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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m*thode. 1 1 . ■ i 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 I I THE \ ()YA(;eS OP CAPTAIN JAMP:S COOK ROUXD THE WORLD. ® ® 'JAlr I' A 111 Ou ') [■ ■II, l' I.- ,'l ll/J /I t" ■ I ■''/ II /ll ^ K' /.■ f I ^/il /l'''l , 1/ 1/ / ,11 /I !''•. ,/, rilMiaiiliiki r (S) Till-: \(»va(;es or CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. nil «Ta«TtD WITH MAPS AND NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. Mieii '■■'VIN.i AN ACCOUNT <»K TIIF. PKESKXT COMHTION OF THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS, iic IN TWO VoM MKS VOL. I. LONDON: WILLIAM SMITH, 113, FLEET STREET. MDCCCXLII. STOP I\l>ri'.-(1V AND Kl'AVS, IT.INTKR1, WHITKKRIARH. 1 I CONTENTS OF TIIK FIRST VOLUMF. List of Illi'sthations Life or C»ptain Cook PACE i.\ FIRST VOYAGE. Introduction to tlic first Voyage PAGE 1 IIIAP. I. BOOK I. The (Kissage from Plymcuitli to Madeira, witli some accoiint of that i^laIul ■-'. The jiassagc from Madeira to Rio dc Janeiro, witli some account of the country, and the incidents tliat liappencd tlicrc 3. Tlio passage from Hio de .Taneirci to the entrance of tlic Stniit of Le Maire, witli a description of some of the inliabitants of Terra del Fucgo 4. An account of what happened in ascending a mountain to search for phmts 5. The passage througli the Strait of Lo Maire, and a furtiier description of the inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, and its productions 6. A general description of the south-east part of Terra del Fuego, and the Strait of Le Maire; wall some remarks on Lord Anson's account of them, and directions fur the jmssage west- ward, round this part of America, into the Souili Seas .... 7. The sequel of the passage from Cape Horn to tlie newly discovered islands in the Soutli Seas, with a description of their figure and appearance. Some account of the inhabitants, and several incidents that happened during the course, and at the ship's arrival among then! . 8, The arrival of the Endeavour at Otaheite, call-d iiy Captain Wallis, King George the Third's Island. Rules established for tratlic with the natives, and an .account of several incidents which happened in a visit to Tootaholi and Touboun:i Tamaide, two Chiefs • . . . . !)■ A place fixed upon for an Observatory and Fort. An excursion into the woods, aiid its consequences. The Fort erected. A visit from several chiefs on board and at the Fort, with some account of the music of the natives, and the manner in which they dispose of their dead 7 ! 19 i I I 21 I 29 32 ■1(1 1,<. 14 CHAP. 10. An excursion to the eastward, an account of several incidents that happened botli on board and on shore, and of tjje first interview with OlK^rea, the person who, when the Dolphin was here, was supposed to be Qncen of the IsUnd, with a description of the Fort . 44 11. Tlie Observatory set up. The quadrant stolen, and consequences of the tlicft. A vifit to Tootahah. Description of a wrest- ling match. Kiiropean seeds sown. Names given to our people by tlie Indians . . 49 12. Some ladies visit the Fort with verv uneom- mon cerenmnies. The Indians attend divine service, and in the evening exiiibit a most extraordinary spectacle. Toubourai Tamaide falls into temptation . . • . ,54 Another visit to Tootahah, with various adven- tures. Extraordinary amusement of the Indians, with remarks upon it. Preparations to observe the transit of Venus, and what happened in the mean time at the Port . 57 , The ceremonies of an Indian funeral particu- larly described. General observations on the subject. A character found among tlic Indians to which the Ancients paid great veneration. A robbery at tlie Fort, and its consequences; with a specimen of Indian cookery, and various incidents An arc^..nt of the circumnavigation of the island, and various incidents that happened during the expedition ; with a description of a burying place and place of worship, called a Moral An expedition of Mr. Banks to trace the river. Marks of subterraneous fire. Preparations' for leaving the island. An account of Tujiia A particular description of the island ; its produce and iidiabitants ; their dress, habita- tions, food, domestic life, and amusements . Of the manufactures, boats, and navigation of Otaheito Of the division of time in Otaheite; numera- tion, comjuitation of distance, langiiiige, diseases, disposal of the dead, religion, war, weapons, and government ; with some general observations fi.r the use of future navigators .'18 15. 16. 1;. ly. 61 m 73 !»0 3?.rr>'j VI CH«P. 20, CONTENTS. V\OF A di-scription of tevcnl other i«lainl» in the lU'iglibuuiliocncd on that part of the coast CHtP. I. 127 3. The range from Tolaga to Mercury Bay, with an account uf many incidents that lup|>oned both on board and on shore. .V description of several views exhibited by the country, and of the llipjahs, or fortified viUa^'cs of the Inhabitan'.s .... 4. The range from Mercury Bay to the Bay of Islands. An e.\pedition up the Kiver Thames. Some account of the Indians who inhabit its banks, and the fine timber that glows theie. Several interviews with the natives on dilTerent parts of the coast, and a skirmish with tlieiu upon an island . 138 148 5. Range from the Bay of Islands round North Cape to (Juecn Charlotte's Sound ; and a description of that part of the coast . . 157 6. Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Pass-iiie through the Strait which divides the two islands, anil back to Cipc Tumagain, Horrid custom of the inhabitants. Remark- able melody of birds. A visit to a llippah, and many other |>articulars . .163 7. Range from Cape Turnagain southward along the eastern cuast of Pocnammoo, round Cape South, and back to the western entrance of Cook's Strait, which completed the circum- navigation of this country ; with a descrip- tion of the coast, and of Admiralty Bay. The departure from New Zealand, and various particulars . . . . 173 8. A general account of New Zealar..! : >>« first discovery, situation, e.Ment, climate, and productions .... 182 9. A description of the inhabitants, their habita- tions, apiKircl, ornaments, food, cookery, and manner of life . . . . 1 87 lU. Of the canoes and navigation of the inhabitants of New Zealand ; their tillage, weapons, and music ; government, religion, and language : with some reasons against the existence of a Southern Continent . . . 193 3. 4. 5. BOOK III. PAGR The lun from New Zealand to Botany Bay, on the Eist Cosist of New Holland, now railed New .-io'illi Wales ; various incidents that hap[>ened there; with some account of the eouutiy and its inhabiiants . . 201 The range from Botany Bay to Trinity Bay ; with a further account jf the country, its inhabitants, and productions . . 212 Dangerous situation of the ship in her course from Trinity Bay to Kndeavour River . . 227 Transactions wliile the ship was refittin- in Endeavour River. A description of the adja- cent country, its inhabitants, and productions 232 Peparlure from Endeavour River. A particular description of the h.arbour there, in which the ship was refitted, the adj.aeent country, anil several islands near the coast. The range from Endeavour River to the northern extieniity of the country, and the dangers of that navigation . . . . 24.'t 6. Departure from New South Wales. A parti- cular description of the eoiintiy, its products and [H-ople. A s|)ecimen of the language, and some observations upon the currents and tidej ..... 258 7. The passage from New South Wales to New Guinea, with an account of what happened upon landing there . . . . 2C)9 8. The pass-ige from New Ouinea to the Island of Savu, and the trans-tctions there . . 275 !•. A particular description of the Island of Savu, its produi'Q and inhabitants, with a specimen of their language . . . . 282 10. The run from the Island of Savu to flat.ivia, and anaccount of the transactions there while the ship W.1S refitting . . . 292 11. Some account of Batavia, and the adj.iccnt country, with their fruits, flowers, and other productions . . . . . 2.09 12. Some account of the inhabitants of Batavia, and the adjacent country, their manners, ciistoDis, and manner of life . . 309 1 3. The pass.ige from Batavia to the Cape of Ciood Hope. Some accoimt of Prince's Island, and its inhabitants, and a comparative view of their language, with the JMalay and Javanese . . . . . SIC 14. Our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. Some remarks on the run from .Tava Head to that place. A descriptiim of the Cape and of Saiut Helena. With some account of the Hottentots, .and the return of the ship to England . . . . 322 i PkOt Day, , now iilciita iiiit of CONTENTS. SECOND VOYAGE. 201 Bay ; ly, its course 21-; 227 in- in c adja- ictions 232 ■ticiilar wliich iinitrv, Tiic )rtlicrn iglTS of CJenerai Inthoduction to tlic Second Voyage P«C.P. , 333 BOOK II. 24:. V parli- roducts iiguagc, urrcnts 25B to New ippoDcd . . 2(iy iknd of . 275 f Savti, iccimcn . 282 [iatavia, re wiiile . 292 iljaccnt id oilier 2.0!) Batavia, laiiiiers, of Good Island, vo view ay and 309 . 316 Sonic to that and of of the ship to 322 BOOK I. FhOM OL'R DEPARTl'llR FROM RngI.AND, TO LEAVING THE ."■'ociETV Isles, the first time. CHAP. 1. Passage from Dcptford to the Cape of Oood Hope, with an acconnt of bcvcimI incidents that happened by the way, and traneactions there . . . . . . 343 2. Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a Southern Continent . . 350 3. Sequel of the search for a Southern Continent, between the nieridinn of tiic Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand ; with an account of the separation of the two ships, and tlio arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay . .360 4. Trans-octions in DhsUv B.-iy, with an account of several interviews with the inhabitants . . 3C9 5. Directions for sailing in .ind out of Dusky Bay, with an account of the adjacent country, its produce, and inhabitants. Astronomical and nautical observations . . . 378 6. Passage from Dnsky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an account of some water sjiouts, and of our joining the Adventure . . 382 7. Captain Fumeaux's narrative, tVoni the lime the two ships were separated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some account of Van Die men's Land . . 383 8. Transactions in Queen Chailottc's Sound, with some remarks on tiio inhabitants . . 388 9. Route from New Zealand to Otalicite, will: an account of some low islands, supposed to bo the same that were seen by M. de Bougain- ville . . . . .392 10. II. 12. 13. The arrival of the ships at Otalicite, with an acrount of the critic.tl situation they were in, and of several incidents that happened while they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay . . , 397 An account of several visits to and from Otoo ; of goats being left on the island ; and many other particulars which happened while the ships lay in Matavai Bay . . . 401 An account c the reception we met with at Iluaheinc, with the incidents that happened while the shijis lay there, and of Oniai, one of the natives, coming away in the Adventure . . . , . 404 Arrival at, and departure of the ships from Ulietea ; with an account of what happened there, and of Oedidoe, one of the natives, coming away in the Rcsidulion . . 408 14. An account of a Spanish ship visiting Otalicite ; the present state of the islands ; with some observations on the diseases and customs of the inhabitants, and some mistakes concern- ing tlio women corrected . . ". 412 From oi-ii departi're from the Society Isles, to uvn RETl'RN to, and LEAVING THEM THE SECOND TIME. CHAP. PAGE 1. Passage from I'lictea to the Friendly Islands; with an .iccount of the iliscovery of Ilervey's Iiland, and the incidents that hajipened at Middleburg .... 41.5 2. The .irrival of the ships at Amsterdam ; a descriptiim of a place of worship; and an .iccount of the incidents wliich happened while they reuiaincd at that island . . . 418 3. A description of the islands and their produce, with the cultivation, houses, canoce, na^iga- tion,nianiifactures, weapons, customs, govern- ment, religion, and language oftlie inhabitants 424 4. Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's Sound ; with an account of an interview with the inhabitants, and the final separation of the two ships .... 429 5. Tl'imsactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound ; with an account of the inhabitants being caiiniliiils ; and various other incidents. Dipartmc from the Sound, and our endeavours to fiiiil the Adventure ; with some description of the coast , . . . . . 433 6. Route of the ship from New Z'.aland in search of a Continent ; with an .iccount of tho various nbstructioiis met w.:'' from the ice, and the methods pursued to explore the Southern Pacilic Ocean . . . 438 7. Sequel of the passage from New Zealand to Easter Island, .ind transactions there ; with an .iccount of an expedition to discover tho inland jiart of tho country, and a description of some of the sn' mg gigantic statues found in the isluiul . . . . 448 8. A description of the island, its produce, situa- tion, and inhabitants ; their manners and customs; conjectures concerning their govern- ment, religion, and other subjects; with a more particular account of their gigantic statues . . . • .452 9. The passage from Easter Island to the Mar- quesas Islands. Transactions and incidents which happened while the ship l.iy in Madro dc Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the Island of St. Christina . . • . . 450' 10. Departure from the M.irquesas; a description of the situation, extent, figure, and appear- ance of the several islands ; with some account of the inhabitants, their customs, dress, habitations, food, weapons, and canoes ..... 439 11. A description of several islands discovered, or seen in the jiass^ige from the Marquesas to Otalicite ; with an account of a naval review 462 12. Some account of a visit from Otoo, Towlia, and several other chiefs ; also of a robbery committed by one of the natives, and its consequences, with general observations on the subject . . . • • 46(> via CONTENTS. cn«p. PAor. I'J. Prrparaliom to leave the island. Anotlicr Doval ii-riew. ami various otlitT iiiciilcnte ; with iiiine arcmiut of tlie island, its naval furcc, and nuuibcr of inhabitants . . 472 II. The arrival r.f the ship at the Island of Hua- hcine ; with an aecount of an cx|>c(lition into the isluml, and M'veral other incidents which happened while she lay there . . • 477 IV .\rriv.M at I'lietea, with on account of the reception we met with there, and the several incidents which happened durini: our stay. A report of two ships being at Huaheine. Preparstiiins to leave the inland, and the regret the inhabitants showed on the occasion. The character of Oedidcc, with some general obscrvatiuus uu the island . . . 481 BOOK III. From I'liete* to Xeiv Zealand. 1 . Pass-ige from I'lietea to the Friendly Isles ; with a difcription of scveril islands that were discovered, and the incidents which happened in that tiacl: . . . . 48G Reception at Anamocka; a robbery and its conH-quenci'S, with a variety of other inci- dents. I>e|>arture from the island. A sailing caiioc ile^crihed. .Sonic observations on tho oavieatiiMi of these inlanders. A description of the island, and of those in the neighbour- hood, with some account of the inhabitants, and nautical remarks . . . . CHAP. PAGE 10. Proceedings on tho roast of New Caledonia, with geographical and nautical idiservations 535 1 1. .Sequel of the passage from New Caledonia to New Zealand, with an account of the dis- covery of Norfolk Island ; and 'he incidots that happened while the ship lav i.. (.^uceu Charlottu's Sound . . ' . .542 490 The passage from the Friendly Isles to the New Hebrides ; with an aecount of the discovery of Turtle Island, and a variety of incidents which liappened, both hcfure and after the ship arriveil in Port Sandwich in the Island of MallicoUo. A description of the Port ; the a 'Jacent country ; its inhabitants, and many other particulars 4. 495 .\n arronnt of the discovery of several island*, an iu'.erview and skirmish with tlie inhabit- ants Ujoin one of them. The arrival of the ship at Tauna, and the reception we met with there . . . . . . 501 An intercourse established with the natives ; some account of the island, and a variety of incidents that happened during our st.iy at it 507 Departure from Tanna : with some account of its inhabitants, their manners and arts . 5IG The survey of the Islands continued, and a more particular description of them , . 519 An account of the discovery of New Caledoniii, and the incidents that hajipened while the ship lay in lialade .... 526 A description af the country and its inhabitants; their uauuers, customs, .ind arts , . b'M BOOK IV. FllOM LEAVING NeW ZkaLAND TO OUH RETURN TO England. 1 . The run from New Zealand to Terra del Fucgo, with the ranfto from Capo Dcseada to Christmas Sound, and description of that part of the coast . . . . . 54)( 2. Transactions in Christmas Sound, with an account of the country and its inhabitants . 553 3. Range from Christmas Sound, round Cipc Horn, through Strait f.e Maire, and round Staten Land ; with an Jiccount of the dis- covery of a harbour in tliat island, and a description of tho coasts . . . . 557 4. Observations, geogra]>liical and nautical ; with an account of the islands near Statca Land, and the animals found in them . . 561 5. Proceedings after leaving Staten Land ; with an .iccount of the discovery of the Isle of Georgia, and a description of it . . . 505 ()• Proceedings after leaving the Isle of Georgia, and an account of the discovery of Saudwich Land ; with some reasons for there being land about the South Pule . . 570 7. Heads of what has been done in the voyage ; with some conjectures concerning tho form- ation of ice-islands ; and an account of our proceedings till our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope . . . . . 57fi 8. Captain Furneaiix's narrative of his proceedings in the Adventure, from the time ho wassepa- rated from the Resolution, to his arrival in Kngland ; including Lieutenant IJurney'g report concerning the boat's crew who were murdered by tho inhabitants of Queen Char- lotte's Sound . . . .581 f). Transactions at the Cape of Good Hope; with an account of Fomf discoveries made hy the French ; and the arrival of the ship at St. Helena . . . . 686 10. Passage from St. Helena to the Western Islands, with a description of the isl.inds of Ascension and Fernando Noronha . . 589 11. Arrival of the ship at the island of Fayal, a description of the place, and the return of the Resolution to England . . . 593 * I ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. L 561 5()5 576 686 589 593 1- liiK l"Ni>iAVorH Api'iii)a(Iiis(. (irMiKiTi-; -• Miuiim ....... >'. ll-ShHIIKF ....... ■I. lUv Of Uio OK Jankihu . . . . • 5. Hud ck a I'ifgian 6. I'lKGlAN ViLLACiK 7. l'"l'K(iHN CaNOF ...... 8. I'llLVNFSIAN KlaNI) C'dKAL l'"oRMATION •'•• Ckystai. Ditto !''• Volcanic Ditto 1 1. Uhfad Khuit ...... 12. Nativfs or Otaiikitf Trading with Captain Cook 13. Canoes of Otaiuitf ..... 14. Head of an Otahfitean .... 15. Transit OF Vfm's ..... I'f. DoiBLK Canof uini (■anoi'y 17. MohAi of Oamo and Obfiifa .... 18. Mountain Scfnkhv in Otiiikitf . 19. Hkad or Otaiieitfan Woman .... 20. Mat-wohk Tii'I'ft ok a Chief 21. Caps 22. Ma.ntle 23. InTFKIOR of a IVlLYNFSIAN IIot'SE 24. Flute anu Dhum Player .... 2.'). Cloth-ueatino Mallft ..... 26. SrEciMENs of Cloth ..... 27. Masket-work .... 2R. FisiiiN(i-iiooKs and Harpoons 29. Tools 30. Adzes ....... 31. Section of a Pahie ..... 32. Otahfitean Hier ..... 33. Kinekal Orfss ...... 'M. SpEtliMENS OF TAITOHINCi .... Fioni a DiawiiiL' In- IIi(;i.i.ns Kii;ji;ivi'il Titli'. I'loiii a Dniwini; l>y Anfuy Mrs. (iiiiliiiiii's Voya(;(' to iIk- Ilra/.iU KlCFNDAs' " 1,1'b Bii'sils." .... Voy:i).'i'9 of tlie AdvontuiT iiiiil I{f,ai.^li- - Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto .... DfsigiiC'.l aftor.1 Vic^v by Missionary Williams Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto . Cook's First Voyage; anil Diet. Hist. Naturelle— Plaudit's I)otanii|iivs .... Designed from a Plate in Cominodoiv Wallis' Voyage ...... Designed from Plates in Cook's Voyages . I'ainting by Wfiibfh .... Pliilosopliical Transactions, Vol. LXl. Cook's Voyages ..... Designed from Plates in Voyage de L'Astrolalie William's Soiitli Sea Islands Painting by Wfbbfr ..... Specimens in llie British Museum . Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto .... Designed from Plates in Cook's Voyages Ditto Ditto . Cook's First Voyage ..... Speeiiuens in the Uiitish Miiscniu . Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto .... Ditto Ditto Cook's First Voyage ..... Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Diito DuMONT uTrvillf, Voyage dc I'Astrolahe 4 >! II 21 25 28 33 35 36 37 41 47 ,■.3 01 08 71 74 80 81 82 83 84 88 90 91 93 94 95 95 97 102 102 105 ILLUSTRATIONS. I' 35. Wfapons etc. of Ot*heite 36. Ann of llr^HFiNK .... 37. Native of Ohftfboa . . . . 38. Taking in Water on a Low niAcii 39. Great Canoe of IFicks's Bay . 40. Vinv or A IIippAii, or Fortified Village 41. Canof Pitting off . . , . 42. New Zealandeh in War Costume 43. View in the Bay of I-slanos , 44. Interior of a IIippah 45. Canoe with carved decorations . 46. Clubs of New Zealand . 47. New Zealander expressing defiance 40. New Hollander with the Boomehang 49. Spear IIfads 50. Nativfs of New Holland 51. Botany Bay 52. Mangrove Tree . . . . . 53. Kanguroos ..... 54. Heads of New Hollanders 55. New Hollander csing the throwing-stici< 56. New Holland Shield . . . . 57. Trees of New Gi.inea 58. Savi- Blffaio 59. Stilted HorsES of Savt 60. Fan Palm CI. Batavia ...... 62. Chinese Shops . . . . . 63. Table Bay, Cape of Good Hope . 64. Ice Islands ...... 65. Pengiins ...... 66. Albatross ...... C7. Pov Bird ...... C8. Yams and Plantains . . • . 69. Otaheitean Hogs .... 70. View of HuAiiriNE ..... 71. Afiatoica 72. Bli'e Peterfl ..... 73. Natives of the Marqiesas . 74. War-dress of Otaheite .... 75. Coral Rocks ..... 76. Sailing Canoes of .Vnnatnooka 77. Nose Ornament of Mallicollo . 78. INIallicollo Bow ..... 79. Landing at Erromango 80. View in the Island of Tansa 81. Rats and Trap ..... 82. Stone Hatchet of Tanna . PAUK Specimens in the British Musenm . . . 107 Cook's First Voyage . . . . . . 110 Cook's First Voyage 120 Dumont d'Urville, Voyage dc rAttrolabe . . 133 Ditto Ditto . .138 Ditto Ditto . . . . 145 Ditto Ditto .149 Ditto Diito . . . . 154 Ditto Ditto . . . 157 Ditto Ditto . . . 168 Plates to Cook's First Voynje . . . .193 Ditto Ditto 195 Drawing in !Sir J. Banks's Collection, British Museum . . • . . .196 Mitchell's Australia ... ... 205 Ditto Ditto 206 DiMoNT d'Uhville, Voyage de I'.Vstiolabe . . 207 Ditto Ditto . .211 Wood's Zoograpliy . . . . . . 217 The foregrounil figure from Cook's Plate ; the second, showing its appearance iu the Ion? -ZTtsif fioiu Mitchell's .Australia .... 241 DuMONT d'L'kville 262 AIitchfll's Australia 266 {Spcrinicn in the possession of the Rev. Charles Williams, Religious Tr i Stcicty . . . 267 Cook's Plates and Wfbber's Draw!n'.r5 . . . 274 Sydney Lithograph ...... 283 Du.MONT d'Urville ...... 285 Rhuniphius. Herbarium Amboinensis . . . 286 r Dutch Print in the King's Collection, British |_ Museum ....... 301 Dumont d'I'rville . . . . . . 314 Daniells' Scenery of South Africa . . . 324 Original Drawing ....... 353 Si)ceimcn and Groups in Cook's Folio Plates . 356 .Specimen in British Museum . . . . 3ii0 Ditto, and Cook's Quarto Plates .... 380 Origin.il Drawing 398 Original Drawing 403 Cook's Atlas 404 Cook's Atlas . 420 Specimen in British Museum . . . . . 444 Cook's Atlas 460 Drawing in Banks's Collection, British Museum . 465 From a Drawing by Webber .... 488 From a Drawing by Hodgfs . .... 493 Cook's Text ....... 500 Cook's Text ....... 500 Cook's Collection, British Museum . . . 504 Cook's Collection, British Museum . . . 510 Drawing by Fussell . . . . . .514 Cook's Text 518 ILUISTRATIONS. PAUB . 107 . . no . 120 . . 133 . 138 . . U5 . 149 . . 154 . 157 . . 168 . 11*3 . . 135 ritUli . 196 . . 205 . 206 . . 207 . 211 . . 217 ; the . 211 . . 262 . 2(J6 larles . . 267 . 274 . . 283 . 285 . . 286 ritish . 301 . . 314 . 324 . . 353 . 35»; . . 3i;o . 380 . ■ 398 . 403 . . 404 . 420 . . 444 . 460 u . 465 . 488 . . 493 . 500 . . 500 . 504 . . 510 . 514 . . 518 13. FiRK.RTONEB OF NfW ('.4LFUONIA ^i. Norfolk Island I'ine '■'• Christmas Sounu . . . . *^''. Sra Bears ..... ^7. Ska Lion *^^. N'a FIVES OF Qi FEN Charlotte's Sound '^9- St. Helena Cook's Text ...... DrawiiiL' by W. Westali Drawing by Hodges ..... Spcrinicns in Hiitisli Mtisi-uin S])ociincii8 in Hiitisli Miiseiiiii r Dcsifjiied from Autbniilics in Banks's Collection [ Hiitisli Museiiiii, and Dumont D'Urvillk . From an Originiil Drawing .... xi PAOB 5;« .542 5(i3 ri8a ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II. '■'<1. Cape Town . . . . . 01. KeRGI'FLFn's liAND ..... "2. Man of Van Diemen's Lano .... "3. Immense Tree of Van Diemen's Land . 04. Man of .Mangeea 9'>. View in Annamooka ..... ^a. BoXlNlJ-MATrH AT Hapaee . . . , 97. Female Ballet at IIapaee .... 98. PouLAiio drinking Kava .... 99. Head of Poi'laho 100. Natciie in honoi'r ok the King's Son 101. jMats, Baskets, and Fancv-work of the Women of the Fhiendlv Islands .... 102. Adzes, Knives, Files, of the Friendly Islands 103. Fishing Implements, Ditto 104. Musical Instruments, Ditto .... 105. Human Sacrifice at the Great Morai of Otaheite 106. Heeva Raa — Dancf, of Wo.men 107. Portrait or Omai ..... ion. Morai at Atooi, with Pyramid . 109. Caps of the Sandwich Islanders 110. Sandwich Islander in his Full Dress Cap an Cloak ....... 111. Women OF the Sandwich Islands . 112. Fashions of Hair among the Sandwich Islanders 113. Bracelet ....... 114. Huts of the Sandwich Islanders . 1 15. Patterns of Dresses .... 116. Dagger and Flesh Knives .... 117. NooTKA Sound Canoe .... 118. Virginian Deer ...... 1 1 9. Natives of Nootka Sound .... 120. Dress of Natives of Nootka Sound 121. Mabqur" and Decorations or Nootka Sound Daniells' S. African Scenery, vol. ii. Drawing by WEnnEii. Coiik's Atlas . Drawing by Wfbbeu. Cook's Atlas l>awing by Dimont D'I'hville Drawing by Webber. C'ook's Atlas Drawing by Webber Drawing by Webber .... Drawing by \»'ebber Drawing by Webbfr .... Drawing by Webber Drawing by AN ebiier .... I Specimens in tbc Museum of the London I sionary Society, Mooifields . Ditto Ditto . Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto . Painting by Webber Painting by Webber .... Painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds Painting by Webber .... Specimens in the British Museum i- Specimens in the British Museum . Painting by Webber Dalrvmple's Voyage .... Drawing by Webber Drawing by Webber Specimens in British ISIuseuni Drawing by Webber .... Drawing by VVebber Pennant's Arctic Zoology Painting by Webber Designed from Webber's Paintings . Designed from Webber's Paintings Mis 22 27 39 40 67 88 94 97 107 111) 131 149 1,50 151 152 173 178 201 236 238 247 247 248 248 249 251 2.55 263 272 2/5 276 278 ILLUSTRATIONS 122. IIofSES OF XoOTKA SolNO .... 123. SLKrPINCi HKNtllKS Ol NilOTKA SoiND I2>. Natchkua AND Matsefta — Idols OK Xootka Soin 125. .MooK uF CuoKiNn in Nootka Sound 12(). Man of Uonalasiika ..... 127. TllR TsClll'TSKI AND TIIFIH HABITATIONS 128. Cap of the Nativfs of Oonahmika 129. Interior of a Hut of Oonai,4siika 130. Fishing Canoe ...... I.'il. Kankf.na in his Helmet .... 132. Terhkfoboo's Canoe ..... 133. PaNCER OF THE S.»ND«lrll IsL\NDS . 131. Taho, OR Sweet Potato — Ipomiea Batatis . 135. Necklace and Pendant ..... 13(). Fly-flap 137. Masquers in a Canoe . . . • . 138. Hahboi'u and Town of St. Peter and St. Paul 139. Sledoe Travelling in Ka.mtschatka 140. Town of Bolcheretsk 141. The Sarana — Lilum Kamscmatcen.se 142. Sweet Gras» — Hfraclkum Sibiricum 143. Wolverine — I'lisus Lu.seus .... 144. Man and Woman of K^mtsciiatka 145. Interior of a .Ioirt, oh Wintfh IIauitation of Kamtschatka ...... { Painting by Wfr:ieu .... Puiiiting by Wfiibeh . . . . . Piiiiiting by Webber .... Painting by Webber .... Pninting by Webber .... Painting by Webber .... Painting by Webber .... Painting by WrnnEH .... Designed from Painting by Webber P.iiming by Webber .... Painting by Webber .... Painting by Webber .... Plate in Riiekde's Hort'i^ ludiciis Malnb.iriciu Spvciiuens in tbe Museum of tbe l.ionilon sionary Society ..... Spcrinieiis in tbe Museum of the Loudon sionaiy Society .... Painting by Webber .... Painting by Wfbber .... Painting by Webber .... Painting by AVebbfh .... Linn.T.'in Tninsactions, Vol. X. Gmelin, Floiica Sibirica, Tom. I. Cuvier, Konograpbie du Rtgue Animal . Painting by Webber .... Mis- Mis- > P.iintiag by Webber PACE . 281 . 282 . 283 . 284 . 302 . .331 . 3.J4 . 355 . 357 371 . 376 . 380 , 415 420 420 422 438 440 450 494 49.5 497 503 509 MAPS. .Map of the World, siioaving the Track of each Voyage " New Zealand ....... " The Society Islands " Til " Australia Phe Society Islands 1 Phe Sandwich Islands J To face page 1, Vol. I. 121, Vol. II. Frontispiece, Vol. II. To face page 1, Vol. II. PAGE . 281 . 282 . 283 . 284 . ;102 . 331 . 3 J4 . ;!55 . 357 371 . 376 , 380 . 415 420 420 422 438 44G 450 494 495 497 503 509 LIFE OK CAPTAIN JAMKS COOK. Some account of the life of this truly great man— one whose unobtrusive modesty, conspicuous alike in his actions and his writings, only made his fani?' the more purely bright — is the fitting preface to the history of his greatest achieve- ments; that is to say, those by which he most directly served his country, for in considering his moral history, that of the growth, cultivation, and expansion of his mind, we find the greatest and most extraordinary had been ofFcctcd long before his name was knoAvn beyond " the Service." A faithful account of the early days of Cook, could it be obtained, would give us better data for forming a sound judgment on his character than is usually procured from infor- mation gleaned after fame has been reaped. All the most material events of his honourable career are mentioned in the account of his services and sketch of his career given by Captain King, in his journal of the events of the voyage subsequent to the death of his lamented leader (see infra vol. ii. p. 387-9), and we can add but little to it. James Cook was born on the 27th October 1728, at Marton, in Cleveland, a village about four miles from Great Ayrton in the County of York, and was bap- tised in the parish church there, on the 3rd November following. His father was then a day-labourer on a farm, and resided in one of the mud cottages common in that neighbourhood ; but his circumstances were somewhat improved soon after, as in 1730 he was appointed hind or bailiff to Thomas Scottowe, Esq., and entrusted with the care of a large farm at Ayrton, whither he removed. Up to the age of thirteen his son James, who was one of a family of nine children, remained at home, assisting as far as his strength would permit in the ordinary duties of the farm. He was then sent to school at Ayrton, where he learnt m riting and arithmetic, reading- having been apparently picked up before. To what point that reading had extended — what influence it exercised over his young mind, we have no record beyond a traditionary statement that he displayed " a very early genius for figures," In Janilary 1745 he was put apprentice to a shopkeeper at Snaith, but on discovering an inclination to the sea, his master gave up his indentures, and in July 1746 he XIV LIFE OF CAI'TAIN JAMKS (OOK. i iirticlfd himself tor three years to Mr. J. Walker, a shipowner engaged in the coal trade at AVhitby. The coal trade has been the nursery of many good seamen, and in it Cook evidently acquired no common degree of nautical skill. He first ^sailed in the Frcelovc, a collier trading between Newcastle and London, where he remained till 174H; when his master, who already perceived his worth, and was desirous to give him all the advantages in his power, sent for him to NN'hitby that he might have an ojiportunity of improving himself in his profession, by assisting in the rigging and fitting out a new vessel of six hundred tons, called the Three Brothers, in which he sailed about the latter end of June, first in two trips to London in the coal trade, and afterwards, the ship being taken up as a transport, to INIiddleburg, Dublin, Liverpool, and Deptford, (where the ship was paid offj, finishing the season in the Norway trade. In the spring of 1750 he left Mr. >\'alker's service, and entered on board the Marian of Whitby, engaged in the IJaltic trade. The next year he passed in a vessel belonging to Stockton, the name of which has not been preserved ; and in February 175!2 he returned to Mr. A\'alker, who made him mate of one of his vessels, the Friendship, in which capacity he continued until he resolved to enter the navy ; " having," to use his own words, " a mind to try his fortune that way." Ho was furnished with a letter of recommendation from Mr. Walker, and another which, at the request of several of his friends and neighbours, was written for him by Mr. Osbaldiston, MP. for Scarborough ; and thus provided, he in 1755 entered the king's service on board the Eagle, a sixty- gun ship, then commanded by Captain Hamcr : that officer was shortly superseded by Sir Hugh Palliser, who, much to his honour, recognised Cook's merits, and transferred him from the forecastle to the quarter-deck, thus laying the foundation for his future superstructure of fame. This fact should not be forgotten, when the name of Sir Hugh Palliser is called to mind. We have no detailed accounts of the upward progress of the untutored collier apprentice, who, by the force of his own merits alone, had at so v"arly a period won the rank of a gentleman, and become entitled to associate on equal terms with the educated and the high-born. But it was rapid ; the same untiring energy and steady pursuit of one object which appears ever to have ruled him to the last moment of his life, that of concentrating all his ener;,'ies for the discharge of immediate duties, without weakening them by vain anticipations of the future, very soon procured him additional rank. On the 15th of May 1759, he was appointed a master in the navy on board the Mercury, and in that vessel joined the fleet before Quebec, then commanded by Sir Charles Saunders, who immediately employed him in making a complete draught of the channel and river of St. Lawrence, which chart was published. In September in the same year he was transferred to the Northumberland, the flag- ship of Lord Colville, who had the command of the squadron stationed on the coast of America. " It was here," says Captain King, " as I have often heard him LIKli Ui CAPTAIN JA.MKS ( OOK. xv say, that, ihnini,' a hard v iiitc-r, he first reail Euclid, and applii-d hiiiiMlf to iht- study of inatliiniatics and astronomy, without any otlicr assistance ihan what a lew books and his own industry afforded him." Wliilst attached to these vessils, we learn from Captain King that " Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge the execution of services of the first import- ance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Mont- morency ; conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham ; examined the passage and laid buoys for the security of the large ships in jjrocecding up the river;" services of immense importance, yet performed by a man, chosen from many who had enjoyed infinitely greater advantages of education, but who had not learned like Cook to do something more than qualify themselves for the ordinary routine of duty. I'p to the time he entered His Majesty's service, he knew little or nothing of the theory of navigation. With what earnestness he must have studied to fit himself for the thorough performance of the duties, which their confidence in his undcviating fidelity led his superiors to impose upon him, is evinced by his executing such arduous services at tlie very time when he was occupied in learning how they could be accomplished. His conduct gained him the warm friendship of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colville, " who continued to patronise him during the rest of their lives with the greatest zeal and affection." At the close of the war he was, on the recommenda- tion of Lord Colville and his old friend Sir Hugh Palliser, engaged in a survey of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coasts of Newfoundland ; an employment in which he continued till 1767, when he was fixed upon by Sir Edward Hawke to take charge of the expedition intended to be sent out for the purpose of observing the transit of Venus in the South Seas. Before that period he had, however, made a visit to England, where, in the latter end of the year 1762, he married Miss Elizabeth Batt, of Barking, Essex. In the early part of the next year he returned to Newfoundland, where he continued to act as Surveyor first with Captain Graves, and afterwards under Sir Hugh Palliser. Many of the marks which he erected for surveying purposes arc still visible, and recall the memory of their author, whilsv, the changes which have taken place in the condition of those shores (which are stated by Sir R. Bonnycastle to be rapidly sinking and consequently much altered in their bearings and general appearance since their windings were delineated by the hand of Cook) forcibly remind us of the vast alterations moral and political which have since then changed the aspect of the whole world, and nowhere in a greater degree than in those far distant and undiscovered lands to which his destinies were now about to call him. In 1767, when upon the representations of the Royal Society that an accurate observation of the approaching transit of Venus over the Sun's disc would materi- ally serve the cause of science, and that such an observation could nowhere be made with such advantage as on some one of the islands of the South Sea, King George the Third, who ever delighted in forwarding every scheme which promised any ■RPil \VI MFK OF ( AI'TAIN J.A.MKS (OOK. incroasc of scientific knowKnlijt', ami wlin had already sent forth two expeditions of discovery, one of winch, that under ^Vallis and ( 'arteret, was yet at :iea, immediately determined that the M-ishes of the Society should not only he fulfilled, hut that advantaf^e should he taken of the occasion for sending forth a third expedition, better provided with every requisite for prosecuting researches through regions yet unexplored tlian had ever been sent forth by any nation. The whole success of this project depended upon the choice of the man who was to conduct it, and Cook, a humble Master in the Navy, totally unfriended by birth or fortune, but who [lossessed friends won and fast fixed by his conspicuous merit, was singled out for an employment perhaps the most truly honourable that could have been imposed upon any officer. It was, however, necessary that the rank of the commander of a vessel, destined for such an enterprise, should be in some degree commensurate Avith its importance, and accordingly Cook received his commission as lieutenant on the Jioth of May, 17(J8, and took his final departure from Plymouth on the 520th of August. In a memoir jirefacing the account of the three several voyages of discovery, which Cook conducted with a judgment and correspondent success never excelled, if ever equalled, we are not called on to trace his course, and this is the less needful here, as Captain King has already done so in his Journal (vol. ii. p. 3SH), and we shall have occasion to direct attention to it in the earlier parts of the Appendix. From the time of Captain Cook's embarking in the Endeavour, all that we know of his history is comprised in the records of his voyages ; from these a very fair estimate of his personal worth may be formed, but the most pleasing is that afforded by the testimony of his pupil, companion, and friend, Captain King, who, in the sketch we have before referred to has well depicted the character of his beloved commander. The great charm, and the real use of all biography, consists much more in the insight we are able to gain of the true character, as it is displayed without disguise in the homely details of domestic life and friendly intercourse, than in a review of the circumstances attending the public life of the subject of the memoir. There is more interest in the history of the man than that of the hero. But we have no materials of this sort to interweave with our bare narrative of the public acts of a man who spent all his best days in the unceasing service of his country. No memorials of his domestic life, of those few hours of relaxation snatched from long protracted years of toil, have been preserved to us. Only the love and veneration with which the comrades of his toil regarded their leader, do not permit a doubt that he was not less estimable as a husband and father. On his return from his first voyage, he was promoted to the rank of commander ; and in 1775, on the completion of the voyage in search of a southern continent, he obtained his post rank, and was also rewarded with a valuable situation in Greenwich Hospital ; and on his death a pension of £200 per annum was settled by the king on his widow, and £2o per annum on each of his children, of whom he LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMKS (()(»K. XVII left throo, n'.'ithcr of whom lonj? siirvivetl him. Natlianiil. the srcond son, who was a nii(I>lii])mnii on board tlic Tliun(Ui"r. ('ommo»h)it' W'aUinijham, was lo>t witlitliiv' vessel, which fouiulored at sea, lie l)eiiii» then only sixteen years old. Huuh, the younj^'est child, who was a student at C'h^i^t's t'ollei:e, C'anihridge, died there in 1TJ)3, beinj^ then only seventeen years of ago; and in the next year James, the eldest son, then commander of the Spitfire sloop of war, was drowned in his thirty-second year with his whole boat's crew off the Isle of \N iijht. A daughter had previously died of a dropsy when about twelve years of age. Thus a few short years beheld the widow of the great navigator left alone in the world bereft of idl the ties Avhieh were most dear to her. She long survived ; but ever observed four melancholy anniversaries, on each recurrence of which she was accustomed to seclude herself, and give up her thoughts to the memory of the dead. She had fixed her re>idenee at Clapham, that she might enjoy the society of her son James, whenever his duties called him to London, and there she continued to re>ide until death at length called her, in her ninety-fourth year, to rejoin those whom she had so long lamented. Her circum- stances, independently of her pension, were easy, and she left large sums to various charities ; but her most precious relic, the Copley medal, which had been voted to her husband for his improved method of preserving the health of seamen during long voyages, but which he did not live to receive, she bequeathed to the Ihitish Museum. The remarkable point in Cook's character appears to be this : that although from his boyhood he desired to reach beyond the point he occupied, his ambition, if we must, for fault of a better, use a very invidious term, never led him, as he himself would have expressed it, to go beyond soundings. He pursued a steady, upright career; his course was ever forward; as he proceeded he gained knowledge. His knowledge led to a novel discipline on board our " scientific navy," of which he was the founder, Captain J. C. lloss being the latest and right worthy follower. In the account of his first voyage Captain Cook lies under a double disadvantage. His journals were " fitted for the press," as vile a proceeding as fitting" Shakspeare for the stage," (a proceeding now happily explodi-d), by Dr. Hawkesworth, who contrived to make them unpopular by some very uncalled-for interpolations of his own ; and secondly, by the presence of Mr. (afterwards Sir Joseph) Banks, which, although submitted to with due deference to the powers above, was evidently irksome to the man, who, knowing himself equal to the conduct of every branch of inquiry, with the assistance of capable and conformable assistants, felt himself in a disagreeable and somewhat equivocal position with one, who, though not officially, was virtually a sort of overseer, independent of his control. In a ncte, vol. i. p. 337, we noticed the disagreement which prevented Mr. Banks from accompanying Cook on his second voyage. It has been said (but by a spiteful enemy of Banks, who did not publish his statement till the object of his hatred was no more), that Cook wilfully caused Mr. Banks's accommodations to be curtailed, in order to !: XVIU LIFK OF CAl>TAIN JAMES C(X)K. disgust him. There is very little doubt that Cook did not wish for his company, nor wo'ld the companionship of any man, however amiable, be easily tolerated on the terms on which Mr. Banks had once sailed, and proposed to sail again — as one almost, if not quite, independent of the captain — almost his equal on the quarter- deck, where no equa' can be borne without death to discipline, even in the presence of royalty. Cook M^as glad that Banks did not sail again with him, but he was above a dirty trick to get rid of him. Captain Cook was plain and unassuming in his manners and appearance. His sti.*;urc was upwards of six feet, and his general aspect is described as good-looking. His head was small ; ho wore his hair, which was brown, tied behind ; his face was full of expression ; his nose exceedingly well shaped ; his eyes, which were small and of a brown colou);, were quick and piercing ; his eyebrows prominent, which gave his countenance altogether an nir of austerity. The attentive perusal of his oicn portion of the account of his momentous voyages, strongly urges us to write a eulogium on Cook ; but './e shall do better to substitute that written by Admiral Forbes, Commander of the Fleet, and inscribed on a pillar erected to his memory by his old and faithful friend, Sir Hugh Palliser, in his own grounds. TO THE ^lEMORY OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, TME ABLEST ANn MOST RENOWNED NAVIGATOR THIS OR ANV COUNTRY HATH PRODUCED. \ He raised himself, solely by his merit, from a very obscure birth, to the rank of Post-Captain in the royal navy, and was unfortunately killed by the savages of the island of Owhyhee, on the 14th of February, 1779 ; which island he had not long before discovered, when prosecuting his third voyage round the globe. He possessed, in an eminent degree, all the qualifications requisite for his profession and great undertakings ; together with the amiable and worthy qualities of the best men. Cool and deliberate in judging: sagacious in determining : active in executing: steady and persevering in enterprising, from vigilance and urn-emitting caution : unsubdued by labour, difficulties, and disappointments : fertile in expedients : never wanting presence of mind : always possessing himself, and the full use of a sound understanding. Mild, just, but exact in discipline, he was a father to his people, who were attached to him from affection, and obedient from confidence. hlFR OF ( APTAIN JAMES COOK. XIX His knowledge, his experience, his sagacity, rendered him so entirely master of his subject, that the greatest obstacles were surmounted, and the most dangerous navigations became easy, and almost safe, under his direction. He explored the Southern hemisphere to a much higher latitude than had ever been reached, and with fewer accidents than frequently befal those who navigate the coasts of this island. By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of his ship's comjiany, he discovered and introduced a system for the preservation of the health of seamen in long voyages, which has proved wonderfully efficacious : for in his second voyage round the world, which continued upwards of three years, he lost only one man by distemper, of one hundred and eighteen, of which his company consisted. The death of this eminent and valuable man was a loss to mankind in general ; and ^)articularly to be deplored by every nation that respects useful accomplish- ments, that honours science, and loves the benevolent and amiable affections of the heart. It is still more to be deplored by this country, which may justly boast of having produced a man hitherto unequalled for nautical talents ; and that sorrow is farther aggravated by the reflection, that his country was deprived of this ornament by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might have been dreaded, but from whom it was not deserved. For, actuated always by the most attentive care and tender compassion for the savages in general, this excellent man was ever assiduously endeavouring, by kind treatment, to dissipate their fears and court their friendship; overlooking their thefts and treacheries, and frequently interposing, at the hazard of his life, to protect them from the sudden resentment of his own injured people. The object of his last mission was to discover and ascertain the boundaries of Asia and America, and to pene.xate into the Northern Ocean by the North East Cape of Asia. Traveller ! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great master in his profession ; whose skill and labours have enlarged natural philosophy ; have extended nautical science ; and have disclosed the long-concealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty in the formation of this globe, and, at the same time, the arrogance of mortals, in presuming to account, by their speculations, for the laws by which he was pleased to create it. It is now discovered, beyond all doubt, that the same Great Being who created the universe by his ^at, by the same ordained our earth to keep a just poise, Avithout a corresponiling Southern continent — and it does so ! " He stretches out the North over the empty place, and hangeth the earth upon nothing." — Job, xxvi. 7. If the arduous but exact researches of this extraordinary man have not discovered a new world, they have discovered seas unnavigated and unknown before. They have made us acquainted with islands, people, and productions, of which we had no conception. And if he has not been so fortunate us Americus to give his name to a continent, his pretensions to such a distinction remain unrivalled ; and he will be XX LIFE OP CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. revered, while there remains a page of his own modest account of his voyages, and as long as mariners and geographers shall be instructed, by his new map of the Southern hemisphere, to trace the various courses and discoveries he has made. If public services merit public acknowledgments ; if the man who adorned and raised the fame of his country is deserving of honours, then Captain Cook deserves to have a monument raised to his memory, by a generous and grateful nation. Virtutis ubcrriiiium aliincutuni et lumos. V.\i.. Maximis, lib. ii. piip. 6. -» ■* ' m -*■ * # • -:«»i • -^jfc |> l"*^ o. < iAN »^^ ■ ■^„^:^:iA^»:>-^. , NEW HOLLAND f \i\ i\ -/ >j i: i^y D ji L D, illuMlr.itiny;; lh»' \1iya^l'8 «tl' CAPTAIN COOK. ■L i-- : r-T:j:i:..:.'.':-Ji-:"ZJr ^ ' i „.i ii 4 - r - _,ij^ --rv 'i -_i_'-: - -i- ■*' /.'•Hjfi'tmi*- til' F^ V -' ♦\. ■ ..I ;f ; ; Siditlwifli I N «• K A N ..T:;;v ht/ntitfif ■ ; N^ «.UM>1U.\„ 4,11-""" J lf-"-t^t^-*^ -v., f Oi, ...1. ^^-ii ^x C- ':.^ ): * y AT,. A NT. r- /4^^''? t- lo _ .A \ \ ^ & K' 4 <► «• »•; A N n , '^^ '' K \- A^ N ,, .AAV^->j<:r -' 1 f7^,„.,.^ ' '■^. / yy D ji L D, I / . j.'KiTiO;: C) K A IN COOK. N .1,1,1 IU774 ■ 4 1- 'iw r-^=r -T — ; - .1.. ^■"-Tm—rp— r^ lJ_|. r . l._ r r-r— :— T=p. . . _ .. | , , .. J*' / |-'.x|iliri.ilinii III' tlif Ti-.n-liN. h'iiwl I'lii/iifh' /////■,/ ,/" ft,' ,tii',;it,iti tM,vft,ii\i, hti 1h,' , //v.Mi'.f. 1 4- -L ///, "q:=T H.l.li.shul hi, ir.\,„„/, //.< H.;,, Sli:,,4. A % 'I * .;» *^* i •fl ^ ii INTRODUCTION. When the general peace of 17G3 left Britain at liberty to turn her undiviiled energies to those pursuits which had too long been interrupted by war, the extension of her commerce, and the improvement of her people, a strong desire was manifested to increase the extent of our geographical knowledge ; and by none was this o\)j(!ct more eagerly pursued than by the young King George III. Under his auspices an expedition under Commodore iiyron, and another under Captain Wallis and Captain Carteret, were fitted out. The more immediate connnission of each of these navigators was the discovery and examination of islands in the South Atlantic ocean ; but on their homeward voyage through the straits of Magelhaens or Magellan, and across the Pacific Ocean, out of the track of former voyagers, they made many discoveries which greatly stimulated curiosity at home, and gave additional strength to an opinion, then very generally entertained, that a southern continent must necessarily exist to counterbalance the weight of land in the north. In the latter part of the year 1767, while Wallis and Carteret were still at sea, it was resolved by the Royal Society, that it would bo proper to send persons into some part of the South Sea, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over the sun's disc, which, according to astronomical calculation, would happen in the year 17()D ; and that tho islands called Marquesas do Mendoza, or those of Rotterdam or Amsterdam, were the fittest places then known for making such observation. This resolution h:.ving been communicated to His Majesty, ho directed that a vessel should be fitted out for the purpose. The command was intrusted to Lieutenant Cook, who had recently been employed on surveys in Newfoundland, and had been pointed out as an officer especially qualified for tho service ; and ho was appointed by the Royal Society, in conjunction with Mr. Charles Green, a gentleman who had long been assistant to Dr. Bradley at the Royal Observatory at Greenwich, to observe the transit. Whilst the vessel was getting ready. Captain Wallis returned ; and upon his representation that the island he had recently discovered, and named King George's Island (now known as Otaheite or Tahiti), was the fittest place for the observation, the Royal Society made choice of it for the purpose. The vessel employed on this occasion was the Endeavour, a barque of 370 tons, built for tho coal trade. A vessel of this class was preferred by Cook to any other : the colliers are particularly distinguished as excL'llent sea-boats, and their build ( I\TUODUCTH)N, I r I n .1 allows more room, and pormits tlicm to tako tlio ground or to bo laid on shore with more ^afoty than any other vessels of equal size ; they also rc(^uire fewer men for their navigation. Her comi»lonient of officers and men was, Lieutenant Cook the commander, with two lieutenants unf^, I went on board on tlic 27tli, hoisted tlio pennant, and took charge of the ship, which then lay in the basin in 1 )eptford-yard. She was fitted for sea with all expedition ; and stores and provi- sions being taken on board, sailed down the river on the 30th of July, and on the l.'Uh of August anchored in Plymouth Sound, Wiiilo we lay here waiting for a wind, the articles of war and the act of parliament were read to the ship's company, who were paid two months' wages in advance, and told tiiut they wore to expect no additional pay for the performance of the voyage. On Friday, the 20th of August, the wind becoming fair, wc got under sail, and put to sea. On the 31st, we saw several of the birds which the sailors call JMother Carey's Cliickens, and which they suppose to be tlio forerunners of a storm ; and on the next day we had a very hard g.ilc, which brought us under our courses, washed over-board a small boat belonging to the boatswain, and drowned three or four dozen of our poultry, which wc regretted still more. On Friday, the 2d of September, wc saw land between Cape Finisterre and Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia, in Spain ; and on the 5th, by an observation of the sun and moon, we found the latitude of Capo Finisterre to be 42" 53 north, and its longitude 8" 40' west, our first meridian being always supposed to pass through Greenwich ; variation of the needle 21" 4' west. During this course, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had an opportunity of observing many marine animals, of which no naturalist has hitherto taken notice ; particularly a new species of the Oniscus, which was found adhering to the Medusa Pelagica ; and an animal of uii angular figure, about three inches long, and one thick, with a hollow passing quite through it, and a brown spot on one end, which they conjectured might be its stomach : four of these adhered together by their sides when they were taken, so that at first they were thought to be one animal ; but upon being put into a glass of water they soon separated, and swam about very briskly. These animals are of a new genus, to which ]Mr. Banks and Dr. Solan- der gave the name of Dat/i/sa., from the likeness of one species of them to a gem : several specimens of them were taken, adhering together sometimes to the length of a yard or more, and shining in the water with very beautiful colours. Another animal, of a new genus, they also discovered, which shone in the water with colours still more beautiful and vivid, and which indeed exceeded in variety and brightness anything that we had ever seen : the colour- ing and splendour of these animals were equal to those of au opal, and from their resemblance COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE IlOrND TirK M'OIILD. Sk.pt. i:r.o. to tliat Jjcm, tlio ppnus was ciillocl ('owers of mechanism, will find, that his having hitherto done without them will be a stronger iiiotivo for continuing to do without them still than any advantage, however manifest and considerable, for adopting the improvement. Wherever there is ignorance there is preju- dice ; and the common people of all nations are, with respect to improvements, like tlio parish poor of England with respect to a maintenance, for whom the law must not only make a provision, but compel them to accept it, or else they will be still found begging in the streets. It was, therefore, with great diflieulty that the people of ^ladeira were persuaded to engraft their vines ; and some of them still obstinately refuse to adopt the practice, though a whole vintage is very often spoiled by tlu; number of bad grapes which arc mixed in the vat, and which they will not throw out, because they increase tlie quantitv of the wine : an instance of the force of habit, which is the more extraordinary, as they have adoi)ted the practice of engrafting with resjieet to their ehesnut-trees, an object of much less importance, which, however, are thus brought to bear sooner than they would otherwise have done. AVe saw no wheel-carriages of any sort in the jdace, which, perhaps, is not more owing to the want of ingenuity to invent them than to the want of industry to mend the roads, wliieli at present it is imjiossible that any wheel-carriage should pass. The Inhabitants have horses and mules, indeed, excellently adapted to such ways ; but their wine is, notwithstandinir, brought to town from the vineyards where it is made in vessels of goat-skins, which are carried by men ujion their heads. The oidy imitation of a carriage amonsf these peo])Io is a board, made somewhat hollow in the middle, to one end of which a jiole is tied bv a strap of whit-leather. This wretched sledge approaches about as near to an English cart as an ludiau canoe to a ship's long-boat ; and even this would probably never have been tlioUL'ht I B ii f f COOKS FIIIST VOYAGE ROUND THE ^VOIlLD. 8kpt. 17'i8. of, if tlic En;{liMli had not introduced wiuc-vcssels, which arc too hi;,' to he carried hy hand, and which, tlicrcfore, are dragged ahout the town nj)on thcHo niacliiniH. Ono reason, ])erhaps, why art and inihistry have done so little for INfadeira, i.x, nature's liaving done ho much. The ^oil i*< very rich ; and there is sucii a difVennee of eliniute hetwien the ]>hiins and the hill:*, tliat there is scarcely a single olyeet of luxury that grows either in Eur()])e or the Indies that might not he produced here. When we went to visit Dr. llebcrden, who lives upon a considerahle ascent, ahout two miles from town, we left the thermometer at 74, and when we arrived at his house, we found it at (t(j. The hills pro- duce, almost spontaneously, w;ilnuts, chcsnnts, and apples in great abundance ; and in the town there are many plants which are the natives both of the East and West Indies, parti- cularly the banana, the guava, the i)ine-apple or anana, and the mango, which flourish almost without culture. The corn of this country is of a most excellent quality, large-grained and very fine, and the island would juoduce it in great jdenty ; yet most of what is consumed by the inhabitants is imi)orted. The mutton, jiork, and beef arc also very good ; the l>cef, in particular, which we took on l)oard here, was universally allowed to be scarcely inferior to our own ; the lean part w.is very like it, both in coloiu* and grain, though the beasts are much smaller ; hut the fat is as white as the fat of mutton. The town of Funchal derives its name from Finic/io, the Portuguese name for fennel, whicli grows in great ])lenty upon the neighbouring rocks ; and by the observation of Dr. Ileberden, lies in the latitude of ',\2" ',V,V M,'l \., and longitude U!" 4i)' W. It is situated in the bottom of a bay, and though larger than the, extent of the island seems to ueserve, is very ill built : the houses of the principal inhabitants are large, tliose of the connnon peoj)le are small ; the streets are narrow, and worse paved than any I ever saw. The churches are loaded with ornaments, among which are many i)ictures, and images of favourite saints ; but the pictures are in general wretchedly painted, and the saints are dressed in laced clothes. Some of the convents are in a better taste, especially that of the Franciscans, which is plain, simple, and neat in the highest degree. The infirmary in particular drew our attention as a model which might bo adojjted in other countries with great advantage. It consists of a long room, on one side of which are the windows, and an altar for the convenience of administering the sacrament to the sick : the other side is divided into wards, each of which is just big enough to contain a bed, and neatly lined with gally-tiles ; behind these wards, and parallel to the room in which they stand, there runs a long gallery, with which each ward communicates hy a door, so that the sick may be separately supplied with whatever they want without disturbing their neighbours. In this convent there is also a singidar curiosity of another kind ; a small chapel, the whole lining of which, both sides and ceiling, is composed of human sculls and thigh-bones ; the thigh-bones are laid across each other, and a scull is ])laced in each of the four angles. Among the sculls one is very remarkable ; the upper and the lower jaw, on one side, perfectly and finuly cohere : how the ossification which unites them was formed it is not, perhaps, very easy fo conceive ; but it is certain that the ])atient must have lived some time without opening hiy r.iouth : what nourishment he received was conveyed through a hole, which we discover*' I to liave been made on the other side, by forcing out some of the teeth, in doing which ihe jaw also seems to have been injured. We visited the good fathers of this convent on a Thursday evening, just before supper- time, and they received us with great politeness : " We will not ask you," said they, " to .eup with us, because we are not prepared ; but if you will come to-morrow, though it is a fast with us, we will have a turkey roasted for you." This invitation, which showed a libe- rality of sentiment not to have been expected in a convent of Portuguese friars at this i)Iace, gratified us much, though it was not in our power to accept it. Wc visited also a convent of nuns, dedicated to Santa Clam, and the ladies did us the honour to express a particular pleasure in seeing us there : they had heard that there were great philosophers among us, and not at all knowing what were the objects of philosophical knowledge, they asked us several questions that were absurd and extravagant in the highest degree. One was, when it would thunder ; and another, whether a spring of fresh water was to be found anywhere within the walls of their convent, of which it seems they were in great want. It will naturally be supposed that our answers to such questions were neither 8kpt. ITOl!. COOK'S FIKST V0Y.\<;E ROUND THE WOllLn. satisfiictory to tlio ladit-.i; nor, in their intimation, honoiiraMe to us; yet tlitir (lisa]iii<)iiit- intiit ilid not in flu; least IcMscn tliiir civility, ami t!iry talkud, witlioiit ceasing, ilnriny tlio wliolc of our visit, wliicli la>ste(l al)out lialf an litiur. Tlio liills of tliia country are very high ; the liighcMt, Pico Ruivo, rises ilOdM feet, near an Ku;;li«Ii mile, pirpendieularly from itd ba-«o, which is much higher than any laud that has been measured in Great liritain. The ft'ulcH of these hills are covercil with vines to a certain Iieight, ahovo which there are woods of che<*nut and pine of imnu'Usu extent; and almve them forests of wild timber of various kinds, nxt known in Kurope ; jiartieuiarly two, ealh d by the Portuguese Miniiiihino and I'dolitiio-o, the h aves of both which, particularly the Paiil>runco, are so beautiful, that these trees would be a great, ornament to the gardens of Kuro|)e. The nuujber of inhabitants in this island is supposed to be about }!(>,(>()(); and the custom- jiouse tbities produce a revenue to the king of i'ortugal of 2(),(((M>/. a year, clear of all expenses, which might easily be doubled by the product of the island, exclusive of the vines, if advantage was taken of the excelUnce <>f the climate and the amazing fertility of the soil ; but this object is utterly neglected by the Portuguese. In the trade of the inhabitants of ^Madeira with I^isbon the balance is against them, so that all the Portuguese money natu- rally going thither, the currency of the island is .Spanish : there are, indeed, a few Portugueso pieces of co])per, but they are si> scarce that we did not si-e one of them. The Spanish coin is of three denominations : pistcrecns, worth about a shilling ; bitts, worth about t^ixpence ; and half-bitts, threepence. The tides at this place flow at the full and change of the moon, north and south ; tho spring-tides rise seven feet perpendicular, and the neap-tides, four. By Dr. lleberden's observation, the variation of the compass here is now 1 .*i " 30' west, and decreasing; but I have some doubt whether he is not mistaken with resjRct to its decrease : wo found that the north point of the dii)i)ing-ncedle belonging to the Koyal Society dipped 77 I^ '• The refreshments to be had here are water, wine, fruit of several sorts, onions in plenty, and some sweetmeats; fresh meat and poultry are not to be had without leave from the governor, and the payment of a very hii;h price. We took in 27(Mb. of fresh beef, ?nd a live bullock, charged at ()131b., 3032 gallons of water, and ten tons of wine ; and in '-he night, between Sunday the 18th, and Monday the ]J)th of September, we set sail in prosecution of our voyage. When Funclial bore north, 13 cast, at the di:;tancc of 7l> miles, the variation appeared by several azimuths to be IG" 30' west. I CHAPTER II. THE PASSAGE FROM MADERIA TO RIO DE JANEIRO, WITH SOME ACCODNT OP THE COLNTUV, AND THE INCIDENTS TUAT UAPl'ENED THERE. On the 21st of September we saw the islands called the Salvages, to the north of the Canaries ; when the principal of these bore S. \ AV. at the distance of about five leagues, we found the variation of the compass by an azimuth to be 17' -jO. I make these islands to lie in latitude 30' 11' north, and distant 53 leagues from Funchal in Madeira, in tho direction of S. 1(5 E. On Friday the 23d wo saw the Peak of Teneriffe bearing AV. by S. ^ S. and found the variation of the compass to be from 17" 22' to 10' 30'. The height of this mountain, from which I took a new departure, has been determined by Dr. Ilcberdcn, who has been upon it, to bo ir»,31)6 feet, which is but 143 yards less than three miles, reckoning the mile at 17<)0 yards. Its appearance at sunset was very striking; when the sun wis below tho horizon, and the rest of the island appeared of a deep black, the mountain still reflected his rays, and glowed with a warmth of colour which no painting can express. There is no eruption of visible fire from it, but a heat issues from the chinks near tho top, too strong to be borne by the hand when it is held near them. We had received from Dr. Ilcberden, NKBBBI COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Oct. 17<)3. among other favours, some siilt which he collected on the top of the mountain, where it is found in largo quantities, and which he supposes to be the true «a/r»/// nr iiitnim of the ancients : ho gave us also some native sulphur exceedingly pure, which he had likewise found upon the surface in great jilrnty. H 'I'KNE.tiFFE — from tlic Sea. On the next day, Saturday the 24tli, we came into the north-cast trade wind, and on Friday the 30th saw Bona Vista, one of the CajJ do Verd islands ; we ranged the east side of it, at the distance of three or four miles from the shore, till we were obliged to haul oft" to avoid a ledge of rocks which stretch out S.W. by "W. from the bodj-, or S.E. point of the island, to the extent of a league and a half. Bona Vista, by our observation, lies in latitude 16 N. and longitude 21" C)\ west. On the 1st of October, in latitude 14" 6 N. and longitude 22" 10' W. wo found the vari- ation by a very good azimuth to be 10" 37' W. and the next morning it appeared to be 10'. This day we found the ship five miles a-head of the log, and the next day seven. On the third, hoisted out the boat to discover whether there was a current, and found one to the eastward, at the rate of throe quarters of a mile an hour. During our course from TencrilVe to Bona Vista we saw great numbers of flying fish, which from the cabin windows appear beautiful beyond imagination, their sides having the colour and brightness of buni'-hcd silver ; when they are seen from the deck they do not appr.>ar to so much advantage, because their backs are of a dark colour. "We also took a shark, which pi v. ed to bo the S(jiic:liis Cdrcharlas of Linr.a'us. Having lost tlu trade wind on the 3d, in latitude 12" 1-/ , and longitude 22" 10', the wind became somewhat variable, and we had light airs and calms by turns. On the 7th Jfr. Banks wont out in the boat and took wliat the seamen call a Portuguese man-of-war ; it is the Ilolut/iinid P/u/salls of Linntrus, and i species of the Molliixca. ^t consisted of a small bladder about seven inches long, very much resembling the air bladder of fishes, fi'om the bottom of which descended a number of strings, of a bright blue and red, some of t!>om three or four fett in h-ngth, wiiich, upon being touched, sting like a nettle, but with mvch uore force. On the top of the bladder is a membrane which is used as a sail, and turned so as to receive the wind woieli way soever it blows : this membrane is marked in fine ])ink-coloured vtins, and the animal is in every respect an object exquisitely curicius and bcuutiiul. We also took several of the shell-fishes, or testaceous animals, which .arc always found floating upon the water, particularly tlie Ileliv Janthlna and fiohtcca ; they are ab't-' the size of a snail, and arc supported upon the surface of the water by a small cluster of bubbles, which are filled with air, and consist of a tenacious slimy substance tliat will not easily part with its content^! ; the animal is oviparous, and these bubbles serve also as a uihis for its eggs. Jt is probable that it never goes dov.n to the bottom, nor willingly ajiproaches any shore; for tlic shell is exceedingly brittle, and that of few fresh-water snails is so thin : cvcrv shell Nov. 17}$', longiinde 22" 13', shifted to the N.N. W. a W., at the rate of one mile and a furlong an hour. Tlie variation here, by the mean of several azimuths, appeared to be 8" 30' W. On the 10th, M' . Banks shot the black-toed gull, not yet described according to Linnreus's system ; he gave it tli name of Larus crcphhttits : it is remarkable that the dung o" this bird is of a lively red, somcwliat like that of the liquor procured from the shells, only not sc full ; its principal food therefore is probably tb' //o )n board, had the appearance of metal violently heated, and emitted a white light ; witl» iliise animals were taken some very small crabs, of three different species, eacii of which gave as much light as a glow-worm, though the creature was not so large by nine tentlis : upon examination of these animals ^Ir. Banks had the satisfaction to find tliat they were all entirely new. On Wedncsilay, the 2d of November, about noon, being in the latitude of 10' 38' S., and longitude 32" 13' .3' W., we p.issed the line In which the needle at tbis time would have pointed due north and south, without any variation : for in the morning, having decreased gradually in its deviation for some days, it was no more than 18' W., nnd in the afternoon it was 34' east. On the (jth, being in la*^if".lo 19' 3' south, longitude 35" 50' west, tho colour of the water was observed to change, upon which we sounded, and found ground at the depth of 32 fathoms : the lead was cast three times wit'"ro//ios, on wliich Lord Anson struck soundings in his passage outwards : at four tlie n;.xt morning we had no ground with 100 fathom. As several articles of our stock and provisions now began to fall short, I determined to put into Kio de Janeiro, rather tlian at any i)ort in Brazil or Falkland's Islands, knowing that it could better supply us with what wc wanted, and making no doubt but that wo should be well received. On the 8tli, at day-break, we saw the coast of Brazil, and about ten o'clock w brought to, and s])ok(! with a fisliing-boat : tlie i)eo])le on board told us that t!ie land whit ii we saw lay to the southward of Santo Esi)irito, bu^ belonging to the captainship of that place. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on board this vessel, in which tiiey found eleven men, T'Tiii 10 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Nov. 1700. 1 ; i nine of whom were blacks : tlicy all Hslicd with lines ; and their fresh cargo, the chief part of which 3Ir. Banks bought, consisted of dolphins, largo pelagic sconibers of two kinds, sea- bream, and some of the tisli which, in the West Indies, arc called Welshmen. Mr. Banks had taken Spanish silver with him, which he inagined to be the cnrrency of the continent, but to his great surprise the pcojilc a'-ked him for Englisli shillings ; he gave them two, which he iiajipened to have about him, and it was not without some disput-; that they took the rest of the money in pistereens. Their business seemed to be to catch large fish at a good distance from the shore, which they salted in bulk, in a place made for that purpose in' the middle of their boat : of this merchandize they had about two quintals on board, which they offered for about 10 shillings, and would probably have sold for half the money. The fresh fish, which was bought for about nineteen shillings and sixpence, served the whole ship's company : the salt was not wanted. The sea-provision of these fishermen consisted of nothing more than a cask of water, and a bag of Cassada flour, which they called Farin/ia de Pao, or wooden flour ; which, indeed, is a name which very well suits its taste and appearance. Their water-cask was large, as wide as their boat, and exactly fitted a place that was made for it in the ballast ; it was impossible therefore to draw out any of its conients by a tap, the sides being, from the bottom to the top, wholly inaccessible ; neither could any be taken out by dipi)ing a vessel in at tlie head, for an opening sufficiently wide for that purpose wouhl have endangered the loss of great part of it by the rolling of the vessel : their expedient to get at their water, so situated, was curious ; when one of them wanted to drink, he ajiplied to his neighbour, whi- accompanied him to the water-cask With a hollow cane about three feet long, wliioh as open at both ends; this he thrust into the cask through a small hole in the to)), .1 then, stopping the upper end with the palm of his hand, drew it out ; the pressure of tho air against the other end keeping in the water whicli it contained ; to this end the person who wanted to drink applied his mouth, and the assistant then taking his hand from the other, and admitting tlie air above, the cane immediately parted with its contents, which the drinker drew off till he was satisfied. We stood off and on along the shore till the 12th, and succ ^ssively saw a remarkable hill near Santo Espirito, then Cape St. Thomas, and then an island just without Cape Trio, which in some maps is called the Island of Frio, and which being high, with a hollow in tho middle, has the appearance of two islands when seen at a distance. On this day we stood along the shore for Rio de Janeiro, and at nine the next morning mau*} sail for the harbour. I then sent Mr. Ilicks, my first lieutenant, before us in the pinnace, up to the city, to acquaint the governor that we put in there to procure water and refreshments, and to desire the assistance of a pilot to bring us into proper anchoring-ground. I continued to stand up the river, trusting to Mr. Bellish'tf draught, published in the Petit Atlas Maritime, vol. II. No. 54, which we found vory good, till five o clock in the evening, expecting the return of my lieutenant ; and just as I was about to anchor above the island of Cobras, which lies before the city, the pinnace came back without him,havingon board a Portuguese officer, but no pilot. Tlie people in the boat told me that my lieutenant was detained by tho viceroy iili 1 should go on shore. We came immediately to an anchor, and almost at tiie same time a ten-oared boat, lull of soldiers, come up and kept rowing round the ship, without ixclianging a word : in less tlian a quarter of an hour another boat came on board with several of the viceroy's othci , wiio asked whence we came, what was our cargo, the number of men and guns on board, the object of our voyage, and several other questions, which we directly and truly answered : they then told me, as a kind of apology for detaining my lieutenant, and putting m orticer on bo^rd my pinnance, that it was the invariable custom of tlie place, to detain the first officer who came on shore from any ship on licr arrival, till a boat from tho viceroy had visit<^ased ; but wished tliat every other person might remain on board till the jiapcr which they should draw up had been delivered to tlie viceroy, promis^iug that, immediately upon their return, tlie lieutenant should be sent on board. This promise was perfornud ; and on the next morning, the 11th, I went on fihore, and 'M )V. 1708. Nov. 17CC. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ilOUND THE WORLD. 11 liief part nd>>, sea- r. IJanks jntinent, icm two, liey took iish at a iirposo in' (1, which iy. Tho ho whole ater, and 1, indeed, large, as t ; it was from tho T a vessel gered tho water, so jour, who fhu'h as top, - lU'C of tho ,he person [ from the its, which ^kablo hill ape Frio, ow in tho we stood ! harbour. city, to to desire stand np '., vol. II. return of ies before no pilot. I should Itcn-oarcd a word : viceroy's i ofuns on knd truly d putting to detain Lo viceroy py there, pleased ; ■ey sliould |r return, horo, and -■■.*■> obtained It.. 'C of the viceroy to purchase provisions and refreshments for the ship, pro- vided I would employ one of tlieir own people as a factor, but not otherwise. 1 mailo some objections to this, but he insisted upon it as the custom of the ])laee. I objected also against tlie putting a soldier into the boat every time she wen^ between the shij) and tho shore; but he told me, that this was done by the express orders of his court, with which lie could in no case dispense. I then requested, that the gentlemen whom I had on board might reside on shore during our stay, and that ]\Ir. Banks might go up the country to gather plants; but this he absolutely refused. I judged from his extreme caution, and tho severity of tliese restrictions, that he suspected wo were come to trade ; I therefore took some pains to convince him of tho contrary. I told him, that we were bound to the south- ward, by the order of his Britannic iMajcsty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over the sun, an astronomical phenomenon of great importance to navigation. Of the transit of Venus, however, he could form no other conception, than that it was the passing of tho north star through the south pole ; for these are tho very words of bis interpreter, who was a Swede, and spoke English very well. I did not think it necessary to ask permission for the gentlemen to come on shore during the day, or that, when I was on sliore myself, I miglit be at liberty, taking for granted that nothing was intended to the contrary ; but in this I was unfortunately mistaken. As soon as I took leave of his excellency, I ftmnd an officer who had orders to attend me wlierever I went : of this I desired an explanation, and was cold that it wiis meant as a compliment. I earnestly desired to be exeuse(i from accepting such an honour, but the good viceroy would by no means sulFer it to bo dis- pensed with. With this officer, therefore, I returned on board about twelve o'clock, where I was impatiently expected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who made no doubt but tliat a fair .account of us having been given by the officers who had been on board the evening before, in their paper called a Pradica, and every scruple of the viceroy removed in mj 'jonference with his excellency, they should immediately bo at liberty +0 go on shore, and dispoi," of themselves as they pleased. Their disappointment at receiving my rei)ort may easily bo conceived ; and it was still increased by an account, that it had been resolved, not only to prevent their residing on shore, and going up tho country, but even their leaving the ship ; orders having been given that no person, except the captain, and such common sailors as were required to bo upon duty, should be permitted to land ; and that there was probably a particular view to the passengers in this prohibition, as they were reported to be gentle- men sent abroad to make observations and discoveries, and were uncommonly qualified for that purpose. In the evening, liowever, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander dressed themselves, and attempted to go on shore, in order to make a visit to the viceroy ; but they were stopped by the guard-boat which had come oflf with our pinnace, and which kept hovering round tlic ship all tho while she lay here, for that purpose ; the officer on board saying, that he had particular orders, which he could not disobey, to suffijr no passenger, nor any officer, except the caj^tain, to pass the boat. After much expostulation to no purpose, they wore obliged, with whatever reluct.anee and mortification, to return >.n board. I then went un shore myself, but found the viceroy inflexible ; he had one answer ready for everything I could say, that the restrictions under which he had laid us were in obedience to the King of Portugal's conmiands, and therefore indispensable. Ill I his situation I determined, rather than bo made a prisoner in my own boat, to go on shore no more; for the officer who, under pretence of ii comidiment, attended mo when I was ashore, insisted also upon going with me to and from the ship : but still imagining, that the scrupulous vigilance of the viceroy must proceed from some mistaken notion about ns, which might Uiorc easily be removed by writing than in conversation, I drew uj) a memorial, and Mr. Banks drew up another, which we sent on shore. These memorials were both answered, but by no means to our satisfaction ; we therefore replied : in con- sequence of which, several other papers were interchanged between us and tho viceroy, but still without effi'ct. However, as I thought some degree of force, on the ])art of tho viceroy, to enforce these restrictions, necessary to justify my acquiescence in them to tlio Admiralty, I gave orders to my lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, when I sent him with our last reply 12 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Nov. ]7(5»- :|i fi on Suinlay the 2(>tli, in the evening, not to suft'er a guard to bo put into liis boat. Wlien the officer on board the guard-boat found that JNIr. Ilicks was determined to obey my orders, he did not proceed to force, but attended him to the landing-place, and reported the matter to the viceroy. Upon this his excellency refused to receive the memorial, and ordered 3Ir. Ilicks to return to the ship ; when he came back to the boat, lie found tiiat a, guard had been put on board in his absence, but he absolutely refused to return till the soldier was removed : the officer then proceeded to enforce the viceroy's orders ; he seized all the boat's crew, and sent them under an armed force to prison, putting Mr. Ilicks, at' the same time, into one of their own boats, and sending him under a guard back to the ship. As soon as he had reported these particulars, I wrote again to the viceroy, demanding my boat and crew, and in my letter inclosed the memorial which he had refused to receive from Mr. Ilicks? : these pai)ers I sent by a petty officer, that I might wave the dispute about a guard, against which I had never objected cxce]>t when there was a commissionelos, I was ready to produce my commis--ion again. His excellency's scruples, however, still remained, and in his reply to my letter, he not only expressed them in still plainer terms, but accused my people of smuggling. This charge, I am confident, was without the least foundation in truth. Mr. Banks's servants had, indeed, found means to go on shore on the 22ud at daybreak, and stay till it was dark in the evening, but they brought on board only plants and insects, having been sent for no other purpose. And I had the greatest reason to believe that not a single articlt; was smui;gled by any of our people who were admitted on shore, though many artful means wore used to tempt them, even l)y the very officers that were under his excellency's roof, which made the charge still more injurious and provoking. I have, indeed, eouie reason to susj)ect that one poor fellow bought a m\g\{i bottle of rum with some of tlnj- IV. ]70«. Dec. 1700. COOK'S FIRST VOVAGE ROUND THE >rORLD. 13 AVheii bey my »rted tlio rial, ami 1(1 tliat a 1 till the lie seized licks, af ;;k to the nianding receive ! dispute nissioned lis guard, from the rum, tlie lie i)eople the wind, led to her d no boat id sent to they were 5, but the e us great lut just to ;ave them see all the ^iiifr filled J fallen in Banks's reason to nature of 1 be seen, the shore her crew iply both long-boat 23rd, the the boat, istance of icccssary ; ind other I my com- produce J his reply {people of In truth. |-cak, and insects, that not ,, though Inider his indeed, kie of tlur clothes upon his back ; and in my answer I requested of his excellency, that, if such an attempt at illicit trade shoiild be repeated, he would without scruple order the offender to be taken into custody. And thus ended our altercation, both by conference and writing, with the viceroy of Rio de Janeiro. A friar in the town having requested the assistance of our surgeon. Dr. Solander easily got admittance in that character on the 2r)th, and received many marks of civility from the people. On the 2()th, before daybreak, Mr. Banks also found means to elude tiie vigilance of le peoi)le in tlie guard-boat, aiul got on shore ; he did not, however, go into the town, for tlie principal objects of his curiosity were to be found in the fields : to him also the ))eoplo behaved with great civilit}', many of them invited him to their houses, and ho bought a porker and some other things of them for the slii])'s company; the porker, which was by no means lean, cost him eleven shillings, and he paid something less than two for a iMuscovy duck. Oil the 27th, when the boats returned from watering, the people told us there was a rejjort in town, that search was making after some persons who had been on shore from the sliip without the vic>'roy's j^ermission : these persons we conjectured to be Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks, and therefore they determined to go on sliore no more. On the 1st of Decembur, having got our water and other necessaries on board, I sent to the viceroy for a pilot to carry us to sea, who came off to ns ; but the wind preventing \\a from getting out, we took on board a plentiful supply of fresh beef, yams, and greens for the ship's company. On the 2nd, a Spanish packet arrived with letters from Buenos Ayrcs for Spain, commanded by Don Antonio de ]\Ionto Negro y Velasco, who with great polite- ness offered to take our letters to Europe : T accepted the favour, and gave him a packet for the secretary of the Admiralty, containing cojjies of all the papers that had passed between nic and the viceroy ; leaving also duplicates with the viceroy, to be by him forwarded to Lisbon. On Monday, the 5th, it being a dead calm, we weighed anchor and towed down the bay ; but, to our great astonishment, when we got abreast of Santa Cruz, the i)rincipal fortifica- tion, two shot were fired at us. We immediately cast anchor, and sent to the fort to inquire the reason of what had happened ; our people brought us word, that the commandant had received no order from the viceroy to let us pass, and that, without such an order, no vessel was ever suffered to go below the fort. It was now, therefore, become necessary that wc should send to tlie viceroy, to inquire why the necessary order had not been given, as he had notice of our departure, and had thought fit to write me a polite letter, wishing me a good voyage. Our messenger soon returned with an account, that the order had been written some days, but, by an imaccountable negligence, not .sent. We did not get under sail till the 7th ; and, when we had passed the fort, tlic pilot desired to be discharged. As soon as he was dismissed, wc were left by our guard-boat, which had hovered about us from the first hour of our being in this place to the last ; and Mr. Banks, having been prevented from going ashore at Itio de Janeiro, availed himself of her departure to examine the neighbouring islands, where, particularly on one in the mouth of the harbour, called Ra/,;i lie gathered many species of plants, and caught a variety of insects. It is rem.i.kable, that, during the last three or four days of our staying in this harbour, the air was loaded with butterflies : they were chiefly of one sort, but in such numbers that thousands were in view in every direction, and the greatest ])art of them above our mast-head. We lay here from the 14th of November to the 7th of December, something more than three weeks, during which time 31 r. j\Ionkiiouse, our surgeon, was on shore every day to buy our provisions ; Dr. Solander was on shore once ; I was several times on shore myself; and Sir. Banks also found means to get into the country, notwithstanding the watch that was set over us. I shall, therefore, with the intelligence obtained from these gentlemen, and my own observations, give some account of the town, and the country adjacent. Rio de Janeiro, or the river of Januarius, was probably so called from its having been discovered on the feast-day of that saint; and the town, which is the capital of the I'ortu- guesc dominions in America, derives its name from the river, which, indeed, is rather an arm of the sea, for it did not appear to receive any considerable stream of fresh water : it standa UiMM n 14 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD. Dec. 1708. on a plain, close to the shore, on the we.-it siJo of the bay, at the foot of several high mountains whicli rise behind it. It is neither ill designed nor ill built : the houses, in general, arc of stone, and two stories high ; every house having, after the manner of the Portuguese, a little balcony before its windows, and a lattice of wood before the balcony. I computed its circuit to be about three miles ; for it appears to be equal in size to the largest country towns in England, Bristol and Liverpool not excepted : the streets are straight, and of a convenient breadth, intersecting each other at right angles ; the greater part, however, lie in a line with the citadel called St. Sebastian, which stands on the top of a hill that commands the town. BAV OF HIO DE JANEIRO. If-I It in supplied with water from the neighbouring hills, by an aqueduct, which is raised upon two stories of arches, and is said in some places to be at a great height from the ground, from which the water is conveyed by pipes into a fountain in the great sf^juare that exactly fronts the viceroy's palace. At this fountain great numbers of people are continually waiting for their turn to draw water ; and the soldiers, who arc posted at the govenior'a door, find it very difficult to maintain any regularity among them. The water at this fountain, however, is so bad, that we, who liad been two months af: .sea, confined to that in our casks, which was almost always foul, could not drink it with pleasure. Water of a better quality is laid into some other part of the town, but I could not learn by what means. The churches are very fine, and there is more religious parade in this place than in any of the Popish countries in Europe : there is a procession of some parish every day, with variovis insignia, all splendid and costly in the highest degree : they beg money, and say prayers in great form, at the corner of every street. While we lay here, one of the churches was re-buildins ; and to defray the expense, the parish to which it belonged had leave to beg in procession through the whole city once a week, by whicli very considerable sums were collected. At this ceremony, which was performed by night, all the boys of a certain age were obliged to assist, the sons of gentle- men not being excused. Each of these boys was dressed in a black cassock, with a short red cloak hanging about as low as the waist, and carried in his hand a pole about six or seven feet long, at the end of which was tied a lantern : the number of lantcnis was generally J ( Dec. ITfin. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE M'ORLD. 10 above two liundrcJ, and the light they gave was so great, that the people who saw it from the cabin windows thought the town had been on fire. The inhabitants, however, may pay their devotions at the shrine of any saint in tlio calendar, without waiting till there is a procession ; for before almost every hoiisc there is a little cupboard, furnished with a glass window, in w'lieh one of these tutelary powers is waiting to be gracious ; and to pi'evcnt his being out of mind, by being out of sight, a lamp is kept constantly burning before the window of his tabernacle in the night. The people, indeed, are by no means remiss in their devotions, for before these saints they pray and sing hymns with such vehemence, that in the night they were very distinctly heard on board the ship, though she Iny at the distance of at least half a mile from the town. The government here, as to its form, is mixed ; it is notwithstanding very despotic in fact. It consists of the viceroy, the governor of the town, and a council, the number of which I could not learn : witlumt the consent of this council, in which the viceroy has a casting vote, no judicial act should bo performed ; yet both the viceroy and governor frequently commit persons to prison at their own pleasure, and sometimes send them to Lisbon, without acquainting their friends or family with what is laid to their charge, or where they may be found. To restrain the people from travelling into the country, and getting into any district where gold or diamonds may be found, of both which there is much more than the government can otherwise secure, certain bounds are prescribed them, at the discretion of the viceroy, sometimes at a few, and sometimes at many miles' distance from the city, On the verge of these limits a guard constantly patroles, and whoever is found beyond it is immediately seized and thrown into jirison ; and if a man is, upon any pretence, taken up by the guard without the limits, he will be sent to prison, though it should appear that he did not know their extent. Tlic inhabitants, who are very numerous, consist of Portuguese, negroes, and Indians, the original natives of the country. The township of Rio, which, as I was told, is but a small part of the Capitanea, or province, is said to contain 37,000 white persons, and G29,(MI0 blacks, many of whom are free ; making together ()66,000, in the proportion of seventeen to one. The Indians, who are employed to do the king's work in this neighbourhood, can scarcely be considered as inhabitants ; their residence is at a distance, from whence they come by turns to their task, which they are obliged to perform for a small pay. The guard- boat was constantly rowed by these people, who are of a light copper colour, and have long- black hair. The military establishment here consists of twelve regiments of regular troops, six of which arc Portuguese and six Creoles; and twelve other regiments of provincial militia. To the regulars the inhabitants behave with the utmost humility and submission ; and I was told, that if any of them should neglect to take oflF his hat upon meeting an officer, he would immediately be knocked down. These haughty severities render the people extremely civil to any stranger who has the appearance of a gentleman. But the subordination of the officers themselves to the viceroy is enforced with circumstances equally mortifying, for they are obliged to attend in his hall three times every day to ask his commands ; the answer constantly is, " There is nothing new." I have been told, that this servile attendance is exacted to prevent their going into the country; and if so, it eflfectually answers tlio purpose. It is, I believe, universally allowed, that the women, both of the Spanish and Portuguese settlements in South America, make less difficulty of granting personal favours than those of any otiicr civilized country in the world. Of the ladies of this town some have formed so unfavourable an opinion as to declare, that they did not believe there was a modest one among them. This censure is certainly too general ; but what Dr. Solandcr saw of them when he was on shore, gave him no very exalted idea of their chastity : he told me, that as soon as it was dark, one or more of them appeared in every window, and distinguished those whom they liked, among the gentlemen that walked past them, by giving them nosegays ; that he, and two gentlemen who were with him, received so many of these favours, that, at the end of their walk, which was not a long one, they threw whole hatfuls of them away. ( iiSi-iiassisi^Ssdafei ^^^ -■<; iri m *r 10 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Dkc. I7fi0. ! I I Orcat allowance must certainly bo iiiado for local customs; that which in one conntry would be an indecent familiarity, is a mere act of general courtesy in another ; of the fact, therefore, which I have related, I shall say not!iing, but that I am confident it is true. Neither will I take u]>on mc to affirm, tliat murders are frequently committed here ; but the clinrclics afford an asylum to the criminal : and as our cockswain was one; day lookin" at two men, who appeared to be talking together in a friendly manner, one of them suddeidy drew a knife, and stabbed the other ; who not instantly falling, the murderer withdrew tlio •weapon, and stabbed him r second time. He then ran away, and was pursued by sonio negroes who were also witnesses of the fact ; but whether ho escaped or was taken I never heard. The country, at a small distance round the town, which is all that any of us saw, is beautiful in the highest degree ; the wildest spots being varied with a greater lu.xurianee of flowers, both as to number and beauty, than the best gardens in England. Upon the trccc and bushes sat an almost endless variety of birds, especially small ones, many of them covered with the most elegant plumage ; among which were the humming- bird. Of insects, too, there was a great variety, and some of them very beautiful ; but they were much more nimble than those of Europe, especially the butterflies, most of which flew near the to])s of the trees, and were, therefore, very difficult to be caught, except when the sea-breeze blew fresh, which kept them nearer to the ground. The banks of the sea, and of the small brooks which water this part of the country, arc almost covered with the small crabs called Cancer vocans; some of these had one of the claws, called by naturalists the hand, verylarge ; others had them both remarkably small, and of equal size : a diffi.'rence which is said to distinguish the sexes, that with the large claw being the male. There is the appearance of but little cultivation ; the greater part of the land is wholly uncultivated, and very little care and labour seem to have been bestowed upon the rest ; tl' :c are, indeed, little patches or gardens, in which many kinds of European garden-stuff are produced, particularly cabbages, peas, beans, kidney-beans, turnips, and white radishes, but all much inferior to our own : water-melons and pine-apples arc also produced in these spots, and they are the only fruits that we saw cultivated, though the country produces musk melons, oranges, limes, lemons, sweet lemons, citrons, plantains, bananas, mangos, mamane apples, acajou or cashou apples and nuts ; jamboira of two kinds, one of which bears a small black fruit ; cocoa-nuts, mangos, palm-nuts of two kinds, one long, the other round ; and palm-berries ; all which were in season while we were there. Of these fruits the water-melons and oranges are the best in their kind ; the pine apples are much inferior to those that I have eaten in England ; they are indeed more juicy and sweet, but have no flavour : I believe them to be natives of this country, though we heard of none that at this time grow wild ; they have, however, very little care bestowed upon them, the plants being set between beds of any kind of garden-stufl', and suffl'red to take the chance of the season. The melons are still worse — at least those that we tasted, which were mealy and insipid ; but the water-melons are excellent ; tiiey have a flavour — at least a degree of acidity — which ours have not. Wo saw also several species of the prickle-pear, and some European fruits, particularly the apple and peach, botii which were very mealy and insipid. In these gardens also grow yams and mandihoca, which in the AVcst Indies is called Cassada or Cassava, and to the flower of which the people here, as I have before observed, give the name of Farinha de Pao, which may not improperly be translated, " Powder of Post." The soil, though it produces tobacco and sugar, will not produce bread-corn ; so that the people here have no wheat-flour but what is brought from Portugal, and sold at the rate of a shilling a pound, though it is generally spoiled by bc>ing heated in its passage. JMr. Banks is of opinion that all the products of our West Indian islands would grow here ; notwithstanding which, the inhabitants import their coffl-e and chocolate from Lisbon. Most of the land, as far as we saw of the country, is laid down in grass, upon which cattle are pastured in great plenty ; but they are so lean, that an Englishman will scarcely cat of their flesh : the herbage of these pastures consists principally of cresses, and couse- l\^i Dec. 17C8. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 17 •I qucntly is so short, that thongli it may afford a bite for horses and slicop, it can scarcely bo grazed by horned cattle in a sufficient quantity to keep tlicni alive. This country may possibly produce many valuable drugs ; but wo could not find any in the apothecaries' shojis, except pareira brava and balsam capivi ; both of which were excellent in their kind, and sold at .» very low jirice. The drug trade is probably carried on to the northward, as well as that of tlic dyeing woods, for we could get no intelligence of cither of tliem iiere. As to manufactures, wo neither saw nor heard of any except that of cotton hammocks, in which people are carried about here, ns they are with us in sedan chairs ; and these aro principally? if not wholly, fabricated by the Indians. The riches of the place consist eliiefly in the mines, which we supposed to lie far up the country, though we could never learn where, or at what distance ; for the situation is concealed as much as possible, and troops are continually employed in guarding the roads that lead to them : it is almost impossible for any man to get a sight of them, except those who are employed there ; and indeed the strongest curiosity woidd scarcely induce any man to .attempt it, for whoever is found upon the road to them, if he cannot give undeniable evidence of his having business there, is immediately hanged up upon the next tree. Much gold is certainly brought from these mines, but at an expense of life that must strike every man, to wl'.om custom has not made it familiar, with horror. No less than forty thousand negroes arc annually imported on the king's account, to dig the mines ; and we were credibly inf';rmcd that the last year but one before we arrived here, this number fell so short, probably from some epidemic disease, that twenty thousand more were draughted from the town of Rio. Precious stones are also found here in such plenty, that a certain quantity only is allowed to be collected in a year ; to collect this quantity, a number of people aro sent into the country where they .are found, and when it is got together, which sometimes happens in a month, sometimes in less, and sometimes in more, they return ; and after that, whoever is found in these precious districts, on any pretence, before the next year, is immediately put to death. The jewels found here are diamonds, topazes of several kinds, and amethysts. We did not see any of the diamonds, but were informed that the viceroy h.ad a large quantity by him, which he would sell on the king of Portugal's account, but not .at a less price than they are sold for in Europe. ]Mr. Banks bought a few topazes and amethysts as specimens : of the topazes there arc three sorts, of very different v.alue, which are distinguished here by the names of Pinga d'agua qualidado primeiro, Pinga d'agua qualidade secundo, and Chryst.allos armerillos : they are sold, large and small, good and bad Lo 'ether, by octavos, or the eighth part of an ounce ; the best at 4s. 9d. All dealing, however, in these stones is prohibited to the suDJect under the severest penalties : there were jewellers here formerly, who pur- chased and worked them on their own account ; but about fourteen months before our .arrival, orders came from the court of Portugjil tlitit no more stones should be wrought here, except on the king's .account : the jewellers were ordered to bring all their tools to the viceroy, and left without any means of subsistence. The persons employed here to work stones for the king are shaves. The coin that is current here is either that of Portugal, consisting chiefly of thirty-six shillings pieces, or pieces botli of gold and silver, which are struck at this place : the pieces of silver which are very much debased, are called petacks, and are of different value, and easily distinguished by the number of rees that is maiivcd on the outside. Here is also a copper coin, like that in Portugal, of five and ten rce pieces. A ree is a nomin.al coin of Portugal, ten of which are equ.al in value to about three farthings sterling. The harbour of llio de Janeiro is situated W. by N. 18 leagues from Cape Frio, and may bo known by a remarkable hill, in the form of a sugar-lo.af, at the west point of the bay ; but as all the coast is vory high, and rises in many peaks, the entrance of this harbour ni.ay be more certainly distinguished by the islands th.at lie before it ; one of which, called Rodonda, is high and round, like a h.ay stack, and lies at the distance of two leagues and a half from the entrance of the bay, in the direction of S. by ^V. ; but the first islands which c f - t i ir ! : r I li 18 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Dec. ITOn. arc met witli, coiiiinf; from the cast, or Capo Frio, arc two tliat have a rocky appearance, lying near to each other, and at the distance of about four niiK>H from the shore : tlierc arc also at the distance of tliree k-agues to the westward of these two otlier islands, which lio near to each other, a little withoiit the bay on the east side, and very near the shore. This harbour is certainly a i^ood one ; the entrance, indeed, is not wide, but the sea-breeze, which blows every day from ten or twelve o'clock till sunset, makes it easy for any ship to go ia before! the wind ; and it grows wider as the town is approached, so that abreast of it there is room for the largest fleet, in five or si.x fathom water, with an oozy bottom. At the narrow part, the entrance is defended by two forts. The princijial is Santa Cruz, which stands on the east point of the bay, and has been mentioned before ; that on the west side is called fort Lozia, and is built ujion a rock that lies close to the main ; the distance between them is about three quarters of a mile, but the channel is not quite so broad, because there are sunken rocks which lio otV each fort, and in this part alone there is danger : tho narrov/ncss of the channel causes the tides, both flood and ebb, to run with considerable strenjjth, so that tliev cannot be stenuncd without a fresh breeze. The rockiness of tho bottom makes it also unsafe to anchor here ; but all danger may be avoided by keeping in the middle of the ch.-vnnel. Within the entrance tho course up the bay is first N. by W, lialf AV. and N.N.W., something niore than a league ; this will bring the vessel the length of the great road; and N.W. and AV.X.W. one league more will carry her to the Isle dos Cobras, which lies before the city : she should then keep tho north side of this island close on board, and anchor above it, before a monastery of Benedictines, which stands upon a hill at the N.W. end of the city. The river, and indeed tho whole coast, abounds with a greater variety of fish than we h.id ever seen ; a day seldom r jsed in which one or more of a new species were not brought to Mr. Banks : the bay p m is as well ada]ited for catching these fish as can be conceived ; for it is full of small islands, between which there is shallow water, and proper beaches for drawing the seine. Tho sea, without the bay, abounds with dolphins, and large mackarel of difl'erent kinds, which readily bite at a hook, and tho inhabitants always tow one after their boats for that purpose. Though the climate is hot, the situation of thib place is certainly wholesome : while we stayed here the thermometer never rose higher than 83 degrees. Wo had frequent rains, and once a very hard gale of wind. Ships water here at the fountain in the great square, though, as I have observed, the water is not good : they land their casks upon a smooth, sandy beach, which is not more than a hundred yards distant from the fountain ; and upon application to the viceroy, a sentinel will bo appointed to look after them, and clear the way to tho fountain where they are to be filled. Upon the whole, Rio do Janeiro is a very good place for ships to put in at that want refreshment: tho harbour is safe and commodious; and pro\isions, except wheaten bread and flour, may be easily procured : as a succedancum for bread, there arc yams and cassada in plenty ; beef, both fresh and jerked, may bo bought at about two-pence farthing a pound; though, as I have before remarked, it is very lean. The people here jerk their beef by taking out the bones, cutting it into largo but thin slices, then curing it with salt, and drying it in the shade : it cats very well, and, if kept dry, will rcmt.in good a long time at sea. JMntton is scarcely to bo procured, and hogs and poultry a- o dear : of garden-stuff and fruit-trees there is abundance — of which, however, none can )e preserved at sea but t!i0 pumpkin; rum, sugar, and molasses, all excellent in their i.ind, may be had at a reason.able price ; tobacco also is cheap, but it is not good. Here is a yard for building shipping, and a small hulk to heave down by ; for as the tide never rises above six or seven feet, there is no other way of coming at a ship's bottom. When the boat which had been sent on shore returned, wc hoisted her on board, and stood out to sea. ft Mil ^lii ► EC. 1700. Jas. iron. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGK ROUND THE WORLD. 10 ipcarancc, tlii'i-c aro which lio 10. Thia I'zo, wliah » to <;o in of it thtrc . At the •iiz, which west sitlo c tlistanco id, because .nccr : the )nsiilcrahlo less of the keeping in N. by W. the length IP Isle (lo9 aland close upon a hill !ian we had ot brought ceived ; for beaches for 3 mackarel f one after while we ucnt rains, [served, the not more viceroy, a where they I that want iten bread Ind cassada a pound ; [ir beef by li salt, and Ins time at irden-stuflf lat sea but had at a )r building ix or seven Iboard, and rnAPTFR III. — THE p.xssAfiF, pnoM mo np. .lANKino to tiik f.ntranmf. op tiif, strait of ij; MAiuK, WITH A in:s( lui'TioN or so.Mi: op tiik lniiahitants 01" Ti:unA i)i;l rrroo. O.v tlio Otii of Doceinber wo observed the sea to bo covered witli broad streaks of a yellowish colour, several of them a niil<> long, and three or four liuiulred yards wide ; some of the water thus coloured was taken nj), and found to be full of iiuiumerable atoms jiointed at tlio end, of a yellowish colour, and none more than a quarter of a line, or the fortieth i)art of an inch long ; in the microscope they ap|ieaied to be faiicirii/l of small fibres interwoven with each other, not unlike the nidus of some of the P/ij/i/aiicas called Cadilices ; but whether tliey were animal or vegotablo substances, whcnco they came, or for what they were designed, ncitlier 3Ir. Danks nor Dr. Solander could guess. Tiie same appearance had been observed before, when wc first discovered the continent of South America. On the 11th we hooked a shark, and while we were playing it under the cabin window it threw out and drew in again, several times, what appeared to be its stomach ; it jiroved to bo a female, and upon being opened six young ones wore taken out of it ; five of them were alive and swam briskly in a tub of water, but the sixth appeared to have been dead some time. Nothing remarkable happened till the 30tli, except that wo prepared for the bad weather which wc were shortly to expect, by bending a now suit of sails ; but on this day wo ran a course of one hundred and sixty miles by the log, through innumerable land insects of various kinds, some upon the wing and more upon the water, many of which were alive ; they appeared to be exactly the same with the Carafjl, the Grylli, the Phalancc, Aranca, and other flies that are seen in England, though at this time we could not be less than thirty leagues from land ; and some of those insects, particularly the Gri/lli Araiiea, never volun- tarily leave it at a greater distance than twenty yards. AVo judged ourselves to be now nearly opposite to /? minutes of a degree on tho equator : probably there is a small current setting to the westward, which may bo caused by the westerly current coming round Cape Horn, and through the strait of Le Maire, and the indraught of the strait of Magellan*. * The celebrated navigator who discovered this strait was a native of Portupral, and his name, in the langu.igo of Ills country, was Fernando dc Magalhacns ; tlio Spaniards call liim Hernando Magalhanes, and tho Frencli Magellan, which is tho orthngrapliy tliat has been generally adopted : a gentleman, the fifth in descent from tliis great adventurer, is now living in ornear London, and communicated the true name of liis ancestor to Mr. nanks, with a request that it might be inserted in tliis work. c2 I 1 so COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD. .Us. 1700. Ilavinjt continuoil ti) ran-'o the coast, on the 1 1th wo entered the Htrait of T,e Mairc ; but the title turniiif^ iitjainst iii ilrove ii3 out with great violence, and raised sneh n sea off C a|>o iSt. Dienro that the waves liad exactly the wanio ap])earance aH they would have had if they had hroke over a ledj,'e of rocks ; and when the ship was in tliis torrent she frequently pitched BO that the bowsprit was nuthr water. About noon wo got un of tlio l.ny, l)iit HLiing our minilMT, wliich was tin or twdvc, tlicy rctri-uttd. Mr. liiinkH and Dr. Solandur tlicii advanced alxmt one Inintlred yards beforo us, ujjon wliich two of tlio Indians returned, and, having ailvanced some jiaees towards them, sat down : as soon as they came up the Indians rose, and each of them having a small stick in his hand threw it aw.ny, in ii direction both from themselves and the strangers, whieli was considered as the renun- ciation of weapons in token of peace : they then w'alked briskly towards their companions, who had halted at about fifty yards behind them, and beckoned the gentlemen to follow, which they did. Thoy were received with many uncouth signs of friendship ; and, in return, they distributed among them some beads and ribbons, which had been brought on shore for that purpose, and with which they were greatly delighted. A mutual confidence and good-will being thus produced, our parties joined : the c(mversation, such as it was, became general ; and three of them accompanied us back to the ship. Wlien they came on board, one of them, whom wo took to be a priest, iH-rformed much the same ceremonies which M. Bougainville describes, and supposes to be an exorcism. When lie was introduced into a new part of the ship, or when any thing that he liad not seen before caught his attention, ho shouted with all his force for some minutes, without directing his voice either x-> us or his companions. They ato some bread and some beef, but not apparently with much pleasure, though such part of what was given them as they did not cat they took away with them ; but they would not swallow a drop either of wine or spirits : they put the glass to their lips, but, having tasted the liquor, they returned it, witli strong expressions of disgust. Curiosity seems to be one of the few passions which distinguisii men from brutes ; and of this our guests appeared to have very little. Tlicy went from one part of the ship to another, and looked at the vast variety of new objects that every moment presented themselves, without any expression either of wonder or i>leasure ; for the vociferation of our exorcist seemed to be neither. After having been on board about two hours, they expressed a desire to go ashore. A boat was immediately ordered, and Mr. Banks thought fit to accompany them : ho landed them in safety, and conducted them to their companions, among whom he remarked the same vacant indifference, as in those who had been on board ; for as on one side there appeared no eagerness to relate, so on the other there seemed to be no curiosity to hear, how they had been received, or what they had seen. In about half an hour, Mr. Banks returned to the ship, and the Indians retired from the shore. IIRAD or FUFORAN. CIIAI'TKU IV. — AN ACCOUNT OF WHAT HAPPENED IN ASCENUINO A MOUNTAIN TO SEAItCIl Foil PLANTS. On the Kith, early in the morning, 3Ir. Banks and Dr. Solander, with their attendants and servants, and two seamen to assist in carrying the baggage, accompanied by Mr. Alonk- housc the surgeon, and Mr. Green the astronomer, set out from the ship, with a view to penetrate as far as they could into the country, and return at night. The hills, when viewed at a distance, seemed to be partly a wood, partly a plain, and above them a bare rock. Mr. Banks hoped to get through the wood, and made no doubt but that, beyond it, he ishould, in a country which no botanist had ever yet visited, find alpine plants which UMtn I l, i I- J Ml III , : I ■i ' til t-, (■ COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Jan. 1709. would abundantly compensate his labour. Tliey entered the wood at a small sandy beach, a little to the westward of the watering-place, and continued to ascend the hill, through the patliless wilderness, till three o'clock, before tliey got a near view of the places which they intended to visit. Soon after they reached what they had taken for a plain ; but, to their great disappointment, found it a swamp, covered with low bushes of birch, about three feet hi'di, interwoven with each other, and so stubborn tl/at they could not be bent out of the way; it was therefore necessary to lift the leg ovcj them, which at every step was buried, ancit deci>, in the soil. To aggravate the pain and difficulty of such travelling, the weather, which l.ad hitherto been very line, much like one of our bright d.?ys in May, became gloomy and cold, with sudden blasts of a most piercing wind, accompanied with snow. They pushed forward, however, in good spirits, notwithstanding their fatigue, hoping the worst of the way was pr.;t, and that the bare rock which they had seen from the tops of the lower hills was not more than a mile before them ; but when they had got about two-thirds over this woody swamp, Mr. Buchan, orie of Mr. Banks's draughtsmen, was unhappily seized with a fit. This made it necessary for the whole company to halt, and as it was imposaible that he should go any farther, a fire was kindled, and those who were most fatigued were left behind to take care of him. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, ]Mr. Green, and Mr. Monk- house went on, and in a short time reached the summit. As botanists, their expectations were here abundantly gratified; for they found a great variety of plants, which, withrP0i)ect to the alpine plants in Europe, are exactly what those plants are with respect to ."".ch as grow in the plr in. The cold was now become more' severe, and the snow-blasts more frcqu-'it; the day also was so far spent, that it was found impossible to get back to the ship before the next morning : to pass the night upon such a mountain, in such a cliuiate, was not only com- fortless, but dreadful ; it was impossible, however, to be avoided, and they were to provide for it as well as they could. JMr. Banks and Dr. Solander, while they were improving an opportunity which they had with 30 much danger and difficulty procured, by gathering the plants which they found upon the mountain, oent Mr. Green and Mr. Monkhonse back to Mr. Buehan and the peoi)le that were with him, with directions to bring them to a liill, which they thought lay in a better route for returning to the wood, and which was therefore appointed as a general rendezvous. It was proposed, that from this hill they should push througl;. the swamp, which seemed by the new route not to bo more than half-a-mile ovtr, into f\\e shelter of tho wood, and there build their wigwam, and make a fire : this, as their way ^vas all down liill, it seemed easy to accomplish. Their whole company assembled at the rendezvous, and, though pinched with the cold, were in h .ilth and sjiirits, Sir. Buchan himself having recovered his strength in a much greater degree than could liave been expected. It was now near eight o'clock in the evening, but stiil good d.vyiight, and they set forward for the nearest valley, JNIr. Banks himself undertaking to bring 'ip the rear, and see that no strag- gler was left behind : this may, pcrliaps, be thought a superfluous caution, but it will soon appear to be otherwise. Dr. Solander, who had more than once crossed the mountains which divide Sweden from Xoi'vay, well know that extreme cold, iispecially when joined with fatigue, produces a torpor and sleepiness that are almost irresistible : he therefore conjured the company to keep moving, whatever pain it mig't cost them, and whatever relief they might be promised by an inclination to rest. Whoever sits down, says he, will sleep ; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more. Thus, at once admonished and alarmed, tiioy set forward ; but while they were still iqwn the naked rock, and before they had got among the bushes, the cold bucamo suddenly so intense, as to produce the cHeets that had been most dreaded. Dr. Solander himself Wtis the first wiio found the inclination, against which lie had warned others, irresistible; and insisted upon being suffered to lie down. Jlr. Banks entreated and remonstrated in vain : down he lay upon the ground, ;hough it was covered with snow ; and it was with great difficulty tliat his friend kept him from slee})ing. Rielimonil, also, one of the black servants, began to linger, having su.fered from the cold in the same manner as the (^ottor. Mr. Banks, therefore, sent five of the company, among whom was Mr. Buchan, forward to get a fire ready at the first convenient place m f t Tan. 17C9. idy bcacli, iroiigh the diich they it, to their three feet out of the ras buried, e weather, ne gloomy w. They the worst ' the lower ;hirds over pily seized imposyible gued were dr. jMonk- cpectations ith recjject to f'lch as le day also :e the next only com- to provide li they had they found |n and the nought lay fe a general ic swamp, liter of the down I'.ill, krous, and, elf having was now rd for the t no strag- , will soon mountains len joined therefore whatever 'S he, will alarmed, y had got that had , against down. Jan. irCP. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 23 "''i u io :liough it lini from ered from company, cut place they could find ; and himself, with four others, remained wich the doctor and Richmond, whcm, partly by persuasion and entreaty, and partly by force, they brought on ; but when they had got through the greatest pnrt of tlu birch and swamp, they both declared they corld go no farther. Mr. Banks had recourse again to entreaty and expostulation, but they produced no effect : wIk n Richmond was told, tliat if he did not go on he would in o, short time be frozen to death, ho answered, that he desired nothing but to lie down and die : the doctor did not so explicitly renounce his life ; he said he was willing to go on, but that he must first take some sleep, though ho had before told the company that to sleep was to perish. Mr. Banks and the rest found it impossible to carry them, and there being no remedy, they were both suffered to sit down, being jiartly sui)po.';tcd by the bushes, and in a few minutes they fell into a profound slee]> : soon after, some of the people who had been sent forward, returned, witii the welcome news that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile fartlier on the way. IMr. Banks then endeavoured to wake Dr. Solander, and happily succeeded : but, though he had not slept five minutes, he had almost lost tlie use of his limbs, and the muscles were l-o shrunk that his shois fell from his feet. lie consented to go forward with such assistance as could be given him, but no attempts to relievo poor Richmond were 3ucces: a bed of boughs from the trees, and spread a covering of the same kind over them, to a considerable height. Having now been exposed to the cold and tlie snow near an hour and a half, some of the rest began to lose their sensibility ; and one, Briscoe, another of Mr. Banks's servants, was so ill, that it was thought he must die before he could be got to the file. ': \ s 24 ii n COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, tlioy arrived ; .ind passed the night Jan. 1769. however, at length they arrived ; and passed the night in a situation, which, however dreadful in itself, was rendered more afflicting by the remembrance of what was past, and the uncertainty of what w^as to come. Of twelve, the number that set out togetlier in healtli and spirits, two w^ere supposed to be already dead ; a third was so ill, that it was very doubtful whether he would be able to go forward in the morning ; and a fourth, ^Ir. Buchan, was in danger of a return of liis fitf, by fresh fatigue, after so uncom- fortable a night : they were di:$tant from the sliip a long day's journey, through pathless woods, in which it was too probable they miglit be bewildered till they were overtaken by the next night ; and, not having ])repared for a journey of more than eight or ten hours, tlioy were wliolly destitute of provisions, except a vulture, which they happened to shoot while tliey were out, and whicli, if equally divided, would not afford each of them half a meal ; and they knew not how much more they might suffer from the cold, as the snow still CDutinucd to fall. A dreadful testimony of the severity of the climate, as it was now the midst of summer in this part of the world, the twenty-first of December being Iiere the longest day ; and everything might justly be dreaded from a phenomenon which, in the corresponding season, is unknown even in Norway and Lapland. Wlien the morning dawned, they saw nothing round them, as far as the eye could reach, but snow, which seemed to lie as thick upon tho trees as upon the ground ; and the blasts returned so frequently, and with such violence, that they found it impossible for them to set out : how long this might last they knew not, and they had but too much reason to appre- hend that it would confine them in that desolate forest till they perished with hunger and cold. After having suffered the misery -,ud terror of this situation till six o'clock in the morning, they conceived some hope of del vo'-ance by discovering tho place of the sun through t'.u clouds, which were become thinner, and began to brejik away. Their first care was to see whether the poor wretches whom they had been obliged to leave among the bushes were yet alive : three of the company were despatched for that purpose, and very soon afterwards returned with the melancholy news that they were dead. Notwithstanding the flattering appearance of the sky, the snow still continued to fall so thick that they could not venture out on their journey to the ship ; but about eight o'clock a small regular breeze sprung up, which, with the prevailing influence of the sun, at length cleared the air ; and they soon after, with great joy, saw the snow fall in large flakes from the trees, a certain sign of an apjiroaching thaw. They now examined more critically the state of their invalids : Briscoe was still very ill, but said that he thought himseit able to walk ; and Mr. Buchan was much better than either he or his friends had any reason to expect. They were now, however, jwessed by the calls of hunger, to which, after long fast- ing, every consideration of future good or evil immediately gives way. Before they set forward, therefore, it was unanimously agreed that they should eat their vulture : the bird was accordingly skinnetl, and it being thought best to divide it before it was fit to I " eaten, it was cut into ten portions, and every man cooked his own as he thought fit. After this repast, which furnished each of them with about three niouthfuls, they prepared to set out ; but it was ten o'clock before the snow was sufficiently gone off to render a march practicable. After a walk of about three hours, they were very agieeably surprised to find themselves upon the beach, and much nearer to the ship than they had any reason to expect. Upon reviewing their track from the vessel, they perceived that, instead of ascending the hill in a line, so as to penetrate into the country, they had made ahnost a circle round it. When they came on board, they congratulated each other upon their safety with a joy that no man can feel who has not been exposed to eipiul danger ; and as I had suffered great anxiety at their not returning in the evening of the day on which they set out, I was not wholly with- out my share. , I Jan. 1769. ion, wliicli, wliat was at set out was so ill, ing ; and a so unconi- ;h pathless crtakcn by ■ ten hours, ;d to shoot hem half a s the snow it was now ng here the lich, in the ould reach, 1 the blasts them to set n to appre- hunger and lock in the lun through care was to bushes were afterwards ad to fall so |ight o'clock at length akes from itically the ieif able to reason to long fast- they set the bird eaten. After this o set out ; (racticablo. lemsclves Upon 10 hill in a Wh«!n at no man anxiety at oily with- l 1 ■Km. J IN. i7oa, COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 20 '^ '^f CHAPTER V. 'TrJE PASSAGE TIIROUfill THE STRAIT OP IE MAIttE, AND A FURTnE!. PESCniP- TION OP THE lNnAmTANT.S OF TEUUA DEL FUEGO AND ITS PRODUCTIONS. On the 18th and lOtli, wo wcio delayed in getting on board our wood and water by a swell ; but on the 20th, the weather being more moderate, we again sent the boat on shore, and Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander wont in it. They landed in the bottom of the bay ; and while my people were employed in cutting brooms, they pursued tiieir great object, tho imjirovement of natural knowledge, with success, collecting many shells and plants which hitherto have been altogether unknown. They came on board to dinner, and afterwards went again on shore to visit an Indian town, which some of the people itad reported to lie about two miles uj) tho country. They found the distance not more than by the account, and they approached it by what appeared to be the common road ; yet tliey were above an hour in getting ttiithcr, for they were frequently up to their knees in mud. When they got within a small distance, two of tho people came out to meet them, with such state as they could assume. When they joined them, they began to halloo as they had done on board the ship, without addressing themselves fither to the strangers or their companions ; fUKOKAN VILLAGE. and having continued this strange vociferation for some time, they conducted them to the town. It was situated on a dry knoll, or small hill, covered with wood, none of wliich seemed to have been cleared away, and consisted of about twelve or fourteen hovels, of the most rudo and inartificial structure that can bo imagined. They were nothing more than a few poles set up so as to incline towards each other, and meet at the top, forming a kind of a cone, like .some of our bee-hives : on tho weather-side they were covered with a few boughs and a little grass, and on the lee-side about one-eighth of the circle was left open, both for a door * 26 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE \rORLD. Jan. 1760. wore huts that had hcen seen in St. Vincent's bay, in one of which the embers of a fire were still remaining. Fiirniture they had none ; a little grass, which lay round the inside of the hovel, served both for chairs and beds ; and of all the utensils which necessity and ingenuity have concurred to produce among other savago nations, they saw only a basket to carry in the hand, a satchel to hang at the back, and the bladder of some beast to hold water, which the natives drink through a hole that is made near the top for that purpose. The inhabitants of this town were a sm.all tribe, not more than fifty in number, of both sexes and of cvcry age. Their colour resembles that of the rust of iron uii.\( I with oil, and they have long black hair : the men are large, but clumsily built ; their stature is from five feet eight to five feet ten : the women are much less, few of them being more than five feet high. Their whole apparel consists of the skin of a guanoco *, or seal, which is thrown over their shoulders, exactly in the state in which it came from the animal's back ; a piece of the same skin, which is drawn over their feet, and gathered about the ancles like a purse, and a small flap, which is worn by the women as a succedaneum for a fig-leaf. The men wear their cloak open ; the women tie it about their waist with a thong ; but although they are coutciit to be naked, they are very ambitious to be fine. Their faces were painted in various forms ; the region of the eye was in general white, and the rest of the face adorned with horizontal streaks of red and black ; yet scarcely any two were exactly alike. This decora- tion seems to be more profuse and elaborate upon particular occasions; for the two gentle- men who introduced Mr. Banks and the doctor into the town, were almost covered with streaks of black in all directions, sb as to make a very striking appearance. Both men and women wore bracelets of such beads as they could make themselves of small shells or bones ; the women both upon their wrists and ancles, the men upon their wrists only ; but to com- pensate fur the want of bracelets on their legs, they wore a kind of fillet of brown worsted round their heads. They seemed to set a particular value upon anything that was red, and preferred beads even to a knife or a hatchet. Their language in general is guttural, and they express some of their words by a sound exactly like that which we make to clear the throat when anything happens to obstruct it ; yet they have words that would be deemed soft in the better languages of Europe. ]\rr. Banks learnt what he supposes to be their name for beads and water. When they wanted beads, instead of ribbons or other trifles, they said hallecii ; and when they were taken on shore from the ship, and by signs asked where water might bo found, they made the sign of drink- ing, and pointing as well to the casks as the watering-place, cried Oodd. We saw no ap[)earanee of their having any food but shell-fish ; for though seals were frequently seen near the shore, they seemed to have no implements for taking them. The shell-fish is collected by the women, whose business it seems to be to attend at low water, with basket in one hand, and a stick, pointed and barbed, in tiie other, and a satchel at their backs. Tiiey loosen the limpets and other fish that adhere to the rocks with the stick, and put them into the basket, which, when full, tliey empty into the satchei. Tiie only things that we found among tlioin, in which there was the least appearance of neatness or ingenuity, were their weapons, w Iiich c ;iisisted of a bow and arrows. The bow was not inelegantly made, and the arrows were tlic neatest tliat w'c had over seen : they were of wood, polished to the highest degree ; and tlie jioint, wliieli was of glass or flint, and barbed, was formed and fitted with wonderful dexterity. AVe saw also some pieces of glass and flint among them unwrouglit, besides rings, buttons, cloth, and canvass, with other European commodities ; they must, therefore, sometimes travel to the northward, for it is • " The gmnoco, by some natmalists, is considered as the Siiiiie animal witli tlic llama, but in its uild state, is tlie Sniiili Amcr can representative of the camel of the East. In sizi v may be compared to nn ass, mounted on taller legs, and with a very long neck. The j,'uanoco abounds over tlic whole of tlie tenipcrate parts of Sonili Amerie.i, from tlie wooded islands of Terra del I'lit;"!!, thtougli I'ata^'onia, the hilly paits of La I'lata, Chili, even to the Cordillera of Peru. Although prefer- ring an elevated i-itc, it yields in this respect to its near relative the vicuna. On the jilains of southern Patagonia we saw them in greater numlicrs than in any other part. Cniierally tlicy go in ■ ill lieids, from half-a-dozen to thirty togelhcr ; but on tlie banks of the St. Cri.z we saw one lierd wliicli must Irive contained at least live hundred. On llic nortliern shon if the Strait of Jlagellan tliev are also veiy mimerous." — Darwi't, in Surveyiny Voyaycs of the Adventure '.■£ men wear gh they are 1 in various lorncd with rhis decora- two gentle- jvored with th men and Is or bones ; but to com- wn worsted /as red, and by a sound obstruct it ; ]Mr. Banks ntcd beads, |en on shore n of drink- seals were lem. The low water, satchel at |h the stick, icarance of The bow peen : they flint, and ces of glass Iwith other rd, for it is pet to its near oi'ii Patagonia liy otiicr part, jilf-a-ilo7,cn to 1. Cn,7. wo saw Itivc linndi'i'd. i'lian tlu'v ai(> iini/ Voyages many years since any ship has been so far south as this part of Terra del Fucgo "Wo observed, also, that they showed no surprise at our fire-arms, with the use of which they appeared to be well acquainted ; for they made signs to Mr. Banks to shoot a seal which followed the boat, as they were going on shore from the ship. M. de Bougainville, who, in January, 17(58, just one year before us, had been on shore upon this coast in latitude 53° 40' 41", had, among other things given glass to the people whom he found here ; for he says, that a boy about twelve years old took it into his head to cat some of it. By this unhappy accident he died in great misery ; but the endeavours of the good father, the French ainnotiicr, were more successful tlian those of the surgeon; for tliough the surgeon could not save his life, the charitable priest found means to steal a Christian baptism upon him so secretly, that none of his pagan relations knew anything of the matter. These people might probably have some of the very glass which Bougainville left behind him, either from other natives, or perhaps from himself; for they appeared rather to be a travelling horde than to have any fixed habitation. Their houses are built to stand but for a short time. Tliey have no utensil or furniture but the basket and satchel, which have been mentioned before, and which have handles adapted to the carrying them about, in the hand and upon the back. The only clothing they had here was scarcely sufficient to prevent their perishing with cold in the summer of this country, much less in the extreme severity of winter. The shell-fish, which seems to be their only food, must soon be exhausted at any one place ; and we had seen houses upon what appeared to be a deserted station in St. Vincent's Bay. It is also probable that the place where we found them was only a temporary residence, from their having here nothing like a boat or canoe, of which it can scarcely be supposed that they were wholly destitute, especially as they were not sea- sick, or particularly affected, either in our boat or on board the ship. We conjectured that there might bo a strait or inlet, running from the sea through great part of this island, from the Strait of Magellan, whence these people might come, leaving their canoes where such inh't terminated. They did not appear to have among them any government or subordination : none was more respected than another ; yet they seemed to live together in the utmost harmony and good fellowship. Neither did we discover any appearanco of religion among them, except tlie noises which have been mentioned, and which we supposed to be a superstitious ceremony, merely because we could refer them to nothing else : they were used only by one of those who came on board the ship, and the two who conducted Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to the town, whom we therefore conjectured to be priests. Upon the wl;';le, these people appear to be the most destitute and forlorn, as well as the most stupid, of all human beings ; the outcasts of nature, who spent their lives in wandering about the dreary wastes, where two of our people perished with cold in the midst of summer ; with no dwelling but a wretched hovel of sticks and grass, which would not only admit the wind, but the snow and the rain ; almost naked ; and destitute of every convenience that is furnished by the rudest art, having no implement even to dress their food : yet they were content. They seemed to have no wish for anything more than they possessed, nor did anything that wo offered them appear acceptable but beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. Wliat bodily pain they might suffer from the severities of their winter we could not know ; but it is certain that they suffered nothing from tlic want of the innumerable articles which we consider not as the luxuries and conveniencies only but the necessaries of life : as their desires are few, they probably enjoy them all ; and how much they may be gainers by an exemption from the care, labour, and solicitude, which arise from a perpetual and unsuccessful effort to gratify that infinite variety of desires wliich the refinements of artificial life have produced among us, is not very easy to determine : possibly this may counterbalance all the real disadvantages of their situation in comparison with ours, and make the scales by which good and evil .are distributed to man hang even between us. In this place we saw no quadruped except seals, sea-lions, and dogs : of the dogs it is remarkable that tliey I)ark, wliich those that arc originally bred in America do not. And this is a further proof, that the people we saw here had, either immediately or remotely, communicated with the inhabitants of Europe. There are, however, other quadrupeds in i 1 !• I (1 ir 28 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Jan. 1769. this part of the country ; for when iMr. Banks was at the top of the highest hill that he ascended in his expedition through the woods, he saw the footsteps of a large beast imprinted U])on the surface of a bog, though he could not with any probability guess of what kind it might be. or land-birds there arc but few : IMr. Banks saw none larger than an English blackbird, except sonio hawks and a vulture ; but of water-fowl there is great plenty, particularly ducks. Of fish we saw scarce any, and with our hooks could catch none that was fit to eat ; but shell-fish, limpets, clams, and mussels, were to be found in abundance. Among {lie insects, which were not numerous, there was neither gnat nor musquito, nor any other species that was either hurtful or troublesome, which perhaps is more than can be sai«l of any other uncleared country. During the snow-blasts, which happened every day while we were hero, they hide themselves ; and the moment it is fair they appear again, as nimble and vigorous as the warmest weather could make them. Of plants, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander found a vast variety, the far greater part wholly different from any that have been hitherto described. Besides the birch and winter's bark, which liave been mentioned already, there is the beech, Fat/us anlarcticiu, which, as well as the birch, may be used for timber. The plants cannot be enumerated here ; but as the scurvy-grass, CarJaminc antlscorlutica, and the Avild celery, Aphim antarctlcum^ probably contain antiscorbutic qualities, which may be of great benefit to the crews of such ships as shall hereafter touch at this place, the following short description is inserted : — ^The scurvy- grass will be found in plenty in damp places, near springs of water, and, in general, in all places that lie near the beach, espdcially at the watering-place in the Bay of Good Success. When it is young, the state of its greatest perfection, it lies flat upon the ground, having many leaves of a bright green, standing in pairs opposite to each other, with a single one at the end, which generally makes tlic fifth upon a foot-stalk. The plant, passing from this state, shoots up in stalks that are sometimes two feet high, at the top of which are small white blossoms, and these are succeeded by long pods. The whole plant greatly resembles that which in England is called lady's smock, or cuckow-flowcr. The wild celery is very like the celery in our gardens ; the flowers are white, and stand in the same manner, in small tufts at the top of the branches, but the leaves arc of a deeper green. It grows in great abundance near the beach, and generally upon the soil that lies next above the spring tides. It may, indeed, easily be known by the taste, which is between that of celery and parsley. We used the celery in large quantities, particularly in our soup, which, thus medi- cated, produced the same good eflects which seamen generally derive from a vegetable diet, after having been long confined to salt provisions. On Sunday, the 22d of January, about two o'clock in the morning, having got our wood and water on board, we sailed out of the bay, and continued our course through the strait. FUEGEAN CANOE. Jan. 17C0. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 2a blackbird, particularly s fit to eat ; tVmong ilie any other said of any |r while we , as nimble part wholly nter's bark, I, as well as but as the », probably ich ships as rhe scurvy- neral, in all K)d Success. ind, having ingle one at ig from this :h arc small y resembles lery is very manner, in It grows in the spring celery and thus medi- [etable diet, t our wood the strait. CHAPTER Vr. — A GENERAIi DESCRIPTION OP THE S. E. PART OF TERRA DEL FUEOO, AND THE STRAIT OF LE MAIRE ; WITH SOME REMARKS ON LORD ANSON's ACCOUNT OF Til F,M, AND DIRKCTIONS FOR TUB PASSAGE WESTWARD, ROUND THIS PART OP AMERICA, INTO THE SOUTH SEAS. Alkiost all writers, who have mentioncc! the island of Terra del Fucgo, describe it as destitute of wood, and covered with snow. In the winter it may possibly be covered witli snow, and those who saw it at that season might, perhaps, be easily deceived by its appearance into an opinion that it was destitute of wood. Lord Anson was there in the beginning of March, which answers to our September, and we were there the beginning of Janu.ary, which answers to our July, which may account for the difference of his description of it from ours. We fell in with it about twenty-one leagues to tlie westward of the Strait of Le Mairc, and from the time that we first saw it, trees were plainly to be distinguished with our glasses ; and as wo came nearer, though here and there we discovered patches of snow, the sides of the hills and the sea-coast appeared to be covered with a beautiful verdure. The hills are lofty, but not mountainous, though the summits of them are quite naked. The soil in the valleys is rich, and of a considerable depth ; and at the foot of almost every hill there is a brook, the water of which has a reddish hue, like that which runs through our turf bogs in England ; but it is by no means ill tasted, and, upon the whole, proved to bo the best that we took in during our voyage. We ranged the coast to the Strait, and had soundings all the way from forty to twenty fathom upon a gravelly and sandy bottom. Tho most remarkable land on Terra del Fuego is a hill in the form of a sugar-loaf, which stands on the west side, not far from the sea ; and the three hills, called the Three Brothers, about nine miles to the westward of Cape St. Diego, the low point that forms tho north entrance of the Strait of Le Maire. It is said, in the account of Lord Anson's voj'age, that it is difficult to determine exactly where the strait lies, though tho appearance of Terra del Fuego bo well known, without knowing also appearance of Staten Land ; and that some navigators have been deceived by three hills o.. Staten Land, which have been mistaken for the Three Brothers on Terra del Fuego, and so overshot the strait. But no ship can possibly miss the strait that coasts Terra del Fuego within sight of land, for it will then of itself be sufficiently conspicuous ; and Staten Land, which forms the east side, will be still more manifestly distinguished, for there is no land on Terra del Fuego like it. The Strait of Le Maire can be missed only by standing too far to the eastward, without keeping the laud of Terra del Fuego in sight. If this is done, it may be missed, however accurately the appearance of the coast of Staten Land may have been exhibited ; and if this is not done, it cannot be missed, though tho appearance of that coast be not known. The entrance of the strait should not be attempted but with a fair wind and moderate weather, and upon the very beginning of the tide of flood, which happens here at the full and change of the moon, about one or two o'clock ; it is also best to keep as near to the Terra del Fuego shore as the winds will admit. By attending to these particulars, a ship may be got quite through the strait in one tide ; or, at least, to tho southward of Success Bay, into which it will be more prudent to put, if the wind should bo southerly, than to attempt the weathering of Staten Land with a lee wind and a current, which may endanger her being driven on that island. The Strait itself, which is bounded on the west by Terra del Fuego, and on the east by the west end of Staten Land, is about five leagues long, and as many broad. Tlio bay of Good Success lies about the middle of it, on the Terra del Fuego side, and is discovered immediately upon entering the Strait from the northward : and the south head of it may be distinguished by a mark on the land that has the appearance of a broad road leading up from the sea into the country : at the entrance it is half a league wide, and runs in westward about two miles and a half. Tliere is good anchorage in every part of it, in from ten to seven fathom, clear ground ; and it affords plenty of exceeding good wood and water. The tides flow in tho bay, at the full and change of the moon, about four or five o'clock, and rise about five or six feet perpendicular. But the flood runs two or three hours longer in Ml 30 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Jan. 17C0. tho Strait than in tho Bay ; and the ebb, or northerly current, runs with nearly double the strength of the flood. In the appearance of Statcn Land wo did not discover tho wildness and horror that is ascribed to it in the account of Lord Anson's voyage. On the north side are the appearances of bays or harbours ; and the land, when wo saw it, was neither destitute of wood nor verdure, nor covered with snow. The island seems to be about twelve leagues in length, and five broad. On the west side of the Cape of Good Success, which forms the S.W. entrance of the Strait, lies Valentine's Bay, of which we only saw the entrance ; from this bay the land trends away to the W.S.W. for twenty or thirty leagues ; it appears to be high and mountainous, and forms several bays and inlets. At the distance of fourteen leagues from the Bay of Good Success, in the direction of S.W. J W. and between two or three leagues from tho shore, lies New Island. It ia about two leagues in length from N. E. to S. W., and terminates to the N. E. ina remark- able hillock. At the distance of seven leagues from New Island, in the direction of S. W. lies the Isle Ecoiits; and a little to the W. of the south of this island lie Barnevelt's two small flat islands, close to each other ; they arc partly surrounded with rocks, which rise to different heights above the water, and lie twenty-four leagues from the Strait of Le JVIaire. At the distance of three leagues from Barnevelt's islands, in the direction of S. W. by S., lies the S. E. point of Hermit's islands : these islands lie S. E. and N. W., and are pretty high : from most points of view they will be taken for one island, or a part of Mie main. From the S. E. point of Hermit's islands to Capo Horn the course is S. W. by S., distance three leagues. The appearance of this Cape and Hermit's islands is represented in the chart of this coast, from our first making land to the Cape, which includes the Strait of Le Maire, and part of Staten Land. In this chart I have laid down no land, nor traced out any shore but what I saw myself, and thus far it may be depended upon : the bays and inlets, of which we saw only the openings, are not traced ; it can, however, scarcely be doubted, but that most, if not all of them, afford anchorage, wood, and water. The Dutch squadron, com- manded by Hermit, certainly put into some of them in the year 1024. And it was Chapenhiim, the vice-admiral of this squadron, who first discovered that the land uf Cape Horn consisted of a number of islands. The account, however, which those who sailed in Hermit's fleet have given of these parts is extremely defective ; and those of Schouton and Le Maire are still worse. It is therefore no wonder that *he charts hitherto published should be erroneous, not only in laying down the land, but ».. the latitude and longitude of the places they contain. I will, however, venture to assert, that the longitude of few parts of the world is better ascertained than that of the Strait of Le Maire and Cape Horn, in the chart now offered to the public, as it was laid down by several observations of the sun and moon, that were made both by myself find Mr. Green. The variation of the compass on this coast I found to be from 23" to 25" E., except near Barnevelt's islands and Cape Horn, where we found it less, and unsettled : probably it is disturbed here by the land, as Hermit's squadron, in this very place, found all their com- passes differ from each other. The declination of the dipping-needle, when set upon shore in Success Bay, was 68° 15' below the horizon. Between Strait Le Maire and Cape Horn we found a current setting, generally very strong, to the N. E., when we were in w^ith the shore ; but lost it when we were at the distance of fifteen or twenty leagues. On the 26th January, we took our departure from Cape Horn, which lies in latitude 55" 53' S., longitude 68" 13' W. The farthest southern latitude that wo made was 60" Ky, our longitude was then 74^ 30' W. ; and we found the variation of the compass, by the mean of eighteen azimuths to be 27" 9' E. As the weather was frequently calm, Mr. Banks went out in a small boat to shoot birds, among which were some albatrosses and sheer- waters. The albatrosses were observed to be iarger than those which had been taken northward of the Strait ; one of them measured ten feet two inches from the tip of one wing to that of the other, when they were extended : the sheerwater, on the contrary, 's less, and darker coloured on the back. The albatrosses we skinned, and having soaked them in salt-water till tlie morning, we parboiled them, then throwing away the liquor. Jan. l7Ca. Y double the rror tlmt is appearances )f wood nor 9 in length, ns the S.W. B ; from this ipcars to be he direction jland. It is ina remark- ion of S. W. •nevclt's two 3, which rise Strait of Lo ion of S. W. W., and are I part of Mio S. \V. by S., ;hart of this 3 Mairc, and ny shore but its, of which ted, but that ladron, com- lAnd it was ind of Capo 10 sailed in chouton and published ongitude of ew parts of orn, in the the sun and except near obably it is their coin- upon shore and Cape rerc in with in latitude made was ompass, by Mr. Banks and shcer- jecn taken tip of one contrary, "g ing soaked the liquor, Fun. 1709. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD. »1 -I stewed them in a very little fresh water till they wcrg tender, and had them served up with savoury sauce ; thus dressed, the dish was universally commended, and wo cat of it very heartily, even when there was fresh pork upon the ,*,able. From a variety of observations which were made with great care, it appeared probahlo in the higlicst degree, that, from the time of our leaving; tho land to the 13tli of February, when wo were in latitude 49" 32', and longitude 90" 37', wo had no current to the west. At this time we had advanced about 12" to the westward and 3.^' to the northward of the Strait of IVIagellan ; having been just three-and-thirty day^t in coming round the land of Terra del Fuego, or Cape Horn, from the east entrance of the iStrait to this situation. And tliough tho doubling of Capo Horn is so much dreaded, that, in the general opinion, it ia inore eligible to pass tlirough tho Strait of ]V[agellan, wo were not once brought under our close-ruefed topsails after we left the Strait of Lc Mairc. The Dolphin, in her last voyage, which she performed at the same season of the year with ours, was three months in getting through the Strait of Magellan, exclusive of tho time that she lay in Port Famine ; and 1 am persuaded, from the winds we had, that if wo had eonie by that passage, we should not at this time have been in these seas ; that our people would have been fatigued, and our anchors, cables, sails, and rigging much danuiged ; neither of which inconveniences wo had now suffered. But, supposing it more eligible to go round the Cape than through tho Strait of Magellan, it may still be questioned, whether it is better to go through tho Strait of Le Maire, or stand to the eastward, and go round Statcn Land. The advice given in the Account of lord Anson's voyage is, " That all ships bound to the South Seas, instead of passing tlirough the Strait of Le Maire, should constantly pass to the eastward of Staten Land, and should be invariably bent on running to the southward as far as the latitude of Gl or (32 degrees, before they endeavour to stand to the westward." But, in my opinion, different circumstances may at one time render it eligible to pass through the Strait, and to keep to the eastward of Staten Land at another. If the land is fallen in with to the west- ward of the Strait, and the wind is favourable for going through, I think it would be very injudicious to lose time by going round Staten Land, as I am confident that, by attending to the directions which I have given, the Strait may be passed with the utmost safety and convenience. But if, on the contrary, the land is fallen in with to the eastward of the Strait, and the wind should prove tempestuous or unfavourable, I think it would be best to go round Staten Land. But I cannot in any case concur in recommending the running into the latitude of 61 or 62, before any endeavour is made to stand to the westward. Wo found neither the current nor the storms which the running so far to the southward is sup- posed necessary to avoid ; and, indeed, as the winds almost constantly blow from that quarter, it is scarcely possible to pursue the advice. The navigator has no choice but to stand to the southward, close upon a wind, and by keeping upon that tack, he will not only make southing, but westing ; and, if the wind varies towards the north of the west, his westing will be considerable. It will, indeed, be highly proper to make sure of a westing sufficient to double all the lands, before an attempt is made to stand to the northward, and to this every man's own prudence will of necessity direct him *. We now began to have strong gales and heavy seas, with irregular intervals of calm and fine weather. * The recent Binvoy of the Straits of Miigcllan and Terra del Fiicgo by Captains King and Fitzroy, lias removed niiiny of tlic dittinultics whicli embarrassed former voyagers. Witli rcsjiect to tie passage through the Straits of Le Maire, Capt. King's opinion is qnite con- firmatory of tlmt of Capt. Cook. " Prudence, I think," says lie, " snggests tiie passage round Staten Land ; yet I should very reluctantly give up the opportunity tliat might offer of clearing tlie Sirait, and tlicicfore of being so much more to windward. With a southerly wind it would not be advisable to attempt tiie Strait ; for, witli a weather tide, the sea runs very cross and deep, and might severely injure and endanger the safety of a small vessel, and to a larger one do much damage. In calm weather it would bo still more imprudent (unless the western side of tho Strait can be reached, where a ship might anchor), on account of the tides setting over to the Staten Island side ; where, if it becomes advisable to anchor, it would neces- sarily be in very deep water, and close to tlie land. With a northerly wind the route seems not only practicable btit very advantageous, and it would require some resolution to give up the opportunity so invitingly offered. I doubt whether northerly winds, unless they arc very strong, blow through the Strait— if not, a ship is drifted over to the cstern shores, where, from the force of tho tides, she must be quite unmanageable. " Capt. Fitzroy seems to think there is neither dif- ficulty nor risk in passing the Strait. The only danger that does exist, and thntmay bo an imaginary one, is tho failure of the wind. Ships p.issing through" it from the u 33 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. MAncii, 17GS>. cnAPTER VII. — Tiir SKarm OP TiiR PAssAnE rnoji cwr. Tionx to the NnwLY-PiscovnnEn ISLANDS IN THE BOliTlI fSEAS, WITH A DKMUIl'TION OK TIIKIR KKillUE AND ArPKAR- ANCi;; SOME ACCOUNT OF Till: INIIAllITANTS, AND SEVERAL INf'IDENTS THAT IIAi'i'ENED DURING THE COURSE, AND AT THE SHIP's ARRIVAL AMONG THEM. On the first of March, wo wore in latitude .38" 44' S. anil longitude 1 10" 33' W., hoth by ohservation and by the log. This agreement, after a run of ({(JO leagues, was thought to bo very extraordinary; and is a demonstration, that after wo left the land of Capo Horn wo bad no current that affected the ship. It renders it also highly probable, that wo had been near no land of any considerable extent ; for currents arc always found when land is not remote, and sometimes, particularly on the cast side of tho continent in the North Sea, when land has been distant 100 leagues. IMany birds, as usual, were constantly about tho ship, so that Mr. Banks killed no less than 62 in one day; and what is more remarkable, ho caught two forest flies, both of them of the same species, but different from any that have hitherto been described ; these pro- bably belonged to tho birds, and came with them from the land, which we judged to be at a great distance. Mr. Banks also, about this time, found a large cuttle-fish, which had just been killed by the birds, floating in a mangled condition upon the water ; it is very different from the cuttle-fishes that are found in the European seas ; for its arms, instead of suckers, were furnished with a double row of very sharp talons, which resemble those of a cat, and, like them, were retractabl*^ Into a sheath of skin, from which they might be thrust at pleasure. Of this cuttle-fisii wc made one of the best soups we had ever tasted. The albatrosses now began to leave us, and after the 8th there was not one to be seen. Wc continued our course without any memorable event till the 24th, when some of tho people wlio were upon the watch in the night, reported that they saw a log of wood pass by the ship ; and that the sea, which was rather rough, became suddenly as smooth as a mill-pond. It was a general opinion that there was land to windward ; but I did not think myself tit liberty to search for what I was not sure to find ; though I judged we were not far from the islands that were discovered by Quiros in l(JO(i. Our latitude was 22° 11' S. and longitude 12/" ")5' W. On the 25th, about noon, one of the marines, a young fellow about twenty, was placed as sentry at the cabin-door ; while he was upon this duty, one of my servants was at tho same place prep.iring to ci t a piece of seal-skin into tobacco pouches : he had promised one to several of the men, but had refused one to this j'oung fellow, though he had asked him several times ; upon whicl he jocularl" threatened to steal one, if it should be in his power. It happened that the ser\ ant being called hastily away, gave tiie skin in charge to tho sentinel, without regarding what had passed between them. The sentinel immediately secured a piece of the skin, which the otiicr missing at his return, grew angry ; but after some altercation, contented himself with taking it away, declaring that, for so trifling an affair, he would not complain of him to the oflicers. But it happened that one of bis fellow- soldiers, overbearing the dispute, came to the knowledge of what had happened, and told it the rest ; who, taking it into their heads to stand up for the honour of their corps, reproaelied the offender with great bitterness, and reviled him in the most opprobrious terms ; they exaggerated bis offence into a crime of the deepest dye ; they said it was a sontli, are not so liable to the failure of the solaiu, lie would CDinphiin himself; for that liis honour would sufVcr if the otlender was not punished. IVom the scort's and reproaches of these men of honour, the p();)r young fellow retired to his ham- mock in an agony of confusion and shaiuo. The seijennt soon after went to him, and ordered him to follow him to tho deck : lie obeyed without reply; but it being in the dusk of the evening, he slipped from the Serjeant and went forward : he was seen by some of tho people, who thought he was gone to the head ; but a search being maile f(n" him afterwards, it was found that be had thrown himself overboard ; and I was then first made acquainted with the theft and its circumstances. The loss of this man was the more regretted as ho was remarkably j;hich we could not distinguish ; they were of a copper colour, and had long black hair. Eleven of them walked along the beach abreast of the ship, with poles or pikes in their hands which reached twico as high as themselves. While they walked on tho beach they seemed to be naked ; but soon after they retired, which they did as soon as the ship had passed the island, they covered themselves with something that made them appear of a light colour. Their habitations wore under some clumps of palm-nut-trees, which at a distance appeared like high ground ; and to us, who for a long time had seen nothing but water and sky, except tho dreary hills of Terra del Fuego, these groves seemed a terrestrial paradise. To this spot, which lies in latitude 18° 47" S., and longitude 139" 28' W., we gave the name of liAGooN Island. The variation of the needle hero is 2° 54' E. j^r I !l ill! ? li , t t 'I I t \ .14 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND TIIK AVORLP. A I'll 1 1,1 TOO. About ono o'clock wo niatlc sail to tlio westward, and about half an hour after throe wo saw land aLrain to the N.W. Wo got np with it at snn-et, and it proved to he a low woody island, of a circular form, and not much above a mile in compass. We iliscovered no inhabitants, nor could wo distinguish any cocoa-nut-trees, though wo were within half a mile of the shore. The land, however, was covered with vcrdvu'c of many hues. It liia in latitude Wl" 3,'t' S., and longitude ]',W 4li W., and is distant from Lagoon Island, in the direction of N. (5:2 W., about seven leagues. We called it Tiiuumh-Cap. I discovered, by the api)earancc of the shore, that at this place it was low water ; and I had observed at Lagoon Island that it was either high water, or that the sea neither ebbed nor flowed. I infer, therefore, that a S. by E. or S. moon makes high water. We went on with a fine trade-wind and pleasant weather, and on the .'ith, about three in the afternoon, wo discovered lanserve(l at flowed. I out three in ml of niiu-li 'I »)r twelve or, ailmirinj; which were any signs of at ritlges, as ?agtics long, vays seen in peared : the (I much the lie : in some y (li-'coveretl hat And the tiled abrea.st iset, and wc brought to, as it is dark 10 land, and ound of the this is^laiid the name the inland, eck ; that aile ; but this island, citudc 141* westward, of island;-, two largest c severally idcr water, them ten upon all of astcmmost distance of and. "Wc le N.W. of )earanoc of ttom with from the and some ) saw this, Ainii,, 17as!Iiip, siiddeiily liumehcd two oanooH with givai quickness ami dexterity, and tiiree of them getting into each, tliey put of!', as we imagined witli a design to come on board us; tlie ship was tlieivforc liroiiglit to, but tliey, like their ."ellows, stopped at the reef. We diil not, however, immediately make sail, as we observed two incsscngt-rs despatched to them from the other eanoes, wiiich were of a iniieh larger size. Wo pcrciived that tlu-se messengers made great expedition, wading and swimming along the i-eet ; u*. length they met, and the men on board the canoes making no dispositions to pass the reef, aUer having received the messagi*, we judgetl that they had resolved to come no farther. After >,aiting, therefore, seine little lime longer, we stood oil"; but when wo were got about two oi turcv " 32' E. On the 8th, abo it two o'clock in the afternoon, wo saw land to the northward, and about sunset came abreast of i'., at about the distance of two leagues. It appeared to be a double range of low woody islands joined together by reefs, so as to form one inland, in the form of an ellipsis or oval, with a lake in the middle of it. The small islands and reefs that circumscribe the lake have the appearance of a chain, and we therefore gave it the name of Chain Island. Its length seemed to be about five leagues, in the direction of N.W. and S.E., and its breadth about five miles. The trees upon it appeared to be large, and wc saw smoke rising in diftcrent parts of it from among them : a certain sign that it was inhabited. The middle of it lies in latitude 17" 23' S., and longitude 14r»» 54' W., and is distani fiom Bird Island forty-five Icages, in the direction of W. by N. The vaiiation here was, by several azimuths, found to be 4" .'54' E. On the 10th, having had a tempestuous night with thimder and rain, the weather was Jjazy till about nine o'clock in the morning, when it cleared up, and we saw the island to which Captain Wallis, who first discovered it, gave the name of Osuaburgh Island, called by the natives Maitca, bearing N.W. by W., distant about five leagues. It is a high round island, not above a league in circuit ; in some parts it is covered with trees, and in others a naked rock. In this direction it looked like a high-crowned hat ; but when it bears north, the top of it has more the appearance of the roof of a house. Wc made its latitude to be 17" 4JV S., its longitude 148" 10' W., and its distance from Chain Island, forty-four leagues, in the direction of W. by S. .^m POLYNESIAN ISHND. VOLCANIC s;iAMiD. CHAPTER VIII. THE AHRIVAL OF THE ENDEAVOUR AT OTAHETTE, CALLED TiY CAPTAIN AVALLIS KING GKOIlfiE THE THIRD's ISLAND. RULES KSTAULISHED FOR THAI FIC WITH THE NATIVES, AND AN ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL INCIDENTS WHICH nAPPENED IN A VISIT TO TOOTAHAH AND TUBOURAI TAMAIDA, TWO CHIEFS. About one o'clock, on Monday the 10th of April, some of the people who were looking out for (he island to which we were bound, said they saw land a-head, in that part of tlio horizon where it was expected to appear ; but it was so faint tluit whether there was land in sight or not remained a matter of dispute till sunset. The next morning, however, at six o'clock, we were convinced that those who said they had discovered land were not mistaken ; it appeared to be very high and mountainous, extendinor fi om W. by 8. 7r S. to W. by N. I N., and wc knew it to be the same that Captain Wallis had called King George the Third's Island. We were delayed in our .approach to it by light airs and calms, so that in the morning of the 1 2tli wc were but little nearer than wo had been the April, 17C9. A.MiiD, 170T. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 37 bnt we saw fto tliorcforo 143°3r»'W., the Groups. i, and about i be a double , in the form nd reefs that the name of f N.W, and irge, and wo 1 that it was i' W., and is ai'iation here weather was the island to Island, called a hisrh round and in others ifhon it bears ic its latitude nd, forty-four ..■*■ HY CAPTAIN RAIFIC WITH D IN A VISIT M were looking it part of tlio lere was land however, at nd were not jy s. ^y S. to called King ght airs and had been the 1 night before ; but about seven a breeze sprang up, and before eleven several canoes were seen making towards the ship : there were but few of them, however, that would come near ; and the people i:i thosy that did could not be persuaded to come on board. In every canoe tlicrc were young i)lantains, and branches of a tree which the Indians call E'M'ul/io: these, as we afterwards learnt, were brought as tokens of peace and amity ; and the people in one of the canoes handed them up the shi])'s side, making signals at the same time with great earnestness, which we did not immediately understand ; at length we guessed that tliey wished tlieso symbols should bo placed in some conspicuous part of the ship ; we, therefore, immediately stuck them among the rigging, at which they expressed the greatest satisfaction. We then jiurcha.'^ed their cargoes, consi.sting of cocoa-nuts and various kinds of fruit, wliich, after our long voyage, were very acceptable. AVe stood on with an easy sail all night, with soundings from twenty-two fathom to twelve, and about seven o'clock in tlio morning we came to an anchor in thirteen fathom, in Portroya' Bay, called by the natives Matacai. We were immediately surrounded by the natives in their canoes, wlio gave us cocoa-nuts, fruit resembling apples, bread-fruit, and some small fishes, in exchange for beads and other triHes. They had with them a i)ig, which they would not part with for anything but a hatchet, and therefore we refused to [lurchase it ; because if we gave them a hatchet for a pig now, we knew they would never afterwards sell one for less, and we (.ould not affortl to buy as many as it was probable we should want at that price. The bread-fruit grows on a tree that is about the size of a middling oak : its leaves are frequently a foot and a half long, of an oblong shape, dee})ly sinuated like those of the fig-tree, which they resemble in consistence and colour, and in the exuding of a white milky juice upon being broken. The fruit is about *he size and shape of a child's head, and the surface is reticulated, not much unlike a truffle : it is covered with a tiiin skin, and has a core about as big as the handle of a small knife : the eatable part lies between the skin and the core : it is as wliite as snow, and somewhat of the consistence of new bread : it must be roasted before it is eaten, being first divided into three or four parts : its taste is insipid, with a slight sweetness, some- what resembling that of the crumb of wheaten bread mixed with a Jerusalem artichoke. Among others who came off to the ship was an elderly man, whose name, as we learnt afterwards, was Owiiaw, and who was immediately known to ]Mr. Ciorc, and several others who had been here with Captain Wallis. As I was informed that he had been very useful to them, 1 took him on board the ship with some others, and was particularly attentive to gratify him, as I hoped lie might also be useful to us. As our stay here was not likely to be very sliort, and as it was necessary that the mer- chandise which we had brought for traffic with the natives should not diminish in its value, which it would certainly have done if every person had been left at liberty to give what ho jileased for such things as he should purcliase ; at the same time, that confusion and quar- rels must necessarily have arisen from there being no standard at market, I drew up the following rules, and ordered that they siiould be i)unctually observed : — Rules to lie of/geri-eil hi/ cecrt/ Person in or lelonr/hoi la /i!s Majcstys Ihirlc the Enilearour, for the letter cst.ahl\sh\n(i a rejnlar and uniform Trade for Proi-i.iion, c^r. tcilh the Inhidiitants eople whom wo haS, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES. TIIE FOUT ERECTED : A VISIT FUOJI SEVERAL CHIEFS ON UOARD AND AT THE FORT, WITH SOJIE ACCOUNT OF THE MUSIC OF THE NATIVES, AND THE MANNER IN WHICH THEY DISPOSE OF THEIR DEAD. On the next morning, Saturday the 15th, several of the chiefs, whom we had seen the day before, came on board, and brouglit with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refreshments, for which we gave them hatchets and linen, and such things as seemed to bo most acceptable. As in my excursion to the westward, I had not found any more convenient harbour than that in which we lay, I determined to go on shore, and fix upon some spot, conunanded by the ship's guns, where I might throw u]i a small fort for our defence, and ])re))are for making our astronomical observation. I therefore took a i)arty of men, and landed without delay, accompanied by ^Ir. Banks, Dr. Solander. and the astronomer, Mr. (ireen. We soon fixed upon a i)art of the sandy beach, on the N.E. point of the bay, Avhich was in every respect convenient for our i)urpose, and not near any habitation of the natives. Having marked out the ground that we iiitended to occupy, a small tent belonging to ^\r. Bunks was set up, which had been brought on shore for tliat purjjose. By this time a great number of tiie jieople had ;:;athered about us ; but, as it iippeared, only to look on, there not being a single weapon of any kiud among them, I intimated, however, that none of them were to come .piuL, 17fiO, ) hand, and ic : this he the wrong Air, Banks I bi'cn dis- Bauks witli )nstantly at Mr. Uanks out half an glass in his exi)re«siou Tho case on this dis- y tho hand, tho shore, woman met Lied to press 1 them, and om he gave lads. They the woman he same joy j were now IS, with the lat had been upon giving it for all the t he thought |iage, policy, kvevcr, they Tovernment, returned to EXCURSION M SEVKUAIi IE NATIVES, een the day iments, for ceptablc. irbour than manded hy 'or making out delay, soon fixed ery respect narked out was set n]>, iber of tho ing a single .ro to come Aeim., 17C9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 41 within the line I liad drawn, except one who appeared to he a chief, and Owhaw. To these two persons I addressed myself hy signs, and endeavoured to make them understand that wo wanted the ground which we had marked out to sleep upon for a certain number of nights, and that then wo should go away. AVhether I was understood I cunnot certainly deter- mine ; but the people behaved with a deference and ro^pect that at once pleased and surprised us. They sat down peaceably without the circle, and looked on without giving NATIVKS OF OTAUEITR TRADING WITH CAPTAIN COOK. US any interruption till wo had done, which was upwards of two hours. As we had seen no poultry, and but two hogs, in our walk when we wore last on shore at this place, wc suspected that, upon our arrival, they had been driven farther up the country ; and the rather, as Owhaw was very importunate with us, by signs, not to go into tho woods, which, however, and partly for these reasons, we were determined to do. Having, therefore, appointed the thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, we set out, and a great number of tho natives joined our party. As we were crossing a little river that lay in our way, we saw some ducks, and Mr. Banks, as soon as he had got over, fired at them, and happened to kill three at one shot : this struck them with the utmost terror, so that most of them fell suddenly to the ground, as if they also had been shot at the same discharge. It was not long, however, before they recovered from their fright, and we continued our route ; but we had not gone 'ar before we were alarmed by the report of two pieces, which were fire by the guai'd at the tent. We had then straggled a little distance from each other, but Owhaw immediately called us together, and, by waving his hand, sent away every Indian who followed us except three, each of whom, as a pledge of peace on their part, and an entreaty that there might be peace on oura, hastily broke a branch from the trees, and came to us with it in their hands. As we had too much reason to fear that some mischief had liappened, we hasted back to the tent, which was not distant above half a mile, and when we came up, we found it entirely deserted, except by our own people. It appeared tliat one of the Indians, who remained about the tent after wc left it, had watched his opportunity, and, taking the sentry unawares, had snatched away his musket. Upon this the petty officer, a midshipman, who commanded the party, perha))S from a sudden fear of farther violence, perhaps from the natural petulance of power newly ac<]nired, and perhaps from a brutality in his nature, ordered the marines to fire. The men, with as little consideration or humanity as the officer, immediately discharged their pieces among tho thickest of the flying crowd, consisting of more than a hundred ; and observing that tho fl I I I i ' I I • l1 I' ■ ■ i ' : 1 i t 1 Jirl ! 1^. 42 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. April, 1769. thief did not fall, pursued liini, and shot him dead. Wc afterwards Icamt that none of the others were either killed or wounded. Owhaw, who had never left us, observing that we were now totally deserted, got together a few of those who liad fled, though not without some difficulty, and ranged them about us. We endeavoured to justify our people as well as we could, and to convince the Indians that, if they did no wrong to us, we should do no wrong to them. Tlicy went away without any apjicarance of distrust or resentment ; and having struck our tent, we returned to the ship, but by no means satisfied with the transactions of the day. Upon questioning our people more particularly, whoso conduct they soon perceived we could not approve, they alleged that the sentinel, whose musket was taken away, was violently assaulted and thrown down, and that a push was afterwards made at him by the man who took the musket before any command was given to fire. It was also suggested, that Owhaw had suspicions, at least, if not certain knowledge, that something would bo attempted against our people at the tent, wliicli made him so very earnest in his endeavours to prevent our leaving it ; others imputed his importunity to his desire that we should con- fine ourselves to the beach ; and it was remarked, that neither 0»*'uaw, nor the chiefs who remained with us after he had sent the rest of the people away, would have inferred the breach of peace from the firing at the tent, if they had had no reason to suspect that some injury had been otFcrod by their countrymen; especially as Mr. Banks had just fired at the duckf : and yot tliat thoy did infer a breach of peace from that incident was manifest from till ir waviiiij their hands for the people to disperse, and instantly pulling green branches from the '.-COS. Hut what were the real circumstances of this unhappy Jiffair, and whether cither, and V hich of tlieso conjectures, were true, can never certainly be known. The next morning but few of the natives were seen upon the beach, and not one of them came off to the ship. This convinced us that our endeavours to quiet their apprehensions had not been effectual ; and wc remarked witli particular regret that wo were deserted even by Owhaw, who had hitherto been so constant in his attachment, and so active in renewing the peace that had been broken. Appearances being thus imfavourable, I warped the ship nearer to the shore, and moored her in such a manner as to command all the N.E. part of the bay, particularly the place which I had marked out for the building a fort. In the evening, however, I went on shore with only a boat's crew, and some of the gentlemen ; the natives gathered about us, but not in the same number as before ; there were, I believe, between thirty and forty ; and they trafficked with us for cocoa-nuts and other fruit, to all appearance as friendly as ever. On the 17th, early in the morning, wo had the misfortune to lose Jlr. Buchan, the person whom Mr. Banks had brought out as a painter of landscapes and figures. lie was a sober, diligent, and ingenious young man, and greatly regretted by Mr. Banks ; who hoped, by his means, to have gratified his friends in England with representations of this country and its inhabitants, which no other person on board could delineate with the same accuracy and elegance. Ho had always been subject to epileptic fits, one of which seized him on the mountains of Terra del Fuego ; and this disorder being aggravated by a bilious complaint, which ho contracted on board the ship, at length put an end to his life. It was at first pro- posed to bury him on shore, but Mr. Banks thinking that it might perhaps give offence to the natives, with whose customs we were then wholly unacquainted, we committed his body to the sea, with as much decency and solemnity as our circumstances and situation would admit. In the forenoon of this day we received a visit from Tubourai Tamaido and Tootahah, our chiefs from the west. They brought with them, as emblems of peace, not branches of plantain, but two young trees, and would not venture on board till these had been received, having probably been alarmed by the mischief which had been done at the tent. Each of them also brought, as propitiatory gifts, some bread-fruit, and a hog ready-dressed : this was a most acceptable present, as we perceived that hogs were not always to be got ; and in return we gave to each of our noble benefactors a hatchet and a nail. In the evening wc Avent on shore, and set up a tent, in which Mr. Green and myself spent the night, in order to observe an eclipse of the first satellite of Jupiter ; but the weather becoming cloudy, we were disappointed. ^Se April, 17C0. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 43 person a sober, by bis and its acy and on the plaint, irst pro- "ence to jody to admit. ah, our iches of ceived, lach of lis was and in lina: wc n order dy, wc t On the 18th, at daybreak, I went on shore, with as many people as could possibly bo spared from the ship, and began to erect our fort. While some were employed in throwing up intrenchmcnts, otliers were busy in cutting pickets and fascines, which the natives, who soon gathered round us as they had been used to do, were so far from hindering, that many of them voluntarily assisted us, bringing the pickets and fascines from the wood where tliey had been cut, with great alacrity. We had, indeed, been so scrupulous of invading their property, that wo purchased every stake which was used upon this occasion, and cut down no tree till we had first obtained their consent. The soil where wo constructed our fort was sandy, and this made it necessary to strengthen the intrenchmcnts with wood ; three sides wore to be fortified in this manner ; the fourtli was bounded by a river, upon the banks of which I proposed to place a proper number of water-casks. This day we served pork to the ship's company for the first time ; and the Indians brought down so much bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, that we found it necessary to send away part of them unbought, and to acquaint them by signs that wc should want no more for two days to come. Everything was pur- chased this day with beads : a single bead, as big as a pea, being the purchase of five or six cocoa-nuts, and as many of the bread-fruit. Mr. Banks's tent was got up before night within the works, and he slept on shore for the first time. Proper sentries were placed round it, but no Indian attempted to approach it the whole night. The next morning, our friend Tubourai Tamaide made IMr. Banks a visit at the tent, and brought with him not only his wife and family, but the roof of a house, and several materials for setting it up, with furniture and implements of various kinds, intending, as we understood him, to take up his residence in our neighbourhood. This instance of his confidence and good-will gave us great pleasure, and we determined to strengthen his attachment to us by every means in our power. Soon after his arrival, he took IMr. Banks by the hand, and loading him out of the line, signified that he should accompany him into the woods. ]Mr. Banks readily consented ; and having walked with him about a quarter of a mile, they arrived at a kind of awning which he had already set up, and which seemed to be his occa- sional habitation. Here he unfolded a bundle of his country cloth, and taking out two garments, one of red cloth, and the other of very neat matting, he clothed Mr. Banks in them, and, without any other ceremony, immediately conducted him back to the tent. His attendants soon after brought him some pork and bread-fruit, which he ate, dipping his meat into salt-water instead of sauce : after his meal, he retired to ]\Ir. Banks's bed, and slept about an hour. In the afternoon, his wife Tomio brought to the tent a young man about two-and-twenty years of .age, of a very comely appearance, whom they both seemed to acknowledge as their son, though we afterwards discovered that he was not so. In the evenings this young man and another chief, who had also paid us a visit, went away to the westward, but Tubourai Taniaide and his wife returned to the awning in the skirts of the wood. Our surgeon, Mr. Monkhouse, having walked out this evening, reported, that he had seen the body of the man who had been shot at the tents, which he said was wrapped in cloth, and placed on a kind of bier, supported by stakes, under a roof that seemed to have been set up for the purpose : that near it were deposited some instruments of war and other things, which he would particularly have examined but for the stench of the body, which was intolerable. He said, that he saw also two more sheds of the same kind, in one of which were the bones of a human body that had lain till they were quite dry. We dis- covered afterwards, that tiiis was the way in which they usually disposed of their dead. A kind of market now began to be kept just without the lines, and was plentifully sup- plied with everything but pork. Tubourai Tamaide was our constant guest, imitating our manners, even to the using of a knife and fork, which he did very handily. As my curiosity was excited by Mr. Monkhouse's account of the situation of the man who had been shot, I took an opportunity to go with some others to see it. I found the shed under which his body lay, close by the house in which he resided when he was alive, some others being not more than ten yards distant ; it was about fifteen feet lonf, and eleven broad, and of a proportionable height : one end was wholly open, and the other end and the two sides, wore partly enclosed with a kind of wicker-work. The bier on which lil (, (! 1 •1 i; 'M 44 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND TFIE WORLD. Aphil, 1709. tlio corpse was deposited, was a frame of wood like that in which the sea-beds, called cots, are placed, with a matted bottom, and supported by four posts, at the height of about five feet from the ground. The body was covered first with a mat, and then with white cloth ; by the side of it lay a wooden mace, one of their weapons of war, and near the head of it, which lay next to the close end of the shed, lay two cocoa-nut sliells, such as are sometimes used to carry water in ; at the other end a buncli of green leaves, witli some dried twigs, all tied togetlier, were stuck in the ground, by which lay a stono about as big as a cocoa- nut : near these lay one of the young plantain-trees which are used for emblems of peace, and close by it a stone axe. At tlio open end of tlic shed also hung, in several .strings, a great number of palm-nuts, and without the shed was stuck upright in the ground the stem of a ])lantain-trce about five feet high, upon the top of which was placed a cocoa-nut shell full of fresh water : against the side of one of the posts hung a small bag, containing a few i)ieces of bread-fruit ready roasted, which were not all put in at the same time, for some of them were fresh, and others stale. I took notice that several of the natives observed us with a mixture of solicitude and jealousy in their eountcnrnces, and by their gestures expressed uneasiness when we went near the body, standing themselves at a little distance while wc were making our examination, and appearing to be pleased when wc came away. Our residence on shore would by no means have been disagreeable, if we had not been incessantly tormented by the flics, which, among other misehicf, made it almost impossible for Mr. Parkinson, Mr. Banks's natural-history painter, to work ; for they not only covered his subject so as that no part of its surface could be seen, but oven ate the colour off tho paper as fast as he could lay it on. Wc had recourse to mosquito-nets and fly-traps, which, though they made tho inconvenience tolerable, were very far from removing it. On the 22nd, Tootahah gave us a specimen of the music of this country: four persons performed upon flutes, which had only two stops, and therefore could not sound more than four notes, by half tones : they were sounded like our German flutes, except that tho per- former, instead of applying it to his mouth, blew into it with one nostril, while he stopped the other with his thumb : to those instruments four otlier persons sung, and kept very good time ; but only one tune was played during the whole concert. Several of the natives brought us axes, which they had received from on board the Dolphin, to grind and repair ; but among others there was one which became the subject of much sjjeculation, as it appeared to be French : after mucli inquiry, we learnt that a ship had been here between our arrival and the departure of the Dolphin, which we then conjectured to have been a Spaniard, but now know to have been the Boudeusc, commanded by M. Bougainville. CnAPTER X. — AN EXCCRSION TO THE EASTWARD, AN ACCOUNT OP SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED BOTH ON BOARD AND ON SHORE, AND OP THE FIRST INTERVIEW WITH UBEREA, THE PERSON AVIIO, WHEN THE DOLPHIN WAS HERE, AVAS SUPPOSED TO BE QUEEN OP TUB ISLAND, AVITU A DESCRIPTION OF THE FORT. On the 24th, ]Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the coimtry for several miles along the shore to the eastward : for about two miles it was flat and fertik^ ; after that the hills stretched quite to the water^s edge, and a little farther ran out into the sea, so that tliey were obliged to climb over them. These hills, which were barren, continued for about three miles more, and then terminated in a large plain, which was full of good houses, and people who appeared to live in great aflluonce. In this place there was a river, much more con- siderable than that at our fort, Avhich issued from a deep and beautiful valley, and, where our travellers crossed it, though at some distance from the sea, was near one hundred yards wide. About a mile beyond tins river the country became again barren, the rocks every- where projecting into the sea, for which reason they resolved to return. Just as they had formed this resolution, one of the natives offered them refreshment, which they accepted. They found this man to bo of a kind that has been described by various authors, as mixed ApBit, 17C9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. a with many nations, hut distinct from them all. His skin was of n dead white, without tho least appearance of what is called coniph-xion, though some parts of his hody were in a small decree less white than others : his hair, eyehrows, and heard, were as white as his sliin ; his eyes appeared as if they were hloodshot, and lie seemed to ho very 8hort-si(,'lite. knives, and bcails, or oven nails and lirokcn glass, is in tlic sanio state of trial with tlio meanest servant in Eurojio among unlocked cofVers of jewels and gold. On the 2()tli, I mounted six swivel guns ujion the fort, vsliich I was sorry to sco struek tlic natives witli dread : some fishermen who lived upon the point removed farther off, and Owhaw told us, by signs, tlhit in four days we should firo great guns. On the 27th, Tuhourai Tamaide, with a friend, who ato with a voraeity that I never saw before, and tho three women that usually attended him, whoso names were Tkbapo, Tihao, and Omie, dined at tho fort : in tho evening they took their leave, and set out for the house which Tuhourai Tamaide had sot up in the skirts of the wood ; but in less than a quarter of an hour ho returned in great emotion, and hastily seizing Mr. Danks's arm, made signs that hu should follow him. Mr. Banks immediately complied, and they soon came up to a jdaco where they found the ship's butcher with a reaping-hook in his hand : hero the chief 8toj)pcd, and, in a triinsport of rage which rendered his signs scarcely intelligible, intimated that the butcher had threatened, or attempted, to en* his wife's throat with the reaping- hook. Air. Banks then signified to him, that if he could fully explain tho offence, the man should be punished. Upon this he became more calm, and made Mr. Banks understand that the offender, having taken a fancy to a stone-hatchet which lay in his house, had offered to purchase it of his wife for a nail : that she having refused to part with it upon any terms, he had catched it up, and throwing down the nail, threatened to cut her throat if she made any resistance : to prove this charge the hatchet and the nail were produced, and the butcher had so little to say in his defence, that there was not the least reason to doubt of its truth. ]\rr. Banks having reported this matter to me, I took an opportunity, when the chief and his women, with other Indians, were on board the ship, to call up the butcher, uud after a recapitulation of the charge and the proof, I gave orders that he should be punished, as well to prevent other offences of the same kind, Jis to .. lit Mr. Banks of his promise : tho Indians saw him stripped and tied up to the rigging with a fixed attention, waiting in silent suspense for the event ; but as soon as the first stroke was given, they interfered with great agitation, earnestly entreating that the rest of the punishment might bo remitted : to this, however, for many reasons, I could not consent, and when they found that they could not prevail by their intercession, thoy gave vent to their pity by tears. Their tears, indeed, like those of children, were always ready to express any passion that was strongly excited, and like those of children they also appeared to be forgotten as soon as shed ; of which the following, among many others, is a remarkable instance. Very early in the morning of the 28th, even before it was day, a great number of them came down to the fort, and Terapo being observed among the women on the outside of the gate, Jlr. Banks went out and brought her in ; ho saw that the tears then stood in her eyes, and as soon as she entered they began to flow in great abundance : he inquired earnestly the cause, but instead of answering she took from under her garment a shark's tooth, and struck it six or seven times into her head with great force ; a profusion of blood followed, and she talked loud, but in a most melancholy tone, for some minutes, without at all regarding his inquiries, which he repeated with still more impatience and concern, while the other Indians, to his great surprise, talked and laughed, without taking the least notice of her distress. But her own behaviour was still more extraordinary. As soon as the bleeding was over, she looked up with a smile, and began to collect some small pieces of cloth, which during her bleeding she had thrown down to catch the blood j as soon as she had picked them all up, she carried them out of the tent, and threw them into the sea, carefully dispersing them abroad, as if she wished to prevent the sight of them from reviving the remembrance of what she had done. She then plunged into the river, and after having washed her whole body returned to tho tents with the same gaiety and cheerfulness as if nothing had happened. It is not, indeed, strange, that the sorrows of these artless people should be transient, any more than that their passions should be suddenly and strongly expressed : what they feel they have never been taught either to disguise or suppress, and having no habits of thinking which perpetually recall the past and anticipate the future, they are affected by all "JW- Arnii., 17C1). COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROTUND THE WORLD. 47 tlio changes of tlio passiiip; liour, and reflect tlio colour of tlie time, liowcver frequently it may vary ; tliey liavc no project wliieli is to bo pu'-siied from tlay to day, the siiJyeet of unremitted anxiety and solicitude, that first rushes into their mind when they awake in the morning, and is last dismissed when they sleep at night. Yet if wo admit that they arc upon the whole happier than we, wo must admit that the child is lia])picr than the man, and that wo arc losers hy the perfection of our nature, the increase of our knowledge, and the enlargement of our views. CANORS OF OTAIIEITE. iion that as soon Very ^m came ;he gate, |yes, and fstly the Id struck and she rding his Indians, Idistress. 'as over, |x during ;hcni all Ispcrsing nbrancc llicd her ling had fansient, liat they Itabits of by all Canoes were continually coming in during all this forenoon, and the tents at the fort were crowded with people of both sexes from different parts of the island. I was myself busy on board the ship, but Mr. ]\[olincux, our master, who was one of those that made the last voyage in the Dolphin, went on shore. As soon as ho entered Sir. Banks's tent lie fixed his eyes upon one of the women, who was sitting there with great composure among the rest, and immediately declared her to bo the j)crson who at that time was supposed to be the queen of the island ; she also, at the same time, acknowledging him to bo one of the strangers whom she had seen before. The attention of all present was now diverted from every other object, and wholly engaged in considering a person who had made so distinguished a figure in the accounts that had been given of this island by its first discoverers ; and wo soon learnt that her name was Oberea. She seemed to bo about forty years of age, and was not only tall but of a largo make ; her skin was white, and there was an uncommon intelligence and sensibility in her eyes ; she appeared to have been handsome when she was young, but at this time little more than memorials of her beauty were left. As soon as her quality was known, an offer was made to conduct her to the ship. Of this she readily accepted, and came on board with two men and several women, who seemed to be all of her family : I received her with such marks of distinction as I thought would gratify her most, and was not sparing of my presents, among which this august personage seemed particidarly delighted with a child's doll. After some time spent on board, I attended her back to the shore ; and as soon as we landed, she presented me with a hog and several bunches of plantains, which she caused to bo carried from her canoes up to the fort in a kind of procession, of which she and myself brought up the rear. In our way to the fort we met Tootahah, who, though not king, appeared to bo at this time invested with the sovereign authority ; he seemed not to be well pleased with the distinction that was showed to the lady, and became so jealous when she produced her doll, that to propitiate him it was ; m l\ ll 40 COOKS FIRST VOYAGK ROUND THE WORF.D. A PHI I., 17(*9« thouglit proper to cimplinu'iit liim witli anotliLT. At this tiinn ho thoiiglit fit to prcft-r a doll to a hatchot ; hut this priTcrt'iico amso only fnun a chihlish jciiloiiny, which cmihl not 1)0 soothfii hut hy a gift of t-xactly the same kind with that which had boon pri'sentcd to Oherca ; for dolla in a very short tinio were universally considered as trifles of no vnhic. The men who had visited us from time to time had, without scruple, eaten of our provisions ; but tho women had never yet been prevaileil upon to taste a morsel. To-day, liowcvcr, thongh they refused the most pressing solicitations to dino with the gentlemen, they after- wards retired to tho servants' apartment, and ate of plantains very heartily ; a mystery of female economy here, which none of us could ex|)lain. On the 20th, not very early in tho forenoon, Mr. Banks went to pay his court to Oborca, and was told that she was still asleep under the awning of lier canoe ; thither therefore ho went, intending to call her up, a liberty which ho thought ho might take, without any danger of giving oftence ; but, upon looking into her chamber, to his great astonishment ho found her in bed with a handsome young fellow about fivc-and-twenty, whoso name was OiiADKR ; ho retreated with some haste and confusion, but was soon made to understind, that such amours gave no occasicm to scandal, and that Obadue Avas universally known to have been selected by her as tho object of her private favours. The lady being too polite to suft'er Mr. Banks to wait long in her antechamber, dressed herself with more than usual expedition ; and, as a token of special grace, clothed him in a suit of fine cloth and proceeded with him to the tents. In the evening Mr. Banks paiut an ind ti) Iiis yickncss and appi v- lionsidiiH ; ami lii' spimt tlio il;iy at tia- fort witli tiiat uncoinnion flow i)f clurrfulmws iiid goofl liunioiir wliicli in uhvays iiroduceJ by a suddiii and uiu-xiKctcd nlicf from pain lillur of body or minliion ; iIiIm I I ad not yet I'rodueetl, as it never happened to come into my mind. Itnt on the first of May Tootahah comin;r on board about ten o'clock in the forenoon, expressed a great curiosity to see tlii^ contents of every chest and drawer that was in my cabin : as I always made a jioint of f;ratif\ ing him, I opened them immediately ; and having taken a fancy to many thin<;8 that he saw, and eollt cti <1 them together, he at last happened to cast his eye upon this adze ; lie instantly snatehetl it up with the greatest eagerness, and jmtting away everything which he had before sehcted, lit? a>ked nio whether I would let him have that ; I readily consented ; and, as if he was afraid I should repent, he carried it off immediately in a transport of joy, without making any other request, which, whatever had been our liberality, was seldom the case. About noon, a chief, who had dined with me a few days before, accompanied by some of his women, canjo on board aloni- : I had observed that he was fed by his women, but I made no doubt that upon occasion he would condescend to feed himself; in this, however. I fonnd myself mistaken. When my n(d)le guest was seated, and the dinner njion the table, I helped him to sonic victuals : as I observed that he did not immediately begin his meal, I pressed him to cat ; but he still continued to sit niotionk>ss like a statue, without attempting to ])ut a single morsel into his mouth, and would certainly have gone without his dinner, if one of tho servants had not fed him. think it with a applied xs dying, ic must is Indian ndency : (dded up ffeets of ning its egged of hat they powder, e looked ry short to drink CHAPTER XI. THE OBSERVATORY .SET UP ; THE QUADRANT STOLEN, AND CONSEaUENCES OP THE THEFT : A VISIT TO TOOTAHAH : DE.SCRI1'T10N OF A WRESTLING-MATCIl : El'RO- PEAN SEEDS SOWN : NAMES GIVEN TO OCR PEOPLE BY THE INDIANS. In the afternoon of Monday the Ist of ilay, we set up the observatory, and took tho astronomical quiidrant, with some other instruments, on shore, for the first time. The next morning, about nine o'clock, I went on shore with ^Ir. Green to fix the quadrant in a situation for use, when to our inexpressible surprise and concern it was not to Ik' found. It had been deposited in the tent which was reserved for my use, where, as I jiassjd the night on boiird, nobody slejit : it had never been taken aeking-ease, w hich was eighteen inches squ:>re, and the whole was of considerable weight ; a sentinel had been posted the whole night w'tliir. five yards of the tent door, and none of the other iiistiumcnts were missing. We at first suspected tliat it might have been stolen by some of our own people, who seeing a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might think it contained nails, or some other subjects of traffic with the natives. A large reward was therefore offered to any one who could find it, as. without this, we could not perform the service for which our voyage was principally undertaken. Our search in the mean time was not con- fined to the fort and places adjacent, but as the case might possibly have been carried back to the ship, if any of our own people had been the thieves, the most diligent search was made for it on board ; all the parties, however, returned without any news of the quadrant. Mr. Banks, therefore, who upon such occasions declined neither labour nor rit^k, and who had more influence over the Indians than any of us, determined to go in search of it into the woods ; he hoped, that if it had been stolen by the natives, he should find it wherever they had opened the box, as they would immediately discover that to them it would bo wholly useless : or, if in this ex])ectaiion he should be disappointed, that he might recover it by the ascendancy he had acquired over the chiefs. lie set out, accompanied by a midshipman and i\Ir. Green, and as he was crossing the river he was met by Tuhourai Tamaidc, who immediately made the figure of a triangle with three bits of straw upon his E fiO COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. iMay, 1709. I m i^i hand. By this Mr. Bunks knew that the Indians were the thieves ; .and that, although thoy had opened tlic case, tliey were not disposed to part with the contents. No time was therefore to be lost, and Mr. Banks made Tubourai Taniaide understand, that he must instantly go with him to the place whither t'o quadrant had been carried; he consented, and they set out together to the eastward, the oiiicf inquiring at every house which thoy passed alter the thief by name : tlie people readily told liim which way he was gone, ana how long it was since he liad been there : the hope which this gave them that they should overtake him, supported them under their fatigue, and tliey pressed forward, sometimes walking, sometimes running, though the weather was intolerably hot ; when they bad climbed a hill at the distance of about four miles, their conduct(>r showed them a point full three miles farther, and gave them to understand that they were not to expect the instrument till they had got thither. Here they paused ; they had no arms, except a pair of pistols, which ]Mr. Banks ahvays carried in his pocket ; they were going to a place tliat was at least seven miles distant from the fort, where the Indians might be less submissive than at home, and to take from them what they had ventured their lives to get, and what, notwithstanding our conjectures, they a]ipeared desirous to keep : these were discouraging circumstances, and their situat on would become more critical at every step. They determined, however, not to relinquisli their enterjirise, nor to pursue it without taking the best measures for their security that were in their power. It was therefore determined, that Air. Banks and Mr. Green shouhl go on, and that the midshipman should return to me, and desire that I would senl a ]\arty of men after them, acquainting me, at the same time, that it was impos- sible they should return till it "as dark. Upon receiving this message, I set out, with such a party as I thought suffic'ent for tbe occasion ; leaving orders, both at the ship .and at the fort, that no canoe should be suflercd to go out of the bay, but that none of the natives should be seized or detained. In the mean time, Air. Banks and Air. Green purstied their journey, under the auspices of Tubourai Tamaide, and in the very spot which he h.ad specified, they met one of his own people, witli jiart of tlie quadrant in his liand. At this most welcome sight they stopped ; and a great number of Indians immediately ca:.-.c up, some of wiiom jiressing rjvther rndely upon them, Air. Banks thought it necessary to show one of his pistols, tlie sight of which reduced them instantly to order : as the crowd that {.othcred round them was every moment increasing, he marked out a circle in the grass, ana they ranged them- selves on the outside of it to the number of sever.al hundreds with gre.at qr.ietness and decorum. Into the middle of this circle, the box, which was now arrived, was ordered to be brought, with several reading-glasses, and other small matters, which in their huriy they had put into a pistol-case, that Air. Banks knew to be his property, it having b.en oonio time before st0. COfiK'S FUlSi' VOVAGE IU>1 ND iUK WOULD. 61 although time was he must cnted, and loy passi'd how long I overtake 3 walking, ihcd a hill hree miled it till they tols, which least seven homo, and thstanding lunistanccs, I, however, leasures for Banks and esire that I was inipos- t out, with he ship and none of the the auspices one of his J sight they om ])ressing pis-tuls, the ound them ngod thcin- ietness and ordered to huriy they b.eR oome deniandcl, |;it hao Lit;'n a fev,- small |i-, and most ruiioht the this ln'ii>4 be wantin-^ o miles, I ther upon nee of the It ; when in the iitmi.st llic Indians |ai Tan) aide burst into Is were also lion that he which was about a quarter of an hour ai'tcrwards. I was equally suiitrised and conctrnod at what liad happened, the confiiiing Tontahah being contrary to my orders, and therefore instantly set him at liberty. Upon inquiring into t'le affair, I was toll, that my going into the \MJod9 with a ; arty of men under anus, at a tiiiu! when a robbery had been committed, wliieli it was supposed I should resent, in jiroportion to our apparent injury by tlic loss, had so alarmed tlie natives, that in the evening they began to leave tlie neighbourhood of ihe fort with their effects : that a double canoe having been soeii to put off frum the bottom of thu bay by Jlr. Gore, the second lieutenant, who was left in command on board the shi]), and wlio had received orders not to suffer any canoe to go out, ho scut the boatswain with a boat after her to bring her back : that as soon as the boat came up, tlie Indians being alarmed, leaped into tiie sea ; and that Tootahah, being unfortunately one of the number, the boatswain tool'. Iiim up, and brought him to tlie sliip, suffering the rest of the people to swim on shore: that Mr. Gore, not suiHciently attending to the order that none of the people sliould be confined, had sent him to the fort, and Mr. I licks, the first lieutenant, who commanded there, receiving him in charge from Mr, Gore, did not think himself at liberty to dismiss him. The nation th-^t we intended to put him to death had possessed him so strongly, that he could not be |v rsuaded to the contrary till by my orders lie was led out of the fort. The people received him as they would have done a father in the samo circumstances, and every one pressed forward to embrace him. Sadden joy is commonly liberal, without a scruiiulous regard to merit : and Tootahah, in the first expansion of his heart, upon being unexpectedly restored to liberty and life, insisted upon our receiving a present of two hogs ; though, being conscious that upon this occasion we had no claim to favours, wo refused them many times. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr attended the next morning in their usual capacity of inar- ketmen, but very few Indians appeared, and those who came brought no provisions. Tootahah, however, sent some of his people for the canoe that had been detained, which they took away. A canoe having also been detained that belonged to Oberea, Tupia, the person who managed her affairs when the Dolphin was hero, was sent to examine whether aiiytliing on board had been taken away : and he was so well satisfied of the contrary, that he left the canoe where he found it, and joined us at the fort, where he spent the day, and slept on board the canoo at night. About noon, some fishing-boats came abreast of the tents, but would part with very little of what they had on board ; and wc felt the want of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit very severely. In the course of the day, Mr. Banks walked out into the woods, that by conversing with the people he might recover their confidence and good-will: ho found them civil, but they all complained of the ill-treatment of their chief ; wiio, they said, had been beaten and pulled by the hair. Mr. Banks endeavoured to con- vince them, that he had suffered no personal violence, which to the best of our knowledge was true; yet, perhaps the boii swain had behaved with a brutality which he was afraM or ashamed to acknowledge. The chief himself being probably, upon reco'lection, of opinion that we had ill deserved the hogs, which he had left with us as a present, sent a messenger in the afternoon to demand an axe, and a shirt, in return : but as I was told that he did i,ot intend to come down to liic fort for ten days, I excused myself from giving them till I should see him, hoping that liis impatience might induce him to fetch them, and knowing that absence would probably continue the coolness between us, to wiiich the first interview iT.ight put an end. The next day we were still more sensible of the inconvenience we had incurred by giving offence to the people in the person of their chief, for the market was so ill sujjplie'l tliit we were in want of necessaries. Air. Banks, therefore, went into the woods to Tubourai Taniaide, and with some difficulty persuaded him to let us have five baskets of bread-fruit; a very seasonable supply, as they contained above one hundred and twenty. In the after- noon another messenger arrived from Tootaliah for the axe and shirt ; as it was now become absolutely necessary to recover the friendship of this man, witluuit which it would bo to procure provisions, I sent word that Mr. Banks L>ly po mys :\\t him on the morrow, and bring what lie wanted vith us. Early the next morning he again to remind me of my promise, aud his perplo seemed to wait till wc should set out E 2 'I m COOK'S FIKST VO.YAUK ROUNI> THE WOULD. May, I7t!0. i ' It with groat impatience : I therefore orderoJ the pinnace, in wliich I embarked with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander abont ten o'clock: wc took one of Tootahali's people in the boat with ii!<, and in about an hour we arrived at his place of residence, which is called Ei'Ahuk, and is about four miles to the westward of the tents. Wq found tlic people waiting for us in great numbers upon the shore, so that it would have been impossible for us to have proceeded, if wny had not been made for us by a tall well-looking man, who had something like a turban about his head, and a long white stick in his Iiand, with which he laid about him at an unnierciful rate. Tiiis man conducted us to tlie eliief, while the people shouted round us, Taio Toota/ia/i, " Tootahah i^ your friend." We found him, like an ancient patriarch, sitting under a tree, with a number of venerable old men standing round him : lie made a sign to us to sit down, and immediately asV td for his axe. Tliis I presented to him, with an upper garment of broad-cloth, made after the country fashion, and trimmed with tape, to which I also added a shirt. IIo received them with great satisfaction, and immediately put on the garment; but the shirt he gave to the jierson who had cleared tlie way for us u])()n our landing, who was now seated by us, and of whom he seemed desirous that we should take particular notice. In a short time, Obcrea, and several other women Mhom we knew, came and sat down among us : Toolaiiah left us several times, but after a short absence returned, — we thought it had been to show himself in liis new finery to the peo]>le ; l)ut we wronged him, for it was to give directions for our refresliment and entertainment. While we were waiting for his return tiie last time he kit us, very impatient to be disuiissed, as we were almost suflt'ocatcd in the crowd, word was brouglit us that he exjiccted us elsewhere. AVe found him sitting under the awning of our own boat, and makini;' sii^ns that we should come to him ; as many of us, therefore, went on board as tlie boat would hold, and he then ordered bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts to bo brought, of botli wliich we ta^-ted, rather to ^ratifv him than because wc had a dc sire to eat. A message was soon after brought him, upon which he went out of the boat, and we were in a short time desind to follow. We were conducted to a largo area or court-yard, which was niiled round with liambnos about thi'ee feet high, on one side of his house, where an enter- tainment was iirovided for us, -'utirely new: this was a wrestling-match. At the upper end of the area sat the chief, and several of his principal men were ranged on each side of him, so as to form a semicircle; these were the Judges, by whom the victor was to be applauded. Seats were also left for us at each end of the line ; but we chose rather to be at liberty among the rest of the spectators. When all was reay having a more advantageous bold, or greater muscular force, threw the other on his back. When the contest was over, the ohl men gave their ])landits to the victor in a few words, which they re|>eated together iu a kind of tune : his coi'.nnest, was also generally cele- brated by three huzzas. The' entertainment was then suspended for a few minutes ; after which another coujde of wrestlers came forward and engaged in the same manner. Jf it happened that neither was thrown, after the 'jontest had continued about a minute, they parted, either by eonsent or the intervention of their friends ; and in this ease each slapped his arm, as u challenge to a ucvv engageiueufc either with the same antagonist or some other. F <|w ^■:. May, 1700. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 6S Wliile the wrestlers were cnfra^rcd, another party of men performed a daiiec, which lasted also about a minute; luit neither of these parties took tiie k-ast notice of each other, tlieir attention heing wholly fixed on wliat tliey were doing. AVe observed with pleasure that the conqueror never exulted over the vanquished, and that the vaiiquislied nevir repined at tho success of the lonqtieror : the whole contest was carried on with perfect good-will and good- hnniour, thougli in the presence of at least live hundred s])ectat()rs, of whom some were women. The nund)er of women, indeed, was comparatively small ; none but those of raidv were j)resent ; and we had reason to believe that they would not have been spectators of this exercise but in com])liment to us. This lasted about two hours ; during all which time the man who had made way for us when wo lauded, kept tlie people at a ]irirehaso either at any j>ricc: the people everywhere told them, that they all belonged toToot.ihah, and that Miey could sell none of them witluuit his permission. We now began to think that this man was indied a great ju-ince ; for an influence so extensive and al)solute coidd be acquired by no other. And wc afterwa -ds found that he adniinisten d the govirnminit of this part of the island, as sovi relgu, for a minor whom we never saw all the time that we were upon it. When Air. (Jreeu uturiied from this expedition, he said he had seen a tne of a size which he wa- afraid to relate, it being no less than sixty yards in circumference; but Air. Banks and Dr. 8(dauder so.m explained to him, that it was a species of the fig, the biandus of which, bending down, take fresh root in the earth, and thrs form a congeries of trunks, which beiuf verv ''lose to IIKAO 111' AN or.MllirAN. 11 w I cac h otl ler, and I all jome dby a common vegetation, might easily he mistaken for one ■i ^r 6i COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. May, 1769. •!: 1 '* \ m \H tiri ll ' Though tlie market at the fort was now tolerably supplied, provisions were brought more slowly ; a sufficient quantity used to bo purchased between sunrise and eight o'clock, but it was now become necessary to attend the greatest part of the day, Mr. Banks, therefore, fixed Itis little boat tjp before the door of the fort, which was of great use as a place to trade in: hitlierio wo had purchased cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit f(jr beads; but the market becoming rather slack in these articles, we were now, for the first time, forced to bring out our nails: one of cur smallest size, which was tabont four inches long, procured us twenty cocoa- nuts, and bread-fruit in proportion, so that in a short time our first plenty was reston^d. On tlie yth, soon after bi'eakfast, we received a visit from Oberea, being the first that slie had made us after the loss of our quadrant, and the unfortunate confinement of Tootahah ; with her came her present favourite, Obadoe, and Tnpia : they brought us a hog and some bread- fruit, in return for wliich we gave her a hatchet. We had now afforded our Indian friends a new and interesting object of curiosity, our forge, wliich having been set up some time, was almost constantly at work. It was now common for them to bring pieces of iron, w hich we suppose they must have got from the Dolphin, to be nn\de into tools of various kinds ; and as I was very desirous to gratify them, they were indulged except wlien the smith's time was too preeiaus to be spared. Oberea having received her hatchet, produced as much old iron as would have made another, witli a request that another might be made of it ; in thif-, however, I could not gratify her, upon whieli slie brought out a broken axe, and desii-ed it might be mended : I was glad of an oi)i)ortunity to compromise the difterenco between us; her axe was mended, and she appeared to be content. Thoy went away at night, and took with them the canoe, which had been a considerable time at the point, but promised to return in three days. On the 10th, I put some seeds of melons and other plants into a spot of ground which had l>een turned up for the purpose ; they had all been sealed up by the person of whom they wi-re bought, in small bottles with rosin ; but none of them came up except mustard ; even the encumbers and melons failed, and Mr, Banks is of opinion that they were spoiled by tlie total exclusion of fresh air. This day we le.'irnt the Indian name of the island, which is Otaiikite, and by tliat name I slia!) hereafter distingui;;!! it : but after great pains taken we found it utterly impossible to ttach the Indians to pronounce our names ; we had, tlierefore, new names, contiibting of sueli sounds as tiiey prodoced in the attempt. Tliey called me Tootc ; Mr. IJick.s, llete ; IMollineux tlioy renovmced in absolute despair, and called the j\Iaster Boha. from his Chris- tian nanje Koliert; Mr, Gore was Ton fro ; l)r, Solander, Tofinio ; and Mr, Bunks, 2\ij)'inc ; 3Ir. (jireen, Eteme ; Mr. Parkinson, Pal'tni ; Sir, Sporing, PuUh'i ; IVtersgill, Pitroilro i and in this nntnner they had now formed names for alniD^^t every man in the shi|> : in some, however, it ^^us not easy to find any traces of the oriijinal, and tliey were perliaps not mere arbitrary sounds formed upon the occasion, but significant words in tlielr own language. Monkhouse, the mids)iipn\an, who commanded the party tiiat killed the man for stealing the miii^ket, they called 3/^c])ortuuity of intimating tluvt they could never offend him so highly as by even touching bis [)iece ; it was now proper to enforce this prohibition, and be therefore added threats to bis reproof : the Indian bore all jiatiently ; but the moment Mr. Banks crossed the river, be set off with all bis family aiid furniture for bis house at Eparre. This being quickly known from the Indians at the fort, and great inconvenience being apprehended frt>m the displeasure of this man, who upon all occasions bad been particulariy useful, j\lr. Banks determined to follow him without delay, and solicit bis return : h(< set out tho same evening aceomjianied by ilr, Moliineux, and found bim sitting in tbe middle of a large circle of people, to whom he bad i)r()l)ably related what bad bajjpened, and his fears of tlu) consequeiures ; be was himj^clf tbe \( ry picture of grief and d slept all night in Mr. Banks's tent: their j)resence, i.owever, was no palladium ; for, between eieveu and twelve o'clock, one of tbe natives attempted to get into the fort l)y scaling the wills, with a design, no doubt, lo steal whatever be should bajtpen to find ; be was discovered by tho sentinel, who happily diil md, fire, and bo ran away umch faster than any of our ]ieoplc could follow bim. Ihv. iron, and iron-tools, wbicb were in continual use at the armourer's m 1 % I 1 06 COOK'S FIRST VOVAGR ROUND THE WORI '». May, 17G9. I forge, that was set up within the works, were temptations to theft which none of these peojile c'oiihl withstand. On tlic I4tli, whicli was Sunday, I directed that divine service should he performed at the fort : wo were desirous tli.at some of tiie principal Indians should he present, but when tlio hour canio, most of them were returned home. ]Mr. Banks, however, crossed the river, and hrouj^ht hack Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio, ho])\ng that it would give occasion to some inquiries on their part, and some instruction on ours : having seated them, he placed himself between them, and during the wliolc service, they very attentively observed liis bciiaviour, and very exactly imitated it ; standing, sitting, or kneeling, as they saw him do : they were conscious that we were employed a1>o\it somewhat serious and imiwrtant, as appeared by their calling to the Indians witiiout the fort to be silent ; yet when the service was over, neither of them asked any questions, nor would they attend to any attempt that was made to explain what had been done. Such were our matins ; our Indians thought fit to perform vespers of a very different kind. A young man, near six feet high, performed the rites of Venus with a little girl about eleven or twelve years of age, before scneral of our j)eople, and a great number of the natives, without the least sense of its being indecent or improper, but, as appeared, in per- fect conformity to the custom of the jdace. Among the spectators were several women of sujierior rank, particularly Oberea, who may properly be said to have assisted at the cere- mony ; for they gave instructions to the girl how to perform her part, whicli, young as she was, she did not seem much to stand in need of. This incident is not mentioned as an object of idle curiosity, but as it deserves considera- tion in determining a question which' has been long debated in philosophy ; Whether the shame attending certain actions, which are allowed on all sides to be in themselves innocent, is implanted in nature, or superinduced by custom ? If it has its origin in custom, it will, perhaps, be found difficult to trace that custom, however general, to its source; if in instinct, it will be equalh" ditfieult to discover from what cause it is subdued, or at least over-ruled, among these jwople, in whose manners not the least trace of it is to be found. On the 14tli and hlth, we had another opportimity of observing the general knowledge which these people had of any design tliat was formed ampeared not to have been trusted, or not to have been worthy of trust ; for they seemed all of tliem disposed to give intelligence where it might be foui\d. Mr. Banks traced it to a part of tlie bay where lie was told it had been put into a can.ie, but as it wa-* not of great consequence he did not complete the discovery. When he returned, he was told by Tubou- rai Tamaide, that another cask would be stolen before tiie morning : how he came by this knowledge it is not easy to imagine ; that he was not a party in the design is certain, for he came with iiis wife and his family to the ])laeo where tlie water-casks stood, and placing their beds near them, he said he would himself be a |)ledg(! for tlieir safety, in despite of the thief: of this, however, we would not admit; and making them understand that a sentry would be placed to watch the casks till tlie morning, he removed the beds into Mr. Banks's tent, where he and his family spent the night, making signs to the sentry when he retired tliat he should keep his eyes open. In tlie night this intelligence appeared to bo true; about twelve o'clock the thief came, but discovering that a watch had been set, ho went away without his booty. i\Ir. Banks's c(»nfidi'nce in Tubourai Tamaide had greatly increased since the affair of the knife ; in eonsequenee of which he was at length e.xjjosed to temi)tations which neither his integrity nor his honour was able to resist. They had withsto' d many allurements, but were at length ensnared by tin- fascinating charms of a basket of nails : these nails were much larger tlian any that had yet been brought into trade, and had, with perluqis some degree of criminal negligence, been left in a corner of Mr. Banks's tent, to which the chief lia 1 (\lw:iys tree access. One of these nails Mr. Banks's servant happened to see in his jiossession, upon his having inadvertently thrown back that part of his garment under which it was concealed. JMr. Banks being told of this, and knowing that no such thing had been Mav, 17fi9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. «7 given liim, citlior as a jircsent or in barter, iniinediately examined the basket, and discovered tliat out of seven nails five were missing. He then, though not without great rehictance, charged him with the fact, whicii lie immediately confessed, and liowever he might siifi'er, ■was probably not more liurt than his accuser. A demand was immediately made of restitution ; but this he declined, saying that the nails were at Ei)arrc : however, ^\r. Banks appearing to be much in earnest, and using some threatening signs, ho thought fit to produco one of them. He was then taken to tlio fort, to receive such judgment as should be given against him by the general voice. After some deliberation, that we might not appear to think too lightly of his offence, he was told tliat if he would bri:ig the otiier four nails to the fort, it should be forgotten. To this conditiim ho agreed ; but { am sorry to say he did not fulfil it. Instead of fetching the nails, ho removed with his fiimily before night, and took all his furniture with him. As our long-boat had appeared to be leaky, I thought it necessary to examine her bottom, and, to my great surprise, found it so much eaten by the worms, that it was necessary to give her a new one ; no such accident had hajipened to the Dolphin's bouts, as I was informed by the officers on board, and therefore it was a misfortune that I did not expect : I ftared that the pinnace also might be nearly in the same condition ; but, upon examining her, I liad the satisfaction to find that not a worm had touched her, though she was built of the same wood, and had been as much in the water : the reason of this difference I imagine to be, that the long-boat was payed with varnish of pine, and the pinnace painted with white lead and oil ; the bottoms of all boats, therefore, which are sent into this country, should be painted like that of the pinnace, and the shi])S should be sui)plied with a good stock, in order to give them a new coating when it should be found necessary. Having received repeated messages from Tootahah, that if we would pay him a visit he would acknowledge the favour by a present of four hogs, 1 sent Mr. Hicks, my first lieu- tenant, to try if he could not procure the hogs upon easier terms, \\\t\\ orders to show him every civility in his power. Mr. Hicks found that he was removed from Eparre to a place called Tkttaiiaii, five miles farther to the westward. He was received with great cordiality ; one hog was immediately produced, and ho was told that the other three, which were at some distance, should be brought in the morning. Mr. Hicks readily consented to stay ; but the morning came without the hogs, and it not being convenient to stay longer, he nturned in the evening with the one he had got. On Mie 2.'»th, Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio made their appearance at the tent, f(T the first time since he had been detected in stealing tue nails ; he seemed to be under seme discontent and apprehension, yet he did Uui think fit to purchase our coimtenance and good-will by restoring the four which he had sent away. As IMr. Banks and the other gentlemen treated him with a coolness and reserve which did not at all tend to restore hia peace or good-humour, his stay was short, and his departure abrupt. Mr. IMonkhouse, the surgeon, went the next morning in order to effect a reconciliation, by persuading him to bring down the nails, but he could not succeed. CHAPTER IX. ANOTIIKR VISIT TO TOOTAIIAIT, WITH VARIOUS AnVRNTrRFS. T:XTRAOR- DINAUY AMUSI;M|;NT 01' TlIU INDIANS, WITH REMAIUvS UPON IT. PKKPARATIONS TO OUSKllVE TllK TRANSIT OP VENUS, AND WHAT HAPPENED IN THE MEAN TIME AT THE FOUT. On the 27th, it was determined that we should pay our visit to Tootahah, though we were not very confident that we should receive the hogs for our pains. I therefore set out early in the morning, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and three others, in the pinnace. He was now riinoved from Tettahah, where Mr. Hicks had seen him, to a i)lace called Atahoi'hou, about six miles farther; and as we could not go above half-way thither in the boat, it was almost evening before we arrived : we found him in his usual state, sitting under a tree, with a great crowd about him. We made our presents in duo form, consisting of a yellow stuff petticoat, and some other trifling articles, which were graciously received ; a ■j!:' 08 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. INI AY, 1700. liog was immediately ordered to be killed and dressed for supper, with a promise of more in the morning : however, as we were less desirous of feasting ui)on our journey than of carry- ing back witii us provisions, which would be more welcome at the fort, wo procured i\ reprieve for the iiog, and supped upon the fruits of the country. As night now came on, and tlie place was crowiled witii many more tlian the liouses and canoes wonid contain, there being Oberea witli lur attendants, and many other travellers whom wo knew, wo began to look out for lodgings. Our party consisted of six : Mr. Hanks thought liimsclf fortunate in being offored a place by Oberea in her canoe ; and wishing his friends a good, niglit, took his leave, lie went to rest early, according to tlie custom of the coimtry, and taking off his clothes, as was his constant practice, the nights being hot, Oberea kindly insisted upon taking them into her own custody, for otherwise she said they would certainly bo stolen, Mr. Banks having such a safegiuird, resigned himself to sleep witli all imaginable tranquillity ; but waking about eleven o'clock, and wanting to get up, ho searched for his clotlies where he had seen them deposited by OI)crea when he lay down to sleep, and soon perceived that they were missing. He immediately awakened f)berea, who starting up, and Iicaring his complaint, ordered liglits, and prepared in great haste to recover what ho had lost. Tootaliali himself slept in tl»e next canoe, and Ijcing soon alarmed, he came to tlieni, and set out with Oberea in search of the thief. ^Ir. Banks was not in a condition to go witli tliem, for of his ap))arel scarce anytliing was left him bnt iiis breeches ; his coat and his waistcoat, witli his pistols, ])owder-horn, and many other things that were in the pockets, were gone. In about half an hour his two noble friends returned, bnt witliout having obtained any intelligence of liis clothes or of the thief. At first he began to be alarmed; his musket had not indeed been taken away ; but he had neglected to load it ; where I and Dr. Solaiuler had disposed of ourselves he did not know; and therefore, whatever might Jiajij^'u, he coulil not have recourse to us for assistance, lie thought it best, however, to express neither fear nor snspicion of those about him, and giving his musket to Tupia, who had been waked in the confusion, and stood by him, with a charge not to suffer it to be stolen, he betook himself again to rest, declaring himself perfectly satisfied with the pains tliat Tootahah and Oberea had taken to recover his things, though tliey iiad not been successful. As it cannot be supposed that in such a situation his sleep was very sound, ho soon after heard music, and saw lights at a little distance on shore : this was a concert or assembly, which they call a lIinvA, a common name for every public exhibition; and as it would necessarily iiring many peo))le together, and there was a ch.ance of my being among them with his other friends, he rose, and made the best of his way towards it : he was soon led by the lights and tlie sound to the hut where I lay, with three other gentlemen of our party ; and easily distinguishing us from the rest, he made up to us more than half naked, and told us his melancholy story. We gave him such comfort as the unfortunate generally give to each other, b\' telling him that we were fellow-sufferers; I showed him that I was myself without stockings, they having been stolen from under my head, though I was sure I had never been asleep, and each of my associates convinced him, by his ajipearance, that he hail lost a jacket. We determined, however, to hear out the concert, however deficient we might appear in our dress ; it consisted of three drums, four flutes, and several voices : when this entertainment, which lasted about an hour, was over, wc retired again to our sleeping places; having agreed that nothing could be done toward the recovery of our things till the morning. We rose at day-break, according to the custom of the country : the first man that Mr. Banks saw was Tupia, faithfully attending with his musket ; and soon after Oberea brougiit him some of her country clothes, as a succedaneum for his own ; so that when ho came to us he made a most motley nipearance, half Indian and half English. Our Jiarty soon got together, except Dr. Solan whose quarters we did not know, and who had not assisted at the concert : in a short tim lotahah made his appearance, and wo pressed him to recover our clothes; but neither he uoi Oberea could be persuaded to take any measure for that jiurposc, so that we began to suspect that they had been parties in the theft. About eigiit o'clock we were joined by Dr. Solander, who had fallen into honester hands at a liouso about a mile distant, and had lost nothing. Having given up all hope of recovering our May, 1709. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. • things Bin that Ohorea hen ho jiarty ad not ■ie (1 him neasnrc About a lioiiso injj our dotlios, which, indeed, were never afterwards lieard of, wc spent all the morning in soliciting the hoga whicii we had been promised ; hut in this we had no better success : we therefore, in no very good humour, set out for the boat about twelve o'clock, with only that wliich wo had redeemed from the butcher and the cook th(^ night before. As we were returning to the boat, however, we wito entertained with a sigh', that in some measure couiiieiisated for our fatigue and ilisaiipointment. In our way we came to one of tiie few places where access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and, consequently, a high surf breaks upon the shore ; a more dreailful one, indeed, I had seldom seen ; it was im|)ossible for any European boat to have livid in it ; and if the best swimmer in Europe had, by any accident, been exposed to its fury, I am confident that he would not have been able to preserve himself from drowning, especially as the shore was covered with pebbles and large stones ; yet, in the midst of these breakers, were ten or twelve Indians swimming for their anmsement : whenever a surf broke near them, they dived under it, and, to all appearance with infinite facility, rose again on the other side. This diversion was greatly improved by the stern of an old canoe, which they happened to fii\d upon the spot : they took this before them, and swam out with it as far as the outermost breach, then two or three of them getting into it, and turning the square end to the breaking wave, were driven in towards the shore with incredible rapidity, sometimes almost to the beach ; but generally the wave br(d;e over them before they got half way, in which case they dived, and rose on the other side with the canoe in their hands : they then swam out witli it again, and were again driven back, just as our holiday youth climb the hill in fireenwieh-))ark for the l)leasure of rolling down it. At this wonderful scene we stood gazing for more than half an hour, during which time none of the swimmers attempted to come on shore, but seemed to enjoy their sport in the highest degree ; we then proceeded in our journey, and late in the evening got back to the fort. Upon this occasion it may be observed, that human nature is endued with powers whicli arc only accidentally exerted to the utmost ; and that all men are capable of what no man attains, excejit he is stimulated to the effort by some uncommon circumstances or situation. Tiiese Indians effected what to us a])peared to bo supernatural, merely by the apjdication of such powers as they possessed in conmion with us, and all other men who have no particular infirmity or defect. The truth of the observation is also maiiifest from more familiar instances. The rope-dancer and balance-master owe their art, not to any peculiar liberality of nature, but to an accidental improvement of her common gifts ; and though equal diligence and application would not always produce equal excellence in these, any more than in other arts, yet there is no doubt hut that a certain degree of proficiency in them might be imiver- sally attained. Another proof of the existence of abilities in mankind, that are almost universally dormant, is furnished by the attainments of blind men. It cannot be supposed that the loss of one sense, like the amputation of a branch from a tree, gives new vigour to those that remain. Every man's hearing and touch, therefore, are capable of the nice distinctions which astonish us in those that have lost their sight, and if they do not give the same intelligence to the mind, it is merely because the same intelligence is not required of them : he that can see may do from choice what the blind do by necessity, and by the same diligent attention to the other senses may receive the same notices from them ; let it, therefore, be remembered, as an encouragement to persevering diligence, and a principle of general use to mankind, that he who does all he can will ever effect much more than is generally thought to be possible. Among other Indians that had visited us, there were some from a neighbouring island which they called Eimko or Imao, the same to which Captain Wallis had given the name of the Duke of York's Island, and they gave us an account of no less than two-and-twenty islands that lay in the neighbourhood of Otaheite. As the day of observation now approached, I determined, in consequence of some hints which had been given me by Lord Morton, to send out two parties to observe the transit from other situations ; hoping, that if we should fail at Otaheite, they might have better success. We were, therefore, now busily cmidoyed in preparing our instruments, and instructing such gentlemen in the use of them as I intended to send out. On Thursday the I'l- ,1 I 60 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE M'ORLD. May, 17(i9. lat of Juno, the Saturday following liuiug tlio day of tlio tl•an^sit, I dcspatclied ^fr. fJoro in the long-hoat to Iniao, with Air. Monkhouso and Mr. yjmring, a giiitli-nian hdonging to ^^l•. Banks, Mr. (Jrceu having furnisla-d thiin with jiroju'r inntruMU-nts. ]\[r. Hanks iiiinsclf thonglit fit to go upon tliis t-xpi'dition, and sovcral natives, particularly Tuliourai Tamaido and Toniio, were also of tho party. Vi'ry early on the Friday morning, I sent Mr, Hicks, •with Mr. Clerk and jNfr. Petersgill, tho master's mates, and Mr. Saunders, one of tho niidshipnien, in the pinnace to tho eastward, with orders to fix on some convenient spot, at a distance from our prinei])al (djservatory, where they also might employ the instruments with wiiieh they ha'', and the longitude 14«)" 32' .10'' W. of Green- wich. A more p.artictdar account will appear by tho tables, for which the reader is referred to the Trans- actions of the Royal Society, vol. Ixi. part 2, page 3!)7, ct .•»<'(/., where they arc illustrated by a cut. But if we had reason to congratulate ourselves upon the success of our observation, we had scarce less cause to regret the diligence with which that time had been improved by some of our people to another purpose. Wliile the attention of the officers was engrossed by the transit of Venus, some of the ship's comj)any broke into one of tho store rooms, and stole a quantity of sj)ike nails, amounting to no less tiian one hundred- weight ; tins was a matter of public and serious concern ; for these nails, if circulated by the peojde among the Indians, wotdd do us irreparable injury, by reducing the value of iron, our staple commodity. One of the thieves was detected, but oidy seven nails ^. , , , . .... , , Ti • 1 1 -aI "• l'"'st contact of tlie planet with the limb were fonnd v.i his custody. He was punished with „f ,1,^, gu„ ' two dozen laslies, but would imiieach none of his b, c, U, e. Successive stages of Its passaL-e. accomplices. ^'* course ou leasing the bun's disk follows. THE TRANSIT OF VK.NIS. CnAPTF.R XIV. THE CERKMONIES OF AN INDIAN FUNERAL PARTICULARLY DESCRIRED : GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON TIIE SUIIJECT : A CHARACTER FOUND AMONG THE INDIANS TO WHICH TIIE ANCIENTS I'AID GREAT VENERATION : A ROBllERY AT THE FORT, AND ITS CONSEQUENCES : WITH A SPECIMEN OF INDIAN COOKERY, AND VARIOUS INCIDENTS. On the r)th, we kept his Majesty's birth-day ; for though it is the 4th, we were unwilling to celebrate it during the absence of the two ])arties who had been sent out to observe tho transit. We h;ni several of the Indian chiefs at our entertainment, who drank his Majesty's health b} the u..nie of Kihiargo, which v/as the nearest imitation they could produce of King George. About tills time died an old woman of some rank, who was related to Toniio, which gave us an opportunity to see how they disposed of the body, and confirmed us in our opinion that these pcojile, contrary to the present custom of all other nations now known, never bury their dead. In the middle of a small square, neatly railed in with bamboo, the awning of a IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I |2£ 125 ■ 40 ■ 2.2 lU IL25 IIVI.4 ■ 2.0 € Photograpliic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STtliT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14510 (716) •72-4503 i 6^ J;r f ) I 02 COOKS FIRST VOYAOK ROUND THE WORLD. JtNE, 170!>. canoe was raised upon two posts, and under this tlic l)ody was deposited upon sndi a frame as lias before been deseril)ed ; it was covered with fine cloth, and near it was |,'.4ct,'d bread- fruit, fish, and otliir provisions: we suppose that the food was placed tliere fo the spirit of the deceasee Indians had some confused notion of a separate state ; but upon our applying for further information to Tubonrai Tamaide, he told us, that the food was placed there as an offering to tlieir gods. They do not, however, sui>j>ose that the gods cat, any more than the Jews suppose that Jehovah could dwell in a house : the offering is made here upon the same principle as the teui]ile was built at Jerusalem, as an expression of reverence and gratitude, and a solicitation of the more imnieresence of the Deity. In the front of the area was a kind of stile, where the relations of the deceased stood, to pay the tribute of their sorrow ; and under the awning were innumerable small pieces of cloth, on which the tears and blood of the mourners had been shed ; for in their paroxysms of grief it is a universal custom to wttund themselves with the shark's tooth. AVithin a few yards two occasional houses were set up, in one of which some relations of the deceased constantly resided, anositiou of the liody when the state of probation is past ; yet that nothing ia more general than a solicitmic about it. However cheap we may hold any funeral rites which custom has not familiarised, or 8uperstiti, when nothing but a name remains. Perhaps no Ijctter use can be made of reading an account of manners altogether new, by which the follies and absurdities of mankind are taken out of that particular connexion in which, habit has reconciled them to ns, than to consider in how many instances they are JlNH, 17erformed, in honour of the old woman whoso sepulchral tabernacle has just been described, by the chief mourner ; and Mr. Hanks had so great a curiosity to see all the mysteries of the solemnity, that he determined to take a ))art in it, being told that he coiihl be present upon no other condition. In the evening, there- fore, he repaired to the jilace where the body lay, and was received by the daughter of the deceased, and several other persons, among whom wns a boy .ibont fourteen years old, who were to assist in the ceremony. Tubourai Tamaide was to be the principal mourner ; and bis dress, which was extremely fantastical, thotigli not unbecoming, is represented by a figure in one of the cuts. Mr. Hanks was stripj)ed of his Kurop(\an clothes, and a small l)iece of cloth being tied round his middle, his body was smeared with charcoal and water, as low as the shoulders, till it was as black as that of a negro : the sanu' operation was performed upon several others, among whom were some women, who were reduced to a state as near to nakedness as himself; the boy was blacked all over, and then the procession set forward. Tubourai Tamaide uttered something, which was supposed to be a prayer, near the body ; and did the same when ho came up to bis own house : when this was done, the procession was continued towards the fort, permissi(m having been obtained to approach it upon this occasion. It is the custom of the Indians to fly from these processions with tho utmost precijtitation, so that as soon as those who were about the fort saw it at a distance they hid themselves in the woods. It proceeded from the fort along the shore, and put to flight another body of Indians, consisting of more thnn a hundred, every one hiding himself under the first shelter that he could find: it then crossed the river, and entered the woods, passing several houses, all which were deserted, and not a single Indian could be svon during the rest of the procession, which continued more than half an hour. The office that Mr. Hanks performed, was called that of the S'liicen/i, of which there were two besides him- self; and the natives having all disapjieared, they came to the chief mourner, and said, Imatata, there are no people ; after which the company was dismissed to wash themselves in the river, and put on their custojuary a])])arel. On the 12tli, complaint being made to me, by some of the natives, that two of the seamen had taken from them several bows and arrows, and some strings of plaited hair, I examined the matter, and finding the charge well supported, I punished each of the criminals with two dozen lashes. Their bows and ar-ows have not been mentioned before, nor wero they often brought djwn to the fort. This day, however, Tubourai Tamaide brought down his, in consequence of a challenge which he had received from Mr. Gore. The chief sup- posed it was to try who could send the arrow farthest ; Mr. Gore, who best conld hit a mark ; and as Mr. Gore did not value himself upon shooting to a great distance, nor the chief upon hitting a mark, there was no trial of skill between them. Tubourai Tamaide, however, to show us what lie could do, drew his bow, and sent an arrow, none of which are feathered, two hundred and seventy-four yards, which is something more than a seventh, and something less than a sixth part of a mile. Their manner of shooting is some- what singular ; they kneel down, and the moment the arrow is discharged drop the bow. y ! I 04 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. Jink, 17G0. Mr. Dank^ in his morning walk tliis day, met a niiinhor of tlie natives, wliom, upon inquiry, lie found to Ik> travelling musicians ; and having learnt where they were to be at night, we all repaired to the i)lace. The hand consisted of two flutes and three drums, and we found a great number of people assembled upon the occasion. The drummers accom- panied the music with their voices, and, to our great surprise, we discovered that we were generally the subject of the song. We diil not expect to have found among the uncivilized inhabitants of this seijuestered spot a character, which has been the subject of such praise and veneration when genius ami knowledge have been most cons]>icnous ; yet these were the bards or minstrels of Otuheite. Tiieir song was unpremeditated, and accompanied with music ; they were continually going about fronj place to place, and they were rewarded by the master uf the house, and the audience, with such things as one wanted and the other could spare. On the 14th, we were brought into new difficulties and inconvenience by another robbery at the fort. In the middle of the night, one of the natives contrived to steal an inm coal- rake, that was made use of for the oven. It hapjiened to be set u]> against the inside of the wall, so that tlie top of the handle was visible from without ; and we were informed that the thief, who had been seen lurking there in the evening, came secretly about three o'clock in the moniing, and, watching his opportunity when the sentinePs back was turned, very dexterously laid hold of it with a long crooked stick, and drew it over the wall. I thought it of some consequence, if jjossible, to put an end to these practices at once, by doing some- thing that should make it the comnvm interest of the natives themselves to prevent them. I had given strici orders that they should not be fired npon, even when detected in these attempts, for which I had many reasons : the common sentinels vere by no means fit to bo entnisted with a power of life and death, to be exerted whenever they sliould think fit ; and I had already experienced that they were ready to take away the lives that were in their power npon the slightest occasion ; neither, indeed, did I think that the thefts which theso people committed against us were, in hem, crimes worthy of death : that thieves are hanged in England I thought no reason why they sliould be shot in Otaheite ; becanse, with respect to the natives, it would have been an execution by a i.iw e.r jwH facto. They had no such law among themselves, and it diu not ap])ear to me that we had any right to make such a law for them. That they should abstain from theft, or be punished with death, was not one of the conditions under which they claimed the advantages of civil society, as it is among us ; and as I was not willing to expose them to fire-arms, Ioaon my original condititm. The next day came, and nothing farther was restored, at which I was much surprised, for the people were in the utmost distress for the fish, which in a short time would be spoilt ; I was, therefore, reduced to a «lisagreeable situation, either of releasing the canoes, contrary to what I had solemnly and i)ublicly declared, or to detain them, to the great injury of those who were innocent, without answering any good purpose to ourselves: Jl NE, 17(i!). COOKS FlHSr VOYACJK KOI'ND TllK UOIM-D. OA 1, waa us it is lu'ithcr and the iiiUl bo iH'ces- ;lit of a 110 with t M10C3 )rii!ging all tho ishimld it into e stolon of them lie i pally 18 shot ; to ono id great iriginal s much trt tinio :roject. Another accident aUo nhont this time was, notwithstanding all our caution, very near emhroiling us with the Imliaiis. I sent the boat on shore with an olVieer to get hallast for the ship, and not immediately finding stones convenient for tho purpose, he hegau to ]>ull pearod to be much more jealous of what was done to tlie dead than the living. This was the was instantly rescued by two more, who took hold of ^Ir. .Monkhouse's hair, and forced him to (juit his hold of their companion, and then ran away without oilVring him any farthir violence. In the evening of tho iSlth, wliile the canoes wore still detained, wo received a visit from < >berea, which surj)rised us not a little, as she brought with her none of the things that had boon stolon, and knew that she was suspected of having some of them in her custody. Sim said, indeed, that her favourite Obatloe, whom she had beaten and disinissetl, had taken them away ; but she seemed conscious that she had no right to bo believed. She discovered tho strongest signs of fear ; yet she surinouuted it w ith astonishing resolution, ami was very pressing to sleep with her attendants in Mr. lianks's tent. In this, however, she was not gratified ; the affair of the jacket was too recent, and the tent was besides filled with other ])Ooplo. Nobody else sccmeil willing to entertain her, and she, therefore, with great aj)pearance of mortification and disappointment, spent the night in her canoe. 'J'ho next morning early she returned to the fort with her canoe, ami everything that it contained, jtutting herself wholly into our power, with soinotliing like greatness of mind, which excited our wonder and admiration. As tho most efVictual means to bring about a reconciliation, she presented us with a hog, and several other things, among which was a dog. We had lately learnt that these aniinais were esteemed by tho Indiaiis as more delicate food than their pork ; and upon this occasion wo determined to try the ex)ieriment. Tho dog, which was very fat, wc consigned over to Tu|)ia, who undertook to perform the double ofhce of butcher and cook. He killed him by holding his hands close over his mouth and noso, an o])eration which continued above a quarter of an hour. While this was doing, a hole was made in the ground aliout a foot deep, in which a fire was kindled, and some small stones placed in layers alternately with the wood to heat ; the dog was then singed, by holiling him over the fire, and, by scrajting him with a shell, the hair take-. 'V as clean as if ho had been scaldeect ; and as all parts are here exposed with equal indiifercnce, the ceremony of uncovering it from the waist downwards, which was performed by Oorattooa, might be nothing more than a ditt'crent mode of compliment, adapted to persons of a different rank. The cltief can)c into the tent, but no entreaty could prevail upon the young woman to follow him, though she seemed to refuse contrary to her inclination. The natives without were, indeed, all very solicitous to prevent her, sometimes, when her resolution seemed to fail, almost using force : the boy also they restrained in the same manner ; but Dr. Solandcr happening to meet him at the gate, took him by the hand, and led him in before the people were nwarc of it. As soon, however, as those that were within saw him, they took caro to have him sent out. These circumstances having strongly excited our curiosity, we inquired who they were, and were informed that Oamo was the husband of Oberea, though they had been a long time separated by mutual consent ; and that the young woman and the boy were their children. Wc learnt also that the boy, whose name was Tehridiri, was her heir-apparent to the sovereignty of the island, and that his sister was intended for his wife, the marriage being deferred only till he should arrive at a proper age. The sovereign at this time was a son of AViiAPPAi, whose name was OiTTor, and who, as before has been observed, was a minor. Whappai, f )amo, and Tootabah, were brothers : "Whappai was the eldest, and Oamo the second ; so that, Whajipai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, the son of his next brother Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. It will, perhaps, seem strange that a boy should bo sovereign during the life of his father ; but, according to the custom of the country, a child succeeds to a father's title and authority as soon as it is born : a regent is then elected, cind the father oi" the new sovereign is generally continued in his authority, under that title, till his child is of age ; but .^t this time the choice had fiillon upon Tootahah, the uncle, in conse- qjienec of his having distinguished himself in a war. Oamo asked many questions concerning lOnglaixl an and us. Upon receiving this intelli- gence, wc did not, as may be imagined, relinquish our enterprise, but we immei k ;li ';! i I §■] 1 ': An COOKS FIRST VOYAOE UOUND THE AVORLD. .IjNK, 1709. train, liowevcr, clidso to swim, and took to tlic water with tlie same facility as a pat-k of lioiinds. Ill this jilace we saw no house tliat a])peareil to he inhabited, hut the ruins of many that liad heeu very large. We proceeded ah)ng ihe shore, which forms a hay, called O.MTii'r.iiA, and at last we found the chief sitting near some pretty canoe awnings, under which, we sujij)osed, lie and his attendants slept. He was a thin old man, with a very white head and heard, and had with him a comely woman, about five-and-twenty ycara old, whose name was To:i>ii)i)E. "NVe had often heard the name of this woman, .ind, from report and observation, wo had reason to think that she was the Ohkrka of this peninsula. From this i)lace, between w hich and the isthmus there are other harbours, formed by the reefs that lie along the shore, where shipping may lie in perfect security, and from whence tlic land trends S. S. E. and S. to the S. E. part of the iisland, we were accompanied by Teahee, the son of Waheatua, of whom we had purchased a hog, and the country we passed through appeared to be more cultivated than any we had seen in other parts of the island : the brooks were everywhere banked into narrow channels with stone, and the shore had also a facing of stone, where it was washed by the sea. The houses were neither large nor numerous, but the canoes that were hauled up along the shore were almost innumerable, and superior to any that we had seen before both in size and make; they were longer, the sterns were higher, and tho DOt ni.E CANiiE «nil CANOI'V. awnings were supported by pillars. At almost every point there \.as a sepulchral building, and there were many of them also inland. They were of the same figure as those in Opoureonu, but thov were cleaner and better kept, and decorated with many carved boards, wiiieh were set upright, and on the top of which were various figures of birds and men. On one in particular, there was the representation of a cock, which was painted red and yellow, to imitate the feathers of that animal, and rude images of men were, in somo of them, placed one upon tho head of another. But in this part of the country, however fertile and cultivated, we did not sec a single hread-fruit : the trees were entirely bare ; and the inhabitants seemed to subsist principally upon nuts, which are not unlike a chesnut, and which they call A/wc. When we had walked till wc were weary, we called up the boat, but both our Indians, Tituboalo and Tuahow, were missing : they had, it seems, staj-ed behind at Waheatua's, expecting us to return thither, in consequence of a jiromise which had been extorted from us, and which we had it not in our power to fulfil. Tearee, however, and another, embarked with us, and wc proceeded till wo came abreast of a small island called Otooaueite ; it being then dark, we determined to land, and our Indians conducted us to a place where they said we might sleep : it was a deserted house, and near it was a little cove, in which the boat might lie with great safety and convenience. We were, however, in want of provisions, having been very sparingly supplied since we set out ; and Mr. Banks immediately went into the woods to see whether any could ho procured. As it was dark, ho met with no people, and could find hut one house that was inhabited : a bread-fruit and a half, a few ahees, and some fire, wire all that it afforded ; upon which, with a duck or two, and a few Jink, 17(i5). COOKS FIRST VOYAC.K KOI'M) TIIK WOULD. m curlews, wo niailo our siip|u'r — wliicli, if jiot scanty, was ilisanrcoablc, by tlio want of i>roa'I, witli wliitli wc liad ncpli-ttcd to furnish oiirsclvc?', as wt' (Icjuntli'd uixin nut'tinir willi Imail- fniit — and took up our lodging undiT tlio awning of a canoo belonging to Tcareo, wMcIi followed ns. Tlie next morninpr, after liaving sucnt sonic time in another fniitless atteinjit to procure a pnjtply of provisions, wo proceeded round the south-east i)oiiit, jiart of which is not eovereil by any reef, but lies o|)en to tlie sea; and lure tho hill rises directly from tlie slioro. At tlio southernmost jiart of the island, tlic shore is again covered by a reef, which forms a good liarbour; and the land about it is very fertile. We made this route partly on foot, ami partly in thu boat : when wc had walked about three miles, wo arrived at a place where we saw several largo canoes, and a numljor of pcoide with them, whom wo were agreeably surprised to find were of our intimate ac(|uiiintance. Here, with much dilhculty, we i)rocmcd some cocoa-nuts, and then embarked, taking with us Tuahow, one of the Indians who had waited for ns at AVaheatua's, and had returned the night before, long after it was dark. When we canio abreast of the south-east en♦ -dvert. soon as the boat returned, wc got our breakfast, and were impatient to leave the jdaco lomc other vexatious accident should befall ns. It is situated on the north side of Tiarrabou, tho south east peninsula, or division, of the island, and at the distance of about five miles south-east from the isthmus, having a large and commodious harbour, inferior to n(»ne in the island ; about which the land is very rich in prodnce. Notwithstanding wc had had little communication with this division, the inhabitants cvcrywhero received us in a friendly manner. "Wo found the whole of it fertile and populous, and, to all appearance, in a more flourishing state than Opourconu, though it is not above one-fourth part as large. The next district in which wo landed was the last in Tiarrabou, and governed by a chief, whoso name we understood to be O.moe. Omoe was building a house, and being therefore very desirous of procuring a hatchet, he would have been glad to have purchased one with anything that ho had in his jjossession ; it happened, however, rather unfortunately for him and us, that we had not one hatchet left in the boat. We offered to trade with nails, but ho would not part with anything in exchange for them ; wo therefore reimbarkod, and put off our boat, but the chief being unwilling to relinquish all hope of obtaining something from U3 that would be of use to him, embarked in a canoe, with bis wife Whannoouda, and followed us. After some time, we took them into the boat ; and when we had rowed about a league, they desired wc would put ashore. We immediately complied with his request, and found some of his people, who had brought down a very largo hog. Wo were as imwiliing to loso the bog as the chief was to part with us, and it was indeed worth the best axe we had in the ship; wc therefore hit upf)u an expedient, and told him, that if ho would bring his hog to the fort at Matavai, the Indian name for Port Itoyal bay, he should have a large axe, and a nail into the bargain, for his trouble. To this proposal, after having consulted with his wife, he agreed, and gave us a large piece of his country cloth as a pledge that he would perform Lis agreement, which, however, he never did. Junk, 17art8 which it is their custom to paint or stain, and upon tlie head, where there was to ho a representation of hair. I'pon the Iieatl also wen? four ])rotuherances, three in front and ono behind, which we sliould have ealleilc of stone-work, raised pyraniidically upon an oblong base, or square, two hundred and sixty-seven feet long, and eighty-seven wide. It was built like the small pyramidal mounts upon which wc sometimes fix the pillar of a sun-dial, where each side is a flight of steps ; the steps, however, at the sides, wero broader than those iit the ends, so that it terminated not in a squiirc of the same figure with the base, but in a ridge, like the roof of a house. There were eleven of these stejjs, each of il COOK'S FiiisT \ovA(;i-: uor'xn tiiF': \vr)RM). Jink, 1701). I' I wliic'li wi\< fiMir f( ft lii;^li. ^-o tli.it tlw lui^'lit of the j>ilf was f(irty-fi)iir fi-vt : racli sti-p wiis Innm (I of one ('(iiiisi' of wliitr 1 al .«twing in it, notwithstanding the pavement, several (»f the trees which they call /.Vw/, and plantains. About an hundred yards to the west of this building was another paved area or court, in which were several small stagi.-s raised on wooden pillars, about seven feet high, which arc called by the Indians Ktratlds, and seem to be a kind of altars, as upon these are placed provisions of all kinds as ofl'erings to their gods. A\'e have since seen w lude hogs placed njion them ; and we found here the skulls of above fifty, besides the skulls of a great number of dogs. The principal object of ambition among these people is to have a magnificent morai, and this was a striking memorial of the rank and power of Oberea. It has been remarked that ■we did not find her invested with tho same authority that she exercised when the Dolphin •was at this place, and we now learnt the reason of it. Our way from her house to the morai lay along the sea-side, and we observed everywhere under our feet a great number of human bones, cliieflyrihs and vertebrte. Upon inquiring into the cause of so singular an appearance, wc were told that in the then last month of Oinini/iew, which answered to our December I7WJ, about four or five months before our arrival, the people of Tiarrabou, the S. E. penin- sula which we had just visited, made a descent at this jjlacc, and killed a great number of jieople, whose hones were those that we saw npon the shore : that, upon this occasion, Oberea and ( )amo, who then administered the government for his son, had fled to the mountains ; and that the conquerors burnt all the houses, which were very large, and carried away tho hogs, and wliat other animals they found. AVe learnt also that the turkey and goose, which we had seen when we were with 3Iathiabo. the stealer of cloaks, were among the spoils : this accounted for their being found among people with whom the Dolphin had little or no communication ; and upon mentioning the jaw-bones, which wo liad seen hanging from a board in a long house, we were told that they also had been carried away as trophies, tho ])eoplc here carrying away the jaw-bones of their enemies as tho Indians of North America do the scalps. After having thus gratified our curiosity we returned to our quarters, where we passed tho night in perfect security and quiet. By tho next evening we arrived at Atahourou, tho residence of our friend Tootahah, where, tho last time we passed tho night under his pro- tection, we had heen obliged to leave the best part of our clothes behind us. This adventure, however, seemed now to bo forgotten on both sides. Our friends received us with great pleasure, and gave us a good supper and a good lodging, where wo suffered neither loss nor disturbance. k I^^ .Ji IV, I7<>!>. (OOKS MUSI' \oV.\<;K IKUJND TIIK UtHlM». 19 Tlif next il;iy, SiitiKday ■h\W tl.i- l«t, Wf ;.'(>t li.ick to t)iir fort at Mataviii, liaviii;» foiin.l till' rin nit of llif islaiul, inclisiiin^ Iniili |iiiiiii-i> months : thi" acionnttd for onr having' ht'fii alilo to procure mo littio of it in onr -oute. While the hreail-fruit is riiteninj,' upon tlie llatM, the inhahitants aro supplied in some ineasnre from the trees whieii tliey have planted upon the hills to preaervo a Hucerssion ; hut the ipiantity is nut snllieient to prevent scarcity : tliey 'i .e, therefore, upon the four )i.i>te, wliicli they call Mt(/ii>\, upon w ihl )ilantains and ahet- nuts, whieli at this timu are in perfection. IIuw it happened that tiu* Dolphin, which was lieru at this Ncasoii, found sucli plenty of broad-fruit upon the trees I cannot tell, cxuepi i'.io season in which they ripen Vfries. At our return our Iiulian friends crowded about us, and none of them caiuc empty-handed. Tliou^di 1 had determined to restore tlie canoes wliich had been detained to tliiir owners, it bad not yet been done ; but I now released them as they were a])p!ied ftir. I'pon thia occasion I could not but remark with coueern that tin se people were cajialde of practisiii^r petty frauds against each other, with a deliberate dishonesty, wliidi gave ine a luneh worse ()])inion of them than I liad ever entertained from the robberies they committed, under the strong tein]itati(m to which a sudden opportunity of enriehing themselves with the inesti- mable metal and mamifactuies ot Jiurope exjMtseil them. Among others who applied to ine for the release of a canoe, was one I'oi.vTTow, a man of some consequence, well known to us all. I consented, .svipposing the V'ss^'l to be his own, orth.at he ap])Iied on the behalf of a friend : he went immediately to the beach, and took j)ossession of one of the boats, which, with the assistaneo of his people, he began to carry off. I'pon this, however, it was eagerly claimed by the right owners, who, si pjjorted by the otuer Indians, clamorously reproached bini for invading tlieir property, and prepared to take the canoe from him by force. Vpou this he desired to be beard, and told them that the canoe did, indeeil, once beloug to tboso who claimetl it ; but that I, having seized it as a forfeit, bad sold it to him for a pig. This silenced the clamour : the owners, knowing that from my power there was no appeal, acquiesced ; anade after them of the Indians, who frank'y told us that they did not intend to return, and had taken refuge in the moimtains, whore it was impossible for our people to find them. They were then requested to assist in the search, and after some deliberation, two of them undertook to conduct such persons as I should think pro]>er to send after them to the ])lace of their retreat. As they were known to be without arms, I thought two would be sufllicicnt,[and accordingly despatched a petty officer, and the corporal of the marines, with the Indian guides, to fetch them back. As the recovery of these men was a matter of great importance, as I had no time to lose, and as the Indians spoke doubtfully of their return, telling us, that they had each of them taken a wife, and were become inhabitants of the country, it was intimated to several of the chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom were Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be permitted to leave it till our deserters were brought back. This precaution I thought the more necessary, as, by concealing them a few days, they might comjiel me to go without them ; and I had the ])leasure to observe that they received the intimation with very little signs either of fear or discontent ; assuring me that my ])eojde should be secured and sent back as soon as possible. AVhilc this was doing at the fort, I sent Mr. I licks in the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the ship, which he did, without alarming either him or his people. If the Indian guides proved faithful and in earnest, I had reason to expect the return of my people with the deserters before evening. Being disappointed, my suspicions increased ; and night coming on, I thought it was not safe to let the people whom I had detained as hostages continue at the fort, and I therefore ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea, and some others, to be taken on board the ship. This spread a general alarm, and several of them, especially the women, expressed their apprehensions with great emotion and many tears when they were put into the boat. I went on board with them, and Mr. Banks remained on shore, with some others whom I thought it of less consequence to secure. About nine o'clock, Webb was brought back by some of the natives, who declared that Gibson, and the petty officer and corporal, would be detained till Tootahah should be set at liberty. The tables were now turned upon me ; but I bad proceeded too far to retreat. I immediately despatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong party of men, to rescue the prisoners, and told Tootahah that it behoved him to send some of his people with them, with orders to affiird them effectual assistance, and to demand the release of my men in his name, for that I should expect him to answer for the contrary. He readily complied : this party recovered my men without the least opposition ; and about seven o'clock in the morning returned with them to the ship, though they had not been able to recover the arms which had been taken from them when they were seized : these, however, were brought on board in less than half an hour, and the chiefs were immediately set at liberty. When I questioned tiic petty officer concerning what had happened on shore, he told me, that neither the natives who went with him, nor those whom they met in their way, would give them any intelligence of the deserters ; but, on the contrary, became very troublesome : that, as he was returning for further orders to the ship, he and his comrade were suddenly seized by a number of armed men, who having learnt that Tootahah was confined, had concealed themselves in a wood for that purpose, and who, having taken them at a disadvantage, forced their weapons out of their hands, and declared that they would detain them till their chief should be set at liberty. He said, however, that the Indians were not unanimous in this measure ; that some were for setting them at liberty, and others for detaining them ; (hat an eager dispute ensued, and that from words they came to blows, but that the party for detaining them at length prevailed ; that soon after Webb and Gibson were brought in by a party of the natives, as prisoners, that they also might bo secured jiiA", \:c,i). COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE U'ORLD. as lio-tagi's for tlic chief ; but tliat it was, after some debate, resolved to seiu! "Webb to inform ine of tiieir resobition, to assure mo that bis comi)aiiion3 were safe, and direct mo wbiTo 1 might send my answer. Tbns it appears, that, wliatever were the disadvantages of seizin"' the chiefs, I sbonhl never have recovered my men by any otlier method. When the cliiefs were set on shore from the ship, those at tlie fort were also set at liberty, and, after staying with Mr. Banks about an hour, they ail went away. Upon this occasion, as til' y had done ui)on another of the same kind, they expressed their joy by an undeserved liberality, (-trongly "rging us to accept of four hogs. These wo absolutely refused as a present, and they as absolutely refusing to be paid for them, the hogs did not change masters. Tpon examining the desertei-s, we found that the account which the Indians had given of them was true : they had strongly attached themselves to two girls, and it was their intention to conceal themselves till the ship had sailed, and take up their residence upon the island. This night everything was got oflF from the shore, and everybody slept on board. Among the natives who were almost constantly with us, was Tnjjia, whose name has been often mentioned in this narrative. lie had been, as I have before observed, the first minister of Obcrca, when she was in the height of her ])ower : ho was also the chief Taliowa or ])ricst of the island, consequently well acquainted with the religion of the country, as well with respect to its ceremonies as principles. lie had also great experience and knowledge in navigation, and was particularly acquainted with the number and situation of the neighbouring islands. This man bad often expressed a desire to go with us, and on the )2th in the morning, having, with the other natives, left us the day before, he came on board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, his servant, and urged us to let him proceed ■with us on our voyage. To have such a person on board was certainly desirable, for many reasons ; by learning his language, and teaching him ours, we should be able to acquire a much better knowledge of the customs, policy, and religion of the people, than our short stay among them could give ns ; I therefore gladly agreed to receive them on board. As we were )>revcnted from sailing to-day, by having found it necessary io make new stocks to our small and best bower anchors, the old ones having been totally destroyed by the worms, Tnpia said, be would go once more on shore, and make a signal for the boat to fetch him off in tho evening, lie went accordingly, and took with him a miniature picture of Mr, Danks, to show his friends, and several little things to give them as parting presents. After dinner, JSIr. Danks being desirous to procure a drawing of the IMorai belonging to Tootahah at Eparre, I attended him thither, accompanied by Dr. Solander, in the pinnace. As soon as we landed, many of our friends came to nv < us, though some absented them- selves in resentment of what had happened the day beiure. "We immediately proceeded to Tootahah's house, where we were joined by Oberea, with several others who had not come ont to meet us, and a perfect reconciliation was soon brought about ; in consequence of which they promised to visit us early the next day, to take a last farewell of us, as we told them we should certainly set sail in the afternoon. At this place also we found Tupia, who returned with us, and slept this night on board the ship for the first time. On the next morning, Thursday the 13th of July, the ship was very early crowded with our friends, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes, which were filled with the natives of an inferior class. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor, and as soon as the ship was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something very striking and tender: the people in the canoes, on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in the loudness of their lamentations, which we c(msidercd rather as affectation than grief. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a firmness and resolution truly admirable : he wept, indeed, but the effort that he made to conceal his tears concurred with them to do him honour. He sent his last present, a shirt, by Otheothea, tc I'otomai, Tootahah's favourite mistress, and then went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, waving to the canoes as long as they continued in sight. Thus we took leave of Otaheite, and its inhabitants, after a stay of just three months ; for much the greater part of the time we lived together in the most cordial friendship, and a perpetual reciprocation of good offices. The accidental differences which now and then happened could not be more sincerely regretted on their part than they were on ours : the 78 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. July, 1709. principal raiiscs were such as necessarily resulted from our situntiou and circuniBtanccs, in conjunction with the infimiitica of human nature, from our not being able perfectly to understand each other, and from the disposition of the inhabitants to theft, whicli we could not at all times bear with or prevent. They had not, however, except in one instance, been attended witli any fatal consequence ; and to tliat accident were owing the measures that I took to prevent others of the same kind. I hoped, indeed, to have availed myself of tho impression whicli had been made upon them by tho lives that had hv^a sacrificed in their contest with the Dolphin*, so as that the intercourse between us should have been carried on wholly without bloodshed ; and by this hope all my measures were directed during tho whole of my continuance at the island ; and I sincerely wish, that whoever shall next visit it may be still more fortunate. Our traffic here was carried on with as much order as in the best regulated market in Europe. It was managed principally by Mr. Banks, who was indefatigable in procuring provisions and refreshments while they were to be had ; but during the latter part of our time they became scarce, partly by the incrcatsed consumption at the fort and ship, and partly by the coming on of the season in which cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit fail. All kind of fruit wc purchased for beads and nails ; but no nails loss than fortypenny were current : after a very short time we could never get a i>ig of more than ten or twelve pounds for less than a hatchet ; because, though these people set 7i to be vvithin half a degree of the truth. Wo found Point Venus, the northern extremity of the island, and the eastern point of the bay, to lie in the longitude of 149" 13', this being the mean result of a great number of observa- tions made upon the spot. The iisLind is surrounded by a reef of coral rock, which forms several excellent bays and harbours, some of which have been particularly described, where there is room and depth of water for any number of the largest ships. Port- Royal bay, called, by the natives, Matavai, which is not inferior to any in Otaheite, may easily be known by a very high mountain in the middle of the island, which bears due south from Point Venus. To sail into it, either keep the west point of the reef that lies before Point Venus close on board, or give it a berth of near half a mile, in order to avoid a small shoal of coral rocks, on which there is but two fathom and a half of %vater. The best anchoring is on the eastern side '^.f the bay, where there is sixteen and fourteen fathom upon an oozy bottom. The shore of the bay is a fine sandy beach, behind which runs a river of fresh v.'atcr, so that any number of sliips may water here without incommoding each other ; but vhe only wood for firing, upon the whole island, is that of fruit-trees, which must be pur- chased of the natives, or all hope of living upon good terms with them given up. There are some harbours to the westward of this bay, which have not been mentioned ; but, as they arc, contiguous to it, and laid down in the map, a description of them is unnecessary. The face of the country, except that part of it which borders upon the sea, is very uneven ; it rises in ridges that run up into the middle of tho island, and there form moun- tains, which may bo seen at the distance of sixty miles : between tho foot of these ridges • This happcncJ on Captain W. iis's aniv.il, and was attended with cuneidciaLIc loss to the natives, upon whom the bhip's guns were rcpi-atedl}' lircd. — Ed. JiLv, 1700. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 79 and tlio sea is a borJor of low land, surrounding the whole island, except in a few ])lacc8 where the ridgos rise directly from the sea : the border of low hind is in different jiarts of different breadths, but nowhere more than a mile and a half. The soil, except upon the very tops of the ridges, ia extremely rich and fertile, watered by a great number of rivulets of excellent water, and covered witli fruit-trees of various kinds, some of which are of a stately growth and thick foliage, so as to form one continued wood ; and even the tops of the ridges, though in general they arc bare, and burnt up by the sun, are, in some parts, not without their produce. The low laud tliat lies between the foot of the ridges and the sea, and some of the valleys, are the only parts of the inland that are inluibited, and here it is populous : the houses do not form villages or towns, but are ranged along the whole border at the distance of about fifty yards from each other, with little plantations of plantains, and the tree which furnishes them with cloth. The whole island, according to Tupia'a account, who certainly knew, could furnish six thousand seven hundred and eighty lighting men, from which the number of inhabitants may easily bo computed. The produce of this island is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, of thirteen sorts, the best •we had ever eaten ; plantains ; a fruit not unlike an apple, which, wiien ripe, is very pleasant ; sweet potatoes, yams, cocoas, a kind of Arum ; a fruit known here by the name of Jamlu, and reckoned most delicious ; sugar-cane, which the inhabitants eat raw ; a root of the Salop kind, called by the inhabitants Pea ; a plant called Ethee, of which the root only is eaten ; a fruit that grows in a pod, like that of a large kidney-bean, which, when it is roasted, eats very much like a chesnut, by the natives called Ahee ; a tree called Jf'/iarra, called in the East Indies Vandanes, which produces fruit, something like the i>ine-api)le ; a shrub called Nono ; the Morhida, which also produces fruit ; a species of fern, of which tho root is eaten, and sometimes the leaves ; and a plant called Thcve, of which the root also is eaten : but the fruits of tho Nono, the fern, and the Theve, are eaten only by the inferior people, and in times of scarcity. All these, which serve the inhabitants for food, the earth produces spontaneously, or with so little culture, that they seem to be exempted from tho first general curse, that " man should cat his bread in the sweat of his brow." They have also the Chinese paper mulberry. Mortis papi/rl/cra, which they call Aoula ; a tree resem- bling the wild fig-tree of the West Indies ; another species of fig, which they call Matte ; tho Cordia sck'nthia orientalis, which they call Etou ; a kind of Cyperus grass, which they call Moo ; a species of Tournefortia, which they call Taheinoo ; another of the Convoleuhia j>oluce, which they call Eurhe ; the Solanum ccnt'ifolium, which they call Ehooa ; the Calo- phiillnni mophylum, which they call Tamannu ; the Hiblscug tiliacetis, called Pocrott, a frutescent nettle ; the Urtica ar^entea, called Erotra ; with many other plants which cinnot here be particularly mentioned : those that have been named already will be referred to in the subsequent part of this work. They have no European fruit, garden stuff, pulse, or legumes, nor grain of any kind. Of tiime animals they have only hogs, dogs, and poultry ; neither is there a wild animal in the island, except ducks, pigeons, paroquets, with a few other birds, and rats, there being no other quadruped, nor any serpent. But the sea supplies them with great variety of most excellent fish, to cat whicli is their chief luxury^ and to catch it their principal labour. As to the people, they are of the largest sizo of Europeans. The men are tall, strong, well-limbed, and finely shaped. The tallest that we saw wiis a man upon a neighbouring island, called Huaiieine, who measured six feet three inches and a half. The women of tho superior rank are also in general above our middle stature, but those of the inferior class arc rather below it, and some of them are very small. This defect in size probably proceeds from their early commerce with men, tho only thing in which they differ from their supe- riors that could possibly affect their growth. Their natural complexion is that kind of clear olive, or brHiietlc, which many people in Europe prefer to the finest white and red. In those that are exposed to tho wind and sun, it is considerably deepened, but in others that live under shelter, especially the superior chss of women, it continues of its native hue, and the skin is most delicately smooth and soft : they havo no tint in their cheeks which we distinguish by the name of colour. The shape of the face is comely, the cheek-bones \f\ 80 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE AVORI.P. Ji i,Y, 17C9. «• . IIR.(D or UTAIIFIT;IN WOMAN. arc not liigli, neither arc tlic eyes hollow, nor the brow prominent : the only feature that (Iocs not correspond with onr ideas of beauty is the nose, which, in general, is somewhat flat ; but their eyes, especially those of the women, arc full of expression, sometimes sparkliiiLT with fire, and sometimes melting with softness ; their teeth also are, almost without exception, most beairtifully even and white, and their breath perfectly without taint. Tlie hair is almost universally black, and rather coarse : the men have beards, which they wear in many fashions, always, how- ever, plucking out great part of them, and keeping the rest perfectly clean and neat. I$otli sexes also eradicate every hair from under their arms, and accused us of great uncleanli- ness for not doing tlie same. In their motions there is at once vigour and ease ; their walk is graceful, their deportment liberal, and their behaviour to strangers and to each other affable and courteous. In their dispositions, also, they seemed to be brave, open, and candid, without either suspicion or treachery, cru>;lty or revenge ; so that we placed the same confidence in them as in our best friends, many of ns, particularly Mr. Banks, sleeping frequently in their houses in the woods, with- out a companion, and consequently wholly in their power. They were, however, all thieves ; and when that is allowed, they need not much fear a competition with the people of any other nation upon earth. During our stay in this island, we saw about five or six persons, like cue that was met by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander on the 24th of April, in their walk to tlic eastward, whose skins were of a dead white, like the nose of a white horso ; with white hair, beard, brows, and eye-lashes ; red, tender eyes ; a short sight, and scurfy skins, covered with a kind of white down ; but we found that no two of these belonged to the same family, and therefore concluded, that they were not a species, but unhappy indivi- duals, rendered anomalous by disease. It is a custom in moat countries where the inhabitants have long hair, for the men to cut it short, and the women to pride themselves in its length. Here, however, the contrary custom prevails ; the women always cut it short round their ears, and the men, except the fishers, who are almost continually in the water, suffer it to flow in largo waves over their shoulders, or tie it up in a bunch on the top of their heads. They have a custom, also, of anointing their heads with what they call Monoe, an oil expressed from the cocoa-nut, in which some sweet herbs or flowers have been infused : as the oil is generally rancid, the smell is at first very disagreeable to a European ; and as they live in a hot country, and have no such thing as a comb, they arc not able to keep their heads free from lice, which the children and common people sometimes pick out and eat : a hateful custom, wholly different from their manners in every other particular ; for they are delicate and cleanly almost without example ; and those to whom we distributed combs soon delivered them- selves from vermin, with a diligence which showed that they were not more odious to us than to them. They have a custom of staining their bodies, nearly in the same manner as is practised in many other parts of the world, which they call Tatlowing. They prick the skin, so as just not to fetch blood, with a small instrument, something in the form of a hoc ; that part which answers to the blade is made of a hone or shell, scraped very thin, and is from a quarter of an inch to an inch and a half wide ; the edge is cut into sharp teeth or points, from the number of three to twenty, according to its size : when this is to be used, they dip the teeth into a mixture of a kind of lamp-black, formed of the smoke that rises from an oily nut which they burn Instead of candles, and water; the teeth, thus prepared, are JuLv,17(J9. COOK'S FIRST VOY.r.E ROUND THE WORLD. 81 placed upon the skin, and the liandle to which they are fastened being struck, by quick smart blows, with a stick fitted to the purpose, they pierce it, and at the same time carry into the puncture the black composition, wliich leaves an indelible stain. The operation is painful, and it is some days before the wounds are healed. It is performed upon the youth of both sexes when they are about twelve or fourteen years of age, on several parts of tho body, and in various figures, according to the fancy of the parent, or perhaps the rank of tJie party. Tlio women are generally marked with this stain, in the form of a Z, on every joint of their fingers and toes, and frequently round the outside of their feet : the men arc also marked with tho same figure, and both men and women have squares, circles, crescents, and ill-designed representations of men, birds, or dogs, and various other devices impre^^8cd upon their legs, and arms, some of which, we are told, had significations, though we could never learn what they were. But the part on which these ornaments arc lavished with tho greatest profusion is tho breech : this, in both sexes, is covered with a deep black ; abovo which, arches aro drawn one over another as high as the short ribs. They are often a quarter of an inch broad, and the edges are not straight lines, but indented. These arches are their pride, and aro shown both by men and women with a mixture of ostentation and ])lea8uro ; whetiier as an ornament, or a proof of their fortitude and resolution in bearing pain, wo could not determine. The face in general is left immarked : for we saw but ono instance to the contrary. Some old men had the greatest part of their bodies covered v ith large patches of black, deeply indented at the edges, like a rude imitation of flame ; but we were told, that they came from a low island, called Noouoora, and were not natives of OtJihcite. Mr. Banks saw the operation of tattotcUiff performed upon the biickside of a girl about thirteen years old. The instrument used upon this occasion had thirty teeth, and every stroke, of which at least a hundred were made in a minute, drew an ichor or serum a little tinged with blood. The girl bore it with most stoical resolution for about a quarter of an hour ; but the pain of so many hundred punctures as she had received in that time tlieu became intolerable : she first complained in murmurs, then wept, and at last burst into loud lamentations, earnestly imploring the opi-rator to desist. He was, however, inexorable ; and when she began to struggle, she was held down by two women, who sometimes soothed and Sometimes chid her, and now and then, when she was most unruly, gave her a smart blow. ]\Ir. Banks staid in a neighbouring house an hour, and the operation was not over when he went away ; yet it was performed but upon one side, the other having been done some time before ; and the arches upon the loins, in which they most pride themselves, and which give more pain than all the rest, were still to be done. It is strange tliat these people should value themselves upon what is no distinction ; for I never saw a native of this island, either man or woman, in a state of maturity, in whom these marks were wanting : possibly they may have their rise in superstition, especially as they produce no visible advantage, and are not made without great pain ; but though we inquired of many hundreds, we could never get any account of the matter. Their clothing consists of cloth or matting of different kinds, which will be described among their other ma- nufactures. The cloth which will not bear wetting they wear in dry wea- ther, and the matting when it rains : they are put on in many different ways, jusi as their fancy leads them; for in their garments nothing is cut into shape, nor are any two pieces sewed together. The dress of the better sort of women consists of three or four pieces : one piece, about two yards wide, and eleven yards long, they wrap several times round their waist, so as to hang down like a ]>et- ticoat as low as tho middle of the leg. »■"#■ *: '■■M \ V i .... ^fi- ^mm MAT-WORK TIPPKT OF A rillFF. 02 COOK'S FIKST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. July, 1769. and this tlicy call Paroii : two or tliroe otiicr pieces, about two yards and a half long, and one wide, each having a h»>lo cut in the middle, they place one upon another, and then putting the head through the lioles, they bring the long ends down before and behind ; the others remain open at the sides, and give liberty to tlic arms : this, wliich they call the Ti'bittd, is gatlicred round the waii^t, and confined with a girdle or sash of thinner cloth, which is long enough to go many times round them, and exactly resembles the garment worn by the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, wliich the Spaniards call Poncho. The dress of the men is the same, except that, instead of suffering the cloth that is wound about the hips to hang down like a petticoat, they bring it between their legs so as to have some resem- blance to breeches, and it is then called Muro. This is the dre&s of all ranks of people, and being universally the same as to form, the gentlemen and ladies distinguish themselves from the lower people by the quantity : some of them will wrap round them several pieces of cloth, eight or ten yards long, and two or three broad ; and some throw a large piece loosely over their shoulders, in the manner of a cloak ; or perhaps two pieces, if they are very great personages, and are desirous to appear in state. The inferior sort, who have only a small allowance of cloth from the tribes or families to which they belong, are obliged to be more thinly clad. In the heat of the day, they appear almost naked, the women having only a scanty petticoat, and the men nothing but tiic sash that is passed between their legs and fastened round the waist. As finery is always troublesome, and particularly in a hot country, where it consists in putting one covering upon another, the women of rank always uncover themselves as low as the waist in the evening, throwing off all that they wear on the upper part of the body, with the same negligence and ease as our ladies would lay by a cardinal or double handkerchief. And the chiefs, even when they visited us, though they had as much cloth round their middle as would clothe a dozen people, had frequently the rest of the body quite naked. i v SPKCIMENS OK C-J>PS. Upon their legs and feet, they wear no covering ; but they shade their faces from the 3un with little bonnets, either of matting or of cocoa-nut leaves, which they make occasionally in a few minutes. This, however, is not all their head-dress ; the women sometimes wear little turbans, and sometimes a dress which they value much more, and which, indeed, is much more becoming, called tonwu : the tomou consists of human hair, plaited in threads, scarcely thicker than sewing-silk. Mr. Banks has pieces of it above a mile in length, without a knot. These they wind round the head in such a manner as produces a very pretty effect, and in a very great quantity ; for I have seen five or six such pieces wound about the head of one woman : among these threads they stick flowers of various kinds, particularly the Cape-jessamine, of wliich they have great plenty, as it is always planted near their houses. Tiie men sometimes stick the tail-feather of the tropic-bird upright in their hair, which, as I have observed before, is often tied in a bunch upon the top of their heads : sometimes they wear a kind of whimsical garland, made of flowers of various kinds, stuck into a piece of the rind of a plantain ; or of scarlet peas, stuck with gum upon a piece 1769. July, 1709. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. U3 MANTLE OK A CHIEF. of wood : and sometimes tliey wear a kind of wig, made of tiie hair of men or dogs, or perlia|)9 of cocoa-nut strings, woven upon one thread, wliicli is tied under their hair, so that these artificial honours of their Ijead may hang down beliiiid. Tlieir personal ornaments, be^iides flowers, arc few ; both sexes wear ear-rings, hut they aro placed only on one side : when wo came tliey consisted of small pieces of shell, stone, berries, red peas, or some small pearls, three in a string ; but our beads very soon supplanted them all. The children go quite naked : the girls till they are three or four years old ; and the boys till they are six or seven. The 1 (uses, or rather dwellings, of these people have been occasionally mentioned before : they are all built in the wood between tiie sea and the mountains, and no more ground is cleared for each house tlian just sufficient to pre- vent the dropping of the branches from rotting the thatch with which they are covered ; from the house, therefore, the inhabitant steps immediately under the shade, which is the most delightful that can he imagined. It consists of groves of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, without underwood, which arc intersected, in all directions, by the paths that lead from one house to the other. Nothing can be more grateful than this shade in so warm a climate, nor anything more beautiful than these walks. As there is no underwood, the shade cools without impeding the air ; and the houses having no walls, receive the gale from whatever point it blows. I shall now give a particular desciiption of a house of a middling size, from which, as the structure is univcri^ally the same, a perfect idea may be formed both of those that are bigger and those that are less. The ground which it covers is an oblong square, four-and-twenty feet long, and eleven wide ; over this a roof is raised upon three rows of pillars or posts, parallel to each other, one on each side, and the other in the middle. Tliis roof consists of two flat sides inclining to each other, and terminating in a ridge, exactly like the roofs of our thatched houses in England. The utmost height within is about nine feet, and the caves on each side reach to within about three feet and a half of the ground : below this, and through the whole height, at each end, it is open, no part of it being inclosed with a wall. The roof is thatched with palm- leaves, and the floor is covered, some inches deep, with soft hay : over this are laid mats, so that the whole is one cushion, upon which they sit in the day and sleep in the night. In some houses, however, there is one stool, which is wholly appropriated to the master of the family ; besides this, they have no furniture, except a few little blocks of wood, the upper side of which is hollowed into a curve, and which serves them for pillows. The house is indeed principally used as a dormitory ; for, except it rains, they cat in tho open air, under the shade of the next tree. Tiie clothes that they wear in the day serve them for covering in the night : the floor is the common bed of the whole household, and is not divided by any partition. The master of the house and his wife sleep in the middle, next to them the married people, next to them the unmarried women, and next to them, at a little distance, the unmarried men : the servants, or toiitous, as they are called, sleep in tho open air, except it rains ; and in Uiat case tiioy come just within the shade. There are, however, houses of another kind belonging to the chiefs, in which there is some degree of privacy. These are much smaller, and so constructed as to be carried about in their canoes from place to place, and set up occasionally like a tent : they are inclosed on the sides with cocoa-nut leaves, but not so close as to exclude the air; and the chief and his wife sleep in them alone. There are houses also of a much larger size, not built cither for tho accommodation of a single chief or a single family ; but as common receptacles for all g2 M COOK'S FIIIST VOYAOE ROUND THE WORLD. .I11.Y, 1700. the people of a district. Some of them are two Iiundroil foot long, tliirty broail, and, under the ridge, twenty feet liigli : these are built and maintained at the common expense uf the district, for the accommodation of which they arc intended ; and have un one side of them a large area, inclosed with low iialisadoes. INTRHlun OF A POLVNKilUN IIOUSF. HI? These houses, like those of separate families, have no walls. Privacy, indeed, is little wanted among people who have not even the idea of indecency, and who gratify every appetite and passion before witnesses with no more scnsi of impropriety than we feel when we satisfy our hunger at a social board with our family or friends. Those who have no idea of indecency with respect to actions, can have none with respect to words ; it is, there- fore, scarcely necessary to observe that in the conversation of these people, that which is the principal source of their pleasure is always the principal topic ; and that every- thing is mentioned without any restraint or emotion, and in the most direct terms, by both sexes. Of the food eaten here the greater part is vegetable. Here are no tame animals except hogs, dogs, and poultry, as I have observed before, and these are by no means plenty. When a chief kills a hog, it is almost equally divided among his dependants ; and, as they are very numerous, the share of each individual at these feasts, which are not frequent, must neces- sarily be small. Dogs and fowls fall somewhat more frequently to the share of the common people. I cannot much commend the flavour of their fowls ; but we all agreed that a South- sea dog was little inferior to an English Iamb : their excellence is probably owing to their being kept up, and fed wholly upon vegetables. The sea affords them a great variety of fish. The smaller fish, when they catch any, are generally eaten raw, as we eat oysters ; and nothing that the sea produces comes amiss to them : they are fond of lobsters, crabs, and other shell-fish, which are found upon the coast ; and they will eat not only sea-insects, but what the seamen call blubbers, though some of them are so tough, that they are obliged to suffer them to become putrid before they can be chewed. Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as serving them foi fcccl, the principal is the bread-fruit, to procure which costs them no trouble or labour but climbing a tree : the tree which produces it does JiLv, 17rocure), in the account of an entertainment jjfeparcd for ua by Tiipia. Iloga and large ii»repared ich to a ly of us ilbert : a hole liquor. which ains, he ced up int : he of the I knife makes as been pestle o time vessel mahic, !zing it ustard, a jelly if wo had no Rpoon to take it froiii the gla^s : the meal is then finished by again washing bis hands and his mouth. After which the cocoa-nut shells are cleaned, and everything that is left is replaced in the basket. The quantity of food which thc>«o people cat at a meal is pro'ligious : I have seen one man devour tw- or three fishes as big as a perch ; tlirec bread-fruita, each bigger tlian two fists ; fourteen or fifteen ])lantains or bananas, each of them six or seven inches long, and four or five round ; and near a quart «)f the ]>onnded bread-fruit, wliieh is as substantial aa the thickest unbaked custard. This is so extraordinary that I scarcely expect to be believed ; and I would not have related it upon my own single testimony; but 3Ir. Danks, Dr. Solander, and most of the other gentlemen, have had ocular demonstnition of its truth, and know that I mention them upon tlic occasion. It is very wonderful that these people, who are remarkably fond of society, and particularly that of their women, should exclude its pleasures from the tabic, where among all other nations, whether civil or savage, they have been principally enjoyed. How a meal, which everywhere else brings families and friends together, came to 8e|)arato them here, wo often inquired, but could never learn. Tiiey ate alone, they said, because it was right ; but why it was right to cat alone they never attempted to tell us : such, however, was the force of habit, that they expressed the strongest dislike, and even disgust, at our eating in society, especially with our women, and of the sanic victuals. At first, we thought this strange singularity arose from some superstitious opinion ; but they constantly affirmed the contrary. We observed also some caprices in the custom, for which wo could as little account as for the custom itself. Wo could never prevail with any of the women to partake of the victuals at our table when we were dining in company; yet they would go, five or six together, into the servants' apartments, and there eat very heartily of whatever they could find, of which I have before given a particular instance ; nor were they in tho least disconcerted if we came in while they were doing it. When any of us have been alone with a woman, she has sometimes eaten in our company; but then she has expressed the greatest unwillingness that it should be known, and always extorted the strongest promises of secrecy. Among themselves, even two brothers and two sisters have each their separate baskets with provision and the apparatus of their meal. When they first visited us at our tents, each brought his basket with him ; and when we sat down to table, they would go out, sit down upon the ground, at two or three yards' distance from each other, and turning their faces different ways, take their repast without interchanging a single word. The women not only abstain from eating with the men, and of the same victuals, but even have their victuals separately prepared by boys kept for that purpose, wlio deposit it in a separate shed, and attend them with it at their meals. But though they would not cat with us or with each other, they have often asked us to cat with them, when wo have visited those with whom we were particularly acquainted at their houses ; and wo have often upon such occasions eaten out of the same basket, and drunk out of the same cup. The elder women, however, always appeared to be offended at this liberty; and if we happened to touch their victuals, or even the basket that contained it, would throw it away. After meals, and in the heat of the day, the middle-aged people of the better sort generally sleep : they are, indeed, extremely indolent ; and sleeping and eating is almost all that they do. Those that are older arc less drowsy, and tho boys and girls are kept awake by the natural activity and sprightliness of their age. Their amusements have occasionally been mentioned in my account of the incidents that happened during our residence in this inland, particularly music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow; they also sometimes vie with each other in throwing a lance. As shooting is not at a mark, but for distance ; throwing the lance is not for distance, but at a mark : the weapon is about nine feet long, the mark is the bole of a plantain, and the distance about twenty yards. Their only music.il instruments are flutes and drums ; the flutes are made of a hollow bamboo about a foot long, and, as has been observed before, have only two stops, and consequently but four notes, out of which they seem hitherto to have formed but one tune : to these stops they apply the fore finger of the left hand and the middle iinger of the right. 88 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. July, 1760. KLUTB AND DRUM PLAYEKS. The drum is made of a hollow block of wood, of a cylindrical form, solid at one end, and covered at the other with shark's akin : these they beat, not witli sticks, but their hands ; and they know how to tune two drums of different notes into concord. They have also an expedient to bring the flutes that play together into unison, which is to roll up a leaf so as to slip over the end of the shortest, like our sliding tubes for telescopes, which they move up or down till the purpose is answered, of wliich they seem to judge by their ear with great nicety. To these instruments they sing ; and, as I have observed before, their songs are often extempore : they call every two verses or couplet a song, felmy: they are generally, though not always, in rhyme ; and when pronounced by the natives, we could dis- cover that they were metre. Mr. Banks took great pains to write down some of them which were made upon our arrival, as nearly as he could express their sounds by combinations of our letters; but when we read them, not having their accent, we could The reader will easily perceive that they arc scarcely make them either metre or rliyme. of a scry dilTerent structure. Tcde pnhai dc parow-a I III iiiiiru no luiiia. E pnliiih Tuyo malnma tni ya Nn Tubauc tonatou wliannoini ya. E Tiiiui cattu terara patcc wliciinua to.ii liio o uiiiio Prctane to whcnnuaia no Tutc. Of tliese verses our knowledge of the language is too imperfect to attempt a translation. Tlicy frequently amuse themselves by singing such couplets as these when they are alone, or with their families, especially after it is dark ; for though they need no fires, they are not without the comfort of artificial light between sunset and bedtime. Their candles are made of the kernels of a kind of oily nut, which they stick one over another upon a skewer that is thrust through the middle of them ; the upper one being lighted, burns down to the second, at the same time consuming that part of the skewer which goes through it ; the second taking fire, burns in the same manner down to the third, and so of the rest : some of these candles will burn a considerable time, and they give a very tolerable light. They do not often sit up above an hour after it is dark ; but when they have strangers who sleep in the house, they generally keep a light burning all night, possibly as a check upon such of the women as they wish not to honour them with their fivvours. Of their itinerary concerts I need add nothing to what has been said already ; especially as I shiiU have occasion more particularly to mention them when I -elate our adventures upon another island. In other countries the girls and unmarried women are supposed to be wholly ignorant of what others upon some occasions may appear to know ; and their conduct and conversation are consequently restrained within narrower bounds, and kept at a more remote distance from whatever relates to a connexion with the other sex ; but here it is just contrary. Among other diversions, there is a dance, called timorodee, which is performed by young girls, whenever eight or ten of them can be collected together, consisting of motions and gestures beyond imagination wanton, in the practice of which they are brought up from their earliest childhood, accompanied by words which, if it were possible, would more Ji i-v, 17G9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, 8!) oxpliciitly convey the same ideas. In these dances they keep time with an exactness which U scarcely excelled by the best performers upon tlio stages of Europe. But the practice which is allowed to the virgin is prohibited to the woman from the moment that she has put these hopeful lessons in practice, and realized the symbols of the dance. It cannot be supposed that, among these people, chastity is held in much estimation. It might be expected that sisters and daughters would be offered to strangers, either as a courtesy or for reward ; and that breaches of conjugal fidelity, even in the wife, should not be otherwise punished than by a few hard words, or perhaps a slight beating, as indeed is the case ; but there is a scale in dissolute sensuality, which these people have ascended, wholly unknown to every other nation wiiose manners have been recorded from the beginning of the world to the present hour, and which no imagination could possibly conceive. A very considerable number of the principal people of Otaheite, of both sexes, have formed themselves into a society, in which every woman is common to every man ; -.hus securing a perpetual variety as often as their inclination prompts them to seek it, which is so frequi t, that the same man and woman seldom cohabit together more than two or three days. These societies are distinguished by the name oi Arrcoy ; and the members have meetings, at which no other is present, where the men amuse themselves by wrestling, and the women, notwithstanding their occasional connexion with different men, dance the timorodec in all its latitude, as an incitement to desires which it is said are frequently gratified upon the spot. This, however, is comparatively nothing. If any of tiie women happen to be with child, which in this manner of life happens less frequently than if they were to cohabit only with one man, the poor infant is smoi.liered the moment it is born, that it may be no incumbrance to the father, nor interrupt the mother in the pleasures of her diabolical l)rostitution. It sometimes indeed happens, that the passion which prompts a woman to enter into this society is surmounted when she becomes a mother, by that instinctive affection which nature has given to all creatures for the preservation of their offspring ; but even in this case she is not permitted to spare the life of her infant, except she can find a man who will patronise it as his child ; if this can be done the murder is prevented ; but both the man and woman, being deemed by this act to have appropriated each other, are ejected from the community, and forfeit all claim to the privileges and pleasures of the Arreoy for the future ; the woman from ^.iiat time being distinguished by the term W/iannotcnoir>, " bearer of children," which is here a term of reproach ; though none can be more honourable in the estimation of wisdom and humanity, of right reason, and every passion that distin- guishes the man from the brute. It is not fit that a practice so horrid and so strange should be imputed to lur an beings upon slight evidence, but I have such as abundantly justifies me in the account I have given. The people themselves are so far from concealing their connexion with such a society as a disgrace, that they boast of it as a privileg-? ; and both myself and Mr. Banks, when particular persons have been pointed out to us as members of the Arreoy, have questioned them about it, and received the account that has been here given from their own lips. They have acknowledged that they had long been of this accursed society, that they belonged to it at that time, and that several of their children had been put to death. But I must not conclude my account of the domestic life of these people without mentioning their personal cleanliness. If that which lessens the good of life and increases the evil is vice, surely cleanliness is a virtue : the want of it tends to destroy both beauty and health, and mingles disgust with our best pleasures. The natives of Otaheite, both men •ind women, constantly wash their whole bodies in running water three times every day ; once as soon as they rise in the morning, once at noon, and again before they sleep at night, whether the sea or river is near them or at a distance. I have already observed that they wash not only the mouth but the hands at their meals, almost between every morsel ; and their clothes, as well as their persons, arc kept without spot or stain ; so that in a largo company of these people nothing is suffered but heat, which, perhaps, is more than can bo said of the politest assembly in Europe. ■■■ 00 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. July, 1"69. CHAPTER XVIII. OP THE MANUFACTCBES, BOATS, AND NAVIGATION OP OTAHEITE. Ip necessity is the mother of invention, it cannot be supposed to liavc been much exerted wliere the liberality of Nature has rendered the diligence of Art almost superfluous ; yet there are many instances both of ingenuity and labour among these people, which, considering the want of metal for tools, do honour to both. Their principal manufacture is their cloth, in the making and dyeing of which I think there are some particulars which may instruct even the artificers of Great Britain, and for that reason my description will be more minute. Their cloth is of three kinds ; and it is made of the bark of three different trees, the Chinese paper mulberry, the bread-fruit tree, and the tree which resembles the wild fig-tree of the West Indies. The finest and whitest is made of the paper mulberry. Acuta ; this is worn chiefly by the principal people, and when it is dyed red takes a better colour. A second sort, inferior in whiteness and softness, is made of the bread-fruit tree, Ooroo, and worn chiefly by the inferior people ; and a third, of the tree that resembles the fig, which is coarse and harsh, and of the colour of the darkest brown paper ; this, though it is less pleasipg both to the eye and the touch, is the most valuable, because it resists water, which the other two sorts will not. Of this, which is the most rare as well as the most useful, the greater part is perfumed, and worn by the chiefs as a morning dress. All these trees are propagated wi^h great care, particularly the mulberry, which covers the largest part of the cultivated land, and is not fit for use after two or three years' growth, when it is about six or eight feet high, and somewhat thicker than a man''s thumb ; its excellence is to be thin, straight, tall, and without branches : the lower leaves, therefore, are carefully plucked ofl^, with their germs, as often as there is any appearance of their producing a branch. But though the cloth made of these three trees is diflorent, it is all manufactured in the same manner ; I shall, therefore, describe the process only in the fine sort, that is made of the mulberry. When the trees are of a proper size, they are drawn up, and stripped of their branches, after which the roots and tops are cut off ; the bark of these rods being then slit up longitudinally, is easily drawn off, and when a proper quantity has been procured, it is carried down to some running water, in which it is deposited to soak, and secured from floating away by heavy stones : when it is supposed to be sufficiently softened, the women servants go down to the brook, and stripping themselves, sit down in the water, to separate the inner bark from the green part on the outside ; to do this they place the under side upon a flat smooth board, and with the shell, which our dealers call tiger's tongue, Tdlina garyadia^ scrape it very carefully, dipping it continually in the water till nothing remains but the fine fibres of tho inner coat. Being thus prepared in the afternoon, tliey are spread out upon plantain leaves in the evening ; and in this part of the work there appears to be some difficulty, as the mistress of the family always superintends the doing of it : they are placed in lengths of about eleven or twelve yards, one by the side of another, till they are about a foot broad, and two or three layers are also laid one ^'ponthe other : care is taken tliat the cloth shall be in all parts of an equal thickness, so that if the bark happens to be tliinner in any particular part of one I-.yer than the rest, a piece that is somewhat thicker is pir^-'id out to Le laid over it in the next. In this state it remains till the morning, when gre.. part of the water which it contained when it was laid out, is either drained off or evaporated, and the several fibres adhere together, so as that the whole may be raised from the ground in one piece. H. CLOTII-DFATINC. MALLET. July, 17C9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 91 It is then taken away, and laid upon the smooth side v'^f a long piece of wood prepared for the purpose, and beaten by the women servants with instruments about a foot long and three inches thick, made of a hard wood whicli they call Etoa. The shape of this instrument is not unlike a square razor-strop, only that the handle is longer, and each of its four sides or faces is marked, lengthways, with small grooves or furrows, of different degrees of fineness ; those on one side being of a width and depth sufllicicnt to receive a small packthread, and the others finer in a regular gradation, so that the last are not more than equal to sewing-silk. They beat it first with the coarsest side of this mallet, keeping time like our smiths ; it spreads very fast under the strokes, chiefly, however, in the breadth, and the groo"C3 in the mallet mark it with the appearance of threads ; it is successively beaten with the other sides, last with the finest, and is then fit for use. Sometimes, however, it is made still thinner, by beating it with the finest side of the mallet, after it has been several times doubled ; it is then called Hoboo, and is almost as thin as a muslin. It becomes very white by being bleached in the air, but is made still whiter and softer by being washed and beaten again after it has been worn. SPRCIMRNB OF CLOTH. Of this cloth there are several sorts, of different degrees of fineness, in proportion as it is more or less beaten without being doubled. The other cloth also differs in proportion as it is beaten ; but they differ from each other in consequence of the different materials of which they are made. The bark of the bread-fruit is not taken till the trees are considerably longer and thicker than those of the fig ; the process afterwards is the same. When cloth is to be washed after it has been worn, it is taken down to the brook, and left to soak, being kept fast to the bottom, as at first, by a stone ; it is then gently wrung or squeezed ; and sometimes several pieces of it are laid one upon another, and beaten together with the coarsest side of the mallet, and they sire then equal in thickness to broad-cloth, and much more soft and agreeable to the touch after they have been a little while in use, though when they come immediately from the mallet they feel as if they had been starched. This cloth sometimes breaks in the beating, but is easily repaired by pasting on a patch with a gluten that is prepared from the root of the Pea, which is done so nicely that it cannot be discovered. The women also etnploy themselves in removing blemishes of every kind, as our ladies do in needlework or knotting ; sometimes, when their work is intended to be very fine, they will paste an entire covering of hoboo over the whole. The principal excellences of this cloth are its coolness and softness ; and its imperfections, its being pervious to water like paper, and almost as easily torn. The colours with which they dye this cloth arc principally red and yellow. The red is exceedingly beautiful, and I may venture to say a brighter and more delicate colour than 'I'MJI m:I ' 02 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. July, 17C9. a i h any we have in Europe ; that which approaches nearest is our full scarlet ; and the best imitation which Mr. Banks's natural-history painter could produce, was by a mixture of vermilion and carmine. The yellow is also a bright colour, but we have many as good. The red colour is produced by the mixture of the juices of two vegetables, neither of which separately has the least tendency to that hue. One is a species of fig, called here matte, and the otlier the Curdia Sel/istina, or ctoti; of the fig the fruit is used, and of the Cordia, the leavt'S. The fruit of the fig is about as big as a Rounceval pea, or very small gooseberry; and each of them, upon breaking off the stalk very close, produces one drop of a milky liquor, resem- bling the juice of our figs, of which the tree is indeed a species. This liquor the women collect into a small quantity of cocoa-nut water : to prepare a gill of cocoa-nut water will require between three and four quarts of these little figs. When a suflicient quantity is prepared, the leaves of the Eton are well wetted in it, and then laid uiton a plantain-leaf, where they arc turned about till they become more and more flaccid ; and then they are gently squeezed, gradually increasing the pressure, but so as not to break them. As the flaccidity increases, and they become spongy, they are supplied with more of tlie liquor ; in about five minutes the colour begins to appear upon the veins of the leaves ; and in about ten, or a little more, they are perfectly saturated with it. They are then squeezed with as much force as can be applied, and the liquor strained at the same time that it is expressed. For this purpose, the boys prepare a large quantity of the ]\[oo, by drawing it between their teeth, or two little sticks, till it is freed from the green b.ark anJ the branny substance that lies imder it, and a thin web of the fibres only remains ; in this the leaves of the etou are enveloped, and through these the juice which they contain is strained as it is forced out. As the leaves arc not succulent, little more juice is pressed out of them than they have imbibed ; when they have been once emptied, they are filled again, and again pressed, till the quality which tinctures the liquor as it passes through them is exhausted ; tiiey are then thrown away ; but the jMoo, being deeply stained with the colour, is preserved as a brush to lay the dye upon the cloth. The expressed liquor is always received into small cups made of the plantain leaf; whether from a notion that it has any quality favourable to the colour, or from the facility witli which it is procured, and the convenience of small vessels to distri- bute it among the artificers, I do not know. Of the thin cloth they seldom dye more than the edges, but the thick cloth is coloured through the whole surface ; the liquor is, indeed, used rather as a pigment than a dye, for a coat of it is laid upon one side only with the fibres of the Moo ; and though I have seen of the thin clotli tliat has appeared to have been soaked in the liquor, the colour has not had the same richness and lustre as when it has been applied in the other manner. Though the leaf of the Etou is generally used in tliis process, and probably produces the finest colour, yet the juice of the figs will produce a red by a mixture with the species of Toumefortia, which they call Taheinoo, the Pohuc, the Eiirhe, or Coneolviihis hrasUietisis, and a species of Solanum, called Ebooa; from the use of these different plants, or from different proportions of the materials, many varieties are observable in the colours of their cloth, some of which are conspicuously superior to others. The beauty, however, of the best is not permanent ; but it is probable that some method might be found to fix it, if proper experiments were made ; and, perhaps, to search for laten' qualities, which may be brought out by the mixture of one vegetable juice with another, would not be an unprofitable employment. Our present most valuable dyes afford suflicient encouragement to the attempt ; for by the mere inspection of indigo, woad, dyer's-weed, and most of the leaves which are used for the like purposes, the colours which they yield could never be discovered. Of this Indian red I shall only add, that the women who have been employed in preparing or using it, carefully preserve the colour upon their fingers and nails, where it appears in its utmost beauty as a great ornament. The yellow is made of the bark of the root of the Mormda citrl/olia, called Nona, by scraping and infusing it in water ; after standing some time, the water is strained and used as a dye, the cloth being dipped into it. The Morinda, of which this is a species, seems r I 17C9. Jii,Y, 1760. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. J)3 seen of , had the uces the ipecics of mlietisis, or from of their the hest proper )roiight rofitablo to the le leaves covered. Nono, ncd and 8, seems to be a good subject for examination with a view to dyeing. lirown, in his History of Jamaica, mentions three si>ccii'8 of it, which lie says are used to dye brown ; and Rumphius says of the liancuda miflmtl/otia, whicli is nearly allied to our Nono, th.it it is used by the inhabitants of the East Indian islands as a fixing drug for red colours, with which it parti- cularly agrees. The inhabitants of this island also dyo yellow with the fruit of the Tamanu, but how the colour is extracted we had no opportunity to discover. They have also a projiaration with which they dye brown and black ; but these colours arc so indifferent, that the method of preparing them did not excite our curiosity. Another considerable manufacture is matting of various kinds ; some of which is finer and better, in every respect, than any we have in Europe : the coarser sort serves them to sleep upon, and the finer to wear in wet weather. With the fine, of which there arc also two sorts, much pains is taken, especially with that made of the bark of the Poerou, the Hibiscus tiliaceiis of Linna}us, some of which is as fine as a coarse cloth ; the other sort, which is still more beautiful, they call mnnc ; it is white, glossy, and shining, and is made of the leaves of their ir/iarrou, a species of the Panduutis, of which we had no opportunity to see either the flowers or fruit : tliey have other mats, — or as they call them, HtocrtJ, — to sit or to sleep upon, which are formed of a great variety of rushes and grass, and which they make, as they do everything else that is plaited, with amazing facility and despatch. They are also very dexterous in making basket and wicker work ; their baskets arc of a thousand different patterns, many of them exceedingly neat ; and the making them is an art that every one practises, both men Jind women : they - -_^^ ni.ake occasional baskets and panniers of the cocoa-nut leaf in a few minutes ; and the women who visited us early in a morning used to send, as soon .as the sun was high, for a few of the leaves, of which they made little bonnets to shade f their faces, at so small an ex- ' penso of time and trouble, that . when the sun was again low in the evening, they used to throw them away. These bonnets, however, did not cover the head, but consisted only of a band that went round it, and a shade that projected from l;ie forehead. Of the bark of the Poerou they make ropes and lines, from the thickness of an inch to the size of a small packthread : with these they make nets for fishing : of the fibres of the cocoa-nut they make thread for fastening together the several parts of their canoes, and belts, cither round or flat, twisted or plaited ; and of the bark of the Erotca, a kind of nettle which grows in the mountains, and is therefore rather scarce, they make the best fi.shing-lines in the world : with these they hold the strongest and most active fish, such as bonetas and albicores, which would snap our strongest silk lines in a minute, though they are twice as thick. They make also a kind of seine, of a coarse broivd grass, the blades of which are like flags ; these they twist and tie together in a loose manner, till the net, which is about as wide as a large sack, is from sixty to eighty fathoms long : this they haul in shoal smooth water, and its own weight keeps it so close to the ground, that scarcely a single fish can escape. In every expedient, indeed, for taking fish, they arc exceedirgly ingenious ; they make harpoons of cane, and point them with hard wood, whicl. in their hands strike fish more cflectnally than those which arc headed wiih iron can do in ours, setting aside the advantage of oiirs being fastened to a line, so that the fish is secured if the hook takes place, though it does not mortally wound him. ■■^^i-^'Htifiir^ SPKCIMKNS OF DASKET-noRK. 94 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. July, 17G9. Of fish-hooks they have two sorts, admirably adapted in their construction as well to the purpose they are to answer as to the materials of which they are made. One of these, which they call leittee-tciltee, is used for towing. The shank is made of mother-of-pearl, the most glossy that can be gut : the inside, which is naturally the brightest, is put behind. To these hooks a tuft of white dog's or hog''8 hair is fixed, so as somewhat to resemble the tail of a fish ; these implements, therefore, are both hook and bait, and are used with a rod of bamboo, and line of erotca. The fisher, to secure his success, watches the fliglit of the birds which constantly attend the bonetas when they swim in shoals, by which he directs his canoe, and when he has the advantage of tlicse guides, he seldom returns without a prize. The other kind of hook is also made of mother-of-pearl, or some other hard shell : they cannot make them bearded like our hooks ; but to effect the same purpose, they make the point turn inwards. Tlicse are made of all sizes, and used to catch various kinds of fish witii great success. Tlie manner of making them is very simple, and every fisherman is his own artificer : the shell is first cut into square pieces by the edge of another shell, and wrought into a form corresponding with the outline of the hook by pieces of coral, which are sufiiciently rough to perform tlic office of a file ; a hole is then bored in the middle ; the drill being no other than the first stone they pick up that has a sharp comer : this they fix into the end of a piece of bamboo, and turn it between the hands like a chocolate-mill ; when the shell is perforated and the hole sufficiently wide, a small file of coral ia introduced, by the application of which the hook is in a short time completed, few costing the artificer more time than a quarter of an hour. iJi- ;:u :, ''^.\ FISIIING-HU0K8, NF.T, AND HARPOONS. Of their masonry, carving, and architecture, the reader has already r-rmed some idea from the account that has been given of the Morais, or repositories of the dead ; the other most important article of building and carving is their boats ; and, perhaps, to fabricate one of their principal vessels with their tools is as great a work as to build a British man- of-war with ours. They have an adze of stone ; a chisel or gouge of bone, generally that of a man's arm between the wrist and elbow ; a rasp of coral ; and the skin of a sting-ray, with coral sand, as a file or polisher. This is a complete catalogue of their tools ; and with these they build houses, construct canoes, hew stone, and fell, cleave, carve, and polish timber. The stone which makes the blade of their adzes is a kind of basaltes, of a blackish or grey colour, not very hard, but of considerable toughness : they are formed of different July, 17C9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. M Rniip mnilo of FiaU-skin. Chisel. Knife. File. Mallot. Bizps: some, tliat are in- tended for felling, weigh from six to ei<:;ht pounds ; others, that arc used for carving, not more than so many ounces ; hut it is necessary to sharpen hotli almost every minute ; for which purpose a stono and a cocoa-nut shell full of water are always at hand. Their greatest exploit, to which these tools arc less equal than to any other, is felling a tree : ,,..11 TOOLS. this requires many nanus, and the constant lahour of several days. When it is down, they split it with the grain into planks from three to four inches thick, the whole length and hreadth of the tree, many of which are eight feet in the girth, and forty to the branches, nearly of the same thickness throughout. The tree generally used is, in their language, called avie, the stem of which is tall and straight ; though some of the smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit tree, which is a light, spongy wood, and easily wrought. They smooth the plank very expeditiously and dexterously with their adzes, and can t.ake off a thin coat from a whole plank without missing a stroke. As they have not the art of warping a plank, every part of the canoe, whether hollow or flat, is shaped by hand. Lnrgc Stone Adze. Toothed Adze-head. Small Stone Adze. i Small -toothed Adze. The canoes, or boats, which are used by the inhabitants of this and the neighbouring islands, may be divided into two general classes ; one of which they call irahahs, the other pahiet. The Ivahah is used for short excursions to sea, and is wall- sided and flat-bottomed; the Pahic, for longer voyages, and is bow-sided and sharp-bottomed. The Ivahas are all of the OG COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Jl I,Y, KfiO. .1' i' same figure, but of dlflfercnt sizes, and iipcd for different purposes : their length is from seventy-two feet to ten, but the breadth is by no means in ]>roportion ; for those of ten feet are about a foot wide, and those of more than seventy arc scarcely two. There is the fighting Ivahah, the fishing Ivahah, and tlio travelling Ivahah — for some of these go from one island to another. The fighting Ivahah is by far the longest, and the head and stern arc considerably raised above tlie body, in a semicircular form ; particularly the stern, which is sometimes seventeen or eighteen feet high, though the boat itself is scarcely three. These never go to sea single, but arc fastened together, side by side, at the distance of about three feet, by strong poles of wood, which are laid across them and lashed to the gunwales. Upon these, in the fore part, a stage or platform is raised, about ten or t wel ve feet long, and somewhat wider than the boats, whicli is supported by pillars about six feet high : upon this stage stand the fighting men, whose missile weapons are slings and spears ; for, among other singularities in the manners of these people, their bows and arrows are used only for diversion, as we throw quoits : below these stages sit the rowers, who receive from them those that are wounded, and furnish fresh men to ascend in their room. Some of these have a platform of bamboos, or other light wood, through their whole length, and consider- ably broader, by means of which they will carry a great number of men ; but we saw only one fitted in this manner. The fishing Ivahahs vary in length from about forty feet to the smallest size, which is about ten ; all that are of the length of twenty-five feet and upwards, of whatever sort, occasionally carry sail. The travelling Ivahah is always double, and furnished with a small neat house, about five or six feet broad, and six or seven feet long, which is fastened upon tlie forc-jiart for the convenience of the principal people, wlio sit in them by day, and sleep in them at night. The fishing Ivahahs arc some- times joined together, and have a house on board ; but this is not common. Those which are shorter than five-and-twenty feet seldom or never carry sail ; and though the stern rises about four or five feet, have a flat head and a board that projects forward about four feet. Tiic Pabie is also of different sizes, from sixty to thirty feet long ; but, like the Ivahah, is very narrow. One that I measured was fifty-one feet long, and only one foot and a half wide at the top. In the widest part it was about three feet ; and this is the general proportion. It does not, however, widen by a gradual swell ; but the sides being straight and parallel for a little way below the gunwale, it swells abruptly, and draws to a ridge at the bottom ; so that a transverse section of it has somewhat the appearance of the mark upon cards called a spade, the whole being much wider in proportion to its length. These, like the largest Ivahahs, are used for fighting, but principally for long voyages. The fighting Paliic, which is the largest, is fitted with the stage or platform, whicli is propor- tionably larger than those of the Ivahah, as their form enables them to sustain a much greater weight. Those that are used for sailing are generally double ; and the middle size are said to be the best sea-boats. They are sometimes out a month together, going from island to island ; and sometimes, as we were credibly informed, they are a fortnight or twenty days at sea, and could keep it longer if they had more stowage for provisions, and conveniences to hold fresh water. AVhen any of these boats carry sail single, they make use of a log of wood, which is fastened to the end of two poles that lie across the vessel, and project from six to ten feet, according to the size of the vessel, beyond its side; somewhat like what is used by the flying proa of the Ladrone Islands, and called, in the account of Lord Anson's Voyage, an outrigger. To this outrigger the shrouds arc fastened, and it is essentially necessary in trimming the boat when it blows fresh. Some of them have one mast, and some two ; they are made of a single stick, and when the length of a canoe is thirty feet, that of the mast is somewhat less than five-and-twenty ; it ia fixed to a frame that is above the canoe, and receives a sail of matting about one-third longer than itself : the sail is pointed at the top, square at the bottom, and curved at the side ; somewhat resembling what we call a shoulder-of-mutton sail, and used for boats half iropor- a much die size g from light or ans, and hich is ten feet, 10 flying trigger. ling the d wlicn wcnty ; ■nc-third i at the r boats Jui.Y.lTfi!). COOKS FIRST VOYAOK HOUND THE WOULD. OT l)fl()ngiii!T to men of war : it is i)liitod in a frame of wood, wliicli surroirnds it on every side, and has no contrivance eitlier for reefing or furling ; so that, if either should heeome necessary, it must he cut awav. which, Iiowevcr, in these equal climates, can seldom hapjun. At tlic top of the mast are Histened ornaments of featliers, which are i)Iaced inclining ohliipiely forwards. The oars or paddles that are used witli these boats, have a long handle and a flat blade, not unlike a baker's peel. Of these every person in the boat lias one, except those that sit nnhr the awning; and they push her forward with them at a good rate. Tlieso boats, however, admit so much water at the scams, that one person at least is continually employed in throwing it out. T!ic only thing in wliicli they excel is landing, and putting ofV from the shore in a surf; by their great length and high sterns they land dry, when our boats could scarcely land at all ; and iiave the same advantages in putting oft' by the height of the iiead. The Ivahalis arc the only boats that are used by the inhabitants of Otaheite ; but wo saw several Pahies that came from other islands. Of one of these I shall give the exact dimensions from a careful admeasurement, and then partieulariy describe the manner iu which they arc built. Ft. In. Extreme Iciv'.li from stem to slcrn, lint reckoning the bending lip of citlicr . . -tl Urcailili in l!ie clear of tlic tup forward ' " ^ ^ Breadth in llie midshii>8 ....... .... 1 u Hrcadtli aft 13 In tlic biljie forwaid .....•■••••"" In the midships . . . . . . • • • • ..211 Aft 2 9 Depth in tlic midships . . . . • . ■ • • • ...» 1 Height from tlic ground on wliicli she stood . . . • • .36 Height of her head from tlic ground, without the figure . . . • ..44 Height of the figure •• 1 ' Height of the stern from the ground . . . 8 9 Height of the figure ........... 2 To illustrate my description of the manner in which these vessels are built, it will be necessary to refer to the figure ; *^ '■" in which a a is the first scam, b h the second, and c c the . third. The first stage or keel, under a a, is made of a tree hollowed ^ — x\ y/- a out like a trough ; for which the longest trees are chosen that can be got, so that there are never mon; than three in the whole length : the next stage under b b, is formed of straight plank, about four feet long, fifteen inches broad, and two inches thick : the third stage imder c r, is, like the bottom, made of trunks, hollowed into its bilging form ; the last is also cut out of trunks, so that the moulding is of one piece with the upright. To form these parts separately, without saw, plane, cliisel, or any other iron tool, may well be thought no easy task ; but the great difliculty is to join them together. When all the parts are prepared the keel is laid upon blocks, and the planks, being supported by stanchions, arc sewed or clamped together with strong thongs of plaiting, which are passed several times through holes that arc bored with a gouge or auger of bone, that has been described already ; and the nicety with which this is done may be inferred from their being sufficiently water-tight for use without caulking. As the plaiting soon rots in the water, it is renev/ed at least once a year ; in order to which the vessel is taken entirely to pieces. The head and stern are rude with respect to tho design ; but very neatly finished, and polished to tho highest degree. These Pahies are kept with great care in a kind of house built on purpose for their reception ; the houses are formed of poles set upright in the ground, the tops of which arc drawn towards each other, and fastened together with their strongest cord, so as to form a kind of Gothic arch, which is completely thatched quite to tho ground, being open only at the ends ; th(>y arc sometimes fifty or sixty paces long. As connected with the navigation of these people, I shall mention their wonderful sagacity in foretelling the weather, at least the quarter from which the wind shall blow at a future II 03 ((K)KS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Ji'i.v, 17C9. time ; tlicy have several ways of doing tliis, of wliicli however I know but one. They say that the ^Iilky-way is always curved laterally, hut sometimes in one directit)n and sometimes in another ; and tli;it tliis curvature is the effect of its being already acted upon by the wind, and its hollow j)art tliereforo towards it ; so tliat if the same curvature continues a nipht, a correspondinf; wind certainly blows the next day. Of their rules I shall not pretend to judge ; but I know that, by whatever means, they can predict the weather, at least tiio wind, with much greater certainty than we can. In their longer voyages they steer by tho sun in tlie ilay, and in the night by tlie stars ; all of which tliey distingtiish separately by names, and know in wiiat part of the heavens they will appear in any of the months during which they are visible in their horizon ; they also know tho time of their annual appearing and disappearing with more precision than will easily bo believed by a European astronomer. ^ji ClIAPTEn XIX. — OP THE PIVISION OP TIME IN OTAITEITE NVMERATION, COMri'TATION OP DISTANCE, LANGTAfiE, DIsKASES, DISPOSAL OP THE DEAD, IlELIOION, WAH, WEAPONS, AND GOVEUNMENT WITH SOME GENERAL OUSEIIVATIONS FOB THE ISE OF FUTIHB NAVIGATORS. "We were not .able to acquire a pefect idea of their method of dividing time ; but observed, that in speaking of it, either past or to come, they never used any term but Malnma, which signifies moon. Of these moons they count thirteen, and then begin again ; which is a demonstration that they have a notion of tie solar /ear : but how they compute their months so that thirteen of them shall be commensurate with the year, we conld not discover; for they say that each montli has twenty-nine days, including one in which the moon is not visible. They have names for them separately, and have frequently told us the fruits that would be in season, and tho weather that would i»revail, in each of them ; and they have, indeed, a name for them collectively, though they use it only when they speak of tho mysteries of their religion. Every day is subdivided into twelve parts, each of two hours, of which six belong to the day, and six to the night. At these divisions they guess pretty nearly by the height of the sun while ho is above the horizon ; but there are few of them that can guess at them, when he is below it, by the stars. In numeration they proceed from one to ten, the number of fingers on both hands ; and though they have for each number a different name, they generally take hold of their fingers one by one, shifting from one hand to tho other till they come to the number they want to express. And in other instances, we observed that, when they were conversing with each other, they joined signs to their words, which were so expressive that a stranger might easily apprehend their meaning. In counting from ten they repeat the name of that number, and add the word more; ten, and one more, is eleven ; ten, and two more, twelve : and so of the rest, as we say onc-and- twenty, two-and-twcnty. Wlien they come to ten and ten more, they have a new denomination, as we say a score ; and by these scores they count till they get ten of them, when they have a denomination for two hundred ; and we never could discover that they had any denomination to express a greater number : neither, indeed, do they seem to want .any; for ten of these amount to two thousand, a greater number than they can ever apply. In measuring distance they are much more deficient than in computing numbers, having but one term, which answers to fathom ; when they speak of distances from place to place, they express it, like the Asiatics, by the time that is required to pass it. Their language is soft and melodious ; it abounds with vowels, .and wo easily learnt to pronounce it : but found it exceedingly difficult to teach them to pronounce a single word of ours ; probably not only from its abounding in consonants, but from some peculiarity in its structure ; for Spanish and Italian words, if ending in a vowel, they pronounced with great facility. Whctlier it is copious, we were not stifficiently acquainted with it to know ; but it is certainly very imperfect, For it is almost totally without inflexion, both of nouns and verbs. Few of the nouns have more than one case, and few of the verbs more than Jri.v, 17(10. COOK'S FIRST VOYACH UOllN'D TIIK M'OULFX '.tn le a new I of thcin, that tlioy to want T apply. ), having I to place, learnt to ^le word Jiarity in ccd with know ; if nouns lore than one tense; yet we found no fjroat dilliculty in making oursclvca mutually understood, however strange it may appear in speculation *. They have, iiowever, certain iij/i.m, which, though hut few in nimiher, are very useful to them, and puzzled us extremely. One nsks another, lltinr hca? Where are yon going ?" The other answers, Irti/ihicru, " To my wives ;" upi.n wiiieh the first, rei)eating the answer interrogatively, "To your wives T' is answend, lraliUh't\ir(t ; " Ves, I am going to my wivi!s." Here the sultixaovf and eirn save several words to both parties. I have inserted a few of their words, from which, j)erliaps, some idea may bo f»)rnied of the language. I'lipo .... Alicwh . ... Hnoiiroii .... Oiitou .... Nitiro .... Ariero .... Mi'ii-ounii . . . Tiiirrali(« .... Tuniiiu . . Tiiuli .... Oiimn .... Kii .... Oboi. .... Kciim .... Vaco .... Oporctna Man lieu w . . • Micu .... . . Ihe head. Tniitii- . , , the biittoelf'i. . Ihn nose. Iloiiiiliuh . . the thi:/hs. . , the hair. A via , the leyi. • Ihr mouth. 'I'aima Ihe fee/. . . the teeth. l)0(>,1 . . a /((»/. . the toiij/iir. Moa . (1 foirl. . . the heard. Kiiico , , a dog. . Ihe throat. I'jiie-ciiic- . . . iron. the shoulders. Onroo . . .hrcad-fruil. . the back. 1 [caioo . coeoa-iiiils. . the l)rea.>it. .Mill . . . banana.*. the tiipples. i'uc hi ads. . the belly. I'oo Diatawowwc . pearl. . the arm. Alioii , . . a garment. wild plantains. Avco . a fn it like applis. . Ihe hand. Aheo . anothei like ch'sniils. . the fingers. Kwlinrro . , . . .1 house. . the nails. ' Wliciiiiua • a high island. * Tlio numerous islamls of the I'acinc arc inlialiitcd liy two ilistinct races of men ; tlio one with briglit and glnssyjiair, skin of n light copper colour, and the coun- tenance resembling that of the Malays, ^^ith whom they are, by most modern inquirers, supposed to bo allicil : — the other of an herculean fr.inie, black skin, and woolly or rather crisped hair, whoso origiu is suppiitod to be the same with that of the Papuan or Negro tribes who are found scattered in most nf the islands of the Kastern Archipelago, whatever that may be, a point much in debatu among the inquirers into the nature of the varieties of tlie human species. The Negro and the Malay races arc not, however, found dwelling together in the South-Sea Islands. Mr. M'illinms ( " Missionary Enterprises in the Houth-Sea Islands," p. .SOI) says that the copper-coloured people " inhabit Eastern Polynesia, which includes the Sand- tiiich, the Mnrquesan, the Paumotti, the Tahitian, the Socieig, the Austral, the Hervey, the Navigator's, the Friendly Islands, New Zealand, and all the smaller islands in their respective vicinities ; while the Polynesian negro is found from the Fijis to the coast of New Holland, a s|)acc, which, for the sake of distinction, may be called Western Polynesia.'* Missionary enterprise has hitherto been chiefly confined to the copper-coloui-ed natives, and comparatively little is known of the character or language of the Polynesian negroes. Mr. Williams considers the language of all the islands of Eastern Polynesia to bo the same, in which he distinguishes eight distinct dialects, of which he gives various specimens. The language is much more complete than it appeared to Captain Cook and his companions. Mr. Williams remarks, *' that a language spoken by savages should 1)6 supposed to bo defective iii many respects, could not create surprise ; but the fact is, contrary to all wo might have anticipated, that the Polynesian dialects arc remarkably rich, admit of a great variety of phraseology, aboimd in terms of peculiar nicety, and are spoken with strict con- formity to the most precise grammatical principles. • • • H The Polynesians employ three numbers, the singular, tho dual, and the plural, with which the inflections of their verbs agree. Their pronouns are beautifully complete, having several remarkable and v„;uahlo distinctions unknown to us. An instance is found in what we may term the inclusive and exclusive pronouns : for example, in English wo say, • It is lime for us to go ;' and the e.\pression may or may not include the person addrcs'ed. Now, in the Polynesian di.ilects, there arc two pronouns which mark this dilTcrencc, maton and talon. If the jirrson spoken to is one of the party goiuj;, tlie talon would be used ; if not, the ma/o«. • • • There is like- wise a causative verb, as tiin/rtH, fear; haa matati, Ut make afraid ; matau hia, to he feared ; haa malau hia, to cause to be feared. The ilistiiietion of sounds, also, is very delicate, and has occasionally placed the n)issionai y in rather awkward eircumslanccs. On one occasion an excellent brother was preaching for me, and happening to aspirate a word which ought not to be aspirated, ho addressed the people as beloved savages, instead of beloved brethren. Notwithstanding this, no person speaks incor- rectly, and wc never hear such violations of grammar and pronunciation as are common in England, There are hut fourteen or fifteen letters in any of the dialects of this language ; and as wc spell ihe word precisely as it is pro- nounced, no dilliculty is experienced in teaching the chil- dren spelling. All we have to do is to instruct them in tho sound of the letters, and when these are acquired, they spell the longest words with case." The present is not tho pliicc, even did space permit, for an inquiry into the origin of the South-sea Islaiulers, or an exitmiiuition of tho evidence tending to confirm (heir Malay extraction. On these points we would refer our readers to Williams's " Missionary Enterprises, " ch.ip. 29 ; '•Ellis's Polynesian Researches," vol. ii., chap. 2; and generally to the remarks on the same subject scattered throughout the " Surveying Voyages of the Adventure and the Beagle;" and particulaily the 27th chapter of tho tccond voliniic, where may be found Captain l-'iirioy's remarks on tlie " migrations of the lininnu race." — Ko, '/I 10f» COOK'S* FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. JiLV, 1700. Moiii 'I'olll Ai'vo A en Miio Tmii . Iliirii-liiini I'Ir'.ow . A mil Tii.lc . Iliiri'O Ktiiiiiinoo Alia Kilicno OiiDpn Aviyiio A-ft . Mnnnu Mora MlltlOVV Toiiia Mow Miilii-innlii Muttna . Kiipca Malinnnn . Miilnnia Wlicttii . , a low ialniiil. . . blond. , , bone. . . Jleth. . . . /«/. , Iran. . . hair. . n tree. . a branch. ajiiiirer. . ' fiuil. the stem. . . the root. herbnceoiix plants, a iiijifiin. . a imro'/uet. . another sjiecies. . a bird. , . a duck. ajish-hnok. a rope. a shark. . n djlpliin, . a Jhhing-rnd. , . a net. the .sun. . the moon. a star. Wlictlii-cui>lic Krai Kiilta Mill Klin A . Inia I'arec Piirori'o I'ia Tlninliali Mania I'uto Ro. . Ni'lieniir !Miila-inala . WImiinn Iliiirc Arrca . . Kiiolio Kolie riilio Maa liioo Kto . Warriilo Worriililo . Teparahi (I comet. the ski/. a clonil. good. bad. ye$. no, . , ^I'lli/. hnnqri). '/nil. . hearif, light. . short. tall. siri-el, , . bitli-r. to go far. . to go. to stay. , to remain. , to be tired, to ent. to drink, to understand. . , to steal. , to be angrg. , , to beat. i ' ;• !i Among people whose food is so simple, and v.!io in general .ire seldom drunk, it is scarcely necc'ss.ary to 8.ay, tli.at there arc but few diseases ; wc saw no critical disease during our stay upon tlio island, and but few inst.ances of sickness, which were accidental fits of the colic. The natives, however, are .afflicted with erysipelas and cutaneous eruptions of the scaly kind, very nearly approaching to a leprosy. Those in whom this distemper was far .adv.anced lived in a state of seclusion from all society, each in a small house built u])on some unfre- quented spot, where they were supplied with provisions : but whether they had .any hope of i-elief, or Languished out the remainder of their lives in solitude and despair, we could not learn. Wc observed also a few who had ulcers upon different parts of tiieir bodies, some of which had a very virulent appearance ; yet tliey seemed not much to be regarded by those who were afflicted with them, for they were left entirely without application even to keep off the flies. Where intemperance produces no diseases, there will bo no physicians by profession ; yet yet where there is suffer.ance, there will alw.ays be attempts to relieve ; and where the cause of the mischief and the remedy are alike unknown, these will naturally be directed by superstition ; thus it happens, that in this country, and in all others which are not further injured by luxury, or improved by knowledge, the management of the sick falls to the lot of the priest. The method of cure that is i)ractised by the priests of Otiiheitc consists chiefly of prayers and ceremonies. When he visits his patient ho repeats certain sentences, which .appear to bo set forms lontrived for the occasion, and at the sjimc time plsiits the leaves of the cocoa-nut into dih'orcnt figures very neatly; some of these he fastens to the fingers and toes of the sick, ami often leaves behind him a few branches of the Thespecia pojndnca, which they call E'm'ulho: these ceremonies .arc repeated till the patient recovers or dies. If he recovers, they say the remedies cured him ; if he dies, they 8.ay the disease was incurable ; in which perhaps they do not much differ from the custom of otlier countries. If wc had judged of their skill in surgery from the dreadful scars which wo sometimes saw, we should have supposed it to be much superior to the art, not only of their physicians, but of ours. We saw one man whose face was almost entirely destroyed, his nose, including the bone, was perfectly flat, and one cheek and one eye were so beaten in, that the hollow would .almost receive a man's fist, yet no ulcer remained j and our companion, Tupia, h.ad been pierced quite through his body by a spear, headed with the bone of the sting-ray, the weapon having entered his back, and come out just under his breast ; but except in reducing Jii.v, 1700. COOK'S FIRST V()YA(JE UOL'NU THE MOULD. 101 lli^ 9 i-i! I t ^'ii-'^/:^ •■ 0TAUEI1E BIEK. almost cover the outside of the house. Garlands of the fruit of the palm-nut, nx pandanuf, and cocoa-leaves, twisted by the priests in mysterious knots, with a plant called by them Kthee no Moral, which is particularly consecrated to funeral solemnities, are deposited about tho place ; provision and water are also left at a little distance ; of which, and of other decorations, a more particular description has been given already. As soon as the body is deposited in the Tupapow, the mourning is rene\ved. Tho women assenihle, and are led to tho di.or by the nearest relation, who strikes a shark's tooth several times into the crown of her head : tho blood copiously follows, and is carefully received upon pieces of linen, which are thrown under the bier. The rest of the women follow this examj>le, and the ceremony is repeated at the interv.''! of t\.() or three days, as long as the zeal and sorrow of the l)arties hold out. The tears also which are shed upon these occasions are received upon pieces of cloth, and offered us oblations to the dead : some of the younger people cut off their hair, and that is thrown under the bier with the other offering's. This custom is founded upon a notion that tho soul of the deceased, which they believe to exist in a separate state, is lioverin^ about the placie where the body is deposited ; that it observes the actions of the sur- vivors, and is gratified by such testimonies of tluir affection and grief. Two ov three days after these ceremonies have been commenced by tho women, during which tho men seem to be wholly insensible of the'r loss, thev al.o begin to perform their part. KINKIIAI.-OHFSS (IF Tlir M?AltF.>T RKLATIVK Ot Tlir. UECKA8KI) PKIIHUN, Jl'LY, l"fJJ). COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLIi. 101 Tlie nearest relations take it in turn to assume tlio dress, and perform the office, wliicli have already been particularly described in the account of Tubourai Tamaide's having acted as chief mourner to an old woman, his relation, who died while we were in the island. One part of the ceremony, however, wliich accounts for th'. runninfif away of the pc^j.ie as soon as this procession is in sight, has not been mentioned. The chief mourner carries in liis hand a long flat sti( k, the edge of which is set witli shark's teeth, and in a frenzy, which his grief is supposed to have inspired, he runs at all he sees ; and if any of them happen to be overtaken, he strikes them most unmercifully with this indented cudgel, which cannot fail to wound them in a dangerous manner. These processions continue at certain intervals for five moons ; but arc less and less frequent, by a gradual diminution, as the end of that time approaches. When it is expired, what remains of the body is taken down from the bier, and the bones, having been scraped and washed very clean, arc buried, according to the rank of the person, either within or without a Morai. If the d'iceased was an Earce, or chief, liis skull is not buried with the rest of the bones, but is wrapped up in fine cloth, and put in a kind of box made for that purpose, which is also placed in tlie Morai. This coffer is called Eicharre no te Oivmetua, the house of a teacher or master. After this the mourning ceases, except some of the women continue to be really afflicted for the loss ; ai\d, in that case, they will sometimes suddenly wound themselves with the shark's tooth wherever they happen to be. This, perliaps, will account for the passion of grief in which Terapo wounded herself at the fort : some acci- dental circumstance might forcibly revive the remcmliance of a friend or relation wliom slio had lost, with a p. ngency of regret and te»;derness which forced a vent by tears, and I rompted her to a repetition of the funeral rite". The ceremonies, however, do not cease with the mourning ; prayers are still said by the priest, who is well ])aid by the surviving relations, and offerings made at the Morai. Some of the things which from time to time arc deposited there arc emblematical : a young plantain represents the deceased, and the bunch of feathers the deity 'vho is invoked. Tiio priest places himself over against the symbol of the god, accompanied by some of the relations, who are furnished with a small offering, and repeats his orison in a set form, consisting of scimrate sentences ; at the same time weaving the leaves of the cocoa-nut into different forms, wiiich he afterwards deposits upon the ground where the bones have been interred ; the deity is then addressed by a shrill screech, which is used only upon that occasion. When the priest retires, the tuft of feathers is removed, and the provisions left to putrify or be devoured by the rats. Of the religion of these people, we were not able to acquire any clccW and consist jnt knowledge : we found it, like the religion of most other countries, involved in mystery, and pr'-'plexed with apparent inconsistencies. The religious language is also here, as it is in Cliina, different from that which is used in common , so that Tupia, who took great pains to instruct us, having no words to express his meaning which wc understood, gave us lectures to very little purpose. What we learnt, In wevcr, I will relate with as much perspicuity a.'i 1 can. Nothing i.s more obvious to a rational being, however ignorant and stupid, tiian that the universe and its various parts, as far as they fall under his notice, were produced by some agent inconceivably more po\ -rful than himself; and nothing is more difficult to be conceived, even by the most sagacious and knowing, than the production of them from nothing, which among us is expressed by the word Creation. It is natural, therefore, as no Being apparently capable of producing the universe is to be seen, that he should be supposed to reside in some distant part of it, or to be in his nature invisible, and that ho should have originally produced all that now exists in a manner similar to that in which nature is renovated by the succession of one generation to another ; but the idea of procreation inchule^ in it that of tw j persons ; and from the conjunction of two persons these people imagine cvcrythi'ig in the universe, either originally or derivatively, to proceed. The Supremo Doity, one of those two first beings, they call T iioATAiiiETOostoo, and tlio other, whoiii they suppose * j have been a rock, Tepai'A. A daugliter of these was Tiarow. MATATAYO, tlio year, or thirteen months collectively, which they never name but upou i 104 COOK'S FIRST VQYAGE UOUXD THE U'ORLD. Jli.v, 17rec takes place with as little trouble as the marriage. 15ut though the priesthood has laid the people under no tax for a nuptial bencdictior, hero are two <)i)erations which it lias aj)propriated, and from which it derives con? liable advantages. One is (dttoichi//, and the other circumcision, though neither of them h;'v > .iv connexion with religion. Tlie tattowing has been described already. Circumcision lias been adopted merely from motives of chaiiliiiess ; it ciinnot indeed properly be called circumcision, because the j>rc/>iicc is not mutilated by a circular wound, but only slit through M \ 7 JiLY, 17C9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD. priests of the the upper part to prevent its contracting over the iflans. As neither of these can he performed by any but a priest, and as to be without cither is the greatest disgi-ace, they may be con- sidered as a claim to surphce fees like our marriages and christenings, which arc cheerfully and liberally paid, not according to any settled stipend, but the rank and abilities of the parties or their friends. Sl'EClMEN OF TATT0WIN6. irou^h The Morai, as has already been observed, is at once a burying-ground and a place of worship, and in this particular our churches too much resemble it. The Indian, however, approaches his Morai with a reserence and hiunility that disgrace the Christian, not because he holds anything sacred that is there, but because he there worships an invisible divinity, for whom, though he neither hopes for reward nor fears punishment at his hand, he altvays expresses the profoundest homage and most humble adoration. I have already given a very particular description both of the Morais and the altars that are placed near them. When an Inditiii is about to worship at tlie Morai, or brings his ofiPering to tiie altar, he always imcovcrs his body to the waist, and his looks and attitude arc such as sufficiently express a corresponding disposition of mind. It did not appear to us that these people are, in any instance, guilty of idolatry ; at least they do not worship anything that is the work of their hands, nor any visible part of the creation. This island, indeed, and the rest that lie near it, have a particular bird some a heron, and others a kingfisher, to which they pay a peculiar regard, and concerning which they have some superstitious notions with respect to good and bad fortune, as we liave of the swallow and robin-redbreast, giving them the name of Eatua, and by no mean^ killing or molesting them ; yet they never address a petition to them, or approacli thci"-. v.itli any act of adoration. Though I dare not assert that these people, to whom the art of >vriting, an.l consequently tlic recording of laws, are utterly unknown, live undur a. regular form of government ; yet a subordination is established among them, that greatly resembles the early state of every nation in Europe under the feudal system, which secured liberty in the most licentious excess to a few and entailed the most abject slavery upon the rest. Their orders are Earee rnkie, which answers to king ; 7?lants ; but he observed some insects, and a species of scorpion which ho had not seen before. The inhabitants seem to be larger made and more stout than those of Otaheite. Mr. Banks measvred one of the men, and found him to be six feet three inches and a half high ; yet they are so lazy that he could not persuade any of them to go up the hills with him : they ?aid, if they were to attempt it, the fatigue would kill them. The women were very fair, more so than those of Otaheite; and in general we thought them more handsome, though nono that were equal to some individuals. Both sexes seemed to be less timid and less curious : it has been observed that they made no inquiries on board the ship, and when we fired a gun they were frighted indeed, but they did not fall down as our friends at Otaheite constantly did when we first came among them. For this difference, however, we can easily account ii])on other principles : the people at lluaheine had not seen the Dolphin, those at Otaheite had. In one, the report of a gun was connected with the idea of instant destruction ; to the other, there was nothing dreadful in it but the appearance and the sound, as they had never experienced its power of dispensing death. While we were on shore, we found that Tupia had commended them beyond their merit when lie said that they would not steal, for one of them was detected in the fact. But when he was seized by the hair, the rest, instead of running away, as the people at Otaheite would have done, gathered round, and inquired what provocation had been given : but this also may be accounted for without gJvinfif them credit for superior courage ; they had no experience of the consequences of Ec ., can resentment, wliich the people at Otaheite had in many instances purchased with life. It must, however, be acknowledged to their honour, that when they understood what had happened they showed strong signs of disapprobation, and prescribed a good beating for the thief, which was immediately administered. We now made sail for the island of Ulietea, which lics S.W. by W., distant seven or eight leagues from Huaheine, and at half an hour after six in the evening we were within three leagues of the shore, on the eastern side. We stood off and on all night, and when the day broke the next morning we stood in for the shore : we soon after discovered an opening in the reef which lies before the island, within which Tupia told us there was a good harbour. I did not, ho^^ever, implicitly take his word, but sent the master out in the pinnace to examine it ; he soon made the signal for the ship to follow ; we accordingly stood in and anchored in two-and-twenty fathom, with soft ground. The natives soon came off to us in two canoes, each of which brought a woman and a pig. The woman we supposed was a mark of confidence, and the pig was a present ; we received both with proper acknow- ledgments, and complimented each of the ladies with a spike-nail and some beads, much to their K.itisfaction. We were told by Tupia, who had always expressed much fear of the men of Bolabola that they had made a conquest of this island ; and that, if we remained here, 112 COOK'S FIRST voyagp: round the avorld. Jn.Y, 17GI). ' j '( * tlioy wouKl certainly conic down to-morrow and fight U8. "Wo dotcrniincil, therefore, to go on shore withont delay, while the day was onr own. I landed in company with ^Ir. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the other gentlemen, Tnpia being also of the party. lie introduced us by repeating the ceremonies which he had performed nt lluaheine, after which I hoisted an English jack, and took ])os9ession of this and the three neighboi'.ring isl.ands, lluaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola, which were all in sight, in the name of his Britannic JVIajesty. After this wo took a walk to a great ]\Iorai, calleii Ta])odeboatea. Wc found it very different from those of Otaheitc, for it consisted only of four walls, about eight feet high, of coral stones, some of which were of an immense size, inclosing an area of about five-and-twenty yards square, which was filled up with smaller stones ; upon the top of it many planks were set up on end, which were carved in their whole length : at a little distance we found an altar, or Ewhatta, upon which lay the last oblation or sacrifice, a hog of about eighty pounds weight, which had been offered whole, and very nicely roasted. Here were also four or five Ewharreno-Katua, or houses of God, to which carriage-poles were fitted like that which we had seen at lluaheine. One of tliesc Mv. Banks examined by putting his hand into it, and found a parcel about five feet long and one thick, wrapped up in mats : he broke a way through several of these mats with his fingers, but at length came to one which was made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, so firndy plaited together that ho found it impossible to tear it, and therefore was forced to desist, especially as he perceived that what he had done already gave great offence to our new friends. From hence we went to a long liouse, not far distant, where, among rolls of cloth and several other things, we saw the model of a canoe, about three feet long, to which were tied eight human jaw-bones : wo Iiad already learnt that these, like scalps among the Indians of North America, were trophies of war. Tupia affirmed that they were the jaw-bones of the natives of this island ; if so they might ' ■'e been hung up, with the model of a canoe, as a symbol of invasion, by the warriors of Bolabola, as a memorial of their conquest. Night now came on apace, but INIr. Banks and Dr. Solander continued their walk along the shore, and at a little distance saw another Ewharrc-no-Eatua, and a tree of the fig kind, the same as that which Mr. Green had seen at Otaheite, in great perfection, the trunk, or rather congeries of the roots, of which was forty-two paces in circumference. On the 21st, iiaving despatched the master in the long-boat to examine the coast of the south part of the island, and one of the mates in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the ship lay, I went myself in the pinnace to survey that part of the island which lies to the north. Mr, Banks and the gentlemen were again oh sliore, trading with the natives, and examining the products and curiosities of the country; they saw nothing, however, worthy notice, but some more jaw-bones, of which they made no doubt but that the account they had heard was true. On the 22nd and 23rd, having strong g.ales and hazj' weather, I did not think it safe to put to sea ; but on the 24th, though the wind was still variable, I got under sail, and plied to the northward within the reef, with a view to go out at a wider opening than that by which I had entered ; in doing this, however, I was unexpectedly in the niost imminent danger of striking on the rock : the master, whom I had ordered to keep continually sounding in the chains, suddenly called out " two fathom." This alarmed me, for though I knew the ship drew at least fourteen feet, and that tl'erefore it was impossible such a shoal should be under her keel ; yet the master was either mistaken, or she went along the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these islands are as steep as a wall. This harbour, or bay, is called by the natives Oopt A, and taken in its greatest extent, it is capable of holding any number of shipping, it extends almost the whole length of the east side of the island, and is defended from the sea by a reef of coral rocks : the southernmost opening in this reef, or channel into the harbour, by which we entered, is little more than a cable's length wide ; it lies off the easternmost part of the island, and may be known by another small woody island, which lies a little to the south- east of it, called by the people here Oatara. Between three and four miles north- west from this island, lie two other islets in the same direction as the reef of which {, 17C1). ■ p, to go 1 la being 1 rforined ic tlirco ^tn^i 10 iiaino ubuatca. s, about area of the top t a little SjBi 0, a liog j^M roasted. ^M ige-polcs ^M xaminecl ^M wrapped H xt length ^1 tlier that ^1 )erceived H we went ^1 !, \vc saw H )nes : wo ^1 3 trophies ^1 nd ; if so |H n, by the ^ , but INIr. « lance saw < ^1 Ir. Green L of which ' 1 itst of the 1 where the ' ■ ies to the M tivcs, and ^ r, worthy H ount they ■ it safe to ■ and plied n than that ■1 imminent U mtinually H though I 1 ch a shoal J r the edge 1 as a wall. M st extent, fl| lie length I al rocljs: ■ 5 entered, H le island, H he south- ■ es north- pn of which o Jui.v, 17(59. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 118 they arc a part, called Oi'URunu and Tajiou ; between those lies tlio other channel into tlio liarbour, through which I went out, and wliicli is a full quarter of a mile wide. Still fartlu>r to the north-west are some other small isliinds, near wliich I am told tliere is uuotlier small channel into the harbour; but this I know only by report. The jjrincipal refresh- ments that are to be procured at tins i)art of the iMlund are, ]^lantains, cocoa-nuts, yams, hogs, and fowls ; the hogs and fowls, however, are scarce ; and the country, where we saw it, is neither so populous nor so rich in ])roduco as Otnheite, or even Iluaheiiie. Wood and water may also be procured here ; but the water cannot conveniently be got at. Wo were now again at sea, without having received any interrui)tion from the hostilo iidiabitants of Bolabola, whom, notwithstanding tlio fears of Tupia, wo intended to visit. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 2i5tli, we were within a league of Otalia, wliich bore N. 77 ^^- To the northward of the south end ef that island, on the east side of it, and something more than a mile from the shore, lie two small islands, called Toaiioutu and Wiiennuaia; between which, Tupia says, there is a channel into a very good harbour, which lies within the reef, and appearances confirmed his report. As I discovered a broad channel between Otaha and Bolabola, I determined rather to go through it, than run to the northward of all ; but the wind being right ahead, I got no ground. Between five and six in the evening of the 2()th, as I w.as standing to the northward, I discovered a small low island, lying N. by W. or N.N.W. distant four or five leagues from Bolabola. We were told by Tupia that the name of this island is TuuAi ; that it ju-oduces nothing but cocoa-nuts, and is inhabited only by three families ; though it is visited by tho inhabitants of the neighbouring islands, who resort thither to catch fish, with which the coast abounds. On the 27th, about noon, the peak of Bolabola bore N. 25 W., and the north end of Otaha, N. 8() W., distant three leagues. The wind continued contrary all this day and tho night following. On the 28th, at six in the morning, we were near the entrance of tho harbour on tho east side of Otaha, which has been just mentioned ; and finding that it might bo examined without losing time, I sent away the master in the long-boat, with orders to sound it ; and if the wind did not shift in our favour, to land upon tho island, and traflic with tho natives for such refreshments as were to be had. In this boat went Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who landed upon tho island, and before night purchased three hogs, twenty-one fowls, and as many yams and plantains as the boat would hold. Plantains wo thought a more useful refreshment even than pork ; for they were boiled and served to the ship*'a company as bread, and were now the more acceptable as our bread was so full of vermin, that notwithstanding all possible care, we had sometimes twenty of them in our mouths at a time, every one of which tasted as hot as mustard. Tho island seemed to be more barren than UHetea, but the produce was of the same kind. The people also exactly resembled those that we had seen at tho other islands ; they were not numerous, but they flocked about the boat wherever she went from all quarters, bringing with them whatever they had to sell. They paid the strangers, of whom they had received an account from Tupia, tho same compliment which they used towards their own kings, uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their g.arments round their breasts ; and were so solicitous to prevent its being neglected by any of their people, that a man was sent with them, who called out to every one they met, telling him what they were, and what he was to do. In the mean time, I kept plying off and on, waiting for the boat's return ; at half an hour after five, not seeing anything of her, I firod a gun, and after it was dark hoisted a light ; at half an hour after eight, we heard the report of a musket, which wo answered with a gun, and soon after tho boat came on board. The master reported that the harbour was safe and commodious, with good anchorage from twenty-five to sixteen fathom water, clear ground. As soon as the boat was hoisted in, I made sail to tho northward, and at eight o'clock in the morning of the 29th, we were close under the Peak of Bolabola, which was high, rude, and craggy. As the island was altogether inaccessible in this part, and we found it impos- sible to weather it, we tacked and stood off, then tacked again, and after many trips did not weather the south end of it till twelve o'clock at night. At eight o'clock the next morning, we discovered an island, which bore from us N. 6.3° W. distant about eight leagues ; I 114 CC)()K'S FIRST VOYAfJE ROl'NI) THE WOULD. ^^^0. I'l I •; f. 'I ' at tlio same time tlio Poak of Diilalxila bore N. ^E., distant tlirco or four leagues. This island Tupia ealled MAirurA, and said tliat it was small, wholly surrounded by a reef, and without any harbour for shipjung ; but inhabited, and bearing the s.anio produce as tho neighbouring i»«1auda : the middle of it rises in a high round hill, that may be seen at tho distance of ten leagues. When wo were off Dolabola, we saw but few people on the shore, and were told by Tupia that many of the inhabitants were gone to Ulietea. In tho afternoon we found ourselves nearly tho length of the youth end of Ulietea, and to windward of some harbours that lay on the west side of this island. Into one of these harbours, though we had before been ashore on tho otlier side of the island, I intended to put, in order to stop a leak which wo had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in more ballast, as I found the ship too light to carry sail upon a wind. As the wind was right against us, we plied off one of tho harbours, and about three o'clock in tho afternoon, on the Ist of August, wo came to an anchor in tlio entrance of the channel leading into it, in fourteen fathom water, being ])reventcd from working in, by a tide which set very strong out. Wo then carried out tho kedge- anchor, in order to warp into the harbour; but when this was done, wo conld not trip the bower-anchor with all the purchase we could make ; we were therefore obliged to lio still all night, and in tho morning, when the tide turned, tho ship going over the anchor, it tripped of itself, and we warped tho ship into a proper berth with ease, and moored in twenty-eight fathom, with a sandy bottom. While this was doing, many of the natives came oft" to us with hogs, fowls, and plantains, which they parted with at an easy rate. Wiien the ship was secured, I went on shore to look for a proper place to get ballast and •water, boil; which I found in a very convenient situation. This day Mr. Danks and Dr. Solandcr spent on shore, very much to their satisfaction : every body seemed to fear and respect them, placing in them at the same time the utmost confidence, behaving as if conscious that they possessed tho power of doing them mischief, without any propensity to make use of it. Men, women, and children, crowded round e guilty of the least water in the way, J. They were con- a manner altosiether them, and followed tliem wherever they went ; but none of them incivility: on tho contrary, whenever there happened to bo d the men vied with each other to carry them over on their ^. ducted to the houses of the principal people, and were ; cccived »u new : tho people who followed them while they were in their way, rushed forward as soon as they came to a house, and went hastily in before them, leaving, however, a lane sufliciently wide for them to pass. When they entered, tiiey found those who had preceded them ranged on each side of a long mat, which was spread upon tho ground, and at tho farther end of which sat the family : in the first house they entered, they found some very young women or children, dressed with the utmost neatness, who kept their station, expecting the strangers to como up to them avl make them presents, which they did with the greatest pleasure ; for prettier children, or better dressed, they had never seen. One of them was a girl about six years old ; her gown or upper garment was red ; a large quantity of plaited hair was wound round her head, the ornament to which they give the name of Tamou, and which they value more than anything they possess. She sat at tho upper end of a mat thirty feet long, upon which none of tho spectators presumed to set a foot, notwithstanding tho crowd ; and she leaned upon the arm of a well-looking woman about thirty, who was probably her nurse. Our gentlemen walked up to her, and as soon as they approached, she stretched out her hand to receive the beads which they offered her, and no princess in Europe could have done it with a better grace. The people were so m''.ch gratified by the presents which were made to these girls, that when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr returned, they seemi \ attentive to nothing but how to oblige them : and in cue of the houses, they were, by order of the master, entertained with a dance different from any that they had seen. It was performed by one man, who put upon his head a largo cylindrical piece of wicker-work, or basket, about four feet long and eight inches in diameter, which was faced with feathers, placed perpendicularly, with the tops bending forwards, and edged round with sharks' teeth, and the tail-feathers of tropic birds : when he had put on this head-dress, which is called a Whow, he began to dance, I 1*09. Aiu. i;oo. COOK'S FIRST VOVACiE llOl'ND TMK AVOULD. II . This Off, ftiid I as tlio 1 at tlio ly Tnpia jiirselvra that lay ore been diich wo too liglit ic of tho no to an cr, being J out tho il not trip red to Ho anchor, it noored in tc natives easy rate. tuUast and tisfaction : ;hc utmost il mischief, dcd round )f the least tho way, were con- altoffcthcr orward as ■cr, a lano Id preceded ind at tho some very expecting lie greatest them was of plaited [amou, and jmat thirty mding tho who w^as )proached, )rincess in girls, that l)ut how to lined with who put [t long and with tho |s of tropic to dance, moving slowly, and often turning his head so as that the top of his higii witUer-cai) described a circle, and sometimes throwing it so near tho faces of the spectators as to make them htart back : this was held amon^f them as a very good joke, and never failed to i)rodiico a jieal of laughter, especially when it was )>Iayed off upon one of the strangers. On the Mnl, wc went along the shore to the nortlnvaril, which was in a direction ojiposito to tiiat of the route Mv. Ranks and Dr. Solander had taken the day before, with a design to purchase stock, which wo always found the i)eoplc more ready to part with, and at a more easy price, at their houses than at tho market. In tho course of our walk wo met with n company of dancers, who detained us two hours, and during all that time afforded us great entertainment. The company consisted of two women dancers and six men, with threo drums. Wo were informed by Tupia that they were some of the most considerable people of the island, and that, though they were continually going from place to place, they did not, like the little strolling compimics of Otahdite. take any gratuity from the spectators. Tho women had upon their heads a considerable quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, which was brought several times round the head, and adorned in many parts with the flowers of tho cape-jessamine, which were stuck in with nnich taste, and made a head-dress truly elegant. Their necks, shoulders, and arms were naked ; so were the breasts also, as low as the part- ing of tho arm ; below that they were covered with black cloth, which set close to the body. At the side of each breast, next the arm, was placed a small plume of black feathers, much in tho same manner as our ladies now wear their nosegays or lioitfjiuis. Upon their hips rested a quantity of cloth plaited very full, which reached up to the breast, raid fell down below into long petticoats, which quite concealed their feet, and which they managed with OS much dexterity as our opera-dancers could have done. Tho plaits above the waist were brown and white alternately ; tho petticoats below were all white. In this dress they adv.anced sideways in a measured stop, keeping excellent time to tho drums, which beat briskly iid loud ; soon after they began to shako their hips, giving tho folds of cloth that lay upon them a very quick motion, which was in some degree continued through tho whole dance, though the body was thrown into various postures, sometimes standing, sometimes sitting, and sometimes resting on their knees and olbowo, the fingera also being moved .at tho same time with a quickness scarcely to be imagined. Much of tho dexterity of the dancers, however, and the entertainment of the spectators, consisted in tho wantonness of their .attitudes and gestures, which was indeed such as exceeds all description. One of these girls had in her ear three pearls ; one of them was very large, but so foul that it was of little value ; the other two were as big as a middling pea ; these were clear, and of a good colour and shape, though spoiled by the drilling. JSIr. Banks would fain havo purchased them, and offered the owner anything she would ask for them, but she coidd not be persuaded to part with them at any price. He tempted her with the value of four hogs, and whatever else she should choose, but without success ; and indeed they set a value upon their pearls very nearly equal to what they would fetch among us, except they could be procured before they are drilled. Between tho dances of the women, the men performed a kind of dramatic interlude, in which there was di'' ogue as well as dancing; but we were not sufficiently acquainted with their language to understand the subject. On the 4th, some of our gentlemen saw a much more regular entertainment of the dramatic kind, which was divided into four acts. Tupia had often told us that he had large possessions in this island, which had been taken away from him by the inhabitants of Bolabola, and he now pointed them out in the very bay where the ship was at anchor. Upon our going on shore this was confirmed by the inhabitants, who showed us several districts, or Whennuas, which they acknowledged to be his right. On the 5tli, I received a present of three hogs, some fowls, several pieces of cloth, — tho largest we had seen, being fifty yards long, which they unfolded and displayed so as to mako the greatest show possible, — and a considerable quantity of plantains, cocoa-nuts, and other refreshments, from Opoony, the formidable king, or, in tiie language of the country, Earee rahic, of Bolabolo, with a message that he was at this time upon the island, and that the next day he intended to pay me a visit. In tho mean time JNIr. Banks and Dr. Sohander went upon the hills, accompanied by i2 M I, 'r i-l' H n 116 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Auo, 1700. :. I' several of the Indians, who conducted iliem by excellent paths to such a height that thc^ plainly saw the other side of the island, and the passage through which the ship liad passed tlie reef between the little islands of Opururu and Tanion, when we landed upon it th'i first time. As they were returning, they saw the Indians exercising themselves at wliat ;hey call Erow/iaic, which is nothing more than pitching a kind of light lance, headed witli hard wood, at a mark. In this am"sement, though they seem very fond of it, they do not excel ; for not above one in twelve struck th. mark, which was the bole of a plantain-tree, at about twenty yards distance. On the Gth, we all staid at home, expecting the visit of the great king, but we were aisappointed ; wo had, however, much more agreeable company, for he sent three very pretty girls to demand something in return for his present : perhaps he was unwilling to trust himself on board the ship, or perhaps he thought his messengers would procure a more valuable return for his hogs and poultry than he could himself; be that as it may, we did not regret his absence, nor his messengers their visit. In the afternoon, as the grca* king would not come to us, we detcraiined to go to the gre.at king. As he was lord of the Bola- bola men, the conquerors of this, and the terror of all the other islands, we expected to see a chief young and vigorous, w.Hh an intelligent countenance, and an enterprising spirit. We found, however, a poor feeble wretcl:, withered and decrepit, half blind with age, and so sluggish and stupid, that he appeared scarcely to have understanding eiough left to know that it was probable we should be gratified cither by hogs or women. He did not receive us sitting, or with any state or fortnality as the other chiefs had done. We made him our l■ i 1 no 114] ne\ - ThrerKmgJ^f fort niumgafnh v O iU ajt/. ^ .Efltnimtmm'''""^.''"""'^'^ ^^uaarivaf If J ] — ^^ ■ ,* AS. Qa« ■JItf. >?'"' ,--J''*5'*>K-«.ii/."''' M L y y :z f:^ LA ^J I) ■J'-./inB „/,• ,./AVl;(/(.«A .l/l/.M 'i .^JC- I ™ I ^rr r.:t^rj^ n<'\ Zcim;lft/rf«- i'i'l £/.rf /h'm ^y-*! litrnmiiii 171' J7S ii: M'.vA.' /...;/./..», /),/.((../i.-,/ /.// II .\,„i//i //:> n-,-/ Mi:.'i \40 1 D- ir, //"..//'." |R f ■ mI I vA i ' r ■ In ,' , fill 1 1 llll i ; [ X •I i , I'i I i.. I." . Oct. 1709. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 121 BOOK II. CIIAPTEIt I. — THE PASSAGE FHOM OTEROAH TO ^E^V ZEALAND — INCIDENTS WlllCn HAPPENED ON GOING ASUURE XIIERE, AND WniLl! TUE SHIP LAY IN POVERTY DAY. We sailed from Otcroah on tlie 1.5tli of August, and on Friday the 2i5th wo celebrated the anniversary of our leaving England, by taking a Cheshire cheese from a locker, where it had been carefully treasured up for this occasion, and tapping a cask of porter, which proved to bo very good, and in excellent order. On the 29th, one of the sailors got so drunk, that the next morning he died : we thought at first that he could not have conic honestly by the liquor, but we afterwards learned that the boatswain, whose mate he was, had, in mere good- nature, given him part of a bottle of rum. On the 30th, we saw the comet ; at one o'clock in the morning, it ^^•a8 a little above the horizon in the eastern part of the heavens ; at about half an hour after four it passed the meridian, and its tail subtended an angle of forty-two degrees. Our latitude was 30" 20' S. , our longitude, by log, 147° <>' W., and the variation of the needle, by the azimuth, 7° 9' E- Among others that observed the comet, was Tupia, who instantly cried out, that as soon as it should be seen by the people of Dolabola, they would kill the inhabitants of Ulietea, who would, with the utmost precipitation, fly to the mountains. On the 1st of September, being in the latitude of 40° 22' S., and longitude 147° 29' W., and there not being any signs of land, with a heavy sea from the westward, and strong gales, I wore, and stood back to the northward, fearing that we might receive such damage in our sails and rigging, as would hinder the prosecution of the voyage. On the next day, there being strong gales to the westward, I brought to, with the ship's head to the north- ward ; but in the morning of the 3rd, the wind being more moderate, we loosened the reef of the main-sail, set the top-sails, and plied to the westward. We continued our course till the 19th, when our latitude being 29°, and our longitude 159° 29', we observed the variation to be 8° 32' E. On the 24th, being in latitude 33° 18', longitude 162° 51' we observed a small piece of sea-weed, and a piece of wood covered with barnacles : the variation here was 10° 48' E. On the 27th, being in latitude 28° 59', longitude 169° 5', we saw a seal asleep upon tlio water, and several bunches of sea- weed. The next day we saw more sea-weed in bunches, and on the 29th, a bird, which we thought a land-bird; it somewhat resembled a snipe, but had a short bill. On the 1st of October, we saw birds innumerable, and another seal asleep upon the water ; it is a general opinion, that seals never go out of soundings, or far from land, but those that we saw in these seas prove the contrary. Rock- weed is, however, a certain indication that land is not far distant. The next day, it being calm, we hoisted out the boat, to try whether there was a current, but found none. Our latitude was 37° 10', longitude 172° 54' W. On the 3rd, being in latitude 36° 56', longitude 173° 27', we took up more sea-weed, and another piece of wood covered with barnacles. The next day, we saw two more seals, and a brown bird, about as big as a raven, with some white feathers under the wing. Jlr. Gore told us, that birds of this kind were seen in great numbers about Falkland's Islands, and our people gave them the name of Port Egmont hens. On the 5th. ve thought the water changed colour, but, upon casting the lead, had no ground with 180 fathom. In the evening of this day, the variation was 12° .50' E., and, while we were going nine leagues, it increased to 14° 2'. On the next day, Friday, October the 6th, we saw land from the mast-head, bearing W. by N., and stood directly for it ; in the evening, it could just bo discerned from the deck, and appeared large. The variation mi •,k\\ 1 prr^ is> COOK'S FIHST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Oct. 1700. • i: I' ' this day was, by aiciiiiiitli and amplitude, 15° ^c^ E., and by ubscrvatiun made of the sun and moon, the longitudo of tlio ship appeared to bo 180° Cut' W., and by the medium of tliis and subsoquuiit observations, there appeared to be an error in the ship's account of longitudo during her run from Otalieito of 3' 1(5', she being so much to the westward of the longitudo resulting from the log. At midnight, I brought to and sounded, but had no ground with one hundred and seventy fathom. On the 7tli) it fell calm, wo therefore approached tho land slowly, and in the afternoon, when a breeze spnmg up, wo were still distant seven or eight leagues. It appeared still larger as it was more distinctly seen, with four or five ranges of hills, rising one over the other, and a chain of mountains abovo all, which appeared to bo of an enormous height. This land became the subject of much eager conversation ; but the general opinion seemed to bo that wo had found tho Terra austraUs incot/nlta. About five o'clock, wo saw tho opening of a bay, which seemed to run pretty fur inland, upon which wo hauled our wind and stood in for it ; we also saw snioko ascending from dift'orent places on shore. When night came on, however, we kept plying off and on till day -light, wiien we found ourselves to the leeward of tho bay, the wind being at north : we could now perceive that the hills were clothed with wood, and that some of the trees in the valleys were very large. By noon we fetcliod in with tho south-west point ; but not being able to weather it, tacked and stood off: at this time wo saw several canoes standing across the bay, which, in a littlo time, made to shore, without seeming to take the least notice of the sliip ; we also saw somo houses, which appeared to be small, but neat ; and near one of them a considerable number of the people collected together, w.ho were sitting upon the beach, and who, wo thought, were tho same that we had seen in the canoes. Upon a small peninsula, at tho north-east head, we could plainly perceive a pretty high and regular paling, which inclosed tho whole top of a hill ; this was also the subject of much speculation, some supposing it to be a park of deer, others an inclosurc for oxen and sheep. About four o'clock in tho afternoon, wo anchored on t'lo north-west side of the bay, before the entrance of a small river, in ten fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom, and at about half a league from the shore. Tho sides of the bay are white cliffs of a great height ; tho middle is low land, with hills gradually rising behind, one towering above another, and terminating in tho chain of mountains, which appeared to be far inland. In the evening I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with tho pinnace and yawl, and a party of men. We landed abreast of the ship, on tho east side of the river, which was here al)OHt forty yards broad ; but seeing somo natives on the west side whom I wished to speak with, and finding tho river not fordable, I ordered tho yawl in to cany us over, and left tho pinnace at the entrance. When wo came near the place where tho people wore assembled, they all ran away; however, we landed, and leaving four boys to take care of the yawl, we walked up to some huts which were about two or three hundred yards from the water-side. When we had got some distance from the boat, four men, armed with long lar^es, rushed out of the woods, and running up to attack tho boat, would certainly have cut her off, if the j)cople in the pinnace had not discovered them, and called to the boys to drop down the stream : the boys instantly obeyed ; but being closely pursued by the Indians, the cockswain of tho pinnace, w^ho had the charge of the boats, tired a musket over their heads ; at this they stopped and looked round them, but in a few minutes renewed the pursuit, brandishing their lances in a threatening manner: tho cockswain then fired a second musket over their heads, but of this they took no notice ; and one of them lifting up his spear to dart it at the boat, another piece was fired, which shot him dead. When he fell, the other three stood motionless for some minutes, as if petrified with astonishment; as soon as they recovered, they went back, dragging after them the dead body, which, however, they soon left, that it might not encumber their flight. At the report of tho first musket, we drew together, having straggled to a little distance from each other, and made the best of our way back to tlio boat ; and crossing the river, we soon saw the Indian lying dead upon the ground. Upon examining the body, wc found that he had been shot through the heart : he was a man of the middle size and stature ; his complexion was brown, but not very dark ; and one side of his face was tattooed in spiral Oct. iroo. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 123 lines of a very regular figure : he was covcrcil with a fine cloth, of a manufacture nltogethcr now to us, and it was tied on exactly according' to the representation in Valentyn's Account of Abel Tasnian's Voyage, vol. iii., part 2, page 50 : his hair also was tied in a knot on the top of his head, hut had no feather in it. SVc returned iinincdiately to the ship, where we could hear the people on shore talking with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone, probably about what had happened, and what should bo done *. In the morning, wo saw several of the natives where they had been seen the night before, and some walking with a quick pace towards tho place where we had landed, most of them unarmed ; but three or four with long pikes in their han! ■' * Mr. Pulack, in liis " Narrative of Travels and Ad- vi'Mtnrca during a residence in New Zealand lictwcen tlio years 1831 and llli)7," gives tlic following particulars respecting tliis affair : — " In relating Cook's transactions in this bay, I must also mention the account given nio by Manutai, grandson of To Ratu, a principal chief, wlio headed tlic attack on tlic Englishmen, and was tho first native liillcd by Europeans, which was done in self-de- fence. It appears that the tribes who now assaulted Cook had not been long in possession of tho land, as they were originally a party of strangers from the southward, who had made war on the inhabitants of the ]ilnce, and had defeated and destroyed thciu. This decisive battle had taken jihice but a very few years previously to the arrival of Cook, and To Katu had been one of the principal war- riors. Anotlicr chief was shot in the shoulder ; this man recovered, and had died within a few years previously to my visiting those localities in I83C. I saw the son of tliis wounded warrior, an elderly man, who pointed ont to mc, on his body, the spot whero tho ball had passed through tho shoulders of his father. Cook's sliip was at first taken lor a bird by the natives ; and many remaiks passed among tliem as to tiic beauty and size of its wings, as the sails of this novel sjiccinien in ornitliolopiy were supposed to be. But on seeing a smaller bird, iinllcdgcd (without sails) descending into the water, and a number of party-coloured beings, but apparently in the liuman shape, also descending, the bird was regarded us a house- ful of divinities. Nothing could exceed the astonishment of tlic natives." When their leader w.as killed, " the manner of his unseen death was ascribed to !\ thunderbolt from these new gods ; and the noise made by the disehai-ges of tho muskets was represented as the watitiri, or thunder, which accompanies that sublime phenomcMon. To revenge them- selves was the dearest wish of the tribe ; l)iit how to arcomplish it with divinities who eoiild kill them at a distance witlu)ut even approaching to them, was didicult to determine. Many of tlicse natives obsers'cd that they felt themselves taken ill by only being particularly looked upon by these Atuas. It w.is therefore agreed, that, as these new comers could bewitch with a single look, tho sooner their society was dismissed, tho better it would bo for the general welfare." This accounts for the determined hostility of the men in tho boat, mentioned a little further on, one of whom must have been the person mintioned by Mr. I'olaek, as shot tlirough tlie shoulders; as, by Cook's account, the two men shot on the first and second encounter with the natives, were undoubtedly killed outright. — Ed. 1 il IM COOKS FIU8T VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Oct. 1700. tliom a1'. presents of iron and beads ; but tlioy seemed to set littlo vnlito upon cither, particu- larly tlio iron, not liaving tlio least idea of its use ; so tliat we got notliin); in return but a few featliera : tlioy oflcred indeed to cxcliango tlieir arms for ours, and when wo refused, made many nttcni])t8 to snatch theni out of our hands. A» soon as they caniu over, Tupia repeated his declaration, tliat they were not our friends, and again warned us to bo npon our guard ; their atteni])ts to snatcti our weapons, therefore, did not succeed ; and wo gave them to understand by Tupia, that wu should bo obliged to kill them if tlioy ottered any farther violence. In a few minutes, however, ]SIr. CJreon happening to turn about, one of them snatched away his hanger, and retiring to a little distance, waved it round his hoad, with a shout of exultation : tho rust now began to bo extremely insolent, and wo saw moro coming to join them from the opposite side of tho river. It was therefoio become necessary to repress them, and Mr. Hanks tired at tho man who had taken tho hanger, with small shot, at tho distance of about fifteen yards : when tho shot struck him, ho ceased his cry ; but instead of returning the hanger, continued to flourish it over )iis head, at tho samo time slowly retreating to a greater distance. Mr. Alonkhouso seeing this, fired at him with ball, and 'le instantly dropped. U])on this the main body, who had retired to a rock in the miduic of the river upon tho first discharge, begon to return ; two that were near to tho man who had been killed, ran up to the body, one seized his weapon of green tale, and tho other endeavoured to secure the hanger, which Mr. Monkhouso had but just time to provent. As all that had retired to tho rock were now advancing, three of us discharged our pieces, loaded only with small shot, upon which they swam back for tho shore ; and w „• perceived, upon their landing, that two or three of them were wounded. They retired slowly up tho country, and we reinibarked in our boats. As we had unhappily experienced, that nothing was to bo done with these people at this place ; and finding the water in the river to be salt, I proceeded in the boats round the head of tho bay in search of fresh water, and with a design, if possible, to surprise some of tho natives, and take them on board, where, by kind treatment and presents, I might obtain their friendship, and by their means establish au amicable correspondence with their countrymen. To my great regret, I found no place where I could land, a dangerous surf evriy wlieve beating upon tho shore; but I Si\w two canoes coming in from tho sea, one imi^'^r s.'!!, and the other worked with paddles. I thought this a favourable opportunity to get some of tho people into my possession without mischief, as those in the canoe were probably fishermen, and without arms, and I had three boats full of men. I therefore disposed the boats so as most cflFectualiy to intercept them in their way to the shore ; the people in tho canoe that was paddled perceived us so soon, that, by making to the nearei.ii land with tlieir utmost strength, they escaped us ; the other sailed on till she was in the midst of us without discerning what wo were; but the moment she discovered us, the people on board struck their sail, and took to their paddles, which they ])lied so briskly that she out-ran the boat. They were, however, within hearing, and Tupia called out to them to come along-side, and promised for us that they should come to no hurt : they chose, however, rather to trust to tlieir paddles than our promises, and continued to make from us with all their power. I then ordered a musket to be fired over their heads, as the least exceptionable expedient to accomplish my design, hoping it would cither make them surrender, or leap into the water. Upon the discharge of the piece, they ceased paddling ; and all of them, being seven in number, began to strip, as we imagined, to jump overboard : but it happened otherwise. They immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight ; and when the boat came up, they began tho attack with their paddles, and with stones and other offensive weapons that were in tho boat, so vigorously, that we were obliged to fire upon them in our own defence ; four were unhappily killed, and the other three, who were boys, the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water ; the eldest swam with great vigour, and resisted the attempts of our people to take him into the boat by every eflbrt that he could make : he was however, at last overpowered, find the other two were taken up with less difficulty. I am conscious that the feeling of every reader of humanity will cen- sure mc for having fired upon these unhappy people, and it is impossible that, upon a calm 1 Oct. lyno. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROrNl) THE WORLD. 125 review, I shotild approve it myself. Tliey cortninly did not deserve dcatli for not clioosinp; to confide in my jironiises ; or not eonsenting to come on board my boat, ever, if tliej 1..11I apprelien''ed no danger ; bnt the nature of my service required nie to obtain a knowK 'Ijje of tlieir country, whicli I could no otherwise eHeet than by forcing; my way into it in a hostilo iManncr, oi' gaining admit^sion through the confidence antl good-will of the people. I had al.-eaily tried the power of jjresents without efteet ; and I wa>< now prompted, by my desiro to ivoid further hostilitic?, to get some of them on board, as the only method left of con- vini'ing them that we intended tiu-m no harm, and bad it in our power to contribute to their gratification anii convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly werj not crimin.d ; and thougii in the 'contest, which I had not the least reasr.n to expect, our victory might bavo been complete without so great an expense of life ; yet in such situntions, when the command to fire has been giv:"i, no man can restrain its excess, or ])re8cribe its effect. As 8«>on as the pom >vretcliei' whom wc bad taken out of the water were in the boat, they sipiatted down, expecting no di.ubt instantly to bu jmi co death : wo made haste to couvinco tliem of the contrary, by every method in our power ; wc furnished them with clothes, and gave them every other testimony of kindness that could remove their fears and engage their good-will. Those wlio arc acquainted with human nature will not wonder, that the sudden joy of these young savages at being unexpectedly delivered from the fear of death, and kindly treated by those wl.om they supposed would bavo been their instant executioners, surmounted their concern for the friends they had lost, and was strongly expressed in their countenances and behaviour. Before we reached the ship, their suspicions and fears being wholly removed, they appeared to bo not only reconciled to their situation, but in high spirits, and upon being offered some bread when they came on board, they devoured it with a voracious appetite. They answered and asked many questions, with great appearance of pleasure and curiosity ; and when our dinner came, they expressed an inclination to taste every thing that they saw : they seemed best pleased with the salt pork, though we had other provisions upon the table. At sun-set, they ate another meal with great eagerness, each devouring a large quantity of bread, and drinking above a quart of water. "NVe then made them beds upon the lockers, and they went to sleep with great seeming content. In the night, however, the tumult of their minds having subsided, and given way to reflection, they sighed often and loud. Tupia, who was always upon the watch to coujfort them, got up, and by soothing and encouragement, made them not only easy but cheerful ; their cheerfulness was encouraged so that they sung a song Avith a degree of taste that surprised us : the tunc was solemn and slow, like those of our Psalms, containing many note? and semi-tones. Their ccmntcnanccs were intelligent and expressive, and the middlemost, who seemed to be about fifteen, had an openness in his aspect, and an ease in his deportment, which were very striking : we found that the two eldest were brothers, and that their names were TAAnooRANGE and Koikeranoe ; the name of the youngest was Maraoovete. As we were returning tc the ship, after having taken these boys into the boat, we i)iekcd up a large piece of pumice-stone floating upon the water ; a sure sign that there either is, or has been, a volcano in this neighbourhood. In the morning they all seemed to be cheerful, and ate another enormous meal j after this we dressed them, and adorned them with bracelets, anklets, and necklaces, after their own. fashion, and the boat being hoisted ont, they were told that we were going to set them ashore ; this produced a transport of joy ; but upon perceiving that we made towards our first landing-place near the river, their countenances changed, and they entreated with great earnestness that they might not be set ashore .at that place, because they said it was inha- bited by their enemies, who would kill them and eat them. This was a great disappointment to me, because I hoped the report and appearance of the boys would procure a favourable reception for ourselves. I had already sent an officer on shore with the marines and a party of men to cut wood, and I was determined to land near the place ; not. however, to abandon the boys, if, when wo got on shore, they should be unwilling to leave us ; but to send a boat with them in the evening to that part of the bay to which they pointed, and which they call their home. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, were with me, and upon our landing with the boys, and crossing the river, they seemed at first to be unwilling to leave 'i W H 'if k m i\r ?ii i: 120 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Oct. 17C0. P- U us ; but at length t'>cy suddenly changed their mind, and, though not without a manifest struggle and some tears, they took their leave ; when they were gone we proceeded along a swamp, with a design to shoot some ducks, of which wc saw great plenty, and four of the marines attended us, walking abreast of us upon a bank that overlooked the country. After we had advanced about a mile, these men called out to us and told us, that a large body of the Indians was in sight and advancing at a great rate. Upon receiving this intelligence wo drew together, and resolved to make the best of our way to the boats ; wo had scarcely begun to put this into execution, when the three Indian boys started suddenly from some bushes, where they had concealed themselves, and again clrimed our protection ; we readily received tliem, and repairing to the beach as the clearest place, we walked briskly towards the boats. The Indians were in two bodies ; one ran along the bank which had been quitted by the marines, the other fetched a compass by the swamp, so that we could not see them : when they perceived that we had formed into one body they slackened their pace, but still followed us in a gentle walk ; that they slackened their pace, was for us as well as for them, a fortunate circumstance ; for when we came to the side of the river, where we expected to find the boats that were to carry us over to the wooders, we f jund the pinnace at least a mile from her station, having been sent to pick up a bird which had been shot by the officer on shore, and the little boat was obliged to make three trips before we could all get over to the rest of the party. As soon as we were drawn up on the other side, the Indians came down, not in a body as wo expected, but by two or three at a time, all armed, and in a short time their number increased to about two hundred : as wo now despaired of making peace with them, seeing that the dread of our small arms did not keep them at a distance, and that the ship was too far off to reacli the place with a shot, we resolved to re-embark, lest our stay should embroil us in another quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. We therefore advanced towards the pinnace, which was now returning, when one cf the boys suddenly cried out that his imcle was among the people who had marched down to us, and desired us to stay and talk with them ; we complied, and a parley immediately commenced between them and Tupia ; during which the boys held up everything wo had given them as tokens of our kindness and liberality ; but neither would cither of the boys swim over to them, or any of them to the boys. The body of the man who had been killed the day before still lay exposed upon the beacli ; the boys seeing it lie very near us, went up to it, and covered it with some of the clothes that we had given them ; and soon after a single man, unarmed, who proved to bo the uncle of Maragovete, the youngest of the boys, swam ever to us, bringing in his hand a green branch, which we supposed, as well hero as at Otaheite, to be an emblem of peace. We received his branch by the hands of Tupia, to whom he gave it, and made him many presents ; wo also invited him to go on board the ship, but ho declined it ; we therefore left him, and expected that bis nephew and the two other young Indians would have staid with him, but to our great surprise, they chose rather to go with us. As soon as we had retired he went and gathered another green branch, and with tins in his hand, ho approached the dead body which the youth had covered with part of his clothes, walking sideways, with many ceremonies, and then throwing it towards him. When this was done, ho returned to his companions, who had sat down upon the sand to observe the issue of his negotiation : they immediately gathered round him, and continued in a body above an hour, without seeming to take any farther notl'^e of us. We were more curious than they, and observing them with our gbisses from on board the ship, wo saw some of them cross the river upon a kind of raft, or catamarine, and four of them carry off ihe dead body which had been covered by the boy, and over which his uncle had performed the ceremony of the branch, upon a kind of bier, between four men ; the other body was still suffered to remain where it had been first left. After dinner I directed Tupia to ask the boys if they had now any objection to going ashore, where we had left their uncle, the body having been carried off, which we understood was a ratification of peace ; they said, they had not ; and the bo.it being ordered, thoy went into it with great alacrity : when the boat, in which I had sent two midshipmen, came to land, they went willingly ashore; but soon after she put off they returncl to the rocks, and wading into the water, earnestly entreated to be taken on board again ; but the people in Oct. 1709. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 127 the boat liavinc positive orders to leave them, could not comply. We were very attentive to what happened on shore, and keeping a constant watch with onr glasses, we saw a man pass the river upon anotiier raft, and fetch them to a place where forty or fifty of the natives were assembled, who closed round tlunn, and continued in the same place till sun-set : upon looking a^^ain, when we saw them in motion, wc could plainly distinguish our three prisoners, who separated themselves from the ret t, came down to the beach, and having waved their hands three times towards the ship, ran nimbly back and joined their companions, who walked leisurely away towards that part which the boys had pointed to as their dwelling- place ; wo had therefore the greatest reason to believe that no mischief would happen to them, especially as wc perceived that they went oif in the clothes wo iiad given them. After it was dark loud voices were heard on shr.e in the bottom of the bay as usual, of wliich wc could never learn the meaning. I but ho lor yoimg go with with this art of his When observe in a body curious some of the dead med the was still to going iderstood ley went came to )cks, and eople in CHAPTER II. A DESCRIPTION OP POVERTY BAY, AND THE FACE OP THE ADJACENT COUNTRY. THE RANGE FROM THENCE TO CAPE TURNAGAIN, ANI> HACK TO TOLAGO J WITH SOME ACCOUNT OP THE PEOPLE AND THE COUNTRY, AND SEVERAL INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED ON THAT PART OF THE COAST. The next morning, at six o'clock, wc weighed, and stood away from this unfortunate and inhospitable place, to which I gave the name of Poverty Bay, and which by the natives is called Ta-one-roa, or the Long Sand, as it did not afford us a single article that we wanted, except a little wood *. It lies in latitude 38" 42' S., and longitude 181" .30' W. ; it is in the form of an horse-shoe, and is known by an island lying close under the north-cast point. The two points which form the entrance are high, with steep white cliffs, and lie a league and a half or two leagues from each other, N. E. by E., and S. W. by W. : the depth of water in the bay is from twelve to five fathom, with a sandy bottom and good anchorage ; but the situation is open to the wind between the south and east. Boats can go in and out of the river at any time of the tide in fine weather ; but as there is a bar at the entrance, no boat can go either in or out when the sea runs high : the best place to attempt it is on the north- east side, and it is there practicable when it is not so in any other part. The shore of the bay, a little within its entrance, is a low flat sand ; behind which, at a small distance, the face of the country is finely diversified by hills and valleys, all clothed with wood, and covered with verdure. The country also appears to be well inhabited, especially in the valleys leading up from the bay, where we daily saw smoke rising in clouds one behind another to a great distance, till tiie view terminated in mountains of a stupendous height. The south-west point of the bay I named Young Nick's Head, after Nicholas Young, the boy who first saw tlie land. At noon it bore N. W. by W., distant about three or four leagues, and wo were then about three miles from the shore. The main land extended from N. E. by N. to south, and I proposed to follow the direction of the coast to the southward as far as the latitude of 40 or 41 ; and then, if I met witli no encouragement to proceed fciLaer, to return to the northward. In the afternoon we lay becalmed, which the people on shore perceiving, several canoea put off, and came within less than a quarter of a mile of the vessel, but could not be persuaded to come nearer, though Tupia <^xerted all the powers of his lungs and his eloquence upon the occasion, shouting and promising tliat they should not be hurt. Another canoe was now seen coming from Poverty Bay, with only four i)eople on board, one of whom we well remembered to have seen in our first interview upon the rock. This canoe, without stop- ping, or taking the least notice of tlie others, came directly alongside of the ship, .and with very little persuasion wc got the Indians on board. Their example was soon followed by the rest, and we had about us seven canoes, and about fifty men. We made them all presents with a liberal hand ; notwithstanding which, they were so desirous to have more of our * The true nnme of this place is Tutnnga ; any eiuidy spot liaving tlio appellation of OnS or Oni, Sund attaclinl to it, " From tlie valuable ngiicultural imture of tiic country in its vicinity, it merits," says Jlr. Polack, " nny otiicr iiouio than Poverty,"— Ed m ii I I I i' I I: ^ 12B COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Oct. 17Ca. , ,' t commodities, that they sold us everything they had, even the clothes from their backs and the paddles from their boats. Tliere were but two weapons among them ; these were the instruments of green talc, which were shaped somewhat like a pointed battledore, with a short handle and shai'p edges; they were called Patoo-j>atoo, and were well contrived for close fighting, as they would certainly split the thickest skull at a single blow. Wiien these people had recovered from the first impressions of fear, which, notwithstand- ing their resolution in coming on board, had manifestly thrown them into some confusion, ■we inquired after our poor boys. The man who first came on board immediately answered, that they were unhurt, and at home ; adding, that he had been induced to venture on board by the account which they had given him of the kindness with which they had been treated, and the wonders which were contained in the ship. While they were on board they showed every sign of friendship, and invited us very cordially to go back to our old bay, or to a small cove which they pointed out, that was not quite so far off; but I chose rather to prosecute my discoveries than go back, having reason to hope that I should find a better harbour than any I had yet seen. About an hour before sun-set, the canoes put oflf from the ship with the few paddles they had reserved, which were scarcely sufficient to set them on shore ; but, by some means or other, three of their people were left behind. A' soon as we discovered it, we hailed them, but not one of them would return to take them on board. This greatly surprised us ; but wc were surprised still more to observe that the deserted Indians did not seem at all uneasy at their situation, but entertained us with dancing and singing after their manner, ate their suppers, and went quietly to bed. A light breeze springing up soon after it was dark, we steered along the shore under an easy sail till midnight, and then brought to ; soon after which it fell calm. We were now some leagues distant from the place where the canoes had left us ; and at day -break, when the Indians perceived it, they were seized with consternation and terror, and lamented their situation in loud complaints, with gestures of despair, and many tears. Tupia, with great difficulty, pjicified them ; and about seven o'clock in the morning, a light breeze springing up, we continued to stand south-west along the shore. Fortunately for our poor Indians, two canoes came off about this time, and made towards the ship ; they stopped, however, at a little distance, and seemed unwilling to trust themselves nearer. Our Indians were greatly agitated in this state of unc .rtninty, and urged their fellows to come alongside of the ship, both by their voice and gestures, with the utmost eagerness and impatience. Tupia inter- preted what they said, and we were much surprised to find that, among other arguments, tiiey assured the people in the canoes we did not eat men. We now began seriously to believe that this horrid custom pi'cvailed among them ; for what the boys had said we consi- dered as a mere hyperbolical expression of their fear. One of the canoes, at length, ventured to come under the ship's side, and .an old man came on board, who seemed to be a chief, from the finery of his garment and the superiority of his weapon, which was a Patoo-patoo made of bone that, as he said, had belonged to a w^hale. He staid on board but a short time ; and when he went away, he took with him our guests, very much to the satisfaction both of them and us. At the time when wc sailed, we were abreast of a point from which the land trends S.S.W., and which, on account of its figure, I called Cape Table. This point lies seven leagues to the southward of Poverty Bay, in latitude 39" 7' S., and longitude Hil" 36' W. ; it is of a considerable height, makes a sharp angle, and appears to be quite flat at the top. In steering along the shore to the southward of the Cape, at the distance of two or three miles, our soundings were from twenty to thirty fathom, having a chain of rocks between us and the shore, which appeared at different heights above the water. At noon, Cape Table bore N. 20 E., distant about four leagues ; and a small island, which was the southernmost land in sight, bore S. 70 W., at the distance of about three miles. This island, which the natives call Teahowray, T named tiio Island of Poktland, from its very great resemblance to Portland, in the English Channel. It lies about a mile from a point on the main ; but there appears to he a ridge of rocks, extending nearly, if not quite, from one to the other. N. 57 E., two miles from the south point of Portland, lies a sunken rock, A Oct. 17Ca. backs .and ! were the •e, with a trivcd for iri til stand- confusion, answered, ! on board n treated, jy showed to a small proseciito bour than idles they ! means or iled them, d us ; but all uneasy ', ate their ! under an were now eak, when snted their with great springing tr Indians, wwever, at re greatly the ship, ipia inter- rguments, sriously to we consi- , ventured )e a chief, itoo-patoo a short atisfaction Oct. 17C9. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 129 md trends ies seven » 36' W. ; t the top. o or three etwecu us upon which the sea breaks with great violence. "We passed between this rock and the land, having from seventeen to twenty fathom. In sailing along the shore, we saw the natives assembled in great numbers as well upon Portland island as the main. We could also distinguish several spots of ground that were cultivated ; some seemed to bo fresh turned up, and lay in furrows like ploughed land ; and some had plants upon them in different stages of their growth. We saw also, in two places, high rails upon the ridges of hills, like what we had seen upon the peninsula at the north-east head of Poverty Bay. As they were ranged in lines only, and not so as to inclose an area, we could not guess at their use, and therefore supposed they might be the work of superstition. About noon another canoe apj)carcd, in which were four men ; she came within about a quarter of a mile of us, where the people on board seemed to perform divers ceremonies : one of them, who was in the bow, sometimes seemed to ask and to offer peace, and some- times to threaten war, by brandishing a weapon that he held in his hand : sometimes also he danced, and sometimes he sung. Tupia talked much to him, but could not persuade him to come to the ship. Between one and two o'clock we discovered land to the westward of Portland, extending to the southward as far as we could see; and as the ship was hauling round the south end of the island, she suddenly fell into shoal water and broken p-ound : we had indeed always seven fathom or more, but the soundings were never twice tlie same, jumping at once from seven fathom to eleven ; in a short time, however, we got clear of all danger, and had again deep water under us. At this time the island lay within a mile of us, making in white cliffs, and a long spit of low land running from it towards the main. On the sides of these cliffs sat vast numbers of people, looking at us with a fixed attention ;' and it is probable that they perceived some appearance of hurry and confusion on board, and some irregularity in the working of the ship, while we were getting clear of the shallow water and broken ground, from which they might infer that we were alarmed or in distress : we thought that they wished to take advantage of our situation, for five canoes were put off with the utmost expedition, full of and well armed : they came so near, and showed so hostile a disposition by shouting. men. brandishing their lances, and using threatening gestures, that we were in some pain for our small boat, which was still employed in sounding : a musket was therefore fired over them, but finding it did them no h.arm, they seemed rather to be provoked than intimidated, and I therefore fired a four-pounder, charged with grape-shot, wide of them : this had a better effect ; upon the report of the piece they all rose up and shouted, but instead of continuing the chase, drew all together, and after a short consultation, went quietly away. Having got round Portland, we hauled in for the land N. W. having a gentle breeze at N. E. which about five o'clock died away, and obliged us to anchor ; we had one-and- twcnty fathom, with a fine sandy bottom : the south point of Portland bore S. E. j S. distant about two leagues, and a low point on the main bore N. i E. In the same direc- tion with this low point, there runs a deep bay, behind the land of which Cape Table is the extremity, so as to make this land a peninsula, leaving only a low narrow neck between that and the main. Of this peninsula, which the natives call Tehakako*, Cape Table is the north point, and Portland the south. While we lay at anchor, two more canoes came off to us, one armed, and the other a small fishing-boat, with only four men in her ; they came so near that they entered into conversation with Tupia; they answered all the ques- tions that he asked them with great civility, but could not bo persuaded to come on board ; they came near enough, however, to receive several presents that v^ere thrown to them from the ship, with which they seemed much pleased, and went away. During the night many fires were kept upon shore, probably to show us that the inhabitants were too much upon their guard to be surprised. About five o'clock in the morning of the 13th, a breeze springing up northerly, wo weighed, and steered in for the land. The shore here forms a large bay, of which Portland is the north-east point, and the bay, that runs behind Cape Table, an arm. This arm I had \i n i '(■ I i * A miatakc for Is'ukukimnm. — Ed. 130 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Oct. 17C9. wM 1 H H ■m a great inclination to examine, bcdauso there apjjearcd to he safe anchorage in it, but not heino' sure of that, and the wind being right on end, I was uuvvilling to spare the time. Fcnr-and-twenty fathom was the greatest deptli within Portland, bnt the ground was every- where clear. Tlie land near the shore is of a moderate height, with white cliffs and sandy beaches ; within, it rises into mountains, and upon the whole the surface is hilly, for tho most part covered with wood, and to apjicarance pleasant and fertile. In the morning nine canoes came after tho ship, but whether witli peaceable or liostilo intentions we could not tell, for wc soon left them behind us. In tho evening wc stood in for a place that had tho appearance of an opening, bnt found no harbour ; we therefore stood out again, and were soon followed by a large canoe, with eighteen or twenty men, all armed, who, though they could not reach us, shouted defiance, and brandislied their weapons, with many gestures of mcn.acc and insult. In the morning wc had a view of the mountains inland, upon which the snow was still lying : the coimtry near the shore was low and unfit for cult)ire, but in one ])lacc wc per- ceived a patch of somewhat yellow, which had greatly the aiipearance of a corn-field, yet was probably nothing more than some dead flags, which are not uncommon in swampy places : at some distance wo saw groves of trees, which appeared high and tapering, and being not above two leagues from the south-west cod of the great bay, in which wc had been coasting for the two last days, I hoisted out the pinnace and long-boat to search for freshwater; but just as they were about to put off, we saw several boats full of people coming from the shore, and, therefore, I did not think it safe for them to leave the ship. About ten o'clock, five of thcso boats having drawn together, as if to hold a consultation, made towards the ship, having op board between eighty and ninety men, and four more followed at some distance, as if to sustain the attack : when the first five came within about a hundred yards of tlie ship, they began to sing their war-song, and brandishing their pikes, prepared for an engagement. We had now no time to lose, for if wo could not prevent tho attack, Ave should come under tho unhappy necessity of using our fire-arms against them, which we were very desirous to avoid. Tupia was, therefore, ordered to acquaint them that we had weapons which, like thunder, would destroy them in a moment ; tliat v/o would immediatoly convince them of their power by directing their effect so that th'jy should not be hurt ; but that if they persisted in any hostile attempt, we should be obliged to use them for our defence ; a four-pounder, loaded with grape-shot, was then discharged wide of them, which produced the desired effect ; the reiiort, the flash, and above all, tho shut, which spread very fiir in the water, so intimidated them, that they began to paddlo away with all their might : Tupia, however, calling after them, and assuring them that if they woidd come raiarnied, they sliould bo kindly received; the people in one of the buats put their arms on board of another, and came under the ship's stern ; we made them several j)resents, and should certainly have prevailed upon them to come on board, if the other canoes had not come up, and again threatened us, by sliouting and brandishing their weapons : at this the people who had come to the ship imarmed expressed great displeasure, and soon after they all went away. In the afternoon we stood over to the south point of the bay, but not reaching it before it was dark, we stood off and on all night. At eight the next morning, being abreast of tho point, several fishing boats came off to us, and sold us some stinking fish : it was the best they had, and we were willing to trade with them upon any terms : these people behaved very well, and wo should have parted good friends if it had not been for a largo canoe, with two-and-twrnty armed men on board, which came boldly up along-side of the ship. Wo soon saw that this boat had nothing for traffic, yet we gave them two or three pieces of cloth, an article which they seemed very fond of. I observed that one man had a black skin thrown over him, somewhat resembling that of a bear, and being desirous to know wli.at animal was its first owner, I offered lum for it a ]>iece of red baize, and he seemed greatlj' pleased with, the bargain, immediately pulling off the skin, and holding it up in tho boat ; he would not, however, part with it till he had the cloth in his possession, and as there could be no transfer of property, if with equal caution 1 had insisted upon the same condition, I ordered the cloth to be handed down to him, upon which, with amaning cool- Oct. ]7«0. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLR y.n iicss, instead of sending np tlic skin, lie began to pack np botli that and the baize, wbieli ho liad received as the i)nrcbase of it, in a basket, without paying the least regard to my demand or remonstrances, and soon after, with the fishing-boats, jmt off from the ship; when t!uy were at some distance, tiiey drew together, and after a short consultation returned ; the fishermen oflered more fish, whicli, though good for nothing, was pureliased, and trade was again renewed. Among others who were placed t)ver the ship's side to hand nj) what we bought, was little Tayeto, Tni)ia's boy ; and one of the rndians, watching his opportu- iiitj', suddenly seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe ; two of tiu;m held him down in the forepart of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled her off, the rest of the canoes following as fast as they covdd ; upon this the marines, who were under arms upon deck, were ordered to fire. The shot was directed to that j)art of the canoe which was farthest from the boy, and ratlier wide of her, being willing rather to miss the rowers than to hurt him : it happened, however, that one man dropped, upon which the others quitted their hold of the boy, who instantly leajjcd into the water, and swam towards the ship ; the large canoe immediately pulled round and followed him, but some muskets and a great gun being fired at her, she desisted from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat was lowered, and the poor boy taken up unhurt, though so terrified, that for a time ho seemed to be deprived of his senses. Some of the gentlemen who traced the canoes to shore with their glasses, said, that they saw three men carried up the beach, who appeared to bo cither dead, or wholly disabled by their wounds. To the cape off which this unhappy transaction happened, I gave the name of Cape Kid- NAPPicRS. It lies in latitude 39" 43', and longitude 182" 24' W., and is rendered remarkable by two white rocks like haystacks, and the higli white cliffs on each side. It lies S. W, by W. distant thirteen leagues from the isle of Portland ; and between them is the bay of which it is the south point, and which, in honour of Sir Edward Ilawke, then First Lord of the Admiralty, I called IIawkk's Bay. AVe found in it from twenty-four to seven fathom, and good anchorage. Fiom Cape Kidnappers the land trends S.S.AV., and in this direc- tion we made our run along the shore, keeping at about a league distance, with a steady breeze and clear weather. As soon as 'Tayeto recovered from liis fright, he brought a fish to Tupia, and told him that he intended it as an offering to his Eatua, or god, in gi'atitudc for his eseajie ; 'Tupia com- mended his piety, and ordered him to throw the fish into the sea, which was accordingly done. About two o'clock in the afternoon, wo passed a small but high white island lying close to the shore, upon which we saw many houses, boats, and people. The people we concluded to be fishers, because the island was totally barren ; we saw several people also on shore, in a small bay upon the main, within the island. At eleven, we brought to till day-light, and then made sail to the southward, along the shore. About seven o'clock we passed a high point of land, which lies S.S.W. twelve leagues from Cape Kidnappers : from this point (ho land trends three- fourths of a point more to the westward ; at ten, wo saw more land open to the southward, and a^' i?"f^n, t!ie southernmost land that was in sifrht bore S. 31) W. distant eight or ten leagues, and a high bluff head, with yellowish cliff's, bore W. distant about two miles : the depth of water was thirty-two fathom. In the afternoon we had a resh breeze at west, and during the night variable light airs and eahns : in the morning a gentle breeze sprung up between the N.W. and N.E., and having till now stood to the southward, without seeing any probability of meeting with a harbour, and the country manifestly altering for the worse, I thought that standing farther in that direction would bo attended with no advantage, but on the contrary would be a loss of time that might be employed with a better prospect of success in examining the coast to the northward ; about one, tluu-cfore, in the afternoon, I tacked, and stood north, with a fresh breeze at west. 'The high bluff head, with yellowish cliffs, which we were abreast of at noon, I called Capi; Tuunagain, because hero wo turned back. It lies in latitude 40' 34' S. longitude 182° Ct't' W., distant eigliteen leagues S.S. W. and S.S.W. ,^ W. from Cape Kidnappers. The land between them is of a very unequal lu;ight ; in some places it is lofty next the sea with white cliffs, in others low, with sandy beaches : the face of the country is not so well clothed with s8 ' )! w ■ I } If 1 j 1 1 102 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Oct. 1769. wood as it is about Ilawkc's bay, but looks more like our bigh downs in England : it is, liowcvor, to all appearance, well inhabited ; for as we stood along the shore, wo saw several villages, not only in tbe valleys, but on tbc tops and sides of the bills, and smoke in many other places. Tlie ridge of mountains which has been mentioned before extends to tbe southward farther tlian we could sec, and was then everywhere chequered with snow. At night we saw two fires, inland, so very large, that wc concluded they must have been made to clear the land for tillage ; but however that be, they are a demonstration that the part of the country whore they appeared is inhabited. On the 10th, at four o'clock in the morning, Cape Kidnappers bore N. 32 W. distant two leagues : in this situation we had sixty-two fathom, and when the cape bore W. by N. distant three or four leagues, we had forty-five fatliom : in the mid-way between the isle of Portland and the cape wc had sixty-five fathom. In the evening, being abreast of the peninsula, within Portland island, called Tkrakako, a canoe came off from tliat shore, and with much difficulty overtook tlie ship; there were on board five people, two of whom apj)eared to be chiefs, and the other three servants : the chiefs, with very little invitation, came on board, and ordered the rest to remain in their canoe. We treated them with great kindness, and they were not backward in exjiressing their satitifaction ; they v/ent down into the cabin, and after a short time told us that tliey had determined not to go on shore till the next morning. As the sleeping on board was an honour which we neither expected nor desired, I remonstrated strongly against it, and told them, that on their iiccount it would not be j)roper, as the ship would i)robably be at a great distance from where she was then, tbe next morning : they persisted, however, in their resolution, and as I found it impossible to get rid of them without turning them by force out of the ship, I complied : as a proper precaution, however, I proposed to take their servants also on board, and hoist their canoe into the ship ; they made no objection, and this was accordingly done. The countenance of one of these chiefs was the most open .and ingenuous of all I have ever seen, and I very soon j;ave up every suspicion of his having any sinister design : they both examined every thing they saw with great curiosity and attention, and received very thankfully such little presents as we made tliem ; neither of them, however, could be pt^rsuaded either to eat or drink, but their servants devoured every thing tiiey could get with great voracity. We found that tlieso men had beard of our kindness and liberality to the natives who had been on board before, yet we thought the confidence they placed in us, an extraordinary instance of their fortitude. At night I brought to till day-light, and then made sail ; at seven in the morning, 1 brought to again under Caj)o Table, and sent away our guests with their canoe, who expressed some surprise at seeing tlieniselves so far from home, but landed abreast of the ship. At this time I saw other canoes putting of from the shore, but I stood away to the northward without waiting for their coming up. About three, I passed a remarkable head-land, which I called Gable-End-Fobeland, from the very great likeness of tlic v/hite cliff at the point to the gable-end of a house : it is not more remarkable for its fij;urc, tiian for a rock which rises like a spire at a little distance. It lies from Cape Tabic N. 24 E. distant about twelve leagues. The shore between them forms a bay, witliin which lies Poverty Bay, at the distance of four leagues from the head- land, and eight from the Cape. At this place three canoes came off to us, and one man came on board ; we gave him sonic trifles, and he soon rctuk'ned to his boat, which, with all the rest, dropped astern. In the morning I made sail in shore, in order to look into two bays, which appeared about two leagues to the northward of the Foreland ; the southernmost I could not fetch, but I anchored in the other about eleven o'clock. Into tiiis bay we were invited by the people on board many canoes, who pointed to a place where they said there was plenty of fresh water : I did not find so good a shelter from the sea as I expected ; but tlie natives who came about us, ap])caring to be of a friendly disposition, I was determined to try whether I could not get some knowledge of the country here before I proceeded farther to tbc northward. In one of the canoes that came about us as soon as wc anchored, wo sew two men, who by their habits appeared to be chiefs : one of them was dressed in a jacket which was orna- mented, after their manner, with dog's-skin ; the jacket of the other was almost covered irco. Oct. 1709. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. in.i with small tufts of red feathers. Tiiesc men I invited on board, and they entered the ship with very little hesitation : I gave each of thcin about four y.ards of linen, and a spike-nail ; with the linen they were much pleased, but seemed to set no value upon the nail. Wo perceived that they knew what had happened in Poverty Bay, and we had therefore no reason to doubt but that they would behave peaceably ; however, for further security, Tupia was ordered to tell them for what purpose we came thither, and to assure them that wo would offer them no injury, if they offered none to us. In the mean time those who remained iu the canoes traded with our people very fairly for what they happened to have with them : the chiefs, who were old men, staid with us till wo had dined, and about two o'clock I put off with the boats, manned and armed, in order to go on shore in search of water, and tho two chiefs went into the boat with me. The afternoon was tempestuous, with much rain, and the surf everywhere ran so high, that although we rowed almost round the bay, wo found no place where we could land : I determined therefore to return to the ship, wliich being intimated to the chiefs, they called to the people on shore, and ordered a canoe to bo sent off for themselves ; this was accordingly done, and they left us, promising to come on board again in the morning, and bring us some fish and sweet potatoes. In the evening, the weather having become fair and moderate, tho boats were again ordered out, and I landed, accompanied by 3Ir. Banks and Dr. Solander. We were received with great expressions of friendship by the natives, who behaved with a scrupulous attention not to give offence. In particular, they took care not to appear in great bodies : one family, or the inhabitants of two or three houses only, were generally placed together, to the number of fifteen or twenty, consisting of men, women, and children. These little companies sat upon the ground, not advancing towards us, but inviting us to them, by a kind of beckon, rooving one hand towards the breast. We made them several little presents ; and in our walk round the bay found two small streams of fresh water. This convenience, and tho friendly behaviour of the people, determined me to stay at least a day, that I might fill 3ome of my empty casks, and give Jlr. Banks an opportunity of examining the natural produce of the country. V,i' m 'f: I one man with all M TAKING IN WATKU ON A hUV! BEACH. In the morning of the Slst, I sent Lieuten9.nt Gore on shore, to superintend the watcrinor, with a strong party of men ; and they were soon followed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with Tupia, Tayeto, and four others. The natives sat by our people, and seemed pleased to observe them ; but did not intermix with them : they traded, however, chiefly for cloth, and after a short time applied to their ordinary occupations, as if no stranger had been among them. In the forenoon, several of their boats went out a-fishing, and at dinner time every one repaired to his respective dwelling ; from which, after a certain time, ho returned. VM COOKS FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WOULD. Oct. 17«9. Tlieso fair appearances oncoiiraged Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander to range the bay with very little precaution, wlicro tlioy found many ])lants, and shot some birds of exquisite beauty. In their walk, they visited several houses of the natives, and saw something of their manner of life ; for they sliowcd, without any reserve, everything whicli the gentlemen desired to 880. They were soniotinics foiuid at their meals, which the ap])roach of the strangers never interrupted. Tlioir food at this season consisted of fish, with which, instead of bread, they eat the root of a kind of fern, very like that which grows ui)on our commons in England. Tlieso roots they scorch over the fire, and then bcjit with a stick, till the bark and dry out- side fall off; what remains is a soft substance, somewhat clammy and sweet, not unpleasing to the taste, but mixed with three or four times its quantity of strings and fibres, which arc very disagreeable ; these were swallowed by some, but spit out by the far greater number, who had baskets under them to receive the rejected part of what bad been chewed, which had an appearance very like that of tobacco in the same state. In other seasons they have certainly plenty of excellent vegetables ; but no tame animals were seen among them except dogs, which were very small and ugly. Mr. Banks saw some of their plantations, where the ground was as well broken down and tilled as even in the gardens of the most curious people among us : in these spots were sweet potatoes, coccos or eddas, which are well known and much esteemed both in the East and West Indies, and some gourds : the sweet potatoes were planted in small hills, some ranged in rows, and others in quincunx, all laid by a lino with the greatest regularity : the coccos were planted upon flat land, but none of them yet appeared above ground ; and the gourds were set in small hollows, or dishes, much as in England. These plantations were of different extent, from one or two acres to ten : taken together, there appeared to be from LOO to 20() acres in cultivation in the whrlc bay, though wc never saw an hundred people. Each district was fenced in, generally with reeds, which were ])laced so close together that there was scarcely room for a mouse to creep between. The women were plain, and made themselves more so by painting their faces with red ochre and oil, which, being generally fresh and wet upon their cheeks and foreheads, was easily transferred to the noses of tliose wlio thought fit to salute them ; and that they were not wholly averse to such familiarity, the noses of several of our people strongly testified : they wore, however, as great coquettes as any of the most fashionable ladies in Europe, and the young ones as skittish as an unbroken filly : each of them wore a petticoat, under which there was a girdle, made of the blades of grass highly perfumed, and to the girdle was fastened a small bunch of the leaves of some fragrant plant, which served their modesty as its innermost veil. The faces of the men were not so generally painted, yet we saw one whose whole body, and even his garments, were rubbed over with dry ochre, of which he kept a piece constantly in his hand, and was every minute renewing the decoration in one part or another, where he supposed it was become deficient. In personal delicacy they were not equal to our friends at Otaheitc, for the coldness of the climate did not invite them so often to bathe ; but we saw among them one instance of cleanliness in which they exceeded them, and of whicli, perhaps, there is no example in any other Indian nation. Every house, or every little cluster of three or four houses, was furnished with a privy, so that the ground was everywhere clean. The offiils of their food, and other litter, were also piled up in regular dunghills, which probably they made use of at a proper time for manure. In tins decent article of civil economy they were beforehand with one of the most considerable nations of Europe ; for I am credibly informed, that, till the year 1760, there was no such thing as a ])rivy in Madrid, the metropolis of Spain, though it is plentifully supplied with water. Before that time it was the universal practice to throw the ordure out of the windows, during the night, into the street, where numbers of men were employed to remove it, with shovels, from tiie upper parts of the city to the lower, where it lay till it was dry, and was then carried away in carts, and deposited without the gates. His present Catholic Majesty, having determined to free his capital from so gross a nuisance, ordered, by proclamation, that the proprietors of every house should build a privy, and that sinks, drains, and common sewers sliould be made at the public expense. The Spaniards, though long accustomed to an arbitrary government, resented this proclamation witii great spirit, as an infringement of the common rights of mankind, and made a vigorous struggle against Oct. 1761). COOK'S FIRST OYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 186 ita being carried into execution. Every class devised sonic ohjeetion a(i[ain-: it, but tlio physicians bid the fairest to interest the king in tlie preservation of tlic ancient privih'ges of Iiis people ; for tbey remonstrated, that if the filth was not, as usual, thrown into the streets, a fatal sickness would probably ensue, because the putrescent particles of the air, whicli such filth attracted, would then be imbibed by the human body. But this expediint, with every other that could be thought of, proved unsuccessful ; and the popular discontent then ran so high, that it was very near producing an insurrection j his majesty, however, at length prevailed, and Madrid is now as clear as most of the considerable cities in Europe. But many of the citizens, probably upon the principles advanced by their physicians, that heaps of filth prevent deleterious particles of air from fixing upon neighbouring substances, have, to keep their food wholesome, constructed their privies by the kitchen fire. In the evening, all our boats being employed in carrying the water on board, and Mr. Banks and his company finding it probable that they should bo left on shore after it •was dark, by which much time would be lost, whicli they were inipatit 't to employ in putting the plants they had gathered in order, they applied to the Indirms for a passage in one of their canoes : they immediately consented, and a canoe was launched for their use. They went all on board, being eight in number ; but not being used to a vessel tliat required so even a balance, they unfortunately overset her in the surf: no life, however, was lost ; but it was thought advisable that half of them should wait for another turn. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and Tayeto embarked again, and without any further accident arrived safely at the ship, well pleased with the good nature of their Indian friends, who cheerfully undertook to carry them a second time, after having experienced how unfit a freight they were for such a vessel. While these gentlemen wore on shore, several of the natives went oft" to the ship, and trafficked, by exchanging their cloth for that of Otaheito : of this barter they were for some time very fond, preferring the Indian cloth to that of Europe : but before night it decreased in its value five hundred per cent. IMany of these Indians I took on board, and showed them the ship and her apparatus, at which they expressed equal satisfaction and astonishment. As I found it exceedingly difficult to get water on board on account of the surf, I determined to stay no longer at this place ; on the next morning, therefore, about five o'clock, I weighed anchor, and put to sea. This bay, which is called by the natives Tegadoo, lies in the latitude of 38° 10' S. ; but as it has nothing to recommend it, a description of it is unnecessary. From this bay I intended to stand on to the northward, but the wind being right against me, I could make no way. While I was beating about to windward, some of the natives came on board, and told me that in a bay which lay a little to the southward, being the same that I could not fetch the day I put into Tegadoo, there was excellent water, where the boats might land without a surf. I thought it better therefore to put into this bay, where I might complete my water, and form farther connexions with the Indians, than to keep the sea. W^ith this view I bore up for it, and sent in two boats, manned and armed, to examine the watering-place, who confirming the report of the Indians at their return, I came to an anchor about one o'clock, in eleven fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom, the north point of the bay N. by E., and the south point S.E. The watering-place, which was in a small cove a little within the south point of the bay, bore S. by E., distant about a mile. Many canoes came immediately oflf from the shore, and all traded very honestly for Otaheito cloth and glass -bottles, of which they were immoderately fond. In the afternoon of the 23rd, as soon as the ship was moored, I went on shore to examine the watering-place, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander : the boat landed in the cove, without the least surf ; the water was excellent, and conveniently situated ; there was plent)' of wood close to high-water mark, and the disposition of the people was in every respect such as we could wish. Having, with Mr. Green, taken several observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of them gave 180° 47' W. longitude ; but as all the observations made before exceeded these, I have laid down the coast from the mean of the whole. At noon I took m •:i m r i ISO COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD. Oct. 1700. I } lu tlio sun'a meridian altitiido with an astronomical quadrant, which was set up at tho watering- place, and found the latitude to be 3(^ 22' 24". On tho 24th, early in the morning, I sent Lieutenant Goro on shore, to superintend the cutting of wood and filling of water, with a suflicient number of men for both purposes, and all the marines as a guard. After breakfast I went on shore myself, and continued there the whole day. ]\[r. Banks and Dr. Sulander also went on shore to gatlier plants, and in their walks saw seveial things worthy of notice. They met with many houses in the valleys that seemed to be wholly deserted, the people living on the ridges of the hills in a kind of sheds very slightly built. As they were advancing in one of these valleys, the hills on each side of which were very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight of a very extraordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock, perforated through its whole substance, so as to form a rude but stupendous arch or cavern, opening directly to the sea : this aperture was seventy-five feet long, twenty- seven broad, and five-and-forty high, con\nandinga view of the bay and tho hills on the other side, which were seen through it, and, opening at onco upon the view, produced an effect hr superior to any of the contrivances of art. As they were returning to the watering-place in the evening, they met an old man, who detained them some time by showing them the military exercises of tho country with the lance and patoo-patoo, which are all the weapons in use. The lance is from ten to fourteen feet long, made of a very hard wood, and sharp at both ends : the patoo-patoo has been described already : it is about a foot long, made of talc or bone, with sharp edges, and used as a battle-axe. A post or stake was set up as his enemy, to which he advanced with a most furious aspect, brandishing his lance, which he grasped with great firmness ; when it was supposed to have been pierced by his lance, he ran at it with his patoo-patr ?, and falling upon the upper end of it, which was to represent his adversary's head, he laid on with great vehemence, striking many blows, any one of which would probably have split the skull of an ox. From our champion's fallin'/ upon bis mock enemy with the patoo-patoo, after ho was supposed to have been piei with the lance, our gentlemen inferred, that in the battles of this country there is no quarter. This afternoon we set up the armourer's forge, to repair the braces of the tiller, which had been broken, and went on getting our wood and water, without suffering the least molestation from the natives, who came down with diflerent sorts of fish, which we purchased with cloth, beads, and glass-bottles, as usual. On the 25th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on shore ; and while they were searching for plants, Tupia staid with the waterers ; among other Indians who came down to them w.as a priest, with whom Tupiu entered into a very learned conversation. In their notions of religion they seemed to agree very well, which is not often the case between learned divines on our side of the ocean : Tupia, however, seemed to have the most know- ledge, and he was listened to with great deference and attention by the other. In the course of this conversiition, after the important points of divinity had been settled, Tupia inquired if it was their practice to eat men, to which they answered in the affirmative ; but said, that they ate only their enemies who were slain in battle. On the 26th it rained all day, so that none of us could go ashore ; and very few of the Indians came either to the watering-place or the ship. On the 27th I went with Dr. Solander to examine tho bottom of the bay, but though we went ashore at two places we met with little worth notice. Tho people behaved very civilly, showing us everything that we expressed a desire to see. Among other trifling curiosities which Dr. Solander purchased of them, was a boy's top, shaped exactly like those which children play with in England j and they made signs that to make it spin it was to be whipped. Mr. Banks in the mean time went ashore at the watering-place, and climbed a hill which stood at a little distance to see a fence of poles, which we had observed from the ship, and which had been much the subject of speculation. The hill was extremely steep, and rendered almost inaccessible by wood, yet ho reached the place, near which he found many houses that for some reason had been deserted by their inhabitants. The poles appeared to be alo it sixteon feet high ; they were placed in two rows, with a space of about six feet between them, and the poles iu each row were about ton feet distant from each other. The \\ Oct. 1700. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 187 lano between tliem wns covered by sticks, tliat were set up sloping towards each other from tiic top of the poles on each side, like tlio roof of a Iiouse. This rail-work, with a ditcli that was parallel to it, was carried about a hundred yards down the hill in a kind of curve, but for what purpose we could not guess. The Indians at the watering-place, at our request, entertained us with their war-song, in which the women joined, with the most horrid distortions of countenance, rolling their eyes, thrusting out their tongues, and often heaving loud and deep sighs ; though all was done in very good time. On the 2nth we went ashore upon an island that lies to the left hand of the entrance of the bay, where we saw the largest canoe that wo had yet met with ; she was sixty-eight feet and a half long, five broad, and three feet six high ; she had a sharp bottom, consisting of three trunks of trees hollowed, of which that in tho middio was the longest ; tho sido planks were sixty-two feet long, in one piece, and were not despicably carved in bas-relief ; the head also was adorned with carving still more richly. Upon this island thero was a larger house than any wo had yet seen, but it seemed unfinished and was full of chips. Tho wood-work was squared so even and smooth, that we made no doubt of their having among them very sharp tools. Tho sides of the posts were carved in a masterly style, though after their whimsical taste, which seems to prefer spiral lines and distorted faces : as these carved posts appear to have been brought from some other place, such work is probably of great v.alue among them. At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, having got on board our wood and water, and a largo supply of excellent celery, with which the country abounds, and which proved a powerful antiscorbutic, I unmoored and put to sea. This bay is called by the natives Tolaoa ; it is moderately large, and has from seven to thirteen fathom, with a clean sandy bottom and good anchorage ; and is sheltered from all winds except tlie north-east. It lies in latitude 38° 22' S. and four leagues and a half to the north of Gable-end Foreland. On tho south point lies a small but high island, so near tho main as not to bo distinguished from it. Close to the north end of the island, at tho entrance into the bay, are two high rocks ; one is round, like a corn-stack, but the other is long, and perforated in several places, so that the openings appear like the arches of a bridge. "Within these rocks is the cove where we cut wood, and filled our water-casks. Off the north point of the bay is a pretty high rocky island, and about a mile without it are somo rocks and breakers. The variation of the compass here is 14° 31' E., and tho tide flows at the full and change of the moon, about six o'clock, and rises and falls perpendicularly from five to six feet ; whether the flood comes from the southward or the northward I have not been able to determine. We got nothing here by traflic but a few fish and some sweet potatoes, except a few trifles, which we considered merely as curiosities. We saw no four-footed animals, nor tho appearance of any, either tame or wild, except dogs and rats, and these were very scarce : the people eat the dogs, like our friends at Otaheite, and adorn their garments with tho skins, as we do ours with fur and ermine. I climbed many of the hills, hoping to get a view of the country, but I could see nothing from the top except higher hills, in a bound- less succession. Tho ridges of these hills produce little besides fern ; but the sides are most luxuriantly clothed with wood and verdure of various kinds, with little plantations intermixed. In the woods we found trees of above twenty different sorts, and carried specimens of each on hoard ; but there was nobody among us to whom they were not altogether unknown. The tree which we cut for firing was somewhat like our maple, and yielded a whitish gum. We found another sort of it of a deep yellow, which we thought might bo useful in dyeino:. We found also one cabbage-tree, which we cut down for tho cabbages. The country abounds with plants and the woods with birds, in an endless variety, exquisitely beautiful, and of which none of us had the least knowledge. The soil both of the hills and valleys is light and sandy, and very fit for the production of all kinds of roots, though we saw none except sweet potatoes and yams. 'J' ill : h , , i.BI m Ulli il ffl ; 1 W t 1 138 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Oct. 1700. ;tl !■ COAPTKR III. — THE HANOR FHOM TOLAOA TO MKIICUHY HAY, WITH AN ACCOUNT OP MANY INCIDKNTS THAT IIAl'l'KNKU IIOTII ON llOAni) AND AMiloltK : A UKSCUII'TION OF SKVKUAL VIKWa KXimilTKD UY THE COUNTRY, ANU OP TUK UKI'I'AIIS, OR FOHTII'IEU VILLAGES OP Till-. INIIAIIITAXTM. On Jlonilay, tho .3()tli, about Ihilf an hour after ono o'clock, liaviug made sail again to tlio northward for about ton hours, with a light brcczi*, I hauled round a small island which lay cast ono niilo from the north-oast point of tho laud ; from this place I found tho land trend away N.W. by W. and W.N.W. as fur as I could soo, tliis point being tho easternmost land on the whole coast. I gave it tho name of East Capi;, and I called tho island that lies oft" it East Island ; it is of a small circuit, high and round, and a]i])ears white and barren : tho cape is high, with white clittn, and lies in latitude 37^ 42' MO" S. and longitude 101° W. Tiio land from Tolaga Hay to East Cape is of a moderate but unequal height, forming several small bays, in which are sandy bc.ichos : of the inland country we could not see much, tho weather being cloudy and hazy. The soundings were from twenty to thirty fathom, at tho distance of about a league from the shore. After we had rounded tho t'apo, wo saw in our run along the shore a great number of villages and much cultivated land ; tho country in general appeared more fertile than before, and was low near tho sea, but hilly within. At six in tho evening, being four leagues to tho westward of East Cape, wo passed a bay which was first discovered by Lieutenant Ilicks, and which, therefore, I called Hicks'.. Bay. At eight in the evening, being eight leagues to the westward of the Cape, and three or four miles from tlio shore, I shortened sail and brought to for tho night, having at this timo a fresh gale at S.S.E. and squally ; but it soon became moderate, and at two in the morning we made sail again to the S. W.'as tho land now trended ; and at eight o'clock in tho morning saw land, which made like an island, bearing west, tho south-westernmost part of tho main bearing south-west ; and about nine no less than five canoes camo off, in which were more than forty men, all armed with their country pikes and battle-axes, shouting, and threatening an attack ; this gave us great uneasiness, and was, indeed, what we did not expect, for we hoped that the report both of our power and clemency had spread to a greater extent. When ono of these canoes had almost reached the ship, another of an immense size, the largest GREAT CANOE OF HICKS S BAY. we had yet scon, crowded with people who were also armed, put off from the shore, and came up at a great rate ; as it approached it received signals from the canoe that was nearest to the ship, and we could see that it had sixteen paddles on a side, beside people that sat, and others that stood in a row from stem to stern, being in all about sixty men : as they made directly to the ship, we were desirous of preventing an attack, by showing what wo could do, and, therefore, fired a gim, loaded with grape-shot, ahead of them : this made them stop, but not retreat ; a round-shot was then fired over them, and upon seeing it fall they seized their paddles and made towards the shore with such precipitation that they seemed scarcely to allow themselves time to breathe. In the evening three or four more 1700. Nov. mo. COOK 8 FIRST VOYAt'.E HOUND TlIK WOULD. ifly cnnoos caino off nnarnud, but Uicy would not venture witliin n niuskot-sliot of tlio vchsoI. The ('iipu uiF wliich wu liud been tlirentcnod with IxiutiliticH I called, from tlie busty retreat of tlio enemy, Cape Wun.vway. It lies in latitude;*' -i-'; longiti'de IJll" -IH'. In tliis day ^8 run we found that the land, which made like an island in the ni'irning, bearing wcyt, was 80 : and we gave it the name of Wiiiri; Ihi.and. At day-break, on the Ist of November, wo counted no less than fivc-and-forty canocR that were coming from the whore towards tho shij) ; seven of them t.Tine up with us, and after some conversation with Tupia, sold us some lobsters and muscles, and two conger eels. These people traded ])retty fairly, but 'vheu tl-.i-y were gono some others came ort' from another place, who began also to trado fairly ; but after some time they took what was handed down to them, without making xv.y return ; one of them who had done so, upon being threatened, began to laugh, and w'.tli many marks of derision set us at defiance, at the Bamo time putting off tho canoe from the ship ; a musket was then fircre hovering about us, a bird was shot from the shij>, as it wjis swinuniiig upon the water : at this they showed less surprise than wc expected, and taking up the bird, they tied it to a lishinglino that was towing astern ; as an acknowledgment for this favour, we gave thrni a piece of cloth : but notwithstanding this cflFect of our fire-arms, and this interchange of civilities, as soon as it grew dark, they sung their war-song, and attempted to tow away the buoy of the anchor. Two or three muskets were then fired over them, but this seemed rather to make them angry than afraid, and they went away, threatening that to-morrow they would return with more force, and be the death of us iill ; at the same time sending oflF a boat, which they told us w"^ going to another part of the bay for assistance. There was some apicarance of generosity, as well as courage, in acquainting us with the time when they intended to make their attack, but they forfeited all credit which this procured them, by coming secretly upon us in the night, when tliey certainly hoped to find us asleep : upon approaching the ship, tiiey found themselves mistaken, and therefore retired without speaking a word, supposing that they were too early; after some time, they came a second time, and being again disappointed, they retired as silently as before. In the morning, at day-break, they prepared to cfteet by force what they had in vain attemi)ted by stealth and artifice : no less than twelve canoes came against us with about a hundred and fifty men, all armed with pikes, lances, and stones. As they could do nothing till they came very near the ship, Tupia w-as ordered lo expostulate with them, and if possible divert them from their purpose : during the conversation, they ap[)eared to bo sometimes friendly and sometimes otherwise ; at length, however, they began to trade, and we offered to purchase their weapons, which some of them consented to sell : they sold two very fairly, but having received what had been agreei' upon for the purchase of a third, they refused to send it up, but offered it for a second price ; a second was sent down, but the weapon was still detained, and a demand made of a third ; this being refused with some expressions of displeasure and resentment, the offender, with many ludicrous tokens of contempt and defiance, paddled his canoe off a few yards from the ship. As I intended to continue in this place five or six days, in order to make an observation of the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely necessary, in order to prevent future mischief, to show these people t' "t we were not to be treated ill with ini))unity; some small shot were therefore tired at the thief, and a niusket-ball through the bottom of his boat : upon this it was paddled to about a hundred yards' distance, and to ou'.- great surjirise the people in the other canoes took not the least notice of their wounded conipanion, though he bled very much, but retu ned to the shij), and continued to trade with the most perfect indifference and unconcern. They sold us many moie of their weapons, without making any other attempt to defraud uh for a considerable time ; at last, however, one of them thought fit to paddle away with two different pieces of cloth whieh had been given for the same weapon : when he had got about a hundred yards' distance, and tliougiit liimself secure of his prize, a nuisket was fii'ed after him, wliich fortunately struck tlie boat just at the water's edge, and made two holes :" hi>r side; this only incited them to ply their paddNs with greater activity, and the rest of tiio cauvies also made off with the utmost expedition. As the last proof of our superiority, therefore, we fired a rouud shot over them, and not a boat stopped till they got on shore. About ten o'clock, I went with two boats to soiuid the bay, and look out for a more convenient anclioring-placo, the master being in one boat and myself in tlie other. We pulled first over to the north shore, from which some canoes came out to meet us; as we advanced however, they retired, inviting us to follow them ; but seeing them all armed, I did not i\ '• i lit ,t'.S ■ m IM I a m> II il"; .IS I m im COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE WOULD, Nov. 17fiO. 1 1, i ■ : ' think it proper to coiiii-Ij': but went towards tlie head of tlie bay, wlicro I observed a village upon a very high point, fortified in the manner that has been already described, and having fixed upon an anchoring-place not far from where the ship lay, I returned on board. At throe o'clock in the afternoon, I weighed, ran in nearer to the shore, and anchored in four fathom and a half water, with a soft sai.Jy bottom, the south point of the bay bearing E., distant one mile, and a river which the boats can enter at low .%ater S.S.E,, distant a railo and a half. In the morning, the natives cainc off again to the ship, and wo had the satisfaction to observe that their behaviour was very different from what it had (jcen yesterday : among them was an old man, whom we had before remarked for his pruilence and honesty : his nari.e was Toiava, and he seemed to be a person of a superior ranV ; in tiie transactions of yesterday morning he had behaved with great propriety and good sense, lying in a small canoe, always near the ship, and treating those on board as if he neither intended a fraud, nor suspected an injury : with some persuasion this man and another came on board, and ventured into the cabin, where I presented each of them witli a piece of Englibh cloth and some spike-nails. Tliey told us that the Indians were now very much afraid of us ; and on our part we promised friendship, if they would behave peaceably, desiring only to purchase what they had to sell upon their own terms. After the natives had left us, I went witli the pinnace and long-boat into the river with a design to haul the seine, and sent the master in the yawl to sound the bay and dredge for fish. The Indians, who were on one side of the river, expressed their friendship by all the signs they could devise, beckouing us to land among them ; but we chose to go aslioro on the other side, as the situation was more convenient for hauling the seine and shooting birds, of which we saw great numbers of various kinds : the Indians, with much persuasion, about noon, ventured over to us. With the seine we had very little success, catcliing only a few mullets, neither did we get any thing by the trawl or the dredge, except a few shells ; but we shot several birds, most of them I'csembling sea-pies, except that they had black plumage, and red bills and feet. W^hie wo were absent with our guns, the people who staid by the boats saw two of the Indions quarrel and fight : they began the battle with their lances, but some old men interposed and took them away, leaving them to decide the difference, like Englisluiicn, with their fists ; they boxed with great vigour and obstinacy for some time, but by degrees all retired behind a little hill, so that our people could not see the event of the combat. In the morning the long-boat was sent again to trawl in the bay, and an ol.. er, with the marines, and a party of men, to cut wood and haul the seine. The Indians on shore api)eared very peaceable and submissive, and we had reason to believe that their habitations wore at a considerable distance, for wc saw no houses, and found that they slept under the bushes : the hay is probably a place to which tliey frequently resort in parties to gather shell-fish, of which it affords incredible plenty ; for wherever wc went, whether upon the hills or in tlie valleys, the woods or the plains, we saw vast heaps of shells, often many wagon-loads together, some appearing to be very old, and others recent. We saw no cultivation in this place, which had a desolate and barren ajipcarance ; the tops of the hills were green, but nothing grew there, except a large kind of fern, the roots of which the natives had got together in large quantities, in order to carry away witli them. In the evening JVIr. Banks walked up the river, which, at the mouth, looked fine and broad, but at the distance of about two miles was not deep enough to cover the foot ; and the country inland was still more barren than at the sea-side. Tiie seine and dredge were not more successful to-day than yesterday, but tiiO Indians in some measure compensated for the disappointment by bringing us seviial baskets of fish, some dry, and some fiesh dressed ; it was not indeed of the best, but I ordered it all to bo bought for the encouragement of trade. On the 7th, the weather was so bad that none of us left the ship, nor did any of the Indians come on board. On the fUh, I sent a party of men on .shore to wood and water; and in the mean time many canoes came off, in one of wliicli was our friend 'J'oiava ; soon after he was alongside of the ship, he saw two canoes coming from the opposite &ier instrunsents, to observe the tr.ansit of JMercury, ^\t. Banks and Dr. Solander being of the p.arty ; the weather hiid for some time been very thick, with much r.ain, but tliis day was so favourable th.at not a cloud intervened during the whole transit. The observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone, while I was employed in t.aking the sun's altitude to ascertain the time, It canio on .at 7'' 20' .W ,a])parcnt time : according to Mr. Green's observntion, the intfual contact vv.as at 12'' 8' '>H", tlie external .at 12'' i)' .'55" p. M. And according to mine, the internal con- tact w.as at 12'^ iV '}4", .and tlio external 12'' U' 48" ; the latitude of tlio place of observ.a- tion was 3()" 4H' i)'-'. The latitude observed .at noon was 30" 48' 28". The mean of this .and yesterday's observation gives 3')" 48' .5,V' S. the latitude of the place of observation ; the variation of tlio cjnipas'^s was 11^ ''' E. About noon v.-e were alanned 1 y the firing of a great gun from the ship ; jNFr, Gore, my second lieutena.it, was at this t'aio commaniling officer on board, and the account that ho gave was this :- — While same small c.ano(s were trading with the people, two very Largo ones came up, fu.'l of men. one of them luiving on board fort.v-seven, all armed with pikes, darts, and stones, and apparently with a hostile intention. They a]ipearcd to be strangers, and to be rather cou'^cious of superiority over us by their numbers, than afraid of any wcajions which could give us. the superiority over them. Xo attack, ho^Never., was made ; probably because they learned from the peoidc in the other canoes, with whom they immrdi.itely entered into coni'ereuee, what kind of an >.'nemy they h.ad to de.al with. After a little tim j they began to trade, some of them offering tluir arms, arid one of them a sqaaro piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, calh.'d a llaahow. Several of the weapons were purch.ased ; and Mr. Gore having agreed for a llaahow, sent down the price, which was a piece of British cloth, and expected )ii>i piu'cha-^e ; but the Iiidia!), as soon as he had got Mr. f lore's cloth in his possession, refused lo part with his own, and put off the canoe, i'pon being threatened for this fraud, he jind his conijianions began to sing their war-song in di fi- ance, and sliook their ])addles : fctill, however, they began no attack, only defyin^r ^Ir. Gore to take any remedy in his power, which so provoked him that he levelled a musket loaded 1 'ii'Vy { ' lil •II' 141 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Nov. 1709. Mi M%i m with l)all at the oftVnder while he was holding the cloth in his hand, and shot him dead. It would have heen liappy if the effect of a few small-shot had heen tried upon this occasion, which, upon some others, had been successful. AVIun the Indian dropp<;d, all the canoes put off to some distance ; but as they did not go away, it was tliought th(\y might still meditate an attack. To secure, therefore, a safe passage for the boat, whicli it was necessary to send on shore, a round shot was fired over their heads, which effectually answered the purpose, and put them all to flight. When an account of what had happened was brought ashore, our Indians were alarmed, and, drawing all together, retreated in a body. After a short time, however, they returned, having heard a more particular account of the affair, and intimated that they tliought the man who had been killed deserved his fate. A little before sunset the Indians retired to eat their supper, and we went witli them to be spectators of the repast. It consisted of fisii of different kinds, among which were lobsters, and some birds, of a species unknown to us : these were either roasted or baked. To roast them they fastened them upon a small stick, which was stuck up in the ground inclining towards their fire ; and to bake them tliey put them into a hole in the ground, with hot stones, in the same manner as the people of Otaheite. Among the natives that were assembled upon this occasion, we saw a woman who, after their manner, was mourning for the death of iier relation. She sat u]wn the ground near the rest, who, one only excepted, seeined not at all to regard her ; the tears constantly trickled down her elieeks, and she repeated, in a low, but very mournful voice, words wiiieh even Tupia did nut at all understand. At the end of every sentence she cut her arn.s, her face, or lier breast, with a shell that she held in her hand, so that she was almost covered with l>lood, and was indeed one of the most affecting spectacles that can be conceived. Tlie cuts, liowever, did not appear to be so deep as are sometimes made uj)on similar occasions, if wo may judge by the sears which we saw upon tlic arms, thighs, breasts, and cheeks of many of them, which we were told were the remains of wounds which they had inflicted upon them- selves as tes>timonic3 of tlieir affection and sorrow. Tlie next day, I went with two boats, accompanied by I\Ir. Banks and the other gentle- men, to examine a large river that empties itself into the head of the bay. We rowed about four or five miles up, and could have gone mucli farther if the weather had been favourable. It was here wider than at the mouth, and divided into many streams by small flat islands, which are covered with mangroves, and overflowed at high- water. From these trees exudes a viscous substance which very much resembles i*esin ; we found it first in small lunij)s upon the sea-beach, and now saw it sticking to tlie trees, by which we knew whence it came. We lauded on the east side of the river, wiiere we saw a tree upon which seviTal shags had built their nests, and here, therefore, we determined to dine. Twenty of the shags were soon killed, and. being boiled upon the spot, aff'orded us an excellent meal. We then went upon the hills, from whence I tiiouglu I saw the head of the river. The shore on each side, as well as the islands in the middle, were covered with niangrovea ; and the sand-banks abounded in cockles and clams. In many places there wore vock-oysters, and everywhere jilenty of wild-fowl, principally shags, ducks, cnilews, and tiio sea-pie, that has been described before. We also saw fish in the river, but of what kind we could not discover. Tlie country on the east side of this river is, for the most part, barren and destitute of wood ; but oil the west it has a better aspect, and in some places is adorned with trees, but has i\i no part the appeara.ice of cultivation. In the entrance of the river, and for two or thr* miles up, there is good anchoring in four and five fathom water, and places very convenient for laying a vessel on shore, where tlie tide rises and falls seven feet at the full and change of the moon. We could not determine whether any considerable stream of fresh wnfor came into this river out of the country; but we saw a number of small rivulets issn ti m the adjacent hills. Near the mouth of this river, on the east side, we found a l-tt'.e Indian village, consisting of small temporary sheds, where we landed, and were received by the people with the utmost kindness and Iwspitality. They treated us with a fiat shell-fisli t" a most delicious taste, somewhat like a cockle, which we ate hot from the coals. Near this place is a high point, or peninsula, jinjecting into the river, and upon it ore the remauis of Nov. 1769. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 145 a fort, which they call Eppah, or Heppah. Tlio best cnginoor in Europe could not liavo chosen a situation better adapted to enable a small number to defend themselves against a greater. The steepness of the cliffs renders it wholly inaccessible from tlie water, whicli encloses it on three sides ; and, to tlie land, it is fortified by a ditch, and a bunk raised on the inside. From the top of the bank to the bottom of the ditch is two-and-twenty feet ; the ditch on the outside is fourteen feet deej), and its breadth is in projjortion. The whole seemed to have been executed with great judgment; and there had been a row of pickets or VIEW OF & IIIPPAH, on. KOKTIl'lED VILLAGE. palisadocs, both on the top of the bank, and along the brink of the ditch on the ou' idc : those on the outside had been driven very deep into the ground, and were inclined towards the ditch, so as to project over it ; but of these the thickest posts only were left, and upon them there were evident marks of fire, so that the place had jn-obably been taken and destroyed by an enemy. If any occasion should make it necessary for a ship to winter here, or stay any time, tents miglit be built in this place, which is sufficiently spacious, with great convenience, and might easily be made impregnable to the whole country. On tlie eleventh, there was so much wind and rain that no canoe came off; but the long- boat was sent to fetch oysters from one of the beds ^vhich had been discovered the day before : the boat soon returned, deeply laden, sind the oysters, which were as good as ever came from Colchester, and about the same size, were laid down under the booms, and the ship's company did notliing but oat tliem from the time they came on board till night, when, as may reasonably be supposed, great part of tlieui were expended ; this, however, gave us no concern, as we knew that not the boat only, but the ship, might have been loaded, almost in one tide, as the beds are dry at half ebb. In the iiioriiintr of 8iinday the l'2th, two |)ejir<'d to have In ;'rd of us by the faution which they used in approaching us. As we invited them to rome alongside with aU the tokens of friendship that wii roiild sliow, they ventured up, and two of them came on board j the rest traded very fairly for what they liad : a small canoe also came from the other side of the bay, and sold us ■ornn very large fish, which they gave us to understand they would have brought yesterday, having caught tliem tho day before, but that the wind was so higli they eoidd not ventiin; to sea. Afti'i' l/reokfast I went with the pinnace and yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and |.)f. SoiaJider, over to the north side of the bay, to take a view of the country, and two 1 if [l *.i- I uwm *;' I j i -! : ^t ^ I .i i„ 4- 1 1,! ti ■i 'I'; MG COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Nov. irc9. fortified villages which wo had discovered at a distance. We landed near the smallest of them, the situation of which was the most beantifiiUy-romantic that can be imagined ; it was built upon a small rock, detached from the main, and surrounded at high water. The whole body of this rock was perforated by a hollow or arch, which possessed much the largest part of it ; the top of the arch was above sixty feet perpendicular above the sea, which at high water flowed through the bottom of it : the whole summit of the rock above the arch was fenced round after their manner ; but the area was not large enough to contain more than five or six houses : it was accessible only by one very narrow and steep path, by which the inhabitants, at our approach, came down, and invited us into the place ; but wo refused, intending to visit a much more considerable fort of the same kind at about a mile's distance. We made some presents, however, to the women ; and in the mean time we saw the inhabitants of the town which we were going to coming towards us in a body, men, women, and children, to the number of about one hundred : when they came near enough to be heard, they waved their hands, and called out Iloromai ; after which they sat down among the bushes near the beach ; these ceremonies, we were told, were certain signs of their friendly disposition. We advanced to the place where they were sitting, and when we came up, made them a few presents, and asked leave to visit their Ileppah ; they consented with joy in their countenances, and immediately led the way. It is called Whakretouwa, and is situated upon a high promontory or point, which projects into the sea on the north side, and near the head of the bay : two sides of it arc washed by the sea, and these are altogether inaccessible ; two other sides are to the land : up one of them, which is very steep, lies the avenue from the beach ; the other is flat and open to the country upon the hill, which is a narrow ridge : the whole is enclosed by a palisade about ten feet high, consisting ol strong pales bound together with withes. The weak side next the land is also defended by a double ditch, the innermost of which has a bank and an additional palisade : the inner palisades are upon the bank next the town, but at such a distance from tlie top of the bank as to leave room for men to walk and use their arms, between them and the inner ditch ; the outermost palisades are between the two ditches, and driven obliquely into the ground, so that their upper ends incline over the inner ditch : the depth of this ditch, from the bottom to the top or crown of the bank, is four-and-twenty feet. Close within the innermost palisade is a stage, twenty feet high, forty feet long, and six broad ; it is supported by strong posts, and is intendt-l '.s a station for those who defend the place, from which they may annoy the assailants by darts and stones, heaps of which lay ready for use. Another stage of the same kind commands the steep avenue from the beach, and stands also within the palisade ; on this side of the hill there arc some little outworks and huts, not intended as advanced posts, but as the habitations of peojilc who, for wart of room, could not be accommouatcd within the works, but who were, notwithstanding, desirous of placing themselves under their protection. The palisades, as has been observed already, run round the whole brow of the hill, as well towards the sea as towards the land ; but the ground within having originally been a mount, tliey have reduced it not to one level, but to several, rising in stages one above the other, like an ami)hi theatre, each of which is enclosed within its separate palisade; they communicate witli each otiior by narrow lanes, which might easily be stopped up, so that if an enemy should force llio outward palisade, he would have others to carry before the place could be wholly reduced, supposing these places to be obstinately defended one after the other. Tiie only entrance is by a narrow passage, about twelve feet long, communicating with the steep nscpiit from the beach : it passes under one of the fighting stages, and, though we saw nothing like a door or gateway, it may be easily barricaded in a manner that will make the forcing it a very dangerous and difficult undertaking. Upon the whole, this must be considered as a i)lacc of great strength, in which a small number of resolute men may defend tliemsolvcs against all the force which a people with no other arms than those that are in use here could bring against it. It seemed to be well furnished for a siege with everything but water ; we saw great quantities of fern-root, which they eat as bread, and dried fish piled up in heaps ; but wo could not perceive that they had any fresh water nearer than a brook which runs close under the foot of the hill : whctlier they have any means of getting it from this place during a siege, or whether they have any mcthoii of , 17C9. I * 1 Nov. 1709. COOK S FIRST VOYAGE ROUxXD THE WORLD. m storing it witliin the works in gourds or other vessels, wc could not learn ; some resource they certainly have with respect to this article, an indispensable necessary of life, for other- wise the laying up dry provisions could answer no purpose. Upon our expressing a desire to see their method of attack and defence, one of the young men mounted a fighting stage, which they call Poram, and another went into the ditch : both he that was to defend tlio place, and he that was to assault it, sung the war-song, and danced with the same frightful gesticulations that we had seen used in more serious circumstances, to work tliemselvos up into a degree of that mechanical fury, which, among all uncivilized nations is the necessary prelude to a battle ; for dispassionate courage, a strength of niiau that can surmount tho sense of danger, without a flow of animal spirits by wliich it is extinguished, seems to bo tho prerogative of those who have projects of more lasting importance, and a keener sense of honour and disgrace than can be formed or felt by men who have few pains or pleasures besides those of mere animal life, and scarcely any purpose but to provide for the day that is passing over them, to obtain plunder, or revenge an insult: they will march af;a'nst each other indeed in cool blood, though they find it necessary to work themselves into passion before they engage ; as among iis there have been many instances of people who have deliberately made themselves drunk, that they might execute a project which they formed when they were sober, but which, while they continued so, they did not dare to undertake. On the side of the hill, near this inclosure, we saw about half an acre planted with gourds and sweet potatoes, which was the only cultivation in the bay : under the foot of the jioiiit upon which this fortification stands, arc two rocks, one just broken oflF from the main, and the other not perfectly detached from it: they are both small, and seem more proper for the habitations of birds tlian men ; yet there are houses and places of defence upon each of them. And we saw many other works of the same kind upon small islands, rocks, and ridges of hills, on different parts of the coast, besides many fortified towns, wliich appeared to be much superior to this. The perpetual hostility in which these poor savages, who have made every village a fort, must necessarily live, will account for there being so little of their land in a state of c\iUiva- tion ; and, as mischiefs very often reciprocally produce each other, it may perhaps appear, that there being so little land in a state of cultivation, will account for their living in perpetual hostility. But it is very strange, that the same invention and diligence which have been used in tho construction of places so admirably adapted to defence, almost with- out tools, should not, when urged by the same necessity, have furnished them with a single missile weapon except the lance, which is thrown by hand ; they have no contrivance like a bow to discharge a dart, nor anything like a sling to assist them in throwing a stone ; which is the more surprising, as the invention of slings, and bows and arrows, is much more obvious than of the works which these people construct, and both these weapons are found among much ruder nations, and in almost every other part of tho world. Besides the long lanco and Patoo-patoo, which have been mentioned already, they have a staff about five feet long, sometimes pointed like a Serjeant's halbert, sometimes only tapering to a point at one end, and having the other end broad, and shaped somewhat like the blade of an oar. They have also another weapon, about a foot shorter than these, pointed at one end, and at the other shaped like an axe. The points of their long lances are barbed, and they handle them with such strength and agility, that we can match them with no weapon but a loaded nmsquet. After taking a slight view of the coimtry, and loading both the boats with celery, which we found in great plenty near the beach, we returned from our excursion, and about five o'clock in the evening, got on board the ship. On the 15th, I dailed out of tho bay, and at the same time had several canoes on board, in one of which was our friend Toiava, wlio said, that as soon as we were gone he must repair to his Ilcppah or fort, because the friends of the man who had been shot by Mr. Gore on the 9th had threatened to revenge his death upon him, whom they had .eproached as being our friend. Oft' the north point of the bay, I saw a great number of islands, of various extent, which lay scattered to the north-west, in a direction parallel witli the main as far as I could see, I steered north-east for the north- easternmost of these islands, but the wind coming to the north-west, I was obliged to stand out to sea. I, -J 1 1 1 . 1 1 'i It'. H 1 1 ' 1 ' i il 'I !j il If 'i ^4^^ ^V''' il' I 1 1 *M« w 148 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Nov. 1769. i n To tlio bay wliich wo bad now left I gave the name of MEnciinY Bay, on account of the observation which we had made tliorc of tlio tnansit of that planet over the sun. It lies in latitude 36° 47' S. ; and in the longitude of 184° 4' W. : there arc several islands lying both to the southward and northward of it, and a small island or rock in the middle of the entrance : within this island the depth of water nowhere exceeds nine fathom ; the best anchoring is in a sandy bay, which lies just within the south head, in five and four fathom, bringing a high tower or rock, which lies without the head, in one with the head, or just shut in behind it. This place is very convenient both for wooding and watering, and in the river there is an immense quantity of oysters and other shell-fish : I have for this reason given it the name of Oystkb River. But for a ship that wants to stay here any time, the best and safest place is in the river at the head of the bay ; which, from the number of man- grove trees about it, I have called JMangrove River. To sail into this river, the south shore must bo kept all the way on board. The country on the east side of the river and biiy, is very barren, its only produce being fern, and a few other plants that will grow in a poor soil. The land on the north-west side is covered with wood, and the soil being much more fertile would doubtless produce all the necessaries of life with proper cultivation : it is not, however, so fertile as the lands that we have seen to the southward, nor do the inhabitants, though numerous, make so good an appearance : they have no plantations ; their canoes are mean, and without ornament ; they sleep in the open air ; and say, that Teratu, whose sovereignty they do not acknowledge, if he was to come among them, would kill them. This favoured our opinion of their being outlaws : yet they told us, that they had Heppahs, or strongholds, to which they retired in time of imminent danger. We found, thrown upon tlie shore, in several parts of this bay, great quantities of iron- sand, which is brought down by every little rivulet of fresh water tiiat finds its way from the country; which is a demonstration that there is ore of that metal not far inland : yet neither the inhabitants of this place, or any other part of the coast that we have seen, know the use of iron, or set the least value upon it ; all of them preferring the most worthless and useless trifle, not only to a nail, but to any tool of that metal. Before we left the bay, we cut upon one of the trees near the watering-place the ship's name, and that of the commander, with the date of the year and month when we were there ; and after displaying the English colours, I took a formal possession of it in the name of his Britannic Majesty King George the Third. CnAPTER IV. — THE RANGE FROM MERCURY HAY TO THE DAY OP ISLANDS : AN EXPEDITION III' THE RIVER THAMES : SOME ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS WHO INHABIT ITS BANKS, AND THE FINE TIMBER THAT GROWS THERE: SEVERAL INTERVIEWS WITH THE NATIVES ON DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COAST, AND A SKIRMISH AVITH THEM UPON AN ISLAND. I CONTINUED plying to windward two days to get under the land, and on the 18th, about seven in the morning, we were abreast of a very conspicuous promontory, being then in latitude 30° 26', and in the direction of N. 48 W. from the north head of Mercury Bay, or Point Mercury, which was distant nine leagues : upon this point stood many people, who seemed to take little notice of us, but talked together with great earnestness. In about half an hour, several canoes put oflF from different places, and came towards the ship ; upon which the people on the point also launched a canoe, and about twenty of them came in her up with the others. When two of these canoes, in which there might be about sixty men, came near enough to make tiieniselves heard, they sung their war-song ; but seeing tliat wo took little notice of it, they tlirew a few stones at us, and then rowed oft" towards the shore. We hoped that we 1 now done with them, but in a short time they returned, as if with a fixed resolution to pro \c us into a battle, animating themselves by their song as they had done before. Tupia, wiiliout any directions from us, went to the poop, and began to expos- tulate : he told them, that we had weapons which would destroy them in a moment; and that, if they ventured to attack u.a, we should be obliged to use them. Upon this, they Nov. 17C9. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 140 flourislied tlieir weapons, and cried out in their Language, " Come on shore, and wo will kill you all !" Well, said Tupia, but why should you molest us while we are at sea ? as we do not wish to fight, wo shall not accept your challenge to come on shore ; and here there is no ])retencc for quarrel, the sea being no more your property tliau the ship. Tiiis eloquence of Tupia, though it greatly surprised us, having given hin» no hints for the arguments he used, had no effect upon our enemies, who very soon renewed their battery : a musket was then fired th rough one of their boats, and this was an argument of sufficient weight, for they immediately fell astern and left us. ^i-^>^"^^^ ' ^"r^.?^^?^^**'^^— z"*r^" " CANOE PLTTINO OFF. From the point, of which wo were now abreast, the land trends W. i S. near a league, and then S.S.E. as far as wo could see ; and, besides the ishands that lay without us, we could see land round by the S.W. as far as N.W. ; but whether this was the main or islands, we could not then determine : the fear of losing the main, however, made mc resolve to follow its direction. With this view, I hauled round the point, and steered to the sotith- ward, but there being light airs all round the compass, wo made but little progress. About one o'clock, a breeze sprung up at east, which afterwards came to N.E. and we steered along the shore S. by E. and S.S. E. having from twenty-five to eighteen fathom. At about half an hour after seven in the evening, having run seven or eight leagues since noon, I anchored in twenty-three fathom, not choosing to run any farther in the dark, sis I had now land on both sides, forming the entrance of a strait, bay, or river, lying S. by E. for on that point we could see no land. At day-break, on the 19th, the wind being still favourable, we weighed and stood with an easy sail up the inlet, keeping nearest to the east side. In a short time, two large canoes came off to us from the shore ; the people on board said, that they knew Toiava very well, and called Tupia by his name. I invited some of them on board ; and as they knew they liad nothing to fear from us, while they behaved honestly and peaceably, they immediately complied : I made each of them some presents, and dismissed them much gratified. Other canoes afterwards came up to us from a different side of the bay ; and the people on board of these also mentioned the name of Toiava, and sent a young man into the ship, who told us he was his grandson, and he also was dismissed with a present. After having run about five leagues from the place where we had anchored the night before, our depth of water gradually decreased to six fathom ; and not cho9,sing to go into less, as it was tide of flood, and the wind blew right up the inlet, I came to an anchor about the middle of the channel, which is near eleven miles over; after which I sent two boats out to sound, one on one side, and the other on the other. The boats not having found above three feet more water than wo were now in, I deter- mined to go no farther with the ship, but to examine the head of the bay in the boats ; for, as it appeared to run a good way inland, I thought this a favourable opportunity to examine the interior part of the country, and its produce. At day -break, therefore, I set out in the pinnace and long-boat, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia ; and we found the iulet end in a river, about nine miles above the ship : into this river we entered with the '4^ II il 1 ». J ..::i i .'It I! I'll ;■{ 'ffllt '1 1 ' » 1 :,;i| Ml H| f 1 ' i] ■ 2 1 ' 'If ■ 1 1 p t y , ! , ' it 1 ' if Ik I .' ri J ' !• >\ ■ ' ) I. I it '1' i. i i I' ij :■ !kiti U9 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, Nov. 17(59. first of tlio flooil, and within thrco miles found the water perfectly fresh. Before wo had proceeded more than one-third of that distance, wo found an Indian town, which was built upon a small bank of dry sand, but entirely surrounded by a deep mud, which possibly the inh.abitants might consider as a defence. Theao people, as soon as they saw us, thronged to the banks, and invited us on shore. We accepted the invitation, and made them a visit, notwithstanding the nmd. They received us with open arms, having heard of us from our good old friend Toiava ; but our stay could not be long, as we had other objects of curiosity in view. We proceeded up the river till near noon, when wo were fourteen miles within its entrance ; and then, finding the face of the country to continue nearly the same, without any alteration in the course of the stream, which we had no hope of tracing to its source, we landed on the west side, to take a view of the lofty trees which everywhere adorned its banks. They were of a kind that wo had seen before, though only at a distance, both in Poverty Bay and Ilawke's Bay. Before we had walked a hundred yards into the wood, we met with one of them which was nineteen feet eight inches in the girt, at the height of six feet above tho ground : having a quadrant with me, I measured its height from the root to the first branch, and found it to bo eighty-nine feet : it was as straight as an arroAV, and tapered but very little in proportion to its height j so that I judged there were three hundred and fifty-six feet of solid timber in it, exclusive of the branches. As we advanced we saw many others that were still larger ; we cut down a young one, and the wood proved heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as would make tho finest plank in the world. Our carpenter, who was with us, said that tho timber resembled that of the pitch-pine, which is lightened by tapping ; and possibly some such method might be found to lighten these, and they would then be such masts as no country in Europe can produce. As the wood was swampy, we could not range far ; but we found many stout trees of other kinds, all of them utterly unknown to us, specimens of which we brought away. The river at this height is as broad as the Thames at Greenwich, and the tide of flood as strong ; it is not indeed quite so deep, but has water enough for vessels of more than a middle size, and a bottom of mud so soft that nothing could take damage by running ashore. About three o'clock we re-embarked, in order to return with the first of the ebb, and named the river the Thames, it having some resemblance to our own river of that name. In our return, the inhabitants of the village where we had been ashore, seeing us take another channel, came off to us in their canoes, and trafficked with us in the most friendly manner, till they had disposed of the few trifles they had. The tide of ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the river into the channel that run up from tho sea before it was dark ; and wo pulled hard to reach the ship, but meeting the flood, and a strong breeze at N.N.W., with showers of rain, we were obliged to desist ; and about midnight we nin under the land and came to a grappling, where wo took such rest as our situation would admit. At break of day we set forward again, and it was past seven o'clock before we reached the ship. We were all extremely tired, but thought ourselves happy to be on board, for before nine it blew so hard that tho boat could not have rowed ahead, and must therefore either have gone ashore or taken shelter under it. About three o'clock, having the tide of ebb, we took up our anchor, made sail, and plied down the river till eight in the evening, when wo came to an anchor again : early in the morning we made sail wiMi first ebb, and kept plying till the flood obliged us once more to come to an anchor. .ve had now only a light breeze, I went in the pinnace, accompanied by Dr. Solander, tt he western shore ; but I saw nothing worthy of notice. When I left the ship, many canoes were about it ; Mr. Banks th'.refore chose to stay on board and traffic with the natives ; they bartered their clothes and arms, chiefly for paper, and behaved with great friendship and honesty. But while some of them were below with Mr. Banks, a young man who was upon the deck stole a half-minuto glass which was in the binnacle, and was detected just as ho was carrying it off. Mr. Hicks, who was commanding-officer on board, took it into his head to punish him, by giving him twelve lashes with a cat-o'nine-tails ; and accordingly ordered him to be taken to the gangway, and tied up to tho shrouds. When tho other Indians who wore on board saw him seized, they attempted to rescue him ; and being resisted, called for their arms, which wei*e handed up Nov. 1700. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. lol from tlio canoes, and the people of one of tlicin attempted to come up tlio sliip's side. Tlio tumult was heard by JMr. Bunks, who, witli Tupia, cauio liawtily upon tlio duck to sec what had happened. Tlie Indians immediately ran to Tupia, who, finding ]Mr. Ilieks inexorable, could only assure them, that nothing was intended against the life of their companion ; but that it was necessary he should suffer some punishment for his offence ; which being explained to them, they seemed to be satisfied. Tiie punishment was then inflicted, and as soon as the criminal was unbound, an old man among tlie spectators, who was supposed to be his father, gave him a hearty beating and sent him down into hin canoe. All tlio canoes then dropped a-stern, and the people said that they were afraid to come any more near the ship : after much persuasion, however, they ventured back again, but their cheerful confidence wan at an end, and their stay was short ; they promised, indeed, at their departure, to return with some fish, but we saw no more of them. On the 23d, the wind being contrary, we kept plying down the river, and at seven in the evening, got without the N.W. point of the inlands lying on the west side of it. Tiic weather being bad, night coming on, and having land on every side of us, I thought it most advisable to tack, and stretch in under the point, where wo anchored in nineteen fathom. At five in the morning of the 24th, wc weighed, and made sail to the N.W. under our courses and double-reefed topsails, the wind being at S. W. by W. and W. S.W., a strong gale and squally. As the gale would not permit us to come near the land, we had but a sliglit and distant view of it from the time when wo got under sail till noon, during a run of twelve leagues, but wo never once lost sight of it. At this time, our latitude by observation was 36° 15' 20", wo were not above two miles from a point of land on the main, and three leagues and a half from a very high island, which bore N. E. by E. In this situation we had twenty- six fathom water ; the farthest point on the main that we could see bore N. W. ; but wo could perceive several small islands lying to the north of that direction. The point of land of which we were now abreast, and which I called Point Rodney, is the N. W. extremity of the river Thames ; for under that name I comprehend the deep bay which terminates in the fresh-water stream ; and the N. E. extremity is the promontory which we passed when we entered it, and which I called Cape Colville, in honour of the Right Honourable Lord Colville. Capo Colville lies in latitude 36° 26', longitude 184° 27' ; it rises directly from the sea to a considerable height, and is remarkable for a lofty rock which stands to the pitch of the point, and may be distinguished at a very great distance. From the south point of this capo the river runs in a direct line S. by E., and is nowhere less than three leagues broad for the distance of fourteen leagues above the cape, and there it is contracted to a narrow stream, but continues the same course through a low flat country, or broad valley, which lies parallel with the sea-coast, and the end of which we could not see. On the east side of the broad part of this river the land is tolerably high and hilly ; on the west side it is rather low, but the whole is covered with verdure and wood, and has the appearance of great fertility, though there were but a few small spots which had been cultivated. At the entrance of the narrow part of the river the land is covered with mangroves and other shrubs ; but farther, there are immense woods of perhaps the finest timber in the world, of which some account has already been given. In several places the wood extends to the very edge of the water, and where it is at a little distance, the intermediate space is marshy, like some parts of the banks of the Thames in England. It is probable that the river contains plenty of fish, for wc saw poles stuck up in many places to set nets for catching them ; but of what kinds I do not know. The greatest depth of water that wc found in this river was six-and-twenty fathom, which gradually decreased to one fathom and a half. In the mouth of the fresh-water stream it is from four to three fathom, but there are large flats and sand-banks lying before it. A ship of moderate draught may, notwithstanding, go a long way up this river with a flowing tide ; for it rises perpendicularly near ten feet, and at the full and change of the moon it is high-water about nine o'clock. Six leagues within Cape Colville, under the eastern shore, are several small islands, which, together with the main, seem to form good harbours ; and opposite to these islands, under the western shore, lie other islands, by which it is also probable that good harbours may be > i; i I ' M IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k 1 // O ^ >^ ^ ,.V ^ 1.0 I.I ittlM |U r us 12.0 L25 mi 1.4 ill 1.6 Photographic .Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WnSTIR.N.Y. MStO (716) •72-4503 V V 4 ."''» ' <» *> * ^^ o^ 1.^2 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Nov. i7ca. ,'' It if ■lit ill I 4 ' ^ I i fi)rmc(l. But if tlicrc arc no harhoiirs about this river, there is good arifhoring in every part (if it wliorc tlic depth of water is sufiieicnt ; for it is defended bom tlio sea by a chain of islands of different extent, which ho cross the mouth of it, and which 1 have, fur that reason, called Barrirr Islamis : they stretch N.W. and S.E. ten leagues. The south end of the c'lain !ie« N.E., between two and three leagues from Capo Colvillo ; and the north end lies N.E., f'jnr leagues and a half from Point Rodney. Point Rodney lies W.N.W., nine leajrues from Cajjo Colvillo, in latitudo 3(>° 15' S., longitude 184° 53' W. The natives residing about this river do not appear to be numerous, considering the great extent of the country. But they arc strong, well-made, and active people, and all of them paint their bodies with red ochro and oil from head to foot, which wo had not seen before. Their canoes were largo and well built, and adorned with carving, in as good a taste as any that we had seen upon the coast. We continued to stand along the shore till night, with the mainland on one side, and islands on the other, and then anchored in a bay, with fourteen fathom, and a sandy bottom. We had no sooner come to an anchor, than we tried our lines, and in a short time caught near one hundred fish, which the people called sea-bream ; they weighed from six to eight pounds a-piecc, and consequently would supply the whole ship's company with food for two days. From the success of our lines here, we called the piaco Bkeam Bay : the two points that form it lie north and south, five leagues from each other ; it is everywhere of a good breadth, and between three and four leagues deep : at the bottom of it there appears to be a rivet of fresh water. The north head of the bay, called Bream Head, is high land, and remarkable for several pointed rocks, which stand in a range upon the top of it : it may also be known by some small islands which lie before it, called the Hen and Chickens, «>ne of which is high, and terminates in two peak-^. It lies in latitude 35° 46' S., and .it the distance of seventeen leagues and a half from Cape Colvillc, in the direction of X. 41 W. The land Iwtween Point Rodney and Bream Head, an extent of ten leagues, is low, and wooded in tufts, with white sand banks between the sea and the firm lands. We saw no inhabitants, but many fires in the night; and where there are fires, there arc always people. At day-break, on the 25th, we left the bay, and steered along shore to the northward : we found the variation of the compass to be l^" 42' E. At noon, our latitude was 35° .16' S., Bream Head bore south, distant ten miles; and we saw some small islands, to which I gave the name of the Poor Knights, at N.E. by N., distant three leagues; the northern- most land in sight bore N.N.W. : we were in this place at the distance of two miles from the Bhr>re, and had twenty-six fathom water. The country a])j)eared low, but well covered with wood : we saw some straggling houses, three or four fortified towns, and near them a large quantity of cultivated laud. In the evening, seven large canoes came off to us, with about two hundred men : some of them came on board, and said that they had heard of us. To two of them, who appeared to be chiefs, I gave presents ; but when these were gone out of the ship, the others became exceedingly troublesome. Some of those in the canoes began to trade, and, according to their custom, to cheat, by refusing to deliver what had been bought, after they had received the price : among these was one who had received an old ])air of black breeches, which, upon r^ few small shot being fired at him, he threw into tile sea. All the boats soon after paddled off to some distance, and when they thought they were out of reach, they began to defy us, by singing their song, and brandishing their weapon'?. We thought it advisable to intimidate them, as well for their sakes as our own, and therefore fired first some small arms, and then round shot over their heads ; the last put them in a terrible fright, though they received no damage, except by overheating them- selves in |).iddling aw.iy, which they did with astonishing expedition. In the night we had variable Jight airs ; but tow.trds the morning, a breeze sprung up at S., and afterwards at S.E., with which wo proceeded slowly to the nortiiward, ahmg the shore. Between six and seven o'clock, two canoes came off, and told us that tlmy had heard of yesterday's adventure, notwithstanding which the peo]>le came on board, and traded very quietly and honestly for whatever they had : soon after, two canoes came off up at ng the had and Nov.irOO. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 153 from a more distant part of the sliore ; these were of a miicli larger size and full of people : wlien tlicy came near, tlity called oft" tlie other canoes whicli were alongside of the ship, and after a short conference they all came up together. Tiic strangers appeared to be ])er3on8 of a superior rank ; tiicir canoes were well carved witi i many ornaments, and they iiad with them a great variety of weapons: they had patoo-pa'ioos l)oth of stone and whale- bone, upon which they appeared to set a great value ; tliey had also ribs of whale, of wnich we had befiire seen imitations in wood, carved and adorned with tufts of dog's hair. Their complexions were browner than those of tlie people we had seen to the southward, and their bodies and faces were more marked with the black stains which tliey call Amoco : they had a broad spiral on each buttock ; and the thighs of many of them were almost entirely black, some narrow lines only being left untouched, so that at first sight they appeared to wear striped breeches. With respect to the Amoco, every diflfcrent tribe seemed to have a difterent custom ; for all the men, in some canoes, seemed to be almost covered with it, and those in others had scarcely a stain, except on the lija, which were black in all of them, without a single exception. These gentlemen, for a long time, refused to part witii any of their weapons, whatever was offered for them ; at last, however, one of them produced a piece of talc, wrought into the shape of an axe, and agreed to sell it for a piece of cloth : the cloth was handed over the ship's side, but his honour immediately put off his canoo with the axe. Wo had recourse to our usual expedient, and fired a musket-ball over the canoe, upon whicli it put back to the ship, and the piece of cloth was returned ; all the boats tlien went ashore, without offering any further intercourse. At noon, the mainland extended from S. by E. to X.W. by W., a remarkable point of land bearing W., distant four or five miles; at three we passed it, and I gave it the name of Cape Bret, in honour of Sir Piercy. The land of this cape is considerably higher tlian any part of the adjacent coast : at the point of it is a high round hillock, and >].E. by N., at the distance of about a mile, is a small high island or rock, which, like several that have already been described, was perforated quite through, so as to appear like tlie arch of a bridge. This cape, or at least some part of it, is by the natives called ^loTUGOfiooo, and it lies in latitude 35° 10' 30" S., longitude 18o° 25' W. On the west side of it is a largo and pretty deep bay, lying in S.W. by W., in which there appeared to be several small islands : the point that forms the N.W. entrance, lies W. | N., at the distance of three or four leagues from Cape Bret, and I distinguished it by the name of Point Pococke. On the west side of the bay, wc saw several villages, both upon islands and the main, and several very large canoes came off to us, full of people, who made a better appearance than any we had seen yet : they were all stout and well made ; their hair, which was black, was tied up in a bunch on the crown of their heads, and stuck with white feathers. In each of the canoes were two or three chiefs, whose habits were of the best sort of cloth, and covered wit!i dog's skin, so as to make a^i agreeable appearance : most of these jjcople were marked w'tli the Amoco, like those who had been alongside of us before: their manner of trading v. as also equally fraudulent ; and the officers neglecting either to punish or fright them, or.e of the midshipmen who had been defrauded iu his bargain, had recourse, for reveng(!, to an exj/cdient which was equally ludicrous and severe : he got a fishing line, and when the man who had cheated him was close under the ship's side in his canoe, he heaved the lead with so good an aim, that the hook caught him by the backside ; he then pulled the line, and the man holding back, the hook broke in the shank, and the beard was left sticking in the flesh. During the course of this day, though we did not range more than six or eight leagues of the coast, we had alongside and on board the ship between four and five hundred of the natives, which is a proof that this part of the country is well inhabited. At eight o'clock the next morning, we were within a mile of a group of islands which lie close under the main, at the distance of two-and-twenty miles from Cape Bret, in the direction of N.W. by W. i W. At this place, having but little wind, wc lay about two hours, during which time several canoes came off, and sold us some fish, which we called Cavalles, and for that reason I gave the same name to the islands. These people were very insolent, frequently threatening us, even while they were selling their fish ; and when some more canoes came up, they began to pelt us with stones. Some small-shot were then fired, ■( ,, ^! m i.li^' f' 1'* ! ' lo4 COOKS FIKST VOYAGE ROUND THE U'OllLD. Nov. 17C9. and hit ono of tlicm while ho had a stono in his hand, in the very action of throwing it into the "hip : they did not, liowevor, dcaist, till some othcn had been wounded, and then they went away, and wc stood off to 8ca. The wind being directly against us, wo kept plying to windward till the 2Pth, when we had rather lost than gained ground ; I therefore bore up fur a bay which lies to the west- ward of '^'iiDO Bret ; at this time it was about two leagues to leeward of us ; and at about eleven o'clock we anchored under the south-west side uf one of the many islands which lino it on the south-east, in four fathom and a half water ; wc shoaled our water to this depth all at once, and if this had not happened, I should not have come to an anchor so soon. Tho master was immediately sent out with two boats to sound, and he soon discovered that wo had got upon a bank, which runs out from the north-west end of the island, and that on the outside of it there was from eight to ten fathom. In the mean time the natives, to the number of near four hundred, crowded upon us in their canoes, and some of them were admitted on board : to one, who seemed to bo a chief, I gave a piece of broad-cloth, and distributed some trifling presents among the rest. I perceived that some of these people had been about the ship when she was oft' at sea, and that they knew the power of our fire-arms, for the very sight of a gun threw them inta manifest confusion : imder this impression, they traded very fairly; but the people in ono of the canoes took the opportunity of our being at dinner to tow away our buoy : a musket was fired over them without effect, wo then endeavoured to reach them with somo small shot, but they were too far oflf : by this time they had got the buoy into their canoe, and wo were obliged to fire a musket at them with bail : this hit one of them, and they immediately threw the buoy overboard : a round shot was then fired over them, which struck the water and went ashore. Two or three of the canoes immediately landed their people, who ran about the ''>each, as wc imagined, in search of the ball. Tupia called to them, and assured them that, while they were honest, they should be safe, and with a littlo persuasion many of them returned to the ship, and their behaviour was such as left us no reason to suspect that they interdcd to give us any farther trouble. After the ship was removed into deeper water, and properly secured, I went with the pinnace and yawl, manned and armed, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandcr, and landed upon the island, which was about three-quartei> of a mile distant. We observed that the canoes which were about the ship did not follov< us upon our leaving her, which wc thought a good sign ; but wc had no sooner landed than they crowded to different parts of the island and came on shore. "SVe were in a little cove, and in a few minutes were sur- rounded by two or three hundred people, some rushing from behind the heads of tho cove, and others appearing on the tops of the hills : they were all armed, but they came on in so confused and straggling a manner that we scarcely suspected they meant us any harm, and we were detenniued that hostili- ties should not begin on our part. We marched towards them, and then drew a line upon tho sand between them and us, which wo gave them to understand they were not to pass. At first they continued quiet, but their weapons were held ready to strike, and they seemed to be rather irre- solute than peaceable. While we remained in this state of suspense, another party of Indians came up, and now growing more bold as their number increased, they began the dance and song, which are their pre- ludes to a battle; still, however, they delayed tho attack, but a party ran to each ME«r ZFJkLAMDF.il, IN WAR COSTUHR, CIVING A t'lUI.LKNliK. Nov. 1700. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 155 of o«r boats, and attempted to draw tlicni on shore : tins Bcemcd to be the signal, for the people about us at tlie same time beg.an to press in upon our line. Our situation was now become too critical for us to remain longer inactive ; I therefore discharged my musket, whicli was loaded with small-shot, at one of the forwardest, and Mr. Pinks and two of the men fired immediately afterwards. Tiiis made them fall back in some contuslv-n ; but one of the chiefs, who was at the distance of about twenty yards, rallied them, and running forward, waving his patoo-patoo, and calling loudly to his companions, led them to the charge. Dr. So^inder, whoso piece was not yet discharged, fired at this champion, who stopped short upon feeling the shot, and then ran away with the rest ; they did not, however, disperse, but got together upon a rising ground, and seemed oidy to want some leader of resolution to renew their attack. As they were now beyond the reach of small-shot, we fired with ball ; but as none of them took place, they still continued in a body, and in this situation wc remained about a quarter of an hour. In the mean time the ship, from whence a much greater number of Indians were seen than could be discovered in our situation, brought her broadside to bear, and entirely dispersed them by firing a few shot over their heads. In this skirmish only two of the Indians were hurt with the small-shot, and not a single life was lost, whicli would not have been the case if I had not restrained the men, who, cither from fear or the love of mischief, showed as much impatience to destroy them as a sportsman to kill his game. When wo were in quiet possession of our cove, we laid down our arms and began to gather celery, which grow here in groat plenty. After a little time, wo recollected to have seen some of the people hide themselves in a cavo of one of the rocks ; we therefore went towards the place, when an old Indian, who proved to be the chief that I had presented with a piece of broad-cloth in the morning, came out with his wife and his brother, and in a supplicating posture put themselves under our protection. Wc spoke kindly to them, and the old man then told us that he had another brother, who was one of those that had been wounded by the small-shot, and inquired with much solicitude and concern if ho would die. We assured him that he would not, and at the same time put into his hand both a musket-ball and some small-shot, telling him that those only who were wounded with the ball would die, and that the others would recover ; at the same time assuring him, that if wo were attacked again, we should certainly defend ourselves with the ball, whicli would wound them mortally. Having now taken courage, they came and sat down by us, and as tokens of our perfect amity, we made them presents of such trifles as we happened to have about us. Soor. after, we rc-embarkcd in our boats, and having rowed to another cove in the same island, climbed a neighbouring hill which commanded the country to a considerable distance. The prospect was very uncommon and romantic, consisting of innumerable islands, which formed as many harbours, where the water was as smooth as a mill-pool. We saw also many towns, scattered houses, and plantations, the country being much more populous than any we had seen. One of the towns was very near us, from which many of the Indians advanced, taking great pains to show us that they were unarmed, and in their gestures and countenances expressing great meekness and humility. In the mean time some of our people, who, when the Indians were to be punished for a fraud, assumed the inexorable justice of a Lycurgus, thought fit to break into one of their plantations, and dig up some potatoes ; for this oflfence I ordered each of them to be punished with twelve lashes. After which two of them were discharged ; but the third, insisting that it was no crime in an Englishman to plunder an Indian ])lantation, though it was a crime in an Indian to defraud an Englishman of a nail, I ordered him back into his confinement, from which I would not release him till he had received six lasiics more. On the 30tli, there being a dead calm, and no probability of our getting to sea, I sent the master, with two boats, to sound the harbour ; and all the forenoon had several canoes about the ship, who traded in a very fair and friendly manner. In the evening, we went ashore upon the main, where the people received us very cordially ; but we found nothing worthy of notice. In this bay we were detained by contrary winds and calms several days, during which time our intercourse with the natives was continued in the most peaceable and friendly manner, they being frequently about the ship, and we ashore, both upon the islands and the main. In one of our visits to the continent, an old man showed us the instnmient they use 't Ml 1 •' ii )' I n i,'i 150 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Dec. 1709. in tlio staining tlicir bodies, wliicli exactly resembled those that were employed for the same purpose at Otahcite. Wo saw also the man who was wounded in attempting to steal our buoy : the ball had passed through the fleshy part of his arm, and grazed his breast ; but tho wound, under tho caro of nature, tho best surgeon, and a simple diet, the best nurse, was in a good state, and seemed to give the patient neither pain nor apprehension. We saw also tho brother of our old chief, who had been wounded with small-shot in our sldrmish : they had struck his thigh obliquely, and tiiough several of them were still in the flesh, the wound seemed to bo attended with neither danger nor pain. We found among their plantations the morug papyrifera, of which these people, as well as those of Otahcite, make cloth ; but here the plant seems to bo rare, and we saw no pieces of the cloth large enough for any use but to wear by way of ornament in their ears. Having one day landed in a very distant part of the bay, the people immediately fled, except one old man, who accompanied us wherever we went, and seemed much pleased with tho little presents we made him. We came at last to a little fort, built upon a small rock, which at liigh water was surrounded by the sea, and accessible only by a ladder : we per- ceived that he eyed us with a kind of restless solicitude as we approached it, and, vipon our expressing a desire to enter it, he told us that his wife was there. He saw that our curiosity was not diminished by this intelligence, and after some hesitation ho said, if we would promise to offfer no indecency, he would accompany us : our promise was readily given, and lie immediately led the way. The ladder consisted of steps fastened to a pole, but we found the ascent both difficult and dangerous. When we entered, we found three women, who, the moment they saw us, burst into tears of terror and surprise : some kind words and a few presents soon removed their apprehensions, and put them into good-humour. We examined the house of our old friend, and by his interest two others, which were all that tho fortification contained ; and having distributed a few more presents, we parted with mutual satisfaction. At four o'clock in the morning of the 5th of December, we weighed, with a light breeze ; but it being variable, with frequent calms, we made little way. We kept turning out of the bay till the afternoon, and about ten o'clock we were suddenly becalmed, so that the ship would neither wear nor stay ; and the tide or current setting strong, she drove towards land so fast that, before any measures could be taken for her security, she was within a cable's length of the breakers. We had thirteen fathom water, but the ground was so foul that we did not dare to drop our anchor ; the pinnace, therefore, was immediately hoisted out to take the ship in tow, and the men, sensible of their danger, exerting themselves to the utmost, and a faint breeze springing up ofi^ the land, we perceived, with unspeakable joy, that she made head- way, after having been so near the shore that Tupia, who was not sensible of our hair's- breadth escape, was at this very time conversing with tho people upon the bciich, whoso voices were distinctly heard, notwithstanding the roar of tho breakers. We now thought all danger was over, but about an hour afterwards, just as the man in the chains had cried " seventeen fathom," the ship struck. The shock threw us all into the utmost consternation ; Mr. Banks, who had undressed himself, and was stepping into bed, ran hastily up to the deck, and the man in the chains called out " five fathom ;" by this time, the rock on which we had struck being to windward, the ship went oflF without having received the least damiige, and the water very soon deepened to twenty fathom. Tliis rock lies half a mile W.N.W. of the northernmost or oi'termost island on the S.E. side of tho bay. Wo had light airs from the land, with calms, till nine o'clock the next morn- ing, when we got out of the bay ; and a breeze springing up at N.N. W., we stood out to sea. This bay, as I have before observed, lies on the west side of Cape Bret, and I named it the Bay of Islands, from the great number of islands which line its shores, and from several harbours equally safe and commodious, where there is room and depth for any number of shipping. Tiiat in which wc lay is on the south-west side of tho south-westernmost island, called Maturaro, on i!ie south-east side of the bay *. I have made no accurate survey of • The B;iy of Isliiiids lias long been the principal resort for the whole ships; upwards of thirty of \vhi:;li have been at anrlior there at the Siimc time, from the ports of (.ireat nritiiin, America, France, and New Holland ; besides several tcsbcIb engaged iu other commercial pursuits, who arc all ccrtiiin to tind ample refreshment. One of tho principal luissinnar}' estahlishnients is near tho U»y of Islands, and considerable tracts of thg neighbouring coun- try are in the hands of English colonists. — Ud. 'ti^a^tep. Dec. 1709. COOKS FlllST VOYAGE ROUND THE WOULD. 157 this bay, heing discouraged by the time it would cost mo ; I thought also that it was suffi- cient to bo able to affirm that it affi)rdcd us good anchorage and refreshmont of every kind. It was not the season for roots ; but we had plenty of fish, most of which, however, wc purchased of the natives, for wo could catch very little ourselves either with net or line. Wiien wc showed the natives our seine, which is such as the King's ships are generally furnished with, they laughed at it, and in triumph produced their own, which was indoe(l of an enormous size, and made of a kind of grass, whicli is very strong : it was five fathom deep, and, by the room it took up, it could not be less than three or four hundred fathom long ; fishing seems, indeed, to be the chief business of life in this piirt of the country. Wc saw about all their towns a great number of nets, laid in heaps like hay-cocks, ":.d covered with a thatch to keep them from the weather ; and we scarcely entered a house where some of the people were not employed in making them. The fish wc procured here were i^harks, sting-rays, sea-bream, mullet, mackerel, and some others. VIEW IN TIIK BAV OF ISLANDS. The inhabitants in this bav are far more numerous than in any other part of the country that we had before visited ; "it did not appear to us that they were united under one head, and though their towns were fortified, they seemed to live together in perfect amity. It is high-water in this bay at the full and change of the nioon, about eight o'clock, and the tide then rises from six to eight feet perpendicularly. It appears, from such observations as I was able to make of the tides upon the sea-coast, that the flood comes from the southward ; and I have reason to think that there is a current which comes from the westward, and sets along the shore to the S.E. or S.S.E. as the hind happens to lie. CHAPTER V. HANGE FROM THE RAY OF ISLANDS ROUND NORTH CAPE TO ai'EEN CUARLOTTE's SOUND ; AND A DESCRIPTION OF THAT PART OF THE COAST. On Thursday the 7th of December, at noon, Cape Bret bore S. S. E. ^ E. distant ten miles, and our latitude, by observation, was W C»\Y S. ; soon after we made^ several observ- ations of tlic sun and moon, the result of which made our longitude 185° 30' W. The wind being against us, we had made but little way. In the afternoon, wo stood in shore. i-l-! n^jjR m ;j( t! vN 158 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Dec. 1760. t ■ 1 1 ^ • iLi' and fetched close under tlio Cavallcs, from whicli islands the main trends W. by N. ; several canoes put off and followed us, but a light breeze springing up, I did not choose to wait for them. I kei)t standing to the W.N.W. and N.W. till the next morning ten o'clock, when I tacked and stood in for the shore, from which wo were about live leagues distant. At noon, the westernmost land in sight bore W. by 8. and was about four leagues distant. In the afternoon, wo had a gentle brcessc to the west, which in the evening came to the south, and continuing so all night, by day-light brought us pretty well in with tho land, seven leagues to the westward of the Cavallcs, where wo found a deep bay running in S.W. by W. and "W.S.W. tho bottom of which we could but just sec, and there the land appeared to bo low and level. To this bay, whicli I called DornxLESs Bay, ihc entrance ia formed by two points, which lie W.N.W. and E.8.E. and are five miles distant from each other. The wind not permitting us to look in here, we steered for the westernmost land in sight, which bore from us W. N. W. about three leagues ; but before we got tho length of it, it fell calm. While we lay becalmed, several canoes came off to us ; but tho people having heard of our guns, it was not without great difficulty that they were persuaded to come under our stern : after having bought some of their clothes, as well as their fish, we began to make inquiries concerning their country, and leanit, by the help of Tupia, that, at the distance of three days' rowing in their canoes, at a place called Moorewennua, the land wotdd take a short turn to the southward, and from thence extend no more to the west. This place wo con- cluded to be the land discovered by Tasman, which ho called Cape JiAniA van Diemen, and finding these people so intelligent, we inquired farther, if they knew of any country besides their own : they answered, that they never had visited any other, hut that their ancestors had told them, that to the N.W. by N. or N.N.W. there was a country of great extent, called Ulimaroa, to whicli some people had sailed in a very large canoe ; that only part of them returned, and reported, that after a passage of a month they had seen a country where the people cat hogs. Tupia then inquired whether these adventurers brought any hogs with them when they returned ; they said, No. Then, replied Tupia, your story is certainly false, for it cannot be believed that men who came back from an expedition without hogs, had ever visited a country where hogs were to be procured. It is, however, remarkable, notwithstanding the shrewdness of Txipja's objection, that when they mentioned hogs, it was not by description, but by name ; calling them Booah, the name which is given them in the South-sea islands ; but if the animal had been wholly unknown to them, and they had had no communication with people to whom it was known, they could not possibly have been acquainted with the name. About ten o'clock at night, a breeze sprung up .at W.N.W. with which we stood off north ; and at noon the next day, the Cavalles borb S.E., by E. distant eight licngues ; the entrance of Doubtless Bay S. by W., distant three leagues ; and the north-west extremity of the land in sight, which wo judged to be tho main, bore N.W. by W. : our latitude by observation was 34° 44' S. In the evening, we found the variation to be 12" 41' E. by tho azimuth, and 12" 40' by the amplitude. Early in the morning, we stood in with the land, seven leagues to the westward of Doubtless Bay, the bottom of which is not far distant from the bottom of another large bay, which the shore forms at this place, being separated only by a low neck of land, «»hich juts out into a peninsula that I have called Knuckle Point. About the middle of this bay, whicli we called Sandy Bay, is a high mountain, standing upon a distant shore, to which I gave the name of Mount Camel. Tlie latitude here is 34" .11' S. and longitude 186" 50'. We had twenty-four and twenty-five fathom water, with a good bottom ; but there seems to be nothing in this bay that can induce a ship to put into it ; fur the land about it is utterly barren and desolate, and, except Mount Camel, the situation is low : the soil appears to be nothing but white sand, thrown up in low irregular hills and narrow ridges, lying parallel with the shore. But barren and desolate as this place is, it is not without inha- bitants : wo saw one village on the west side of Mount Camel, and another on the cast side ; we saw also five canoes full of people, who pulled after the ship, but could not come up with us. At nine o'clock, we tacked and stood to the northward ; and at noon, the Cavalles Dkc. 17C0. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. l.V.> bore S. E. by F,., distant thirteen leagues ; tlic north extremity of the land in sight, making like an island, bore N. W. | N.. diutnut nine leagues; and Mount Camel bore S. W. by fc>., distance six leagues. The wind being contrary, wo kept plying northward till five o'clock in the cvening|of the 12tli, when, having made very little way, wo tauked and 8t«)od to the N.E., being two leagues to the northward of Mount Camel, and about a mile and a half from the shore, in which situation wo had two-and-twenty fathom water. At ten, it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double-reefed topsails ; at twelve, we tacked and stood to the west- ward till seven tho next morning, when wo tacked and stood again to the N.E., being about a mile to windward of the place where wc tacked last night. Soon after, it blew very hard at N. N. W., with heavy squalls and much rain, which brought us under our courses, and split the maintopsail ; so tliat wo were obliged to unbend it and bend another : at ten, it became more moderate, and wo set tho topsails, double-reefed : at noon, having strong gales and heavy weather, wo tacked and stood to tho westward, and had no land in sight for the first timo since wo had been upon this coast. We had now strong gales at W. and W.S.AV. ; and at half an hour post three wo tacked and stood to the northward. Soon after, a small island lying off Knuckle Point bore S. ] W., distant half a league. In the evening, having split the fore and mizcn topsails, wc brought the ship under her courses ; and at midnight, wo wore and stood to the south- ward till five in the morning; when wc tacked and stood to tho N.W., and saw land bearing south, at the distance of eight or nine leagues ; by this we discovered that wo had fallen much to the leeward since yesterday morning. At noon our latitude by observation was 34° G' S. ; and tho same land which wc hrfd seen before to tho N.W. now boro S.W., and appeared to bo the northern extremity of the country. Wc had a large swell rolling in from the westward, and, therefore, concluded that wc were not covered by any land in that quarter. At eight in tho evening, wo tacked and stood to the westward, with as much sail as wc could bear ; and at noon the next day, we were in latitude 34° 10', longi- tude 185" 45' W., and by estimation about seventeen leagues from the land, notwithstanding our utmost endeavours to keep in with it. On the l(>th, at six in the morning, wo saw land from tho mast-head, bearing S.S.W. ; and at noon it boro S. by W., distant fourteen leagues : while wo were standing in for tho shore, wc sounded several times, but had no ground with ninety fathom. At eight, wo tacked in a hundred and eight fathom, at about thrco or four miles from the shore, which was the same point of land that wo had to the N.W. before wo were blown off. At noon, it bore S.W., distant about three miles ; ISIount Camel bore S. by E., distant about eleven leagues, and the westernmost land in sight boro S. 75 W. ; tho latitude by observation was 34° 20' S. At four o'clock, we tacked and stood in shoro, in doing which, we met with a strong rippling, and tho ship fell fast to leeward, which wc imputed to a current setting east. At eight, wc tacked and stood off till eight the next morning, when wo tacked and stood in, being about ten leagues from tho land : at noon, the point of land which we were near tho day before bore S.S. W., distant five leagues. The wind still continued at west ; and at seven o'clock, wc tacked in thirty-five fathom, when the point of land which has been mentioned before bore N.W. by N., distant four or five miles ; so that we had not gained one inch to windward the last twenty-four hours, which confirmed our opinion that there was a current to tho eastward. The point of land I called NonTii Cape, it being tho northern extremity of this country. It lies in latitude 34° 22' S., longitude 186° 55' W., and thirty- one leagues distant from Cape Bret, in tho direction of N. (S W. It folms the north point of Sandy Bay, and is a peninsula jutting out N. E. about two miles, and termi- nating in a bluff head that is flat at the top. Tho isthmus which joins this head to the mainland is very low, and for that reason the land of the cape, from several situations, has tho appearance of an island. It is still more remarkable when it is seen from the south- ward, by the appearance of a high round island at the S.E. point of the capo ; but this also is a deception ; for what appears to bo an island is a round hill, joined to the cape by a low narrow neck of land. Upon tho capo wc saw a Hippah or village, and a few inhabitants ; and on the south-east sido of it, there appears to be anchorage, and good shelter from the south-west and north-west winds. ■J 'I lM>ut seven oV-lock in the evening, we saw land from the niaHt-head, bearing S. ^ K. At eleven the next morning, we saw it again, bearing S.S.K. at the di; iapce of eight leagues : wc now st(M»d to the 8.W. ; and at four o'clock, tlio land boro S.E. by S. distant four leagues and proved to be a small island, with other islands or rocks, still smuilcr, lying off the south-west end of it, and another lying off tho north-east end, which were discovered by Tasnun, and called the Three Kings. Tho principal i.sland lies in latitude 34° 12' S., longitude 187" 4H' W., and distant fourteen or fifteen leagues from tho North Cape, in tho direction of \v. 14 N. At midnight, wc tacked and stood tu tho N.E. till six tho next morning, which was Christmas-day, when wo tacked and stood to tho southward. At noon, tho Tlirco Kings bore E. 8 N. distant five or six leagues. Tho variation this morning by tho azimuth was 11° 25' E. On the 26th, we stood to the southward close upon a wind ; and at noon, were in latitudo 35» 10' S., longitude 188° 20' W., tho Three Kings bearing N. 20 W. distant twenty-two leagues. In this situation wc had no land in sight ; and yet, by observation, wo were in the latitudo of the Bay of Islands ; and by my reckoning but twenty leagues to the westward of North Cape : from whence it oppears, that the nortliern part of this island is very narrow; for otherwise we must have seen some part of the west side of it. We stood to the south- ward till twelve at night, and then tacked and stood to the northward. At four o'clock in the morning, the wind freshened, and at nine, blew a storm ; so that "WC were obliged to bring the ship. to under her mainsail. Our course made good between noon this day and yesterday was S.S.W. ^ W., distance eleven miles. Tho Three Kings bore N. 27 E., distant seventy-seven miles. The gale continued all this day, and till two the next morning, when it fell, and began to veer to the southward and S.W., where it fixed about four, when we made sail and steered cast in for the land, under the foresail and main- sail ; but the wind then rising, and by eight o'clock being increased to a hurricane, with a prodigious sea, we were obliged to take in the mainsail ; we then wore tho ship, and brought her to with her head to the north-west. At noon the gale was somewhat abated, but we had still heavy squalls. Our course made good this day was north, a little easterly, twenty- nine miles ; latitude by account 34° 50' S., longitude 188° 27' W. ; the Three Kings bore N. 41 E. distant fifty-two miles. At seven o'clock in tho evening, the wind being at S.W. and S.W. by W., with hard squalb, we wore and lay on the other tack ; and at six tho next morning, spread more sail. Our course and distance since yesterday was E. by N. twenty- nine miles. In the afternoon, we had hard squalls at S.W. ; and at eight in the evening, wore and stood to the N.W. till five tho next morning ; and then wore and stood to tiio S.E. At six, we saw the Land bearing N.E., distant about six leagues, which wo judged to be Cape Maria Van Diemen, and which corrcsnoiuled with the account that had been given of it by the Indians. At midnight we wore and stood to the S.E. And on the next day at noon, Cape 3Iaria Van Diemen bore N.E. by N., distant about five leagues. At seven in the evening, we tacked and stood to the westward, with a moderate breeze at S.W. by S. and S.W. Alount Camel then bore N. 83 £., and the northernmost land, or Cape Maria Van Diemen, N. by W. ; we were now distant from the nearest land about three leagues, where we had something more than forty fathom water ; and it must be remarked, that Mount Camel, which when seen on the other side did not seem to be more than one mile from the sea, seemed to be but little more when seen from this side ; which is a demon- stration that the land here cannot be more than two or three miles broad, or from sea to sea. At six o'clock in the morning of January the 1st, 1770, being New-year's day, we tacked and stood to the eastward, the Three Kings bearing N.W. by N. At noon we tacked again, and stood to the westward, being in latitude 34° 37' S. ; the Three Kings bearing N.W. by N. at the distance of ten or eleven leagues ; and Capo Maria Van Diemen N. 31° E., distant about four leagues and a half: in this situation w^e had fifty-four fathom water. During this part of our navigation, two particulars are very remarkable ; in latitude 35° S., and in the midst of summer, I met with a gale of wind, which for its strength and Jan. 1770. COOK'S FinsT voya(;e uound the m'oklp. Ml continuance, was such as I liad scarcely cvrr been in before ; and wc wen; tlirco weeks in getting ten leagues tu the wentward, and five weeks in getting Hfty leagues, for at tliis time it was* so long since wo passed ( 'ape Hret. During the gale wo were happily at a considerulilo distance from the land, otherwise it is highly probable that wo should never have returned to relate our adventures. At five o'clock in the evening, having a fresh breexn to the wcHtward, wo tacked and stood to the southward : at this time North (*iipe bore E. .^ N., and just open of a ]>oiiit that lies three leagues W. by N. from it. Tliis cape, as I have «»lwerved before, is the northernmost extremity of this country, and the easternmost point of a ])eninsula, which runs out N.W. and N.W. by N. seventeen or eighteen h'agues, and of wliidi Cape Maria Van Diemen is the westernmost point. Cape Maria lii-s in latitude ',W ',W S., lonuitutlo 107" 18' W. ; and from this point the land trends away S.E. by S. and S.K. beyond Mount Camel, and is everywhere a barren shore, consii^ting of banks of white sand. On the 2nd, at noon, wo were in latitude MiV 17' S., and Cape Maria bore north, distant about sixteen leagues, as near as we could guess ; for we had no land in Hi<,'ht, and did not dare to go nearer, as a fresh gale blew right on shore, with a rolling sea. Tiio wind continued at W.S.W. and S.W., witli frequent stiuails; in the evening wc shortened sail, and at midnight tacked, and made a trip t<» the N.AV. till two in the morning, when wc wore and stood to tlie southward. At break of day we made sail, and edged away, in order to make land ; and at ten o'clock we saw it, bearing N.W. It appeared to be high, and at noon extended from N. to lO.N.E., distant by estimation eight or ten leagues. Cape Maria then bore N. 2" 'M' W., distant thirty-three leagues ; our latitude by observation was 'MV' 2' S. About seven o'clock in the evening, we were within six leagues of it ; but liaving a fresli galo upon it, with a rolling sea, we hauled our wind to the S.E., antl kept on that course close upon the wind all night, sounding several times, but having no ground with one hundred, and one hundred and ten fathom. At eight o'clock the next morning, wc were about five leagues from the land, and off a place which lies in latitude 30° 2;*!', and had the appearance of a bay or inlet. It bore east ; and in order to see more of it, we kept on our course till eleven o'clock, when we were not more than three leagues from it, and then discovered that it was neither inlet nor bay, but a tract of low land, bounded by higher lands on each side, which produced the deception. At this time wo tacked and stood to the N.W. ; and at noon the land was not distant more than three or four leagues. AVo were now in latitude 'M'f 31' S., longitude Uiii" 50' W. Cape Maria bore N. 25 W., distant forty-four leagues and a half ; so tliat the coast must bo almost straight in the direction of S.S.E. | E. and N.N.W. ^ AV. nearly. In about latitude .Sii" 45' is some high land adjoining to the sea ; to the southward of which the shore is also high, and has the most desolate and inhospitable appearance that can bo imagined. Nothing is to be seen but hills of sand, on which there is scarcely a blade of verdure ; and a vast sen, impelled by the westerly winds, breaking ujiou it in a dreadful surf, renders it not only forlorn, but frightful ; complicating the idea of danger with desolatiou, and impressing tho mind at once with a sense of misery and death. From tiiis place I steered to the northw.ard, resolving never more to come within the same distance of the coast, except the wind should be very favourable indeed. I stood under a fresli sail all the day, hoping to get an oiling by the next noon, and we made good a course of a hundred and two miles N. '.i8 W. Our latitude by observation was 35° 10' S. ; and Cape Maria bore N. 10 E., distance forty-one miles. In the night, the wind shifted from S.W. by S. to S., and blew fresli. Our course to the noon of the 5th was N. 75 W., distance eight miles. At day-break on the (ith, we saw the land, which we took to be Cape Maria, bearing N.N.E., distant eight or nine leagues ; and on the 7tli, in the afternoon, tlio land bore east : and some time after we discovered a turtle upon the water ; but being awake, it dived instantly, so that we could not take it. At noon the high land, which has just been mentioned, extended from N. to E., at the distance of five or six leagues ; and in two places a flat gave it the api)earance of a bay or inlet. The course that we made good tiie last four-and-twenty hours was S, 33 E. fifty-three miles; Cape i\Iaria bearing N. 25 W., distant thirty leagues. We ciailed within sight of land all this day, witli gentle gales \-' «' h ; ' fl f« 102 C(H>KS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Jan. 1770. between tlio X.K. aiui N.W. ; nnd hy tlio next noon line or four leagues of tho land, which apjteared to bu low and sandy. I then steered S.E. by S. in a direction parallel with thu coast, having fron. forty-eight to thirty-four fathom water, with a black sandy bottom. At daybreak tho next morning, wu found ourselves between two and three leagues from the land, which began to have a better appearance, rising in gentle slopes, and being covered with trees and herbago. Wu saw a smoko and a few bouses, but it api^cared to bo but thinly inhabited. At seven o'clock, wc steered S. by E., and afterwards S. by W., tho land lying in that direction. At nine, wo were abreast of a point which rises with an cosy ascent from tho sea to a considerable height : this point, which lies in latiti.-'c 37' 4.T, I named Wuonv IIkad. About eleven miles from this head, in the direction of S.W. ^ W., lies a very small island, upon which wo saw a great number of gannets, and which we, therefore, called Gannkt Island. At noon, a high craggy point bore E.N.E., distant nl>out a league and a half, to which I gave the name of ALUAxnoss Poi.NT : it lies in latitude 38° 4' S., longitude 184° 42' W. ; and is distant seven leagues in the direction of S. 17 ^V', from Woody Head. On the north sido of this point the shore forms a bay, in which there appears to be anchorage and shelter for shipping. Our course and distance for the lost twenty ';fot!r hours was S. 3? E., sixty-nino miles ; and at noon this day Cape Maria bore N. W W., distant eighty-two leagues. Between twelve and one, the wind shifted at once from N.N.E. to S.S.W., with which wo stood to tho westward till four o'clock in the afternoon ; and then tacked, and stood again in shore till seven ; when we tacked again and stood to the westward, having hut little wind. At this time Albatross Point bore N.E., distant near two leagues, and tho southernmost land in sight bore S.S.W. ^ W., being a very high mountain, and in appearance greatly resembling the Peak of Teneriffe. In this situation wc bad thirty fathom water, and having but little wind all night, wc tacked about four in the morning, and stood in for the shore. Soon after, it fell calm ; and being in forty-two fathom water, the people caught a few sea-bream. At eleven, a light breeze sprung up from the west, and we matle sail to the southward. Wc continued to steer S. by AV., and S.S.W. along the shore, at the distance of about four leagues, with gentle breezes from between N.W. and N.N.E. At seven in the evening, we saw the top of the peak to the southward, above the clouds, which concealed it below. And at this time, the southernmost land in sight bore S. by W. ; the variation, by several azimuths which were taken both in the morning and the evening, appeared to be 14° lo' easterly. At noon on the 12th, wc were distant about three leagues from tho shore which lies under the peak, but the peak itself was wholly concealed by clouds : wc judged it to bear about S.S.E. ; and some very remarkable peaked islands, which lay under the shore, bore E.S.E., distant three or f»ur leagues. At seven in tho evening we sounded, and had forty- two fathom, being distant from the shore between two and three leagues : we judged the peak to bear east ; and after it was dark, we saw fires upon the shore. At five o'clock in the morning we saw, for a few minutes, the summit of the peak, towering above the clouds, and covered with snow. It now bore N.E. ; it lies in latitude 39° 16 S., longitude 185° 15' W. ; and I named it Mount Egmont, in honour of the Earl. It seems to have a large base, and to rise with a gradual ascent ; it lies near the sea, and is surrounded by a flat country, of a pleasant appearance, being clothed with verdure and wood, which renders it the more conspicuous, and the shore under it forms a large cape, which I have named Cape Egmont. It lies S.S.AV. ^ W., twenty-seven leagues distant from Albatross Point, and on the fiorth side of it are two small islands, which lie near a remarkable point on the main, that rises to a considerable height in the form of a sugar- loaf. To the southward of the cai>c, the land trends away S.IO. by E. and S.S.E., and seems to be everywhere a bold shore. At noon, Cape Egmont bore about N.E. ; and in this direction, at about four leagues from the shore, wo had forty fathom of water. Tlie \ '\ Jan. 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOVAGE HOI'ND THE WOULD. 18ft wintl during tlio rest u( tlio day wa« from W. to N.W. by AV., and wo continued to stt or along tlio Hhore S.8.K. and S.K. I>y IC, ki-eping at tliu distance of bitween two or tliieo Icagtu'H. At lialf an hour after neven, we had another transient view uf Mount I'gniont, whieh bore N. 17 W., distant about ten leagues. At five the next morning, wo steered H.E. by S., tlie coast inclining more southerly; and in about half an hour we saw land, bearing 8.W. by S., for which we liauled up. At noon, the north-west extremity of the land in sight bore S. (».') W,, and sonic high land, which liod the appearance of an island lying under the main, bore S.S.K., I'^stant five leagues. Wu were now in a bay, the bottom of which bearing south, we could not see, though it was clear in that quarter. Our latitude by observatutn wa« 40^ 27' S., longitude Uil' '.W AV. At eight in the evening, wo were within two leagues of the land which wo had discovered in the morning, having run ten leagues since noon : the land which then bore 8. (».') W., now bore N. 59 W., at the distance of seven or eight leagues, and had the appearance of an island. Between this land and C'ai'B Eomo.nt lies the bay, the west side of which was flur situation at this time, and the land hero is of n considerable height, and diversified by lull and valley. CHAPTER VI. — TRANMACTiO.N-i IN QUEEN CHARLOTTES SOUND*. PAHSAOB TItnOUGII THE STRAIT WHICH DIVIDES 'illE TWO ISLANDS, AND HACK TO TAPE Tl'KNAOAIN : IIORIOn CUSTOM OF THE INHAniTANTS : REMARKAItLE MELODY OF DIRD8 ; A VISIT TO A IIIITAH, AND MANY OTHER PARTICITLAR8. The shore at this place seemed to form several bays, into one of which I proposed to carry tho ship, which was bccoiiic very foul, in order to careen her, and at the same time repair some defects, and recruit our wood and water. With this view, I kept plying on and off all night, having from eighty to sixty-three fathom. At daybreak the next morning, I stood for an inlet which runs in 8.W. ; and at eight I got witliin tho entrance which may be known by a reef of rocks, stretching from tho north-west point, and some rocky inlands which lie off tho south-east point. At nine o'clock, there being little v/ind, and what there was being variable, we were carried by tho tide or current within two cables' length of tho north-west shore, where wo hud fifty-four fathom water, but by the help of our boats we got clear. Just at this time we saw a sea-lion riso twice near the shore, the head of which exactly resembled that of the male which has been described in the Account of Lord Anson''8 Voyage. We also ?aw some of the natives in a canoe cross tho bay, and a village situated upon the point of an island which lies seven or eight miles within the entrance. At noon, we were the length of this island, but there being little wind, the boats were ordered a-hcad to tow. About one o'clock, we hauled closo round tho south-west end of tho island ; and tho inhabitants of the village whicii was built upon it were immediately up in arms. About two, we anchored in a very safe and con- venient cove. Oil the north-west side of the bay, and facing the south-west end of tho island, in eleven fathom water, with soft ground, and muored with the stream anchor. We were about four long cannon-shot distant from the village or Hippah, from whicli four canoes were immediately despatched, as we imagined, to reconnoitre, and, if they should find themselves able, to take us. The men were all well armed, and dressed nearly as they are represented in the figure published by Tasinan ; two comers of tho cloth whicli they wrapped round tho body were passed over the shoulders from behind, and being brought down to the upper edge of it before, were made fast to it just under the breast ; but few, or none, had feathers in their hair. They rowed round the ship several times, with their usual tokens of menace and defiance, and at last began the assault by throwing some stones : Tupia expostulated with them, but apparently to very little purpose ; and we began to fear that they would oblige us to fire at them, when a very old man in one of the boats expressed a desire of coming on board. We gladly encouraged him in his design, a rope was thrown into his canoe, and she was immediately alongside of the ship : the old man rose up, and prepared to come up the ship's side, upon which all the rest expostulated with great vehemence against the attempt, and at M 2 \m I :' I i : 11 -I 'I . I ie4 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Jan. 1770. last laid hold of liim, and held him back : he adhered liowcvcr to his puqiose with a calm but steady perseverance, and having at length disengaged himself, he came on board. AVe received him with all possiltle expressions of friendship and kindness, and after some time dismissed him, vvitli many presents, to his companions. As soon as he was returned on boan' his canoe, the people in all the rest began to dance, but whether as a token of enmity or friendsihip w^e could not certainly determine, fur we hud seen them dance in a disposition both for peace and war. In a short time, however, they retired to their fort, and soon after I went on shore, with most of tl>e gentlemen, at the bottom of the cove, abreast of tlie ship. We found a fine stream of excellent water, and wood in tlie greatest plenty, for the land here was one forest, of vast extent. As we brought the seine with us, we hauled it once or twice, and with such success that we caught near three hundred-weight of fish of diflerent sorts, which was equally distributed among the sliip's company. At day-break, while we were busy in careening the sliip, three canoes came oflF to us, having on board above a hundred men, besides several of their women, which we were plean<>d to sec, as in general it is a sign of peace ; but they soon afterwards became very troublesome, and gave us reason to apprehend sonic mischief from them to the people that were in our boats alongside the ship. While we were in this situation, the long-boat was sent ashore with some water-casks, and some of the canoes attempting to follow her, we found it necessary to intimidate them by firing some small-shot : we were at such a distance that it was impossible to hurt them, yet our reproof had its effect, and they desisted from the pursuit. They had some fish in their canoes which they now offered to sell, and which, though it stunk, wo consented to -btiy : foi this purpose a man in a small boat was sent among them, and they traded for some time very fairly. At length, however, one of them watcliing his opportunity, snatched at some paper which onr market-man held in his hand, and missing it, immediately put liimself in a posture of defence, flourished his patoo-patoo, and making show as if he was about to strike ; some small-ahot were then fired at him from the sliip, a few of which struck him upon the knee : this put an end to our trade, but the Indians still continued near the ship, rowing round her many times, and conversing with Tupia, chiefly concerning the traditions they had among them with respect to tiic antiqui-* ties of their country. To this subject they were led by the inquiries whicli Tupia had been directed to make, whether they had ever seen such a vessel as ours, or had ever Iieard that any such had been upon their coast. Tlicse inquiries were all answered in the negative, so that tradition has preserved among them uo memorial of Tasman ; though, by an observation made this day, we find that we are only fifteen miles soutli of Murderer's Bay, our latitude being 41° 5' 32", and JSIurderer's Bay, according to his account, being 40° 50'. Tiie women in these canoes, and some of the men, had a head-dress wliicli we had not before seen. It consisted of a bunch of black feathers, made nj) in a round form, and tied upon the top of the head, which it entirely covered, and made it twice as high, to appearance, as it was in reality. After dinner I went in the ))innacc with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and some others, into another cove, about two miles distant from that in which the ship lay : in our way we saw something floating upon the water, which we took for a dead seal, but upon rowing up to it, found it to be the body of a woman, whicli, to all appearance, had been dead some days. We proceeded to our cove, where we went on shore, and found a small family of Indians, who appeared to be greatly terrified at our approach, and all ran away except one. A conversation between this person and Tupia soon brought back the rest, except an old man and a child, who still kept aloof, but stood peeping at us from the woods. Of these people, our curiosity naturally led us to inquire after the body of the woman, which we had seen floating upon tlie water : and they acquainted us, by Tupia, that she was a relation, who had died a natural death ; and that, according to their custom, they had tied a stone to the body, and thrown it into the sea, which stone, they supposed, had, by some accident, been disengaged. Tliis family, when we came on shore, was employed in dressing some provisions : the body of a dog was at this time buried in their oven, and many provision-baskets stood near it. Having cast our eyes carelessly into one of these, as we jiasscd it, wt saw two bones prcti/ in 0. lis. Jan. 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE UORLI). 1G5 cleanly picked, which did not sccin to be the bones of a dug, and which, npon a nearci* examination, wc discovered to be those of a liuman body. At tliis sight we were struck ivith horror, though it was only a confirmation of what we had heard many times since wc arrived npon this coast. As we could have no doubt but the bones were human, neither could we have any doubt but that the flesh which covered them had been eaten. They were found in a provision-basket ; the flesh that remained appeared manifestly to have been dressed by fire ; and in the gristles at the end were the marks of the teeth which had gnawed thou : to i)ut an end, however, to conjecture, founded npon circumstances and appearances, we directed Tnpia to ask what bones they were ; and the Indians, withont the least hesitation, answered, the hones of a man : they were then asked what was become of the flesh, and they replied thiit they had eaten it. But, said Tnpia, why did you not eat the body of the woman which we saw floating upon the water? Tiie woman, said they, died of disease ; besides, she was our relation, and we eat only the bodies of our enemies, who arc killed in battle. Uptm inquiry wlio the man w.ts whose bones we had found, they told us, that about five days before, a boat belonging to their enemies came into the bay, with many persons on board, and that this man was of the seven whom they had killed. Though stronger evidence of this horrid practice prevailing among the inhabitiuits of this coast will scarcely be required, we have still stronger to give. One of us asked if they had any human bones with the flesh remaining upon them, and upon their answering us that all had been eaten, we affected to disbelieve that the bones were human, and said that they were the bones of a dog ; upon which one of the Indians, with some eagerness, took hold of his own fore-arm, and thrusting it towards us, said, that the bone which Mr. Banks held in his hand had belonged to that part of the human body ; at the same time, to convince us that the flesh had been eaten, he took hold of liis own arm v/ith his teeth, and made show of eating : he also bit and gnawed the bone which Mr. Banks had taken, drawing it through his mouth, and showing, by signs, that it had afforded a delicious repast ; the bone was then returned to Mr. Banks, and he brought it away with him. Among the persons of this family, there was a woman who had her arms, legs, and thighs, frightfully cut in several places ; and we were told that she had inflicted the wounds upon herself, in token of her grief for the loss of her husband, who had been lately killed and eaten by their enemies, who had come from some place to the eastward, towards which the Indians pointed. The ship lay at the distance of somewhat less than a quarter of a mile from the siiore, and in the morning we were awakened by the singing of the birds : the number was incredible, and they seemed to strain their throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely superior to any that wc had ever heard of the same kind ; it seemed to be like small bells, most exquisitely tuned, and perhaps the distance, and the water between, might be no small advantage to the sound. Upon inquiry, wc were informed that the birds here always began to sing about two hours after midnight, and continuing their music till sunrise, were, like our nightingales, silent the rest of the day. In the forenoon, a small canoe came off from the Indian village to the ship, and among those that were in it, was the old man who had first come '~n board at our arrival in the bay. As soon as it came alongside, Tupia renewed the conversation that had passed the day before concerning their practice of eating human flesh, during which they repeated what they had told us already. But, said Tupia, where are the heads ? do you eat them too ? Of the heads, said the old man, we eat only the brains, and the next time I come I will bring some of them to convince you that what we have told you is truth. After some farther conversation between these peojtle and Tupia, they told him that they expected their ci.emies to come very shortly to revenge the death of the seven men whom they had killed and eaten. On the 18tli, the Indians were more quiet than usual ; no canoe came near the ship, nor did we see one of them moving on the shore, their fishing and other usual occupations being totally suspended. Wo thought they expected an attack on this day, and, therefore, attended more diligently to what passed on shore; but we saw nothing to gratify our curiosity. After breakfast, we went out in the pinnace, to take a view of the bay, which was of vast extent, and consisted of numberless small harbours and coves, in every direction : we confined our excursion, however, to the western side, and the country being an impene- '1 n (I ' i I m 1 .'1 ; If 1U6 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUxND THE WORLD. Jan. 1770. treble forest where we landed, we could sec nothing worthy of notice : wo killed, however, a good number of shags, which we saw sitting upon their nests in the trees, and which, whether roasted or stewed, wo considered as very good provision. As we were returning, we saw a single man in a canoe fishing ; we rowed up to him, and, to our great surprise, he took not the least notice of us, but even when we were alongside of him, continued to follow his occupation, without adverting to us any more than if we had been invisible. He did not, however, appear to be either sullen or stupid : we requested him to draw up his net, that we might examine it, and he readily complied : it was of a circular form, extended by two hoo]>s, and about seven or eight feet in diameter : the top was open, and sea-ears were fastened to the bottom as a bait : this he let down so as to lie upon the ground, and when he thought fish enough were assembled over it, he drew it up by a very gentle and even motion, so that the fish rose with it, scarcely sensible that they were lifted, till they came very near the surface of the water, and then were brought out in the net by a sudden jerk. By this simple method, he had caught abundance of fish, and, indeed, they arc so plenty in this bay, that the catching them requires ncitiier much labour nor art. This day, some of our people found in the skirts of the wood, near a hole or oven, three human hip-bones, which they brought on board ; a farther proof that these people eat human flesh : 3Ir. Monkhouse, our surgeon, also brought on board, from a place where he saw many deserted houses, the hair of a man's head, which he had found, among many other things, tied up to the branches of trees. In the morning of the 19th, we. set up the armourer's forge to repair the braces of the tiller, and other iron-work, all hands on board being still busy in careening, and other necessary operations about the vessel : this day, some Indians came on board from another part of the bay, where they said there was a town which we had not seen : tliey brought plenty of fish, which they sold for nails, having now acquired some notion of their use ; and in this trafiic no unfair practice was attempted. In the morning of the 20th, our old man kept his promise, and brought on board four of the hcaus of the seven people who had been so much the subject of our inquiries : the hair and flesli were entire, but we perceived that the brains hid been extracted ; the flesh was soft, but had by some metliod been preserved from putrefaction, for it had no disagreeable smell. Mr. Banks purchased one of them, but they sold it with great reluctance, and could not by any means be prevailed upon to part with a second ; probably they may be preserved as trophies, like the scalps in America, and the jaw-bones in the islands of the South Seas. Upon examining the head which had been bought by Mr. Banks, we perceived that it had received a blow upon the temples, which had fractured the skull. This day wo made tinother excursion in the pinnace, to sur^'ey the bay, but we found no flat large enough for a potato garden, nor could we discover the least appearance of cultivation : we met not a single Indian, but found an excellent harbour; and about eight o'clock in the evening returned on board the ship. On the 21 st, Sir. Banks and Dr. Solander went a-fishing with hook and line, and caught an immense quantity everywhere upon the rocks, in between four and five fathom water : the seine was hauled every night, and seldom failed to supply the whole ship's company with as much fish as they could cat. This day all the people had leave to go on shore at the watering-place, and divert themselves as they should think proper. Ill tiie morning of the 22nd, I set out again in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with a design to examine the head of the inlet ; but, after rowing about four or five leagues without so much as coming in sight of it, the wind being contrary, and the day half spent, we went on shore on the south-east side, to try what might be discovered from the hills. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander immediately employed them- selves in botanisiiig near the beach, and I, tiiking a seaman with me, ascended one of the hills : when I reached the summit, I found a view of the inlet intercepted by hills, which in that direction rose still higher, and which were rendered inaccessible by impenetrable woods ; I was, however, abundantly compensated for my labour, for I saw the sea on the eastern side of the country, and a passage leading from it to that on the west, a little to the eastward of the entrance of the inlet where the ship now lay. Tiie main land, ? 1 Mi Jan. 1770. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 167 which lay on tho south-CtOst of this inlet, appeared to be a narrow riJge of very high hills, and to form part of the south-west side of the strait ; the land on the opposite side appeared to trend away east as far as the eye could reach ; and to the south-ea&t there appeared to be an opening to the sea, which washed the eastern coast : on the east side of the inlet aUo I saw some islands which I had before taken to be part of the main lard. Having made this discovery, I descended the hill, and as soon as we had taken some refreshment, we set out on our return to the ship. In our way, we examined the harbours and coves which lie behind tho islands that I had discovered from the hill ; and in this route wc saw an old village, in which there were many houses that seemed to have bctn long deserted : we also saw another village which was inhabited, but the day was too far spent for us to visit it, and we therefore made the best of our way to the ship, which we reached between eight and nine o'clock at night. The 23rd I employed in carrying on a survey of the place ; and upon oue of the islands where I landed, I saw many houses which seemed to have been long deserted, and no appear- ance of any inhabitant. On the 24th, we went to visit our friends at the Ilippah or villatre on the point of the island near the ship's station, who had come oft' to us on our first arrival in the bay. They received us witli the utmost confidence and civility, showing us every part of their habitations, which were commodious and neat. The island or rock on which this town is situated is divided from the main by a breach or fissure, so narrow that a man might almost leap from one to the other : the sides of it are everywhere so steep as to render the artificial fortification of these people almost unnecessary ; there was, however, one slight palisade, and one small fighting-stage, towards that part of the rock where access was least difficult. The people here brought us out several human bones, the flesh of which they had eaten, and ofiTered them to sale ; for the curiosity of those among us, who had purchased them as memorials of the horrid practice which many, notwithstanding the reports of travellers, have professed not to believe, had rendered them a kind of irticlc of trade. In one part of this village we observed, not without some surpris'j, a cross tyactly like that of a crucifix ; it was adorned with feathers, and, upon our inquiring for what purpose it had been set up, we wero told that it was a monument for a man who was dead. We had before understood that their dead were not buried, but thrown into the sea ; but to our inquiry how the body of the man had been disposed of, to whose memory this cross had been erected, they refused to answer. When we left these people, we went to the other end of the island, and there taking water, crossed over to the main, where we saw sevoiiil .ouses, but no inhabitants, except a few in some straggling canoes, that seemed to be fishing. After viewing this place, we returned on board the ship to dinner. During our visit to the Indians this day, Tupia being always of our party, they had been observed to be continually talking of guns, and shooting people : for this subject of their conversation we could not at all account ; and it had so much engaged our attention, that we talked of it all the way back, and even after we got on board the ship. We had per- plexed ourselves with various conjectures, which were all given up in their turn ; but now we learnt, that on the 21st one of our officers, upon pretence of going out to fish, had rowed up to the Ilippah, and that two or three canoes coming off towards his boat, his fears suggested that an attack was intended, in consequence of which three muskets were fired, one with small shot and two with ball, at tlie Indians, who retired with the utmost pre- cipitation, having probably come out with friendly intentions; for such their bchavioui both before and afterwards expressed ; and having no reason to expect such treatment from people who had always behaved to them not only with humanity but kindness, and to whom they were not conscious of having given offence. On the 25th, I made another excursion along the coast, in the pinnace, towards the mouth of the inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and going on shore at a little cove, to shoot shags, we fell in with a large family of Indians, whose custom it is to disperse themselves among the different creeks and coves, where fish is to be procured in the greatest plenty, leaving a few only in the Hippah, to which the rest repair in times of danger. Some of these people came out a good way to meet us, and gave us an invitation i ■ I-.; I V ;,• •■'] f ( ir,!) COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Jan. 1770 to go with tliom to the rest of their party, which we readily accepted. We found a coni])any of about thirty, men, women, and children, who received us with all possible demonstrations of friendship : wo distributed among them a few ribands and beads, and, in return, received the kisses and embraces t)f both sexes, both young and old : they gave ua also some fish, and after a little time we returned, much pleased with our new acquaintance. In the morning i>f the 26th, I went again out in the lioat, with Mr. Bunks and Dr. Solander, and entered one of the bays, whicli lie on the east side of the inlet, in order to get another sight of the strait which passed between the eastern and western seas. For this purpose, having landed at a convenient place, we climbed a hill of a very considerable height, from which wo had a full view of it, with the land on the opposite shore, which we judged to be about four leagues distant ; but as it was hazy in the horizon, we could not see far to the south-east : I resolved, however, to search the passage with the ship, as soon as I should put to sea. Upon the top of this hill we found a parcel of loose stones, with which we erected a pyramid, and left in it some musket balls, small shot, beads, and other things, which we happened to have about us, that were likely to stand the test of time, and, not being of Indian workmanship, would convince any European who should come to the place and pull it down, that other natives of Europe had been there before him. When this was done, we descended the hill, and made a comfortable meal of the shags and fish which our guns and lines had procured us, and which were dressed by the boat's crew in a place that we had appointed : in this place we found another Indian family, who received us, as usual, with strong expressions of kindness and pleasure, showing us where to procure water, and doing ua such other good offices as were in their power. From this place we went to the town of which the Indians had told us, who visited us on the 19th ; this, like that which we had seen before, was built upon a small island or rock, so difficult of access, that wc gratified our curiosity at the risk of our necks. The Indians here also received us with open arms, carried us to every part of the place, and showed us all that it contained : this town, like the other, consisted of between eighty and a hundred houses, and had only one 15?^^ tft;^=*;/ ,\ i INTF.IIIUR or A HIPPill. [ 1 1 :! IJli fi^rhting-stage. We happened to have with us a few nails and ribands, and some pai)er, with which our guests were so gratified, that at our coming away they filled our boat with dried fish, of which we perceived they had laid up great quantities. Tlie 27th and 28th were spent in refitting the ship for tlie sea, fixing a transom for the liller, getting stonri on board to put into tiie bottom of the bread-room, to bring tlic ship more by the stern, in repairing the casks, and catching fish. On the 29th, we received a visit from our old man, whoso name wo found to bo ToI'aa Jan. 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. IGl) and tliroc other natives, with whom Tuj»ia had much conversation. Tlio old man told iis, that one of the men who had been fired npon by the officer who had visited their hippah, nnder pretence of fishing, was dead ; but to my great comfort I afterwards discovered that t?<'8 report was not true, and that if Topaa's discourses were taken literally, they would frequently L'ad us into mistakes. ]Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were several times on shore during the last two or three days, not without success, but greatly circumscribed in their walks, by climbers of a most luxuriant growth, which were so interwoven together as to fill up the space between the trees about which they grew, and render tlie woo(ls altogether impassable. This day, also, I went on shore again myself, upon the western point of tho inlet, and from a hill of considerable height I had a view of the coast to the N.W. The farthest land I could see in that quarter was an island which has been mentioned before, at the distance of about ten leagues, lying not far from the main : between this island and tho place where I stood, I discovered, close under the shore, several other islands, forming many bays, in which there appeared to be good anchorage for shipping, \fter I had set oflF the different points for my survey, I erected another pile of stones, in which I left a piece of silver coin, with some musket-balls and beads, and a piece of an old pendant Hying on the top. In my return to the ship, I made a visit to several of the natives, whom I saw along- shore, and purchased a small quantity of fish. On the 30th, early in the morning, I sent a boat to one of the islands for celery, and while the people were gathering it, about twenty of the natives, men, women, and children, landed near some empty huts : as soon as they were on shore, five or six of the women sat down upon the ground together, and began to cut their legs, arms, and faces, with shells, and sharp pieces of talc or jasper, in a terrible, manner. Our people understood that their husbands had lately been killed by their enemies : but, while they were performing this horrid ceremony, the men set about repairing the huts, with the utmost negligence and unconcern. The carpenter having prepared two posts to be left as memorials of our having visited this place, I ordered them to be inscribed with the ship's name, and the year and month : one of them I set up at the watering-place, hoisting the Union-flag upon the top of it ; and the other I carried over to the island that lies nearest to the sea, called by the natives MoTiTARA. I went first to the village or hippah, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse and Tupia, where I met with our old man, and told him and several others, by u'eans of Tupia, that wc were come to set up a mark upon the island, in order to show to any other ship which should happen to come thither, that we had been there before. To this they readily consented, and promised that they never would pull it down : I then gave something to every one present ; and to the old man I gave a silver three-pence, dated 1 736, and some spike-nails, with the king's broad arrow cut deep upon them ; things which I thought most likely to remain long among them : I then took the post to the highest part of the island, and, after fixing it firmly in the ground, I hoisted upon it the Union-flag, and honoured this inlet with the name of Quken Charlotte's Sound ; at the same time taking formal possession of th:'i and the adjacent country, in the name and for the use of his Majesty King George the Third. We then drank a bottle of wine to her Majesty's health, and gave the bottle to the old man who had attended us up the hill, and who was mightily delighted with his present. While the post waa setting up, we inquired of the old man concerning the passage into the eastern sea, the existence of which he confirmed ; and then asked him about the land to the S.W. of the strait, where we were then situated ; this land, he said, consisted of two whennuas or islands, which may bo circumnavigated in a few days, and which he called TovY PoENAMMOo : the literal translation of this word is, " the water of green talc f and probably if we had understood him better, we should have found that Tovy Poenammoo was the name of some particular place where they got the green talc or stone of which they make their ornaments and tools, and not a general name for the whole southern district : he said, there was also a third whennua, on the east side of the strait, the circumnavigation of which would take up many moons : this he called EAnEiNOMAUWE ; and to the land on the borders of the ytrait ho gave tho name of Tiera Witte. Having set up our post, and '^^1. 1^1 ■ > I ■> r 1 !l { ii' Si It i i f i ' 1 : }, W^ u 1 : .! 1! I w I -lli 170 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND lilE WORLD. Fkb. 1770. procured this intelligence, we returned on board the ship, and brought the old man with us, who was attended by his canoe, in which, after dinner, he returned home. On the 31st, having completed our wooding, and filled all our water-casks, I sent out two parties, one to cut and make brooms, and another to catch fish. In the evening we had a strong gale from the N.W., with such a heavy rain, that our little wild musicians on shore suspended their song, which till now we had constantly heard during the night, with a pleasure which it was impossible to lose without regret. On the 1st, the gale increased to a storm, with heavy gusts from the higli land, one of which broke the hawser that we had fastened to the shore, ivnd obliged us to let go another anchor. Towards midnight, the gale became more moderate, but the rain continued with such violence, that the brook wiiich liad supplied us with v/ater overflowed its banks, and carried away ten small casks which had been left there full of water, and, notwithstanding we searched the whole cove, wo could never recover one of them. On the 3rd, as I intended to sail the first opportunity, I went over to the hippah on the east side of the Sound, and purchased a considerable quantity of split and iialf-dried fish, for sea-stores. The people here confirmed all tliat the old man had told us concerning the strait and the country, and about noon I took leave of them ; some of them seemed to be sorry, and others glad, that we were going : the fish which I had bought they sold freely, but there were some who showed manifest signs of disapprobation. As we returned to the ship, some of us mcde an excursion along the shore to the northward, to traffic with the natives for a farther supply of fish ; in which, however, they had no great success. In the evening we got everything off from the shore, as I intended to sail in the morning, but the wind would not permit. On the 4th, wliile we were waiting for a wind, we amused ourselves by fishing, and gathering shells and seeds of various kinds ; and early in the morning of tlie 5th, we cast off the hawser, hove short on the bower, and carried the kedge-anchor out, in order to warp the ship out of the cove, which having done, abuut two o'clock in the aftenoon, we hove up the anchor and got under sail ; but the wind soon failing, we were oblige id to come to an anchor again a little above Motuara. When we were under sail, our old man, Topaa, came on board to take his leave of us ; and as we were still desirous of making farther inquiries whether any memory of Tasman had been preserved among these people, Tupia was directed tc ask him whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as ours had before visited the country. To this he replied in the negative ; but said that his ancestors had told him there had once come to this place a small vessel, from a distant countiy, called CTlimaroa, in which were four men, who, upon their coming on shore, were all killed : upon being asked where this distant land lay, he pointed to the northward. Of Ulimaroa we had heard something before, from the people about the Bay of Islands, who said that their ancestors had visited it ; and Tupia had also talked to us of Ulimaroa, concerning which he had some confused traditionary notions, not very different from those of our old man, so that we could draw no certain conclusion from the accounts of either. Soon after the ship came to an anchor the second time, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on shore, to see if any gleanings of natural knowledge remained ; and by accident fell in with the most agreeable Indian family they had seen, which afforded them a better oppor- tunity of remarking the personal subordination among these people than had before offered. The principal persons were a widow, and a pretty boy about ten years old : the widow was mourning for her husband with tears of blood, according to their custom, and the child, by the death of its fatl'.er, was become proprietor of the land where we had cut our wood. The mother and the son were sitting upon mats, and the rest of the family, to the number of sixteen or seventeen, of both sexes, sat round them in the open air, for they did not appear to have any house, or other shelter from the weather, the inclemencies of which custom has probably enabled them to endure without any lasting inconvenience. Their whole behaviour was affable, obliging, and unsuspicious : they presented each person with fish, and a brand of fire to dress it, and pressed them many times to stay till the morning, which they would certainly have done ^f they had not expected the ship to sail, greatly regretting that they had not become acquainted with them sooner, as they made no doubt but that more know-; Feb. 1?70. COOK'S FIRST VOk'AGE ROUND THE WORLD. in Icdgc of tho manners and disposition of tlio inhabitants of this country would have been obtained from them in a day than they had yet been able to ac«j[uiro during our whole stay upon the coast. On the 6th, about six o'clock in the morning, a light breeze sprung up at north, and wo again got under sail ; but the wind proving variable, we reached no farther than just without Alotuara ; in the afternoon, however, a more steady gale at N. by W. set us clear of tho Sound, which I shiiU now describe. Tlie entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound is situated in latitude 41° S., longitude 184° 4.1' W., and near the middle of the south-west side of the strait in which it lies. The land of the south-east head of the Sound, called by the natives KoAMAnoo, off which lie two small islands and some rocks, makes the narrowest p.art of the strait. From the north-west head a reef of rocks runs out about two miles, in the direction of N.E. by N. : part of which is above the water, and part below. By this account of the heads, the Sound will be sufficiently known ; at the entrance it is three leagues broad, .and lies in S.W. by S.S.W. and W.S.^Y'. at least ten leagues, and is a collection of some of the finest luirbours in tho world. The land forming tho harbour or cove in which we lay, is called by the natives ToTARUANUE : the harbour itself, which I called Ship Cove, is not inferior to any in the Sound, cither for convenience or safety : it lies on the west side of tho Sound, and is tho southernmost of three coves that are situated within tho island of Alotuara, which boars cast of it. Ship Cove miiy be entered, cither between Motuara sind a long island, cilled by tho natives IIamotk, or between Motuara and the western shore. In the last of these channels jirc two ledges of rocks, three fathom under water, which may easily be known by the sea- weed that grows upon them. In sailing either in or out of the Sound, with little wind, attention must be hiid to the tides, which flow about nine or ten o'clock at the full and chiingc of tiic moon, and rise and fall between seven .ind eight feet perpendicularly. The flood comes in through the strait from the S.E., and sets strongly over upon the north- west head, and the reef that lies off \t : the ebb sets with still greater rapidity to the S.E. over upon the rocks and islands that lie off tlie south-cast head. Tho v.ari.ition of the compass we found, from good observation, to be 13° .I' E. Tlie land about this sound, which is of such a height that we saw it at the distance of twenty leagues, consists wholly of high hills and deep valleys, well stored with a variety of excellent timber, fit for all purposes except masts, for which it is too hard and heavy. The sea abounds with a variety of fish, so that, without going out of the cove where we liiy, we caught every day, with the seine and hooks and lines, a quantity sufficient to serve the whole ship's company ; and along the shore we found plenty of shags, and a few other species of wild-fowl, which those who have long lived upon salt provisions will not think despicable food. Tho number of inhabitants scarcely exceeds four hundred, and they live dispersed along the shores, where their food, consisting of fish and fern roots, is most easily procured, for we saw no cultivated ground. Upon any appearance of danger, they retire to their hippahs or forts : in this situation we found them, and in tliis situation they continued for some time after our arrival. In comparison of the inhabitants of other parts of this country, they are poor, and their canoes arc without ornament. The little traffic we had with them was wholly for fish ; and, indeed, they had scarcely anything else to dispose of. They seemed, however, to have some knowledge of iron, which the inhabitants of some other parts had not ; for they willingly took nails for their fish, and sometimes seemed to prefer it to everything else that we could offer, which had not always been the case. They were at first very fond of paper ; but when they found that it was spoiled by being wet, they would not take it : neither did they set much value upon the cloth of Otaheite, but English broad-cloth and red kersey were in high estimation, which showed that they had sense enough to appreciate the com- modities which we offered by their use, which is more than could be said of some of their neighbours, who made a much better appearance. Their dress has been mentioned already, particularly their largo round head-dresses of feathers, which were far from being unbe- coming. As soon as we got out of the Sound, I stood over to the eastward, in order to get the strait '.', t it M ^ ' ^ 1 : i ' ill 172 COOK'S FIRST. VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, Fkd. 1770. well open before the tide of ebb caino on. At seven in the evening, the two small islands which lie oft' Capo Koainaroo, the sonth-east head of Queen Charlotte's Sonnd, bore east, distant abont four miles. At this time it was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting out, we were in a very short time carried by the rapidity of the stream close upon one of the islands, which was a rock rising almost perpendicularly out of tiie sea. "We j)erceivcd our danger increase every moment, and had but one expedient to prevent our being dashed to pieces, the success of which a few minutes would determine. We were now witliin little more tlian a cable's length of the rock, and had more than seventy-five fathom water ; but upon dropping an anchor, and veering about one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, the ship was happily brought up : tliis, however, would not have saved us, if the tide, which set S. by E., had not, upon meeting with the island, changed its direction to S.E., and carried us beyond the first point. In this situation, we were not above twt. cables' length fnmi the rocks : and here we remained in the strength of the tide, which set to the S.R., after the rate of at least five miles an hour, from a little after seven till near midnight, when the tide abated, and we began to heave. By three in the morning the anchor was at the bows, and bavin), a light breeze at N. W. we made sail for the eai^tern shore ; but the tide being .tgainst us, wl made but little way ; the wind, however, afterwards freshened, and came to N. and N.E., with which, and the tide of ebb, wo were in a short time hurried through the nar- rowest part of the strait, and then stood away for the southernmost land we had in sight, which boro from us S. by W. Over this land appeared a mountaiu of stupendous height, which was covered with snow. The narrowest part of the strait through which we had been driven with such rapidity, lies between Cape Tierawitte, on the coast of Eaheinomauwc, and Cape Koamaroo : the distance between them I judged to be between four or five leagues, anc' notwithstanding the tide, now it? strength is known, may be passed without much danger. It is, however, safest to keep on the north-cast shore, for on that side there appeared to be nothing to fear ; but on the other shore there are not only the islands and rocks which lie oft' Cape Koamaroo, but a reef of rocks stretching from these islands six or seven miles to the southward, at the distance of two or three miles from the shore, which I had discovered from the hill when I took my second view of the strait from the east to the western sea. The length of the strait we had passed I shall not pretend to assign, but some judgment may be formed of it from a view of the map. About nine leagues north from Cape Tierawitte, and under the same shore, is a high and remarkable island which may be distinctly seen from Queen Charlotte's Sound, from which it is distant about six or seven leagues. This island, which was noticed when we passed it on the 14th of January, I have called Entry Isle. On the east side of Cape Tierawitte, the land trends away S.E- by E., about eight leagues, where it ends in a point, and is the southernmost land on Eaheinomanwe. To this point I have given the name of Cape Palliser, in honour of my worthy friend Captain Palliscr. It lies in latitude 41*34' S., longitude 183° 58' W., and bore from us this day at noon S. ^9 E., distant about thirteen leagues, the ship being then in the latitude of 41° 27' S. ; Koamaroo at the same time bearing N. j E., distant seven or eight leagues. The southernmost land in sight bore S. 16 W., and the snowy mountain S.W. At this time we were about three leagues from the shore, and abreast of a deep bay or inlet, to which I gave the name of Cloudy Bay, and at the bottom of which there appeared low land covered with tall trees. At three o'clock in the afternoon we were abreast of the southernmost point of land that we had seen at noon, which I called Cape Campbell : it lies S. by W., distant between twelve and thirteen leagues from Cape Koamaroo, in latitude 41° 44' S., longitude 183° 45' W ; and with Cape Palliser forms the southern entrance of the st.'-ait, the distance between them being between thirteen and fourteen leagues W. by S., and E. by N. From this cape we steered along the shore S.W. by S. till eight o'clock in the evening, when the wind died away. About half an hour afterwards, however, a fresh breeze sprung up at S.W., and I put the ship right before it. My reason for this was a notion which some of the officers had just started, that Eaheinomauwe was not an island, and that the \\ Fed. 1770. mnll islands , boro cast, setting out, 1 one of the Tceived our ;; dashed to I'itliin littlo water ; but le, the ship 'hieh set S. 1 carried us ;h from tbo cr the rate en the tide bows, and iiig ligainst to N. and ;h the nar- id in sight, JUS height, li rapidity, laroo: the thstanding , liowever, ig to fear ; Coainarou, ird, at the ill when I the strait of it from high and om which passed it ierawitte, ind is the of Cape 1'34'S., > thirteen ime time glit bore ;ues from 3ay, and and that between ongitude I s^'-ait, S., and evening, e sprung >n which that tlie COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 173 land might stretch away to the S.E. from between Capo Turnagain and Capo Palliwer, there being a space of between twelve and fifteen leagues that we had not seen. I had, indeed, tlio strongest conviction that they were mistaken, not only from what I had seen the first time I discovered the strait, but from many other concurrent testimonies, that tho land in question was an island ; but being resolved to leave no possibility of doubt with rt'8])ect to an object of such importance, I took the opportunity of the wind's shifting, to stand eastward, and accordingly 8teereart of this coast had tiic least knowledge of iron or its use before we came among them, especially as, when it was first offered, they seemed to disregard it as of no value. We thought it probable, that we were now once more in the territories of Teratu ; but upon inquiring of these people, they said that he was not their king. After a short time, they went away, much gratified with the presents that we had made them ; and we pursued our course along the shore to the N.E. till eleven o^clock tho next morning. About this time, the weather happening to clear up, we saw Capo Turn- ivgain, bearing N. by E. | E., at tho distance of about seven leagues : I then called the officers upon deck, and asked them, whether they were not now satisfied that Eahcinomauwe was an island : they readily answered in the affirmative j and all doubts being now removed, we hauled our wind to the eastward. CHAPTER VII. — RANGE FROM CAPE TrRNAGAIN SOUTHWARD ALONG THE EASTERN COAST OP POENAM.MOO, ROUND CAPE SOUTH, AND BACK TO THE WESTERN ENTRANCE OF COOK's STRAIT, WHICH COMPLETI.D THE CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THIS COUNTRY; WITH A DESCRIP- TION OP THE COAST, AND OP ADIV. IRALTY DAY. THE DEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND, AND VARIOUS PARTICULARS. At four o'clock in the afternoon of Friday, the 9th of February, we tacked, and stood S.W. till eight o'clock the next morning, when, being not above three or four miles from the shore, we stood off two hours ; and then again S.W. till noon, when, at the distance of about two miles from the shore, we had twenty-six fathom water. We continued to make sail to the southward till sunset on the II th, when a fresh brecaj 174 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Fed. 1770. It I V li/ at N.E. had carried us back again tlip length of Capo Palliscr, of which, as the weather was clear, wo had a good view. It is of a height sufficient to bo seen in clear weather at the distance of twelve or fourteen leagues, and the land is of a broken and hilly surface. Between the foot of the high land and the sea there is a low flat border, off which there are some rocks that appear aliove water. Between this Capo and Cape Turnagain, the land near the shore is in many places low and flat, and has a green and |)loaaant appearance ; but farther from the sea it rises into hills. The land between Cape Pnliiser and Capo Tierawitte is high, and makes in table-points ; it also seemed to us to form two bays ; but wo were at too great a distance from this part of the coast to judge accurately from appearances. Tho wind having been variable, with calms, wo had advanced no farther by the 12tii at noon than latitude 41* 52', Cape Palliser then bearing north, distant about five leagues; and tho snowy moun- tain, S. 83 W. At noon, on the 13tli, we found ourselves in the latitude of 42° 2' S., Capo Palliser bear- ing N. 20 E., distant eight leagues. In tho afternoon, a fresh gale sprung up at N.E., and w^c steered S.W. by W. for the southernmost land in siglit, which at sunset bore from us S. 74 W. At this time the variation was lCt° 4' E. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 14th, having run one-and-twcnty leagues S. 58 W. since the preceding noon, it fell calm. We were then abreast of tho snowy mountain, which bore from us X.W., and in this direction lay behind a mountainous ridge of nearly the same height, which rises directly from the sea, and runs parallel with the shore, which lies N.E. I N. and. S.W. ^ S. The north-west end of the ridge rises inland, not far from Cape Campbell ; and both the mountain and tho ridgo are distinctly seen as well from Cape Koamaroo as Cape Palliser. From Koamaroo they aro distant two-and-twcnty leagues S.W. I S. ; and from Cape Palliser, thirty leagues W.S.W. ; and are of a height sufficient to be seen at a much greater distance. Some persons on board were of opinion that they were as high as Teneriffe ; but I did not think them as high as Mount Egmont, on the south-west coast of Eahcinomauwe, because the snow, which almost entirely covered I^Iount Egmont, lay only in patches upon thc^e. At noon, this day, we were in latitude 42° 34' S. The southernmost land in sight bore S.W. | W. ; and some low land that appeared like an island, and lay close under the foot of the ridge, bore N.W. by N. about five or six leagues. In the afternoon, when Mr. Banks was out in the boat a-sliooting, we saw with our glasses four double canoes, having on board fifty-seven men, put ofF from that shore, and make towards him ; we immediately made signals lor him to come on board, but the ship, with respect to him, being right in the wake of the sun, he did not see them. We were at a con- siderable distance from the shore, and he was at a considerable distance from the ship, which was between him and the shore ; so that, it being a dead calm, I began to be in some pain for him, fearing that he might not see the canoes time enough to reach the ship before they should get up with him. Soon after, however, we saw his boat in motion, and had the pleasure to take him on board before the Indians came up, who ])robably had not seen him, as their attention seemed to be wholly fixed upon the ship. They came within about i stone's cost, and then stopped, gazing at us with a look of vacant astonishment : Tupia exerted all his eloquence to prevail upon them to come nearer, but without any effijct. After surveying us for some time, they left us, and made towards the shore, but had not measured more than half the distance between that and the ship before it was dark. We imagined that these people had heard nothing of us, and could not but remark the diflbrent behaviour and dispositions of the inhabitants of the different parts of this coast upon their first approach- ing the vessel. These kept aloof with a mixture of timidity and wonder; others had immediately commenced hostilities, by pelting us with stones. The gentleman whom we had found alone, fishing in his boat, seemed to think us entirely unworthy of his notice ; and some, almost without invitation, had come on board with an air of perfect confi 'cncc and good-will. From the behaviour of our last visitors, I gave the land from which they had put off, and which, as I have before observed, had the appearance of an island, the name of LoOKERS-ON. At eight o'clock in the evening, a breeze sprung up at S.S.W., with which I stretched off south-east, because some on board thought they saw land in that quarter. In this course IF lowy moun- Fkd. 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 17ft wo continued till six o'clock tlio next morning, wlicn wo had run eleven Icajruci*, but saw no land, except tliat which we had left. Having stood to the S.E. with a light hreczo, which veered from the west to the north, till noon, our latitude by observation wan 42"' Ctli' .S., and the high land that wo were abreatit of the preceding noon bore N.N.W. ^ W. In the after- noon wo had a light breesso at N.F,., witli which wo steered west, edging in for tho land, which was distant about eight leagues. At seven in the evening, wo were about six leagues from tho shore, and the southernmost extremity of tiie land in sight bore W.S.W. At daybreak, on the KUli, wo discovered land bearing S. by W., and seemingly detached from tho coast we were upon. About eight, a breeze sprung up at N, by E., and we steered directly for it. At noon, we wore in latitude 43" ID' S. ; tho peak on tno snowy mountain boro N. 20 E., distant twenty-seven leagues ; the southern extremity of the land we could see boro west ; and the land which had been discovered in tho morning appeared like an island, extending from S.S.W. to S.W. by W. ^ W., distant about eight leagues. In the after- noon, we stood to tho southward of it, with a fresh breeze at north. At eight in tho evening, wo had run eleven leagues, and tho land then extended from S.W, by W. to N. by W. We were then distant about three or four leagues from the nearest shore, and in this situation had fifty fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom. Tho variation of tho compass by this morning''8 amplitude was 14° 39' E. At sunrise tho next morning, our opinion that tho land we liad been standing for was an island, was confirmed, by our seeing part of the land of Tovy Poenammoo open to the west- ward of it, extending as far as W. by S. At eight in the morning, the extremes of the island bore N. 7<> W. and N.N.E. { E. ; and an opening near the south point, which had the appearance of a bay or harbour, N. 20 W., distant between three and four leagues. In this situation we had thirty-eight fatiiom water, >vith a brown sandy bottom. This island, which I named after Air. Banks, lies about five leagues from tho coast of Tovy Poenammoo; the south point bears S. 21 W. from the higliest peak on the snowy mountain, and lies in latitude 43° 32' S., and in longitude 180° 30' W., by an observation of the sun and moon which was made tliis morning. It is of a circidar figure, and about twenty-four leagues in compass. It is sufficiently high to be seen at the distance of twelve or fifteen leagues, and the land has a broken irregular surface, with the appearance rather of barrenness than fertility ; yet it was inhabited, for we saw smoke in one place, and a few straggling natives in another. When this island was first discovered in the direction of S. by W., some persons on board were of opinion that they also saw land bearing S.S.E. and S.E. by E. I was myself upon the deck at the time, and told them that in my opinion it was no more than a cloud, and that as the sun rose it would dissipate and vanish. However, as I was determined to leave no subject for disputation which experiment could remove, I ordered tho ship to be wore, and steered E.S.E. by compass, in the direction which the land wa^ said to bear from us at that time. At noon we were in latitude 44° 7' S., the south point of Banks's Island bearing north, distant five leagues. By seven o'clock at night we had run eight-and-twenty miles, when, seeing no land, nor any signs of any, but that which we had left, we bore away S. by W., and continued upon that course till tho next diiy at noon, when we were in latitude 45° lO*, the south point of Banks's Island bearing N. 6° 30' W., distant twenty-eight leagues. The variation by the azimuth this morning was 15° 30' E, As no signs of land had yet appeared to the southward, and as I thought that we had stood far enough in that direction to weather all the land we had left, judging from the report of the natives in Queen Charlotte's Sound, I hauled to the westward. We had a moderate breeze at N.N.W, and N. till eight in the evening, when it became unsettled; and at ten, fixed at south. During the night, it blew with such violence that it brought us under our close-reefed topsails. At eight the next morning, having run twenty- eight leagues upon a W. by N. ^ N. course ; and judging ourselves to be to the westward of the land of Tovy Poenammoo, we bore away N.W. with a fresh gale at south. At ten, having run eleven miles upon tliis course, we saw land extending from the S.W. to the N.W., at the distance of about ten leagues, which we hauled up for. At noon, our latitude by observation was 44° 38', the south-east point of Banks's Island bore N. 58° 30' E., distant I my :ll M in I I < : ■! 1T« COOK'S FIU8T VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Fed. 1770. i ■ t thirty loaguos, and tlio main body of the land in siglit, W. by N. A bead-8ca prevented us from making much way to tlio southward. At seven in the eveninj:^, the extremes of tho land stretched from S.W. by S. to N. by W. ; and at six leagues from the shore, wu had thirty-two fathom water. At four o'chick tho next morning, wo stood in for the shore W. by S. ; and during a course of four IcngucM, our depth of water was from thirty-tw^o to thir- teen fathom. When it was thirteen fatliom, wo were hut three miles distant from tho shore, and therefore stood off; its direction is hero nearly N. and H. The surface, to the distance of about five miles from the sea, is low and flat, but it tlien rises into hills of a considerable height. It a|>pearcd to be totally barren, and we naw no signs of its being inhabited. Our latitude, at noon, was 44° 44' ; and the longitude whieli we made from Banks's Island to this place was 2' 22' W. During tho last twenty-four hour.o, though wo carried as much sail as the ship would liear, we were driven three leagues to the leeward. We continued to stand oflT and on all this day and the next, keeping at tho distance of between four and twelve leagues from tlio shore, and having water from thirty-five to fifty- three fathom. On the 22nd, at noon, we had no observation, but by the land judged ourselves to be about three leagues farther north than wo had been tho day before. At sunset, the weather, which had been hazy, cleai-ing up, wo saw a mountain which rose in a high peak, bearing N.W. by X. ; and at the same time we saw the land more distinctly than before, extending from N. to S.W. by S., which, at some dist.i'ice within tho coast, had a lofty and mountainous appearance. We soon found that the accounts which had been given us by the Indians in Queen Charlotte's Sound of tho land to the southward, were not true ; for they had told us that it might bo circumnavigated in four days. On the 23rd, having a hollow swell from the S.E., and expecting wind from the samo quarter, we kept plying between seven and fifteen leagues from the shore, having from seventy to forty-four fathom. At noon, our latitude by observation was 44° AOf S., and our longitude from Danks's Island 1° 31' W. From this time to six in the evening it was calm; but a light breeze then springing up at E.N.E., wc steered S.S.E. all night, edging off from the land, the hollow swell still continuing ; our depth of water was from sixty to seventy-five fathom. While wo were becalmed, Mr. Banks, being out in the boat, shot two Port Egmont hens, which were in every respect the same us those that are found in great numbers upon the island of Faro, and were the first of the kind we had seen upon this coast, though wc fell in with some a few days before we made land. At daybreak, the wind freshened, and before noon wo had a strong gale at N.N.E. At eight in the morning wc saw the land extending as far as S.W. by S., and steered directly for it. At noon, wc were in latitude 45" 22' S. ; anction to it lore forms elter from thward, in ly putting Wo kept at a small distance from the slioro all this morning, with the wind at S.W., and had a very distinct view of it : it is of a moderate height, and tlic surface in broken by iiiuny hills which ore green and woody; but we saw no appearand *.> of inhabitants. At noon. Cape Saunters bore N. HO W., distant about four leagues. Vo had variable winds and calms till five o'clock in the evening, when it fixed at W.8.W., and soon blew so hard that it put us past our topsails, and split the foresail all to |>iece8 : after getting another to the yard, wo continued to stand to tlio southward under two courses ; and at six the iiixt morning, the southcrnuiost land in sight boro W. by N., and Capo Saunders N. by W., distant eight leagues : at noon, it bore N. 20 W., fourteen leagues ; and our latitude by observation was 4(i'' 'AO', The gale continued, with heavy squalls and a large hollow wa, all the afternoon ; and at seven in the evening, we lay-to under our foresail, with the ship's head to the southward : at noon on the 27th, our latitude was 4(>'' CA', and our longitude from Cape Saunders 1° 24' E. At seven in the evening, we made sail under our courses ; and at eight the next morning set the topsails close reefed. At noon, our latitude was 47° 4.1', and our longitude east from Capo Saunders 2" 10'. At this time, we wore and stood to the northward: in the afternoon, we found the variation to bo 1(P 34' E. At eight in the evening, wo tacked and stood to the southward, with the wind at west. At noon this day, our latitude by account was 47"^ 52', and our longitude from Capo Saunders P ({' E. Wo stood to the southward till half an hour past three in the afternoon; and then, being in latitude 48^ S., and longitude liUP W., and seeing no appcaranco of land, we tacked and stood to the northward, having a largo swell from the S.W, by W. At noon the next day, our latitude was 40=' 42' S. ; and Cape Saunders bore N. 40" W., distant ei^^hty-six miles. The south-west swell continuing till the 3rd, confirmed our opinion, tliat there was no land in that quarter.' At four in the afternoon, we stood to the I westward with all the sail we could make. In the morning of the 4tli, we found the , variation to bo 16" lO* E. This day wo saw some whales and seals, as we had done several times after our having passed the strait ; but we saw no seal while wo were upon the coast of Eahienomauwe. We sounded both in the night and this morning, but had no ground with one hundred and fifty fathom. At noon, we saw Cape Saunders bearing N. ^ W. ; and our latitude by observation was 46^ 31' S. At half an hour past one o''cIock, wo saw land bearing W. by S., which we steered for, and before it was dark were within three or four miles of it : during the whole night we saw fires upon it, and at seven in the morning were within about three leagues of the shore, which appeared to be high, but level. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we saw the land extending from N.E. by N. to N.W. ^ N. ; and soon after we discovered some low land, which appeared like an island, beaiing S. ^ W. We continued our course to the W. by S., and in two hours we saw high land over the lowland, extending to the southward as far as S.W. by S.; but did not appear to bo joined to the land to the northward, so that there is either water, a deep bay, or low land between them. At noon on the 6th, wo were nearly in the same situation as at noon on the day before : in the afternoon we found the variation, by several azimuths and the amplitude, to be 15" 10' E. On the 7th at noon, we were in latitude 47° 6' S., and had made twelve miles easting during the last twenty-four hours. We stood to the westward the remainder of this day, and all the next till sunset, when the extremes of the land bore from N. by E. to W., distant about seven or eight leagues : in this situation our depth of water was fifty-five fathom, and the variation by amplitude 16° 29' E. The wind now veered from the N. to the W., and as we had fine weather and moonlight, we kept standing close upon the wind to the S.W. all night. At four in the morning, we had sixty fathom water ; and at day- light we discovered under our bow a ledge of rocks, extending from S. by W. to W. by S., upon which the sea broke very high : they were not more than three quarters of a mile distant, yet we had five-and-forty fathom water. As the wind was at N.W., we could not now weather them, and as I was unwilling to run to leeward, I tacked and made a trip to the eastward ; the wind, however, soon after coming to the northward, enabled us to get clear of all. Our soundings, while we were passing within the ledge, were from thirty-five to forty- seven fathom, with a rocky bottom. N Mi f ' '^ i- \W\ i:» COOK'S FIRST .VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, ir70. i; 111; . f ' t This ledge Hps S.E. six leagues from the southernmost part of the land, and S.E. by E. from some remarkable hills which stand near the shore : about three leagues to the north- ward of it, there is another ledge, which lies full three leagues from the shore, and on which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. As we passed these rocks to the north in the night, and discovered the others under our bow at break of day, it is manifest that our danger was imminent, and our escape critical in the highest degree : from the situation of these rocks, so well adapted to catch imwary strangers, 1 called them the Traps. Our latitude at noon was 47° 26' S. The land in sight, wliich had the appearance of an island, extended from N.E. by X. to N.W. by W., and seemed to be about five leagues distant from the main ; the easternmost ledge of rocks bore S.S.E., distant one league and a half, and the northernmost N.E. I E., distant about three leagues. This land is high and barren, with nothing upon it but a few straggling shrubs, for not a single tree was to be seen ; it was, however, remark- able for a number of white patches, which I took to be marble, as they reflected the sun's rays very strongly : other patches of tlie same kind we had observed in different parts of this country, particularly in Mercury Bay : wo continued to stand close upon a wind to the westward, and at sunset the southernmost point of land bore N. 38 E., distant four leagues, and the westernmost land in sight bore N. 2 E. The point whicli lies in latitude 47° 19' S. longitude 192° 12' AV. I named South Cape ; the westernmost land was a small island, lying off the point of the mnin. Supposing South Cape to be the southern extremity of this countrj', as indeed it proved to be, I hoped to get round it by the west, for a large hollow swell from the south-west, ever since our last hard gale, had convinced me th.at there was no land in that direction. In the night we had a hard gale at N.E. by N. and N., which brought us under our courses, but about eight in the morning it became moderate ; and at noon, veering to the west, we tacked and stood to the northward, having no land in sight. Our latitude, by observation, was 47° 33' S., our longitude, west from the South Cape, 59'. We stood away N.N.E. close upon a wind, without seeing any land, till two the next morning, when we discovered an island bearing N.W. by N., distant about five leagues : about two hours after- wards we saw land a-head, upon which we tacked and stood off till six, when we stood in to take a nearer view of it : at eleven we were within three leagues of it, but the wind seeming to incline upon the shore, I tacked and stood off to the southward. We had now sailed round the Land which we had discovered on the 5th, and whicli then did not appear to be joined to the main which lay north of it ; and being now come to the other side of what we supposed to be water, a bay, or low land, it had the same appearance, but when I came to lay it down upon paper I saw no reason to suppose it to be an island ; on the con- trary, I was clearly of opinion that it made part of the main. At noon, the western extremity of the main bore N. 59 W., and the island wl'ich we had seen in the morning S. 59 W. distant about five leagues. It lies in latitude 4(i° 31' S., longitude 192° 49' W., .and is nothing but a barren rock about a mile in circuit, remarkably high, and lies full five leagues distant from tlio main. Tiiis island I named after Dr. Solander, and called it Solander's Island. The shore of the main lies nearest E. by S. and W. by N. and forms a large open bay, in which there is no appearance of any harbour or shelter for shipping against S.W. and southerly winds ; the surface of the country is broken into craggy hills, of a great height, on the summits of wiiicli arc several patches of snow : it is not, however, wholly barren, for we could see wood not only in the valleys, but upon the highest ground, yet we saw no appearance o' its being inhabited. We continued to stand to the S.W. by S. till eleven o'clock the next morning, when the wind shifted to the S.W. by W., upon which we wore, and stood to the N.N.W., being then in latitude 47" 40' S, longitude 19.'i° 50' W., and having a hollow sea from the S.W. During the niglit, we steered N.N.W. till six in the morning, v^hen, seeing no land, we steered N. by E. till ei;rlit, when wo steered N.E. by E. 1 E. to make tiie land, wliich r.t ten we saw bearing E.N.E., but it being hazy, we could distinguish nothing upon it. At noon, our latitude, by observation, Avas 40" S. About two it cleared up, and the land appeared to be high, rude, and mountainous : about half an hour after three I hauled in for ARCH, 1<'70. S.E. by E. the north- 1 on which the night, langcr was hesc rocks, de at noon ;ndcd from the main ; rthernmost ing upon it ;r, remark- d the sun's !nt parts of vind to tlic ur leagues, 47° J 9' S. iland, lying I it proved south-west, irection. under our ring to the ■ititndc, by stood away f, when we lours after- re stood in the wind e had now not appear her side of )ut when I >n the con- le western e morning 1° 49' W., es full five called it and forms ■ shipping iggy hills, however, st ground, when the W., being sea from ) land, we whicli Tit n it. At the land lied in fur Mahch, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 179 a bay, in which there appeared to be good anchoran;e ; but in about an hour, finding the distance too great to run before it would be dark, and the wind blowing too hard to make the attempt safe in the night, I bore away along the shore. This bay, which I called Ditsky Bay, lies in latitude 45* 47' S. : it is between three and four miles broad at the entrance, and seems to be full as deep as it is broad : it contains several islands, behind which there must be shelter from all winds, though possibly there may not be sufficient depth of water. The north point of this bay, when it bears S.E. by S., is rendered very remarkable by five high peaked rocks which lie off it, and have the ajipearance of the four fingers and thumb of a man's hand, for which reason I called it Point Five Fingers : the land of this point is farther remarkable, for being the only level land within a considerable distance. It extends near two leagues to the northward, is lofty, and covered with wood : the land behind it is very different, consisting wholly of mountains, totally barren and rocky ; and this difference gives the Cape the appearar.oe of an island. At sunset, the southernmost land in sight bore due south, distant about five or six len aes ; and as this is the westernmost point cf land upon the whole coast, I called it West (.'ai'e. It lies about three leagues to the southward of Dusky Bay, in the latitude of 45° 5 1' S., and in the longitude of 193° 17' W". The land of this Cape is of a moderate height next the sea, and has nothing remarkable about it, except a very white cliff, two or three leagues to the southward of it : to the southward of it iilso the land trends away to the S.E., and to the northward it trends N.N.E. Having brought to for the night, wo made sail along the sliore at four in the morning, in the direction of N.E. ^ N. with a moderate breeze at S.S.E. At noon our latitude, by observation, was 45° 13' S. At this time, being about a league and a half from the shore, we sounded, but had no ground with seventy fathom : we had just passed a small narrow opening in land, where there seemed to be a very safe and convenient harbour, formed by an island, which lay in the middle of the opening at east. The opening lies in latitude 45° 16' S., and on the land behind it are mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow, that appeared to have been recently fallen ; and indeed for two days past we had found the weather very cold. On each side the entrance of the opening, the land rises almost perpendicularly from t'-d sea to a stupendous height, and this indeed was the reason why I did not carry the shiji into it, for no wind could blow there but right in, or right out, in the direction of either east or west, and I thought it by no means advisable to put into a place whence I could not have got out but with a wind which experience had taught me did not blow more *han one day in a month. In this, however, I acted contrary to the opinion of some persoi.d on board, who in very strong terms expressed their desire to harbour for present convenience, without any regard to future disadvantages. In the evening, being about two lepgues from the shore, we sounded, and had no ground with 108 fathom: tlie variation of the needle, by azimuth, was 14° E. and by amplitude 15° 2'. AVe made the best of our way along the shore with what wind 've had, keeping at the distance of between two and three leagues. At noon, wo were iu latitude 44° 47', having run only twelve leagues upon a N.E. | N. course, during the last four-and-twenty liours. We continued to steer along the shore, in the direction of N.E. ^ E. till six oV-lock in the evening, when we brought to for the night. At four in the morning, we stood in for the land, and when the day broke we saw what appeared to be an inlet ; but upon a nearer approach, proved to be only a deep valley between two high lands : we proceeded therefore in the same course, keeping the shore at the distance of between four and five miles. At noon on the 16th, the northernmost point of land in sight bore N. 60 E. at the distance of ten miles ; and our latitude, by observation, w.is 44° 5', our longitude from Cape West 2" 8' E. About two, we passed the point which at noon had been distant ten miles, and found it to consist of high red cliffs, down which there fell a cascade of water in four small streams, and I therefore gave it the name of Cascade Point. From this point, the land trends first N. 76 E. and afterwards more to the northward. At the distance of eight leagues from Cascade Point, in the direction of E.N.E., and at a little distance from the shore, lies a small low island, which bore from us S. by E., at the distance of about a league and a half. N 2 '■ a i1 1^ fM' i I, ,' '! !). ' 180 COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, Makch, 1770. I' 'I ii U ;n M )' ki : i! ' At seven in the evening, wo brought to, in tliirty-three fathom, with a fine sandy bottom ; at ten we had fifty fathom, and at twelve wore in sixty-five fathom, having driven several miles N.X.W, after our having brought to. At two in the morning, we had no ground with 140 fathom, by which it appears tliat the soundings extend but a little way from the shore. About this time it fell calm ; at eight, a breeze sprung up at S.W. with which wo steered along the shore, in the direction of N.E. by E. j E. at the distance of about three leagues. At six in the evening, being about one league from the shore, we had seventeen fathom ; and at eight, being about three leagues from the shore, we had forty-four ; we now shortened sail, and brought to, having run ten leagues N.E. by E. since noon. It was calm most part of the night ; but at ten in the morning a light breeze sprung up at S.W. by W., when wo made sail again along the shore N.E. by N., having a large swell from the W.S.W. which had risen in the night ; at noon, our latitude, by observation, was 43' 4' S., and our longitude from Cape West 4° 12' E. Wo observed, that the valleys as well as the mountains wore this morning covered with snow, part of which we supposed to have fallen during the night, when we had rain. At six in the evening we shortened sail, and at ten brought to, at the distance of about five leagues from the shore, where we had 1 15 fathom. At midnight, there being little wind, we made sail, and at eight in the morning we stood to the N.E. close upon a wind till noon, when we tacked, being about three leagues from the land, and, by observation, in latitude 42° 8', and longitude from Cape West 5° 5' E. We continued to stand westward till two in the morning, when we made a trip to the ea<:tward, and afterwards stood westward till noon, when, by our reckoning, we were in the latitude 42° 23', and longitude from Cape West 3° 55' E. Wo now tacked and stood east- ward, with a fresh gale at N. by W. till six in the evening, when the wind shifted to the S. and S.S.W,, with which we steered N.E. by N. till six in the morning, when we hauled in E. by N. to make the land, which we saw soon afterwards ; at noon, our latitude, by account, was 41° 37', and our longitude from Cape West 5° 42' E. We were now within three or four leagues of the land, but it being foggy, we could see nothing upon it distinctly, and as we h: d much wind, and a vast swell rolling in upon the shore, from the W.S.W. , I did not think it safe to go nearer. In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze from the S.S.W., with which we steered north along the shore till eight, when, being within between two and three leagues, wo sounded, and had but thirty- four fathom ; upon which we hauled off N. W. by N. till eleven at night, and then brought to, having sixty-four fathom. At four in the morning, we made sail to the N.E. with a light breeze at S.S.W. which at eight veered to the westward, and soon after died away ; at this time we were within three or four miles of the land, and had fifty- four fathom, with a large swell from the W.S.W., rolling obliquely upon the shore, which made me fear that I sliould be obliged to anchor ; but by the help of a light air now and then from the S.W. I was able to keep tlie ship from driving. At noon, the northernmost land in sight bore N.E. by E. ^ E. distant about ten leagues; our latitude, by account, was 40° 55' S., longitude from Cape West 6° 35' E. From this time we had light airs from the southward, with intervals of calm, till noon on the 23d, when our latitude, by observation, was 40° 36' 30" S., ami our longitude from Capo West 6° 52' E. The eastenimost point of land in sight bore E. 10 N., at the distance of seven leagues, and a bluff head or point, of which we had been abreast at noon the day before, and off which lay some rocks above water, bore S. 10 W. at the distance of six leagues. This po- I called Kock's Point. Our lati- tude was now 40° 55' S., and having nearly run down tlie whole of the north-west coast of Tovy Poenammoo, I shall give some account of the face of the country. I have already observed, that on the 11th, when we were off the southern part, the land then seen was craggy and mountainous, and there is great reason to believe that the same ridge of mountains extends nearly the whole length of the island. Between the westernmost land which we saw that day, and the easternmost which we saw on the 13th, there is a space of about six or eight leagues, of which wo did not dt-u ♦,he coast, though wo plainly discovered the mountains inland. The sea-coast near Capo West is low, rising with an easy and gradual ascent to the foot of the mountains, and being in most parts covered with wood. From Point Five Fingers, down to latitude 44° 20 , there ia a narrow ridge of hills that rises t March, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. lUl directly from the sea, and is covered with wood : close behind these hills arc the mountains, extending in another ridge of a stupendous height, and consisting of rocks that arc totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow, wliicli is to be seen in largo patches upon many parts of them ; and has probably lain there ever since the creation of the world : a prospect more rude, craggy, and desolate than this country affords from the sea, cannot possibly be conceived, for, as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing appears but tlic summits of rocks, which stand so near togetlier, that instead of valleys there are only fissures between them. From the latitude of 44° 20', to the latitude of 42^ 8', these mountains lie farther inland, and the sea-coast consists of woody hills and vallej-s, ?f various height and extent, and has much appearance of fertility : many of the valleys form plains of consider- able extent, wholly covered with wood; but it is very probable that the ground, in many places, is swampy, and interspersed with pools of water. From latitude 42° l\', to 41° 30', the land is not distinguished by anything remarkable : it rises into hills directly from the sea, and is covered with wood ; but the weather being foggy while we were upon this part of the coast, we could see very little inland, except now and then the summits of the mountains, towering above the cloudy mists that obscured them below, which confirmed my opinion that a chain of mountains extended from one end of the island to the other. In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze at S.W., which, before it was quite dark, brought us abreast of the eastern point which we had seen at noon ; but not knowing what course the land took on the other side of it, we brought to in thirty-four fathom, at tho distance of about one league from the shore. At eight in the evening, there being little wind, we filled and stood on till midnight, and then we brought to till four in the morning, when we again made sail, and at break of day we saw low land extending from the point to the S.S.E. as far as the eye could reach, the eastern extremity of which appeared in round hillocks : by this time the gale had veered to the eastward, which obliged us to ply to wind- ward. At noon next day, the eastern point bore S.W. by S., distant sixteen miles, and our latitude was 40° 19' : the wind continuing easterly, we were nearly in the same situation at noon on the day following. About three oV-lock the wind came to the westward, and we steered E.S.E. with all the sail we could set till it was dark, and then shortened sail till tho morning : as we had thick hazy weather all night, we kept sounding continually, and had from thirty-seven to forty-two fathom. When the day broke we saw land bearing S.E. by E., and an island lying near it, bearing E.S.E., distant about five leagues : this island I knew to be the same that I had seen from the entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound, from which it bears N. W. by N., distant nine leagues. At noon, it bore south, distant four or five miles, and the north-west head of the sound S.E. by S., distant ten leagues and a half. Our lati- tude, by observiition, was 40° 33' S. As we had now circumnavigated the whole country, it became necessary to think of quitting it ; but as I had thirty tons of empty water casks on board, this could not be doi:o till I had filled them : I therefore hauled round the island, and entered a bay, which lies between that and Queen Ciiarlotte's Sound, leaving three more islands, which lay close under the western shore, between three or four miles within the entrance, on our starboard hand : while we were running in, we kept the lead continually going, and had from forty to twelve fathom. At six o'clock in the evening, we anchored in eleven fathom with a muddy bottom, under the west shore, in the second cove, that lies within three islands ; and as soon as it was light the next morning, I took a boat, and went on shore to look for a watering place, and a proper berth for the ship, both which I found, much to my satisfac- tion. As soon as the ship was moored, I sent an officer on shore to superintend the watering, and the carpenter, with his crew, to cut wood, while the long-boat was employed in landing the empty casks. In this employment we were busy till the 30th, when the wind seeming to settle at S.E., and our water being nearly completed, wc warped the ship out of the cove, that we might have room to get under sail ; and at noon I went away in the pinnace to examine as nmch of the bay as my time would admit. After rowing about two leagues up it, I wert ashore upon a point of land on the western side, and having climbed a hill, I saw the western arm of this bay run in S.W. by W. about five leagues farther, yet I cuuld uot discover the end n' ■ , v. 'f'lj • < ' '1.: !!.r ■I! ■'i : I !i. 182 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Mahcii, 1770. . Vi tl I h' 'Mm in !, the fruit of which furnishes tliem with vessels for various uses. We also found here the Chinese paper mulberry-tree, the same as that of which tlie inhabitants of the South Sea Islands make their cloth ; but it is so scarce, that though the New Zealanders also make cloth of it, they have not enough for any other purpose than to wear as an ornament in the holes which they make in their ears, as I have observed before. But among all the trees, shrubs, and plants of this country, there is not one that pro- duces fruit, except a berry, which has neither sweetness nor flavour, and which none but the boys took pains to gather, should be honoured with that appellation. There is, however, a plant that serves the inhabitants instead of hemp and flax, which excels all that are put to the same purposes in other countries. Of this plant there are two sorts ; the leaves of bot'Ji resemble those of flags, but the flowers are smaller, and their clusters more numerous ; in one kind they are yellow, and in the other a deep red. Of the leaves of these plants, with very little preparation, they make all their common apparel ; and of these they make also their strings, lines, and cordage for every purpose, which are so much stronger than any- thing we can make with hemp, that they will not bear a comparison. From the same plant, by another preparation, tliey draw long slender fibres which shine like silk, and are as white as snow : of these, wliich are also surprisingly strong, the finer clothes are made ; and of the leaves, without any other preparation than splitting them into proper breadths, and tying the strips together, they make their fishing nets ; some of which, as I have before remarked, are of an enormous size. A plant wliich, with such advantage, might be applied to so many useful and important purposes, would certainly be a great acquisition to Eng- land, where it would probably thrive with very little trouble, as it seems to be hardy, and to affect no particular soil ; being foimd equally in hill and valley; in the driest mould, and the deepest bogs : the bog, however, it seems rather to prefer, as near such places we observed it to be larger than elsewhere *. I have already observed, that we found great plenty of iron sand in Mercury Bay, and therefore that iron ore is undoubtedly to be found at no great distance. As to other metals, we had scarcely knowledge enough of the country for conjecture. If the settling of this country should ever be thought an object worthy the attention of Great Britain, the best place for establishing a colony would be cither on the banks of the Thames, or in the country bordering upon the Bay of Islands. In either place there would be the advantage of an excellent harbour ; and, by means of the river, settlements might be extended, and a communication established with tlie inland parts of tlie country : vessels might be built of the fine timber which abounds in these parts, at very little trouble and expense, fit for such a navigation as would answer the purpose. I cannot indeed exactly assign the depth of water wliich a vessel intended to navigate this river, even as far up as I went with the boat, ohould draw, because this depends upon the depth of water that is upon the bar, or flats, which lie before the narrow part of the river, for I had no oppor- tunity to make myself acquainted with them ; but I am of opinion, that a vessel which should draw not more than twelve feet would perfectly answer the purpose. When we first arrived upon the coast of this country, we imagined it to be much better peopled than we afterwards found it, concluding that the inland parts were populous from the smoke that • The Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax, is a most invaluable produrtion, and to the natives almost in- dispensable. Large qnantitics of it have been exported to Sydney and elsewhere, and cordage mannfuctnred from it is far superior in strength to any other vegetable fibre. Some disadvantages attending it have hitherto prevented its use from extending so far as would otherwise he the case. No method of cleaning it has hitherto been found to answer the purpose as well as the slow method of scraping it by muscle-shell!', as used by the natives, and all that is brought to market is prepared in this way. When manufactured into ropes, it is fotmd to take tar very indifferently, that substance coming off on the hand when the ropes arc hauled over, a pal|)ablc defect in running rigging. All attempts to weave it into cloth have also proved ineffectual. Until some means shall be discovered for remedying this inconvenience, the u?c of New Zcilund flax will he very limited. When first brought into notice, there was a cniifidenible demand, and in 1831, one thou- sand and sixty- two tons were exported from Sydney to England ; but from that time the causiimption has de- cicascd every year. — En. 1770. Maucii, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 187 wo saw at a considerable distance from tlie shore ; and, perhaps, that may really be the case with respect to the country beliind Poverty Bay, and the Bay of Tlenty, where the inha- bitants appeared to be more numerous than in other places. But we had reason to believe that, in general, no part of the country but the sea-coast is inhabited ; and even there wo found the people but thinly scattered, all the western coast from Cape ]Maria Van Diemcn to Mount Egmont being totally desolate ; so that upon the whole the number of inhabitants bears no pr(i)ortion to the extent of country. CHAPTER IX. A DESCRIPTION OF THE INHABITANTS, THEIR nADIT\TIONS, APPAREL, ORNA- MENTS, FOOD, COOKERY, AND MANNER OF LIFE. The stature of the men in general is equal to the largest of those in Europe : they are stout, well-limbed, and fleshy ; but not fat, like the lazy and luxurious inhabitants of the islands in the South Seas : they are also exceedingly vigorous and active ; and have an adroitness and manual dexterity in an uncommon degree, which are discovered in whatever they do. I have seen the strokes of fifteen paddles on a side in one of their canoes niado with incredible quickness, and yet with such minute exactness of time, that all the rowers seemed to be actuated by one common soul. Their colour in general is brown ; but in few deeper than that of a Spaniard who has been exposed to the sun ; in many not so deep. The women have not a feminine delicacy in their appearance, but their voice is remarkably soft ; and by that, the dress of both sexes being the same, they are principally distinguished : they have, however, like the women of other countries, more airy cheerfulness, and a greater flow of animal spirits, than the other sex. Their hair, both of the head and beard, is black, and their teeth extremely regular, vaa as much modesty, reserve, and decorum, with respect to actions, which yet in their opinion were not criminal, as are to bo found among the politest people in Euro])e. The women were not impregnable, but the terms and manner of compliance were as decent as those in marriage among ua, and according to their notions the agreement was as innocent. AVhen any of our people made an overture to one of their young women, he was given to understand that the consent of her frienda was necessary, ond by the influence of a proper present it was generally obtained ; but when these preliminaries were settled, it was also necessary to treat the wife for a night with the same delicacy that is here required by the wife fur life ; and the lover who presumed to take any liberties by which this was violated, was sure to bo disappointed. One of our gentlemen, having made his addresses to a family of the better sort, received an answer which, translated into our language, according to the mode and spirit of it, as well as the letter, would have been exactly in these terms : " Any of these young ladies will think themselves honoured by your addresses, but you must first make mo a suitable ])resent, and you must then come and sleep with us on shore ; for daylight must by no means bo a wit- ness of what passes between you." I have already observed, that in personal cleanliness they arc not quite equal to our friends at Otaheite, because, not having the advantage of so warm a climate, they do not so often go into tho water ; but the most disgustful thing about them is tho oil, with which, like tho islanders, they anoint their hair. It is, certainly, the fat either of fish or of birds, melted down ; and though the better sort have it fresh, their inferiors use that which is rancid, and consequently are almost as disagreeable to the smell as a Hottentot : neither are their heads free from vermin, though wo observed that they were furnished with combs, both of bono and wood. These combs are sometimes worn Btuck upright in the hair as an ornament ; a fashion which at present prevails among the ladies of England. The men generally wear their beards short, and their hair tied upon the crown of the head in a bunch, in which they stick the feathers of various birds in different manners, according to their fancies ; sometimes one is placed on each side of the temples, pointing forwards, which wc thought made a very disagreeable appearance. The women wear their hair sometimes cropped short, and some- times flowing over their shoulders. The bodies of both sexes are marked with the black stains called Amoco, by the same method that is used at Otaheite, and called Tattowing ; but the men are more marked, and the women less. The women in general stain no part of their bodies but the lips, though sometimes they are marked with small black patches on other parts : the men, on the con- trary, seem to add something every year to the ornatuents of the last, so that some of them, who appeared to be of an advanced age, were almost covered from head to foot. Besides the Amoco, they have marks impressed by a method unknown to us, of a very extraordinary kind : they are furrows of about a line deep, and a line broad, such as appear upon the bark of a tree which has been cut through after a year's growth ; the edges of these furrows aro afterwards indented by the same method, and being perfectly black, they make a most frightful appearance. The faces of the old men are almost covered with these marks ; those who are very young, black only their lips, like the women ; when they are somewhat older, they have generally a black patch upon one cheek and over one eye, and so proceed gra- dually, that they may grow old and honourable together. But though we could not but be disgusted with the horrid deformity which these stains and furrows produced in the " human face divine," we could not but admire the dexterity and art with which they were impressed. The marks upon the face in general are spirals, which are drawn with great nicety, and even elegance, those on one side exactly corresponding with those on the other. The marks on the body somewhat resemble the foliage in old chased ornaments, and the convolutions of filigree- work ; but in these they have such a luxuriance of fancy, that of a hundred, which at first sight appeared to be exactly the same, no two were, upon a close examination, found to be alike. We observed that the quantity and form of these marks were different in dif- ferent parts of the coast, and that as the principal seat of them at Otaheite was the breech, in New Zealand it was sometimes the only part which was free, and in general was less distinguished than any other. The skins of these people, however, are not only dyed, but if! : .«' 1 ' ki>a loo COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE IIOITNU THE WORLD. March, 1770. ill iff I. :/ I painted ; for, as I have before observed, they snioar their bodies with rcd-ochro, some rub- bing it on dry, and nomc applying it in large patehes, mixed with oil, which is always wet, and which the least touch will rub oiT; so that the transgressions of such of our people as were guilty of ravishing a kiss from these blooming beauties were most legibly written upon their faces. The dress of a New Zealander is certainly, to a stranger at first sight, the most uncouth that can be imagined. It is made of the leaves of the flag, which has been described among the vegetable productions of this country : these leaves are split into three or four slips, and the slips, when they arc dry, interwoven with each other into a kind of stuff between netting .ind cloth, with all the ends, which arc eight or nine inches loiig, hanging out on the upper side, like the shag or thrumb mats which wo sometimes see lying in a p.issage. Of this cloth, if cloth it may be called, two pieces serve for a complete dress ; one of them is tied over their shoulders with a string, and reaches as low as the knees ; to the end of this string is fastened a bodkin of bone, which is easily passed through any two parts of this upper garment, so as to tack them together ; the other piece is wrapjied round the waist, and reaches nearly to the ground : the lower garment, howe\er, is worn by the men only upon particular occasions ; but they wear a belt, to which a string is fastened, for a very singular use. The inhabitants of the South Sea Islands slit up the prepuce so as to prevent it from covering the glans of the penis ; but these people, on the contrary, bring the prepuce over the glans, and to prevent it from being drawn back by the contraction of the part, they liu the string which hangs from their girdle round the end of it. The glans, indeed, seemed to bo the only part of their body which they were solicitous to conceal, for they frequently threw off all their dress but the belt and string, with the most careless indifference, but showed manifest signs of confusion, when, to gratify our curiosity, they were requested to untie the string, and never consented but w^ith the utmost reluctance and shame. When they have only their upper garment on, and sit upon their hams, they bear some resemblance to a thatched house ; but this covering, though it is ugly, is well adapted to the use of those who frequently sleep in the open air, without any other shelter from the rain. But besides this coarse shag or thatch, they have two sorts of cloth, w^hich have an even surfiice, and are very ingeniously made, in the same manner with that manufactured by the inhabitants of South America, some of which we procured at Rio de Janeiro. One sort is as coarse as our coarsest canvass, and somewhat resembles it in the manner of laying the threads, but it is ten times as strong ; the other is formed by many threads lying very close one way, and a few crossing them the other, so as to bind them together ; but these are about half an inch asunder ; somewhat like the round pieces of cane matting which are sometimes placed under the dishes upon a table. This is frequently striped, and always had a pretty appearance, for it is composed of the fibres of the same plant, which are prepared so as to shine like silk. It is made in a kind of frame of the size of the cloth, generally about five feet long, and four broad, across which the long threads, which lie close together, or warp, are strained, and the cross threads, or woof, are worlced in by hand, which must be a very tedious operation. To both these kinds >f cloth they work borders of different colours, in stitches, somewhat like carpeting, or rather like those used in the samplers which girls work at school. These borders are of various patterns, and wrought with a neatness, and even an elegance, which, considering they have no needle, is surprising : but the great pride of their dress consists in the fur of their dogs, which they use with such economy, that they cut it into stripes, and sew them upon their cloth at a distance from each other, which is a strong proof that dogs are not plenty among them ; these stripes are also of different coloure, and disposed so as to produce a pleasing effect. We saw some dresses that were adorned with feathers instead of fur, but these were not common ; and we saw one that was entirely covered with the red feathers of the parrot. The dress of the man who was killed when we first went ashore in Poverty Bay has been described already ; but we saw the same dress only once more during our stay upon the coast, and that was in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The women, contrary to the custom of the sex in general, seemed to affect dress rather less than the men : their hair, which, as I have observed before, is generally crept short, is March, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOVAiJE HOUND THE U'OIILP. Wl ncvor tietl upon tlio top of the head wlion it is Hiifforcd to bo long, nor is it ever adorned with feathers. Tlioir ^'nrinents were niiide (jf the same nmteriiiltt, and in tliu same form, an those of tlio other sex, but the lower one was always bound fast round them, except when they went into the water to catcli lobsters, and then they took great care not to be seen by the men. Some of us happening ont) day to land upon a small island in T(dnga Bay, wo surprised several of them at this employment ; and the chaste Diana, with her nymphs, could not have discovered more confusicm and distress at the sight of Activcm than these women cxpressicd upon our approach. Some of them hid themselves among the rocks, and the rest crouched down in tho sea till they had made themselves a girdle and apron of such weeds as they could find ; and when they came out, even with this veil, we could j)ereeivo that their modesty suftered much pain by our presence. Tho girdle and apron which they wear in common have been mentioned before. Hotli sexes bore their cars, and, by stretching them, tho holes become large enough to admit a finger at least. In these holes they wear ornaments of various kinds, cloth, featliers, bones of largo birds, and even sometimes a stick of wood ; and to these receptacles of finery they generally applied the nails which we gave them, and everything which it was possible they could contain. Tho women sometimes thrust through theni the down of the albatross, which is as white as snow, and which, spreading before and behind the hole in a bunch almost as big as tho fist, makes a very singular, and, however strange it may bo thought, not a disagreeable appearance. Besides the ornaments that are thrust through the holes of the ears, many others are suspended to them by strings ; such as chisels or bodkins made of green tale, upon which they set a high value, tho nails and teeth of their deceased relations, the teeth of dogs, and everything else that they can get, which they think either curio;is or valuable. The women also wear bracelets and anclcts, made of tho bones of birds, slielU, or any other substances which they can perforate and string upon a thread. The men had sometimes hanging to a string, which went round the neck, a piece of green tale, or whale- bone, somewhat in tho shape of a tongue, with the rude figure of a man carved upon it ; and upon this ornament they set a high value. In one instance, we saw tho gristle that divides the nostrils, and called by anatomists the septum nasi, perforated, and a feather thrust throurirh tho hole, which projected on each side over the cheeks : it is probable that this frightful singularity was intended as an ornament ; but of the m.any people we saw, wo never observed it in any other, nor even a perforation that might occasionally serve for such a purpose. Their houses are the most inartificially made of anything among them, being ^•ca^cely equal, except in size, to an English dog-kennel : they are seldom more than eighteen or twenty feet long, eight or ten broad, and five or six high, from the pole that runs from one end to the other, and forms the ridge, to the groimd. The framing is of wood, generally slender sticks, and both walls and roof consist of dry grass and hay, which, it must be con- fessed, is very tightly put together ; and some are also lined with the bark of trees, so that in cold weather they must attbrd a very comfortable retreat. The roof is sloping, like those of our barns, and the door is at one end, just high enough to admit a man, creeping upon his hands and knees : near the door is a square hole, which serves the double office of window and chimney, for the fire-place is at that end, nearly in the middle between the two sides. In some conspicuous part, and generally near the door, a plank is fixed, covered with carving after their manner : this they value as wo do a picture, and in their estimation it is not an inferior ornament. The side-walls and roof project about two feet beyond the walls at each end, so as to form a kind of porch, in which there are benches for the accommodation of the family. That part of the floor which is allotted for the fire-place is inclosed in a hollow square, by partitions either of wood or stone, and in the middle of it the fire is kindled. The floor, along the inside of the walls, is thickly covered with straw, and upon this the family sleep. Their furniture and implements consist of but few articles, and one chest commonly contains them all, except their provision-baskf Is, the gourds that hold their fresh water, and the hammers that are used to beat their fern-root, which generally stand without the door : some rude tools, their clothes, arms, and a few feathers to stick in their hair, make the rest of their treasure. Some of the better sort, whose families are large, have three or f !:• ff^^r 192 COOK'S FIRST yOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1770. I • J I \ t J i m four houses inclosed within a court-yard, the walls of which are constructed of poles and hay, and are about ten or twelve feet high. When we were on shore in the district called Tolaga, wo saw the ruins, or rather the frame of a house, for it had never been finished, much superior in size to any that we saw elsewhere : it was thirty feet in Icngtii, about fifteen in breadth, and twelve high : the £>ide3 of it were adorned with many carved planks, of a workmanship much superior to any other that we had met with in the country ; but for what purpose it was built, or why it was deserted, we could never harn. But these people, though in their houses they are so well defended from the inclemency of the weather, seem to be quite indifferent whether they have any shelter at all during their excursions in search of fern-root's and fish, sometimes setting up a small shade to windward, and sometimes altogether neglecting even that precaution, sleeping with their women and children under bushes, with their weapons ranged round them, in the manner that has already been described. The party, consisting of forty or fifty, whom we saw at Mercury Bay, in a district which the natives call Opoorage, never erected the least shelter while wo staid there, though it sometimes rained incessantly fur four-and-twenty hours together. The articles of their food have been enumerated already ; the principal, which to them is what bread is to the inhabitants of Europe, is the roots of the fern which grows upon the hills, and is nearly the same with what grows upon our high commons in England, and is called indifferently fern, bracken, or brakes. The birds, which sometimes serve them for a feast, are chiefly penguins and albatrosses, with a few other species that have been occa- sionally mentioned in this narra tive. Having no vessel in which water can be boiled, their cookery consists wholly of baking and roasting. They bake nearly in the same manner as the inhabitants of the South Seas, and to the account that has been already given of their roasting, nothing need be added, but that the long skewer or spit to which the flesh is fastened is placed sloping towards the fire, by setting one stone against the bottom of it, and supporting it near the middle with another, by the moving of which, to a greater or less distance from the end, the degree of obliquity is increased or diminished at pleasure. To the northward, as I have observed, there are plantations of yams, sweet potatoes, awi cocos, but we saw no such to the southward ; the inhabitants, therefore, of that part of thu country must subsist wholly upon fern-root and fish, except the scanty and accidental resource which they may find in sea-fuwl and dogs ; and that fern and fish arc not to be procured at all seasons of the year, even at the sea-side, and upon the neighbouring hills, is manifest from the stores of both that we saw laid up dry, and the reluctance which some of them expressed at selling any part of them to us when we offered to purchase them, at least the fish, for sea stores. And this particular seems to confirm my opinion, that tltis country scarcely sustains the present number of its inhabitants, who are urged to perpetual hcstilities by hunger, which naturally prompf ?d them to eat the dead bodies of those who were slain in the contest. Water is their universal and only liquor, as far as we could discover; and if they have really no means of intoxication, they are, in this particular, happy beyond any other people that we have yet s> n or heard of. As there is, perhaps, no source of disease, either critical or ciironic, but intemperance and inactivity, it cannot be thought strange that these people enjoy perfect and uninter- rupted health. In all our visits to their towns, where young and old, men and women, crowded about us, prompted by the same curiosity that carried us to look at them, we never saw a single person who appeared to have any bodily complaint, nor among the numbers that wo havt seen naked did we cnce perceive the slightest eruption upon the skin, or any marks vhat au eruption had left behind. At first, indeed, observing that some of them when they came off to us were marked in patches with a white flowery appearance upon different parts of their bodies, we thought that they were lepiois, or highly scorbutic; but upon examination we found that tliese marks were owing u their having been wetted by the spray of the sea in their passage, which, when it was dried away, left the salts behind it in a fine white powder. Another proof of health, which we have mentioned upon a former occasion, is the facility with which the wounds healed that had loft scars behind them, and that we saw in a recent ! f !1! mp •wi March, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 103 state ; when we saw the man who had been shot with a mnsket-ball through the fleshy pare of his Jirm, his wound seemed to be so well digested, and in so fair a way of being perfectly healed, that if I had not known no application had been made to it, I should certainly have inquired, with a very interested curiosity, after the vulne.ary herbs and surgical art '.f tiie country. A farther proof that human nature is here untainted with diseas2, is tlie great number of old men that we saw, many of wlioni, by the loss of their hair and teeth, appeared to be very ancient, yet none of them were decrepit ; and though not equal to the young in muscular strength, were not a whit behind them in cheerfulness and vivacity. CHAPTER X. — OP THE CANOES AND NAVIGATION OP THE INHABITANTS OF NEW ZEALAND: THEIR TILLAGE, WEAPONS, VND MDSIC : GOVERNMENT, RELIGION, AND LANGUAGE : WITH SOME REASONS AGAINST THE EXISTENCE OP A SOUTHERN CONTINENT. The ingenuity of these people appears in nothing more than in their canoes : they are long and narrow, and in shape very much resck::ble a New E.igland whale-boat : the larger sort seem to be built chiefly for war, and will carry from forty to eighty, or a hundred armed men. We measured one which lay ashore at Tolaga : she was sixty-eight feet and a half long, five feet broad, and throe feet and a half deep ; the bottom was sharp, with straight sides like a wedge, and consisted of three lengths, hollowed out to about two inches, or an inch and a half thick, and well fast' ned together with strong plrxiting : each side consisted o' one enl,ire plank, sixty- Miree feet long, ten or twelve inches broad, and about an inch and a qu'xrter thick, and these were fitted and lashed to the bottom part with great dexterity and strength. A considerable number of thwarts were laid from gunwale to gunwale, to which they were securely lashed on each side, as a strengthening to tlie boat. The ornament at the head projected five oi six feet beyond the body, and was about four feet and a half high ; the ornament at the stem was fixed upon that end, as the stern-post of a ship is upon her keel, and was about fourteen feet high, two feet broad, and an inch and a half thick. They both consisted of boards of carved work, of which the design was much better than the execution. All their canoes, except a few at Opoorage or Mercury Bay, which were of one piece, and hollowed by nre, are built after this plan, and few are less than twenty feet long : some of the smaller sort have outriggers, and sometimes two of them are joined together, but this is not common. The carving upon the stern and head ornaments of the inferior boats, which seemed to be intended wholly f ^r fishing, consists of the figure of a man, with a face as ugly as can be conceived, and a monstrous tongue thrust > ii t IS CANOK WITH CAHVKI) DPCOH \TION> 11)4 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1770. ! |1. 'J 1 I . ! :i> ■ ' 1' '■( out of the moutli, with the white shells of sea-cars stuck in for the eyes. But the canoes of the superior kinil, which seem to bo their men-of-war, are magnificently adorned with open-work, and covered with loose fringes of black feathers, which had a most elegant appearance : the gimwale boards were also frequently carved in a grotesque taste, and ad(jrncd with tufts of white feathers placed upon a black ground. Of visible objects that are wholly new, no verbal description can convey a just idea, but in proportion as they resemble some that are already known, to which the mind of the reader must be referred : the carving of these people being o' a singular kind, and not in the likeness of anything that is known on our side of the ocean, either " in the heaven above, or in the earth beneath, or in the waters that are under tl'.e earth," I must refer w'holly to the reprflsentations which will be found of it in the cut. Tlie paddles are small, light, and neatly made ; the blade is of an oval shape, or rather of a shape resembling a large leaf, pointed at the bottom, broadest in the middle, and gradually losing itself in the shaft, the whole length being about six feet, of which the shaft or loom including the handle is four, and the blade two. By the help of these oars they push on their boats with .amazing velocity. In sailing they are not expert, having no art of going otherwise than before the wind : the sail is of netting or mat, which is set up between two poles that are fixed upright upon each gunwale, and serve both for masts aid yards : two ropes answered the purpose of sheets, and were consequently fastened above to the top of each pole. But clumsy and inconvenient as this apparatus is, they make good way before the wind, and are steered by two men who sit in the stern, with ca< h ;i paddle in his hand for that purpose. Having said thus much of their workmanship, I shall now ;^;i " : xccount of their tools : they have adzes, axes, and chisels, which serve them also ua augers for the boring of holes : as they have no metal, their adzes and axes are made of a hard black stone, or of a green talc, which is not only hard but tough ; and their chisels of human bone, or small fragments of jasper, which they chip off from a block in sharp angular pieces like a gun- flint. Their axes they value above all that they possess, and never would part with one of them for anything that we could givo : I once offered one of the best axes I had in the ship, besides a number of other things, for one of them, but the owner would not sell it ; from which I conclude that good ones are scarce among them. Their small tools of jasper, which are used in finishing their nicest work, thoy use till they are blunt, and then, as they have no means oi' sharpening them, throw ihem away. We have given the people at Tolaga a piece of glass, and in a short time they found means to drill a hole through it, in order to hang it round the neck as an orn.ament by a thread ; and we imagine the tool must have been a piece of this jasper. ^low they bring their large tools first to an edge, and sharpen the weapon which they cad Patoo-Patoo, we could not certainly loarn : but probably it is by bruising the same substance to powder, and, with this, gr •;,',•;.''; two pieces against each other. Tlieir nets, particuljirly their seine, which is of an enormous size, have b"p f sliced already: one of these seems to be the joint work of a >v'.:oIe town, and I suppc.-. u ' j bo the joint property also : the other net, which is circular, and extended by two oi' Jr e hoops, has been particularly described, as well as the manner of baiting and using it. Their hooks are of bone or shell, and in general are ill made. To receive the fish when it is caught, and to hold their other provisions, they have baskets of various kinds and dimensions, very neatly made of wicker-work. They excel in tillage, as might naturally be expected where the person that sows is to cat the produce, and where there is so little besides that can be eaten : when we first came to Tegadoo, a district between Poverty Bay and East Cape, their crops were just covered, and had not yet begun to sprout; the mould was as smooth as in a garden nd every root had its small hillock, ranged in a regular quincunx by linos, which w^th *! • i -ljs were still remaining in the field. We had not an opportunity to see any of these hu l(»j Jmo %vork, but we saw what serves them at once for spade and plough : this instrumtat is nothing more than a long narrow stake sharpened to an edge at one end, with a short piece fastened trsinsv^rsely at a little distance above it, for the convenience of pressing it down with the wm^mm 1770. or of ? i'i' J bo or i,]ve March, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE MORLD. 115 CLUBS or NtW ZljLVN!). foot. With this they turn up pieces of ground six or seven acres in extent, tliough it is not more than three inches broad ; but as the soil is light and sandy, it makes little rcMstance. Tillage, weaving, and the other arts of peace, seem to be best known and most practised in the northern part of this country; for there is little appearance of any of them in the south : but the arts of war flourish equally through the whole coast. Of weapons they have no great variety, but such as they have are well fitted for destruc- tion ; they have spears, darts, battle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. The sjicar is fourteen or fifteen feet long, pointed at both ends, and some- times headed vith bone : these are grasped by the middle, so that the part behind balancinof that be- fore, makes a push more difficult to be parried, than that of a weapon which is held by the end. The dart and other wea- pons have been suffi- ciently described already; and it has also been re- marked, that these people have neither sling nor bow. They throw the dart by hand, and so they do stones ; but darts and stones are seldom used, except in defending their forts. Their battles, whe- ther in boats or on shore, are generally hand to hand, and the slaughter must conse- quently be great, as a second blow with any of their weapons is unnecessary, if the first takes place : their trust, however, seems to be principally placed in the patoo- patoo, which is fiistened to their wrists by a strong strap, lest it should be wrenched from them, and which the principal people generally wear sticking in their girdles, considering it as a military ornament, and part of their dress, like -he poniard of the Asiatic, and the sword of the European. They have no defensive armour ; but, besides their weapons, the chiefs carry a staff of distinction, in the same manner as our officers do the spontoon : this was generally the rib of a whale, as white as snow, with many orna- ments of carved work, dog's hair, and feathers; but sometimes it was a stick, about six feet long, adorned in the same manner, and inlaid with a shell like mother-of-pearl. Those wlio bore this mark of distinction were generally old, at least past the middle age, and were also more marked with the Amoco than the rest. One or more persons, thus distinguished, always appeared in each canoe, when they came to attack us, according to the size of it. When they came within about a cabh''s length of the ship, they used to stop ; and the chiefs rising from their seat, put on a dress which seemed appropriated to the occasion, generally of dog's skin, and holding out their decorated staff, or weapon, directed the rest of the people what they should do. When they were at too great a distance to reach us with a lance or a stone, thf^y presumed that we had no weapon with which we could reach them ; here then the defiance was given, and the words were almost universally the same, — Haromai, haromai, harrc uta a jxttoo-patoo o^e : " Come to us, come on shore, and wo will kill you all with our patoo-patoos." While they were uttering these menaces, they came gradually nearer and nearer, till they were close alongside ; talking at intervals in a peaceable strain, and answering any questions that we asked them ; and at intervals renewing their defiance and threats, till being encouraged by our apparent timidity, they began their war-song and dance, as a prelude to an attack, which always followed, and oa 1 : * I '.i'lfilj i MM} t !jl '. XFTT lOG COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1770. Li < I , ii ■-U 1 1 NE1V ZEALANDRR PROTRUOINO HIS TONGUE. was sometimes continued till it became absolutely necessary to repress them by firing some small-shot ; and sometimes ended after throwing a few stones on board, as if content with having offered us an insult which we did not dare to revenge. The war-dance consists of a great variety of violent motions, and hideous contortions of the limbs, during which the countenance also performs its part : the tongue is frequently thrust out to an incredible length, and the eyelids so forcibly drawn up, that the white appears both above and below, as well as on each side of the iris, so as to form a circle round it ; nor is anything neglected that can render the human shape frightful and deformed : at the same time they brandish their spears, shake their darts, and cleave the air with their patoo-patoos. This horrid dance is always accom- panied by a song ; it is wild, indeed, but not disagree- able, and every strain ends in a loud and deep sigh, which they utter in concert. In the motions of the dance, however horrid, there is a strength, firmness, and agility, which we could not but behold with adm' :;t.<"i ; and in their song they keep time with such ': s, that I have often heard above a hundred , i!es struck against the sides of their boats at once, so as to produce but' a single soand, at the divisions of their music. A song not altogether unlike this, they sometimes sing without the dance, and as a peace- able amusement : they have also other songs which are supg by the women, whose voices are remarkably mellow and soft, and have a pleasing and tender efiiict ; the time is slow, and the cadence mournful ; but it is conducted with more taste than could be expected among the poor ignorant savages of this half-desolate country ; especially as it appeared to us, who were none of us much acquainted with music as a science, to be sung in parts ; it was at least sung by many voices at the same time. They have sonorous instruments, but they can scarcely be called instruments of music ; one is the shell, called the Triton's trumpet, with which they make a noise not unlike that which our boys sometimes make with a cow's horn ; the other is a small wooden pipe, resembling a child's nine-pin, only much smaller, and in this there is no more music than in a pea-whistle. They seem sensible indeed that these instruments are not musical ; for we never heard an attempt to sing to them, or to produce with them any measured tones that bore the least resemblance to a tune. To what has been already said of the practice of eating hiiman flesh, I shall only add, that in almost every cove where we landed, we found flesh-bones of men near the places where fires had been made j and that among the heads that were brought on board by the old man, some seemed to have false eyes, and ornaments in their ears as if alive. That which Mr. Banks bought was sold with great reluctance by the possessor : the head was manifestly that of a young person about fourteen or fifteen years of age, and by the contusions on one side appeared to have received many violent blows, and indeed a part of the bone near the eye was wanting. These appearances confirmed us in the opinion that the natives of this country give no quarter, nor take any prisoners to be killed and eaten at a future time, as is said to liave been a practice among the Indians of Florida : for if prisoners had been taken, this poor young creature, who cannot be supposed capable of making much resistance, would probably have been one, and we knew that he was killed with the rest, for the fray had happened but a few days before. The towns or Hippahs of these people, which are all fortified, have been sufficiently described already, and from the Bay of Plenty to Queen Charlotte's Sound they seem to be the constant residence of the people : but about Poverty Bay, Hawke's Bay, Tegadoo, and Tolaga, we saw no Hippahs, but single houses scattered at a distance from each other ; yet upon the sides of the hills there were stages of a great length, furnished with stones and darts, probably as retreats for the people at the last extremity, as upon these stages a fight March, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE HOUND THE U'ORI.l). J! I? or to may be carried on with much advantage against those below, who may be reached witli great effect by darts and stones, which it is impossible for them to throw up with equal force. And indeed the forts themselves seem to bo no farther serviceable than by enabling the possessors to repress a sudden attack ; for as there is no supi)ly of water within the lines, it would be impossible to sustain a siege. A considerable stock of fern-root and dry fish is indeed laid up in them ; but they may be reserved against seasons of scarcity, and that such seasons there are, our observations left us no room to doubt ; besides, while an enemy should be prowling in the neighbourhood, it would be easy to snatch a sujiply of water from the side of the hill, though it would be impossible to dig up fern-root or catch fish. In this district, however, the people seemed to live in a state of conscious security, and to avail themselves of their advantage : their plantations were more numerous, tlieir canoes were more decorated, and they had not only finer carving, but finer clothes. Tiiis part of the coast also was much the most populous, and possibly their apparent peace and plenty might arise from their being imited under one Chief, or King ; for the inhabitants of all this j)art of the rountry told us, that they were the subjects of Teratu : when they pointed to the residence of this prince, it was in a direction which we thought inland ; but which, when we knew the country better, we found to be the Bay of Plenty. It is much to be regretted that we were obliged to leave this country without knowing anything of Teratu but his name. As an Indian monarch, his territory is certainly exten- sive : he was acknowledged from Cape Kidnappers to the northward, and westward as far as the Bay of Plenty, a length of coast upwards of eighty leagues; and we do not y< t know how much farther westward his dominions may extend. Possibly the fortified towns which we saw in the Bay of Plenty may be his barrier ; especially as at Mercury Bay he was not acknowledged, nor indeed any other single chief; for wherever we landed, or spoke with the people upon that coast, they told us that we were at but a small distance from their enemies. In the dominions of Teratu we saw several subordinate chiefs, to whom ^reat respect was paid, and by whom justice was probably administered ; for upon our complamt to one of them of a theft that had been committed on board the ship by a man that came with him, he gave him several blows and kicks, which the other received as the chastisement of autho- rity, against which no resistance was to be made, and which he had no right to resent. Whether this authority was possessed by appointment or inheritance we could not learn ; but we observed that the chiefs, as well here as in other parts, were elderly men : in other parts, however, we learnt that they possessed their authority by inheritance. The little societies which we found in the southern parts seemed to have several things in common, particularly their fine clothes and fishing-nets. Their fine clothes, which possibly might be the spoils of war, were kept in a small hut, which was erected for that purpose in the middle of the town : the nets we saw making in almost every house, and the several parts being afterwards collected were joined together. Less account seems to be made of the women here than in the South Sea islands ; such at least was the opinion of Tupia, who complained of it as an indignity to the sex. We observed that the two sexes eat together, but how they divide their labour we do not certainly know. I am inclined to believe that the men till the ground, make nets, catch birds, and go out in their boats to fish ; and that the women dig up fern-roots, collect lobsters and other shell-fish near the beach, dress the victuals, and weave cloth : such, at least, were their employments when we had an oppor- tunity of observing them, which was but seldom ; for in general our appearance made a holiday wherever we went, men, women, and children flocking round us, either to gratify their curiosity, or to purchase some of the valuable merchandise which we carried about with us, consisting principally of nails, paper, and broken glass. Of the religion of these people it cannot be supposed that we could learn much ; they acknowledge the influence of superior beings, one of whom is supreme, and the rest subordi- nate ; and gave nearly the same account of the origin of the world, and the production of mankind, as our friends in Otahcite. Tupia, however, seemed to have a much more deep and extensive knowledge of these subjects than any of the people here ; and whenever he was disposed to instruct them, which he sometimes did in a long discourse, he was sure of a numerous audience, who listened in profound silence, with such reverence and attention, that !r&i J f ;i a f I!' ;> 1!I0 COOK S FIIIST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. March, 1770. L i. ^i wo could not but wish tlicm a better teacher. What homage tliey pay to the i' itics they acknowledge, wo could not learn ; but we saw no place of public worship, like the Morals of the South Sea islanrls : yet we saw, near a plantation of sweet potatoes, a small area, of a square figure, surroumled with stones, in the middle of which one of the sharpened stakes which they use as a spado was set up, and upon it was hung a basket of fern-roots. Upon inquiry, the natives told us that it was an offering to the gods, by which the owner hoped to render them propitious, and obtain a plentiful crop. As to their manner of disposing of their dead, wo could form no certain opinion of it, for the accounts that we received by no means agreed. In luo northern parts, they told us that they buried them in the ground ; and in the southern, that they threw them into the sea : it is, however, certain, that we saw no grave in the country, and that they affected to conceal everything relating to their dead with a kind of mysterious secrecy *. But whatever may bo the sepulchre, the living are themselves the monuments; for we saw scarcely a single person of either sex whose body was not marked by the scars of wounds whicli they had inflicted upon themselves as a testimony of their regret for the loss of a relation or friend. Some of these woimds we saw in a state so recent that the blood was scarcely stanched, which shows that death had been among them while we were upon tho coast ; and makes it more extraordinary that no funeral ceremony should have ftvllen under our notice : some of the scars were very large and deep, and in many instances had greatly disfigured tho face. One monument, indeed, we observed of another kind, — the cross that was set up ne.ar Queen Charlotte's Sound. Having now given the best account in my power of the customs and opinions of the inhabitants of New Zealand, with their boats, nets, furniture, and dress, I shall only remark, that the similitude between these particulars here and in the South Sea islands is a very strong proof that the inhabitants have the same origin, and that the common ancestors of both were natives of the same country. They have both a tradition that their ancestors, at a very remote period of time, came from another country ; and according to the tradition of both, that the name of that country was IIeawije ; but the similitude of the language seems to put tho matter altogether out of doubt. I have already observed, that Tupia, when ho accosted the people hero in the language of his own coimtry, was perfectly understood ; and I shall give a specimen of the similitude by a list of words in both languages, according to the dialect of the northern and southern islands of whicli New Zealand consists, by which it will appear that the language of Otab.eite docs not differ more from that of New Zealand than the language of the two islands from each other. ENGLISH. A Chief ■A man A woman The head . The hair The ear The forehead . The eyes . T/ie cheeks The nose . The mouth The chin . N'rW ZEALAND. NORTIIEIIN. SOUTHERN Karectc . . Earccto Taata . . Taata Wlialiiiie . AVlialiine Eiipn . . Ilcaowpoho Jlacamvo . IFeoo-oo Tcniiiga . . . Hvtnlieyei Eiai . Ilcai . Mata . . . llcmata . Papaiinga . Ilcpapach Alifwh . , Hccih . l[ango\itou , Hcgaowai licouwai . . Ilakaocwai OTAHEITL. Earcc. 'J'aata. Ivahinc. Eiipo. Rooiirou. Tcrrca. Eiai. Mata. Paparea. Alicw. Outou. M Ml' • Every chief of repute is, on iiia dcatli, included in tlio long catalogno of tlieir Atuas, or inferior dci lies ; to whom as many various attributes are attributed as to tlio multifarious members of the Cireek and Roman mytholo- gies. The remains of such rliiefs as are supposed to have become Atuas are f.rst entirely divested of ilesli, and the bones arc afternnrds de|)08itcil with much ceremony in buildings erected for the purpose, highly adorned by eaived Work and rude statues of tlie deceased. From time to time the bones are taken down and cleaned, and returned to their rcsting-placo, where offerings of various kinds arc frequently made to propitiate the favour of tho Atua. They liave no Creator of the Universe in the catalogue of their deities ; the chief, or father of their gods, as they call him, wlio is named Mawe, is said to have fished up New Zea- land from the bottom of the sea ; but tho rest of the world was, they insist, created by its own Atuas, and those of New Zealand have no power over the white men. The people are remarkably supcistitious, and much under tho control of their priests, who pretend to converse with their Atuaa. — Ed. w^ March, 1770. CO ENGLISH. The arm Thejinqer . The belly The navel . Come hither . Fish .... A lobster Cocas . . , Sweet potatoes' Yams Birds . JVo . One Two .... Three . Four .... Five Sijc .... Seven . Eight Nine Ten .... The teeth The wind . A thief . To examine To sing . Bad .... Trees . Grandfather What do you call this 1 or that . COOK'S FIRST VOVAGK ROUND THE WOULD. NEW ZEALAND. OTAHEITi: NOIlTIIEnN. SOUTIIF.IIN. ITiiiingai'iiigu ......... Rem.1, Miticarii . . . , llmiiiii^'awli . . . Maiifow. Ateriilpoo ......... Oboo. Apcto llccapeto .... Pcto. Ilai'omai .... Ilaromiu . . . . Ilononiai. lleica . . . . Ileicii . , . . Evca. Kooura .... Koour.i . . . . Tooura. Taro Taro .... Taro. Cumala .... Cmnala . . . . Ciinmla. Tiipliwlio . . . . Tiipliwlio .... Tupliwho. Mannu .... Maiiiiii . . . . Maiinu. Kaoiira . . . . Kaoura .... Oiirc. Taliai Taliai. Rua Riia. Torou .......... Tdioii. Ila Ilea. Rcma Rfina. Oiiu . . . .... . , . . Uiio. Etii Hctu. Waiou . . .... . . . . Waiou. Iva llfva. Angalioiirou , .... . . . . Almiuou. Hciiiiilicw . . . Hcncaho . . . . Niliin. Mcliow Muttai. Amootoo ......... Teto. Matakntakc Mataitai. Klicara .......... IIci%'a. Kcno . . . : Kvno .... Eno. Eiatou .... Kratoii . . . . Evaou. Toubouna • . . . Tuiibuiina . . . Toiibuuna. Owy Terra Owy Tc: v li)i) •it i it ;i I i'i i N1 ' :) By this specimen, I think it appears to demonstration that the language of New Zealand and Otaheite is radically the same. The language of the northern and southern parts of New Zealand differs chiefly in the pronunciation, as the same English word is pronounced gate in Middlesex, and gecite in Yorkshire : and as the southern and northern words were not written down by the same person, one might possibly use more letters to produce the same sound than the other. I must also observe, that it is the genius of the language, especially in the southern parts, to put some article before a noun, as we do the or a ; the articles used here were generally ke or ko ; it is also common here to add the word beia after another word as an iteration, especially if it is an answer to a question ; as we say, 1/es, indeed, to he sure, really, certainly: this sometimes led our gentlemen into the formation of words of an enormous length, judging by the ear only, without being able to refer each sound into its signification. An example will make this perfectly understood. In the Bay of Islands there is a remarkable one, called by the natives Matcaro. One of our gentlemen having asked a native the name of it, he answered, with the particle, Kematuaro ; the gentleman hearing the sound imperfectly, repeated his question, and the Indian repeating his ar^wer, added beia, which made tlie word Kematuarobcia ; and thus it happened that in the log-book I found Matuaro transformed into Cumettiwarrowbia : and the same transformation by the same means, might happen to an English word. Suppose a native of New Zealand at Hackney church, to inquire " What vill.age is this?" the answer would be, " It is Hackney :" suppose the question to be repeated with an air of doubt and uncertainty, the answer might be, " It is Hackney indeed," and the New Zealander, if he had the use of letters, would probably record, for the information of his countrymen, that during his residence among us he had visited a village called " Ityshakneeindede." Tlia article used by the inhabitants of the South Sea islands, instead of ke or ko, is to or ta, but the word beia is common to both ; and when we began to learn the language, it led us into many ridiculous mistakes. But supposing these islands, and those in the South Seas, to have been peopled originally from the same country, it will perhaps for ever remain a doubt what country that is : we ■\m fitiiif ■i' m Iv H m^i^ u i; 200 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. MAncii^lTYO. I ,\}l ) ; m were, however, iinanimoualy of opinion, that the people did not come from America, which lies to the eastward ; and except there should appear to he a continent to the southward, in a moderate latitude, it will follow that they came from the westward. Tims far our navigation has certainly been unfavourable to the notion of a southen con- tinent, for it has swept away at least three-fourths of the positions upon which it has been founded. The principal navigators, whose authority has been urged on this occasion, are Tasman, Juan Fernandez, Ilermite, the commander of a Dutch squadron, Quiros, and Roggcwein ; and the track of the Endeavour has demonstrated that the land seen by these persons, and supposed to be part of a continent, is not so ; it has also totally subverted the theoretical arguments which have been brought to prove that the existence of a southern continent is necessary to preserve an equilibrium between the two hemispheres ; for upon this principle what we have already proved to be water, would render the southern hemi- sphere too light. In our route to the northward, after doubling Cape Horn, when we were in the latitude of 40°, our longitude was 110°; and in our return to the southward, after leaving Ulietea, when we were again in latitude 40°, our longitude was 145°; the difference is 35°. Wiien we were in latitude 30° the difference of longitude between the two tracks was 21°, which continued till we were as low as 20°; but a single view of the chart will convey a better idea of this than the most minute description : yet as upon a view of the chart it will appear that there is a large space extending quite to the tropics, which neither we, nor any other navigators to our knowledge, have explored, and as there will appear to be room enough for the Cape of a southern continent to extend northward into a low southern latitude, I shall give my ceason for believing there is no Cape of any southern con- tinent, to the northward of 40° south. Notwithstanding what has been laid down by some geographers in their maps, and alleged by Mr. Dalrymple, with respect to Quiros, it is improbable in the highest degree that he saw to the southward of two islands, which he discovered in latitude 25° or 26°, and which I suppose may lie between the longitude of 130° and 140° W., any signs of a continent, much less anything which, in his opinion, w^os a known or indubitable sign of such land ; for if he had, he would certainly have sailed southward in search of it ; and if he had sought, supposing the signs to have been indubitable, he must have found : the discovery of a southern continent was the ultimate object of Quiros's voyage, and no man appears to have had it more at heart ; so that if he was in latitude 20° S., and in longitude 146° W., where Mr. Dalrymple has placed the islands he discovered, it may fairly be inferred that no part of a southern continent extends to that latitude. It will, I think, appear with equal evidence from the accounts of Roggewein's voyage, that between the longitudes of 130° and 150° W. there is no main land to the northward of 35° S. Mr. Pingre, in a treatise concerning the transit of Venus, which he went out to observe, has inserted an extract of Roggewein's voyage, and a map of the South Seas ; and for reasons which may be seen at large in his work, supposes him, after leaving Easter Island, which he places in latitude 28^ S., longitude 123° W., to Iiave steered S. W. as high as 34° S., and afterwards W.N.W. ; and if this was indeed his route, the proof that there is no main land to the northward of 35° S. is irrefragable. Mr. Dalrymple indeed supposes his route to have been different, and tiiat from Easter Isle he steered N.W., taking a course afterwards very little different from that of La Maire ; but I think it is highly improbable that a man who, at his own request, was sent to discover a southern continent, should take a course in which La ]Maire had already proved no continent could he found : it must, how- ever, be confessed, that Roggewein's track cannot certainly be ascertained, because, in the accounts that have been published of his voyage, neither longitudes nor latitudes are mentioned. As to myself, I saw nothing that I thought a sign of land in my route, either to the northward, southward, or westward, till a few days before I made the east coast of New Zealand. I did indeed frequently see large flocks of birds, but they were generally such as are found at a very remote distance from any coast ; and it is also true that I frequently saw pieces of rock-weed, but I could not infer the vicinity of land from these, because I have been informed, upon indubitable authority, that a considerable quantity of the beans called ox-eyes, which are known to grow nowhere but in the West Indies, are are April, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 201 every year thrown up on the coast of Ireland, which is not less than twelve hundred leagues distant. Thus have I given my reasons for thinking that there is no continent to the northward of latitude 40" S. Of wliat may lie farther to tlio southward than 40°, I can give no opinion ; hut I am so far from wishing to discourage any future attempt, finally to determine a question which lius lung heon an object of attention to many nations, tliat now this voyage has reduced the only possible site of a continent in tlie southern humis^phere, north of latitude 40°, to so small a space, I think it would be pity to leave that any longer unexamined, especially as the voyage may turn to good account, besides determining the principal question, if no continent should be found, by the discovery of new islands in the tropical regions, of which there is probably a great number that no European vessol has ever yet visited. Tupia from time to time gave us an account of about one hundred and thirty ; and, in a chart drawn by his own hand, ho actually laid down no less than seventy-four. BOOK III. CIIAPTICn I. THE nUN FROM NEW ZEALAND TO BOTANY BAY, ON THE EAST COAST OP NEW HOLLAND, NOW CALLED NEW SOUTH WALES. VARIOUS INCIDENTS THAT HAPPENED THERE. WITH SOME ACCOUNT OP THE COUNTRY AND ITS INHABITANTS. Having sailed from Cape Farewell, which lies in latitude 40° 33' S., longitude 186° "NV., on Saturday the 31st of March, 1770, we steered westward, with a fresh gale at N.N.E., and at nuon, on the 2d of April, our latitude, by observation, was 40°, our longitude from Cape Farewell, 2" 31' W. In the morning of the 9th, being in latitude 38° 29' S., we saw a tropic-bird, which in so high a latitude is very uncommon. In the morning of the 10th, being in latitude 38° 51' S., longitude, 202° 43' W., we found the variation, by the amplitude, to be 11° 25' E., and by the azimuth, ll" 20'. In the morning of the 11th, the variation was 13° 48', which is two degrees and a half more than the day before, though I expected to have found it less. In the course of the 13th, being in latitude 39" 23' S., longitude 204° 2' W , I found the variation to be 12" 27' E., and in the morning of the 14th it was 11° 30' ; this day we also saw some flying-fish. On the 15th we saw an egg-bird and a gannet, and as these are birds that never go far from the land, "^v ontinued to sound all night, but had no ground with 130 fathom. At noon, on the lOtli, we were in latitude .39" 45' S., longitude 208° TV. At about two o'clock the wind came about to the W.S.W., upon which we tacked and stood to the N.W. ; soon after a small land-bird perched upon the rigging, but we had no ground with 120 fathom. At eight we wore, and stood to the southward till twelve at night, and then wore and stood to the N.W. till four in the morning, when we again stood to the southward, having a fresh gale at W.S.W., with squalls and dark weather till nine, when the weather became clear, and there being little wind, we had an opportunity to take several observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which gave 207" 56' W. long. : our latitude at noon was 39" 30' S. We had now a hard gale from the southward, and a great sea from the san f^ quarter, which obliged us to run under our fore-sail and niizen all night, during which we sounded every two hours, but had no ground with 120 fathom. In the morning of the 18th, we saw two Port Egmont hens, and a pintado bird, which are certain signs of approaching land, and, indeed, by our reckoning, we could not be far from it, for our longitude was now one degree to the westward of the east side of Van Diemen's Land, according to the longitude laid down by Tasman, whom we could not suppose to have erred much in so short a run as from this land to New Zealand ; and by our latitude, we could not be above fifty or fifty-five leagues from the place whence he took his departure. All this day we had frequent squalls and a great swell. At one in the .ill ^1^ ! ; il ft ' Hi 'H li !1 r I' \l ■ If V .ii fi! ,' 202 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Ai-nir,, 1770. I. '■ morning we brought to and sonmlcd, but bad no ground witli 130 fathom ; at six wo saw land extending from N.E. to AV. at tlio distanco of five or six leagues, having eighty fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom. We continued standing westward, with the wind at S.S.W., till eight, when we made all the sail we could, and bore away along the shore N.K. for the eastermost land in eigiit, bi.ing at this time in latitude 37" •'>B' S., and longitude 'JIO" 39' W. The southerniost point of land in sight, which bore from us W. J- S., I judged to lie in latitude 38", longitude 21 r T, and gave it the name of Point Hicks, because Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was the first who discovered it. To the southward of this point no land was to be seen, though it wa3 very clear in that quarter, and by our longitude, compared with that of Tasnian, not OS it is laid down in the printed cliarts, but in the extracts from Tasman's journal, published by Rcmbrantsc, the body of Van Dieincn's Land ought to have borne due south ; and, indeed, from the sudden falling of the sea after the wind abated, I had reason to think it did ; yet as I did not sec it, and as I found this coast trend N.E. and S. W,, or rather more to the eastward, I cannot determine whether it joins to Van Diemen's Land or not. At noon we were in latitude 37'' 5', longitude 210° 29' W. The extremes of the land extended from X.W. to E.N.E., and a remarkable point bore N. 20 E., at t'lo distance of about four leagues. This point rises in a round hillock, very much resembling the Ram Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, and therefore I called it by the same name. The variation by an azimuth, taken this morning, was 3° 7 1^- ; and what we had now seen of the land appeared low and level : the sea-shore was a white sand, but the country within was green and woody. About one o'clock, we saw three water-spouts at once ; two were between us and the shore, and the third at some distance, upon our larboard quarter : this phcpomenon is so well known, that it is not necessary to give a particular description of it' .e. A« six o'clock in the evening we shortened sail, and brought to for the night, having fifty- six fathom water, and a fine sandy bottom. The northermost land in sight then bore N. by E. \ E., and a small island lying close to a point on the main bore W., distant two leagues. This point, which I called Cape Howe, may be known by the trending of the coast, which is north on the one side and south-west on tiic other ; it may alf o be known by some round hills upon the main, just within it. We brought to for the night, and at four in the morning made sail along-shore to the northward. At six the northermost land in sight bore N.N.W., and we were at this time about four leagues from the shore. At noon we were in latitude 36° 51' S., longitude 209° 53' W., and about three Jcagiics distant from the shore. The weather being clear, gave us a good view of the country, which has a very pleasing a])pearance : it is of a moderate height, diversified by hills and valleys, ridges and plains, interspersed with a few lawns of no great extent, but in general covered with wood : the ascent of the hills and ridges is gentle, and the summits are not high. We continued to sail along the shore to the northward, with a southerly wind, and in the afternoon we saw smoke in several places, by which we knew the country to be inhabited. At six in the evening we shortened sail, and sounded : we found forty-four fathom water, with a clear sandy bottom, and stood on under an easy sail till twelve, when we brought-to for the night, and had ninety fathom water. At four in the morning we made sail again, a', the distance of about five leagues from the land, and at six we were abreast of a high niountain, lying near the shore, which, on account of its figure, I called Mount Dromeda hy. Under this mountain the shore forms a point to which I gave the name of Point Di oMEDAnv, and over it there is a peaked hillock. At this time, being in latitude 36° 18 S., longitude 209° 55' W., we found the variation to be 10° 42' E. Between ten and eleven, Mr. Green and I took several observations of the sun and moon, the mean result of which gave 209° 17' longitude W. By an observation made the day before, our longitude was 210° 9' W., from which 20' being subtracted, there remains 209° 49', the longitude of the ship this day at noon, the mean of which, witli this day's observa- tion, gives 209° 33', by which I fix the longitude of this coast. At noon our latitude was 35" 49' S., Cape Dromedary bore S. 30 W., at the distance of twelve leagues, and an open irro. AiMiir, 1770. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 2o;j bay, in wliicli were three or four small inlands, bore N."\V. by W., at tlic distance of five or six leapucs. This bay seemed to aft'ord b\it little shelter from the sea winds, and yet it is the only place where there ajipeared a probability of finding anehorago npon the whole coast. Wo continued to steer along the ahoro N. by K. and N.N.K., at the distance of about three leagues, and saw smoke in many jilaces near the beach. At five in the evening we were abreast of a ])oint of land which rose in a jjerpendicular cliff, and which, for that reason, I called Point Ui'higiit. Our latitude was ^'t" Ufi' S. when this point bore from us duo west, distant about two leagues : in this situation, we had about thirty-one fathom water, with a sandy bottom. At six in the evening, the wind falling, we hauled off E.N.K., and at this time the northermost land in sight bore N. by E. .J E. At midnight, being in seventy fathom water, wo brought to till four in the morning, when we made sail in for the land ; but at day-break found our situation nearly the same as it had been at five the even- ing before, by which it was apparent that wo had been driven about three leagues to tho southward, by a tide or current, during the night. After this we steered along the shore N.N.E. with a gentle breeze at S.W., and were so near the land as to distinguish several of tho natives npon the beach, who appeared to be of a black, or very dark colour. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was .35° 27' S. and longitude 209° 2',\ W. ; Cape Dromedary bore S. 28 AV., distant nineteen leagues; a remarkable peaked hill, which resembled a square dove-house, with a dome at the top, and which for that reason I called tho Pigeon IIousr, bore N. 32° 30' W. ; and a small low island, which lay close under the shore, bore N.W., distant about two or three leagues. When I first discovered this island, in the morning, I was in hopes, from its appearance, that I should have found shelter for the ship behind it ; but when we came near it, it did not promise security even for the landing of a boat. I should however have attempted to send a boat on shore, if the wind had not veered to that direction, with a large hollow sea rolling in upon the Land from the S.E., which indeed had been the case ever since we had been upon it. The coast still continued to be of a moderate height, forming alternately rocky points and sandy beaches ; but within, between Alount Dromedary and the Pigeon House, we saw high mountains, which, except two, are covered with wood : these two lie inland behind the Pigeon House, and are remarkably flat at the top, with steep rocky cliffs all round them, as far as we could sec. The trees, which almost everywhere clothe this country, appear to be large and lofty. This day the variation was found to be 9° 50' E., and for the two last days, the latitude, by observation, was twelve or fourteen miles to the southward of the ship's account, which could have been the effect of nothing but a current setting in that direction. About four in the afternoon, being near five leagues from the land, we tacked, and stood off S.E. and E., and the wind having veered in the night, from E. to N.E. and N., we tacked about four in the morning, and stood in, being then about nine or ten leagues from tho shore. At eight, the wind began to die away, and soon after it was calm. At noon, our latitude, by observation, was 35° 38', and our distance from the land about six leagues. Cape Dromedary bore S. 37 W., distant seven- teen leagues, and the Pigeon House N. 40 W. In this situation we had 74 fathom water. In the afternoon, we had variable light airs and calms, till six in the evening, when a breeze sprung up at N. by W. : at this time, being about four or five leagues from the shore, we had seventy fathom water. The Pigeon House bore N. 45 W., Mount Dromedary S. 30 W., and the northermost land in sight N. 19 E. We stood to the north-east till noon the next day, with a gentle breeze at N.W., and then we tacked and stood westward. At this time our latitude, by observation, was 35° 10' S., and longitude 208° 51' W. A point of land which I had discovered on St. George's day, and which therefore I called Cape George, bore W. distant nineteen miles, and the Pigeon House (tho latitude and longitude of which I found to be 35° 19' S. and 209° 42' W.) S. 75 W. In the morning wt had found the variation, by amplitude, to be 7° 50' E., and by several azimuths 7° 54' E. We had a fresh breeze at N.W. from noon till three ; it then came to tho west, when we tacked and stood to the northward. At five in the evening, being about five or six leagues from the shore, with the Pigeon House bearing W.S.W. distant about nine leagues, we had eighty-six fathom water ; and at eight, having thunder and lightning, with heavy squalls, we brought to in 120 fathom. ilii I' i i : : fl- air, ■'( I, 201 COOKS FIRST .VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. Aphil, 1770. i' ■• At three in the morning, wc mide sail again to the northward, having the advantage of a fresli guic at S.W. At noon we were about three or four luagues from the shore, and in latitude 31'' 22* S., longitude 'J08° 36' W, In the course of this day's run from the preced- ing noon, which was forty-five miles north-east, wo saw smoke in several places near tho beach. About two le.igues to the northward of Cape George, the shore seemed to form a bay, which promised shelter from tho north-east winds ; but as tho wind was with us, it was not in my power to look into it without beating up, which would have cost me more time than I was willing to spare. The north point of this bay, on a<-count of its figure, I named Lono Nose ; its latitude is 35' 0', and about eight leagues north of it there lies a point, which, from the colour of the land about it, I called Rkd Point : its latitude is 34* 29', and longi- tude ^J08^ 45' W. To the north-west of Red Point, and a little way inland, stands a round hill, the top of which looks like tho crown of a hat. In the afternoon of this day we had a light breeze at N.N.W. till five in the evening, when it fell calm. At this time, wo were between three and four leagues from the shore, and had forty-eight fathom water : the variation by azimuth was 8° 48' E. and the extremities of this land were from N.E. by N. to S.W. by S. Before it was dark, we saw smoke in several places along the shore, and a fire two or three times afterwards. During the night we lay bccahned, driving in before the sea till one in the morning, when we got a breeze from the land, with which we steered N.E., being then in thirty-eight fathom. At noon it veered to N.E. by N., and we were then in latitude 34* 10' S., longitude 208° 27' W. : the land was distant about five leagues, and extended from S. 37 W. to N. ^ E. In this latitude there are some white cliffs, which rise per])cndicularly from the sea to a considerable height. We stood off the shore till two o'clock, and then tacked and stood in till six, when wc were within four or five miles of it, and at that distance had fifty fathom water. The extremities of the land bore from S. 28 W. to N. 25° 30" E. We now tacked and stood off till twelve, then tacked and stood in again till four in the morning, when we made a trij) o^ till day-light ; and during all this time we lost ground, owing to the variableness of thr Is. We continued at the distance of between four and five miles from the shore, til ftornoon, when we came within two miles, and I then hoisted out the pinnace and yaw. to attempt a landing, but the pinnace proved to be so leaky that I was oblij^-i to hoif»t her in again. At this timt> we saw several of the natives walking briskly along tiie shore, four of whom carried a small canoe upon their shoulders. We flattered ourselves that they were going to put her into the water, and come off to the ship, but finding ourselves disappointed, I determined to go on shore in the yawl, with as many as it would carry. I embarked, therefore, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and four rowers : we pulled for that part of the shore where the Indians appeared, near which four small canoes were lying at the water's edge. The Indians sat down upon the rocks, and seemed to wait for our landing ; but to our great regret, when we came within about a quarter of a mile, they ran away into the woods. We determined, however, to go on shore, and endeavour to procure an interview ; but in this we were again disappointed, for we found so great a surf beating upon every part of the beach, that landing with our little boat was altogether impracticable. We were therefore obliged to be content with gazing at such objects as presented themselves from the water. The canoes, upon a near view, seemed very much to resemble those of the smaller sort at New Zealand. We observed, that among the trees on shore, which were not very large, there was no underwood ; and could distinguish that many of them were of the palm kind, and some of them cabbage trees : after many a wishful look we were obliged to return, with our curiosity rather excited than satisfied, and about five in the evening got on board the ship. About t'ais time it fell calm, and our situatAon was by no means agreeable. We were now not mora than a mile and a half from the shore, and within some breakers., which lay to the southward ; but happily a light breeze came off the land, and carried us out of danger. With this breeze we stood to the northward, and at day-break we discovered a bay, which seemed to be well sheltered from all winds, and into which, therefore, I deter- mined to go with the ship. The pinnace being repaired, I sent her, with the master, to sound the entrance, while I kept turning up, having the wind right out. At noon, the mouth of the bay bore N.N.W., distant about a mile, and seeing a smoke on the shore, wc ApRir., 1770. COOKS FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 206 directed our glasses to the spot, and soon diacovored ten people, who, upon our nearer approach, left their fire, and retired to a little eminence, wiienco they could conveniently oi»servo our motions. Soon after two canoes, each having two men on board, came to the shore just under the eminence, and the men joined the rest on the top of it. The pinnace, which had been sent a-head to sound, now a])proached the place, upon which all the Indians retired farther up the hill, except ono, who hid himtielf among some rocks near the landing- place. As the pinnace proceeded along the shore, most of the people took the same route, and kept abreast of her at a dii^tanco. When she came back, the muster told us, that in a covo a little within the harbour, some of them had come down to the beach, and invited him to land by many signs and words, of which bo knew not the meaning ; but that all of tliem were armed with long pikes, and a wooden weapon shaped somewhat like a cimcter. The Indians who had not followed the boat, seeing the ship ap* proacli, used many threatening gestures and bran- dished their weapons ; particularly two, who made a very singular appearance, for their faces seemed to have been dusted with a white powder, and their bodies painted with broad streaks of the samo colour, which passing obliquely over their breasts and backs, looked not unlike the cross-belts worn by our soldiers ; the same kind of streaks were also drawn round their legs and thighs, like broad garters. Each of these men held in his hand the weapon that had been described to us as like a ciineter*, which appeared to be about two feet and a half long ; and they seemed to talk to each other with great earnestness. "We continued to stand into the bay, and early in the afternoon anchored under the south shore, about two miles within the entrance, in six fathom water, the south point bearing S.E., and the north point East. As we came in we saw, on both points of the bay, a few huts, and several of the natives, men, women, and children. Under the south head we saw four small canoes, with each one man on board, who were very busily employed in striking fish with a long pike or spear. They ventured almost into the surf, and were so intent upon what they wore doing, that although the ship passed within a quarter of a mile of them, they scarcely turned their eyes toward her; possibly, being deafened by the surf, and their attention wholly fixed upon their business or sport, they neither saw nor heard her go past them. The place where the ship had anchored was abreast of a small village, consisting of about six or eight houses ; and while we were preparing to hoist out the boat, we saw an old woman, followed by three children, come out of the wood ; she was loaded with fire-wood, and each of '.le children had also its little burden. When she came to the houses, three more children, younger than the others, came out to meet her : she often looked at the ship, but expressed neither fear nor surprise. In a short time she kindled a fire, and the four canoes came in from fishing. The men landed, and having hauled up their boats, began to dress their dinner, to all appearance, wholly unconcerned about us, though we were within half a mile of them. We thought it remarkable that all of the people we had yet seen, not NATIVE OF NEW HOLLAND WITH BOOMERANG. * This is the singular weapon known as the boome- rang, the use of wliich lias been rendered fiiniiliar by its introduction*nniong us as an instructive toy. It is de- scribed by Captain King as very formidable in its effects. It is used by the natives with success in killing the kanga- roo; but is used more as a hunting than a warlike wea- pon. It is a short, curved piece of heavy wood, and is propelled ihrough the air in a direction opposite to the point aimed at, and rising in rapid whirls, it passes over the head of the thrower, and strikes a point behind him. The natives are remarkably skilful in its use. The size varies from eighteen to thirty inches in length, and from two to three inches broad. The shape is that of an obtuse angle. One in Captain King's possession was twenty-six inches long, its greatest breodlh two inches and a half, thickness half an inch, and tlie angle formed from the centre 140 degrees. — Ed. ' I ii.> III. t I >.l i I i. 206. COCK'b FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. April, 1V70. \i U. j i > ; , " t : M -1 one had the least appearance oi" clothing, the old woman herself being destitute even of a fig-leaf. After dinner the boats were manned, and wo set out from the ship, having Tupia of our party. We intcadcd to land where wo saw the people, and began to hope that as they had so little regard to the ship's coming into the bay, they would as little regard our coming on shore. In this, however, we were disappointed ; for as soon as we approached the rocks, two of the men came down upon them to dispute our landing, and the rest ran away. Each of the two champions was armed with a lance about ten feet long, and a short stick, which he seemed to handle as if it was a machine to assist him in managing or tl' rowing the lance. They called to us in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dissonant language, of which neither we nor Tupia understood a single word : they brandished their weapons, and seemed resolved to defend their coast to the uttermost, though they were but two, and we were forty. I could not but admire their courage, and being very unwilling that hostilities sliould com- mence with such inequality of force between us, I ordered the boat to lie upon her oars : we then parleyed Ivy signs for about a quarter of an hour, and to bespeak their good-v-ill, I threw them nails, beads, and other trifleti, wh'ch they took up, and seemed to be well ])leased with. I then made signs that I wanted water, and, by all the means that I could devise, endea- voured to convince them that we would do il em no harm. They now waved to us, and I was willing to interpret it as an invitation ; but upon our putting the boat in, they came again to oppose us. One appeared to be a youth about nineteen or twenty, and the other a man of middle age ; as I had now no other resource, I fired a mus^ 3t between them. Upon the report, the youngest dropped a bundle of lances upon the rock, but recollecting himself in an instant, he snatched them up again with great '