r.G

140

Mean

140 24 17^ west.

This diflPered from my reckoning only 2}/. The next morning, iu the latitude of 43" 3',
longitude 139" 20' west, wc had several lunar observations, which were consonant to those
made the day before, allowing for tho ship's run in the time. In the afternoon we had, for
a few hours, variable light airs next to a calm ; after which we got a wind from the N.E.,
blowing fresh and in squalls, attended with dark gloomy weather, and some rain.

We stretched to the S.E. till five o'clock in the afternoon on the 14tli ; at which time,
being in the latitude of 43" 15', longitude 137" 3'J' west, we tacked and stood to the north
under our courses, having a very hard gale with heavy squalls, attended with rain, till near
noon the next day, when it ended in a calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 42" 39',
longitude 137° 58' west. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from S.W.,
which soon after increased to a fresh gale; and fixing at S.S.W., with it we steered
N.E. 4 E. In the latitude of 41° 25', longitude 135" 58' west, we saw floating in the sea
a billet of wood, wli'-ii seemed to be covered with barnacles, so that there was no judging
how long it might have been there, or from whence or how far it had come.

We continued to steer N.E. ^ E. before a very strong gale, which blew in squalls,
attended with showers of rain and hail, and a very high sea from the same quarter, till noon,
on the 17th. Being then in the latitude of 39" 44', longitude 133" 32' west, which was
a degree and a half farther east than I had intended to run ; nearly in the middle between
my track to the north in IJ^ti), and the return to the south in the same year (as will appear
by the chart), and seeing no signs of land, I steered north-easterly, with a view of
exploring that part of the sea lying between the two tracts just mentioned, down as low as
the latitude of 27", a space that had not been visited by any preceding navigator that
I knew of. On the 19th, being in the latitude of 30" 34', longitude 133" 7' west, wo
steered N. | west, having still the advantage of a hard gale at south, which the next day
veered to S.E. and E., blew hard and by squalls, attemled with rain and thick hazy
weather; this continued till the evening of the 21st, when the gale abated, the weather
cleared up, and the wind backed to the S. and S.E.

' M

'I, !

IU'

' !l

'^mm

894

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND I'HE WORLD.

July, 1773.

h'l

Wc were now ir» tlie latitude of 32° 30', longitude 133° 40' west : from tliis situation we
steered N.N.W. till noon the next day, when we steered a point more to the west; hciiig
at this time in the latitude of 31" (i*, longitude 1.34° 12' west. The weatiier was now so
warm, that it was necessary to put on lighter clothes : tiie mercury in the thermometer at
noon rose to 63; it had never been lower that 4(i, and seldom higher than i»4, at the sai.se
time of the day, since we left New Zealand.

This day was remarkable by our not seeing a single bird ; not one had passed since we
left tlie land without seeing some of thf following birds, viz. albatrosses, slieer-waters, pin-
tadoes, blue peterels, an<l Port Egmont hmis ; but these fn-quent every part of tlie South'^rn
Oc'jan in the higher latitudes; not a bird nor any other thing was seen, that could induce
ns to think that we had ever been in the neiglibourhood of any land.

The wind kept veering round from the south by the west to N.N.W., with which we
strctcned north till noon the next day, when, being in the latitude of 29° 22', we tacked anu
stretched to the westward. The wind soon increased to a very hard gale, attended with
r-vin, and blew in such heavy squalls as to split the most of our sails. This weather con-
tinued till the morning of the 2;")th, when the wind became more moderate, and veered to
N.W. and W.N.W., with which we steereil and stretched to N.E., being, at that time, in
the latitude of 29° 51', longitude 136° 20' west. In Jie afternoon, the sky cleared up, and
the weather became fair and settled. Wc now met the first tropic-bird we had seen in this
sea. On the 26tli, in the afternoon, being in the latitude of 28° 44', we had several oljserva-
tions of the sun and moon, which gave the longitude 135° 30' west. Mv reckoning at the
san.e time was 135" 27', and I hijd no occasion to correct it since I left the land. We
continued t'^ stretch to the north, with ''ght breezes from tin. westward, till noon tlie next
day, when we were stopped by a calm ; our latitude at this time being 27° 53', hmgitiide
135° 17' west. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from tiie N. and N.W.,
with which we plied to the north.

On the 29th, I sent on board the Adventure to inquire into the state of her crew, having
heard that they were sickly, and this I now found was but too true ; her cook was dead, and
about twenty of her best men were down in the scurvy and flux. At this time, we had only
three men on the sick list, and only one of them r.ttaeked with tlie scurvy ; several more,
however, began to show symptoms of it, and were accordingly put upon the wort, marmalade
of carrots, rob of lemons and oranges. I know not how to accjunt for the tcurvy raging
more in the one ship than the other, unless it was owing to the crt;>v of the Adventure being
more scorbuvc when they arrived in New Zealand thru we were, and to their eating few or
no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, pr.rtly for want of knowing the
right sorts, and partly because it was a new diet, whicli alone was sufficient for seamen to
reject it. To introduce any nt tv article of food among seamen, let it be ever so much for
their good, requires both the example and authority of a commander ; without both of which,
it will be dro])j)ed before the people aie sensible of the benefits resulting from it : were it
necessary, I could name fifty instances in upport of this remark. Many of my people,
officers as well as seamen, at first disliked ceiery, scurvy-grass, &c., being boiled in the j)eas
and wheat ; and some refused to eat it ; but as this had no effect on my conduct, this
obstinate kind of prejudice, by little and little, wore off; they began to like it as well as the
others, and now, I believe, there was hardly a man in the ship that did not attribute our
being so free from the scurvy, to the beer and veg tables we made use of at New Zealand ;
after this, I seldom found it necessary to order ,iiiy of my people to gather vegetables,
whenever we came where any were to be got, and if scarce, ha;)py was he who could l.ay
hold on them first. I appointed one of my seamen to be cook of the Adventure, and wrote
to Ca?itain Furneaux, desiring him to make use of every method in his power to stop tlie
spreadii g of tlic disease amongst his people, and proposing such as I tliought might tend
towards it ; but I afterwards found all this unnecessary, as every method had been used they
could think of.

The wind continued in the N.W. quarter, and blew fresh, at tines, attended with rain ;
with which we stood to the N.E. On the 1st of August, at nooi;, wc were in the latitude
of 25° 1', longitude, K. 4° 6' west, and had a great hollov»' swell from N.W. The situation
we were now in was nearly the same that Captain Cartarct assigns for Pitcairn's Island,

LY, 1773.

Aug. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

395

ation we
t; being
,s now so
iinetcr at
the sai.'C

since we
ters, pin-

SoiltllTH

Id induce

ivliich we
icked anu
dcd with
ther con-
veered to
t time, in
d up, and
en in this
1 observa-
njT at the
md. We

I tlic next
hmjiitiide

,ud N.W.,

w, having

dead, and

e had only

eral more,

narmalade

vy raging

tare being

ing few or

owing the

seamen to

much for

of which,

: were it

ny people,

II the peas
iduct, tills
well as tlie
tribute our

Zealand ;
vegetables,

could lay
and wrote
I) stop tlie
niidit tend
I used they

with rain ;
he latitude
le situation
n's Island,

discovered liy him in 1767. Wo therefore looked well out for it ; but saw nothing. Accordi; g
to the longitude in which he has ])laced it, we mist have passed about fifteen leagues to thj
west of it. But as this was uncertain, I did not tliink it prudent, considering the situation
of the Adventure's iie()])le, to lose any time in looking for it. A sight <<f it would, lio\V(?ver,
liave been of use in verifying or correcting, not only the longitude of this isle, but of the
others that Captain Cartaret discovered in this neiglibourliood • his longitude not being
confirmed, I think, by astronomical observations, and therefore liable to errors, whicli lie
could liave no metliod to correct.

As we had now got to tlie northward of Captain Cartaret's tracks, all hopes of discovering
a continent vanished. Islands were all we were to expect to find, until we returned again
to the south. I had now, that is on this and my former voyage, crossed this ocean in the
latitude of 40° and u])wards, without meeting anything tliat did, in the least, induce ino to
think I should find what I was in search after. On tlie contrary, everything conspired to
make me believe there is no soutliern continent, between the meridian of America and New
Zealand ; a'l, least, this passa;;e did not produce any indubitable signs of any, as will ajjpear
by the followinnr remarks. After leaving the coasts of New Zealand, we daily saw, floating
in the sea, rock- weed, for the space of 18° of longitude. In my passage to New Zealand in
1769, we also saw of this weed, i'oi- the space of 12" or 14" of longitude, before we made the
land. Tlie weed is, undoubtedly, llie produce of New Zealand ; because, the nearer the
coast, the greater quantity you see. At the greatest dista.ice from the coast, we saw it only
in small ])ieces, generally more rotten, and covered with barnacles ; an indubitable sign that
it had been long at sea. AVere it not for this, one might be led to conjecture that some
other large land lay in the neighbourhood ; for it caimot be a small extent of coast to produce
such a quantity of weed as to cover so largo a space of sea. It hath been already men-
tioned, that we were no sooner clear of the Straits, than we met with a large hollow swell
from the S.E. which continued till we arrived in the longitude of 177' west, and latitude
46'. There we had large billows from the north and N.E. for five days successively, and
until we got .5° of longitude more to the east, although the wind, great part of the time,
blew from different directions. This was a strong indication that there was no land between
us and my track to tiie west in 1760. After this, we had, as is usual in all great oceans,
large billows from every direction in which the wind blew a fresh gale, but more especially
from the S.W. These billows never ceased with the cause that first i)ut them in motion ; a
sure indication, that we were not near .any large land, and that there is no continent to the
south, unless in a very high latitude. But this was too important a point to be left to
opinions and conjectures. Facts were to determine it ; and these could only be obtained by
visiting the southern parts ; which was to be the work of the ensuing summer, agreeably to
the plan I had laid down.

As the winds continued to blow from the N.W. and west, we had no other choice but to
stand to the north, inclining more or less every day to the cast. In the latitude of 21", wo
saw flying-fish, ganncts, and egg-birds. On the (ith, I hoisted a boat out and sent for
Captain Furneaux to dinner ; from whom I learnt that his iieojjle were much better, the flux
having left them ; and the scurvy was at a stand. Some cider which he hajqiened to have,
and which he gave to the scorbutic people, contributed not a little to this happy change.
The weather to-day was cloudy, and the wind very unsettled. Tiiis seemed to announce
tlie approach of the so much-wishea-fi, trade-wind ; which at eight o'clock in the evening,
Jifter two hours' calm and some heavy showers of rai ve actually got at S.E. We were,
at this time, in the latitmlo of 19 '36' south, longitude; 131" 32' west. The not meeting
with the S.E. trade- wind sooner, is no new thing in this sea. As we had now got it, I
directed my course to the AV.N.W. as well to keep in the strength of it, as to get to the
nortii of the islands discovered in my former voyage ; that, if any other islands lay in the
way, I might have a chance to discover them. During the day-time we madL> all the sail
we could ; but in the night, cither run an easy sail, or lay-to. We daily saw flying-fish,
albacorcs, doljdiins, &c. ; but neither by striking, nor with hook and line, could wo catch any
of them. This required some art which none of my people were masters of.

On the IJtii at daybreak, land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearer approach, we

'II iihh

'•: !(

390

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Aio. 1773.

I '

i<: y

'i..!v

found to bo an island of about two leagues in extent, in tlio direc'ion of N.W. and S.E. and
clothed with wood, above wliich the cocoa-nut trees showed their lofty heads. I judged it
to be one of those isles discovered by M. Bougainville. It lies in the latitude of 17" 24',
longitude 14J" 39' west; and I called it, after the name of the ship, Resolution Island. Tiie
siciily state of the Adventure's crew made it necessary for mo to make tlio best of my way to
Otaheite, where I was sure of finding refreshments. Consequently, I did not wait to
examine this island, which appeared too small to supply our wants, but continued our course
to the west ; and at six o'clock in the evening, land was seen from the mast-head, bearing
west by south. Probably this was another of Bougainville's discoveries. I named it
Doubtful Island ; and it lies in the latitude of 17° 20', longitude 14P 38' AV, I was sorry
I could not spare time to haul to the north of M. Bougainville's track ; but tlie getting to a
place where we could procure refreshments was more an object at this time than discovery.

During the night we steered W. by N. in order to pass the north of the island above
mentioned. At daybreak the next morning, we discovered land right ahead, distant about
two miles ; so that daylight advised us of our danger but just in time. Tliis proved another
of these low or half-drowned islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty-leagues in
circuit. A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little islets ranged along the
north side, and connected by sandbanks and breakers. These islets were clothed with
wood, among which the cocoa-nut trees only were distinguishable. We ranged the south
side of this isle or shoal at the distance of one or two miles from the coral bank, against
which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. In the middle is a large lake or inland sea, in which
was a canoe under sail.

This island, which I nameu after Captain Furneaux, lies in the latitude 17'' ii', longitude
143° \& west. The situation is nearly the same that is assigned for one of those discovered
by Bougainville. I must here observe, that amongst these low and half-drowned isles (which
are numerous in this part of the ocean) M. Bougainville's discoveries cannot be known to
that degree of accuracy which is necessary to distinguish them from others. We were
obliged to have recourse to his chart for the latitudes and longitudes of the isles he discovered,
as neither the one nor the other is mentioned in his narrative. Without waiting to examine
this island, we continued to steer to the west, all sails set, till six o'clock in the evening, wiien
we shortened sail to three topsails, and at nine brought to. The next mo'ning at four a.m.
we made sail, and at daybreak saw another of these low islands, situated in the latitude of
17° 4', longitude 144° 30' west, which obtained the iiaine of Adventure Island. JM. de
Bougainville very properly calls this cluster of low overflowed i4es the Dangerous Archipe-
lago. The smoothness of the sea sufliciently convinced us that we were surrounded by them,
and how necessary it was to proceed with the utmost caution, es])ecially in the night.

At five o'clock p.m. we again saw land, bearing S.W. by S. which we afterwards found to
be Chain Island, discovered in my former voyage. But as I was not sure of it at this time,
and being desirous of avoiding the delay which lying by in the night ccasioned, I hoisted
out the cutter and manned her with an officer and seven men, with orders to keep as far
ahead of tlie ships, with a light at her mast-head, as a signal could be distinguished, which
she was to make in case she met with any danger. In this manner we continued to run all
night ; and at six o'clock the next morning, I called her on board and hoisted her in. For
it did not appear she would bo wanted again for this purpose, as we had now a large swell
from the south, a sure sign that we were clear of the low islands ; therefore I steered for
Otaheite without being apprehensive of meeting with any danger.

\ I

Uo. 1773.

S.E. and

judged it
f 17' 24',
ind. Tlic
ly way to
t wait to
)nr course
1, bearing

named it
was sorry
.'tting to a
liscovery.
ivnd above
tant about
cd another
■leaffues in
[ along tlie
thed with

the south
ik, against
V, in which

, longitude
discovered
sles (which
i known to
A\'e were
discovered,
to examine
ning, when
it four A.M.
hititude of
nd. M. de
18 Arcliipe-
id by tliem,
igbt,

•ds found to

t this time,

d, I hoisted

keep as far

bed, wliich

d to run all

lor in. For

I large swell

steered for

A 10. 1773.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

307

CHAPTKn X. — TIIK ARRIVAL OP THE SHIPS AT OTAIIEITE, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE
CRITICAL SITCATTON TIIEY WERE IN, AND OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED
WHILE THEY LAY IN OAITI-PIHA BAY.

On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, we saw Osnaburg Island, or IVIaitea, discovered
by Captain Wallis, bearing S. by "W. J, W. Soon after I brought to, and waited for the
Adventure to come up with us, to acquaint Capi.iin Furneaux, that it was my intention to
put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near the S.E. end of Otaheite, in order to get what refreshments we
could from that part of the island, before we went down to ]Matavai. This done, we made
sail, and at six in the evening saw the island bearing west. We continued to stand on till
midnight, when we brought to, till four o'clock in the morning, and then made sail in for
the land with a fine breeze at cast.

At daybreak we found ourselves not more than half a league from the reef. The breeze
now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This made it necessary to hoist out our
boats to tow the ships oif ; but all their efforts were not sufficient to keep them from being
carried near the reef. A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts,
bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which they exchanged
for nails, beads, &c. The most of them knew me again ; and many inquired for Mr. Banks
and others who were with me before ; but not one asked for Tupia. As the calm continued,
our situation became still more dangerous. We were, liowever, not without hopes of getting
round the western point of the reef and into the bay, till about two o'clock in the afternoon,
when we came before an opening or break in the reef, through which I hoped to get with
the ships. But on sending to examine it, I found there was not a sufficient depth of water ;
though it caused such an indraught of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving
fatal to the Resolution ; for as soon as the ships got into this stream, they were carried with
great impetuosity towards the reef. Tiie moment I perceived this, I ordered one of the
warping machines, which we had in readiness, to be carried out with about four hundred
fathoms of rope ; but it had not the lea.«t effect. The liorrors of shipwreck now stared us in
the face. W^e were not more tlian two c'al)les' length from the breakers ; and yet we could
find no bottom to anchor, the oi ' probable means we had left to save the ships. We
however dropped an anchor; bui nfore it took hold, and brought us up, the ship was in less
than three fathoms water, and stru' at ivery fill of tlie sea, whicli lirike close inider our
stern in a dreadful surf, and threatened us evci\ nioiiu nt with shipwreck. The Adventure,
very luckily, brought up close upon our bow witiiout striking

We presently carried out two kedge anchors, w ili liawsers t each. These found ground
a little without the bower, but in what depth we never knew. By licaving upon them, and
cutting away the bower anchor, we got the ship afloat, whore \ lay some time in the
greatest anxiety, expecting every n\inute that either the kedges would come home, or the
hawsers be cut in two by the rocks. At length the tide used to act in the same direction.
I ordered all the boats to try to tow off the Resolution ; and when I saw this was practicable,
we hove up the two kedges. At that moment, a light air came off fi-om the laii'l, which so
much assisted tli»! boats, that we soon got clear of all danger. '1 ' en I ordered all the boats
to assist the Adventure ; but before they reached her, she was under sail with the laud-
breeze, and soon after j 'ined us, leaving behind her three miiors, her coasting cable, and
two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus we were once more safe at sea, after
narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island we, but a few days before, so ardently
wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us into this dangerous situation, very fortunately
continued ; for had the sea-breeze, as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have
b«>en lost, and probably the Adventure too.

During tiie time wc were in this critical situation, a number of the natives were on board
and about the ships ; they seemed to be insensible of our danger, showing not the least

: I

:i M

• m

Ilf,4r'-*"

nofi

( OOKS SE( OND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Aio. ITTS.

•. *i

surprise, joy, or fiar, when we were striking, and left us little before sunset, quite
unconcerned.

We spent the ni^ht, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards ; and the next
mornintr, beinf the 17th, we ancliored in Oaiti-piha Bay in twelve fathoms water, about two
cables' length from
the shore; both ships
being by this time
crowded witli a great
number of the natives,
wlio broucht witli
them cocoa-nuts, plan-
tains, bananas, apples*
yams, and other roots*
which they exchanged
for nails and beads.
To several wlio called
themselves chiefs, I
made presentsof shirts,
axes, and several other
articles ; and in re-
turn, they promised
to bring me hogs and
fowls; a promise tliey
never did, nor ever
intended to perform.

In the afternoon I
landed, in company
witlt Captain Fur-
neaux, in order to
view the watering-
place, and to sound
the disposition of the
natives. I also sent
a boat to get some

water for present use, having scarcely any left on board. We found this article ,as
convenient as could be expected, and tlio natives to behave with great civility. Early in
the morning I sent the two launches, and the Resolution's cutter, under the command of Mr.
Gilbert, to endeavour to recover tlie anchors we liad 'eft behind us. They returned about
noon with the Resolution's boW(>r anchor ; but could not recover any of the Adventure's.
The natives came oft' again witli fruit, as the day before, but ip no great quantity, I iilso
had a party on sluie, trading under (lie protection of a guard ; nothing, however, was
brought to market but fruit and roots, tliough many hogs were seen (I was t(dd) about the
houses of the natives. The crv was that tlicv belouLted to Waluatoua the Earce de hi, or
king ; and him we had nnt yet seen, nor. 1 believe, any other chief of note ; many, however,
wlio called themselves Earccg. came on board, partly with a view of getting presents, and
partly to pilfer whatever came in tlieir way.

One of tliis sort of Enrees I had, most of the day, in the cabin, and made presents to him
and all his friends, which were not a few. At length he was caught taking things which
did not belong to him, and handing them out of the quarter gallery. Many comjilaints of
the like nature were made to nio against those on deck ; which occasioned my turning them
all Cau of the ship. ]\Iy cabin guest made good h.isi to be gone. I was so much exasperated
at his behaviour, that after he had got some distance from the ship, I fired tv.r muskets over
his head, which made hi. n quit the canoe, and tn! (! to the water. I then sent a boat to
take up the canoe ; but as she came near the shore, tlie people from tiience began to pelt her
with stones. Being in some pain for her saf( f\ , as she was unarmed, I went myself in

YAMS ANIl PI.WTAIN-.

10. 1113.
?t, quite

the next
bout two

article as
Early iu
and of 31 r.

lied about
dventure's.
ty. I also

ever, was

about the

v (ie hi, or

, however,
csents, and

?nts to him
ings which
mplaints of
minR them
ixasperated
uskets over
t a boat to
to pelt her
myself in

Alio. 177'K

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

,199

another boat to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the
coast, wliich made them all retire from the shore, and I was suffered to bring away two
canoes witliout the least show of opjiosition. In one of the canoes was a little boy, who was
much frightened ; but I soon dissipated Ids fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on
shore. A few hours after, we were all good friends a<>ain ; and the canoes were returned to
the first person who came for them.

It was not till the evening of this day that any one inquired after Tupia, and then but
two or three. As soon as they learnt the cause .f his death, they were quite satisfied:
indeed, it did not a]>pear to me, that it would have caused a moment's uneasiness in the
breast of any one, had his death been occasioned by any other means than by sickness. As
little inquiry was made after Aotourou, the man who wont away with M. de Bougainville ;
but they were continually asking for 3Ir. Banks, and several others who were with me in
my former voyage. These people informed us, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater
peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle which was fought between the two king-
doms about five months before ; and that Otoo was the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide,
and several more of our principal friends about ]Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great
number of common people ; but at present, a peace subsisted between the two kingdoms.

On the 19th we had gentle breezes easterly, with some smart showers of rain. Early in
the morning, the bojits were again sent to recover the Adventure's anchors, but retunud
with the same ill success as the day before ; so that we ceased to look for them any longer,
thinking ourselves very hai)py in having come off so well, considering the situation we had
been in. In an excursion which Captain Furneaux and I made along the coast, we nut
with a chief who entertained us with excellent fish, fruit, &c. In return for his hospitality,
I made him a present of an axe and other things ; and he afterwards accompanied us back
to the ships, where he made but a short stay.

Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the dusk of the evening, when one of
the natives made off with a musket belonging to the guard on shore. I was present when
this happened, and sent some of our people after him, which would have been to little jmr-
pose, had not some of the natives, of their own accord, pursued the thief : they knocked him
down, took from him the musket, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occasiim, certainly
operated more with them than principle : ♦'ley, however, deserve to be applauded for this
act of justice; for, if they had not given their immediate assistance, it would hardly have
been in my ])ower to have recovered the musket by any gentle means whatever ; and by
making use of any other, I was sure to lose more than ten times its value.

The 21st, the wind was at north a fresh breeze. This morning a chief made me a visit,
and presented me with a qu.intity of fruit, among which were a n' uiber of cocoa-nuts we
had drawn the water from, and afterwards thrown overboard. These he had ])icked up,
and tied in bundles so artfully, that we did not at first perceive the cheat. When he was
told of it, without betraying the least emotion, and as if he knew nothing of the matter, he
opened two or three of them himself, signified to ns that he was satisfied that it was so, and
then went on shore and sent off a quantity of plantains and bananas. Having got on board
a supply of water, fruit, and roots, I determined to sail in tlie nu)rning to ]\Iatavai, as I
found it was not likely that I should get an interview with AVaheatoua; without wliich it
was very improbable we should get any hogs. Two of the natives who knew my intention,
slept on board, with a view of going with us to Matavai ; but in the morning the wind
blew fresh at N.W., and as we could not sail, I sent the trading party on shore as
usual.

In the evening I was informed that Wahcatoua was come into the neighbourhood and
wanted to see me. In consequence of this information, I dt termined to wait one day longer
in order to have an interview with this prince. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set
out in company with Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of the natives We met
the chief about a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was advancing to meet us ;
hut as soon as lie saw us he stopped, with his numerous train in the open air. I found him
seated npon a stool, with a circle of people round him, and knew him at first sight, and ho
me ; having seen eacli other several times in 1709. At that time he was but a boy, and

■S l'.J

( li,

•'II

\ I

1 r

11 I

i!'[

iM:

400

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Aro. 1773.

^;l!

went by the name of Tcaree ; but upon the deiith of his fatlicr TVahcatoua, he took upon
him that name.

After the first salutation was over, having seated me on the same stool with liimself, and
the other gentlemen on the ground by us, he began to inquire after several by name who
were with me on my former voyivge. He next inquired how long I would stay ; and when
I told him no longer tlian next day, he seemed Forry, asked me to stay some months, and
at last came down to five days ; promising that, in that time, I should have hogs in plenty.
But as I had been here already a week witliout so much as getting one, I could not put
any faith in this promise. And yet, I believe, if I had staid, we should have fared much
better than at Matavai. T!ie present I made him consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad axe,
spike-nails, knives, looking-glasses, medals, beiids, &c. In return, he ordered a pretty
good hog to be carried to our boat. We staid with him all tlie morning, during wliich
time he never suffered me to go from his side, where he was seated. I was also seated on
the same stool, which was carried from place to place by one of his attendants, wliom we
civlled stool-bearer. At length we took leave, in order to return on board to dinner ; after
which we visited him again, and made him more presents ; and he in return gave Captain
Furncaux and me each of us * hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the trading-
places : so that we got, in the whole to-day, as much fresh pork as gave the crews
of both ships a mealj and this in consequence of our having this interview with the
chief.

The 24th, early in the morning, we put to sea with a light land-breeze. Soon after we
were out, we got the wind at wist, which blew in squalls, attended with heavy showers of
rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to sea with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and did
not leave us till they Iiad disposed of their cargoes. The fruits wo got here greatly con-
tributed towards the recovery of the Adventure's sick people. Many of them who had
been so ill as not to be able to move witiiout assistance, were, in this short time, so far
recovered, that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in here, tiie Resolution
had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine, who had been long sick, and who dieu,
the second day after our arrival, of a complication of disorders without tlie least mixture of
the scurvy. I left Lieutenant Pickersgill with the cutter behind in the bay, to purchase
hogs ; as several had promised to bring some down to-day, and I was not willing to
lose them.

On the 2r)th, about noon, Mr. Pickersgill returned with eight pigs, which he got at
Oaiti-piha. lie spent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertained by Ereti, the chief of
that district. It was remarkable that this chief never once asked after Aotourou ; nor did
he take the least notice, when Mr. Pickersgill mentioned his name. And yet M. de Bou-
gainville tells us, this is the very chief who presented Aotourou to him ; wliich makes it the
more extraordinary that he sliould neitlier inquire after him now, nor when he was with us
at Matavai ; especially as they believed that we and M. Bougainville came from the same
country ; that is, from Prctane, for so they called our country. They had not the least
knowledge of any other European nation ; nor probably will they, unless some of those men
should return who had lately gone from iue jile ; of which mention shall be made by-and-hy.
We told several of them, that M. de Bougainville came from France, a name they could by
no means pronounce, nor could they pronounce that of Paris much better ; so that it is not
likely that they will remember eitlier the one or the other long. Whereas Pretanc is in
every child's mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till the evening of this
day that we arrived in Matavai bay.

L'o. 1773.

Arc. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOVAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

401

lok upon

self, and
ime who
nd when
iths, and

I plenty.
. not put
cd much
road axe,

a pretty
ng which
seated on
whom we
ler; after
B Captain
e trading-
;he crews

with the

a after we
howers of
I, and did
reatly con-

II who had
ime, so far
Resolution

who dieil,
mixture of
o purchase

willing to

he got at
the chief of
u ; nor did
A. de Bou-
lakes it the
vas with us
n the same
lot the least
if those men
! hy-and-hy.
ey could by
hat it is not
'^retane is in
ning of this

CHAPTEn XI. AN ACCOUNT OP SKVEHAL VISITS TO AND FROM OTOO ; OP GOATS BEING LEFT ON

THE island; AND MANY OTIIElt PARTICULARS WlllfU HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIPS LAY
IN MATAVAI BAY.

Before wo got to an anchor, our docks were crowded with the natives ; many of whom
I knew, anil almost all of ther . knew me. A creat crowd wore trottoii toiretlier upon the
shore; amongst whom was Otoo their king. 1 was just going to pay him a visit -> .lon I
was told he was malaow'd and gone to Oparroe. I could not coiicoive the roasi .i of his
going off in a friglit, as every one seemed pleased to see mo. A cliiof whoso name was
Maritata, was at this time on board, and advised me to put off my visit till the next morn-
ing, when he would accompany me ; which I accordingly did.

After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the sick, coopers, sail-
makers, and the guard, I sot out on the 26th for Oparree ; accompanied by Captain Fur-
neaux, Mr. Forster, and others, Maritata and his wife. As soon as we landed, we were
conducted to Otoo, whom we found seated on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with
an immense crowd round him. After the first compliments were over, I presented him with
such articles as I guessed were most valuable in liis eyes ; well knowing that it was my
interest to gain the friendship of this man, I also m<ade presents to several of his attendants;
and, in return, they offered me cloth, which I refused to accept ; telling them that what I
had given was for tii/o (friendship). The king inquired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen
that were with me in my former voyage, by name ; although I do not remember that lie
was personally acquainted with any of us. lie promised that I should have some hogs the
next day ; but I had much ado to obtain a promise from him to visit on l)oard. He said
he was mataou no to poupoue, that is, afraid of the guns. Indeed, all his actions showed
him to be a timorous prince. lie was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine,
personable, well made man as one can see. All his subjects appeared uncovered before him,
his father not excepted. Wliat is meaiit by uncovering, is the making bare the head and
' nilders, or wearing no sort of clothing above the breast.

*Vhen I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the astronomer's observatories, set
up on the same spot wliere we observed the transit of Venus in 1709. In the afternoon I
had the sick landed ; tvienty from the Adventure all ill of the scurvy ; and one from the
Resolution. I also landed some marines for a guard, and left the command to Lieutenant
Edgcumbe of the marines.

On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid mo a visit.
He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish ; and,
after some persuasion, came aboard hiujself, with his sister, a younger brother, and several
more of his attendants. To all of them I made presents ; and, after breakfast, took the king,
his sister, and as many more as I had room for, into my boat, and carried them home to
Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met by a venerable old lady, the mother of
the late Toutaha. She seized me by both liands, and burst into a flood of t:'ars, say'ng,
Tvutaha Tii/o no Toiitce matt// Tontaha — (Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, I3
dead). I was so much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible for
me to have refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and taken me from
her. I, with some difficulty, prevailed on him to let me see her again, when I gave her
an axe and some other things. Captain Furneaux, who was with me, presented the king with
two fine goats, male and female, which, if taken care of, or rather if no care at all is taken
of them, will no doubt multiidy. After a short stay we took leave and returned on board.

Very early in the morning on the 28th, I sent Mr. Pickersgill, with the cutter,
as far as Ottahourou, to endeavour to procure hogs. A little after sunrise, I had
another visit from Otoo, who brought me more cloth, a pig, and some fruit. Ilis
sister, who was with him, and some of iiis attendants, came on board ; but he and others

i I'

;'m

went to the Adventure with the like present to Captain Furneaux.
L'turned with Captain Furneaux on board the Resolution,

It was not long before
I made him a handsome

D D

Ifw:

402

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Aio. 1773.

J.J

k '

return for the present lie had hrought me, and dressed his sister out in the best manner I
could. She, the king's brother, antl one or two more, were covered before him to-day.
When Otoo came into tlie cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were sitting there. The
moment tliey saw the king enter, they stripped themselves in great haste, being covered
before. Seeing I took notice of it, they said Earee, Earee ; giving me to understand tliat
it was on account of Otoo being present. This was all the respect they paid him ; for they
never rose from their seats, nor made him any other obeisance. When the king thought

OTAHEITEAN HOGS,

proper to depart, I carried him again to Oparree in my boat ; where I entertained him, and
his people, with the bag-pipes (of which music tliey are very fond), and dancing by the
seamen. He, in return, ordered some of his people to dance also, which consisted chiefly of
contortions. There were, however, some who aid imitate the seamen tolerably well, both
in country dances and hornpipes. While we were here, I had a present of cloth from the
late Toutaha's mother. This good old lady could not look tipon me without shedding tears ;
however, she was far more composed than before. When we took leave, the king promised
to visit me again the next day ; but said that I must first come to him. In the evening
Mr. Pickersgill came back empty ; but with a promise of having some hogs, if he would
re*urn in a few days.

Next morning, after breakfast, I took a trip to Oparree, to visit Otoo, as he had requested,
accompanied by Captain Furneaux and some of the oflicers. We made him up a present of
such things as he had not seen before. One article was a broadsword ; at the very sight of
which he was so intimidated, that I had much ado to persuade him to accept of it, and to
have it buckled upon him ; where it remained but a short time, before he desired leave to
take it ofl' and send it out of his sight.

Soon after we were conducted to the theatre ; where we were entertained with a dramatic
heava, or plai/, in whicli were both dancing and comedy. The performers were five men,
and one woman, who was no less a person than the king's sister. The music consisted of
three drums only ; it lasted about an hour and a half, or two hours ; and, upon the whole,
was well conducted. It was not '(ossible for us to find out the meaning of the play. Some
part seemed adapted to the present time, as my name was frequently mentioned. Other
parts were certainly wholly unconnected with us. It apparently dift'ered in nothing, that is
in the manner of acting it, from those we saw at Ulietea in my former voyage. The
dancing-dress of the lady was more elegant than any I saw there, by being decorated with

Ava. 177a.

manner I
to-day.
ere. The
ng covered
stand that
for they
ig thought

ed him, and
iing by the
;d chiefly of
y well, both
)th from the
iding tears ;
ig promised
the evening
if he would

d requested,
a present of
rery sight of
of it, and to
red leave to

I a dramatic
e five men,
consisted of
1 the wliole,
)lay. Some
led. Other
liing, that is
j^age. The
;orated with

Sept. 1773.

C()(^KS SECOND VOVACt: ROUND THE WOULD.

403

long tassels, made of foathors, hanging fro.n the waist downward. As soon as all was over,
the king himself desirtd mu to depart; and sent into the boat different kinds of fruit and
fish, ready dressed. Will this we returned on board ; and the next morning he sent mo
more fruit, and several small parcels of fish.

Nothing farther remarkable happene*? till ten o'clock in tlie evening, when we were
alarmed with the cry of murder, and a gre.it noise on shore near the Ijottom of the bay, at
some distance from our encampment. I sispected that it was occasioned by some of our
own people ; and immediately armed a boat, and sent on shore, to know the occasion of this
disturbance, and to bring off such of our people as should be found there. I also sent to the
Adventure, and to the post on shore, to know who were missing ; for none were absent frouj
the Resolution, but those who were upon duty. The boat soon returned with throe
marines and a seaman. Some others, belonging to the Adventure, were also taken,
and being all put under confinement, the next morning I ordered tliem to be punished
according to their deserts. I did not find th.at any niiseliief was done, and our people would
confess nothing. I believe this disturbance was occasioned by their makinc too free with
the women. Be this as it will, the natives were so mucli alarmed that they fled from their
habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread many miles along the coast. For
when I went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by appointment, I found him removed, or rather
fled, many miles from the place of his abode. Even there I was obliged to wait some hours,
before I could see him at all ; and when I did, he conii)liiined of the last night^s riot.

As this was intended to be my last visit, I had taken with me a present suitible to the
occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep, which he had seen before and asked
for ; for these people never lose a thing by not asking for it. He was much pleased with
them; though he could be but little benefited, as they were all wethers; a tiling he was
made acquainted with. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears,
and opened his heart so much, that he sent for tliree hogs; one for me, one for Captain
Furneaux, and one for Mr. Forster. Tiiis last was small, of which we complained, calling
it ete, etc. Presently after a man came into the circle, and spoke to the king with some
warmth, and in a very peremptory manner ; saying something or other about hogs. We,
at first, thought he was angry with the king for giving us so many, esiiecially as he took
the little pig away with him. The contrary, however, appeared to be the true cause of his
displeasure ; for, presently after he was gone, a hog, larger than either of the other two,
was brought us in lieu of the little one. When we took leave, I acquainted him that I
should sail from the island the next day ; at which he seemed much moved, and embraced
me several times. We embarked to return on board, and he, with his numerous train,
directed their march back to Oparree.

The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water-casks repaired, and water comjjleted,
as well as the necessary repairs of the ships, I determined to put to sea witiiout farther
delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, I ordered everything to be got off from the
shore, and the ships to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the most of the
day. In the afternoon Mr. Pickersgill returned from Attahourou ; to which place I had
sent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been promised. My old friend Pottatou, the
chief of that district, his wife, or mistress (I know not which), and some more of his
friends, came along with Jllr. Pickersgill, in order to visit me. They brought me a present
of two hogs, and some fish ; and Mr. Pickersgill got two more hogs, by exchange, from
Oamo ; for he went in the boat as far as Paparra, where he saw old Oberea. She seemed
much altered for the worse, poor, and of little consequence. The first words she said to
Mr. Pickersgill were, Earee mataou ina boa — Earee is frightened ; you can have no hogs.
By this it appeared that she had little or no property, and was herself subject to the Earee;
which I believe was not the case when I was here before. The wind, which had blown
westerly .all day, having shifted .at once to the east, we put to sea ; and I was obliged to
dismiss my friends sooner than they wished to go ; but well satisfied with the reception
they had met with.

Some hours before we got under sail, a yoimg man, whose name was Poreo, came and
desired I would take him with me. I consented, thinking he might be of service to us on

dd2

' li

404

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. Skpt. 1773.

soino occasion. IMany more ofFircJ tlicmsolvcs, but I refused to take tlicm. This youth
asked mo for an axo and a 8pikc-nail for his fatiier, who whs then on board. lie had them
accordingly, and they i>arted just as we were getting under sail, more hke two strangers
tlian fatlier and son. This raised a doubt in mo whetber it was so ; wbioli was farther con-
firmed by a canoe, con<hicted by two men, coming ah)ngMide, as wo wore standing out of
the bay, and demanding tiie young man in tiio name of Otoo. I now saw tbat tite wliole
was a trick to get soinetliing from me ; well knowing tliat Otoo was not in the neigiibour-
hood, and could know nothing of tlie matter. Poreo seemed, however, at first imdetermined
whether he should go or stay ; but he soon inclined to tlio former. I told them to return
me the axe and nails, and then he should go (and so he really should), but they said they
were ashore, and so departed. Though the youth seemed pretty well satisfied, ho could not
refrain from weeping, when he viewed the land astern.

CHAPTEn XII. AN ACCOUNT OP TIIE RECEPTION WE MET WITH AT IIUAIIEINE, WITH TIIE

I.NCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED WHILE TIIE SHIPS LAY TUEUE, AND OF OMAI, ONE OF THE
NATIVES, COMING AWAY IN THE ADVENTURE.

As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I directed my course for the Island
of Iluaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it the next day, and spent the night,
making short boards under the north end of the island. At day-light in the morning of the
3rd, we made sail for the harbour of Owharre ; in which the Resolution anchored, about
nine o'clock, in twenty-four fathoms' water. As the wind blew out of the harbour, I choso

^-^^^t^^-S=

to turn in by the southern channel, it being the widest. The Resolution turned in very
well, but the Adventure, missing stays, got ashore on the north side of the channel. I had
the Resolution's launch in the water ready, in case of an accident of this kind, and sent
her immediately to the Adventure. By this timely assistance, she was got off again, with-

Skpt. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND TFIE WORLD.

40,5

with-

out receiving any dainuge. Several of tlie natives, by tliis time, had conio off to us, bring-
ing witli them some of the productions of tlie island ; and, aw soon as the shijis were botli in
safety, I hmded with Ca])taiu Furneaux, and was received by the natives with the utmost
cordiality. I distributed some presents among them ; and presently after, they brouglit
down hogs, fowls, dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, beads,
&c. The like trade was soon opened on board the siiips ; so that wo had a fair prospect of
being jilentifully sup))lied with fresh pork and fowls ; and, to people in our situation, this
was no unwelcome thing. I learnt that my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still
living, and that he was hastening to this part to see mo.

Karly next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a trading party,
toward the south end of the isle. I also sent another trading party on shore near the ships,
with which I went myself, to see that it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a
very necessary point to be attended to. Everything being settled to my mind, I went,
accompanied by Ca])tain Furneaux ami Mr. Forster, to piiy my first visit to Oree, who, I
was told, was waiting for me. We were conducted to the jilace by one of the natives ; but
were not permitted to go out of our boat, till we had gone through some jiart of the follow-
ing ceremony, usually performed at this isle, on such like occasions. The boat, in which
we were desired to remain, being landed before the chief's house, that stood close to the
shore, five young plantain-trees, which are their emblems of peace, were brought on board
separately, and with some ceremony. Tlu'ee young i>igs, with their ears ornamented with
cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three ; and a dog, the fourth. Each had its parti-
cular name and purpose, r.ither too mysterious for us to understand. Lastly, the chief sent
to me the inscription engraved on a small pi( ce of pewter, which I left with him in July,
ly^iy. It was in the same bag I had made for it, together with a ])iece of counterfeit
English coin, and a few beads, put in at the same tinus which shows how well he had taken
care of the whole. When they had made an end of putting into the boat the things just
mentioned, our guide, who still remained with us, desired us to decorate three young plan-
tain trees with looking-glasses, nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordingly done,
we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted towards the chief, through the mul-
titude; they making a lane, .as it were, for us to pass through. We were made to sit down
a few paces short of the chief, and our plantains were then taken from us, and, one by one,
laid before him, as the others had been laid before us. One was for Eatona (or God), the
second for the Earee (or king), and the third for Tii/o (or friendship). This being done, I
wanted to go to the king, but was told that he would come to me, which he accordingly
did, fell upon my neck and embraced me. This was by no means ceremonious ; the tears,
which trickled plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently besjjoke the language
of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends were introduced to us, to
whom we made presents. Mine to the chief consisted of the most valuable articles I had ;
for I had regarded this man as a father. In return he gave me a hog and a quantity of cloth,
promising that fill our wants should be supplied ; and it will soon appear how well he kept
his word. At length we took leave, and returned (m board ; and some time after JMr. Pick-
ersgill returned also with fourteen hogs. Alany more were got by exchanges on shore, and
alongside the ships, besides fowls and fruit in abundance.

This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th, together with some
of his friends, bringing me a hog and some fruit, for which I made him a suitable return.
He carried his kindness so far, as not to fail to send me every day, for my table, the very
best of ready-dressed fruit, and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant Pickersgill being
again sent with the two boats, in search of hogs, returned in the evening with twenty-eight;
and about four times that number were purchased on shore, and alongside the ships.

Next morning the trading party, consisting of only two or three people, were sent on
shore as usual ; aad after breakfast, I went to the place myself, when I learnt that one of
the inhabitants had been very troublesome and insolent. This man, being pointed out to
me, completely equipped in the war habit with a club in each hand, as he seemed bent on
mischief, I took these from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with some difficulty
forced him to retire from the place. As they told me that he was a chief, this made me too

. :\\\ f

404

(OOK S SECOND VQYAGK ROl ND THE WORLD.

Sfit. 1T73.

>. r

■

'■ I'

moro suspicious of liim, nml occasioned mc to send for n guard, wliicli till now I had tlioiiglit
unnecessary. About tlilH time, Blr. Sparrnian, liaving imprudently gone out alone, Itota-
nising, was set upon by two men, who 8trip]>ed bini of everything he had about him, except
hid trouHors, struck liiin several times with his own hanger, but liappily did him no liarni.
As soon as they had accom|)lished their end, they made off; after which another of the
natives brought a piece of eloth to cover him, and conducted him to the trading place, where
Wire a great number of the inhabitants. The very instant Mr. Sparrnian u])pt'ared in the
condition I have juist mentioned, they fled to a man with the utmost precipitation. My
first conjectures were, that they had stolen something ; but we were soon undeceived, when
wo saw Mr. Sj)arruian, and the aft'uir was related to us. As soon as I could recal a few of
the natives, and had made them sensiide that I should take no ste]) to injure those who
were innocent, I went to Oreo to com))lain of this outrage, taking with uh the man who
came b.ick with JMr. Sparrman, to confirm the complaint. As soon as the chief heard tlio
whole at' ir related, ho wept aloud, as did many others. After the first transports of his
grief were over, he began to expostulate with his people, telling them, (as far as we could
understand) how well I had treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and how
base it was in them to commit such actions. He then took a very minute account of the
things Mr. Sparrman had been robbed of, promised to do all in his power to recover them,
and rising up, desired me to follow him to my boat. When the people saw this, bt ing, as
I supposed, apprehensive of his safety, they used eve.y argument to dissuade him from what
they, no doubt, thought a rash step. He hastened into the boat, notwithstanding all they
could do or say. As soon as they saw their beloved chief wholly in my power, they set up
a great outcry. Tlio grief they showed was inexpressible j every face was bedewed with
tears ; they prayed, entreated, nay, attempted to pull him out of the boat. I even joined
my entreaties to theirs, for I could not bear to see them in such distress. All that could be
said or done, availed nothing; he insisted on my coming into the boat, which was no soi^ner
done than ho ordered it to be put ofl'. His sister, with a spirit equal to that of her royal
brother, was the only person wlij did not oppose his going. As his intention in coming
into our boat was to go with us in search of the robbers, we proceeded accordingly asi ."ar as
it was convenient by water, then landed, entered the country, and travelled s( i:'P 'ilea
inland, the chief leading the way, inquiring of every one he saw. At length he stcp])ed
into a house by the road side, ordered some cocoa-iuits for us, and after we were a little
refreshed, wanted to proceed still farther ; but this I opposed, thinking that we might be
carried to the very farthest end of the island, after tliiugs, the most of which, before they
came into our hands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief used many
arguments to persuade me to ])roeeed, telling me that 1 might send my boat round to meet
us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if I thought it too far to travel. But I
was resolved to return, and he was obliged to comply and return with me, when he saw I
would follow him no farther. I only desired he would send somebody for the things ; for
I found that the thieves had got so much start of us that we might follow them to the
remotest parts of the isle, without so much as seeing them ; besides, as I intended to sail
the next morning, this occasioned a great loss to us, by putting a stop to all manner of
trade ; for the natives were so much alarmed, that none came near us, but those that were
about the chief; it, therefore, became the more necessary for me to return, to restore things
to their former state. When we got back to our boat, we there found Oreo's sister, and
several more persons, who had travelled by land to the place. We immediately stepped into
the boat in order to return on board, without so much as asking the chief to accompany us.
He, however, insisted on going also ; and followed us into the boat in spite of the opposition
and entreaties of those about him ; his sister followed his example, and the tears and prayers
of her daughter, who was about sixteen or eighteen years of age, had no weight with her
on this occasion. The chief sat at table with us, and made a hearty dinner ; his sister,
according to custom, ate nothing. After dinner, I sufiiciently rewarded them for the con-
fidence they had put in me, and soon after carried them both on shore, where some hundreds
of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced their chief with tears of joy.
All was now joy and peace : the peojjle crowded in from every part, with hogs, fowls, and

IT 73.

Skpt. 1773.

{'OOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND TIIK WORLD.

407

fruit, 80 tliat wo preai'ntly filled two boatn; Oreo liiiDself presented 1110 with a largo liog n*"'
a quantity of fruit. The hanger (tho only thing of value Mr. Sparniian had lost) wiih part
of Ilia coat, were hrouglit Usi ; and wo were told, we mIiouM liavo tlie otherH the next duy.
btivne of the ofticerH, who were out on a Hhooting jjarty, had sonic things stolen from them,
whi.^li were returned in liko manner.

Tl(U8 ended the trouhlesonie transactions of this day, whieh I have been the more particular
m rel.iting, because it shows what great confidence this brave old chief put in us ; it also, in
8omo c!egree, shov.s that friendship is sacred with them. Oreo and I were professed friends
in all tilt) tornu- customary among them ; and he seemed to think thtt this could not bo
broken by the act of any other persons. Indeed this aeeuu-d to be tho great argument ho
made use of to bis ju-ople, when they opposed his going into niy boat. His words were to
this effect : — " Oree (mcuniiig hk>, for so I was always called) and I are friends ; I have done
nothing to forfeit his friendship; why, then, shoul*' T r jt go with him?" Wc, however,
may never find another chief who will act in the same manner under similar circumstances.
It may be asked, What had he to fear ? to whieh I answer. Nothing ; for it was not my
intention to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a moment longer than he desired. Itut
bow was ho or the people to know this ? Tboy were not ignorant, that, if ho was <mce in
my power, the whole force of tho island could not take him from mo, and that, let my
demands for his ransom have been ever so high, they must have complied with them. Thus
far their fears, botli for his and their own safety, were founded in reason.

On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring, I went to pay my
farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster. We took with
us, for a present, such things as were not only valuable but useful. I also hft with him the
inscription-plate ho had before in keeping, and another small coi>])i'r-plati;, on which were
engraved these words, "Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's ships Rusolition and Adven-
ture, September, 1773," together with some medals, all put up in a bag; of which tho chief
promised to take care, and to produce, to the first ship or ships that should arrive at the
island. He then gave me a hog ; and, after trading for six or eight more, and loading tho
boat with fruit, we took leave, when the good old chief embraced mo with tears in his eyes.
At this interview, nothing was said about the remainder of Mr. Sparrman's clothes. I judged
they were not brought in ; and, for that reason, did not mention them, lest I should give
the chief pain about things I did not give him time to recover ; for this was early in tho
morning.

When we returned to the ships, we found them crowded round with canoes full of
hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our first arrival. I had not been long on board, before
Oree himself came, to inform me, as wo understood, that the robbers were taken, and
to desire us to go on shore, either to punish, or to sec them punished ; but this coidd
not be done, as the lIe'j;>lution was just under sail, and the Adventure already out of
the harbour. The chief staid on board till we were a full half league out at sea, then
took a most affectionate leave of me, and went away in a canoe, conducted by one man
and himself, all the others having gone long before. I was sorry that it was not convenient
for me to go on shore with him, to see in what manner these people would have been
punished ; for I am satisfied, this was wiiat brougiit him on board.

During our short stay at the small but fertile isle of Huaheinc, we procured to both ships
not less than three hundred bogs, besides fowls and fruits ; and, had we staid longer, might
have got many more ; for none of these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished,
but appeared everywhere in as great abundance as ever.

Before we quitted this island, Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board his ship a
young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he bad had some property, of which he
had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. I at first rather wondered that Captain
Furneaux woidd encumber himself with this man, who, in my opiniun, was not a proper
sample of the inhabitants of these hsippy islands, not having any advantage of birth, or
acquired rank, nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion. For their people of the
first rank are much fairer, and usually better behaved, and more intelligent, than the middling
class of people, among whom Omai is to be ranked. I have, however, since my arrival in

( I

.f.'

! (

ill II

l,!:' i

408

LOOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Sept. 1773.

liWcl

England, been convinced ot my error; for, excepung his complexion, (which is undoubtedly
of a deeper hue tlian that of the carees or gentry, who, as in other countries, live a more
luxurious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun,) I much doubt whether any other
of the natives would have given more general satisfaction by his beha^'iour among us. Omai
has most certainly a very good understanding, quick parts, and honest principles ; he has a
natural good behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best company, and a proper
degree of ])ride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons of inferior rank. He has
passions of the same kind as other young men, but lias judgment enough not to indulge them
m an improper excess. I do not imagine that he has any dislike to liquor ; and if he had
fallen into company where the person who drank the most met with the most approbation,
I have no doubt but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applause of those with
whom he associated ; but, fortunately for him, he perceived that drinking was very little in use
but among inferior people, and as he was very watchful into the manners and conduct of the
persons of rank who honoured him with their protection, he was sober and modest ; and I
never heard that, during the whole time of his stay in England, which was two years, he
ever once was disguised with wine, or ever showed an inclination to go beyond the strictest
rules of moderation.

Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the first lord of the admiralty,
introduced him to his Majesty at Kev, when he met with a most gracious reception, and
imbibed the strongest impression of duty and gratitude to that great and amiable prince,
which I am ])crsuaded he will preserve to the latest moment of his life. During his stay
among us he was caressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit the
esteem of any one of them ; but his principal patrons were the Earl of Sandwich, Mr. Banks,
and Dr. Solander : the former probably thought it a duty of his office to protect and coun-
tenance an inhabitant of that hospitable country, where tiie wants and distresses of those in
his department had been alleviated and sup))lied in the most ample manner ; the others, as
a testimony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with during their
residence in his country. It is to be observed, that though Omai lived in the midst of
amusements during his residence in England, his return to his native coimtry was always in
bis ti.'oughts, and though he was not impatient to go, he expressed a satisfaction as the time
of his return approached. He embarked with me in the Resolution, when she was fitted
out for another voyage, loaded with presents from his several friends, and full of gratitude
for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced among us.

1! '

i I

CHAPTER XIII. — ARRIVAL AT, AND DEPARTrRE OF TIIE SHIPS FROM, ULIETEa ; WITH AN
ACCOl'NT OF WHAT HAPPENED THERE, AND OF OEDIDEE, ONE 01' THE NATiVES, COMINQ
AWAY IN THE RESOLUTION.

The chief was no sooner gone, than we made sail for Ulietea (where I intended to stop a
few days). Arriving off the harbour of Oliamaneno at the close of the day, we spent the
night making short boards. It was dark, but we were sufficiently guided by the fishers'
lights on the reefs and shores of the isles. The next morning, after making a few trips, we
gained the entrance of the harbour ; and, as the wind blew directly out, I sent a boat
to lie in soundings, that we might know when to anchor. As soon as the signal was
made by her, we borrowed close to the south point of the channel ; and, with our sails
set; shooting within the boat, we anchored in seventeen fathoms water. We then carried
out anchors and hawsers to warp in by ; and, as soon as the Resolution was out of the
way, the Adventure came up in like manner, and warped in by the Resolution. The
warping in, and mooring the ships, took up the whole day.

We were no sooner at anchor at the entrance of the harbour, than the natives crowded
round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. The latter they exchanged for nails and beads ;
the former we refused as yet, having already as many on boat d as we could manage. Several
we were, however, obliged to take, as many of the i)rincipal people brought off little pigs,
pepper, or cavoa-root, and young plantain-irees, and handed them into the ship, or put them

wtmwsiBBmam.

■•BH^HRK

crowded

id beads ;

Several

ttle pigs,

put them

Skpt. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

409

into the boats alongside, whether we would or no ; for if we refused to take them on board,
they would throw them into the boats. In this manner did these good people welcome us
to their country.

I had fcrgot to mention, that Tupia was much inquired after at Iluaheinc ; but at this
place every one asked about him, and the occasion of his death ; and, like true philosophers,
were perfectly satisfied with the answers wc gave thtni. Indeed, as we had nothing but
the truth to tell, the story was the same, by whomsoever told.

Next morning we paid a formal visit to Oreo, tlie chie*' of this i)art of the isle, carrying
with us the necessary presents. Wo went through no son of ceremony at landing, but were,
at once, conducted to him. He was seated in his own house, which stood near the water-
side, where he and his friends received us with great cordialiiy. He expressed much satis-
faction at seeing me again, and desired that we might exchange names, whiuii I accordingly
agreed to. I believe this is tlie strongest m.ark of friendship they can show to a stranger.
lie inquired after Tui)ia and all the gentlemen, by name, who were with me when I first
visited the island. After we had made the chief and his friends the necessary presents, wo
went on board with a hog and some fruit, received from him in return ; and in the aftirnoon
he gave me another hog, still larger, without asking for the least acknowledgment. Exelianges
for fruit &c. were mostly carried on alongside the shi[)S. I attempted to trade for these
articles on shore ; but did not succeed, as the most of them were brought in canoes from
distant parts, and carried directly to the ships.

After breakfast, on the 10th, Captain Furneauxand I paid the chief a visit ; and we were
entertained by him with such a comedy, or dranntie heara, as is gener.illy acted in these
isles. The music consisted of three drums ; the actors were seven men, and one woman,
the chief's daughter. The only entertaining part in the drama was a theft committed by a
man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficiently dis|)layed the genius of
the people in this vice. The theft is discovered before the thief lias time to carry oiF his
prize ; then a scuffle ensues with those set to guard it, who, thougli four to two, are beat off
the stage, and the thief and his accomplices bear away their jilunder in triumph. I was
very attentive to the whole of this part, being in full expectation that it woulil liave ended
very diftercntly. For I had before been informed that Veto (that is, the Tliief) was to be
acted, and had understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good
t'iparrahying (or beating), a punishment, we are told, they inflict on such as are guilty of
this crime. Be this as it may, strangers are certainly excluded from the ])rotection of this
law ; them tliey rob, with impunity, on every occasion that offers. After the play was over,
we returned on board to dinner ; and in the cool ol the evening took a walk on shore, where
we learnt from one of the natives, that nine small islands, two of which were uninhabited,
lay to the westward, at no great distance from hence.

On the lltli, e.arly in the morning, I had a visit from Oreo and his son, a youth about
twelve years of ago. The latter brouuht mo a hog and some fruit j for which I made him
a present of an axe, and dressed him in a shirt and other tilings, wliicli made him not
a little proud of himself. Having staid some hours, they went on shore ; as I also did
soon after, but to another part. The chief hearing I was on shore, came to the jjlace where
he found the boat, into which he put a iiog and a quantity of fruit, without saying a word
to anybody; and, with some of his friends, came on board and dined with us. After dinner
I had a visit from Oo-oorou, the principal chief of the isle. He was introduced to us by
Oreo, and brought with him, as a ]n-esent, a large hog, for which I made him a handsome
return. Oreo employed himself in buying hogs for me (for we now began to take of them),
and he made such bargains as I had reason to bo satisfied with. At length they all took
leave, after making me jiromise to visit them next morning ; which I accordingly did, in
company with several of the officers and gentlemen. Oreo ordered an heaea to be acted for
our entertainment, in which two very pretty young women were the actresses. This
hear.a was somewhat different from the one I saw before, .niid not so entertaining. Oreo,
after it was over, accompanied us on board, together with two of his friends.

The following day was spent in much the same manner ; and early in the morning of the
14th, I sent Mr. Fickcrsgill, with the Kesolution's launch and Adventure's cutter, to Otaha,

i 1

410

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

Sept. l"'!'.

■,i

to procure an additional supply of bananas and plantains for a sea-store ; for we could get

little uiore of tlicse articles at Ulietea than were sufficient for present consumption. Oreo,

and some of his friends, paid me a pretty early visit this morning. I acquainted the chief

that I would dine with him, and desired he would order two pigs to be dressed after

their manner, which he accordingly did ; and about one o'clock I and the officers and

gentlemen of both whips went to partake of them. When wo came to the chief's house, we

found the cloth laid ; that is, green leaves were strewed thick on the floor. Round them

we seated ourselves : presently one of the pigs came over my head souse upon the leaves,

and immediately after the other ; both so hot as hardly to be touched. The table was

garnished round with hot bread-fruit and plantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought

for drink. Each man being ready, with his knife in his hand, we turned to without

ceremony; and it must be owned, in favour of their cookery, that victuals were never

cleaner, nor better dressed. For though the pigs were served up whole, and the one

weighed between fifty and sixty pounds, and the other about half as much, yet all the parts

were equally well done, and ate much sweeter than if dressed in any of our methods. The

chief and his son, and some other of his male friends, ate with us, and pieces were handed

to others who sat behind : for we had a vast crowd a'^out >is ; so that it might be truly said

we dined in public. Tiie chief never failed to drink his glass of JMadeira whenever it came

to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when he dined with us, without ever being

once affi-'cted by it. As soon as we had dined, the boat's crew took the remainder ; and by

them, and those about them, the whole w.as consumed. When we rose up, many of the

common people rushed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which they

searched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe that, though there is plenty

of pork at these isles, but little falls to their share. Some of our gentlemen being present

when these pigs were killed and dressed, observed the chief to divide the entrails, lard, &c.

into ten or twelve equal parts, and serve it out to certain people. Several daily attended

the ships, and assisted the butchers, for the sake of the entrails of the hogs we killed.

Probably little else falls to the share of the common people. It, however, must be owned,

that they are exceedingly car'^ful of every kind of provision, and waste notliing that can be

eaten by man ; flesh and fish especially.

In the ai'ternoon we were entertained with a play. Plays, indeed, had been acted almost
every day since we had been here, either to entertain us, or for their own amusement, or
perhaps both.

Next morning produced some circumstances which fully prove the timorous disposition of
these people. We were surprised to find that none of them came ofl' to the jsiiips as usual.
Two men belonging to the Adventure having staid (m shore all niglit, contrary to orders,
my first conjectures were, that the natives had stripped them, and were now afraid to come
near us, lest we should take some step to revenge the insult ; but in order to be better
satisfied, Captain Furneaux and I went ashore to Oreo's house, wiiich we found quite empty;
he and all his family gone, and the whole neighbourhood, in a manner, quite deserted. Tlie
two men belonging to the Adventure made their appearance, and informed us that they liad
been very civilly treated by the natives, but could give no account of the cause of their
preci|)itate flight. All that we could learn, from tiie very few who durst come near us,
was, that several were killed, others wounded by our guns : pointing out to us where tlie
balls went in and out of the body, &c. This relation gave me a good deal of uneasiness for
the safety of our people gone to Otaha, fearing that joine disturbance had happened at that
island : however, in order to be better informed, I determined, if possible, to see the chief
himself. Accordingly we embarked in our boat, hiving one of the natives with us, and
rowed along-shore to the northward, the way we were told he was gone. We soon came in
sight of the car.oe in which he was ; but before wc could come up with her, he had got on
shore. Wc landed presently after, and found he was gone still farther. An immense
crowd, however, waited our landing, who entreated me to follow him. One man off'ercd to
carry Tue on his back ; but tiie whole story appearing rather more mysterious than ever,
and being all unarmed, I did not choose to separate myself from the boat, but embarked
agiiin, and rowed after him. We soon came before the place where our guide told us he

HM^

GPT.

Sept. 177''5.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

411

could get
n, Oreo,
1 the chief
3sed after
[icers and
house, we
lund them
,lic leaves,
table wag
ts brought
;o without
vcre never
1 the one
I the parts
[)ds. Tlie
?re handed
truly said
er it came
ever being
r ; and by
any of the
khich they
e is plenty
ng present
i, lard, &c.
y attended
we killed.
, be owned,
;hat can be

;ted almost
isement, or

^position of
)s as usual.

to orders,
lid to come
o be better
lite empty ;
jrtod. The
it they had
ise of their
le near us,

where the
easiness for
tied at that
ee the cliief
ith us, and
oon cante in

had got on
n immense
,n offered to

tlian ever,
it embarked
told ua he

was, and put in the boat accordingly. It grounded at some distance? from the shore, where
we were met by a venerable old lady, wife to the chief. 8he tlirew herself into my arms
and wept bitterly, insomuch that it was not possible to get one ])Iain word from her. Witli
this old lady in my hand I went ashore, contrary to tlie advice of my young man from
Otaheito, who seemed more afraid than any of us, probably believing every word the jieoplo
had told us. I found the chief seated under tlio shade of a house, before which was a large
area, and surrounded by a vast number of people. As soon as 1 came to him, he threw his
arms about me, and burst into tears; in which he was accomjianied by all tlie women and
some of the men, so that the lamentatiim became general. Astonishment alone ke])t me
from joining with them. It was some time before I could get a word from any one ; at last
all my inquiries gave me no otlier information than that they were alarmed on account of
our boats being absent ; thinking that ti.e peojilc in them had deserted from us, and that
I should take some violent means to recover them ; for when we assured them that the
boats would return back, they seemed cheerful and satisfied, and, to a man, denied that any
one was hurt, either of their own or our people ; and so it afterwards proved. Nor did it
appear that there was the least foundation for these alarms ; nor cf old we ever find out by
what means this general consternation first took its rise. After a stay of about an hour,
I returned on board ; three of the natives coming along with us, \\ ho proclaimed the peace
as we rowed along-shore to all they saw.

Thus matters were again restored to their former footing ; and tl'e next morning they
eame off to the ships as usual. After breakfast, Captain Fumeaux and I paid the chief
a visit. We found him at his own house perfectly easy; insomuch that he, and some of his
friends, came on board, and dined w ith us. I was now told that my Otaheitean young
man, Poreo, had taken a resolution to leave me. I liavc just mentioned hcforc^ his being
with lis when I followed Oreo, and his advising me not to go on .shore. lie was so much
afraid at that time, tliat he remained in the boat till he heard all matters were reconciled ;
then he came out, and presently after met with a young woman for whom he had contracted
a friendship. Having my jiow-der-horn in keeping, he came and gave it to one of my people
who was by me, and then went away with her, and I saw him no more.

In the afternoon our boats returned from Otaha, ])retty well laden with plantains ; an
article we were most in want of. T!iey made the circuit of the island, conducted by one
of the earees, whoso name was Boba, and were hospitably entertained by the people, who
provided them with victuals and lodging. The first night they were entertained witli a
play; the second night their repose was disturbed by tiie natives stealing their military
chest : this put them on making reprisals, by which means they recovered the most of what
they had h)st.

Having now got on board a large supply of refreshments, I determined to put to sea the
next morning, and made the same known to the clii(;f, who promised to see me again before
we departed. At four o'clock wo began to unmoor ; and, as soon as it was light, Oreo, his
son, and some of bis friends, came on board. IMany canoes also come off witli fruit and
hogs; the latter they even begged of us to take from them, calling out Tli/o boa atoi — I am
your friend, take my hog, and give me an axe ; but our decks were already so full of them
that we coidd hardly move, having on board both ships between tliree and four hundred.
By the increase of our stock, together with what we had salted and consumed, I judge that
we got at this island four hundred or upwards : many, indeed, were only roasters ; others
again weighed one hundred pounds, or upwards ; but the general run was from forty to
sixty. It is not easy to say how many we miglit have got, could we have found room for
all that were offered us.

The chief and his friends did not leave mc till we were under sail ; and, before he went
away, pressed me much to know if I would not return, and when i Questions which were
daily put to mo by many of these islanders. Aly Otaheitean youth's leaving me proved of
no consequence, as many young men of this island voluntarily offered to come away with
us. I thought proper to take on board one, who wiis about seventeen or eighteen years of
age, named Oedidce, a native of Bolabola, ami a near relation of the great Opoony, chief of
that island. Soon after we were out of the harbour, and had made sail, wc observed a canoe

ili!

iil'i'til

li l1

>i i iiiin nn iiii<miiiiiiii i | i

t,'

412

COOK'S SECOND .VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Skpt. 177n,

following us, conducted by two men. Wliercupon I brought to, and tliey presently came
alongside, having brought nie a present of roasted fruit and roots from Oreo. I made ihem
a pro|)er return before I dismissed them, and then set sail to the west, with the Adventure
in company.

:■; .

, ]

;-:

I; ;

I' f

ClIAPTKR XIV. — AN ACCOUNT OF A SPANISH SHIP VISITING OTAIIEITE ; THE PRESENT STATK
OP THE ISLANDS; WITH SOME OUSEUVATIONS ON THE DISEASES AND CUSTOMS OF THE
INIIAHITANTS, AND SOME MISTAKES CONCERNING THE WOMEN CORRECTED.

I SHALL now give some farther account of tliese islands ; for, although I have been pretty
minute in relating the daily transactions, some tilings, which are ratiier interesting, have
been omitted.

Soon after otir arrival at Otaheite, we were informed tliat a ship, about the size of the
Resolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour near the S.E. end of the island, where she
remained about three weeks ; and had been gone about three months before we arrived.
We were told tliat four of tlie natives were gone away in her, whose names were Debedebea,
Paoodou, Tanaddoee, and Opahiah. At tliis time we conjectured tiiis was a French ship;
but on our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, we learnt she was a Spaniard, which had been
sent out from America. Tiie Otaheiteans complained of a disease communicated to them
by the people in tliis ship, wiiich they said affected the head, throat, and stomach, and
at lengtli killed them. They seemed to dread it much, and were continually inquiring
if we had it. This shij) they distinguished by the name of Pa/iai no Pep-pe (ship of Peppe),
and called the disease Apa no Pt'p pe, just as they call the venereal disease Ajm no Pretane
(English disease), though tliey, to a man, say it was bnmght to tlie isle by M. de Bongain-
ville ; but I have already observed, that tliey thought M. Bougainville came from Pretane,
as well as every other ship wliieli has touched at the isle.

Were it not for this assertion of the natives, and none of Captain Wallis's people being
affected witli the %encreal disease, either while they were at Otaheite, or after they left it,
I should have concluded that, long before these islanders were visited by Europeans, this,
or some disease which is near akin to it, had existed amongst them ; for I have heard
them speak of peojile dying of a disorder which we interpreted to be the pox, before tliat
period ; but be this as it will, it is now far less common amongst them than it was in the
year 17^)9, when I first visited tiiese isles. They say they can cure it, and so it fully
appears ; for, notwithstanding most of my people made pretty free with the women, very
few ci them were afterw.ards affected with the disorder ; and those who were, had it in so
slight a manner that it was easily removed ; but amongst tlie natives, whenever it turns to
a pox, they tell us it is incurable. Some of our peoi)le pretend to have seen some of them
who had this last disorder in a high degree ; but the surgeon, who made it his business to
inquire, could never satisfy himself in this point. These people are, and were before the
Europeans visited them, very subject to scrofulous diseases; so that a seaman might easily
mistake one disorder for another.

The Island of Otaheite, which, in the )'ears 17t)7 'ind 176^, as >t were swarmed witli
hogs and fowls, was now so ill supplied with these animals, that hardly anything could
induce the owners to part with them. The few the}' had at this time among them, seemed
to be at the disposal of the kings ; for while we lay at Oaitipiha Bay, in the kingdom of
Tiarrabou, or lesser Peninsula, every hog or fowl we saw, wo were told, belonged to
Waheatooa ; and all we saw in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greater Peninsula,
belonged to Otoo. During the seventeen days we were at this island, we got but twenty-
four hogs ; the half of which came from the two kings themselves ; and, I believe, the other
half was sold us by their permission or order : we were, however, abundantly supjilied with
all the fruits the island produces, except bread-fruit, which was not in season either at this or
the other isles. Cocoa-nuts and plantains were wliat we got the moat of; the latter, together
with a few yams and other roots, were to us a succedancum for bread. At Otaheite we
got great plenty of apples, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them Almeya. This fruit
was common to all the isles ; but a|>ples we got only at Otaheite, and found them of infinite

Skpt. ITT'*?.

lently camo
niiule ill em
Adventure

SKNT ST A IT
MS OF xnE

been pretty
.'sting, have

a sizo of the
, where she
we arrived.
Debedebea,
'rcneh ship;
ch had been
ted to tliein
oiiiacli, and
ly inquirinir
[> of Peppe),
! no Pretane
de Boiigain-
om Pretane,

people being

they left it,

bpeans, this,

[ have heard

before tliat

was in the

so it fully

voiiien, very

had it in so

r it turns to

omo of then\

s business to

re before tiie

might easily

warmed with
^tiling could
loni, seemed
kingdom of
jelongcd to
Peninsula,
)ut twenty-
ve, the other
pjdied with
er at this or
,ter, together
Otaheite we
Tills fruit
in of infinite

Sept. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

413

use to the scorbutic peojde. Of all the seeds that have been brought to these islands by
Europeans, none have succeeded but pumpkins, and these they do not like ; which is not to
be wondered at.

The scarcity of hogs at Otaheite may bo owing to two causes ; first, the number which
have been consumed and carried off by the shipping which have touched here of late years;
and, secondly, to the freqiu-nt wars between the two kingdoms. AVe know of two since the
year 17''7: iit jircsent a jieace subsists between them, though they do not seem to entertain
much friendship for each other. I never could learn the cause of the late war, nor who got
the better in the conflict. In the* battle, which put an end to the dispute, many were killed
on both sides. On the part of Opoureonu, fell Toutaha, and several other chiefs, who were
mentioned to me by name. Toutaha lies interred in the family Marui at Oparree ; and his
mother, and several other women who were of his household, are now taken care of by Otoo
the reigning ]>rince ; a man who, at first, did not ajipear to us to much advantage. I know
but little of Walieatooa of Tiarrabou. Thia ]>rince, who is not above twenty years of age,
appeared with all the gravity of a man of fifty. His subjects do not uncover before him,
or pay him iiny outward obeisance, as is done to Otoo ; nevertheless, they seem to sliow him
full as much resjiect, and he appeared in rather more state. lie was attended by a few
middle-aged or elderly nu'n, who seemed to be liis etmnsellors. Tiiis is what appeared to
me to be the then state of Otaheite. The other islaiuld, that is, Huaheine, Ulietea, and
Otaha, were in a more flourishing state than they were when I was there before. Since
that time, they had cnjoyeJ the blessing of peace ; tiie people seemed to be as happy as any
under heaven ; and well they may, for they jiossess not only the necessaries, but many of
tlie luxuries of life in the greatest profusion ; and njy young man told me that hogs, fowls,
and fruits are in equal plenty at Bola-bola, a tiling which Tupia would never allow. To
clear up this seeming contradiction, I must observe, that the one was jirejudiced against, and
the other in favour of, this isle.

The produce of the islands, the manners and customs of tlie natives, &c. having been
treated at large in the narrative of my former voyage, it will be unnecessary to take notice
of these subjects in this, unless where I can add new matter, or clear up any mistakes which
may have been committed.

As I had some reason to believe, that amongst their religious customs, human sacrifices
were sometimes considered as necessary, I went one day to a Marai in Matavai, in company
with Cajjtain Furneaux ; having with us, as I had upon all other occasions, one of my men
who spoke their language tolerably well, and several of the natives, one of whom aiij)earcd
to be an intelligent, sensible man. In the Marai was a Tupapow, on which lay a coipsu
and some viands ; so that everything promised success to my inquiries. I began with
asking questions relating to the several objects before me, if the plantains &e. were for the
Eatiui ? If they sacrificed to the Eatua, hogs, dogs, fowls, &c., to all of which lie answered
in the atfirniative. I then asked, if they sacrificed men to the EutuA ? he answered, Taata
eno ; that is, Bad men they did, first Tiimrrahi/, or beating them till they were dead. I
tlien asked him, If good men were put to death in this manner? his answer was, No, only
Taata <'no. I asked him. If any Earees were ? he said, they had hogs to give to the Eatua;
and again repeated Taata eno. I next asked him. If Totctows, that is, servants or slaves,
who had no hogs, dogs, or fowls, but yet were good men, if they were sacrificed to tiio
Eatua? His answer was. No, only bad men. I asked him several more questions, and
all iiis answers seemed to tend to this one point, that men for certain crimes were condemned
to be sacrificed to the gods, provided they had not wherewithal to redeem tliemselves.
This, I think, implies that, on some occasions, human sacrifices are considered as necessary;
])artieularly when they take such men as have, by the laws of the country, forfeited their
lives, and have nothing to redeem them ; and such will generally be found among the lower
class of people.

The man of whom I made these inquiries, as well as some others, took some pains to
explain the whole of this custom to us ; but we were not masters enough of their language
to understand them. I have since learnt from Omai, that they ofl^'er human sacrifices to
the Supreme Being. According to his account, what men shall be so sacrificed depends on

!t i

;,! )

11?

M !

'.'■';|.

; ill

414

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Skpt. 1773.

(,..

the caprice of the high-priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn occasion, retires
alone into the house of God, and stays there some time. Wiien he comes out he informs
tliem, tliat lie has seen and conversed with their great God (the high priest alone having
that privilege), and that he has asked for a liuman sacrifice, and tells them that he has
desired such a person, naming a man present, whom most probably the priest has an
antipathy against. lie is immediately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resent-
ment; who, no doubt, (if necessary,) has address enough to persuade the people that he
was a bad man *. If I except their funeral ceremonies, all the knowledge that has been
obtained of their religion, has been from information ; and as their language is but imper-
fectly understood, even by those who pretend to the greatest knowledge of it, very little on
this head is yet known with certainty.

The liquor which they make from the plant called Ava aca, is expressed from the root,
and not from the leaves, as mentioned in the narrative of my former voyage. The manner
of preparing this liquor is as simple r.:; '* is disgusting to a European. It is thus : several
people take some of the root and chew it till it issofi. and pulpy; then they spit it out into
a platter, or other vessel, every one into the same ; when a sufficient quantity is chewed,
more or less water is put to it, according as it is to be strong or weak ; the juice thus diluted
is strained through some fibrous stuff like fine shavings ; after which it is fit for drinking ;
and this is iilways done immediately. It has a pepperish taste, drinks flat, and rather
insipid. But though it is intoxicating, I saw only one instance where it had tliat eflx'ct ;
as they generally drink it with great moderation, and but little at a time. Sometimes they
chew this root in their mouth's, as Europeans do tobacco, and swallow their si)ittle ; and
sometimes I have seen them eat it wholly. At Ulietea they cultivate great quantities of
this plant. At Otaheite but very little. I believe there are but few islands in this sea
that do not produce more or less of it ; and the natives apply it to the same use, as appears
by Le Maire's account of Horn Island, wherein he speaks of the natives making a liquor
from a plant in the same manner as above mentioned.

Great injustice has been done to the women of Otaheite, and the Society Isles, by those
who have represented them, without exception, as ready to grant the last favour to any man
who will come up to their price. But this is by no means the case : the favours of married
women, and also the unmarried of the better sort, are as difficult to be obtained here as in
any other country whatever. Neither can tlie charge be understood indiscriminately of the

" Mr. Williams, in his " Missionary Enterprises in tlie
Soutli Sea Islands," informs us tiiiit " the system of human
Baerifices did not prevail at the Navigator's Islands, hut at
theHervevGronp.and still iiiorcattheTahitianandSuciety
Islands, where it was carried to an extent truly appalling.
There was one ceremony called Raiimalavehi raa, ' the
feast of restoration,' at which no less than seven human
viotims were always required. This festival was cele-
brated after an invading .army had driven the inhahitants
to the mountains, and had desecrated the moral hy cutting
down the branches of the sacred trees, and cookinp their
food with them, and with the wooden altars and decora-
tions of the sacred place. As soon as the retirement of
the invaders allowed tlie refugees to leave their hidipg-pluce,
their first object was to celebrate this ' feast of restora-
tion,' which was supposed to restore the moral to its
previous sanctity, and to reinstate the god in his former
glory. A few years ago [Mr. Williams wrote in 183/],
I sent to England a very sacred relic called maro ura,
or the Rod Sash. This was a piece of net-work, about
sovrn inches wide and six feet long, upon which the red
feathers of the parroquet were neatly fastened. It was
used at the inauguration of their greatest kings, just as the
crown is with us; and the most honourable appellation
which a chief could receive w.as Arii maro lira, * King of
the KedSash!' A new piece, about eighteen inches in
length, was attached at the inauguration of every sovereign ;
to accomplish which several hum.in victims were required.
The first was for the man raa lilt, or the stretchio^ it
upon pegs in order to attach to it the new piece. Another

was necessary for the falu raa, or attaching the new por-
tion ; and a third for the piu raa, or twitching the sacred
relic off the pegs. This not only invested the sash itself
with a high measure of solemn importance, but also
rendered the chiefs who wore it most noble in public
estimation. On the eve of war also, human victims were
invariably offered."

When the priest declared a sacrifice necessary, messen-
gers were despatched by the king to the various chiefs, to
collect the requisite number of victims. These emissaries
would inquire, on entering his house, whether the chief
had a broken calabash, or a rotten cocoa-nttt at hand,
(terms very well understood,) on which the devoted
objects, ofien lung before fixed upon, were pointed out,
ami instantly knocked down with a small round stone
concealed in the hollow of the hand by the messengers,
when others r.ished in and crushed the skull to pieces by
beating it in with stones, after which the body was carried
to the moral. If the victim took refuge in a house, he was
speared to death from the outside.

As soon as one of a family had been selected, all the
other male members of it were looked upon as devoted to
the same horrid purpose. It would avail them nothing if
they removed to another island, for the reason of their
removal would soon be known there, and whenever a
sacrifice was required, it would je sought amongst them.

A very alfecting .account of the last human f.aciifice
ofl^crcd up in T.ahiti, is given in Mr. Williams's interesting
and valuable work. — Ed.

3kpt. 1773.

Skpt. 17/3.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE VV^ORLD-

415

ion, retires
he informs
me having
;hat he has
est h:is ail
st's resent-
)le that he
,t has been
but iinper-
;ry little on

m the root,
riie manner
us : several
, it out into
7 is chewed,
thus diluted
r drinking ;
, and rather
that eflFect ;
letimes they
spittle; and
quantities of
I in this sea
J, as appears
;ing a liquor

slcs, by those
r to any man
rs of married
led here as in
nately of the

ling tlic new por-
itcliiiig tlie sacred
ed the sash itself
)rtanoe, hut also
noble in public
nan victims were

ecessary, messcn-
various chiefs, to
These emissaries
•vhelher the chief
jcoa-nul at hand,
hich the devoted
were iioiiitcd out,
iraall round stone
ly the messenger!,
skull to pieces by
e body was carried
in a house, he was

en selected, all tlic
upon as devoted tn
ail them nothing if
he reason of tlicir
■, ,ind whenever a
lit amongst tbeiu.
ist human saciifirc
illiams's interesting

unmarried of the lower class, for many of these admit of no such familiarities. That there
are prostitutes here, as well as in other countries, is very true j perhaps more in pro-
portion, and such were those who came on board tlie ships to our people, and frequented
the post we had on shore. By seeing these mix indiscriminately with those of a different
turn, even of the first rank, one is, at first, inclined to think tliat they arc all disposed the
same way, and that the only difference is in the price. But the truth is, the woman who
becomes a prostitute does not seem, in their opinion, to have committed a crime of so deep
a dye as to exclude her from the esteem and society of tlie community in general. On the
whole, a stranger who visits England might with equal justice draw the characters of the
women there, from those which he might meet with on board the ships in one of the naval
ports, or in the purlieus of Covent Garden and Drury Lane. I must, however, allow that
they are all completely versed in the art of coquetry, and that very few of them fix any
bounds to their conversation. It is, therefore, no wonder that they have obtained the
character of libertines.

To what hath been said of the geography of these isles, in the narrative of my former
voyage, I shall now only add that we found the latitude of Oaitipiha Bay, in Otaheite, to
be 17° 46' 28" south, and the longitude 0" 21 25 l' east from Point Venus ; or 149" 13' 24"
west from Greenwich. The difference both of latitude and longitude, between Point Venus
and Oaitipiha, is greater than I supposed it to be, when I made the circuit of the island in
1769, by two miles and 4| miles respectively. It is, therefore, highly probable that the
whole island is of a greater extent than I at that time estimated it to be. Tlie astronomers
set up their observatory, and made their observations on Point Venus, the latitude of which
they found to be 17° 29' 13'' south. Tliis differs but two seconds from that which Mr. Green
and I found; and its longitude, viz., 149° 34' 49/," west, for anything that is yet known to
the contrary, is as exact.

Mr. Kendal's watch was found to be gaining on mean time }{" 163 per day, which is only
0'' 142 less than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, consequently its error in longitude was trifling.

BOOK II.

FROM Ol'R DEPARTLRli FROM TIIR SOCIKTY ISLES, TO OUR RETURN TO

THEM THE SECOND TIME.

AND LEAVING

CHAPTER I. PASSAGE FROM ULIETEA TO THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF

THE DISCOVERY OP HEHVEY's ISLAND, AND THE INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED AT
MIDDLEBURG.

After leaving Ulietea, as before mentioned, I steered to the west, inclining to the south,
to get clear of the tracks of former navigators, and to get into the latitude of the islands of
]\liddleburg and Amsterdam ; for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch
there if I found it convenient, before I hauled up for New Zealand. I generally lay to every
night, lest we might pass any land in the dark. Part of the 21st and 22nd, the wind blew
from N.W., attended with thunder, lightning, and rain ; having a large swell from S.S.E.
and S., which kept up for several days — an indication that no land was near us in that
direction. On the 23rd, at ten o'clock in the morning, land was seen from the topmast-
head, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. by AV. to S.W, by S. We hauled up for
it with the wind at S.E., and found it to consist of two or three small islets, connected togetlier
by breakers like most of tlie low isles in the sea, lying in a triangular form, and about six
leagues in circuit. They were clothed with wood, among which were many cocoa-nut trees.
We saw no people, or signs of inhabitants, and had reason to think there were none. Tiie
situation of this isle, which is in the latitude of 19" 18' south, longitude 158" 54' west, is not
very different from that assigned by 3Ir. Dalrymple to La Dczena. But as this is a point
not easily determined, I named it Hervey's Island, in honour of the Honourable Captain
Hervey of the Navy, one of the Lords of the Admiralty, and now Earl of Bristol.

11 i

416

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND TFIE WORLD.

Oct. I77n.

i H

IMi

As the landing on this isle, if practicable, would have caused a delay wliicli I could ill
spare at this time, we resr.med our course to the west ; and on the 25tli wo again began
to use cur sea-biscuit, the fruit, w'nich had served as a succedaneum, being all conaumed ;
but our stock of fresh pork still continued, each man having as mucli every day as was
needful. In our route to the west, we now and then saw men-of-war and tropic birds, and
a small sea-bird, which is seldom seen but near the shores of the isles ; we therefore con-
jectured that we had i)assed some land at no great distance. As we advanced to the west,
the variation of the compass gradually increased, so that on the 21)tli, being in the latitude
of 21" 2(i' south, longitude I/O" -'()' west, it was 10" 45' east.

At two o'clock, P.M., on the 1st of October, we made the island of IMiddleburg, bearing
W.S.W., at six o'clock it extended from S.W. by W. to N.W., distant four leagues, at
which time another land was seen in the direction of N.N.W. The wind being at S.S.E.,
I hauled to the S., in order to get round the south end of the island before the morning ;
but at eight o'clock a small island was seen lying off it ; and not knowing but tliey miglit
be connected by a reef, the extent of which we must be ignorant of, I resolved to spend the
iiight where we were. At daybreak the next morning we bore up for the S.W. side of
Middleburg, passing between it and the little isle above mentioned, where we found a clear
channel two miles broad.

After ranging the S.W. side of the greater isle to about two-thirds of its length, at the
distance of half a mile from the shore, without seeing the least prospect of either anchorage
or landing-place, we bore away for Amsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely
turned our sails before we observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another aspect,
seeming to offer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled the wind, and plied in
imder the island. In the meantime, two canoes, each conducted by two or three men,
came boldly alongside ; and some of them entered the ship without hesitation This mark
of confidence gave me a good opinion of these islanders, and determined me to visit them if
possible. After making a few trips, we found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five
fathoms' water, and gravel bottom, at three cables' length from the shore. The highest land
on the island bore S.E. by E., the north point N.E. ' E., and the west S. by W. 1 W., and
the island of Amsterdam extending from N, by W. ^ W. to N.W. ^ W. We had scarcely
got to an anchor before we were surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who
had brought wiih them cloth, and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c.
Several came on board ; among whom was one, who, by the authority he seemed to have
over the others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him a present of a hatchet,
spike-nails, and several other articles, with which he was highly plea-sed. Thus I obtained
the friendship of this chief, whose name was Tioony.

Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony, who conducted
us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of the ships, where landing was
extremely easy, and the boats secure against the surf. Here we found an immense crowd
of people, who welco.Tied us on shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much
as a stick, or any other weapon in their hands ; an indubitable sign of their ])acific inten-
tions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c. to exchange for
nails, that it was some time before we could get room to land. They seemed to be more
desirous to give than receive; for many who could not get near the boats, threw into them,
over the others' heads, whole bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking or
waiting to get anything in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right
and left, and make room for us to land. He then conducted us up to his house, which was
situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of a fine lawn, and under the
shade of some shaddock-trees. The situation was most delightful. In front was the sea
and the ships at anchor ; behind, and on each side, were jdantations, in which were some of
the richest productions of nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which we were seated,
and the people seated themselves in a circle round us on the outside. Having the bagpipes
with us, I ordered them to be played ; and, in return, the chief directed three young women
to sing a song, which they did with a very good grace ; and having made each of them a
present, this immediately set all the woii'.en in the circle a-singing. Their songs were

Oct. 1773.

I could ill
gain began
conaunicd ;
ilay as was

hirdn, and
reforo con-
) till! west,
lie lutitiido

rg, bearing
leagues, at
; at S.S.E.,

morning ;
they miglit

spend tlie
W. side of
und a clear

igtli, at the

• anchorage
ad scarcely
her aspect,
nd plied in

three men.
This mark
visit them if
twenty-five
lighest land
. jr W., and
had scarcely
people, who
)r nails, &c.
ned to have
' a hatchet,
s I obtained

10 conducted
landing was
Tiense crowd
had so much
acific inten-
■xeliango for
1 to be more
IV into them,
Br asking or

to the right
), which was
nd under the

was the sea
were some of

were seated,
the bagpipes
oung women
li of them a

• songs were

Ocr. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOV AGE ROUND THE >V011LD.

417

musical and harmonious, and nowise harsh or disagreeable. After sitting here some time,
we were, at our own request, conducted into one of the adjoining plantations, wlure tiio
chief had another house, into which we were introduced. Dananas and cocoa-nuts were set
before us to eat, and a bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of caea for us to
drink. Pieces of the root were first ottered to us to chew ; but as wo excused ourselves from
assisting in the operation, this was performed by others. When sutticiently chewed, it was
jMit into a large wooden bowl, then mixed with water, in the manner already related ; and
as soon as it was properly strained for drinking, they niado cups by folding of green leaves,
which iield near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of these filled with the liquor.
But I was the only one who tasted it ; the manner of brewing it having quenched the thirst
of every one else. The bowl was, however, soon emptied of its contents, of which both men
and women partook. I observed that they never filled the same cup twice ; nor did two
persons drink out of the same ; each had a fresh cup and fresh liquor. This house was
situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an area before it, on which we were seated.
The whole was planted round with fruit and other trees, whose spreading bran* in s attbrded
an agreeable shade, and whose fragrance diffused a pleasing odour through the air.

Before we had well viewed the plantation it wao noon, and we returned on board to
dinner, with the chief in our company. He sat at table, but ato nothing, which, as wo
had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraorainary. After dinner wo landed again, and were
received by the crowd as before. Mr. Forster, with his botanical party, and some of the
officers and gentlemen, walked into the country. Captain Furneaux and myself were con-
ducted to the chief's house, where fruit and some greens, which had been stewed, were set
before us to eat. As we had but just dined, it cannot be supposed we ate much ; but
Oedidee, and Omai, the man on board the Adventure, did honour to the feast. After this
we signified our desire of seeing the country. - Tioony very readily assented, and conducted
UP through several plantations, which were laid out with g eat judgment, and inclosed with
very neat fences made of reeds. They were all in very good order, and well planted with
various fruit-trees, roots, &c. The chief took some pains to let us know the most of them
belonged to himself. Near some of the houses and in the lanes that divided the plantations
were running about some hogs, and very large fowls, which were the only domestic animals
we saw ; and these they did not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the
whole day, offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning ; which determined me
to leave this island, and to visit that of Amsterdam.

The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country and the very
obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with each other in doing what they
thought would give us pleasure. The ships were crowded with people the whole day, traf-
ficking with those on board, in which the greatest good order was observed ; and I was sorry
that the season of the year would not admit of my making a longer stay with them. Early
the next morning, while the ships were getting under sail, I went ashore with Captain
Furneaux and Mr. Forster to take leave of the chief. He met us at the landing-place, and
would have conducted us to his house had we not excused ourselves ; we therefore were
seated on the grass, where we spent about half an hour in the midst of a vast crowd of
peoj)le. After making the chief a present, consisting of various articles and an assortment
of garden seeds, I gave him to understand that we were going away, at which he seemed
not at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, in order to accompany
us on board ; but seeing the Resolution under sail, he called to a canue to put alongside, into
which he and his friends went, and returned on shore. While he remained in our boat, he
continued to exciiange fish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a manner wholly to
himself; but when on shore, I never saw him make the least exchange.

i: E

[[I

liiL

•. I ■

il .

4IR

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE HOUND THE WOULD.

Oct. 177.1.

I [•n

CUAPTER II. — THE AUniVAL OF THE SHIPS AT AMSTEUDAM ; A OESCniPTION OP A PLACE
OF WOUSHIP ; AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED WHILE THEV
REMAINED AT THAT ISLAND.

Aa soon as I was on board, wc made sail lown to Amsterdam. Tlie people of this isle
were so little afraid of us, that some met lis in three canoes about midway between the two
isles. They used their utmost efforts to get on board, but without effect, as we did not
shorten sail for them, and the rope which wo gave them broke. They then attempted to
board the Adventure, and met with the same disappointment. We ran along the S.W. co.ist
of Amsterdaui at half a mile from shore, on which the sea broke in a great surf. Wo liad
an op))ortunity, by the help of our glasses, to view the face of the island, every part of which
seemed to be laiil out in plantations. Wc observed the natives running along the shore, dis-
playing small white flags, which we tooV. loi ensigns of peace, and answered them by hoisting
a St. George's ensign. Three men belonging to JMiddleburg, who, by some means or other,
liad been left on board the Adventure, now left her, and swam to the shore, not knowing
that wc intended to stop at this isle, and having no inclination, as may bo supposed, to go
away with us.

As soon as wc ojiencd the west side of the isle, wo wcro mot by several canoes, each con-
ducted by tlireo or four men. They came boldly alongside, presented us with some eara
root, and then came on board without farther ceremony, inviting us, by all the friendly signs
they could make, to go to their island, and pointing to the place where we should anchor, — •
at least so we understood them. After a few boards, we anchored in Van Diemeifs Road,
in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a cable's length from the breakers which line the
coast. We carried out the coasting anchc nnd cable to seaward, to keep the ship from tail-
ing on the rocks, in case of a shift of w. . or a calm. This last anchor lay in forty-seven
fathoms water, so steep was the bank on which we anchored. By this time wo were
crowded with people ; some came off in canoes, and others swam ; but, like those of tho
other isle, brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, &c., for which the seamen only
bartered away their clothes. As it was probable they would soon feel the effects of this kind
of traffic, with a view to put a stop to it, and to obtain the necessary refreshments, I gave
orders that no sort of curiosities should be purchased by any person wliatevcr.

Tho good effect of this order was found in the morning ; for when the natives saw we
would purchase nothing but eatables, they brought oft' bananas and cocoa-nuts in abundance,
some fowls and pigs, all of which they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth ; even
old rags of any sort was enough for a pig or a fowl.

Matters being thus established, and proper persons appointed to trade under the direction
of the officers to prevent disputes, after breakfast, I landed, accompanied by Captain Fur-
neaux, Mr. Forster, and several of tho officers ; having alone with us a chief, or person of
some note, whose name was Attago, who had attached himself to me from the first moment
of his coming on board, wiiich was before we anchored. I know not how he came to discover
that I was the commander ; but, certain it is, he was not long on deck before he singled mc
out from all the other gentlemen, making me a present of some cloth, and other things he
had about him ; and, as a greater testimony of friendship, we now exchanged names, a
custom which is practised at Otaheite and the Society Isles. Wo were lucky, or rather avo
may tiiank the natives, for having anchored before a narrow creek in the rocks which line
the shore. To this creek we were conducted by my friend Attago ; and there we landed
dry on the beach, and within the breakers, in the face of a vast crowd of people, who received
us in the same friendly m.anner that those of jMiddleburg had done.

As soon as we were landed, all the gentlemen set out into the country, accompanied by
some of the natives j but the most of them remained with Captain Furneaux and me, who
amused ourselves some time in distributing presents amongst them, especially to such as
Attago pointed out, which were not many, but who I afterwards found were of superior
rank to himself. At this time, however, he seemed to be the principal person, and to be

M i

Oct. 177-^

P A PI.ACR
HILK TIIEY

of tin's isle
'Oil tlic two
wc (lid not
itenipted to
S.W. coast
. Wo liacl
ii't of which
! shore, dis-
hy lioisting
19 or othtT,
)t knowing
losed, to go

, iiacli con-
sonio eaen
eiidly signs
1 anclior, — ■
ion's Road,
ich line the
) from tail-
forty-seven
i wo were
lose of the
amen only
f tiiis kind
its, I gave

OS saw we
ihundance,
oth ; even

3 direction
itain Fur-
person of
it moment
o discover
ingled mc
things ho
names, a
rather we
vliich line
ve landed
) received

lanied by
me, who

|o such as
superior

ind to be

Oct. 177;?.

( OOK'S SECOND V()YA(JI<: ROUND TIIK WOULD.

411)

obeyed as such. After wc had spent some time on the beach, as we complained of the heat,
Attago immediately conducted and seated us under the shade of ii tree, ordering the i)eoplo
to form a ciivle round us. Tliis they did, and never once attempted to i)ush themselves upon
us, like the Otalieiteans.

After sitting here .nonio time, and distributing some jn'escnts to those about us, wo signi-
fied our desire to see the country. The chief immediately took the hint, and conducted ua
along a lane that led to an open green, on the one side of which was a house of worship,
built on a mount tliat had been raised by the hand of man, about sixteen or eighteen feet
above the common level. It hail an oblong figure, and was inclosed by a wall or i)arapet of
stone, about throe feet in height. From this wall the mount rose with a gentle 8loj)e, and
was covered with a green turf. On the top of it stood the house, which had the same figure
as the mount, about twenty feet in length, and fourteen or si.xteen broad. As soon as wo
came before the ])laee, every one seated himself on the green, about fifty or sixty yards from
the front of the house. Presently came three elderly men, who seated themselves betw eon
us and it, and began a speech, which I uinlerstood to be a prayer, it being wholly directed to
the house. This lasted about ten minutes ; and then the jiriests, for such I took them to be,
came and sat down along with us, when we made them presents of such things as were about
us. Having then made signs to them that we wanted to view the promises, my friend Attago
immediately got up, and going with us, without showing the least backwardness, gave us
full liberty to examine every part of it.

In the front were two stone steps leading to the top of the wall ; from this the ascent to
the house was easy, round which was a fine gravel walk. The houfo was built, in all
respects, like to their ccnnmon dwelling-houses; that is, with posts and rafters, and covered
with palm thatch. The oaves came down within about three feet of the ground, which
space was filled up with strong matting made' of palm leaves as a wall. The fioor of the
house was laid with fine gravel, except in the middle, where there was an oblong sipiare of
blue pebbles, raised about six inches higher than the floor. At one corner of the house
stood an image rudely carved in wood, and on one side lay another ; each about two feet in
length. I, who had no intention to offend either them or their gods, did not so much as
touch them, but asked Attago, as well as I could, if they wore Kittuas or gods. Whothes
he understood me or no I cannot say ; but he immediately turned them over and over, in as
rough a manner as he would have done any other log of wood, which convinced me that
they were not there as representatives of the Divinity. I was curious to know if the dead
were interred there, and asked Attago several questions relative thereto ; but I was not sure
that he understood me ; at least I did not understand the answers he made well enough to
satisfy my inquiries. For the reader must know that, at our first coming among those
people, we hardly could understand a word they said : even my Otahcitean youth, and the
man on board the Adventure, were equally cat a loss : but more of this by and bye. Before
we quitted the house, we thought it necessary to make an offering at the altar. Accord-
ingly we laid down upon the blue pebbles, some medals, nails, and several other things ;
which we had no sooner done than my friend Attago took them up, and put them in his
pocket. The stones with which the walls were made that inclosed this mount, were some
of them nine or ten feet by four, and about six inches thick. It is difficult to conceive how
they can cut such stones out of the coral rocks.

This mount stood in a kind of grove open only on the side which fronted the high-road
and the green on which the people were seated. At this green or open place, was a junction
of five roads, two or throe of which appeared to be very public ones. The groves were
composed of several sorts of trees. Among others was the etoa tree, as it is called at Ota-
heite, of which are made clubs, &c., and a kind of low palm, which is very common in the
northern parts of New Holland.

After we had done examining this place of worship, which in their language is called
A-Jia-touca, we desired to return ; but instead of conducting us to the water-side, as wo
expected, they struck into the road leading into the country. This road, which was about
sixteen feet broad, and as level as a bowling-green, seemed to be a very public one ; there
being many other roads from different parts, leading into it, all inclosed on each side, with

i: E 2

I i

\ • ' :i

' : 1 1

< -',!

\ I

1.!'

ii!

42t)

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE IIOUXI) THE U'OllLn.

Oct 177.1.

neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorching sun by fruit trees. I thought I
was i insported into the most fertile iilaina in Europe. Tiiero was not an incli of waste
ground ; the roads occupied no more space than was absolutely necessary ; the fences did not
take up above four inches each ; and even tiiis was not wholly lost, for in many were planted
some useful trees or i)liints. It was everywhere the same ; chancre of place altered not the
scene. Nature, assisted by a little art, nowhere apl)ear8 in more splendour than at this islo.
In these delightful walks, we met numbers of peojjle ; some travelling down to the ships with
their burdens of fruit ; others returning back empty. They all gave us the road by turning
either to the right or left, and sitting down, or standing, with their backs to the fences, till
wc had passed.

i',< a

1 1

.'>'■ ■•> ■"•X ' ' '

J lit-- V • 'I'l'^ii -' — - /

&t^ ->•""■-

If'

At several of the cross roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads, were generally
Ajiatoucas, such as already described ; with this diflference, the mounts were palisadoed
round, instead of a stone wall. At length, after walking several miles, we came to one
larger than common ; near to which was a large house belonging to an old chief in our
company. At this house we were desired to stop, which we accordingly did, and were
treated with fruit, &c.

AVe were no sooner seated in the house, than the eldest of the priests began a speech or
prayer, which was first directed to the A/iatouca, and then to me, and alternately. When
he addressed me, he paused at every sentence, till I gave a nod of approbation. I, however,
did not understand one single word he said. At times, the old gentleman seemed to be at
a loss what to say ; or perhaps his memory failed him ; for, every now and then, he was
);rompted by one of the otlier priests who sat by him. Both during this prayer and the
former one the people were silent, but not attentive. At this last place we made but a
short stay. Our guides conducted us down to our boat, and we returned with Attago to
our ship to dinner. We had no sooner got on board, than an old gentleman came alongside,
who, I understood from Attago, was some king or great man. He was, accordingly,
ushered on board ; when I presented him with such things as he most valued (being the only
method to make him my friend), .and seated him at table to dinner. We now saw that he

Oct 177n.

Ocr. 177'"}.

lOOKS SKCONI) VOVAC.E ROJ'ND THE WORLD,

421

[ thought I
h of waste
iccM did not
ure planted
rod not tlio
at tliia imIo.
L> ships with
by turning
) ftiuccs, till

re generally

palisadoed

lame to one

hicf in our

and were

a speech or
ly. When
I, however,
led to be at
en, he was
•er and the
nadc but a
Attago to
e alongside,
ccordingly,
ng the only
law that he

was a man of consoqnonce ; for Attngo would not wit down and cnt biTorc him, but got to
the other end of the table ; and, as tlie old cliief was almost i:!i>'..i, he xat tli to, and ate with
his back towards him. After the old man had eaten a bit of fnli and <lrui.k two gUiMxt's of
wine, he returned ashore. As soon ns Attngo hail seen liini out of the sfiij), he came and
took his place at talde, finished his dinner, and drunk two glasses of wine. When dinner
was over, wo all went ashore, where we found the old chief, who presented uie with a hog ;
and ho and some others took a walk with us into the country.

Before we set out, I happened to go down with Attago to the laniling-placo, and thero
found iMr. AVales in a Iaughai)Ie, though distussed, situation. The boats which brought ns
on shore, not being able to get near the huuUi,g-place for vant of a suUieieiit depth of water ;
he pulled off his shoes and stockings to walk 'Jirougli, and as soon as he got on dry land, ho
put them down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly .snatcheil away by
a person behind him, who immediately nii.\ed with the crowd. It was iin])ossibIe for hiui to
follow the man bare-footed over the sharp coral rocks, which compose the shore, witiiout
having his feet cut to ]>ieces. The boat was put back to the ship. Ids conijmnions had each
made his way through the crowd, and he left in this condition alone. Attago soon found
out the thief, recovered his shoes and stockings, and set him at liberty. Our route into tlio
country was by the first-mentioned Ajhttouca, before which we again seated ourselves, but
had no prayers, although the old priest was with ns. Our stay here was but short. The
old chief, i)robably thinking that we might want water on board, conducted us to a planta-
tion hard by, and showed us a pool of fresh water, though we had not made the least iufpiiry
after any. I believe this to be the same that Tasman calls the wmhinii-phici; for the king an<l
his nobles. From hence we were conducted down to tho shore of Maria bay, or N.E. side
of the isle ; where, in a boat-house, was shown to us a fine large double canoe not yet
launched. The old chief did not fail to make us sensible it belonged to himself. Night
now approaching, we took leave of him and returned on board, being conducted by Attago
down to tho water-side.

Mr. Forstcr and his party spent tho day in the country botanizing ; and several of tho
officers were out shooting. All of Ihcm were very civilly treated by the natives. We had
also a brisk trade for bananas, cocoa-nuts, yams, pigs, and fowls ; all of which were jirocured
for nails, and pieces of cloth. A boat from each ship was employed trading ashore, and
bringing off their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was generally in a short time.
By this method we got cheaper, and with less trouble, a good quantity of fruit, as well as
other refreshments, from people who had no canoes to carry them off to the ships.

Pretty early in the morning on tho 5th, my friend brought nc a hog and some fruit ; for
which I gave him a hatchet, a sheet and some red cloth. Tlo pinnace was sent ashore to
trade as usual : but soon returned. The officer informed me that the natives were for takinj;
everything out of the boat, and in other respects were very troublesome. The day before,
they stole the grappling at the time the boat was riding by it, and Ctarried it off undiscovered.
I now judged it necessary to have a guard on shore, to protect the boats and people whoso
business required their being there ; and accordingly scut the marines, under the command
of Lieutenant Eilgcumbc. Soon after, I went myself, with my friend Attago, Captaia
Furneaux, and several of the gentlemen. At landing, we found the old chief, who presented
me with a pig. After this. Captain Furneaux and I took a walk into the country with Jlr.
Hodges, to make drawings of such places and things as were most interesting. When this
was done, we returned on board to dinner, with my friend and two other chiefs ; one of whom
sent a hog on board the Adventure for Captain Furneaux, some hours before, without stipu-
lating for any return ; the only instance of this kind. — My friend took care to put me in
mind of the pig the old king gave me in the morning ; for which I now gave a checked shirt
and a piece of red cloth. I had tied them up for him to carry ashore ; but with this he was
not satisfied. He wanted to have them put on him ; which was no sooner done, than he
went on deck, and showed himself to all his countrymen. He had done the same thing in
the morning with the sheet I gave him. In the evening we all went on shore again, where
we found the old king, who took to himself everything my friend and the others had got.

The different trading parties were so successful to-day as to procure for both ships a

:!.

422

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUxVD THE WOP LI).

Oct. 1773.

it'«

tolerably good supply of rcfreslmients. In consequence of which, I, the next morning, gave
cvciy one leave to purchase what curiosities and other things they pleased. After this, it was
astonishing to sec with what eagerness every one caught at everything he saw. It even
went so far as to become the rid" ule of the natives, who offered jiieces of sticks and stones
to exchange. One waggish boy took a piece of hnnian excrement on the end of a stick, and
held it out to every one he met with. This day a man got into the master''s cabin, through
the outside scuttle, and took out some books and other things. He was discovered just as
lie was getting out into his canoe, and pursued by one of our boats, which obliged him to
quit tlie canoe and take to tlie water. The ])e()ple in the boat made several attempts to lay
hold on him ; but he as often dived under the lioat, and at la-t, having unshipjit J the rudder,
which rendered her ungovernable, by this means he got clear off. Some other very daring
thefts were committed at the landing-place. One fellow took a seaman's jacket out of the
boat, and carried it off, in spite of all that our people in her conld do. Till he was both
pursued and fired at by them, lie would not part with it ; nor would he have done it then,
had not his landing been intercepted by some of us, who were on shore. The rest of tlu
natives, who were very numerous, took very little notice of the whole transaction : nor were
they the least alarmed when the man was fired at.

My friend Attago having visited mo again next morning, as usual brought with him a
hog, and assisted me in jiurcliasing several more. Afterwards we went ashore; \isited
the old king, with whom we staid till noon ; then returned on board to diimer, with
Attago, who never once left me. Intending to sail the next morning, I made up a present
for the old king, and carried it on shore in the evening. As soon as I landed, I was told by
the officers who were on shore, that a far greater man than any we had yet seen was come
to ]>ay us a visit. Mr. I'ickersgill informed me that he had seen him in the country, and
found that ho was a man of some consequence, by the extraordinary respect paid him by tlie
people. Some, when they approached him, fell on tlieii faces, and put their heads between
their feet ; and no one durst pass him without permission. iMr. Piekersgill, and another of
the gentlemen, took hold of his arms, and conducted him down to the landing-place, where
I found him seated with so much sullen and sty.j.Iu gravity, that notwithstanding what had
been told me, I really took him for an idiot, whom the people, from some superstitious
notions, were ready to worship. I saluted and spoke to 1 im ; but he neither answered, nor
took the least notice of me ; nor did he alter a single feuiure in his countenance. This
confirmed me in my opinion, and I was just going to leave him, when one of the natives, an
intelligent youth, undertook to undeceive me; which lie did in such a manner as left me no
room to doubt that he was the king, or principal man on the island. Accordingly I made
him the present I intended for the old chief, which consisted of a jliirt, an ax, a piece of
red cloth, a looking-glass, some nails, medals, and beads, I fe received these things, orrath.er
suffered them to be put upon him, and laid down by him, without losing ". '/it of his gravity,
speaking on." word, or turning his head either to the right or left ; sitcing iiie whole tir.io
like a statue ; in which situation I left iiim, to return on board ; and he soon after retired.
I had ,ot been long on board before word was brought me that a (piantity of pro' "sionshad
come from this chief. A boat was sent to bring it from the shore ; and it consi-led of about
twenty baskets of roasted bananas, sour bread and yams, and a roasteci ])ig .f about twenty
pounds weight. ]Mr. Ivlgcumbe and his party were just reimbaiking, whci; these were
brought to the water-side, and the bearers said it was a present from t)io Aiwke, tl.nt is the
king of tiie island, to the Areckeoi the ship. After this I was no longer to doubt the dignity
of this sullen chief.

Early in the morning of the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, I went ashore with
Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forster, in order to make some '•eturn to the !■ iig for bis last
night's present. We no sooner landed ban we found Att-vgo, of whom we inquired for the
king, whose name w.as Kohagheetoo-Fallangon. Ife accordingly undertook to conduct us
to him ; but whether he mistook the man we warted, or was ignorant where he w i-, I
know not. Certain it is that he took us a wronr roiid, in which he had not gone far belore
he stopped ; and after some little conversation betw.^en him and another man, we n'turned
back, and presently after the king appeared with Viry few attendants. As soon as Attago

Oct. 1773.

ling, gave
ihis, it was
It even
md stones
stick, and
n, through
red just as
jfid him to
iipts to lay
tlie rudder,
fcry daring
; out of the
e was hoth
3ne it then,
I rest of thj
1 ; nor were

with him a
ire ; \isited
liViier, with
ip a present
was told hy
n was come
ountry, and
him hy the
ids hetween
i another of
ilace, where
ig what had
luperstitious
iswered, nor
ance. This
! niitivcs, an
s left uie no
igly I made
c, a piece of
gs, orratl'.er
his gravity,

whole tiiTiO
ifter retired,
o' '^''oiishad
ted of ahout
l)()ut twenty

thcHo were
', t'i.pt is the
L the dignity

ashi>ro with
for his last
iiired for the
c( induct us
i-e li(! w,i«, I
lie far before
we '•eturned
111 as Attago

■T|ST^

Oct. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGIi HOUND THE \roilLI).

iJ3

saw iiini coming, he sat down under a tree, and desired us to do the same. The king seated
himself on a rising ground, about twelve or fifteen yards from us : here we sat facing one
another for some minutes. I waited for Attago to show us th • \vay ; but seeing he did not
rise, Captain Furiieaux and I got uji, went and saluted the king, and sat down by him.
We then presented him with a white shirt (which wo put on his back), a few yards of red
cloth, '- Srass kettle, a saw, two large spikes, tliree looking-glasses, a dozen of medals, ami
some strings of heads. All this time he sat witii the same sullen stupid gravity as tlie day
before : he even did not seem to see or know what we were ahout ; his arms ajipeared
immoveable at his sides ; he did not so much as raise them when we put on the sliirt. [
told him, both by words and signs, that we were going to leave his island ; he scarcely made
the least answer to this, or any otlier tiling we either said or did. We, therefort, got up
and took leave; but I yet remained near him, to observe his actions. Soon after, lie entered
into conversation with Attaffo and an old woman, whom we took to be his mother. I did
not understand any part of the conversation ; it however made him laugli, in spite of his
assumed gravity. I say assumed, because it exceeded everything of the kind I ever saw ;
and therefore think it could not be his real disposition (unless he was an idiot indeed), as
these islanders, like all the :i*hers we had lately visited, have a gre;it deal of levity; and he
was in the jirime of life. At laui, he rose up, and retired v,-ith his mother ami two or three more.

Attafo conducted us to another circle, where were seated the aiied chief and several
respectable ohi jiersons of hoth sexes : among whom was the })riest, who was generally in
company with this chief. Wc observed that this reverend father could walk very well in a
morning ; but, in an evening, was obliged to be led home by two people. By this we
ccmcluded, that the juice of the pepper-root had the same effect uixm him, that wine and
other strong liquors have on Europeans who drink a large porti(jii of them. It is very
certain, that these old peojde seldom sat down without preparing a b(jwl of this liquor ;
which is done in the same manner as at Ulietea. We, however, must do them the justice to
believe, that it was meant to treat us : nevertheless, the greatest part, if not the whole,
generally fell to their share. I was not well prepared to take leave of this chief, having
exhausted almost all our store on the other. However, after rummaging our pockets, and
treasury bag, which was always carried with me wherever I went, we made up a tuierahlo
present, both for him and his friends. This old chief had an air of dignity about him that
commanded respect, wliicli the other had not. lie was grave, but not sullen : wo\ild eraek
a joke, talk on indifferent subjects, and endeavour to understand us and be understood him-
self. During this visit, the old priest repeated a short prayer or speech, the purport of which
we did not understand. Indeed he would frequently, at other times, break out in prayer;
but I never saw any attention paid to him hy any one present. After a stay of near two
hours, Ave took leave, ,xnd returned on board, witli Attago and two or three more friends, who
staid and breV'asted with us; after which they were dismissed, loaded with presents.

Attago was very importunate with me to return again to this isle, anJ to bring with mo
cloth, a.\es, nails, &c. Sec, Lelling me that I should have iiogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, in
abundance. He particularly desired me, more than once, to bring him such a suit of clothes
as 1 had on, '<ich was my uniform. This good-natured islander was very scrviceahle to
mo, on many occasions, during our sliort stay. He constantly came ou board every morning
soon after it wa* light, and never quitted us till the evening. He vvas always ready, either
on board or on shore, to do me all the service in his power: his lidelity was rewarded at a
small expense ; and I found my account in having sueli a friend.

In heaving in the coasting cable, it parted in tiie middle of its length, being (.hal't'd by the

rocks.

By thio

lent we lost the other half, together with the am iioi, which lay in forty

fathoms water, without any buoy to it. The best bower calde suffered also by the rocks ;
by which a judgment may be formed of this anchonige. At ten o'clock we got under sail ;
but as our decks were much encumbered with fruit, Ac. we kept l>lying under the land till
they were cleared. The sup])lies we got at this isle were ahout one hundred and fifty pi"S,
twice that number of fowls, as many bananas and coeoa-nuts as we could find room for, with
a few yams ; and had our stay been longer, we, no doubt, might have got a great deal more.
This, in somedegr-e, shows the fertility of the island, of which, together with the neighbour-
ing one of Middlebuiy, I shall nov gisc r. more particular account.

i ;■

! ■:!:

I m

.i|i!iy

I'-r

id'

424

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 1773.

S ,1 'i^

CHAPTER III. A DESCRIPTION OP THE ISLANDS AND THEIR PRODUCE, WITH THEIR Cl'LTT-

VATION, nOCSE.S, CANOES, NAVIGATION, MANUFACXrHES, WEAI' ">"S, CUSTOMS, GOVERN-
MENT, RELIGION, AND LANGUAGE OF THE INHABITANTS.

These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman, in January 1642-3; and, by bim,
called Amsterdam and Middlcbnrg. But tbe former is called by tbe natives Ton-ga-ta-bu,
and tbe latter Ea-oo-we. They are situated between tbe latitude of 21' 2!)' and 21" 3' south,
and between tbe longitude of 17-1" 40 and 175" 15' west, deduced from observations made
on tbe sj)ot.

IMiddleburg, or Eaoowe, wbicb is tbe southernmost, is about ten leagues in circuit, and of
a height sufficient to be seen twelve leagues. Tbe skirts of this isle arc mostly taken up in
the plantations ; the S.W. and N.W. sides especially. Tbe iniciior parts are but little
cultivated, though very fit for cultivation. However, the want of it added greatly to the
beauty of the isle ; for liere are, agreeably dispersed, groves of cocoa-nut and other trees,
lawns covered with thick grass, liere and there plantations, and paths leading to every part
of the island, in such beautiful disorder as greatly enlivens the prospect.

Tbe anchorage, which I named English Road, (being the first who anchored there,) is on
the N.W. side, in latitude 21° 20' 30" south. The bearing we took when at anchor, already
mentioned, together with tbe chart, will be more than sufficient to find this anchorage. The
bank is a coarse sand ; it extends two miles from the land, and on it there is from twenty to
forty fatlioms water. The small creek before it afibrds convenient landing for boats at all
times of the tide ; which here, as well as at the other islands, ri3es about four or five feet, and
is high water on the full and change days about seven o'clock. Tbe island of Tongatabu is
shaped something like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof are seven leagues each,
and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the direction of E.S.E. and W.N.W. is nearly all of
an equal height, rather low, not ex'"^ ding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the sea.
This island, and also that of Eaoowe, is guarded from the sea by a reef of coral rocks extend-
ing out from the shore one hundred fathoms more or less. On this reef the force of the sea
is spent before it reaches the land or shore. Indeed, this is, in some measure, the situation
of all the tropical isles in this sea that J have seen ; and thus nature has effi'ctually secured
them from the encroachments of the sea, though many of them are mere points when i mpared
to this vast ocean. Van Diemen's Road, where we anchored, is under the north-west part of
the island, between the most northern and western points. There lies a reef of rocks without
it, bearing N.W. by W., over which the sea breaks continually. The bank does not extend
more than three cables' length from the shore ; without that, is an unfathomable depth.
The loss of an anchor, and the damage our cables sustained, are sufficient proofs that the
bottom is none of the best.

On the east side of the north point of the island (as 31r. Gilbert, whom I sc^nt to survey
the parts, informed me) is a very snug harbour, of one mile or more in extrnt, wherein is
seven, eight, and ten fathoms water, with a clean sandy bottom. The chjAunel, by which
he went in and out, lies close to the point, and has only three fathoms water ; but he
believes that farther to the N.E. is a channel with a much greater depth, which he had not
time to examine. Indeed, it would have taken uj) far more time than I could spare to have
surveyed these parts minutely ; as there lie a number of small islets and reefs of rocks along
the N.E. side of the island, which seemed to extend to the N.E. farther than the eye could
reach. The island of Amsterdam or Tongatabu is wholly laid out in plantations, in which
are planted some of the richest productions of nature ; such as bread-fruit, cocoa-nut-trees,
plantains, bananas, shaddock-, yams, and some other roots, sugar-cane, and a fruit like
a nectarine, called by them Fiff/ima, and at Otaheite Ahu>/a: in short, here are most of tbe
articles wbicb the Society Islands produce, besides some which they have not, Mr. Forster
tells me, that he not only found the same plants hero that are at Otaheite, and the neigh-
bouring isles, but several others which are not to be met with there. And I probably have

Oct. 1773.

:IR Cl'LTT-
, GOVERX-

(1, by him,
-ga-ta-bu,
[" 3' south,
ions made

uit, and of
iken up in
hut little
atly to the
>ther trees,
every part

lere.) is on
or, already
■age. The
1 twenty to
soats at all
i^e feet, and
»n2!vtabu is
igues each,
early all of
of the sea.
;k8 extend-

of the sea
c situation

V secured
m pared
rest part of
ks without
not extend

jle dei)th.

's that the

to survey
wlierein is
hy which
• ; but he
10 had not
ire to have
ocks along
eye could
in which
-nut-trees,
fruit like
lost of the
Ir. Forster
the neigh-
)nh\y have

Oct. 1773.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

425

added to their stock of vegetables, by leaving with them an assortment of garden seeds,
pulse, &c. Bread-fruit here, as well as at all the other isles, was not in season ; nor was
this the time for roots and shaddocks. We got the latter only at IVIiddleburg.

The produce and cultivation of this isle is the same us at Amsterdam ; with this difference,
that a part only of the former is cultivated, whereas the whole of the latter is. The lanes, or
roads necessary for travelling, are laid out in so judi'.-ious a manner as to open a free and
easy communication from one part of the island to the other. Here are no towns or villages,
most of the houses are built in the plantations, with no other order than what conveniency
requires; they are neatly constructed ; but do not exceed those in the other isles. The
materials of which they are built are the same ; and some little variation in the disposition
of the framing is all the diflference in their construction. Tlu; floor h a little raised, and
covered with thick strone: tnats : the same sort of matting serves to inclose them on the
windward side, the other being open. Tliey have little areas before the most of thouj,
which are generally planted round with trees, or shrubs of ornament, whose fragraney per-
fumes the very air in which they breathe. Their household furniture consists of a few
wooden platters, cocoa-nut shells, and some neat wooden pillows shaped like four-footed
stools or forms. Tiicir common clothing, with the addition of a ni.at, serves them for bedding.
"We got from them two or three earthen vessels, which were all we saw among them. One
was in the sliapc of a homb-shcU, with two holes in it oj>posite to each other ; the otliers
were like pipkins, containing about five or six pints, and had been in use on the fire. I am
of opinion they are the manufacture of some other isle; for, if they were of their own, wo
ought to have seen more of them. Nor am I to suppose they came from Tasman's ships;
the time is too long for brittle vessels like tliese to be jireserved.

We saw no otlier domestic animals amongst tliem but hogs and fowls. The former are of
the same sort as at the other isles in this sea ; but the latter are far siiperioi-, l.H'ing ns large
as any we have in Euroi)e, and their flesh equally good, if not better. Wc saw no dogs,
and l)eiieve they have none, as they were exceedingly desirous of those wo had on board.
My friend Attago was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one from New Zealand,
the other from Ulietea. The name of a dog with them is koorre ov (loorec, the same as at
New Zealand, which shows that they are not wholly strangers to them. We saw no rats
in these isles, nor any other wild quadrupeds, exce]>t small li/ards. The lanil birds nro
jiigeons. turtle-doves, parrots, parroqucts, owl.«, bald coots with a blue plumage, a variety
of small birds, and large bats in abundance. The produce of the sea we know hut little of;
it is reasonable to suppose that the snme sorts of fish are found here as nt the other isles.
Their fishing instruments are the same ; that is, hooks made of mother-of-pearl, gigs with
two, three, or more prongs, and nets made of a very fine thread, with the meshes wrought
exactlv like ours. But uothinfr can b" a more demonstrative evidence of their ingemsitv
than the eonstrviction and make of th 'ir canoes, wliieh, in point of i;>.^)tn(>ss and workman-
ship, exceed everything of this kind we saw in this sea. They are built of several jiieces
sewed together with bandage, in so i eat a manner, that on the outside it is difficult to Fee
the joints. x\il the fastenings arc oii tlie inside, and pass through kants or ridges, wliich
are wrought on the edges and ends of the several boards which compose the vessel, for that
purpose. They are (>f two kinds, viz., double and single. The single ones are from twenty
to thirty feet long, unci .ihout twenty or twenty-two inches broad in tlu^ middle; the stern
terminates in a point, and the head something like the point of a wedge. At eaeli end
is a kind of deck, for about one-third part of the whole length, and open in the middle. In
some the middle of the deck is decorated wUii a row of white shells, j'tuek on little )>egs
wrought out of the same piece wliich composes it. These single canoes liave all out-riggers,
and are sometimes navigated with sails, but more generally with paddles, the blades of
which are chort, and broadest in the rnidiUe. The two vessels which compose the dou!>le
canoe arc each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the middle ; .ind
each end terminates nearlj' in a point ; so that tlie body or hull diflers a little in constvuctiou
from the single canoe ; but is put together exactly in the same manner ; these having
a rising in the middle round the ojsen part, in the form of a long trough, which is mavic of
boards, closely fitted tofrether, and well secured to the body of the vessel. Tno such vessels

111!

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\r\m\

426

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 177.1.

;;

*(s'

1: IB

ilif i ' '.

life :,i."

Mm ^

r Iff H

are fastened to and parallel to each other, about six or seven feet asunder, by strong cross
beams, secured by bandages to the upper part of the risings above-mentioned. Over these
beams and others, vvhicli are supported by stanchions fixed on the bodies of tlie canoes, is
laid a boarded platform. All the parts which compose tlie double canoe, are made as strong
and light as the nature of the \v irk will admit, and may be immerged in water to the very
platform, without being in danger of filling. Nor is it possible, under any circumstance
whatever, for them to sink, so long as they hold together. Thus tiiey are not only made
vessels of burden, but fit for distant navigation. They arc rigged with one mast, which
steps upon the jdatform, and can easily be raised or taken down ; and are sailed with
a latteen-sail, or triangular one, extended by a long yard, which is a little bent or crooked.
The sail is made of mats ; the rope they make use of is laid exactly like onrs, and some of
it is four or five inch. On tiic platform is built a little .shed or hut, which screens the crew
from the sun and weather, and serves for other purposes. Thoy also carry a moveable fire-
heartii, which is a square, but shallow, trough of wood, filled with stones. The way into
the hold of the canoe is from oft' the platform, down a sort of uncovered hatchway, in which
they stand to bail out the water, 1 tiiink those vessels are navigated either end foremost,
and that, in changing tacks, thoy havo only occasion to shift or jib round the sail ; but of
this I was not certain, as I had not then seen any under sail, or with the mast and sail an
end, but what were a considerable distance from us.

Their working-tools are made of stone, bone, sliells, &c., as at the other islands. When
we view the work whicli is performed with tliesc tools, we arc struck with admiration at
the ingenuity and patience of the workman. Their knowk'dge of the utility of iron was no
more than sufticiont to teach thenl to prefer nails to beads, and snch trifles ; some, but very
few, would exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, and
even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge-tool we could give them ; consequently
tliey got but few axes from us but what were given as presents. But if we include the
nails which were given by the officers and crews of both ships for curiosities, fcv. with those
given for refreshments, tliey cannot have got less than five hundred weight, great and sjnall.
The only piece of iron we saw among tiieni was a small broad-awl, which had been made of
a nail.

Both rnen and women arc of a common size with Europeans; and tlieir colour is that of
a liglitish cojiper, and more uniforntly so than amongst the inhabitants of Otaheite and the
Society Isles. Some of our gentlemen were of opinion these were a nmch handsomer race ;
others maintained a contrary ojiinion, of which number I was one. Be this as it may, they
have a good siiape, and regular features, and are active, brisk, and lively. The women, in
particular, are the mei'riest creatures I ever met with, and will keep chattering by one's
side, without the least invitatiini, or considering whether tluy are understood, provided one
does but seem pleased with them. h\ general they appeared to be modest; although there
was no want of those of a different stamp ; anil as we had yet some venereal complaints on
board, I took all possible care to prevent the disorder being communicated to them. Upon
most occasions they .showed a strong propensity to pilfering ; in which they were full as
expert as the Otaheiteans.

Their hair in general is black, but more especially that of the wonjen. Different colours
were ft)und among the men, sometimes on the same head, caused b)' soniething they put
upon it, which stains it white, red, and blue. Both sexes wear it short ; I saw but two
exceptions to this custom, and the most of them combed it upwards, IMany of the boys had
it cut very dose, except a single lock on the top of the head, and a small quantity on each
side. The men cut or shave their beards quite close, which operation is performed with tw.)
shells. They have fine eyes, .and in general good teeth, even to an advanced age. '"^'le
custom of fnttotrhh/ or j)uneturing tin; skin prevails. The men are kittoiced fr.Jin tuc
midille of the tliigh to above the hips. The women have it only on their arms and Jngers;
and there but very slightly.

Tlw> dress of both sexes consists of a piece of cloth, or mattiiig, wrapped round the waist
ami hanging djwn below the knees,. From the waist, upw.ards, they are generally naked;
and it seemed to be a custom to anoint these parts every morning. My friend Attago never

Oct. 177:3.

strong cross
Over these
10 canoes, is
;le as strong
to the very
ircunistance
b only made
nast, wliich
sailed with
or crooked,
ind some of
ns the crew
)veable fi re-
lic way into
iv, in which
id foremost,
sail ; but of
and sail an

ids. When
[miration at
iron was no
lie, but very
, elotli, and
lonsequently
) inehule the
'. wiih those
it and small,
icen made of

ur is that of
icite and the
somer race ;
may, they
women, in
ng by one's
)rovided one
oii<ih there
)inp]aints on
lein. Upon
were full as

;rent colours
ig they put
aw but two
Jie boys had
tity on each
;d with tw.)
affe. le
(I {: ,iii\ me
and .iiigers;

id the waist
ally naked ;
.ttago never

Oct. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAtiE ROUND THE WOULD.

427

failed to do it ; but whether out of respect to his friend, or from custom, I will not pretend
to say ; though I rather think from the latter, as he was not singular in the practice.

Their ornaments are, amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones, shells, and beads of mother-
of-pearl, tortoise-shell, &c., which are worn by both sexes. Tiie women also wear on their
fingers neat rings made of tortoise-shell, and j>ieces in their ears about the size of a small
quill ; l)ut ear-ornaments are not commonly worn, though all have their ears pierced. They
liave also a curious apnm made of the outside fibres of the cocoa-nut shell, and composed of
a number of sm.all pieces sewed together in such a manner as to form stars, half-moons, little
squares, &c. It is studded with beads of shells, ainl covered with red feathers, so as to have
a pleasing effect. They make the same kind of cloth, and of the same materials, as at
Otaheite ; though they have not such a variety, nor do they make any so fine ; but as they
have a metliod of glazing it, it is more durable, and will resist rain for some time, which
Otaheite cloth will not. Tiieir colours arc black, brown, purple, yellow, and red ; all made
from vegetables. They make various sorts of matting; some of a very fine texture, which
is generally used for clothing ; and the thick and stronger sort serves to sleep on, and to
make sails for their cano(>s, &c. Among other useful utensils, they have various sorts of
baskets ; some made of the same materials as their mats ; and others of tlic twisted fibres of
cocoa-nuts. These are not only durable, but beautiful ; being generally comj)osed of different
colours, and studded with beads made of shells or bones. They have many little nick-nacks
amongst them ; which shows that they neither want taste to design nor skill to execute
whatever they take in hand.

How these people amuse themselves in their leisure hours I cannot say, as we are but
little acquainted with their diversions. The women frequently entertained us with songs, in
a mauiier which was agreeable enough. They accompany the music by snapping their
fingers, so as to keep time to it. Not only their voices but tlieir music was very liarmo-
niuits , and they have a considerable compass in their notes. I saw but two musical instru-
ments amongst them. One was a large Huto made of a piece of bamboo, w hich they fill with
their noses as at Otaheite ; but these have four holes or stops, whereas those of C)taheite
have only two. The other was comjiosed of ten or eleven small retds of unequal lengths,
bound together side by side, as the Doric pipe of the ancients is said lo have been ; and th""
open ends of the reeds into which they blow with their mouths are of equal height, or in a
line. They have also a drum, wliich, without any impropriety, may he compared to a
hollow log of wood. The one I saw was five feet six inches long, and thirty inches in girth,
and had a slit in it, from the one end to the other, about three inches wide, by means of
which it had been ludlowed out. They heat on the side of this log with two drumsticks,
and produce a hollow sound, not quite so musical as that of an enq)ty cask.

The common method of saluting one anr-ther is by touching or meeting noses, as is done
in New Zealand ; and their sign of peace to strangers is the displaying a white flag or flails ;
at least such were displayed to us, when we first drew near the shore. But the peojiie who
came first on board bnniglit with them some of the pepper-plant, and sent it before them into
the shi]> ; a stronger sign of friendship than which one cculd not wish for. From their
nnsiisi)ieious manner of coming on board, and of receiving us at first on shore, I am of
opinion that they are seldom disturbed by either f< reign or domesti*: troubles. They are,
however, not unprovided with very furmidable W(aj)ons ; su'di as clubs and sj)ears. made of
liiu'd wood, iilso Ijows .7nd arrows. The >.luhs an froni three to five feet in length, and of
various shapes ; their bows and arrows are but indiff -rent : the former lieing very slight, and
Ihe latter only made of a slender n <d pointed with hard wood. Son,^ of their s])ears have
many bfiiliM, and must be very diingrrctus weapons wIkm- they take elK-ii. On the inside of
the bow is (| g/'(/(iVo in which is put the arrow; from which it should seem that they
use luit oMi',

Tin y have a singular custom of putting everything you give them to their heads, by way
of thanks, as we conjectured. This manner of paying a eoniplinient is taught them from
till ir very irifiincy j for when we gave things to little children, tlie mother lifted up the
child s hand Id its lieail. They also used this custom in their exchanges with ns : whatever
We gnve tiieni for tlieir goods was always applied to the head, just as if it had been given

(

!
1

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^l■

•'

}Ja

II I

1; '.' I
ii'

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i' >i

I Ii

■lit I r

•\y

428

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND HE WORLD.

Oct. 1771.

!(()

them for nothing. Sometimes they would look at our goods, and, if not approved, return
them back ; but whenever they applied them to the head, the bargain was infallibly struck.
When I had made a present to the chief of anytliing curious, I frequently saw it handed
from (me to another : and every one, into whose hands it came, put it to the head. Very
often the women would take hold of my hand, kiss it, and lift it to their heads. From all
this it should seem, that this custom, which they call fagafat'ie, has various significations
according as it is applied ; all however complimentary. It must be observed, that the
sullen chief or king did not pay me any of these compliments for the presents I made him.

A still more singular custom prevails in these isles : we observed tliat the greater part of
the people, both men and women, had lost one or both their little fingers.* We endeavoured,
but in vain, to find out the reason of this mutilation ; for no one would take any pains to
inform us. It was neither peculiar to rank, age, or sex ; nor is it done at any certain age,
as I saw those of all ages on whom the amputation had been just made ; and, except some
young children, we found few who had both hands perfect. As it was more common among
the .aged than the young, some of us were of opinion that it was occasioned by the death of
their p.T,rents, or some other near relation. But Mr. Wales one day met with a man, whose
hands were botli perfect, of such an advanced age, that it was hardly possible his parents
could be living. They also burn or make incisions in their cheeks, near the cheek-bone.
The reason of tiiis was equally unknown to us. In some, the wounds were quite fresh ; in
others, they could only be known by the scars, or colour of the skin. I saw neither sick nor
lame amongst them : all appeared hcaltliy, strong, and vigorous ; a proof of tl.v. goodness of
the clinLite in which they live.

I have frequently mentioned a king, which implies the government being in a single person,
without knowing for certain whether it is so or not. Such a one was, however, pointtd
out to us ; and we had no reason to doubt it. From this, and other circumstances, I am of
opinion that the government is much like that of Otaheite ; that is, in a king or great chief,
who is here called Areekc, with other chiefs under him, who .are lords of certain districts,
and perhaps sole proprietors, to whom the people seem to pay great obedience. I also
observed a third rank, who had not a little aiuhority over the common people : my friend
Attago was one of these. I am of opinion that all the land on Tongatahu is private property,
and that there are here, as at Otaheite, a set of people, who are servants or slaves, and have
no property in land. It is unreasonable to suppose everything in common in a country so
liighly cultivated as this. Interest being the greatest spring which animates the hand of
industry, few would toil in cultivating and planving the land, if they did not expect to reap
the fruit of their labour : were it otherwise, the industrious man would be in a 'vorse state
than the idle sluggard. I frequently saw parties of six, eight, or ten people, bring down to
the landing-plane fruit and other things to dispose of, where one person, a m.an or woman,
superintended the sale of the whole ; no exchanges were made but with his or her consent ;
and, whatever we gave in exchange, was always given them, which, I think, plainly showed
them to be the owners of the goods, and the others no more than servants. Though benevo-
lent nature has been very bountiful to these isles, it cannot be said that the inhabitants are
wholly exempt from the curse of our forefathers: part of their bread must be earned with
the sweat of their brows. Tlie high state of cultivation their lands are in must have cost
them immense labour. This is now .amply rewarded by the great produce, of which every
one seems to partake. No one wants the common necessaries of life ; joy and contentment
are painted in every face. Indeed, it can hardly be otherwise : an easy freedom prevails
among all ranks of people : they feel no wants which they do not enjoy the means of grati-
fying ; and they live in a clime where tlie painful extremes of heat and cold are equally
unknown. If nature has been wanting in anything, it is in the article of fresh water, which,
as it is shut uj) in the bowels of the eartli, they are obliged to dig for. A running stream
was nut seen, and but one well, at Amsterdam. At JMiddleburg, we saw no water but wiiat
the natives had in vessels ; but as it was sweet and cool, I had no doubt of its being taken
up uj)on the island, and, probably, not far from the spot where I saw it.

* This custom is not pcnilinr to tlic inliabilants of the Friendly
Aiiiericains, tome. ii. |>. 'J.'i.'), \r.

Isles. Sec Rcclierclies Pliilosniihiqiics siir lia

%.' !■

Oct. 1773.

^cd, return
bly struck,
it handed
ad. Very
From all
Tnificationg
I, that the
ladc him.
iter part of
deavoured,
iiy pains to
certain age,
xcept some
mon among
lie death of
nan, whose
liis parents
jhcek-bone.
,e fresh ; in
lier sick nor
ffoodness of

iigle person,

!er, pointtd

:es, I am of

great chief,

lin districts,

ice. I also

: my friend

te property,

s, and have

i country so

the hand of

icct to reap

vorsc state

uff down to

or woman,

er consent ;

inly showed

"li henevo-

ibitants are

arned with

t have cost

Inch every

ontentment

om prevails

[IS of grati-

are equally

iter, which,

ling stream

r but what

leing taken

Iiiiincs siir Us

Oct. 1773.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

So littlo do we know of their religion, that I hardly dare mention it. The buildings called
Ajiatoucas, before mentioned, are undoubtedly set apart for this purpose. Scmie of our
gentlemen wert of oi)inion, that they were merely burying-piaces. I can only say, from my
own knowledge, tiiat they are ])lacea to whieli jiarticular jjersuiis directed set speeches, which
I uiuhirstood to be prayers, as hath been already related. Joining my opinion with tiiat of
others, I was inclined to think that they are set ai)art to be both temi)lesand buryiiig-placcs,
as at Otalieite, or even in Europe. But 1 have no idea of the images being idols ; not only
from what I saw myself, but from I\Ir. Wales's informing me tliat they set one of them up,
for liim and others to siioot at. One circumstance sliowed that these Ajiatoucas were
frequently resorted to, for one puri)ose or other ; the areas, or open places, before them,
l)eing covered with a green sod, the grass on which was very short. This did not appear
to have been cut, or reduced by the hand of man, but to have been prevented in its
growth by being often trod, or sat upon.

It cannot be supposed that we could know much, either of their civil or religious policy,
in so short a time as four or five days, especially as we understood but little of their language :
even the two islanders we had on board could not at first understand tiiem ; and yet as we
became the more acquainted witii them, we found their language was nearly the same spoken
at Otalieite and the Society Isles ; the difference not being greater tiian what we find
betwixt the most northern and western parts of England, as will more fully appear by
the vocabulary.

CHAPTER IV. PASSAGE FROM AMSTERDAJI TO QUEEN CHARLOTTES SOUND, WITH AN

ACCOUNT OF AN INTERVIEW WITII THE INHABITANTS, AND THE FINAL SEPARATION OF
THE TWO SHIPS.

About the time we were in a condition to make sail, a canoe, conducted by four men,
came alongside, with one of those drums already mentioned, on which one man kept con-
tinually beating ; thinking, no doubt, the music would charm us. I gave them a piece of
cloth, and a nail, for the drum, and took the ojjportunity to send to my friend Attago some
wheat, peas, and beans, which I had forgot to give him when he had the other seeds. As
soon as this canoe was gone, we made sail to the southward, having a gentle gale at S.E. by
E., it being my intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand,
there to take in wood and water, and then to go on further discoveries to the south and east.

In the afternoon on the 8th, we made the island of Pilstart, bearing S.W. by W. ^ W.,
distant seven or eight leagues. This island, which was also discovered by Tasman, is
situated in the latitude of 22" 2(5' south, longitude 175° 59' west, and lies in the direction of
S. 52° west, distant thirty -two leagues from the south end of Middleburg. It is more con-
spicuous in height than ciicuit ; having in it two considerable hills, seemingly disjoined
from each other by a low valley. After a few hours' calm, the wind came to S.W., with
which wo stretched to the S.E., but on the lOtli, it veered round by the south to the S.E.
and E.S.E., and then we resumed our course to the S.S.W.

At five o'clock in the morning of the 21gt we made the land of New Zealand, extending
from N. W. by N. to W.S.W. At noon. Table Cape bore west, distant eight or ten leagues.
I was very desirous of having some intercourse with the natives of this country as far to the
north as possible ; that is, about Poverty or Tolaga Bays, where I apprehended they were
more civilized than at Queen Cliarlotte's Sound ; in order to give them some hogs, fowls,
seeds, roots, &e., which I had provided for the purpose. The wind veering to the N.W.
and nortli, enabled us to fetch in with the land a little to the north of Portland, and wo
stood as near the shore as we could with safety. We observed several people upon it, but
none attempted to come off to us. Seeing this, we bore away under Portland, where we
lay-to some time, as well to give time for the natives to come oft" as to wait for the Adventure.
There were several people on Portland, but none seemed inclined to come to us ; indeed the
wind at this time blew rather too fresh for them to make the attempt. Therefore, as soon
as the Adventure was up with us, wo mnde sail fm- (.'ape Kidnappers, which we passed at
five o'clock in the morning, and continued our course alongshore, till nine, when, being about

i .n

' ■ ^ I

li '!■

ill

!' >

:;iJ!

i!i'

; 1

I .
f ■ I

4.10

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. irr.'i.

' if^

three leagues short of Black Head, wb saw some canoes put off from the shore. Upon tliis
I hrouglit tn, in order to give them time to come on board ; but ordered the Adventure, by
signal, to stand on, as I was willing to lose as little time as possible.

Those in the first canoe which came alongside were fishers, and exchanged some fish for
pieces of cloth and nails. In the next were two men, whom, by their dress and behaviour,
I took to be chiefs. These two were easily prevailed on to come on board, when they were
presented with nails, and other articles. They were so fond of nails, as to seize on all they
could find, and with such eagerness, as plainly showed they were tiie most valuable things
wo could give them. To the j)rincipal of these two men I gave the pigs, fowls, seeds, and
roots. I believe, at first, he did not think I meant to give tiieni to him ; for he took but
little notice of them, till ho was satisfied they were for himself. Nor was he then in SJich
a rapture as when I gave him a spike-nail half the length of his arm. However, at his
going away, I took notice that he very well remembered how many pigs and fowls had been
given him, as he took care to have them all collected together, and kept a watchful eye
over them, lest any should be taken away, lie made me a ])romise not to kill any ; and if
he keeps his word, and proper care is taken of them, there were enough to stock the whole
island in due time, being two boars, two sows, four hens, and two cocks. The seeds were such
as are most useful, viz., wheat, French and kidney beans, peas, cabbage, turnips, onions,
carrots, parsnips, and yams, &c. With these articles tliey were dismissed. It was evident
these people liad not forgot the Endeavour being on tiieir coast ; for the first words they
spoke to us were, Makioii no tc pow poiP (We are afraid of the guns). As they could be
no strangers to the affair which happened off Cape Kidnajjper in my former voyage,
experience had taught tlicm to haye some regard to these instruments of death.

As soon as they were gone we stretched off to the southward, the wind having now
veered to the W.S.W. Jn the afternoon it increased to a fresh gale, and blew in squalls;
in one of which we lost our fore-top-gallant mast, having carried the sail a little too Ion?'.
The fear of losing the land induced me to carry as much sail as ]>()ssible. At seven in the
morning we tacked, and stretched in-shore ; Cape Turnagain, at this time, bore about N.W.
^ N., distant six or st^ven leagues. The Adventure, being a good way to leeward, we
suppose did not observe the signal, but stood on, consequently was separated from us.
During the night (which was spent in pl3'ing) the wind increased in such a manner as to
bring us under our courses; it also veered to S. W. and S.S.W., and was attended with
raim.

At nine in the morning on the 23d, the sky began to clear up, and the gale to abate, so
that we could carry close -reefed top-sails. At eleven o'clock we were close in with Cape
Turnagain, when we tacked and stood off; at noon the said Cape bore west a little nortiierly,
distant six or seven miles. Latitude observed 41° 30' south. Soon after, the wind fallinn-
almost to a calm, and flattering ourselves that it would be succeeded by one more favourable,
we got up another topgallant mast, rigged topgallant yards, and loosed all the reefs out
of the top-saih^ Tiie event was not equal to our wishes. The wind, indeed, came some-
thing more favourable — that is, at W. by N., with which wc stretciied alongshore to the
southward ; but it soon increased in such a manner as to undo what we had but just done,
and at last strijiped us to our courses, and two close-reefed top-sails, under which sails we
continued all nigiit. About daylight the next morning, the gale al^".t:iig, we were again
tempted to loose out the reefs, and rig topg.allant yards, which proved all lost labour ; for,
by nine o'clock we were reduced to the same sail as before. Soon after the Adventure joined
us; and at noon Cape Palliser bore west, distant eiglit or nine leagues. This cape is the
southern point of Eahei-noniauwe. We continued to stretcli to the southward till midniglit,
when the wind abated and shifted to S.E. Three hours after it fell calm, during which we
loosed the reefs out, '<i\\ the vain hopes that the next wind which came would be favourable.
We were mistaken ; wind only took this short repose, in order to gain strength, and

fall the heavier upon u For at five o'clock in the morning, being the 2.5111, a gale sprung
up at N.W., with which we stretched to S.W. Cape Palliser, at this time, bore N.N.W,,
distant eight or nine leagues. The wind increased in such a manner, as obliged us to take
in one reef after another ; and at last it came on with such fury as made it necessary to

rywi

Oct. 17"!^.

Upon this
veiituro, by

)iiie fisli for

beliivviour,
1 they wore

on all thi'V
iiiblc things
I, seeds, and
lie took but
then in snch
kcver, at his
^Is had been
.vatchful eye
any ; and if
ik the wholo
ds were such
nips, onions,

was evident
t words they
hey could be
mer voyage,

having now
J in squalls ;
tie too lon^.
1, seven in the

about N.W.

leeward, wo
ted from ns.

manner as to

ttended with

|o to abate, so
in with Cape
[tie northerly,

wind falling

e favourable,
the reefs out

camo sonie-
tshore to the
[ut just done,
I'hich sails wo
were again

labour ; for,
lenturo joined
lis cape is the
[till midnight,
Ing which we
1)0 favourable.

ptrength, and
gale sprung

lore N.N.W.,
led us to take
necessary to

Oct. 177«.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

4.^1

take in all our sails with the utmost expedition, and to lie-to under bare polos. The sea
rose in proportion witli the wind ; so tliat wc h.ad a terrible gale and a mountainoiis sea to
encounter. Thus, after beating up against a hard gale for two da)'s, and arriving just in
sight of our port, we liad tiic mortification to bo driven ott' from the land by a furious
storm. Two favourable circumstances attended it, which gave us sonn; consolation j it was
fair overhead, and wc were not apprehonsivo of a leo-shore.

Tlio storm continued all the day witiiout the least intermission. In the evening we bore
down to look for tlic Adventure, she being out of sight to leeward, and after running the
distance we supposed her to be ott", brought-to again without seeing ; it being so very hazy
and thick in the horizon that we coulil not see a mile round us, occasioned by the spray of
the sea being lifted up to a groat hoiglit by tlie force of the wind. At midnight the gale
abated ; soon after foil little wind ; and at last shifted to S.W., when wo wore, set
the courses and top-sails close-reefed, and stood in for the land. Soon after the wind
freshened and fixed at south ; but as the Advoiituro was some distance astern, we lay by
for her till eiyht o'clock, when wc both made all sail, and steered N. bv W. ', W. for the
Strait. At noon observed in 42" 27 south, Ca])0 Palliser, by judgment, bore north, distant
seventeen leagues. This favourable wind was not of sufficient duration ; in the afternoon
it fell, by little and little, and at length to a calm ; this at ten o'clock was succecdod by a
fresh breeze from the north, with which we stretched to the westward.

At three o'clock next morning wc were pretty well in with Cape Campbell on the west
side of the strait, when we tacked, and stretclied over for Cape Palliser, under courses and
close-reefed topsails, having the wind at N.W. a very strong gale, and fair weather. At
noon, we taoked and strotchod to the S.W., with the last-mentionod cape bearing west,
distant four or live loaguos. In the afternoon tlic galo increased in such a manner, as brought
us under our courses. Wc continued to stretch to the S.W. till midnight, when we wore,
and set close-reefed topsails. On the 28tli, at eight o'clock in the morning, we wore, and
stood ajjain to the S.W. till noon, when wc wore' obli^fod to lie-to under the fore-sail. At
this time tiie high land over Cape Campbell bore west, distant ten or twelve loaguos. The
Adventure four or five miles to leeward. In the afternoon the fury of the gale began to
abate ; when we sot the main-sail, close-reefod main-top-sail, and stood to the northward
with the wind at W.N.W. and W. by N., a strong g.ilc attended with heavy squalls.

In the morning of the 29th, the wind abated and shifted to S.W. a gentle gale. Of this
we took immediate advantage, set all our sails, and stood for Cape Palliser, which at noon
bore W. by N. i N., distant about six leagues. The wind continued between the S.W.
and south till five in the evening, when it foil calm. At this time we were about three
leagues from the Cape. At seven o'clock the calm was succecdod by a gentle breeze from
N.X.E. as fair as we could wish ; so that we began to reckon what time wc should reach
the Sound the next day; but at nine the wind shifted to its old quarter N.W., and blew a
fresh giilo, with which we strotchod to the S.W. under single-roofed tojj-sails and courses,
with the Adventure in company. She was scon until midnight, at whicii time she was two
or three miles astern, and presently after she disappeared ; nor was she to be seen at day-
light. We supposed she had tacked and stood to the N.E., by whicli manoeuvre we lost
sight of her.

Wc continued to stretch to the westward with the wind at N.N.W., which increased in
such a manner as to bring ns under our two courses, after splitting a new main-top-sail. At
noon, Cape Campbell bore W. by N., distant seven or eight Icngues. At three in the
afternoon, the gale began to abate, ivnd to veer more to the north, so that we fetched in with
the land under the Snowy Mountains, about four or five leagues to windward of the Lookers-
on, where there was the aj)pearance of a large bay. I now regretted the loss of the
Adventure ; for had she been with me, I should have given up all thoughts of going to
Queen Charlotte's Sound to wood and water, and have sought for a ])lace to get those
articles farther south, as the wind was now favourable for ranging along the coast. But our
Reparation made it necessary for me to repair to the Sound, that being the place of
rendezvous.

reached the land wc saw smoke in several places along the shore ; a si

apprc

ign

•*il^

'ft

'I. ■' >•!•

482

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Nov. 1773.

m n.

, (

^i a

tliat the coast was inhabited. Our soundings wcro from forty-sovcn to twenty-five fatlioms ;
that IS, at the distance of three miles from the sliore, forty-neven fathoms; and twenty-five
fathoms at the distance of one mile, where we tacked, and stood to tiie eastward, under tlie
two courses and close-reefed to|)-saiIs ; hut tlie latter we could not carry long before we
were obliged to hand them. We continued to stand to the eastward all night, in hopes of
meeting with the Adventure in the morning. Seeing nothing of her then, wo wore and
brought-to, under the fore-sail and mizen-stay-sail, the wind having increased to a perfect
storm ; but we had not been long in this situation before it abated, so as to permit us to
carry the two courses, under which we stood to the west ; and at noon the Snowy jMountaius
bore W.N.W., distant twelve or fourteen leagues. At six o'clock in the evening the wind
quite ceased ; but tliis proved only a momentary repose ; for presently after, it began to blow
■with redoubled fury, and obliged us to lie-to under the mizen-stay-sail ; in which situation
we continued till midnight, when the storm lessened ; and two hours after it fell calm.

On tho 1st of November, at four o'clock in the morning, the calm was succeeded by
a breeze from the south. This soon after increased to a fresh gale, attended with hazy
rainy weather, which gave us hopes that the N.W. winds were done ; for it must be
observed, that they were attended with clear and fair weather. We were not wanting in
taking immediate advantage of this favourable wind, by setting all our sails, and steering
for Cape Campbell, which at noon bore north, distant three or four leagues. At two o''clock
we passed the Cape, and entered the Strait with a brisk gale a-storn, and so likely to
continue that we thought of nothing less than reaching our port the next morning. Once
more we were to be deceived : at six o'clock, being ofl' Cloudy Bay, our favourable wind
was succeeded by one from the' north, which soon after veered to N.W., and increased to
a fresh gale. We spent the night plying ; our tacks proved disadvantageous ; and we lost
more on tho ebb than we gained on the flood. Next morning, we stretched over for tho
shore of Eahei-nomauwe. At sunrise the horizon being extraordinarily clear to leeward, we
looked well out for the Adventure ; but as we saw nothing of her, judged she had got into
the Sound. As we approached the above-mentioned shore, we discovered on the east side
of Cape Teerawhitte a new inlet I had never observed before. Being tired with beating
against the N.W. winds, I resolved to put into this place, if I found it practicable, or to
anchor in the bay which lies before it. Tho flood being in our favour, after making
a stretch off, we fetched under the Cape, and stretched into tlie bay along by the western
sliore, having from thirty-five to twelve fathoms, tho bottom everywhere good anchorage.
At one o'clock we reached the entrance of the inlet, just as tho tide of ebb was making out;
the wind being likewise against us, we anchored in twelve fathoms water, the bottom a fine
sand. The easternmost of the Black Rocks, which lie on the larboard side of the entrance
of the inlet, bore N. by E., one mile distant ; Cape Teerawhitte, or the west point of
the bay, west, distant about two leagues ; and the east point of the bay N. by E., four or
five miles.

Soon after we had anchored, several of the natives came off in their canoes ; two from
one shore, and one from the other. It required but little address to got three or four of
them on board. These people were extravagantly fond of nails above every other thing.
To one man I gave two cocks and two hens, which ho received w'^l- uuch indifference,
as gave me little hopes he would take proper care of them. Wt . .lot been at anchor
here above two hours, before the wind veered to iVE., with whici ve weighed; but the
anchor was hardly at the bows before it shifted to south. With this e could but just lead
out of the bay, and then bore away for the Sound under all the sail we could set ; having
the advantage, or rather disadvantage, of an increasing gale, v^liloh already blew too hard.
We hauled up into the Sound just at dark, after making two boards, in which most of our
sails were split ; and anchored in eighteen fathoms water, between the White Rocks and
the N.W. shore.

The next morning the gale abated, and was succeeded by a few hours' calm ; after that
a breeze sprung up at N.W., with which we weighed and ran up into Ship Cove, where wo
did not find the Adventure as was expected.

Nov. 1773.

vc fathoms;

twcnty-fivo
(1, uiulcr tho
ig before wc
,, in liuj)L's of
vo woro ami

to a perfect
permit us to
y Mountains
Ing the wind
egan to blow
ich nituation
ill calm,
iuccccded by
id with hazy
r it must bo
it wanting in

and steering
.t two o'clock

so likely to
rning. Once
ourable wind
1 increased to
; and we lost

over for tho
3 leeward, we
3 had got into
1 the east side

with beating
cticable, or to

after making
y the western
od anchorage.

I making out;

bottom a fine
the entrance

west point of

jy E., four or

cs ; two from
ce or four of
y other thing,
indifference,
)ccn at anclior
hcd ; but tho
but just lead
d set ; having
jlew too hard,
h most of our
to Rocks and

m ; after that
ove, where we

Nov. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYA(JK llOl ND TIIK \VOHI,T>.

rs.i

C'llAPTrR V. — TnANSACTIONS I\ QtTF.N CrTAni.OTTK's SOfM), WITH AN ACCorNT OT TIIF,
INIIAnrTANTS IlKINfl CANNIIIA r.S, AM) VAHIOIS OTIirU INnilKNTS. — It|l'AUri'HK IROM
TIIK SOU.ND, AND Ol'R KNDI'.AVOUliS TO FIND Tlli: AIlVKMllir., Willi .>«()Mi; DKtiCHIl'TlO.V
OP THE COAST.

The first thing wo did, aftor mooring the ship, was to uiiht'iid all tlio sails, there not
being one but what wanted repair. Indeed, both our sails and rii:i;iiinf hail sustiiiiu'd niiK'h
damage in beating off the Strait's mouth. We hud no sotiiu'r aiuliorcd tlian we were
visited by the natives, several of whom I rememherid to have awn when I was here iu the
Endeavour, particularly an old man named fioul)iiih. In the nftirnoon I ;j;ave orders for
all tho empty water-casks to be landed, in order to be re])airetl, eleaued, and filled ; tents
to be set up for the sail- makers, eoojicrs, and others, whose l>ii>iiu'ss made it ntecssary for
them to bo on shore. The next day wc began to caulk the ship's sides and decks, to over-
haul her rigging, repair tho sails, cut wood for fuel, and set up the smith's forge to repair
tho iron-work ; all of which woro absolutely necessary. We also made some hauls with
the seine, but caught no fish, which deficiency the natives in some nuasure made up, by
bringing us a good quantity, and exchanging them for pieces of Otalieiteau cloth, &c.

On the 5th, the most part of our bread being in casks, I ordered some U be opened,
when, to our mortification, we found a good deal of it damaged. To re|)air this loss in tlio
best manner we could, all the casks were opened, the bread was ])ieke(l, and the copjier
oven set up, to hake such ])arcels of it as by that means could be recovered, yunie time
this morning, the natives stole out of one of the tents a bag of clothes belonging to one of
the seamen. As soon as I was informed of it, I went to tliem in an adjoining cove,
demanded the clothes again, and, after some time spent in friendly ap])lieatiou, recovered
them. Since wc were among thieves, and had come otV so well, I was not sorry for what
had happened, as it taught our people to keep a better look-out for the future.

With these people I saw the youngest of tho two sows Captain Furneaux had put on
shore in Cannibal Cove, when we were last here : it was lame of one of its hind legs ;
otherwise in good case, and very tame. If we imderstood these peoi>le right, the boar and
other sow were also taken away and separated, but not killed. We were likewise told that
the two goats I had put on shore up the Sound had been killed by that old rascal Cioubiah.
Thus all our endeavours to stock this country with useful animals were likely to be
frustrated by the veiy people wo meant to serve. Our gardens had fared somewhat better.
Everything in them, exccj)t the potatoes, they had left entirely to nature, who had acted
her part so well, that wo found most articles in a flourishing state ; a proof that the winter
must have been mild. The potatoes had most of them been dug up ; some, however, still
remained, and were growing, though I think it is i>robablc they will never be got out of
the ground.

Next morning I sent over to tho cove, where the natives reside, to haul tho seine, and
took with mo a boar and a young sow, two cocks and two hens, we had brought from the
isles. These I gave to the natives, being persuaded they would take projjcr care of them,
by their keeping Captain Furneaux's sow near five months ; for I am to suppose it was
caught soon after we Stalled. We had no better success with the seine tiian before ; never-
theless, wc did not return on board quite empty, having purchased a large cpiantity from
the natives. When we were upon this traffic, they showed a great inclination to jiick my
pockets, and to take away the fish with one hand which they had just given me with the
other. This evil one of the chiefs undei'took to remove, .and with fury in his eyes m.ado
!! show of keeping tho people at a proper distance. I applauded his conduct, but at the
5 inic time kept so good a look-out, as to detect him in picking my pocket of a handkerchief,
which I suffered him to put in his bosom before I seemed to know anything of the matter,
and then told him what I had lost. lie seemed quite ignorant and innocent, till I took it
Irom him ; and then he put it off with a lauuh, acting his i)art with so much address, that

F F

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IMAGE EVALUATION
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Wi«STER,N.Y. I4SS0

(716) •72-4503

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4-14

COOK S SECOND VOYAGE IIOLXD THE WORLD.

Nov. iV7n.

it was liiirdly poss'iblo for mc to bo angry with him ; so that we remained good friends, and
lie acconipaiiii<! mc on hoard to dinner. About that time wc were visited by several
strangers, in four or five canoes, who brought with them fish and other articles, which they
exchanged for clotii, &c. Tiiesc new-comers took u|» their quarters in a cove near us; but
very early the next morning moved c/ft" with six of our small water-casks, and with them all
the people we found here on our arrival. This precipitate retreat of tlicsc last we supposed
was owing to the theft the others had committed. They left behind them some of their
dogs, and tlie boar I had given them the day before, which I now took back again, as I had
not another. Our casks were the least loss wc felt by these people leaving us; while they
remained, we were generally well supplied with fish, at a small expense.

We had fair weather, with the wind at north-east, on the 9th, which gave us some hopes
of seeing the Adventure ; but these hopes vanished in the afternoon, when the wind shifted
to the westward. The next morning our friends the natives returned again, and brought
with them a ipuintity of fish, which they exchanged for two h.itchets. Fair weather on the
12th enabled us to finish picking, airing, and baking our biscuit; four thousand two
hundred and ninety-two pounds of which wc found totally unfit to cat ; and about three
thousand ])oiuids more could only be eaten by people in our situation.

Ou the l.^th, clear and pleasant weather. Early in the morning the natives brought us a
quantity of fish, which they exchanged as usual. But their greatest branch of trade was
the green talc or stone, called by them, Pociiammoo, a thing of no great value ; nevertheless,
it was so much sought after by our people, that there w.as hartlly a thing they would not
give for a niece of it. The ITith being a j)leasant morning, a party of us went over to the
Kast Hay, ami climbed one of the hills which overlooked the eastern part of tho strait, in
order to look for the Adventure. We had a fatiguing walk to little purpose; for when wo
came to the summit, wc found the eastern horizon so foggy, that we could not sec above
two niiles. Mr. Torster, who was one of the party, profited by this excursion, in collecting
some new plants. I now began to despair of seeing the Adventure any more, but was totally
at a loss to conceive what was become of her. Till now, I thought she had put into some
port in the strait, when the wind came to north-west the day wc anchored in the cove, and
waited to coniple'-" her water. This conjecture was reasonable enough at first, but it was
now hardly probable she could be twelve days in our neighbourhood, without our either
hearin" or seeing souieihing of her.

The hill wc now mounted is the same that I was upon in 1 77*\ when I had the second
view of tlic strait : we then built a tower with the stones we found there, which we now
saw had been levelled to the ground, no doubt by the nativi-s, with a view of finding some-
thing hid in it. When wc returned from the hill, we found a number of them collected
round our boat. After some exchanges, and making them some presents, wc embarked, in
order to return on board, and in our way visited others of the inhabitants, by whom we were
kindly reeeiveil. Our friends, the natives, employed themselves on the IJth in fishing in
our neighbourhood, and, as fast as they caught the fish, came and disposed of them to us,
insomuch that wo had more than we could make use of. I-Voni this day to the 22d nothing
remarkable hapjien-'d, and wc were occupied in getting everything in readiness to put to
sea, being resolved to wait no longer than the assigned time for the Adventure.

The winds were between the south and west, stormy with rain till the 22d, when the
weather became settled, clear, and pleasant. Very early in the morning we were visited by
a number of the natives, in four or five canoes, very few of whom wc had seen before. They
brought with them various articles (ctiriosities) which they exchanged for Otahcitean cloth,
&c. At first the exchanges were very much in our favour, till an old man, who was no
stranger to us, came and assisted his countrymen with his advice, which in a moment turned
the trade above a thousand per cent, against us.

After these people were gone, I took four hogs (that is, three sows and one boar), two
cocks and two hens, which I landed in the bottom of the West Bay, carrying them a little
way into the woods, where we left them with as much food as would serve them ten or
twelve days. This was done with a view of keeping them in the woods, lest they should
couic down to the shore in search of food and be discovered by the natives ; which, however,

Nov. IVT.I.

ricmls, and
by several
which they
ar us ; but
th them all

supposed
me of their
in, as I had
while they

some hopes
f'mA shifted
nd brought
,thcr on the
)usand two
about three

)rought us a
f trade was
levorthclcss,
• would not
over to the
<e strait, in
or when wo
ot sec above
in collecting

1 was totally
it into sonic
)c cove, and
, but it was
t our cither

I the second
ich we now
iding somc-
m collected
nbarkcd, in
oni we were
n fishing in
them to us,
22d nothing
3S to put to

d, when the
e visited by
fore. They
itean cloth,
vho was no
ncnt turned

boar), two
hem a little
;hem ten or
they should
h, however,

Nov. ]77'1.

ipd

COOK'S SECOND VOVAC.K KOIN]) TIM: WOIM.H.

.'35

socniPd not probable, as this jilace had never been fro(|iipnt.'d by thcni, nor wcr.-- any tnc( s
(if them to bo seen near it. Wo also loft sonio coiks and bens in tlio woods in Slii]i Ci.vo ;
but theso will have a chance of falling into tlio hands of the natives, wlio-o waii'l.rinn; vay
of lifo will hinder tlioni from brooding, ovon supiiosi; tiny -liuiiM lie t.iki :i luojir ..■are
of. Indeed thoy took rather too much care of tliosc wliicli I liail alnaily ;:ivon liuin, by
keeping them continually confined, for fear of losing tluin in tlic woods. Tin- fsow jiig wo
had not scon since the day thoy had hor from nio ; but wo wi ro now told >lio was still living,
as also the old boar and sow given them by ('a|ttaiu Furneaux ; so tliat then! is reason to
hope they may succeed. It will bo unfortunate, indeed, if every nietliod I have taken fo
provide this country with useful animals shouM bo frustrated. We wore likewise toM tliat
the two goats wore still alive and running about, but I gave more credit to the llrst story
than this. I should have replaced them, by leaving the only two 1 liad left, but had tiio
misfortime to lose the ram soon after our arrival hero in a manner we could hardly aeoount
for. They were both put ashore at the tents, wliero thej' seiiin d to thrive very \v« II : at
last the ram was taken with fits bordering on madness. We wore at a lo.-s to ti II whether
it was occasioned by anything ho had eaten, or by being stung 'vitl: nettles, which were in
plenty ah mt the place, but supposeil it to lie the latter, and therefore did not take the care
of him we ought to have done. One night while he was lying by the sentinel, ho was
seized with one of these fits, and ran headlong into the soa, but soon came out again and
seemed quite easy. Presently after, he was seized with another fit, and ran along the beach,
with the she-goat after him. Some time after she returned, but the other wa.s never seen
more. Diligent search was made for him in the woods to no jiiu'iioso ; wo, therefoic,
supposed ho had run into the sea a second time and had been drowned. After this accident,
it would h.avo been in vain to leave the sho-goat, as she was not with ki<I, having kidded
but a few days before wo arrived, and the kids dead. 1'hus the reader will see how
every method I have taken to stock this country with sheep and goats has proved
ineffectual.

When I returned on board in the evening, I found our good friends the natives had brought
us a large supply offish. Some of the officers visiting them at their habitations, saw among
them some human thigh-bones, from which the flesh had boon but lately jiickofl. 'I'his and
other circumstnnces led us to believe that the jiooplo whom we took for strangers this
morning, were of the same tribe ; that thoy had boon out on some war expedition ; and that
those things they sold us were the spoils of their enemies. Indeed, we hail some information
of tins sort the day before ; for a number of women and children caine otV to us in a canoe,
from whom we learnt that u party of men were then out, for whose safety they were under
some apprehension ; but this report found little credit with us, as wo soon after saw some
canoes come in from fishing, which we judged to bo them. Having now got the ship in a
condition for sea, and to encounter the southern latitudes, I ordered the tents to be struck
and everything to be got on board.

The boatswain, with a party of men, being in the woods cutting broom, some of tliom
found a private hut of the natives, in which was doprisitod most of the treastire they had
received from us, as well as some other articles of their own. It is very probable some were
set ti) watch this hut ; as, soon after it was discovered, thoy came and took all away. But
nii.ssing some things, they told our peojde thoy had stolen them, and in the evening came and
made their complaint to me, pitching upon one of the party as the person who bad committed
the theft. Having ordered this man to be punished before them, they went away seemingly
satisfied, although they did not recover any of the things they had lost, nor could I by any
means find out what had become of them ; though nothing was more certain than that
something had been Btolen by some of the party, if not by the very man the natives had
pitched upon. It was ever a maxim with me to punish the least crimes any of my people
committed against theso uncivilized nations. Tlieir robbing us with impunity is by no
means a sufficient reason why we should treat them in the same manner, a conduct wo see
they themselves cannot justify. They found themselves injured, and sought for redress in a
legal way. The best method, in my opinion, to preserve a good understanding with such
people, is, first, by showing them the use of fire-arms, to convince them of the superiority

ff3

■I li

■i!

; '^«

, ■(

4.3G

COOKS si:( osn voyage roind tiik would.

Nov. 177 .^

tiloy pivo you nvor tlicni, ami tlicn to l)o always iipon your friiarJ. Wlicn once tlioy arc
si'usihle of tlicsi' tliinjis, a rifrard for tlu-ir own safety will dttur tlicni from disturbing you,
or from lieinj,' unanimous in formini' any jilan to attack you, and strict honesty and gentle
trcatnunt on your |)art will make it tlicir intcrost not to do it.

Calm orlij^lit airs from the north all ''ay on the Slid hindered us from putting; to sea as
intviidcd. In tiie afti rnoon, some of the otticers went on shore to amuse themselves among
the natives, wiure tliey saw the hea<l and bowels of a youth, who liad lately been killed,
Ivini' on the beach, ami thi^ heart stuck on a forked stick which was fixed to the head of one
of tlie largest canoes. One of tlie gentlemen bought the head and brought it on b4)ard, where
a iiieee of the llesli was broiled and eaten by one of the natives, before all the officers and
most of the men. 1 was on shore at this time, but soon after returning on board, was
informed <if the above circumstances, and found the quarter-deck crowded with the natives,
and the mangled head, or rather part of it (for the imder jaw and lip were wanting), lying on
the taft'eral. The skull had been broken on the left side just above the temples, and the
remains of the face had all the appearance of a youtii under twenty.

The sight of the head, and the relation of the above circumstances, struck me with horror,
anil fill('(i my mind with indignation against these cannibals. Curiosity, however, got tho
better of my indignation, especially when I considered that it would avail but little, and
being desirous of becoming an eye-witne&s of a fact which many doubted, I ordered a piece
of the flesh to be broiled and brought to the quarter-deck, where one of these cannibals ate
it with surprising avidity. This li^d such an effect on some of our people as to make them
sick. Oedidee (who came on board with me) was so affected with the sight as to become
perfectly motionliss, and seemed as if metamorphosed into the statue of horror. It is utterly
ini])os8il>le for art to describe that ])assion with half the orce that it appeared in his counte-
nance. When roused from this state by some of us, lie burst into tears; continued to weep
and scold by turns ; told them they were vile men ; and that he neither was nor would be
any longer their friend. He even would not suffer them lu touch him; he used the same
language to one of the gentlemen who cut off the flesh, and refused to accept or even touch
the knife with which it was done. (Such was Oedidee's indignation "gainst the vile custom,
and worthy of imitation by every rational being.

I was not able to find out the reason for their undertaking this expedition. All I could
undeistand for certain was, that they went from hence into Admiralty Bay (the next inlet
to the west) and there fought with their enemies, many of whom they killed. They counted
to me fifty, a number which exceeded probability, as tliey were not more, if so many, them-
selves. I think I understood them clearly, that this youth was killed there, and not brought
away prisoner and afterwards kilhd. Nor could I learn that they had brought away any
more than this one ; which increased the improbability of their having killed so many.
Wo had also reason to think that they did not come off without loss ; for a young
>voman was seen more than once to cut herself, as is the custom when they lose a friend
or relatitm.

That the New Zealanders are cannibals can now no longer be doubted. Tho account given
of this in my former voyage, being i>artly founded on circumstances, was, as I afterwards
understood, iliscredited by many persons. Few consider what a savage man is in his natural
state, and even after he is in some degree civilized. The New Zealanders are certainly in
some state of civilization ; their behaviour to ua was manly and mild, showing on all occa-
sions a readiness to oblige. They have some arts among them which they execute with
great judgment and imwearied patience; they are far loss addicted to thieving than the
other islanders of the Kouth Sea ; and I believe those in tho same tribe, or such as are at
peace one with another, are strictly honest among themselves. This custom of eating their
enemies slain in battle (for I firmly believe they eat the flesh of no otliers) has, undoubtedly,
been handed down to them from the earliest times ; and we know it is not an easy matter
to wean a nation from their ancient customs, let them be ever so inhuman and savage ;
especially if that nation has no maimer of connexion or commerce with strangers. For it is
by this that the greatest part of the human race has been civilized ; an advantage which the
New Zealanders from their situatiuu never had. An intcrcourtic with fureigncra would

S'(.v. 177 .1.

; tlioy arc
bing you,
mil guiitlo

to sen aa
ves among
L'ln killed,
iuad of uiiu
ard, wlicri!
IRccrs and
board, was
lu natives,
;), lying ou
■s, and tlic

ritli liorror,
er, got tlio

little, and
Ted a piece
innibals ate
make them

to bcconio
It 19 utterly
bis counte-
led to weep
r would be
d tlic same

even touch
^ile custom,

All I could
L> next inlet
ley counted
any, tliem-
iiot brought
away any
so many,
a voiing
jse a friend

count given

afterwards

lis natural

ertainly in

m all oeca-

ecute with

ig than the

li as arc at

ating their

doubtedly,

asy matter

nd savage ;

For it is

which the

icra would

Nov. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAC.K IIOUNP TIIK ^VOIILD.

4,'!7

reform their manners, and polish tlieir savage minds. < >r, were they more united under a
settled form of government, tiiey would have fewer enemies ; conse()uentIy, this cu^^toin
woulil ho less in use, ;iiid might in time he in a innnner fiirf;iitteii. At jtresent, thev \in\j
but little idea of treating otliers as themselves would irlx/i to he treated, but treat tbein as
they expect to be treate(l. If I remember right, one of the arguments they made use of to
Tupia, who frecpiently expostulated with them .against this eustnm, was, that there eouM
be no barm in killing and eating the man who would do tlie siiiiie hy tlion, if it was in lli^
jKiwer. l"'or, said tliey, " (.'an there be any barm in «'atiiig our enemies, wIkitu we have
killed in Imttle ? Would not those very enemies have done tlie same to us?" I have often
seen them listen to Tupia with great attention ; hut I never found liis aiguiiiiiits have any
weight with them, or that, with all his rhetoric, be could jiersuade any oik^ of them tliat this
custom was wrong; and when Oedidee and several of our people showed tlieir al)horreneo
of it, they only laughed .at them.

Among many reasims which I have beard assigned for tlie iirevaliU'i* of this horrid
rustoni, the want of animal food has been one ; but bow far this is dediieihie eiilier from
facts or circumstances, I sh.all leave those to find out who advanced it. In every part of
New Ze,al.and where I have been, fish w.as in sueli plenty, tliat tlie natives generally ea'ight
.as much as served both themselves and us. They have also jileiity of dog« ; nor is there
any want '^ wild-fowl, which they know very well bow to kill. So tliat luither this, nor
the w.ant oi food of any kind, can in my opinion be the reason. liiit whatever it may be, I
think it w.as but too evident that they have a great liking for tliis kind of food.

I must here observe that Oedidee soon learnt to converse with these j)eo]>le, as I am
persuaded be would have done with the jjcojilc of Amsterdam, had he lu-en a liltli! longer
with them ; for be did not understand the New Zealanders at liist any more tlian, or not so
much as, be understood the people of Amsterdam.

At four o'clock in the morning, on the 24tli, we unmoored with an intent to put to sea;
but the wind being at north .and north-east without, and blowing strong pull's into the cove,
made it necessary for us to lie fast. While we were unmooring, some of our old friends
came (m board to t.ake their leave of ns, and afterwards left the cove with all their effects;
Iiut those who had been out on the late exitedition rein.vined ; and some of the gentlemen
having visited them, found the heart still sticking on the canoe, and the intestines lying ou
the beach ; but the liver and lungs were now wanting. Probably they had eaten them
after the carcase was all gone.

On the 25th, early in the morning, wo weighed, with a small breeze, out of the cove,
which carried us no farther than between Motuara and Long Island, where we were obliged
to anchor ; but presently after a breeze springing up at north, we weighed again, turned out
of the Sound, and stood over for Cape Teerawhitte. During our st.ay in the Sound we were
plentifully supplied with fish, procured from the natives at a very easy rate ; and besides
the vegetables our own gardens afforded, we found everywhere plenty of scurvy-grass and
celery, which I caused to be dressed every day for all the bands. l$y this means they
had been mostly on a fresh diet for the three preceding months; .and at this time we had
neither a sick nor scorbutic man on bo.ard. It is necessary to mention, for the information
of others, that we li.ad now some pork on hoard, salted at Ulietea, ami as good as any I
ever ate. The manner in which we cured it was thus : In the cool of the evening, the
hogs were killed, dressed, cut up, the bones cut out, and the flesh salted while it was yet
hot. The next morning we gave it a second s.alting, packed it into a cask, and put to it
a sufficient quantity of strong ])ickle. (Sre.it care is to be t.aken that the meat be well
covered with pickle, otherwise it will soon spoil.

The morning before we sailed, I wrote a memorandum, setting forth the time we last
arrived, the d.ay we sailed, the route I intended to t.ake, and such other information as I
thought necess<ary for Captain Furneaux, in case he should put into the sound ; and buried
it in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden, which is in the bottimi of the cove, in
such a manner as must be found by him or any Euroi)eau who might put into the cove. I,
however, had little reason to hope it would fall into the hands of the person for whom it
was intended, thinking it hardly possible that the Adventure could be in any port in New

til

I 'i

I' I.

. i

4.3»

COOK S SECOND VOYAtiE UOUND TME WORLD.

Nov. 177.'»,

ri ;:

Zealand, as wc liud not heard of lier in all this time. Nevertheless, I was resolved not to
leave the eoa.<t without looking for her, where I thought it mo»t likely for her to be. It
was with this view that I stood over for Cape Tecrawhitte, and afterward ran alongshore,
from jioint to point, to Cape I'alliwer, firing puns every half-hour ; but all to no crt'eet. At
eight o'elock we brought-to for the night, Capo I'a'.liser bearing south cast by cast distant
three leagues, in which situation we had fifty fathoms water.

I had now an ojiportunity of making the following remarks on the coast between Capo
Tecrawhitte and Caj^c I'alliser. The bay which lies on the west side of the last cape does
not appear to run so far inland to the northward as I at first thought, the deception being
caused by the land in the bottom of it being low ; it is, however, at least five leagues deep,
and full as wide at the entrance. Though it seems to be exposed to southerly and south-
west winds, it is i)robable there may be ])laces in the bottom of it sheltered even from these.
The bay or inlet on the east side of Cape Tecrawhitte, before which wc aachored, lies in
uorti* inclining to the west, and seemed to be sheltered from all winds. The middle cape
or point of land that disjoins these two bays, rises to a considerable height, especially inland;
for close to the sea is a skirt of low laud, off which lie some pointed rocks, but so near to
the shore as to be no ways dantrcrous. Indeed, tiie navigation of this aide of the strait
seems much safer than tlie other, because the tides liere are not near so strong. Cape
Teerawhitt;) aud Capo Palliser lie in tiie direction of X. GO" W. anl 8. ()S)° E. from each
other, distriit ten leagues. The cape which disjoins the two bays above mentioned lies
within, or north of this direction. All the land near the coast, between and about these
capes, is « xceediiigly barren ; )>robably owing to its being so much exposed to the cold
soutlierly winds. From Cape Tecrawhitte to the Two Ilrothcrs, which lie off Cape Koa-
iiiaroo, the course is nearly north-west by north, distant sixteen miles. North of Capo
Tecrawhitte, between it and Kntry Island, is an island lying pretty near the shore. I
judged this to be an island when I saw it in my former voyage, but not being certain, left
it undetermined in my chart of the strait, which is the reason of my taking notice of it now,
as also of the bays, &c. above mentioned.

At dayliglit in the morning of the 2()tli, wc made sail round Cape Palliser, firing guns
as usual as wo ran along the shore. In this manner we proceeded till we were three or
four leagues to the north-east of the cape, when the wind shifting to north-east, wc bore
away to Cape Cami)bell, on the other side of the strait. Soon after seeing a smoke ascend,
at some distance inland away to the north-cast, we hauled the wind, and continued to ply
till six o'clock in the evening ; which was several hours after the smoke disappeared, and
left us not the least signs of people. Every one being unanimously of opinion that the
Adventure could neither be stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours thereof,
1 gave up looking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any more during the voyage ; as
no rendezvous was absolutely fixed upon after leaving New Zealand. Nevertheless, this
did not discourage mo from fully exi)loring the southern parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the
doing of which I intended to employ the whole of the ensuing season.

On our quitting the coast, and, consequently, all hopes of being joined by our consort, I
bad the satisfaction to find that not a man was dejected, or thought the dangers wc had
yet to go through were in the least increased by being alone ; but as cheerfully proceeding
to the south, or wherever I might think proper to lead them, as if the Adventure, or even
more ships, had been in our comjiany.

CHAPTER VI. nOUTF OF THE SHIP FROM NKW ZKALAXU I.\ SKARCII OF A CONTINENT ;

WITH AN ACCOUNT OF TIIK VARIOUS OBS" RUCTIONS MFT WITH FRO.M THE ICE, AND
THE METHODS PUUSUED TO EXPLORE THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC OCEAN.

At eight o'clock in the evening of the 2()th, we took our departure from Cape Palliser,
and steered to the sauth, incliviing to the cast, having a favourable gale from the north-west
and south-Avest : we daily saw some rock-weed, seals, Port-Egmont hens, albatrosses, pin-
tadoes, and other petcrels ; and on the 2d of December, being in the latitude of 48° 2;}' S.,

Nov. \17n.

ulvcil not to
r to be. It
alongHliorc,
etlcct. At
cast distant

itwcen Capo
at ca])c (loud
option being
L'aguea deep,
1^ and south-
I from tlicsc.
lorud, lies in

middle capo
lially inland;
lit so near to
of the strait
roiig. Capo
E, from each
entioncd lies
1 about these

to tlic cold
F Cape Koa-
irth of Capo
10 shore. I
; certain, left
CO of it now,

', firing guns
vcre three or
(ast, wo bore
noke ascend,
inucd to ply
peared, and
ion that the
ours tliereof,
! voyage ; as
rtheless, this
)ccan, in the

ir consort, I
Tcrs we had
r proceeding
;ure, or even

CONTINENT ;
ICE, AND

ape Palliser,
; north-west
trosscs, pin-
48° 2;f S.,

Dec. 177a.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

400

longitude 170' Ki' W,, avc saw a number of red-billed pcnpiiins, which remained about us
for several days. On the .'>th, being in the latitude ;'»(> IJ' S., longitude I'D U)' !•:., tlio
variation was IH" 25' E. At half an hour past eight o'clock tiie next evening, we reckoned
ourselves antipodes to our friends in Loudon, consequently as far removed from them as
possible.

On the 0th, being in latitude '>'»" 39', longitude 17H" 53' W., we ceased to see penguins
and seals, and concluded that those we had seen retired to the southern parts of New Zea-
land whenever it was necessary for them to be at land. We had now a strong gale at
north-west, and a great swell from south-west. This swell we got as soon as the south
point of New Zealand came in that direction ; and as we had bad no wind from that quarter
the six preceding days, but, on the contrary, it had been at east, north, and nortii-west, I
conclude there can be no land to the southward, under the meridian of New Zealand, but
what must lie very far to the south. The two following days we had very stormy weather,
sleet and snow, winds between the north and south-west. The 1 1th the storm abated, and
the weather clearing up, wo found the latitude to be (il" I;*!' S., longitude 173' I' AV. This
fine weather was of short duration : in the evening the wind increased to a strong gale at
south-west, blew in squalls, attended with thick snow showers, hail, and sleet. The mercury
in the thermometer fell to thirty-two, conseijuently the weather was very cold, and seemed
to indicate that ice was not far oil".

At four o'clock the next morning, being in the latitude of 02' 10' S., longitude 172 W.,
we saw the first ice island, 11|° farther .S. than the first ice we saw the preceding year after
leaving the Cape of Good Hope. At the time we saw this ice, we also saw an anlarctie
peterel, some grey albatrosses, and our old companions, pintadoes and blue peterels. Tiic
wi.ul kept veering from S.W. by the N.W. to N.N.E., for tlie most part a fresh gale,
attended with a thick haze and snow; on which account we steered to the S.E. and E.,
keeping the wind always on the beam, tliat it might be in our power to return back nearly
on the same track, should our course have been interrupted by any danger whatever. For
some days wc had a great sea from the N.W. and S. W., so that it is not probable there can
be any land near between these two points. We fell in with several large islands on tho
14th, and, about noon, with a quantity of loose ice, through which we sailed. Latitude
64" fib' S., longitude 163" 20' W. Grey albatrosses, blue peterels, pintadoes, and fulmers
were seen. As wo advanced to the S.E. by E., with a fresh gale at W., we found the
number of ice islands increase fast upon us. Between noun and eight in the evening we saw
but two, but before four o'clock in the morning of the ir»th, we bad passed seventeen, besides
a quantity of loose ice which we ran through. At six oV-lock wc were obliged to haul to tho
north-east, in order to clear an immense field which lay to the south and south-east. Tho
ice in most part of it lay close packed together ; in other places there appeared partitions in
the field, and a clear sea beyond it. However, I did not think it safe to venture through,
as the wind would not permit us to return the same way that we must go in. Besides, as
it blew strong, and the weather at times was exceedingly foggy, it was the more necessary
for us to get clear of this loose ice, which is rather more dangerous than the groat islands.
It was not such ice as is usually found in bays or rivers, and near shore, but such as breaks
oflF from the islands, and may not improperly be called ])arings of tho large pieces, or the
rubbish or fragments which fall off when the great islands break loose from the place where
they are formed.

Wo had not stood long to the north-east before wc fonnd ourselves embayed by the ice,
Rnd were obliged to tack and stretch to the south-west, having the field or loose ice to tho
south, and many huge islands to the north. After standing two hours on this tack, the wind
very luckily veering to the westward, we tacked, stretched to the north, and soon got clear
of all the loose ice, but not before we had received several hard knocks from the larger pieces,
which, with all our care, we could not avoid. After clearing one danger, we still bad another
to encounter ; the weather remained foggy, and many large islands lay in our way ; so that
we had to luff for one, and bear up for another. One wo were very near falling aboard of,
and if it had happened, this circumstance would never have been related. These difficulties,
together with the improbability of finding laud farther south, and the impossibility of exploring

il iili

■ ■ (

' 41 ''I

l>-\

140

(OOKS SE( OND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLP.

Dkc. 1773.

it on account of tlio ico, if we mIiouM find any, (Ktermint'J me to jjet more to the north. At
tlip time we last t.ickid, we were in t!ie longitiule of IfiD" 20' W., and in tl>e latitude of
fiO' 0' S. Several jx nrjuins were seen on some of the ice islands, and a few antarctic petcrels
on the wing.

We continued to stand to the north, with a fresh galo at west, attended with thick snow
showers till eiyht o'clock in the evening, when the wind ahated, the sky began to clear up,
and, at six o'clock in the morning of the IGth, it fell calm. Four hours after, it was suc-
ceeded by a lire«ze at north-east, with which we stretched to the south-east, having thick
liazy weather, with snow showers, and all our rigging coated with ice. In the evening, wo
attempted to take some out of the sea, but were obliged to desist, the sea running too higlt,
and the piecis being so large, that it was dangerous for the boat to conte near them. The
next morning, being the I "th, we succeeded better ; for falling in with a (piantity of loose
ice, we hoisted out two boats, and by noon got on board as much as wo could manage. Wo
then made sail for the east, with a gentle breeze northerly, attended with snow and sleet,
whicli froze to the rigging as it fell. At this time we were in the latitude of (54" 41' S.,
longitude l."»5" 44' W. The ice we took up proved to be none of the best, being chiefly
coinptxi'd of frozen snow, on which account it was porous, and had imbibed a good deal of
salt water ; but this drained oH' after lying a while on deck, and the water then yielded was
fresh. We continued to stretch to the east, with a piercing cold northerly wind, attended
with a thick fog. snow, an<l sleet, that decorated all our rigging with icicles. We were
hourly meeting with some of the large ice islands, which in these high latitudes render navi-
gation so very dangerous. At sevni in the evening, falling in with a cluster of them, we
n.irrowiy escaped running aboard of one, and with difliculty wore clear of the others. Wo
stood back to the west till ten o'clock, at which time the fog cleared away, and wo resumed
our course to the east. At noon the next day, we were in the latitude of 04" 41)' S., longi-
tude 141)" ]\y W. Some time after, our longitude, by observed distance of the sun and moon,
was 14!)" ID' W. ; by 3Ir. Kendal's watch, 148" 30'; and by my reckoning, 148" 43', latitude
(i4" 48 S.

The clear weather and the wind veering to north-west tempted mo to steer south, which
course we continued till seven in the morning of the 20th, when the wind changing to north-
east, and the sky becoming clouded, we hauled up south-east. In the afternoon the wind
incrcisid to a strong gale, attended with a thick fog, snow, sleet, and rain, which constitut«s
the very worst of weather. Our rigging at this time was so loaded with ice that we had
enough to do to get our to]>- sails down to double the reef. At seven o'clock in the evening,
in the longitude of 147 40', we came the second time within the antarctic or polar circle,
continuing our course to the south-east till six o'clock the next morning. At that time, being
in the latitude of 0/^ 5' S., all at once we got in among a cluster of very largo ice islands,
and a vast quantity of loose pieces ; and, as the fog was exceedingly thick, it was with the
utmost difliculty we wore clear of them. This done, we stood to the north-west till noon,
when the fog being somewhat dissipated, we resumed our course again to the south-east.
The ice islands we niet with in the morning were very high and rugged, forming at their toi)8
many peaks ; whereas the most of those we had swn before were flat at top, and not so high,
thougli many of them were between two an<l three hundred feet in height, and between two
and three miles in circuit, with jMrpendicular elifts or sides, .astonishing to behold. Alost of
fiur winged companions had now lift us, the grey albatrosses only remained, and instead of
the other birds we were visited by a few antarctic j)eterels.

The 22nd we steered east-south-east with a fresh galo at north, blowing in squalls, one
of which took hold of the mizen top-sail, tore it all to rags, and rendered it for ever after
useless. At six o'clock in the morning, the wind veering toward the west, our course was
east- northerly. At this time we were in the latitude of 07' 'M\ the highest we had yet been
in, longitude 142' 54' west. We continued our course to the east by north till noon the 23d,
when, being in the latitude of 07^ 12', hmgitude 138^ 0', we steered south-east, having then
twenty-three ice islands in sight from off the deck, and twice that number from tho mast-
head, and yet we could not see above two or three miles round us. At four o'clock in tho
afternoon, in the latitude of 07^ 20', longitude 137" 12', we fell in with such a quantity of

»:

:i:

Di:c. 1773.

lortli. At
latitude of
ic pctcrc-Is

hick snow
) ck-ar up,
t was 8UC-
ving thick
'filing, we
; too high,
ii'ni. The
y of hutse
[lage. Wo

and sleet,
54^ 41' S.,
ing chiefly
)od deal of
ielded was
I, attended

We were
nder navi-
' them, we
hers. Wo
re resumed
' S., longi-
and moon,
3', latitude

uth, which

? to north-

the wind

)n»titut'<s

lat we had

evening,

ar circle,

me, heing

CO islands,

with the

till noon,

outh-east.

their topa

t so high,

ween two

3Iost of

instead of

lualls, one
jvcr after
ourse was
yet been
n the 23d,
ving then
ho mast-
ck in the
lantity of

J)Ec. 1773.

field or loose

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE KOUND THE WORLD.

'd the

I the whole extent from south to east, and

441

thick

as covered
and close as wholly to obstruct our passage. At this time, the wind being pretty nuiderate,
and the sea smooth, we brought to at the outer edge of the ice, hoisted out two boats, and
sent them to take some u]). In the mean time, we laid hold of several large pieces alongside,
and got them on board with our tackle. The taking u]) ice proved such cold work, that it
was eight o'clock by the time the boats had nuuli! two trips ; when we hoisted them in, and
made sail to the west, under double-reefed to|)sails and courses, with a strong gale at north,
attended with snow and slcct, which froze to the rigging as it fell, making the ropes like
wires, and the sails like boards or plates of metal. The sheaves also were frozen so fast in
tlie blocks, that it re([uired our utuu)st ell'orts to get a topsail down and up ; the cold so
intense as hardly to be endured ; the whole sea, in a manner covered with ice ; a hard gale,
and a thick fog.

I'nder all tliese unfavourable circumstances, it was natural for me to think of returning
ntore to the north, seeing no probability of finding any land here, nor a possibility of getting
farther south ; and to have proceeded to the east, in this latitude, must have been wrong,
not only on account of the ice, but because we must have left a vast space of sea to the nortli
unexplored ; a space of 24° of latitude, in which a large tract of land might have lain.
Whether such a supposition was well grounded, could only be determined by visiting tlux^e
])arts.

While we were taking up ice, we got two of the antarctic peterels so often mentioned, by
which our conjectures were confirmed of their being of the peterel tribe. They are about the
size of a largejiigcon ; the feathers of the head, back, and part of the upper side of the wings,
are of a light brown ; the belly and under side of the wings, white ; the tail-feathers are also
white, but tipped with brown ; at the same time, we got another new i>eterel, smaller than
the former, and all of a dark-grey plumage. Wo remarked that these birds were fuller of
feathers than any we had hitherto seen ; such care has nature taken to clothe them suitably
to the climate in which they live. At the same time we saw a few chocolate-coloured alba-
trosses ; these, as well as the peterels above mentioned, we nowhere saw but among the ice ;
hence one may, with reason, conjecture that there is land to the south. If not, 1 must ask
where these birds breed ? A question which perhaps will never be determined ; for hitherto
we have found these lands, if any, quite inaccessible. Besides these birds, we saw a very
largo seal, which kept playing about us some time. One of our peojde who had been at
Greenland called it a sea-horse ; but every one else who saw it took it for what I have said.
Since our first falling in with the ice, the mercury in the thermometer had been from 33 to
31 at noon-day.

On the 24th, the wind abated, veering to the r.orth-wcst, and the sky cleared up, in the
latitude of 67° 0', longitude 138° 15'. As we advanced to the north-east, with a gentle gale
at north-west, the ice islands increased so fast upon us, that this day at noon we could see near
100 round us, besides an immense number of small pieces. Perceiving that it was likely to
be calm, I got the ship into as clear a berth as I could, where she drifted along with the ice ;
and by taking the advantage of every light air of wind, was kept from falling aboard any of
tliese floating isles. Here it was we spent Christmas-day, much in the same manner as wo
did the preceding one. We were fortunate in having continu<al daylight and clear weather ;
for had it been .as foggy as on some of the jireceding days, nothing less than a miracle could
have saved us from being dashed to pieces.

In the morning of the 2()tli, the whole sea was in a manner covered with ice, 200 large
islands and upwards being seen within the compass of four or five miles, which was the
limits of our horizon, besides smaller pieces innumerable. Our latitude at noon was (50° l.*)',
longitude 134° 22'. By observation we found that the ship had drifted, or gone about 20
miles to the north-east or east-north-east, whereas by the ice islands it appeared that she had
gone little or nothing ; from which we concluded that the ice drifted nearly in the same
direction, and at the Siimo rate. At four o'clock a breeze sprung up at west-south-west, and
enabled us to steer north, the most probable course to extricate ourselves from these dangers.
We continued our course to the north with a gentle breeze at west, attended with clear
weather, till four o'clock tho next morning, when, meeting with a quantity of loose ice, we

i.i

,:'ii

t I

]■

442

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE HOUND THE WOULD.

Jan. 1774.

\ J i

brouglit to, nnd took on beard as much ns fillcil all our empty casks, and fur several days'
jtreHi'iit expense. Tliis done, we made sail, an<l steered north-west, with a gentle hreeze at
north-east, clear frosty weather. Our latitude at this time was (>o' M' H,, longitude I'M'
42' \y, i islands of ice not half so numerous as before.

At four in the morning of the 2Hth, the wind having veered moro to the east and south-
east, increased to a fresh gale, and was attended with snow showers. Our course was north
till noon the next d-iy. being then in the latitude of (52' 24', longitude I'M" 'AT, westeered
north-west by north. Some hours after the eky cleared up, and the wind abating, veered
more t(» the south. On the .3<)th, had little wind westerly ; dark gloomy weather, with snow
and sleet at times ; several whales seen playing about the ship, but very few birds ; islands
of ice in plenty, and a swell from wcst-nortii-west. On the.'Ust, little wind from the west-
ward ; fair and clcir weather, which afforded an opportunity to air the spare sails, and to
clean and smoke the ship betwixt decks. At noon our latitude was ftU^ 40' 8., longitude
l;J5' 11' W. Our observation to-d.ay gave us reason to conjecture that wo had a southerly
current. Indeeil, this was no more tlian what might reasonably be supposed, to account for
such huge ma-ssea of ice beins brouifht from the soutii. In the afternoon, had a few hours''
calm, succeeded by a breeze from the east, which enabled us to resume our north-west by
north course.

January 1st, the wind remained not long at east ; but veered round by the south to west ;
blew fresh, attended with snow showers. In the evening, being iu the latitude of TtH-' 39' S.
we passed twj islands of ice ; after which we saw no more till we stood again to the south.
At five o'clock in the moniing on the 2iid, it fell calm : being at this time iu the latitude of
.W 2', longitude 1:^7"' 12'. The calm being succeeded by a breeze at east, we steered N.W.
by W. My reason for steering this course was to explore part of the great space of sua
between us and our track to the south.

On the .'{rd, at noon, being in latitude iid" 40', longitude 139" 4it', the weather became
fair, and the wind veered to south-west. About this time wo saw a few small divers
(as wc call the he pcterel tribe, which we judged to be such as are usually seen near

land, especially -c bays, and on the coast of New Zealand. I cannot tell what to

think of these ut. .-. Had there been more of them, I should have been ready enough
to believe that wo were at this time not very far from land, as I never saw one so far
from known land before. Probably these few had been drawn thus far by some shoal
of fish, for such were certainly about us, by the vast number of blue peterels, albatrosses,
and such other birds as are usually seen in the great ocean ; all or most of which left us
before night. Two or three pieces of sea-weed were also seen ; but these appeared old and
decayed.

At eight o'clock in the evening, being in the latitude of .10^ S., longitude 140^ 31' west,
the wind fixing in the western board, obliged us to steer north-easterly, and laid me imder
the necessity of leaving unexplored a space of the sea to the west, containing near 40"^ of
longitude and a half tliat in latitude. Had the wind continued favourable, I intended to
have run la or 20 degrees of longitude more to the west, in the latitude we were then in,
and back again to the east in the latitude of 50°. This route would have so intersected the
space above mentioned, as hardly to have left room for the bare supposition of any land lying
there. Indeed, as it was, wo have little reason to believe that there is ; but ratlier the con-
trary, from the great hollow swell we had had for several days, from the W. and N.W.,
though the wind had blown from a contrary direction great part of the time ; which is a great
sign we had not been covered by any land between these two points. While we were in the
high latitudes, many of our people were attacked with a slight fever, occasioned by colds.
It happily yielded to the simplest remedies ; was generally removed in a few days ; and at
this time we had not above one or two on the sick list.

Wc proceeded N.E, by N. till the 6th, at noon. Being then in the latitude 52" 0' S.,
longitude 135° 32' W., and about 200 leagues from our track to Otaheite, in which space it
was not probable, all circumstances considered, there is any extensive land ; and it being
still less probable any lay to the west, from the great mountainous billows wo had had, and
still continued to have from that quarter; I therefore steered N.E. with a fresh gale at
W.S.W.

Jan. 1774.

si'vtTiiI (lays'
tic hrt'o/.c nt
iigitudc KJ3'

it and sotitli-
MO was iiortli
7', westeeri'tl
iitiiig, vi'eri'tl
r, with snow
irdH ; islands
jni tlio west*

sails, and to
S., lungitudo
1 a sontluTly
account for

a few hours'
or th- west by

uth to west ;
of .W :«)' S.
to the soutli.
he latitude of
steered N.W.
spaco of sea

ather became
small divers
illy seen near
tell what to
ready enough
w one so far
some shoal
9, albatrosses,
which left us
aarcd old and

40' 31' west,
aid me under
2 near 40" of

int«nded to
were then in,
itersected the
ny land lying
,tlicr the con-

and N.W.,
lich is a great
^c were in the
incd by colds.
days ; and at

ado 52» 0' a.,
vhich space it
and it being
had had, and
fresh gale at

Jan. 1774.

COOKS i*Et()N!) VOV.MJK ROJt.VD TirE WOULD.

44.T

l'X\"

24' west.

\x\

net

i:w

:\7 2;V'

I'M

:»7

i:w

21 l;j

iM:i

41 wcwt.

\:v.\

:to

2 lii^t.

At eight oVlock in the morning on the 7tli, being in the latitude of aO' 40' south, we
observed wi veral distances of the sun and moon, which travo the longitude as follows, vi/.. :

By Mr. Wales

(Jilbeit

("Urke

Smith ......

Ulyself

Menu .......

Ily the watch ......

.My reckoning .......

Variation of the compass .....

Thermometer .......

The ne.\t morning wo observed again ; and the results were agreeable to the preceding
iiltservatioiis, allowing for the ship's nm. I must here take notice that our longitude can
never be erroneous, while we have so good a guide as Mr. Kendal's watch. This day at
iKion we steered E.X.E. ^, K., being then in the latitude of 40 7' «., longitude \'M 2' W.

On the 0th, in the latitude of 4JP 17' S., longitnde 127 10' W., we steered east with a
line fresh galo at west, attended with clear jjleasant weather, ami a great swell from the
same direction as the wind. In tlie morning of the 10th, having but little wind, we ])ut a
boat in the water, in which some of the officers went and shot several birds. These att'orded
us a fresh meal. They were of the peterel tribe, and such as are u.sually seen at any
distance from land. Indeed, neither birds nor any other thing was to be seen that could
give us the least hopes of finding any ; and therefore at noon the next day, being then in
the latitude of 47^ 51' S., longitude 122^ 12' W., and a little more than 2(K> leagues from
my track to Otaheite in 17<>0, I altered the course, and steered south-east with a fresh gale
at S.W. by W. In the evening, when our latitude was 48^ 22' S., longitude 121" 29' W.,
wo found the variation to be 2'^ M' £. ; which is the bast variation we had found without
the tropic. In the evening if *,i.o ne-\t day we found it to be 4^ 30' E. ; our latitude at
that time was 50° 5' S., longitude il9^,^ W.

Our course was now more southerly, till the evening of the 13th, when wo were in the
latitude of 53' 0' S., longitude 118*' 3' W. The wind being then at north-west, a strong
galo with a thick fog and rain, which made it unsafe to steer large, I hauled u)) south-west,
and continued this course till noon the next day, when our latitude was 56' 4' S., longitude
122' 1' W. The wind having veered to the north, and the fog continuing, I hauled to the
east, under courses and close-reefed topsails. Hut this sail we could not carry long ; for
before eight o'clock in the evening, the wind increased to a perfect storm, and obliged us to
lie-to, under the mizzen stay-sail, till the morning of the lOth, when the wind having a good
deal abated and veered to west, we set the courses, reefed top-sails, and stood to the south.
Soon after, the weather cleared up ; and in the evening wo found the latitude to be 50° 4H' S.,
longitude 110° 8' W. We continued to steer to the south, inclining to the cast, till the
18th, when we stood to the south-west with the wind at south-east, being at this time in
the latitude of (>1° 9' S., longitude 110° 7' W, At ten o'clock in the evening, it fell calm,
which continued till two the next morning, when a breeze sprung up at north, which soon
after increased to a fresh galo and fixed at N.E. With this we steered south till noon, on
the 20th, when, being now in the latitude of 02" 34' S., longitude 116^ 24' W., we were
again becalmed.

In this situation we had two ice islands in sight, one of which seemed to be as large as any
wo had seen. It could not be less than two hundred feet in height, and terminated in a peiik
not unlike the cupola of St. Paul's church. At this time, we had a great westerly swell,
which made it improbable that any land should lie between us and the meridian of 133^",
which was our longitude under the latitude we were now in, when we stood to the north.
In all this route, we had not seen the least thing that could induce us to think we were ever

! I

•I I

: I

;.. 'I

•'

't r

■kU

COOK'S 8KCON0 VOVAOK ROUND THE UOIILP.

Jan. 1774,

iiLt K rni .i> I..

in tlio ncifjlihourliood «f any lan<l. "NVc had, indi'i-d, frccincntly wen pioccs of 8i'a-Wff<l ;
l»ut tliif, I am wrU oiMtirvd, is no sign «if tlio vicinity of lun«i ; for wtt<l is sicn in every part
of the ocean. After a few iiours' calm, we j;ot a wind from S.K., but it was very unsettled,
an<l att<nded witii thick snow showers ; at length it fixed at .S. hy K. and wo stretched to
the vast. The wind hicw fresh, wau piercing culd, and attended with snow and sleet.
On the 22d, heing in the lati-
tude of <»2" .1' S., longitude _^
112" 24' W., we saw an ice "
island, an antarctic |)eterel,
several blue peterels, and sumo
other known birds ; but no
one thing that gave us the
least hopes of finding land.

On the 2!id, at noon, wu
were in the latitude of (i2" 22'
S., longitude lUf 24'. In the
afternoon, we ])assed an ice
island. The wind, which blew
fre>h, continued to veer to the
west ; and at eight o'clock the
next morning, it was to the
north of west, when I steered
S, by W. and ,S.S.W. At
this time we were in the lati-
tude of C>'.\" 20' S., longitude
lOO" 7' W., and had a great
sea from S.W. We continued

this course till noon the next day, the 2*>th, when we steered due south. Our latitude,
at this time, was 0.)" 24' S., longitude lOJ)" .31' W. ; the wind was at north; the weather
mild and not unpleasant ; and not a bit of ice in view. This we thought a little extra-
ordinary ; as it was but a mttntli before, and not quite two hundred leagues to the east,
that we were, in a manner, blocked up with large islands of ice, in this very latitude.
Saw a single piatadoe petercl, some blue peterels, and a few brown albatrosses. In
the evening, !;ei:tg under the same meridian, and in the latitude of (iri" 44' S., the variation
was 19" 27' E. ; but the next morning, in the latitude of 6(i" 2()' S., longitude the same
as before, it was only 10" 20' E. : probably the mean between the two is the nearest
the truth. At this time, we had nine small islands in sight ; and soon after, we came,
the third time, within the antarctic polar circle, in the longitude of 1(K)" .31' W, About
noon, seeing the appearance of land to the S.E., we immediately trimmed our sails and
stood towards it. iSoon after it disappeared, but we did not give it up till eight o'clock
the next morning, when we were well assured that it was nothing but clouds, or a fog-
bank; and then we resumed our course to the south, with a gentle breeze at N.E. attended
with a thick fog, snow, and sleet.

We now began to meet with ice islands more frequently tliJin before; and, in the latitude
of 01)" 38' S., longitude 108" 12' W., we fell in with a field of loose ice. As we began to be
in w.ant of water, I hoisted out two boats and took up as much .is yielded about ten tons.
This W.1S cold work ; but it was now familiar to us. As soon as wc had done, we hoisted
in the boats, and afterwards m.ade short boards over that p.irt of the sea we had, in some
measure, made ourselves acqu.iinted with. For we had now so thick a fog that we could
not see two hundred ycirds round us ; and as we knew not the extent of the loose ice, I
durst not steer to the south till wc had clear weather. Thus we spent the night, or rather
that part of the twenty-four hours which answered to night ; for wc had no darkness but
what was occasioned by fogs.

At four o'clock in the morning of the 20th, the fog began to clear awjiy ; and the diiy
l>ecoiuing clear and serene, wc again steered to the south with a gentle galo at N.E. and

Jan. 1774 .

Wft-Wfcd ;
every jtart

unaettleil,
IretclieJ to

nnJ flleet.

3ur liititiide,
the weather
little extra-
to the east,
cry latitude,
trosses. In
le variation
the same
the nearest
we eame,
W. About
ur sails ami
ight o'clcjck
lis, or a fog-
E. attended

the latitude
began to be
)ut ten tons.

we hoisted
lad, in some
lat we could

loose ice, I
it, or rather
larkness but

land the day

It N.E. and

Jas. 1774.

rOOKS SKCOM) VOV,\(JI<: UOINI) TIIK ^VOHLD.

44A

N.N.E. The .iriiition wa* found to be 2J 41' V.. This was in tlie latitude of («r l.V S.,
Iiiii^itudo \0H .*»' W. ; and, in the afteriuion, being in tlie same longitude, and in the
latitude of "JW "JlV S., it was 2t"Hl' 1'. Soon afttr, the sky Ixeanie elouded, and the air
v«'ry eidd. AVe continued our .'ourse to the xoutli, and passed a |)i<'ee of weed covered with
barnacles, which a brown albatross was picking off. At tin o'clock, we passed a very largo
ice-island ; it was not less than three or fnur miles in circuit. Several more being seeu
aheail, ami the weather becoming f"ggy, we hauled the wind to the northward ; but in less
than two hours, the weather cleared uj), and we again stood south.

On the M(Uh, Jit four o'clock in the morning, we perceived the clouds, over the horizon to
the south, to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, which we knew announced our
approach to field-ice. Soon after, it was seen from the topmast head ; and at eight o'clock,
we were close to its edge. It exten<led east and west, far beyoml the reach of our sight.
In the situation we were in, just the southern half of our horizon was illuminattd, by the
rays of light reflected from the ice, to a considerable height. Ninety-seven ice-hills were
distinctly seen within the field, besides those on the outside ; many of them viry large, and
looking like a ridge of mountains, rising one above another till they were lost in the clouds.
The outer, or northern edge of this inniu>nse field, 'vas eom)>osed of loose or broken ice
close jiacked together; so that it was not possible for anything to enter it. This was about
a mile broad ; within which was scdid ice in one continued compact body. It was rather
low and flat, (except the hills,) but seemed to im reasc in height, as you traced it to the
south; in which direction it extended beyond our sight. Such mountains of ice as these
were, I believe, never seen in the (ireeidand seas; at least, not that I v ver heard or read
of; so that we cannot draw a comparison between ihe ice here, and there. It must be
allow Lii that these prodigious ice mountains must add such additional weight lo the ice-
fields which inclose them, as cannot but make a great difference between the navigating
this icy sea and that of (ireenland.

I will not say it was impossible anywhere to get farther to the south; but the attempting
it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and what, I believe, no man in my
situation would have thought of. It was, indeed, my opinion, as well as the opinion of
most on board, th.it this ice extended (piite to the pole, or, jK-rhapg, joined to some land, to
which it had been fixed from the earliest time ; and that it is here, that is, to the south of
this parallel, where all the ice we find scattered up and down to the north is first fornu-d,
and afterwards bndten off by gales of wind, or other causes, ajul brought to the north l.y
the currents, which wo .ilways found to set in that direction in the high latitudes. As we
drew near this ice, ijomc ])enguins were heard, but none seen ; and but few other birds, or
any other thing, that could induce us to think any land was near. And yet I think there
must be some to the south behind this ice ; but if there is, it can afford no better retreat for
birds, or any otiier animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. I,
who had and>ition not only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far as it was
possible for man to go, was not sorry at meeting with this intenuj)tion ; as it, in some
nu'asure, relieved us ; at least, shortened the dangers and hardships inseparable from the
navig.ition of the southern polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch
farther to the south, no other reason need be assigned for my tacking, and standing back to
the north ; being at this tini'j in the latitude of 71" ^^' S., longitude KM!" iA' W.

It was happy for us that the weather was clear when we fell in with this ice, and that
we discovered it so soon as ^.-e did ; for we had no sooner tacked than we were involved in
a thick fog. The wind was at cast, and blew a fresh breeze ; so that wc were able to
return back over that space we had already made ourselves acquainted with. At noon the
merctiry in the thermometer stood at 32^", and we found the air exceedingly cold. The
thick fog continuing with showers of snow, gave a coat of ice to our rigging of near an inch
thick. In the afternoon of the next day the fog cleared away at intervals ; but the weather
was cloudy and gloomy, and the air excessively cold ; however, the sea within our horizon
was clear of ice.

Wc continued to stand to the north with the wind easterly till the afternoon, on the 1st
of February, when, falling in with some loose ice which had broken from an island to wind-

''W '■

' I

:l i

4i0

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOIll.D.

Kkh. 1774.

\Yar(l, wc hoisted out two boats, and having taken some on board, resumed our course to
the north and nortli-east with gentle breezes from the south-east, attended sometimes with
fair weatlier, and at other times with snow and sleet. On the 4th we were in the liititudo
of Gii" 42' S., longitude 99° 4 4 , The next day the wind was very unsettled both in strength
and position, and attended with snow and sleet. At length on the Oth, after a few hours'
calm, wc got a breeze at south, which soon after freshened, fixed at west south-west, and
was attended with snow and sleet.

I now came to a resolution to proceed to the north, and to spend the ensuing winter within
the tropic, if I met with no employment before I came there. I was now well satisfied no
continent was to be found in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south as to be
wholly inaccessible oa account of ice ; and that if one should be found in tlie Southern
Atlantic Ocean, it would be necessary to have the whole summer before us to exj)lore it. On
the other hand, upon a supposition that there is no land there, we undoubtedly might have
reached the Cape of Good Hope by April, and so have put an end to the expedition, so
far as it related to the finding a continent ; which indeed was the first object of the voyage.
But for me at this time to have quitted this Southern Pacific Ocean, with a good ship
expressly sent out on discoveries, a he.dtliy crew, and not in want either of stores or of
provisions, would have been betraying not only a want of perseverance, but of judgment, in
supposing the South Pacific Ocean to have been so well explored, that nothing remained to
be done in it. This, however, was not my opinion ; for although I had proved there was
no continent but what must lie far to the south, there remained, nevertheless, room for very
large islands in places wholly unexamined : and many of those which were formerly
discovered are but imperfectly explored, and their situations as imperfectly known. I was
besides of opinion that my remaining in this sea some time longer would be productive of
improvements in navigation and geography, as well as other sciences. I had several times
communicated my thoughts on this subject to Captain Furneaux ; but as it then wholly
depended on what wc might meet with to the south, I could not give it in orders without
running the risk of drawing us from the main object.

Since now nothing had happened to prevent me from carrying these views into execution,
my intention was first to go in search of the land, said to have been discovered by Juan
Fernandez, above a century ago, in about the latitude of 38° ; if I should fail in finding this
land, then to go in search of Easter Island or Davis's Land, whose situation was known
with so little certainty that the attempts lately made to find it had miscarried. I next
intended to get within the tropic, and then proceed to the west, touching at, and settling
the situations of such islands as wo might meet with till wo arrived at Otaheite, where it
was necessary I should stop to look for the Adventure. I had also thoughts of running as
far west as tlie Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo, discovered by Quiros, and which ^I. de
Bougainville calls the Great Cyclades. Quiros speaks of this land as being large, or lying
in the neighbourhood of large lands ; and as this was a point which Bougainville had neither
confirmed nor refut(;d, I thought it was worth clearing up. From this land my design was
to steer to the south, and so back to the cast, between the latitudes of TjO" and (K)" ; intend-
ing if possible to be the length of Cape Horn in November next, when we should have tlio
best part of the summer before us to explore the southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. Groat
as this design appeared to be, I, however, thought it possible to bo executed ; and when I
came to communicate it to the officers, I had the satisfaction to find that they all heartily
concurred in it. I should not do these gentlemen justice, if I did not take some opportunity
to declare that they always showed the utmost readiness to carry into execution, in tlio
most effectual manner, every measure I thought proper to take. Under such circumstances,
it is hardly necessary to say that the seamen were always obedient and alert ; and, on this
occasion, they were so far from wishing the voyage at an end, that they rejoiced at the
prospect of its being prolonged another year, and of soon enjoying the benefits of a milder
climate.

I now steered north, inclining to the cast, and in the evening we were overtaken by a
furious storm at west-south-west, attended with snow and sleet. It came so suddenly ujwn
U8, that before we could take in our sails, two old top-sails, whicli wo had bent to the yards,

K r

Fkii. 1774.

Fkb. 1774.

COOKS SKCOND VoYACJE IlOl XD THE WORLD.

447

r course to
etimcs with
tlie latitude
in strength
I few hours'
h-wcst, and

'inter within
satisfied no
»uth as to he
he Southern
plore it. On
nusht have
xpedition, so
F the voyage.
1 a cood ship
stores or of
judgment, in
' remained to
red there was
oom for very
ere formerly
lown. I was
productive of
several times
b then wholly
rders without

ito execution,
sred hy Juan
n finding this
n was known
ried. I next
and settling
eite, where it
of running as
which M. de
irge, or lying
e had neither
design was
(50" ; intcnd-
ould have the
Ocean. Great
and when I
y all heartily
e opportunity
icution, in the
ircumstances,
and, on this
joiced at the
ts of a milder

vertaken hy a
luddenly upon
to the yards,

were blown to pieces, and the other sails much damaged. The gale lasted, without the
least intermission, till the next morning, when it began to abate ; it however continued to
blow very fresh till noon on the 12th, when it ended in a calm. At this time we were in
the latitude of TjO" J 4' S., longitude 95° 18' W. Some birds being about the ship, we took the
advantage of the calm to put a boat in the water, and shot several birds, on which we feasted
the next day. One of these birds was of that sort which has been so often mentioned in this
journal, under the name of Port-Egmont hens. They are of the gull kind, about the size of
a raven, with a dark brown plumage, except the under side of each wing, where there
are some white feathers. The rest of the birds were albatrosses and sheerwaters.

After a few hours' calm, having got a breeze at north-west, we made a stretch to the
south-west for twenty-four hours ; in which route we saw a piece of wood, a bunch of weed,
and a diving pcterel. The wind having veered more to the west, made us tack and stretch
to the north till noon on the 14th, at which time we were in the latitude t)f 49" 32' S.,
longitude 9;"»" 11' W. AVe had now calms and light breezes succeeding each other till the
next morning, when the wind freshened at W.N.W., and was attended with a thick fog and
ilrizzling rain the three following diiys, during which time we stretched to the north,
inclining to the east, and crossed my track to Otaheite in 1701). I did intend to have kept
more to the west ; but the strong winds from that dircctiim put it out of my power.

On the 18th the wind veered to south-west, and blew very fresh, but was attended with
clear weather, which gave us an opportunity to ascertain our longitude by several lunar
observations made by Messrs. "Wales, Clerke, Gilbert, and Smith. The mean result of all
was 94" 19' 30" W. ; Mr. Kendal's watch, at the same time, gave 94" 46' W. ; our latitude
was 4.3" 53' S. The wind continued not long at south-west before it veered back to west
and west-north-west. As we advanced to tlie north we felt a most sensible change in the
weather. The 20th, at noon, we were in the latitude of 39" TiS' S., longitude 94= 37' "W.
The day was clear and pleasant, and I may say the only summer's day we had had since wo
left New Zealand. The mercury in the thermometer rose to G().

We still continued to steer to the north, as the wind remained in the old quarter j and
the next day, at noon, wc were in the latitude 37' 54' S., which, was the same that Juan
Fernandez's discovery is said to lie in. AVe, however, had not the least signs of any land
lying in our neighbourhood. The next day at noon we v.-ero in latitude 3G° 10' S., longitude
04' 50' W. Soon after, the wind veered to south-south-east, and enabled us to steer west-
south-west, which I thought the most probable direction to find the land of which wc were
in search ; and yet I had no hopes of succeeding, as we had a large hollow swell from the
same point. We, however, continued this course till the 25th, when the wind having veered
again round to the westward, I gave it up, and stood away to the north, in order to get
into the latitude of Easter Island ; our latitude at this time was 37° 52', longitude
101° 10' w.

I wag now well assured that the discovery of Juan Fernandez, if any such was ever
made, can be nothing but a small island ; ihere being hardly room for a large land, as will
fully appear by the tracks of Captain Wallis, Bougainville, of the Endeavour, and this of
the Resolution. Whoever wants to see an account of the discovery in question, will meet
with it in Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages to the South Seas. This gentleman places
it under the meridian of 90°, where I think it cannot be ; for M. de Bougainville seems to
have run dowr under that meridian, and we had now examined the latitude in which it is
said to lie, from the meridian of 94° to 101". It is not probable it can lie to the cast of 90";
because if it did, it must have been seen at one time or other by ships bound from the
northern to the southern parts of America. IMr. Pengrc. in a little treatise concerning the
transit of Venus, published in 1708, gives some account of land having been discovered by
the Spaniards in 1^14, in the latitude of 38', and 550 leagues from the coast of Chili, which
is in the longitude of 110" or 111° W., and within a degree or two of my track in the
Endeavour ; so that this can hardly be its situation. In short, the only probable situation
it can have must be about the meridian of 100" or 108° W. ; and then it can only bo a small
isle, ; s I have already observed.

I was now taken ill of the bilious colic, which was so violent as to confine mo to my bed ;

I ,!

^ U

l.»«!

I' I '

iii;;

III

Vi 3

r
I I

il( I

'i^

418

COOK'S SECOND VOVAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mahcii, 1774.

80 tliat the management of tlio ship was left to Mr. CVtopcr, tlic first officer, who conducted
Ijer very much to my sati!!faction. It was several days Ix-fore the most dangerous symptoms
of my disorder were removed ; during which time ^Ir. Patten, the surgeon, was to me not
only a skilful physician, but an affectionate nurse ; and I should ill deserve the care ho
bestowed on me, if I did not m.ike this public acknowledgment. When I began to recover,
a favourite dog belonging to Mr, Forster fell a sacrifice to my tender stoniacli. We had no
other fresh meat whatever on board ; and I could cat of this flesh, as well as broth made of
it, when I could taste nothing else. Thus I received nourishment and strength from food
which would have made most people in Europe sick ; so true it is, that necessity is governed
by no law.

On the 28th, in the latitude of 33° 7' S., longitude 102= 33' W., we began to see flying-
fish, egg-birds, and noddies, which are said not to go above sixty or oiglity leagues from
land ; but of this we have no certainty. Xo one yet knows to what distance any of tho
oceanic birds go to sea ; for my own part, I do not Wlieve there is one in tlie whole tribe
that can be relied on, in pointing out the vicinity of land.

In tiie latitude of 30° 30' S., longitude 101'' 4i)' W., we began to see men-of-war birds.
In the latitude of 29° 44', longitude 100° 4.5' W., we had a calm for near two days togetiier,
during which time the heat was intolerable ; but what ought to be remarked, was a very
great swell from tho south-west. On the 6th of March, the calm was succeeded by an
easterly wind, with which we steered north-west till noon the 8th, when, being in the latitude
of 27° 4' S., longitude 103° 58' W., we steered west, meeting every day with great numbers
of birds, such as men-of-war, tropic and egg birds, noddies, sheerwaters, &c. ; and once wo
passed several i)ieces of sponge, and a small dried leaf not unlike a bay one. Soon after, wo
saw a sea-snake, in every respect like those we had before seen at the tropical islands. We
also saw plenty of fish ; but were such bad fishers, that we caught only four albacorcs,
■which w^ere very acceptable, to me especially, who was just recovering from my late
illness.

CHAPTER VII. — SEQUEL OF THE PASSAGE FROM NEW ZEALAND TO EASTER ISLAND, AND
TRANSACTIONS THERE, WITH AN ACCOINT OF AX EXPEDITION TO DISCOVER THE INLAND
PART OP THE COUNTRY, AND A DESCRIPTION OF SOME OF THE SURPRISING GIGANTIC
STATUES FOUND IN THE ISLAND.

At eight o'clock in the morning on the 11th, land was seen, from the mast-head, bearing
west, and at noon from the deck, extending from W. f X. to W. by S. about twelve lea,gucs
distant. I made no doubt that this was Davis's Land, or Easter Island, as its appearance
from this situation corresponded very well with Wafer's account ; and we expected to have
seen the low sandy isle that Davis fell in with, which would have been a confirmation ; l)ut
in this we were disappointed. At seven o'clock in the evening, the island bore from N. (52°
W. to N. 87° W., about five leagues distant ; in which situation we sounded, without find-
ing ground, with a line of a hundred and forty fathoms. Here we spent the night, having
alternately light airs and calms, till ten o'clock the next morning, when a breeze sjirung
up at west-south-west. With this we stretched in for the land; and, by the help of our
glass, discovered people, and some of those colossian statues or idols mentioned by the
authors of Roggewcin's Voyage.* At four o'clock in the afternoon, we were half a league
south-south-east, and north-north-west of the north-cast point of the island ; and, on sound-
ing, found thirty-five fathoms, a dark sandy bottom. I now tacked and endeavoured to get
into what appeared to be a bay, on the west side of the point, or south-east side of tlio
isl.and ; but before this could be accomplished, night came upon us, and we stood on and oft'
under the land till the next morning, having soundings from seventy-five to a hundred and
ten fathoms, the same bottom as before.

On tho I3th, about eight o'clock in the morning, the wind, which had been variable most
part of the night, fixed at south-cast and blew in squalls, accompanied with rain, but it was

* See Dalryniplc's C'oUccliim of Voyigct, vol. ii.

Iakcii, 177-4.

MAncii, 1774. COOKS SKCOND VOYACJK HOUND TIIK WOULD.

440

10 conducted
us symptoms
,8 to me not
I the care lie
n to recover,
We had no
rotli made of
[th from food
Y is governed

o see flying-
Icagncs from
:e any of tlia
3 whole tribe

of-war birds,
lays together,
i, was a very
ceeded by an
in the latitude
rreat numbers
; and once we
Soon after, wo
islands. We
uur albacorcs.
From my late

ISLAND, AND

THE INLAND

iING GIGANTIC

lead, bearing
Avelve lej,gucs
its appearance
lected to have
irmation ; i)ut
from N. (52"
without find-
night, having
)reezo sjirung
le help of our
ioned by the
half a league
nd, on souud-
voured to get
st side of the
lod on and off
hundred and

variable most
lin, but it was

not long before the weather became fair. As the wind now Mew rJL'ht on the south ea.*t
shore, which does not att'ord that shelter I at first tlioiight, I rcsolveil to look for anelioriigo
on the west and nortii-west sides of tlic island. With tliis viiw, I bore up round the south
point, off which lie two small islets, the one nearest the j)oiiit high .iml peaked, and the
other low and flattisii. After getting round the j.oint, and coniinfj before a sandy beach,
we found soundings, thirty and forty fathoms, sandy rrround. and about one mile from the
shore. Here a canoe conducted by two men came off' to us. They brought with them a
bunch t)f plantains, whicli they sent into the ship by a rope, and then they returned ashore.
This gave us a good opinion of the isiaiulers, and inspired us with hoj>es of getting some
refresliments, which we were in great want of.

I continued to range along the coast till we opened the northern point of the isle witliout
seeing a better anehoring-place than the one we had passed. We tlierefore tacked, and plied
back to it; and, in the mean time, sent away the master in a boat to sound the coast, lie
returned about five o'clock in the evening, and soon after we came to an anchor, in thirty-
six fathoms w.ater, before the sandy beach above mentioned. As the master drew near the
shore with the boat, one of the natives swam off to lnr, and insisted on coming aboard the
ship, where he remained two nights and a day. The first thing he did after coming aboard,
was to measure the length of the ship, by fathoming her from tiie taffrail to the stern ; and
as he counted the fathoms, we observed tliat he called tiie numbers by the same names that
they do .•>.! Ot-iheite : nevertheless, his language was in a manner wholly unintelligible to
all of '.IS.

Having anchored too near the edge of the bank, a fresh breeze from the land, about three
o'clock the next morning, drove us off' it ; on which the anchor w.as heaved up, and sail
made to regain the bank again. While the ship was plying in, I went .ashore, accompanied
by some of the gt-ntlemen, to see what the island was likely to afford us. We hmded at the
sandy be.acli, where some hundnds of the natives were assembled, and who v.ere so impa-
tient to see us, that many of tliem swam off' to meet the boats. Not one oi ♦hem had so
much as a stick or weaj)on of any sort in their hands. After distributing a few trinkets
amongst them, we made signs for sometliiiig to eat ; on which they brought down a few
potatoes, ])!antains, and sugar-canes, and exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, and
pieces of cloth. We juTsently discovered that they were as expert thieves, and as tricking
in their exclianges, as any people we had yet met with. It was with mhhc difficulty wo
could keep the hats on our heads, but hardly possible to keep any thin ; our pockets, not
even what themselves had sold us ; for they would watch every oj>i>ortunity to snatcl: it from
us, so that wc sometimes bought the same thing two or three times over, and after all did
not get it.

Before I sailed from England, I was informed that a Spanish ship had visited this isle in
17(5J). Some signs of it were seen among the people now about us ; one man had a pretty
good broad-brimmed European hat on, another had a grego jacket, and another a red silk
liandkerchief. They also seemed to know tlie use of a musket, and to stand in much awe of
it ; but this they probably learnt from Roggewein, who, if we are to believe tiie authors
of that voyage, left them sufficient tokens.

Near the place where we landed were some of those statues before mentioned, which I
shall describe in a other place. Tiie country appeared barren and without wood ; there
were, nevertheless, several plantations of ]iotatoes, jilantains, and sugar-canes ; we also saw
some fowls, and found a well of brackish water. As these were articles we were in want
of, and as the natives seemed not unwilling to ])art with them, I resolved to stay a day or
two. With this view, I rei)aired on board, and brought the ship to an anchor in thirty-
two fathoms water ; the bottom, a Hue dark sand. Our station was about a mile from the
nearest shore, the south point of a small bay, in the bottom of which is the samly beach
before mentioned, being east south-east distant one mile and a half. The two rocky islets
lying off" the south jjoiut of the island were just shut behind a point to the north of ti;eni ;
they bore S. f| W. four miles distant, and the ot'.er extreme of the island bore N. 2.V K.
distant about six miles. Uut the best mark for tliis anehoring-place is the beach ; beeaiisu
it is the only one on this side the island. In the afternoon we got on board a few casks

Ci o

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i
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■I
If

, I

460

COOK S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mai:< ii, 1774.

■I
I

I !

of water, and opened a trade witli the natives for such tilings as they had to dispose of.
Some of the jjcntlenicn also made an excursion into the country to see what it produced, and
returned again in the evening, with the h)ss only of a hat, whicii one of the natives snatched
ott" the liead of one of the party.

Early next morning, I sent Lieutenants I'iekersgill and Ivlgecumhe with a jiart) of nion,
accompanied hy several of the gentlemen, to examine the country. As I was not sutticientiy
recovered from my late illness to make one of the party, I was obliged to content myself with
remaining at the Ianding-]>lace among the natives. We h.ad at one time a pretty brisk trade
with them for jiotatoes, which we observed they dug up out of an adjoining i)lantation ; but
this traific, which was very advantageous to us, was soon i)ut a stoj) to bj- the owner (as wo
supposed) of the jilantation coming down, and driving all the jxojde out of it. By this wo
concluded that he had been robbed of his property, and that they were not less scru])ulou9
of stealing from one another than from us, on whom they jiractised every little fraud they
could think of, and generally with success ; for we no sooner detected them in one, than
they found out another. About seven o'clock in the evening, the party I had sent into the
country returned, after having been over the greatest ]iart of the island.

They left the beach about nine o'clock in the morning, and took a path which led across
to the south-east side of the island, followed by a great crowd of the natives, who jtressod
much upon them. But they had not proceeded far, before a middle-aged man, punctured
from head to foot, and his face jwinted with a sort of white pigment, ai)peared with a spear
in his hand, and walked alongside of them, making signs to his countrymen to keep at a
distance, and not to molest our people. When ho had pretty well effected this, he hoisted
a piece of white cloth on his spear, placed himself in the front, and led the way with his
ensign of peace, as they understood it to be. For the greatest ))art of the distance across the
ground had but a barren ajjpearance, being a dry hard clay, and everywhere covered with
stones ; but, notwithstanding this, tiiere were several large tracks ])laiited with potatoes, and
some ]dantain walks, but they saw no fruit on any of the trees. Towards the highest ])art
of the south end of the i-^land, the soil, which was a fine red earth, seemed much better, bore
a longer grass, and was not covered with sU)nes as in the otlier j>arts ; but here they saw
neither house nor plantation.

On the east side, near the sea, they met with three platforms of stone- work, or rather the
ruins of them. On each had stood four of those large statues ; but they were all fallen down
from two of them, au'' also one from tlie third ; all except one were broken by the fall, or
in some measure defaced. ]Mr. Wales measured this one, andAumd it to be fifteen feet in
length, and six feet broad over tiie shoulders. Each statue had on its head a large cylindric
stone of a red celour, wrought perfectly round. Tlie one they measured, whicli was not by
far the largest, was fifty-two inches high, and sixty-six in diameter. Iri some, the upper
corner of the cylinder was taken off in a sort of concave quarter-round, but in others the
cylinder was entire.

From this place they followed the direction of the coast to the north-east, the man with
the flag still leading the way. For about three miles they found the country very barren,
and in some places stript of the soil to ihe bare rock, which seemed to be a poor sort of iron
ore. Bej'ond this they came to the most fertile i)art of the island they saw, it being inter-
spersed with plantations of i)()tatoes, sugar-canes, and ])lantain trees, and these not so much
encumbered with stones as those which they had seen before j but they could find no water
except what the natives twice or thrice brought them, which, though brackish and stinking,
was rendered acceptable by the extremity of their thirst. They also passed some huts, the
owners of which met them with roasted i)otatoes and sugarcanes, and jdacing theniselves
ahead of the foremost of the ]iarty, (for they marched in a line in order to have the benefit
of the )\ath,) gave one to each man as he passed by. They observed the same method in
distributing the water which they brought ; and were particidarly careful that the foremost
did not drink too much, lest none should 1 < left for tlie hindmost. But at the very time
these were relieving the thirsty and hungry, there were not wanting others who endeavoured
to steal from them the very things which had been given theuj. At Last, to prevent worse
eoiiseqiiences, they were obliged to fire a load of small shot at one who was so audacious as

,i;(ii, 1774.

dispose of.
hiccil, and
s snatclicd

rtj of nn^:i,
surticifiitly
lyself with
brisk trade
ntion ; but
ner (as wo
By this wo
scni))ul(ius
fraud tlicy
I one, than
lit into tlic

I led across
klio ])ressod
, punctured
ith a spear
I keep at a
, he hoisted
\y with his
e across the
ivered with
statoes, and
lighest part
better, bore
e they saw

rather tlic

faUen down

the fall, or

teen feet in

TO cylindric

was not by

the upper

others tlio

man with
ery barren,
sort of iron
)eing inter-
ot so much
d no water
d stinking,
c huts, the
themselves
the benefit

method in
ic foremost

very time

deavoured
rent worse

dacious as

M.viicii, 1774. COOKS SI'XOND VOVACiK ROUND TIIK WORLD.

4.51

to snatch from one of tlie men the bag which contained everything they carried witli them.
The shot hit him on the back ; on wliich lie dropped the bng, ran a little way, ami then fell ;
but he afterwards got up and walked ; and what became of liim they knew not, mir whether
he was niueh wounded. As tliis atVair occasioned some delay, and (Irew the natives together,
they presently saw the man who had hitherto leil the way, and one or two more cimiing
running towards them ; but insteail of stopping when they came u]>, they continued to run
round them, repeating in a kind manner, a few words, until our peoi>le set forwards again.
Then their old guide lioi(<ted his flag, leading the way as before, and none ever attempted to
steal from them the wiiole day afterwards.

Am they ]iassed along, they observed on a hill a number of peojde collected together, some of
whom had spears in their hands ; but, on being called to by their ciiuntrymaii, they dispersed ;
except a few, amongst whom was one seemingly of some note. lie was a stout, well-
made man, with aline open countenance; his face was painted, iiis body punctured, and ho
wore a better I la hou, or cloth, than the rest. He saluted them as he came up, by stretching
out his arms with both hands 'lenched, lifting them over his head, ojiening tliciii wide, and
then letting them fall gradually down to his sides. To this man, whom they mulerstond to
be the chief of the island, their otlier friend gave; his white Hag ; and he gave it to another,
who carried it before them the remainder of the day.

Towards the eastern end of tiie island, they met with a well whose water was jierfectly
fresh, being considerably above the level of the sea ; but it was dirty, owing to the filthiness
or cleanliness (call it wliich you will) of the natives, who never go to drink without washing
theiihelves all over as soon as they have done ; and if ever so many of them are together, tho
first leaps right into the middle of the hole, -drinks, and washes himself without the least
ceremony ; after which another takes his ))lace and does the same.

They observed that this side of the island was full of those gigantic statues so often
mcntionetl ; some placed in groups on platforms of masonry ; others single, fixed only in the
earth, and that not deep ; and these latter are in general much larger than the others.
Having measured one which had fallen down, they found it very near twenty-seven feet long,
and njjwards of eight feet over the breast or shoulders ; and yet this api)eared considerably
short of tho size of one they saw standing ; its sh.iile, a little past two o\loek, being
sufficient to shelter all the party, consisting of near thirty persons, from the rays of the sun.
Here they stopped to dine ; after which they repaired to a hill, from whence they saw all
the east and north shores of the isle, on which they could not see either bay or creek fit even
for a boat to land in, nor the least signs of fresh wat'T. "What the natives brought them
here was real salt water ; but they observed that some of them drank i)retty plentifully of
it ; so far will necessity and custom get the better of nature ! On this account, they were
obliged to return to the last- mentioned well; where, after having quenched their thirst, they
directed their route eicross the island towards the ship, as it was now four o'clock.

In a small hollow on the highest ])art of the island, they met with several such cylinders
as are placed on the heads of the statues. ISome of these appeared larger than any they had
seen before ; but it was now too late to sloj) to measure any of them. jMr. Wales, from
whom I had this information, is of o])inion that there had been a quarry here, whence these
.-ones had formerly been dug, and that it would have been no difficult matter to roll them
down the hill after they were formed. I think this a very reasonable conjecture, and have
no doubt that it has been so. On the declivity of the mountain, towards the wffit, they met
with another well ; but the water was a very strong mineral, had a thick green scum on the
top, and stunk intolerably. Necessity, however, obliged some to drink of it ; but it soon
maile them so sick, that they threw it up the same way it went down.

In all this excursion, as well as the one made the preceding day, only two or three shrubs
were seen. The leaf and seed of one (called by the natives Torruiindo) were not much
unlike those of the common vetch ; but tlie i)od was more like that of a tamarind in its size
and shajio. The seeds have a disagreeable bitter taste ; and the natives, when they saw our
people chew them, mado signs to spit them out ; from whence it was concluded that they
think them poisonous. The wood is of a reddish colour, and j)retty hard and heavy ; but
very crooked, small, and short, not exceeding six or seven feet in height. At the south-west

G(i 2

M-

■ <

I '

•

452

COOK'S SECOND VOVAGE ROUND Til P: WORLD. Mahcii, 1J74.

i '

corner of tlie isluiul, tlicy found anotlier small silirnb, wlioso wood was white and brittle, and
in sonic nuasnrc, as also its leaf, resenihliiifj the asli. Tlicy also saw in several j)laee8 tlie
(Halieitean cloth plant ; but it ivas poor and weak, and not above two and a half feet high
at most. Tliey saw not an animal of any sort, and but very fiw birds ; nor indeed anything
which can induce ships that arc not in the utmost distress to touch at this island.

This account of the excursion 1 had from Mr. Pickersgill and Mr. Wales, men on whose
veracity I could depend ; and, therefore, I determined to leave the islanil the next morning,
since nothing was to be obtained that could make it worth my while to stay longer ; for the
water which we had sent on board was not much better than if it had been taken up out
of the sea. We had a calm till ten o'clock in the nu)rniiig of the Kkh, when a breeze si)rung
up at west, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, which lasted about an hour. The
weather then clearing up, we got under sail, stood to sea, aiul kept jdying to and fro, while
an officer was sent on shore with two boats, to ])urchase such refreshments as the natives
might have brought down ; for I jiulged this would be the case, as they knew nothing of our
sailing. The event proved that I was not mistaken ; for the boats made two trips before
night : when we hoisted them in, and made sail to the north-west with a light breeze at
north north east.

CHAPTER VIII. — A DI-SrHIPTIOX OP THE ISLAND, ITS PRODUCK, SITUATION, AND INIIAllIT-

AXTS ; TUEIR MANNKUS AND flSTO.MS. CONJECTURES CONCERNING THEIR C.OVERN.MENT,

RELIGION, AND OTHER SUUJ'ECTS J WITU A MORE I'AHTICELAR ACCOUNT OP THE
GIGANTIC STATUES.

I SHALL now give some farther account of this island, which is undoubtedly the same that
Admiral Roggewein touched at in April 17^-, although the description given of it by the
authors of that voyage does by no means agree with it now. It mayalso I ihe same that was
seen by Captain Davis in KWK! ; for when seen from the east, it answers very well to Wafer's
description, as I have before observed. In short, if this is not the land, his discovery cannot
lie far from the coast of America, as this latitude has been well explored from the meridian
of }5(H to 1 10^. Captain Carteret carried it much farther, but his track seems to have been
a little too far south. Had I found fresh water. I intended spending some days looking for
the low sandy isle Davis fell in with, which would have determined the point ; but as I did
not find water, and had a long run to make before I was assured of getting any, and being
in want of refreshments, I declined the search, as a small delay might have been attended
with bad consequences to the crew, many of thein beginning to be more or less attected with
the scurvy.

No nation need contend for the honour of the discovery of this island, as there can be few
places which aft'ord less convenience for shipping than it does. Here is no safe anchorage, no
wood for fuel, nor any fresh water worth taking on board. Nature has been exceedingly
sparing of her favours to this spot. As everything must be raised by dint of labour, it
cannot be supposed the inhabitants plant much more than is sufficient for themselves ; and
as they are but few in number, they caimot have much to spare to supply the wants of
visitant strangers. The produce is sweet potatoes, yams, taraoreddy-root, plantains, and
sugar-canes, all pretty good, the i)otatoes especially, which are the best of the kind I ever
tasted. Gourds they have also ; but so very few, that a cocoa-nut shell was the most
valuable thing we could give them. They have a few tame fowls, such as cocks and hens,
sni.all but well tasted. They have also rats, which it seems they eat ; for I saw a man
with some dead ones in his hand, and he seemed imwilling to part with them, giving me
to understand they were for food. Land-birds there were hardly any, and sea-birds but
few ; these were, men-of-war, tropic, and egg-birds, noddies, tern, &c. The coast seemed
not to abound with fish ; at least we could catch none witii hook and line, and it was
but very little we saw amongst the natives.

Such is the produce of Easter Island, or Davis's Land, which is situated in the latitude
of 27^ .5' 30 " S , longitude 109° 4()' 20" W. It is about ten or twelve leagues in circuit,
hath a hilly and stony surface, and an iron-bound bhorc. The hilla are of such a height as

,itcii, li74.

Mahcii, 1774. COaKVS SRCOND VOVAOK ROfTNTD THE WORLD.

45.T

iiittle, and

]>liico8 tlie

if fiet liigli

il iiiiythiiig

1 on wliosc
:t morning,
or ; for tlio
ken up out
L'l'zo sprung
lour. Tlie
1 fro, wliiio
tlic natives
hing of our
trips before
it breeze at

D IXIIAltlT-
>VKU.N.MKNT,
<T OP THE

ic same that

)f it by the

luo tbat was

II to Wafer's

ivery cannot

lie meridian

liave been

looking for

mt as I did

and being

en attended

ffccted witii

can be few

choragc, no

exceedingly

if labour, it

iclves ; €and

e wants of

ntains, and

ind I ever

.s the most

and hens,

law a man

giving nic

(a-birds but

ast seemed

and it was

(he latitude

in circuit,

height as

to bo seen fifteen or sixteen leagues. Off the south end are two rocky islets lying near tlio
shore. The north and east points of the island rise directly from tlie sea to a consiilcrablo
height ; between them, on th(! south-east side, tlie shore forms an open bay, in which I
believe the Dutch anchored. We anchored, as hath i)e('n alnaily mentioned, on the west
side of the island, three miles to the north of the soiitli jioiiit, with the sandy beach bearing
east- south-east. This is a very good road with easterly winds, but a dangerous one with
westerly, as the other on the south-east side must be with easterly winds.

For this and other bail accommodations already mentioned, nothing but necessity will
induce any one to touch at this isle, unless it can he done without going much out of the
way * ; in which case touching here may he advantageous, as the peojile willingly and
readily jiart with such refreshments as they have, and at an easy rate. We certainly received
great benefit from the little we got ; but few ships can come here without being in want of
water, and this w.-'ut cannot he here supplied. The little we took on hoard could not be
made use of; it being only salt water which had filtrated through a stony beach into a stono
well. This the natives had made for the purpose, a little to the southward of the sandy
beach so often mentioned, and the water ebbed and flowed into it with the tide.

The inhabitants of this island do not seem to exceed six or seven hundred souls ; and
above two-thirds of those we saw were males, Thej' either have but few females among
them, or else many were restrained from making their appearance during our stay ; for though
we saw nothing to induce us to believe the men were of a jealous disjiosition, or the women
afraid to a]>pear in public, something of this kind was probably the case. In colour,
features, and language, they bear such affinity to the people of the more western isles, that
no one will doubt that they have had the same origin. It is extraordinary that the same
nation should have spread themselves over all the isles in this vast ocean, from New Zealand
to this island, which is almost one-fourth part of the circamferencc of the globe. ]Many of
them have now no other knowledge of each other than what is preserved by antiquated
tradition ; and they have by length of time bccimie, as it were, different nations, each having
adopted some peculiar custom or habit, &c. Nevertheless, a careful observer will soon see
the affinity each has to the other.

In general, the people of this isle arc a slender race. I did not see a man that would
measure six feet ; so far are they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's
voj-age asserts, 'i'hey arc brisk and active, have good features, and not disagreeable counte-
nances ; are friendly and hospitable to strangers, i)ut as much addicted to pilfering as any of
their neighbours. I'attooiiii/, or puncturing the skin, is much used here. The men are
marked from head to foot, with figures all nearly alike; only some give them one direction,
and some another, as fancy leads. The women are but little punctured ; red and white paint
is an ornament with t/wm, .is .also with the men ; the former is made of turmeric ; but what
composes the latter I know not. Their clothing is a piece or two of quilted cloth .about six-
feet by four, or a ni.at. One piece wrapped round their loins, and another over their shoulders,
m.akc a complete dress. But the men, for the most part, .arc in a manner n.aked, wearing
nothing but a slip of cloth betwixt their legs, e.acli end of which is fastened to a cord or belt
they wciir round the waist. Their cloth is made of the same m.ateri.als as .at Otaheite, viz.
of the bark of the cloth-plant ; but as they have but little of it, our Otaheitean cloth, or
indeed any sort of it, came here to a good market.

Their hair, in general, is bl.ack ; the women wear it long, and sometimes tied up on the
crown of the head ; but the men wear it .and their be.ards cropped short. Their head-dress
is a round fillet adorned with feathers, and a straw bonnet something like a Scotch one ; the
former, I believe, being chiefly worn by the men, and the latter by the women. Both men
and women have very large holes, ornathcr slits, in their ears, extendcnl to near three inches
in length. They sometimes turn this slit over the upper p.art, and then the ear looks as if
the fl.ap was cut off. The chief ear ornaments are the white down of feathers, and rings, which
they wear in the inside of the hole, made of some elastic substance, rolled up like a watch-

• The disailvantnges above mcntioiu'd arc Biicli a8 to loiu niissionarics liave not tiitlicrto attempted tlicir roii-
liiive prevented to t'lis day any but tlie most casual inter- version, and by tbc later accounts tlie island appears to bo
course between tlio natives and Kuropeans ; even the zea- in inucli tbc same condition as in 1 774. — Ed.

11 !!l

I '■

,!M'

l*f

" 1

451

COOKS SECOND- VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Maiicii, 1774.

;i II

sprinp. I jiulgoil tliis was to keep the hole at its utmost extension. I do not remember
seeinj; tliciii wtar any otlier ornaments, excepting amulets made of bono or shells. As
liarnile!-s and friendly as these people seem to be, they are not without offensive weapons,
such as short wooden clubs and ppears ; which latter are crooked sticks about six feet long,
armed at one end with pieces of llint. They have also a weapon made of wood, like the
Paloo jHitiM of New Zealand.

Their houses arc low miserable huts, constructed by setting sticks upright in the ground,
at six or eight feet distance, then bending them towards each other, and tying them
together at the top, forming thereby a kind of Gothic arch. The longest sticks arc placed
in the middle, and shorter ones each way, and at less distance asunder ; by which means the
building is highest and broadest in the middle, and lower and narrower towards each end.
To these are tied others horizontally, and the whole is thatched over with leaves of sugar-
cane. The door- way is in the middle of one side, formed lik? a porch, and so low and narrow
as just to admit a man to enter upon all-fours. The largest house I saw was about sixty
feet long, eight or nine feet high "n the middle, and three or four at each end ; its breadth at
these parts was nearly equal to i . height. Some have a kind of vaulted houses built with
stone, and partly under ground ; uut I never was in one of these.

I saw no lious( hold utensils amongst them except gourds, and of these but very few. They
were extravagantly fond of cocoa-nut shells ; more so than of anything we could give them.
They dn js their victuals in the same manner as at Otaheite ; th.it is, with hot stones in an
oven or hole in the ground. The straw or to])s of sugar-cane, plantain heads, &c. serve them
for fuel to heat the stones. Pl.lntains, which require but little dressing, they roast under
fires of straw, dried grass, &c., and whole races of them are ripened or roasted in this manner.
We frequently saw ten or a dozen, or more, such fires in one place, and most commonly in
the mornings and evenings.

Not more than three or four canoes were seen on the whole island ; and these very mean,
and built of many pieces sewed together with small lino. They are about eighteen or twenty
feet long, head and stern carved or raised a little, arc very narrow, and fitted with out-
riggers. They do not seem capable of carrying above four persons, and are by no nieans fit
f jr any distant navig ition. As small and as mean as these canoes were, it was a matter of
■wonder to us where they got the wood to build them with ; for in one of them was a board
six or eight feet long, fourteen inches broad at one end, and eight at the other ; whereas wo
did not sec a stick on the island which would have made a board half this size ; nor, indeed,
was there another piece in the whole canoe half so big.

There are two ways by which it is possible they may have got this large wood : it might
have been left here by the Spaniards ; or it might have been driven on the shore of the island
from some distant land. It is even possible that there may be some land in the neighbour-
hood from whence they might have got it. We, however, saw no signs of any ; nor could
we get the least information on this head from the natives, although we tried every method
we could think of to obtain it. We were almost as unfortunate in our inquiries for the
proper or native name of the island. For, on comparing notes, I foimd we had got three
different names for it, viz. Tamareki, Whyhu, and Teajiy. Without ]iretending to say
which, or whether any of them is right, I shall only observe, that the last was obtained by
Oedidee, who understood their language much better than any of us ; though even he under-
stood it but very imperfectly.

It appears by the account of Roggewein's voyage, that these people had no better vessel
than when he first visited them. The want of materials, and not of genius, seems to be the
r'-ason why they have made no improvement in this art. Some pieces of carving were found
amongst them, both well designed and executed. Their plantations are prettily laid out by
line, but not inclosed by any fence ; indeed, they have nothing for this purpose but stones.
I J tve no doubt that all these plantations are private property, and that there are here, as
at Otaheite, chiefs (which they call Anckes) to whom these plantations belong. But of tlio
power or authority of these chiefs, or of the government of these people, I confess myself
quite ignorant.

Nor are we better acquainted with their religion. The gigantic statues so often mentioned

f!f

incii, 1774.

remember
ilu'lls. As
c weapons,
ic feet long,
)d, like the

the ground,
tying them
s arc placed
1 means the
s each end.
es of sugar-
and narrow
about sixty
s breadth at
s built with

J' few. Tlicy
i give them,
stones in an
r. serve them
roast under
tills manner,
lommonly in

! very mean,
en or twenty
d with out-
no means fit
a matter of
was a board
whereas wo
nor, indeed,

id : it might

of the island

ueighbour-

; nor could

cry method

iries for the

id got three

ding to say

obtained by

n he under-

jetter vessel

lis to be the

were found

laid out by

but stones.

are here, as

But of the

nfess myself

i mentioned

Mahcii, 1774. COOK'S SKCOM) VOYAC.K ROUXD TFIK WOIUJ).

400

are not, in my opinion, looked upon as idols by the present inhabitants, whatever they
might have been in the days of tlie Duteli ; at h'ust, I saw nothing that eould induce nic to
think so. On the contrary, I rather snpiiose that they are hurying-places for certain tribes
or families. I, as well as some others, saw a liuuian skeleton lying in one of the i)Iatfurins,
just covered with stones. Some of these platforms of masonry are thirty or forty feet long,
twelve or sixteen broad, and from three to twelve in height ; wliieli last in some measure
dejiends on the nature of the ground. J''or th(>y are geiu-raily at the brink of the bank facing
the sea, so that this face may be ten or twelve feet or more high, ami the other may not be
above three or four. They are built, or rather faced, with hewn stones of a very large size ;
and the workmanship is not inferior to the best plain piece of masonry we have in l']iiglaml.
They use no sort of cement; yet tlie joints are exc. edingly close, and the stones morticed
and tenanted one into anotluT, in a very artful maimer. The side walls are not perpendicu-
lar, but inclining a little inwards, in the same manner that breast-works, ike, are built iu
Europe : yet had not all this care, pains, and sagacity been able to preserve these curious
structures from the ravages of all-devouring time. The statues, or .at least many of them,
arc erected on these platforms, which serve as foundations. They are, as near as we could
judge, about h.alf hnigth, ending in a sort of stump at the bottom, on which they stand. The
workm.anship is rude, but not bad ; nor are the features of tlie face ill formed, the nose and
chin in jiarticular ; but the ears are long beyond proportion ; ami, as to the bodies, /uere is
lianlly anything like a liuman figure abimt them.

I had an opportunity of examining only two or three of these statues, which arc near the
landing-place ; and they were of a grey stone, seemingly of the same sort as that with which
the platforms were built, lint some of the gentlemen who travelU'd over the island, and
examined many of them, were of oj)inion that the stone of which they were maile was
different from any other they saw on the island, and h.ad much the appearance of being
factitious. We could hardly conceive how these islanders, wholly unacquainted with any
mechanical power, could raise such stujiendous figures, and afterwards place the largo
cylindric stones, before mi-ntioned, uptm their heads. The only method I can conceive, is
by raising the upjier end by little and little, siipjiorting it by stones as it is raised, and
building about it till they got it erect , thus a sort of r.iount, or scaffolding, would be made,
upon which they might roll the cylinder, and i)laee it upon the head of the statue, and then
the stones might be removed from about it. But if the stones arc factitious, the statues
might have been put together on the place in their present jiosition, and the cylinder put on
by building a mount round them as above mentioned. But, let them have been made and
set up, by this or any other method, th(;y must have been a work of immense time, and
sufficiently show the ingenuity and perseverance of the islanders in the ago in which they
were built ; for the present inhabitants have most certainly had no h.ind iu them, as they do
not even repair the foundations of those which arc going to decay. They give different
names to them, such as Gotomoara, Marapate, Kanaro, Gowaytoo-goo, Matta ]\Iatta, &e.
&c., to which they sometimes prefix the word JMoi, and sometimes annex Areckec. Tho
latter signifies chief, and the former, burying, or sleeping-place, as well as we could under-
stand. Besides the monuments of antiquity, which were jiretty numerous, and nowhere
but on or near the sea-coast, there were many little liea]>s of stones piled uj) in different
places, along the coast. Two or three of the ui)perinost stones in each j)ilc were generally
white ; perliaps always so, when the i)ile is complete. It will hardly be doubted that these
piles of stone had a meaning. Probably they might mark the place where people had been
buried, and serve instead of the large statues.

The working-tools of these people are but very mean, \ind, like those of all the other
islanders we have visited in tliis ocean, made of stone, bone, shells, &c. They set but
little value on iron, or iron tools, which is the more extraordinary as they know their use ;
but the reason may be their having but little occasion for them.

■}•:<

urn

iii i

iffi'

i;i

i i

, 1

■ !

4a«

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. Ai-mi^ 1774.

,!!.

]■'. ■

CHAPTER IX. — TIIF. I'ASSAOE FHOM RASTER ISLAND TO THE MAnQUESAS ISLANDS. — TRANS^
ACTIONS AND INCIDENTS WIIUII IIAlM'ENEn WHILE THE SIlll' LAY IN MADHE DE DI08,
OR RESOLUTION IIAV, IN THE ISLAND OF ST. CHIUSTINA.

After leaving Easter Island, I stciTtd nortli-wi-st l>y noitli, and nortli-nortli-wost, with
a fine eaf^terly pale, intending to toueli at tlie Mannicsas, if I nut with iiotliing Ijefore I got
tliere. We had not been long at sea before tlie bilious disorder inadu anotlier attaek upon
me, bnt not so violent as the former. I believe this second visit was owing to iiiy exposing
and fatiguing myself too much at Easter Island.

On the 22d, being in the latitude of 19' 20' S., longitude 114" 40' W., steered north-west.
Since leaving Easter Island, the variation had not been more than li ' 4', nor less than 2' 112'
E. ; but on the 2(!th, in latitude 15^ 7' S., longitiulc IMF 4;V W., it was no more than
1° r E., after which it began to increase. On the 2i)th, being in latitude 1(»' 20', longitndo
123' ")8' W., altered the course to west north-west, and the next d.iy to west, being then
in latitude !)^ 24', which I judged to be the jiarallel of the Marquesas; where, as I have
before observed, I intended to touch in order to settle their situation, which I find ditt'erent
in different charts. Having now a steady settled trade-wind and jdeasant weather, I
ordered the fori;e to be set up, to repair and make various necessary articles in the
iron way, and the calkers had already been some time at work calking the decks,
weather-works, &c.

As we advanced to the west, wo found the variation to increase bnt slowly ; for, on the
3d of April, it was only 4" 40' E., being then in the latitude \)° 32', longitude 132° 45', by
observation made at the same time. I continued to steer to the west till the (>th, at four in
the afternoon, at which time, being in the latitude of J)° 20', longitude I3{1° 14' W., wo
discovered an island, bearing w^cst by south, distant about nine Iciigncs. Two hours after
we saw another bearing south-west by south, which appeared more extensive than tho
former. I hauled up for this island, and ran under an easy sail all night, having squally
unsettled rainy weather, which is not very uncommon in this sea when near high land. At
six o'clock the next morning, the first island bore north-west, the second south-west ' west,
and a third west, I gave orders to steer for the separation between the two last, and soon
after a fourth was seen, still more to the west. By this time we were well assured that
these were the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1;)95. The first isle was a new
discovery, which I named Hood's Island, after the young gentleman who first saw it ; tho
second was that of Saint Pedro; the third, La Dominica; and the fourth, St. Christina. We
ranged the south-east coast of La Dominica without seeing the least signs of anchorage, till
we came to the channel that divides it from St. Christina, through which we passed, hauled
over for the last-mentioned island, and ran along the coast to the south-west in search of
jMendana's Port. We passed several coves in which there seemed to be anchorage ; but a
great surf broke on all the shores. Some canoes put off from these places, and followed us
down the coast.

At length, having come before the port we were in search of, we attempted to turn into it,
the wind being right out ; but as it blew in violent squalls from this high land, one of these
took us just after we had put in stays, payed the shij) off again, and before she wore round
she was within a few yards of being driven against the rocks to leeward. This obliged us
to stand out to sea, and to make a stretch to windward ; after which we stood in again, and,
without attempting to turn, anchored in the entrance of the bay in thirty-four fathoms
water, a fine sandy bottom. This was no sooner done, than about thirty or forty of the
natives came off to us in ten or twelve canoes ; but it required some address to get them
alongside. At last, a hatchet and some spike-nails induced the people in one canoe to come
under the quarter-gallery ; after which all the others put alongside, and having exchanged
some bread- fruit and fish, for small nails, &c. retired ashore, the sun being already set.
We observed a heap of stones in the bow of each canoe, and every man to have a sling tied
round his hand.

III., 1774.

— THANS-
UK DIOS,

•est, with

fore I got

atk upon

cxiiosing

>rth-wost.
lan 2° :J2'
II ore tlinn
lonsitiido
)eing tlicn
as I have
1 (litt'erent
weather, I
\cs in the
the dcclis,

or, on the

2° 45', hy

at four in

4' W., wo

lonrs after

than the

iig squally

huid. At

'st A west,

and soon

urcd that

las a new

w it ; the

itina. We

oragc, till

(d, hauled

search of

;e; but a

illowed us

jrn into it,

le of tlieso

lore round

jbliged us

rain, and,
fathoms
ky of the

get them
to como
Ixchanscd

cady set.

sling tied

Apuii-, 1774. COOK'S SK{ OM) VOY.\(JK UOrXD THK WOULD.

4.')7

Very early next morning, the natives vixitcd us again in much greater nnmhers than
before ; bringing with tlieui brtad-frnit, plantains, and one pig, all of whidi they (ixchanged
for nails, &c. Hut, in this tralVic, they would fre(|uently keep (nir goods aiul make no
return ; till at last I was obliged to lire a musket-ball over one n»au who had several times
served us in this manner ; after whieh they dealt nuire fairly, and soon after several of them
came on board. At this time we W( re preparing to warp farther into the bay ; and I was
going in a boat, to look for the most eonvenient plaee to moor the ship in. Observing too
many of the natives on board, I said to the olbeers, " You must look well after these jieople,
or they will eertainly carry otV something or other. " I bad hardly got into tlie boat, before
1 was told they had stolen one of the iron stanchions from tlu^ opjio^ite gangway, and were
making oft' w ith it. I ordered them to fire over the canoe till I eouM get round in the boat,
but not to kill any one. Ihit the natives made too much noise; for me to be heard ; and the
unhappy thief was killed at the third shot. Two others in tlie same canoe leaped uver!)oard,
but got in again just as I came to them. The stanchion they iiad thrown overboard. One
of tliem, a man grown, sat Imling the Wood and water out of the canoe, in a kind of
hysteric laiigb. The other, a youth about fourteen or fifteen years of age, l oked on tho
deceased with a serious and d«-jectcd countenance : wo had afterwards reason to believe ho
was his son.

At this unhappy accident, all the natives retired with precipitation. I f(dlowed them
into the bay, and prevailed upon the jieojile in one canoe to come alongside the boat, and
receive some nails and other things, which I gave them. This, in some measure, allayed
tlieir fears. Having taken a view of the bay, ami found that fresh water, which we nu)st
wanted, was to be bad, I returned on board, and carried out a kedge-anchor with three
hawsers upon an end, to warp tho ship in by, and hove short on the bower. One would
have thought that the natives, by this time, would have been so sensible of the effect of our
fire-arms, as not to have provoked us to fire u])on them any more ; but the event proved
otherwise. For the boat had no sooner left the kedge-anchor, than two men in a canoe put
off from the shore, took hold of the buoy-rope, and attempted to drag it ashore, little con-
sidering what was fast to it. Lest, after discovering their mistake, tliey should take away
the buoy, I ordered a musket to be fired at them. The ball fell sliort, and they took not
the least notice of it; but a second having passed over them, they let go the buoy, and
made for tho shore. This was the last shot we had occasion to fire at any of them while
we lay at this place. It probably bad more effect than killing the man, by showing them
that they were not safe at any distance ; at least we had reason to think so, for they after-
wards stood in great dread of the musket. Nevertheless, they would very often be
exercising their talent of thieving upon us, which I thought proper to put up with, as our
stay was not likely to be long amongst them. The trouble these people gave us retarded us
so long, that, before we were ready to heave the anchor, the wind began to increase, and
blew in squalls out of tho bay; so that we were obliged to lie fast. It was not long before
the natives ventured off to us again. In the first canoe which came, was a man who seemed
to be of some consequence. He advanced slowly with a pig on his shoulder, and speaking
something which we did not understand. As soon as he got alongside, I made him
a present of a hatchet, and several other articles. In return he sent in his pig, and was,
.at last, prevailed upon to come himself up into tho gangway, where he made but a short
stay before he went away. The reception this man met with induced the people in all the
other canoes to put .alongside; and exchanges were presently re established.

Matters being thus settled on board, I went on shore with a party of men, to see what
was to be done there. We were received by the natives with great courtesy; and, as if
noth'ug had happened, trafficked with them for some f'uit and a few small pigs ; and, after
loadmg the launch with wntcr, returned aboard. After dinner I sent the boats, under the
protection of a guard, ashore for Avater. On their landing, the natives all fled but one man,
and he seemed much frightened ; afterwards one or two more came down ; and these were
all that were seen this afternoon. We could not conceive the reason of this sudden fright.
Early in the morning of the 9th, the boats were sent as usual for water ; and, just as they
were coming off, but not before, some of the natives made their appearance. After breakfast,

111

- II

il!

r.i I

' i

: i

isa

(OOKS SK<()NI) V()YA(JK UOINI) THE WOIll.P. Apnii,, 1771.

I landi'd some little tiiiio licfnrc tlit> piiard, wlirii tlic "ntivrs crowiltid round mo in gn-at
niimlHTH ; )>iit nM sodii ns tlic piiiird landed, I li.i<I enough to do to keep tlieni from running
oflT. At lenptli tlieir fears vanished, and a trade yvnn opened for fruit and ])igH. I believe
tlie reason of tlio nativcH flying froni our people tlu' day before, was tlieir not seeing luo at
the head of theui ; for they certainly would have done the same to-day liad I not been
present. About noon, a chief of some consequence, attended by a great nund)cr of people,
came down to the landing-jdace. I presented him with such articles as I had with me ;
ami, in return, he gave mo some of his ornaments. After these mutual exchanges, a gijod
understanding seemed to be established between us ; so that we got by exchanges as much
fniit as loaded two boats, with which we returned on board to dinner, but could not prevail
on the chief to accomj>any us.

In the afternoon, the watering and trading parties were sent on shore ; though the latter
pot but little, as most of the natives had retired into the country. A party of us went to
the other, or southern cove of the bay, where I jirocured five |>igs, anil came to the house,
which, we were told, ilid belong to the man we had killed. lie must have been a |)erson
of simic note, as there were six pigs in iind about his house, which, we were told, belonged
to his son, who (led on our a)iproaeli, I wanted much to have seen him, to make him
a pri'sciit, and by other kind treatment, to convince him and the others, that it was not
from any bad design ai;ainst the nation, that we had killed his father. It would have been
to little purpose, if I had left anything in tlu- houst , as it certainly wouhl have been taken
by others ; especially as I could not sufficiently explain to them my meaning. Strict
honesty was seldom observed when the jjrojierty of our things came to be di8]Hited. I saw
a strikinjr instance of this in the mornin'', when I was "oing ashore. A man in a canon
offered me a small pig for a six-inch spike, and another man being emjjloyed to convey it,
I gave him the spike, which he kept for himself, and, instead of it, gave to the man who
owned the pig a sixpenny nail. Words of course arose, and I waited to see how it would
end ; but .as the man who had possession of the spike seemed resolved to keep it, I left
them before it was decided. In the evening we returned on board with what refreshments
we had collecteil, .and thought we h.ad mjide a good day's work.

On tlie loth, early in the morning, some peojtle from more distant p.arts came in canoes
alongside, and sold us some pigs; so that wc h.ad now sutHcient to give the crew a fresh
meal. They were in gener.al so small, that forty or fifty were hardly sufficient for this
purpose. The trade on shore for fruit was ,as brisk .as ever. After dinner I made a little
expedition in my bo.it .along the co.ist to the southw.ard, .accompanied by some of the gen-
tlenion ; at the different i)l.aces we touched at, we collected eighteen i)igs ; and, I believe,
might have gotten more. The people were exceedingly obliging wherever we landed, and
readily brought down whatever we desired.

Next morning I went down to the same place where we had been the j>rcccding evening;
but, instead of getting |)igs as I ex|)ected, found the scene quite changed. The nails and
other things they were mad after but the evening before they now desi>ised, and instead of
them wanted they did not know what ; so that I w.as obliged to return with three or four
little pigs, which cost more than a dozen did the day before. When I got on board, I found
tlie same change h.ad liajipe led there, as also at the trading place on shore. The reason
was, sevenal of the young gentlemen having landed the preceding d.ay, had given away in
exchange various articles which the people had not seen before, and which took with them
more than nails or more useful iron tools. But what ruined our market the most was, one
of them giving for a pig a very large quantity o^ red feathers he had got .at Amsterdam.
None of us knew, at this time, th.at this article was in such estimation here ; .and if I had
known it, I could not havi; supportetl the tr.ade, in the m.anner it was begun, one day. Thus
w.as our fine prospect of getting a plentiful supply of refreshments from these people frus-
trated ; which will ever be the case so long as every one is allowed to make exchanges for
what he pleases ; and in what m.anner he jdeases. When I found this island was not likely
to supply us, on any conditions, with sufficient refreshments, such .as wc might expect to
find at the Society Isles, nor very convenient for t.aking in wood and water, nor for giving
the ship the necessary repairs she wanted, I resolved fortiiwith to leave it, and proceed to
some other place where our wants might be effectu.ally relieved. For, after having been

A mil., 1774.

I mo ill ^ri>at
from niniiiii^t

H. 1 Ijflil'VO

Hot'in;; iiiu iit
1 I not bi>(>ii
)cr (if people,
nd witli iiu> ;
iiigcH, a ^'00(1
ij^cs as iniicli
J not privail

nil tint latter
f UH went to
to tlio lionso,
)cen a |)crMon
ilil, helonped
bo make liini
t it was not
M liave been
licen taken
iiinj,'. Strict
iteil. I saw
m in a canoo
to convey it,
lie man who
low it would
:eep it, I left
refreshments

mc in canoes
crew a fresh
ent for this
made a little
of the gen-
d, I believe,
landed, and

inu cveninff:

'he nails and

id instead of

;hrec or four

lanl, I found

The reason

ven away in

with them

ost was, one

Amsterdam.

and if I had

day. Thus

icople frus-

cchangcs for

,s not likely

it expect to

ir for giving

1 proceed to

laving been

AiMiii., 1774.

COOKS SK( OND VOVAfiK llOflNI) TIIK WOIUJ).

nineteen weeks at sea, and living all the time upon salt diet, we eould not luit want home
refreshineiitM ; altlioiigh I must own, and tliat with jihiiHure, that on our arrival l-ere, it
could hardly be said we had one ^ick man, and but a few who had th(> leant enmpiaint.
Tliis was undoubtedly owing to the many autisedrbutie aitieles we had on hoard, and to iho
great attention of the surgeon, who was remarkably eaivful to apply them in time.

ClIAl'TF.U X. — DKl'.VUTflir. FROM TIIK MAUnlKSAS. A DrSCUIl'TION 01" TIIK SITIATION,

KXTK.NT, I'Killli;, AM) AI'I'KAIl AN( K (IT TIIK SKVKHAI. ISl.AMiS ; WITH SO.MK A( ( Ol NT
OF TIIK IXIIAIIITANTS, TIIKIll t'USTO.MS, DUKSS, IIAIIITATIONS, Foul), V KAI'ONS, AND
f'ANOKS.

At three o'clock in tho afternoon we weighed, and stood over from St. Christina for Tiiv
Dominiea, in order to take a view of the west side of that isle ; but as it was dark before wo
reached it, the night was spent in plying between the two isles. The next morning we had
a full view of the south-west point, from which the coast treiuled north-east, so that it w as
not probable we should find good anehoragc on that siile, as being exjxtsed to the (easterly
winds. We had now but little wind, and that very variable, with showers of rain. At
length we got a breeze at east north-east, with whieh we steered to the south. At five
o'clock in the afternoon Ilesolution Hay bore K.N.K. ,J K., distant five leagues, and the
island Magdalena south-east about nine leagues distant. This was the only sight we had
of this isle. I'rom hence I steend S.S.W. ^ "W. for Otaheite, with a view of falling in with
8'ime of those isles discovered by former navigators, especially those discovered by the Dutch,
whose situations arc not well determined.

IJut it will be necessary to return to the Marquesas; which were, as I have already
observed, first discevered by Alendana, a Spaniard, and from him obtained the general name
they now bear, as well as those of the different isles. The nautical .leeount of them, in
Mr, Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages to the South Seas *, is deficient in nothing but
situation. This was my chief reason for touching at them : the settling this ))oint is tho
more useful, as it will, in a great measure, fix the situations of Mendaiia's other discoveries.

The Marquesas .ire five in number, viz. La Magdalena. St. Pedro, l.a Dominiea, Santa
Christina, and Hood's Island, whieh is the northernmost, situated in latitude !)^ 2(i' S., and
N. 13" W., five leagues and a half distant from the east point of La Dominica, which is tho
largest of all the isles, extending east and west six leagues. It hath an unequal breadth,
and is about fifteen or sixteen leagues in circuit. It is full of rugged hills rising in ri<lges
directly from the sea ; these ridges are disjoined by deep valleys, which arc clothe<l with
wood, as are the sides of some of the hills j the aspect is, however, barren ; but it is, nevcir-
theless, inhabited, latitude 0' 44' MO" S. St. Pedro, which is about three Icnpnes in circuit,
and of a good height, lies south four leagues and a half from the east end of La I)(;niiniea :
we know not if it be inhabited. Nature has not been very bountiful to it. St. Christina
lies under the same parallel, three or four leagues more to the west. This island stretches
north and south, is nine miles long in that direction, and about seven leagues in circuit. A
narrow ridge of hills of considerable height extends tho whole length of the island. There
arc other ridges which, rising from the sea, and, with an equal ascent, join the main ridge.
These are disjoined by deep narrow vallejs, which are fertile, adorned with fruit and other
trees, and watered by fine streams of excellent water. La IVLigdalena we only saw at a
distance. Its situation must be nearly in the latitude of 1(>" 2;")' longitude, 13}}° ;"»()'. So
that these isles occupy one degree in latitude, and near half a degree in longitude, viz. from
l:«r 47' to 13!)" l.'J' AV., which is tho longitude of the west end of La Dominica.

Tiie port of Madre de Dios, which I named Resolution Bay, is situated near the middle
of the west side of St. Christina, and under the highest land in the island, in latitude
9" itCt 30'', longitude 139" iV 40" W. ; and N. liV W. from the west end of La Dominica.
The south point of the bay is a steep rock of considerable height, terminating at the top in

* Vol. i. p. 01 to 73.

.1!

400

COOK'S SECOND. VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Aphil, 1774.

:; '1

a peaked hill, above wliicli you will see a pathway leading up a narrow ridge to the summits
of the hills. The north point is not so high, and rises with ;i more gentle slope. They are
a mile frcii each other, in the direction of north by cast, and south by west. In the bay,
which is near three-quarters of a mile dee|>, and lias from thirty-four to twelve fathoms
water, with a clean sandy bottom, arc two sandy coves, divided from each other by a rocky
jioint. In each is a rivulet of excellent water. The northern cove is tlie most commodious
for wooding and wateru;;^. Here is the little waterfall mentioned by Quiros, Mendauta's
I)ilot; but the town or village is in the other cove. There are s. veral other coves or bays
on this side of the island ; and some of them, especially to the nortliward, may be mistaken
for this ; therefore, the best direction is tlie bearing of the west end of La Dominica.

The trees, plants, and other productions of these isles, so far as we know, arc nearly
the same as at Otaheite and the Society Isles. The refreshments to be got are hogs, fowls,
plantains, yams, and some otlier roots ; likewise bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, but of these
not many. At first these articles were purchased with nails. Beads, looking-glasses, and
such trifles, which are so higldy valued at the Society Isles, are in no esteem here ; and
even nails at Last lost their value for other articles far less useful. The inhabitants of these
islands, collectively, are, witliout exception, the finest race of people in this sea. For fine
shape and regular features, they perhaps surpass iill other nations. Nevertheless, the affinity
of their langtiage to that spoken in Otaheite and the Society Isles shows that they are of
the same nation. Oedidee could ccmverse with them tolerr.')Iy well, though ice could not ;
but it was easy to see that their language was nearly the same.

NATIVES OP THE MAHQCKSltS.

The men are punctured, or curiously tattooed, from head to foot. The figures are various,
and seem to be directed more by fancy than custom. These punctures make them look
dark ; but the women, who are but little punctured, youths, and young children who are
not at all, are as fair as some Europeans. Tlie men arc m general tall ; that is, about five
feet ten inches or six feet ; but I saw none that were fat and lusty like the Earecs of
Otaheite ; nor did I see any that could be called mr.gre. Their teeth arc not so good, nor
arc their eyes so full and lively, as those of many other nations. Their hair, like ours, is of
many colours, except red, of which I saw none. Some have it long ; but the most general
custom is to wear it short, except a bunch on each side of the crown, which they tie in a
knot. They observe different modes in trimming the beard, which is in general long.
Some part it, and tie it in two bunches under the chin ; others plat it ; some wear it loo^e,
and otiicrs quite short.

Their clothing is the same as at Otsiheite, and made of the same materials ; but they have

niL, 1774.

3 summits
Tiicy arc
1 the bay,
e fathoms
y a rocky
inmodious
\lendaiia"'s
3S or bays
I mistaken
:a.

\rc nearly
3gs, fowls,
i of tlicsc
lasses, and
here ; and
ts of these
For fine
;he affinity
they are of
jould not ;

Aphil, 1774. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

401

ire various,
them look
;n who are
about five
Earees of
good, nor
ours, is of
ist general
ley tie in a
ncral long.
,r it loote,

thoy have

it not in such plenty, nor is it so good. The men, for the mo!<t part, have nothing to cover
their nakedness, except the M'irni, as it is cullrd at Otaluite, which is a slip of cloth passed
round the waist and betwixt tlie legs. This simple dress is quiti' sufficient for the climate,
and .answers every purpose modesty requires. The dress of the women is a ]uece of cloth,
wra])ped round the loins like a petticoat, which rcachos down below the middle of the leg,
and a loose mantle over their shoulders. Their ])rincipal head-dress, and what a[i])ears to
be their chief ornament, is a sort of broad fillet, curiously made of the fibres of the iiusk of
cocoa-nuts. In the front is fixed a mother-of-pearl shell, wrought round to the size of a tea-
saucer ; before that, another, smaller, of very fine tortoise-shell, i)erforated into curious
figures. Also before, and in the centre of that, is another round piece of mother-of-pearl,
about the size of half-a-erown ; and before this another piece of perforated tortoise-shell, the
size of a shilling. Besides this decoration in front, sonic have it also on each side, but in
smaller pieces ; and all have fixed to them the tail-feathers of cocks or tropic-birds, which,
when the fillet is tied on, stand upright ; so that the whole together makes a very sightly
ornament. They wear round the neck a kind of ruft' or necklace, call it which you jjlease,
made of light wood, the out and upper side covered with small red peas, which are fixed on
with gull. They also wear small bunches of human hair, fastenetl to a string, and tied
round the legs and arms. Sometimes, instead of hair, they make use of short feathers ; but
all the above-mentioned ornaments are seldom seen on the same person. I saw only the
chief, who came to visit us, completely dressed in this man""!. Tiieir ordinary ornaments
are necklaces and amulets made of shells, &c. I did not see any with ear-rings, and yet all
of them had their ears pierced.

Their dwellings are in the valleys, and on the sides of the hills near their plantations.
They are built after the same manner as at Otaheite ; but are much meaner, and only
covered with the leaves of the bread-tree. The most of them are built on a square or oblong
pavement of stone, raised some height above the level of the ground. They likewise have
such pavements near their houses, on which they sit to eat and amuse themselves. In the
article of eating, these people are by no means so cleanly as the Otaheiteans. They are
likewise dirty in their cookery. Pork and fowls are 'Iressed in an oven of hot stones as at
Otaheite; but fruit and roots they roast on the fire, and, after taking oil" the rind or skin,
put them into a platter or trough with water, out of which I have seen both men and hogs
cat at the same time. I once saw them make a batter of fruit and roots diluted with water,
in a vessel that was loaded with dirt, and out of which the hogs had been but that moment
eating, without giving it the least > ashing, or even washing their hands, which were
equally dirty ; and when I expressed a dislike, was laughed at. I know not if all are so.
The actions of a few individuals are not sufficient to fix a custom on a whole nation. Nor
can I say if it is *he custom for men and women to have separate messes. I saw nothing to
the contrary ; indeed 1 saw but few women upon the whole.

They seemed to have dwellings, or strongholds, on the summits of the highest hills. These
we only saw by the help of our glasses; for I did not permit any of our people to go there,
as we Wf'ie not suilieiently acquainted with the disposition of the natives, which 1 believe is
humane and pacific. Their wea])ons are clubs and spears, r'!sembliiig those of Otaheite, but
somewhat neater. They have also slings, with which they throw stones with great velocity,
and to a creat distaiue, but not with a <'(>od aim.

Their canoes are made of wood and ])ieces of the bark of a soft tree which grows near the
sea in great plenty, and is very tough and proper for the purpose, ihoy are from sixteen
to twenty feet long, ami about fifteen inches broail ; the head and stern are made of two
solid pieces of wood ; the stern rises or curves a little, but in an irregular direction, and ends
in a ])oint ; the liead projects out horizontally, and is carved into some faint and very rude
resemblance of a human face. They are rowed by paddles, and some have a sort of latteen
sail made of matting.

Hogs were the only quadrupeds we saw, and cocks and hens the only tame fowls.
However, the woods seemed to abound with small birds of a very beautiful plumage, and
fine notes ; but the fear of alarming the natives hindered us from shooting so many of thcni
as might otherwise have been done.

! 1 1

11 i

fit

<*•■ I

4G2

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

April, 1774.

CnAPTFU XI. A DESCRIPTION OF SEVERAL ISLANDS DISCOVERED OR SEEN IN THE PASSAOE

FROM THE aiAIUlUESAS TO OTAIIEITE, WITH AN ACCOCNT OF A NAVAL REVIEW.

With a fine easterly wind I steered south-west; soutli-west by west, and west by south
till the 17th, at ten o'clock in tiie morning, when land was seen bearing W. | N., which,
upon a m irer approacl;, we found to be a string of low inlets connected together by a reef of
coral rocks. Wo ranged the north-west coast, at the distance of one mile from shore, to
three quarters of its length, which in th.o whole is near four leagues, when wo came to a
creek or inlet that seemed to open a communication into the lake iu the middle of the isle.
As I wanted to obtain some knowledge of the produce of these half-drowned isles, wo
brought-to, hoisted out a boat, and sent the master in to sound, there being no soundings
without.

As we ran along the coast, the natives appeared in several places armed with long spe.ars
and clubs ; and some were got togetiier on one side of the creek. When the master returned,
he reported tliat there was no passage into the lake by the creek, which was fifty fathoms
wide at the entrance, and thirty deep ; farther in, thirty wide and twelve deep ; that the
bottom was everywhere racky, and the sides bounded by a wall of coral rocks. Wo were
under no necessity to put tiie ship into such a place as this ; but as the natives had shown some
signs of a friendly disposition, by coming peaceably to the boat, and taking such things as were
given them, I sent two boats well armed ashore, under tlie command of Lieutenant Cooper,
with a view of having some intercourse with them, and to give 3[r. Forster an op])ortunity of
collecting something in his way. We saw our people land without the least opposition
being made by a few natives wlio were on the shores. Some little time after, observing forty
or fifty more, all armed, coming to join them, we stood close in shore in order to he ready to
support our people in case of an att.xk. But nothing of this kind happened; and soon
after our boats returned aboard, when 3Ir. Cooper informed me that, on his landing, only a
few of the natives met him on the beach, but there wero many in the skirts of tlie woods
with spears in their hands. The presents he made them were received with great coolness,
which plainly showed we were unwelcmnc visitors. When their reinforcement arrived, he
thought proper to embark, as the day was already far spent, and I had given orders to avoid
an attack by all possible means. When his men got into the boats, some wero for pushing
them off, others for detaining them ; but, at last, they suffered them to depart at tlieir
leisure. They brought on board five dogs, which seemed to be in ])lenty there. They saw
no fruit but cocoa-nuts, of which they got, by exchanges, two dozen. One of our people got
a dog for a single plantain, which led us to conjecture they had none of this fruit.

Tliis island, which is called by the inhabitants Tiookea, was discovered and visited by
Commodore Byron. It has sometliing of an oval shape, is about ten leagues in circuit,
lying in the direction of east south-east, and west north-west, and situated in the latitude
of 14" 27' 30" S., longitude 144^ 50' W. The .nhabitants of this island, and perhaps of all
the low ones, are of a much darker colour than those of the higher islands, and seem to ho of
a more ferine dispo^'Mon. This may be owing to their situation. Nature not having
bestowed her favours to these low islands with that profusion she has done t' ome of tl'c
others, the inhabitants are chiefly beholden to the sea for their subsistence ; . jiisequently,
are much exposed to the sun and weather, and by that means become more dark in colour,
and more hardy and robust; for there i^ no doubt of their being of the same nation. Our
people observed that they wero stout, well-made men, and had marked on their bodies the
figure of a fish ; a very good emblem of their profession.

On the Uhh, at daybreak, after having spent the night making short boards, we wore
down to another isle wo had in sight to the westward, which we reached by eight o'clock,
and ranged the south-east side at one mile from shore. We found it to he just such another
as that we had left, extending north-east and south-west near four leagues, and from five to
three miles broad. It lies soutli-west by west, two leagues distant from the west end of
Tiookea, and the middle is situ.ited in the latitude of 14" 37' 8., longitude 145"" 10' W.

BiL, 1774.

R PASSAGE
lEW.

t by soutli
N., which,
)y a roL'f of
I shore, to
came to a
of the isle.
(1 isles, we
) soundings

long spears
:t returned,
fty fathoms
p ; that the
We were
shown some
iiigs as were
lant Cooper,
il)ortunityof
t opposition
serving forty
3 be ready to
d ; and soon
iding, only a
if the woods
•cat coolness,
it arrived, he
dcrs to avoid
for pushing
lart at their
They saw
ur people got
liit.

ud visited by
IS in circuit,
the latitude
lierhaps of all
[seem to be of
not having
ome of the
iusequently,
irk in colour,
liation. Our
lir bodies tlie

Irds, wo wore

Icight o'clock,

such another

from five to

west end <if

145" 10' W.

April, 1774.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

4<53

These must be the same islands to which Commodore Byron gave the name of George's
Islands. Their situation in longitude, which was deterniiucd by binar observations made
near tlic shores, and still farther correct by the dift'crence of longitude carried on l)y the
watch to Otaheite, is 3° fyi' more east than lie says tiny lie. This correction, I ai)prciiend,
may be ap})licd to all the islands he discovered.

After leaving these isles, we steered south south-west, half west, and south-west by south,
with a fine easterly gale, having signs of the vicinity of land, particularly a smooth sea ; and,
on tlie lOtli, at seven in the morning, land was seen to the westward, whicli we bore down
to, and reached the south-east end by nine o'clock. It proved to be another of these half-
overflowed or drowned islands, which are so common to this part of tlie ocean ; that is, a
number of little isles ranged in a circular form, connected together by a reef or wall of coral
rock. The sea is, in general, everywhere, on their outside, unfathomable ; all their interior
parts arc covered with water, abounding, I have been told, with fish ami turtle, on wliieh
the inhabitants subsist, and sometimes exehi.uge the latter witii the high islanders for cloth,
&c. Tlicse inland seas would be excellent harbours, were they not shut up from the access
of shipping, which is the case with most of them, if we can believe the report of the iniiabit-
ants of the other isles. Indeed few of them have been well searched by Europeans ; the
little prospect of meeting with fresh water having generally discouraged every attemjit of
this kind. I, who have seen a great many, have not yet seen an ini't into one.

This island is situated in the latitude of 15" 2(5', lengitude 14(>' 20'. It is five leagues
long in the direction of north-north-east and soutii -south-west, and about three leagues broad.
As wo drew near the south end, wc saw from tlie niast-iiead another of these low isles
bearing south-east, distant about four or five- leagues, but being to windward we could not
fetch it. Soon after a third a})peared, bearing south-west by south, for which we steered,
and at two o'clock p.m. reached the east end, which is situated in latitude 1.")" 4/' >S., longi-
tude 14(5" 30' W. This island extends west-north-west and east-south-east, and is seven
leagues long in that direction ; but its breadth is not above two. It is in all respects like
the rest ; only here are fewer islets, and less firm land on the reef which inclosetli the lake.
As wo ranged the north coast, at the distance of half a mile, we saw people, liuts, canoes,
and places built, seemingly for drying of fisli. They seemed to be the same sort of peojile as
on Tiookea, and were armed with long spikes like them. Drawing near the west end, wc
discovered another or fourth island, bearing north-north-east. It seemed to be low like the
others, and lies west from the first isle, distant six leagues. These four isles I called Pallistr's
Isles, in honour of my wortliy friend Sir Hugh I'alliscr, at this time comjitroller of the
navy.

Not choosing to run farther in the dark, we spent the night making short boards under
the top-sail, and on the 2()th, at daybreak, hauled round the west end of the third isle, which
was no sooner done than we found a great swell rolling in from the south ; a sure sign tiiat
we were clear of these low islands ; and as wc saw no more land, I steered S.W. ^ S. for
Otaheite ; having the advantage of a stout gale at east, attended with showers of rain. It
cannot be determined with any degree of certainty whether the group of isles we had lately
seen be any of those discovered by the Dutch navigators or not ; the situation of their
discoveries not being handed down to us with sufficient accuracy. It is, however, necessary
to observe, that this part of the ocean, tliat is from the latitude of 20" dcjwn to 14" or 12%
and from the meridian of 13H" to 14J5' or I'lO' W., is so strewed with these low isles, that a
navigattir cannot proceed with too uiueli caution.

We made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st, and at noon were about thirteen
leagues east of Point Venus, for which we steered, and got jiretty well in with it by sunset,
when we shortened sail ; and, having sjient the night, which was S(pialiy, w ith rain, stand-
ing on and off, at eight o'clock the next morning anchored in Matavia r>ay in seven fathoms
water. This was no sooner known to the natives than many of them made us a visit, and
expressed not a little joy at seeing us again. As my chief reason for jmtting in at tiiis
place was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to know the error of the 'vatch by the known
longitude, and to determine anew her rate of going, tiie first thing we did was to laml his
instruments, and to erect tents for the reception oi a guard and such other people as it was

I ' I

ifi ' i

404

COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE AVORLD

Arnrr,, 1774.

■i

If-'i

i -tnl

necessary to liave on slioro. Sick wc had none ; the refreshments we got at the Marquesas
had removed every c()ni]>laint of that kind.

On tlie 2;^rd, showery weather. Oiir very good friends the natives snpjdicd us with fruit
and fish sufficient for the whole crew. On the 24tli, Otoo the king, .ind several other
chiefs, with a train of attciidiiiits, paid us a visit, ajid brought .as presents ten or a dozen
large hogs, besides fruits, which made them exceedingly welcome. I was advertised of the
king's coming, and looked upon it as a good omen. Knowing how much it was my interest
to make this man my friend, I nut him at the tents, and conducted him and his friends on
board, in my boat, where they staid dinner ; after which they were dismissed with suitable
presents, and highly pleased with the reception they had met with.

Next day we had much thunder, lightning, and rain. This did not hinder the king from
making me another visit, and a pi'cscnt of a large quantity of refreshments. It hath been
already mentioned, that when we were at the island of Amsterdam we had collected, amongst
other curiosities, some red jiarrot featiiers. When this was known here, all the principal
people of both sexes endeavoured to ingratiate themselves into our favour by bringing us
hogs, fruit, and every other thing the island aft'orded, in order to obtain these valuable jewels.
Our having these feathers was a fortunate circumstance ; for as they were valuable to the
natives, they became so to us; but more especially as my stock of trade was, b}' this time,
greatly exhausted ; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, I should have found it difficult
to have supplied the ship with the necessary refreshments.

When I put in at this island, I intended to stay no longer than till Mr. Wales liac' made
the necessary observations for .the purposes already mentioned; thinking we should meet
with no better success than we did the last time we were here. But the reception we had
already met with, and the few excursions we had made, which did not exceed the plains of
JVlatavai and Oparree, c mvinced us of our error. We found, at these two places, built and
and building, a great number of large canoes, and houses of every kind ; people living in
spacious habitations, who had not a place to shelter themselves in eight months before ;
several large hogs about every house ; and every other sign of a rising state. Judging from
these favourable circumstances that we should not mend ourselves by removing to another
island, I resolved to make a longer stay, and to begin with the repairs of the ship and stores,
&c. Accordingly I oixlered the empty casks and sails to be got ashore to be repaired, the
ship to be calked, and the rigging to be overhauled ; all of which the high southeru latitudes
had made indispensably necessary.

In the morning of the 2Gtli, I went down to Oparree, accompanied by some of the officers
and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a visit by appointment. As we drew near we observed a
number of large canoes in motion ; but were surju'ised, when we arrived, to see upwards of
three hundred ranged in order, for some distance ah)ng the shore, all coni])letely equipped
and manned, besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. So unexpected an
armament collected together in our neighbourhood, in the space of one night, gave rise to
various conjectures. Wc landed however in the midst of them, and Avere received by a vast
multitude, many of them under arms, and many not. The cry of the latter was Tii/o no
Otoo, and that of the former Th/o no Towha. This chief, we afterwards learned, was admiral
or commander of the fleet and troops present. The moment we landed, I was met by a
chief whose name was Tee, uncle to the king, and one of his prime v 'uisters, of whom
I inquired for Otoo. Presently after we were met by Towha, who received me with great
courtesy, lie took me by the one hand, and Tee by the other ; and, without my knowing
where they intended to carry me, dragged me as it were through the crowd tliat was divided
into two jiarties, both of which professed themselves my friends by crying out 'I'ii/o no
Tootee. One party wanted me to go to Otoo, and the other to remain with Towha, Coniiu"'
to the usual place of audience, a mat was spread for me to sit down upon, and Tee left me
to go find bring the king. Towha was unwilling I should sit down, partly insisting on my
going with him ; but, as I knew nothing of tiiis chief, I refused to comply. Presently
Tee returned, and wanted to conduct me to the king, taking hold of my hand for that
purpose. This Towha opposed ; so that, between the one i)arty and the other, I was like to
have been torn in pieces ; and was obliged to desire Tec to desist, and to leavn me to the

April, 1774.
le jVIarqucsas

us with fruit
several other
II or a dozen
•rtised of the
s my interest
Ilia friends on
with suitable

;he king from
It hath been
cted, amongst
the principal
y bringing us
Uuvble jewels,
aluable to the
by this time,
md it difficult

ales hac' made
> should meet
eption we had
I the plains of
ices, built and
cople living in
louths before ;
Judging from
iing to another
hip and stores,
repaired, tlio
,hern latitudes

of the offieers
•e observed n
>e upwards of
;tely eqnipped
unexpected an
;, gave rise to
ived by a vast
was Til/0 no
, was admiral
as met by a
;rs, of whom
ne with great
my knowing
t was divided
out Tii)o no
ha. Coining
d Tec left me
sisting on my
I'resently
land for that
I was like to
ivfi nio to the

April, 1774. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

4C6

admiral and his party, who conducted me down to the fleet. As soon as wo came before
the admiral's vessel, we found two lines of armed men drawn up before her, ti> keej) olVthe
crowd, as I supposed, and to clear the way for me to go in. But, as I was determined not
to go, I made the water, which was between me and her, an excuse. This did not answer ;
for a man immediately squatted himself down at my feet, oifering to carry me; and then I
declared I would not go. That very moment Towha quitted me, without my seeing which
way he went, nor would any one inform me. Turning myself round, I saw Tee, who, I
believe, had never lost sight of me. Inquiring of him for the king, lie told mo he was gone
into the country MalaoH, and advised me to go to my boat ; whieli wo accordingly did, as
soon as we could get collected together ; for Mr. Edgcumbe was the only person that could
keep with me ; the others being jostled abojit in the crowd in the same manner we had been.
Wlicn wo got into our boat, we took our time to view this grand licet. The vessels of
war consisted of a hundred and sixty large double eanocs very well e([uij)pcd, maimed, and
armed. But I am not sure that they had their full comiileinent of men or rowers ; I rather
think not. The chiefs, and all those on the
fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits ;
that is, in a vast quantity of cloth, turbans,
breastplates, and helmets. Some of the latter
were of such a length as greatly to encumber the
wearer. Indeed, their whole dress seemed to be
ill calculated for the day of battle, and to be de-
signed more for show than use. Be this as it
may, it certainly added grandeur to the prospect,
as they were so complaisant as to show themselves
to the best advantajje. The vessels were deco-
rated with flags, streamers, &c. so that the whole
made a grand and noble appearance, such as we
had never seen before in this sea, and what no
one would have expected. Their instruments of
war were clubs, spears, and stones. The vessels
were ranged close alongside of each other, with
their heads ashore, and their stern to the sea ;
the admiral's vessel being nearly in the centre.
Besides the vessels of war, there were a hundred
and seventy sail of smaller double canoes, all
with a little house upon them, and rigged with
mast and sail, which the war canoes had not.
These, we judged, were designed for transports,
victuallers, &c. ; for in the war canoes was no
sort of provisions whatever. In these three hun-
dred and thirty vessels, I guessed there were no
less than seven thousand seven hundred and sixty

men ; a number which appears incredible, especially as we wen; told they all belonged to the
districts of Attahourou and Ahopatea, In this computation, I allow to each war canoe forty
men, troops and rowers, and to each of the small canoes eiglit. Most of tlie gentlemen who
were with me, thouglit the number of men belonffino; to the war canoes exceeded this. It
is certain that the most of them were fitted to row with more paddles than I have allowed
them men ; but at this time I think they were not complete. Tiipia informed us, when I
was first here, that the whole island raised only between six and seven thousand men, but
we now saw two districts only raise that number ; so that he must have taken his account
from some old establishment, or else he only meant Tatatous, that is, warriors, or men trained
from their infancy to arms, and did not include the rowers, and those necessary to navigate
the otlier vessels I should think he only spoke of this number as the standing troops or
militia of the island, and not their whole force. This point I shall leave to be discussed in
another place, and return to the subject.

11 II

wm dukss of otaiikitk.

V •■'

,.' li

40G

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Aphil, 1771.

'■■I

After we had well viewed this fleet, I wanted mucli to have seen the admiral, to have
gone with him on board the war canoes. AVe inquired for him as we rowed past the fleet
to no purpose. We put ashore and inquired, hut the noise and crowd were so great that no
one attended to what we said. At last Teo came, and whispered us in the ear, that Otoo
was gone to Matavai, advising us to return thither, and not to land where we were, AVo
accordingly proceeded for the ship, and this intelligence and advice received from Tec gave
rise to new conjectures. In short, we concluded that this Towha was some powerful disaf-
fected chief, who was upon the point of making war against his sovereign ; for we could not
imagine Otoo had any other reason for leaving Oparree in the manner he did.

We had not been long gone from Oparree before the whole fleet was in motion to the
westward, from whence it came. AA'^hen we got to ]Matavai, our friends there told us that
this fleet was part of the armament intended to go against Eimeo, whoso chief had thrown
off the yoke of Otaheite, and assumed an independency. We were likewise informed, that
Otoo neither was nor had been at Matavai ; so that we were still at a loss to know why he
fled from Oparree. This occasioned another trip tliither in the afternoon, where we found
him ; and now understood that the reason of his not seeing me in the morning was, that
some of his people having stolen a quantity of my clothes which were on shore washing, he
was afraid I should demand restitution. lie repeatedly asked me if I was not angry ; and
when I assured him that I was not, and that they might keep what they had got, he was
satisfied. Towha was alarmed partly on the same account. He thought I was displeased
when I refused to go aboard his vessel ; and I was jealous of seeing such a force in our neigh-
bourhood without being able to know anything of its design. Thus, by mistaking one
another, I lost the opportunity of examining more narrowly into part of the naval force of
this isle, and making myself better acquainted with its nianueuvres. Such an opportunity
may never occur ; as it was commanded by a brave, sensible, and intelligent chief, who would
have satisfied us in all the questions we had thought proper to ask ; and, as the objects were
before us, we could not well have misunderstood each other. It happened unluckily that
Oedidee was not with us in the morning ; for Tee, who was the only man we could depend
on, served only to perplex us. Matters being thus cleared up, and mutual presents having
passed between Otoo and me, we took leave and returned on board.

.i !

m I i

l!:l<:

' .

CHAPTER XII. — SOME ACCOUNT OF A VISIT FROM OTOO, TOWHA, AND SEVKRAL OTHER
CHIEFS ; ALSO OP A ROBBERY COMMITTED BY ONE OP THE NATIVES, AND ITS CONSE-
QUENCES, WITH GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SUBJECT.

In the morning of the 27th, I received a present from Towha, consisting of two large hogs
and some fruit, sent by two of his servants, who had orders not to receive anything in return ;
nor would they, when offered them. Soon after, I went down to Oparree in my boat, where
having found both this chief and the king, after a short stay, I brought them both on board
to dinner, together with Tarevatoo, the king's younger brother, and Tee. As soon as we
drew near the ship, the admiral, who had never seen one before, began to express much
surprise at so new a sight. He was conducted all over the ship, every part of which ho
viewed with great attention. On this occasion Otoo was the principal show-man j for, by
this time, he was well acquainted with the different parts of the ship. After dinner Towha
put a hog on board and retired, without my knowing anything of the matter, or having
made him any return either for this or the present I had in the morning. Soon after, the
king and his attendants went away also. Otoo not only seemed to pay this chief much
respect, but was desirous I should do the same ; and yet he was jealous of him, but on what
account we knew not. It was but the day before that he frankly told us, Towha was not
his frie- ' Both these chiefs when on board solicited me to assist them against Tiarabou,
notwithstanding a peace at this time subsisted between the two kingdoms, and we were told
that their joint force was to go against Eimeo. Whether this was done with a view of
breaking with their neighbours and allies, if I had promised them assistance, or only to sound
my disposition, I know not. Probably tliey would have been ready enough to have embraced

M 111

April, 177 A.

[liral, to liavo
past tlic fleet
great that no
ar, that Otoo
were. Wo
rom Tec gave
owcrful disaf-
wc could not

motion to the
•0 told lis that
;f had thrown
informed, that
know why he
here we found
nine was, that
i-e washing, he
ot angry ; and
id got, he was
was displeased
e in our neigh-
mistaking one
! naval force of
m opportunity
lief, wlio would
le objects were
unluckily that
e could depend
)resents having

VKBAL OTHER
ND ITS CONSE-

two large hogs
liing in return ;

ly boat, where

[both on board

Ls soon as wc

express much
\t of which lie
-man ; for, by
Idinner Towlia
|ter, or having
Soon after, the
is chief much
Ji, but on what
lowha was not

(nst Tiarabou,
we were told
lith a view of

Diily to sound

Lave embraced

Arnii,, 1774. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

407

an opportunity which would have enabled them to conquer tliat kingdom, and annex it to
their own as it was formerly. Be tliis as it may, I heard no more of it ; indeed, I gave
them no encouragement.

Next day we had a present of a hog sent by Wahca-toua, king of Tiarabou. For this,
in return, he desired a few red feathers, which were, together witli otiier tilings, sent him
accordingly. Mr. Forster and his party set out for the mountains, with an intent to stay
out all night. I did not go out of tiie ship this day. Early on the morning of the 2i)th,
Otoo, Towlia, and several otiier grandees, came on board, and brought witli them as jnesents,
not only provisions, but some of the most valuable curiosities of the island. I made them
returns, with which they were well pleased. I likewise took this opportunity to repay the
civilities I had received from Towha.

Tiie night before, one of the natives attempting to steal a water-cask from the watering-
place, he was caught in the act, sent on board, and put in irons ; in wliicu situation Otoo
and the other cliiefs saw him. Having made known his crime to them, Otoo begged ho
might be set at liberty. This I refused, telling him, that since I punished my peojjle, wlien
they committed the least offence against his, it was but just tliis man shouhl be jnniislied
also ; and as I knev he would not do it, I was resolved to do it myself. Accordingly, I
ordered the man to be carried on shore to the tents, and having followed myself witii Otoo,
Towha, and others, I ordered the guard out under arms, and tlic man to be tied up to a post.
Otoo, his sister, and some others begged hard for him ; Towha said not one word, but was
very attentive to everything going forward. I expostulated with Otoo on the conduct of
tliis man, and of his peojile in general ; telling him, that neither I, nor any of my people,
took anything from them, without first paying for it ; enumerating the articles wc gave in
exchange for such and such things, and urging that it was wrong in them to steal from us
who were their friends. I, moreover, told him, that the jninishing this man would be the
means of saving the lives of others of liis people, by deterring them from committing crimes
of this nature, in which some would certainly be shot dead, one time or another. With
these and other arguments, which I believe he pretty well understood, he seemed satisfied,
and only desired the man might not be Matterou (or killed). I then ordered the crowd,
which was very great, to be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of them all,
ordered the fellow two dozen of lashes with a cat-of-nine-tails, which he bore with great
firmness, and was then set at liberty. After this, the natives were going away ; but Towha
stepped forth, called them back, and harangued them for near half an hour. His speech
consisted of short sentences, very little of which I understood ; but, from what we could
gather, he recapitulated part of what I had said to Otoo ; named several advantages they
had received from us ; condemned their present conduct, and recommended a different one
for the future. The gracefulness of jiis action, and the attention with which he was heard,
bespoke him a great orator. Otoo said not one word. As soon as Towha had ended his
speech, I ordered the marines to go througli tlieir exercise, and to load and fire in volleys
with ball; and as they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is easier to conceive than to
describe the amazement the natives were under the whole time, especially those who had not
seen anything of the kind before.

This being over, the chiefs took leave and retired with all tlicir attendants, scarcely more
pleased than frightened at what they had seen. In the evening, ]Mr. Forster and his party
returned from the mountains, where he had spent the night, having found some new plants,
and some others which grew in New Zealand. lie saw Iluahcine, which lies forty leagues
to the westward ; by which a judgment may be formed of tlio height of the mountains in
Otalieite.

Next morning I had an opportunity to sec the people of ten war-canoes go through part
of their paddling exercise. They had put off from the shore before I was apprised of it ; so
that I was only present at their landing. They were properly equipped for war, the
warriors with their arms, and dressed in their war habits, &c. In landing, I observed that
the moment tlie canoe touched the ground, all tlie rowers leaped out, and, with tlic assist-
ance of a few people on the shore, dragged the canoe on dry land to her jiroper place ; wliicli
being done, every one walked off with his paddle, &c. All this was executed with such

H II 2

til

1 i

I'l

( 'i\

4G8

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1774.

:* :

\:<

expc(1ition, tliat, in five minutes' time after putting aslioro, you could not tcU that anything
of the kind had been goin;^ forward. I thought these vessc-ls were thinly maimed with
rowers ; the most being not above thirt}', and the least sixteen or eighteen. I observed the
warriors on the stage encouraged the rowers to exert tiienisulves. iSomc youths sat high up
in the curved stern, above the steersmen, with white wands in their hands. I know not
what they were placed there for ; unless it was to look out, and direct, or give notice of what
they saw, as they were elevated .ibove every one else. Tarevatoo, the king's brother, gave
me the first notice of these canoes being at sea ; and, knowing that IMr. Hodges made
drawings of everything curious, desired, of his own accord, that he might be sent for. I
being at this time on shore with Tarevatoo, I\Ir. Hodges was, therefore, with mc, and had
an o]>portunity to collect some materials for a largo drawing or picture of the fleet assembled
at Ojiarree, which will convey a far better idea of it than can be expressed by words. Being
present when the warriors undressed,! was surprised at the quantity and weight of cloth
they had upon them, not conceiving how it was possible for them to stand under it in time
of battle. Not a little was wrapped round their heads as a turban, and made into a cap.
This indeed might be necessary in previnting a broken head. Many had fixed to one of this
sort of cajis, dried branches of small shrubs covered over with white feathers ; which, how-
ever, could only be for ornament.

I had a very great supply of jirovisions, sent and brought by different chiefs on the 1st of
May ; and the next d.iy received a present from Towha, sent by his servants, consisting of a
hog, and a boat-load of various sorts of fruit and roots. The like present I also had from
Otoo, brought by Tarevatoo, who stayed dinner ; after which I went down to Oparree, paid
a visit to Otoo, and returned on board in the evening.

On the 3d, in looking into the condition of our sea-provisions, wc found that the biscuit was
in a state of decay, and that the airing and picking we had given it at New Zealand, had not
been of that service we expected and intended ; so that we were obliged to take it all on
shore here, where it underwent another airing and cleaning, in which a good deal was found
wholly rotten and unfit to be eaten. "We could not well account for this decay in our
bread, especially as it was packed in good casks, and stowed in a dry part of the hold. Wo
judged it was owing to the ice we so frequently took in when to the southward, which made
the hold damp and cold, and to the great heat which succeeded when to the north. Be it
this, or any other cause, the loss was equal to us : it put us to scanty allowance of this article ;
and we had bad bread to eat too.

On the 4th, nothing worthy of note. On the 5th, the king and several other great men
paid us a visit, and brought with them, as usual, some hogs and fruit. In the afternoon, the
botanists set out for the mountains, and returned the following evening, having made some
now discoveries in their way.

On going ashore in the morning of the 7th, I found Otoo at the tents, and took the oppor-
tunity to ask his leave to cut down some trees for fuel. lie not well imdcrstanding me, I took
luiu to some growing near the sea-shore, where I presently made him comprehend what I
wanted, and he as readily gave his consent. 1 told him at the same time, that I should cut
down no trees that bore any fruit. He was pleased with this declaration, and told it aloud,
several times, to the people about us. In the afternoon, he and the whole royal family, viz.
his father, brother, and three sisters, paid us a visit on board. This was properly his father's
visit of ceremony. He brought mc, as a present, a complete mourning dress, a curiosity we
most valued. In return, I gave him whatever he desired, which was not a little ; and
having distributed red feathers to all the others, conducted them ashore in my boat. Otoo
wr.s so well pleased with the reception he and his friends met with, that he told mc at partin",
I might cut down as many trees as I pleased, and what sort I pleased.

During the night, between the 7th and 8th, some time in the middle watch, all our
friendly connexions received an interruption, through the negligence of one of the sentinels
on shore. He having cither slept or quitted his post, gave one of the natives an opportunity
to carry off his musket. The first news I heard of it was from Tec, whom Otoo had sent on
board for that purpose, and to desire that I would go to him, for that he was mataoued. Wo
were not well enough acquainted with their language to understand all Tee's story ; but we

May, 1774.

cooK'o sRcoN'i) vovAcr: iiorxi) tiir would.

•iro

umlorstooil onougli to know tliat soniotliiiirr had liapinnod wliicli Imd alarmrd tlic king. In
order, tlu'reforc, to be fully informed, I went a>liore with Tee and Tarevatoi), who had ^lejit
aboard all night. As soon as we landed, I was infornieil of the whole by tiie serjeant wlio
commanded the party. I found the natives all alarmed, and the most of them iled. Tare-
vatoo slipped from nie in a moment, and hardly any remained by me but Tee. With him I
went to look for Otoo ; and, as we advanced, I endeavoured to allay the fears of the people,
but at tho same time insisted on the musket bi'ing restored. After travtlliug Homo distance)
into the country, inquiring of every one we saw for Otoo, Too stopped all at once, and
advised mc to return, saying that Otoo was gone to the mountains, and lie would proceed
and tell him that I was still his friend ; a question which had been asked mc fifty times by
difteront people, and if I was angry, &c. 'J'eo also promised that he would use his endeavours
to recover tho musket. I was now satisfied it was to no purpose to go farther ; for, although
I was alone and unarmed, Otoo's fears were such, that he durst not see me ; and, therefore,
I took Tee's advice, and returned aboard. After this I sent Oedidec to Otoo to let him
know that his fears were ill-grounded ; for that I only required tho return of the musket,
which I knew was in his power.

Soon after Oedidec was gone, wc observed six large canoes coming round Point A'^enus. Some
pcoido whom I had sent out, to watch the conduct of tho neighbouring inhabitants, informed
mo they were laden with baggage, fruit, bogs, &c. There being room for suspecting that
some person belonging to these canoes had committed tho theft, I presently camo to a,
resolution to intercept them ; and having put oft' in a boat for that purpose, gave orders for
another to follow. One of tho canoes, which was some distance ahead of the rest, camo
directly for the ship. I went alongside this, and found two or three women in Iier whom I
knew. They told mc they were going on board tho ship with something for me ; and on
my inquiring of them for Otoo, was told he was then at the tents. Pleased with this news,
I contradicted the orders I had given for intercepting tho other canoes, thinking they might
be coming on board also, as well as this one, which I left within a few yards of the ship, and
rowed ashore to speak with Otoo. IJnt when I landed, I was told that ho had not been
there, nor knew they anything of him. On my looking behind me, I saw all tho canoes
making off in the greatest haste ; even tho one I had left alongside tho ship had
evaded going on board, and was making lier escape. Vexed at being thns outwitted, I
resolved to pursue them, and as I passed the ship, gave orders to send another boat for tho
same purpose. Five out of six we took, and brought alongside ; but the first, which acted
tho finesse so well, got clear off. When wo got on board with our prizes, I learnt that tho
people who had deceived mc, used no endeavours to lay liold of tho ship on the side they
were upon, but let their canoe drop past as if they meant to come under the stern, or on tho
other side ; and that tho moment they were past, they paddled oft' with all speed. Thus
tho canoe, in which were only a few women, was to have amused us with false stories, as they
actually did, while the others, in which were most of the eft'ects, got off.

In one of the canoes wo had taken, was a chief, a friend of J\[r. Forstcr's, who had hitherto
called himself an Earcc, and would have been much oftended if any one had called his title
in question ; also three women, his wife and daughter, and the mother of the late Toutaha.
These, together with the canoes, I resolved to detain, and to send the chief to Otoo, thiidving
ho would have weight enough with him to obtain the return of the musket, as his own
property was at stake. lie was, however, very unwilling to go on this embassy, and made
various excuses, one of which was his being of too low a rank for this honourable cnijdoy-
mcnt ; saying ho was no Earce, but a Manahoiinu^ and, therefore, was not a fit person to be
sent ; that an Earcc ought to bo sent to speak to an Earce ; and as there were no Earccs
but Otoo and myself, it would bo much more proper for mc to go. All his arguments
would have availed him little, if Tee and Oedidec had not, at this time, come on board and
given a now turn to the affair, by declaring that the man who stole the musket was from
Tiarabou, and had gone with it to that kingdom, so that it was not in the power of Otoo to
recover it. I very much doubted their veracity, till they asked mc to send a boat to
Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, and offered to go themselves in her, and get it. I asked
why this could not be done without my sending a boat ? They said it would not otlierwiso
be given to them.

'I*

I I

470

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE MOULD.

May, 1774.

.01;

.', , !■

I i

Tills story of tlu'irs, ultliougli it tlid not quito satii^fy me, ncvcrtlielci^a carritd with it tlio
probability of truth ; for which reason I thought it better to drop the aft'air altogether,
rather than to punish a nation for a crime 1 was not uuru any of its members had committed.
1, therefore, sufl'ered my now ambassador to depart with his two eanois without oxecutiiij;
liis conimis>ion. The other three canoes belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou chief, who liad
been some days about the tents ; and there was good reason to believe it was one of his
peojde that carried ofi" the musket. I intended to have iletained them ; but as Tee and
Oedidec both assured me that Maritata and his people were quite innocent, I suH'ered them
to bo taken away also, and desired Tec to tell Otoo, that I should give myself no farther
concern about tlie musket, since I was satisfied none of his jieople had stolen it. Indeed,
I thought it was irrecoverably lost ; but, in the d>isk of the evening, it was brought to the
tents, together with some other things we had lost, which we knew nothing of, by three
men who had pursued the thief and taken them from him. I know not, if they took this
trouble of their own accord, or by order of Otoo. I rewarded them, and made no farther
inquiry about it. These men, as well as some others present, assured me that it was one
of Maritata's people who had committed this theft ; which vexed mo that I had let his
canoes so easily slip through my fingers. Ilcro, I believe, both Tee and Oedidee designedly
deceived me.

When the musket and other things were brought in, every one then present, or who
came after, pretended to liave had some hand in recovering them, and claimed a reward
accordingly. Dut there was no one who acted this farce so well as Nuno, a man of some
note, and well known to us w;hen I was here in 17(>0. Tliis man came, with all the savago
fury imaginable in his countenance, and a large club in his hand, with which he beat about
him, in order to show us how he alone had killed the thief; when, at the same time, we all
knew that he had not been out of his house the whole time.

Thus ended this troublesome day ; and next morning early. Tec, Otoo's faithful ambas-
sador, came again on board, to acquaint me that Otoo was gone to Oparree, and desired
I would send a person (one of the natives, as I understood) to tell him that I was still his
jf/j/o, I asked him why he did not do this himself, as I had desired. He made some
excuse ; but I believe the truth was, he had not seen him. In short, I fomid it was
necessary for me to go myself; for while we thus spent our time in messages, we remained
without fruit, a stop being put to all exchanges of this nature ; that is, the natives brought
nothing to market. Accordingly, a party of us set out with Tee in our company, and
proceeded to the very utmost limits of Oparree, where, after waiting some considerable time,
and several messages having passed, the king at last made his ai)pearanee. After we were
seated imder the shade of some trees as usual, and the first salutations were over, he desired
me to paroii (that is, to 8i)eak). Accordingly, I began with blaming him for being
fi'ightencd and alarmed at what liad happened, since I had always professed myself his
friend, and I was not angry with him or any of his people, but with those of Tiarabou, who
were the thieves. I was then asked, how I came to fire at the canoes ? Chance, on this
occasion, furnished me with a good excuse. I told them, that they belonged to Maritata,
a Tiarabou man, one of whose people had stolen the musket, and occasioned all this
disturbance ; and if I had them in my power,I would destroy them, or any other belonging
to Tiarabou. This declaration jileased them, as I expected, from the natural aversion the
one king<lora has to the other. What I said was enforced by presents, which perhaps had
the greatest weight with them. Thus were things once more restored to their former state ;
and Otoo promised, on his part, that the next day we should be su])i)lied with fruit, &c.
as usual. We then returned with him to his proper residence at Oparree, and there took
a view of some of his dock-yards (for such they well deserved to bo called) and large canoes;
some lately built, and others building; two of which were the largest I had ever seen in
this sea, or indeed anywhere else, under that name. This done, we returned on board with
Tee in our company, who, after ho had dined with us, went to inform old Happi, the king's
father, that all matters were accommodated.

This old chief was at this time in the neighbourhood of Matavai, and it should seem, from
what followed, that he was not pleased with the conditions ; for that same evening, all the

(

; f Ih i

May, 1774.

J witli it tliu
ir altogi'tliiT,
il cuininitti'd.
)Ut execiitini;
liff, wlio liaJ
as Olio of Ilia
it as IVc and
jiift'ered tlium
■If no fartlier
1 it. Iiidei'd,
rouglit to tliu
of, by three
lioy took tliis
idc no farther
I at it was one
I had let hia
leo designedly

•sent, or wlio
nied a reward
man of some
all the savago
he heat about
e time, we all

lithful ambas-

e, and desired

I was still his

le made some

fonnd it was

, we remained

itives brought

ompanj', and

iderable time,

\.fter we were

or, he desired

im for being

?d myself his

'iarabou, who

lance, on this

to Maritata,

Dued all this

her belonging

aversion the

perhaps had

former state ;

ith fruit, &c.

lul there took

large canoes ;

ever seen in

n board with

pi, the king's

d seem, from
ening, all the

Mav, 1774. COOK'S SK( ONI) VOYACJK HOUXD THE WORLD.

471

women, which were not a few, were sent for out of the ship, and people stationed on
different parts of the shore to prevent any from coming off; and the next morning, no
supplies whatever being brouglit, on my inquiring into the reason, I was told Happi was
vinttiouril. Ciiagrined at this disappointnieut .is I wjis, I forbore taking any step, from
a supposition that Tee had not seen him, or that Otoo's orders had not yet readied Matavai.
A supply of fruit sent us from Oparree, and some brought us by our friends, served us for
tlie present, and made us less anxious about it. Thus matters stood till tlie afternoon, when
Otoo himself came to tlio tents with a largo 8up])ly. Thither I went, and expostulated
•with him for not permitting the jjcoplc in our neighbourhood to bring us fruit as usual,
insisting on his giving immediate orders about it, which he either did, or hail done before ;
for, presently after, more was brought us than we could well manage. This was not to bo
wondered at ; for the people had everything in readiness to bring the moment they were
permitted, and, I believe, thouglit themselves as much injured by tlie restriction as we did.
Otoo desiring to sec some of the great guns fire from the ship, I ordered twelve to bo
shotted, and fired towards the sea. As he had never seen a cannon fired before, the sight
gave him as much pain as pleasure. In the evening wo entertained him with fire-works,
which gave him great satisfaction.

Thus ended all our differences, on which I beg leave to suggest the following remarks : —
I have had occasion, in this journal before, to observe, that these people were continually
watching opportunities to rob us. Tiiis tlieir governors either encouraged, or had not power
to prevent ; but most prob.ably the former, because the offender was always screened.
That they should commit such daring thefts was the more extraordinary, as they frequently
ran the risk of being shot in the attempt ; and if the article that they stole was of any
consequence, they knew they should be obliged to make restitution. Tlio moment a theft
of this kind was committed, it spread like the wind over the whole neighbourhood. They
judged of the consequences from what they had got. If it were a trifle, and such an .article
as we usually gave them, little or no notice was taken of it ; but if the contrary, every ono
took the alarm, and moved off with his moveables in all haste. Tiie chief then was
inataoucd, giving orders to bring us no supplies, and flying to some distant part. All this
was sometimes done so suddenly, that we obtained, by these appearances, the first intel-
lirrence of our being robbed. AVhother we obliwd them to make restitution or not, the chief
must be reconciled before any of the people were permitted to bring in any refreshments.
They knew very well we could not do without them ; and, therefore, never failed strictly
to observe this rule, without ever considerinff that all their war canoes, on which tho
strength of their nation d-jpends, their houses, and even the very fruit they refused to supply
MS with, were entirely in our power. It is hard to say how they would act, were one to
destroy any of these things. Except the detaining some of their canoes for a while, I never
touched the least article of their property. Of the two extremes, I .always clioso that
which .appeared the most equit.able .and mild. A trifling present to the chief alw.ays
succeeded to my wish, and very often put things upon a better footing than they had been
before. That they were the first aggressors, had very little influence on my conduct in this
respect, because no difference h.ai)pened but when it w.as so. My people very rarely or
never broke through the rules I thought it necessary to prescribe. Had I observed
a different conduct, I must have been the loser by it in the end ; and .all I could expect,
after destroying some part of their property, would have been the empty honour of obliging
them to make the first overture towards an .accommodation. But who knows if this would
have been the event ? Three things made them our fast friends : their own good-naturo
and benevolent disposition ; gentle treatment on our part ; and the dread of our fire-arms.
By our ceasing to observe the second, the first would have worn out of course ; and the too
frequent use of the latter would have excited a spirit of revenge, and perhaps have taught
them that fire-arms were not such terrible things as they h.ad imagined. They were very
sensible of the superiority of their numbers ; and no one knows what an enraged multitude
might do.

i> I

! T'

III

ill

li.l

j I

I 1

472

COOK'S SiiCONU VOYAtJE HOUND THE WOULD.

M.w, 1771.

h <

' r

1 1

■■• ",

cnAPxrR xiir. — putpa rations to lkavk xiin island. — anotiif.u navai- ijkvikw, ani»

VAIUOCS OTIIKR INCinr.NTS ; WITH SOME ACCOVNT OF TUB ISIiAND, ITS NAVAL FolU K,
A.NI» NIMIIKU OF IXIIAIUTASTS.

In the niorninr; of the 1 Itli, a very largn supply of fruit was hrouglit to us from all parts.
Sonio of it came from Towlia, tlie admiral, siut as unual liy liis scrvautH, witli onlera to
receive iiotliiug in return. IJut he desired I wouM po and sec him at Attahourou, as ho
was ill, and could not eomo to me. As I could not well undert.ike this journey, I sent
Ocdidee, along with Towha's servants, with a present suitable to that which I had, in so
genteel a manner, received from him. As the most essential rejiairs of the ship were nearly
finished, I resolved to leave Otaheitc in a few days, and accordingly ordered everything to
be got off from the shore, that the natives might sec wo were .about to depart.

On the 12th, old Oberea, the woman who, when the Doljihin w.is here in 17fi7» was
thought to be queen of the island, and whom I had not seen since 17'»J*» psvid us a visit, and
brought us a i)restnt of hogs .and fruit. iSoon after came Otoo with a great retinue, .and a
large quantity of provisions. I was pretty liberal in my returns, thinking it might be the
last time I should see these good peojjlc wlio had so liberally relieved our wants ; .and in tho
evening entertained tliem with fire-works.

On the 13th, winds easterly, fair weather. Nevertheless, wc were not ready to sail, as
Otoo had made me ])romiso to sec him ag.ain, and I had a pres nt to make him, which I
reserved to the last. Oedidccwjis not yet como b.aek from Attahourou; v.arious reports
arose concerning him : some said he had returned to JMatavai ; others that he would not
return; and some would have it that ho was at Oparree. In order to know more of tho
truth, a party of us in the evening went down to Oparree, where we found him, and likewise
Towli.a, who, notwithstanding his illness, li.ad resolved to see me before I sailed, and had
gotten thus far on his journey. He was afflicted with a swelling in his feet .and legs, which
bad entirely taken away the use of them. As the day w.as far spent, we were obliged to
shorten our st.ay ; and after seeing Otoo, wc returned with Oedidee on board.

This youth, I found, was desirous of renmining at this isle, having before told him, as
likewise many others, that we should not return. I now mentioned to him that he was .at
liberty to remain here, or to quit us at Uliete.a, or to go with us to Enghand, frankly owning
that if he chose the latter, it was very probable he would never return to his country ; in
which case I would t.ake care of him, and he nnist afterwards look upon me as his father.
He threw his arms about me, and wept much, saying many peoi)lc persuaded him to remain
nt Otaheitc. I told him to go ashore .and speak to his friends, and then come to mc in the
morning. He was well beloved in the ship, so that every one was persuading him to go with
lis, telling him what great tilings ho would see in England, and tho immense riches (.accord-
ing to his idea of riches) ho would return v, 'th. But I thought proper to undeceive him,
as knowing that the only inducement to his ^,'oing was the expectation of returning, .and I
could sec no prospect of an opportunity of tl.at kind happening, imless a ship should bo
expressly sent out for that purpose ; whicl* neither I nor any one else had a right to
expect. I thought it .an act of the highest injustice to t.ake a person from these isles,
under any promise which it was not in my power to perform. At this time, indeed,
it w.as quite unnecessary, for many youths voluntarily offered themselves to go, and even
to remain and die in Pntance ; as they call our country. Otoo importuned me much
to take one or two to collect red feathers for him .at Amsterdam, willing to risk the chance
of their returning. Some of the gentlemen on bo.ard were likewise desirous of t.aking some
as serv.ants ; but I refused every solicitation of this kind, knowing, from experience, they
would be of no use to us in the course of tho voyage ; and farther my views were not
extended. Wh.at had the greatest weight with mc was, the thinking myself bound to see
they were afterwards properly taken care of, as they could not be carried from their native
spot without consent.

Next morning early, Oedidee came on board with a resolution to remain at the island ;

Mav, 1774. (OOKS SKCONI) V()YA(JI': KorND TIIK WOltF.I).

-tTM

l)iit Mr. Forf-tcr i)rt'vaili'(l upon liini to go with ih tolMioti-a. Sion iiftcr, Towlia, I'untatoii,
Oanio, llappi, Ohoroa, ami several niori' of our I'riiiuls, came on l)oaril with fniit, iSie.
Towha was hoistoil in, antl placid on a chair on the i|narter-(k(k ; hin wife was witli liiin.
Aniongwt the various artieles wliiih I yavc this ciiicf, was an I'.nglish juiulant, >vliich phased
him more than all the rest, especially after ho had heen instructed in the uso of it.

Wu had no sooner di«'iiatehi'd our friiiuls than we saw a nuniher of war canoes coming
round the jioint of Oparree, lleing <lesirous of having a nearer view of th( ni, aecompanifd
by some of the oHicers ami gentlemen, I ha>ti'netl down to < >parree, which we reached heforo
all the canoes were landed, and had an opjiortunity of seeing in what manner tiic y ajiproaelied
the shore. AVhen they got before the ])hice where they intended to laud, tin y formed
themselves into divisions, consisting of threi> or four, or ]>erha])s more, lashed scpiare and
close alongside of each other; and then each division, one after the other, jiaddled in for tlic
shore with all their might, and con(lucte<l in so judicious a manner, that they formed and
closed n line along the tihore to an inch. The rowers were encouraged to exert their
strength by their le.iders on the stages, and directed by a man who stood with a wand in
his hand in the fore i)art of the middlemost vessel. This man, by words and actions, directed
the jiaddlers when all should paildle, w hen either the one side or the other shoidd cease, iS:e.,
for the steering jiadilles alone were not sufhcient to direct them. All these motions they
observed with such quickness, as clearly showed them to be expert in their business. After
Mr. Hodges had made a draw ing of them, as they lay ranged along the shore, we hindcd,
and took a nearer view of them by going on board several. 'J'his fleet consisted of forty
sail, equipped in the same manner as tho^e we had seen before, belonged to the little district
of Tettaha, and were conu! to Oparree to be revieweil before the king, as the' former fleet
had been. There were attending on this lleet some small double canoes, which they called
Miirah, having on their fore part a kind of double lud-placo laiil over with green leaves, each
just sutlieicnt to hold one man. These, they told ns, were to lay their dead ujion ; their
chiefs I suppose they meant, otherwise their slain must be few. Otoo, who was present,
caused, at my request, some of the troops to go through their exercise on shore, 'i'wo
parties first began with clubs; but this was over almost as soon as begun, so that I had no
time to make my observations upon it. They then went to single cond)at, and exhibited
the various methods of fighting with great alertness, parrying ofl' the blows and pushes
which each cond)atant aimed at t'.ie -ther with great dexterity, 'i'heir arms were clubs and
spears ; the latter they also used as darts. In fighting with the club, .ill blows intended to
be given the legs were evaded by leai)ing over it ; and those intended for the head, by
couching a little, and leaping on one side ; thus the blow would fall to the ground. The
spear or dart was i)arried, by fixing the point of a si)ear in the ground right before them,
holding it in an inclined position, more or less elevated, according to the part of the body
they saw their antagonist intended to make a push, or throw his dart at, and by moving the
hand a little to the right or left, cither the one or the other was easily turned oil" w ith great
case. I thought that when one combatant had parried oft' the blows, &e., of the other, ho
did not use the advantage which seemed to me to accrue. As, for instance : after he had
parried oft" a dart, he still stood on the defensive, and suftV-red his antagonist to take up
another, when I thought there was time to run him through the body. These combatants
had no superfluous dress upon them ; an unnecessary piece of cloth or two which they had
on when they began, were presently torn oft' by the bystanders, and given to some of our
gentlemen present. This being over, the fleet departed, — not in any order, biit as fast as
they could be got afloat ; and we went with Otoo to one of his dock-yards, where the two
large pahies or canoes were building, each of which was a hundred and eight feet long :
they were almost ready to launch, and were intended to make one joint double puliie or
canoe. The king begged of me a grappling and rope, to which I added an English jack and
pendant (with the use of which he was well acquainted), and desired the ji^dite might bo
called Britannia. This he very readily agreed to, and she was named accordingly. After
this he gave me a hog, and a turtle of about sixty jiounds weight, which was ])ut privately
into our boat, the giving it away not being agreeable to some of the great lords about him,
who were thus deprived of a feast. He likewise would have given nic a large shaik they

i.i

474

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE llOl'ND THE WORLD.

Mav, 1774.

had prisoner in a croi-k (some of his fins hcing cut oft' so that ho could not make his escape),
hut tlic fine pork and fish we had got at this isle had spoiled our palates for such food. Tiio
kin;^, and his jninie minister Tee, accompanied us on hoard to dinner ; an 1 after it was over,
took a most affectionate farewell. lie hardly ever ceased solicitinjj me, tliis day, to return
to Otaheite ; and, jiist hefore he went out of the ship, took a youth hy the hand, and pre-
sented him to nie, desiring I would keep him on hoard to go to Amsterdam to collect red
feathers. I told him I could not, since I knew he would never return ; hut that, if any ship
should happen to come from Britain to this isle, I would either bring or send him red feathers
in abundance. This, in some measure, satisfied him ; but the youth w.as exceedingly desirous
of going, and, if I had not come to a resolution to carry no one from the isles (except Oedidee,
if he chose to go), and but just refused 3Ir. Torster the liberty of taking a boy, I believe I
should have consented. Otoo remained alonjrside in his canoo till wo were under sail, when
he put off, and was saluted with three guns.

Our treatment at this isle was such as had induced one of our gunner's mates to form a
plan to remain at it. lie knew ho could not execute it with success while wo lay in tho
bay, therefore took the opportunity, as soon as we were out, the boats in, and sails set, to
slip overboard, being a good swimmer : but he was discovered before ho got clear of tho
ship, and avc presently hoisted a boat out and took him up. A canoe was observed, about
half-way between us and the shore, seemingly coming after us ; she was intended to take him
up ; but iis soon as the people in her saw our boat, they kept at a distance. This was a
preconcerted i>Ian between the man and them, which Otoo was acquainted with, and had
encouraged. When I considered this man"'s situation in life, I did not think him so culpable,
nor the resolution he had taken of staying here so extraordinary, as it may at first appear.
He was an Irishman by birth, and had sailed in tho Dutch service. I picked him up at
Batavia on my return from my former voyage, and he had been with mo ever since. I
never learnt that ho had either friends or connexions to confine him to any particular part of
the world : all nations were alike to him ; where then could such a man be more happy than
at one of these isles ? where, in one of the finest climates in the world, ho could enjoy not
only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in ease and plenty. I know not, if he might
not have obtained my consent, if he had applied for it in proper time. As soon as we iiad
got him on board, and the boat in, I steered for Iluaheine, in order to pay a visit to our
friends there. But, before we leave Otaheite, it will bo necessary to give some account of
the preyent state of that island, especially as it differs very much from what it was eight
months before.

I have already mentioned the improvements we found in the plains of Oparreo and
jMa*avai. Tho same was observed in every other part into which we came. It seemed to
us almost incrc iible that so many large canoes and houses could be built in so short a
space as eight months. The iron tools which they had got from the English, and other
nations who have lately touched at the isle, had, no doubt, greatly accelerated tho work ;
and they have no want of hands, as I shall soon make appear, The number of hogs was
another thing that excited our wonder. Probably tliej' were iiot so scarce when wo were
here before as we imagined, and, not choosing to part with any, they had conveyed them
out of our sight. Be this as it may, we now not only got as many as wc could consume
during our atay, but some to take tc Pca with us.

When I V as last here, I conceived but an unfavourable opinion of Otoo's talents. The
improvements since made in the island convinced me of my mistake; and that he must be
a Plan of good parts. lie ha«, indeed, some judicious, sensible men about liim ; who, I
believe, linv^ a groat share in tho government. In truth, Ave know not how far his power
extends as king, nor how far he can command tho assistance of the other chiefs, or is con-
iroUablo by tl;cm. It should however seem, that all have contributed towards brining
the isle to its present flourishing state. AVe cannot doubt that there are divisions ai.iongst
tho great men of this state, as well as of mofit others; or else why did the king tell us that
Towha, the admiral, and Poatatou, were not his friends ? They were two leading chiefs ;
and he must be jealous of tlicm on account of their great power ; for on every occasion he
seemed to court their interest. Wc had reason to hellcvo that they had raised by far the

May, 1774,

COOK'S SECOND VOYAfJE ROUND THE MOULD.

475

greatest mnnber of vessels and men to go against Kimeo, and were to be two of the com-
manders in tlic expedition, wiiieh we were told was to take place five days after our
dej)art\ire. Walieatona, king of Tiarabou, was to send a fleet to join that of Otoo, to
assist him in reducing to obedience the chief of Kimeo. I think wj were told that
young prince was one of tlu; commanders. One would suppose that so small an island as
Eimeo would hardly have attempted to make head against the luiited force of these two
kingdoms, but have endeavoured to settle matters hy negotiation. Yet we heard of no
such thing ; on the contrary, every one spoke of nothing but fighting. Towha told us more
than once that he should die there; which, in some measure, shows what he thought of it.
Oedidee told me the battle would be fought at sea; in whieh case the other must have a
fleet nearly equal, if not quite, to the one going .igainst them ; which I think was not proha-
lle. It was therefore more likely they would remain ashore upon the defensive, as we were
'.old they did, about five or six years ago, whcki attacked by the people of Tiarabou whom
they repulsed. Five general ofiicers were to command in this expedition; of which number
Otoo was one; and, if they named them in order according to the posts they held, Otoo
was only the third in command. This seems probable enough, as being but a young nuui
he could not have sufficient experience to command such an expedition, where the greatest
skill and judgment seemed to be necessary.

I confess 1 would willingly have sta'd five days longer, had I been sure the expedition
would have then taken place ; but it rather seemed that they wanted ns to be gone first.
We had been all along told it would be ten moons before it took place ; and it was not till
the evening before we sailed, thr* Otoo r.nd Towha told us it was to he in five days after
we were gone, as if it were necessary io have that time to put everything in order; for
while wo lay there, great part of their time and attention was taken up with us. I had
observed that, for several days before we sailed, Otoo and the other cliiefs had ceased to
solicit my assistance, as they were continually doing at first, till I assured Otoo that, if
they got their fleet ready in time, I would sail with them down to Eimeo : after this I heard
no more of it. They ])robably had taken it into consideration, and concluded themselves
safer without me, well knowing it would be in my power to give the victory to whom I
pleased, and that, at the best, I might thwart some favourite custom, or run away with the
spLils. But be their reasons what t!iey might, they certainly wanted ns to be gone, before
the} uvidertook anything. Thus we were deprived of seeing the whole fleet e<|uipped on
this occasion, and perhaps of being spectators of a sea-fight, and by that means gaininf^'
some knowledge of their manoeuvres.

I never could h'arn what number of vessels were to go on this expedition. We knew of
no more than two hundred and ten, besides smaller canoes to serve as truiisj>orts, &e. and
the fleet of Tia'-abon, the strength of which we never learnt. Nor could I ever learn the
number of men necessary to man this fleet ; and whenever I asked the question, the aiisw cr
was, JVarou, tcavou, icaroa to Tata, that is, many, many, many men, as if the number far
exceeded their arithmetic. If we allow foily men to each war can )e, and four to each of
the others, which is thought a moderate eon)putation, the number will amount to nine
thousand: an astonishing number to be raised in four districts; and one of them, viz.
]Matavai, did not equip a fourth part of its fleet. The fleet of Tiarabou is not included in
this account ; and many other districts n jht be arming which we knew nothing of. 1,
however, believe that the whole isle did not arm on thi3 occasiim, for we saw not the least
preparations making in Oparree. From what wc saw and could learn, I am clearly of
opinion that the chief, or chiefs, of each district superintended the equipping of the fleet
belonging to that district ; but, after they are equipped, tl.ey must pass in review before the
king, and be approved of by him. By this means he knows the state of the whole, before
they assemble to go cm service.

It hath been already observed, that the number of war canoes belonging to Attahourou
and Ahopata was a hundred and sixty, to Tettaha finty, and to JIatavai ten, nnd tiiat
this district did not equip one-fourth part of their number. If we sni)pose cvet district in
the island, of which thei'o are forty-three to raise and equip the same number ol war canoes
as Tetitahii, we shall find, by this estimate, that the whole island can raise and equip one

if '

470

COOK'S SECOND VOVAGK KOUND THE WORLD.

M\\, 1774,

f* »

thousand seven linmlrej and twenty war canoe?, and sixty- ci^rlit tliousand able men, allow-
ing forty men to each canoe. And, as these cannot amount to ahove one-third part of tho
number of both sexes, children included, the whole island cannot contain less than two
hundred and foiu* thousand inhabitants ; a number whicli, at first si^ht, exceeded my belief.
But, when I canio to reflect on the vast swarms which ajijieared wherever wc came, I was
convinced that this estimate was not much, if at all, too frreat*. There cannot be a greater
proof of the richness and fertility of Otaheite (not forty le.igues in circuit) than its support-
ing such a number of inhabitants.

This island made formerly but one kingdom ; how long it has been divided into two, I
cannot pretend to say ; but I believe not long. The kings of Tiarabou arc a branch of the
family of those of Opoureonu ; at jjresent, the two arc nearly related ; and, I think, the
former is, in some measure, dependent on the latter. Otoo is styled Earcc de Me of the
whole island ; and wo have been told that Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, must uncover
before him, in the same manner as the meanest of his subjects. This homage is due to Otoo,
as E/i,re de hie of the isle, to Tarcvatou, his brother, and his second sister; to the one as
heir, and to the other as heir apparent ; his eldest sister being married, i.i not entitled to
this homacfc.

Tho Eowas and IVhannos we have sometimes seen covered before tlie king, but whether
by courtesy, or by virtue of their office, we never coidd learn. These inen, who are the
principal persons about the king, and form his court; are generally, if not always, his
relations. Tee, whom T have so often mentioned, was one of them. We iiavc been told
that the Eoiras, who have the first rank, attend in their tm'us, a certain number each day,
which occasioned us to call them lords in waiting ; but whether this was really so, I caiii! t
say. We seldom found Tee absent ; indeed bis attendance was necessary, as being i;
able to negotiate matters between us and them, on which service he was always cmi)loyed;
and he executed it, I have reason to believe, to the satisfaction of both parties.

It is to be regretted that we know little more of this government than the general out-
line; for, of its subdivisions, classes, or orders of tlic constituent jiarts, how disposed, or in
what manner connected, so as to form one body politic, wc know but little. We, however,
are sure that it is of the feudal kind ; and, if wc may judge f ro n what we have seen, it has
sufficient stability, and is by no means badly constructed. The Eoicas and Whnnnos always
cat with the king; indeed I do not know if any one is excluded from this privilege but tho
Tontoits. For as to the women, they are out of the question, as they never eat with the
men, let their rank be ever so nuich elevated.

Notwithstanding this kind of kingly establishment, there was very little about Otoo's
person or court by which a stranger could distinguisii the king from the subject, I seldom
saw him dressed in anything but a conmion piece of cloth wrapped round his loins ; so that
he seemed to avoid all unnecessary pomp, and even to demean 1 imself more than any other
of the Earces. I have seen him work at a paddle, in coming to and going from the ship, in
common with the other paddlers ; and even when some of his Teutons sat looking on. All
have free access to him, and speak to him wherever they see him, without tho leasi.
ceremony ; such is the easy freedom which every individual of this hajipy is'o enjoys. I
have observed that the chiefs of these isles are more beloved, by the bulk of tho people, than
feared. May wc not from hence conclude, that the government is mild and etpiitablc ?

* Mr. F'lis in liis Polyiicsiiin Ki'scarehos, vol. ii. p. 211,
lins the lOwinff ])iissiigo in ichitiiin to the popuhition ot"
Oliiheite : — " It is iinpossihle for any one wlio has visitcil
tliesc slioies, oi- triivoysi'd iiny one of tho districts, to enter-
tain tl'c slightest ilunht that the nnnihcr of inliubitnnts in
the Sdiuh .Sen Ulands v s fornieily mmli greater tlian at
preseni. Wliat tluir i.nnihor in any remote peiiod of
their I'istorv may liavf lieen it is nut eas^v to ascertain :

the numbers seen in one part. Captain Wilson's calcn-
lations, in 1797, made tlie population of Tahiti only about
llj,t)()(l; and not many years afterwards, the Missionaries
declared it as tlieii opinion tliat this island did not contain
more tlian 8CHJ0 souls ; and I cannot tliink that within tho
la>t thirty years it has tver contained fewer inliabitants.
The present number of natives is about 10,0(10." 'I'lierc
are ancient remains which indicate that formerly, tlio

C'a])tain Cook e^iiuiated those risiiling iu Tahiti at '200,0110. Society and olh?i neighbouring islands were far more

The (.'rounds, however, oii which he formed his cnnelusion densely populated than they were at the period at which

were certainly fallacious. The population was at all times they weie first visited by Europeans. Some further

so fugitive and uncertain, as to the proportion it bore to remarks ou this subject will bo found in the Appendix.

any section of geograpliiral suifai'e, that no correct infe- — Ed.
rcncc, ai to tho uuiouiit of the whole could be di~awu from

1771.

May, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

477

en, alldw-
)art of tho
than two
my belief.
Tiie, I was
; a ('•"'■■•iter
s supjioit-

11 to two, I
iicli of the
tliink, the
; hie of tho
ist uncover
le to Otoo,
the one as
entitled to

lit whether
rho arc the
ilways, his
been told
r each day,
I), I canii jt
being b -t
employed ;

;eneral ont-
posed, or in
p, however,
seen, it has
nos always
(jc bnt tho
with tho

out Otoo's
I seldom
; so that
any other
ic ship, in
on. All
the 'erisv,
nijoys. I
lople, than
iblc?

ilson's Ciilcii-
ti only iilioiit

Missiouiiiiis
(1 not coiitiiiii
at williiu tlio

iiihiiliituiits.
DO." 'I'liero
irnii'ily, tlio
■re t';ir iiioro
lioil at wliicli
loiiie fuitlitr
|o Appciulix.

Wo have mentioned that AVaheatoua of Tiabaron is related to Otoo. Tho same may bo
said of tlio 'liefs of Eimeo, Tapamannoo, lluahelne, Ulietea, Otaha, and Rolalxila; for they
arc all related to the royal family of Otaheite. It is a maxim with the J-'.ari ''•.■••, and others
of superior rank, never to intermarry with the Touto'm, or others of inferior rank.
Probably this custom is one great inducement to the cstablisliment of these societies called
Eareeoies. It is certain that these societies greatly prevent the increase of tlie superior
classes of people, of which they arc composed, and do not at all interfere with the inferiors
or Toutous ; for I never heard of oii" of these being an E'lnvni/. Nor did I ever liear that
a Toutoii could rise in life above the rank in wliieh lie was born.

I have occasionally mentioned ^lie extraordinary fondness the people of Otaheite showed
for red feathers. Tlie!«e they call Oora, and they are as valuable here as jewels are in
I'urope, especially those which they call Oraclnc, and grow on the head of the green parro-
quet : .all red feathers are, indeed, esteemed, but none equally with these ; and they are such
good judges as to know very well how to distinguish one sort from another. 3Iany of our
people attempted to deceive tliem, by dyeing other feathers ; but I never heard tli.at any one
succeeded. These feathers they make up in little bunches, consisting of eight or ten, and fix
them to the end of a small cord about three or four inches long, which is made of the strong
outside fibres of the cocoa-nut, twisted so hard, that it is like a wire, and serves as a handle
to the bunch. Thus prepared, they are used as symbols of the luitu.is, or divinities, in all
their religious ceremonies. I have often seen them hold one of these bunches, and sontetimes
only two or three feathers, between the fore-finger and thumb, and say a ]>rayer, not one
word of which I could over understand. Whoever comes to this island will do well to
provide himself with red feathers, the finest and smallest that arc to be got. lie must also
have a good stock of axes and hatchets, spike-nails, files, knives, lookiitg-glasse.i, beads, &e.
Sheets and shirts arc much sought after, especially by the ladies ; as many of our gentlemen
found by experience.

The two goats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when wc were last here, seemed to
promise fair for answering the end for which they were put on shore. The ewe soon after
had two female kids, which were now so far grown as to be nearly ready to propagate ; and
the old owe was again with kid. The people seemed to be very fond of them, and they to
like their situation as well ; for they were in excellent condition. From this circumstance,
wc may hope that, in a few years, they will have some to spare to their neighbours ; and, by
that means, they may in time spread over all the isles in this ocean. Tiie sheep which wo
left, died soon after, excepting one, which we u. derstood was yet .alive. We have also
furnished them with a stock of cats ; no less than twenty having been given away at this
isle, besides what were left at Ulietea and Ilualieine.

■"nAPTER XIV. THE AURIVAL OF THE SHIP AT TIIE ISLAND OF IIUAIIF.IXE ; WITH AN

ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION INTO THE ISLAND, AND SEVERAL UTilER INCIDENTS WIlICIl
HAPPENED WHILE SHE LAY THERE.

At one o'clock in tho afternoon on tho 15th, wc anchored in the north entrance of
O'Wharre harbour, in the island of Ilnaheinc ; hoisted out the boats, warped into a proper
berth, nnd moored with the bower and kcdge aii^hor, not quite a cable's length from the
shore. While this was doing, several of the natives made us a visit, .amongst whom was old
Oreo, the chief, who brought a hog, and some other articles, which he presented to me, with
the usua) ceremony.

Next n.'orning, the natives began to bring us fruit. I returned Oreo's visit, and made my
present to him ; one article of which was red feathers. Two or three of these the chief took
in his right hand, holding them up between the finger and thumb, and said a prayer, as I
understood, which was little noticed by any present. Two hogs were, soon after, put into
my boat ; and he, and several of his friends, came on board, and dined with us. After
dinner Oreo gave me to understand what articles would be most acei'|)table to him and his
friends ; which were chiefly axes and nails. Accordingly I gave him what he asked, and

(

I i

i M

471)

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE IIOUXD THE WORLD. iMay, 1774.

( 1

■^

ilcsircd ho would distribute them to the others, wliich he did, seemingly to the satisfaction
of every one. A youth about ten or twelve years of age, eitiicr his son or grandson, seemed
to bo the person of most note, and had the greatest share. After the distribution was over,
they all returned ashore. Air. Forster and liis party being out in the country botanising, liis
servant, a feeble man, was beset by five or six fellows, who would have stripped him, if,
that moment, one of the party had not come to his assistance ; after which, they made off
with a hatchet they had got from him.

On the 1 7th I went asiiore to look for the chief, in order to complain of the outrage com-
mitted as above ; but he was not in the neighbourhood. Being ashore in the afternoon, a
person came and told me Oreo wanted to see me. I went with the man, and was conducted
to a large house, where the chief, and several other persons of note, were assembled, in
council, as well as I could understand. After I was seated and some conversation had
passed among them, Oree made a speech, and was answered by another. I understood no
more of either, than just to know it regarded the robbery committed the day before. The
chief then began to assure me, that neither he, nor any one present (who were the prin-
cipal cliiefs in the neighbourhood) had any hand in it ; and desired me to kill, with the guns,
all those which had. I assured him that I was satisfied that neither he, nor those present,
were at all concerned in the affair ; and tliat I should do with the fellows as he desired, or
any others who where guilty of the like crimes. Having asked where the fellows were, and
desired they would bring tl.. i ' ^ p>'> that I might do with them as he had said ; his answer
was, they were gone to the ni< s, and he could not get them. Whether this was the

case or not, I will not pretend to . I knew fair means '.vould never make them deliver
them up; and 1 had no intention to try others. So the affair dropt, .and the council
broke up.

In the evening, some of the gentlemen went to a dramatic entertainment. The piece
represented a girl as running away with us from Otalieite ; which was in some degree true ;
as a young woman had taken a passage with us down to Ulietea, and happened now to bo
present at the representation of her own adventures ; which had such an effect upon her,
tiiat it was with great difficulty our gentlemen could prevail upon her to see the play out,
or to refrain from tears while it was acting. The piece concluded wi^ii the reception she
was 8up])osed to meet with from her friends at her return ; which was not a very favourable
one. These people can add little extempore pieces to their entertainments when they see
occasion. Is it not then reasonable to suppose that this was intended as a satire against this
girl, and to discourage others from following her steps ?

In the morning of the 18th Oree came on board with a present of fruit, stayed dinner,
and in the afternoon desired to see some great guns fired, shotted, which I complied with.
The reason of his making this request was his hearing, from Oedidec and our Otaheiteaii
passengers, that we had so done at their island. The chief would have had us fire at the
hills ; but I did not approve of that, lest the shot should ftvll short, and do some mischief.
Besides, the effect was better seen in the water. Some of the petty officers, who had leave
to go into the country for their amusement, took two of the natives with tliem to be their
guides, and to carry their bags, containing nails, hatchets, &c., the current cash we traded
with here; which the fellows made off with in the following artful manner: — The gentlemen
had with them two muskets for shooting birds. After a shower of rain, their guides
pointed out some for them to shoot. One of the muskets having missed fire several times,
and the other having gone off, the instant the fellows saw themselves secure from both, they
ran away, leaving the gentlemen gazing after them with so much surprise, that no one had
presence of mind to pursue the

The 19th, showery morning ; fair afternoon ; nothing happened worthy of note. Early
in the morning of the 20th, tlirce of the officers set out on a shooting party, rather contrary
to my inclination ; as I found the natives, at least some of them, were continually watching
every opportunity to rob straggling parties, and were daily growing more darinf. About
three o'clock in the afternoon, I got intelligence that they were seized and stripped of every-
thing they had about them. Upon this I immediately went on shore with a boat's crew,
accompanied by Mr. Forster, and took possession of a largo house with all its effects, and

Iay, 1774.

latisfaction
)n, seciiK'cl
was over,
,nising, liis
d liiin, if,
j^ made oft"

trage com-
fternoon, a

conducted
lembled, in
sation had
lerstood no
sforc. The
; the prin-
li the guns,
oso present,

desired, or
s wore, and

his answer
his was the
liem deliver
the cowncil

The piece
legree true ;
d now to be
;t upon her,
ihc play out,
'ception she
favourable
len they see
against this

lycd dinner,
iplied with.
Otaheiteau
s fire at the
ne mischief,
lo had leave
to be their
1 we traded
gentlemen
eir guides
Iveral times,
both, they
no one had

lote. Early
cr contrary
y watching
About
d of every-
oat''s crew,
effects, and

,\Y, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOVAGE ROUND THE \VORLD.

470

two chiefs, whom I found in it ; but this we did in such a manner that they hardly knew
wliat we were about, beiu:; imwilliug to alarm the neiglibdurhood. In tliis situation I
remained till I heard the oihcers had got back safe, and liad all their things restored to them :
then 1 quitted the house ; and presently after everything in it was curried oft". When I
got on board, I was informed of the whole aft'air by tlie othcers themselves. Some little
insult on their part induced the natives to seize their gims, on wliicli a scuftlo ensued some
chiefs interfered, took the officers out of the crowd, and caused everjtliing wliich haa been
taken from them to be restored. This was at a place wliere we had before been told, that
a bet of fellows had formed themselves into a gang, with a resolution to rob every one wi;o
should go that way. It should seem, from what followed, that the chief could not j)revent
this, or put a stop to these repeated outrages. I did not see him this evening, as lie was
not come into the neighbourhood when I went on board ; but I learnt from Oedidee that he
came soon after, and was so connerned at what had happened that he wept. Daylight no
sooner broke upon us on the 21st, than wc saw upwards of sixty canoes under sail going
out of the harbour, and steering over for Ulietea. On our inquiring the reason, we were
told that the people in them were Eoreeoics, and were going to visit their brethren in the
neighbouring isles. One may almost compare these men to freemasons ; they tell us they
assist each other when need requires ; they seem to liavc customs among them which they
either will not or cannot explain. Oedidee told us he was one ; Tupia was one ; and yet
I have not been able to get any tolerable idea of this set of men from either of them.
Oedidee denies that the children they have by their mistresses arc put to death, as we
understood from Tu])ia and others. I have had some conversation with Omai on this
subject, and find that he confirms everything that is said upon it in the narrative of my
former vovasie *.

Oedidee, who generally slept on shore, came oft' with a message from Orce, desiring I
would land with twenty-two men, to go with him to chastise the robbers. The messenger
brought with him, by way of assisting his memory, twenty-two pieces of leaves, a method
customary amongst them. On my receiving this extraordinary message, I went to the chief
for better information ; and all I coidd learn of him was, that these fellows were a sort of
banditti, who had formed themselves into a body with a resolution of seizing and robbing
our people wherever they found them, and were now armed for that purpose ; for which
reason he wanted me to go along with him to chastise them. I told him, if I went, they
would fly to the mountains ; but he said they were resolved to fight us, and therefore desired
I would destroy both them and their house ; but begged I would spare those in the neigh-
bourhood, as also the canoes and the Whenooa. By way of securing these, he presented me
with a pig as a peace-ofl«ring for the Whenooa. It was too small to be meant for anything
but a ceremony of this kind. This sensible old chief could see (what, perhaps, none of the
others ever thought of) that everything in the neighbourhood was at our mercy, and there-
fore took care to secure them by this method, which I suppose to be of weight with them.
When I returned on board, I considered of the chief's request, which, upcm the whole,
appeared an extraordinary one. I, however, resolved to go, lest these fellows should be (by
our refusal) encouraged to commit greater acts of violence ; and, as their proceeding would
soon reach • 'etea, where I intended to go next, the people there might be induced to treat
us in the same manner, or worse, they being more numerous. Accordingly, I landed with
forty-eight men, including oflicers, IVIr. Forster, and some others of the gentlemen. The
chief joined us with a few people, and we began to march, in search of the banditti, in good
order. As we proceeded, the chief's party increased like a snow-ball. Oedidee, who was
with us, began to be alarmed, observing that many of the people in our company were of the
very party we were going against, and at last telling us that they were only leading us to
some place where they could attack us to advantage. Whether there was any truth in this,
or it was only Oedidee's fears, I will not pretend to say ; he, however, was the only person
we could confide in, and we regulated our motions according to the information he had given
us. After marching some miles, wc got intelligence that the men we were going after had
fled to the mountains ; but I think this was not till I had declared to the chief I would
• For a full actoiiiit of the constitution of the Arcois see the Appcnilix. — Eu.

!■: H

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400

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1774.

proceed no farther ; for wo wore tlien about crossing a deep valley, bounded on cacli side by
steep rocks, where a few men, with stones only, might have made our retreat difficult, if
their intentions were wli;it Oedidee had suggested, and which he still persisted in. Having
come to a resolution to return, we marched back in the same order as wc went, and saw, in
several places, people, who had been following us, coming down from the sides of the hills
with their arms in their hands, which tliey instantly quitted, and hid in the bushes, when
they saw they were discovered by us. This seemed to prove that there must have been some
foundation for what Oedidee had said ; but I caimot believe the chief had any such design,
whatever the i)eoplo might have. In our return, we halted at a convenient place to refresh
ourselves. I ordered the peoj^c to bring us some cocoa nuts, winch they di ' immediately ;
indi^'cd, by th's time, I believe many of them wished us on board out of the way ; for although
no one step was taken that could give them the least alarm, they certainly were in terror.
Two chiefs brought each of them a i)ig, a dog, and some young plantain trees, the usual
])eace-ofterings, and, with due ceremony, presented them singly to me. Another brought a
very large liog, with which he followed us to the ship. After this wc continued our course
to tlie landing-place, where I caused several volleys to bo fired, to convince the natives that
wc could support a continual fire. This being done, we all embarked and went on board ;
and soon after tlic chief, following, brought with liini a quantity of fruit, and sat down with
us to dinner. AVe had scarce dined, before more fruit was brought us by others, and two
liogs ; so tliat we were likely to make more by this little excursion than by all the presents
we had made them. It certainly gave them some alarm to sec so strong a party of men
march into their country, and probably gave them a better opinion of fire-arms than they
had before ; for I believe they had but an imlifferent, or rather contemptible, idea of muskets
in general, having never seen any fired but at birds, &c., by such of our people as used to
straggle about the country, the most of them but indifferent marksmen, losing generally two
shots out of three, their pieces often nussing fire, and being slow in charging. Of all this
they had taken great notice, and concluded, as well they might, that firc>aruis were not so
terrible things as they had been taught to believe.

When the chiefs took leave in the evening, they promised to bring us the next day a very
large supply of provisions. In the ai-ticlc of fruit they were as good as their word ; but of
hogs, which we most wanted, they brought far less than we expected. Going ashoro in the
afternoon, I found the chief just sitting down to dinner. I cannot say what was the occa-
sion of his dining so late. As soon as he was seated, several people began chewing the
pepper-root ; about a pint of ♦he juice of which, without any mixture, was the fi' st dish,
and was despatched in a moment. A cup of it was presented to me, but the manner of
brewing it was at this time sufficient. Oedidee was not so nice, but took what I refused.
After this the chief washed his mouth with cocoa-nut water ; then ho ate of repe, plantain,
and mahee, of each not a little ; and, lastly, finished his repast by eating, or rather drinking,
about three pints of popoie, which is made of bread-fruit, plantains, mahee, &c., beat together,
and diluted with water till it is of the consistence of a custard. This was at the outside of
his house, in the open air ; for at this time a play was acting within, as was done almost
every day in the neighbourhood ; but they were such poor performances that I never
attended. I observed that, after the juice had been squeezed out of the chewed pepper-root
f(jr the chief, the fibres were carefully picked up and taken away by one of his servants. On
my asking what he intended to do with it, I was told he would put water to it, and strain
it again. Thus he would make what I will call small beer.

The 23d, wind easterly, as it had been ever since we left Otaheite. Early in the morning
we unmoored, and at eight weighed and put to sea. The good old chief was the last man
who went out of the ship. At parting I told him we should see each other no more ; at
which ho wept, and said, " Let your sons come ; we will treat them well." Oreo is a good
man, in the utmost sense of the word ; but many of the people are far from being of that
disposition, and seem to take advantage of his old age, Teraderre, his grandson and heir,
being yet but a youth. The gentle treatment the people of this isle ever met with from me,
and the careless and imprudent manner in which many of our people had rambled about in
the country, from a vain opinion that fire-arms rendered them invincible, encouraged many

May, 1774.

Lcli side by
difficult, if
, Having
md saw, in
[)f the hills
«hc9, when
) been some
uch design,
e to refresh _
iinediately :
or although
re in terror.
i, the usual
• brought a
1 our course
natives that
it on board ;
i down with
jrs, and two
the presents
arty of men
is than they
a of muskets
Ic as used to
cncrally two
Of all this
1 were not so

ft day a very
vord ; but of
vshoro in the
vas the occa-
chewing the
lie fi' 3t dish,
manner of
t I refused.
)e, plantain,
drinking,
leat together,
lie outside of
done almost
hat I never
pepper-root
brvants. On
;, and strain

Ithe morning
Ithe last man
10 more ; at
is a good
Icino; of that
pn and heir,
tth from me,
[led about in
[raged many

May, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

481

at Huaheinc to commit acts of violence, which no man at Otahcito ever durst attempt.
During our stay hero wo got bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c., more tlian we could well consume,
but not hogs cnougli by far to supply our daily expense ; and yet it did not appear that they
were scarce in the isle. It must, however, be allowed, that the number we took away, when
last here, must have thinned them greatly, and at the same time stocked the isle with our
articles. Besides, we now wanted a projier assortment of trade ; wliat wo had being nearly
exhausted, and the few remaining red featiieis being liere but of little value, when eomiiared
to the estimation they stand in at Otaheitc. This obliged me to set the smiths to work, to
make difl'erent sorts of iron tools, nails, ike, in order co enable me to procure refreshments
at the other isles, and to support my credit and influence among the natives.

CIIAPTEn XV. ARRIVAL AT ULIETEA, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP THE UECEPTION WE MET

WITH THERE, AND THE SEVERAL INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED DUUl.NG OUR STAY.
A REPORT OF TWO SHIPS HE1NO AT HUAHEINE. PREPARATIONS TO LEAVE THE ISLAND,
AND THE REGRET THE INHAItlTANTS SHOWED ON THE OCCASION. THE CHARACTER OF
OEDIDEE, AVITH SOME GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE ISLANDS.

As soon as we were clear of the harbour, we made sail, and stood over for the south end
of Ulictea. Oree took the opportunity to send a man with a message to Opoony. Heing
little wind all the latter part of the day, it was dark before we reached the west side of the
isle, where we spent the night. The same light variable wind continued till ten o'clock
next morning, when the trade-wind at east prevailed, and we ventured to ply up to tlio
harbour, first sending a boat to lie in anchorage in the entrance. After making a few
trips, we got before the channel, and witii all our sails set, and the head-way the ship had
acquired, shut her in as far as she would go ; then dropped the anclior, and took in the sails.
This is the method of getting into most of the harbours which are on the lee-side of these
isles ; for the channels, in general, are too narrow to ply in. We were now anchored
between the two points of the reef which form the entrance ; each not more than two-thirds
the length of a cable from us, and on which the sea broke with such height and violence, as,
to people less acquainted with the place, would have been terrible. llaving all our boats
out with anchors and warps in them, which were presently run out, the ship warped into
safety, where we dropped anchor for the night. While this work was going forward, my
old friend Oreo the chief, and several more, came to see us. The chief came not empty.

Next day we warped the ship into, and moored her in, a proper berth, so as to command
all the shores around ns. In the mean time a p.arty of us went ashore to pay the chief a
visit, and to make the customary present. At our first entering his house, wo were
met by four or five old women, weeping and lamenting, as it were, most bitterly, and at
the same time cutting their heads with instruments made of sharks' teeth, till the blood ran
plentifully down their faces and on their shoulders. What was still worse, we were obliged
to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that means were all besmeared with
blood. This ceremony (for it was merely such) being over, they went out, washed them-
selves, and immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company. Having made
some little stay, and given my present to the chief and his friends, he put a hog and some
fruit into my boat, ard came on board with us to dinner. In the afternoon, we had a vast
number of people and canoes about us, from different parts of the island. They all took up
their quarters in our neighbourhood, where they remained feasting for some days. We
understood the most of them were Eareoi/s.

The 26tli afforded nothing remarkable, excepting that Mr. Forstcr, in his botanical
excursions, saw a burying-place for dogs, which they called Marai no te Gore. But, I think,
we ought not to look upon this as one of their customs ; because few dogs die a natural death,
being generally, if not always, killed and eaten, or else given as an offering to the gods.
Probably this might be a Marai or altar, where this sort of offering was made ; or it mi<ilit
have been the whim of some person to have buried his favourite dog in this manner. But

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482

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1774.

I I

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be it as it will, I cannot tliink it is a general custom in the nation ; and, for my own part,
I ncitliiT saw nor heard of such a thing before.

Early in the morning of the 27th, Oreo, his wife, son, daughter, and several more of his
friends, made us a visit and brouglit with them a good quantity of all manner of refresh-
ments ; little having as yet been got from anyl)ody else. They staid dinner ; after which
a party of us accompanied them on shore, where we were entertained with a play, callQd
Miitiifi/ij Iltirramj/, which signifies the C/iild is comitii/. It concluded with the representation
of a woman in labour, acted by a set of great brawny fellows, one of whom at last brought
forth a strai>ping boy, about six feet high, who ran about tho stage, dragging after him a
large wisp of straw which hung by a string from his middle. I had an opportunity of
seeing this acted another time, when I observed, that the moment they had got hold of the
fellow who represented the child, they flattened or pressed his nose. From this I judged
that they do so by their children when born, which mny bo the reason why all in general
have flat noses. This part of the play, from its newness, and the ludicrous manner in which
it was performed, gave us, the first time we saw it, some entertainment, and caused a loud
laugh, which might be the reason why they acted it so often afterwards. But this, like all
their other pieces, could entertain us no more than once ; especially as we could gather littlo
from tliem, for want of knowing more of their langujige.

The SJJth was sjient by me in much the same manner as the preceding day, viz., in
entertaining my friends, and being entertained by them ; Mr. Forster and his party in the
country botanising. Next morning, we found several articles had been stolen out of our
boats lying at the buoy, about sixty or seventy yards from the ship. As soon as I was
informed of it, I went to the chief to acquaint him therewith. I found that he not only
knew they were stolen, but by whom, and where they were ; and he went immediately with
me in my boat in pursuit of them. After proceeding a good way along shore, towards tho
south end of the island, the chief ordered us to land near some houses, where we did not
wait long before all the articles were brought to us, except the pinnace's iron tiller, which

was told was still farther off. But, when I wanted to go after it, I found tho chief
unwilling to proceed ; and he actually gave me the slip, and retired into the country.
Without him I knew I could do notliing. Tlic people began to be alarmed when they saw
I was for going farther ; by which I concluded that the tiller was out of their reach also. I
therefore sent one of them to the chief to desire him to return. He returned accordingly ;
when we sat down, and had some victuals sot before us ; thinking perhaps that, as I had
not breakfasted, I must be hungry, and not in a good humour. Thus I was amused till two
hogs were produced, which they entreated me to accept. This I did, and then their fears
vanished ; and I thought myself not ill off in having gotten two good hogs for a thing which
seemed to be quite out of my reach. Matters being thus settled, we returned on board, and
had the conipany of the chief and his son to dinner. After that we all went ashore, where
a play was acted for the entertainment of such as would spend their time in looking at it.
Besides these plays, which the chief caused frequently to be acted, there were a set of
strolling players in the neighbourhood, who performed every day. But their pieces seemed
to be so much alike, that we soon grew tired of them ; especially as we could not collect
any interesting circumstances from them. We, our ship, and our country, were frequently
brought on the stage ; but on what account I know not. It can hardly be doubted that
this was designed as a compliment to us, and probably not acted but when some of us were
present. I generally appeared at Oreo's theatre towards the close of the pl.ay, and twice
at the other, in order to give my mite to the actors. The only actress at Oreo's theatre was
his daughter, a pretty brown girl, at whose shrine, on these occasions, many offerings were
made by her numerous votaries. This, I believe, was one great inducement to her father's
giving us these entertcainments so often.

Early in the morning of the .30th, I set out with the two boats, accompanied by the two
Mr. Forsters, Ocdidee, the chief, his wife, son, and daughter, for an estate which Oedidcc
called his, situated at the north end of the island. There I was promised to have hogs and
fruit in abundance ; but when we came there we found that poor Ocdidee could not command
one single thing, whatever right he might have to the fV/ienooa, which was now in possession

I ' M

May, 1774.
own part,

norc of his
of refresh-
iftcr which
play, calkd
)re9cntation
ast brought
iftcr him a
lortunity of
hoUl of tlie
Ills I judged
[ in general
ner in which
luscd a loud
this, like all
gather littlo

lay, viz., in
party in the
1 out of our
jn as I was
he not only
ediately with
, towards tho
ro we did not
I tiller, which
Lind the chief
the country,
hen they saw
reach also. I
accordingly ;
lat, as I had
nused till two
en their fears
a thing which
on board, and
ashore, where
looking at it.
/ere a set of
pieces seemed
d not collect
jre frequently
doubted that
ne of us were
ly, and twice
s theatre was
fferings were
io her father's

Id by the two
Irhich Oedidcc
lave hogs and
Inot command
in possession

May, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

488

of his brother, who, soon after wo landed, presented to mo, with the usual ceremony, two pigs.
I made him a very handsome present in return, and Oedidec gave him every thing ho had
left of what ho had collected the time ho was with us.

After this ceremony was over, I ordered one of the pigs to bo killed and dressed for
dinner, and attended myself to the whole operation, which was as follows : — They first
strangled the liog, wliich was done by three men ; tlio hog being placed on his back, two of
them laid a pretty strong stick across his throat, and pressed with all their weight on eacli
ond ; the third man held his hind legs, keptt him on his back, and plugged up his fundament
with grass, I suppose to prevent any air from passing or repassing that way. In this
manner they held him for about ten minutes before ho was quite dead. In the mean time,
some hands were employed in making a fire, to beat the oven, which was close by. As
soon as the hog was quite dead, they laid him on the fire, and burnt or singed the hair, so
that it came off with almost the same case as if it had been scalded. As the hair was got
off one part, another was applied to the fire till they had got off the whole, yet not so clean
but that another operation was necessary ; wliich was to carry it to tho sea-side, and there
give it a good scrubbing with sandy stones, and sand. This brought off all the scurf &c.
which the fire had left on. After well washing off the sand and dirt, the carcase was brought
again to the former place, and laid on clean green leaves, in order to be opened. They first
ripped up the skin of tho belly, and took out tho fat or lard from between the skin and tho
flesh, which they laid on a large green leaf. The belly was then ripped open, and tho
entrails taken out and carried away in a basket, so thcit I know not what became of them ;
but am certain they were not thrown away. Tho blood was next taken out and i)ut into a
large leaf, and tiien the lard, which was put to the other fat. The hog was now washed
clean, both inside and out, with fresh water, and several hot stones put into his belly, which
were shaken in under the breast, and green leaves crammed in upon them. By this time
the oven was sufficiently he.ited ; what fire remained was taken away, together with some
of the hot stones ; the rest made a kind of pavement in the bottom of the hole or oven, and
were covered with leaves, on which the hog was placed on his belly. The lard and fat, after
being washed with water, were put into a vessel, made just then of the green bark of a
plantain tree, together with two or three hot stones, and placed on one side the hog. A hot
stone was put to the blood, which was tied up in the leaf, and put into the oven ; as also
bread-fruits and plantains. Then the whole was covered with green leaves, on which were
laid the remainder of the hot stones ; over them were leaves ; then any sort of rubbish they
could lay their hands on ; finishing the operation by well covering tho whole with earth.
While the victuals were baking, a table was spread with green leaves on the floor, at one end
of a large boat-house. At the close of two hours and te>' imites, the oven was opened,
and all the victuals taken out. Those of the natives who dmed with us, sat down by tliom-
sclves, at one end of the table, and we at the other. The hog was placed before us, and tho
fat and blood before them, on which they chiefly dined, and said it was Mamiti/, very good
victuals ; and we not only said, but thought the same of the pork. The hog weighed about
fifty pounds. Some parts about the ribs I thought rather overdone j but the more fleshy
parts were excellent ; and the skin, which by our way of dressing can hardly be eaten, had,
by this method, a taste and flavour superior to any thing I ever met with of the kind. I
have now only to add, that during the whole of the various operations, they exhibited a
cleanliness well worthy of imitation. I have been the more particular in this account,
because I do not remember that any one of ushrd seen the whole process before; nor is it
well described in the narrative of my former voyage.

While dinner was preparing, I took a view of this Whenooa of Oedidee. It was small,
but a pleasant spot ; and the houses were so disposed as to form a very pretty village, which
is very rarely the case at these isles. Soon after we had dined, we set out for the ship, with
the other pig, and a few races of plantains, which proved to be the sum total of our great
expectations. In our relnrn to the ship, we put ashore at a place where, in the corner of a
house, we saw four wooden images, each two feet long, standing on a shelf, having a piece
of cloth round their middle, and a kind of turban on their heads, in which were stuck long
cocks* feathers. A person in the bouse told us they were EatiM no te Toutou, gods of the

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COOK'S SKCOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

May, 1774.

:nf

servants or slaves. I doubt if tins bo sufficient to condudo tliat tbey pay tbeni divino
worsbij), and that tbe servants or slaves arc not allowed tlie same pods as men of nioro
elevated rank. I never beard tliat Tujiia made any sueli distinction, or tliat tliey worsliippcd
any visible tbing wbatevcr. Besides, tbese were tbe first wooden gods we bad seen in any
of tbe isles ; and all tbe autbority we bad for tbeir being sucb was tbe bare word of perbiips
n superstitious person, and wbom we were likewise liable to misunderstand. It must Oo
allowed tbat tbe people of tbis isle are, in general, more su])erstitious tban at Otabeite. At
tbe first visit I made tbe cbief after our airival, be desired I would not suffer any of my
people to sboot berons and woodpeckers; birds as sacred witb tbeni as robin-redbreasts,
swallows, &c. are witb n»any old women in England. Tupia, wbo was a priest, and well
acquainted witb tbeir religion, customs, traditions, &c., paid little or no regard to tbese birds.
I mention tbis because some amongst us were of opinion tbat tbese birds are tbeir Eatitas,
or gods. "NVc, indeed, fell into tbis opinion wbcn I was bere in 1709, and into some otbers
still more absurd, wbicb we bad undoubtedly adopted if Tupia bad not undeceived us. A
run of bis knowledge and understanding we bave not since met witb, and consequently
have added notbing to bis account of tbeir religion, but sujierstitious notions.

Tbe people, knowing tbat we sbould sail soon, began, on tbe .31 st, to bring on board more
fruit tban usual. Amongst tbose wbo came was a young man wbo measured six feet four
incbes and six-tcntbs; and bis sister, younger tban be, measured five feet ten inebes and
a balf. A brisk trade for bogs and fruit continued on tbe 1st of June. On tbe 2d, in tbe
afternoon, we got intelligence tbat, tbree days before, two sbipsbad arrived at Iluabeine.
Tbe siim J report said tbe one wivs commanded by Mr. Banks, and tbe otlier by Captain
Furneaux. Tbe man wbo brouobt tbe account said be was made drunk on board one of
tbem, and described tb persons of Mr. Banks and Captain Furneaux so well, tbat I bad
not tbe least doubt of ibe trutb, and began to consider about sending a boat over tbat very
evening, witb orders to Ca)itain Furneaux, wben a man, a friend of Mr. Forster, happened
to come on board, and denied tbe wbole, saying it was wa tt-arre, a lie. Tbe man from
wbom we bad tbe intelligence was now gone, so tbat I could not confront tbem, and there
were none else present wbo knew anything about it but by report ; so tbat I laid aside
sending over a boat till I sbould be better informed. This evening we entertained the
people witb fire-works, on one of the little isles near tbe entranea of the harbour.

I had fixed on the next day for sailing, but the intelligence from Iluabeine put a stop to
it. The chief had promised to bring the man on board wbo first brought the account ; but
he was either not to be found, or would not appear. In the morning, the people were
divided in their opinions ; but in tbe afternoon all said it was a false report. I had sent
Mr. Clerk e, in the morning, to the farthest part of the island, to make inquiries there : he
returned without learning anything satisfactory. In short, the report appeared now too
ill-founded to authorise me to send a boat over, or to wait nny longer here ; and, therefore,
early in the morning of the 4tli, I got everything in readiness to sail. Oreo, the chief, and bis
whole family, came on board, to take their last farewell, accompanied by Oc-oo-rou, the Eai eo
de hi, and Boba the Earee of Otaha, and several of their friends. None of them came empty;
but Oo-oo-rou brought a pretty large present, this being bis first and only visit. I distributed
amongst them almost everything I bad left. The very hospitable 'nanner in which I had ever
been received by these people, had endeared them to me, and givci them a just title to every
tbing in my power to grant. I questioned them again about t le ships at Iluabeine ; and
tbey all, to a man, denied that any were there. During the timi these people remained on
board, they were continually importuning me to return. The chief, lis wife, and daughter, but
especially the two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. I will not pretend to say whether
it was real or feigned grief they showed on this occasion. Perhaps there was a mixture of
both ; but were I to abide by my own opinion only, I should believe it was real. At last,
when we were about to weigh, they took a most aflfectionate leave. Oreo's last request
was for me to return ; when he saw he could not obtain that promise, he asked the name of
my Marai (burying-place). As strange a question as this was, I hesitated not a mouieut
to tell him Stepney; the parish in which I live wben in London. I was made to repeat it
several times over till they could pronounce it : then, Stepney, Marai no Toole, was echoed

May, 1774.

tlicm divine

men of more
(y worsliipped
il seen in any
)rd of perliiips
It must 'jo
Otaluite. At
Fer any of my
jin-redbroasts,
•ic'st, and well

to tiiese birds.

their Eutuas,
to some others
ceived ns. A
I consequently

on board more
ed six feet four
ten imhes and
1 the 2d, in the
d at lluaheine.
licr by Captain
on board one of
well, that I had
t over that very
yrster, happened
The man from
them, and there
lat 1 laid aside
entertained the
lOur.

|ne put a stop to
|ie account ; but
he people were
>rt. I had sent
luirles there : he
beared now too
and, therefore,
Ihe chief, and his
lo-rou, the Earee
imcame empty;
lit. I distributed
rhich I had ever
ist title to every
Huaheine; and
pie remained on
,d daughter, but
to say whether
'as a mixture of
real. At last,
o's last request
Iked the nauie of
not a mouiciit
lade to repeat it
\ote, was echoed

June, 17/4.

COOK'S SKCON'D VOYAGE ROUND THE \VOIlLD.

485

through a hundred mouths at once. I afterwards found the same questinn had betn jiut
to ]Mr. Forster by a man on whoro ; but lie gave a dirt'cnnt, and, iudi'cd, more iirojjer
answer, by saying, no man, who used the sea, could say where he sliould be buried. It ia
the custom at tliesc isle« for all the great fiiniilies to have l)urial-i)laees of their own, where
tlieir remains are interred. These go with the estate to the next heir. Tiic Mural at
Oparree at Otalieite, when Tootaha swayed the sceptre, was ciilleil Mtirai no Toottilia ; but
now it ia called M<trtti no Otoo. What greater i)roof could wo have of these peojilo
csteeuiiug us as friends, than their wishing to remember us, even beyond the period of our
lives? They liad been repeati'dly told that we should see them no more; they then wanted
to know where we were to mingle with our ])arent <lust.

As I could not i)roniise, or even 8upi)ose, that more Knglish ships would be sent to those
isles, our faithful companion, Oedidee, chose to remain in his native country. Hut he left
us with a regret fully demonstrative of the esteem he bore to us; nor could anything, but
the fear of never returning, have torn him from us. NVhen the chief teased me so much
about returning, I sometimes gave such answers as left them hopes. Oedidee would
instantly catch at this, take me on one side, and ask me over again. In short, I have not
words to describe the anguish which appeared in this young man's breast, when he went
away. lie looked up at the ship, burst into tears, and then sunk down into the canoe.
The maxim that a prophet has no honour in his own country was never nuire fully verified
than in this youth. At Otaheito ho might have had anything that was in their power
to bestow; whereas here he was not in the least noticed, lie was a youth of good parts,
and, like most of his countrymen, of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition ; but, in a
manner, wholly ignorant of their religion, government, manners, customs, and traditions ;
consequently, no material knowledge could have been gathered from him, had I brought
him away. Indeed, he would have been a better specimen of the nation, in every respect,
than Oniai. Just as Oedidee was going out of the shi]), he asked me to Tittou some Paroii
for him, in order to show the commanders of any other ships which might stop here. I
complied with his request, gave him a certificate of the time he had been with us, and
recommended him to the notice of those who might touch at the island after me.

We did not get clear of our friends till eleven o'clock, when we weighed, and put to
sea ; but Oedidee did not leave us till we were almost out of the harbour. He staid
in order to fire some guns ; for it being his Majesty "'s birth-day, we fired the salute at
going away.

When I first came to these islands, I had some thought of visiting Tupia's famous
Bolabola. But as I had now got on board a plentiful supply of all manner of refreshments,
and the route I had in view allowing me no time to spare, I laid this design aside, and
directed my course to the west ; taking our final leave of these happy isles, on which
benevolent nature has spread her luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand. The natives,
copying the bounty of nature, are equally liberal ; contributing plentifully and cheerfully
to the wants of navigators. During the six weeks we had remained at them, we had fresh
pork, and all the fruits which were in season, in the utmost profusion ; besides fish at
Otaheite, and fowls at the other isles. All these articles we got in exchange for axes,
hatchets, nails, chisels, cloth, red feathers, beads, knives, seissars, looking-glasses, &c.,
articles which will ever be valuable here. I ought not to omit shirts as a very capital
article in making presents ; especially with those who have any connexions with the fair
sex. A shirt here is full as necessary as a piece of gold in England. The ladies at Otaheite,
after they had pretty well stripped their lovers of shirts, found a method of clothing them-
selves with their own cloth. It was their custom to go on shore every morning, and to
return on board in the evening, generally clad in rags. This furnished a pretence to
importune the lover for better clothes ; and when he had no more of his own, he was to
dress them in new cloth of the country, which they always left ashore ; and appearing again
in rags, they must again be clothed. So that the same suit might pass through twenty
different hands, and be as often sold, bought, and given away.

Before I finish this account of these islands, it is necessary to mention all I know
concerning the government of Ulietea and Otaha. Oreo, so often mentioned, is a native of

488

COOK'S SECOND VOYAtSE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jink, 1774.

BoIaboKi ; but ia posscsscil of ll'/wnooas or lands r,t Ulictca ; which, I suppose, ho, aa
well as many of his countrymen, got at the conquest. IIo resides hero as Opoony'a
]ieut<-nant ; seeming to bo vested with regal authority, and to bo the supremo magistrate in
till! island. Oo-oo-rou, who is the Knire by hereditary right, seems to have little more left
liini than the bare title, and his own IVfu'iitma or district, in which, I think, he is sovereign.
I have always seen Oreo pay him the respect duo to his rank ; and ho was pleased when ho
saw mc distinguish him from others.

Otaha, so far as I can find, is upon the very same footing. Doha and Ota are tho two
chiefs ; the latter I have not seen ; Doha is a stout, well-made young man ; and we are
told, is, after Opoony's di'ath, to marry his daughter, by which marriage ho will bo vested
with tho same regal authority as Opoony has now; so that, it should seem, though a woman
may be vested with regal dignity, sho ciinnot have regal power. I cannot find that Opoony
has got anything to himself by tho conipiest of these isles, any farther than providing for
Iiis nobles, who have seized on best ])art of tho lands. lie seems to havo no demand on
them for any of the many articles they have had from us. Oedideo has several timca
enumerated to mo all the axes, nails, &c. which Opoony ia possessed of, which hardly
amoiuit to as many as he had from me when I saw him in 1709. Old as this famous man
is, ho seems not to spend his last days in indolence. When wo first arrived here, ho
was at 3Iaurana ; soon after, ho returned to Bolabola ; and wo wore now told ho was gone
to Tubi.

I shall conclude this account of these islands with some observations on tho watch which
Mr. Wales hath communicated to me. At our arrival in Matavai Bay in Otaheite, tho
longitude pointed out by Uio watch was 2° 0' 38^" too far to tho west ; that is, it had
gained, since our leaving Queen Charlotte's Sound, of its then rate of going, 8' 34^". This
was in about five months, or rather more, during which time it had passed through tho
extremes of cold and heat. It was judged that half this error arose after we left Easter
Island ; by which it appeared that it went better in tho cold than in tho hot climate '^

BOOK III.

FROM IJLIETEA TO NEW ZEALAND.

CIIAPTF.R I. — PASSAGE FHOM ULIETEA TO THE FRIENDLY ISLES; WITH A DESCHIPTION OP
SEVERAL ISLANDS THAT WERE DISCOVERED, AND TUE INCIDENTS WHICH HAPPENED IN
THAT TRACK.

On the 6th, being the day after leaving TJlietea, at eleven o'clock a. m., we saw land
bearing N.W., which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be a low reef island about four
leagues in compass, and of a circular form. It is composed of several small ])atclics
connected together by breakers, tho largest lying on the N.E, part. This is Howe Island,
discovered by Captain Wallis, who, I think, sent his boat to examine it ; and, if I have nut

* Capt. Fitzroy, in tho Appendix to tlio surveying
voyages of tlic Adventure and tlie Beagle, page 32(>, gives
it as liis opinion, " confirmed by eight years' observations
of tlie movements of ehronomctcrs," tliat " temperatiiro
b tlie cliief, if not tlie only cause (generally speaking), of
marked clianges of rate : the balances of but few watrlics
being so well compensated us to be proof against a long
continuance of higher or lower temperature." In con-
nexion with this subject, Capt. Fitzroy has the following
remarks, deserving of great attention by all travellers and
readers of travels, and which serve to illustrate the ob-
Bcrvalions in the text, thoiigli not fully to explain the re-
sult there noticed : — " Some chronometrieal measurements
Lave erred, and caused much perplexity in the following
ipanncr : — The chronometers were rated in air wlioso
average temperature was — let us suppose for example,

seventy. They were then carried through air eitlier cnn-
sider.ihly hotter, or considerably colder, and again rated
in a temperature nearly equal to that sjiceified. The
rates were not found to differ much, and it was siii)po5('d
that tho chronometers had been going extremely well ;
though, in truth, the rates of most of the watches had
did'ered extremely (from those foui d ia port) during tho
voyage ; but they had returned nearly to tho old rules
upon reaching nearly equal temperature. And this has
happened, more or less, to every 6hi|) carrying chrono-
meters across the equator ; especially when going to Kio
de Janeiro with tlie sun to the northward of the line."
The considci-ation of this fact will account for many errore
into which navigators, depending solely on their chiono-
meters fur their longitude, havo bccu and arc continually
liable to fall Ed.

Jink, 1774.

pposc, ho, aa
as Opoony's
ningiMtratu iu
ttli! more left
! is sovereign,
aacd when ho

[i arc the two
; and wo are
(vill bo vested
ugh a woman
that Opoony
providing for
no demand on
several times
which hardly
IS famous man
'ived here, ho
i he was gone

3 watch which
Otaheitc, the
;hat is, it had
{'34^". This
d through tho
wo left Easter
ilimatr

JSCKIPTION OP
UAPl'ENED IN

we saw land

Lnd about four

Ismail ])atclics

Howe Island,

if I have not

Igh air citlier con-

and agiiin rattd

8i>ccifieJ. The

ll it was sniiposed

] cxticnic'ly well ;

the watches had

port) during tho

to the olil rates

■o. And this has

Icarrying clirono-

Ihcn going tn Kio

Ird of the lino."

It for many errors

Ion their chrono-

are continually

JirNR, 1771

COOKS SECOND VOYACE ROUND THE WOULD.

been misinformed, found a channel throngli, witliin the reef, near the N.W. part*,
inliabitants of Ulietea speak of an uninhiibitcd island, about this situation, ciillcil by

The
•y thini
]Mopelia, to whicli they go at certain seasons for turtle. IVrhaps tiiis may bo tlie same ; as
wo s'aw no signs uf iidiabitauts upon it. Its latitude is 1(5" •!(}' South ; iou-'itiuie l.Vl'JJ'
West.

J''roni this day to the Kith we met witli nothing rcmarli.ablf, and our course was West
eoutiierly ; tho winds variab'o from the North round by tho East to S.W. atteudid with
cloudy, rainy, unsettled weaiher, and a s(mthcrly swell. We generally broui,'Iit-to, or stood
upon a wind, during niglit ; and in the day made all the sail we could. About bali'-an-liour
after sunrise this morning, land was seen from tiio topmast head, bearing N.N.K. We
immediately altered the course and steering for it, found it to l)e another reef island, com-
posed of livo or six woody islets, connected to<tether by sand-banks and breakers, inclosing
a lake, into which wo could see no entrance. Wo ranged the West and N.W. coasts, from
its southern to its northern extremity, which is about two leagues ; and so near tlie shore,
that at one time wo could see tho rocks under us; yet we fotiiid no anchorage, nor saw wo
any signs of inhabitants. There were plenty of various kinds of birds, and the coast seemed
to abound with fish. The sittiation of this isle is not very distant from that assigned by
JVIr. Dalrymj)lc for La Sagitaria, discovered by Quires ; but, by the description the dis-
coverer has given of it it cannot be the same. Tor this reason I looked uixtn it as a new
discovery, and named it Palmerston Island, in honour of Lord Palmerston, one of the Lords
of the Admiralty. It is situated in latitude UV 4' South, longitude Kil^ 10' AVest.

At four o'clock in the afternoon wc left this isle, and resumed our course to the W. by S.
with a fine steady gale easterly, till noon on the 2()th, at which time, being in latitude Ml"
r»0', longitude l(i}{° 52', wo thought we saw bind to S.S.W. and hauled uj) for it accordingly.
But, two hours after, we discovered our niist.ike, and resumed our course AV. by. 8. ISotJU
after wc saw land from the mast-head iu the same direction ; and, as wo drew nearer, found
it to be an island which, at five o'clock, boro West, distant five leagius. Here we sjient
the night plying under the topsails ; and, at daybreak next morning, bore away, steering
for the northern point, and raufifinff the AVest coast at the distance of one mile, till near

fill ' ' O O ^ '

noon. Ihen, perceiving some iH'ojde on the shore, and landing seeming to be easy, wo
brought-to, and hoisted out two boats, with which I put off to tho land, accompanied by
some of the officers and gentlemen. As we drew near the shore, some of the inhabitants,
who were on the rocks, retired to the woods, to meet us, as we supposed ; and we afterwards
found our conjectures right. "We landed with ease iu a small creek, and took post on a
high rock to prevent a surprise. Here we displayed our ctdours, and Mr. Forster and his
party began to collect plants, &c. Tho coast was so overrun with woods, bushes, plants,
stones, &c. that we could not see forty yards round us. I took two men, and with them
entered a kind of chasm, which opened a way into the woods. We had not gone far before
we heard the natives approaching ; upon which I called to Mr. Forster to retire to the party,
as I did likewise. We had no sooner joined, than the islanders appeared at the entrance of
a chasm not a stone's throw from «? We begiin to speak, and make all the friendly signs
we could think of to them, which they answered by menaces ; and one of two men, who
were advanced before the rest, threw a stone, which struck Mr. Sparrman on the arm.
Upon this two muskets were fired, without order, which made them all retire under cover
of the woods ; and we saw them no more.

After waiting some little time, and till we were satisfied nothing was to be done here,
the country being so overrun with bushes that it was hardly possible to come to parley with
them, we embarked and proceeded down along shore, in hopes of meeting with better success
in another place. After ranging the coast for some miles without seeing a hving soul, or
any convenient landing-place, we at length came before a small beach, on which lay four
canoes. Here we landed by means of a little creek, formed by the flat rocks before it, with
a view of just looking at the canoes, and to leave some medals, nails, &c. in them, for not a
soul was to be seen. The situat'on of this place was to us worse than the former. A flat
rock lay next the sea ; behind it a narrow stone beach ; this was bounded by a perpendicular
* Captain Wallis did not land on this island, being deterred from attcm|)ting to do so hy the breakers. — Ed.

1| '

I 'I

•I I

u »?

Ji ii

;«?<:

488

COO V S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

June, 177'4.

rocky cliff of unequal height, whoso top was covered with shnihs; two deep and narrow
chasms in the cliff seemed to open a communication into the country. In or before one of
these lay the four canoes which wc were going to look at ; but in the doing of this, I saw
we should be exposed to an attack from the natives, il' there wero any, without being in a
situation proper for a defence. To prevent this as much as could be, and to secure a retreat
in case of an attack, I ordered the men to be drawn up upon the rock, from whence they
had a view of the heights ; and only myself, and four of the gentlemen, went up to the
can.ies. We had been there but a few minutes, beiore the natives, I cannot say how many,
rushed down the chasm out of the wood upon us. The endeavours we used to bring them
to a parley were to no purpose ; for they came with the ferocity of wild boars, and tiirew
their darts. 1 wo or three muskets, discliarged in the air, did not hinder one of them from
advancing still farther, and throwing another dart, or rather a s})ear, which passed close over
my shoulder. Ilis courage would have cost him his life, had not my musket missed fii e ;
for I was not five paces from him when he threxfs his spear, and had resolved to shoot him
to save myse'f. I was glad afterwards that it happened as it did. At this instant, our men
on the rock began to fire at others who appeared on the heights, which abated the ardour of
the party we were engaged with, and gave us time to join our oeople, when I caused the
firing to cease. The last discharge sent all the islanders to the woods, from whence they
did not return so long as wo remained. VTc did not know that any were hurt. It was
remarkable, that when I joined our party, I tried my musket in the air, and it went off as
well as a piece could do. Seeing no good was to be got with these people, or at the isle, as
having no port, we returned on board, and having hoisted in the boats, mrde sail to W.S.W.
I had forgot tj menti'm, in its proper order, tliat having put ashore a little before we
came to this last place, three or four of us went upon the cliffs, where we found the country,
as before, nothing but coral rocks, all overrun with bu!<hes ; so that it was hardly possible to
penetrate into it, and we embarked again with intent to return directly on board, till we saw
tiie canoes ; being directed to the place by the opinion of some of us, who thought they
heard some people. .

Th _' conduct and a^oect of these islanders occasioned my naming it Savaore Island *. It
is situated in the latitude 19^ 1' South, longitude 1G9" 37' Wes*. It is about vileveu leagues

CORAL ROCKS.

in circuit ; of arounu form, and good height ; and hath deep waters close to its shores. All
the sea-coast, and as far inland as wc could see, is wholly covered with trees, shrubs, &c.

* Tlie natives of Savage Island are still, it appears, pines of New Holland, and as having lost none of their

deserving of the title hestowcd on them by Cook, being ferocity of .lisposition. A fuller notice of the little tliat

diacribed by Mr. Williams as the most wretrhcd and do- is known of these people will be given in it3 proper place

graded of any nation he had ever seen cxceji the Aboii- in the Appendix. — Eu.

June, 1774.

and narrow
before one of
f this, I saw
it being in a
!ure a retreat
whence they
nt up to the
f how many,

bring them
'8, and threw
of them from
jed close over
, missed fii e ;

to shoot him
tant, our men
the ardour of

1 I caused the
whence they

uirt. It was
it went otf as

at the isle, as
iiltoW.S.W.
ttle before we
i the country,
dly possible to
rd, till we saw

thought they

Island •. It
flleveu leagues

I shores. All
3, shrubs, &c.

aone of t)icir
J of tlie little tliat
■1 it? proper place

June, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

489

amongst which were some cocoa-nut trees ; but what the r.tcrior parts may produce wo
know not. To judge of the whole garment by the skirts, it cannot produce much ; for so
mudi as we saw of it consisted wholly of cor;tl rocks, all overrun with wood and bushes.
No'; a bit of soil was to be seen ; tli< rocks alone supplying the trees with humidit}'. If
those coral rocks were first formed in the sea by animals, liow came they thrown up to such
f. height ? Has this island been raised by an earthquake ? Or has the sea receded from
it ? Some philosophers have attempted to account for the fornication of low isles, such as aro
in this sea ; but I do not know that anything has been said of high islands, or such as I
have been speaking of. In this island, not only the loose rocks which cover the surface, but
the cliffs which bound the shores, are of coral stone, which the continual beating of the sea
has formed into a variety of curious caverns, some of them very large : the roof or rock over
them being supported by pillars, which the foaming waves have formed into a multitude of
shapes, and made more curious than the caverns themselves. In one wc saw, light was
admitted through a holo at the top ; in another jilace, we observed that the whole roof of
one of these caverns had sunk in, and formed a kind of valley above, which lay considerably
below the circumjacent rocks.

I can say but little of the inhabitants, wlic, I believe, are not numerous. Thoj' seenied to
be stout, well-made men, were naked, except round the waists, and some of them had their
faces, breast, and thighs painted black. Tlie canoes were precisely like those of Amsterdam ;
with the addition of a little rising like a gunwale <m each side of the open part ; and had
some carving about them, wliich showed that tlRse j)^ople are full as ingenious. Both these
islanders and their canoes agree very well with the descriptions M. de Bougainville has
given of those he saw off the Isle of Navigators, which lies nearly under the same meridian.
After leaving Savage Island, we continued to steer W.S.W. with a fine easterly trade-wind,
till the 24th in tlie evening, when, judging ourselves not far from Rotterdam, we brought-to,
and spent the night plying under the topsails. At daybreak, next morning, we bore away
West; and soon after saw astring of islands* extending from S.S.W. by the SVest to N.N.W.
The wind being at N.E. we hauled to N.W. with a view of discovering more distinctly the
isles in that quarter ; but, presently after, we discovered a reef of rocks a-head, extending on
each bow farther than we could see. As we could not weather them, it became necessary to
tack and bear up to the South, to look for a passagii that way. At noon, the southernmost
island bore S.W., distant four miles. North of this isle were three others, all connected
by breakers, which wo were not sure did not join to those we had seen in the morning, as
some were observed in the intermediate space. Some islands were also seen to the West of
those four; but Rotterd.am was not yet in sight. Latitude 20^ 23' S., longitude 174° 6'
West. During the whole afternoon, we had little wind : so that, at sunset, the southernmost
isle bore W.N.W,, distant five miles ; and some breakers, wo had seen to the South, bore
now S.S.W. half W. Soon after it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of a great
easterly swell ; which, however, happened to have no great effect upon the ship. The calm
continued till four o'clock the next morning, when it was succeeded by a breeze from the
South. At daylight, perceiving a likelihood of a passage between the islands to the North
and the breakers to the South, we stretched in West, and soon after saw more islands, both
to the S.W. and N.W., but the passage seemed open and clear. Upon drawing near the
islands, we sounded, and found forty-five and fortj fathoms, a clear "^ndy bottom. I was
now quite easy, since it was in our power to anchoi", iu case of a cal , or to spend the night,
if we found no passage. Towards noon, some -^anoes came off to us from one of the isles,
having two or three people in each ; wlio advanced boldly alongside, and exchanged some
cocoa-nuts and shaddocks for small nails. They pointed out to us Anamocka or Rotterdam ;
an advantage we derived from knowing the proper names. They likewise gave us the names
of some of the other isles, and invited us mucii to go to theirs, which they called Cornango.
The breeze freshening, we left them astern, and steered for Anamocka ; meeting with a clear
passage, in which wo found unequal sounding, from forty to nine fatlioms, depending, I
believe, in a great measure, on our distance from the islands which form it.

As we drew near the south end of Rotterdam, or Anamocka, we were met by a number

* Tlie llupni idaiids, now rliristiiiuiecil. — Ko.

; :'

' i

■ 11

';h

490

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Junk, 1771.

of canoes, laden with fruit an«' .-cots ; but, as I did not shorten sail, we had but little traffic
with them. The people in one canoe inqitired for me by name ; a proof that these people
have an intercourse with those of Amsterdam. They importuned us much to go towards
their coast, letting us kno.v, as we understood them, that we might anchor there. Tiiis was
on the S.W. side of the ialn,nd, where the coast seemed to be sheltered from the South and
S.E. winds i but as the day was far spent, I could not attempt to go in there, as it would
have been necessary to have sent first a boat in to examine it. I therefore stood for tho
north side of the island, where we anchored about three-fourths of a mile from shore ; the
extremes of it bearing S. 88° East to S.W. a cove with a sandy beach at the bottom of it
S. 50° East.

: I ■

CHAPTER II,

VARIETY OF
DESCRIUKD.
UKSCRIPTION
ACCOUNT OP

RECEPTION AT ANAMOCKA ; A ROBBERY AND

OTHER INCIDENTS. DEPARTURE FROM THE

SOME OBSERVATIONS ON THE NAVIGATION

ITS CONSEQUENCES, WITH A
ISLAND. A SAILING CANOE
OF THESE IS.^ANDERS. A

THE INHABITANTS, AND NAUTICAL REMARKS.

Before we had well got to an anchor, the natives came off from all parts in canoes,
bringing with them yams and shaddocks, which they exchanged for small nails and old
rags. One man taking »■» vast liking to our lead and line, got hold of it, and, in spite of
all the threats I could make use of, cut the line with a stone ; but a discharge of small shot
made him return it. Early in the mor nng, I went ashore, with Mr. Gilbert, to look for
fresh water. We landed in the cove "l-ve mentioned, and were received with great
"Curtesy by the natives. After I had distributed some presents amongst them, I asked
lor water, and was conducted to a pimd of it that was brackish, about three-fourths of a
mile from the landing-place ; which I suppose to be the same that Tasnian watered at. In
the mean time, the people in the boat had lad.n her with fruit and roots, which the natives
had brought down, and exchanged for nails Jind beads. On our return to the ship, I found
the same sort of traffic carrying on there. After breakfast, I went ashore witli two boats
to trade with the people, accompanied by several of the gentlemen, and ordered the la'mch
to follow with casks to be filled with water. The natives assisted us to roll them to and
from the pond ; and a nail or a bead v/as the expense of their labour. Fruit and roots,
especially shaddocks and yams, were brought down in such plenty, that tho two boats were
laden, sent off, cleared, and laden a second time, before noon; by which time also the launch
had got a full supply of water, and the botanical and shooting parties had all come in, except
the surgeon, for whom we could not wait, as the tide was ebbing fast out of the cove ;
consequently he was left behind. As there is no getting into the cove with a boat, from
between half ebb to iialf flood, we could get oft' no water in the afternoon. Ilowevf , there
is a very good landing-place without it, near the southern point, where boats can get asliore
at all times of the tide ; here some of the officers landed after dinner, wliere they found tho
surgeon, who had been robbed of his gnn. Having come down to the shore sonic time after
the boats had put oft', he got a canoe to bring him on board ; but as he was getting into her,
a fellow snatched hold of the gun, and ran oft' with it. After tliat no one would carry him
to the ship, and they would have stripped him, as he imagined, had he not presented a
toothpick case, which they, no doubt, thought was a little gun. As soon as 1 heard of
this, I landed at the place above mentioned, and the few natives who were there fled at my
approach. After lauding, I went in search of the officers, whom I found in the cove, where
we had been in the morning, with a good many of the natives about them. No step had
been taken to recover the gun, nor did 1 tiiink proper to take any ; but in this I was wrong.
The easy manner of obtaining this gun, which they now, no doubt, thought secure in their
possession, encouraged them to proceed in these tricks, as will soon ai)pear. The alarm the
natives had caught being soon over, they carried fruit, &c. to tlie boats, which got pretty
well laden before night, when we all returned on board.

Early in tho morning of the 28th, Lieutenant Clerke, with the Master and fourteen or

Funk, 177 !•

ittle traffic
lesc people
go towards
Tiiis was
South and
IS it would
)od for the
shore ; the
ottom of it

!S, WITH A
,1X0 CANOE
NDERS. A
WITH SOME

;s in canoes,
lils and old
, in spite of
f small shot
, to look for
with great
!in, I asked
fourths of a
ired at. In
I the natives
^lip, I found
h two boats
the la'inch
hem to and
t and roots,
boats were
the launch
e in, except
■ the cove ;
boat, from
fc\( , there
get ashore
Y found the
3 time after
\q into her,
carry him
resented a
1 heard of
fled at my
[ove, where

step had
Ikvas wrong.
Jre in their

alarm the

1 got pretty

fourteen or

June, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOVAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

401

fifteen men, went on shore in the launch for v«atei'. I did intend to have followed in
another boat myself, but rather unluckily deferred it till after breakfast. The launch wa.s
no sooner landed than the natives gathered about her, behaving in so rude a r anner, that
the officers were in some doubt if they should land the cacks; but, as they e -pected me on
shore soon, they ventured, and, with difficulty, got them filled, and into the boat again.
In the doing of this, j\Ir. Gierke's gun was snatched from him, and carried off; as were also
some of the cooper's tools ; and several of the people were stripped of one thing or another.
All this was done, as it were, by s^tealth ; for they laid held of nothing by main force. I
landed just as the launch was ready to put off; and the natives, who were pretty numerous
on the beach, as soon as they saw me, fled ; so that I suspected something had happened.
However, I prevailed on many to stay, and Mr, Clerke came, and informed me of all the
preceding circumstances. I quickly came to a resolution to oblige them to make restitu-
tion ; and, for this purpose, ordered all the marines to be armed, and sent on shore. JMr.
Forster and his party being gone into the country, I ordered two or three guns to be fired
from the ship, in order to alarm him ; not knowing how the natives might act on this
occasion. These orders being given, I sent all the boats off but one, with which I stayed,
having a good many of the natives about me, who behaved with their usual courtesy. I
made them so sensible of my intention, that long before the marines came, Mr. Cierkea
musket was brought, but they used many ixcuses to divert me from insisting on the other.
At length Mr. Edgecumbe arriving with the marines, this alarmed them so much, that some
of them fled. The first step I took was to seize on two large double-sailing canoes which
were in the cove. One fellow making resistance, I fired some small shot at him, and sent
bun limping ofl. The natives being now convinced that I was in earnest, all fled ; but on
my calling to them, many returned ; and, presently after, the other musket was brought,
and laid at my feet. That moment I ordered the canoes to be restored, to show them on
what account they were detained. The other things we had lost being of less value, I was
the more indifferent about them. By this time the launch was ashore for another turn of
water, and we were permitted to fill tlie casks without any one daring to come near us ;
except one man, who had befriended us during the whole affivir, and seemed to disapprove of
the conduct of his countrymen.

On my returning from the pond to the cove, I found a good many people collected
together, from whom wo understood that the man I had fireil at was dead. This story
I treated as improbable, and addressed a man, wiio seemed of some consequence, for the
restitution of a cooper's adze we had lost the morning. He immediately sent away two
men, as I thought, for it; but I soon fouml ti it we had gn .itly mistaken eacl. otinr; for,
instead of the adze, they brought the wounded man, strit< iicd out on a board, ind laid him
down by me, to all appearance dead. I was mucli nii wd at the sight ; but soon saw my
mistake, and that he was only wounded in the hand an'' tlii<,'h. I t crefore desired ho
might be carried out of the sun, and sent for the surgeon to dress his woumls. In the
mean time, I addressed several people for the adze; for as I had now notliiii;. l^c to do, I
determined to have it. The one I applied the most to, was an elderly w i man, who had always
a great deal to say to me. from my first landing; but, on this occasion, she gave her tongiio
full scope. I understood but little of her eloquence; and all I muld gather from iier
arguments was, that it was mean in mo to insist on the return of so trifling a thing. But
when she found I was determined, she and three or four more women went "vay; and soon
after tlio adze was brought me, but I faw her no more. This I was sm < ,,r, as I wanted
to make her a present, in return for the part she had taken in all oiw .us-actions, private
as well as public. For I was no sooner returned from the pond, tlie first time I landed,
tlian this old lady presented to me a girl, giving me to understand she was at my service.
]\liss, who probably had received her instructions, wanted, as a preliminary article, a spike-
nail, or a shirt, neither of which I had to give her, and soon made them sensible of my
poverty. I thought, by that means, to have come oft' with flying colours ; but I was
mistaken ; for they gave me to understand I might retire with her on credit. On my
declining this proposal, the old lady began to argue with me, and then abuf^c me. Though
1 comprehended little of what she said, her actions were expressive enough, and showed that

i 1

1 t r

;ii

'I ,1 .

i !!l

ill

I' '

lU)

i,
ti

■^1

402

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

June, 1774.

! I

her words were to this eftuct, sneering in my face, saying, what sort of a man are you, thus
to refuse the emhraces of so fine a young woman ? For tlie girl certainly did not want
boanty ; which, however, I could better withstand, than the abusis of this worthy matron,
and therefore hastened into the boat. They wanted me to take the young lady aboard ;
but this could not be done, as I had given strict orders, before I went ashore, to suffer no
woman, on any pretence whatever, to come into the ship, for reasons which I shall mention
in another place.

As soon as the surgeon got ashore, he dressed the man's woimds, and bled him ; and was
of opinion that he was in no sort of danger, as the shot had done little more than penetrate
the skin. In the operation, some poultice being wanting, the surgeon asked f\ir ripe plan-
tains ; but they brought sugar-cane, and having chewed it to a pulp, gave it him to apply
to the wound. This being of a more balsamic nature than the other, proves that these
people have some knowledge of simples. As soon as the man's wounds were dressed, I
made him a present, which his master, or at least the man who owned the canoe, took most
probably to himself. Matters being thus settled, apparently to the satisfaction of all
parties, we repaired on board to dinner, where I found a good 8ui)ply of fruit and roots, and
therefo' gave orders to get everything in readiness to sail.

I now was informed of a circumstance which was observed on board : several canoes
being at the ship, when the great guns were fired in the morning, they all retired, but one
man, who was baling the water out of his canoe, which lay alongside, directly under the
guns. When the first was fired, he just looked up, and then, quite unconcerned, continued
his work ; nor had the second gun any other effect upon him ; he did not stir till the water
was all out of his canoe, when he paddled leisurely off. Tiiis man had several times been
observed to take fruit and roots out of otlier canoes, and sell them to us. If the owners did
not willingly part with them, he took them by force ; by which he obtained the appellation
of custom-house officer. One time, aftor he had been collecting tribute, he happened to be
lying alongside of a sailing canoe which was on board. One of her people seeing him look
another way, and his attention otlierwise engaged, took the opportunity of stealing some-
what out of his canoe ; they then put off", and set their sail ; but the man, perceiving the
trick they had played him, darted after them, and having soon got on board their canoe,
beat him who had taken his things, and not only brought back his own but many other
articles which he took from them. This man had likewise been observed making collections
on shore at the trading-place. I remembered to have seen him there ; and, on account of
his gathering tribute, took him to be a man of consequence, and was going to make him a
present ; but some of their people would not let me, saying he was no Areeke (that is, chief).
He had his hair always powdered with sone kind of white dust.

As we had no wind to sail this afternoon, a party of us went ashore in the evening. We
found the natives everywhere courteous and obliging ; so that, had we made a longer stay,
it is pr> lable we should have had no more reason to complain of their conduct. While I
was now on shore, I got the names of twenty islands which lie between the N.W. and N.E.,
some of them in sight. Two of them, which lie most to the West, viz. Amattafoa and
Oghao, are remarkable on account of their great lieight. In Amattafoa, which is the
westernmost, we judged there was a volcano, by the continual column of smoke we saw
daily ascending from the middle of it.

Both Mr. Cooper and myself being on shore at noon, ]\Ir. Wales could not wind up the
watch at the usual time ; and as we did not come on board till late in the afternoon, it was
forgotten till it was down. This circumstance was of no consequence, as Mr. Wales had had
several altitudes of the sun at this place before it went down, and also had opportunities of
taking some after.

At daybreak on the 2!)th, having got under sail with a light breeze at west, we stood to
the north for the tvo high islands; but tlie wind, scanting upon us, carried us in amongst
the low isles and s!.oals, so that we had to ])ly to clear them. Tin gave time for a great
many canoes, from all i)arts, to get up with us. Tlie people in tliem brough„ for traffic
Various artieh's ; some roots, fruits, and fowls, but of the latter iiit many. They took in
exchange small nails and pieces of any kinds of cloth. I believe, befon they went away.

June, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGK ROUND THE WORLD.

493

they stripped tlic most of our p('oi)Io of tlie few clotlios tlie ladies of Otahcitc liad left them ;
for the passion for curiosities was as great as ever. Having got clear of the low isles, wo
made a stretch to the south, and did but fetch a little to windward of the south end of Ana-
mocka ; so that we got little by tliis day's pl>ing. Here wc spent the night, making short
boards over that s))acc with which we made ourselves acquainted the preceding day. On
the 30th, at dsiyhreak, stretched out for Amattafoa, with a gentle breeze at W.S.W. Day
no sooner dawned than we saw canoes coniing from all p;irts. Their traffic was much the
same as it had been the day before, or rather better ; for out of one canoe I got two ])igs,
which were scarce articles here. At four in the afternoon, we drew near the island of Amat-
tafoa, and passed between it and Oghao, the channel being two miles broad, safe, and without
soundings. AVhilo we were in the passage, we had little wind and calms. This gave time
for a large sailing double canoe, which had been following us all the day, as well as some
others with paddles, to come up with us.

I had now an opportunity to verify a thing I was before in doubt about ; which was,
whether or not some of these canoes did not, in changing tacks, only shift the sail, and so
proceed with that end foremost which before was the stern : the one we now saw wrought
in this manner ; the sail is latteen, extended to a latteen yard above, and to a boom at the
foot ; in one word, it is like a whcdc mizen, supposing the whole foot to be extended to a
boom. The yard is slung nearly in the middle, or upon an equipoise. AVhen they change
tacks, they throw the vessel up in the wind, ease off the sheet, and bring the heel or tack-
end of the yard to the other end of the boat, and the sheet in like manner : there are notches,
or sockets, at each end of the vessel, in which the end of tiie yard fixes. In short, they work
just as those do at the Ladrone Islands, according to ]Mr. Walter"'s description *. When they
want to sail large, or before the wind, the yard is taken out of the socket and squared. It
must be observed, that all their sailing vessels are not rigged to sail in the same manner ;
some, and those of the largest size, .are rigged so as to tack about. Tiicse have a short, but
pretty stout mast, which steps on a kind of roller that is fixed to the deck near the fore part.
It is made to lean or incline very much forward ; the head is forked ; on the two points of

SAILING CANOES (iF ANAMOCUA.

which the yard rests, as on two pivots, by means of two strong cleats of wood secured to
each side of the yard, at about one-third its length from the tack or heel, which, when under
sail, is confined down between the two canoes by means of two strong ropes, one to and
passing through a hole at the head of each canoe ; for, it must be observed, that all the
sailing vessels of this sort are double. The tack being thus fixed, it is plain that, in changing
tacks, the vessels must be put about ; tiie sail and boom on the one tack will be clear of the
mast, and on the other it will lie against it, just as a wiu>le mizen. Ilowever, I am not

• See Loril Anson's Voyage.

»l

! I (U

)

494

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

June, 1774.

sure if they do not sometimes unlace that part of the sail from the yard wliicli is between
the tack and mast-head, and so shift both sail and boom leeward of the mast. The drawings
which ]Mr. Hedges made of these vessels seem to favour this supposition, and will not only
illustrate, but in a manner make the description of them unnecessary. The out-riggers and
ropes used for shrouds &c. are all stout and strong : indeed, the sail, yard, and boom are all
together of such an enormous weight, that strength is required.

The summit of Amattafoa was hid in the clouds the whole d,iy, so that we were not able
to determine with certainty whether there was a volcano or not ; but everything we could
see concurred to make us believe there was. This island is about five leagues in circuit :
Oghao is not so much, but more round and peaked. They lie in the direction of N.N.W.
^ W. from Anamocka, eleven or twelve leagues distant : they are both inhabited, but neither
of them seemed fertile. We were hardly through the passage before we got a fresh breeze
at south. That moment, all the natives made haste to be gone, and we steered to the west,
all sails set. I had some thoughts of touching at Amsterdam, as it lay not much out of the
way ; but, as the wind was now, we could not fetch it ; and this was the occasion of my
laying my design aside altogether.

Let us now return to Anamocka, as it is called by the natives. It is situated in the lati-
tude of 20° 15' S., longitude 174" 31' W., and was first discovered by Tasman, and by him
named Rotterdam. It is of a triangular form, each side whereof is about three and a half or
four miles. A salt-water lake in the middle of it occupies not a little of its surface, and in
a manner cuts off the S.E. angle. Round the island, that is, from the N.W. to tlie S.,
round by the N. and E., lie scattered a number of small isles, sand-banks, and breakers.
We could see no end to their extent to the north ; and it is not impossible that they reach
as far south as Amsterdani or Tongatabu. These, together with Middleburg, or Eaoowee,
and Pylstart, make a group, containing about tliree degrees of latitude and two of longitude,
which I liave named the Friendly Isles or Archipelago, as a firm reliance and friendship
seems to subsist among their inhabitants, and their courteous behaviour to strangers entitles
them to that appellation ; under which we might perhaps extend their group much farther,
even down to Boscawcn and Keppcrs Isles, discovered by Captain Wallis, and lying nearly
under the same meridian, and in the latitude of 15° 53' ; for, from the little account I have
had of the people of these two isles, they seem to have the same sort of friendly disposition
we observed in our Archipelago.

The inhabitants, productions, &c. of Rotterdam and the neighbouring isles, are the same
as at Amsterdam. Hogs and fowls are, indeed, much scarcer ; of the former liaving got but
six, and not many of the latter. Yams and shaddocks were what we got the most of ; other
fruits were not so plenty. Not half the isle is laid out in inclosed plantations as at Amster-
dam ; but the parts which are not inclosed are not less fertile or uncultivated. There is,
however, far more waste land on this isle, in proportion to its size, than upon the other, and
the people seem to be much poorer ; tliat is, in cloth, matting, ornaments, &c., which con-
stitute a great part of the riches of the South Sea islanders. The people of this isle seem to
be more affected with the leprosy, or some scrofulous disorder, than any I have seen elsewhere.
It breaks out in the face more than any other part of the body : I have seen several whose
faces were ruined by it, and their noses quite gone. In one of my excursions, happening to
peep into a house where one or more of them were, one man only appeared at the door, or
liole by which I must have entered, and which he began to stop up, by drawing several parts
of a cord across it ; but the intolerable stench which came from his putrid face was alone
sufiieient to keep me out, had the entrance been ever so wide. His nose was quite gone, and
his whole face in one continued ulcer, so that the very sight of him was shocking. As our
people had not all got clear of a certain disease they had contracted at the Society Isles, I
took all possible care to prevent its being communicated to the natives here ; and I have
reason to believe my endeavours succeeded.

Having mentioned a house, it may not be amiss to observe, that some here differ from
those I saw^ at the other isles ; being inclosed or walled on every side with reeds neatly put
together, but not close. The entrance is by a square hole about two and a half feet each
way. The form of these houses is an oblong square ; the floor or foundation every way

L'NE, 1774.

i between
drawings
I not only
ggers and
im are all

3 not able
we could
n circuit :
r N.N.W.
ut neither
L'sli breeze
the west,
out of the
on of my

n the lati-
id by him
1 a half or
Lce, and in
to the S.,

breakers,
they reach

Eaoowee,
longitude,
friendship
ita entitles
ch farther,
ing nearly
int I have
lisposition

the same
ig got but
of; other
Amster-
Thcrc is,
)ther, and
[hich con-
ic seem to
tlsewhere.
jral whose
[pening to
door, or
jral parts
raa alone
jono, and
As our
Isles, I
|d I have

Iflfer from
itly put
Ifect each
[cry way

JULV, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

495

shorter than the eve, which is about four feot from the ground. By this construction, the
rain that falls on the roof is carried oft" from the wall ; which otherwise would decay and
rot. AVe did not distinguish any king, or leading chief, or any person who took upon him
the appearance of supremo autiiority. The man and woman before mentioned, whom I
believed to be man and wife, interested themselves on several occasions in our affairs ; but
it was easy to see they had no great authority. Amongst other things which I gave them
as a reward for their service, was a young ''og and bitch, animals which they have not, but
are very fond of, and know very well by name. Tiiey have some of the same sort of
earthen pots we saw at Amsterdam; and I am of opinion tlicy are of their own manufacture,
or that of some neighbouring isle.

The road, tis I have already mentioned, is on the north side of the isle, just to the
southward of the southernmost cove ; for there are two on this side. The bank is of some
extent, and the bottom free from rocks, with twenty-five and twenty fathoms water, one or
two miles from the shore. Fire-wood is very convenient to be got at, and easy to be
shi|>ped off; but the water is so brackish that it is not worth the trouble of carrying it
on board ; unless one is in great distress for want of that article, and can get no better.
There is, however, better, not only on this isle, but on others in the neighbourhood ; for the
people brought us some in cocoa-nut shells, which was as good as need be ; but probably
the springs are too trifling to water a ship.

I have already observed that the S.W. side of the island is covered by a reef or reefs of
rocks and small isles. If there be a suflicient dej>tli of water between them and the island,
as there appeared to be, and a good bottom, this would be a much securer place for a ship
to anchor in than that where we had our station.

CIIAPTF.R IIT. — THE PASSAGE FROM TIIE FUIENDLY ISLES TO THE NEW HEBRIDES; WITH
AN ACCOUNT OV TIIE DISCOVERY OP TURTLE ISLAND, AND A VARIETY OP INCIDENTS
WHICH ".^PPENED, noTII llEl'ORE AND AFTER TUB SHIP ARRIVED IN PORT SANDWICH,

IN TIIE . ND OF MALLICOLLO. A DESCRIPTION OF THE PORT ; THE ADJACENT COUNTRY;

ITS INIIAIJITANTS, AND MANY OTHER PARTICULARS.

On the 1st of July, at sunrise, Amattafoa was still in sight, bearing E. by N., distant
twenty leagues. Continuing our course to the west, we, tlie next day at noon, discovered
land bearing N.W. by W., for which we steered, and, upon a nearer approach, found it to
be a small island. At 4 o'clock it bore, from N.W. ^ W. to N.W. by N., and, at the same
time, breakers were seen from the mast-head, extending from W. to S.W. The day being
too far spent to make fartiier discoveries, we soon after shortened sail, hauled the wind, and
spent the night making short boards, which, at daybreak, we found had been so advan-
tageous, that we were farther from the island than we expected, and it was eleven o'clock
before we reached the N.W. or lee side, where anchorage and landing seemed practicable.
In order to obtain a knowledge of the former, I sent the master with a boat to sound ; and,
in the mean time, we stood on and off with the ship. At this time, four or five people
were seen on the reef, which lies round the isle, and about three times that number on the
shore. As the boat advanced, those on the reef retired, and joined the others ; and when
the boat landed, they all fled to the woods. It was not long before the boat returned,
when the master informed me that there were no soundings without the reef, over which,
in one place only, he found a boat-channel of six feet watei". Entering by it, he rowed in
for the shore, thinking to speak with the people, not more than twenty in number, who
were armed with clubs and spears ; but the moment he set his foot on shore, they retired
to the woods. He left on the rocks some medals, nails, and a knife ; which they, no doubt,
found, as some were seen near the place afterwards. This island is not quite a league in
length, in the direction of N.E. and S.W., and not half that in breadth. It is covered
with wood, and surrounded by a reef of coral rocks, which, in some places, extend two
miles from the shore. It seems to be too small to contain many inhabitants ; and probably
the few whom we saw may have come from some isle in the neighbourhood to iish for turtle;

•• "

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493

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1774.

I I

(I 1

as many were seen near this reef, and occasioned tliat namo to bo given to the island, whicli
is situated in latitude l!)^ 48' S., longitude 178° 2' W.

Seeing breakers to the S.S.W., wliich I was desirous of knowing tho extent of before
night, I left Turtle Isle, and stood for them. At two o'clock we found tliey were occasioned
by a coral bank of about four or five leagues in circuit. By the bearing we had taken, wo
knew these to be the same breakers we had seen the preceding evening. Hardly any part
of this bank or reef is above water at the reflux of tlie waves. Tlie heads of some rocks are
to be seen near the edge of the reef, where it is the shoalest ; for in the middle is deep
water. In short, this bank wants only a few little islets to make it exactly like one of the
half-drowned isles so often mentioned. It lies S.W. from Turtle Island, about five or six
miles, and the channel between it and the reef of that isle is three miles over. Seeing no
more shoals or islands, and thinking there might be turtle on this bank, two boats were
properly equipped and sent thither, but returned without having seen one.

The boats were now hoisted in, and we made sail to the west, with a brisk gale at cast,
which continued till the 9th, when we had, for a few hours, a breeze at N.W., attonded
•with squalls of rain. This was succeeded by a steady fresh gale at S.E., with which wo
steered N.W., being at this time in the latitude of 20° 20' S., longitude 176° 8' E. On the
J5th at noon, being in the latitude of 15° 9' S., longitude 171° 16' E., I steered W. The
next day the weather was foggy, and the wind blew in heavy squalls, attended with rain,
which in this ocean, witliin the tropics, generally indicates the vicinity of some high land.
This was verified at three in the afternoon, when high land was seen bearing S.W. Uj.on
this we took in the small sails, reefed the top-sails, and hauling up for it, at half past five,
we could see it extend from'S.S.W. to N.W. by W. I W. Soon after we tacked and spent
the night, which was very stormy, in plying. Our boards were disadvantageous ; for, in
the morning, we found we had lost ground. This, indeed, was no wonder, for having an old
suit of sails bent, the most of them were split to pieces ; particularly a fore-top-sail, which
was rendered quite useless. We got others to the yards, and continued to ply, being
desirous of getting round the south ends of the lands, or at least so far to the south as to be
able to judge of their extent in that direction. For no one doubted that this was the
Australia del Espiritu Santo of Quiros, which M. de Bougainville calls the Great Cyclades,
and that the coast we were now upon was the east side of Aurora Island, whose longitude is
168° 30' E.

The gale kept increasing till we were reduced to our low sails ; so that, on the 18th, at
seven in the morning, I gave over plying, set the top-sail ouble-reefcd, bore up for, and
hauled round the north end of Aurora Island, and then stretched over for the Isle of Lepers,
under close-reefed top-sails and courses, with a very hard gale at N.E. ; but we had now
the advantage of a smooth sea, having the Isle of Aurora to windward. At noon tho north
end of it bore N.E. ^ N., distant four leagues ; our latitude, found by double altitudes, and
reduced to this time, was 15° 1' 30" S., longitude 168° 14' E. At two o^'clock p.m. we drew
near tho middle of the Isle of Lepers, and tacked about two miles from land ; in which
situation we had no soundings with a line of seventy fathoms. We now saw people on the
shore, and many beautiful cascades of water pouring down the neighbouring hills. Tiic
next time we stood for this isle, we came to within half-a-mile of it, where we found thirty
fathoms, a sandy bottom ; but a mile off we had no soundings at seventy fathoms. Here
two canoes came off to us, in one of which were three men, and in the other but one.
Though we made all the signs of friendship, we could not bring them nearer than a stone's
throw; and they made but a short stay before they retired ashore, where we saw a great
number of people assembled in parties, and armed with bows and arrows. They are of a
very dark colour, and, excepting some ornaments at their breast and arms, seemed to be
entirely naked.

As I intended to get to the south, in order to explore the land which might lie there, we
continued to ply between the Isle of Lepers und Aurora ; and on tho 19th, at noon, tho
south end of tiie last-mentioned isle bore south 24° east, and the north end north, distant
twenty miles. Latitude observed, 15° 11". Tiie wind continued to blow strong at S.L. ;
eo that what we got by plying in the day, we lost in the night. On the 20th, at sunrise,

July, l??-*'
land, wliicli

nt of before
e occasioned
d taken, we
lly any part
no rocks are
iddlo is deep
B one of the
it five or six
Seeing no
3 boats were

gale at east,
y., attended
th which wo
E. On the
!d W. The
!d with rain,
le high land.
..W. Upon
alf past five,
ed and spent
30us; for, in
aving an old
p-sail, which
to ply, being
outh as to be
this was the
sat Cyclades,
longitude is

the 18th, at
up for, and
|le of Lepers,
we had now
the north
Ititudes, and
,M. we drew
|d ; in which
[eople on the
hills. The
[found thirty
ims. Here
ler but one.
nan a stone's
saw a great
jhey are of a
icemed to be

lie there, we

noon, the

arth, distant

!\(r at S.L. ;

, at sunrise,

'1i

July, 1774. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

407

we found ourselves off the south end of Atirora, on f,he N.W. side of which the coast forms
a small bay. In this wo made some trips to try for anchorage ; but found no less than
eighty fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand, at half-a-milo from shore. Nevertheless,
I am of opinion that, nearer, tliere is much less depth, and secure riding ; and in the neigh-
boiirhood is plenty of fresh water and wood for fuel. The whole isle, from the sea-shore to
the summits of tlie liills, seemed to bo covered with the latter ; and every valley produced
a fine stream of the former. We saw people on the shore, and some canoes on the coast,
but none came off to us. Leaving the bay just mentioned, we stretched across the channel
which divides Aurora from Whitsuntide island. At noon wc were abreast of the north end
of this latter, which bore E.N.E., and observed in 15" 20,^'. The Isle of Aurora bore from
N. to N.E. '^ E., and the Isle of Lepers from N. by W. } W. to W. Whitsuntide Irtlo
appeared joined to the land to the S. and S.W. of it ; but in stretching to S.W. we discovered
the separation. This was about four o'clock p.m., and then we tacked and stretched in for
the island till near sunset, when the wind veering more to the cast made it necessary to
resume our course to the south. We saw people on the shore, smokes in many parts of the
island, and several places which seemed to be cultivated. About midnight, drawing
near the south land, we tacked and stretched to the north, in order to spend the remainder
of the night.

At daybreak on the 21st, we found ourselves before the channel that divides Whitsuntide
island from the south land, whicii is about two leagues over. At this time, the land to the
southward extended from S. by E. round to the west farther than the eye could reach, and
on the part nearest to us, which is of considerable height, we observed two very large
columns of smoke, which, I judged, ascended from volcanoes. We now stood S.S.W. witli a
fine breeze at S.E., and, at ten o'clock, discovered this part of the land to be an island which
is called by the natives Ambrym. Soon after an elevated land appeared open off the south
end of Ambrym ; and after that, another still higher, on which is a high peaked hill. Wo
judged these lands to belong to two separate islands. The first came in sight at S.E., the
second at E. by S., and they a])peai'ed to be ten leagues distant. Holding on our course for
the land ahead, at noon it was five miles distant from us, extending from S.S.E. to N.W. by
W., and appeared to be continued. The islands to the east bore from N.E. by E., to S.E.
by E.; latitude observed 16° 17' South. As we drew nearer the siiore we discovered a creek,
which had the appearance of being a good harbour, formed by a low point or peninsula,
projecting out to the north. On this a number of people were assembled, who seemed to
invite us ashore ; probably with no good intent, as the most of them were armed with bows
and arrows. In order to gain room and time to hoist out and arm our boats, to reconnoitre
this place, we tacked and made a trip off, which occasioned the discovery of another port
about a league more to the south. Having sent two armed boats to sound, and look for
anchorage, on their making the signal for the latter, we sailed in S.S.W. and anchored in
eleven fathoms water, not two cables' length from tlie S.E. shore, and a mile within the
entrance. Wo had no sooner anchored than several of the natives came off in canoes. They
were very cautious at first ; but, at last, trusted themselves alongside, and exchanged, for
pieces of cloth, arrows; some of which were jjointed with bone, and dipped in some green
gummy substance, which we naturally supjjose was poisonous. Two men having ventured
on board, after a short stay I sent them away with presents. Others, probably induced by
this, came off by moonlight ; but I gave orders to permit none to come alongside ; by which
means we got clear of them for the night.

Next morning early, a good many came round us, some in canoes, and others swimming.
I soon prevailed on one to come on board ; which he no sooner did than he was followed by
more than I desired ; so that not only our deck but rigging was presently filled with them.
I took four into the cabin, and g;v,o them various articles, which they showed to those in the
canoes, and seemed much pleased with their reception. AVhile I was thus making friends
with those in the cabin, an accident happened that threw all into confusion, but in the end,
I believe, proved advantageous to us. A fellow in a canoe having been refused admittance
into one of our boats that lay alongside, bent his bow to shoot a poisoned arrow at the boat-
keeper. Some of his countrymen prevented his doing it that instant, and gave time to

K K

1 (

ii:

■1.
: 1=:

■

i
1

1 i' '11 '

« l-t

I '9

488

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jli,y, 1774.

acquaint mo with it. I ran instantly on deck, and saw nnotlicr man struggling with him ;
one of those who had Wen in the cabin, nnd had leaped out of the window for this purpose.
The other seemed resolved, shook him oflT, and directed his bow again to the boat-keeper ;
but on my calling tu him, pointed it at me. Having a musket in my hand, loaded with
small-shot, I gave him the contents. This staggered him for a moment, but did not prevent
him from holding his bow still in tlie attitude of shooting. Another discharge of the same
nature made him drop it, and the others, who were in the conoe, to paddle off with all speed.
At this time, some began to shoot arrows on the other side. A musket discharged in the
air had no effect ; but a four-pound shot over their heads sent them off in the utmost con-
fusion. i\Tany quitted their canoes and swam on shore : those in the great cabin leaped out
of the windows ; and those who were on the deck, and on different parts of the rigging, all
leaped overboard. After this wo took no farther notice of them, but suffered them to come
oft' and pick up their canoes ; and some even ventured again alongside the ship. Immedi-
ately after the great gun was fired, we heard the beating of drums on shore ; which was,
probably, the signal for the country to assemble in arms. We now got everything in readi-
ness to land, to cut some wood, of which wo were in want, and to try to get some refresh-
ments, nothing of this kind having been seen in any of the canoes.

About nine o'cif><;k, we put off in two boats, and landed in the face of four or five hundred
people, who were assembled on the shore. Though they were all armed with bows and
arrows, clubs and spears, they made not the least opposition. On the contrary, seeing me
advance alone, with nothing but a green branch in my hand, one of them, who seemed to be
a chief, giving his bow and arrows to another, met me in the water, bearing also a green
branch, which having exchanged for the one I held, he then took me by the hand, and led
me up to the crowd. I immediately distributed presents to them, and, in the mean time,
the marines were drawn up on the beach. I then mado signs (for we understood not a word
of their language) that we ^ /anted wood ; and they made signs to us to cut down the trees.
By this time, a small pig being brought down and presented to me, I gave the bearer a piece
of cloth, with which he seemed well pleased. This made us hope that we should soon have
some more ; but we were mistaken. The pig was not brought to be exchanged for what we
had, but on some other account ; probably as a peace-offering. For all we could say or do
did not prevail on them to bring down, after this, above half-a-dozen cocoa-nuts, and a small
quantity of fresh water. They set no value on nails, or any sort of iron tools ; nor indeed
on anything we had. They would, now and then, exchange an arrow for a piece of cloth ;
but very seldom would part with a bow. They were unwilling we should go off the beach,
and very desirous we should return on board. At length, about noon, after sending what
wood we had cut on board, we embarked ourselves ; and they all retired, some one way and
some another.

Before we had dined, the afternoon was too far spent to do anything on shore ; and all
hands were employed, setting up the rigging, and repairing some defects in it. But seeing
a man bring along the strand a buoy, which they had taken in the night from the kedge-
anchor, I went on shore for it, accompanied by some of the gentlemen. The moment we
landed, it was put into the boat by a man who walked off again without speaking one word.
It ought to be observed, that this was the only thing they took, or even attempted to take
from us, by any means whatever. Being landsd near some of their plantations and houses,
which were just within the skirts of the woods, I prevailed on one man to conduct me to
them ; but, though they suffered Mr. Forster to go with me, they were unwilling any more
should follow. These houses were something like those of the other isles ; rather low, and
covered with palm thatch ; some were inclosed, or walled ro ind with boards ; and the
entrance to these was by a square hole at one end, which at thii time was shut up, and they
were unwilling to open it for us to look in. There were her- about six houses, and some
small plantations of roots, &c. fenced round with reeds as at the Friendly Isles. There were,
likewise, some bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and plantain trees ; but very little fruit on any of them.
A good many line yams were piled up upon sticks, or a kind of raised platform ; and about
twenty pigs, and a few fowls, were running about loose. After making these observations,
having embarked, we proceeded to the S.E. point of the harbour, where we again landed

July, ^'^^i^

J with liim ;
his purpose,
joat-kccpcr ;
loaded with
, not prevent
of the snmo
ith all speed,
arged in the
utmost con-
in leaped out
c rigging, all
hem to come
p. Immcdi-
; which wa8,
ling in readi-
some refrcsh-

■ five hundred
ith hows and
ry, seeing me
seemed to be
; also a green
liand, and led
c mean time,
)d not a word
jwn the trees,
hearer a piece
uld soon have
for what we
lid say or do
I, and a small
Is ; nor indeed
jiece of cloth ;
off the beach,
sending what
one way and

[liore ; and all
But seeing
the kedge-
moment we
Ing one word.
]»ptcd to take
and houses,
Induct me to
Jng any more
Ihcr low, and
Is; and the
lup, and they
}es, and some
There were,
lanyof them,
and about
jbservations,
Lgain landed

JiTi.v, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

40!)

and walked along the beach till wc could sec the islands to the S.V. already mentioned. The
names of these wo now obtained, as well as the name of that on which wo were. This tlioy
called Mallicollo * : the island that first appeared over the south end of Ambrym is called
Apec ; and the other, with the hill on it, I'aooni. AVo f()un<l on the beach a fruit like an
orange, called by them Abbi-niora, but whether it be fit for eating, I cannot say, as this was
decayed.

Proceeding next to the other side of the harbour, wo there landed, near a few houses, at
the invitation of some people who came down to the shore ; but we had not been there fivo
minutes before they wanted ua to be gone. We complied, and i)rocecded up the harbour in
order to sound it, and to look for fresli water, of which, as yet, wo had seen none, but the
very little that the natives brought, which wc knew not where they got. Nor was our search
now attended with success ; but this is no proof that there is not any. Tiio day was too
far spent to examine the place well enough to determine this point. Night having brought
us on board, I was informed that no soul had been off to the ship ; so soon was the curiosity
of these people satisfied. As we were coming on board, we heard the sound of a drum, and,
I think of some other instruments, and saw people dancing ; but as soon as they heard tlui
noise of the oars, or saw us, all was silent.

Being unwilling to lose the benefit of the moonlight nights, which now happened, at seven
A. M. on the 23d we weighed, and, wiMi a light air of wind, and the assistance of our boats,
proceeded out of the harbour ; the south end of which, at noon, bore W.S.W. distant about
two miles. When the natives saw us under sail, they came off in canoes, making exchanges
with more confidence than before, and giving such extraordinary proofs of their honesty as
surprised us. As the ship at first had fresh way through the water, several of them dropped
astern after they had received our goods, and before they had time to deliver theirs in return.
Instead of taking advantage of this, as our friends at the Society Isles would iiave done, they
used their utmost efforts to get up with us, and to deliver what they had already been paid
for. One man, in particular, followed us a considerable time, and did not reach us till it
was calm, and the thing was forgotten. As soon as ho came alongside, ho held up the
thing which several were ready to buy ; but he refused to part with it, till he saw the person
to whom he had before sold it, and to him he gave it. The person not knowing him again,
offered him something in return, which he refused, and showed him wliat he had given him
before. Pieces of cloth and marble paper were in most esteem with them ; but edge-tools,
nails, and beads, they seemed to disregard. The greatest number of canoes wc had alongside
at once did not exceed eight, and not more than four or five people in each ; who would
frequently retire to the shore all on a sudden, before they had disposed of half their things,
and then others would come off.

At the time we came out of the harbour, it was about low water, and great numbers of
people were then on the shoals or reefs which lie along the shore, looking, as we supposed,
for shell and other fish. Thus our being on their coast, and in one of their ports, did not
hinder them from following the necessary employments. By this time they might be
satisfied we meant them no harm ; so that, had we made a longer stay, wo might soon have
been upon good terms with this ape-like nation ; for, in general, they are the most ugly, ill-
proportioned people I ever saw, and in every respect different from any wc had met with in
this sea. They are a very dark-coloured and rather diminutive race ; with long heads, flat
faces, and monkey countenances. Their hair, mostly black or brown, is short and curly;
but not quite so soft and woolly as that of a negro. Their beards are very strong, crisj),
and bushy, and generally black and short. But what most adds to their deformity, is a belt,
or cord, which they wear round the waist, and tie so tight over the belly that the shape of
their bodies is not unlike that of an overgrown pismire. The men go quite naked, except a
piece of cloth or leaf used as a wrapper t.

• Or MallicoUa. Some of our people pronounced it
Maiiicolo or Mimicoln, and thus it is also written in
tiliiros's Memorial, as printed by Dalryniple, vol. ii. p.
146.

t The prticular manner of applying tlio wrapper mav

K k2

be seen in Wafer's Voyapo, wlio mentions tliis singu-
lar custom as ixislingr, though with some little vari:i-
tion, amongst the Indians of the Isthmus of Daricn. See
Wafer's Voyage, p. 140.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAOE ROUND THE WORLD.

July, 1774.

'! 11

Wo 6HW but fow woini-n, and tlicy were not loss ugly than the men : their heads, faces,
and HliouMerfl arc painted red ; they wear a kind of petticoat ; and sonic of them had souio-
tiiinT over tlieir shouldi!rs like a baju', in whicli tlicy carry tlieir chihlrcn. None of tliem
catnc off to the sliip, and thoy generally kept at a distance when wo were on nhoro. Their
ornaments arc ear-rinjjH, made of tortoiseshcll, and bracelets. A curious one of tho latter,
four or five inches broad, wrought with thread or cord, and studded with shells, is worn by
them just abovo the elbow. Round tho right wrist they wear hogs' tusks bent circular
an<l rings made of shells ; and round their left, a round piece of wood, which we judj^ed
was to ward off tho bow-string. Tho bridge of the nose is pierced, in which they wt ar a
piece of whito stone, about an inch and a half long, and in this shape.
As signs of friendship they present a green branch, and sprinkle water
with the hand over the head.

Their weapons arc clubs, spears, and bows and arrows. Tho two former are mado of
hard o. iron wov.- 1. Their bosvs are about four feet long, made of a stick split down tho
middle, and are not circular, but in this form. The arrows,
which are a sort of reeds, arc sometimes armed with a long and
sharp point, made of tho hard wood, and sometimes with a
very hard point made of bono ; and these points are all covered with a substance which we
took for poison. Indeed, the people themselves confirmed our suspicions, by making signs
to us not to touch the point, and giving us to understand, that if we were |)ricked by them
wo should die. They are very careful of them themselves, and keep them always wrapped
np in a quiver. Some of these arrows are armed with two or three points, each with small
prickles on the edges, to prevent the arrow being drawn out of the wound.

Tho people of Mallicollo seemed to be a quite different nation from any wo had yet mot
with, and speak a different language. Of about eighty words which Mr. Forster collected,
hardly one bears any affinity to the language spoken at any other island or place I had ever
been at. The letter R is used in many of their words ; and frequently two or three being
joined together, such words we found difficult to pronounce. I observed that they could
pronounce most of our words with great ea.-^e. They express their admiration by hissing
like a goose.

To judge of the country by the little we saw of it, it must bo fertile ; but I believe tlieir
fruits are not so good as those of the Society or Friendly Isles. Their cocoa-nut trees, I am
certain, are not ; and their bread-fruit and plaiitains did not seem much better. But their
yams appeared to be very good. We saw no other animals than those I have already
mentioned. They have not so much as a name for a dog, and consequently have none ; for
which reason we left them a dog and a bitch ; and there is no doubt they will be taken care
of, as they were very fond of them. After wo had got to sea, we tried what effect one of
the poisoned arrows would have on a dog. Indeed we had tried it in the harbour tho very
first night, but we thought tho operation had been too slight, as it had no effect. Tho
surgeon now made a deep incision in the dog's thigh, into which he laid a large portion of
the poison just as it was scraped from the arrows, and then bound up the wound with a
bandage. For several days after, wo thought tho dog was not so well as ho had been
before ; but whether this was really so, or only suggested by imagination, I know not. lie
was afterwards as if nothing had been done to him, and lived to be brought home to Eng-
land. However, I have no doubt of this stuff being of a poisonous quality, as it could
answer no other purpose. The people seemed not unacquainted with the nature of poisons ;
for when they brought us water on shore, they first tasted it, and then gave us to under-
stand we might with safety drink it.

This harbour, which is situated on the N.E. side of Mallicollo, not far from the S.E. end,
in latitude 10° 25' 20" S., longitude 167" 57" 23' E., I named Port Sandwich. It lies in
S.W. by S. about one league, and is one-third of a league broad. A reef of rocks extends
out a little way from each point ; but the channel is of a good breadth, and hath in it from
forty to twenty-four fathoms water. In the yiort, the depth of water is from twenty to four
fathoms ; and it is so sheltered that no winds can disturb a ship at anchor there. Another
great advantage is, you can lie so near the shore as to cover your people who may be at
work upon it.

July, 1774.

' heads, faces,
}m liad sotno-
N«)no of tliL'iu
Hlioro. TluMf
of the latter.
Is, is worn by
bent circulvr
ich woju(l(;o<l
li they wi ar a

cv arc mado of
split down tho

ancc which we
r making signs
icked by them
ways wrapped
ach with small

vo had yet mot
irster collected,
lace I had ever
or three being
hat they could
tion by hissing

I believe their

lilt trees, I am

cr. But their

have already

lave none ; for

je taken care

eft'ect one of

rboiir tho very

effect. Tho

irge portion of

wound with a

ho had been

ow not. IIo

lome to Eng-

as it could

ire of poisons ;

us to under-

the S.E. end.
It lies in
rocks extends
ath in it fruni
wenty to four
TO. Another
'\\o may be at

wmm

July, 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAOE ROUND THE WOULD.

fioi

CRAPTEn IV. — AN ACCOPNT OP TIIU niSCOVEUV f)F SRVrUAL ISLANDS, AN INTERVirw AND
HKIRMISII WITH TIIK INIIAHITANTS I TON ONK OK TllKM. Till: AUUIVAL UF Till) HlllI' AT
TANNA, AM) TIE HECEI'TION WE MET WITH TIIEItE.

Soon after we go', to sea, w»! had a breeze at E.S.K. with whicii we stood over for Atubryin
till three o'clock in tl;;. atteri:oon, when tho wind veering to E.N.I'L wo tacked and stretclied
to the S.E. and weathorod tho S.E. end of Mallicolio, off whicli we discovered three or four
small islands, that before appeared to be connected. At sunset the point bore S. 77' west,
distant three leagues, from whicli :iic toasi necmed to trend away went. At this time the
islo of Ambrym extended from N. :W>" E. to IJ. (J'r E. Tho isle ot I'uoom from N. 7(J^ E.
to S. 88' E. and the islo of Apeo from S. a*!' E. to S. 4.3" oast. We stood for this last islo,
which we reached by midnight, and then brought to till daybreak on tho 24th, when we
mado sail to tho S.E. with a view of plying up to the eastward on tho south side of Apeo.
At sunrise, we discovered several more islands, extending from the S.E. point of A pee to
the south as far as S.E. by S. The nearest to us wo reached by ten o'clock, and not being
ablo to weather it, wo tacked a mile from its shore in fourteen fathoms water. This island
is about four leagues in circuit, is remarkable by having three high peaked hills upon it, by
which it h.ts obtained that name. In tho r.M. the wind veering more to the north, we
resumed our course to the cast; and having weathered Threehills, stood for the group of
small isles which lie oft' the S.E. point of Apeo. Tliese I called Sliei)lierd's Isles, in honour
of my worthy friend Dr. Shepherd, Plumian professor of astronomy at Cambridge. Having
a fine breeze, I had thoughts of going through between them ; but tho channels being
narrow, and seeing broken water in the one wo were steering for, I gave up the design, and
bore up, in order to go without, or to the south of them. Before this could be accomplished,
it fell calm, and wo were left to the mercy of the current, close to tho isles, where we could
find no soundings with a lino of a hundred and eighty fathoms. AVe had now lands or
islands in every direction, and were not able to count tiie number which lay round us. Tho
mountain on Paoom was seen over tlio east end of Apee, bearing N.N.W. at eight o'clock.
A breeze at S.E. relieved us from the anxiety the calm had occasioned ; and we spent the
night making short boards.

Tho nif 'it before wo camo out of Port Sandwich, two reddish fish, about the size of largo
bream, and not unlike them, were caught with hook and line. On tiiese fish most of tlie
officers, and some of tho petty officers, dined the next day. The night following, every one
who had eaten of them was seized with violent pains in the head and bones, attended with
a scorching heat all over the skin, and numbness in the joints. There remained no doubt
that this was occasioned by tho fish being of a poisonous nature, and having communicated
its bad effects to all who partook of them ; even to the hogs and dogs. One of the former
died about sixteen hours after ; it was not long before one of the latter shared the same fate;
and it was a week or ten days, before all the gentlemen recoverei'. These mufct have been
the same sort of fish mentioned by Quiros*, under tho name of Pargcs, wiiich poisoned tho
crews of his ships, so that it was some time before they recovered ; and we should, doubt-
less, have been in the same situation, h.ad more of them been eaten.

At daybreak on the 25th, we made a short stretch to tho east of Shepherd's Isles till after
sunrise, when, seeing no more land in that direction, wo tacked and stood for the island wo
had seen in tho south, having a gentle breeze at S.E. We passed to the east of Threehills,
and likewise of a low isle, which lies on the S.E. side of it, between a remarkable peaked
rock which obtained the name of Monument, and a small island named Twohills, on account
of two peaked hills upon it, disjoined by a low and narrow isthnuis. The channel between
this island and the Monument is near a mile broad, and twenty-four fathoms deep. Except
this rock, which is only accessible to birds, wo did not find an island on which people were
not seen. At noon, we observed, in latitude 17° 18' 30" longitude, made from Port Sand-

• Dalryniple's Collection of Voyages, vol. i. p. 140, 141.

l*^

r
n

/? li

11 II'

,'!

fi02

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND TFIE WORLD.

Aug. 1774.

wich, 45' cast. In this situation tho Monument bore N. 1<»° cast, distant two miles ; Two-
liills bore N. 25° west, distant two miles, and in a line with tho S.W. part of Threehills ;
and tho islands to tho south extended from S. 16° 30' E, to S. 42° west.

Continuing our course to the south, at five p.m. we drew near the southern lands, which
we found to consist of one large island, whose southern and western extreniiiies extended
beyond our sight, and three or four smaller ones, lying off its north side. The two northern-
most arc much the .'argest, have a good height, and lie in the direction of E. by S. and W.
by N. from each other, distant two leagues. I named the one Montagu, and the other
Ilinchinbrook, and the large ishand Sandwich, in honour of my noble patron tho earl of
Sandwich. Seeing broken water a-head between Montagu and Ilinchinbrook Isles, we
tacked ; and soon after it foil calm. The calm continued till seven o'clock tlic next morning,
when it was succeeded by a breeze from the westward. During the calm, having been
carried by the currents and a S.E. swell, four leagues to tho W.N.W., we passed Ilinchin-
brook Isle, saw the western extremity of Sandwich Island, bearing S.S.W. about five
leagues distant, and at the same time discovered a small island to the west of this direction.
After getting the westerly breeze, I steered S.E. in order to pass between Montagu Isle and
the north end of Sandwich Island. At noon we were in the middle of the channel, and
observed in latitude 17° 31' S. The distance from one island to the other is about four or
five miles ; but the channel is not much above half that breadth, being contracted by breakers.
We had no soundings in it with a line of forty fp.lhoms.

As we passed Montagu Isle several people came down to the sea-side, and, by signs,
seemed to invite us ashore. Some were also seen on Sandwich Island, which exhibited
a most delightful prospect, b^Jng spotted with woods and lawns, agreeably diversified, over
the whole surface. It hath a gentle slope from the hills, which are of a moderate height,
down to the sea-coast. This is low and guarded by a chain of breakers, so that there is no
approaching it at this part. But more to the west, beyond Ilinchinbrook Island, there
seemed to run in a bay, sheltered from the reigning winds. The examining it not being so
much an object with me as the getting to the south, in order to find the southern extremity
of the archipelago, with this view I steered S.S.E., being the direction of tho coast of
Sandwich Island. AVc had but just got through the passage, before the west wind
left lis to variiiblc light airs and calms ; so that we were apprehensive of being carried
back again by the currents, or rather of being obliged to return in order to avoid being
driven on the shoals, as there was no anchorage, a line of a hundred and sixty fathoms not
reaching to the bottom. At length a breeze springing up at S.W., we stood to S.IL, and
at sunset the ISlonument bore N. 14° 30' W., and Montagu Island N. 28° AV., distant
three leagues. We judged we saw the S.E. extremity of Sandwich Island bearing about
S. by E.

We continued to stand to S.E. till four a.m. on the 27th, when we tacked to the west.
At sunrise having discovered a new land bearing south, and making in three hills, this
occasioned us to tack and stand towards it. At this time Montagu Isle bore N. 52° W.,
distant thirteen leagues ; at noon it was nearly in the same direction, and the new land
extended from S. -I E. to S. by W., and three hills seemed to be connected. Our latitude,
by observation, was 18° 1' S., and the longitude, made from Port Sandwich, 1° 23' E. We
continued to stand to the S.E. with a gentle breeze at S.W. and S.S.W. till the 28th at
sunrise, when, the wind veering to the south, we tacked and stood to the west. The three
hills mentioned above, we now saw belonged to one island, which extended from S. 35° to
71° W., distant about ten or twelve leagues.

Retarded by contrary winds, calms, and the currents that set to N.W., we were threi
days in gaining this space ; in which time we discovered an elevated land to the south
of this. It first appeared in detached hummocks, but we judged it to be connected. At
length, on the 1st of August, about ten a.m. we got a fine breeze at E.S.E,, which soon after
veered to N.E., and we steered for the N.W. side of the island. Reaching it about two
p.Ji., we ranged tlie west coast at one mile from shore, on which the "nhabitants appeared
in several parts, and by signs invited us to land. Wo continued to sound without finding
bottom, till we came before a small bay, or bending of tho coast, where, near a mile ft*..m

ilMr

fern

Auo. 1774.

miles; Two-
if Threchills ;

lands, which
fcies extended
wo northern-
jy S. and W.
,nd the other
II the earl of
lok Isles, we
loxt morning,

havinjT been
ssed llinehin-
'■. about five
this direction,
tagu Islo and
I channel, and

about four or
I by breakers.

md, by signs,
lich exhibited
versified, over
lerate height,
lat there is no
: Island, there
t not being so
lern extremity
f the coast of
le west wind
■ being carried
;o avoid being
y fathoms not
I to S.Ij., and
" W., distant
earing about

to the west.

iree hills, this

|c N. 52° W.,

ilic new land

Our latitude,

1° 23' E. We

the 28ih at

The throe

[■om S. 3 J' to

Ito

\'c were thrco
the south
nected. At

h soon after
It about two
nts appeared
hout finding

a mile ftvin

Auo. 1774.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

son

shore, we found thirty and twenty-two fathoms water, a san'iy bottom. I had thoughts of
anchoring here, but the wind almost instantly veered to N.W., which being nearly on shore,
I laid this design aside. Besides, I was unwilling to lose the opportunity that now offered
of getting to the south-east, in order first to ex|)lore the lands which lay there. I therefore
continued to range the coast to the south, at about the same distance from shore ; but we
soon got out of soundings. About a kagiie to the south of this bay, • ■'hich hath about two
miles extent, is another more extensive. Towards the evening, tiio breeze began to abate,
so that it was sunset before wc got the length of it. I intended not to stop here, and stand
to the south under an easy sail all night, but at eight oY-lock, as wc were steering S.S.E.,
we saw a light a-head. Not knowing but it might be on some low detached isle, dangerous
to approach while dark, we hauled the wind, and sj)ent tiie night standing off and on, or
rather driving to and fro ; for we had but very little wind.

At sunrise on the 2nd, wo saw no more land than the coast wc were upon ; but found
that the currents had carried us some miles to the north, and we attempted, to little
purpose, to regain what we had lost. At noon we were about a league from the coast,
which extended from S.S.E. to N.E. Latitude observed UP 40' S. In the afternoon,
finding the ship to drift, not only to the north, but in shore also, and being yet to the south
of the bay we passed the day before, I had thoughts of getting to an anchor before night,
while we had it in our power to make choice of a place. With this view, having hoisted
out two boats, one of them was sent a-head to tow the ship ; in the other Mr. Gilbert went
to fMiund for anchorajje. Soon after, the towinjr boat was sent to assist him. So much time
was spent in sounding this bay, that tlic ship drove past, wiiich made it necessary t'> call
the boats on board to tow her off from the northern point. But this service was performed
by a breeze of wind, which, that morkicnt, sprung up at S.W., so that as the boats got on
board, we hoisted them in, and then bore up for the nortii ci'lc of the island, intending
once more to try to get round by the east. Mr. Gilbert informed me that, at the south
part of the bay, he found no soundings till close to a steep stone beach, where he landed to
taste a stream of water he saw there, which proved to be salt. Some pe()i)le were seen
there, but they kept at a distance. Farther down the coast, that is to the north, he found
twenty, twenty-four, and thirty fathoms, three-fourths of a mile, or a mile from shore, the
botti)m a fine dark sand.

On the 3rd at sunrise, we found ourselves abreast a lofty ]iromontory on the S.E. side of
the island, and about three leagues from it. Having but little wind, and that from the
south, right in our teeth, and being in want of fire-wood, I sent Lieutenant Clerke with two
boats to a small islet which lies off the promontory, to endeavour to get some. In the
mean time we continued to ply up with tlic ship ; but what wo gained by our sails, we
lost by the current. At length, towards noon, we got a breeze at E.S.E. and E. with
wiiich wo could lie up for the head ; and soon after Mr. Clerke returned, liaving not been
able to land, on account of a high surf on the shore. They n)et with no people on the isle ;
but saw a large bat, and some birds, and caught a water-snake. At six o'clock p.ji. wo
got in with the land, under the N.W. side of the head, where we ancliored in seventeen
fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand, half-a-milc from shore ; the point of the head
bearing N. 18° E., distant half a league ; the little islet before-mentioned N.E. by E. ' E.,
and the N.W. point of the bay N. 32^ W. Many peoj)le apjieared on tiie shore, and some
attempted to swim off to us ; but having occasion to send the boat a-head to sound,
they retired as she drew near them. This, however gave us a favourable idea of them.

On tlie 4th, at daybreak, I went with two boats to examine the coast, to look for a
proper landing-place, wood, and water. At this time the natives began to assemble on the
shore, and by signs invited us to land. I went first to a small beach, which is towards the
head, where I found no good landing, on account of some rocks which everywhere lined the
coast. I, however, put the boat^s bow to the shore, and gave cloth, medals, i*v:c. to some
people who were there. For this treatment they otlvred to haul the boats over the breakers
to the sandy beach, which I thought a friendly offer, but had reason afterwards to alter my
opinion. When they found I would not do as they desired, they made signs for us to go
down into the bay, which we accordingly did, and they ran along shore abreast of Uo, their

: I '

Si'

' I;

I-

(:i

fi04

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Auo. 1774.

number increasing prodigiously. I put into the sliorc in two or throe places, but, not
liking the situation, did not land. By this time, I believe, the natives conceived what I
wauti'd, as tliey directed me round a rocky point, where, on a fine sandy beach, I stepped
out of the boat without wetting a foot, in tlie face of a vast multitude, witli only a green
branch in my hand, which I had before got from one of them. I took but one man out of
the boat witli me, and ordered the other boat to lie to a little distance oflF. They received
me with great courtesy and politeness, and would retire back from the boat on my making
the least motion with my hand. A man whom I took to be a chief, seeing this, made them
form a semicircle round the boat's bow, and beat such as attempted to break through this
order. This man I loaded with presents, giving likewise to others, and asked by signs for

BRBOH«NGO.

ii I

fresh water, in hopes of seeing where they got it. The chief immediately sent a man for
some, who ran to a house, and presently returned with a little in a bamboo ; so that I
gained but little information by this. I next asked, by the same means, for something to
eat ; and they as readily brought me a yam and some cocoa-nuts. In short, I was charmed
with their behaviour ; and the only thing which could give the least suspicion was, that
most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, and bows and arrows. For this reason
I kept my eye continually upon the chief, and watched his looks as well as his actions. lie
made many signs to me to haul the boat up upon the shore, and at last slipped into the
crowd, where I observed him speak to several people, and then return to me, repeating si^ns
to haul the boat up, and hesitating a good deal before he would receive some spike-nails
which I then offered him. Tiiis made me suspect something was intended, and immediately
I stepped into the boat, telling them by signs that I should soon return. But they were
not for parting so soon, and now attempted, by force, what they could not obtain by gcHtler
means. The gang-board hapi)encd unluckily to be laid o\it for me to come into the boat.
I say unluckily, for if it had not been out, and if the crew had been a little quicker in
getting the boat off, the natives might not have had time to put their design in execution,
nor would the following disagreeable scene have hap])ened. ii.s we were putting off the
boat, they laid hold of the gang-board, and unhooked it off the boat's stern, but as they did
not take it away, I thought this had been done by accident, and ordered the boat in a^ain
to take it up. Then they themselves hooked it over the boat's stern, and attempted to haul
her ashore ; others, at tlie same time, snatched the oars out of the people's hands. On my
pointing a musket at them, they in some measure desisted, but returned in an instant,
seemingly determined to haul the boat ashore. At the head of tins party was the chief;
the others, who could not come at the boat, :?tood behind with darts, stones, ivnd bows and
arrows in hand, ready to 8ui>port them. Signs and threats having no effect, our own safety

Aug. 1774.

CCS, but, not
eived what I
cli, I stepped
only a green
\e man out of
Chey received
n my making
a, made them
: tlirougli this
I by signs for

sent a man for

00 ; 80 that I

something to

was charmed

cion was, that

or this reason

s actions. lie

ipped into thn

epcating signs

e 8i)ike-nails

immediately

ut they were

ain by gentler

linto the boat.

e quicker in

in execution,

tting off the

t as they did

boat in again

|ipted to haul

ds. On my

1 an instant,

9 the chief;

nd bows and

r own safety

Ato. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

r,or>

became the only consideration ; and yet I was unwilling to fire on tho multitude, and
resolved to make the chief alone fall a victim to his own treachery; but my musket at this
critical monu-nt missed fire. Wliatcver idea they might have formtul of the arms we
held in our hands, they must now have looked upon them as ciiildish weapons, and began
to let us see how mucli better theirs were, by throwing stones and darts, and by shooting
arrows. This made it absolutely necessary for mc to give orders to fire. Tiie first dis-
charge threw them into confusion ; but a second was hardly sufficient to drive them off the
beach ; and, after all, they continued to throw stones from behind the trees and bushes, and,
every now and then, to pop out and throw a dart. Four lay, to all appearance dead, on tho
shore ; but two of them afterwards crawled into the bushes. Happy it was for these people,
that not half our muskets would go off, otherwise many more must have fallen. We liad
one man wounded in the cheek witii a dart, tht point of which was as thick as my finger,
and yet it entered above two inches ; which shoAvs that it must have come with great force,
though indeed we were very near them. An arrow struck 3Ir. Gilbert's naked breast,
who M'as about thirty yards off; but probably it had struck something bcforo; for it hardly
penetrated the skin, 'flic arrows were pointed with hard wood.

As soon as we got on board, I ordered the anchor to bo weighed, with a view of anchor-
ing near the landing-pl.ice. Wiiile this was doing, several people appeared on the low rocky
point, disjdaying two oars we had lost in the scuffle. I looked on this as a sign if submission,
and of their wanting to give us the oars. I was, nevertheless, prevailed on to fire a four-
pound shot at tliom, to let them see the effect of our great guns. The ball fell short, but
frightened them so much, that none were seen afterwards ; and they left the oars standing
up against the bushes. It was now calm ; but the anchor was hardly at the bow before a
breeze spnmg up at north, of which we took the advantage, set our sails, and plied out of
the bay, as it did not seem capable of supplying our wants, with that conveniency I wibhcd
to have. Besides, I always had it in my power to return to this place, in case I should find
none more convenient farthei south.

These islanders seemed to be a different race from those of MallicoUo, and spoke a different
language. They are of the middle size, have a good shape, and tolerable features. Their
colour is very dark, and they paint their faces, some with black, and others with red pig-
ment. Their hair is very curly and crisp, and somewhat woolly. I saw a few women, and
I thought them ugly ; they wore a kind of petticoat made of palm leaves, or some plant like
it. But the men, like those of MallicoUo, were in a manner naked ; having only the belt
about the waist, and the piece of cloth, or leaf, used as a wrapper *. I saw no canoes with
these people, nor were any seen in any part of this island. They live in houses covered with
thatch, and their plantiitions are laid out by line, and fenced round.

At two o^clock in the afternoon, we were clear of the bay, bore up round thi- head, and
steered S.S.E. for the south end of the island, having a fine breeze at N.W. On the S.W.
side of the head is a pretty deep bay, which seemed to run in behind the one on the N.W.
side. Its shores are low, and the adjacent lands appeared very fertile. It is exj.osed to the
S.E. winds; for which reason, until it be better known, the N.W. bay is preferable, because
it i>! sheltered from the reigning winds; and the winds to which it is open, viz. from N.W.
by N. to E. by N. seldom blow strong. The promontory, or peninsula, which disjoins
these two bays, I named Traitor's Head, from the treacherous behaviour of its inhabitants.
It is the N.E. point of the island, situated in the latitude i{{" 4.'$' south, longitude 1C9"20'
east, and terminates in a saddle hill which is of height sufficient to be seen sixteen or eighteen
leagues. As we advanced to S.S.E., the new island we had before discovered began to
appear over the S.E. point of the one near us, bearing S. 4 E. distant ten or twelve leagues.
After leaving this one, wo steered for the east end of the other, being directed by a great
light we saw upon it.

At one o'clock tho next morning, drawing near the shore, we tacked, and spent tho
remainder of tho night making short boards. At sun-rise, we discovered a high table land
(an island) bearing E. by S., and a small low isle in the direction of N.N.E. which we had

• See the note, p. 499.

■ 1 >

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1 ■ 1

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£06

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Auo. 1774-

passed in the night without seeing it- Traitor's Head was still in sight, bearing N. 20"
West, distant fifteen leagues, and the ishvnd to the south extended from 8. 7° West to S. 87"
West, distant tliree or four miles. We then found that tlie light we had seen in the night
was occasioned by a volcano, which we observed to throw uj) vast quantities of fire and
smoke, with a rumbling noise heard at a great distance. We now made sail for the island ;
and, presently after, discovered a small inlet which had the appearance of being a good
harbour. In order to be better informed, I sent away two armed boats under the command
of Lieutenant Cooper, to sound it ; and, in the mean while, we stood on and off with the
ship, to be ready to follow, or give them any assistance they might want. On the east i)oint
of tile entrance, we observed a number of people, and several houses and canoes ; and when
our boats entered the harbour they launched some, and followed them, but came not near.
It was not long before Mr. Cooper made the signal for anchorage ; and we stood in with the
ship. The wind being at west, and our course S.S. W. we borrowed close to the west point,
and passed ovcrsonie sunken rocks, which might have been avoided by keeping a little more
to the east, or about one-third channel over. The wind left us as soon as we were within
the entrance, and obliged us to drop an anchor in four fathoms water. After this, the boats
were sent again to sound ; and, in the mean time, the launch was hoisted out, in order to
carry out anchors to warp in by, as soon as we should be acquainted with the channel.

While we were thus employed, many of the natives got together in parties, on sevoral
parts of the shore, all armed with bows, spears, &c. Some swam off to us, others came in
canoes. At first they were shy, and kept at the distance of a stone's throw; they grew
insensibly bolder ; and at last, came under our stern, and made some exchanges. The people
in one of the first canoes, af-ter coming as near as they durst, threw towards us some cocoa-
nuts. I went into a boat and picked them up, giving them in return some cloth and other
articles. This induced others to come inider the stern, and alongside, where their behaviour
was insolent and daring. They wanted to carry off everything within their reach ; they got
hold of the fly of the ensign, and would have torn it from the staff; others attempted to
knock the rings off the rudder ; but the greatest trouble they gave us was to look after the
buoys of our ancliors, which wes e no sooner thrown out of the boats, or let go from the ship,
than they got hold of them. A few muskets fired in the air had no effect; but a four-
pounder frightened them so much, that they quitted their canoes that instant, and took to
the water. But as soon as they found themselves unhurt, they got Jigain into their canoes ;
gave us some halloos ; flourished their weapons ; and returned once more to the buoys. TIi's
put us to the expense of a few musketoon shot, which had the desired effect. Although
none were hurt, they were afterwards afraid to come near the buoys ; very soon all retired
on shore ; and we were permitted to sit down to dinner undisturbed.

During tliese transactions, a friendjy old man in a small canoe made several trips between
us and the shore, bringing off each time a few cocoa-nuts, or a yam, and taking in exchange
whatever we gave him. Another was on the gangway, when the great gun was fired, but
I could not prevail on him to stay there long. Towards the evening, after the ship was
moored, I landed at the head of the harbour, in the S.E. corner, with a strong party of men,
without any opposition being made by a great number of the natives who were assembled
in two parties, the one on our right, the other on our left, armed with clubs, darts, spears,
slings and stones, bows and arrows, &c. After distributing to the old people, (for we could
distinguish no chief.) and some others, presents of cloth, medals, &c., I ordered two casks
to be filled with water out of a pond about twenty paces behind the landing-place ; giving
the natives to understand that this was one of the articles we wanted. ' Besides water, we
got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed to be in plenty on the trees ; but they could
not be prevailed upon to part with any of their weapons. These they held in constant
readiness, and in the proper attitudes of offence and defence ; so that little was wanting to
make them attack us ; at least we thought so, by their pressing so much upon us, and in
spite of our endeavours to keep them off. Our early re-embarking probably disconcerted
their scheme ; and after that, they all retired. The friendly old man before mentioned was
in one of these parties; and we judged, from his conduct, that his temper was pacific.

Auo. 177-1'

ring N. 20^
st to S. 87'>
n the night
of fire and
tlie island ;
L'ing a good
ic command
,ff with the
le cast point
; and when
lie not near,
in with the
west point,
;v little more
were within
is, the boats
, in order to
ihannel.
i, on sev<"ral
lers came in
; they grew
The people
some cocoa-
th and other
nr behaviour
,ch ; they got
attempted to
ook after the
i-om the ship,
but a four-
and took to
icir canoes ;
luoys. Th's
Although
m all retired

rips between
in exchange
as fired, but
bhe ship was
irty of men,
fc assembled
[arts, spears,
Ifor we could
Id two casks
lace; giving

l-s water, we
they could

in constant
wanting to

fi us, and in

llisconccrted
itioncd was

lacific.

Ai'o. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROU.VD THE WORLD.

507

CHAPTER V. AN INTERCOURSE ESTAHLTSHED WITH TlIE NATIVES ; SOME ACCOUNT OP THE

ISLAND ; AND A VARIKTY OF INCIDENTS THAT llAl'l'ENED DURING OUR STAY AT IT.

As we vvantfd to take in a large quantity botii of wood and water, and as, when I was
on shore, I had found it practicable to lay the shij) much nearer the landing-place tlian she
now was, which would greatly facilitate that work, as well as overawe tlie natives, and
enable us better to cover and j)rotect the working party on shore ; with this view, on the Oth,
we went to work to transport the ^^hip to the place I designed to moor lier in. While we
were about this, we observed the natives assembling from all parts, and forming themselves
into two parties, as they did the prec<'ding evening, one on eacli side the landing-])lace, to
the amount of some thousands, armed as before. A canoe, sometimes conducted by one,
and at other times by two or three men, now and then came oft", bringing a few cocoa-nuts
or plantains. These they gave us without asking for any return ; but 1 took care tliat they
should always have something. Their chief design seemed to be to invite us on shore. One
of those who came ofi^ was the old man who had already ingratiated himself into our favour.
I made him understand, by signs, thai; they were to lay aside their weapons, took those
which were in the canoe and threw them overboard, and made him a present of a large
piece of cloth. There was no doubt that he understood me, and made my request known
to his countrymen. For as soon as he landed we observed him to go first to the one party,
and then to the other ; nor was he, ever after, seen by us with any thing like a weapon in
his hand. After this, three fellows came in a canoe under the stern, one of them brandishing
a club, with which he struck the ship's side, and committed other acts of defiance, but at last
offered to exchange it for a string of beads, and some other trifles. These were sent down
to him by a line; but the moment they were in his possession, he and his companions
paddled off in all haste, without giving the club, or anything else, in return. This was wliat
I expected, and indeed wliat I was not sorry for, as I wanted an ojjportunity to show the
multitude on shore the effect of our fire-arms, witiiout materially hurting any of them.
Having a fowling-piece loaded with small shot, (No. 3,) I gave the fellow the contents ; and,
when they were above m'uskct-shot off, I ordered some of the musketoons, or wall-pieces,
to be fired, which made them leap out of the canoe, keep under her off side, and swim with
her ashore. This transaction seemed to make little or no impression on the people there.
On the contrary, they began to halloo, and to make sport of it.

After mooring the ship, by four anchors, with her broadside to the landing-place, hardly a
musket-shot off, and placing our artillery in such a manner as to command the whole
harbour, I embarked with the marines, and a party of seamen, in three boats, and rowed in
for the shore. It hath been already mentioned, that the two divisions of the natives
wore drawn up on each side the landing-place. They had left a space between them of
about thirty or forty yards, in which were laid, to the most advantage, a few small bunches
of plantains, a yam, and two or three roots. Between these and the water were stuck
upright in the sand, for what purpose I never couhl learn, four small reeds, about two feet
from each other, in a line at right angles to the shore, w here they remained for two or three
days after. The old man before mentioned, and two more, stood by these things, inviting us
by signs to land ; but I had not forgot the trap I was so near being caught in at tlie last
island ; and this looked something like it. We answered, by making signs for the two
divisions to retire farther back, and give us more room. The old man seemed to desire them
so to do, but no more regard was paid to him than to us. JVIorc were continually joining
them, and, except two or three old men, not one unarmed. In short, everything consjiired
to make us believe they meant to attack us as soon as we should be on shore ; the consequence
of which was easily supposed ; many of them nnist have been killed and wounded, and we
should hardly have escaped unhurt ; two things I equally wished to prevent. Since, there-
fore, they would not give us the room we required, I thought it was better to frighten them
into it, than to oblige them by the deadly effect of our fire-arms. I accordingly ordered a
musket to bo fired over the party on our right, which was by far the strongest body ; but
the alarm it gave them was momentary. In an instant they recovered themselves, and began
to display their weapons. One fellow showed us bis backside, in a manner which plainly

' I

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ill

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fTTT

S08

COOK'S SECOND VOVAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Auo. 1774.

'','i;

conveyed his meaning. After tliia I ordered three or four muskets to ho fired. This was
the signal for the ship to fire a few great guns, which presently dispersed them ; and then
we lauded, and marked out the liu)its, on the right and left, hy a line. Our old friend stood
his ground, though deserted by his two companions, and I rewarded his confidence with a
present. Tlic natives came gradually to us, seemingly in a more friendly manner ; some
even without their weapons, but by far the greatest part brought them ; and when we made
signs tc lay them down, they gave us to imderstand that we must lay down ours first. Thus
all parties stood armed. The presents I made to the old people, and to such as seemed to be
of consequence, had little effect on their conduct. They indeed climbed the cocoa-nut trees,
and threw us down the nuts, without requiring any thing for them ; but I took care that
they should always have somewhat in return. I observed that many were afraid to touch
what belonged to us ; and they seemed to have no notion of exchanging one thing for another.
I took the old man, whoso name we now found to be Paowang, to the woods, and made him
understand I wanted to cut down some trees to take on board the ship ; cutting some down
at the same time, which we put into one of our boats, together with a few small casks of
water, with a view of letting the people see what it wwo v.-e chiefly wanted. Paowang
very readily gave his consent to cut wood ; nor was there any one who made the least
objection. He only desired the cocoa-nut trees might not be cut down. Matters being thus
settled, we embarked and returned on board to dinner, .and immediotely after they all
dispersed. I never learnt that any one w.as hurt by our shot, either on this or the preceding
day ; which was a very happy circumstance. In the afternoon, having landed again, we
liaded the launch with water, and having made three hauls with the seine, caught upwards
o: three hundred pounds of .mullet and other fish. It wsis some time before .any of the natives
appeared, and not above twenty 'or thirty at last, amongst whom was our trusty friend
P.icwang, who m.ado us a present of a sm.all pig, which was the only one we got at this isle,
or that was offered us.

During the night, the volcano, which w.as about four miles to the west of us, vomited up
vast quantities of fire .and smoke, as it had also done the night before ; and the flames were
seen to rise above the hill which Lay between us .and it. At every eruption, it made a long
rumbling noise like that of thunder, or the blowing up of large mines. A heavy shower of
rain, which fell at this time, seemed to increase it ; and the wind blowing from the s.ame
quarter, the air was loaded with its ashes, which fell so thick that every thing was covered
with the dust. It was a kind of fine sand or stone, ground or burnt to powder, and was
exceedingly troublesome to the eyes.

Early in the morning of the 7th, the natives begivn again to assemble near the watering-
place, armed as usual, but not in such numbers as at first. After breakfast we landed, in
order to cut wood and fill w.ater. I found many of the islanders much inclined to be friends
with us, especially the old people ; on the other hand, most of the younger were daring and
insolent, and obliged us to keep to our arms. I staid till I saw no disturbance was like to
happen, and then returned to the ship, leaving the p.arty under the command of Lieutenants
Gierke and Edgcumbe. When they came on board to dinner, they informed me that the
people continued to behave in tlio same inconsistent manner .as in the morning ; but more espe-
cially one m.an, whom Mr. Edgcumbe was obliged to fire at, and believed he had struck with
a swan-shot. After that, the others behaved with more discretion ; and as soon as our
people embarked, they all retired. While we were sitting at dinner, an old man came on
bo.ard, looked into m.any parts of the ship, and then went .ashore again.

In the afternoon, only a few of those who lived in the neighbourhood, with whom we
were now upon a tolerable footing, made their appearance at the watering-place. Paowang
brought us an axe which had been left by our people, either in the woods or on the beach,
and found by some of the native. A few other articles were afterwards returned to us
which either they h.ad stolen, or we had lost by our negligence. So careful were they now
not to offend us in this respect. Early the next morning I sent the launch, protected by
a party of marines in another boat, to take in b.allast, which we wanted. This work v;.as
done before breakfast ; and after it, she was sent for wood and water, and with her the
people employed in this service under the protection of a Serjeant's guard, which was now

^ !

•

Aug. 1774.

This was
1 ; and then
friend stood
Icnce with a
inner ; some
icn we made
(first. Thus
jecmcd to be
ua-nut trees,
ok care that
■aid to touch
for another,
id made him
; some down
lall casks of
I, Paowang
de the least
irs being thus
ifter they all
,he preceding
id again, we
ght upwards
of the natives
trusty friend
it at this isle,

, vomited up
J flames were
i made a long
vy shower of
)m the same
was covered
der, and was

he watcring-
ve landed, in
to be friends
■e daring and
was like to
Lieutenants
me that the
t more espo-
struck with
soon as our
lan came on

|th whom we
Paowang
the beacli,
Iturned to us
tre they now
[protected by
liis work v.-as
vith her the
I was now

Aug. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

thought sufficient, as the natives seemed to be pretty well reconciled to us. I was told,
that tliey asked our people to go home with tlieiu, on condition they stripped nakeil
as they were. This shows that they had no design to rob tliem, whatever other they
miglit have.

On tlie 9th, I sent the launch for more ballast, and the guard and woodors to the usual
place. With these I went myself, and found a good niuny of the natives collected togither,
whose beliaviour, though armed, was courteotis and obliging ; so that there was no longer
any occasion to mark out the limits by a Une ; they observed them without this precaution.
As it was necessary for Mr. Wales's instruments to remain on shore all the midillo of the
day, the guard did not return to dinner, as they had done before, till relieved by others.
When I came oft', I prevtailed on a young man, wliose name was Wha-a-gou, to acccmipany
me. Before dinner I showed him every ])art of the ship ; but did not observe that any one
thing fixed his attention a moment, or caused in him the least sur])rise. IIo had no know-
ledge of goats, dogs, or cats, calling them all hogs {liooi/a or liotii/as), I made him
a present of a dog and a bitch, as he showed a liking to that kind of animal. Soon after ho
came on board, some of his friends followed in a canoe, and inquired for him, probably
doubtful of his safety. He looked out of the quarter-gallery, and having sjioken to them,
they went ashore, and quickly returned with a cock, a little sugar-cane, and a few cocoa-
nuts, as a present to me. Thotigh he sat down with us, he did but just taste our salt pork,
but ate pretty heartily of yam, and drank a glass of wine. After dinner I made him
presents, and then conducted him ashore.

As soon as we landed, the youth and some of his friends took mo by the hand with
a view, as I understood, to conduct me to their habitations. We had not gone far, before
some of them, for what reason I know not, were unwilling I should proceed ; in consequence
of which the whole company stopped ; and, if I was not mistaken, a person was despatclud
for something or other to give me ; for I was desired to sit down and wait, which I accordingly
did. During this interval, several of our gentlemen passed us, at which they showed great
uneasiness, and importuned me so much to order tlieni back, that I was at last obliged to
comply. They were jealous of our going up the country, or even along the shore of the
harbour. "While I was waiting here, our friend Paowang came with a present of fruit and
roots, carried by about twenty men ; in order, as I supposed, to make it ajipear the greater.
One had a small bunch of plantains, another a yam, a third a cocoa-nut, &e. : but two men
might have carried the whole with ease. This present Avas in return for something T had
given him in the morning ; however, I thought the least I could do now was to pay the
porters. After I had despatched Paowang, I returned to Whrt^a-gou and his friends, who
were still for detaining me. They seemed to wait with great impatience for something,
and to be unwilling and ashamed to take away the two dogs, without making me a return.
As night was approaching, I pressed to be gone; with which they complied, and so
we parted.

The preceding day, Mr. Forster learnt from the peojde the proper name of tlie island,
which they call Tanna ; and this day I learnt from them the names of those in the neigh-
bourhood. The one we touched at last is called Erromango * ; the small isle which wo
discovered the morning we landed here, Inimer ; the Table Island to the east, discovered .at
the same time, Erronan or Foottoona ; and an island which lies to the S.E. Annattom. All
these islands are to be seen from Tanna.

They gave us to understand, in a manner which I thought admitted of no doubt, that
they eat human flesh, and that circimicision was practised among them. Tiny began the
subject of eating human flesh of their own accord, by asking us if we did ; otherwise I

♦ II was at tliis island tliat tlic woll-kiiown missionary
Jolm Williams lost his lifo in IblJt), in a fray occasioned
l)y a niisundei standing with llic natives. This excellent
and indcfatigahlc minister of the Gospel was hrcd asmitli ;
but notwithstanding the disadvantages of his early life,
liis 7.eal and energy enabled him to surmount those difli-
niltieg, and not only to qualify hinisilf for a preacher,
bi't to attain considerable skill in other branches of
knowledge, which under the guidance of the strong

common sense which was his peculiar characteristic,
rendered him one of the most efficient instructors of tlio
heathen that has ever adventured upon that ditlicult task.
Ilia work, entitled " Missionary Enterprises in the South
Sea Islands," is not only interesting from its immediate
subject, but is attractive from its plain and nervous style,
and from the vaticty of iiiformalioii it contains. The
notices on the language and races of the inhabitants arc
very valuable. — Ku.

*'■

■' i 1

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i';,|-'

510

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

A I'd, 1774.

should never have thought of asking them snch a question. I have heard people argue that
no nation could he cannihals, if they had other flesh to cat, or did not want food ; tlius
deriving the custon'i from necessity. The people of this island can he under no such necessity;
tliey have fine pork and fowls, and plenty of roots and fruits. But since wo have not
actually seen them cat human flesh, it will admit of doubt with some, whether they aro
cannibals.

When I got on board, I learnt that, when the launch was on the west side of the harbour
taking in balla^^t, one of the men employed on this work had scalded his fingers in taking
a stone up out of some water. This circumstance produced the discovery of several hot
springs at the foot of the clifl\, and rather below high-water mark. This day, Mr. Wales
and two or three of the officers advanced a little, fur the first time, into tlio island. They
met with a straggling village, the inhabitants of which treated them with great civility ;
and the next morning, Mr. Forster and his party, and some others, made another excursion
inland. They met with several fine plantations of plantains, sugar-canes, yams, &c. ; and
the natives were courteous and civil. Indeed, by this time, the people, especially those
in our neighbourhood, were so well reconciled to us, that they showed not the least dislike
at our rambling about in the skirts of the woods, shooting, &c. In the afternoon, some
boys having got behind thickets, and having thrown two or three stones at our people, who
were cutting wood, they were fired at by the petty oflicers present on duty. Being ashore
at the time, I was alarmed at hearing the report of the muskets, and seeing two or three
boys run out of the wood. Wiien I knew the cause, I was much displeased at so wanton
a use being made of our fire-arms, and took measures to prevent it for the future.

VIKU' IN TIIR ISLAND OK TANNA.

Wind southerly, with heavy showers of rain. During the night, and also all the
11th, the volcano was exceedingly troublesome, and made a terrible noise, throwing
up prodigious columns of fire and smoke at each explosion, which happened every
three or four minutes ; and at one time, great stones were feen high in the air. Besidi s
the necessary work of wooding and watering, we struck the maintopmast to fix new
trestle-trees and back-stays. 3!r. Forster and his party went up the hill on the west
side of the harbour, where he found three places from whence smoke of a sulphureous
smell issued, through cracks or fissures in the earth. The ground about those was
exceedingly hot, and parched or burnt, and they seemed to keep pace with the volcano,

mrsmm^mm^^.

AvQ. 1774.

) argno that
fuod ; thus
li necessity;
Q have not
er they are

the harbour
3 in taking
several hot
, Mr. Wales
and. They
?at civility ;
cr excursion
s, &c. ; and
ioially those
least dislike
rnoon, some
people, who
Being ashore
;wo or three
b so wanton

lilso all the

throwing

lened every

[r. Besides

|to fix new

the west

sulphureous

these was

Ihe volcano,

Aio. 1774.

( OOKS SK( «»M) VoYAtJE HOUND THE WuULD.

:.ii

for at every explosion of the latter, the (piantity of smoke or steam in these was greatly
increased, and forced out so as to rise in small columnn, whicli we saw from the ship, and
had taken for common fires made by the natives. At the foot of this hill are the hot si)riugs
before mentioned. In the afternoon Mr. Forster, havinji beiiun his botanical researches on
the other side of the harbour, fell in with our friend Paowang's house, where he saw most
of the articles I had given him, hanging on the adjoining trees and bushes, as if they were
not worthy of being under his roof.

On the 12th, some of the officers accompanied Mr. Forster to the hot places he had been
at the [)receding day. A thermometer placed in a little hole made in one of them rose from
80, at which it stood in the open air, to 1 70. Several other parts of the hill emitted smoke
or steam all the day, and the volcano was unusually furious, insomuch that the air was
loaded with its ashes. The rain which fell at this time was a compound of water, sand,
and earth ; so that it properly might be called showers of mire. Whichever way the wind
was, we were plagued with the ashes ; unless it blew very stronnr indeed from the opposite
direction. Notwithstanding the natives seemed well enough satisfied with the few expe-
ditions we had made in the neighbourhood, they were unwilling we should extend them
farther. As a proof of this, some undertook to guide the gentlemen, wlien they were in
the country, to a jdace where they might sec the mouth of the volcano. They very
readily embraced the ofier, and were conducted down to the harbour before they perceived
the cheat.

The 13th, wind at N.E., glcomy weather. 'J'iie only thing worthy of note this day
was, that Paowang being at dinner with us on board, I took the opportunity to show
him several parts of the ship, and various articles, in ho])e3 of finding out something wliich
they might value, and bo induced to take from us in exchange for refreshments ; for
what wo got . f this kind was trifling. But he looked on everything that was shown
him with the utmost indiflference ; nor did he take notice of any one thing except a
wooden sand-box, which he seemed to admire, and turned two or three times over in
his hand.

Next morning, after breakfast, a party of us set out for the country, to try if we
could not get a nearer and better view of the volcano. AVe went by the way of one of
those hot smoking places before mentioned, and dug a hole in the hottest part, into whit:li
a thermometer of Fahrenheit's construction was jiut ; and the mercury presently rose
to 100". It remained in the hole two minutes and a half without cither rising or fallini;.
Tlie earth about this i)lace was a kind of white clay, had a sulphureous smell, and was
soft and wet, the surface only excepted, over which was spread a thin dry crust, that had
ni)on it some sulphur, and a vitriolic substance, tasting like alum. The place affiicted
by the heat was not above eight or ten yards square ; and near it wore some fig-trees,
which spread their branches over a part of it, and seemed to like their situation. Wc
thought tliat this extraordinary heat was caused by the steam of boiling water, strongly
impregnated with sulphur. I was told that some of the other places were larger than
this; though we did not go out of the road to look at them, but proceeded up the
hill throiigh a country so covered with trees, shrubs, and ])lants, that the bread-fruit
and cocoa-nut trees, which seem to have been planted here by nature, were in a manner
choked up. Here and there we met with a house, some few people, and plantations.
These latter we found in diflerent states ; some of long standing, others lately cleared,
and some only clearing, and before anything had been planted. The clearing a piece of
ground for a plantation seemed to be a work of much labour considering the tools tiiey had
to work with, which, though much inferior to those at the Society Isles, are of the same
kind. Their method is, however, judicious, and as expeditious as it can well be. They
lop oft" the small branches of the large trees, dig under the roots, and there burn the
branches and small shrubs and plants which they root up. The soil in some parts is a
rich black mould ; in other parts it seemed to be composed of decayed vegetables and of
the ashes the volcano sends forth throughout all its neighbourhood. Happening to
turn out of the common path, w<> came into a plantation, where we found a man at
work, who, either out of good-nature, or to get us the sooner out of his territories, under-

i! ii

:i ,\\

;i?

f ,-.

hi'!

512

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE HOUND THE WOULD.

Aio. 1774.

took to be our guide. Wo followed liim accordiugly, but bad not gone far beforj wo
came to the junction of two roads, in one of which stood another man with a sling and a
stone, which ho thought pr()])er to lay down when a musket was ])ointed at him. Tiic
attitude in whicli we found him, the ferocity appearing in his looks, and his behaviour
after, convinced us that ho meant to defend the path lie .st(i<id in. Ho in soujo measure
gained his point ; for our guide took the other roiul, and we followed ; but not with-
out suspecting he was leading us o»it of the connuou way. The other man went with
us likewise, counting us several times over, and hallooing, as we judged, for assist-
ance; for we were i)rcsently joined by two or tiireo more, among wiiom was a young
woni?.n with a ilub in her hand. By these people wc were conducted to tho brow of
a hill, and shown a road leading down to the harbour, which they wanted us to take.
Not choosing to comply, we returned to that we had left, which we pursued alone,
our guide refusing to go with us. After ascending another ridge, as thickly covered
with wood as those we bad come over, we ,.a. yet otlur hills between ns and the
volcano, which seemed as far oft' as at our first setting out. This discouraged ua from
proceeding farther, especially as wo could get no one to bo our guide. AVe therefore
came to a resolution to return ; and had but just put this in execution, when we met
between twenty and thirty people, whom the fellow before mentioned bad collected
together, with a design, as we judged, to oppose our advancing into the country ; but as
they saw us returning, they suffered us to pass unmolested. Some of them put us into
the riglit road, accompanied us down the hill, made ns stop by the way to entertain us
with cocoa-nuts, plantains,, and sugar-cane ; and what we did not eat on tho s])ot they
brought down the hilt with us. Thus, we found these people hospitable, civil, and good-
natured, when not prompted to a contrary conduct by jealousy ; a conduct I cannot tell
bow to blame them for, especially when I consider ''le light in which they must view us.
It was impossible for them to know our real dv^r a; we enter their ports without their
daring to oppose ; we endeavour to land in their country as friends, and it is well if this
succeeds ; we land nevertheless, and maintain the footing we have got, by the superiority
of our lire-arms. Under such circumstances, what opinion are they to form of us ? Is it
not as reasonable for them to think that we come to invade their country, as to pay them
a friendly visit ? Time, and some acquaintance with us, can only convince them of the
latter. These people are yet in a rude state; and, if we may judge from circumstances and
appearances, are frequently at war, not only with their neighbours, but among themselves ;
consequently must bo jealous of every new face. I will allow there are some exceptions
to this rule to be found in this sea ; but there are few nations who would willingly suffer
visitors like us to advance far into their country.

Before this excursion, some of us bad been of opinion that these people were addicted
to an unnatural passion, because they had endeavoured to entice some of our men into
the woods ; and, in particular, I was told, that one who had the care of 3Fr. Forster's
plant-bag; bad been, once or twice, attempted. As tho carrying of bundles, ike, is
the office of the women in this country, it had occurred to me, and I was not
singular in this, that the natives might mistake him, and some others, for women.
My conjecture was fully verified this day : for this man, who was one of the party,
and carried the bag as usual, following mo down the hill, by the words which I
understood of the conversation of tlie natives, and by their actions, I was well assured
that they considered him as a female ; till, by some means, they discovered their mis-
take, on which they cried out Errammiffc ! Erramangc ! "It's a man! It's a man!"
The thing was so palpable that every one was obliged to acknowledge, that they had
before mistaken his sex ; and that, after they were undeceived, they seemed not to have
the least notion of Avhat we had suspected. This circumstance will show how liable
we are to form wrong conjectures of things, among people whoso language we are
ignorant of. Had it not been for this discovery, I make no doubt that these people
would have been charged with this vile custom.

In the evening I took a walk, with some of the gentlemen, into the country on the other
side of the harbour, where we had very different treatment from what we had met with in

Ai«. 1774.

■ beforj wo
sling and a
him. The
s boliavioiir
no nica!<uro
t not with-
went witli
for assist-
as a young
ho brow of
us to take,
rsuod alone,
kly covorod
us ami tho
get! us from
re therefore
lien wo met
ail collected
itry ; but as
put us into
entertain us
10 spot they
il, and good-
I cannot tell
lust view us.
without their
is well if this
c superiority
jf us ? Is it
to pay them
them of the
instances and
themselves ;
e exceptions
lllingly suffer

rcrc addicted
|ur men into
jlr. Forster's
[dies, ike, is
I was not
[for women,
the party,
[ds which I
kvell assured
tl their niis-
,'a a man !"
it they had
to have
how liable
lace we are
;hese people

m the other
Imet with in

At'o. 1774.

COOK'S SFXONl) VOYACK ROUND THE WORLD.

/il.T

tlio morning. The peoj)le wo now visited, among whom was our friend Paowang, being
better acquainted with tis, showed a readiness to oblige ns in everything in tluir jiower.
AVc came to the village; which ha<l been visited on tho J)tli. It consisted of about twenty
houses, tho most of which need no other description than comparing them to the roof of a
thatched house in l']iigland taken oil" the walls and placed on the ground. Some were open
at both ends, othoi's jiartly closed with reeds ; and all were covered with palm thatch. A
few of them were thirty or forty feet long, and fourteen or sixteen broad. Besides these,
they have other mean hovels, which, I conceived, were only to sleep in. Some of these stood
in a plantation, and I was given to understand that in one of them lay a dead corpse. They
made signs that described sleep, or death ; and circumstances jiointed out tho latter. Curious
to see all I could, I ])rcvailed on an elderly man to go with me to tho hut, which was sepa-
rated from the others by a reed fence, built (piito round it, at the distance of four or five feet.
Tho entrance was by a space in the fence, made so low as to admit one to step over. Tho
two sides and one end of tho hut were closed or built up in the same manner, and with the
same materials, as the roof. The other end had been open, but was now well closed up with
mats, which I could not prevail on the man to remove, or suffer mo to do it. There Inuig at
this end of the hut a matted bag or basket, in which was a piece of roasted yam, and some
sort of leaves, all quite fresh. I had a strong desire to see the inside of the hut, but the man
was peremptory in refusing this, and even showed an unwillingness to permit me to look
into the basket. IIo wore round his neck, fastened to a string, two or three locks of human
hair ; and a woman present had several about her neck. I offered something in exchange
for them ; but they gave me to understand they could not part with them, as it was the
hair of the person who lay in the luit. Thus I was led to believe that these peoj)lc dispose
of their dead in a manner similar to that of Otaheitc. Tho same custom of weariii" the hair
is observed by the people of that island, and also by the New Zealanders. The former make
Tamnii of the hair of their deceased friends, and the latter make ear-rings and necklaces of
their teeth.

Near most of their large houses were fixed upright in the ground the stems of four cocoa-
nut trees, in a square position, about three feet from each other. Some of our gentlemen,
who first saw them, were inclined to believe they were thus placed on a religious account ;
but I was now satisfied that it was for no other purpose but to hang cocoa-nuts on to dry.
For when I asked, as well as I could, tho use of them, a man took mo to one, loaded with
cocoa-nuts from the bottom to tho top ; and no words could have informid me better. Their
situation is well chosen for this use, as most of their large houses arc built in an open airy
place, or where the wind has a free passage, from whatever direction it blows. Near most,
if not all of them, is a largo tree or two, whose spreading branches afford an agreeable retreat
from the scorching sun. This part of the island was well cultivated, open, and airy ; the
plantations were laid out by line, abounding with plantains, sugar-canes, yams, and other
roots, and stocked with fruit-trees. In our walk we met with our old friend Paowang, who,
with some others, accompanied us to tho water-side, and brought with them, as a present, a
few yams and cocoa-nuts.

On tho 15th, having finished wooding and watering, a few hands only were on shore making
brooms, tho rest being employed on board, setting up tho rigging, and putting the ship in a
condition for sea. Mr. Forstcr, in his botanical excursion this day, shot a pigeon, in the
craw of which was a wild nutmeg. He took some pains to find the tree, but his endeavours
were without success. In the evening a party of us walked to the eastern sea-shore, in order
to take the hearing of Annatom, and Erronan or Foottoona. The liorizon proved so hazy
that I could see neither ; but one of the natives gave nie, as I afterwards found, the true
direction of them. "Wo observed that in all, or most of their sugar plantations, were dug
holes or pits, four feet deep, and five or six in diameter ; and on our inquiring their use, wo
were given to understand that they caught rats in them. These animals, which are very
destructive to tho canes, are here in great plenty. Tho canes, I observed, were planted as
thick as possible round tlie edge of these pits, so that the rats in coming at them arc the more
liable to tumble in.

.!'!■,

;:'i

( .

' t

\-y \,

r,n

(OOK'S SKCOXU VOYACJB llOr'NI) TIIK WOIUJ).

^'::Mc^;■:;■:^^a^,v'^";'^,. r< .r.

At <i. 1*71.

'...v.-s^^>-'v:.-

HATS AND THAI'.

Next morning we foiiiul the tiller sprung in tlio nuUlcr-head, ami, by some strange neglect,
we had not a spare one on board, wliicli we were ignorant of till now it was wanting. It
knew but of one tree in the neighbourhood fit for this purpose, which I sent the cari)enter
on shore to look at, and an officer, with a party of men, to cut it down, provided he could
obtain leave of the natives ; if not, he was ordered to acquaint me. He understood that no
one had any objection, and sot the people to work accordingly. But as the tree was large,
this required some time ; and before it was down, word was brought mo that our friend
Paowaug was not pleased. I'pon this I gave orders to desist, as we found that, by scarfing
a piece to the inner end of the tiller, and letting it farther into the rudder-head, it would
still jK'rform its office. I>nt as it was necessary to have a sjiare one on board, I went on shore,
sent for Paowang, made him a present of a dog and a piece of cloth, and then explained to
liim that our great steering paddle was broken, and that I wanted that tree to make a new
one. It was easy to see how well jileased every one present was with the means I took to
obtain it. With one voice thej* gave their consent, Paowang joining his also, which ho
perhaps could not have done without tlic others ; for I do not know that he had either more
projjcrty or more authority than the rest. This point being obtained, I took our friend on
board to dinner, and after it was over went with him on shore, to pay a visit to an old chief,
who was said to be kin'' of the island, which was a doubt with me. Paowfinfj took little or
no notice of him. I made him a present, after which he immediately went away, as if ho
had got all he came for. His name was Geogy, and they gave him the title of Arecke. Ho
was very old, but had a merry, ojjcn countenance. He wore round his waist a broad red
and white checkered belt, the materials and manufiicture of which seemed the same as that
of Otaheite cloth ; but this was hardly a mark of distinction. He had with him a son, not less
than furty-fi ve or fifty years of age. A great number of people were at this time at the landing-
place ; nu)st of them from distant parts. The behaviour of many was friendly, while others were
daring and insolent, which I thought proper to put up with, as our stay was nearly at an end.

On the 1 7th, about ten o'clock, I went ashore, and foimd in the crowd old Geogy and his
son, who soon mado me understand that they wanted to dine with me ; and .accordingly I
brought them and two more on board. They all called them Areekccs (or kings) ; but I
doubt if any of them had the hast pretensions to that title over the whole island. It had
been remarked that one of these kings had not authority enough to order one of the people
up into a cocoa-nut tree to bring him down some nuts. Although he spoke to several, he was
at last obliged to go himself, and by way of revenge, as it was thought, left not a nut on the

A» II. 1T71.

range neglect,
wanting. It
the carpi-ntcr
ided lie could
rstood til at no
•CO was largo,
liat our friend
,t, by scarfing
ead, it would
[vent on shore,
explained to
make a new
ana I took to
Iso, wliich ho
id either more
our friend on
an old chief,
took little or
way, as if ho
Areeke. Ho
a broad red
same as that
son, not less
the landing-
3 others were
•ly at an end.

tcogy

and his

ccordingly I

ngs); but I

Ivnd. It had

if the people

Iveral, he was

nut on the

Ai«. 1774.

COOK'S SKCONI) VOVACK UOl'ND TIIK M'OKIJ).

51A

tree, taking what ho wanted hinHolf, and giving the rest to some of our pcojde. "NV'icn I
got them on board, I went witli them all over the ship, which they viewed with une( ininoii
surprise and attention. We happened to have for tlieir entertainment a kind of i)ie or p\idding
made of ])lantains, and some sort of greens which we had got from one of the natives. On
this, and on yams, they made a hearty dinner ; for as to the salt hoef and pork, they would
hardly taste them. In the afternoon, having made eacli of th'-m a present of a hatchet, a
spike-nail, and some medals, I conducted them aslmre,

Mr, Forstcr and I then went over to tlie other side of t1;c harbour, and having tried, with
Fahrenheit's thermometer, the head of one of the hot springs, we found that tlu; mercury
rose to lOl". At this time the tide was np witliin two or tliree feet of the spring, so that
wo judged it might, in some degree, be cooled by it. We were mistaken, however ; for, on
repeating the experiment next morning, when the tide was o>it, the merciny rose no higher
than 1H7' ; but at another spring, where the water bubbled out of the sand from iintler the
rock at the S.W, corner of the harbour, the mercury, in the same thermometer, rose to
202i°, which is but little colder than boiling water. The hot places before mentioned aro
from about three to four himdrcd feet perpendicular above these springs, and on the slope of
the same ridge with the volcano ; that is, there are no valleys between them but such as aro
formed in the ridge itself; nor is the volcano on the highest part of tlie ridge, but on the
S.E. side of it. This is, I have been told, contrary to the general ojiinion of philosopliers,
who say that volcanoes must bo on the summits of the highest hills. So far is this from
being the case on this island, that some of its hills are more than double tlie height of that
on which the volcano is, and close to it. To these remarks I nuist add, that, in wet or moist
weather, the volcano was most violent. There seems to be room for some philosophical
reasoning on these phenomena of nature ; but not having any talent that way, I nuist content
myself with stating facts as I found them, and leave the causes to men of more abilities.

The tiller was now finished ; but as the wind was unfavourable for sailing, the guard was
sent on shore on the 19th, as before, and a party of men to cut up and bring off the remain-
der of the tree from which we had got the tiller. Having nothing else to do, I went on
shore with them, and finding a good number of the natives collected about the landing place
as usual, I distributed among them all the articles I had with me, and then went on board
for more. In le^s than an hour I returned, just as our people were getting some large logs
into the boat. At the same time four or five of the natives stepped forward to see what wo
were about, and as we did not allow them to come within certain limits, unl jsci to pass along
the beach, the sentry ordered them back, which they readily complied with. At tliis time,
having my eyes fixed on them, I observed the sentry ])rcsent his ]>ieco (as I ihought at these
men), and was just going to reprove him for it, because I had observed that, whenever this
was done, some of the natives would hold uj) their arms, to let us see they were equally ready.
But I was astonished beyond measure when the sentry fired, for I saw not the least cause.
At this outrage moi,t of tlie people fled : it was only a few I could prevail on to remain. As
they ran off, I observed one man to fall ; and he was immediately lifted up by two others,
who took him into the water, washed his wound, and then led him off. Presently after,
some came and described to mc the nature of his wound ; and, as I found he was not carried
far, I sent for the surgeon. As soon as he arrived, I went with him to the man, whom wo
found expiring. The ball had struck his l(>ft arm, which was much shattered, and then
entered his body by the short ribs, one of which was broken. The rascal who fired pretended
that a man had laid an arrow across his bow, and was going to shoot at him, so that ho
apprehended himself in danger. But this was no more than they had always done, and
with no other view than to show they were armed as well as we ; at least I have reason to
think so, .is they never went farther. What made this incident the more unfortunate, was,
it not .appearing to be the man who bent the bow that was shot, but one who stood by him.
This aftair threw the natives into the utmost constern.ation ; and the few that were prevailed
on to stay ran to the plantations and brought cocoa-nuts, &c, which they laid down at our feet.
So soon were these d.aring people humbled ! When I went on board to dinner they all retired,
and only a few appeared in the .afternoon, amongst whom were P.aowang and Wha-a-gou. I
had not seen this young man since the day he dined on board. Both he .and Paowang pro-
mised to bring me fruit, &c. the next morning, but our early departure put it out of their power.

LL 2

'\ \:\

\ I

I 1

I ill

ird

(;^-!

In !,.

610

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

Ai'o. 1774.

Ill

' iJ

CHAPTER VI. — DEPARTCBE FROM TANNA ; WITH SOME ACCOrXT OF ITS INnABITAXTS,

THEIR .-^ ANNERS, AND ARTS.

DrRiNG the night the wiml had veered round to S.E. As this Avas favourable for getting
out of the harbour, at four o'clock in the morning of the 20th we began to unmoor, and at
eight, having weighed our last anchor, put to sea. As soon as we were clear of the land, I
brought to, waiting for the launch which was left behind to take up a kedgc-anchor and
hawser we had out, to cast by. About day- break a noise was heard in the woods, "^arly
abreast of us, on the east side of tlic harbour, not unlike siriging of psalms. I was told that
the like had been heard at the same time every morning, but it no\er came to my knowledge
till now, when it was too late to learn the occasion of it. Some were of opinion, that at the
cast point of the harbour (where wc observed, in coming in, some houses, boats, &c.) was
somotliing sacred to religion, because some of our peo])le had attempted to go to this point,
and were prevented by the natives. I tliought, and do still think, it was only owing to a
desire they showed, on every occasion, of fixing bounds to our excursions. So far as we liad
once been, we might go again, but not farther with their consent ; but by encroaching a little
every time, our country expeditions were insensibly extended without giving the least umbrage.
Besides, these morning ceremonies, whether religious or not, were not performed down at that
point, but in a part where some of our people had been daily.

I cannot say what might bo the true cause of these people showing such dislike to our
going up into their country : it might be owing to a naturally jealous dis])osition, or perhaps
to their being accustomed to hostile visits from their neighbours, or quarrels among them-
selves. Circumstances seemed to show that such must frequently liapi)en ; for we ol>;;erved
them very expert in arms, and well accustomed to them, seldom or never travelling without
them. It is jiossiblo all this might be on our account, but I liardiy think it. Wo never
gave them the least molestation, nor did we touch any part of their property, not even the
wood and water, without first having obtained their consent. The very cocoa-nuts, banging
over the heads of the workmen, were as safe as those in ilie middle of the island. It haj)-
prned, rather fortunately, that there were so many cocoa-nut trc.s near the skirts of the
harbour, which seemed not to be private property ; so that we cc-ild generally prevail on
the natives to bring us some of these nuts, when nothing would induce them to brln<>- anv
out of the country.

We were not wholly without refreshments ; for besides the fish, which our seine now and
then provided us with, we procured daily some fruits or roots from the natives, though
but little in proportion to what we could consume. Tlie reason why we got ;io inove might
bo our having nothing to give them in cxeliauge which they thought valuablr', T!icy had
not the least knowledge of iron ; consequently, nails and iron tools, beads. Sec, w'.ilel: h'td so
great a run at the more eastern isles, were of no consideration here ; and cloth can be of no
use to people who go naked.

The produce of this island is bread fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, a fruit like a nectarine,
yams, terra, a sort of pntntoe, sugar-cane, wild figs, a fruit like an orange, which in nr;.t eat-
able, and some other fruit and nuts wliose names I have not. Nor have I any doul)L that
the nutmeg before mentioned was the produce of this island. The bread-fruit, cocoa-nuk,
and plantains : are neither so plentiful nor so good as at Otaheite ; on the other hand, sugar-
canes and yams are not only in greater plenty, but of superior quality, and much larger. We
got one of the latter which weigheil fifty -six pounds, every ounce of which was good. Hogs
did not seem to be scarce, but we saw not many Towls : these are the only donu-stic animals
they have. Land-birds are not more numerous than at Otaheite and the other islaiKU ; iiut
we met with some small birds, with a very be:,, itiful i)luniage, vviiich wc liad never seen
before. There is as great a variety of trees and plants liere a.* at any island we touched at,
wh.fe our botanists liad time to examine. I believe theso jK'iiple live chiefly on tiie produce
of the land, and that the sea contributes but little to their .^d sistence. AViiethcr this arises
from tho coast not abounding with fish, or from their being bad fishermen, I know not; hotl;

Ar<i. 1774.

;nABITANTS,

iblc for getting
ninoor, and at

of the land, I
ilcc-anclior and
; woods, "-arly
I wns t()!d that

my knowledge
ion, that at tlic
Doats, &c.) was
;0 to this po'nt,
»nly owing to a
t) far as we liad
reaching a littlo
^ least umbrage.
;d down at that

h dislike to our
tion, or perhaps
Is among theni-
for we ol>;;erved
ivelling without

it. ^Vc never
y, not oven the
la-nuts, hanging
tland. It lia])-
e skirts of tlic
rally prevail on

m to bring any

seine now and
la lives, though

;;o iiiove might
T!,cy had

, w'.rici; Iral so
th can be of no

ki' a nectar'i'i',
liicli is n'^/C eat-
any doubi, that
lit, cocoa-nui:,
er hand, sugar-
eh larger. Wi'
IS 2"iod. IIo";3
)nw,'stic animals
■r islaiuU ; liut
lad ncviT scon
wo touched at,
on thi' produce
thcr this arises
Liiow not ; botl'.

tmm^

•r-m

Aug. 1774.

COOK'S SKCOND VOYAGl-: ROUND THE WOULD.

r>i7

causes perhaps concur. I never saw any sort of lishing-tacklo amongst them, nor any one
out fishing, except on tiio shoals, or along the shores of the harbour, where they would watch
to strike with a dart such fish as came within their reach ; and in this they were expert. Tln-y
seemcl nmch to admire our catching fish with the seine, and, I believe, were not well pleased
with it n,t last. I doubt not they have other methods of catching fish besides striking them.

Wc understood that the little isle of luimer was chieily inhabited by fishermen, and that
the canoes wc frcpiently saw pass, to and from that isle and the east point of the harbour,
were fishing-canoes. These canoes were of unequal sizes, some thirty feet long, two broad,
and three deep; and they are comj'oscd of several ]iieces of wood cltunsily si'wed together
with bandages. The joints are covered on the outside by a thin batten chamj)liere(l oil" at
the edges, over which the bandages pass. Tiu'y are navigated either by paddles or sails : tiio
sail is latteen, extended to a yard and boom, and hoisted to a short mast. Some of tiie lan'o
canoes have two sails, and all of them outriggers.

At first we thought the iicople of this island, as well as those of Erromango, were a race
between the natives of the i'Viendly Islands and those of MallicoUo ; but a little accpiaintanco
with them convinced us that they had little or no atfinity to either, exc(i)t it be in their hair,
which is much like what the people of tin; latter island have. The general colours of it aro
black and brown, growing to a toleral lo Ii.'ngth, and very crisp and curly. Tluy sejiarate it
into small locks, which they woold or cue round with the rind of a slender jilaiit, down to
about an inch of the ends ; and, as the hair grows, the W(joliling is continued. Ivicli of these
cues or locks is somewhat thicker than common whii)cord, and they look like a jiarcel of
small strings hanging down from the crown of their heads. Their beards, whiclj are strong
and bushy, are generally short. The women do not wear their hair so, but croj^jied ; nor
do the boys, till they ai>proacli manhood. Some few men, women, and children were -een
who had hair like ours ; but it was obvious tiiat these were of another nation ; and I think
we understood they came from lu'ronan. It is to this island they ascribe one of the two
languages which they speak, and whicii is nearly, if not exactly, the same as that spoken at
the Friendly Isles. It is, therefore, more than probable that Erronan was peopled from that
nation, and that, by long intercourse with Tanna and the other neighbouring islands, each
hath learnt the other's language, which they use indiscriminately. The other language which
the ])eople of Tanna speak, and, as wo lunlerstood, those of Erromango and Aiinattom, is
properly their own. It is dilferent from any we had befoiv met with, ami bears no alliuity
to that of Mallicollo ; so that, it should seem, the people t)f these islands are a distinct nation
of themselves, JMallieollo, Apec, &c., were names entirely unknown to them ; they even
knew nothing of Sandwich Island, which is much the nearer. I took no small pains to know
how far their geographical knowledge extended, and did not find that it exceeded tiio limits
of their horizon.

These people are of the middle size, rather slender tlian otherwise ; many are little, but
few tall or stout ; the uu(^.i of them have good features, and agreeable couuteuaiices ; aro
like all the tropical race, active and nimble ; and seem to excel in the v.se of arms, but not
to be fond of labour. They never wouM i)ut a hand to assist in any work we were carrying
on, which the people of t''0 other islands used to dcligiit in. But what I judge most from,
is their making the females do the most laborious work, as if they were pack-horses. 1 havo
icen a woman ear;'} ing a large bundle on her back, or a child on her back and a bundle
H'ller her arm, and a fellow strutting before her with nothing but a club or si)ear, or some
such thing. We have frequently observed little troops of women pass, to and fro, along the
beach, laden with fruit and roots, escorted by a party of men under arms ; though, now and
then, we have seiai a man carry a burden at the same time, but not often. I know not uii
what account this was done, iior that an armed troop was necessary. At first, we thouglit
thev were movinfr out of the neirdibourhood with their etfects : but we afterwards saw them
both carry out and bring in every day.

I cannot say the women arc beauties ; but I think them handsome enough for the men,
and too handsome for the use that is made of them. Iloth sexes are of a very dark colour,
but pot black ; iu)r have they the least characteristic of the negro about them. They make
themselves blacker tiian they really are, by painting their faces with a pigment of the colour

!: ■:

V li'.

618

COOK'S SECniVD VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

A 10. 1774.

I w

\-]' %\

of black load. They also iso another sort which is red, and a third sort brown, or a colour
between reJ and black. All these, but especially tlic first, they lay on, with a liberal hand,
not only on thr face, but on the neck, shoulders, and breast. The men wear nothing but a
belt, and the wrapi>ing leaf as at ^Mallicollo *. Tlic women have a kind of petticoat made
of the filaments of the plantain-tree, flags, or some such thing, which reaches below the knee.
Both sexes v/ear ornaments, such as bracelets, cur-rings, necklaces, and amulets. Tho
bracelets arc chiefly worn by the men ; some made of sea-shells, and others of those of the
cocoa-nut. T!ic men also wear amulets ; and those of most value being made of a greenish
stone, the green stone of New Zealand is valued by them for this purpose. Necklaces are
chiefly used by the women, and made mostly of shells. Ear-rings are common to both
sexes, and those valued most are made of tortoise-shell. Some of our jieoplc having got some
at the Friendly Islands, brought it to a good market here, wiierc it was of more value than
anything wc liad besides ; from which I conclndo that these people catch but few turtle,
though I saw one in the harbour, just as we were getting under sail. I observed that,
towards the latter end of our stay, they began to ask for hatchets, and large nails ; so that
it is likely they had foimd that iron is more serviceable than stone or shells, of which
all their tools I have seen are made. Their stone hatchets, at least ali

those I saw, are not in the shape of adzes, as at the oth^r islands, '"7" ~^

but more like an axe, in the form conjoined. In tlie helve, which is J \
pretty thick, is made a hole into which the stone is fixed.

These people, besides the cultivation of ground, have few other arts worth mentioning.
Tiiey know how to make a coarse kind of matting, and a coarse cloth of the bark of a tree,
which is used chiefly for belts. The workmanship of their canoes, I have before observed,
is very rude ; and tlieir arms, with which they take the most pains in point of neatness, come
far short of some others we had seen. Their weapons are clubs, spears, or darts, bows and
arrows, and stones. Tho clubs are of three or four kinds, and from three to five feet long.
Tliey seem to place most dependence on the darts, which arc pointed with three bearded
edges. In throwing them they make use of a becket, that is, a piece of stiff plaited cord
about six inches long, with an eye in one end and a knot at the other. The eye is fixed on
the fore-fingor of the right hand, and the ot' r end is hitched round the dart, where it is
nearly on an equii)oise. They hold the dart between the thumb and remaining fingers,
■which nerve only to give it direction, tho veh.city being communicated by the becket and
fore-finger. The former flies off from the dart tlie instant its velocity becomes greater than
that of the hand, but it remains on the finger ready to be used again. With darts they kill
both birds and fish, and are sure of iiitting a mark, within the compass of the crown of a
hat, at the distanc;' of eight or ten yai'ds : but, at double that distance, it is chance if they
hit a mark tlie size of a man's body, though they will throw the weapon sixty or seventy
yards. They alwaj'S throw with all tlair might, let the distance be what it will. Darts,
bows and arrows, are to them wiiat muskets are to us. The arrows are made of reeds pointed
with hard wood : some are bearded and some not, and those for sliooting birds have two,
three, and sometimes four points. Tlio stones they use are, in general, the branches of coral
rocks from c'ght to fourteen inches long, and from an inch to an inch and a lialf in diameter.
I know not if tliey emj)loy them as missive weapons ; almost every one of them carries a
club, and besides that, either darts, or a bow and arrows, but never both : those wlio had
stones kept them generally in their belts.

I cannot conclude this account of their arms without adding an entire passage out of Mr.
Wales's journal. As this gentleman was continually on shore amongst them, he had a better
opportunity of seeing Avhat they could perform than any of us. Tlie passage is as follows :
" I must confess I have been often led to think tiic feats which Homer represents his lieroes
as performing with tlieir spears a little too nuich of the marvellous to be admitted into an
lieroic poem ; I mean when confined witliin the strait stays of Aristotle. Nay, even so
great an advocate for him as JMr. Pope acknowledges them to be surpriDUit/. But since I
have seen what these peojile c; n do witli their wooden spears, and those badly pointed, and
not of a very hard nature, I have not the least exception

iiny onu passage in that gicut

Sec uoto p. 499.

. I

A 10. ITT'l.

1, or a colour
liberal hand,
[lotliiiig but a
ctticoat made
low the knee,
iiulcts. The
t those of the
of a greenish
N^ecklaccs are
nioii to both
king got some
lie value than
lit few turtle,
)bsprvcd that,
nails ; so that
'lis, of wliich

li mcntioninj;.

)ark of a tree,

fore observed,

leatness, come

rts, bows and

Sve feet longf.

three bearded

F plaited cord

!ye is fixed on

ft, where it is

lining fingery,

le becket and

i greater than

ts they kill

crown of a

lance if they

ty or seventy

ill. Dartii,

'ods pointed

s liave two,

;hes of coral

in diameter.

lem carries a

lose who had

c out of IMr.
had a better
as follows :
Ds his heroes
itted into an
ay, even so
But since I
pointed, and
u that great

■r-T*w

Aio. 1774.

COOK'S Sfc;COXD V'OVAGK HOUND THE WORLD.

.-)1!)

poet on this account. JJtit, if I see fewer exceptions, T can find infinitely more beauties in
him ; as he has, 1 think, seaire an action, circumstance, or description of any kind wliatever,
relating to a spear, wliich I have not seen and recognised among these people ; as their
whirling motion, and whi.stling noise, as they ily ; tlicir quivering motion, as tliey stick in
tlie ground wlien they fall ; their meditating tiieir aim, wlirn tiiey are going to tiirow ; and
their shakin" them in their liand as thev tin alonfj, &c. \c."

I know no more of their cookery, tlian that it consists of roasting and baking ; for they
have no vessel in wliich water can be boiled. Mor do I know tliat they have any otlier
li(luor but water and tlio juice of the cocoa-nut. We are utter strangers to tlicir religion,
and but little acquainted with tlieir government. Tliey seem to huve chiefs among them j
at least some were pointed out to us by tiiat titli' ; but, as I ijefore observed, tliey appeared
to have very little authority over the rest of the jieople. Old (ieogy was the only one the
peo])lo were ever seen to take the least notice of; but whether this was owing to liigh rank
or old age I cannot say. On several occasions I have seen the old men respected and obeyed.
Our friend Paowang was so ; and yet I never heard him called chief, ami have many reasons
to believe that he had not a right to any more authority than many of his neighbours, and
few, if any, were bound to obey him, or ariy other person in our neighbourliood ; for if there
liail been such a one, we certainly should, by some means, have known it. I nauu d the
harbour Port Resolution, after the sliiji, she being the first which ever entered it. It is
situated on the north side of the most eastern point of the island, and about J''...\.E. from the
volcano; in the latitude of 19" ;12' 2.V' }> South, and in the longitude of Hi!) 44' :V>" Kast.
It is no more than a little creek running in S. by W. [ W. three quarters of a mile, and is
about half that in bi'cadth. A shoal of saml ami rocks lying on the east side makes it still
narrower. The dei)th of water in the harbour is from six to three fathoms, and the bottom
is s.and and iuud. No place can be more convenient for taking in v.ctod and wat(;r ; for both
are close to the shore. The water stunk a little after it had been a few days on board, but
it afterwards turned sweet ; and, even when it was at the worst, the tin machine would, in
a few iioiu's, recover a whole cask. This is an excellent contrivance for sweetening water
at sea, and is well known in the navy.

Mr. Wales, from whom I had the latitude and longitude, found the variati(ju of the needle
to be 7' li' 1-' East, and tiie di)) of its south end 4.'>'2'/. He also observed the time ot
high water, on the full and change days, to be about "di. 15m., and the tide to rise and fall
three feet.

CnAPTKU VII.-

-TJiK ST nvr.Y OF rnE islands continuf.d, and a more rA!iTicii.An

nKSCniPTION >F TIIE.M.

As soon as tlie boats were noisted in, we m. de sail, and stretched to the eastward, with
a fresh gale at S.E., in order lo have a nearer .iew of Ernjiian, and to see if there was any
land in its neighbourhood. Wc stood on till miduiglit, when, having i>nssed the island, we
tacked, and .s])ent the rmiaindt'r of the night making two boards. ^U snniise on tlii^ 21st,
we stood to S.W. in order to get to the s mlh of Tanna, and neorer to Anattom, to observe if
any more land lay in that directi.,".! ; f.ir an extraordinary char morning had jiroduced no
discovery of any to the east. At noon having observed in latitude 20" ',V,\ 150", the siliiatitui
of the lands around us was as follows. Port Kes(dntlon iiore {'(I" West, distant six and a
half leagues ; tlie island of Tamia extended from S. ',Mi' West., to X. (i4' We.-t ; Traitor'.s
Head N. oH" West, di-tant twenty leagues; the island of I'.rroiiaii X. {!(i' East, distant iivo
leagues; and Anattom from S. h E. to S. ', W., distant ten lengues. AVe continued to
stretch to the south till two o'clock P.M. when, seeing "o more land before us, we bore up
round the S.E. end of Tanna; and, with a fine gale at E.S.E.. van along tlie south co.-ist at
one league from shore. It seemed a bold < ne, witlumt the guard of any rocks ; and the
country full as fertile as in the neiLddiourliood of the h.irbour, and makini; a fine appi'.irance;
At six o'clock the high land of Erromangoaj>peared over the west end of Tanna in t!ie direc-
tion of N. ]♦>" West; at eight o'clock we were past the island, and steered .N.N.W. for

, \

620

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Ai.r«. 1774.

Jii ifi!

mm.

Sandwich Island, in order to finish tlic survey * of it, and of the isles to the N.W. On the
22nd, at four o'clock p.m., wc drew near the 8.E. end, and ranging the south coast, found
it to trend in tlio direction of W. and W.N.W. for about nini) leagues. Near tljc middle
of this length, and close to the shore, arc three or four small isleji, behind which seemed to
l)c s, safe anchorage. But not thinking I had any time to spare to visit this fine island, I
continued to range the coast to its western (xtremity, and then steered X.N.W. for the S.E.
end of I\Iallicollo, ■which, at half past six o'clock next morning, bore N. 14' East, distant
seven or eight leagues, and Three-IIilla Island S. 82' East. Soon after, wc saw the islands
Apee, Paooni, and Ambrym. What we had compreiiended under the name of I'aoom
appeared now to be two isles, something like a se]>aration being seen between the hill and
the land to the AVest of it. AVo approached the S.W. side of iMallieollo to within half a
league, and ranged it at that distance. From the S.E. point, the direction of the land is
■west, a little southerly, for six or seven leagues, and tlien N.W. by W. three leagues, to a
pretty high point or head-land, situated in latitude 16" 29', and which obtained the name of
South- West Cape. The coast, which is low, seemed to be indented into creeks and pro-
jecting points ; or else, these points were small isles lying under the shore. AVc were sure
of one, which lies between two and three leagues enst of the C'ajie. Close to the west side
or point of the Cape lies, connected with it by breakers, a round rock or islet, which helps
to shelter a fine bay, formed by an elbow in the coast, from the reigning winds.

Tlie natives appeared in troops on many parts of the shore, and some seemed desirous to
come off" to us in canoes ; but they did not : and, probably, our not shortening sail was
the reason. From the South- West Cape, the direction of the coast is N. by W., but the
most advanced land boro.from it N.W, by X. at which the land seemed to terminate.
Continuing to follow the direction of the coast, at noon it was two miles from us ; and our
latitude, by observation, was 10" 22' 30 " South. This is nearly the parallel to Port Sandwich,
and our never-failing guide, the watch, showed tliat we were 2(»'^W. of it ; a distance wliieii
the breadth of jMallicollo cannot exceed in this parallel. Tlic South- West Cape bore S. 2(5°
East, distant seven miles ; and the most advanced point of land, for whicli we steered, bore
N.Ar. by N. At three o'clock wc were the length of it, and found the land continued, and
trending more and more to the north. AVc coasted it to its northern extremity, wiiich ■we
did not reacli till after dark, at which time wo were near enough the shore to hear the voices
of ]ieo])lc, who were assembled round a fire they had made on tlie beach. There wc sounded,
and found twenty fatlioms and a bottom of sand ; but, on edging off from the shore, we
soon got out of sounding, and then made a trip back to the south till the moon got uj).
After this we stood again to the north, hauled round the point, and spent the night in
Bougainville's jiassage ; being assured of our situation before sunset, by seeing the land, on
the north side of the passage, extending af^ far as N.AV. ,'. AV. The uoutli coast of iMalli-
eollo, from the S.E. end to the S.AV. Capo, is luxuriantly clothed witii wood, and other
jjroductions of nature, from tiic sea-shore to the very summits of the hills. To the N.AV^.
of the Cape the coiuitry is less woody, but more agreeably interspersed with lawns, some of
whidi appeared to be cultivated. The summits of the hills seemed barre^i ; and the highest
lies between Port Sandwich and the S.AV. Cape. Farther north, the land falls insensibly
lower, and is less covered witti wood. 1 believe it is a very fertile island, and well inhabited ;
for we saw smoke by day, and fire by night, in all parts of it.

Next morning at siinrise, we found ourselves nearly in the middle of the passage, tlie
N.AV. end of Aiallicollo extending Trom S. :iO' East, to S. CiW West; the land to the north
from N. 70' AVest, to N. 4 E.ist ; and the Isle of Lepers bearing N, 30° East, distant
eleven or twelve leagues. AVc now made .sail, and steered N. by E., and afterwards north,
aUoig the east eoast of the nortliern l:md, with a fine breeze at S.E, AVc found that this
coast, which at first appeared to be continued, wa« composed of several low woody isle.s, the
most of them of small extent, except the southernmost, which, on account of the day. 1
named St. Bartholomew, It is six or seven leagues in circuit, and makes the N.E. point of

• Tin; wold Siuvi'y is not lioio tu lie uniici«too<l ia its lia c ils triii' ailiialioi), wliiih cuiiiKit be ilouc ui a woil;
litti.il cciii-c. Siuveyiiig ;i piiice, a'."C(H(liiig to my Moa, is of Uu6 n!ituic.
fiiking ii ({conictrical plan of it, in wliicK twry place is to

Aug. 1774.

^V. On tlic

coast, found
r tlic middle
ill seemed to
ine island, I

for the S.E.
lilast, distant
,v the islands
lO of I'aooni

the hill and
kitliiu half a

the land is
leagues, to iv
. the name of
eks and pro-
■"o were sure
he west side

which helps

d desirous to

ling s<ail was

W., but the

o terminate.

us ; and our

rt Sandwich,

stance which

i bore S. 20°

steered, boro

ntinued, and

y, which wo

ar the voices

wc sounded,

e shore, avo

noon got uj).

the night in

the land, on

St of Jialli-

1, and other

o the N.W.

,ns, some of

the highest

s insensibly

inhabited ;

assage, the
the north
ast, distant
ard>! norlii,
id that this
isles, the
tlie day, 1
ptiint of

1110 ill a woiU

■ra il iim

tBHt^SBSSOS^ ■

A to. 1774.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

r>2i

Bougainville's Passage. At noon the breeze began to slacken. Wc were at this time
between two and three miles from the land, and observed, in latitude If) ' 2lV, the Isle of
Lepers bearing from E. by N. to E. by S., distant seven leagues ; and a high blutt-head, at
which the coast we were upon seemed to terminate, N.N.W. ', AV., distant ten or eleven
leagues ; but from the mast-head we coidd see land to the cast. This we judged to be an
island, and it bore N. by W. h W.

As we advanced to N.N.W. along a fine coast covered with woods, wc perceived low
land that extended off from the bluff-head towards the island above m(>ntioiied, but did not
seem to join it. It was my intention to have gone through the channel, but the ajiproaeh
of night made me lay it aside, and steer without the island. During the afternoon wo
passed some small isles lying under the s^hore, and observed some projecting points of
unequal height, but were not able to determine whether or not they were connected with
the main lan<l. Uehind them was a ridge of hills which terminated at the bluff-head.
There were clitFs, in some places of the coast, and white patches, which we judged to be
chalk. At ten o'clock, being the length of the isle which lies olf the head, we shortened
sail, and spent the night making short boards. At dajbreak on the 2.")th, sve were on the
north side of the island (which is of a moderate height, and three leagues in circuit), and
steered west for the bluff-head along the low land under it. At sunrise an elevated coast
came in sight beyond the bluff-head, extending to the north as far as N.W. by W. After
doubling the head we found the land to trend south, a little easterly, and to form a large,
deep bay, bounded on the west by the coast just mentioned.

Everything conspired to make us believe this was the bay of St. Philip and St. Jago,
discovered by Quiros in KiOlJ. To determine this jioint it was necessary to proceed farther
up ; for at this time we saw no end- to it. The wind being at south, we were obliged to
I)ly, and first stretched over for the west shore, from which we were three miles at noon,
wiien our latitude was 14' i)0 .'?0" south, longitude ](!7" 3' east; the mouth of the bay
extending from N. 64^ west to S. IW)^ east, which last direction was the bluff-head, Jistaut
three leagues. In the afternoon, the wind veering to the IvS.E., we could look uj) to the
head of the bay; but as the breeze was faint, a N.E. swell hurled us over to th(! west shore ;
so that at half-past four o'clock p.m. we were no more than two miles from it, and tacked
in one hundred and twenty fathoms water, a soft n\uddy bottom. The bluff'-head, or east
point of the bay, bore N. 53 ' east.

We had no sooner tacked than it fell calm, and we were left to the mercy of the swell,
which continued to hurtle us towards the shore, where large troops of people were assembUd.
Some ventured off in two canoes ; but all the signs of friendship we could make did not
induce them to come alongside, or near enough to receive any ]>rcsent from us. At last
they took sudden fright at sumethiug, and rctuncd ashore. T'hey were naked, except
having some long grass, like flags, fasteneil to a belt, and hanging dow n before and behind,
nearly as low '^s the knee. Their colour was very dark, and their liair woolly ; or cut short,
whicii made it seem so. The canoes were small, and had out-rirriiers. The calm continued
till near eight o'clock, in which time we drove into eighty-five fathoms water, and so near
the shore that I expected wo should be obliged to anchor. A breeze of wind sjirung up at
E.S.E., and first took us on the wrong side ; but, contraiy to all our exju'ctations, and \vhen
wc had hardly room to veer, the ship came alwjut, and lia\Ing iilicd on the larboard tack, we
stood oil' N.i;. Thus we wore relieved from the ap])rehensions of being forced to anchor in
a groat depth, on a lee shore, and in a dark and obscure night.

We continued to \)\y ujiwards, with vnrialile light brec/es lietween J). S.E. artd S., till ten
ne.\t morning, when it fell calm. We wen, at this time, about seven or eight miles from
the head of the bay, wlilcli ).* Iiiiiiinated by a low beach; and behind that is an extensive
flat covered with wood, and bounded on riii.li side by a ridge of mountains. ,i\t noon wc-
found the latitude to he IT) .0' south, and were detained here l)y the calm till one o'clock
r.M., when we got a breeze at N. by W., with which we steered iij) to within two mik'>< of
the head of (ho Imy ; iiiid then I sent Mr. Cuiipir and Mr. (iilhert to sound and reconuditre
the coast, while We stood to and fro with the ship. This gave tinu> to three sailing canoes,
whicli liiid hii n following us some time, to come up. There were live or six men in each ;

■nil

l;'l

I \'

'il: I.

')'

I ' ..;

S hi

f.22

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE M''»IU,D.

Aio, 1774.

and they approaclied near cnbugli to receive such tilings as were thrown to tlieni fastened to
a rope, hut would not advance alongside, Tliey were the same sort of ])eopIe as those wo
had seen the preceding evening; indeed we thought they came from the same i)Iacc. They
seemed to he stonter and hetter shaped men than those of IMallicolio ; and several circum-
stances concurred to make us think they were of another nation. They named the numerals
as far as five or six, in the language of Anamocka, and nnderstood us when we asked the
names of the adjacent lands in that language. Some, indeed, had black short frizzled hair,
like the natives of Mallicollo ; but others had it long, tied np on the crown of the head, and
ornamented with feathers, like the New Zealanders. Their other ornaments were bracelets
and necklaces ; one man had simiething like a white shell on his forehead ; and some were
painted with a blackish pigment. I did not see that they had any other weapon but darts
and gigs, intended only for striking of fish. Their canoes were much like those of Tanna,
and navigated in the same manner, or nearly so. They readily gave us the names of such
parts as we pointed to : but we could not obtain from them the name of the island. At
length, seeing our boats coming, they paddled in for the shore, notwithstanding all we could
say or do to detain them.

When the boats returned, Mr. Cooper informed nic, that they had landed on the beach
which is at the head of the bay, near a fine river, or stream of fresh water, so large and
deep, that they judged boats might enter it at high water. They found three fathoms
depth close to the beach, and fifty-five and fifty, two cables' length off. Farther out they
did not sound ; and where we were with the ship, we had no soundings with a hundred
and seventy fathoms line. Before the boats got on board, the wind had shifted to S.S.E.
As we were in want of nothing, and had no time to spare, I took the advantage of this
shift of wind, and steered down the bay. During the fore-part of the night, the country
was illuminated with fires, from the sea-shore to the summits of the mountains ; but this
was only on the west side of the shore. I cannot pretend to say what was the occasion of
these fires, but have no idea of their being on our account. Probably they were burning
or clearing the ground for new plantations. At daybreak on the 27th, we found ourselves
two-thirds down the bay j and, as we had but little win<l, it was noon before we were the
length of the X.W. ])oint, which at this time bore N. (i2^ west, distant five miles. Latitude
observed, 14" 39' 30".

Some of our gentlemen were doubtful of this being tl.e bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, as
there was no place which they thought could mean the port of Vera Cruz. For my j)art,
I found general points to agree so well with Quiros's deb'niption, that I had not the least
doubt about it. As to what he calls the port of Vera Cvuz, I understand that to be the
anchorage at the head of the bay, which in some places may extend farther off than where
our boats landed. There is nothing in his account of the port which contradicts this suppo-
sition*. It was but natural for his people to give a name to the place, independent of so
largo a bay, where they lay so long at anchor. A port is a vague term, like many others
in geography, and has been very often api)lied to places far less sheltered than this. Our
officers observed that grass and other plants grew on the beach close to higli-water mark ;
which is always a sure sign of pacific anchorage, and an undeniable proof that there never
is a great surf on the shore. Tiiey judged that the tide rose about four or five feet, and
that boats and such craft miglit, at high water, enter the river, which seemed to be pretty
deep and broad within ; so that this, probably, is one of those mentioned by Quiros ; and,
if we were not deceived, we saw the other.

The bay hath twenty leagues sea-coast ; six on the east side, which lies in the direction
of S. -h west, and N. I east; two at the head, and twelve on the west side, the direction of
which is S. by E. and N. by W. from the head down to two-thirds of its length, and then
N.W. by N. to the N.AV. point. The two points which form the entrance lie in tho
direction of S. TkP east, and N. 53" west, from each other distant ten leagues. The bay
is everywhere free from danger, and of unfathomaljhj depth, except near tli'; shores, which
are for tho most part low. This, however, is only a very narrow strip between the sea-
shore and the foot of the hills; for the bay, as well as the Hat land at the head of it, is

* Scf Qiiirns's Voviigc, in Diiln iiiplo"s CuIlccUnii, vol. i. p. I'M, 137.

mm^w

Aid. 1774.

11 fastened to
; .as tlioso wo
)laec. Tlicy
renil circiiin-
tliu nunierals
ivo asked tlio
frizzled liair,
Iiu head, and
ere bracelets
id some were
ion but dartd
ise of Tanna,
anics of such
I island. At
all we could

in the beach
so large and
ireo fathoms
her out tliey
ih a hundred
ed to S.S.E.
ntajjo of this
, the country
ins ; but this
! occasion of
vere burning
md ourselves
we were the
s. Latitude

St. Jago, as

or my i)art,

ot the least

vt to be the

than where

this suppo-

dent of so

nany others

this. Our

ater mark ;

there never

ve feet, and

be pretty

liros ; and,

le direction
lirection of
I, and then
lie in the
Tiie bay
)res, which
n the sea-
tad of it, is

Auo. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE M'ORLD.

bounded on each side by a ridge of hills, one of which, that to the west, is very hi^li, and
double, extending tiie whole length of the island. An uncduimonly luxuriant vrgctation
was everywhere to bo seen ; tlie sides of the hills were checkered with i)laiitations, and
every valley watered by a stream. Of all the productions of nature? this country was
adorned with, the cocoa-nut trees were the most conspicuous. The colnnins of smoke wo
saw by day, and the firi'S by niglit, all over the country, led ns to lielieve that it is well
inhabited and very fertile. The east jioint of this bay, which 1 name Cape Quims, in
memory of its first discoverer, is situated in latitude 14" oG' south, l nuitude KiT" 1>V east.
The N.AY. point, wliicli I named Ca])e Cumberland, in honour of his Itoyal Highness, the
Duke, lies in the latitude of 14" ?Ai' 45" south, longitude l(i(i" 4l»V east, and is the N.^NV.
extremity of this archipelago ; for, after doubling it, we found the coast to trend gradually
round to the S. and S.S.E.

On the 2{Jth and 2l)th wc had light airs and calms, so that we advanced but little. In
tins time we took every opportunity, when tlie horizon was clearer than usual, to look out
for more land; but none was seen. By Quiros's track to the north, after leaving the bay
above mentitined, it seems probable that there is none nearer than (^ueeii Chiirlotte's Island,
discovered by Captain Carteret, which lies about ninety leagues X.N.W. from Cape Cum-
berland, and I take to be the same with Quiros's .I'anta Cruz. On the IlOth the calm was
succeeded by a fresh breeze at S.S.E., wliich enabled us to ply U]) the coast. At noon wo
observed in 15" 20' ; afterwards we stretched in east, to within a mile of the shore, and then
tacked, in seventy-five fathoms, before a sandy flat, on which several of the natives made
their appearance. We observed, on the sides of the hills, several plantations that were laid
out by line, and fenced round. On the 31st, at noon, the S. or S.AV. jioint of the island
bore N. 02° east, distant four leagues.- This forms the N'.W. point of what I call Bougain-
ville's Passage; the N.E. point, .at this time, bore N. 85 c.a.it, and the N.W. end of ..Molli-
collo from S. 54° cast to S. 7*^° *^'ist. Latitude observed, 15" 45' S. In the afternoon, in
stretching to the east, we we.atliered the S.W. point of the island, from which the coast
trends east northerly. It is low, and seemed to form some creeks or coves ; and, as we got
farther into the p.ass.agc, we perceived some small low isles lying along it, which seemed to

extend behind St. Bartholomew Isl.and.

Having now finished the survey of the wholu archipelago, the season of the year niade it
necessary for mo to return to the south, while I had yet some time left to explore any land
I might meet with between this and New Zeal.and ; where I intended to touch, that I
might refresh my people, .and recruit our stock of wor"' and water for another southern
course. With this view, at five p.m. we tacked, and hauled to the southward, with a fresh
g.ale at S.E. At this time the N.W. point of the passjige, or the S.W. point of the island
Tierra del Espiritu Santo, the only remains of Quiros's ccmtinent, bore X. f{2" west, distant
three leagues. I named it Cape Lisburne, and its situ.ation is in latitude 15° 40', longitude
165° 59' cast.

The foregoing account of these islands, in the order in which we explored them, not being
particular enough either as to situation or description, it ni.ay not be improper now to give a
more accurate view of them, which, with the chart, will convey to the reader a better idea
of the whole group.

The northern islands of this .archipelago were first discovered by that great navigator,
Quiros, in lO'OG; and, not without reason, were considered as part of the southern conti-
nent, which, at that time, and until very lately, was supposed to exist. T'.iey were next
visited by M. de Bougainville, in I7O8; who, besides landing on the Isle of Lepers, did no
more tluvn discover that the Land was not connected, but composed of islands, which he
called the Great Cyclades. But as, besides ascertaining the extent and situation of these
ishands, we added to them several new ones which were not known before, .and explored tho
wliole, I think we have obtained a right to name them ; and shall in future distinguish them
by the name of the New Hebrides. They .are situated between the latitude of 14" 20' and
20" 4' south, and between 1()(>° 41' and 170° 21' east longitude, and extend an hundred and
twenty-five leagues in the direction of N.N.W. | west, and S.S. E. ', east.

The most northern island is that called by M. de Bougainville Peak of the Etoilc. It is

. 1,

1 1

1,1

524

COOKS SECOXI) VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Aio. 1774.

M-

i;=

situated, according to liis account, in latitude 14' 2S>', lonj^itude KiO' I)'; and, N. by AV.,
oiglit leagues from Aurora. Tlio next island, wliicli lies fiuthcst nortli, is tliat of Tierra del
l'-8|)iritu iSiinto. It is tlio most western and largest of all the Hebrides, being twLiity-two
leagues long, in the direction of N.X.W. ,] west, and y.y.E. .', east, twelve in breadth, and
sixty in circuit. We have (tbtained the true figure of tliis island very accurately. Tlio
land of it, especially the west side, is exceedingly high and mountainous; and, in many
places, the hills rise directly from the sea. Except tiie clift's and beaelus, every otiier part
is covered with wood, or lai<l out in plantations. Besides the Bay of St. Piiilip and St. Jago,
the isles which lie .along the south and east coast cannot, in my o})inion, fail of forming
some good bays or harbours.

Tiie next considerable island is that of IMaliicollo, to the S.E. It extends N.W. and
S.E., and is eighteen leagues long in that direction. Its greatest breadth, which is at the
S.E. end, is eight leagues. Tlie X.W. end is two-thirds this breadth ; and nearer the
middle, .ne-third. This contraction is occasioned by a wide and pretty deep bay on tho
8.W. side. To jmlgo of this island from what we saw of it, it must be very fertile and
well inhabited. The land on the sea-coast is rather low, and lies with a gentle sioj'e from
the liills whicli are in the middle of the island. Two-thirds of the N.E. coast were only seen
at a great distance; therefore the delineations of it on the chart can have no pretensions to
accuracy ; but the otiier ])arts, I apprehend, are witliout any material errors. St. Bartho-
lomew lies between the S.E. end of Tierra del I'^spiritu Santo, and the north end of Malli-
collo; and the distance between it and the latter is eight miles. This is the passage through
which 31. do Bougainville went; and the middle of it is in latitude 15° 4({'. Tlie Isle of
Lepers lies between l']spiritu Santo and Aurora Island, eight leagues from the former, and
three from the latter, in latitude !;'»- 22', and nearly under the same meridian as the S.E.
end of Mallieoilo. It is of an egg-like figure, very high, and eighteen or twenty leagues in
circuit. Its limits were determined by several bearings ; but the lines of the shore were
traced out by guess, except the N.E. part, where is anchorage half a mile from the land.

Aurora, Whitsuntide, Ambrym, Paoom, and its neighbour Apee, Threehills, and Sand-
wich Islands, lie all nearly under the meridian of lt)7' 20' or 30' east, extending from tho
latitude of 14' .51' 30", to 17" .53' 30". The island of Aurora lies N. by W. .nnd S. by E.,
and is eleven leagues long in that direction ; but I believe it hardly anywhere exceeds two
or two anil a half in breadth. It hath a good height, its surface hilly, and everywhere
covered with wood, except where the natives have their dwellings and plantations. Whit-
suntide Isle, wi.ich is one league and a h.alf to the south of Aurora, is of the same length,
and lies in the direction of north and south, but is something broader than Aurora Island.
It is considerably high, and clothed with wood, except such parts as seemed to be cultivated,
whieii were ))retty numerous.

Fr(jm tilt' south end of Whitsuntide Island to the north side of Ambrym is two leagues
and a half. This is about seventeen leagues in circuit; its shores are riather low, but the
land rises with an uner|ual ascent to a tolerably high mount.ain in the middle of the island,
from which ascended gre.at columns of smoke ; but we were not able to determine whether
this was occasioned by a volcano or not. That it is fertile and well inhabited seems pro-
bable, from the quantities of smoke which we saw rise out of the woods, in such parts of
the island as came within the comp.ass of our sight ; for it must be observed, that we did
not see the whole of it. We saw much less still of Paoom, and its neighbourhood. I can
say no more of this island than that it towers up to a great height, in the form of a round
haystack ; .and the extent of it, and of the adjoining isle (if there are two) cannot exceed
three or four leagues in any direction ; for the distance between Ambryn and Apee is hardly
five ; .aid they lie in this sp.ace, and cast from Port Sandwich, distant .about seven or eight
leagues. The island of Apee is n^'t less than twenty leagues in circuit; its longest direction
is about eight leagues N.W. and : ; it is of considerable height, and h.ath a hilly surface,
diversified with woods and lawns, t. west and south parts especially ; for the others we
did not sec.

Shepherd's Isles are a group of small ones of une([r..al size, extending oft' from the S.E.
point of Ajjce about five leagues, in the direction of S E. The isl.and Threehills lies south four

ii!

Ai'o. 1774.

, N. by W.,
if Tit-rra del
t\VLiity-t\V()
jrctilth, and
atcly. 'I'lio
iid, in many
y otiier part
ml St. Jago,
1 of forming

s N.W. and

ich is at the
! nearer tlio

l)ay on tlio
y fertile and
e slope from
re only seen
'etensions to
St. Bartho-
iid of jNIalli-
ajie tlirondi

The Isle of
former, and

as the S.E.
V leagues in

shore were
tlic land.
, and Sand-
ng from tlic
id S. by E.,
jxceeds two
everywhere
ns. Whit-

iine Icngtli,

ora Island.

cnltivatcd,

;wo leagncs
iw, but the

le island,
le whether
seems pro-
parts of
lat we did
I can
of a round
not exeeed

is hardly
m or eight
t direction

y surface,

others wo

the S.E.
south four

Aro. 1774.

COOKS SECOND VOYAOR ROUM) THE WOULD.

52.1

leagues from the coast of Ajiee, and S.E. }, S., distant seventeen leagues from Port Sand-
wicli : to this, and what has been already said of it, I shall only add, that AV. by N., five
miles from the west point, is a reef of rocks on which the sea continually breaks.

Nine leagues, in the direction of south, from Threehills, lies Sandwich Island. Twohills,
the ^[onument, and Montagu Islands, lie to the east of this lino, and Ilinchinbrook to the
west, as also two or three small isles which lie between it and Sandwich Island, to whieli
they aro connected by breakers. Sandwich Island is twenty-five leagues in cirenit ; its
greatest extent is ten leagues ; and it lies in the direction of S\AV. by W., and S.E. by E.
The N.W. coast of this island we only viewed at a distance ; thei'efore the chart in this
part may be faulty, so far as it regards the line of the coast, but no farther. The distance
from the south end of jMallicoUo to the N.AV. end of Sandwich Island is twenty -two leagues
in the direction of S.S.E. J E.

In the same direction lie Erromango, Tanna, and Annattom. Tlic first is eighteen
leagues from Sandwich Island, and is twenty-four or twenty-five leagues in circuit. The
middle of it lies in the latitude of \if 54', longitude 1(!9" 10' E., and it is of a good height,
as may be gathered from the distance we were off when we first saw it. Tanna lies six
leagues from the south side of Erromango, extending S.E. by S. and N.W. by N., about
eight leagues long in that direction, and everywhere about three or four leagiics broad.

Tiic Isle of Immer lies in the direction of N. by E. -\ V,., four leagues from Port
Resolntion in Tanna ; and the isliind of Erronan or Eootoona east, in the same direction,
distant eleven leagues. This, which is the most eastern island of all the Hebrides, did not
appear to be above five leagues in circuit, but of a considerable height, and flat at top. On
the N.E. side is a little peak, seemingly disjoined from the isle, but wo thought it was
comiected by low land. Annattom, .wliich is the soutiiornmnst island, is situated in the
latitude of 20" iV, longitude 170" 4', and S. .30" E., eleven or twelve leagues from F'ort
Resolution. It is of a good height, with a hilly surface ; and more I must not say of it.

Here follow the lunar observations by Mr. Wale=i, for ascertaining tlio longitude of
these islands, reduced by the watch to Port Sandwich in ^lallicollo and Port Resolution in
Tanna.

« C Mean of 10 sets of obaerv. before . . 1G7" 5(i'3.V'J"
e 5 . . 2 Ditto ... at 1G8 2 37

%l'. . . 20 Ditto .

\_ Mean of tliofc means .

,? o
&- X

after 107 .")2 57

' Mean of 20 sets of obscrv. before
H H 1 . . f> Ditto

20 Ditto

, Mean of those means

. 167

57 22 %

at 10!)
after 10i>

1(7 li.-) "
48 4(!
•17 22 J,

■1

. 1G9

44 So

It is necessary to observe, that each set of observations, consisting of between six and ten
observed distances of the sun and moon, or moon and stars, the whole number amounts to
several hundreds ; and those have been reduced, by means of the watch, to all the islands ;
so that the longitude of each is as well ascertained as that of the two ports above mentioned.
As a proof of this, I shall only observe, that the longitude of the two ports, as pointed out
by the watch and by the observations, did not differ two miles. This also shows what
degree of accuracy these observations are capable of, when miiltii>licd to a considerable
number, made with different instruments, and with the sun and stars, on both sides of the
moon. By this last method, the errors, which may be either in the instruments or
lunar tables, destroy one another, and likewise those which may arise from the observer
himself; for some men may observe closer than others. If we consider the number of
observations that may be obtained in the course of a month (if the weather is favourable),
we shall perhaps find this method of finding the longitude of jilaees as accurate as most
others ; at least, it is the most easy, and attended with the least expense to the observer.
Every ship that goes to foreign parts is, or m.ay be, supplied with a sufficient imniber of
quadrants at a small expense ; I mean good ones, proper for making these observations.
For the difference of the price between a good and bad one, I ajiprehend, can never be an

520

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Skpt. 1774.

object with an officer. The most expensive article, anil what is in some nicasnrc necessary
in order to arrive at the utmost accuracy, is a pood watcli ; but for cctmnion use, and wliere
that strict accuracy is not required, tliis may be dispensed with. I have observed before,
in this journal, that this method of finding tlic longitude is not so difficult but that any man,
with proper application, and a little practice, may soon learn to make these observatiims as
well as tl>e astronomers themselves. I have seldom known any material difference
between the observations made by Mr. Wales, and those made by the officers at the same
time ♦.

In observing the variation of the magnetic needle, wo found, as usual, our compasses
differ among themselves, sometimes near 2' ; the same compass, too, would sometimes mako
nearly this difference in the variation on different days, and even between the morning and
evening of the same day, when our change of situation has been but very little. By the
mean of the observations which I made about Erromango, and the S.E. part of these islands,
the variation of the compass was 10" f/ 40" east; and tlie moan of those made about Tierra
del Espiritu Santo gave 10" Ct' 30" cast. This is considerably more than Mr. Wales found
it to be at Tanna. I cannot say what might occasion this difference in tlio variation
observed at sea and on shore, unless it be influenced by the land ; for I must give the
preference to that found at sea, as it is agreeable to what wo observed before we made the
islands, and after we left them.

I..:

.1 I

t'lIAl'TER VIII. AN ACCOUNT OP THE DISCOVEHY OF NEW CALEDONIA, AND THE INCIDENTS

THAT HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN I3ALADE.

At sunrise on the 1st of September, after having stood to S.W. all night, no more Land
was to be seen. The wind remaining in the S.E. quarter, we continued to stand to S.W.
On the 2nd, at five o'clock P.M., being in the latitude lO" 22', longitude 165" 20', the variation
was 10" C)0' east; and at the same hour on the 3rd, it was 10" .51', latitude at that time
19" 14', longitude lOa" east. The next morning, in the latitude of 19" 49', longitude
164" 53', the amplitude gave 10" 21', and the azimuths W 7' east. At eight o'clock, as
we were steering to the south, land was discovered bearing S.S.W., and at noon it extended
from S.S.E. to W. by S., distant about six leagues. Wo continued to steer for it with
a light bret'zo at east, till five in the evening, when we were stopped by a calm. At this
time we were three leagues from the land, which extended from S.E. by S. to AV. by N.,
round by the S.W. Some openings appeared in the west, so that we could not tell whether
it was one connected land or a group of islands. To tlic S.E. the coast seemed to terminate
in a high jjromontory, which I named Capo Colnett, after one of my midshipmen, who first
discovered this land. Breakers were seen about half-way between us and the shore ; and,
behind them, two or three canoes under sail, standing out to sea, as if their design had been
to come off to us ; but a little before sunset they struck their sails, and we saw them
no more. After a few hours* calm, we got a breeze at S.E., and spent the night standing
oft' and on.

On the 5th, at sunrise, the horizon being clear, we could see the coast extend to tl' • ' .kl.
of Cape Colnett, and round by the S.W. to N.W. by W. Some gaps or openings were • j
be seen to the we; t ; and a reef, or breakers seemed to lie all along the coast, connected ith
those we discoveri^d the preceding night. It was a matter of indifference to me wlietlu we
plied up the coast to the S.E. or bore down to N'.AV. I chose the latter; and after running
two leagues down the outside of the reef (f"r such it proved), we came before an opening
that h,ad the appearance of a good channel, tiirough which we might go in for the land. I
w.anled to get at it, not only to visit it, but .also to have an opportunity to observe an
eclipse of the sun which was soon to happen. With this view we brought to, hoisted out
two armed boats, and sent them to sound the channel, ten or twelve large sailing canoes
beincr then near us. We had observed them coniinjx off from the shore, all the morninir,
from different parts ; and some were lying on the reef, fishing as we supposed. As soon as

* See piigc 443.

irv

Skpt. 1774.

c necessary
and where
vcd beft>re,
it any man,
rvations as
difference
< the same

coinpassi'S
lines make
orning and
!. By the
CSC islands,
ont Tieria
'ales found
) variation
st give the
) made the

INCIDENTS

more land

d to S.W.

3 variation
that time
longitude

j'clock, as
extended

or it with
At this

f- by N.,

whether

erminate

who first

re ; and,

|had been
them
standing

Pkpt. 1774.

COOK'S SIXOND VOY.\r,K ROUND TIIK WOULD.

|tl> ' i^:.

Ire J

Itcd ith
3tlu we
running
[opening
ul. I
«erve an
3ted out
canoes
orning,
I soon as

they all got together, they came down to us in a body, and wore pretty near when wo
were hoisting out our boats, which probably gave iliem some alarm ; For, without stopping, they
hauled in for the reef, and our boats followed tin in. We now saw that what we hatl taken
for openings in the coast was low hind, and that it was ail connected, except the western
extremity, which was an island, known by the name of Ualabea, as we afterwards learnt.

The boats having made a signal for a channel, and one of them being placed on the point
of the reef, on the weather side of it, we stood in with the >A\'\\\ and took up the otiier boat
in our way, when the officer informed me, tliat where we were to pass, was sixteen and
fourteen fathoms water, a fine sandy bottom, and that, having put alongside two canoes, he
found the people very obliging and civil. They gave liim some fish ; and, in return, ho
presented them with medals, &c. In one was a stout robust young man, whom they under-
stood to be a chief. After getting within the reef, we haided u)) S. J, E. for a small low
sandy isle that we observed lying under the shore, being followed by all the canoes. Our
sounding, in standing in, was from fifteen to twelve fathoms (a ])retty even fine ^^andy bottom),
for about two miles ; then we had six, five, ami four fatlioms. Tiiis was on tlie tail of a
shoal which lies a little without the small isle to the N.E. Being over it, we found seven
and eight fathoms water, which shallowed gradually, as we approached the shore, to tlireo
fathoms, when we tacked, stood oft' a little, and then anchored in five fiitlionis, the bottom
a find sand mixed with mud. The little sandy isle bore E. by S., three quarters of a mile
distant; and we were one mile from the shore of the main, which extended from S.E. by E.
round by the south to W.N.W. The island of Balabea bore N. W. by N., and the chaniul,
through which wo came, north, four miles distant. In this situation we were extremely
well sheltered from the reigning winds, by the sandy isle and its shoals, and by the shoal
without them.

We had hardly got to an anchor before wo were surrounded liy a great number of the
natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, the most of whom were witiiout any sort of weapons.
At first they were shy of coming near the sliip ; but in a short time we prevailed on the
people in one boat to get close enough to receive some presents, 'i'heso we lowered down to
them by a rope ; to which, in return, they tied two fish that stunk intolerably, as did those
they gave us in the morning. Tliese mutual exchanges bringing on a kind of ccmfidence, two
ventured on board the ship ; and presently after she was filled with them, and we had the
company of several at dinner in tlie eal)in. Our pea-soup, salt beef, and jiork, they had no
curiosity to taste ; but they ate of some yams, which we happened to have yet left, calling
them Oobee, This name is not unlike Oo/iv, as they are called at most of the islands, except
]\Iallicollo ; nevertheless we found these people spoke a language new to us. Like all the
nations we had lately seen, the men were almost naked, having hardly any other covering
but such a wrapper as is used at jMallicollo*. They were curious in examining every part of
the sliij), which they viewed with uncommon attention. They had not the least knowledge
of goats, hogs, dogs, or cats, and had not even a name for one of them. They seemed fond
of largo spike-nails, and pieces of red cloth, or indeed of any other colour ; but red was their
favourite.

After dinner I went on shore with two armed boats, having with us one of the natives who
had attached himself to me. We landed on a sandy beach before a vast number of people,
who had got together with no other intent than to see us; for many of them had not a stick
in their hands ; consequently we were received with great courtesy, and with the surprise
natural for people to exjircss at seeing men and things so new to them as we must be. I
made presents to all those my friend pointed out, who were either old men, or such as seemed
to be of some note ; but he to(di not the least notice of some women who stood behind the
crowd, luliling my hand when I was going to give them some beads and medals. Here we
found '.he saiiui chief who had been seen in one of the canoes in the morning. His name, we
now Ic.rnt, \.as Teabooma ; and we had not been on shore above ten minutes, before ho
called fir silence. Being instantly obeyed by every individual present, he made a short
speech ; and soon after another chief having called for silence, made a speech also. It was
pleasing to sec with what attention they were heard. Their speeches were composed of

* Sec tlic noto at paj,'!' 499.

II i

I'i

hiii!'

'i\

i r*

(!':

f',j

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

1.1

m Hi

■ 40

■ 2.2

2.0

IL25 i 1.4

Hiotographic

Sdences

Corporation

23 WIST MAIN »iitfE

WnSTIR.N.Y. USIO

(716) •72-4503

IHj

! t

520

COOKS SECOND VOYAOF-: ROrXI) TIIK WOULD.

Skpt. 1774.

short sentences ; to cacli of which two or throe old men answered, l»y nodihling tlieir heads,
and giving a kind of grunt, significant, iis I thought, of approliation. It was impossible for
ns to know the ].;!r)»ort of these s|»ecches ; but we liad reason to think they were favonrabh;
to us, on whoso account they doubtless were niaih?. I kept my eye^ fixed on the people all
the time, and saw nothing to induce me to think otherwise. While we were with them,
having inquire<l, by signs, for fresh water, some pointed to the east, and others to the west.
My friend undertook to conduct u-; to it, and embarked with us for that purpose. We rowed
about two miles up the coast to the east, where the shore was mostly covered with mangrove
trees ; and entering amongst them, by a narrow creek or river, which brought us to a little
strnggling village above all the mangroves, there we landed, and were shown fresh water.
The ground near this village was finely cultivated, being laid out in plantations of sugar-
canes, plantains, yams, and other roots ; and watered by little rills, conducted bj art from
the main stream, whose source was in th'i hills. Here were some cocoa-nut trees, which «lid
not seem burdened with fruit. We heard the crowing of cocks, but saw none. Some roots
were baking on a fire, in an earthen jar, which would have held six or eight gallons ; nor did
we doubt its being their own manufacture. As we proceedeil up the creek, Mr. Forster
having shot a duck flying over ouriieads, which was the first use these people saw made of
our fire-arms, my friend begged to have it ; and when ho landed, told his countrymen in
what manner it was killed. The day being far spent, and the tide not permitting us to stay
longer in the creek, we took leave of the peoj)le, and got on board a little after sunset. From
this little excursion, I found that we won to expect nothing from these people but the privi-
lege of visiting their country untlisturbed. For it was easy to see they had little else than
good-n.iturc to bestow. In this they exceeded all the nations we had yet met with ; and,
although it did not satisfy tiie demands of nature, it at once ]deased and left our minds
at ease.

Next morning wc were visited by some hundreds of the natives ; some coming in canoes,
and others swimming off; so that before ten o'clock, our decks, and all other parts of the
ship, were quite full with them. ]My friend, who was of the number, brought me a few
roots, but all the others came empty in respect to eatables. Some few had with them their
arms, such as clubs and darts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of cloth, &c. After
breakfast, I sent Lieutenant Pickcrsgill with two armed boats to look for fresh water ; for
what we found the day V "fore was by no means convenient for us to get on board. At the
same time, Air. Wales, accompanied by Lieutenant Clerke, went to the little isle to make
pieparations for observing the eclipse of the sun, which was to be in the arternoon. Mr.
Pickcrsgill soon returning, informed me that he bad found a stream of fresh water, pretty
convenient to come at. I therefore ordered the launch to be hoisted out to complete our
water, and then went to the isle to assist in the observAtion.

About one p.m. the eclipse came on. Clouds interposed, and wn lost the first contact,
out were more fortunate in the end, which was observed as follows : —

Rv Mr. Wales witli Diilliiiurs ^\ font aclirouiatic refractor, at

Ity Mr. Clcrko with Hir.l's 2 foot rilU'itor, at . . ,1

And by iiic with an 18 iiicli rrllfctor, made liv Watkiiis . 3

ill 2S' Aoy

2S' ioy)

28 r.2> [
28 53i \

Apparent lime.

Latitude of the isle or place of observation, 20" 1/' .^9" south.

Longitude per distance of the sun and moon, and moon and stars, 48 sets, 1(54' 41' 21" E.

Ditto i)er watch . . . . . . KKl '>{] {)

Air. Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by a Iladley's quadrant, a method never before
thought of. I am of opinion it answers the purpose of a micrometer to a great degree of
certainty, and is a great adtlition to the use of this most valuable instrument. After all was
over, we returned on board, where I found Teabooma the chief, who soon after slipped out
of the ship witliout my knowledge, and by that means lost the pn sent I had made up for
him. In the evening I went ashore to the watering-place, which was at the head of a little
creek, at a fine stream that came from the hills. It was necessary to have a small boat in
tho creek to convey the casks from and to the beach over wliich they were rolled, and then
put into the launch ; as only a small boat could enter the creek, ami that only at high water.

I i J *l W

rfirzj^.^

Skpt. 1774.

tlioir licads,
npossiblo for
re fiivouniblo
lie pt'oplo all

with tlicm,

to tlie west.

We rowed

til mangrove

us to a little

fresh water,
ms of siigar-

bj art from

;s, which did

Some roots

:)ns ; nor did

Mr. Forster
saw made of
untrymen ir.
ig us to stay
unset. From
>it the privi-
tlc else than

with ; and,
t our minds

Ig in canoes,

parts of the

lit me a few

1 them their

&c. After

water ; for

At the

isle to make

noon. iVlr.

atcr, pretty

omj>lete our

irsst contact,

Sept. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE UOIND THE AVOIILD.

r,-20

rd.

41'21"K.

ever before
t degree of
fter all was
slipped out
lade up for
J of a little
lall boat in
, and then
ligh water.

Excellent wood for fuel was here far more cnnvonicnt than water, but this was an article we
did not want. About seven o'clock this evening, died Simon Monk, our butiher, a man much
esteemed in the ship ; his ileath being occasionc<l by a fall down the fore-hatchway the
preceding night.

Early in the morning of the 7th, the watering-party, and a gtiard, under the command of
an officer, were sent ashore ; and soon after, a i)arty of us went to take a view of the country.
As soon as we landed, we made known our design to the natives, and two of them under-
taking to be our guides, conducted us up the hills by a tolerably good path. In our route
we met several people, most of whom turned back with us ; so that at last our train was
nnmerous. Some we met who wanted us to return ; but we paid no regard to their signs,
nor did they seem uneasy when we proceeded. At length we reached the sununit f)f one of
the hills, from which we saw the sea in two places, between some advanced hills on the
opposite or S.W. side of the land. This was a useful discovery, as it enabled us to judge of
the breadth of the land, which, in this part, did not exceed ten leagues. Hitwecn those
advanced hills and the ridge we were upon, was a large valley, through which ran a scrjieii-
tine river. On the banks of this were several plantations, and some villages, whose inhabit-
ants we had met on the road, and found more on the top of the hill gazing at the ship, as
might bo supposed. The plain or flat land, which lies along the shore we were uj)on,
appeared from the hills to a great advantage ; the winding streams which ran througli it,
the plantations, the little straggling villages, the variety in the woods, and the shoals on the
coast, so varieg.ating the scene, that the whole might atl'ord a jjicture for romance. Indeed,
if it were not for those fertile spots on the j)lains, and some few on the sides of the m<iuntains,
the whole country might be called a dreary waste. The mountains and other high ]>la<es
are, for the most part, incapable of cultivation, consisting chiefly of recks, many of wiiieli
arc full of mundicks. The little soil that is u|)on them is scorched and burnt up with the
sun ; it is, nevertheless, coated with coarse gra.^ii and other plants, and here and there trees
and shrubs. The country in general bore great resemblance to some parts of New Holland
under the same parallel of latitude, several of its natural productions seeming to be the same,
and the woods being without underwood, as in that country. The reefs on the coast, and
several other similarities, were obvious to every one who liad seen both countries. We
observed all the N.E. coast to be covered with shoals and breakers, extiiidiiig to the
northward, beyond the isle of Ralabea, till they were lost in the horizon. Having made
these observations, and our guides not choosing to go farther, we descemlcd the moim-
tains by a road ditterent from that by which we ascended. This bro\ight us down througli
some of their plantations in the plains, which I observed were laid out with great judg-
ment, and cultivated with much labour. Soine of them were lying in fallow ; some seem-
ingly lately laid down, and others of longer date, j)ieces of which they were again beginning
to dig up. The first thing I observed they did, was to set fire to the grass, &e. which
had over-run the surface. Recruiting the land by letting it lie some years luitouclied, is
observed by all the nations in the sea ; but they seem to have no notion of manuring it, at
least I have nowhere seen it done. Our excursion was finished by noon, when we returned
on board to dinner ; and one of our guides having left us, we brought the other with us,
whose fidelity was rewarded at a small expense.

In the afternoon, I made a little excursion alon;.'shore to the westward, in company with
Mr. Wales. Besides making observations on such things as we met, we got tlie names of
several places, which I then thought were islands; but, upon farther inquiry, I foimd they
were districts upon this same land. This afternoon, a fish being struck by one of the natives
near the watering-place, my clerk purchased it, and sent it to me after my return on board.
It was of a new species, something like a sun-fish, with a large, long, ugly head. Having
no suspicion of its being of a poisonous nature, we ordered it to be dressed for supper ; but,
very luckily, the operation of drawing and describing took up so much time, that it was too
late, so that only the liver and roe were dressed, of which the two Mr. Forsters and myself
did but taste. About three o'clock in the morning, we found ourselves seized with an extra-
ordinary weakness and numbness all over our limbs : I had almost lost the sense of feeling,
nor could I distinguish between light and heavy bodies, of such as I had strength to move ;

M M

r'l

;l,

■ii!

1 :' '

ff^

: <

830

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

Sept. 1774.

I i

R qnart pot full of water niul a fcatlior being tlie same in my hand. We each of us took an
emetic, and after tliat a nwert, wliicli gave >i8 inucli relief. In tlie morning, one of tlie jjiga
whicli liad eaten tlie entraiU wn» found dead. When the natives came on board, and saw
the fish hang up, they inmudiately gave us to understand it was not wholcHome food, and
expressed the utmost abhorrence of it ; though no one was observed to do this when the fish
was to he sold, or even after it was purchased.

On the Hth, the guard and a i)arty of men wore on shore as usual. In the afternoon, I
received a message from the officer, acquainting me that Tcabooma, the chief, was come with
a ]>r(sent, consisting of a few yams ami sugar-canes. In return I sent him, amongst other
articles, a dog and a bitch, both young, but nearly full-grown. The dog was red and white,
but the hit(!h was all red, or the colour of an Knglish fox. I mention this, because they may
prove the Adam and Kvc of their species in that country. When the officer returned on
board in the evening, he informed me that the chief came attended by about tv.-enty men, so
that it looked like a visit of ceremony. It was some time before he would believe the dog
and bitch were intended for him ; but as soon as ho was convinced, he seemeil lost in an
excess of joy, and sent them away immediately. Next morning early, I despatched Lieu-
tenant Pickersgill and Mr. Gilbert, with the launch and cutter, to explore the coast to tho
west ; judging this would he better effijcted in the boats than in the ship, as tiie reefs would
force the latter several leagues from land. After breakfast, a party of men was sent ashore
to nuike brooms ; but myself and the two 3f r. Forsters were confined on board, though much
better, a good sweat liaving liad a ha]i])y effi^'ct. In the afternoon, a man was seen, both
asliore and alongside the shij), said to be as white as any European. From tlio acc(uint I
had of him (for I did not see him), his whiteness did not ])roccod from hereditary desce'.t,
but from chance or some disease ; and siich liave been seen at Otahcite and the Society Isles *.
A fresh easterly wind, and the ship lying a mile from the shore, did not hinder these good-
natured people from swimming off to us in shoals of twen*.y or thirty, and returning tho
same way.

On the 10th, a party was on shore as usual ; and Mr. Forster so well recovered as to go
out botaui7.ing. In the evening of the 11th the boats returned, v'hen I was informed of the
following circumstances. From an elevation which they reached the morning they set out,
they liad a view of the coast. Mr. Gilberts was of opinion that they saw the termination of
it to the west, but Mr. Pickersgill thought not ; though both agreed that there was no
passage for the ship that way. From this place, accompanied by two of the natives, they
went to Balabea, which they did not reach till after sunset, and left again next morning
before sunrise ; consequently this was a fruitless expedition, and the two following days
were spent in getting up to the ship. As they went down to the isle, they saw abundance
of turtle, but the violence of the wind and sea made it impossible to strike any. The cutter
was near being lost, by suddenly filling with water, which obliged them to throw several
things overboard before they could free her and stop the leak she had sprung. From a fishing
canoe, which they met coming in from the reefs, they got as much fish as they could cat ;
and they were received by Teabi, the chief of the isle of Dalabea, and the people, who came
in numbers to see them, with great courtesy. In order not to be too much crowded, our
people drew a line on the ground, and gave the others to understand they were not to come
within it. This restriction they observed ; and one of them, soon after, turned it to his own
advantage : for happening to have a few cocoa-nuts, whu-h one of our people wanted to buy,
and he was unwilling to part with, ho walked off, and was followed by the man who wanted
them. On seeing this, he sat down on the sand, made a circle round him, as he had seen
our people do, and signified that the other was not to come within it ; which was accordingly
observed. As this story was well attested, I thought it not unworthy of a place in this
journal.

Early in tho morning of the 1 2th, I ordered the carpenter to work, to repair tho cutter,
and tho water to be rei)laced which we had expended the three preceding days. As Tea-

• Wnfor nirl willi Imliaiig in tlic T«iluiin8(if Itnricn <if Iiii|iiii'ies cnnocriiinj tlm Ainrrirnns, wlicrc several oilier
tlir r'!)()iir of a wliito lioi>i . See lii< Difcriii/imi itf t)ir iii«l:iiiri<i nf lliis niiiiirkalilc wliilnie'i' iiiv mciilioiied, luul
Islhtnus, p. X'H, See also Mr. dc \\\\\\ I'liilusul'liicul the causes uf it altcuijiled In be expluiueil.

fci» ■ ^ii ^ y I

Skpt. 1774.

us took an
jf llio i»iga
[1, and saw
! fooil, and
len the finh

fternoon, I
come with
nngst other
and white,
i they may
•etiirncd on
ity men, so
.'vc the dog
lost in an
tchcd Lien-
[loast to the
reefs would
sent aishoro
lougli much
) seen, hotli
ic account I
iry desce'-.t,
liety Isles *.
these good-
ituruing tUo

red as to go
trmed of tiie
liey set out,
mination of
icre was no
ativcs, they
xt morning
nwing days
abundance
The cutter
row several
)m a fishing
could eat ;
who came
owded, our
lot to come
to his own
ted to buy,
vho wanted
ic had seen
.ccordingly
lace in thia

I the cutter,
As Tea-

several oilier
Iciilioiicd, 1111(1

Skpt. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGK IIOI^NI) THE WORLD.

CIl

boonia, the chief, had not been seen since he got the dogs, and I wanted to lay a fuumlation
for stocking the country witii hogs also, I took a young boar and sow with niu in the boat,
and went up the mangrove creek to look for my friend, in order to give them to him. But
when we arrived there, we were told that he lived at some distance, ami that they would
send for him. Whether they did or not, I cannot s-iy ; but, he not coming, I resolved to
give them to the first man of note I met with. The guide we had to the hill? iiai>i)cning to
be there, I made him understand that I intended to leave the two pigs on shore, and ordered
them out of the boat for that purpose. I offered them to a grave old nuin, tliiiikiiig he was
a projjcr person to entrust them with ; but be shook his head, ami he, and all present, made
signs to take them into the boat again. When they saw I did not comply, they seemed to
consult with one another what was to be done ; and then our guide told me to carry them
to the Akicee (chief). Accordingly I ordered them to be taken up, and we were conducted
by him to a house wherein were seated, in a circle, eight or ten middk-aged persons. To
them I and my pigs being introduced, with great courtesy they desired me to *it down ; and
then I began to expatiate on the merits of the two pigs, explaining to them how many
young ones the female would have at one time, and how soon these would multiply to some
hundreds. My only motive was to enhance their value, that they might take the more care
of them ; and I had reason to think I, in some measure, succeeded. In the mean time, two
men having left the company, soon returned with six yams, which w ere presented to me ;
and then I took leave and went on board.

I have ahead', -ibserved, that here was a little village; I now found it much larger than
I expected, and about it a good deal of cultivated land, regularly laid oiit, planted and
planting with taro or eddy root, yams, sugar-canes, and plantains. The taro plantations
were prettily watered by Httle rills, continually supplied from the main ch.innel at the foot
of the mountains, from whence these streams were conducted in artful meanders. They
have two methods of planting these roots ; some are in square or oblong patches, which lie
perfectly horizontal, and sink below the common level of the adjacent land ; so that they can
let in on them as much water as they think necessary. I have generally seen them covered
two or three inches deep ; but I do not know tliat this is always necessary. Others are
planted in ridges about three or four feet broad, and two or two and a half high. On the
middle or top of the ridge is a narrow gutter, in and along which is conveyed, as above
described, a little rill that waters the roots planted in the ridge on each side of it ; and these
])Iantations are so judiciously laid out, that the same stream waters several ridges. These
ridges arc sometimes the divisions to thu horizontal plan:.itions ; and when this method is
used, which is for the most part observed where a pathway or something of that sort is
requisite, not an inch of ground is lost. Perhaps there may be some difterence in the roots,
which may make *hesc two methods of raising them necessary. Some are better tisted than
others, and they are not all of a colour ; but be this as it may, they are a very wholesome
rood, and the tops make good greens, and are eaten as such by the natives. On these i)lan-
tations, men, women, and children were employed.

In the afternoon I went on shore, and, on a large tree, which stood close to the shore, near
the N'atering-place, liad an inscription cut, setting forth the ship's name, date, &c., as a testi-
mony of our being the first discoverers of this country, as I had done at all others at which
we had touched, where this ceremony was necessary. This being done, we took leave of our
friends, and returned on board, when I ordered all the boats to be hoisted in, in order to bo
ready to put to sea in the morning.

CHAPTER IX. A DESCRIPTION OF THE COINTRY A^•U ITS I.MIAI11TANT8 J THEIR MAN>ERS,

CUSTOMS, AM) ARTS.

I SHALL conclude our transactions at this place with some account of the country and its
inhabitants. They are strong, robust, active, well-made people, courteous and friendly, and
not in the least addicted to pilfering, which is more than can be said of any other nation in
this sea. They are nearly of the same colour as the natives of Tanna, but have better

M M 2

, 1 ;

\ii :

I 1

832

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Sept. 1T74.

.' I'

> !■

features, more agrconhlc coiintonnnces, an"d arc a much stotiter race ; a fow hcing seen wlin
mcasureil six foot four iiicli«'s. I observed sonic- who had thick lips, flat noses, and full
cliceks, and, in sonic degree, tlie features and look of a negro. Two things eontrihutcd to
the forming of such an iiU'a : first, tlieir rough mop heads ; and secondly, their besmearing
their faces with black pigment. Tiicir hair and beards are in general black. The former is
very much frizzled ; so that at first sight it appears like that of a negro. It is, nevertheless,
very diftercnt, though both coarser and stronger than ouis. Some, who wear it long, tie it
up on the crown of the head ; others sutt'er only a large lock to grow on each side, which
they tie up in clubs ; many others, as well as all the women, wear it cropped short. These
rough heads most prob.ibly want frequent scratching, for which purpose they have a most
excellent instrument. This is a kind of cond) made of sticks of hard wood, from seven to
nine inches long, and about the thickness of knitting-needles. A number of these, seldom
exceeding twenty, but geuerally fewer, are fastened together at one end, parallel t«, and
near l-lOth of an inch from e.ach other. The other ends, which are a little pointid, will
spread out or open like the sticks of a fan, by which means tiiey can beat up the quarters
of a huniln d lice at a time. These combs or scratchers — for I believe they serve both
purposes — they always wear in their hair, on one side their head. The people of Tanna
have an instrument of this kind, for the same use; but theirs is forked, I think never
exceeding three or four prongs ; and sometimes only a small pointed stick. Their be.irds,
which are of the same crisp nature as their hair, are, for the most part, worn short. Swelled
and ulcerated legs and feet are common among the men, as also a swelling of the scrotum.
I know not whether this is occasioned by disease, or by the mode of api)lying the wrapper
before mentioned, and which they use as at Tanna and ^[allieollo. This is their only
covering, and ia made generally of the bark of a tree, but sometimes of leaves. The small
pieces of cloth, paper, &c., which they got from us, were commonly applied to this use. Wo
saw coarse garments amongst them, made of a sort of matting ; but they seemed never to
wear them, except when out in their canoes, and unemployed. Some had a kind of concave,
cylindrical, stiflf black cap, which appeared to be a great ornament among them, and, we
thought, was only worn by men of note, or warriors. A largo sheet of strong paper, when
they got one from us, was generally applied to this use.

The women's dress is a short petticoat, made of the filaments of the plantain- tree laid
over a cord, to which they are fastened, and tied round the waist. The petticoat is made at
least sijc or eight inches thick, but not one inch longer than necessary for the use designed.
The outer filaments are dyed black ; and, as an additional ornament, the most of them
have a few pearl oyster-shells fixed on the right side. The general ornaments of both sexes
are ear-rings of tortoise-shell, necklaces or amulets, made both of shells and stones, and
bracelets, made of large shells, which they wear above the elbow. They have punctures, or
marks on the skin, on several parts of the body ; but none, I think, are black as at the
eastern islands. I know not if they have any other design than ornament ; and the people
of Tanna arc marked much in the same manner.

Were I to judge of the origin of this nation, I should take them to be a race between the
people of Tanna and of the Friendly Isles ; or between those of Tanna and the New
Zealanders, or all three ; their language, in some respects, being a mixture of them all. In
their disposition they are like the natives of the Friendly Isles, but in aifability and honesty
they excel them. Notwithstanding their pacific inclination, they must sometimes have
wars, as they are well provided with offensive weapons, such as clubs, spears, darts, and
slings for throwing stones. The clubs are about two feet and a half long, and variously
formed ; some like a scythe, others like a pick-axe ; some have a head like a hawk, and
others have round heads ; but all are neatly made. Many of their darta and spears are no
less neat, and ornamented with carvings. The slings are as simple as possible ; but tiioy
take some pains to form the stones that they use into a j)roper shape, which is something
like an egg, supposing both ends to be like the small ono. They use a becket in the same
manner as at Tanna, in throwing the dart, which, I believe, is much used in striking fish,
&c. In this they seem very dexterous ; nor, indeed, do I know that they have any other
method of catching large fish ; for I ueither saw hooks nor lines among them. It ia needless

Sept. 1774.

ing seen wlin
)so9, and full
nntril)iit(>(l to
r besinearin[»
riie former is
nevertlieluss,
it long, tie it
1 side, wliich
iliort. Tiirso

liavc a most
rom seven to
tliese, selilom
rallel t<>, and

pointed, will
t tlu' quarters
'y serve liotli
)lo of Tanna

think never
riieir beards,
ort. Swelled
the scrotum.

tho wrapper
s their only
I. The small
this use. Wo
micd never to
id of concave,
Item, and, wo

paper, when

ain-trcc laid
at is made at
use designed,
lost of them
of both sexes
i stones, and
punctures, or
ck as at the
d the peoj)lo

between the
lid the New
hem all. In
and honesty
ictimes have
's, darts, and
nd variously

hawk, and
ipcars arc no

; but tlicy
8 something
in the same
itriking fish,
ve any other
t is needless

Sbm. 1774. COOKS SKCOND VOVA(.K ROI'NO T!IE MOULD.

633

to mention their workiif. tools, as they arc maile of the same materials, and nearly in tho
same m.-inner. as at the other iMlandc. Their ax(•^^, indeed, arc a little dilVerent— some, at least
—which may be owing to fancy as nmch as custom.

Their bousi>9, or at least most of them, are eirenlar ; somethinc I'k'' a beehive, and full as
dose and warm. The entrance is by a small door, or long square hole, just big enough to
admit a man bent double. The side-walls are about four feet an<l a half high ; but the roof
is lofty, and peaked to a jjoint at the top, above wiiich is a jtost or stick of wood, wliich is
generally ornamented either with carving or shells, or both. Tiic framing is of small sjjars,
reeds, &c., and both sides and roof are thick, and close covered with thatch, niade of coarse
long grass. In the inside of the house are si-t up posts, to which cross spars are fastened and
platforms made, for the conveniency of laying anything on. Some houses have two floors,
one above the other. The floor is laid with dry grass, and here and there mats arc spread
for the principal people to sleep or sit on. In most of them we foinid two fire-jjlaces ; and
Oimmonly a fire burning ; aii<l, as there was no vent for the smoke but by the door, the
whole Iiousc was both smoky and hot, insomuch that we, who are not used to such an
atmosphere, could hardly endure it a moment. This may bo the reason why we found
these jM'ojde so chilly when in the oj)en air and without exercise. We frequently saw them
make little fires any wh.Te, and hustle round them, with no other view than to warm them-
selves. Smoke within doors may be a necessary evil, as it prevents tlio musquitocs from
coming in, which arc pretty numerous here. In some ri>spects their habitations arc neat ;
for, besides the ornaments at top, I saw some with carvetl door-]iosts. Uj)on the whole,
their houses are better calculated for a cold than a hot climate ; and as there arc uo partitions
in them, they can have little privacy.

They have no great variety of household utensils ; the earthen jars before mentioned
being the only article worth notice. Each family has, at least, one of them, in which they
bake their roots, and ])crha|)S their fish, &c. The fire by which they cook their victuals is
on the outside of each house, in the open air. There are throe or
five pointed stones fixed in the ground, their pointed ends being "r?rii
ab<jut six inches above the surface, in the form conjoined. Those
of three stones are only for one jar, those of five stones for two. The
jars do not stand on their bottoms, but lie inclined on tlieir sides. The
use of these stones is, obviously, to keep the jars from resting on
the fire, in order that it may burn the better. They subsist chiefly on roots and fish, and
the bark of a tree, which, I am told, grows also in the West Indies. This they roast, and are
almost continually chewing. It has a sweetish, insipid taste, and was liked by some of our
people. Water is their only lifjuor ; at least I never saw any other made use of. Plantains
and sugar-canes are by no means in plenty. Bread-fruit is very scarce, and the cocoa-nut
trees are small, and but thinly planted ; and neither one nor tho other seems to yield much
fruit.

To judge merely by the numbers of tho natives we saw every day, one might think the
island very populous ; but I believe that at this time the inhabitants were collected from all
parts on our account. ^Ir. Pickersgill observed, that down the coast, to the west, there
were but few people ; and we knew they came daily from the ether side of the land, over
the mountains, to visit us. lUit although the inhabitants, upon the whole, may not be
numerous, the island is not thinly peopled on the sea-coast, and in tho plains and valleys that
are capable of cultivation. It seems to be a country unable to support many inhabitants.
Nature has been less bountiful to it than to any other tropical island we know in this sea.
Tlie greatest part of its surface, or at least what we saw of it, consists of barren, rocky
mountams ; and the grass, &c., growing on them, is useless to people who have no cattle.
The sterility of the country will apologize for the natives not contributing to the wants of
the navigator. The sea may, perhaps, in some measure compensate for the deficiency of
the land ; for a coast surrounded by reefs and shoals as this is, cannot fail of being stored
with fish.

I have before observed, that the country bears great resemblance to New South Wales,
or New Ilolland, and that some of its natural productions are the same. In particular, we

'■i

COOKS SECOND VOYAOE ROUND THE WOULD.

Skpt. 1774.

foaii'l here tlic tr<>«' wlii<Ii is covercil witli a Hoft wliito ragged Imrk, easily iioeleil oft*, and is,
a« I Itarc Uicn t^<M. tin- same t)i:it in tlic Kast liidi(>8 is used for caiilkin;; of s1ii|is. TIiu
w»i*»l i- v<fy hiUTil ; tlie leaves are long and narrow, of a i)ale dead ^jreen and a fine aromatic ;
»► lEt»l it may ]>rii]>«rly l>e said to Ijeloni; to tliat continent. Nevertheless, here arc several
i>bnt«^ &<•-, cuiiiiiion t.i the eastern and northern islands, and even a species of tlu! passion-
fl'.wrtr. whidi, I am told, lias never before heen known to^^row wild anywhere but in America.
Oar h«4aiiist« <lid not com])lain for want of employment at this jdacc ; every <lay brin},'in}»
!K>aictliia^ iK'W in botany or other branches of natural history. Land-birds, indeed, arc not
nnnKTo-iis l«ut several are new. One of these is a kind of crow — at least, so wt? called it,
tht>i«_»li it i« not balf isn big, and its feathers arc tinged with blue. They also have somo
Ttiy iM-aatiful turtle-doves, and other small birds, such as 1 never saw before.

All »Atr ciKUavonrs t<» get the name of the whole island proved inefVeetnal. Probably, it
is t"** lar^o f<«r them to know by <me name. Whenever we made this iiiipiiry, they always
gare tt» the name of xome district or place, which wc pointed t< ; ami, as before observed, I
•'M the naiiK^ of wveral, with the name of the king or chief of each. Hence, I conclude
that tlie ccHintr}- is divided into several districts, each governed by a chief; but we know
ntitdin;; of the extent of his power, lialado was the name of the district wc were at, anil
Tea H-^mtfi tLo diief. lie lived on the other side of the ridge of hills, so that we had but
liltk^ «»f Lr? comjiany, and therefore could not see much of his power. Tin seems a title
f rt fix«)i] to tlic names of all or most of their chiefs or great men. My friend honoured mu
hy railing mo TVvi Cook.

Thej deport tbeir dead in the ground. I saw none of their burying-places ; but several
i>f tlie 2»till<-nien did. In one, they were informed, lay the remains of a chief, who was
slain in tattle ; and liis grave, which bore some resemblance to a large mole-hill, was
decoratKul with ^>ears, darts, paddles, Sic, all stuck upright in the ground round about it.
T\\e ranoef which these jicople use are somewhat like those of the Friendly Isles, but tins
Di'>t licaTv. clumsy vessels I ever saw. They are what I call double canoes, made out of
two larpc- tr(i(^ bollowed out, having a raised gunnel about two inches high, and closed at
each end with a kind of bulk-head of the same height ; so that the whole is like a long
Mjiiapf tTKHiglu al»out three feet shorter than the body of the canoe ; that is, a foot and
a half at tadi t-nd. Two canoes, thus fitted, are secured to each other, about three feet
a<iin<Ir'r. I«y nuana of cross spars, which project about a foot over each side. Over these
spar* i* laid a d<xk or very heavy platform, made of plank and small round spars, on which
tin y haTit- a fin-hearth, and generally a fire burning ; and they carry a pot or jar to dress
their Tictnal-' in. The space between the two canoes is laid with ])lank, and the rest with
sj)ar*. On t«>e ^^^k' of the deck, and close to the edge, is fixed a row of knees, pretty near
to caclr ot3»cx. the ust df which is to kee|» the mast, yards, &c. from rolling overboard. They
an> naTigatiwI by one <tr two latteen sails, extended to a small latteen yard, the end of which
fixts in a ixitdi or hole in the deck. The foot of the sail is extended to a small boom.
The sail i* cu>nijx»sed of pieces of m.itting ; the ropes are made of the coarse filaments of the
plantain-tTx^, twi^^lt**! into cords of the thickness of a finger; and three or four more such
Cord-*, maritd tiiiethiT, sirve them for shrouds, ike. I thought they sailed very well; but
they are ikA at all calculated for rowing or paddling. Their method of proceeding, when
thty cann>A <^ail, is by sculling ; and for this purpose there are holes in the boarded deck or
]>lacf»nn. Through these they put the sculls, which arc of such a length, that, when the
blade t* in the wrati-r, the l()oni or handle is four or five feet above the deck. The man who
w.>rLi it sta»<L> Wliind, and with both his hands sculls the vessel forward. This method of
pmcvvdin^ in ver>- slow, and for this reason the canoes are but ill calculated for fishing,
c^ipccially f«-T rtriking of tiirtle, which, I think, can hardly ever be done in them. Their
fiahin;; inipkniciiLs. such as I have seen, are turtle-nets, made, I believe, of the filaments of
the |4antain-trcv twlste-d ; and small hand-nets with very minute meshes made of fine twine,
and fi-?Ei-2i^-. Tlieir general method of fishing, I guess, is to lie on the reefs in shoal water,
and to ■s-uike tlje fi-h that may come in their way. Tiiey may, however, have other
luetluwl^ which we had no opi)ortunity to see, as no boat went out while we were here, all
thtir time and attention being taken up with us. Their canoes are about thirty feet long,

8kpt. 1774.

il oil', nnd ifl,
f!ii)is. TIio
If aromatic ;
L- are several
tlie pasHioii-
iii AiiK-ricn.
lay briiij,'in<^
leed, are not
ive called it,
liavo 801110

Probably, it
tliey always

observed, I
, I coiiclutlu
lit we know
kverc at, and

we bad liiit
teems a titio
loiiuured mo

bnt several
ef, wlio was
le-bill, was
nd about it.
lies, but tlu!
iinde out of
nd closed at
1 like a long
a foot and
t tliree feet
Over these
I, on wliieli
jar to dress
rest with
)retty near
jard. Tlicy
id of wliieb
mall boom,
nts of the
moro such
well ; but
ing, when
ed deck or
when the
man who
method of
i>r fishing,
Their
anients of
inc twine,
loal water,
avo other
e here, all
feet long.

f f .

8i:pt. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

fta.i

and the deck or ])1.Ttf(ii-in about twenty-four in length, and ton in breadth. We had not, at
this time, seen any timber in the country so largt' as that of which their canoes were made.
It way observed, that the holes made in the sevenil jtarts, in order to sew them together,
were burnt through, but with what instrument we never learnt; most |)robal»ly it was of
stone ; which may be the reason why tliey were so fond of large si>ikes, seeing at once they
would answer this purpose. 1 was convinced they were not wholly designed for edge-tools;
because every one showed a desire f<ir the iron belaying pins wiiich were lixed in the iiuarter-
dick rail, and seemed to value them far more tiian a spike-nail, .although it might be twicu
as big. These pins, which arc round, perhaps have the very shape of the tool they wanted
tu make of the nails. I did not tind that a hatchet was quite so valuable as a largo
spike. Small nails were of little or no value ; and beails, looking-glasses, *ic., they did not
admire.

The women of this country, and likewise those of Tanna, are, so far as I could judge, far
more chaste than those of the more eastern islands. 1 never heard that one of our peopio
obtained the least favour from any one of them. 1 have been told, that the ladies here would
fre<piently divert themselves, by going a little aside with our gentlemen, as if tliev meant
to be kind tu them, and then would run away laughing at them. Whether this was chastity
or coquetry, 1 shall not pretend to determine ; nor is it material, since the consequences
were the same.

CIIAl'TCR X PROCEEDINGS ON THE COAST OK NEW CALEDONIA, WITH CiEOtinAl'IIICAL AND

NAUTICAL OUSEItVATIONS.

Everything being in readiness to put to sea, at sunrise, on the KUh of September, we
weighed, and with a fine gale at E. by S., stood out for the same channel we came in by.
At half-past seven we were in the middle of it. Observatory Isle bore S. ."»' 10., distant
four miles, and the Isle of Balabea W.N.W. As soon as wo were clear of the reef, wo
hauled the wind on the starboard tack, with a view of plying in to the S.E. ; but as
Mr. (Silbert was of opinion that he had seen the end or N.W. e-xtremity of the land, and
that it would bo easier to get round by the N.W., I gave over plying, and bore u|) along
the outside of the reef, steering N.N.W., N.W., and N.W. by W. as it trended. At noon
the island of Balabea bore S. by W., distant thirteen miles ; and what we judged to be the
west end of the great land, bore S.W. { S. ; and the direction of the reef was N.W. by W. ;
latitude observed, 19" r».'V 20". Longitude from Observatory Isle, 14' W. We continued to
steer N.W. by W. along the outside of the reef till three o'clock, at which time the Isle of
Balabea bore S. by E. \ E. In this direction we observed a ])artition in the reef, which wo
judged to be a channel, by the strong tide which set out of it. Erom this i»lacc the reef
inclined to the north, for three or four leagues, and then to N.W. We followed its direction,
and as we advanced to N.W., raised more laud, which seemed to be connected with what
we had seen before ; so that iMr. (lilbert was mistaken, and did not see the extremity of tho
coast. At five o'clock this land bore W. by X. /, N., distant twenty miles ; but what wo
could sec of the reef trended in the direction of N.W. by N.

Having hauled the wind on the starboard tack, and spent the night plying, on the 14tli,
at sunrise, the island of Balabea bore S. (J' E., and the land seen the preceding night west ;
but the reef still trended N.W., along which we steered with a light breeze at E.S.K. At
noon wo observed in latitude ID" 2>{', longitude from Observatory Isle 27' W. We li.ad
now no sight of Balabea; and the other land, that is, the N.W. part of it, bore W. by
S. !r S. ; but we were not sure if this was one continued coast, or separate islands. Eor
though some partitions were seen, from sp.ice to space, which made it look like the latter,
a multitude of shoals rendered a nearer approach to it exceedingly dangerous, if not imjirac-
ticable. In the afternoon, with a fine breeze at E.S.E., we ranged the outside of these
shoals, which wo found to trend in the direction of N.AV. by W., N.W. by N., and N.N.E.
At tlireo o'clock we passed a low sandy isle, lying on the outer edge of the reef, in latitude
19" 2;"/, and in the direction of N.E. from tho north- westernmost land, six or seven leagues
distant. So much as wo could sec of this space was strewed with shoals, seemingly detached

j!!!;

'1^

1;!

ii'.M

COOK'S SKCOND VOYAGE ROUND TIIK \Vom<l>.

Skpt. 177«.

from carli otlicr ; ami tlio cliniincl Icnilinir in ainonffst tlicni iipprarod to lio on tlio S.E. side
of tin- sainly isle ; at liant tlnrc \va>* a spaci* wlii-iv tln> xi-a tliil not liivak. Atsnnsct, wo
foulil Init just SIT till' lanii, wliicli Ihh-c S. W. l)y S., alxmt ten Icaijucs tlistant. A i-lt'ar
Imii/.oii proiliic'i'il tlic discdvcry <•!' in>" laiul to tlif wtstwanl of tliis tlircction ; tlic rci-f, too,
t-.finlfil away \V. \>y N. ', N., and stcnicd to ti-miinatc in a point wliidi was sn-n from tlu<
nia-t-lii'ail. Tlius evcrytliinij consiiircd to niakf nw Itrlirvi- tliat we slionld Hoon jjct round
tlnsc slioals ; and witli tlii-xo flattering' rxpoctationa wo lianlfd tlie wind, wliidi wan at
K.N. I'!., and spent tlie ni;,'lit niaUin^r short Ijoartls.

Next morning', at !<\inrise, seein;,' neither iantl nor lireakers, wo bore away N.W. by \V„
and two hours after saw the reef extendini; N.W. farther than tho eye eotild readi ; hut no
land was to he seen. It was therefore prohahlu that wu had passed its N.W. extremity;
and, as we had seen froni tho hills of IKilade its extent to the y. W., it was neeessary to know
Jiow far it extended to the K. or S.K., whilo it was in our pi.wer to recover the eoast. For,
l»y followinjj the direction of tlu> shoals, we might have hern carried so far to le»'ward as not
to hi! aide to heat back without consiilerahio loss of time. AVu won< alri'ady far out of sinjlit
of land ; and tliero was no kiu)win<j how nnicli farther wo niislit be carried, before we found
an end to then>. These considerations, toi;i'ther with tho risk wo must run in ex|)loring
a sea strewed with shoals, and where no anchora;,'o, without them, is to be foimd, induced
ino to abamlon the design of proceediiifj round by the N.W., and to jdy up to tho S.E., in
which direction I knew there was a clear sea. With this view, we tacked anil stood to tho
S.I''., with the wiml at N.E. by K., a gentle brerzo. At tiiis time we wore in the latitude
of 1!)' 7' .S., longitude l(i3" '.7 K.

In standing to S.IC. we did but just weather the point of tho reef we had passed the
|)reccding evening. To make our situation tho more dangerous, tho wiml began to fail ns ;
and at throe in the afternoon it fell calm, and left us to tho mercy of a groat swell, setting
directly on tin; reef, which was hardly a league from us. We sounded, b>it fotind no bottom,
with a line of 20() fathonis. I ordered the pinnace and cutter to be hoisted ont to tow tho
ship ; but they were of little use against so groat a swell. Wo, however, found that tho
ship did not draw near the reef so fast as might be expected ; and at seven o'clock, a light
air at N.N.E. kept ! ' d to the sea ; but it lasted no longer than midnight, when it was
succeeded by a dead . At daybreak, on the Kith, wo had no sight of the reef; and at

eleven, a breeze sprii.^ . ^ ij) at S.S.W., we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to S.E. At
noon we observed in I5i' ;{;"» south, which was considerably more to the south than wo
expected, and showed that a current or tide had been in our favour all night, and accounted
for tiur getting so unexpectedly clear of the shoals. At two o'clock I'.M. we had again
a calm, which lasted till nine, when it was succeeded by a light air from E.N.E. and E.,
with which we advanced but slowly.

On the 17th, at noon, we observed in latitude 19' .'54', when the Isle of Dalabea boro S.
(JO^ W., ten and a half leagues distant. AVe continued to ply, with variable light winds,
between N.E. and S.E., without meeting with anything remarkable till the 2()th at noon,
when Cape Colnet bore N, 7^^" W., distant six leagues. From this capo the land extended
round by the south to E.S.IC. till it was lost in the horizon ; and the country ap])earcd with
many hills and valleys. Latitude observed 20° 41', longitude made from Observatory Islo
1° 8' E. We stood in-shore with a light breeze at east till sunset, when wo were between
two and three leagues off. The coast extended from S. 42" ^ E. to N. .09° W. Two small
islets lay without this last direction, distant from ns four or fivo miles ; some others lay
between us and the shore, and to the east, where they seemed to bo connected by reefs, in
which a)>peared some openings from space to space. Tho coimtry was mountainous, and
had much the same aspect as about Balade. On one of the western small isles was an eleva-
tion like a tower ; .and, over a low neck of land within the isle, were seen many other elevations
resembling tho masts of a fleet of ships. Next day, at sunrise, after having stood off all
night with a light breeze at S.E., wo fouiul ourselves about six leagnes from tho coast ; and
in this situation wo were kept by a calm till ten in tho evening, when we got a faint land-
breeze at S.W., with which wo steered S.E. .all night.

On the 22d, at sunrise, the land was clouded ; but it was not long before tho clouds went

Skpt. 1771.

;Iio S.R. flido
kt aiuiMi't, wo
^t. A clear
lie reef, too,
ten fntni tlio
iin j,'tt roiiiul

llicll WilR lit

.W. l.y W.,

iicli ; l>iit no
. (wtrcmity ;
iiiry to know
«'oast. For,
•Wiinl as not
out of Hi;j;lit
i>ro wc foiiiul
in cxjiloring
ind, induced
tlie S.E., in
atood to tlio
tlio latitude

1 passed the
n to fail ua ;
well, sottinjT
il no bottom,
t to tow tlio
md that tho
lock, a light
when it was
•oef ; and at
toS.E. At
th than wo
d accounted
had again
.E. and E.,

boa boro S.

iglit winda,

'Il at noon,

d extended

)eared with

vatoiy Isle

ro between

Two small

others lay

»y reefs, in

inous, and

a an eleva-

levationa

toodoffall

oast ; and

faint land-

ouds went

■

Sept. 1774.

COOK S SRCON'I) VOYACK llOtlNl) THE WOULD.

«aT

off, and wo found, by our land -mark", that we hail made a good ailvanre. At ten o'clock,
the lantl-breeze being succeetled by a seu-bree/c at I''., by S., this enabled us to sstand in fur
the lanil, which at noon extemlcil from N. 7'' ^^'. to S. 31 J ' I',, round by the snuth. In
this last direction the ciiit>t seemeil to trend more to tlie south in a lofty promontory, which,
on account of the day, received tlie name of ('a]ie Coronation. I.atitudi' -t2" l2', longitude
1(17" 7.V '■'• Some breakers lay bctwetii us and the shore, and probaltly they were coniucted
with those wt' hail seen before. During the niglit we had advaiued about two leagues to
S.i;. ; and at daybreak, on the 2!hl, an elevated i)oint apjuared in sight beyond Cape Coro-
nation, bearing S. lilt I',. It proved to be tlu^ S.I', extremity of the I'oast, ami obtained tho
name of Q.u-en Charlotte's Korcland. Latitude l22' Hi' S., longitude Hi7^ M' 1'. About
noon, having got a brei zo from the N.lv, we stood to S.S. I'., ami, as we drew towards Capo
('Oronation, saw, in a valley to the soutli of it, a vast number of tliose elevated objects before
mcntiom-d ; anil some low laud under the Foreland was wholly covered with them. Wo
could not agree in our opinions of what they were. I supposed them to be a singular sort of
trees, being too iiumerous to resemble anytliing else ; and a great deal of smoke kept rising
all the day from amongst those near the Cape. Our philosophers were of opinion that tliis
was the smoke of some internal and perpetual lire. My representing to them that there was
no smoke hen; in the morning, would have been of no avail, had not this eternal tire gone
out before night, and no more smoke been seen after. They were still more positive that the
elevations were pillars of basaltes, like those which compose the (liaiit's Causeway iu Ireland.
At sunset, the wind veering round to the south, we tacked and stood off, it not being safe to
approach the shore in the dark. At daybreak we stood in again, with a faint land-breeze
between E.S.F. and S.S.E. At noon observed in latitude 21" .'iD' :$(»", Cape Coronation
bearing west southerly, distant seven leagues, and the Foreland fS. MH" west. As we advanci d
to S.IS. W. the coast beyond the F<ireland began to apjiear in sight ; and, at sunset, we dis-
covered a low island lying S..S.K., about seven miles from the Foreland. It was one of those
which are generally surrounded with shoals and breakers. At the same time a round hill
was seen bearing S. 21^ 10., twt-lve leagues distant. During night, having had variable
light winds, we advanced but little either way.

On the G'Hh, about ten o'clock a.m., having got a fair breeze at E.S.E., we stood to S.S. W.,
in hopes of getting round the Foreland ; but, as wo drew near, we perciived more low isles
beyond the one already mentioned, which at last aj>peared to be connected by breakers,
extending towards the Foreland, nod seeming to join the shore. We stood on till half-past
three o'clock, when we saw, from the deck, rocks just pcejiing above the surface of the sea,
on tho shoal above mentioned. It was now time to alter the course, as the day was too far
spent to look for a ])assage near the shore, and we could find no bottom to anchor in during
the night. We, therefore, stood to the south, to look for a jiassage without the small isles.
AVe had a fine breeze at E.«S.E., but it lasted no longer than five o'clock, when it fell to a
dead calm. Having sounded, a line of I70 fathoms did not reach the bottom, though we
were but a little way from the shoals, wliicii, instead of following the coast to S.W., took a
S.E. direction towards the hill we had seen the preceding evening, and seemed to j)oiiit out
to us that it was necessary to go round that land. At this time the most advanceil jioint on
the main bore S. VAl° W., distant nine or ten leagues. About seven o'clock we got a light
breeze at north, which enabled us to steer out lO.S.E., and to spend the night with less
anxiety. On some of the low isles were many of those elevations already mentioned. lOvery
one was now satisfied they were trees, except our philosophers, who still nuiintained that they
were basaltes.

About daybreak, on the 20tb, the wind having shifted to S.S.W., we stretched to S.E. for
the hill before mentioned. It belonged to an island, which at noon extended from S. 1(5' E.
to S. 7" W,, distant six leajiues. Latitudt? observed 22" ](>' South. In the 1'..m. the wind
freshened, and, veering to S.S.E., we stretched to the east till two A..M. on the 27tli, when
wo tacked and stood to S.W. with hopes of weathering the island ; but we fell about two
miles short of our expectations, and had to tack about a mile from the east side of the island,
tho extremea bearing from N.W. by N. to S.W., the hill W., and some low isles, lying off
the S.E. point, S. by W. These seemed to be connected with tho largo island by breakers.

iii|i

COOK'S SECOND VOYAC.E ROI'ND THE WORLD.

Sept. 1774.

■ ) <i

Wo mtuntlcd wlion in stays, but lia<l no ^'roiinil wltli .% liiip of uiglity riitlioiiia. The nkirts of
tluH is liitxl wcro t'oviTcd witli tlio cIcv.itidnH inori- tlian oiicf nicntioiii-il. 'I'licy li,i<l iiiiicli tlio
apiH'iiranco nf tall jiincH, wliicli ociiisimn'il my giviiij; tliat iiiiiiic to tlie island. Tlio ntund
liill, wliieli is on tlio S. W. Hide, iii of such a lici^^lit an to liu wvn fourteen or !«i.xteen league;).
Tlie island is ahout a mile in eircuit, and situated in latitude 22' W 8., Ion:;itudo llij' '^^^'
East. Ilavinir nuidu two attempts to we.itlier the Isle of Pines heforo sunset, with no better
success tlian bifore, this dctermiiu'd nic to stretch oft' till midnight. This day, at noon, tlio
thermometer was at (>H,", which is lower than it had been since the 27th of F. bruary.

Having tacked at midnight, asai?»ted by the currents, anil a fresh i,'ale at K.S.K. and S.E,,
ne.\t morning, at daybreak, we found ourselves several li-agties to windward of the Isle of
I'ines, and bore away large, round the S.K. and south sides. The coast from the S.K,,
round by the south to the west, was strewed with sandbanks, breakers, and small low isles,
most of which were covered with the same lofty trees that ornaniunted the borders of tho
greater one. Wu continueil to range the outsiilo of these small isles and breakers, at three-
fourths of a league distance, and .is we passeil, i^ne raised another ; so that they seemi-d to
form a chain extiiuling to tho isles which lie off the Foreland. At noon we observed, in
latitude 22 11' lUi" S., the Isle of Tines, extending from N. by E. i E. to E. by N., and
Cape Coronation N. '.V2' '.W W., distant seventeen leagues. In the afternoon, with » fino
galo at K., we steireil .\.W. by \V. along the outside of the shoals, with a view of falling in
with the land a littii- to !!*.W. of the Foreland. At two oVlo;k P..M., two low islets were
seen bearing W. by S. ; and as they were connected by breakers, which seemed to join those
on our starboard, this discovery made it necessary to haul off S. V.'. in ctrder to get clear of
them all. At three, more breakers appe.ired, extending from the low isles towards the SS.E.
We now hauled out close to the wind, and in an hour and a half were almost on board tho
breakers, and obliged to tack. From the mast-head they were seen to extend as far as E.S.E.,
and the smoothness of the sea made it probable that they extended to tho north of cast, and
that we were in a manner surrounded by them. At this time the hill on the Isle of Pines
bore X. 71^.'' E-> the Foreland N. j W., and the most advanced point of land on the S.W.
coast bore N.W., distant fifteen or sixteen leagues. This direction of the S.W. coast, which
was rather within the parallel of tlic N.E., assured us that this land extended no farther to
the S.W. After making a short trip to N.N'.F., we stood again to the south, in expectation
of having a better view of the shoals before sunset. We gained nothing by this but tho
prospect of a sea strewed with slioals, which we could not clear but by returning in tho
track by which we came. We tacked nearly in the s.ime place where we had tacked before,
and on sounding found a bottom of fine sand. But anchoring in a strong gale, with a chain
of breakers to leeward, being the last resource, I rather chose to spend the night in making
short boards over that space we had, in some measure, made ourselves acquainted with in tho
day. And thus it was spent; but under the terrible api)reliension, every moment, of falling
on some of the many dangers which surrounded us.

Daylight showed that our fears were not ill-founded, and that wc had been in the most
imminent danger, having had breakers continually under our lee, and at a very little distance
from us. We owed our safety to the interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the
very brisk manner in which the ship was man.aged ; for, as we were standing to the north,
the people on the lee gangway and forecastle saw breakers under tho lee-bow, which wo
escaped by (juickly tacking the ship. I was now almost tired of a coast which I could no
longer explore but at the risk of losing the ship and ruining the whole voyage. I was,
however, determined not to leave it till I knew what trees those were which had been the
subject of our speculation ; especially as they appeared to be of a sort useful to shii)ping, and
had not been seen anywhere but in the southern part of this land. With this view, after
making a trip to the south, to weather the shoals under our Ice, wc stood to tho north, in
hopes of finding anchorage under some of the islets on which these trees grew. Wo wcro
stopped by eight o'clock by the shoals which lie extended between the isle of Pines and
Queen Charlotte's Foreland, and found soundings oft" them in fifty-five, forty, and thirty-six
fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. The nearer we came to these slioals, tho more wo saw of
them, and wc were not able to say if there was any passage between the two lands.

Sbpt. 1774.

Tlic skirts (if
lad iniu'li tliu

TIlO rnllllll

toon h-n^iK'H.
iidu 1»»7' 40'
itli no bottor

at nuon, tliu
liru.iry.
K. and S.K.,
>f tlio Isle of
m till) S,K.,
all low islos,
jrdors of tlio
LTs, at tliri'o-
ly sooniod to

olisorvod, in
. by N., and
, witii n fino

of falling in
ff islets wore
to join tlioso
> got cloar of
rds tlio S.E.
)n board tlio
irasE.S.E.,
of cast, and
Isle of Pinos
on tho S.W.
coast, which
10 fiirthor to

expectation
this but tho
ning in tho

:kod before,

rith a chain

in making

with in tho

;, of falling

in the most

tie distance

ut, and tho

the north,

which wo

I could no

I was,

id been tho

]>ping, and

view, after

10 north, in

We wore

Pines and

thirty-six

wo saw of

Us.

Sept. 1 77-1.

COOK'S SKrONI) VOVAC'.K ROI'M) TIIK WoUKD.

lU'inp now but a frw niilos ti> wimlward of tlio lnw islon lying oil" tho Koroland, montinnod
on tho li'ith anil J^'tli, I boro down to tho <iiir noxt to iih. As wo diow mar it, I jn iroivid
that it was niii'iiiioctod with tlio noi^liboiiiiiiL,' shii:ils, and that it i*< ]ii'iiliablo wo iiiii.'lit ;,'ot
to an aiiolior nndor its Iro or west side. Wo tlnii fnio Htnud mi, Ik inij oundiutid by an
oHioor at tho mast-lioad ; and aftvT hauling niiiiid ilio jxiiiit of tlio nof wliich rtiiiTMUiiiU tho
ihIo, we attoni]itod to jily tn windward, in onlor tn ;.'(t noaror tlio slntro. Anothor roof to
tho north oontiiiod us to a narrow cliannol, thri>iii.'li wliioli ran a onncnt :i;.'aiiist iis, that
rondorod this attonipt friiilloss ; so tliat wo wore obliirod to anolior in tliirty-nino f'atliniiH
water, tho bottom lino coral sand ; tho inlo boariiig W. by N., one mile liistant. As noipu
as tlii-* was (b)iio. wo hoisted out a boat, in whiili I wi iit ar<lioio, aooumpauiiil by tho
botanists. We found the tall trios to bo a kind of sjiriui' pino, vi'ry proiior I'nr ^'pars, of
which wc wore in want. Aftor inakiug tliis diHoovory, I liantonod on buaid in urdor to liavo
more time aftor dinner, when I laiidid ajiaiii with two boats aoooinpaiiiod by sovonil of tho
olhoors and giiitloiiion, bavin;; with us tho oarpontor and smno of his orow, to out down muIi
trot's as wore wanting. Whilo thin was doing, I took tho boariiigs of soviTal lands riMiiid.
The hill on the Islo of I'inos 1 ore S. i>\) 30' 10. ; the low |M)iui ttl" <^uoon ( 'liarli)tto's Fniolaiid,
N. 11 'MY west ; the iiigli land over it, soon over two low isKs, N, 20 wost ; and tho must
advanced i>oiiit i»f laud to the west, bore wost, half a jioiut sciuth, di.-taiit six or seven
li'agiios. Wc had, from several bearings, ascertained i!io irw diroetion i>f tho coast fnnii
tho Foreland to this |>oiut, which I shall distinguish by tin name of I'riiico uf Wahs's l-'ino-
land. It is situated in the latitude of 22' 2!)' S., iMiigiLmli; l(l(! ."»7' K., is of a onnsidorablo
lieight, and, when it first apfiears abovu the liori/.oii, l(iol<-4 like an island. I'Vom tiiis capo
the coast trended nearly N.W. This was rather too northerly a diroolion to join that jtart
which we saw from the hills of Kalade. Hut as it was v ry high land wliicii opened otV the
capo ill that direction, it is very probable tiiat lower land, which we could not see, opened
sooner; or olso tho coast more to the N.W. takes a more westerly diiectidu, in tho saiiio
manner as the N.!'. coast. He this as it may, wo juotly well know the extent of the laud,
by having it cuniinod within certain limits. However, 1 still entertained hopes of seeing
more of it ; but was disa))])ointcd.

The little isle tipon which we landed, is a more sandbank, not oxceeding throe-fourths of
a mile in circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grew the EUhi tree of Otalnite, and a
variety of other trees, shrubs, and ])lants. These gave sufficient ouiployment to our bota-
nists, all the time we staid upun it, and occasioned my calling it Kotany Islo. On it woro
several water-snakes, some pigeons and doves, seemingly dilVorent from any we had scon
Ono of the olfioors shot a hawk, which jirovcd to be of the very same sort as our Kuglish
fishing-hawks. Several fire-places, branches, and loaves very little doeayod, remains of
turtle, &c., showed that people had lately been on the isle. The hull of a canue, precisely
of the same shape as those we bad seen at Ital.ide, lay wrecked in the sand. We were now
no longer at a loss to know of what trios they make their canoes, as they can bo no otIuT
than those pines. On this little isle were sonu! which measured twenty inches dianioter,
and between sixty and seventy feet in length, and would have done very kvell for a fore-
mast to the Resolution, had one been wanting. Since trees of this size are to be found on
so small a s]iot, it is reasonable to ex]>eot to find some much larger on the main, and larger
isles ; and, if a)ipearances did not deceive us, we can assort it.

If I except New Zealand, I, at this time, know of no island in the South Pacific Ocean,
where a shij) could sujtjily herself with a mast or a yard, were she over so nnich distressed
for want of one. Thus far tho discovery is or may bo valuable. My carpenter, who was a
mast-maker as well as a sliip-wright, two trades he learnt in Dojitford-yard, was of ojiinion
that those trees would make exceedingly good masts. The wood is white, close-graiuod,
tough, and light. Turpoiitino had exuded out of most of the trees, and the sun bad insjiis-
sated it into a rosin, which was found sticking to the trunks, and lying about the roots.
These trees shoot out their branches like all oth'jr jiines ; with this difference, that tho
branches of these are nmch smaller and shorter ; so that the knots become nothiii'; when
tho tree is wrought for use. I took notice, that the largest of them had the smallest and
shortest branches, and were crowned, as it were, at the top, by a spreading branch like

640

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oct. 1774.

' !

•i^^::

<'i

<- 1

a bush. Tills was what led some on hoard Into the extravagant notion of their being baealtes:
indeed, no one could think of finding such trees here. The seeds are j)rodueetl in cones ;
but we could find none that had any in them, or that were in a proju'r state for vegetable
or botanical examination. Besides these, there was another tree or shrub of the spruce fir
kind ; but it was very small. Wt also found on the isle a sort of scurvy-grass, and a plant,
called by us Lamb's Quarters, which, when boiled, eat like spinach. Having got ten or
twelve small spars to make studding-sail booms, boata'-niasts, &c., and night approaching,
we returned with them on board.

The purpose for which I anchored under this isle being answered, I was now to consider
what was next to bo done. AVe had, from the topmast head, taken a view of the sea
around us, and observed the whole, to the west, to be strewed with small islets, sandbanks,
and breakers, to the utmost extent of our horizon. They seemed, indeed, not to be all
connected, and to be divided by winding channels. But when I considered, that the extent
of this S.W, coast was already pretty well determined ; the great risk attending a more
accurate survey, and the time it would require to accomplish it, on account of the many
dangers we should have to encounter ; I determined not to hazard the shij) down to leeward,
where we might be so heuuned in as to find it difficult to return, and by that means lose
the proper season for getting to the south. I now wished to have had the little vessel set
up, the frame of whicli we had on board. I had some thoughts of doing this when we were
last at Otaheite, but found it could not be executed, without neglecting the caulking and
other necessary repairs of the ship, or staying longer there than the route I had in view
would admit. It was now too late to begin setting her up, and then to usu her in exploring
this coast ; and in our voyage to tlie south, she could be of no service. These reasona
induced me to try to get without the shoals; that is, to the southward of them.

Next morning, at daybreak, we got under sail, with a light breeze at E. by N. We had
to make some trips to weather the shoals to leeward of Botany Isle ; but when this was
done, the breeze began to fail ; and at three P.M. it fell calm. The swell, assisted by the
current, set us fast to S.W. towards the breakers, which were yet in sight in that direction.
Thus we continued till ten o'clock, at which time a breeze springing up at N.N.W. we
steered E.S.E., the contrary course we had come in ; not daring to steer farther south till
dayliglit. At three o'clock next morning, the wind veered to S.W., blew hard, and ia
squalls, attended with rain, which made it necessary to proceed with our courses up, and
topsails on the cap, till daybreak, when the hill on the Isle of Pines bore N., and our dis-
tance from the shore in that direction was about four leagues. We had now a very strong
wind at S.S.AV., attended by a great sea, so that we had reason to rejoice at having got clear
of the shoals before this gale overtook us. Though everything conspired to make me think
this was the westerly monsoon, it can hardly be comprehended under that name, for several
reasons : first, because it was near a month too soon for these winds ; secondly, because we
know not if tliey reach this place at all ; and lastly, because it is very common for westerly
winds to blow within the tropics. However, I never found them to blow so hard before, or
so far southerly. Be these things as they may, we had now no other choice but to stretch
to S.E., which we accordingly did, with our starboard tacks aboard ; and at nooD were out
of sight of land.

The gale continued with very little alteration till noon next day; at which time we
observed in latitude 23° 18', longitude made from the Isle of Pines I" 54' east. In the
afternoon we had little wind from the south, and a great swell from the same direction ;
and many boobies, tropic, and lUen-of-war birds were seen. At eleven o'clock a fresh
breeze si)rung up at W. by S., with which we stood to the south. At this time we were
in the latitude of 23° 18', longitude 109" 49' E., and about fortv-two leagues south of the
Hebrides. At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 3rd, the wind veered to S. W., and blew
a strong gale by squalls, attended with rain. I now gave over all thought of returning to
the land we had left. Indeed, when I considered the vast ocean we had to explore to the
south ; the state and condition of the ship, already in want of some necessary stores ; that
summer was approaching fast ; and that any considerable accident might detain us in this
sea another year ; I did not think it advisable to attempt to regain the laud.

^mF

Oct. 1774.

cing hnsnltes:
ceil ill cones ;
for vegetable
tlie spruce fir
, ami a plant,
2f got ten or
approaching,

w to consider
;w of the sea
i, sandbanks,
lot to be all
at the extent
iding a more
of the many
II to leeward,
it means lose
:tlc vessel set
hen we were
caulking and
had in view
in exploring
i'hese reasons

k We had
lien this was
iisted by the
lat direction.
N.N.W. we
ler south till
lard, and in
rses up, and
and our dis-

very strong
ng got clear
ko me think
i, for several

because we
for westerly
rd before, or
it to stretch
on were out

cli time we
ast. In the
le direction ;
ock a fresh
me we were
south of the
'., and blow
returning to
:plore to the
itores ; that
in us in this

Oct. 1774.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

541

;. i

■i

Thus I was obliged, as it were by necessity, for the first time, to leave a coast I had
discovered, bs-fore it was fully explored. I called it New Caledonia ; and, if wc except
New Zealand, it is perhaps the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean ; for it extends
from the latitude of 111" HJ' to 22' 30 8.. and from the longitude of KW '^T to 1(57' 14' K.
It lies nearly N.W. | W., and S.E. \ E., and is about eighty-seven leagues long in that
direction ; but its breadth is not considerable, not anywhere exceeding ten leagues. It is a
country full of bills and valleys, of various extent both for height and dejith. To judge of
the whole by the parts we were on, from these hills sjiring vast numbers of little rivulets,
which greatly contribute to fertilise the plains, and to supply all th" wants of the inhabit-
ants. The suniiuits of most of the hills seem to bo barren ; tliougli some few arc clothed
with wood ; au are all the jilanes and valleys. By reason of these liiiia, many parts of the
coast, when at a distance from it, appeared indented, or to have great inlets between the
hills ; but when wc came near the shore, we always found such places shut up with low
land, and also observed low land to lie aong the coast between the sea-shore and the foot of
the hills. As this was the case in all such parts as wc came near enough to see, it is
reasonable to suppose that the whole coast is so. I am likewise of opinion, tliat the whole,
or greatest part, is surrounded by reefs or shoals, which render the access to it very
dangerous, but at the same time guard the coast from the violence of the wind and sea ;
make it abound with fish; secure an easy and safe navigation along it, for canoes, &c. and
most likely form some good harbours for shipping. 3Jost, if not every part of the coast is
inhabited, the Isle of Pines not excepted; for we saw either smoke by day, or fires by night,
wherever we came. In the extent which I have given to this island is included the broken
or unconnected lands to the N.W., as they are delineated in the chart. Tliat they may be
connected, I shall not pretend to deny ; wc were however of opinion that they were isles,
and that Now Caledonia terminated more to S.E., though this, at most, is but a well-
founded conjecture.

But whether these lands be separate isles, or connected with New Caledonia, it is by no
means certain that we saw their termination to the west. I think we did not, as the shoals
did not end with the land wc saw. but kept their N.W. direction farther than Bougainville's
track in the latitude of 15" or 15U\ Nay, it seems not improbable, that a cliain of isles,
sandbanks, and reefs may extend to the west, as far as the coast of New South Wales.
The eastern extent of the isles and shoals oflfthat coast, between the latitude of 1.')" and 2'.V,
were not known. The semblance of the two countries * ; Bougainville's meeting with the
shoal of Diana above sixty leagues from the coast, and the signs he had of land to the
S.E., all tend to increase the probability. I must confess that it is carrying probability and
conjecture a little too far, to say what may lie in a space of two hundred leagues ; but it is
in some measure necessary, were it only to put some future navigator on his guard.

Mr. Wales determined the longitude of that part of New Caledonia we explored, by
ninety-six sets of observations, which were reduced to one another by our trusty guide the
watch. I found the variation of the compass to be 10° 24' E. This is the mean variation
given by the three azimuth compasses we had on board, which would differ from each other
a degree and a half, and sometimes nior;. I did uot observe any difference in the variation
between the N.W. and S.E. parts of this land, except when we were at anchor before Baladc,
where it was less than 10'; but this I did not regard, as I found such a uniformity out at
sea ; and it is there where navigators want to know the variation. While wc were on the
N.E. coast, I thought the currents set to S.E. and W. or N.W. on the other side; but they
are by no i^eans considerable, and may as probably be channels of tides as regular currents.
In the narrow channels which divide the shoals, and those which communicate with the sea,
the tides run strong ; but their rise and fall arc inconsiderable, not exceeding three feet and
a half. The time of high- water, at the full and change, at Bulade, is about six o'clock; but
at Botany I&le we judged it would happen about ten or eleven o'clock.

• Sec his Voyage, English translation, p. 303.

1 it

!.i

-t!

642

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLD.

Oct. 1774.

■|

III

CHAPTER XI. SEQUEL OP THE PASSAGE PROM NEW CALEDONIA TO NEW ZEALAND, WITH

AN ACCOUNT OP TlIK DISCOVERY OP NORFOLK ISLAND, AND THE INCIDENTS THAT
HAPPENED WHILE THE SHIP LAY IN QUEEN CIIARLOTTe's .SOUND.

The wind continuing at S.W., "W.S.W., and W., blowing a frcsli gale, and now and
tlicn squalls, with showers of rain, we steered to S.S.E., without meeting with any rcniarkablo
occurrence till near noon on the fith, when it fell calm. At this time we were in the
latitude of 27^ 50' S., longitude 171° 4:V E. The calm continued till noon the next day,
during which time we observed tiie variation to be 10^ .SIJ.V' E. I now ordi'red the
carpenters to work to caulk the decks. As we had neither jiitcli, tar, nor rosin left to pay
the seams, this was done with varnish of pine, and afterwards covered with coral sand, which
made a cement far exceeding my expectation. In the afternoon we had a boat in the
water, and shot two albatrosses, which were geese to us. We had seen one of this kind of
birds the d.ay before, which was the first we observed since we had been within the tropic.
On the 7th, at one p..m., a breeze sprang up at south ; soon after it veered to, and fixed at
S.E. by S., and blew a gentle gale, attended with pleasant weather.

"We stretched to W.S.W. , and next day at noon were in the latitude of 28° 25', longitude
1 70° 2()' E. In the evening, ]Mr. Cooper having struck a porpoise with a harpoon, it was
necessary to bring to, and have two boats out, before we could kill it, and get it on board. It was
six feet long ; a female of that kind which
naturalists call dolphin of the ancients,
and which differs from the other kind of
porpoise in the head and jaw, having them
long and pointed. This had eighty-eight
teetli in each jaw. The haslet * and lean
flesh were to us a feast. The latter was
a little liverish, but had not the least
fishy taste. It was eaten roasted, broiled,
and fried, first soaking it in warm water.
Indeed, little art was wanting to make
anything fresh palatable to those who had
been living so long on salt meat.

We continued to stretch to W.S.W. till
the 10th, when, at daybreak, we dis-
covered land bearing S.W., which on a
nearer approach we found to be an island
of good height, and five leagues in circuit.
I named it Norfolk Isle, in honour of the
noble family of Howard. It is situated
in the latitude of 2{)" 2' 30" S., and lon-
gitude 1(>8° 16' E. The latter was deter-
mined by lunar observations made on this,
the preceding, and following days ; and
the former, by a good observation at noon,
when we were about three miles from the
isle. Soon after we discovered the isle, we
sounded in twenty- two fathoms on a bank
of coral sand ; after this we continued to
sound, and found not less than twenty-two,
or more than twenty-four fathoms (except
near the shore), and the same bottom mixed

with broken shells. After dinner, a narty of us embarked in two boats, and landed
on the island, without any difficulty, behind some large rocks which lined part of the coast

* The in'ornal pr.'-ts, liver, lungs, &c.

NUHFOLK I8LANU PINK.

Oct. 1774.

LAND, WITH
ENTS THAT

(1 now and
reinarkablo
were in tlio
; next day,
)rd<'red tlio
left to pay
sand, which
)oat in the
liis kind of
the tropic.
>nd fixed at

', longitude
oon, it was
ird. It was

landed
lie coast

Oct. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

543

on the N.E. side. We found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly the first that ever set
foot on it. Wc observed many trees and plants common at New Zealand ; and in particu-
lar, the flax-plant, which is rather more luxuriant lierc than in any jiart of that country :
but the chief produce is a sort of spruce pine, which grows in great abundance, and to a
largo size, many of the trees being as thick, breast-liigh, as two men could fathom, and exceed •
ingly straight and tall. This pine is of a sort between that which grows in New Zealand
and that in New Caledonia ; the foliage differing something from both ; and the wood not
so heavy as the former, nor so light and close-grained as the latter. It is a good deal
like the Quebec pine. For about two hundred yards from the sliore the ground is covered
80 thick with shrubs and plants, as hardly to be ])enetrated farther inland. The woods were
perfectly clear and free from underwood, and tlic soil seemed rich and deep.

We found the same kind of pigeons, parrots, and j)arrofjuets as in New Zealand, rails, and
some small birds. The sea-fowl are, white boobies, gulls, tern, &e. which breed undisturbed
on the shores, and in the cliflFs of the rocks. On the isle is fresh water ; and cabbage-])alm,
wood sorrel, sow-thistle, and sampiiirc abouwding in some places on the shores : we brought
on board as much of each sort as the time we had to gather them would admit. These
cabbage-trees, or palms, were not thicker than a man's leg, and from ten to twenty feet high.
They arc of the same genus with the cocoa-nut tree ; like it, they have large pinnated leaves,
and arc the same as the second sort found in the northern parts of New South Wales *. The
cabbage is, properly speaking, the bud of the tree ; each tree producing but one cabbage, which
is at the crown, where the leaves spring out, and is inclosed in the stem. The cutting off tho
cabbage effcctuaiiy destroys the tree ; so that no more than one can be had from the same stem.
The cocoa-nut tree, and some others of the palm kind, produce cabbage as well as these. This
vegetable is not only wholesome, but exceedingly palatable, and proved the most agreeable
repast we had for some time.

Tho coast does not want fish. While we were on shore, the people in the boats caught
some which were excellent. I judged that it waj high water at the full and cha:igc, about
one o'clock, and that the tide rises and falls upon a perpendicular about four jr five feet.
The approach of night brought us all on board, when we hoisted in the boats ; aiii^ stretching
to E.N.E. (with the wind at S.E.) till midnight, we tacked and spent the remainder of tho
night making short boards.

Next morning, at sunrise, we made sail, stretching to S.S.W., and weathered the island,
on the south side of which lie two isles, that serve as roosting and breeding places for birds.
On this, as also on the S.E. side, is a sandy beach ; whereas most of the other shores are
bounded by rocky cliffs which have twenty and eighteen fathoms water < ' >' to them ; at
least so we found it on the N.E. side, and with good anchorage. A bank of coral sand,
mixed with shells, on which wc found from nineteen to thirty-five or forty fathoms water,
surrounds the isle, and extends, especially to the south, seven leagues off. The morning wc
discovered the island, the variation was found to be 13° 9' E. ; but I think this observation gave
too much, as others, which we had, both before and after, gave 2° less. After leaving Norfolk
Isle, I steered for New Zealand, my intention being to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, to
refresh my crew, and put tho ship in a condition to encounter the southern latitudes.

On the 1 7th, at daybreak, we saw Mount Egmont, which was covered with everlasting
snow, bearing S.E. |, E. Our distance from the shore was about eight leagues ; and on
sounding, wc found seventy fathoms water, a muddy bottom. The wind soon fixed in the
western board, and L.cw a fresh gale, with which we steered S.S.E. for Queen Charlotte's
Sound, with a view of falling in with Cape Stephens. At noon Cape Egmont bore E.N.E.
distant three or four leagues ; and though the mount was hid in the clouds, we judged
it to be in the same direction as the Cape ; latitude observed, 39' 24'. The wind increased
in such a manner as to oblige us to close-reef our topsails, and strike to})-gallant yards. At
last we could bear no more sail than the two courses, and two close-reefed topsails ; and
under them we stretched for Capo Stephens, which we made at eleven o'clock at night. At
midnight we tacked and made a trip to the north till three o'clock next morning, when we
bore away for the Sound. At nine we hauled round Point Jackson, through a sea which
looked terrible, occasioned by a rapid tide and a ligh wind ; but as we knew the coast, it

• I'i'k Hawkcsffoitli'a Vujdirc?, vul, iii.

'ir

!.■ ;

•

■ )

544

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

Oct. 1774.

ij}i

did not .ilartn us. At cloven o'clock" wc anchored before Siiip Cove ; the strong flurries
from off the land not permittinr; us tu got in.

In the afternoon, as wc could not move the ship, I went into the cove, with the seine, to try
to catch some Ash. The first thing I did after landing was to look for the bottle I left hid
when last here, in which was the nienioranduin. It was taken away ; but by whom it did
not appear. Two hauls with the seine producing only four small fish, we in some ir'^asure
made up for this deficiency by shooting several birds, which the flowers in the garden nud
drawn thither, as also some old shags, and by robbing the nests of some young ones. Being
little wind next morning, we weighed, and warped the ship into the Cove, and there moored
with the two bowers. We unbent the sails to repair them, several having been split, and
otherwise damaged in the late gale. The main and fore courses, already worn to the very
utmost, were condemned as useless. I ordered the topmasts to be struck and unrigged, in
order to fix to them moveable chocks or knees, for want of which the trestle-trees were con-
tinually breaking ; the forge to be set up to make bolts and repair our iron-work ; and tents
to be erected on shore for the reception of a guard, coopers, sail-makeis, &e. I likewise
gave orders that vegetables (of which there were plenty) should be boiled every morning
with oatmeal and portable broth for breakfast, and with peas and broth every day for dinner
for the whole crew, over and above their usual allowance of salt meat.

In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales was setting up his observatory, he discovered that several
trees, which were standing when we last sailed from this i)lace, had been cut down with
saws and axes ; and a few days after, the place where an observatory, clock, &c., had been
sot up, was also found in a spot diflV-rent from that where Mr. AV^ales had placed his. It
was therefore now no longer to be doubted that the Adventure had been in this cove after
we had left it.

Next day, winds southerly, hazy cloudy weather. Everybody went to work at their
respective employments, one of which was to caulk the ship's sides, a thing much wanted.
Tii0tocams were payed with J)utty, made with cook's fat and chalk ; the gunner happening
to have a quantity of the latter on board. The 21st, wind southerly, with continual rains.
The weather being fair in the afternoon of the 22d, accompanied by the botanists, I visited
our gardens on Motuara, wliich we found almost in a state of nature, having been wholly
neglected by the inhabitants. Nevertheless, many articles were in a flourishing condition,
and showed how well they liked the soil in which they were planted. None of the natives
having yet made their appearance, we made a fire on the point of the island, in hopes, if
they saw the smoke, they might be induced to come to us.

Nothing remarkable I'-^-ppened till the 24th, when, in the morning, two canoes were seen
coming down the Sound ; but as soon as they perceived the ship, they retired behind a point
on the west side. After breakfiist I went in a boat to look for them ; and as we proceeded
along the shore, wo shot several birds. The report of the muskets gave notice of our
approach, and the natives discovered themselves in Shag Cove by hallooing to us ; but as
we drew near to their habitations, they all fled to the woods, except two or three men, who
stood on a rising ground near the shore, with their arms in their hands. The moment
wc landed, they knew us. Joy then took place of fear, and the rest of the natives
hurried out of the woods, and embraced us over and over again, leaping and skipping
about like madmen ; but I observed that tney would not sufier some women, whom we saw
at a distance, to come near us. After wc had made them presents of hatchets, knives, and
what else we had with us, they gave us in return a large quantity of fish, which they had
just caught. There were only a few amongst them whose faces we could recognise ; and on
our asking why they were afraid of us, and inquiring for some of our old acquaintances by
name, they talked much about killing, which was so variously understood by us, th.at we
could gather nothing from it ; so that, after a short stay, we took leave, and went on board.
Next morning early, our friends, according to a promise they made us the preceding evening,
paying us a visit, brought with them a quantity of fine fish, which they exchanged for
Otaheitean cloth, &c., and then returned to their habitations.

On the 26th, we got into the after-hold four b^at-load of shingle ballast, and struck down
six guns, keeping only six on deck. Our good friends the natives having brought us a

r»

Oct. 1774.

>ng flurries

3einp, to try
c I left hid
'lioin it did
ic n^f^asiire
garden iiud
les. Being
ere moored

split, and
o the very
nrigged, in
i were eon-
; and tents

I likewise
ry morning
' for dinner

hat several
down with
., had been
>d his. It
i cove after

'k at their
ch wanted;
' happening
inual rains.
iS, I visited
een wholly
condition,
the natives
n hopes, if

were seen

nd a point

proceeded

ce of our

IS ; but as

men, who

moment

e natives

skipping

n we saw

nives, and

they had

; and on

tances by

, that wo

on board.

evening,

iingcd for

Lick down
ight us a

Nov. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

■.4">

plentiful sujiply of fish, afterwards wont on shore to tlie tents, and informed our pooi)lc there
that a ship like ours had been lately lost in the iStrait ; that some of the people gitt on shore,
and that the natives stole their clothes &c., for which several were shot ; that afterwards,
when they could fire no longer, the natives having got the better, killed them with their
Putapatoos, and ate them ; but that they themselves had no hand in the aflair, which, they
said, happened at Vanna Aroa, near Teerawhitte, on the other side of the Strait. < >nc man
said it was two moons ago ; but another contradicted him, and counted on his lingers about
twenty or thirty days. They described by actions how the ship was beat to pieces, by going
up and down against the rocks, till at last it was all s-ciitti-reil nbroad.

The next day some others told the same story, or nearly ti> the san»e ])urp(>rt, and pointi'd
over the East Hiiy, which is on the east side of the sound, as to the jdace wlieri- it hap]>ened.
These stories making me very uneasy abnut the Advcntun". I ih>ire<l Mr. Wales, anil those
on shore, to let me know if any of the natives should mention it again, or to send them to
mo; for I had not heard anything from them myself. When Mr. Wales came on board to
dinner, he found the very p(;ople who had told him the story on shore, and ]>oiuted them out
to me. I inquired about the affn.ir, and endeavoured to come at the truth by every method
I could think of. All I could get from them was, Caunif (no) ; and they not only denied
every syllabl'j of what they had said on shore, but seemed wliolly ijinorant of the matter ; so
that I began to think our peojde had misunderstood them, and tliiit the story referred to some
of their own i)coi)lo and boats.

On the 28th, fresh gales westerly, and fair weather. We riygel and fitted the topmasts.
Having gone on a shooting-party to West Bay, we went to the place where I left the ho;j:s
and fowls ; but saw no vestiges of them, nor of anybody having been there since. In our
return, having visited the natives, we got some fish in exchange fr)r trilles wiiieh we gave
them. As wc were coming away, Mr. Forster thought he heard the squeaking of a jiig in
the woods, close by their habitations j j)robal)ly they may have those I left with them when
last here. In the evening wc got on board, with about a dozen and a half of wild-fowl,
shags, and sea-pies. The sportsmen who had been out in the woods near the ship were
more successful among the small birds.

On the 29th and 30th nothing remarkable happened, except that in the evening of tho
latter all the natives left ns. The .'ilst being a fine j)leasant day, our botanists went over to
Long Island, where one of the party saw a large black boar. As it was described to me, I
thought it to be one of those which Ca])tain Furneaux left behind, and had been brought
over to this isle by those who had it in kecjiing. Since they did not destroy those hogs
when first in their possession, we cannot snpi)ose they will do it now ; so that there is little
fear but that this country will, in time, be stocked with these animals, both in a wild and
domestic state. Next day we were visited by a nuniber of strangers, who came from up the
sound, and brought with them but little fish. Their chief commodity was green stone or
talc, an article which never came to a bad market ; and some of the largest pieces of it I had
ever seen were got this day.

On the 2d I went over to the cast side of the sound, and, without meeting anything
remarkable, returned on board in the evening, when I learnt that the same peoj)le who
visited us the preceding day had been on board most of this, with their usual article of
'j. On the 3d, Mr. Pickersgill met with some of the natives, who related to him the
story of a shij) being lost, and the peoj)le being killed ; but added, with great earnestness, it
was not done by them. On the 4th, fine pleasant weather. Most of the natives now
retired up the sound. Indeed, I had taken every gentle metliod to oblige them to be gone ;
for since these new-comers had been with us, our old friends had disappeared, and we had
been without fish. Having gone over to Long Island to look for the hog which had been
seen there, 1 found it to be one of the sows h-ft by Captain Furneaux ; the same that was in
possession of the natives when we were last here. From a sup|>osition of its being a boar, I
had carried over a sow to leave with him ; but on seeing my mistake, brought her back, as
the leaving her there would answer no end.

Karly in the morning of the fith, our old friends made us a visit, and brought a seasonable
supply of fish. At tho same time, I embarked in the ]>innace with Messrs. Forstcrs and

N N

046

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

Nov. 1774.

Spamnan, in order to proccptl up the sound. I was desirous of finding the termination
of it, or rathor of seeing if I could find any passage out to sea l>y the i^.E,, as I suspected
from some discoveries I had made wlicn first here. In our way up wo mot witli some
fishers, of whom wc made the nrcessary inquiry ; .and they all agreed that there was no
passage to sea hy the head of the sound. As we proceeded, wo some time after met a
canoe, conducted hy four men, coming down the sound. These confirmed what the others
had said, in regard to there being no passage to sea the way we were going ; but gave us to
understand that there was one to the cast, in the very place where I expected to find it. I
now laid aside the scheme of going to the head of the sound, and proceeded to this arm,
which is on the S.E. side, about four or five leagues above the Isle of Motuara.

A little within the entrance on the S.E. side, at a place called Kotieghenooce, we found a
largo settlement of the natives. The chief, whose name was Tringo-boohec, and his people,
whom we found to be some of those who had lately been on board the ship, received us with
great courtesy. They seemed to be pretty numerous, both here and in the neighbourhood.
Our stay with them was short, as the information they gave us encouraged us to ])ursuc the
object we had in view. Accordingly, wc proceeded down the .arm E.N.E. and E. by N.,
leaving several fine coves on both sides, and at last found it to open into the strait by a
channel about a mile wide, in which r.in out a strong tide ; having also observed one setting
down the .arm, .all the time we had been in i*. It was now .about four o'clock in the after-
noon ; and in less th.an an hour after, this tide ceased, and was succeeded by the flood,
which came in with equal strength.

The outlet lies S.E. by E., and N.W. by W., and nearly in the direction of E.S.E., and
W.N.W. from Cape Teenawhitte, 'We found thirteen fathoms w.ater a little within tho
cntrjinee, clear round. It seemed to me that a leading wind was necessary to go in and out
of this passjigc, on account of the rapidity of the tides. I, however, had but little time to
ni.ake observations of this nature, as night was at hand, and I had resolved to return on
board. On that accounl, I omitted visiting a largo hippa, or stronghold, b"iH on an eleva-
tion on the north side, and .about a milo or two within the entnancc. The inliabitants of it,
by signs, invited us to g;t to them ; but, without paying .any regard to them, we proceeded
directly for the ship, which wc reached by ten o'clock, bringing with us some fish we had
got from the natives, .and a few birds we had shot. Amongst the latter, were some of tho
same kind of ducks wc found in Dusky n.ay ; and we have reason to believe that they are
all to bo met with here ; for the natives knew them all by the drawings, and had a p.articu1ar
n.amc for each.

On the 6th, wind .at N.E., gloomy weather with rain. Our old friends having t.akcn up
their abode near us, one of them, whose name wjis Pedero, (a man of some note,) made me
a present of a staff of honour, such as the chiefs generally carry. In return, I dressed him
in a suit of old clothes, of which he was not a little proud. He had a fine person and a
good presence ; and nothing but his colour distinguished him from a European. Having
got him and another into a communicative mood, we bogjin to inquire of them if the Adven-
ture hiid been there during my .absence, and they gave us to understand, in a manner tluat
admitted of no doubt, th.at soon after wc were gone she arrived, that she staid between ten
.and twenty djiys, .and h.ad been gone ten months. They likewise asserted, that neither she
nor any other ship had been stranded on the co.ast, as had been reported. This .assertion,
and the manner in which they related the coming .and going of the Adventure, made me
easy about her ; but did not wholly set aside our suspicions of a dististcr luaving happened to
some other strtingers. IJcsides what has been already rebated, we had been told tluat a ship
h.ad lately been here, and was gone to a pl.ace called Terato, which is on the north side of
tho Strait. Whether this story rel.atcd to the former or not, I cannot say. Wlienevcr I
questioned the natives about it, thoy .always denied .all knowledge of it; and for some time
p.ast had .avoided mentioning it. It was but a few d-ays before, th.at one man received a box
on the ear for naming it to some of our people. After breakfiist, I took a number of hands
over to Long-Island, in order to catch the sow, to put her to the bo.ar, and remove her to
some other place ; but we returned without seeing her. Some of the natives had been there
not long before us, .as their fires were yet burning ; and they had undoubtedly taken her

Nov. 1774.

I termination
s I susipectcd
!t witii some
there was no
after met a
at tlie otliers
lit ^avc us to
to find it. I
1 to tltia arm,

!, we found a
d his people,
(ived us with
iglibourhood.
to ])nrsuo the
™d E. by N.,
le strait by a
d one setting
in the after-
)y the flood,

E.S.E., and
c witliin the
ro in and out
little time to
to return on

on an cleva-
bitants of it,
we proceeded

fish wc had

some of the
that they are
i a p.irticular

ng taken up
c,) made me
dressed him
lerson and a
n. Having
the Adven-
manner that
between ten
; neitlier she
lis assertion,
•e, made me
happened to
that a sliip
lorth side of
Whenever I
r some time
eived a box
jer of 1 lands
move her to
I been there
y taken her

Nov. 1774.

COOK'S Si:co\D VOYAGE llOUNU Til'- WOULD.

ii7

away. Pedcro dined with us, ate of everything at table, and drank more wine than any
one of us, without being in the least aflocted by it.

The 7tli, fresli gales at X.E. with continual rain. The lUli, fore-part rain, remainder
fair weather. We juit two pigs, a boar and a sow, on ^hoiv, in the cove next without
Cannibal Cove ; so that it is hanlly possible all the uietliods I have taken to stock tiiis
country with these animals should fail. We had also rea^iou to believe that some of the
cocks and hens which I left here still existed, althougli we had not seen any of tlicni ; for
a hen's egg was, some days before, found in the woods almost new laid.

On the 9th, wind westerly or N.W. s(|ually, w ith rain. In the morning we unmoored,
and shifted our berth farther out of the cove, for the more reatly getting to sea the next
morning ; for, at present, the caulkers had not finished the sides, and till this work was done
we could not sail. Our friends having brought us a very large and seasonable supply of
fish, I bestowed on Pedcro a present of an emi>ty oil-jar, which made him as hapjjy as a
prince. Soon after, he and his party left the cove, and retired to their i)roper jjlace of abode,
with all the treasure they had received from us. I believe that they gave away many of
the things they, at different times, got from us, to their friends, and neighbours, or else
parted with them to ])urcliase peace of their more i>owerfiil enemies ; for we never saw any
of our ](reseuts after they were once in their i)osses8ion ; and every time wc visited them they
were as much in want of hatchets, nails, &c. to all appearance, as if they never had had any
among them.

I am satisfied that the people in this Sound, who are upon the whole pretty numerous,
arc under no regular form of government, or so united as to form one body ixilitic. Tho
head of each tribe, or family, seems to be respected ; and that respect may, on some occa-
sions, command obedience; but I douljt if any amongst them have either a right or power to
enforce it. The day wc were with TriugD-boohee, the jieoplo came from all parts to sec us,
which he endeavoured to i)reveiit. But though he went so far as to throw stones at some,
I observed that very few jiaid any regard either to his words or actions ; and yet this man
was spoken of as a chief of some note. I have, before, made some remarks on the evils
attending these people for want of union among themselves ; and the more I was acciuaiuted
with them, the more I ftmnd it to be so. Notwithstanding they are cannibals, they arc
naturally of a good disposition, and have not a little humanity.

In the afternoon a party of us went ashore into one of the coves, where were two families
of the natives variously employed ; some sleejiing, some making mats, others roasting fish
and fir roots, and one girl, I observed, was heating of stones. Curious to know what they
were for, I remained near her. As soon as the stones were made hot, she took them out of
the fire, and gave them to an old woman, who was sitting in the hut. S/ie ])laced them in
a heap, laid over them a handful of green celery, and over that a coarse mat, and then
squatted herself down, on her heels, on the top of all ; tlins making a kind of Dutch
warming-pan, on which she sat as close as a hare on her seat, I should hardly have men-
tioned this operation, if I had thought it had no other view than to warm the old woman's
backside. I rather suppose it was intended to cure some disorder she might have on her,
which the steams arising from the green celery might be a specific for, I was led to think
so by there being hardly any celery in the place, we having gathered it long before ; and
grass, of which there was great plenty, would have kept the stones from burning the mat full
as well, if that had been all that was meant, Uesides, the woman looked to me sickly, and
not in a good state of health.

Jlr. Wales from time to time communicated to nic the observations he had made in this
sound for determining the longitude, the mean results of which give 17-t^ 2'/ 7" jr E, for
the bottom of Ship Cove, where the observations were made ; and the latitude of it is
41° a' ;"»(>" 4, S, In my chart, constituted in my former voyage, this place is laid down in
liW .54' no"" West, equal to 17')= 5' yO" E, The error of the chart is therefore (P 40' (►'',
and nearly equal to what was found at Dusky Bay ; by which it appears that the whole of
Tavaipoenanimoo is laid down 40' too far east in the said chart, as well as in the journal of the
voyage. But the error in Eaheino-mauwe is not more than half a degree, or thirty minutes ;
because the distance between Queen Charlotte's Sound and Cape Paliiser has been fiuiud to

nn2

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE AVORLI».

Nov. 1774.

be ;iTx?at«T l»y 10' of lonpitiKlc tlian it 13 \n\i\ do\sn in tliccliart. I tnontion tlicsc errors, not
frir"ai a fi-ar tlmt tlu'V will aftVct I'itliiT navigation or gL-ojirapliy, but Localise 1 liavo no doubt
of th<-ir i-xistvnct' ; for, from tlic nuiUitiido of observations wliidi Mr. Walrs took, tlie situa-
ti«>n of ftw parts of the world is bitter ascertained than Queen Charlotte's Soun<l. Indeed,
I mi^t. witli equal truth, say the same of nil the other places where we made any stay ;
f-jr Mr. Wales, whose abilities arc equal to his assiduity, lost no one observation that could
p«is>ibly be obtained. Even thit situation of those islands whiuh wc passed without touching
at them, is, by means of Kendal's watch, determined with almost equal accuracy. The
error of tlic watch from Otaheito to this place was only 43' 39" j in longitude, reckoning at
the rate it was found to go at, at that island and at Tanna ; but by reckoning at the rate it
vas going when last at Queen Charlotte's Sound, and from the time of our leaving it, to
oar ntum to it again, which was near a year, the error was 19' 31", 25 in time, or
4" 5^ 48" 3 in longitude. This error cannot be thought great, if we consider the length of
time, and that we liad gone over a space equal to upwards of three-fourtlis of the equatorial
circnmferenoe of the earth, and through all the cliniatos and latitudes from 9° to 71". ^I'»
Wales found its rate of going here f) be that of gaining 12", r)7<>, on mean time, per day.

The mean result of all the obsei .itions he made for ascertaining the variation of the
cir>mpa!!« and the dip of the south end of the needle, the three several times we had been here,
gai-e 14- 9 4- E. for the former, and (54° 30" y for the latter. He also found, from very
accurate observations, that the time of high-water preceded the moon's southing, on the full
and change -lays, by throe hours ; and that the greatest rise and fall of the water was five
Ceet ten inches and a lialf ; but there were evident tokens on the beach of its having risen two
feet hi^er tlian it ever did in the course of his experiments.

BOOK IV.

FROM LFAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR RETURN TO ENGLAND.

CDJIPTEB I. TOE BUN FROM NEW ZEALAND TO TERRA DEL FUEOO, WITH THE RANGE FRO.M

CAPE DESEADA TO CURISTMAS SOUND, AND DESCRIPTION OF THAT PART OF THE COAST.

At daybreak on the 10th, with a fine breeze at W.N. W., we weighed and stood out of
the Sound ; and, after getting round the Two Brothers, steered for Cape Campbell, which
is at the S.W. entrance of the strait, all sails set, with a line breeze at north. At four in
the afu'moon, we passed the Cape, at the distance of four or five leagues, and then steered
S.S.E. ^ E., with the wind at N.W., a gentle gale, and cloudy weather. Ne.\t morning,
the wind veered round by the west to south, and forced us more to the east than I intended.
At «even o'clock in the evening, the snowy mountains bore W. by S., and Cape Palliser
N. i W., distant sixteen or seventeen leagues ; from which cape, I, for the third time, took
my departure. After a few hours' calm, a breeze springing up at north, we steered
S. by E. all sails set, with a view of getting into the latitude of 04" or 55"; my intention
bein^ to crost> this vast ocean nearly in these parallels, and so as to pass over those parts
which were left unexplored the preceding summer.

In the morning of the 12th, the wind increased to a fine gale : at noon we observed in
latitade 43' 13' 3(>'' S., longitude 176" 41' E. An extraordinary fish of the whale kind was
see:;, which stome called a sea-monster : I did not see it myself. In the afternoon, our old
contp<ani'cm« the pintado peterels began to appear. On the 13th, in the morning, the wind
veentd to W.S.W. At seven, seeing the appearance of land to the S.W., we hauled up
towards it, and soon found it to be a fog-bank. Afterwards we steered S.E. by S., and
soon after saw a seal. At noon, latitude, by account, 44" 25', longitude 177° 31' E. Foggy
weather, wliich continued all the afternoon. At six in the evening, the wind veered to
N.E. br X., and increased to a fresh gale, attended with thick hazy weather; course steered
E . E. i S.

Nov. 1774-

Nov. 1774.

(BOOK'S SECOND VOYAGK ROUND THE W'OHIJ).

5 1!>

errors, not
> no (lonl)t
, tlie sitna-
. Iiuk-cd,

any stay ;

tliat could
it touching
•acy. Tlio
^ckoning at

the rate it
bving it, to
n time, or
ic length of
I equatorial

71 ^ Mr.

per day.
ion of the
[ been here,

from very

on the full
er was five
g risen two

kNCE FKOM
COAST.

tood out of

)ell, which

At four in

len steered

morning,

intended.

)e Palliscr

time, took

re steered

.' intention

lose parts

)served in
kind was
n, our old
the wind
hauled up
)y S., and
Foggy
veered to
ae steered

On the 14th a.m. saw anotlier seal. At noon, latitude 4.V' ')4', longitude 17!)" 20' K.
On the I'lth am, the wind veered to the westward ; the foi; elearcd away, l)ut the weather
continued cloudy. At noon, latitude 4'J'l\{)\ longitmlo 17^' 10 W.; for, liavin;» passml
the meridian of IHO K., I now reckon my longitude west of the first nieriilian, viz..,
Greenwich. In the evening heard penguins, and, the next morning, saw some sea or roek
weed. At noon a fresh gale from the west, and fine weatiier. Latitude observed ID" 3.'<',
longitude 17.")' :U' W.

Next morning fresh gales and hazy weatiier ; saw a seal and several pieces of weed. At
noon, latitude "»!" 12', longitude I7H" 17' ^^- I'he wind veered to tlie iiin-th and N.K. by
N., blew a strong gale by stpialls, which split an old topgallant sail, and obliged us to dduble-
reef tlie toi)saiIs ; but in tlie evening the wind moderated, and veered to W.N.W., when we
loosed a reef out of each topsail, and found the variation of tlie compass to lie !)' '>2' V,., being
then in the latitude .'il" 47', longitude 172' 21' W. ; and tlie next iiiorniiig, the Ultli, in the
latitude of 52° 25', longitude I70" 45' W, it was W 2(Y K. Towards noon, bad niodorato
but cloudy weather, and a great swell from the west : some penguins and i>ieees of sea-weed
seen. On the lOth, steered E.S.E. with a very fresh gale at N., hazy, dirty weather At noon,
latitude 5.T 43', longitude l(i(i° 15' W. On the 20tli, steered E. by 8. with a moderate
breeze at N., attended with thick, hazy weather. At noon, latitude 54^ 8, longitude
162= 10' W.

On the 21st, winds mostly from the N.E., a fresh gale, attended with thick, hazy, dirty
weather. Course S.E. by S. ; latitude, at noon, 55° 31'; longitude l(!<r 2!)' \V. ; abundance
of blue peterels and some penguins seen. Fresh gales at N.W. by X. and N. by AV., and
hazy till towards noon of the 22nd, when the weather cleared up, and we observed in
latitude 55° 48' S., longitude 15(5° 50' W. In the afternoon had a few hours' calm ; after
that, the wind came at S.S.E. and S.E. by S., a light breeze, with which we steered east-
northerly. In the night the aurora australis was visible, but very faint, and noways
remarkable.

On the 23rd, in the latitude of 55° 4(5' S., longitude 15(3° 13' W. The variation was
9° 42' E. Wo had a calm from ten in the morning till six in the evening, when a breeze
sprung up at west; at first it blew a gentle gale, but afterwards freshened. Our course was
now E. 1 N. On the 24th, a fresh breeze at X.W. by W., and N. by W. At noon, in
latitude 55° .38' S., longitude 153° 37' W., foggy in the night, but next day bad a fine gale
at N.W., attended with clear pleasant weather ; course steered I), by N. In the evening,
being in the latitude of 55° 8' S., longitude 148° 10' W. the variation, by the mean of two
coinjiasses, was (5' 35' | E. Having a steady fresh gale at N.N.VV. on the 2(5th and
27th, we steered east, and at noon, on the latter, were in latitude 55" (3' 8., longitude
138° 50' W.

I now gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this ocean, and came to a resolution
to steer directly for the west entrance of the Straits of Alagaliiaens, with a view of coasting
the out or south side of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the Strait Le ]\Iaire. As the
world has but a very imperfect knowledge of this shore, I thought the coasting of it would
be of more advantage, both to navigation and to geography, than anything I could expect to
find in a higher latitude. In the afternoon of this day, the wind blew in squalls, and carried
away the main-topgallant-mast.

A very strong gale northerly, with hazy rainy weather, on the 28th, obliged us to double-
reef the fore and main-topsail, to hand the mizen-topsail, and get down the fore-topgallant-
yard. In the morning, the bolt-rope of the main-topsail broke, and occasioned the sail to bo
split. I have observed that the ropes to all our sails, the square-sails especially, are not of
a size and strength suflicient to wear out the canvas. At noon, latitude 55° 20' S., longi-
tude 134° IG' W., a great swell from N.W. ; albatrosses and blue peterels seen. Next day
towards noon, the wind abating, we loosed all the reefs out of the topsails, rigged another
topgallant-mast, and got tlie yards across. P.M., little wind, and liazy weather; at iiiid-
niglit calm, that continued till noon the next day, when a breeze s]>rutig up at E., witii
which we stretched to the northward. At tliis time we were in the latitude .").")' 32' S.,
longitude 128' 45' W.; some albatrosses and peterels seen. At eight p.m. the wind veering
to N.E., we tacked and stood to E.S.E.

III

650

t'OOKS SKCONI) V()YA(JK HOUND TMK WOIU.P.

Pec. 1774.

I '

On tho l«t of Dcci'iiilu'r, tliick, liazy wcntlier, witli dri/zliiig rnin, ninl a modorato lircczo
of wimi, wliicli iit tliroo o'dook P.M. All to a culm; at this tiino in latitiulo ;'»')" 41' H.,
Idiigitutlc 127' •'»' ^^'' After four limirs' calm, tlie fuj,' cliarcd away, and wc got a wind at
S.K., witli wliiili wo stood X.I'l. Next <lay, a fresh brcizo at S.l'. and lia/.y, hn'^y wcatliiT,
except a few hours in the niorniii;:;, wlien wo found tlie variation to ho 1" 2H' K., latitude
.W" 17\ hmjiitudo I'i')" 11' W. Tiie variation after this was su)ijio8ed to increase; f(ir on
tlie llh, in the niorninp, heinfj in latitude .O.'V 21', lonjritude 121" 'M' \Y., it was ll" !(»' K. ;
in the evening, in latitude .W 13', longitude 11!)' UV S\'., it was .'J" 211' K. ; and on tho r»th,
at six o'clock in the evening, in latitude Ct'.V }{', longitude 11"»" fiH' W., it was 4" 1' E. Tor
more than twenty-four hours having had a fine gale at S., this enahled us to steer E., with
very little deviation to tho N. ; and the wind now altering to S.W. and blowing a steady
fresh bree/o, wo continued to steer E., inclining a little to S. On tho ()th, had some snow
showers. In tho evening, being in latitude .W 13', longitude 111" 12', tho variation was
4" ;")}{' E. ; and the next morning being in latitude 50" 1(»', longitude KM)" 33', it was
C" IE.

The wind was now at W., a fine idoasant gale, sometimes with showers of rain. Nothing
remarkable hapiH-ned, till tho Dth, at noon, when being in the latitude of .W" 37', longitiido
10.3' 44' W., the wind veered to N.E., and afterwards came insensibly round to the S., by
tho E. and S,E., attended with cloudy, hazy weather, and some showers of rain. On tho
loth, a little before noon, latitude fi4", longitude 102" 7' ^^'•^ passed a small bed of sea-weed.
In tho afternoon tho wind veered to S.W., blew a fresh gale, attended with d.ark cloudy
weather. Wo steered ]•'. half a point N. ; and the next day, at six in the evening, being in
latitude f).!' .35', longitude 05" 52' W., the variation was 9" 58' E. iRIany and various sorts
of albatrosses about tho ship.

On the 12th, the wind veered to tho W.N.W., and in the evening to N. ; and, at last,
left us to a calm. That continued till midnight, when we got a breeze at S. ; which, soon
after, veering to and fixing at W., we steered 1'^ ; and on the 14th, in tho morning, found
the variation to bo 13" 25' E., latitude 53" 25', longitude 07" 5.3' W. ; and in the afternoon,
being in the same latitude, and the longitude of H(J" 2* NV., it was 15" 3' E., and increased
in sjicli a manner, that on the 15th, in the latitude of 53" .30', longitude 82" 23' AV., it was
17" E. ; and the next evening, in the latitude of 53" 25', longitude 70" 40', it was 17" 'W E.
About this time, we saw a i>enguin and a piece of weed ; and the next morning, a se.al and
some diving peterels. For the three last d.ays, the wind had been at W., a steady fresh
gale, attended now and then with showers of rain or hail.

At six in the morning of the 17th, being nearly in tho same latitude as above, and in tho
longitude of 77" 10' W., the variation was U\" .33' E. ; and in the afternoon it was 21" 3&,
being at that time in latitude 53" 1(5' S., longitude 75" S>' "W. In the morning, as well as
in the afternoon, I took some observations to determine the longitude by the watch ; and
the results, reduced to noon, gave 70" 18' 30' W. At the same time the longitude, by my
reckoning, was 7^'" 17' ^Y- liut I have reason to think, that we were about half a degree
more to the west than cither the one or the other ; our latitude, .at the same time, was
53" 21' S. "Wo steered E. by N. and E ^ N. .all this day, under all the sail we could carry,
with a fine fresh gale at N.AV. by W. in exi)octation of seeing the land before night ; but not
making it till ten o'clock, we took in the studding-sails, topgallant-sails, .and a reef in each
topsail, and steered E.N.E., in order to m.akc sure of falling in with Cape Deseada. Two
hours after, we msido the Land, extending from N.E. by N. to E. by S., about six leagues
dist.ant. On this discovery, wo wore .and brought-to, with tho ship's head to the S., and
having sounded, found seventy-five fathoms water, the bottom stone and shells. The land
now before us could be no other than tho west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west
entrance to the Stnaits of M.arr.alh.aens.

As this wjis the first run that had been made directly across this ocean, in a high southern
latitude *, I have been a little particular in noting every circumstance that appeared in the
least materiiil ; .and after all, I must observe th.at I never made a passage anywhere of such
length, or even much shorter, where so few interesting circumstances occurred. For, if

" It is not to be supposcil that I roiiKl know at this time that the Adventure Iiad made tlio passage before me.

I>K('. 1774.

(ilcrntc l>rprzo
'!(< ■»•»'• ll'S.,
[;i>t !i wind at
>m:y wuatlicr,
i' K,, Intitiub
rcnso ; for on
an.T \li' K. ;
(1 on tliu fitli,

I IK. Tor
tcor K., with
mirt a steady
il soino snow
ariatinn was
3.'{', it was

in. Notliing
7', longitiulo
to the S., hy
lin. On tho
of sea- weed,
dark cloudy
ng, being in
various sorts

and, at last,
which, soon
■ning, found
afternoon,
id increased
W., it was

s 17" :j»' E.

;, a seal and
steady fresh

, and in tho
was 21" 38',
as well as
vatch ; and
ndc, by my
ilf a degree
> time, was
ould carry,
it; but not
eef in each
ida. Two
six leagues
the S., and
The land
ir the west

II southern
ircd in the
TO of such
. For, if

oforo inc.

Dec 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAtJK IU)['ND TIIK WOULD.

I except tho variation of tho coni)inj*s, I know of nothing else worth notice. The woathcr
had l)'.'en neither unusually stormy nor coM. Ileforo we arrived in tho latitude of 'lO , the
mercury in the thermometer fell gradually from sixty to fifty; and after we arrived in the
latitude of ,'ut\ it was generally between forty-scVeii and forty-five; once or twice it fell to
forty-three. 'I'hese observations wt re niii<l(! at noon.

I have now done with the Southern i'aeifie Ocean ; and Matter myself that no one will
think that I have left it unexplored ; or that moro could have been done, iu one voyage,
towards obtaining that end, than has been done in this.

Soon after wo left New Zealand, Air. Wales contrived and fixed up an instrument, which
ver)' accurately measured the angle tho ship rolled when sailing larf;e and in a great sea;
and that in which she lay down when sailing upon a wind. 'I'lie greatest ani;le he observed
lier to roll was 'M\\ This was on the Otb of this month, when the sea was not unusually
high ; so that it cannot be reckoned the greatest roll she had made. The most he observed
her to heel or lie down, when sailing upon a wind, was lU'; and this was jinder double-
reefed topsails an<l courses.

On the IHth, at three in tho morning, wo sounded again, and found one hundreil and ten
fathoms, the same bottom as before. Wo now made sail with a fresh gale at N.W. and
steered S.IO. by !•'. along the coast. It extended from Cajic Deseada, which bore N. 7' •''•,
to K.S.K., a pretty high ragged isle, which lies near a league from the main, and S. ]}{" K.
six leagues from (.'ajjc Dcscada, bore N. 4!)' K. distant four leagues ; and it obtained tho
namo of Landfall. At four o'clock, wc were north and south of the lii<,'li land of Cape
Dcscada, distant about nine leagues ; so that we saw none of the low rocks said to lie olV it.
The latitude of this Cape is about 5!V' S., longitude ^l" 40' W. Continuing to range tho
coast, at about two leagues' distance, at qleven o'clock we jiassed a projecting jxiint, which
I called Cape Gloucester, It shows a round surface of considerable height, and has much
the appearance of being an island. It lies S.S.E. }^ E., di.stant seventeen leagues from tho
Islo of Landfall. The coast between them forms two bays, strewed with rocky islets, rocks,
and breakers. The coast appeared very broken with many inlets ; or rather it seemed to
be composed of a number of islands. The land is very mountainous, rocky, and barren,
spotted here and there with tufts of wood and patches of snow. At noon Cape Gloucester
bore N. distant eight miles, and the most advanced jjoint of land to the S.E., wbieh wo
judged to be Cape Noir, bore S.E. by S. distant seven or eight leagues, liatitude observed
M" 1.3' S. Longitude made from Cape Deseada, .'»4' 1''. From Capo Gloucester, off which
lies a small rocky island, the direction of the coast is nearly S.E. ; but to Capo Noir, for
which we steered, the course is S.S.E., distant about ten le.igues.

At three o'clock we ])assed Cape Noir, which is a steep rock of considerable height, and
the S.W. point of a large island that seemed to lie detached a league or a league and a half
from the main land. 'I'lie land of the Ca])e, when at a distance from it, appeared to be an
island disjoined from the other ; but, on a nearer api)roach, we found it connected by a low
neck .)f land. At the point of the Capo are two rocks ; the one ])eaked like a sugarloaf,
tho other not so high, and showing a rounder surface ; and S. by E. two leagues from the
Cape .are two other rocky islets. This cape is situated in the latitude of .04' 30' S., longi-
tude 73° 33' W.

After passing the two islets, wc steered E.S.E. crossing the great b.ay of St. Barbara.
We but just saw the land in the bottom of it ; which could not be less than seven or eight
leagues from us. There was a sp.ice, lying in tho direction of E.N.E. from Cape Noir,
where no land was to be seen : this may be the Channel of St. Barbara which opens into the
Straits of Magalhaens, as mentioned by Erezicr. "We found the ( *ape to agree very well
with his description; which shows that he laid down the channel from good memoirs. At ten
o' lock, drawing near the S.E. point of tiie bay, wh'ch lies nearly in the direction of S. (jO"
E. from Cape Noir, eighteen leagues distant, we shortened sail, and s|)ent the night standing
off and on. At two o'clock in the morning of the 19th, having made sail, wc steered S.E.
by E. along the coast, and soon passed the S.E. point of the Bay of St. Barbara, which I
called Cape Desolation ; because near it conmienced tho most desolate and barren country
I ever saw. It is situated in the latitude of 54' 5.0' S., hmgitude 72" 12' W. About four

i > i

nK»K'S SKCONf) VOYAiJK IMU'ND TIIK WOULD.

Okc. 1771.

'..

h'a<.'iicfl to tilt' ( ast tif tliis fapc in i( dti'i) iiilit, nt tlu' oiitrftun- of wIiIjIi lii-s a pretty Inrpo
iHliiixl, mill t<i)iii(' iitlu'i's of li )<s note. Ntarly in tliis bilnnt'on Bonio clinitH |iliu-(' n clianncl
Itailin;.' into tlic Straits of Ma<.'alliai'ns, iintlt-r tlio name of .Straits of Jcloir/.d. At ten
oVIiii'k, licin^ alxiiit a liaciio ami lialf from the lunil, we sounded, and found tiiixty futlionia
water, a Imttcni of finall >toneH and sliells.

The wiiiil, which had heen fvvxU at \. I>y W,, l»ej,'an to ahato, and at noon it fell cahn,
when we olwerved in latitude .'»'»" 2(>' S., longitude made from fajie Deseada 3" 24' E. In
this situation we were ahont three h■a^ue8 from the nearest shore, which was that of an
island. This I named Oiii»ert Isle, after my master. It is nearly of the same height with
the rest of tho eoast, and shows a surface composed of several peaked rocks unequally hi^li.
A little to the S. Iv of it are sonu' smaller islands, and, without them, breakers. I have
hefore ohserved that this is the mest desolate coast I ever saw. It seems entirely composed
of rocky mountains without the least apjiearance of vejjetation. These mountains terminato
in horrible jirecipicis, whose crapj^y summits sjiire up to a vast hei}j;ht ; so that hardly any-
thing' in nature can a|i])ear with a more barren and sava;;e aspect than the whole of this
country. The inland mountains were covered with snow, but those on the sea-coast were
not. We judired the former to belong to the main of Terra del Fuego, and tho latter to bo
islaixls, so rangeil as apparently to form a coast.

After three hours' calm, we got a breeze at S.E. by E. and having made a short trip to
south, stood in for the land ; the most advanced point of which, that we had in sight, boro
E., distant ten leagues. This is a lofty promontory, lying E.S.E. nineteen leagues from
Ciibert Isle, and situated in latitude 5*)" 2(V .S., longitude 70" ^5' W. Viewed from tho
situation we now were in, it terminated in two high towers ; and within them a hill shaped
Hko a sngarloaf. This wild rock therefore obtained the name of York Minster. Two
leagues to the westward of this head a]>]H>ared a large inlet, the west jwint of which wo
fetched in with by nine o'clock, when we tacki-d in forty-one fathoms water, half a league
from the shore : to the westward of this inlet was another, with several islands lying in the
entrance. During the night between the lOth and 20tli, we had little wind easterly, which
in the morning veered to N.E. and N.N.E., but it w.is too faint to be of use ; and at ten
we had a calm, when we observed the ship to drive from off the shore out to sea. We had
made the same observation the day before. This must have been occasioned by a current ;
and the melting of the snow increasing, the inland waters will cause a stream to run ont of
most of these inlets. At noon, wc observed in latitude it')" 39' 30" S., York Minster, then
bearing N. 15" E., distant five leagues; and Hound-hill, just peeping above tho horizon,
which wo judged to belong to tho isles of Saint Ildefonso, E. 2'*" S., ten or eleven leagues
distant. At ten o'clock, a breeze springing np at E. by S., I took this opportunity to stand
in for the land, being desirous of going into one of the many ]iorts which seemed open to
receive us, in order to take a view of the country, and to recruit our stock of wood and
water.

In standing in for an opening, which .appeared on the e.ist side of York Minster, wc had
forty, thirty-seven, fifty, and sixty fathoms water, a bottom of smsill stones and shells.
When wc had the List soundings we were nearly in the middle between the two points that
form the entrance to the inlet, which we observed to branch into two arms, both of them
lying in nearly N., and disjoined V 7 a high rocky point. We stood for the eastern branch
as being clear of islets; and aftc passing a black rocky one, lying without the point just
mentioned, we sounded and found no bottom with a line of a hundred and seventy fathoms.
This was altogether unexpected, and a circumstance that would not have been regarded, if
the breeze h.ad continued ; but at this time it fell cn'm, so that it waa not possible to
extricate ourselves from this disagreeable situ.ation. Two boats were hoisted out, and sent
ahead to tow ; but they would have availed little, had not a breeze sprung up about eight
o'clock, .at S.W. which put it in my power either to stand out to sea, or up the inlet.
Prudence seenu-d to point out the former ; but the desire of finding a good port, and of
learning something of the country, getting the better of every other consideration, I resolved
to stand in ; .and .as night was approaching, our safety depended on getting to an anchor.
With this view we continued to sound, but always had an unfathomable depth.

l>Ki'. 1771.

])rftty larpo
cc a elianiu't
ttl. At ten
\xty fatlioina

it fill cnlni,
24' E. In
I tlint of nri
lu-i^'lit with
r|iially liijr||.
•i'8. I have
y cdnipoHod
IS tcriiiinato
lianlly aiiy-
:li(>lu of tliia
•coast were
lattur to bo

liort trip to
siffht, bore
'agiiea from
}d from the
liill shaped
stiT. Two
f which we
ilf a K'aguo
ving in the
!rly, which
and at ten
Wo had
a current ;
run out of
istcr, then
10 horizon,
on leagues
y to stand
id open to
wood and

r, we had
id shells,
oints tliat
I of them
n brancli
)oint just
fathoms,
arded, if
ssiblc to
and sent

ut eight
he inlet,
t, and of
resolved

anchor.

I>FL 1771.

( OOKS SK( ONI) VOYAOK KOI NI) THE WOULD.

5:.n

Hauling up under the ca^t ^do of thi- land wliicli dividrd tlic two urnis, and sofing a
small cove alnad, I scut a boat to Hound ; niid we kept a^< ntar tin.* ^*llll^(> a^ the ilnriiis
from the laud would permit, in order to bu able to get into tliii place, if there rtliou' I be
anchorage. The boat moku retiirM>.ii, and inforuieil xit that tliere wiia thirty and twenty-
five fathoms water, a full calde's length from the f<liorc. Here wo anchored in thirty
fathoniH, the bottom Maud and broken sheila ; and carried out a kcdgu aud hawser, to steady
the ship for the night.

CHAPTER II. — TUANSACTIONS l.\ CIIUlNTMAa SOfNO, WITH AN ACt'OINT Ol' THK Cor.NrilY

AMI ITS IMIAIUTAMS.

Tnr morning of the 21st waa calm and jdeasaut. After breakfast, 1 set out with two
boats to look for a more secure station. Wo no sooner got round, or above the point, under
which the ship lav, than wo found a cove in which was anchorage in thirty, twenty, and
fifteen fathoms, the bottom atones and sand. At the head of the cove waa a stony be.ach. a
valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water ; so that there waa everything wo
could expect to find in such a jdace, or rather more ; f<ir we shot three geese out of four that
we saw, and caught some young onea, which we afterwarda let go.

After discovering aud sounding this cove, I sent Lieutenant C'lerke, who commanded the
other boat, on board, with orders to remove the ship into this jdace, while I ])roceeded
farther up the inlet. I preaently saw that the land we were under, which disjoined the two
arms, as mentioned before, waa an island, at the north end of which the two channels united.
After tliia I haatened on board, aud found everything in rea<lincss to weigh ; which waa
accordingly done, and all the boata sent ahead to tow the shij) round the point. Hut, at
that moment, a light breeze came in from the sea too scant to fill our sails ; so that we wero
obliged to drop the anchor again, for fear of falling upon the point, and to carry out a kedge
to windward. That being done, wc hove up the anchor, warped up to aud weighed tlio
kedge, and proceeding round the point under our stay-sails, there anchored with the best
bower, in twenty fathoms ; and moored with the other bower, which lay to the north, in
thirteen fatboma. In thia position we were sluit in from the sea by the point abr)ve men-
tioned, which waa in one with the extremity of tlie inlet to the east. Scnuo islets, oft' the
next point above us, covered ua from the N.W., from which quarter the wind had the
greatest fetch ; and our distance from the shore was about one-third of a mile. Thus
situated, wo went to work, to clear a jdace to fill water, to cut wood, and to set up a tent
for the reception of a guard, which was thought necessary ; as we had already discovered,
that, barren aa thia country is, it was not without people, though we had not yet seen any.
Mr. Walea alao got his observatory and instruments on shore ; but it was with Ihe greatest
difliculty he could find a place of auflicient stability, and clear of the mountains, which every-
where surrounded us, to set them up in ; and at last he was obliged to content himself with
the top of a rock, not more than nine feet over.

Next day I sent Lieutenants Gierke and Pickersgill, accompanied by some of the other
officers, to examine and draw a sketch of the channel on the other side of the island ; and I
went myself in aiothcr boat, accompanied by the botanists, to survey the northern parta of
the sound. In my way, I landed on the point of a low isle cohered with herbage, part of
which had been lately burnt ; we likewise saw a hut ; signs suflicicnt that people were in
the neighbourhood. After I had taken the necessary bearings, we proceeded round the east
end of Burnt Island, and over to what wc judged to be the main of Terra del Fucgo, where
we found a very fine harbour encompassed by steep rocks of vast height, down which ran
many limpid streams of water ; and at the foot of the rocks, some tufts of trees, fit for little
else but fuel. This harbour, which I shall distinguish by the name of the Devil's Basin, is
divided, as it were, into two, an inner and an outer one ; and the communication between
them is by a narrow channel five fathoms deep. In tlie outer basin, I found thirteen and
seventeen fathoms water, and in the inner, seventeen and twenty-three. This last is as
secure a place as can be, but nothing can be more gloomy. The vast height of the savage

684

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1774.

rocks which cnconi]>nss it, deprived great part of it, even on this day, of the meridian sun.
Tlie outer harbour is not quite free from tliis inconvenience, but far more so than the other;
it is also rather more commodious, and equally safe. It lies iu the direction of north, a milo
and a half distant from the cast end of Burnt Island. I likewise found a good anchoring-
place a little to the west of this harbour, before a stream of water tiiat comes out of a lake
or largo reservoir, which is continually 8uj)plied by a cascade falling into it.

Leaving this place, we proceeded along tiic sliorc to the westward, and found other
liarbours, which I had not time to look into. In all of them is fresh water, and wood for
fuel ; but except these little tufts of bushes, the whole country is :i barren rock, doomed by
nature to everlasting sterility. The low islands, and oven some of the higher, which lie
scattered up and down the sound, arc indeed mostly covered with shrubs and herbage, the
soil a black rotten turf, evidently composed, by length of time, of decayed vegetables. I had
an opportunity to verify what wo had observed at sea ; that the sea-coast is composed of a
number of large and small islands, and that the numerous inlets are formed by the junction
of several channels, — at least so it is here. On one of these low islands we found several
huts which had lately been inhabited ; and near them was a good deal of celery, with wliieli
we loaded our boat, and returned on board at seven o'clock in the evening, In this expedi-
tion we met with little game ; one duck, three or four shags, and about that number of rails
or sea-i)ies, being all we got. The other boiit retiiiucd on board some hours before ; having
found two harbours on the west side of the other channel, the one large and the other small,
but both of them safe and commodious ; though, by the sket' h Mr. I'ickersgill had taken of
them, the access to both appeared rather intricate. I was now told of a melancholy accident
which had befallen one of our marines. lie had not been seen since eleven or twelve o'clock
the preceding night. It was supposed that he had fallen overboard out of the head, where
ho had been last seen, and was drowned.

Having fine pleasant weather on the 23d, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill in the cutter to
cxjdore the east side of the sound, and went myself in the pinnace to the west side, with au
intent to go roimd the island, xmder which we were at anchor (and which I shall distinguish
by the name of Shag Island), in order to view the passage leading to the harbours
Mr. Pickersgill had discovered the d.ay before, on which I made the following observations.
In coming from sea, leave all the rocks and islands, lying off and within York Minster, on
your larboard side ; and the black rock, which lies off the south end of Shag Island, on your
starboard ; and when abreast of the south end of that island, haul over for the west shore,
taking care to avoid the beds of weeds you will see before you, as they always grow on
rocks ; some of which I have found twelve fathoms under water, but it is always best to
keep clear of them. The entrance to the large harbour, or Port Clerke, is just to the north
of some low rocks lying off a point on Shag Island. This harbour lies in W. by S., a mile
and a half, and hath in it from twelve to twenty-four fathoms depth, wood, a-id fresh water.
About a mile without, or to the southward of Port Clerkc, is, or seemed to bo, anot'.ier
which I did not examine. It is formed by a large island, which covers it from the south
and cast winds. Without this island, that is, between it and York Minster, the sea seemed
strewed with islets, rocks, and breakers. In proceeding round the south end of Shag Island,
we observed the shags to breed in vast numbers in the cliffs of the rocks. Some of the old
ones we shot, but could not come at the young ones, which arc by far the best eating. On
the east side of the island we saw some geese ; and having with difficulty landed, we killed
three, w^hich at this time was a valuable acquisition.

About seven in the evening we got on board, where Mr. Pickersgill had arrived but just
before. lie informed me that the land opposite to our station was an island, which he had
been round j that, on another, more to the north, he found many teru.'i' eggs, and that with-
out the great island, between it and the east head, lay a cove in which were many geese ;
one only of whicii he got, besides sonic young goslins. This information of Mr. Pickersgill
induced mo to make up two shooting panics next day; IMr. Pickersgill and his associates
going in the cutter, and myself and the botanists in the pinnace. ]Mr. Pickersgill went by
the N.E. side of the large island above mentioned, which obtained the name of Goose Lland ;
and I went by the S.W. side. As soon as we got under the island, wo found plenty of shags

Dec. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOY.VGE ROUND THE WORLD.

.i.ns

meridian sun.
an the other ;
nortli, a milo
id aiichoring-
out of a lake

found other
and wood for
I, doomed by
er, wliich lie

herbage, the
ablcs. I had
miposed of a

the junction
found several
, witli wJiicli

this expcdi-
mber of rails
fore ; having

other small,
had taken of
loly accident
velve o'clock
head, where

Hie cutter to
ide, with an
1 distinoruish
>e harbours
ibservations.
Minster, on
nd, on your
west shore,
lys grow on
ays best to
;o the north
Y S,, a mile
rcsh water,
be, anot'.ier
n the south
sea seemed
hag Island,
■ of the old
iting. On
we killed

cd but just
ich he had
that with-
any geese ;
Pickersffill
associates
11 went by
jse Island ;
iy of shags

in the cliffs, but, without stayincr to spend our time and shot upon these, we proceeded on,
and presently found sport euougli ; for in the soutli of the island were abundance of geese.
It happened to be tlie moulting season, and most of them were on shore for that purpose,
and could not fly. There being a great surf, we found great ilitticulty in landing, and very
bad climbing over the lotks when we were landed : so tliat Imndreds of the geese eseajied
us, some into the sea, and others up into the island. We, however, by one means or otiier,
got sixty-two ; with which we returned on board, all heartily tired ; but the acquisition we
had made overbalanced every other consideration, and we sat down with n good apjietite to
supper, on part of what the preceding day had jiroduced. Mr. l'ieker.*gill and his associates
had got on l)oard some time before ns, with fourteen gee.se; so that I was able to make
distribution to the whole crew, which was the more acceptable, on account of the apjn'oach-
ing festival ; for, had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, our Christmas cheer
must have been salt beef and pork.

I now learnt that a number of the natives, in nine canoes, had been alongside the ship,
and some on board. Little address w;is required to persuade them to either ; for they
seemed to be well enough acquainted with Europeans, and liad amongst them some of their
knives. The next morning, the 25th, they made us another visit. I found them to be of
the sane nation I had formerly seen in Success Bay ; and the same which M. de Bougain-
ville distinguishes by the name of Pecheras, a word which these had on every occasion in
their mouths. They are a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race : I saw not a tall person
amongst then). They were almost naked ; their clothing was a seal- skin ; some had two or
three sewed together, so as to make a cloak which reacli'^'' to the knees ; but the most of
them had only one skin, hardly large enough to cover their shoulders, and all their lower
parts were quite naked. The women, I was told, cover their nakedness with a flap of a seal-
skin, but in other respects are clothed like the men. They, as well as the children, remained
in the canoes. I saw two young children at the breast entirely naked ; thus they are inured
from their infancy to cold and hardships. They had with them bows and arrows, and darts,
or rather harpoons, made of bone, and fitted to a staff. I suppose they were intended to kill
seals and fish ; they may also kill whales with them, as the Esquimaux do. I know not if
they resemble them in their love of train-oil ; but they, and everything they had, smelt most
intolerably of it. I ordered them some biscuit, bi'L did not observe them so fond of it as I
had been told. They were much better pleased wuen I gave them some medals, knives, &c.
The women and children, as before observed, remained in the canoes. These were made
of bark ; and in each was a fire, over which the poor creatures huddled themselves. I
cannot suppose that they carry a fir*^ in their canoes for this purpose only ; but rather that
it may be always ready to remove a.iiore wherever they land ; for let their method of obtain-
ing iire be what it may, they cannot be always sure of finding dry fuel that will kindle
from a spark., They likewise carry in their canoes large seal hides, which I judged were
to shelter them when at sea, .and to serve as covering to their huts on shore ; and occasionally
to be used for sails. They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to partake of our
Christmas cheer. Indeed I believe no one invited them, and for good reasons ; for
their dirty persons, and the stench they carried about them, were enough to sjxjil the
appetite of any Eur(.>pean ; and that would have been a real disappointment, as we had not
experienced such fare for some time. Roast and boiled geese, goose-pie, &c. was a treat
little known to us ; and we had yet some Madeira wine ]?ft, which was the only article of
our provision that was mended b)' keeping. So that our friends in England did not,
perhaps, celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than we did.

On the 2()th, little wind, next to a calm, and fair weather, except in the morning, when
wo had some showers of rain. In the evening, when it was cold, the natives made us
another visit ; and it being distressing to see them stand trembling and naked on the deck,
I could do no less than to give them some baize and old canvas to cover themselves. Having
already completed our water, on the 27th I ordered the wood, tent, and observatory to be
got on board ; and, as this was work for the day, a party of us went in two boats to shoot
geese, the weather being fine and ])leasant. We proceeded round by the south side of
Goose Island, and picked up in all thirty-one. On the cast side of the island, to tiie north

i'u

I (

, )

; 1 1

i i

r k

666

COOK'S SFX'OND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dko. 1774.

of the cast point, is good anchorage, in seventeen fathoms water, where it is entirely land-
locked. This is a good place for sliips to lie in that arc bound to the west. On the north
side of this isle I observed three fine coves, in which were botli wood and water ; but it
being near night, I had no time to sound tliem ; though I doubt not there is anchorage.
The way to come at them is by the west end of the island.

When I returned on board, I found everything got off the shore, and the launch in ; so
that we now only waited for a wind to put to sea. The festival, which we celebrated at
this place, occasioned my giving it the name of Christmas Sound. The entrance, which is
three leagues wide, is situated in the latitude of 55° 27' S., longitude 7(f 1& W. ; and in
the direction of N. 37" ^V. from St. Ildefonso Isles, distant ten leagues. These isles are the
best land-mark for finding the sound. York JMinster, which is the only remarkable land
about 't, will hardly be known by a stranger from any description that can be given of it,
because it alters its appearance according to the different situations it is viewed from.
Besides the black rock, which lies off the end of Shag Island, there is another about midway
between this and the east shore. A copious description of this sound is unnecessary, as few
would be benefited by it. The sketch which accompanies this journal will be a sufficient
guide for such ships as chnnce may bring hither. Anchorage, tufts of wood, and fresh water,
will be found in all the coves and harbours. I would advise no one to anchor very near the
shore for the sake of having a moderate depth of water ; because there I generally found a
rocky bottom.

CHRISTMAS SOl'ND.

The refreshments to be got here are precarious, as they consist chiefly of vvild-fowl, and
may probably never be found in such plenty as to suppl}' the crew of a ship ; and fish, so
far as we can judge, are scarce. Indeed the plenty of wild-fowl made us pay less attention
to fishing. Here are however plenty of muscles, not very larce, but well tasted ; and very
good celery is to be met with on several of the low islets, and where the nati .cs have their
habitations. The wild-fowl arc geese, ducks, sea-pies, shags, and that kind of gull so often
mentioned in this journal under the name of Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck,

Dkc. 1774.

8 entirely land-
On the north
water ; but it

' is anchorage.

launch in ; so
c celebrated at
•ance, which is
8' W. ; and in
3c isles are the
iiarkable land
be given of it,

viewed from,
ibout midway
cssary, as few
>e a sufficient
d fresh water,
very near the
rally found a

Dec. 1774.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND TTIE WORLD.

«o7

called by our people race-liorsos, on account of the groat swiftness with which tlicy run on
the water; for they cannot fly, the wings being too short to support the h-"\y in the air.
This bird is at the Falkland Islands, as appears by IVrnety's journal*. Tlie geese too arc
there, and seem to be very well described under the name of bustards. They are much
smaller than our English tamo geese, but eat as well as any I ever tasted. They have short
black bills and yellow feet. The gander is all white ; the female is spotted black and white,
or grey with a large white spot on each wing. Besides the bird above mentioned, here are
several other aquatic, and some land ones ; but of the latter not many.

From the knowledge which the inhabitants seem to have of Europeans, wc may suppose
that they do not live here continually, but retire to the north during the winter. I have
often wonder }d that these people do not clothe themselves better, since nature has certainly
provided materials. They might line their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of
aquatic birds ; they might make their cloaks larger, and employ the same skins for other
parts of clothing ; for I cannot suppose they are scarce with them. They were ready enough
to part with those they had to oiir people ; which they hardly would have done, bad they
not known where to have got more. In short, of all the nations I have seen, the IVcheras
are the most wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in
the world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with sucii' conveniences as
may render life in some measure more comfortable.

Barren as this country is, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, and gave suf-
ficient employment to Mr. Forster and his party. The tree which produeeth the Winter's
bark is found here in the woods, as is the holly-leaved berberry, and some other sorts which
I know not, but I believe are conmion in the Straits of JMagalhacns. We found plenty of
a berry which we called the cranberry, because they are nearly of the same colour, size, and
shape. It grows on a bushy plant, has a bitterish taste, rather insipid ; but may be eateu
cither raw or in tarts, and is used as food by the natives.

■fowl, and
id fish, so
attention
and very
lave their
1 so often
of duck,

LE MAIRE, AND ROUND STATEN LAND ; WITH AN ACCOUNT OP THE DISCOVERY OF A
HARBOUR IN THAT ISLAND, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS.

At four o'clock in the morning on the 28th we began to unmoor ; and at eight weighed
and stood out to sea, with a light breeze at N.W. which afterwards freshened, and wjis
attended with rain. At noon the east point of the sound (Point Nativity) bore N. }. W.
distant one and a half leagues, and St. Ildefonso Isles S.E. J S., distant seven leagues. The
coast seemed to trend in the direction of E. by S. ; but the weather being very hazy, nothing
appeared distinct.

We continued to steer S.E. by E. and E.S.E., with a fresh breeze at W.N.W., till four
o'clock P.M., when we hauled to the South, in order to liave a nearer view of St. Ildefonso
Isles. At this time we were abreast of an inlet, which lies E.S.E. about seven leagues from
the sound ; but it must be observed that there are some isles without this distinction. At
the west j)oint of the inlet are two high peaked hills ; and below them to the E. two round
hills, or isles, which lie in the direction of N.E. and S.W. of each other. An island, or what
appeared to be an island, lay in the entrance ; and another but smaller inlet appeared to the
west of this; indeed, the coast appeared indented and broken as usual. At half-past five
o'clock, the weather clearing up, gave us a good sight of Ildefonso Isles. They are a group
of islands and rocks above water, situated above six leagues from the main, and in the
latitude of 55" .'>3" S., longitude 09" 41 " W.

We now resumed our course to the east ; and, at sunset, the most advanced land bore
S.E, by E. I E. ; and a point, which I judged to be the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered
by the Dutch fleet under the command of Admiral Ilermite in 1024, bore N. 80" E., six
leagues distant. In come charts, this point is called false Cape Horn, as being the southern
point of Terra del Fuego. It is situated in latitude 55° 39' S. From the inlet above mcn-

• See Pcrncty's Journal, p. 244 and p. 213.

■'!»

.558

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

Due. 1774.

tioncd to this fulso cape, tlic direction of the coast is nearly E., lialf a point S., distant
fourteen or fifteen leagues. At ten o'clock, having shortened sail, wo spent the night in
making short boards under the topsails, and, at three next morning, made sail and steered
S.E. hy S. with a fresh breeze at W.S.AV., the weather somewhat hazy. At this time, tho
west entrance to Nassau Bay extended from N. by E. to N. ^ E. ; and the south side of
Ilcrniite's Isles, E. by S. At four. Cape Horn, for which we now steered, bore E. by S. It
is known at a distance, by a high round hill over it. A point to the W.N.W. shows a surface
not unlike this ; but their situations alone will always distinguisli the one from the other.

At half-past seven, we passed this famous cape, and enter*?d the Southern Atlantic Ocean.
It is the very same point of land I took for the cape when I passed it in 17<}0, which at
that time I was doubtful of. It is tho most southern extremity on a group of islands of
unequal extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the name of Ilermite Islands, and is
situated in the latitude of 55" 58*, and in the longitude of 08° 13' west, according to the
observations made of it in 1769. But the observations which wo had in Christmas Sound,
and reduced to the cape by the watch, and others wliich we had afterwards, and reduced
back to it by the same means, place it in (57" 19'. It is most probable that a mean between
the two, viz. 07" 46', will be nearest the truth. On the N.W. side of the cape are two peaked
rocks like sugarloavos. They lie N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., by compass, of each other.
Some other straggling low rocks lie west of the cape, and one south of it ; but they are all
near the shore. From Christmas Sound to Cape Horn, the course is E.S.E. ^ E., distant
thirty-one leagues. In the direction of E.N.E., three leagues from Cape Horn, is a rocky
point, which I called Mistaken Cape, and is the southern point of the easternmost of
Herniite Isles. Between these two capes there seemed to be a passage directly into Nassau
Bay ; some small isles were seeil in tho passage ; and the coast, on the west side, had tho
appearance of forming good bays or harbours. In some charts, Cape Horn is laid down as
belonging to a small island. "This was neither confirmed nor can it be contradicted by us ;
for several breakers appea; jd in tho coast, both to the east and west of it ; and the hazy
weather rendered every object indistinct. Tho summits of some of the hills were rocky, but
the sides and valleys seemed covered with a green turf, and wooded in tufts.

From Cape Horn we steered E. by N. ^ N. whicii direction carried iis without the rocks
that lie off Mistaken Cape. These rocks are white with the dung of fowls ; and vast numbers
were seen about them. After passing them, we steered N.E. ^ E. and N.E. for Strait Le
]\Iaire, with a view of looking into Success Bay, to see if there were any traces of the Adven-
ture having been there. At eight o'clock in the evening, drawing near the strait, we
shortened sail, and hauled the wind. At this time the Sugarloaf on Terra del Fuego bore
N. 33° W. I the point of Success Bay, just open of tho cape of the same name, bearing N.
20" E. ; and Staten Land, extending from N. 53° E. to ($7° E. Soon after, the wind died
aMay, and we had light airs and calms by turns till near noon the next day ; during which
time we were driven by the current over to Staten Land.

Tho calm being succeeded by a light breeze at N.N.W. we stood over for Success Bay,
assisted by the currents, which set to the north. Before this, we had hoisted our colours,
and fired two guns ; and soon after, saw a smoke rise out of the woods, above the south point
of the bay ; which I judged was made by the natives, as it was at the place where they
resided when I was here in 1769. As soon as we got off the bay, I sent Lieutenant
Pickersgill to see if any traces remained of the Adventure having been there 1:itely ; and in
the mean time we stood on and off witii the ship. At two o'clock, the current turned and
set to the south ; and ]Mr. Pickersgill informed rac when he returned, that it was falling
water on shore ; which was contrary to what I had observed when I was here before ; for
I thought then tliat the flood came from the nortli. Mr. Pickersgill saw not the least signs
of any ship having been there lately. I had inscribed our ship's name on a card, wliich ho
nailed to a tree at the i)lace where the Endeavour watered. This was done with a view of
giving Captain Funieaux some information, in ease he should be behind us and ])ut in here.
On iVFr. Pickersgill's lauding, he was courteously received by several of the natives, who
were clothed in guanicoc and seal-skins, and had on their arms braceh'ts, made of silver
wire, and wrought not unlike the hilt of a sword, being no doubt the manufacture of some

Dec. 1774.

lit S., distant
> tlie night in
lil and steered
this time, the
I south side of
3 E. by S. It
lows a surface
1 tlie otlier.
tlantic Ocean.
J()9, which at

of islands of
ilands, and is
)rding to the
stnias Sound,

and reduced
lean between

two peaked
r each other.

1 they are all
{ E., distant
n, is a rocky
3ternniost of
into Nassau
ide, had the
aid down as
icted by us ;
ind the hazy
3 rocky, but

it the rocks
ast numbers
jr Strait Lo
the Adven-
( strait, we
Fuego bore
bearing N.
j wind died
iring which

ccess Bay,
)Hr colours,
5outh point
where they
Lieutenant
y ; and in
urned and
rt'as falling

)ef()re ; for
least siflrns

which ho
a view of
it in here.
tives, who

of silver
of some

Dec. 17/4.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

55y

Europeans. They were the same kind of people wc had seen in Christmas Sound ; and,
like them, repeated the word Pechera on every occasion. One man spoke much to Mr.
Pickersgill, pointing first to the ship and then to the bay, as if he wanted her to come in.
Mr. Pickersgill said the bay was full of whales and seal-i ; and we had observed the same in
the strait, especially on the Terra del Fuego side, where the whales, in particular, arc
exceedingly numerous.

As soon as the boat was hoisted in, which was not till near six o'clock, wc made sail to the
east, with a fine breeze at north. For since we had explored the south coast of Terra del
Fuego, I resolved to do the same by Staten Land ; which I believed to have been as little
known as the former. At nine o'clock the wind freshening, and veering to N.AV. we tacked,
and stood to S.W. in order to spend the night, which proved none of the best, being stormy
and hazy, with rain. Next morning, at tlireo o'clock, we bore up for the east end of Staten
Land, which, at half-past four, bore S. (iO" E. the west end S. 2" E. and the land of Terra
del Fuego S. 40^ W. Soon after I had taken these bearings, the land was again obscured in
a thick haze, and we were obliged to make way, as it were, in the dark ; for it was but now
and then we got a sight of the coast. As we advanced to the east, we perceived several
islands, of unequal extent, lying off the land. There seemed to be a clear passage between
the easternmost and the one next to it, to the west. I would gladly have gone through tliis
passage, and anchored under one of the islands, to have waited for better weather ; for on
sounding we found only twenty-nine fathoms water ; but when I considered that this was
running to leeward in the dark, I chose to keep without the islands, and accordingly hauled
oflf to the north. At eight o'clock we were abreast of the most eastern isle, distant from it
about two miles, and had the same depth of water as before. I now shortened sail to the
three topsails, to wait for clear weather ; for the fog was so thick that wc could see no
other land than this island. After waiting an hour, and the weather not clearing up, we
bore, and hauled round the east end of the island, for the sake of smooth water and anchorage,
if it should be necessary. In hauling round, we found a strong race of a current, like unto
broken water ; but we had no less than nineteen fathoms. We also saw on the island
abundance of seals and birds. This was a temi)tation too great for people in our situation to
withstand, to whom fresh provisions of any kind were acceptable ; and determined me to
anchor, in order that we might taste of what we now onlj' saw at a distance. At length,
after making a few boards, fishing, as it were, for the best ground, we anchored in twenty-
one fathoms water, a stony bottom, about a mile from tht island, which extended from N.
18" E. to N. 55° ^ W. ; and soon after, the weather clearing up, we saw Cape St. John, or
the east end of Staten Land, bearing S. 7^° E., distant four leagues. We were sheltered
from the south wind by Staten Land, and from the north wind by the island ; the other isles
lay to the west, and secured us from that wind ; but beside being open to the N.E. and E.,
wc also lay exposed to the N.N.W. winds. This might have been avoided by anchoring
more to the west ; but I made choice of my situation for two reasons : first, to be near the
island we intended to land upon ; and secondly, to be able to get to sea with any wii.d.

After dinner we hoisted out three boats, and landed with a large party of men ; some to
kill seals, others to catch or kill birds, fish, or what came in our way. To find of the former,
it mattered not where we landed, for the whole shore was covered with them ; and, by the
noise they made, one would have thought the island was stocked with cows and calves. On
landing, wc found they were a different animal from seals, but in shape and motion exactly
resembling them. We called them lions, on account of the great resemblance tlie male has to
that beast. Here were also the same kiud of seals which wc found in New Zealand generally
known by the name of sea-bears, — at least, we gave them that name. They were, in general,
so tame, or rather stupid, as to sufliur us to come near enough to knock them down with sticks;
but the largo ones we shot, not thiaking it safe to approach them. AVe also found on the
island abundance of penguins and shags ; and the latter had young ones almost fledged, and
just to our taste. Here were geese and ducks, but not many; birds of prey, and a few small
birds. In the evening we returned on board, our boats well laden with one thing or other.

Next day, being January the 1st, 177''>) finding that nothing was wanting but a good
harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships to refresh at, whom chance or design might

;i'

\<.\

vy« ,

1^.

5,^..S.>VJ

Si;

600

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. ]"■'>•

bring hitlior, I sent IVIr. fSilbort ov.cr to Statcn Land in tlic cuttor to loolt for one. Appear-
ances i)roniiweil success in a |)l:ice opposite the ship. I sent also two other boats for the lions
&c. wo hail killed the preceding day ; and soon after I went myself, and observed the snn's
meridian altitude at the N.E. end of the island, which gave tlio latitude o4' 40' 5" south.
After shooting a few geese, sonic other birds, and plentifully supplying ourselves with young
shags, we returned on board, laden with sea-lions, sea-bears, &c. The old lions and bears

■^^- tt^'^ \

SF.A BEAM. {Arctocephalus ursinus.)

were killed chiefly for the sake of their blubber, or fat, to make oil of; for, except their
Iiivrslets, which were tolerable, the flesh was too rank to be eaten with any degr(;e of relish.
But the young cubs were very pitlatable, and even the flesh of some of the old lionesses was
not much amiss ; but that of the old males was abominable. In the afternoon, I sent some
people on shore to skin and cut off^ the fat of those which yet remained dead on shore, for we
had already more carcasses on board than necessary ; and I went myself, in another boat, to
collect birds. About ten o'clock Mr. Gilbert returned from Staten Land, where he found a
good port, situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St. John, and in the direction of
north, a little easterly, from the N.E. end of the eastern island. It may be known by some
small islands lying in the entrance. The channel, which is on the east side of these islands,
is half a mile broad. The course in is S.W. by S., turning gradually to W, by S. and W.
The harbour lies nearly in this last direction ; is almost two miles in length ; in some places
near a mile broad ; and hath in it from fifty to ten fathoms water, a bottom of mud and sand.
Its shores arc covered with wood fit for fuel ; and in it are several streams of fresh water.
On tlie islands were sea-lions, &c., and such an innumerable quantity of gulls as to darken
the air when disturbed, and almost to sufTocate our people with their dung. This they
seemed to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse tlian asafoetida, or, as it is commonly
called, devil's dung. Our people also saw several geese, ducks, and race-horses, which is also
a kind of duck. The day on which this port was discovered, occasioned my calling it New
Year's Harbour. It would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, or round Cape
Horn, if its situation would permit them, to put to sea with an easterly and nortlierly wind.
This inconvenience, however, is of little consequence, since these winds are never known to
be of long duration. The southerly and jvesterly are the prevailing winds ; so that a ship
can never '•' letaincd long in this port.

As we t.Mild not sail in the morning of the 2d for want of wind, I sent a party of men on
shore to the island, on the same duty as before. Towards noon wo got a fresh breeze at
west ; but it came too late, and I resolved to wait till the next morning, when, at four

J AS. IT"-''.

r one. A ppcar-
oats for tlie lions
served the sun's
4^ 4(»' 5" south,
lives with young
1 lions and bears

or, except their
egr(.'e of rclisli.
d lionesses was
m, I sent some
n shore, for we
nother boat, to
lere he found a
ho direction of
nown by some
these inlands,
by S. and W.
in some places
mud and sand,
af fresh water,
s as to darken
This they
t is commonly
I, whicli is also
calling it New
or round Cape
ortherly wind.
Jver known to
so that a ship

•ty of men on
resh breeze at
when, at four

Jan. 1776.

COOK'S SKCONI) VOVAGE ROUND TIIK U'OllLU.

£(11

o'clock, wo weighed with a fresh galo at N.W. by W., and stood for Cajie St. John, which,
at half-]>aMt six, bore N. by K., distant four or live miles. This ciipc, being the eastern i)oiut
of Staten Land, a description of it is unnecessary. It may, however, not ho amiss to say,
that it is a rock of considerable height, situated in the latitude of .'ti -1(5' south, longitude
04" 7 west, with a rocky islet lying clo.*e under the north part of it. To the westward of
the cape, about five or si.\ miles, is an inlet, which seeujed to divide the land ; that is, to
communicate with the sea to the south ; and between this inlet and the cajiu is a bay, but I
cannot say of what depth. In sailing round the cape we met with a very strong current
from the south : it made a raci; which looked like breakers ; an<l it was as much as we could
do, with a strong gale, to make head against it.

After getting round tiie capo I hauled »ip along the south coast ; and as soon as we had
brought the wind to blow olV the land, it camo upon us in such heavy squalls as obliged us
to double reef our topsails. It aftorwanls full, by little and little, and at noon endcil in a
calm. At this time Capo St. John bore X. t2(r east, distant three and a half leagues ; Capo
St. Bartholomew, or the S.W. point of Staten Laud, 8. HW west ; two high detached roeka
N. 80^ west ; and the place wliero the laud seemed to bo divi<le(l, which had t!ie saniu
appearance on this side, bore N. 1 ")° west, three leagues distant. Latitude observed Til" ,'tii'.
In this situation wo sounded, l)ut had no bottom, with a line of one hundred and twenty
fatlioms. The calm was of very short duration, a breeze presently s]iringiug up at N W., but it
was too faint to make head against the current, and we drove witii it back to the N.N.i'].
At four o'clock the wind veered at once to S. by E., and blew in squalls attended with rain.
Two hours after, the squalls and rain subsided, and the wind, returning back to the west,
blew a gentle gale. All this time the current set us to the north ; so that at eight o'clock,
Cape St. John bore W.N.W., distant about seven leagues. I now gave over Jilying, and
steered S.E. with a resolution to leave -the land ; judging it to be sullicieutly explored to
answer the most general purposes of navigation and geography.

CHAPTER IV. OBSERVATIONS, GEOGRAPHICAL AND XAf TICAL, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF TIIE

ISLANDS NEAR STATEN LAND, AND TIIE ANIMALS FOUND IN THEM.

The annexed chart will very accurately show tlie direction, extent, and position of the
coast along which I have sailed, cither in this or my former voyage ; and no more is to bo
expected from it *. The latitudes liave been determined by the sun's meridian altitude,
which we were so fortunate as to obtain every day, except the one we sailed from Christmas
Sound ; which was of no consequence, as its latitude was known before. The longitudes
have been settled by lunar observations, as is .already mentioned. I have taken (J7'' !'>' for
the longitude of Cape Horn. From this meridian the longitudes of all the other parts aro
deduced by the watch ; by whicli the extent of the whole must be determined to a few
miles; and whatever errors there maybe in longitude, must be general. But I think it
highly probable that the longitude is determined to within a quarter of a degree. Thus the
extent of Terra del Fucgo from east to west, and consequently that of the Straits of .ALagal-
liaens, will be found less than most navigators have made it. In order to illustrate this, and
to show the situations of the neighbouring lands, and, by this means, make the annexed chart
of more general use, I have extended it down to 47" of latitude. But I am only answerable
for the inaccuracy of such parts as I have explored myself. In laying down the rest, I had
recourse to the following authorities.

The longitude of Cape Virgin IMary, which is the most essential point, as it determines
the length of the Straits of JIagalhaens, is deduced from Lord Anson, who made 2' .T
difference of loufritude between it and the Strait Le Claire. Now, as the latter lies in
Cut" 22', Cape Virgin jMary must lie in (57' .'j2', which is the longitude I have assigned to it,
and which I have reason to think cannot be far from the truth. The Strait of Magalhacns,

• Tliis cliait, being now cntiic'y superseded by the icccnt buivcys of Ciipliiiiis Kiiig and I'it/.iov, is omitted in tliii
edition. — Ed,

il'

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan 1775.

' M

and the cast coast of Patagonia, .arc laid down from the ohscrvationa made hy tlie hitc
Knglish and French navigators.

The position of the west coast of America, from Capo Victory northward, I have taken
from the discoveries of Stinnieiito, a Spanish navigator, communicated to me hy Mr. Stnart,
F.K..S. Falkland Islands arc copied from a sketch taken from Captain M'Dride, who
circumnavigated them some years ago in his ISFajesty's sliip Jason ; and their distance from
the main is agreeahlc to the run of the Doljjhin, under the command of (Jommodoro Byron,
from Cape A'irgin Mary to I'ort Egmont, and from Port F.gniont to Port Desire ; hotli of
irbich runs were made in a few days ; consecpiently no material errors could ha|)i)en.

Hie S.W. coast of Terra del Fuego, with rcsj)ect to inlets, islands, &c., may he compared
to the coast of Norway ; for I douht, if there ho an extent of three leagues where there is
n<»t an inlet or harhour which will receive and shelter the largest shipping. The worst is,
tlut till these inlets are hetter known, one has, as it were, to fish for anchorage. There .aro
several lurking rocks on the coast ; hut happily ntmc of them lie far from land, the ajiproach
to which may he known hy sounding, supposing the weather so ohscuro that you cannot see
it. For to judge of the whole hy the ])arts wo have sounded, it is more than i)rohable that
there arc soundings all along the coast, and for several leagues out to sea. Upon the whole,
this is by no means the dangerous coast it has heen represented.

StaUn Land lies nearly E. hy N. and W. hy S., and is ten leagues long in that direction; and
nowhere above three or four leagues broad. The coast is rocky, much indented, and seemed
to form several bays or inlets. It shows a surface of craggy hills which spire up to a vast
height, especially near the west end. Except the craggy summits of the hills, the greatest
jort was covered with trees and shrubs, or some sort of herbage, and there was little or no
snow on it. The currents between Cape Deseada and Cape Horn set from west to east, that
i*. in tlie same direction as the coast ; but they arc by no means considerable. To the east
of the cape their strength is much increased, and their direction is N.E. towards Staten Land.
Th<ey are ra])id in Strait Le Maire, and along the south coast of Staten Land, and set like a
tonvnt round Cape St. John ; where they take a N.W. direction, and continue to run very
strong Loth within and without New Year's Isles. AVhile we lay at anchor within this
island, I observed that the current was strongest during the flood ; and that on the ebb, it^
strength was so much impaired, tiiat the ship would sometimes ride head to wind when it
was at west and W.N.W. This is only to bo understood of the place where the ship lay at
anchor; for at the very time we had a strong current setting to the westward, Mr. Gilbert
fuund one of equal strength near the coast of Staten Land, setting to the eastward ; though
probably this was an eddy current or tide.

If the tides are regulated by the moon, it is high-water by the shore at this place, on the
days of the new and full moon, about four o'clock. The perpendicular rise and fall is very
inconsiderable, not exceeding four feet at most. In Christinas Sound it is high water at
half-past two o''clock on the days of the full and change, and JMr. Wales observed it to rise
and fall, on a perpendicular, three feet six inches ; but this was during the neap-tides : con-
sctqiK-ntly the spring-tides must rise higher. To give such an account of the tides and
currents on these coasts as navigators might depend on, would require a multitude of
oli^rvatious, and in different places, the making of which would be a work of time. I
confess myself unprovided with materials for such a task, and believe, that the less I say on
this subject the fewer mistakes I shall make. But I think I have been able to observe, that
in Strait Le Maire, the southerly tide or current, be it flood or ebb, begins to act, on the
days of new and full moon, about four o'clock, which remark may be of use to ships who
|jass the s-trait. Were I bound round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood
of V iter, or anything that might make it necessary to put into port, I would not come
near the land at all. For by keeping out at sea, you avoid the currents, which, I am
s3tL^£ied, lose their force at ten or twelve leagues from land ; and at a greater distance
there is none.

During tlie time we were upon the coast, we had more calms than storms, and the winds
so TariaLle, that I question if a passage might not have been made from east to west in as
short a time as from west to east ; nor did we experience any cold weather. The mercury

Jan 1775.
c by till' late

, I Iiavc tnkcii
jy Mr. Stuurt,
M'Bridc, who

diHtaiieu fruiii
iiodore Byron,
osirc ; both of
a))i)oii.

r be compared
where there is

The worst is,

c. Tliore arc
, tlio ai>proach
nni cannot sec

probable that
[)on the whole,

direction ; and

d, and seemed
; up to a vast
i, the greatest
as little or no
3t to east, that

To the east
3 Staten Land.

and set like a
le to nm very
or within tiiis
m the ebb, it^

wind when it
he ship lay at
1, Mr. Gilbert
vard ; though

place, on the

id fall is very

ligh water at

ved it to rise

p-tides : con-

ho tides and

multitude of

of time. I

less I say on

observe, that

to act, on the

to ships who

ant of wood

lid not come

which, I am

ater distance

id the w-iuds
to west in as
.'he mercury

Jan. 1776.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

503

in the thermometer at noon was never below 40' ; and while wo lay in Christmas
Sound, it was generally above temperate. At tliis place, the variation was 2;$' HO' east ;
a few leagues to the H.W. of Strait Le IMaire, it was 24 ' ; and at anchor, within
New Year's Isles, it was 24" 20' cast. Tiicse isles are, in general, so unlike Staten
Land, especially the one on which we landed, that it deserves a i)articular description. It
shows a surface of equal height, and elevated about thirty or forty feet above the sea, from
which it is defended by a rocky coast. Tlie inner part of the isle is covered with a sort of
sword-grass, very green, and of ;i great length. It grows on little hillocks, of two or three
feet in diameter, and as many or more in height, in large tufts, which seemed to be comjiosed
of the roots of tho plant matted together. Among these hillocks are a vast number of paths
made by sea-bears and penguins, by which they retire into the centre of tho isle. It is,
nevertheless, exceedingly bad travelling ; for these patlis arc so dirty that one is sometimes
up to the knees in mire. Besides this plant, there are a few other grasses, a kind of heath,
and some celery. The whole surface is moist and wet, and on the coast are several small
streams of water. The sword-grass, as I call it, seems to be the same tliat grows in Falkland
Isles, described by Bougainville as a kind of ffladiolus, or rather a species of i/rainen *, and
named by Pernety, corn-flags.

The animals found on this little spot are sea-lions, sea-bears, a variety of oceanic and some
land-birds. Tho sea-lion is pretty well described by Pernety ; though those we saw
hero have not such fore-feet or fins as that he has given a plate of, but such fins as
that which he calls tho

sea- wolf. Nor did wo vW ' ^A

sec any of the size ho
speaks of; the largest
not being more than
twelve or fourteen feet
in length, and perhaps
eight or ten in circum-
ference. They are not
of that kind described,
under the same name,
by Lord Anson ; but
for aught I know, these
would more properly
deserve that appella-
tion ; the long hair with
which the back of the
head, the neck, and
shoulders aro covered,
giving them greatly
the air and appearance
of a lion. The other
part of the body is
covered with a short
hair, little longer than
that of a cow or a horse,
and the whole is a dark
brown. The female is
not half so big as the

male, and is covered with a short hair of an ash, or light dun colour. They live, as it were,
in herds on the rocks, and near tho sea-shore. As this was the time for engendering as
well as bringing forth their young, we have seen a male with twenty or thirty females
about him, and always very attentive to keep them all to himself, and beating off every
other male who attempted to come into his flock. Others again had a less number ; some

• See English translation of Bongainvillc, p. 51.

oo2

SEA LION. (Platyrhynchus leoninus.)

i-s^;^-^^-^-'^'-

tmmipmm

viggsas

fiG4

COOK'S SFX'OND VOYAGE ROUND TFIH ^rORLl).

.Tan. 1775.

1 i

m '

no more than ono or two ; Jiiul lioi'o and tlu-rc wc Iiavc seen oni! lyinj; f,'rowliiif; in a retinil
j)laco alone, ami siiircrlng neither males nor females to approacli him : we jiulged thceo were
ol<l and «uj)('rannnated.

The sea-bears are not so larfro by far as the lions, hnt rather larjjcr than a common seal.
They have none of that long hair which distiiignislies the lion. Tiieirs is all of an eqnal
length, and finer than tiiat of the lion, sometiiing like an otterV ; and the general colonr in
that of iron-grey. This is the kind which the French call sea-wolfs, and tlie llnglish seals;
they arc, however, dilVerent from the seals wo have in Enrojjo and in North America. Tlio
lions may, too, without any great impropriety, be called overgrown seals ; for they are all
of the same species. It was not at all dangerous to go among them ; for they either lied or
lay still. The only danger was in going between them and the sea ; for if tiiey took fright
at anything, they would come down in such numbers, that, if you could not get out of ilieir
way, you would be run over. Sometimes, when we came suddenly upon them, or waked
them out of their sleep (for thoy are a sluggisli sleepy animal), they wouhl raise up their
heads, snort and snarl, and look as fierce as if they meant to devour us ; but as we advanced
npon them, they always ran away; so that they are downright bullies.

The penguin is an amphibious bird, so well known to most people, that I shall only
observe, they are here in prodigious numbers ; so tliat wo could knock down as many as wo
pleased with a stick. I cannot say they are good eating. I have, indeed, made several
good meals of them j but it was for want of better victuals. They either do not breed here,
or else this was not the season ; for wc saw neither eggs nor young ones. Shags breed hero
in vast numbers; and we carried on board not a few, as they are very good eating. They
take certain spots to themselves, and build their nests near the edge of the clifts on littlo
hillocks, which arc cither those of the sword-grass, or else they arc made by tlio shags
building on them from year to year. There is another sort rather smaller than these, which
breed on the dill's of I'ocks.

The geese arc of the same sort we found in Christmas Sound ; wc saw but few, and some
had young ones. ]Mr. Forster shot ono wliich was different from these, being larger, with
a grey plumage and black feet. The others make a noiso exactly like a duck. Hero wero
ducks, but not many; and several of that sort which wo called race-horses. "Wc shot sonic,
and found them to weigh twenty-nino or thirty pounds ; those who ate of them said they
were very good. The oceanic birds were gulls, terns, Port Egmont hens, and a large brown
bird of the size of an albatross, wliich Pernety calls qucbrantahuessas. Wc called them
]\Iother Gary's geese, and found them pretty good eating. The land-birds were eagles, or
hawks, bald-headed vultures, or what our seamen called turkey-buzzards, thrushes, and
.1 few other small birds.

Our naturalists found two now 8j)ecics of birds. The ono is about the size of a pigeon,
the plumage as white as milk. They feed alongshore, probably on shell-fish and carrion ;
for they have a very disagreeable smell. When we first saw these birds, wc thought they wero
the snow-peterel, but the moment they were in our possession the mistake was discovered ;
for they resemble them in nothing but size and colour. These are not web-footed. The
other sort is a species of curlews nearly as big as a heron. It has a var'egated plumage, the
principal colours whereof are light grey, and a long crooked bill. I had almost forgot to
mention that there arc sea-pies, or what wo called, when in New Zealand, curlews ; but
we only saw a few straggling pairs. It may not bo amiss to observe, that the shags arc the
same bird which Bougainville calls saw-bills ; but he is mistaken in saying that the <jue-
brantahucssas are their enemies ; for this bird is of tho pcterel tribe, feeds wholly on lish,
and is to be found in all tho hieh southern latitudes.

It IS amazmg to sec how the different animals which inhabit this littlo spot aro mutually
reconciled. They seem to have entered into a league not to disturb each other's tranquillity.
Tho sea-lions occupy most of the sea-coast ; the sea-bears take up their abode in tho isle ;
the shags have post in the highest cliffs ; the penguins fix tlieir quarters where there is tho
most easy communication to and from tho sea; and the other birds choose more retired
places. Wc have seen all these animals mix together, like domestic cattle and poultry in
a fivrm-yard, without one attempting to molest the otlier. Nay, I have often observed tho

Jan. 1775.

(OOKS SECOND VOYACiK UOnND TIM': WOULD.

r,cu,

in a rcliriil
1 tlieeo wcro

iinnion soal.
of an cqiiiil
ral colour la
iiflish seals;
erica. Tlio
tlicy arc all
itlicr fled or
took Irio'lit
out of ilieir
11, or wakeil
li.sc up their
ve advanced

' shall only
many as wo
mile several
breed here,
^ breed hero
ing. They
iffs on littlo
y tho shags
hctic, which

,v, and sonic
larger, with
Hero wcro
3 shot some,
m said they
lar^e brown
called them
eagles, or
rushes, and

)f a pigeon,
,nd carrion ;
t they wcro
discovered ;
(oted. Tho

uniage, the
ist forgot to
irlewsj but
lags arc tho
it the quc-

lly on tish,

e mutually
ranquillity.
in the isle ;
there is tho
ore retired
poultry in
jsorvcd tho

onglis and vultures j-itting on the hillocks among the shags, without i\w latter, either young
or old, being tlisturbed at their presence. It may be a-kul how these birtls of jyrey live ? I
MUppoKi', on the earea.'-ses of («eals and birds which die by various causes; and probably not
few, as they are so numerous.

This very imperfect account is written more with a view to assist my own memory, than
to givo iuftirmatiou to others. I am neither a botauij^t nor a naturalist ; and Iiave not
words to describe tho proJiu'ti')ns of nature, either iu the one branch of knowledge or
the other.

ciurTER V. — rRotT.r.nixos aftfu lkavlno statf.n islanh, wixri as accovst of tub

niSCOVKHY OF TlIK ISLi: OF GKOHniA, AND A DKSflUrriON OF IT.

IIwiNrj left the land in the evening of the Srd, as before-mentioned, we saw it again next
morning at three o'clock, bearing W. Wind continued to blow a steady fresh brie/.e till six
I'.M., when it shifted in a heavy squall to S.W., which came so suddenly upon us that wo
had not time to take iu the sails, and was the occasion of carrying aw.ay a toii-gallant-mnst,
a studding-sail-boom, and a fore studding-sail. The srpiall ended in a heavy shower of rain,
but tho wind remained at S.W. Our course was S.E., with a view of discovering that
extensive coast, laid down by ]\lr. Dalrymple in his chart, in which is the fiulf of
f>t. Seb.astian. I designed to make the western point of that gulf, in order to have all tho
other parts before me. Indeed, I had some doubt of the existence of such a coast ; and
this appeared to me the best route for clearing it up, and for exploring the southern part of
this ocean.

On tho r»th, fresh gales, and wet. and cloudy weather. At noon observed in ^>7'U\
longitude made from C'ajie Saint John, r/' 2' K. At six o'clock, I'.M., being in tho latitude
57" lil', and in longitude 57' 45' W., the variation w.as 521" 2i\' E, At eight o'clock in tho
evening of the <ith, being then in the latitude of 5J5" D' S., longitude 53" 11' ^V., we cl<>«e-
rcefed our topsails, and hauled to tho nortli, with a very strong gale at W., attended with
a thick haze and sleet. The situation just mentioned is nearly tiie same that ^\r, I)alrynq)le
assigns for the S.W. point of the Ciulf of St. Sebastian. lUit as we saw neither land, nor
signs of land, I was the more doubtful of its existence, and was fearful that by kee]iing to
the so\ith I might miss the land said to be discovered by La Roche in 1(!75, and by the
ship Lion in 17"'^»5 which ^Ir. Dalrymple ])laces in 5-1" ',]0' latitude, and -15' of longitude;
but on looking over Danville's chart, I found it laid down 9" or 10" more to the west ; this
ditt'erence of situation being to me a sign of tho imccrtainty of both accounts, determined
mo to g(!t into the parallel as soon as possible, and was the reason of my hauling to the
north at this time.

Towards the morning of the 'Jth tho gale ab.atcd, the weather clcired up, and the wind
veered to the ^^^S.W., where it continued till midnight ; after which it veered to N.W.
Being at this time iu the latitude of 50" 4' S., longitude 53" 30' W., we sounded, but found
no bottom with a lino of one hundred and thirty fathoms. I still kept the wind en tho
larboard-tack, having a gentle breeze and pleasant weather. On the JUh, at noon, a bed of
sea-weed jiassed tho ship. In the afternoon, in the latitude of 55" -1', longitude 5L 45' ^V.,
the variation was 20" 4' E. On the J)th, wind at N.E., attended with thick hazy weather ;
saw a seal, and a piece of sea- weed. At noon, latitude 55^ 12' S., longitude 50' 15' W.,
the wind and weather continuing tho same till towards midnight, when the latter cleared
np, and the former veered to west, and blew a gentle gale. We continued to ply till two
o'clock the next morning, when we bore awayE., and at eight, E.X.E. ; at noon we observed,
iu latitude 54" 35' S., longitude 47"" 5(5 W., a great many albatrosses and blue peterels about
the sliip. I now steered E., and the next morning, in the latitude of 54" 38', hingitudo
45" 10' \V., the variation was IS)" 25' E. In tho afternoon saw several penguins, and some
j)ieccs of weed.

Having spent the night lying-to, on the 12th, at daybreak, wo bore away, and steered
cast northorlv, with a lino fresh breeze at W.S.W. ; at noon observed in latitude 54" 28' S.,

IP 'I

COG

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1775.

longitmlc in 42" 0' \\'. ; that isi, near 3" E. of tlic sitnntion in which Mr. Dalrymplo places
the N.E. point of the (Sulf of 8t. Sebastian ; bnt wc had no other sinrns of land tiian oeeing
n seal and a few penfjuins ; on the contrary, wo had a swell froni E.8.1*'. which wonld hardly
have heen, if any extensive tract of laud lay in that direction. In the evening the galo
abated, and at midnight it fell calm. Thu eahn, attended by a thick fog, continued till six
next morning, when we got a wind at I'., but the fog still prevailed. We stooil to tho S. till
noon, when being in the hititmle of fi-'t" 7', wo tacked and stretched to the N. with n fresh
breeze at E. by S. and E.S.E., cloudy weather ; saw several jienguins and a snow-p«'tereI,
which we looked on to be signs of the vicinity of ice. The air too was nincli colder than
wo had felt it since wo left N»'w Zealand. In the afternoon tho wind veered to S.E., and
in the night to 8.S.E., and blew fresh ; with which wc stood to tho N.E.

At nine o'clock the next morning we saw an island uf ice as wo then thought ; but at
noon were doubtful whether it was ice or land. At this time it bore E. ^ S., distant
thirteen leagues; onr latitude was 53" 5(5 V, longitude US)" 24' W. ; several penguins, small
divers, a snow-peterel, and a vast number of blue peterels about the ship. \N o had but littlo
wind all the morning ; and at two I'.M. it fell calm. It was now no longer doubted that it
was land, and not ice, v Inch we hud in sight. It was, however, in a manner wholly covered
with snow. We were farther confirmed in our judgment of its being land, by finding
soundings at one hundred and seventy-five fathoms, a muddy bottom. The land at this time
bore E. by S., about twelve leagues distant. At six o'clock the calm was succeeded by a
breeze at N.E., with which wc stood to S.E. At first it blew a gentle gale, but afterwards
increased so as to bring us under double-reefed topsails, and was attended with snow and
sleet. \Ve continued to stand to the iS.E. till seven in the morning on the 15th, when tho
wind veering to the S.E. we tacked and stood to tho N. A little before we tacked, we saw
the land bearing E. by N. At noon the mercury in tho thermometer was at 35 1". The
wind blew in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and we had a great sea to encounter.
At a lee-lurch which the ship took, Mr. Wales observed her to lie down 42". At half-past
four P.M. wc took in the topsails, got down top-gallant-yards, wore tho ship, and stood to
the S.W. under two courses. At midnight the storm abated, so that we could carry tho
topsails double reefed.

At four in tho niornins of the IGtli wc wore and stood to the E., with the wind at
S.S.E., a moderate breeze and fair; at eight o'clock saw the laud extending from E. by N.
to N.E. by N. ; loosed a reef out of each top-sail, got top-gallant yards across, and set tho
sails. At noon observed in latitude 54~' 25,' ; longitude 38" UV W. In this situation wo
had one hundred and ten fathoms water ; and the land extended from N. I W. to E., eight
leagues distant. The northern extreme was the same that wc first discovered, and it proved
to be an island ; which obtained the name of Willis's Island, after the person who first saw it.
At this time we had a great swell from the S., an indication that no land was near us in that
direction ; nevertheless, the vast quantity of snow on that in sight induced us to think it
was extensive, and I chose to begin with exploring the northern coast. With this view wo
bore up for Willis's Island, all sails set, having a fine gale at .S.S.W, As we advanced to
tho N., wc perceived another isle lying er»t ot Willis's, and between it and the main.
Seeing there was a clear passage between the two isles, we steered for it, and at five o'clock,
being in the middle of it, we found it about two miles broad.

Willis's Isle is a high rock of no great extent, near to which arc some rocky islets. It is
situated in the latitude of 54" S., longitude 38" 23' AV. The other isle, which obtained the
name of Bird Isle, on account of the vast number that were upon it, is not so high, but of
greater extent, and is close to the N.E. point of the main land, which I called Cape North.

The S.E. coast of this land, as far as we saw it, lies in the direction of S. 50" E., and N.
50° W. It seemed to form several bays or inlets ; and we observed huge masses of snow,
or ice, in tho bottoms of them, especially in one which lies ten miles to the S.S.E. of Bird
Isle. After getting through the passage, wc found the north coast trended E. by N. for
about nine miles ; and then E. and E. southerly to Cape Duller, which is eleven miles more.
We ranged the coast, at one league distance, till near ten o'clock, when we brought to for
the night, and, on sounding, found fifty fathoms, a muddy bottom.

Jan. 1775.

J AS. 1775.

( OOKS SECOND VOYA<JI<: KOINI) TIIK WOULD.

6O7

^ymjilo places

li tliaii Hcuiiig

would linrdly

iiing tliu gnio

liniHMl till six

to tliu S. till

u'itli n rrcsli

snow-pctcri'I,

li colder than

to S.E., and

iiglit ; but nt
'I S., distant
iignins, small
lad but littlo
ubtcd that it
lioliy covered
, by finding
I at this tiinu
ecceded by a
It afterwards
th snow nnd
h, when the
ked, wo saw
35 "f". The
.0 encounter.
At half-past
md stood to
Id carry tho

ihe wind at
n E. by N,
and set tlio
ituation wo
to E., eight
id it proved
first saw it.
r us in that
to think it
lis view wo
idvanccd to
the main,
ive o'clock,

lets. It is
[)taincd the
gh, but of
ipc North.
E., and N.
s of snow,
E. of Bird
by N. for
niles more,
light to for

At two o'clock in the nioniing of tho 17tli we niiidc sail in for the land, with a (ino
breeze at S.W. ; at four, Willi.Vs [sh< Ixire W. by S., distant thirty-two miles; (';i|u)
Buller, to tho west of whieli lie nonie rocky islets, bore H,\V, by W. ; ami the most advaiUM il
jioint of laud ti> the \]., S. (ill' K. We now steenMl along the shore, at the distiiiiee of four
or fivi? miles, till seven o'clock, when, seeing the a|i|M aiaiu'e of an inlet, we hauled in for it.
As soon as we drew near the shore, having hoisted out a boat, I emiiaiiud in it, aeeonipanied
by .Mr. Forster and his party, with a view of reconnoitring tlie buy before we v.iiliiretl in
with the ship. W hen we ]nit otV from her, which was about four miles fiom the shore, wo
liad forty fathoms water. I continued to sound as I went farther in, but found no bottom
with a line of thirty-four fathoms, which was the length of that I had in the boat, and which
also ])rovt'd too short to sound tho bay, so far as I went U]) it. I observid it in lie in ."^.Vi'.
by .S. about two leagues, about two miles broad, well sheltered from all wiuils ; and I julged
there might be good anchorage before some sandy beiiehi's whieli are on each side, and
likewise near a low flat isle, towards the head of the bay. As I had come to a resolution
not to bring the ship in, I did not think it worth iny while to go ami examine tlies<' places;
for it dill not seem probable that any one would ever be benciited by the iliscoverv. I
landeil in three ditt'erent i)laces, displayed our colours, and took jiossessiou of the country in
Jiis ^lajesty's name, under a discharge of small arms. I judged that the tide rises about four
or five feet, and that it is high water on the full and change <lays about eleven o'clock.

The bead of the bay, as well as two places on each side, w.is terminated by iierpendicular
icc-clilfs of considerable height. Pieces were c(mtiniially breaking otV, and floating out to
sea; and a great fall hapju'iied while we were in the bay, which made a noise like cannon.
The inner j)arts of the country were not less savage and horrible. The wild rocks raised
their lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with ever-
lasting snow. Not a tree was to be sijcn, nor a shrub even big enough to make a toothjiiek.
Tho only vegetation wc met with was a coarse strong-bladed grass, growing in tufts, wild
burnet, and a plant like moss, which sprung from the rocks.

iSeals, or sea-be.ars, were pretty numerous. 'Jhey were smaller than those at Staten Land ;
perhaps the most of those we saw were females ; for the shore swarmed with young cubs.
Wc saw none of that sort which wc call lions ; but tlterc were some of those which tho
writer of Lord Anson's Voy.age describes under that name ; at least they appeared to us to
be of the same sort ; and are, in luy opinion, very improperly called lions ; for I could not
sec any grounds for the compaiisui. Hero were several flocks of penguins, the largest I
ever saw ; some which wc brought on board weighed from twenty-nine to thirty-eight
pounds. It appears by llougainville's account of the animals of Falkland Islands, that this
penguin is there ; and I think it is very well described by bim under the name of First Class
of Penguins*. The oceanic birds were albatrosses, common gulls, and that sort which I
call Port Egmont bens, terns, shags, divers, the new white bird, and a small bird like those
of the Ca])e of Good Hope, called yellow birds ; which, having shot two, we found most
delicious food. All the land birds we saw consisted of a few small larks ; nor did we meet
with any quadrupeds. Mr. Forster, indeed, observed some dung, which he judged to come
from a fox, or some such animal. The lands, or rather rocks, bordering on the sea-coast,
were not covered with snow like the inland parts ; but all the vegetation we could see on tho
clear pl.aces was the grass above-mentioned. The rocks seemed to contain iron. Having
made the above observations, we set out for the ship, and got on board a little after twelve
o'clock, with a quantity of seals and penguins, an acceptable ])resent to the crew.

It must not, however, be understood that we were in want of provisions : we bad yet
plenty of every kind ; and since we bad been on this coast, I bad ordered, in addition to tho
common allowance, wheat to be boiled every morning for breakfast ; but any kind of fresh
meat was preferred by most on board to salt. For my own part, I was now, for the first
time, heartily tired of salt meat of every kind ; and though the flesh of the penguins could
scarcely vie with bullock's liver, its being fresh was sutVicient to make it go down. I called
the bay we had been in. Possession Bay. It is situated in the latitude of .")4" .">' S.,
longitude 37" Ml' W., and eleven leagues to the east of Cape North. A few miles to the

* Sec yoiig;iiiiviUr, p. CI.

I!l

6G8

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1775.

west of Possession Bay, between" it and Cape Biillcr, lies the Bay of Isles ; so named on
account of several small isles lying in and before it.

As soon as the boat was hoisted in, wo made sail along the coast to the E. with a fine
breeze at W.S.AV. From Cape Biiller, the direction of the coast is S 7-" ^^O' E., for the
space of eleven or twelve leagues, to a projecting point, which obtained the name of Capo
Saunders. Beyond this Ca])e, is a pretty large bay, which I named Cumberland Bay. In
several parts in the bottom of it, as also in some others of less extent, lying between Cape
Saunders and Possession Bay, were vast tracts of frozen snow, or ice not yet broken loose.
At eight o'clock, being just past Cumberland Bay. and falling little wind, wo hauled off the
coast, from which we were distant about four miles, and found one hundred and ten fathoma

water. Wo had variable lijjht airs and calms till six o'clock the

next mornmg,

when tho

wind fixed at N. and blew a gentle breeze ; but it lasted no longer than ten o'clock, when
it fell almost to a calm. At noon, observed in latitude 54" 30' S., being then about two or
three leagues from the coast, which extended from N. 59" W. to S. 13' W. The land in
this last direction was an isle, which seemed to bo the extremity of the cotast to tho cast.
The nearest land to us being a projecting point which terminated in a round hillock, was,
on account of the day, named Cape Charlotte. On the west side of Cape Charlotte lies a
bay, which obtained tho name of Royal Bay, and the west point of it was named Capo
George. It is the cast point of Cumberland Bay, and lies in the direction of S.E. by E.
from Cape Saunders, distant seven leagues. Cape George and Cape Charlotte lie in tho
direction of S. 37" E., and N. 37" W., distant six leagues from each other. Tlie isle above
mentioned, which was called Cooper's Isle, after my first-lieutenant, lies in the direction of
S. by E., distant eight leagues from Cape Charlotte. Tho coast between them forms a large
bay, to which I gave tho name of Sandwich. The wind being variable all tho afternoon,
wo advanced but little ; in tho night it fixed at S. and S.S.W., and blew a gentle gale
nttondcd with showers of snow.

The 1 9th was wholly spent in plying, the wind continuing at S. and S.W., clear pleasant
wcatlier, but cold. At sunris(?, u new land was scon bearing S E. ?, E. It first appeared in
a single hill, like a sugar-loaf; some time after, other detached pieces appeared above the
horizon near the hill. At noon observed in the latitude 54" 42' 30" S., Capo Charlotte
bearing X. 38" W., distant fotir leagues ; and Cooper's Isle S. 31" W. In this situation, a
lurking rock, which lies off Sandwich Bay, five miles from the land, bore W. i N., distant
one mile, and near this rock were several breakers. In tho afternoon we had a prospect of
a ridge of mountains behind Sandwich Bay, whose lofty and icy summits were elevated high
above the clouds. The Avind continued at S.S.W. till six o'clock, when it fell to a calm.
At this time Cape Charlotte bore N, 3P AV., and Cooper's Island W.S.AV. In this situa-
tion we found the variation, by the azimuths, to be 11" 39', and by tho amplitude, 11" 12' E.
At ten o'clock, .i light breeze springing up at N., we steered to tho S. till twelve, and then
bi'()Uo;ht to for the night.

At two o'clock in the morning of tlic 20th, we made sail to S.W., round Cooper's Island.
It is a rock of considerable height, about five miles in circuit, a::?d one mile from the main.
At this isle the main coast takes a S.A\ . direction for the space of four or five leagues to a
point, which I called Cape Disappointment. Off that, are three small isles, the southein-
most of whicli is green, low, and fiat, and lies one league from the Caj)e. As we advanced
to S.W., .,md opened olV this point, in the diri^ction of N. GO" West, audn-nc leagues bej-ond
it. It i)roA ed an island quite ditaciicd from tho main, and obtained the name of Pickersgill
Island, after my third officer. Soon after, a point of the main, beyond this island, camu in
sight, in the direction of N. B')" W. ; which exactly united the coast at the very point wc
had seen, and *".!:"n the bearing of, tl<e day wo first came in with it, and proved to a demon-
8tratvL/ii tliat this land, which wc had taken for part of a great continent, was no more than
an island of se\enty l(>agues in circuit.

Who would have thought that an island of no greater extent than this, situated b „wccn
the latitude of 54" and C)^", should, in the very height of sumnu.', be in a manner wholly
covered many fiithonis deep with frozen snow, lint more especially the S.W. coast ? Tho
very sides and craggy summits of the lofty mountains were cased with snow and ice ; but

Jan. 1775.
30 named on

'. with a fine
)' E., for the
imp of Capo
id Bay. In
ctwccn Cape
jrokcn loose,
allied off the

ten fathoms
ig, wlien the
clock, when
ihout two or

Tlie land in
t to the east,
hillock, was,
irlotte lies a
named Capo
r S.E. by E.
te lie in the
le isle above
; direction of
'orms a large
lie afternoon,
. gentle gale

Icar pleasant
; appeared in
ed above the
ie Ciiarlotte
situation, a
N., distant

I prospect of
levated high

II to a calm,
n this situa-
e, II'12'E.
k-e, and then

ler's Island,
n the main,
leagues to a
ic southein-
vo advanced
[^ues beyond
f Pickersgill
nd, camu in
ry point wo
o a demon-
) more than

cd b vwcen
mer wholly
oast? Tho
id ice : but

Jan. 1775.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

5(19

the quantity which lay in the valleys is incredible ; and at the bottom of the bays, the coast
was terminated by a wall <if ico of cousiderablo height. It can hardly be doubted that a
great deal of ice is formrd here in the winter, which in the spring is broken otV and dispersed
over the sea ; but this island cannot produce the ten thousandth part of what we saw ; so
that either there must be more land, or tho ice is fitrnied without it. Tiicsr reflections led mo
to think that the land we had seen the preceding day might belong to an extensive tract ;
and I still had hopes of discovering a continent. I must confess the disappointment I now
met with did not affect me much, for to judge of the bulk by the sample, it would not be
worth the discovery.

I called tliis land the Isle of Georgia, in honour of his ]\Iajesty. It is situated between
the latitude of r»3" 57' and '. l' u7' S. ; and between 3»" 1.3' and '3't' HI' "\V. longitude. It
extends iS.E. by E., and X.\V. by W. and is thirty-one leagues long in that direction ; and
its greatest brea Itli is nbout ten leagues. It seems to abound with bays and harbours, tho
N.E. coast especially ; but tho vast quantity of ice must render them inaccessible the greatest
p.art of the year ; or, at least, it must bo dangerous lying in them, on account of tho break-
ing up of the ice-cliffs.

It is remarkable that wc did not see a river or stream of fress-'. water, on tlu whole coast.
I think it highly probable that there are no perennial springs in the country ; and that the
interior parts, as being much elev.ated, never enjoy heat enough to melt the snow in such
quantities as to produce a river or stream of water. The coast alone receives warmth
suffio'cnt to melt the snow, and this only on tho N.E. side ; for the other, besides being
exposed to the cold south winds, is in a great degree deprived of the sun's r.ays by the
uncommon height of the mountains. It was from a persuasion that the sea-coast of a land
situated in the latitude of .')4" could n it, in the very height of summer, be wholly covered
with snow, that I supposed Bouvet's discovery to be large islands of ice. But after I had
seen this land, I no longer hesitated about tho existence of Cape Circumcision ; nor did I
doubt that I should find more land than I sliould have time to explore. With these ideas
I quitted this coast, .ind directed my course to the E.S.E. for the land wc had seen the
preceding day.

The wind was very variable till noon, when it fixed .at N.N.E., and blew a gentle g.ilc;
but it increased in such a manner, that, before three o'clock, we were reduced to our two
^.'oin-ses, and obliged to strike top-g.allaiit y.ards. Wo were very fortunate in getting cle.ar
of liie land before this gtile overtook us, it being hard to say what might have been the
conso(]uence had it come on while wc were on the north coast. This storm was of short
duration, for at eight o'clock it began to abate, and at midnight it was little wind. ''Tc
then took the opportunity to sound, but found no bottom with a lino of a hundred and
eighty fathoms. Next d.iy the storm was succeeded by a thick fog, attended with rain ;
tho wind veerea to N.AV., and at five in tli2 morning it fell calm, which continued til! eight,
and then we got a breeze southerly, witii which we stood to the east till three in tlic after-
noon. The weather then coming somewhat clear, we made sail and steered north in search
of the land ; hue at half-past six we were again involved in a thick mist, which made it
necessary to ha'.il the wind, and spend the night in making short boards.

We had variable Hyht airs, next to a calm, and thick foggy we.nther, till half-past seven
o'clock in tlu cvjning of the 22nd, when we got a fine brcczo at N., and the weather was
so clear th.at we could see two or three ? ^guos round us. We seized the opjjortunity, and
steered to west ; judging wc wire to the east of the land. After lunning ten miles to tho
west, the weather became again foggy, and we hauled the wind, and sjicnt the night under
top-sails. Next morning, at six o'clock, the fog clearing away, so that we could see three
or four miles, I took the opportunity to steer again to the W., with the wind at E., a fresh
breeze ; but two hours after, a thick fog once more obliged us to haul the wind to the south.
At eleven oVlock, a short interval of dear weather gave us a view of three or four rocky
islets, extending from S.E. to E.N.E., two or three miles distant ; but wc did not see the
Hugar-loaf I'eak before mentioned. Indeed, two or three miles was the extent of our
horizon. We were well assured th.at this was tho land we had seen before, • hiih we had
now been quite round: and therefore it could be no more than a few dn-ached rocks.

670

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Jan. 1775.

receptacles for birds, of wliich w'e now saw vast numbers, especially shags, who gave us no
notice of the vicinity of Land before we saw it. These rocks lie in the latitude of 55" S. and
S. 75° E., distant twelve leagues from Coopers Isle.

The interval of clear weather was of very short duration, before wo had as thick a fog as
ever, attended with rain ; on which wo tacked in sixty fathoms water, and stood to tlie
north. Thus we spent our time involved in a continual thick mist ; and for auglit we knew,
surrounded by dangerous rocks. The shags and soundings w.tc our best pilots; for after
we liiid stood a few miles to the north, we got out of soundings, and saw no more shags.
The succeeding day and night were 3i)ent in making short boards ; and at eight o'clock on
the 24th, judging ourselves not far from the rocks by some straggling shags which came
about us, we sounded in sixty fathoms water, the bottom atones and broken shells. Soon
after we saw the rocks bearing S.S. W. '. W., four miles distant, but still wo did not see the
Peak. It was, no doubt, beyond our horizon, which was limited to a short distance ; and,
indeed, we had but a transient sight of the otlur rocks, before they were again lost in the
fog. With a light air of wind at N., and a great swell froni N.E., we were able to clear
the rocks to the W. ; and at four in the p.m., judging ourselves to be three or four leagues
E. and W. of them, I steered S., being quite tired with cruising about them in a thick fog ;
nor was it worth my while to spend any more time in waiting for clear weather, only for
the sake of having a good sight of a few straggling rocks. At seven o'clock, wc had at
intervals a clear sky to the \V., which gave us a sight of the mountains of the Isle of
Georgia, bearing "NV.N.AV., about eight leagues distant. At eight o'clock we steered S.E.
by S. and at ten S.E. by E., with a fresh breeze at N., attended with a very thick fog; but
we were, in some measure, acquainted with the sea over which wo were running, "^'l-.o
rocks above mentioned obtained the name of Gierke's Rocks, after my second officci', ' >
being the first who saw them.

CHAPTER VI. — PROCEEDINGS AFTER LEAVING THE ISIE OF GEORGIA, AND AN ACCOUNT OP THE
DISCOVERY OF SANDWICH LAND; WITH SO.ME REASONS FOR THERE llEING LAND ABOUT
THE SOUTH POLE.

Oh the 25th we steered E.S.E., with a fresh gale at N.N.E., attended with foggy
weather, till towards the evening, when the sky becoming clear, we found the variation to
be 0" 2(5' E., being at this time in the latitude of 5{)' ]G' S., longitude 32" 9' W. Having
continued to steer E.S.E., with a fine gale at N.N.W., till daylight next morning, on
seeing no land to the E., I gave orders to steer S., being at this time in the latitude of
56° 1^3' S., longitude 31" 10' W. The weather continued clear, and gave us an opportunity
to observe .several distances of the sun and moon for the correcting our longitude, which at
noon was 31" 4' W., the latitude observed 57" 5W S. We co,. tinned to steer to the S. till
the 27th at noon, at wliich time we were in the latitude of 50' 4(5' S., and had so thick a
foof that we could not see a shipV -length. It being no longer safe to sail before the wind, as
we were to expect soon to fall in with ice, I therefore hauled to the E., havinn; .". gentle
breeze at N.N.E. Soon after, the fog clearing away, we resumed our course to the S. till
four o'clock, when it returned again as thick as ever, and made it necessary for us to haul
upon a wind.

I no" reckoned we were in latitude CO" S., and fiirther I did not intend to go, unless I
observed some certain signs of soon meeting with land ; for it would not have been prudent
in me to have spent my time in penetrating to the south, when it was at least as probable
that a large tract of land might be found near Cape Circumcision. Besides, I was tired of
th;.a J high soutiie ' latitudes, where nothing was to be found but ice and thick fogs. We had
now a lonsr hollow swell from the W., a stronjj indication that there was no land in that
direction ; so that I think I may venture to assert that the extensive coast, laid down in
Mr. Dalrymple's chart of the ocean between Africa and America, and the Gulf of Saint
Sebastian, does not exist.

At seven o'clock in the evening, the fog receding from us a little, gave us a sight of an ice-

Li 'till!

Jan. 1775

Jan. 1775.

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

S71

if 55" S. and

lick a fog as
tood to the
it we knew,
ts ; for after
more sliajis.
it o'clock on
wliicli came
lells. Soon
[ not see tlie
tancc ; and,
11 lost in the
nble to clear
four leagues
n thick fog ;
ler, only for
:, wc had at
f the Isle of
steered S.E.
ick fog; but
ining. "j'hn
li officer, >■■'

lUNT OF THE
^,AND ABOUT

with foggy
variation to
Having
Horning, on

latitude of
opportunity
which at
o the S. till

so thick a

le wind, as
inp; n, j^cntlo
the S. till

us to haul

50, unless I
en prudent

as probable

ivas tired of
s. We had

and in that
id down in

If of Saint

,t of an ice-

island, several penguins and some snow petcrels ; we sounded, but found no ground at one
hundred and forty fathoms. The fog soon returning, wc spent the night in making boards
over that s,acc which we had, in some degi'ee, made ourselves acquainted with in the day.
At eight in the morning of the SfUh, we stood to the Iv, with a gentle gale at N. ; tlio
weather began to clear up, and wc found the sea strewed with large and small ice ; several
penguins, snow peterels. and other birds were seen, and some whales. JSoon after we bad
sunshine, but the air was cold ; the mercury in the thernKjiiieter stood generally at thirty-
five, but at noon it was at M7° ; the latitude by observation was U')^ 4' S., longitude
29^ 2'A' W.

AVe continued to stand to the E. till half-past two o'clock r. m., when we fell in, all at
once, with a vast number of large ice-islands, and a sea strewed with loose ice. The weather
too was become thick and hazy, attended with drizzling rain and sleet, which made it the
more dangerous to stand in among the ice. For this reason we tacked and stood back to
the W., with the wind at N. The ice-islands, which at this time surrounded us, were nearly
all of equal height, tand showed a flat even surface ; but they were of various extent, some
being two or three miles in circuit. The loose ice was what had broken from these isles.
Next morning, the wind falling and veering to S.W., wc steered N.E., but this cojjrse was
soon intercepted by numerous ice-islands ; and, having but very little wind, we were obliged
to steer such courses as carried us the clearest of them ; so that wc hardly made any advance,
one way or other, during the whole day. Abundance of whales an^T penguins were about
Ua all tlie time ; and the weather fair, but dark and gloomy.

At midnight the wind began to freshen at N.N.E., with which we stood to N.W. till six
in the morning of the 30th, when the wind veering to N.N.W., we tacked and stood to N.E.,
and soon after sailed through a good deal of loose ice, and passed two large islands. Except
a short interval of clear weather about nine o'clock, it was continually foggy, with either
slcct or snow. At noon we were, by our reckoning, in the latitude of 51)^ ;i(>' S., longitude
29" 2-4' AV. Continuing to stand to N.E., with a fresh breeze at N.N.W., ut two o'clock,
wc passed one of the largest ice-islands wc had seen in the voyage, and sc.i.c time after
])assed two otherS; which were much smaller. Weather still foggy, with sleet ; and the
wind continued at N. by W., with which wo stood to N.E. over a sea strewed with ice.

At half an hour past six in the morning, as we were standing N.N.E. with the wind at
W., the fog very fortunately clearing away a little, we discovered land a-hcad, three or four
miles distant. On this we hauled the wind to the N., but finding we could not weather the
land on this tack, we soon after tacked in one hundred and seventy-five fathoms water, three
miles from the shore, and about half a league fr m some breakers. The weather then cleared
lip a little more, and gave us a tolerably good sight of the land. That which we had fallen
in with proved three rocky islets of considerable height. The outermost terminated in a
lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, and obtained the name of Frc" leland Peak, after the man who
first discovered it. Latitude 59" S., longitude 27" W. Behind this peak, that is, to the east
of it, appeared an elevated coast, whose lofty snow-clad summits were seen above the clouds.
It extended from N. by E. to E.S.E. and I called it Cape Bristol, in honojir of the noble
family of llervoy. At the same time another elevated coast appeared in sight, bearing
S.W. by S., and at noon it extended from S.E. toS.S.W., from forr'.o eight lengues distant ;
at this time the observed latitude was 59" 13' 30'' S., longitude 2/" 45' W. I called this
land Southern Thulc, because it is the most southern land that has ever yet been discovered.
It shows a surface of vast height, and is evervvvherc covered with snow. Some thoufht
they saw land in the space between Tbule and Cape Bristol. It is more than probable
that these two lands are connected, and that this space is a deep bay, which I called Forstcr\
Bay.

At vine o'clock, finding that wo could not weather Tluile, we tacked and stood to the
north, and at fcur, Freezeland Peak bore E., distant three or four leagues. Soon after it fell
little wind, and we were left to the mercy of a great westerly swell, which set right upon
the shore. We sounded, but a line of two hundred fathoms found no bottom. At eight
o''clock, the weather, which had been very hazy, clearing up, wc saw Cape Bristol bearing
E.S.E., and terminating in a point to the north, beyond whicli wc could sec no land. This

572

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

FEn. 1773.

discovery relieved iis from the fear of being carried by the swell on the most horrible coast
in the world, and wo continued to stand to the north all night, with a light breeze at W,

On the 1st of February, at four o'clock in the morning, we got sight of a new coast, which
at six o'clock bore N. (»()' ]•]. It proved a high ])roniontory, which I named Capo Montagu,
situated in latitude ofj" 27' S., longitude 26" 44' W., and seven or eight leagues to tlie north
of Cape Bristol. We saw land from space to space between them, which made me conclude
that liio whole was connected. I was sorry I could not determine this with greater cer-
tainty ; but prudence would not permit mo to venture near a coast, subject to thick fogs, on
which there was no anchorage ; where every port was blocked or filled up with ice ; and the
whole country, from the summits of the mountains, down to the very brink of the cliffs which
terminate the coast, covered, many fathoms thick, with everlasting snow. The clitls alono
was all which was to be seen like land. Several largo islands lay upon the coast ; one of
which attracted my notice. It had a flat surface, was of considerable extent both in height
and circuit, and had perpendicular sides, on which the waves of the sea had made no impres-
sion ; by which I judged that it had not been long from land, and that it might have lately
come out of some bay on the coast, where it had been formed.

At noon we were east and west of the northern part of Cape Montagu, distant about five
leagues, and Freezeland Peak bore S. 10" E., distant twelve leagues; latitude observed
58" 25' S. In the morninfr the variation was 10" II' E. At two in the afternoon, as wo
were standing to the nort >i*h a light breeze at S.W. we saw land bearing N. 25' E.,
distant fourteen leagues. L :, itagu bore at this time, S. GO" E. ; at eight it bore S.

40" E. ; Cape Bristol, S. by 1:,. lo new land extending from N. 40" to 52° E. ; and wc
thought wc saw land still more to the E., and beyond it. Continuing to steer to the north
all night, at six o'clock the next morning a now land was seen, bearing N. 12° E., about ten
leagues distant. It appeared in two hummocks just peeping above the horizon ; but we soon
after lost sight of them ; and having got the wind at N^.N.E., a fresh breeze, we stood for the
northernmost land we had seen the day before, which at this time bore E.S.E. AVc fetched
in witli it by ten o'clock, but could not weather it, and were obliged to tack three miles
from tlie coast, which extended from E. by S. to S.E., and had much the appearance of
being an island of about eight or ten leagues' circuit. It shows a surface of considerable
height, whose summit was lost in tlie clouds, and, like all the neighbouring lands, covered
with a sheet of snow and ice, except on a projecting point on the north side, and two hills
seen over this point, which probably might bo two islands. These only were clear of snow,
and seemed covered with a green turf. Some large ice-islands lay to the N.E., and some
others to the S, We stood off till noon, and then tacked for the land again, in order to see
whether it was an island or no. The weather was now become very hazy, wiiich soon
turning to a t'.iek fog, put a stop to discovery, and made it unsafe to stand for tlie shore ;
so that after having run the same distance in, as we had run off, wc tacked and stood to
N.W. for the land wc had seen in the morning, which was yet at a considerable distance.
Thus wo were obliged to leave the other, under the supposition of its being an island, which
I named Saimders, after my honourable friend Sir Charles. It is situated in the latitude of
57' 4!)' S., longitude 2{)' 44' W. ; and N., distant thirteen leagues from Capo jMontagu.

At six o'clock in the evening, the wind shifting to the W., we tacked, and stood to the
N., and at eight, the fog clearing away, gave us a sight of Saunders's Isle, extending from
S.E. by S. to E.S.E. We were still in doubt if it were an island ; for, at this time, land
was seen bearing E. by S., which might, or might not, be connected with it ; it might also
be the same that we had seen the preceding evening. But, be this as it may, it was now
necessary to take a view of the land to the north, before wc proceeded any farther to the
east. With this intention we stood to the nortli, having a light breeze at W. by S., which,
at two o'clock in the morning of tlio 3rd, was succeeded by a calm that continued till eight,
when we got tlic wind at 1"^. by S., attended with hazy weather. At this time we saw tho
land we were looking for, and which proved to ho two isles. TIio day on which they were
discovered, was the occasion of calling them Candlemas Isles; latitude 57" II' S., longitude

27" ()
snow.

\V. They are of no great extent, but of considerable height, and were covered with
A small rock was seen between them, and perhaps there may bo more ; for tho

FKn. 1775.

orriblc coast
;zo at AV.
3oast, whicli
10 Jlontagii,
to tlio nortli
me concludo
greater cer-
lick fogs, on
cc ; and tlio
clitfs wliich
clitts alono
jast ; one of
th in lieiirht
J no iniprea-
liave lately

it about five
idc observed
noon, as wo
; N. 25' E.,
lit it bore S.
E. ; and wo
to tlic north
]., about ten
but we soon
itood for the
We fetched
three miles
ipoaranee of
considerable
uls, covered
id two hills
ar of snow,
, and some
order to see
wliicli soon

• the shore ;
,nd stood to
)le distance,
and, which

latitude of
ontagu.
itood to the
nding from
I time, land
might also
it was now
rthcr to the

• S., which,
I till eight,
wo saw tho

they were
longitude
)vcred with
ro; for tho

Fkb. 1776.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Oli

weather was so hazy that wi^ soon lost sight of the islands, and did not see them again till
noon, at which time tlu y bore ^V., dirstant tlireo or four hii^'ucs.

As tlio wind kept veering to the S., we were (ibligcd to stand to tho N.E., in which route we
met with several large ice-islands, loose ice, and many penguins ; and, at midnight, came at
once into water uncommonly white, which alarmed tlie otVicer ot tho watch so much tliat lie
tacked the ship instantly. Some tliought it was a float of ice, others that it was shallow
water; but as it proved neither, jirobably it was a shoal of fish. We stood to the aoutii till
two o'clock next morning, when we resumed our course to the E., witii a faint b.-ceze at
.>.8.E., which having ended in a calm, at six, I took tlie opportunity of jmtting a hoiit in
tho water to try if there were any cnrront ; and the trial proved there was none. Some
whales were playing about nsi, and abundance of penguins; a few of the latter were shot,
and they proved to be of tlicsamc sort tliat we had c-ccn among the ice before, and dillcrent
both from thosc on Staten Land, and from those at tlie Isle of Georgia. It is remarkable,
that we had not seen a seal since we left that coast. At noon we were in the latitude of
.Gi)" 44' S,, longitude 2.7' .SS' "NV. At this time we got a breeze at E., with which we stood
to the S., with a view of [lainin" the coast we had left ; but at eijrht o'clock the wind
shifted to the S., and made it necessary to tack and stand to the E. ; in which course we
met with several ice-islands and some loose ice, the weather continuing hazy with snow
and rain.

No penguins were seen on the ")th, which made me conjecture that wc were leaving tiio
land behind us, and that wc had already seen its northern extremity. At noon we were in
the latitude of .57" 8' S., longitude 2.'f' .']4' W., which was .3" of longitude to tho east of
Saunders's Isle. In the afternoon the wind shifted to the W., this enabled us to strctcli to
the S., and to get into tho latitude of the land, that, if it took an east direction, we might
again fall in with it. We continued to steer to the S. and .S.E. till next day at noon, at which
time wc were in the Latitude of fiR" l.**' S., longitude 21" IM' W., and seeing neither land nor
signs of any, I concluded th.at what wc had seen, which I named Sandwich Land, was
cither a group of islands, or else a point of the continent ; for I firmly believe that there is
a tract of land near the i)olc which istho source of most of the ice that is spread over this
vast Southern Ocean. I also think it probable that it extends farthest to the north opposite
the southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans, because ice was always found by us farther to the
north in these oceans than anywhere else, whicli I judge could not be, if there were not land
to the S. ; I mean a land of considerable extent. For if wc suppose that no such land exists,
and that ice may be formed without it, it will follow of course that the cold ought to be
everywhere nearly equal round the pole, as far as 70" or (10" of latitude, or so far as to be
beyond the influence of any of the known continents ; consequently wc ought to see ico
everywhere under the same parallel, or near it ; and yet the contrary has been found.
Very few ships have met with ice going round Capo Horn ; and we saw but little below
the sixtieth degree of latitude, in the Southern Pacific Ocean. Whereas in this ocean,
between the meridian of 40" W. and 50' or GO" E., we found ice as far N. as 51'. Bouvet
met with some in 48' ; and others have seen it in a much lower latitude. It is true,
however, that the greatest part of this southern continent (supposing there is one) must lie
within lie polar circle, where the sea is so pestered with ice that the land is thereby
inaccesM Ic *. The risk one runs in exploring a coast, in these unknown and icy seas, is so
very great, that I can be bold enough to say that no man will ever venture farther than
I have done ; and that the lands which may lie to the south will never be explored. Thick
fogs, snow-storms, intense cold, and every other thing that can render navigation dangerous,
must be encountered ; and these difficulties are greatly heightened by the inexpressibly

• Tlio rcailer will find a short sketch of the progress round Cape Horn," and yet the prcscnrc of iho (rrnnp

of antarctic discovery, since the time of Cook, in tho known as the South Sliitlands, discovered hy Captain

Appendix. This, as far as it has yet proceeded, for we Smith, would, if the theory were true, have oicisioiied

know not yet what may bo the iiltimato result of the ex- tlio piesenrc of fields of ice. This question v.iil be

pcdition now at sea under the command of Capt. J. C. necessarily discussed nrnrc at large in the Appemlix, and

Ross, is very far from confirming Capt. Cook's opinion to pursue it further in this place would bo superfluous. —

that the absence of ico indicated an absence of laud. Ed.
" Very few ships,'' he remaiks, "have wet with ice going

674

COOKS SLoOM) VOYAGE ROUND THE \VOIlLD.

Feb. 1775.

^ .!

horrid aspect of the country ; U country doomed hy nature never once to feel the warmth
of the sun's rays, hut to lie buried in everlasting snow .and ice. The ports which may be
on the coast, are, in a manner, wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast thickness; but if
any siiould be so far ()i)en as to invito a ship into it, she would run a risk of being fixed
tiicre for ever, or of coming out in an ice-island. The islands and floats on the coast, the
great falls from the ice-cliffs in the port, or a licavy snow-storm attended with a sharp frost,
would be equally fatal.

After such an cxjvl.vnatlon as this, the reader must not expect to find me much farther to
the south. It was, however, not for want of inclination, but for other reasons. It would
have been rashness in mc to have risked all that had been done during the voyage, in
discovering and exploring a coast, which, when discovered and exploreu, would Iiave
answered no ^nd whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or geography,
or, indeed, to any other science. Bouvet's discovery was yet before us, the existence of
which was to be cleared up ; and besides all this, we were not now in a condition to under-
take great things ; nor indeed was there time, had we been ever so well provided. These
reasons induced mc to alter the course to E., with a very strong gale at N., attended with
an exceedingly heavy fall of snow. The quantity which lodged in our sails was so great,
that we were freqiiently obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it out of them,
otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported the weight. In the evening it
ceased to snow; the weather cleared up; the wind backed to the VV. ; and we spent the
night in making two short boards, under close-reefed topsails and foresail.

At daybreak on the 7th, we resumed our course to the E., with a very fresh gale at S.W.
by W., attended by a high sea from the same direction. In the afternoon, being in the
latitude of 58" 24' S., longitude 10" 19' W., the variation was 1" 52' E. Only three ice-
islands seen this day. At eight o'clock, shortened sail, and hauled the wind to the S.E. for
the night, in which we had several showers of snow and sleet.

On the 8th, at daylight, we resumed our east cojirsc with a gentle breeze and fair weather.
After sunrise, being then in the latitude of 58" .30' S., longitude 15" 14' W., the variation,
by the mean results of two compasses, was 2" 43' E. These observations were more to be
depended on than those made the night before, there being much less sea now than then.
In the afternoon we passed three ice-islands. This night was spent as the preceding. At
six next morning, being in the latitude of 58° 27 S., longitude 13" 4' W., the variation
was 20' E., and in the afternoon, being in the same latitude, and about a quarter of a
degree more to the E., it was 2' W. Therefore this last situation must be in or near the
line in which the compass has i;j variation. We had a calm the most part of loe day.
The weather fair and clear, excepting now and then a snow shower. The mercury in the
thermometer at noon rose to 40 ; whereas for several days before, it had been no higher
th.in 30 or 38. We had several ice-islands in sight, but no one thing that could induce us
to think that any land was in our neighbourhood. At eight in the evening, a breeze sprung
up at S.E., with which we stood to N.E.

During the night the wind freshened and veered to south, which enabled us to steer east.
The wind was attended with showers of sleet and snow till daylight, when the weather
became fair, but piercing cold, so that the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the
mercury in the thermometer was no higher than 34^. At six o'clock in the morning,
the variation was 23' west, being then in the latitude of 58" 15' S., longitude 11* 41' W.,
and at six in the evening, being in the same latitude, and in the longitude of 9" 24' W., it
was 1° 51' VV. In the evening the wind abated ; and during the night it was variable
between south and west. Ice-islands continually in sight.

On the lltli, wind westerly, light airs attended with heavy showers of snow in the
morning ; but, as the day advanced, the weather became fair, clear, and serene. Still
continuing to steer east, at noon we observed in latitude 58' 1 1', longitude at the same time
7'' 55' west. Thermometer 34|v. In the afternoon we had two hours' calm, after which we
had faint breezes between the N.E. and S.E. At six o'clock in the morning of the 12th,
being in the latitude of 58" 23' S., longitude 6" 54' W., the variation was 3" 23' W. We
had variable light airs next to a calm all this day, and the weather was fair and clear till

Feb. 1775.

fkii. i?:.").

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

575

le warmth
ch may bo
Dss ; hut if
)ciiig fixed
! coniit, tho
harp frost,

farther to
It wouhl
voyage, in
ouKl have
Tcography,
cistence of
I to umler-
;d. These
iiided with
,s so great,
t of them,
evening it
spent the

Ic at S.W.
ing in tlie
three ice-
lie S.E. for

ir weather.

; variation,

more to be

than then.

jdinjr. At

3 variation

arter of a

)r near the

f Kie day.

iry in tlie

no higher

induce us

cze sprung

steer oast,
weather
noon tlie
morning,

41' W.,
24' VV., it

variable

)w in tho
ne. Still
same time
which we
the 12th,
W. \\e

1 clear till

towards the evening, when it became cli>udy, with snow showers, and the air very cold.
Ice-islands continually in sinht ; most of them small and breaking to jtieces.

In the aftern()<iii of the llUh tlio wind increased, the sky became clouded, and soon after
we had a very heavy fall of snow, which continued till <ij^lit or nine o'clock in the evening,
when the wind abating and veering to tho .S.E., the !«ky cleared up, and we had a fair niglit,
attended witli sso sharp a frost, that the water in all our vessels on deck was next morning
covered with a sheet of ice. The mercury in the thermometer was as low as i2!)", which is
;{" below freezing, or rather 4 ; for wo generally found tho water freeze when the mercury
stood at ;{;{". Towards noon on the ]4lh, the wind veering to the south, increased to a very
strong gale, and blew in heavy squalls, attended v/jth snow. At intervals, between tho
squalls, tho weather was f;iir iiiid clear, but exceedingly cold. Wv continued to steer
cast, inclining a little to tiie north, and in tho afternoon crossed the first meridian, or
that of Greenwich, in the latitude of r»7" i">0' S. At eight in the evening we close reefed
the topsails, took in the mainsail, and steered east, with a very hard gale at S.S. W., with
a high s(!a from the same direction.

At daybreak on the ir>th we set the mainsail, loosed a reef out of each topsail, and with
a very strong gale at S.\\'. and fair weather, steered E.N.l''. till noon, at which time wo
were in the latitude of .'i(i" .'{7 f^-, longitude 4" 11' east, when wo ])ointed to the X.l'l., in
order to get into the latitude of Cape Circumcision. Some large ice-islands were in sight, and
the air was nearly as cold as on tlu^ preceding day. At eight o'clock in the evening, shortened
sail, and at eleven hauled the wind to the N. W^., not daring to stand on in the night, which
was foggy, with snow-showers, and a smart frost. At daybreak on tho Kith wo bore away
N.E. with a light breeze at west, which, at noon, was succeeded by a calm and fair weather.
Our latitude at this time was C}'t" 2(5' S., longitude o" ,'»2' east, in which situation we had
a great swell from the southward, but no ice in sight. At one o'clock in tho v.ii., a breeze
springing up at E.N.E., we stood to S.E. till six, then tacked and stood to the north, under
double-reefed topsails and courses, having a very fresh gale, attended with snow and sleet,
which fixed to the masts and riwinrf as it fill, and coated the whole with ice. On tho
17th tho wind continued veering by little and little to tho scmth till midnight, when it
fixed at S.W. Being at this time in the latitude of r»4" 20 S., longitude 0" ',V,\ cast,
I steered east, having a prodigious high sea fi'om the south, which assured us no land was
near in that direction.

In the morning of the IRth it ceased to snow; tho weather became fair and clear; and
we found the variation to bo 13" 44' west. At noon we were in tho latitude .'>4" 2"*',
lonL.itude H" 4G' cast. I thought this a good latitude to keep in, to look for Capo Circum-
cision ; because, if the land had ever so little extent in the direction of north and south, wc
could not miss seeing it, as the northern point is said to lie in o4". Wo had yet a great
swell from the south, so that 1 was now well assured it could only he an island ; and it was
of no consequence which side we fell in with. In the evening Mr. Wales made several
observations of the moon, and stars Regulus and Spica ; the mean results, at four o'clock,
when the observations were made, for finding tho time by the watch, gave D" 15' 20" east
longitude. The watch at the same time gave {)" 30' 45". Soon after the variation was
found to be 13° 10' west. It is nearly in this situation that Mr. Bouvct had 1" east. I
cannot suppose that the variation has altered so much since that time ; but rather think he
had made some mistake in his obscr .itions. That there could be none in onrs was certain,
from the uniformity for some time past. Besides, we found 12" 0' west, variation, nearly
under this meridian, in January, 1773. During the night the wind veered round by the
N. W. to N.N.E., and blew a fresh gale.

At eight in the morning of the 19tli, we saw the appearance of land in the direction of
E. by S., or that of our course ; but it proved a mere fog-bank, and soon after dispersed.
Wo continued to steer E. by S. and S.E. till seven o'clock in the evening, when, being in
the latitude of M^ 42' S., longitude 13" 3' E., and the wind having veered to N.E., wo
tacked and stood to N.W. under close-reefed topsails and courses; having a very strong
gale, attended with snow-showers. At four o'clock next morning, being in the latitude of
54" 30' S., longitude 12" 33' E., we tacked and stretched to N.E. with a fresh gale at S.W.,
attended with snow-showers and sleet. At noon, being in the latitude of 54" 8' S., longitude

i-O

57C

COOK'S SFX'OND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Fku. 1774.

ti,

12" ;V.)' E., with a frisli galo at-AV. by N., niul tolerably clear weather, we steered E. till
ten (I'cloek in the evening, when we brougbt-to, lest we might pass any land in the night,
of which we, however, had not the least signr*. At daybreak, having made sail, we bore
away oast, and at noon observed in latitude r»4" KJ' S., longitude 1(5" \',Y E., which is 5" to
the east of the longitude in which Cape Circumcision is said to lie ; so that wo began to
think there was no such land in existence. I, iiowever, continued to steer east, inclining
a little to the south, till four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, when wo wcro in
htitude of .>4" 24 S., longitude 10" 10' E.

We ha<l now run down thirteen degrees of longitude, in the very latitude assigned for
Bouvet's Land ; I was therefore well assured that what he had ^^een could be nothing but
an island of ice ; for, if it had been laud, it is hardly jjossible we could have missed it,
thougli it were ever so small, liesides, from the tinio of leaving the southern lands, we had
not met with the least signs of any other. IJut even suppose we had, it would have been
no proof of the existence of Cape Circumcision ; for I am well assured that neither seals,
nor jHuguins, nor any of the oceanic birds, arc indubitable signs of the vicinity of laiul.
I will allow that they arc found on the coasts of all these southern lands ; but are they not
also to be found in all parts of the southern ocean ? There aiv, however, some oceanic or
aquatic birds which point out the vicinity of land ; especially shags, which seldom go out
of sight of it ; and ganncts, boobies, and men-of-war birds, I believe, seldom go very far
out to sea.

As we were now no more than two degrees of longitude from our route to the south,
when we left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no purpose to proceed any further to the
ea?;t under this parallel, knowing that no land could be there. But an opportunity now
offering of clearing uj) some' doubts of our having seen land farther to the south, I
sttxrcd S.E. to get into the situation in which it was supposed to lie. AYc continued this
course till four o'clock the next morning, and then S.E. bj' E. and E.S.E. till eight in the
evening, at which time wc were in the latitude of 5")° 2.*' S., longitude 23^ 22' E., both
dc*duced from observations made the same day; for, in the morning, the sky was clear at
IT cTvals, and afforded an oppcrtunity to observe several distances of the sun and moon,
which we had not been able to do for some time past, having had a constant succession of
bad weather. Having now run over the place where the land was supposed to lie, without
seeing the least signs of any, it was no longer to bo doubted but that the ice islands had
deceived us as well as IMr. Bouvet. The wind by this time having veered to the north, and
increased to a perfect storm, attended as usual with snow and sleet, wc handed the top-sails,
and liauled up E.N.E. under the courses. During the night the wind abated, and veered
to y.AV., which enabled us to steer more to the north, having no business farther south.

CHAPTER VII. HEADS OF WHAT HAS BEEN PONE IN THE VOYAGE ; WITH SOME CONJECTUKES

- COXCERXINO THE FORMATION OP ICE ISLANDS; AND AN ACCOUNT OP OLR PROCEEDINGS TILL
OCR ARRIVAL AT TUE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

I HAD now made the circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in
such a manner as to leave not the least room for the possibility of there being a continent,
unless near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea,
I had not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many new ones,
and left, I conceive, very little more to be done even in that part. Thus I flatter myself
that the intciition of the voyage has, in every respect, been fully answei'cd ; the southern
hemisphere sufficiently explored ; and a final end put to the searching after a southern con-
tinent, which has, at times, engrossed the attention of some of the maritime powers for near
two centuries past, and been a favourite theory amongst the geographers of all ages. That
there may be a continent, or large tract of land, near the pole, I will not deny ; on tho
contrary, I am of opinion there is ; and it is probable that wo have seen a part of it. The
excessive cold, the many islands and vast floats of ice, all tend to prove tluvt there must be
land to the south ; and for my persuasion that this southern laud must lie, or extend,
farthest to the north, opposite to the Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans, I have already

Feb. 1774.

.'010(1 E. till
II the ni<^1it,
!iil, we bore
liicli is r»" to
ivc began to
nt, inclining
wo wero in

iissignetl for
jotliing but
13 niissiMl it,
lids, wo liad
.1 have been
cither seals,
ity of land,
ire tliey not
e oceanic or
doni go out
go very far

the south,
rthcr to the
•tnuity now
ic south, I
utinued this
eight in the
12' E., both
was clear at

1 and moon,
kccession of

ic, without

slands had

north, and

10 top-sails,

and veered

south.

)NJECTI:KE9
UI>'GS TILL

erscd it in

continent,

ropical sea,

new ones,

ttcr myself

southern

thern con-

rs for near

jes. That

y ; on tho

f it. The

c must be

or extend,

vc already

Fkb. 1775.

COOK'S SKCOXD VOYACJK UOl'NU THE WOULD.

assigned sonic reasons; to which I may aild the greater degree of cold exj)erieneed by us in
these seas, than in the Southern Pacific Ocean under the same |)ariiilels of liititude.

In this last ocean, the mercury in the tlieriiiometer seldom fell so low as the freezing-
point, till we were in (i()' and upwards ; whereas in the others it fell .is low in tlu? latitude
of .'i4°. Tills Wiis certainly owing to there being a greater quantity of ice, and to its
extending farther to the north, in tliese two seas than in the South I'acifle ; and if ice bo
first formed at, or near land, of which I have no doubt, it will follow that the land also
extends farther north.

The formation or coagulation of ice islands has not, to my knowledge, been thoroughly
invcstigati'd. Some have supposed them to be formetl by the freezing of the water at the
mouths of large rivers, or great cataracts, where they acenmulate till they are broken off
by their own weight. My observations will not allow mo to acquiesce in this opinion ;
because we never found any of the ice which we took up incorporated with earth, or any of
its produce, as I think it must have been, had it been coagulated in land waters. It is a
doubt with me, whether there be any rivers in these countries. It is certain, that we saw
not a river, or stream of water, on all the coast of CScorgia, nor on any of tiie southern lands.
Nor did wo ever see a stream of water run from any of the ice islands. How are we then
to suppose that there .are large rivers ? The valleys arc covered, many fathoms deep, with
everlasting snow ; and, at the sea, they terminate in icy cliffs of vast height. It is hero
where the ice islands are formed ; not from streams of water, but from consolidated snow
and sleet, which i? almost continually falling or drifting down from the mountains, especially
in the winter, vvhen the frost must be intense. During that season, the icc-clitis must so
accumulate as to fill up all the bays, be they ever so large. This is a fact which cannot be
doubted, r.s we have seen it so in summer. These cliffs accumulate by continual falls of
snow, and what drifts from the mountains, till they are no longer able to sui)j)()rt their own
weight ; .and then large pieces break off, which we call ice-islands. Such as have a flat, even
surface, must be of the ice formed in the bays, and before the flat valleys ; tlu; others,
which have a tapering, unequal surface, must be formed on, or under, the side of a coast
composed of ])ointed rocks and precipices, or some such uneven surface. For we cannot
suppose that snow alone, as it falls, can form, on a plain surface, such as the sea, such a
variety of high peaks and hills as we saw on many of the ice-isles. It is certainly more
reasonable to believe that they are formed on a co.ast whose surface is something similar to
theirs. I have observed that all the ice-islands of any extent, and before they begin to break
to pieces, are terminated by perpendicular cliffs of clear ice or frozen snow, always on one or
more sides, but most generally all round. IMany, and those of the largest size, which had a
hilly and spiral surface, showed a perpeiidicul.ar cliff or side from the summit of the highest
pe.ak down to its base. This to me was a convincing proof, that these, as well as the flat isles,
must have broken off from substances like thcinselv! ? 'lat is, from some largo tract of ice*.

AV'^hen I consider the vast quantity of ice we saw, and the vicinity of the places to the
pole where it is formed, and where the degrees of longitude are very small, I am led to
believe that these ice-cliffs extend a good way into the sea, in some parts, especially in such
as are sheltered from the violence of the winds. It may even be doubted if ever the wind
is violent in the very high latitudes. And that the sea will freeze over, or the snow that
falls upon it, which amounts to the same thing, wo have instances in the northern liemi-

• Tliiit tlie vast fields of Uc surrounding tlie southern bottom of it being clcviitcd into a continent, a process tl c

pole, and the floating icebergs wliieli in tliiit beniisplierc effects of wliicli arc distinctly visible in many parts of tlic

ne.irly approach oven tropical regions, owe tlieir origin to world, and |)articularly so in South Auieiica, lias cavriid

such masses of ice or glaciers descending to the sea, as with it boulders scattered abroad on its surface, even as

are described above as occupying the valleys of Cieo ^'ia, tliey may be supposed to lie at tho bottom of the orcan.

appears to be a well settled fact. With modern geologists This opinion is confirmed by the fact tliat icebergs liiaring

it has been a favourite theory to refer the existence of rocks upon their surface have occasionally been met with,

these bo'ihlers, or erratic water-worn blocks, which are and that icebergs have been met at S'a at no greater dis-

found scattered in various ])irts of the earth's siuface, at tance than 3.">" 50' from the equator. This reunrkal)le

vast distances from any rocks of a siniiliir nature, to the variation of climate between tho northern and snutherii

action of similar glaciers, which carrying with them masses extremities of the globe appears more forcilily, wlicn we

of rock from the uiouutain's side, and afterwards bearing consider that the latitude of Cicorgia corresponds to the

them away from the land on icebergs, deposit them at southern part of Scotland. — Ed.
length in the sea,Vhich, in course of time, the laud as tho

r p

fi7«

COOK'S SECOND VOYACJK ROUND THE WOULD. Mahcii, 1775.

sphere. The Baltic, the Gulf of St. Lawrence, tlio Straits of Belle-Isle, and many
other equally large seas, are frequently frozen over in winter. Nor is this at all extraor-
dinary, for wc have found the defrrec of eold at the surface of the sea, even in summer, to
bo two degrees below the free/ing-poiiit ; consequently nothing kept it from freezing but
the salts it contains, ar.d the agitation of its surface. Whenever this last ceascth in winter,
when the frost is set in, and there conies a fall of snow, it will freeze on the surface as i.
falls, and in a few days, or perhaps in ono niglit, form such a slieet of ice as will not bo
easily broken up. Tiius a foundation will be laid for it to accumulate to any thickness by
falls of snow, without its being at all necessary for the sea-water to freeze. It may be by
this means these vast floats of low ice wo find in the spring of the year are formed, and
which, after they break up, arc carried by the currents to the north. For, from all the
observations I have been able to make, the currents everywhere, in the high latitudes, set
to the N., or to the N.E. or N.W. ; but we have very seldom found them considerable.

If this imperfect account of the formation of these extraordinary floating islands of ice,
which is written wholly from my own observations, does not convey some useful hints to
an abler pen, it will, however, convoy some idea of the lands where they are formed.
Lands doomed by nature to perpetual frigidness ; never to feel the warmth of the sun's
rays; whose horrible and savage aspect I have not words to describe; — such arc the lands
we have discovered ; what then may wo expect those to bo which lie still farther to the
south ? For we may reasonably suppose that we have seen tho best, as lying most to the
north. If any one should have resolution and perseverance to clear up this point by pro-
ceeding farther than I have, done, I shall not envy him the honour of tho discovery ; but I
will bo bold to say, that tho world will not be benefited by it.

I had, at this time, ?- e thoughts of revisiting the place where the French discovery is
said to lie. But then i considered that, if they had really made this discovery, the end
would be as fully answered as if I had done it myself. We know it can only be an island ;
and if wo may judge from the degree of cold we found in that latitude, it cannot be a fertile
one. Besides, this would have kept mo two months longer at sea, and in a tempestuous
latitude, which we were not in a condition to stru','glc with. Our sails and rigging were so
much worn, that something was giving way every hour ; and we had nothing left, either to
repair or replace them. Our provisions were in a state of decay, and consequently afforded
little nourishment, and we had been a long time without refreshments. My people, indeed,
were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever I had thouglit proper to lead
them ; but I dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them, sit a time when we had nothing left
to remove it. I must say farther, that it would have been cruel in me to have continued
the fatigues and hardships they were contiimally exposed to, longer than was .absolutely
necessary. Their behaviour, throughout the whole voyage, merited every indulgence
which it was in my power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they
showed themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger which came in their
way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other as being at all heightened by
our separation from our consort the Adventure,

All these considerations induced me to lay aside looking for the French discoveries, and
to steer for the Cape of Good Hope ; with a resolution, however, of looking for the isles of
Denia and jMarscveen, which are laid down in Dr. Ilalley's varia; lon chart in the latitude
of 41^° S., .and about 4° of longitude to the e.ast of the meridian of he Cape of Good Hope.
With this view I steered N.E., with a hard gale at N.W. and thi ik weatiier ; and on the
2Cth at noon, we saw the last ice-island, being at this time in tht latitude of 52" 52' S.,
longitude 26° 31' E. The wind .abating and veering to tho S., on tho 1st of March, we
steered W., in order to got farther from Mr. Bouvet's track, which was but a few degrees
to the east of us, being at this time in the latitude of 46" 44' S., longitude 33° 20' E., in
which situation we found the variation to bo 23° 36' west. It is somewhat remarkable,
that all the time we had northerly winds, which were regular and constant for several days,
the weather was always thick and cloudy; but as soon as they came S. of W. it cleared up,
and was fine and pleasant. The barometer began to rise several days before this change
happened ; but whether on account of it, or our coming northward, cannot be determined.

Alien, 1776'

and many
all cxtraor-
suininer, to
freezing but
li in winter,
surface aa i>>
I will not bo
;hicknes8 by
t may be by
formed, and
from all tlio
latitudes, act
derablc.
jlanda of ice,
icful hints to
arc formed,
of the sun''8
re the liinda
artlier to tho
; most to the
loint by pro-
(very ; but I

I discovery is

/ery, the end

be an island ;

)t be a fertile

tempestuous

[ging were so

eft, either to

ntly afforded

'oplc, indeed,

roper to lead

nothing left

ve continued

as absolutely

indulgence

officers, they

amc in their

eightened by

:ovcries, and
ir tho isles of
the latitude
jood Hope,
and on the
f 52" 52' S.,
March, we
few degrees
r 20' E., in
remarkable,
evcral days,
cleared up,
this change
termincd.

Mahcii, 177*. COOK'S SKCOND VOYAGE HOUND THE WOULD.

.•i70

Tho wind remained not long at south before it veered round by tho N.E. to N.W.,
blowinif frcsli and Ity .^iiuall.-*, attendud, as bifore, witli ruin and thick misty wciitlier. W'n
had wome intervals of eliar weather on tlie iiftirnnon of tlie IM, when wc fouml the variation
to be '2-2" 2(i' W. ; latitude at this time 4.V it' S., loni,'itudo 30" 50' E. The following
night was very stormy; tlie wind blow from (S.W. and in excessively heavy xjuallH. At
short intervals between the squalls, the wind would fall almost to a ealni, and then
come on aarain with such furv, that neitlier our sails nor riif'nntr could withstand it,
several of tho sails being split, and a middle staysail being wholly lost. Tho next
morning the gale abated, and we rejtaired the damage we had sustained in the best manner
we could.

On the nth, being in the latitude of 4F 30' S., longitude 2(5' 51' E., the mercury in tho
thermometer rose to (il, and we found it necessary to put on lighter clothes. As the wind
continued invariably fixed between N.W. and W., we took every advantage to get to the
west, by tacking whenever it shifted anything in our favour ; but as we had a great swell
against us, our tacks were rather disadvantageous. We daily saw albatrosses, i)eterels,
antl other oceanic birds; but not tho least sign of land. On the lltli, in the latitude of
40^ 40' S., longitude 2iP 47' E., tho variation was 20" 48' W. About noon the same day,
the wind shifting suddenly from X.W. to S.AV, caused the mercury in the thermometer to
fall as sutldenly from 02^ to 52'; such was the different state of tho air, between a northerly
and southerly wind. The next day, having several hours' calm, wc put a boat in tho water,
and shot some albatrosses and peterels ; which, at this time, were highly accejjtable. Wo
were now nearly in the situation where the isles which wo were in search of are said to lie ;
however, we saw nothing that could. give us tho least hope of finding them.

The calm continued till five oY'lock of tho next morning, when it was succeeded by a
breeze at AV. by S., with which wo stood to N.N.W. and at noon observed in latitude
3{^ 51' S. This was ui)waril3 of thirty miles more to tho north than our log gave us ; and
the watch showed that wo had been set to the cast also. If these diff'erenees did not arise from
some strong current, I know not how to account for them. Very strong currents have been found
on the African coast, between JMadagascar and the Capo of Good Hope ; but I never heard
of their extending so far from the land ; nor is it probable they do. I rather suppose that
this current has no connexion with that on tho coast, and that wo happened to fall into
some stream which is neither lasting nor regular. But these are points which retpiire much
time to investigate, and must thei'cfore be left to tho i<ulustry of future navigators.

Wo were now two degrees to the north of the parallel in which the isles of Denia and
Marseveen are said to lie. Wc had seen nothing to encourage us to persevere in looking
after them ; and it must have taken \ip some time longer to find them, or to i)rove their
non-existence. Every one was impatient to get into port, and for good reasons ; as for a
long time we had had nothing but stale and salt provisions, for which every one on board
had lost all relish. These reasons induced me to yield to the general wish, and to steer for
the Cape of Good Hope, being at this time in the latitude of 38° 38' S., longitude 23' 37'
E. Tho next day the observed latitude at noon was only seventeen miles to the north of
that given by the log ; so that we had either got out of the strength of the current, or it had
ceased. On the 15th the observed latitude at noon, togetlicr with the watch, showed that
wc had had a strong current setting to the S.W. the contrary direction to what wo had
experienced on some of the preceding days, as hath been mentioned. At daylight on the
Kith, we saw two sail in tho N.W. quarter standing to the westward, and one of them
showing Dutch colours. At ten o'clock wc tacked and stood to the west also, being at this
time in tho latitude of 35' 9' S., longitude 22 ' 38' E.

I now, in pursuance of my instructions, demanded of the officers and petty officers the
log-books and journals they had kept ; which were delivered to mo accordingly, and sealed
up for the inspection of tho Admiralty. I also enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to
divulge where we had been, till they had their Lordships' permission so to do. In tho
aftttrnoon the wind veered to the west and increased to a hard gale, which was of short dura-
tion ; for, the next day, it fell, and at noon veered to S.E. At this time we were in the
latitude of 34" 49' S., longitude 22" E. ; and, on sovmding, found fifty-six fathoms water.

IT 2

lifi

6C0

COOKS SECjOXD VOYAGK ROUND THE WORLD. Maiicii, 1776.

Ill tlio evening wc saw the land in tlio direction of E.N.E., about six leagues diatant ; and,
during tlie foro part of tlio night, tliere \\ti» a great firo or light njion it.

At dayhreak on the UUh, we (*aw the land again, bearing N.N.W., six or seven leagues
distant, and tlic depth of water forty-eight fatlionis. At nine o'clock, having little or no
wind, we lioisted out a boat and sent on board one of the two ships before mentioned, which
were about two leagues from us ; but we were too impatient after news to regard the distance.
Soon after, a breeze sprung up at west, with which wo stood to the south ; and, presently,
three sail more appeared in sight to windward, one of which showed English colours. At
one I'.M. the boat returned from on board the Downkerkc Polder, Captain Cornelius Bosch,
a Dutch Indianian from IJengal. Captain Bosch, very obligingly, offered us sugar, arrack,
and whatever he had to spare. Our people were told by some I'iiiglish seamen on board this
ship, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and
that the crew of one of her boats bad been murdered and eaten by the people of Now
Zealand ; so that the story which we heard in Queen Charlotte's Sound was now no longer
a mystery.

Wc had light airs, next to a calm, till ten o'clock the next morning, when a breeze sprung
up at west, and the English ship, which was to windward, bore down to us. She proved
to be the True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China. As ho did not intend to touch at
the Capo, I i)ut a letter on board him for the Secretary of the Admiralty. The account
which wc had heard of the Adventure was now eonfirnied to us by this ship. Wo also got, from
on board her, a parcel of old newspapers, which were new to us, and gave us some amuse-
ment ; but these were the least favours we received from Captain Broadly. With a
generosity peculiar to the commanders of the India Company's ships, he sent us fresh provi-
sions, tea, and other articles, which were very acceptable, and deserve from me this public
acknowledgment. In the afternoon we parted company. The True Briton stood out to sea,
and we in for the land ; having a fresh gjile at west, which split our fore top-sail in '^h a
manner, that we were obliged to bring another to the yard. At six o'clock wo tacke ' 'lin
four or five miles of the shore ; and, as we judged, about five or six leagues to th if

Cape Aguilas. We stood off till midnight, when, the wind having veered round t<" tho
south, we tacked, and stood along-shore to the west. The wind kept "vring mo;e and
more in our favour, and at last fixed at E.S.E., and blew, for some hours, a perfect hurri-
cane. As soon as the storm began to subside, we made sail, and hauled in for the land.
Next day at noon, the Table Mountain over the Capo Town bore N.E. by E., distant nine
or ten leagues. By making use of this bearing and distance to reduce the longitude shown
by the watch to the Cape Town, the error was found to be no more than IB* in longitude,
which it was too far to the east. Indeed, the difference we found between it and the lunar
observations, since we left New Zealand, had scldoiii exceeded half a degree, and always
the same way.

Tho next morning, being with us Wednesday, the 22nd, but' with the people here Tuesday,
the 21st, we anchored in Table Bay, where we found several Dutch ships ; some French ;
and the Ceres, Captain Ncwte, an English East India Company's ship, from China, bound
directly to England, by whom I sent a copy of the preceding parts of this journal, some
charts, and other drawings, to the Admiralty. Before we had well got to an anchor, I
despatched an officer to acquaint the governor with our arrival, and to request the necessary
stores and refreshments, which were readily granted. As soon as the officer came back,
wc saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was immediately returned
with an equal number.

I -low learnt that the Adventure had (.ailed here, on her return ; and I found a letter from
Captain Furneaux, acquainting me witli the loss of his boat, and of ten of his best men, in
Queen Charlotte's Sound. The captain, afterwards, on my arrival in England, put into my
hands a complete narrative of his proceedings, from the time of our second and final separa-
tion, which I now lay before the public in the following chapter.

[aiicii, l77fi.
iiitant ; and,

ivcn leaguea
little or no
oncd, which
tho distance.
1, presently,
lolours. At
lelius Dosch,
igar, arrack,
>n board thia
ths ago, and
plo of New
•w no longer

recze sprung

She proved

to touch at

riio account

ilso got, from

■loinc amuso-

y. With a

fresh provi-

this public

d out to SCO,

ail in "ha

»cke' 'lin

.0 th *f

■ound tr tho

ig no;o and

crfcct hurri-

for the land.

distant nine

itude shown

in longitude,

nd the lunar

and always

ere Tuesday,
me French ;
hina, bound
)urnal, some
,n anchor, I
he necessary
came back,
ely returned

I letter from
)est men, in
put into my
inal separa-

Nov. 177n.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

.ini

ClIAPTEn VIII. — CAPTAIN FrRNKAUx'rt NAHUATIVF, OK III.S I'nofKF.DINOa IN THF. AnVKNTiriK,
FUOM Tin: TIMK UK WAS MKI'AU ATKI) FHOM Till: IlKsdl.lTION, TO HIS AlUtlVAI. IN

F.NoLANn ; iNci.rniNo likutf.nant iu'rni:y'.s kki'uut nt.Nc f.h.mmi tiik iioat's ciitw,

WHO WKUK Ml'IIDKUKI) IIY TIIK IXIIAIIITANTS OF (IIKEN CI1AIU.()TTk'.S KOlNO.

Aftf.u a passage of fourteen days from Amsterdam, we matle the coast of New Zealand
near the Table Capo, and stood along-shore till wo came as far as Cnpc Turnagaiii. 'I'ho
wind then beijan to blow strong at west, with heavy squalls ami rain, whitli split many of
our sails, and blew us off the coast for throe days ; in which time wo parted company witli
the Uesolution, and never saw her afterwards.

On the 4th of November, wo again got in-shoro, near Cape Pulliser, and wore visited by
a number of tho natives in their canoos, bringing a great quantity of cray-fish, which wo
bought of them for nails and Otaheito cloth. Tiie next day it blow hard from W.N.W.,
which again drove us off the coast, and obliged us to bring to for two days ; (hiring which
time it blow one continual gale of wind with heavy falls of sleet. Dy this time o\ir docks
were very leaky ; our beds and bedding wet ; and several of our jiooplo complaining of colds ;
so that we began to despair of ever getting into Charlotte Sound, or joining tho Uosolution.
On the 6th, being to tho north of the Cape, the wind at S.W. and blowing strong, wo
bore away for some bay to comjdeto our water and wood, being in groat want of both ,
having boon at tho allowance of one quart of water for some days past ; and even that
pittance could not be como at, above six or seven days longer. We anchored in Tolaga Bay
on the 0th, in latitude 38" 21' S., longitude 178" .37 E. ' It affords good riding with tho
wind westerly, and regular soundings frnm eleven to five fathoms, stiff muddy ground across
the bay for about two miles. It is open from N.N.E. to E.S.E. It is to be observed,
easterly winds seldom blow hard on this shore, but when they do, they throw in a great sea ;
so that if it wore not for a great undertow, together with a large river that empties itsoK in
the bottom of tho bay, a ship would not be able to ride here. Wood and water are easily
to be had, except when it blows hard easterly. The natives here are tho same as those at
Charlotte Sound, but more numerous, and seemed settled, having regular jdautations of
sweet potatoes, and other roots, which are very good ; and they have plenty of crjiy and
other fish, which wo bought of them for nails, beads, and other trifles, at an easy rate. In
one of their canoes wo observed the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers
and other ornaments. It had the appearance of being alive ; but, on examination, we found
it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept as the relic of some deceased
relation. Having got about ten tons of water, and some wood, wo sailed for Charlotte
Sound on the 12th. We were no sooner out than tho wind began to blow hard, dead on
the shore, so that we could not clear tho land on either tack. This obliged us to bear away
again for the bay, where we anchored tho next morning, and rode out a very heavy gale of
wind at E. by S. which threw in a very great sea. Wo now began to fear wo should never
join the Resolution ; having reason to believe she was in Charlotte Sound, and by this time
ready for sea. We soon found it was with great difficulty we could get any water, owing
to the swell setting in so strong ; at last, however, we were able to go on shore, and got
both wood and water.

Whilst we lay here, we were employed about the rigging, which was much damaged by
the constant gales of wind we had met with since v;e made the coast. We got the booms
down on the decks, and having made tho ship as snug as possible, sailed again on the Itith.
After this we met with several gales of wind off the mouth of the strait, and continued
beating backwards and forwards till tho 30tli, when we were so fortunate as to got a
favourable wind, which we took every advantage of, and at last got safe into our desired
port. We saw nothing of the Resolution, and began to doubt her safety ; but on going
ashore, we discerned the place where she had erected her tents ; and, on an old stump of a
tree in the garden, obser.od these words cut out, "Look underneath." There we dug, and
soon found a bottle corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Captain Cook, signify-

6«2

COCK'S SECOND VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1773.

ing tlicir arrival on the 3d instant, and departure on tlic 24th ; and that they intended spending
a few days in the entrance of the straits to h)()k for ns. We immediately set about getting
the ship ready for sea as fast as posjible ; erected our tents ; sent the cooper on shore to
repair the casks ; and began to unstow the hold, to get at the bread that was in butts ; but
on opening them, found a great quantity of it entirely spoiled, and most part so damaged
that we were obliged to fix our copper oven on shore to bake it over again, which undoubtedly
d( 'ayed us a considerable time. Whilst we lay )\ere, the inhabitants came on board as
bef(,re, sn])plying us with fish, and other things of ilicir own manufacture, which wc bought
of them for nails, &c., and appeared very friendly ; though twice in the middle of the night
they camo to Jio tent, with an intention to steal, but .vere discovered before they could get
anything into their possession.

On the 17tli of December, having refitted tlie ship, completed our water and wood, and
got everything ready for sea, we sent our large cutter, witli Mr. Rowc, a midshipman, and
tlie boat's crew, to gather wild greens for the snip's company, with orders to return that
evening, as I intended to sail the not morning. But on the boat's not returning the fame
evening, nor the next morning, being imder great uneasiness about her, I hoisted out the
launch, and sent her, with the second lieutenant, IMr. Burney, manned with the boat's crew
and ten marines, in searcli of lier. ^Fy orders to ]\[r. Burney were, first to look well into
East B ly, and then to proceed to Grass Cove, the place to wliich Mr. Rowe had been s^-.it ;
and if he heard nothing of tiie boat there, to go farther up the Sound, and come back along
the west shore. As jMr. Rowe had left the f-hip an hour before the time proposed, a.id in a
great hurry, I v^-as strongly persuaded that his curiosity had carried him iito East Bay, none
in our ship having

ever been there; 'Z^- j _?>__.

or else, tliat some .^ cfj"

accident liad hap-
pened to tlie boat,
either by going
adrift throuirh the
boat-k ;eper's negli-
gence, or by being
stove among the
rocks. This was
almost everybody's
opinion ; and on
tliis supposition the
carpenter's mate
was sent in the
launch, witli some
sheets of tin. I
had not the least
susjncion that our
people had received
any injury from
the natives ; our
boats having fre-
quently been higher
nj), and worse pro-
vided. How much
I was mistaken too
soon apj)eared; for
Mr. Burney having
returned about ele-
ven o'clock the same
night, made his ^,^,,^, .„ ^^,,,^^ ciuklotte's sound.

Dec. 1773.

dcd spending
bout getting

on si) ore to
11 butts ; but
i so damaged
undoubtedly
on board as
li we bouglit

of the niglit
ley could get

1 wood, and
hipnian, and
) return tliat
ing the same
isted out the
! boat's crew
ok well into
d been Sf^iit ;
back along
!ed, a.id in a
st Bay, none

■ ■ ■ ; ■ ■ ■<■■■".

•■ V'.l '■' '

Dec. 1773.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

5C3

report of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be bctt' " described than in his own words,
which now follow.

" On the KUh we loft the ship ; and hrtving a light breeze in our favour, wc s-oon got
round Long Island, and within Long Point. I examined every cove on the larboard hand,
as we went along, looking well all around with a spy-glass, which I took for that purpose.
At half-past one we stopped at a beach, on the left-hand side going up East Bay, to boil
some victuals, as we brought nothing but raw meat with us. Whilst wc were cooking, I
saw an Indian on the opposite shore running along a beach to the iiead of the bay. Our
meat being drest, we got into the boat and put off; and, in a short time, arrived at the
head of this reach, where we saw an Indian settlement. As we drew near, some of the
Indians came down on the rocks, and waved for us to be gone ; but seeing wc disregarded
them, they altered th^ir notes. Here we found six largo canoes hauled up on the beach,
most of them doubl'> ones, and a great many people ; though not so many as one might
expect from the number of houses and size of the canoes. Leaving tiie boat's crew to guard
the boat, I stepped as^'ore with the marines (the corporal and five men), and searched a
good many of their houses ; but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Three or four well-
beaten paths led farther into the woods, " .here were many more houses ; but the people
continuing friendly, I thought it unnecessary to continue our search. Coming down to the
beacli, one of the Indians had brought a bundle of hepatoos (long spears), but seeing I
looked very earnestly at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming
unconcern. Some of the people appearing to Vc frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one,
and a large nail to anotlier. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess,
N.N.W. a good mile, where it ended in a long sandy beach. I looked all round with tho
glass, but saw no boat, canoe, or 'sign of inhabitant. I therefore contented myself with
firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as I went along.

" I now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement, where the Indians
invited us ashore. I inquired of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They
appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after we left this
place, in a small beach adjoining to Grass Cove, we saw a very large double canoe just
hauled up, with two men and a dog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and ran up
into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here get tidings of the cutter. We
went ashore, and searched the canoe, where we found one of the ruUock-ports of the cutter,
and some shoes, one of which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of our midship-
men. One of the people, at the same time, brought me a piece of meat, which he took to be
some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's crew. On examining this, and smelling to
it, I found it was fresh. Mr. Fannin (the master), who was with me, supposed it was dog's
flesh, and I was of the same opinion ; for I still doubted their being cannibals. But wo
were soon convinced by most horrid and imdeniable proof. A great many baskets (about
twenty) lying on the beach tied up, we cut them open. Some were full of roasted flesh,
and some of fern-root, which serves them for bread. On farther search, wc found more shoes
and a hand, which we immediately knew to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our
forecastle men, it beins marked T. H. with an Otaheite tattow-instrument. I went with
some of the people a little way up the woods, but saw nothing else. Comuig down agam,
there was a round spot covered with fresh eari'i about four feet diameter, where sometliing
had been buried. Having no spade, we beg'in to dig with a lass ; and in the mean time
I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her ; but seeing a great smoke ascending over
the nearest hill, I got all tho people into the boat, and made what haste I could to be with
them before sunset.

" On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, one single and
three double ones, and a great many people on the beach, who, on our approach, retreated
to a small hill within a ship's length of the water-side, where they stood talking to us. A
large fire was on the top of the high land beyond the woods, from whence, all the way down
the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. As we came in, I ordered a musquetoon to be
fired at one of the canoes, suspecting they might be full of men lying down in the bottom ;
for they were all afloat, but nobody was seen in them. The savages on the little hill still
kept hallooing and making signs for us to land. However, as soon as wo got close in, we all

fin4

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Dec. 1773.

fired. Tlie first volley did not seem to affect them much ; but on the seconvi, tliey began to
scramble away as fast as they could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long
as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Amongst the Indians were
two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves forsaken by their
companions ; and then they marched away with great composure and deliberation ; their
pride not suffering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there or
crawled off on all-fours. The other got clear without any apparent hurt. I then landed
with the marines, and Mr. Fannin staid to guard the boat.

" On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the
cutter. A broken oar was struck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their
canoes ; a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back
of the beach, to see if the cutter was there. We found no boat, but instead of her, audi
a shocking scene of carnage ..nd barbarity as can never be mentioned or thought of but with
horror ; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our people were seen lying on the beach,
and, at a little distance, the dogs gnawing their entrails. Whilst we remained almost
stupified on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to us that he heard the savages gathering together in
the woods ; on which I returned to the boat, and hauling alongside the canoes, we demolished
three of them. W^hilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the hill disappeared ; and
we could hear the Indians in the woods at high words : I suppose quarrelling whether or no
they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew d.ark : I therefore just
stepped out, and looked once more behind the beach, to see if the cutter had been hauled up
in the bushes ; but seeing nothing of her, returned and put off. Our whole force would have
been barely sufficient to have gone up the hill, and to have ventured with half (for half must
b-'ve been left to guard the boat) would nave been fool-hardiness.

' As we opened the upper part of the Sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four
miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost
to the water-side, the middle space being enclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. I
consulted with Mr. Fannin, and we were botn of opinion that we could expect to reap no
other advantage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. At leaving
Grass Cove, we had fired a general volley towards where we heard the Indians talking ; but
by going in and out of the boat, the arms had got wet, and four pieces missed fire. V^hat
was still worse, it began to rain ; our amm.imition was more than half expended, and we left
six large canoes b(^hind us in one place. With so many disadvantages, I did net think it
worth while to proceed, where nothing could be hoped for but revenge. Coming between
two round islands, situated to the southward of East Bay, wo imagined we heard somebody
calling ; we lay on our oars and listened, but heard no more of it ; we hallooed several times,
but to little purpose ; tlie poor souls were far enough out of hearing ; and, indeed, I think it
some comfort to reflect that, in all probability, every man of tiiem must have been killed on
the spot."

Thus far Mr. Burney's report ; and, to complete the account of this tragical transaction, it
may not be unnecessary to mention that the people in the cutter were, Mr. Rowc, Mr. Wood-
house ; Francis Murphy, quarter-master ; William Facey, Thomas Hill, IMichael Bell, and
Edward Jones, forecastle-men ; John Cavenangh and Thomas Milton, belonging to the after-
guard ; and James Sevilley, the captain's man ; being ten in all. Most of these were of our
very best seamen, the stoutest and most healthy people in the ship. Mr. Burney's party
brought on board two hands ; one belonging to i\Ir. Rowe, known by a hurt he had received
on it ; the other to Thomas Hill, as before mentioned ; and the head of the captain's servant.
These, with more of the remains, were tied in a hammock and thrown overboard, with ballast
and shot sufficient to sink it. None of their arms nor clothes were found, except part of a
pair of trowsers, a frock, and six shoes, no two of them being follows.

I am not inclined to think this was any premeditated plan of these savages ; for the morn-
ing Mr. Rowe left the ship, he met two canoes, which came down and staid all the forenoon
in Ship Cove. It might probably hap])en from some quarrel which was decided on the spot ;
or the fairness of the opportunity miglit tempt them, our people being so incautious, and
thinking themselves too secure. Anotlicr thing which encouraged the New Zcalanders was,
tliey were sinsiihie that a gun was not infallible, that they sometimes missed, and that, when

Deo. 1773.

March, 1774. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,

585

y began to
ng as long
dians were
in by their
ion ; their
,y there or
[en landed

lading tho
I tied their
t the back
her, auch
f but with
the beach,
icd almost
together in
iemolished
;ared ; and
ither or no
refore just
hauled up
vould have
r half must

ree or four

iwn almost

hedge. I

to reap no

\.t leaving

Iking; but

re. V/hat

nd we left

think it

between

somebody

iral times,

! think it

killed on

saction, it
r. Wood-
Boll, and
the aftcr-
pre of our
>y's party
\ received
9 servant,
th ballast
part of a

the morn-
forenoon
the spot ,'
tioiis, and
dors was,
lat, when

discharged, they must bo loaded before they could be used again, which time they knew how
to take advantage of. After their success, I imagine there was a general meeting on the cast
side of the Sound. The Indians of Shag Cove were there ; this we knew by a cock which
was in one of the canoes, and by a long single canoe, vrhich some of our p' -pie had seen four
days before in Shag Cove, where they had been with Mr. Rowc in the cutter.

We were detained in tho Sound by contrary winds four days after this melancholy affair
happened, during which time we saw none of the inhabitants. AVhat is very remarkable, I
had been several times up in tho same cove with Captain Cook, and never saw tho least sign
of an inhabitant, except some deserted towns, which appeared as if they had not been occu-
pied for several years ; and yet, when Mr. Burney entered the cove, he was of o]>inion there
could not be loss than fifteen hundred or two thouHand people. I doubt not, had they been
apprised of his coming, they would have attacked him. From these considerations I thought
it imprudent to send a boat up again, as we were convinced there was not the least proba-
bility of any of our people being alive.

On the 23d, we weighed and made sail out of the Sound, and stood to the eastward to get
clear of the Straits ; which we accomplished the same evening, but were baffled for two or
three days with light winds before we could clear the coast. We then stood to the S.S.E.,
till we got into the latitude of 56" S., without anything remarkable happening, having a
great swell from the southward. At this time the winds began to blow strong from the
S.W,, and tho weather to be very cold ; and as the ship was low and deep laden, the'sea
made a continual breach over her, which kept us always wet ; and by her straining, very few
of the people were dry in bed or on deck, having no shelter to keep the sea from them. The
birds were the only companions we had in this vast ocean ; except, now and then, we saw a
whale or porpoise, and sometimes a seal or two, and a few penguins. In the latitude of
r»8° S., longitude 213° * E., we fell in with some ice, and every day saw more or less, we
then standing to the E. We found a very strong current setting to the eastward ; for by
the time we were abreast of Cape Horn, being in the latitude of 61" S., the ship was ahead
of our account eight degrees. We were very little more than a month from Cape Palliser,
in Now Zealand, to Cape Horn, which is an hundred and twenty-one degrees of longitude,
and had continual westerly winds from S.W. to N.W., with a great sea following.

On opening some casks of peas and flour, that had been stowed on the coals, we found
them very much damaged, and not eatable ; so thought it most prudent to make for the
Cape of Good Hope, but first to stand into the latitude and longitude of Cape Circumcision.
After being to the eastward of Capt ini, we found tho winds did not blow so strong from
the westward as usual, but came mor* umn tiu north, which brought on thick foggy weather ;
so that for several days together we could not be alili to tret an observati n, or see tlie least
sign of the sun. This weather lasted above a ninntli, heiiio; tlion among a great many islands
of ice, which kept us constantly on the look-out for fi n- of runniifL foul of tliem, and, boinf
a single ship, made us more attentive. By this time our people bey an to complain of colds
and pains in their limbs, which obliged me to haul to the northward to tli- latitmlo of 54^ S. ;
but wo still continued to have the same sort of weather, though wo had (ituiur an opportunity
of obtaining observations for the latitude. After getting into I'hr latitude above mentioned,
I steered to the east, in order, if possible, to find the land i lid down by Bouvot. As wc
advanced to the east, the islands of ice became more numerous and dangerous, thcv being
much smaller than they used to be, and the nights began to be dark.

On the 3d of March, being then in the latitude of 54° 4' 8., loiiL'if' ^o IS" E., which is the
latitude of Bouvet's discovery, and half a degree to the oastwanl , and not seeing the least
sign of land, either now or since we have been in tliis parallel, 1 gave over looking for it,
and hauled away to the northward. As our last track to the southward was within a few
degrees of Bouvet's discovery, in tho longitude assigned to it, and about three or four degrees
to the southward, should there be any land thereabout, it must be a very inconsiderable island.
But I believe it was nothing but ice, as we, in our first setting out, thought we had seen land
several times, but it proved to be high islands of ice at tho back of the large fields ; and as
it was thick foggy weather when ]Mr. Bouvet fell in with it, he might very easily mistake
them for land.

* About 147 Most loniiitiiilc, as I icckoii.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mxncn, 1775.

On the 7th, heing in the latitude of 48° 30' S., longitude 14" 26' E., saw two large islands
of ice. On the IJih, made the land of the Cape of Good Hope ; and on the 19tli, anchored
ID Table Bay, where we found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majesty's ships
Salisbury and Seahorse. I saluted the Commodore with thirteen guns, and, soon after, the
garrison with the same number ; the former returned the salute, as usual, with two guns less,
and the latter with an equal number.

On the 24tli, Sir Edward Hughes sailed with the Salisbury and Seahorse for the East
Indies; but I remained, refitting the ship and refreshing my people, till the l(Jth of April,

when

I sailed for England ,

and on the 14th of July, anchored at Spithead.

CIIAPTKR IX. — TRANSACTIONS AT THE CAPE OF OOOD HOPE J WITH AN ACCOUNT OF SOME
DISCOVERIES MADE BY THE FRENCH ; AND THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHIP AT ST. HELENA.

I NOW resume my own Journal, which Captain Furneaux's interesting Narrative, in the
preceding chapter, had obliged me to suspend.

The Oiy after my arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, I went on shore and waited on the
governi.f, Baron Plettcnberg, and other principal officers, who received and treated us with
the greatest politeness, contributing all in their power to make it agreeable. And, as there
are few people more obliging to strangers tlian the Dutch in general at this place, and
refreshments of all kinds are nowhere to be got in such abundance, we enjoyed some real
repose, after the fatigues of a long voyage. 'The good treatment which strangers meet w^ith
at the Cape of Good Hope, and the necessity of breathing a little fresh air, has introduced a
custom not common anywhere else (at least I have nowhere seen it so strictly observed),
which is, for all the officers who can be spared out of the ships to reside on shore. We
followed this custom. Alyself, the two Mr. Forsters, and JNIr. Sparrman, took up our abode
with Mr. Brandt, a gentleman well known to the English by his obliging readiness to serve
them. jMy first care after my arrival, was to procure fresh-baked bread, fresh meat, greens,
and wine, for those who remained on board ; and, being provided every day during our stay
with these articles, they were soon restored to their usual strength. We had only three
men on board whom it was thonght necessary to send on shore for the recovery of their
health ; and for these I procured quarters, at the rate of thirty stivers, or half-a-crown, per
day, for which they were provided with victuals, drink, and lodging.

We now went to work to supply all our defects. For this purpose, by permission, we
erected a tent on shore, to which we sent our casks and sails to be repaired. We also struck
the yards and topmasts, in order to overhsul the rigging, which we found in so bad'a con-
dition, that almost everything, except the standing rigging, was obliged to be replaced with
new ; and that was i)urchased at a most exorbitant price. In the article of naval stores, the
Dutch li 0, as well as at Batavia, take a shameful advantage of the distress of foreigners.
That our rigging, sails, &c. should be worn out, will not bo wondered at, when it is known,
that, during this circumnavigation of the globe, that is, from our leaving this place, to our
return to it again, we had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues ; an extent of voyage
nearly equal to three times the equatorial circiimfereuco of the earth, and which, I appre-
hend, was never sailed by any ship in the same space of time before. And yet, in all this
great run, which had been made in all latitudes between 0' and 71", we sprung neither low-
masts, top-mast, lower nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast shroud ;
which, with the great care and abilities of my officers, must be owing to the good properties
of our ship.

One of the French ships which were at anchor in the bay, was the .^ iax Indiaman, bound
to Pondicherry, commanded by Captain Crozet. He had been second in command with
Captain Marion, who sailed from this place with two ships, in March 1772j as hath been
already mentioned, instead of going from hence to America, as ^ 'S said, he stood away
for New Zealand ; where, in tlie Bay of Isles, he and some of his people were kil'.od by the
inhabitants. Captain Crozet, who succerded to the command, returned by the way of the
Philippine Isles, with the two ships, to the Island of Mauritius. Ho seemed to be a man

1776.

MAncn, 1775. COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE .WORLD.

fiB7

possessed of tlic true spirit of discovery, and to have abilities. In a very obliging manner,
lie communicated to me a cliart, wlierein were delineated not only bis own discoveries, but
also tliat of Captain Kerguelen, which I found laid down in the very situation where wo
searched for it ; so that I can, by no p.oans, conceive how both we and the Adventure
missed it. Besides tliis land, which Ca)itain Cro/.et told us was a long but very narrow
island, extending east and west, Captain Marion, in about the latitude of 40" S., ami from
1(>" to 30" of longitude east of the Cape of Good Hop , discovered six islands whieii were
high and barren*. These, together with some islands lying between the line and tho
soutliern tropic in tho Pacific Ocean, were the principal discoveries made in this voyage,
the account of which, we were told, was ready for publication.

By Captain Crozet's chart, it appeared that a voyage had been made by the French across
the South Pacific Ocean, in 17^'>0, under tho command of one Captain Survillc ; who, on
condition of his attempting discoveries, bad obtained leave to make a trading voyage to tho
coast of Peru. lie fitted out, and took in a cargo, in some part of the East Indies ; pro-
ceeded by way of the Philippine Isles ; passed near New Britain ; and discovered some land
in the latitude of 10" S., longitude 158" E. to which he gave bis own name. From hence he
steered to the south ; passed but a few degrees to the west of New Caledonia ; fell in with
New Zealand at its northern extremity, and ])ut into Doubtful Bay, where, it seems, he was
when I passed it, on my former voyage, in the Endeavour. From New Zealand, Captain
Surville steered to the east, between the latitude of .35" and 41" south, until he arrived on
the coast of America ; where, in the port of Callao, in attempting to land, he was drowned.
These voyages of the French, though undertaken by private adventurers, have contributed
something towards exploring the Southern Ocean. That of Captain Survillc clears up a
mistake which I was led into, in imagining the shoals off the west end of New Caledonia to
extend to the west, as far as New Holland. It proves that there is an open sea in that
space, and that wo saw the N.W. extremity of that country.

From the s<ame gentleman wc learnt, that the ship which had been at Otahcitc before our
first arrival there this voyage, was from New Spain ; and that, in her return, she had dis-
covered some islands in the latitude of 32' S. and under the meridian of 130" W. Some
other islands, said to be discovered by the Spaniards, appeared on this chart ; but Captain
Crozet seemed to think, they were inserted from no good authorities. We were likewise
informed of a later voyage undertaken by tho French, under tiie command of Captain
Kerguelen, which had ended much to the disgrace of that commander.

While we lay in Tiible Bay, several foreign ships put in and out, bound to and from India,
viz, English, French, Dane.*, Swedes, and three Spanish frigates, two of ♦'.lem going to, and
one coming from, Manilla. It is but very lately that the Spanish ships ha\c touched here; and
these were the first that were allowed the same privileges as other European friendly nations.

On examining our rudder, the pintles were found to be loose, and wc were obliged to
imhang it, and take it on shore to repair. We were also delayed for want of calkers to calk
the ship, which was absolutely necessary to be done, before we put to sea. At length I
obtained two workmen from one of the Dutch ships ; and the Dutton English East India-
man, coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice, obliged me with two more ; so that by the 26th
of April, this work was finished ; and having got on board all necessary stores, and a fresh
supply of provisions and water, we took leave of the governor and other principal officers,
and the next morning repaired on board. Soon after, the wind coming fair, wc weighed
and put to sea ; as did also the Spanish frigate Juno, from Alanilla, a Danish Indianian, and
the Dutton. As soon as we were under sail, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns ;
which compliment was immediately returned with the same number. The Spanish frigate
and Danish Iiidiaman both saluted us as we passed them, and I returned each salute with
an equal number of guns. When we were clear of the bay, the Danish ship steered for tho
East Indies, the Spanish frigate for Europe, and wo and the Dutton for St. Helena.

* These were visited by Cook \v!ien going out on liis narrative of Cook's visit to it on liis tliird voynpc, in Tier.

tliird voyage, nnd were distingiiislied by him by tlie names 1776, and Dr. Donglas's notes uiion the snlgcct of the

of Prince Edward's Ishmds, Marion's and Crozet's Is- previous visits of tlic French. — Ed.
hmds. Forafiirtlicraecount of Kergnclen'e Land, ace the

588

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

Mav, 1775.

'!• t ;

Depending on the goodness of Mr. Kcndalfs watch, I resolved to try to make the island,
by a direct course. For the first six days, that is, till we got into the latitude of 27" S.,
longitude 11^° W. of the Cape, the winds were southerly and S.E. After this we had
variahle light airs for two days ; they were succeeded by a wind at S.E. which continued to
the island, except a part of one day, when it was at N.E. In general, the wind blew faint
all the passage, which made it longer than common. At daybreak in the morning of the
15tli of May, we saw the island of St. Helena, at the distance of fourteen leagues ; and, at
midnight, anchored in the road before the town, on the N.W. side of the island. At
sunrise the next morning, tl<e castle, and also the Dutton, saluted us, each witli thirteen
guns : on my landing, soon after, I was saluted by the castle, with the same number ; and
each of the salutes was returned by the ship. Governor Skettowe, and the princij>al
gentlemen of the

island, received -^''=^^^f":Z'-..

and treated me, - •^=^^^^-~

during my stay, .^ ^:^^^^i^^^^--Z:i^^.^ ._.,

with the great- . _ \:5^j,gy^;^/^^r^[iii>^.I^~'^

est politeness, by
showing me every
kind of civility in
their power.

Whoever views
St. Helena, in its
present state, and
can but conceive
what it must have
been originally,
will not hastily
charge the in- -
habitants with .
want of industry :
though, perhaps,
they might apply
it to more advan-
tage, were more
land appropriated
to planting of corn,

vegetables, roots, &c., instead of being laid out in pasture, which is the present mode. But
this is not likely to happen, so long as the greatest part of it remains in the hands of the
Company and their servants. Without industrious planters this island can never flourish, and
be in a condition to supply the shipping with the necessary refreshments *. Within these
three years a new church has been built ; some other new buildings were in hand ; a com-
modious landing-place for boats has been m<ade ; and several other improvements, which add
both strength and beauty to the place. During our stay here we finished some necessary
repairs of the ship, which we had not time to do at the Cape. We also filled all our empty
water-casks ; and the crew were served with fresh beef, purchased at fivepence per pound.
Their beef is exceedingly good, and is the only refreshment to be had worth mentioning.

By a series of observations made at the Cape Town, and at James Fort, in St. Helena ; at
the former by Messrs. Mason and Dixon, and at the latter by Mr. Maskelyne, the present
astronomer royal • the difference of longitude between these two places is 24° 12' 15", only
two miles more than Mr. Kendall's watch made. The lunar observations made by Mr. Wales,
before we arrived at the island, and after we left it, and reduced to it by the watch, gave

• In recent years great improvement lias taken place chief supplies to bo obtained hero nrc frcsli meat and

in the cultivation of the island, wliicii has been encouragod water ; and the former is held of such importance, that no

by the exertions of the government and the establishment nne is allowed to kill an ox without the governor's per-

of Agricultural and Horticultural Societies. Slill the mission Kd.

ST. HELFN*.

May, 1775.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

589

5° 51' for the longitude of James Fort, which is only five miles more west than it is placed
by Mr. Maskelyne. In like manner, the longitude of the Cape Town was found within 5'
of the truth. I mention this to show Iiow near the longitude of places may bo found by the
lunar method, even at sea, with the assistance of a good watch.

a com-

CIIAPTER X. PASSAGE FROM ST. HELENA TO THE WESTERN ISLANDS, AVITII A DESCRIPTION

OF THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION AND FERNANDO NORONHO.

On the 21st, in the evening, I took leave of the governor, and repaired on board. Upon
my leaving the shore, I was saluted with thirteen guns ; and, upon my getting under sail,
with the Dutton in company, I was saluted with thirteen more ; both of which I returned.
After leaving St. Helena, the Dutton was ordered to steer N.W. by W, or N.W, by com-
pass, in order to avoid falling in with Ascension ; at which island, it was said, an illicit trade
was carried on between the officers of the India Company's ships and some vessels from
North America, who, of late years, had frequented the island, on pretence of fishing for
whales or catching turtle, when their real design was to wait the coming of the India sliipg.
In order to prevent their homeward-bound ship from falling in with these smugglers, and to
put a stop to this illicit trade, tlie Dutton was ordered to steer the course above mentioned
till to the northward of Ascension. I kept company with this sliip till the 24th, when,
after putting a packet on board her for the Admiralty, we parted, she continuing her course
to the N.W., and I steering for- Ascension.

In the morning of the 28th, I made the island, and the same evening anchored in Cross
Br.y, on the N.W. side, in ten fathoms water, the bottom a fine sand, and half a mile from
the shore. The Cross Hill, so called on account of a cross or flag-staff erected upon it, bore
by compass S. 38" E. ; and the two extreme points of the Bay extended from N.E. to S.W.
W r. mained here till the evenino; of the 31st ; and, notwithstanding we had several parties
out . ^ry night, we got but twenty-four turtle, it being rather too late in the season ; how-
ever, as they weighed between four and fi ve hundred pounds each, we thought ourselves not
ill off. We might have had a plentiful supply of fish in general ; especially of that sort called
old wives, 1 have nowhere secu such abundance ; there were also cavalies, congor eels, and
various other sorts ; but the catching of any of these was not attended to, the object being
turtle. There are abundance of goats, and aquatic birds, such as men-of-war and troi)ic
birds, boobies, &c.

The Island of Ascension is about ten miles in length, in the direction of N.W. and S.E.,
and about five or six in breadth. It shows a surface composed of barren hills and valleys,
on the most of which not a shrub or plant is to be seen for several miles, and where we found
nothing but stones and sand, or rather slags and ashes ; an indubitable sign that the isle, at
some remote time, has been destroyed by a volcano, which has thrown np vast heaps of
stones, and even hills. Between these heaps of stones we found a smooth even surface, com-
posed of ashes and sand, and very good travelling upon it ; but one may as easily walk over
broken glass bottles as over the stones. If the foot deceives you, you are sure to be cut or
lamed, which happened to some of our people. A high mountain, at the S.E. end of the
isle, seems to be left in its original state, and to have escaped the general destruction. Its
soil is a kind of white marl, which yet retains its vegetative qualities, and produceth a kind
of purslain, spurg, and one or two grasses. On these the goats subsist ; and it is at this part
of the isle where they are to be found, as also land-crabs, which are said to be very good. I
was told, that about this part of the isle is some very good land, on which might be raised
many necessary articles ; and some have been at the trouble of sowing turnips and other
useful vegetables. I was also told there is a fine spring in a valley which disjoins two hills
on the top of the mountain above mentioned ; besides great quantities of fresh water in holes
in the rocks, which the person who gave me this information believed was collected from
rains. But these supplies of water can only be of use to the traveller, or to those who may

!|'

590

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE \VORF.D.

May, 1773.

be so unfortunate as to bo Hliipwrcckcd on the island * ; which seems to liave been tlie fate of
s^mic not hmg ago, as appeared by the remains of a wreck wo found on the N.E. side, liy
what we could judge, she seemed to have been a vessel of about one hundred and fifty tons
Lurtlien.

While we lay in the road, a sloop of about seventy tons burthen came to an anchor by us.
She belonged to New York, which place slie left in February; and having been to the coast
of Guinea with a cargo of goods, was conic here to take in turtle to carry to Barbadoes.
This was the story which the master, whose name was Greves, was pleased to tell, and which
may, in part, be true ; but I believe the chief view of his coming hero was the expectation
of meeting with some of the India ships. lie had been in the island near a week, and had
got on board twenty turtle. A sloop, belonging to Bermuda, had sailed but a few days
before with one hundred and five on board, which was as many as she could take in ; but
having turned several more on the different sandy beaches, they had ripped open their bellies,
taken out the eggs, and left the carcasses to putrify ; an act as inhuman as injurious to those
who came after them. Part of the account I have given of the interior parts of this island
I received from Captain Greves, who seemed to be a sensible, intelligent n)an, and had been
all over it. He sailed in the morning of the same day we did.

Turtle, I am told, are to bo found at this isle from January to June. The method
of catching them is to have peojdo upon the several sandy bays, to watcii their coming on
shore to lay their eggs, which is always in the night, and then to turn them on their backs,
till there be an opportunity to take them off the next day. It was recommended to us to
send a good many men to eacli beach, where they were to lie quiet till the turtle were ashore,
and then rise and turn them at once. This method may be the best when tlie turtle are
numerous ; but when there are but few, three or four men arc sufficient for the largest beach ;
and if they keep patrolling it, close to the wash of the surf, during the night, by this method
they will see all that come ashore, and cause less noise than if there were more of them. It
was by this method )ve cauglit the most we got ; and this is the method by which the
Americans take them. Nothing is more certain, than that all the turtle which are found
altout this island come here for the sole purpose of layipg their eggs, for we meet witli none
but females ; and of all those which we caught, not one had any food worth mentioning in
its stomach ; a sure sign, in my ojjinion, that they must have been a long time without any ;
and this may be the reason why the flesh of them is not so good as some I have ate on the
coast of New South Wales, which were caught on the spot whr -^ they fed.

Tlie watch made 8° 45' difference of longitude between St. liuiena and Ascension ; which
added to a^ 4i>', the longitude of James Fort in St. Helena, gives 14° 34' for the longitude
of the Road of Ascension, or 14° .30' for the middle of the island, the latitude of wliich is
8' S. The lunar observations made by ]\Ir. Wales, and reduced to the same point of the
island by tiie watch, gave 14" 28' 30" west longitude.

On the 31st of May we left Ascension, and steered to the northward, with a fine gale at
S.EL by E. I ha*! a great desire to visit the island of St. j\Iatthew, to settle its situation ;
but as I found the winds would not let me fetch it, I steered for the island of Fernando do
Xoronho, on the coast of Brazil, in order to determine its longitude, as I could not find this
bad yot been done. Perhajts I should have performed a more acceptable service to naviga-
tion, if I had gone in search of the island of St. Paid, and those shoals which are said to
lie near the equator, and about the meridian of 20' west ; as neither their situation nor
eii'^ttnce is well known. The truth is, I was unwilling to prolong the passage in search-
ing for what I was not sure to find ; nor was I willing to give up every object, which might
tend to the improvement of navigation or geography, for the sake of getting home a week
or a fortnight sooner. It is but seldom that opportunities of this kind offer; and when they
do, they are too often neglected.

In our passage to Fernando dc Noronho, we had steady fresh gales between the S.E. and
E.S.E. attended with fair and clear weather ; and as we had the advantage of the moon, a

• Since tlic time when Napoleon was imprisoned in
$t. Ileleua, Asrension has been occupied by a small
Bii:Uh gai'i'isoi], li; whose cxeilion it has been much im-

proved ; and is now a very coiivenie.it station as a depot
tor stoies, and a place for watering >liip8 cruising on the
coast of Brasil or in the SoMth Atlantic Uccan. — Ed.

JUNB, l77'.

COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE klOUNU THE WORLD.

method

which

day or night did not pass without making hirar observations for the dftormining our longi-
tude. In tliis run, tiio variation of the com oass gradually decreast'd from IP wcsit, which
it was at Asccnsiion, to 1° west, wlii(^h we fornd off l-'ornando do Noronho. This was tho
mean result of two con>passos, one of vvhich gi;vo P M7', and the other 2li' west. On tlio
9th of June, at noon, we made the island of Fi vnando do Noronho, bearing S.AV. by AV.
^ W., distant six or seven leagues, as we afterwards found by the log. It appeared in
detached and peaked hills, the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. As
we drew near the S.E. part of the isle, we i)erceived several unconnected sunken rocks lying
near a league from the shore, on which the sea broke in a great surf. After standing very
near these rocks, we hoisted our colours, and then bore up round the north end of the isle,
or rather round a group of little islets ; for wo could sec that the land was divided by
narrow channels. There is a strong fort on tho one next the main island, where tliero aro
several others; all of which seemed to have every advantage that nature can give them, and
they are so disposed as wholly to command all the anchoring and landing jdaees about tho
island. We continued to steer round the northern point, till the sandy beaches (before
wiiich is tho road for shipping) began to appear, and the forts and the peaked hills were
open to the westward of the said point. At this time, on a gun being fired from one of tho
forts, the Portuguese colours were displayed, and the example was followed by all the other
forts. As the purpose for which I made the island was now answered, I had no intention
to Jinchor ; and therefore, after firing a gun to leeward, we made sail and stood away to tho
northward, with a fine fresh gale at E.S.E. The peaked hill or church tower bore south,
27"^ west, distant about four or five miles ; and from this point of view it leans, or over-
hangs, to the east. This hill is nearly in the middle of the island, which nowhere exceeds
two leagues in extent, and shows a hilly, unequal surface, mostly covered with wood and
herbage.

Ulloa says, " This island hath two harbours, capable of receiving sliips of the greatest
burden ; one is on the north side, and the other on the N.W. Tlie former is, in every
respect, the principal, both for shelter and capa'jity, and the goodness of its bottom ; but
both arc exposed to the north and west, though these winds, particularly the north, are
periodical, and of no long continuance." He further says, tiiat you anchor in the north
harbour (which is no more than what I woidd call a load) in thirteen fathoms water, one-
third of a league from shore, bottom of fine sand ; the peaked hill above mentioned bearing
S.W. 3° southerly*.

This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and cast winds. One of my seamen
had been on board a Dutch India ship, who put in at this isle in her way out, in 1770.
They were very sickly, and in want of refreshments and water. Tlic Portuguese supplied
them with some buffaloes and fowls ; and they watered behind one of the beaches in a little
pool, which was hardly big enough to dip a bucket in. By reducing the observed latitude
at noon to the peaked hill, its latitude will be 3" 53' south; and its longitude, by the watch,
carried on from St. Helena, is 32" 34' west ; and by observations of the sun and moon,
made before and after we made the isle, and reduced to it by the watch, 32° 44' 30" west.
This was the mean result of my observations. The results of tiiose made by Mr. Wales,
which were more numerous, gave 32" 23'. Tho mean of the two will be pretty near the
watch, and probably nearest the truth. By knowing the longitude of this isle, we are able
to determine that of the adjacent east coast of Brazil ; which, according to the modern
charts, lies about sixty or seventy leagues more to the west. We might very safely have
trusted to these charts, especially the Variation Chart for 1744, and Mr. Dalrymple's of the
Southern Atlantic Ocean f.

On the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we crossed the equator in the longitude of
32" 14' west. We had fush gales at S.S.E., blowing in squalls, attended by showers of

• See DoD Antonio d'UUoa's book, vol. ii. clrp. 3,
pace 95 to 102, \Ylicrc tlierc is a very particular account
of this island.

f Ulloa says, that the chart placet this island sixty
leagues fi'uui tho coast of Brazil ; uud that thu Por-

tuguese pilots, who often make tho voyage, judge it to

be eighty leagues ; but, by taking tlic nie:iii between

the two opinions, the distance may be fixed at seventy
leagues.

<02

COOKS SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD.

Junk, IV 7-^

rain, that continued at certain intervals, till noon tho next day, after wliicli wo had twcntyJ
four hours' fair weather. At noon on the 13tli, being in tho latitude of 3" 49' nortli, loni
tudo Ml" 47' west, tho wind became variable, between tho N.E. and south; and we Imcii
li^dit airs and squalls by turns, attended by hard showers of rain, and for thu most part dark,!
gloomy weather, which continued till the evening of the lAth, when in tho latitude of 5" 47'|
north, longitude 31" west, we had three calm days, in which timo we did not advance abovol
ten or twelve leagues to the north. Wo had fair weather and rain by turns ; tho sky, fori
tho most part, being obscured, and sometimes by heavy dense clouds which broke in execs- 1
sivo hard showers. At seven o'clock in tho evening on tho 18th, the calm was succeeded
by a breeze at cast, which, the next day, increasing and veering to and fixing at N.E., wo
stretched to N.W. with our tacks on board. We made no doubt that we had now got tho
N.E. trade-wind, as it was attended with fair weather, except now and then some light
showers of rain ; and as we advanced to the north, the wind increased and blew a fresh
top-gallant gale.

On the 21st, I ordered the still to bo fitted to the largest copper, which held about sixty-
four gallons. Tho fire was lighted at four o'clock in the morning, and at six the still began
to run. It was continued till six o'clock in the evening ; in which time we obtained tliirty-
two gallons of fresh water, at the exjiense of one bushel and a half of coals ; which was
about three-fourths of a bushel more than was necessary to have boiled the ship's company's
victuals only ; but the expense of fuel was no object with me. The victuals were dressed
in tho small copper, the other being applied wholly to the still ; and every method was
made use of to obtain from it the greatest quantity of fresh water possible, as this was my
sole motive for setting it to work. The mercury in the thermometer at noon was at eighty-
four and a half, and higher it is seldom found at sea. Had it been lower, more water,
under the same circumstances, would undoubtedly have been produced ; for the colder the
air is, the cooki" you can keep the still, which will condense the steam the faster. Upon
the whole, this is a useful invention ; but I would adviso no man to trust wholly to it.
For although you may, provided you have plenty of fuel and good coppers, obtain as much
water as will support life, you cannot, with all your efforts, obtain sufficient to support
health, in hot climates especially, where it is the most wanting ; for I am well convinced,
that nothing contributes more to the health of seamen than having plenty of water.

The wind now remained invariably fixed at N.E. and E.N.E. and blew fresh with squalls,
attended with showers of rain, and the sky for the most part cloudy. On the 25th, in the
latitude of 16" 12' north, longitude 37° 20' west, seeing a ship to windw<ard steering down
upon us, we shortened sail in order to speak with her ; but finding she was Dutch by her
colours, we made sail again and left her to pursue her course, which we supposed was to
some of the Dutch settlements in the West Indies. In the latitude of 20" north, lonaitudo
39" 4.')' west, the wind began to veer to E. by N. and E. ; but the weather remained the
same ; that is, we continue'', to have it clear and cloudy by turns, with light squalls and
showers. Our track was between N.W. by N. and N.N.W. till noon on the 28th, after
which our course made good was N. by W., being at this time in the latitude of 21" 21'
north, longitude 40° 6' west. Afterwards, the wind began to blow a little more steady,
and was attended with fair and clear weather. At two o'clock in the morning of the 30tli,
being in the latitude of 24" 20' north, longitude 40" 47' west, a ship, steering to the west-
ward, passed us within hail. We judged her to be English, as they answered us in that
language ; but we could not understand what they said, and they were presently out
of sight.

In the latitude of 29" 30', longitude 41" 30', the wind slackened and veered more to the
S.E. We now began to see some of that sea-plant which is commonly called gulf- weed,
from a supposition that it comes from the Gulf of Florida. Indeed, for aught I know to
the contrary, it may bo a fact ; but it seems not necessary, as it is certainly a jdaut which
vegetates at sea. We continued to see it, but always in small pieces, till we readied tho
latitude 36°, longitude 39° west, beyond which situation no more appeared. On tho 5th of
July, in the latitude of 32" 31' 30" north, longitude 40" 29' west, the wind veered to the
east, and blew very faint; the next day it was calm; the two following days we had

^'OIlLD.

Junk, V,75.

July, 1775-

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

fi03

er wliidi wo liad twonty-
Kleof.T 49' north, longi-
and south ; and we liad
id for tho most part dark,
n in tlio latitude of 5" 47'
ve did not advance above
ill by turns ; tho sky, for
ds which broke in t-xces-
, the calm was succeeded

and fixing at N.E., wo
that we had now got tho
ovr and then some licrht
creased and blew a fresh

M-hich held about sixty-
ind at six the still began
time wo obtained thirty-
lalf of coals ; which was
led the ship's company's
lie victuals were dressed

and every method was
possible, as this was my
• at noon was at eighty-
jeen lower, more water,
Jced ; for the colder the
team the faster. Upon

1 to trust wholly to it.
oppers, obtain as much
in sufficient to support
r I am well convinced,
enty of water.

dew fresh with squalls.
On the 25th, in the
ndward steering down
she was Dutch by her
ih we supposed was to
>f 20" north, longitude
weather remained the
with light squalls and
on on the 28tli, after
he latitude of 21" 21'
a little more steady,
morning of the 30th,
steering to the west-
answered us in that
were presently out

1 veered more to the
ly called gulf-weed,
for aught I know to
tainly a jdant which
, till we readied the
rod. On the 5th of
wind veered to the
wing days we had

variable light airs and calms by turns; and, at length, on the 9th, having fixed at S.S.W.,
it increased to a fresh gale, with which wo steered first N.E. and tiun E.N.lv witli a
view of making some of the Azores, or Western Isles. On the 11th, in the latitude of
30" 45' north, longitude .30° 45' west, we saw a sail which was steering to tho west ; and
the next day we saw three more.

CnAPTER XI. ARRIVAt, OP THE SHIP AT THE ISLAND OF PAYAL, A DESCRIPTION OP THE

PLACE, AND THE BICTURN OF THE RESOLUTION TO ENGLAND.

At five o'clock in tho evening of tho 13th, we made the Island of Fayal, one of tho
Azores, and soon after that of Pico, under which we spent the nigiit making short boards.
At daybreak the next morning wo bore away for the bay of Fayal, or Do llorta, where, at
eight o'clock, wo anchored in twenty fathoms water, a clean sandy bottom, and something
more than half-a-mile from the shore. Here wo moored N.E. and S.W., being directed so
to do by the master of the port, who came on board bef<jre we dropped anclior. When
moored, tho S.W. point of the bay bore S. 10° W., and the N.E. jioint N. 33=- E. ; tho
dmrcb at the N.E. end of tho town N. 38° W. ; the west point of St. George's Island
N. 42° E., distant eight leagues; and tho Isle of Pico extending from N. 7-4° I'^- *•>
S. 40° E., distance four or five miles. We found in tho bay the Pourvoyeur, a large French
frigate, an American sloop, and a brig belonging to the place. 81ie had come last from tho
river Amazon, where she took in a cargo of provisions for tlie Cape Vi^de Islands ; but,
not being able to find them, she steered for this place, where she anchored about half an hour
before us.

As my sole design in stopping here was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to find tho
rate of the watch, the better to enable us to fix, with some degree of certainty, tho longitiulo
of these islands, the moment we anchored, I sent an officer to wait on the English consul,
and to notify our arrival to the governor, requesting his permission for Mr. Wales to make
observations on shore, for the purpose above-mentioned. Mr. Dent, who acted as consul in
the absence of Mr. Gathorne, not only procured this permission, but accommodated
Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden to set up bis instruments ; so that he was
enabled to observe equal altitudes the same day. We were not more obliged to Mr. Dent
for the very friendly readiness he showed in procuring us this and every other thing we
wanted, than for the very liberal and hospitable entertainment we met with at his house,
which was open to accommodate us, botli night and day.

During our stay, the ship's company was served with fresh beef; and we took on board
about fifteen tons of water, which we brought ofl" in the eonntry boats, at the rate of about
three shillings per ton. Ships are allowed to water with their own boats, but the many
inconveniences attending it more than overbalance the expense of hiring shore-boats wiiidi
is the most general custom. Fresh provisions for present use may be got, such as beef,
vegetables, and fruit ; and hogs, sheep, and poultry, for sea- stock, at a pretty reasonable
price ; but I do not know that any sea-provisions are to be had, except wine. The bullocks
and hogs are very good, but tho sheep are small, and wretchedly ])oor.

The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, witli which they supply Pico,
and some of the other isles. The chief town is called Villa de Horta. It is situated in the
bottom of the bay, close to the edge of the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each
end of the town, and a wall of stone-work, extending along the sea-shore, from the one to
the other. But these works are suffered to go to decay, and serve more for show than
strength. They heighten the prospect of the city, which makes a fine appearance from tiio
road ; but, if wo except the Jesuits' College, the monasteries, and churches, there is not
another building that has anything to recounnend it, either outside or in. There is not
a glass window in the place, except what are in the churclies, and in a country-house, which
lately belonged to the English consul ; all the others being latticed, which, to an Englishman,
makes them look like prisons.

This little city, like all others belonging to tho Portuguese, is crowded with religious

Q 1

COOKS SECOND VOYAiJK IIOUNI) THE WORLD.

Jui.v, ni

fei

Imildings ; tlipxo lioing no loss tlmn tlirco convents of men, and two of women ; an<l eig
cliurclies, intludiiij,' those bidonging to tlio convents, and tlio one in tlio Jesuits' CoIIi-rrl
Tiio college is a fine structure, and is seated on an elevation in the pleasantest part of tl
city. Since tlio expulsion of tliat order, it lias been suftered to go to decay, and wi'
proliaWy in a few years, bo no better than a heap of ruins. Fayal, although the nio
noted for wine, does not raiso sufficient for its own consumption. This article i^ raised oi
Pico, where there is no road for shipping; but being brotight to Do llorta, and from thenc
shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of Fayal wine.

The bay, or road of Fayal, is situated at the east end of the isle, lieforo the Villa d
Ilorta, and facing the west end of Pico. It is two miles broad, and three (piarters of
mile deep, and hath a semicircnlar form. The depth of water is from twenty to ten, an(
even six fathoms, a sandy bottom ; except near the shore, and particularly near the S W
head, off which the bottom is rocky, also without the line, wlich joins the two points o
the bay, so that it is not safe to anchor far out. The bearing before-mentioned, taken when
at . nclior, will direct any one to the best ground. It is by no means a bad road, but the winds
mos". Lo be apprehended arc those which blow from between the S.S.W. and S.E. ; the former
is not so dangerous as the latter, because, with it, you can always get to sea. Besides this
road, there is a small cove round the S.W. point, called Porto Piere, in which, I am told, a
ship or two may lie in tolerable safety, and where they sometimes heave small ve«-nls down.

A Portuguese captain told me, that aboist half a league from the road, in the direction of
S.E., in a line between it and the south side of Pico, lies a sunken rock, over which is
twenty-two feet water, and on which the sea breaks in hard gales from the south. lie also
assured me, that of all the shoals that arc laid down in our charts and pilot-books about
these isles, not one has ony existence but the one bctw3en the islands of St. Michael and
St. ]Mary, called Ilormingan. — This account may be believed, without relying entirely upon
it. He further informed me, that it is forty-five leagues from Fayal to the island of I'lores ;
and that there runs a strong tide between Fayal and Pico, the flood setting to the N.E., and
the ebb to the S.W., but that out at sea, the direction is east and west. Mr. "NVales having
observed the times of high and low water, by the shore, concluded that it must br high
water at the full and change about twelve o'clock, and the water riseth abcc' ^juv or
five feet.

The distance between Fayal and Flores was confirmed by Mr. Rebiers, lieutenant of tho
French frigate, who told me, that, after being by estimation two leagues duo south of
Flores, they made forty-four leaguet.', on a S.E. by E. course by compass, to St. Catherine's
Point, on Fayal.

I found the latitude of the ship at anchor in the bay

By a mean of seventeen sets of lunar observations, taken before we
arrived, and reduced to the bay by the watch, the longitude was
made ..........

By a mean of six sets after leaving it, .and reduced back by tho
watch .... ..... . ,

Longitude by observation ......

Ditto, by the watch

Error of the watch on our arrival at Portsmouth

True longitude by the watch

I found the variation of the compass, by several azimuths, taken by different compasses
on board the ship, to agree very well with the like observations made by Mr. Wales on
shore ; and yet the varisition thus found is greater by 5", than we found it to be at sea ; for
the azimuths taken on bo.ard, the evening before we came into the bay, gave no more than
10" 18' west variation, and the evening after we came ont, 17" 33' west.

I shall now give some account of the variation, as observed in our run from the Island of
Fernando de Noronho to Fayal. The least variation we found was 37' W., which was the

38° 31'

28 24 30 W.

28
28

53
38

22
56

48
26^

18^

VORLI).

Ju'f.v, irrA.

Ji i.v, 177/5.

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE IlOirND THE \VOUM>.

A05

two of women ; nnrl p|g|,t

10 in tllO Jesuits' C'()l|,.;rc.

tlio plonsantest part of tlio

t«) go to decay, and wil!

Fayal, altliongh the most
'i'liis article is raiseil on
•c llorta, and from thenco
lyjil wino.
i«le, before tlio A'illa do

and t'lreo (|uarters of ji
i from twenty to ten, and
irticularly near tlio S. W.
'Ji joins tlic two points of
e-mentioned, taken wlien
a bad road, but llio winds
. W. and S.E.;tlie former

got to sea. Besides tin's
i', in win'cb, I am told, a
leave small ve«s, Is down.

road, in the direction of
Icon rock, over which is
"om the south. He also
is and pilot-books about
inds of St. Michael and
lit rclyinjr entirely upon

to the island of 1 'lores •
netting to the N.E., and
est. Mr. -Wales having
d that it must ljf> jiigh
sr riseth aboc.f ^^.r or

biers, lieutenant of tlie
leagues duo south of
pass, to St. Catherine's

38° 31' Sr," N.

20 24 30 W.

28 53 22
28 38 50

■ different compasses

le by Mr. Wales on

it to be at sea ; for

, gave no more than

from the Island of
^., which was tho

day after wo left Fernando dc Noronlio, and in tlio latitude of 33 S., longitude 32" 1(1' W.
The next day, being nearly in the i<anie longitude, and in the latitude of I" 25' X. it was
1" 2!V west; and wo did not find it increase till we got into the latitude of 5" N., longitude
31" we.^t. After tliis our compasses gave difterent variations, viz., from 3" 57 to 5" 1 1' W.,
till we arrived in the latitude of 2t»'' 44' north, longitude 41" west, when we found (5" west.
It then increased gradually, so that in tho latitude of 35" N. longitude 4if' W., it was
10" 24' W. : in the latitude of 38" 12" N., longitude ;J2V' W., it was 14" 4" ; and in siglit
of Faval l;«" W?' W., as mentioned above.

Having left the buy at four in the morning of the IDtli, I steered for the west end of St.
Oeorge''8 Island. As b'lon as wo had passed it, I steered E. i\ 8. for the Island of Tercera ;
and after having run thirt' :'n le.'igvs, wo wore not more than one league from the west end.
I now edged away for the north side, with a view of rnr.ghij; the coast to tho eastern point,
in order to ascertain the length of tho island ; but the weather coming on very thick and
hazy, and night approaching, I gave up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for
England. On the 20th we made the land near Plymouth. The next morning we ancho"ed
at Spithead ; and the same day I landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London, in company
with Messrs. Wales, Forsters, and llodges.

Having been absent from England throo years and eighteen days, in which time, and
under all changes of climate, I lost but four men, and only one of them by sickness, it may
not be amiss, at tho conclusion of this journal, to enumerate the several causes to which,
under the care of Providence, I conceive this uncommon good state of health experienced by
my people was owing. In tho Introduction, mention has been made of tho extraordinary
attention paid by tho Admiralty, in causing such articles to bo put on board a.', either from
experience or suggestion, it was judged would tend to preserve the health of the seamen. I
shall not trespass upon the reader's time in mentioning them all, but confine myself to such
as were found the most useful. We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was
made Street Wort. To such of the men <iS showed the least symptoms of tho scurvy, and
also to such as were thought to be threatened with that disorder, this was given from one to
two or three pints a day each man ; or in such proportion as the surgeon found necessary,
which sometimes amounted to three quarts. This is, without doubt, one of the best anti-
scorbutic sea medicines yet discovered ; and, if used in time, will, with proper attention to
other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy from making any great progress for a
•onsiderabte while. Hut I am not .iltogethcr of opinion that it will cure it at sea.

Sour Krout, of which we had a large quantity, is not only a wholesome vegetable food,
but, in my judgment, highly antiscorbutic ; and it spoils not by keeping. A pound of this
was served to each man when at sea, twice a week or oftener, as was thought necessary.
Portable Broth was another great article, of which we had a large supply. An ounce of this
to each man, or such other proportion as circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their
pease, three days in the week ; and when we were in places where vegetables were to be
got, it was boiled with them, and wheat or oatmeal every morning for breakfast ; and also
with pease and vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several nourishing and whole-
some messes, and was the means of making tJiv' people eat a greater quantity of vegetables
than they would otherwise have done. Hob of Lemon and Orange is an antiscorbutic we
were not without. The surgeon made use of it in many eases, witli great success. Amongst
the articles of victualling, we were supplied with Sugar in the room of Oil, and with Wheat
for a part of our Oatmeal ; and were certainly gainers by the exchange. Sugar, I appre-
hend, is a very good antiscorbutic ; whereas oil (such as the navy is usually supplied with),
I am of opinion, has the contrary effect.

But the introduction of the most salutary articles, cither as provisions or medicines, will
generally prove unsuccessful, unless supported by certain regulations. On this principle,
many years' experience, together with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, Captains
Campbell, Wallis, and other intelligent officers, enabled me to lay a plan whereby all was to
be governed. The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary occasions.
By this means they were not so much exposed to the weather as if they had been at watch
and watch ; and had generally dry clothes to shift themselves, when they happened to get

696

COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.

JuiiY, 1776.

m I

wet. Care was' also *aken to expose their, as little to wet weather as possible. Proper
methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, clothes, &c., constantly clean
and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or
twice a week she was aired with fires ; and when this could not be done, she was smoked
with gunpowder mixed with vinegar or water. I had also frequently a fire made in an iron
pot at the bottom of the well, which was of great use in purifying the air in the lower parts
of the ;)hip. To this and to cleanliness, as well in the ship as amongst the people, too great
attention cannot be paid ; the least neglect occasions a putrid and disagreeable snicll below,
which nothing but fires will remove. Proper attention was paid to the ship's coppers, so
that they wero kept constantly clean. The fat which boiled out of the salt beef and pork,
I never suftered to be given to the people ; being of opinion that it promotes the scurvy.

I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even though we did not want
it. Because I look upoi: fresh water from the shore to be more wholesome tlian that which
has been kept some time on board a ship. Of this essential article we were never at an
allowance, but had alwayv^ plenty for every necessary purpose. Navigators in general
cannot, indeed, expect, nor Avould they wish to meet with, such advantages in this respect,
as fell to my lot. The nature of our voyage carried us into very high latitudes. But the
hardships and dangers inseparable from that situation, were, in some degree, compensated by
the singular felicity we enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an
ocean strewed with ice. We came to few places where either the art of man or the bounty
of nature had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, either in the animal or vegetable
way. It was my first care to procure whatever of any kind could be met with, by every
means in my power ; and to oblige our people to make use thereof, both by my example
and authority;' but the benefits arising from refreslimcnts of any kind soon became so
obvious, that I had little occasion to recommend the one or to exert the other.

It doth not become me to say how far the principal objects of our voyage have been
obtained. Though it hath not abounded with remarkable events, nor been diversified by
sudden transitions of fortune ; though my relation of it has been more employed in tracing
our course by sea, ihan in recording our operations on shore ; this, perhaps, is a circumstance
from which the curious reader may infer, that the purposes for which we were sent into the
southom hemisphere were diligently and effectually pursued. Had we found out a continent
there, we might have been better enabled to gratify curiosity ; but we hop3 our not having
found it, after all our persevering searches, will leave less room for future speculation about
unknown worlds remaining to be explored. But, whatever may be the public judgment
about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and witliout claiming any merit but that of
attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an observation which facts
enable me to make, that our having discovered the possibility of preserving liealth amongst
a numerous ship's company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate and
amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in the
opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a southern continent shall have
ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of philosophers.

END OF VOL, I.

tONDOM :
BRAUDURV AND KVANB, pniNTBRS, \VHlTBrRIAR8.

mil ■ k L«.

•RLD.

July, 1775.

ir as possible. I'roper
8, &c., constantly clean
;twixt decks. Once or
done, she was smoked
y a fire made in an iron
B air in the lower parts
st the people, too great
lagreeahle smell below,
o the ship's coppers, so
the salt beef and pork,
•oniotes the scurvy.
lOugh we did not want
esonio than that which
we were never at an
!^avigatora in general
mtages in this respect,
;h latitudes. But tlie
egree, compensated by
)f fresh water from an
of man or the bounty
he animal or vegetable
)e met with, by every

both by my example
kind soon became do
16 other.

ir voyage have been
or been diversified by
B employed in tracing
aps, is a circumstance
we were sent into the
bund out a continent

iop3 our not having
speculation about

le public judgment
my merit but that of
iervation which facts

ng hoaltii amongst

ties of climate and
remarkable in the

continent shall have

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ire

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^ LODGE'S PORTRAITS AND MEMOIRS

THE MOST ILLUSTRIOUS PERSONAGES
IN iUilTISH HISTORY.

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10.

11.

12.

1. Eliziibeth, Quoe.n of Henry V[I.

2. Tlioiiias Stanley, Karl of Derby.
:i. Margaret, Mother of HiMiry VII.
4. Cirdinal Wolsey.
.">. A-chbisbop Warbam.

6. Sir John More.

7. Sir Tboiiias .M(«-e.

8. Queen Anne Bullcn.
Qiici'ii Jane Seymour.
S^r Nicliolas Curew.
Thomas Cromwell, Karl of Essex.
Margiret Tudor, Sister to Henry VIII.

13. Charles lirandon, Uuke of .Sutloik.

H. Curiliual lieaioun.

15. Henry Howard, Karl of Surrey.

I'i. Henry the Eiahth.

17. (Jiieeu t'atharine Parr.

IX. Lord Seymour of Sudelcy.

lil. Sir Anthony Denny.

20. Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset.

21. Kdward the Sixth.

22. John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland.
2A. Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk.

21. Lady Jane (Jrey.

25. Henry (irey, Duke of Suffolk.

20. John Kussell, First Earl of Bedford.

27. Bishop Kidley.

28. Archuishop Cranmer.

29. Kdward Counenay, Earl of Devonshire.

30. Cardinal Pole.

31. Mary, Queen of England.

32. William, First Lord Paget.

33. Kdward, First Lord North.
31. Henry Stuart, Lord Darnl.y.
35. James Stuart, Karl of Mt r ■?-.
3*i. John Knox.
3". Thomas Howard, Fourth Duke of Norfolk.

William I'owlett, Marquis of Winchester.

Sir William Maitland.

Janus llurailion, Earl of .\iran.

Archbishop Parker.

Waller Devereux, Earl of Essex.

Sir Nicholas Itaion.

Sir Thomas (ireshnm.

Ilenr> Fiizalan, Earl of Arundel.

James Douglas, Karl of Morton.
•17. Thomas Itadclille, Earl of Sussex.
48. Kdward ( limou, Karl of Lmculu.
•ID. Sir Philip Sidney.

38
3D
H).
41,
42,

44.

4,-..

4«.

•'-0. Mary Stuart, Queen of Scotland.
61. Itobert Dudley, Karl of Leicester.

52. Ambrose Dudley, Karl of Warwick.

53. Sir Francis Walsingham.

54. Sir Christopher Hatton.

55. Cardinal Allen,
50. Sir Francis Drake.

57. Philip Howard, Karl of Arundel.

58. John, First Lord Maitland.
5D. William Cecil, Lord Burghloy.
GU. liobert Devereux, Earl of Kssex.
61. Queen I':ii2abeth.
fi2. John, .Marquis of Hamilton.

I 63. (ieorge Clillord, Earl of Cumberland.

64. Charles Blount, Earl of Devonshire.
I 65. Thomas Sackville, Karl of Dorset.

6fi. Sir Thomas Bouley.

67. Uohert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury.

68. Henry, Prince o."" Wales.

6U. Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton.

70. Lady Arabella Stuart.

71. Thomas Kgerion, Viscount Brackley.

72. Sir Walter Raleigh.

73. Mary, Countess of Pembroke.

74. Thomas Cecil, Karl of Exeter.

75. Hcnr.;, Earl of Southampton.

76. James, .Marquis of Hamilton.

77. Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham.

78. I.odowick Stuart, Duke of Itiehmond.
7D. Francis Bacon, Viscount St. Albans.
MO. Thomas Howard, Karl of Sulfolk.

81. Edward Somerset, Earl of Worcester,
8'J. Lucy Harrington, Countess of Bedford.

83. Ceorge \iili,rs, Duke of Buckingham.

84. Fulke (ireville, Lord Bnjoke.

85. (ieorge Carew, Earl of Totnes.

86. William Herbert Earl of Pembroke.

87. Sir Hugh Middleton.

8,8. Henry Percy, Karl of Northumberland.

8D. Archbishop .Abbot.

DO. Uichard Weston, Earl of Portland.

Dl. Waller, Lord Aston,

D2. Frances Howard, Duchess of Itiehmond.

D.f. Sir Henry Wotton.

D4. Lord Keeper Coventry.

D-'J. Francis Hussell, Earl of Bedford.

Dfi. Wenlworth, Earl uf Stralfurd.

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D8, Itobert Gieville, Lord Brooke.

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LODGE'S PORTRAITS— CONTINUED.

«"■

'I'll

';ii

I'l

99.
100.
101.
102.
103.
104.
lOft.

ia<>.

107.

10«

109.

110.

111.

112.

\\3.

\U.

11.5.

116.

117.

1!8.

119.

120.

121.

122.

123.

124.

125.

126.

127.

128.

129.

130.

131.

132.

133.

134.

135.

136.

137.

138.

139.

140.

141.

142.

143.

144.

145.

146.

147.

148.

149.

MiU.

151.

152.

153.

154.

l.S".

156.

157.

IS8.

159.

ICO.

161.

162.

163.

164.

ir,\

166.

167.

168.

109.

Spencer Ckiniptan, Eatl of Korlhampton.

Robert Dormer, Earl of CaernarTon.

William Villiertt, Viscount Grandiaon.

William Fielding, Earl of Denbigh.

Henry Spencer, Earl of iiunderlaad.

Lucius Carej, Viscount Falkland.

Henry Danvers Karl of Danby.

Archbishop Laud.

Lionel Cranfleld, Eail of Middlesex.

Henry Somerset, Marquis of Worcester.

Howard, Earl of Arundel and Surrey.

Robert Devereux, Earl of Eiiaex.

Arthur, Lord Capel.

Charles the First.

Lord Herbert of Cherbury.

James, First Duke of Hamilton.

Blanch, Baroness Arundel of Wardour.

Henry Rich, Enrl of Holland.

George Gordon, Marquis of Huntley.

George, Lord Goring.

James Graham, Marquis of Montrose.

Philip Herbert, Earl of Pembroke.

William, Second Duke of Hamilton.

James Stanley, Earl of Derby,

Francis, Lord Colt'.ngtoa.

Ralph, Lord Hopton.

Edward Sackvillc, Earl of Dorset.

John Selden.

James Stuart, Duke of Richmond.

Robrrt Rich, Earl of Warwick.

Oliver Cromwell.

Dorothy Percy, Countess of Leicester.

William Seymour, Marquis of Hertford.

Lucy Percy, Countess of Carlisle.

Archibald Campbell, Marquis of Argyll.

Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia.

Charlotte, Countess of Derby.

Sir Kenelm Digby.

Montague Bertie, Earl of Lindsey.

Edward, Second Marquis of Worcester.

Thomas, Earl of Southampton.

Algernon Percy, Earl of Xorthumberland.

Qu^en ''• rietta Maria.

George Aionk, Duke of Albemarle.

Edward Montagu, Earl of Manchester.

Vnne Hyde, Duchess of York.

.Edward Montagu, Earl of Sandwich.

Thomas, Lord Clifford.

Edward Hyd •, Earl of Clarendon.

uohn Powlett, Marquis of Winchester.

Anne Clifford, ('ounless of Dorset.

William Kerr, Earl of Lothian.

William Cavendish, Duke of Nencaslle.

Sir Matthew Hale.

George Digby, Earl of Bristol.

William Howard, Viscount Stafford.

John Leslie, Duke of Koti.es.

Prince Rupert.

John Maitland, Duke of Lauderdale.

Heneage Finch, Earl of Nottingham.

David Leslie, Duke of Rothes.

Dorothy, Countess of Sunderland.

William, Lord Russell.

Algernon Sidney.

Anne Carre, Countess of Bedfbrd.

Chnrles the Second.

James Scolt, Duke of Monmouth.

Henry Bennet, Karl of -Arlington.

Francis North, Lord Guildford.

ArchihaKl, Ninth Earl of Argyll.

James butler, Duke of Ormond.

170. John Graham, Viscount of DujfRee.

171. Elizabeth Cecil, Countess of Devonshf

172. Honourable Robert Boyle.

173. Archbishop Tillotson.

174. WiIliHm, Earl of Craven.

175. William Russell, Duke of Bedford.

176. Rob.. a Spencer, Earl of Sunderland.

177. Frances 1'heresa, Duchess of Richmon|
IV» .'. .-chibald, I'irat Duke of Argyll.

179. John Locke.

180. Catharine of Braganza.

181. Cavendish, First Duke of Devonshire.|

182. Sidney, Earl of Gudolpbin.

183. Thomas Osborne, Duke of Leeds.

184. Queen .Anne.
18,5. Bish 11/ Burnet.

186. Joh.i, Lord Somers.

187. Charles Talbot, Dukoof Shrewsbury.

188. John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough.

189. Rachael, Lady Russell.

190. Iiobert Harley, Earl of Oxford.
131. Sir Isaac Newton.
192. Bishop Atterbury.
lO.'l. Murdaunt, Earl of Peterborough.

194. John, Second Duke of Argyll.

195. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough.

196. James, Second Duke of Ormond.

197. Robert Walpole, Earl of Orford,

198. Charles, Sixth Duke of Somerset.

199. John, Second Duke of Montagu.

200. llcnry St. John, Viscount Bolingbroko.

201. Richard Boyle, Earl of Burlington.

202. Horatio, First Lord WalpoK-.

203. William PuUeney, Karl of Bath.

204. Philip Yorke, Earl of Hardwicke.
20.5. Thomas Pelham, Duke of Newcastle.

206. John Manners, Marquis of Granby.

207. John Russell, Duke of Bedford.

208. Henry Fox, Lord Holland.

209. Robert, Lord Clive

210. William Pitt, First Earl of Chatham.

211. Admiral Lord Hawke.

212. Wentworth, Second Marquis of Rocking

213. Admiral Viscount Keppcl.

214. George Eliot, Lord Heathfleld.

215. Admiral Lord Rodney.

216. Frederick North, Lord Guildford.

217. John Stuart, Earlof ^ute.

218. Lord Mansfleld.

219. Lord Chancellor Can an,

220. Sir William Jones.

221. Horace Walpole, Esirl of Orford.

222. Jefferey, Lord Amherst.

223. Admiral Earl Howe.

224. Sir Ralph Abercromby.
225 Francis Russell, Duke of Bedford.

226. Admiral Viscount Duncan.

227. Admiral Viscount Nelson.
226. Charles, Marquis Cornwallis. '
229 William, Maniuis of Lansdowne.

230. William Pitt.

231. Charles Janjfs Fox.

232. Admiral Viicount Bridport.

233. Admiral Viscount Hood.

234. The Princess Charlotte of Wales.

235. Sir Joseph Banks, Bart.

236. Admiral the Earl of St. Vincent.
2.'t7. Robert, Earl of Liverpool.

238. Sir Walter Scott, Bart.

239. Admiral Viwount Exmouth.

240. Arthur, Duke of Wellington.

nnADBunv and evans, pniNTsna, whitefriar^

.*-..«.

■*qi«wi"^iW>*"m

^LLIAM SMITH.

—CONTINUED.

John Gruham, Viscount of DuiBee.
EliMboth Ceci), Countess of Devonshire.
Honourable liobert Boyle,
irchblsbop Tlllotson.
iV'iIliam, Karl of Crfivpn.
William Husscll, Duke of Bedford.
Rob..t Spencer, Karl of Siinrlerland.
'ranees Theresa, Duchess of Richmond,
'-.•chibald, rirstDake of Argyll,
fohn Locke.
Catharine of Braganza.
"avendish. First Duke of Devonshire.
iidnty, Earl of Godolphin.
'Iiciinas Osborne, Duke of Leeds.
!ui'en Aline.
lislur, Burnet,
oh.i. Lord Somers.
harles Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury.
3hn Churchill, Duke of Marlborough,
achael. Lady Russell,
obert Harley, Karl of Oxford.
r Isaac Newton,
iiihop Attfrbury.
ordaunt, Farl of Peterborough.
>hn. Second Duke of Argyll,
arah, Duchess of Marlborough,
ime.s .Second Duke of Ormond.
Jbert Walpole, Karl of Orford.
laries. Sixth Duke of Somerset,
hn. Second Duke of .Montagu.
Jnry St. John. Viscount Bolingbroko.
chard Boyle, Earl of Burlington,
iratio, First Lord Walpol,..
illiam Pulteney, Karl of Bath,
ilip Yorke, Farl of Hardwicke.
lomas Pclham, Duke of Newcastle.
Iin Manners, Marquis of Granby.
m Hussell, Duke of Bedford,
nry Fox, Lord Holland,
bert. Lord Olive

Iliam Pitt, First Earl of Chatham,
miral Lord Hawke.

mtworth. Second Marquis of Rockingham,
miral Viscount Keppcl.
orge Eliot, Lord Heathfleld.
niral Lord Rodney,
■derick North, Lord Guildlbrd.
n Stuart, Earl of "^ute.
d MansBeld.
d Chancellor Can tm.
William Jones,
■ace Walpole, Earl of Orford.
er«y. Lord Amherst,
niral Earl Howe.
Ralph Abercromby.
icis Russell, Duke of Bedford,
niral Viscount Duncan,
liral Viscount Nelson,
ries, Marquis Cornwallis.'
liam, Maniuis of Lausdowne.
iam Pitt
rles Janif s Fox.
liral Viicount Bridport.
liral Viscount Hood.
Princess Cliarlotte of Wales.
foseph Banks, Bart,
iral the Earl of St. Vincent,
•rt. Earl of Liverpool.
Valtrr .Scott, Bart,
iral Viscount Exmouth.
iir, Duke of Wellington.

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