IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ // o ..»« !.0 I.I ■>i|2£ 125 £ US IL25 Ml 1.4 (pllil ^' > ^' Hiotographic ^Sciences Corporation r-i WIST MAIN STRIET WIBSTER.N.Y. MSM (716)873-4303 '^ i\ 5V <^ ^ . A 'A u. VOYAGE T O T H E PACIFIC O C E*A N; Undertaken by Command of his MAJESTY, FOR MAKING DISCOVERIES IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE: performed under the DireAion of Captains COOK, CLERKE, and, GORE, In the Vears 1776, 1777, 1778, 1 779. an|t 1780. Being a copious^ comprehenfive» and fatisfaAory Abrid^ctoent of thti VOYAGE WRITTKK BY Captain JAMES COOK, F. R. S. AND Captain JAMES KING, LL.D. and F.R.S. lUuftrated with CUTS. In FOUR VOLUMES* VOL. L LONDON: Printed for JOHN FIELDING, Pater-nofter-Row. MDCCLXXXV* 11 ^A I /\ vv' '> 7 (? f ^ e «■»» ^ rfviJ TO. THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD VISCOUNT HOWE, AND THE OTHER LORDS COMMISSIONERS FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD HIGH ADMIRAL OF GREAT-BRITAIN, CAPTAIN COOK'S VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, IS, WITH GREAT DEFERENCE, INSCRIBED, BY THEIR L0RDSHIP5 MOST OBEDIENT AND DEVOTED SERVANTS, The EDITORS, 2D45ri rai ^ s, m w t V ] INTRODUCTION. TO do juftice to the beginnings of dif- covery, we muft afcribe to the Dutch the merit of being our harbingers ; though we afterwards went beyond them, even in their own track. And how fuccefsfully his Majefty's fhips have penetrated into the ob- fcureft recefles of the South Pacific Ocean, will appear from a recital of their various and extenfive operations, which have adjufted the geography of fo confiderable a part of the globe. The feveral lands, mentioned to have been difcovered by preceding navigators, whether Spanifh or Dutch, have been diligently fought after ; and mod of thofe which appeared to be of any confequence, found out and vifited; when every method was put in pracn:ice to correal former miftakes, and fupply former deficiencies. But, befides pcrfedling the difcoveries of their predeccITors, our late navigators have Vol. I. a added Ti INTRODUCTION. i added a long catalogue of their own, to en- rich geogr:iphical knowledge. By repeatedly traverfing the Pacific Ocean, within the fouth tropic, a feeming cndlefs profufion of habi- table fpots of land was found. Iflands in- terij)erfed through the amazing fpace of four- fcore degrees of longitude, either fcparately fcattered, or grouped in numerous clufters ; and fuch ample accounts have we received, both of them and their inhabitants, that, to make ufe of Captain Cook's own words, we Have left little more to be do7ie in thofe parts, Byron, Wallis, and Cartaret, all contri- buted towards increafing our knowledge of the ifles in the Pacific Ocean, within the li- mits of the Southern tropic j but how far that ocean extended to the vveil, by what lands it was bounded on that fide, and the connexions of thofe lands with former dif- coveries, remained unknown, till Captain Cook, after his firll voyage, brought back a fatisfa6lory declfion of this important quef-^ tion. With wonderful fkill and perfeverance,- amidft perplexities, difficulties, and dangers, he traced this coaft almoft two thoufand miles, from the 38° of fouth latitude, crofa the tropic, to its northern extremity, within - ^ii 10' 1 1» 1 INTRODUCTION. vii lo' and a half of the equinodial, where it joined the land already explored by the Dutch, which they have denominated New Holland. When the recefTes of the globe are invefli- gated, in order to promote general know- ledge, and not with a profJDedl of enlarging private dominion j when we traverfe the globe to vifit new tribes of our fellow-creatures, as. friends, wifliing to learn their exiftence, for the exprefs purpofe of bringing them within the pale of the offices of humanity, and to relieve their wants, by communicating to them our fuperior attainments ; the voyages projedled by his gracious Majefty George the Third, and carried into execution by Cap- tain Cook, have not, it is prefumed, been entirely ufelefs. Some rays of light mufl have been darted on th^ Friendly, Society, and Sandwich iflands, by our repeated in- tercourfe with them. Their flock of ideas muft naturally be enlarged, and new mate- rials muft have been furniihed them for the exercife of their reafon, by the uncommon obje6ls we exhibited to them. Convinced, by comparing themfelves to their Englifh vifitors, of their extreme in- feriority. 71 ! Viil INTRODUCTION. fciiority, they will probably endeavour to emerge from it, and to rife nearer to a level with thofe, who left behind them fo many proofs of their generofity and humanity. The ufeful animals and vegetables intro- duced amongft them, will certainly con- tribute to the comforts and enjoyments of life. When Great -Britain was firft vifited by the Phoenicians, the inhabitants were paint- ed favages, rhuch lels civilized than thofe of Tongataboo, or Otaheite ; and it is not im- poflible, but that our late voyages may, in procefs of time, fpread the bielTings of ci- vilization amongft the numerous iflanders of the South Pacific Ocean, and be the means of aboliflnng tlieir abominable repafts, and almoft equally abominable facrifices. '*rrv 1 ■f, ^1 CONTENTS. BOOK I. TRANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VOYAGE, TILL OUk DEPARTURE FROM NEW- ZEALAND. CHAP. I. Captains Cook and Gierke appointed to the ReJolU" tion and Dl/covery — Preparations for the Voy» age—^Sail from Deptford to Long Reach — Are viftted there by the Earl of Sandwich and others-^ Proceed to Plymouth — Employ?vents there-^Num^ ber of Officers and Men in each Ship — Depar^ ture of the Refolution^ Page i C H A P. li. J'he Refolution proceeds to ^eneriffe-^Receptien there — Captain Cook viftls the Governor — De- fcriptien of Santa Cruz Road — Ample Supplies to be obtained— 'Some Account of the IJland, (ind of the Cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna'— Agri- culture — Natural Hijiory- — Air — Climate— Pf-o- duce — Def crip tion of the Inhabitants, 8 e H A p. III. Departure fromTeneriffe — Danger of the Ship from the funken Rocks near Bonavifta — Ijle of Mayo — Neceffary Precautions againft Rain and Heat in the Ntighbourhood of the Equator — Pojiticn of the Coaft of Brazil — Arrival at the Gape of Good Hope— Captain Cook's Reception there— ^ Lofes fome of hts Sheep — Other TranfaSlions at the Cape-^Jun^ion of the Dijcovery — Account of Mr, Anderjon's Journey up the Country, 1 6 Vol. I.— n' I. b CHAP. ■■^i (., « ? VI CONTENTS. C H A P. IV. ^he Refolution and Difcovery leave the Cape of Good Hope — See two IJlands, named Prince Ed- ward's IJlands — Defer iption of their Appear- ance — Viftt KergueUn's Land — Arrive at Chrift- mas Harbour — iake in Water there — Difcover an Infcription — Defcription of Chrijlmas Har- bour, Page 16 CHAP. V. Depart from Chrijlmas Harbour — Range along the Coajl — Cape Cumberland^ Cumberland Bay, Point Pringky Howe's Foreland, ^c, defcribed — Re- markable Beds of Rock-weed — Danger from Shoals ^"Anive at Port Pallifer — Cape George de- fcribed — Mr, Anderfon^s Natural Hijlory of the Animals y Plants , Soil, i^c, of Kerguelen's . Land, 3 c CHAP. VI. Pajfage of the Ships from Kerguelen's to Van Diemen^s Land — ^he ReJ'olutiofi damaged by a Squall—- Arrival in Adventure Bay — Various Interviews with the Inhabitants — Defcription of their Per- fonsy Drefsy Manners, and Cujioms—Mr, An- derfon's Remarks on the Chara^er and Language of the Natives, and en the various ProduSlions cf the Country, 47 CHAP. VII. Courfe to New-Zealand — 'TranfaSfions in ^een Charlotte's Sound — Inter courfe with the New^ Zealatiders — Their Dexterity in building Huts—^ information with regard to the Maffacre of Cap- tain Furneaux's People — Two violent Stc'-ns — Account of Kahoora, who headed the Party that killed our People — Of the two Touths who ac- company us on board — Captain Cook's Obferva- tions on the Inhabitants of New-Zealand. 60 CHAP. CONTENTS. VW Cape of ince Ed^ Appear^ n Cbriji" Difcover as Har- Page 16 along the ay. Point bed^Re- om Shoals eorge de- ry of the erguelen's Diemen^s Squall — nterviews ^heir Per- Mr, An- language roduSlions in ^eeit he Nezv- 'g Huts — ' e of Cap-- Sto' 'IS — ^arty that who ac- Obferva- id. 60 HAP, f. CHAP. VIII. • The Country near ^leen Charlotte's Sound de^ fcrihed — T!he Fertility of the Soil-^'Temperat^re of the Climate — Rain and Winds — Plants — Birds ^—Fijh — Animals — Defcription of the Perfons^ of the Inhabitants — Drefs — Ornaments — Builditigs — Canoes or Boats — Foody and Method of Cookery ^^ Arts— 'Weapons — Horrid Cruelty to their Ene- tnies, whoje Bodies they mangle arid eat^-r-V^a- rious other Cujloms. Page 78 B O K II. GONTAINING OUR ADVENTURES FROM OUR DE- PARTURE FROM NEW-ZEALAND, TILL OUR AR- RIVAL AT OTAHEITE, OR THE SOCIETy |SI,ANDS. CHAP. I. Qourfe of the Voyage — Behaviour of the ttva New- Zealand Touths on board — The IJland of Man- geea dif covered — Account of the Perfons and Drefs of the Inhabitants — Mourooa and his Companion defcribed — Figure of a Mangeean Canoe — "The Coaft of the IJland examined — ImpraSlicahility of landing — I'ranfaSfions with the Natives — De* fcription of the IJland — Difpofttion and Manners of the Mangeeans, Page 93 C H A P. II, An IJland named Wateeoo difcovered — Vijtts from the Inhabitants on board the Ships — Their Per- fons and Drefs defcribed— The Coaji of the IJland examined — Lieutenants Gore and Burney, Mr, AnderJon and Omai, fertt on Sh^rC'^Mr, Ander^ b % ' fort' 4 ^ yiii CONTENTS* im w JcrCs Account of their Reception — They are intra* duced t.o three Chiefs — Dance of twenty, young JVomcn dejcribed— Omai^s Jpprehenfions of being YOaJled — The Iflandersjend Provifioris on board — Further Defcriptibn of the Natives — Of their double Canoes — ^rees and Plants — Omai's Expe- dient to prevent being detained on Shore — He meets with three of his Countrymen— Account of their dijlrefsful Voyage — Additional Remarks re- lative to JVakeoo,^ ' " Page 104 CHAP. III. QtakoGtaia vijited — Dejcription of the Ifland^ and its. Produce — Birds — Fifb — Viftt Hervefs Ifiand—^ Dif cover it to be inhabited-^The Inhabitants re- fuje to come on board— ^Their Propenfity tp Theft — > Their Manners , Perjons, Drejs, Canoes , £s?f. — Make a fruitlejs Attempt to land— Bear away for the Friendly IJlands — Two Iflets of Palmer^ Jlon's Ifland touched at — Dejcription of the Iflets y their Produce, t^c. — Refrefhments procured there -^Proceed to the Friendly Ifla^dSn ' ' 12c CHAP. IV. Barter with the Natives of Komango and other ^ Iflandsy for Provijions, (ffc. — Arrival at Anna- mooka — Variety of TranJa5iions there — A Viftt received from FeenOu, a principal Chief from Tongatab(fO—*His Reception in the Ifland — Dines frec^tiently on board the ReJolution-^Several In- fiances If the pilfering Difpofttion of the Na- tives — Punijhmehts inflicted on them — Account of Annamooka--Proceed to Hapaee, " V^X C H[ A P. V. Afrival at Hapaee — Friendly Reception there-^^ ' faipa harangues the People — Exhorts them not V: I N T E N T S« ix mty young ^s of being n board — 'Of their ai's Expe- Shore — He iccount of marks re- Page 104 'A and its. f Iftand-^ 'itants re- Theft— Sy £sff.— ' Uar away Palmer- the IJlets, ired there ind other at Anna^ -/i Viftt ief from ^ — Dines 'eral hi^ the Na- ■count of there_ — ' hem not 'I foftealy 6?r. — Prefenis and Solemnities — Enter: tainment — -Single Combats with Clubsrr-Wrefi* ling— Boxing — Female Boxing — Marines exercif- ed — A Dance by Men — Fire-Works — Night En^ iertainmentSy conftfiing of Singing and Dancing by Men and Women, Page 158I CHAP. VI. Captain Cook makes an Excurfion into LefoogH'^ Defer iption of that Ifland — Occurrences there ^' A falfe Report propagated — A Female Oculifl^-t Singular Method of Jhaving — X^e Ships are rs^ moved to another Station— ^A remarkable arti- ficial Mount and Stone'^Defcription of Hoo* laiva — Account ofFoulahoy King of the Friendly Ifles — 'The Commpdore accompanies him on Shore-^ Departure from the Hapaee Iflands — Kotoo de^ fcribed-^Xhe Ships return to AnnamooL —Meet-\ ing of Poulaho and Feenou—Both the Ships Jlr ike f « the Rocks— 'Arrival at Tongataboe, iji^ •^^1* C K( A P. vn. Favourable Reception at Tongataboo — Dijlribiition. of Porky TamSy and Kava among the King*s At- tendants- — The Ships fupplied with Water — The Obfervatory erected— The Natives flock to our people from all garters — Ex cur/ton of our Cap' tains to fee Mareewageej— Their Difappointmenl ^-Dejcription of the Village where the Chiefs re* Jide^Interviews with Mareewagee and Toobou—* Prefents from the King's Son — A curious Work of Ari^-rrocefs of manufaSfuring Cloth — A grand Haiva given by Mareewagee— -Exhibition of Fir e^ works-^WreJtling — Boxing — Prefents of Animals to the Chiefs- — Poulaho, Feenou, (^c, confned — The King's Prefenty and Haiv^i 189. ^ H A P, ) ,ll m u CONTENT*. CHAP. VIIL Some dfficers plundered of their Mujkets^ and other Articles^ by the Natives — Ofnai complains to the King of this Outrage — Conjequences that it was proOable might attend it — A Vifit to Poulaho—^ Defer iption of a Fiatooka — Country Entertain- ment at Peulaho^s Ihufe — His Mourning Cere- mony — Beajlly Method of preparing Kava — Jc- tount of Onevy — Mejfrs, Kifig and Anderfon viftf Tuttafaihe — Entertained by him — Method of dreffmg Hogs^ and carving them — Manner of fajjing the Night — Objcrvations on the Country — » Prepare for Departure — Defer iption of the Iflafidy its Animalsy Vegetables, Qc, Page 21^ CHAP. IX. ffrcmge Sclemmty at Mooa, called Natche, in Ho^ , nour of the King's Son — Defcription of many ex^ traordinary- ProcefJtGiis and Ceremonies during the Jirft Day — Manner of fupping and fpending the Evening at the King*s Haufe — Defcription of the Jecond Days Ceremony — Captain Cook ventures, himjelf in the Midji of the AJfembly — His Recep^ tion there — -Arrival at Eooa — Some Account . of that Jfland — IVeigh Anchor^ and turn through the ChamieL . 24Q C H A P. X. iJ/<2/ the Friendly Iflands ^Ji'ith Regret — T/Vw/f not irrijemployed in vtfiting the Friendly Iflands-— rVa- riety of Refrejhments to be procured thfre — Nujn- ^•^^^- of Iflands y among which are Keppel's and 's Bff caw en's Iflands — Account of Vavaooy, lla- . moAy and Fe^ee — Method of calculating Dijlances . hy Tin e — Omai incapable of giving exa5t Infor- mation-^ P erf ons of the inhabit ants defcribed—^. Their i CONTENTS. XI nd other IS to the t it was ulabo—^ tertain- g Cere- m — Ac- •fon vifit 'bed of nner of untry — » e Iflafidy ige 21^ in Ho^ 'any ex^ ring the Hng the I of the ventures Recep-* ount . of through . 24Q me not s-rVa^ Vs and ,. Ha. ijlames infer- 'ihed— Their Their Dijeafes — CbaraSfer — Manner of wearing the Hair in both Sexes — Of puncturing and paint- ing their Bodies — Their Habits — Ornaments^ £^r. Page 2^7 CHAP. XI. Various Employments of the Women of the Friendly Iflands — Occupations of the Men— Agricidturt — Manner of building their Houjes — Their Furui- ture — Canoes — tVorking-Tools — Cordage — Fijb^ ing-Tackle—InJiruments of Mufic — fVeapo>u — Vegetable and Animal Food — Methods of Cooh' ing — Diver/tons — Marriage — Mourning Cer£mo - nies — Cufiom of cutting off their little Finger^^ '^Their Dei/ies — Sentiments concerning the Soul, and a future .State — Their Fiatookas — Form of Government — Power of the Chiefs — Mode of paying Homage to the King — Taboo incurred by it — Precaution againjl Famine — Of tb-e Tammaha4 "^Language — Tides, 2S5 BOOK in. OCCURRENCES AT OTAKEITE AND THE SOCIETV ISLES; AND PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE TO TH£ COAST OF NORTH-AMERICA. G H A P. I. Heavy Squall — The Ifland of Toobouai difcoversd-^ Its Situation^ Extent^ and Produce — Defcription qf the Perjons, Drefs, and Canoes, of its Inha- bitants — Arrival in Oheitepeha Bay at Ota-- heite^Omai's Reception-^His imprudent Cov- - • 4.' duU 1 ■uf «: til CONTENT Sk Ju^^-^ Account of twd Spanijh Ships which baa twice vifited Otaheite — Grtat 'Demand for red Feathers —Captain Cook vifits a Chiefs who was /aid by Omai to be the God of Bolabola — Account of the Houfe ereffed by the Spaniards — Infcrip- tions — Allowance of Grog lejfened — T^e Cap^ tain's Interview with PTaheiadoda^^DeftripttOfi iff a ToafapaoiH^Att Enthuftaf^—The Ships anchor in Mapavai Bay*, Page 308 C H A P. It* tntervieio with Oioo, King of Otaheite— imprudent Beuaviour of Omai — Various Animals landed — - Occupations on Shore — Vijit from a Native who bad been at Uma — Account of Oedidee—Falje ' Report — *!the IJlanders make a precipitate Retreat i hut foon return — A Rebellion in Eimeo — Council of Chiefs — War with Efrteo refohed on — A hu- man Sacrifice'— Circumftantial Dejcription of thai Solemnity — ^e great Mbrai at AttahoofOo de^ fcribed — Behaviour of the Natives during the Ceremony — Particular Cufloms^ 329 CHAP. IlL Re- embark for Matavai — ConferHnce with Towhd refpeSling the human Sacrifice — Dejcription of the Heevas-^-^Dinner given by Omai— ^Exhibition of Fire-works — Remarkable Method of making a Prefent of Cloths-Manner of prejirtiin^i for many Months^ the dead Body of a Chief-^^Anotber humah Sacrifice offered — RiSng on Horjebacky Matter of great Aftonijhment to the Natives — Oioo's great Attention to prevent Thefts , &c.-^ Animals given to him by Captain Cook — /Audience given td Etdry, i^c, — Manner of fighting iwd fVar Canoes'— Naval Power J ^c, J54 4 VOY- \ ■• ■V which hai md for red fi who was a — Account 'j — In/crip' "The Caf^ 'DefiriphoH 'hips anchor Page jo8 -imprudent Is landed — < Native wha dee^Falfe Ue Retreat i — Council m — A hu- Hon of thai %hoono de^ during the 3^9 'th Towhd ftion of the hibitidn of making a ^tfin^y for T-Another Uorfebacki Natives — 'ts.^c.^ -/Audience bting iwd VOY. ■■■■■aiMi =:ii \ \ \ 1 1 t' m ■ 1 i M i . ' 1 ^ ' u « I »• , # 33« 34J wmi| ii"'i"i fc'iiB xngi o \J VOYAGE ^^im T O T H E l> A C I F I C OCEAN. B O O K I. TllAWSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE VoyAGE, TILL OUR DEPARTURE FROM NEW ZEALAND. %' ':i CHAP. I. 1 Captains Cook and Ckfke appointed to the Rejolu^ tion and Dijcovery — Preparations for the Vqy^ age — Sail from Depford to Long Reach — jire viftted there by the Earl of Sandwich and others --•Proceed to Plymouth — Employments there-^ Number of Officers and Men in each Ship — Be* parture of the Refolution, ON the loth of February, 1776, Captain Cook went on board his Majefty's floop the Refolution, and hoifted the pendant, having received a conrimifTion to command her the preceding day. The Difcovcry, of three hundred tons, was, at the fame time, prepared Vol. I.— n'' I, B for ^^^ I'.' Exhibiting- the DISCOVERIES inad< 4KT/r CtRVl.H \ O^ R T Hi *Uttffl Vtva *■ K I Dxathou SbcOAiidl! llKI^^ISIl r;< JO i/^-' 40 I ^'tOMKS w StMichart J 1 1 -" f""" l«""!"ll »'l| •140 iMimni pnii'i ■ la'nii'n^ cipinr- he SllIPvS under his Coniniaii(! . Kihnuvif f'ot ^/v'/J.r K'ynfir . thtitvc F.Mn'vn lJt>ri.i /I St fhioiif.i FiiitUfM'.'. tfOCCi t'ljtJion I . \Cmll^,a wmm l'iMj/ii/M'4.t7^Jf.hJ.Storki\Ae PiWiuitlh . Sratclu-ixl fc Whit;ik.T , /»/ Mirin ll^^r^ "^ Kqri.vOc 'I'l ai. ft Ml vtnuu I L I N K y.Qrix o\ A If It' ^^>- ,'«•/■.<<•'/»*» /.<"♦■ ^ * (rirmilwu Itliiilfmtf s ■^ \ IT \.i;,jiif> M«A /Mi'iii i \iin ifmitr \iify%l 11 Utr.tljTII 4ni nutrk / - :. t / /t c r, K T ™ TTT ^//7/7 l.nnr. k .lolm Fielding; J-^'-'.-t V^) iruiumui ; /P ' ,-fi ciUlmuli l.w-"''' /y 7/w/>/' «* ly •r-#V C ■y.Awmfrw Dre.t • '7i.t 1 . •'\'-^, >/«("■ ■'♦// / . //'*/■ J ix Ju/vw Fifty fi ./£/>'. «« -*r I k»^' ;;///■. I^rp.l.tjr-fi o I'AfUu'fiM.i' i'viiirw nifwii tianr- hmum^ytblf A J>'<:U7;t '77* \ \ :n „, ' A/yv r iTflf^ It .I'M If) i i/atbti of' ■> rrt E /Vwi Fifhlt k VA/t ■Ujiuiitain,' of' Iff :v„ t.i77+ IIIIM Mlli'M miBlllll IffillJ'Jl ll!M!!!lll llHIMII II! I f' grjBI |[ llll!|-lll l.l.'J!l.lllll irill'llllll •JIO 125 'i40 155 m leWiiip- J'Ttf;} Filter iiPitcr Rrw,\,oixAo\\ . - ■ . ...ji»r»J" / ' Hatrhrti I'rulp* \> ff hi I 1! # 2 A VOYAGE TO THE for the fervice, and Captain Gierke appointed ta the comnnand of her. It may hr necefiary to ob- ferve, that Captain Clerke had been Captain Cook's Second Lieutenant on board the Refolu- tion, in his fecond voyage round the world. Thefe two fhips were then equipping in the dock at Deptford, for a voyage to make farther difcoveries in the Pacific Ocean, under' the di- rection of Captain Cook. The Refblution was hauled into the river on the 9th of March to complete her rigging, and take in ftores and provifions for the voyage. Both fliips, indeed, were abundantly fupplied with every thing requifite for a voyage of fuch duration. We failed on the 29th of May, and arrived the next day at Long Reach, where our powder and Ihot, and other ordnance (lores, were received. On the 8th of June, while we lay in Long Reach, we had the fatisfadion of a vifit from the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Pallifer, and others of the Board of Admiralty, to examine whether every thing had been completed purfuant to their orders, and to the convenience of thofc who were to embark. They honoured Captain Cook with their company to dinner on that day j and were faluted, on their coming on board, and on their go.ng afhore, with feventeen guns and three cheers. To I rf rACIFIC OCEAN. To convey fome permanent benefit to the in- habitants of Otaheite, and of tiie other idands which we might happen to vifit, his Majefty commanded fome ufeful animals to be taken out. On the loth we took on board a bull, two cows with their calves, and fome flieep ; with hay and corn for their fupport. We were alfo furnifhcd with a fufficient quantity of our valuable Euro- pean garden feeds, which might add frefli fup- plies of food to the vegetable produdions of our newly-difcovered iflands. Both the Ihips, by order of the Board of Ad- miralty, were amply fupplied with an extenfive aflbrtment of iron tools and trinkets, to facilitate a friendly commerce and intercourfe with the in- habitants of fuch new countries as we might dif- cover. With refpedl to our own wants, nothing was refufed us that might be conducive to health, comfort, or convenience. Thofe at the head of the naval department were equally folicitous to render our voyage of public utility ; accordingly we received on board, the next day, variety of aftronomical and nautical inftruments, which the Board of Lonixitude in- trufted to Captriin Cook and Mr. King, his Se- cond Lieutenant J they ha^'ing engaged to ilipply the place of a profefled obfervator. The Board, likewife, put into their pofieflion the time-keeptr, which Captain Cook had carried out in his hid voyage, and which had performed lb will. It B 2 was # I MA I I 4 AVOVAGETOTHE was conftnided by Mr. Kendal, and was a copy of Mr. Harrifon's. Another time-keeper, and the fame allbrtment of aftronomical and other inftriiments, were put on board the Difcovery, for the life of Mr. William Bailey, a diligent and fkilfiil obfervator, who was engaged to embark with Captain Gierke. • Mr. Anderfon, Surgeon to Captain Cook, added to his profefllonal abilities a great profi- ciency in natural hiftory. He had already vi- fited the South-Sea Iflands iii the fame fhip, and enabled the Captain to enrich his relation of the preceding voyage with ufcful and V:)lu''^.)e re- marks. . Though feveral young men, among the fea- officers, were capable of being employed in con- ilruding charts, drawing plans, and taki g views of the coalls and head-lands, Mr. Webber was engaged to embark with Captain Cook, for the purpole of fupplying the defedls of written accounts, by taking accurate and malterly draw- ings of the mod ii^emorable fcenes of our tranf- aftions. . .; • The neccflary preparations being compk:td,, Captain Cook received orders to proceed to Ply- mouth, and to take the Difcovery under his command. In confequence of which, he order- ed Captain Clerke to carry his Ihip alfo round to Plymouth, - _; ^- ; ' > ... The i PACIFIC OCEAff, S^ '"■ «ife. Tie Refoliition, with the Difcovcry in com- pany, failed from Long Reach on the 15th of June, and ancliored at the Nore the fame even- ing. The Difcovery proceeded the next day in obedience to Captain Cook's order, and the Re- folution remained a: the Nore till Captain Cook, who was then in London, fhould join her. It being our intention to touch at Otaheitc and the Society Iflands, it had been determined to carry Omai back to his native country: accord- ingly Captain Cook and he fet out from London early on the 24th, and reached Chatham between ten and eleven o'clock, where they dined with Commiflioner Proby, who afterwards ordered his yacht to convey them to Sheernefs, where the Captain's boat was waiting to take them on board the Refolution. Though Omai left London with fome degree of regret, when he refledbed upon the favours and indulgences he had received, yet, when mention was made of his own iflands, his eyes fparkled with joy. He entertained the hightit ideas of this country and its inhabitants j but the plcafing profped of returning home, loaded with what would be deemed invaluable treafures there, and of obtaining a diftinguifhed fuperiority among his countrymen, operated fo far as to fupprefs every uneafy fenfation j and when he got on board the (hip, he appeared to be quite happy. B 3 Omai A VOYAGE TO THE -I ^J Omai was furniflied, by his Majefty, witli quantities of every artivcle that were fuppofed to be in cftimation at Otaheite. He alfo received fcveral prefents from Lord Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and many others. Every method had, indeed, been employed, during his abode in England, and at his departure, to make him the inftru- mcnt of conveying to his countrymen, an exalted opinion of Britifh greatnefs and generofity. About noon on the 25th we weighed anchor, and made fail for the Downs, with a gentle breeze irth-weft by weft. At nine the fame day we ancnored, with the North Foreland bearing fouth by eaft, and Margate Point fouth-weft by fouth. On the 26th, at two o'clock, we weighed, and flood round the Foreland j and at eight o'clock the fame morning anchored in the Downs. Here Captain Cook received two boats on board, which had been built for him at Deal j and the next day, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we got under fail, but the breeze foon died away, and we anchored again. At ten o'clock the fame night we weighed again, and prca^eeded down the . channel. We anchored at Plymouth Sound on the 30th, at three o'clock in the afternoon. The Difcovcry had arrived there three days before. We faluted Admiral Amhcrft, whofe flag was flying on board the Ocean, and he returned the compliment. Wc PACIFIC OCEAM. We were employed on the ifl: and 2d of July in replacing the water and provifions we had ex- pended, and in receiving on board a fiipply of port wine. On the 8th Captain Cook received his inftriifbions for the voyage, and an order to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope with the Refolution ; with directions alfo to leave an order for Captain Clerke to follow him, as foon as he fhould join his fhip, he being at that time in London. The officers and men on board the Refolution (including marines) were one hundred and twelve, and thofe on board the Difcovery were eighty. On the loth of July the proper perfons came on board, and paid the officers and crew up to the 30th of laft month. The petty officers and fea- men received alfo two months wages in advance. Such indulgence to the latter is cuftomary j but the payment of what was due to the fuperior of- ficers, was in confideration of our peculiar fitua- tion, to enable us to defray the expence pf fur- nifhing ourfelves with neceflaries for a voyage of fuch uncommon duration. "*- In the morning of the 1 1 th. Captain Cook de- Ivered into the hands of Mr. Burncy, Firft Lieu- tenant of the Difcovery, Captain Gierke's failing orders ; a copy of which he alfo left with the com- manding officer of his Majelty's (hips at Ply- mouth, to be delivered to the Captain on his ar- rival. In the afternoon we v/eighed with the ebb, B 4 and 8 A VOYAGE TO THE and got out beyond all the Ihipping in the Sound, where we were detained moft of the following day. At eight o'clock in the evening, we weigh- ed again, and flood out of the Sound, with a gentle breeze at north-weft by weft. CHAP. II. The Refolution proceeds to Teneriffe — deception there — Captain Cook viftts the Governor — J) - call fide of the ifiand, before the town of the fame name. It is faid to be the principal road of Te- neriffe for fiielter, capacity, and the goodnefs of its bottom. The water to fupply the fliipping, and for the ufe of the inhabitants of Santa Cruz, is derived from a rivulet that runs from the hills, which is ronveyed into the town in wooden troughs. As thefe troughs were at this time repairing, frefh water was extremely fcarce. From the appearance of the country about Santa Cruz, it might naturally be concluded that Teneriffe is a barren fpot : we were convinced, however, from the ample fupplies we received, that it not only produced fiifficient to fupply its own inhabitants, but ailb enough to fpare for vifitors. Though wine is the chief produce of the ifland, beef may be had at about three-pence flerling a pound; the oxen, however, are fmall, lean, and boncy. Sheep, goats, hogs, and poul- try, may be had on terms equally reafonable. A great variety of fruits are to be had in plenty, as pears, fii2;s, grapes, mulberries, mufk- melons, &c. bcfides others that were not then in feafon. The pump- tilt I PACIFIC OCEAN. It pumpkins, potatoes, and onions, which giow here, are excellent. Indian corn is produced on this ifland, and is fold at about three Tnillings and fix-pence per buflicl : the fruits and vegetables are, in gene- ral, very cheap. Though the inhabitants are but indifferently fupplied with filh by the adjoining feas, they are engaged in a confiderable fiihery on the coaft of Barbary, and the produce of it fells at a very moderate price. Teneriffe is certainly a more eligible place than Madeira, for fhips to touch at which are bound on long voyages ; but the wine of the latter is infinitely fuperior to that of the former : the dif- ference of their prices is almoll as confiderable as their qualities, for the beft Teneriffe wine was fold for twelve pounds a pipe, whereas a pipe of the beft Madeira was worth confiderably more than double that fum. Behind the town of Santa Cruz, the country rifes gradually to a moderate height j afterwards it continues to rife fouth weft ward towards the celebrated pic of Teneriffe. But we were much difappointed in our expedations with refpedt to its appearance *. * In Sparta's Hiftory of the Royal Society, page 200, &c. is an account of a journey to the top of the pic of Teneriffe. A modern traveller, viz. the Chevalier de Borda, who mea- fured the height of this mountain in Auguft 1776, makes it 12340 Englifli feet. The 12 A VOYAGE TO THE ' The ifland, caftward of Santa Cruz, appears perfectly barren. Ridges of high hills run to- wards the fca, between which arc deep vallies, terminating at mountains that run acrofs and are higher than the former. On the ift 6f Auguft in the afternoon, Mr. Anderfon (Captain Cook's furgeon) went on Ihorc to one of thefe vallies, intending to reach the top of the remoter hills, but time would not permit him to get farther than their foot. The lower hills produce great quantities of the euphorbia sanarienjis , The people on the fpot imagine its juice to bt fo cauftic as to erode the fl-tin ; but Mr. Anderfon convinced theiln to the contrary, by thrufting his finger into a plant full of it. The inhabitants dry the bulhes of euphorbia, and carry them home for fuel. Santi Cruz, though rtot large, is a wdl-built city. Their churches have ftOt a magnificent ap- pearance without, but they are decent and toler- ably handfome within. Almoft facing the (lone pier, which runs into the fea from the town, is a marble column, lately ereded, enriched with human figures which re- flect honour to the ftatuary. On the 2d of Au^uft, in the afternoon, Mr. Anderfon and three others hired mules to ride to the city of Laguna, about the diftancc of four miles from Santa Cruz. They arrived there be- tween five and fix in the eyening, but the fight PACIFIC OCEAN. 13 of it did not reward us for our trouble, as the roads were very bad, and our cattle but indiffe- rent. Though the place is extenfive, it hardly deferves to be dignified with the name of a city. There is fome good houfcs, but the difpofition of the llreets is very irregular. Laguna is larger than Santa Cruz, but much inferior to it in ap- pearance. The road from Santa Cruz to Laguna, runs up a ftecp barren hill i but, lower down, we faw fome fig-trees and corn-fields. The corn, how- ever, is not produced here without great labour, the ground being greatly encumbered with (tones. Nothing elfe prefented itfclf, deferving notice, except a few aloe plants in flower on the fide of the road. The laborious work in this ifland is chiefly performed by mules, horfes being fcarce, and re- ferved for the ufe of the oflicers. Oxen are alfo much employed here. Some hawks and parrots were feen, which were natives of the ifland ; as alfo the fea-fwallow, fea-gulls, partridges, fwal- lows, canary-birds, and blackbirds. There are alio lizards, locufts, and three or four forts of dragon flies. Mr. Anderfon was informed, by a gentleman of acknowledged veracity, that a flirub is com- mon here, agreeing exaclly with the defcription given by Linns^us of the tea flirub, as growing in China and Japan. It is confidered as a w6ed, I , and 14 A VOYAGE TO THE '2 and large quantities are rooted out of the vine* yards every year. The Spaniards, however, who inhabit the ifland, foii.c'time.s make ufe of it, and afcribe to it all the qualities of the tea innported from China. The fame gentleman mentioned to Mr. Ander- fon another botanical curiofity, whieh is called the irapregnated lemon. It is a diftinft and pcr- fefl lemon enclofed within another. A certain fort of grape growing here, is deem- ed an excellent remedy in phthifical complaints. The air and climate are remarkably healthful, and particularly adapted to afford relief in fuch complaints. By rcfiding at different heights in the ifland, it is in the power of any one to pro- cure fuch a temperature of air as may be befl fuited to his conftitution. He may co** nue where it is mild and falubrious, or he may -jd till the cold becomes intolerable. No pcrfon, it is faid, can live comfortably within a mile of the perpendicular height of the pic, after the month of Augufl. Smoke continually iffucs from near the top of the pic, but they have had no earthquake or erup- tion fince 1704, when the port of Garrachica was deftroyed, being filled up by the rivers of burn- ing lava that flowed into itj and houfes are now built, where fhips formerly lay at anchor. The trade of Teneriffe is very confiderable, forty thoufand pipes of wine being annually made :. ■ 3 there J PACIFIC OCEAN. 15 there; which is confumed in the ifland, or made into brandy, and lent to the Spanifli Weft-Indies. Indeed the wine is the only confiderable article of the foreign commerce of Tcneriffe, unlefs wc reckon the large quantities of filtering ftoncs brought from Grand Canary. The race of inhabitants found here when the Spaniards difcovered the Canaries, are no longer 2 diftinfl people, having intermarried with the Spanifli fettlers ; their defcendants, however, may be known, from their being remarkably tall, ftrong, and large-boned. The men are tawny, and the women are pale. The inhabitants, in general, of Teneriffe, are decent, grave, and ci- vili retaining thatfolemn caft which diftinguiflics thofe of their country from others. Though we are not of opinion that our manners are fimilar to thofe of the Spaniards, yet Omai declared, he did not think there was much difference. He faid, indeed, that they did not appear to be fo friendly as the Englifh ; and that their perfons nearly rc- fcmblcd thofe of his countrymen. CHAP, iC A VOYAGE TO T H E CHAP. III. Departure from Teneriffe — Banger of the Ship from the fiinken Rocks near Bonavijia — IJle of Mayo — Necejfary Precaution^ againfi Rain and Heat in the Neighbourhood of the Equator — Pojition of the Co aft of Brazil — Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope — Captain Cook's Reception *here — - Lofes fome of his Sheep — Other Tranf anions at the Cape — Jun^Jion of the Di/covery — Account of Air. Anderjon^s Journey up the Country, ♦,,,,. HAVING got our wate*- and other articles on board, we weighed anchor on the 4th of Auguft, quitted TenerifFe, and proceeded on our voyage. On the loth, at nine o'clock in the evening, w€ faw the ill and of Bonavifta bearing fouth, diftant about a league; though we then thought our- felvcs much farther off, but ic foon appeared that we were miilaken j for, after hauling to the eaft- ward, to clear the funken rocks that lie near the fouth-eaft point of the illand, we found ourfelves clofe upon them, and bearly -.veathered the break- ers. Our fituation was, for fome minutes, fo very alarming, that Captain Cook did not chufe to found, as that might have increafed the danger, without any poflibility of leffening it. Having PACIFIC OCEAN. 17 Having cleared the rocks, we fleered between Bonavifta and the ifland of Mayo, intending to look Into Port Praya for the Difcovery, as Captain Cook had told Captain Gierke that he (hould touch there. At one o'clock we faw the rocks fouth- weft: of Bonavifta, bearing fouth-eaft, diftant three or four leagues. On Monday the 12th, at fix o'clock in the morning, thi iflc of Mayo bore fouth-fouth-eaft, diftant four or five leagues. We founded, and found ground at fixty fathoms. At the diftance of three or four miles from this ifland, we faw not the leaft appearance of vegetation; nothing prefented itfelf to our view, but that lifelefs brown, fo common in unwooded countries under the tor- rid zone. During our continuance among thefe iflands, wc had gende breezes of wind, varying from the fouth-eaft to eaft, and fome calms. On the 13th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we arrived be- fore Port Praya, in the ifland of St. Jago, where two Dutch Eaft-India fliips, and a fmall brigan- tine, were at anchor. The Difcovery not being there, we did not go in,' but ftood to die fouth- ward. We loft the north-eaft tradi'-wind, the day af- ter we left the Cape de Veide ifl^nds ; and, on the 30th, got that which blowi from tJie fourh eaft. The wind, during this interval, was principally in the fouth-weft quarter. It generally blew a Vol. 1. — n'' I. gentle •rS A VOYAGE TO THE gentle breeze, butfometimcs frefh. and in fqnalls. We had few calms, and thofe of fhort duration. Between the latitude of 12", and of 7° north, the weather was very gloomy, and frequently rainy j infomuch, that we were enabled to fave as much water as filled the greateft part of our empty cafks. Every bad confcquence is to be apprehended from thefe rains, and the clofe fultry weather ac- companying them. Commanders of fhips ought carefully to purify the air between decks with fires and fmoke, and to oblige the people to change their cloaths at every opportunity. Thefe precautions were ftri(!^ly obferved on board the Refolution and Difcovery; and we cnjcyed the advantage of it, having fewer fick than on either of C?ptain Cook's former voyages. Our fhip, however, was very leaky in all her upper works. The fultry weather had opened her fcams fo wide, that the rain-water pafTed through as it fell. The officers in the gun-room were driven from their cabins, by the water that came through the fides, and hardly a man could lie dry in hiL bed. The caulkers were employed to repair thefe defefts, as foon as we got into fair fettled weather; but Captain Cook would not truft them over the fides while we were at fea. On the. 1 ft hf September, we crofTed the equa- tor, in the longitude of 27° 38' weft, and paflcd the afternoon in performing the old ceremony ot $ ducking Pacific ocean. 19 ducking thofe, who had not crofied the equator before. On the 8th, we were a little to the fouth- ward of Cape St. Auguftine. We proceeded on our voyage, without any remarkable occurrence, till the 6th of Odober. Being then in the lati- tude of 35° 15' fouth, longitude 7° 45' wed, we alternately met with light airs and calms for three fucceflive days. For fomc days before we had fcen albatrofles, and pintadoes, and we then iliw three penguins. In confequence of this we found- ed, but found no ground with a line of one hun- dred and fifty fathoms. We Ihot a few birds, one of which was a black petrel, about tlie fize of a crow. In the evening of the 8th, a bird, which the failors call a noddy, fettled on our riggin':!;, and was taken. It was larger than a common Englifii black-bird, and nearly of the fame colour, ex- cept the upper part of the head, v h.ich was v. liite. It was web-footed, had bl . ^^^.^y ^nd a long black bill. Though it is laici t! cfc birds never venture far from land, we knewof noi.c nearer our ftation than Gough's or Richmond iflanJ, v.hich could not be lefs than one hundred leagues. Eut, as the Atlantic ocean, fouthward of us, has h tn but little frequented, there may pofiibly be more iflands than we know of. A freih gale from thenorth-wefl: fucceedcd th^i calm weather, which continued two days. Af- terwards we had variable lisht airs for about C 2 twenty* 20 A VOYAGE TO THE i, II .1 I I I '■« |!:, ) twenty four hours, when the north-weft wind returned, and blew frefh. On the 17th we faw the Cape of Good Flope, and, on the i8th, an- chored in Table-bay, in four fathoms water. After receiving the ufual vifit from the Mafter- attendant and the Surgeon, Captain Cook fent an officer to Baron Plettenberg, the Governor, and faluted the garrifon with thirteen guns, and was complimented, in return, with the fame number. Two French Ealt-India fliipswere in the bay, the one outvv'ard, and tiie other homeward-bound. After having faluted, Captain Cook went on iliore, accompanied by fome of his officers, and waited on the Governor, the Lieutenant-governor, the Fifcal, and the Commander of the troops. Thefe gentlemen received Captain Cook with the grcateil civility -, and the Cjovernor, in particu- lar, voluntarily promifed him every affiftancethat the place afforded. Before Captain Cook return- ed on board, he ordered frefli meat, greens, &c. to be provided every day for the fliip's company. On the lid we fixed our tents and obfervatory; the next day we began to obferve equal altitudes of the fun, in order to difcover whether the watch had altered its rate. The caulkers were fct to work to caulk tlic fliip -, and Captain Cook had concerted ineafiires for fupplying both fhips with fuch provifions as were wanted -, and, as the fe- veral articles for the Refolution were got ready, they were immediately onveyed on board. The PACIFIC OCEAN. 7*1 The homeward-bound French fliip failed for Europe on the 26th, and by her we fent letters to England. The next day the Hampfhire Eaft- India (hip, from Bencoolen, anchored in the bay. On the 31ft of October it blew exceflively hard at fourh-eaft, and continued for three days. The Refolution w?.s the only fhip in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchors. The llorm ceafed on the 3d of November, and on the 6th the Hampfhire failed for England, in which Captain Cook fent home an invalid. On the loth, in the morning, the Difcovery arrived in the bay. She failed from Plymouth on the ift of Augud, and would have been with us a week fooner, had not the late gale of wind blown her off the coall. Captain Clerke, on his pafiage from England, loft one of his marines, by falling over board. No other accident happened among his people, and they arrived in perfedt health. The next day, the Difcovery wanting caulk- ing, Captain Cook fent all his workmen on board her, and lent every other afhftance to the Captain to expedite his fiipply of provifions and water. Having, by the Governor's pcrmiflTion, taken our cattle on fliore, on the night preceding the 14th, fome dogs got in amongft the fhecp, forced them out of the pen, killed four, and difperfed the reft. We recovered fix of them the next day j but among thofewhichweremifling were two rams, aiid two of the fineft ewes in the whole flock. C 3 Though II S.I ■ 1- Km !i m Hi m 4' 2% A VOYAGE TO THB Though the Dutch frequently boafl: of the po- lice at the Cape, yet the Captain's (heep evaded all the vigilance of the Fifcal's officers and peo- pie. At length, af[er much trouble and expencc, by employing feme of the lowcfh fellows of the place, we recovered all but the two ewes. One of the rams, however, was fo miferably torn by the dogs, that we thought he would never recover. Mr. Hcmmy, the Lieutenant-governor, very obligingly offered to make up this lofs, by giv- ing Captain Cook a Spanilh ram, out of fome he had fent for from Lifbon ; but the Captain de- clined the offer, thinking it would equally an- fwer his purpofe to take with him fome of the Cnpe rams : in this, however, the Captain was. miltaken. Mr. Hemmy had endeavoured to in- troduce European fheep at the Cape ; but all his attempts were fruftrated by the obftinacy of the country people, who highly efteemed their own breed, on account of their large tails j the fat of which fomctimes produces more money than the ■whole carcafs befides. Indeed, the moft remark- able thing in the Cape flieep is the length and thicknefs of their tails, which weigh from ten to fifteen poun^Is. While the fhips were repairing for the profe- cution of our voyage, Mr. Anderfon, and fome of our officers, made an excurfion, to take a fur- vjey of the neighbouring country. Mr. Ander- fon PACIFIC OCEAN. 23 fon relates their proceedings to the following cffeft; In the forenoon of Saturday the i6th of No- vember, he, and five others, fet out in a wag- gon, to take a view of the country. They crofTed the large plain to the eaftward of the town, w'nich is entirely a white fand, rcfembling that which is commonly found on beaches. At five in the af- ternoon they pafled a large farm-houfc, fome corn-fields and vineyards, fituated beyond the plain, where the foil appeared worth cultivating. At feven they arrived at Stellenbofli, a colony^ in point of importance, next to that of the Cape. The village ftands at the foot of the range of lofty mountains, about twenty miles to the eaft- ward of Cape-Town, and confifts of about thirty houfes, which e neat and clean : a rivulet, and the (belter of fome large oaks, planted at its firft fettling, form a rural profpe6t in this defert coun- try. There are fome thr'ving vineyards and or- chards about the place, which feem to indicate an excellent foil, though perhaps much may be owing to the uncommon ferenity of the air. At this feafon of the year, Mr. Anderfon could find but few plants in flower, and infeds were very fcarce. He and his companions left Scel- lenbolh the next morning, and foon arrived ac the houfe they had paflfed on Saturday; Mr. Cloeder, the owner of which, having fent them an invitation to vifit him, they were entertain- C 4 cd 24 A VOVACE TO THE (. I ll f' ff ■' ' ' -It cd lyy this gentleman with great politenefs and holpitality. They were received wjth a band of mufic, which continued playing while they were at dinnerj which, in that fituation, might be reckoned elegant. In the afternoon they crofled the country, and pafTed fome large plantations. In the evening they arrived at a farm-houfc, which is faid to be the firft in the cultivated tra6t called the Pearl. Here they had a view of Drakenftein, the third colony of this country, which contains feveral little far.ns or plantations. Plants and infedls were as fcarce here as at Stellenbodi, but there was a greater plenty of ihrubs, or fmall trees, naturally produced, than they had before feen in the country. On Tuefday the 19th, in the afternoon, they went to fee a remarkable large ftone, called by the inhabitants the Tower of Babylon, or the Pearl Diamond. It ftan^'^ upon the top of fome low hills, and is of an oblong llia'pe, rounded on the top, and lying nearly fouth and north. The eaft and weft fides are nearly perpendicular. The fouth end is not equally fteep, but its greateft heif^ht is there; whence it declines gently to the north-part, by which they afcended, and had a very extenfive profpedl of the whole country. , The circumference of this ftone is about half a mile, as they were half an hour walking round it, including allowances for flopping and a bad '^ f -'. road. PACIFIC OCEAN. as road. Its height feems to equal the dome of Sti Paul's church. Except feme few fiflures, it is one uninterrupted mafs of (lone. The ftone is of that fort which mineralogifts call Saxum Cm- ghiiinatum. On the 20th, in the morning, they fet out from the Pearl, and, going a different road, palT- ed through an uncultivated country to the Tygcr Hills, where, they beheld fome tolerable corn- fields. About noon, they flopped in a valley for refrefhment, where they were plagued with a vaft number of mufquitoesj and, in the evening, ar- rived at the Cape-Town. On Saturday the 23d, we got the obfervatory, clock, &c. on board. From the refult of feveral calculations and obfervations, we had reafon to conclude, that the watch, or time-piece, had per- formed well all the way from England. CHAP, a6 A VOYACE TO THE C II A P. IV. 'The Rejolution and Difcovery leave the Cafe of Good Hope — See two Ijlandsy named Prince Ed- ward^s IJlands — Dejcription of their appear- ance — VifJ Kerguelen's Land — Arrive at Chrtfi- mas Harbour — Take in Water there — Difcover an Infer ipt ion — Dejcription of Chrijlmas Har- bour. 'A if CAPTAIN Cook fearing a fecond difafter, got his fhecp and other cattle on board as foon as poflible. He alfo increafed his flock by purchafing tvo bulls, two heifers, two ftone- horfes, two mares, two rams, fome ewes and goats, fome poultry, and fome rabbits. Both (hips being fupplied with provifions and water fufficient for two years and upwards, and every other neceffary article, and Captain Cook having given Captain Clerke a copy of his inftruc- tions, we repaired on board in the morning of the 30th. A breeze fprung up at fouth-eaft, at five in the afternoon, with which we weighed and ftood out o^ the Bay j at nine it fell calm, and we anchored. At three o'clock the next morning, we weighed and put to fea, with a light breeze at fouth, but did not get clear of land till the 3d of December in the morning. On PACIFIC OCEAN. V On Thurfday the 5th, a fquall of wind carried away the mizen top-mad of the Refolution, but we had another to replace it. On the evening of the 6th, being then in the latitude of 39"* 14' louth, and in the longitude of 23° 56' eaft, wc obferved feveral fpots :>{ water of a re(Klifh hue. Upon examining Ibme of this water that was taken up, we perceived a number of fmall animals, which the micro fcopc difcovered to rcfemble cray- fifh. We continued to the fouth-caft, followed by a mountainous fca, which occafioned the fhip to roll exceedingly, and rendered our cattle trouble- fome. Several goats, efpecially the males, died, and fome (heep, "We now began to feci the cold in a very fenfible degree. On Thurfday the 12th, at noon, we difcovered land extending from fouth-eaft by fouth, to fouth- caft by eaft. We, at length, difcovered it to be two iflands. That which lies moft to the fouth, appeared to be about fifteen leagues in circuit ; and the moft northerly one, about nine leagues in circuit. We pafled at equal diftance from both iflands, and could not difcover either tree or Ihrub on cither of them. They feemed to have a rocky fhore, and, excepting the fouth-eaft parts, a ridge of barren mountains, whofe fides and fummits were covered with fnow» Thfiit. ; '1 ;: ii' 28 A VOYAGE TO THE Thefe two iflands, and four others more to the* eatt, were dircovcred by Captains Marion du Frel'ne and Crozct, French navigators, in January 1772, on their paflage from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Iflands. As they have no names in the French chart of the fouthern hemifphere, Captain Cook named the two we now faw Prince Fdward's Illands, and the other four by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Iflands. We hid now, in general, ftrong gales, and very indifferent weather. After leaving Prince Edward's IQands, we ihaped our courfe to pafs to the fouthward of the four others, to get into the latitude of the land difcovered b/ Monfieur dc Kerguelen. Captain Cook had received inflru6lions to exa- mine this illand, and endeavour to difcover a good harbour. On the i6th we faw numbers of penguins and divers, and rock-weed floating in the fea J and on the aid we faw a very large feal. The weather was now very foggy, and as we hourly expected to fall in with the land, our navigation was both dangerous and tedious, f On the 24th, at fix in the morning, the fog clearing away a little, we faw land, bearing fouth fouth-caiL, which we afterwards found to be an ifland of confiderable height, and about three Ican-ues in circuit. V/e foon after difcovered ano- thu* of equal magnitude, about one league to the • caftwardj PACIFIC OCEAM. 29 eadward ; and, between thcfc two, fome fmailcr ones. In the direftion of foiith by eaft, another high ill and was lecn. We did but juft weather the ifland laft mentioned : it was a high round rock, nain?d Bligh's Cap. Captain Cook fup- pofed tills to be the fame that Monfieur de Ker- guelen called the We of Rendezvous; but he knew nothing that could rendezvous at it but the fowls of the air, for it was certainlj' inacceflible to every other animal. The weather beginning to clear up about ele- ven, we tacked, and (leered in for the land. At noon we were enabled to determine the latitude of Bligh's Cap to be 48'' 29' fouth, and its longitude 680 40'. We paired it at three o'clock, with < frelh gale at weft. Prefently after we clearly faw the land, and at four o'clock it extended from fcuth-eaft to fouth- weft by fouth, diftant about four miles. The lefr extreme, which Captain Cook judged to be the northern point of this land, called in the French chart of the fouthern hemifphere Cape Francois, terminated in a high perpendicular rock i and the right one in a high indented point. .Towards the middle of the land there appSare4 to be an inlet ; but, on our approaching it, we faw it. was only a bending on the coaft : we, there- fore, bore up to go round Cape Francois. va t Having .?o A VOYAGE TO THE ■ij -'i;'i Having got off the Cape, we obferved the coail, to the fouthward, much indented by points and bays, and, therefore, fully expedled to find a good harbour. We foon difcovered one, into ■which we began to ply ; but it prefently fell calm, and we anchored in forty-five fathom water : the Difcovery alfo anchored there foon after. Mr. Bligh, ihe mafter, was ordered to found the har- bour j who reported it to be fafe and commo- dious. Early in the morning of the 25th we weighed, and having wrought into the harbour, we an- chored in eight fathoms water. The Difcovery got in at two o'clock in the afternoon ; when •Captain Gierke informed us, that he had with difficulty efcapcd being driven on the fouch point of the harbour, his anchor having ftarted before he could Ihorten in the cable. They were, there- fore, obliged to fet fail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to heave it up, when they perceived that one of its palms was broken off. Immediately after we had anchored. Captain Cook ordered all the boats to be hoifted out, and the empty watcr-cafks to be got ready. In the mean tirue he landed, to fcarch for a convenient fpot where they might be filled, and to obferve what the place afforded. He forad vaft quantities of penguin?, and other birds, and feals, on the fhore. The latter were JDOC PACIFIC OCEAN, 3« not numerous, but fo infenfible of fear, that v/c killed as many as wc chofe, and made ufe of their fat and blubber to make oil for our lamps, and other purpofes. Frefh water was exceedingly plentiful ; but not a fingle tree or (hrub was to be difcovered, and but little herbage of any kind ; though we had flattered ourfelves with the hope of meeting with fomething confiderable growing hcte, havina; obferved the fides of feme of the hills to be of a lively green. Before Captain Cook returned :o his fhip, he afcended a ridge of rocks, rifing one above ano- ther, expeding, by that means, to obtain a view of the country i but before he had reached the top, fo thick a fog came on, that it was with difficulty he could find his way down again. Towards the evening we hauled the feine at the head of the harbour, but caught no more than half a dozen fmall fifli ; nor had we any better fuccefs the next day, when we tried with hook and line. Our only refource, therefore, foi frefh pro - vifions, was birds, which were innumerable. Though it was both foggy and rainy, on Thurf- day the 26th, we began to fill water, and to cut grafb for our cattle, which we found near the head of the harbour. The rivulets were fwelled to fuch a degree, by the rain that fell, that the fides of the hills, bounding the harbour, appeared to be covered with a fliect of water. The 32 A VOYAGE TO THE •* The people having laboured hard for two fuc- cefiive days, and nearly completed our water. Captain Cook allowed them the 27th of Decem- ber as a day of reft, to celebrate Chriftmas. In confequence of which, many of them went on Ihore, and made excurfions into the country, which they found defolate and barren in the ex- treme. In the evening one of them prefented a quart bottle 10 Captain Cook, which he had found on the north-fide of the harbour, faftened with fome wire to a projeding rock. This bottle contained a piece of parchment, with the follow- ing infcription : Ludovico XV, Galliarum rege^ et d * de Boynes regi a Se ere fir ^d res maritimas annis 1772 et J773- It is evident, from this infcription, that we were not the firit Europeans who had vifited this harbour. Captain Cook fuppofes it to have been left by Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, who went on jhore the 13th of February 1772, the day that Monfieur de Kerguelen dlfcovered this land j but the Captain appears to be for once miftaken j for hovtf could Monfieur de Boifguehenneu, in the beginning of 1772, leave an infcription which ^ The d is probably a contraSlion of the word Domino. com' two fuc- r water. Decern- nas. In went on country, 1 the ex- ifented a he had faftened is bottle ; follow- that we ited this ive been went on iay that id J but ;enj for , in the 1 which ommo. com^ i '] 'if 1 ill y ;!; f;!)! Pacific oceak. 23 5 s5 1 5- tdmnifc'rrii&rates i rfanfaiflion of the folibwing year? Captain Cook, as a memorial of our havin<| been in this harbour, wrote on the other fide o{ the parchmenr as follows : Naves Refolution et Difccivery de Rege Magn^c Britanni^e, Decemhris 1776. He then put it again into the bottle, accom- panied with a. filver tv^o^-penny piece of 1772, covered the mouth of the boalc with a leaden cap, and placed it the next morning in a pile of ftones, erected for that purpofe on an eminence, near the place, where it was firft found. Here Captain Cook difplayed the Britifh flag, and named the place Chriftmas Harbour^ it being on that fcftival we arrived in it. It is the firft inlet that we meet with on the fouth-eaft fide of Cape Francois, which forms the north fide of the harbour, and is the northern point of this land. The fituation fufficiently dif- tinguifhes it from any of the other inlets j and, to make it ftill more remarkable, its fouch point terminates in a high rock, perforated quite through, forming an appearance like the arch of a bridge. The head of the harbour lies open to on'v two points of the compafs, and thefe are covered by iflands in the offing, fo that a fea cannot fall in Vol. I.— n° I, tfi^ n 34 A VOYAGE TO THE % $ to hurt a fhip. It is high water here about ten o'clock at the full and change days, and the tide rifes about four feet. In the afternoon, Captain Cook, accompanied by Mr. King, his Second Lieutenant, went upon Cape Francois j expeffcing from this elevation to have had a view of the fea-coaft, and the iflands lying off it. But they found every diftant objed below them, hid in a thick fog. The land even with them, or of a greater height, was vifible enough, and appeared exceedingly naked and defolate j except fome hills to the fouthward, which were covered with fnow. When they re- turned to the fhip, they found her unmoored, and ready to put to fea; but we did not weigh anchor till five o'clock the next morning. ti CHAP. Pacific ocean. 35 C HA P. V. Depart from Chr'ifi'inas Harbour — Range alcng the Coaji — Cape Cumber land ^ Cumberland Bay, Point Pringhy Howe's Foreland, i^c. defer i bed — Re- markable Beds of Rock-tveed — Danger from Shoals — Arrival at Port Pal lifer — Cape George de- fcribed — Mr, AnderforCs Natural Hiftory of the Animals i Plants y iioil, &'c, of Kerguelen*s Land. ON the i9th of December we failed out of Chriftmas Harbour, (leering Ibuth-ealt along the coaft, with a fine breeze and clear weather. This was unexpe<5led, as, for fome time paft, fogs had prevailed more or Icfs every day. Though we kept the lead conftantly going, we fcldom ftruck ground with a line of fixty fathoms. We were off a promontory, which Captain Cook called Cape Cumberland, about feven or eight o'clock. It lies about a league and an half from the fouth point of Chriftmas Harbour j between them is a good bay. Off Cape Cumberland is a fmail ifland on the fummit of which is a rock, refembling a fentry-box, which name was given to the ifland on that account. A group of fmall iflands and rocks lies two miles farther to the eaftward : we failed between thefe and Sentry- box Ifland, the breadth of the channel being full D 2 a mile. \lA M j6 A VOYAGE TO THE a mile. We found no bottom with forty fathoms of line. After pafling through this channel, we faw a bay on the fouth-fide of Cape Cumberland, run- ning in three leagues to the weftward. It is formed by Cape Cumberland to the north^ and by a promontory to the fouth. Captain Cook named this promontory Point Pringle, as a com- pliment to Sir John Pringle, Prefidcnt of the Royal Society. The bottom of this bay was call- ed Cumberland Bay. The coaft is formed into a fifth bay, to the fouthward of Point Pringle. In this bay, which obtained the name of White Bay, arc fcveral Jefler bays or coves, which appeared to be Ihel- tercd from all winds. Off the fouth-point> fevc- ral rocks raife their heads above water, and pro- bably there are many others that do not. The land which firft opened off Cape Francois, in the diredion of fouth 53° eaft, we had kept on our larboard-bow, thinking it was an ifland, and that we Ihould difcover a paflage between that and the main j but we found it to be a pe- ninfula, joined to the reft of the coaft by a low ifthmus. The bay, formed by this peninfula. Captain Cook named Repulfe Bay. The nor- thern point of the peniniula was *iamed Howe's Foreland, in honour of Lord Howe. Drawing near ir, we obferved fome rocks and breakers not far from the north- weft part, and two iilands PACIFIC OCEAK. 37 iflands to the caftwsrd of it, which, at firft, ap- peared as one. We (leered between them and the foreland, and were in the middle of the chan- nel by twelve o'clock. The land of this fore- land or peninfula, is of a tolerable height, and of a hilly and rocky fubftance. The coaft is low, and almoft covered with fea-birds. We alfo faw fome feals upon the beaches. Having cleared the rocks and iflands before- mentioned, we perceived the whole fea before us to be chequered with large beds of rock-weed, which was fall to the bottom. There is often found a great depth of water upon fuch ihoals, and rOcks have, as often, raifed their heads al- moft to the furface of the water. It is always dangerous to fail over them, efpecially when there is no furge of the fea to difcover the dan- ger. We endeavoured to avoid the rocks, by fleering through the winding channels by which they were feparated. Though the lead was con- tinually going, we never ftruck ground with a line of fixty fathoms : this increafed the danger, as we could not anchor, however urgent the ne- ceflity might be. At length we difcovered a lurking rock, in the middle of one of thefe beds of weeds, and even with the furface of the fea. This was fufficiently alarming, to make us take every precaution to avoid danger. We were now about eight miles to the fouth- ward of Howe's Foreland, acrofs the mouth of a D 3 large !f4 3S A VOYAGE TO THE fi I 1'-^',, \iU Mi large bay. In this bay are feveral rocks, low iflands, and beds of fea-wcedj but there appear- ed to be winding channels between them. We were fo much einbarraned with thefe fhoals, that we hauled off to the eaflward, in hopes of extri- cating ourfelves from our difficulties; but this plunged us into greater, and we found it abfo- lutely neceHary to fecnre the fhips, if polTible, before night, efpecially as the weather was hazy, and a fog was apprehended. Seeing fome inlets to the fouth-weft, Captain Cook ordered Captain Clerke (the Difcovery drawing lefs water than the Refolution) to lead in for the ihore, which was immediately attempt- ed : after running over e edges of feveral Ihoals, on which was found from ten to twenty fathoms water, Captain Clerke made the fignal for hav- ing difcovered an harbour, in which we anchor- ed in fifteen fathoms water, about five o'clock in the evening. No fooner were the fhips fecured, than it be- gan to blow fo very ftrong, that we deemed it necefTary to ftrike top-gallant yards. The wea- ther, however, continued fair, and it prefently became clear, the wind having difperfed the fog that had fettled on the hills. As foon, therefore, as we had anchored. Captain Cook ordered two boats to be hoilled out ; in one of which he dif- patched Mr. Bligh, the Mafter, to furvey the upper part of the harbour, and look out for wood. -? A •» «• PACIFIC OCEAN. 39 He alfo defired Captain Gierke to fend his Maf- ter to found the channel, fouth of the fmall ifles, and went himfelf, in his other boat, acconnpanied by Mr. Gore and Mr. Bailey, and landed on the north point, to fee what difcovery could be made from thence. From an hill over the point, they had a view of the fea-coaft, as far as Howe's Foreland. Se- veral fmall iflands, rocks, and breakers, were fcattered along the coaft, and there appeared no better channel to get out of the harbour, than that by which they had entered it. While Captain Cook and Mr. Bailey were mak- ing thefe obfervations, Mr. Gore encompaflcd the hill, and joined them at the place where the boat was attending for them. There was nothing to obftrudt their walk, except fome craggy pre- cipices ; the country being, if pofllble, more bar- ren and defolate than that about Chriftmas Har- bour. There was neither food nor covering for cattle of any fort, and, if any had been left, they muft inevitably have perifhed. In the little cove, where their boat was waiting for them (which Captain Cook called Penguin Cove, from the immenfc numbers of thofe birds appearing there) is a fine river of frefh water, which we could ap- proach without difficulty. Some large feals, Ihags, and a few ducks were feen herci and Mr. Bailey had a glance of a very fmall land-bird, but it flew among the rocks, and they loft it. D 4 ' At 40 A VOYAGE TO THE im if At nine o'clock they got on board, and Mr. Bligh returned foon after. He reported that he had been four miles up the harbour j that its di- reflion was weft fou th- weft ; that its breadth near the fliips did not exceed a mile j that the found- ings were from thiriy-feven to ten fathoms j and that, having landed on both (horcs, he found the land barren and rocky, without a tree or Ihrub, or hardly any appearance of verdure. The next morning we weighed anchor, and put out to fea. This harbour was named Port Pal- lifer, in honour of Admiral Sir Hugh Pallifer. In getting out to fea, we, in general, fteered through the winding channels among the ftioals, though we fometimes ventured to run over fome of them, on which wc never found lefs than eigh- teen fathoms water j they would not, therefore, have been difcovered, had it not been for the fea- weed growing upon them. Having got three or four leagues from the coaft, wc found a clear fea, and, about nine o'clock, difcovered a round hill, like a fugar-loaf, bear- ing fouth-eaft, and a fm all ifland to the norths ward of it, diftant about four leagues. Captain Cook named the fugar-loaf hill Mount Campbell; 3t noon it bore fouth 47° v/eft ; a low point bore fouth-eaft, at the diftance of about twenty miles j and we were little more than two leagues from the Aore, The PACIFIC OCEAN. 4* The land here, in general, is low and level. The nnoiintains end about five leagues from the low point, leaving a great extent of low land, on which Mount Campbell is fituated. Thefc moun- tains fcemed to be compofed of naked rocks, whofc iummits were covered with fnow ; and nothing but Ilerility was to be feen in the vallics. At noon we perceiveci low land, opening off the low point juft mentioned, in the direction of fouth fouth-eaft. It proved to be the eaftcrn extremity of this land, and was named Cape Digby. Between Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, the fhore forms one great bay, extending feveral leagues to the fouth-weft. A vaft quan- tity of fea-weed grows over it, which feemed to be fuch as Mr. Banks diftinguifhed by the name o{ fucus giganteus. Though the ftem of this weed is not much thicker than a man's thumb, fome of it grows to the amazing length of lixty fathoms. At one o'clock, feeing a fmall bending in the coaft, on the north fide of Cape Digby, we fteer- cd for it, with an intention to anchor there j bur, being difappointed in our views, we puflied for- ward, in order to fee as much as poflible of the co-^^. before night. From Cape Digby, it trends nearly fouth-weft by fouth to alow point, to which Captain Cook gave the name of Point Charlotte, in honour of our amiable Queen, In 42 A VOYAGE TO H£ '';- In the direflion of fouth fouth-wcfl:, about fix leagues from Cape Digby, is a pretty high pro- je(5ling point, called the Prince of Wales's Fore- land} and fix leagues beyond that, in the fame dircdion, is the mofl fourhcrly point of the whole coaft, which, in honour of his Majefty, was dif- tinguilhed by the name of Cape George. ' Between Point Charlotte, and the Prince of Wales's Foreland, we dilcovered a deep inlet, which was called Royal Sound ; and, advancing to the fouth, v;e fav/ another inlet into the Royal Sound, on the Ibuth-weft fide of the Prince of Wales's Foreland. On the fouth-wefl fide of the Royal Sound, all the land to Cape George confifls of elevated hills, gradually rifing from the fea to a confiderabie height; they were naked and barren, and their jummits capt with fnow. Not a veltige of a tree or fhrub was to be {ten. Some of the low land about Cape Digby feemed to be covered with a green turf, but a confiderabie part of it appeared quite naked. Penguins, and other oceanic birds, were numerous on the beaches, and Ihags innu- merable kept flying about our (hips. * Defirous of getting the length of Cape George, Captain Cook continued to ftretch to the fouth, till between feven and eight o'clock; when, iee- ing no probability of accomplifiiing his defign, he took the advantage of the wind, which had fhifted to weft fouth-weft, (the direcflion in 8 which PACIFIC OCEAN. 43 which we wanted to go) and Hood awny from the coaft. Cape George now bore fouth $2° ^^^t dif- tant about kv^n leagues. We faw no land to the fouth of it, except a fmall iiland that lies off the pitch of the Cape 3 and a forth-weft fwell, which we met when we brought the Cape to bear in this diredion, almofl: convinced us that there was no more in that qi.iarter. The French difcovcrers imagined Cape Fran- cois to be the proje(5ling point of a fouthcrn con- tinent. The Engiifli have difcovered that no fuch continent exifts, and that the land in quel- tion is an iQand of fmall extent; which, from its fterility, might properly be called the Ifland of Defolation ; but Captain Cook was unwilling to rob Monfieur de Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name. Mr. Andcrfon, who, during the fliort time we lay in Chriftmas Harbour, loft no opportunity of fearciiing the country in every diredion, relates the following particulars. No place, (fays he) hitherto difcovered in eithei: hemifphere, affords fo fcanty a field for the na- turalift as thisf.:!ril fpot. Some verdure, indeed, appeared, when at a fmall diftance from the fhore, which might raife the expectation of meeting with a little herbage; but all this lively appearance was occafioned by one fmall plant, refembling faxifrage, which grew up the hills in large fpead- |:-*'-|i |r^: i.'As r'l] m^^ 4+ A VOYAGE TO THE ' ') ii i i'i ^ 1 1 fl ij;: l< ■ ing tufts, on a kind of rotten turf, which, if dried, might ferve for fuel, and was the only thing fecn here that could poiTibly be applied to that purpofe. Another plant, which grew to near the height of two feet, was pretty plentifully fcattered ?ibout the boggy declivities : it had the appearance of a fnmall cabbage when it was (hot into feeds. It had the watery acrid tafte of the antifcorbutic plants, though it materially differed from the whole tribe. When eaten raw, it was not unlike the New-Zea- land fcurvy-grafs; but when boiled, it acquired a rank flavour. At this time, none of its feeds were ripe enough to be brought home, and intro- duced into our Engiifli kitchen-gardens. Near the brooks and boggy places were found two other fmall plants, which were eaten as fallad ; the one like garden crefTes, and very hot; and the other very mild : the latter is a curiofity, hav- ing not only male and female, but alfo androgy- nus plants. Some coarfe grafs grew pretty plentifully in a few fmall fpots near the harbour, which was cut down for our cattle. In fhort, the whole cata- logue of plants did not exceed eighteen," including a beautiful fpecies of lichen, and feveral forts of mofs. Nor was there the appearance of a tree or fhrub in the whole country. Among the animals, the moft confidcrable were fcals, which were diftinguifhed by the name of fca- PACIFIC OCEAN. fe£t- bears ; being the fort that are called the urfine' feal. They come on fhore to repofe and breed. At that time they were fhf dding their hair, and fo remarkably tame, that there was no difRculty in killing them. No other quadruped was feen ; but a great number of oceanic birds, as ducks, Ihags, petrels, &c. The ducks were fomewhat like a widgeon, both in fize and figure j a confiderable number ot* them were killed and eaten : they were excellent food, and had not the leafl filhy rafte. The Cape petrel, the fmall blue one, and the fmall black one, or Mother Carey's chicken, were not in plenty here; but another fort, which is the largeft of the petrels, and called by the fca- •mea Mother Carey's goofe, is found in abun- dance. This petrel is as large as an albatrofs, and is carnivorous, feeding on the dead carcaffea offeais, birds, &c. The grcatell number of birds here were pen- guins, which confitt of three forts. The head of the largeft is black, the upper part of the body of a leaden -grey, the under parr, white, znd the fett black J two broad ftripes of fine yellow de- fcend from the head to the breall:; the bill is of a reddifli colour, and longer than in the other forrs. The fecond fort is about half the fizc of the for« mer. It is of a blackifh grey on the upper part: of the body, ar>d has a white fpot on. the uppei' part l\ 'U ^ k'f^i 46 A VOYACE 10 THE :| M' part of the head. The bill and ktt are yellowifh* In the third fort, the upper part of the body and throat arc black, the reft white, except the top of the head, which is ornamented with a fine yellow arch, which it can ered as two crcfls. The i'hags here were of two forts, viz. the lefTer corvorant, or water- crow, and another with a blackilh back and a white belly. The fea- fwallow, the tern, the common fea-gull, and the Port Egmont hen, were alfo found here. Large flocks of a fingular kind of white bird flew about here, having the bafe of the bill co- vered with a horny criill. It had a black bill and "white feet, was fomewhat larger than a pigeon, and the fiefh tafted like than of a duck. The feine was once hauled, when we found a few fifh about the fize of a fmall haddock. The only fliell-fiih we faw here, were a few limpets and mufcles.. Many of the hills, notwithi'landlng they were of a moderate height, were at that time covered with (how, though anfwering to our June. It is rcafonable to imagine that rain muii: be very fre- quent here, as well from the marks of large tor- rents having lulhed down, as from the appearance of the country, which.^ even on the hilis, was a continued bog or fwamp. ' ' . -' . The rocks confill: principally of a dark blue and v>^ ^ 54 A VOYACfe TO THE drefles to them, and made liberal offers, but without effecb. In the afternoon Captain Cook went again on fliorcj and found the grafs-cutters on Penguin Ifland, where they had met with excellent grafs in the greateft abundance. The different parties Laboured hard till the evening, and then, having provided a fufHcient quantity of what was molt wanted, returned on board. During our continuance in Van Diemen*s Land, we had either light airs from the eaft, or calms : we therefore loft little or no time by touching on this coad. This land was difcovered in Novem- ber 1 642, by Tafman, who gave it the name of Van Diemen's Land. Captain Furneaux touched at it in March 1773. It is the fouthern point of New Holland, which is by far the largefl: ifland in the known world, and almoft deferves the name of a continent. The land is diverfiBed with hills and vallies, and well wooded. The only wind to which Adventure Bay is expofed, is the north-eaftj and, upon the whole, this may be confidered as a very fafe road. Its latitude is 43' 21' 20'' fouth, and its longitude 147° 29' eaft. Mr. Anderfon, furgeon of the Refolution, cm- ployed Himfclf in examining the country during our continuance in Adventure Bay. His remarks on the inhabitants and their language, and his account of the natural productions of the coun- try^ arc to the followihg purport. There is a beau- # rACIFIC 0CEAF7* 55 heautiful Tandy beach, about two miles long, at the bottom of Adventure Bay, formed to all ap- pearance by the particles which the fea waflies from a fine white fand-ftone. This beach is very ivell adapted for haulir.g a feine. Behind it is a plain, with a brackilh lake, out of which we caught, by angling, fome bream and trout. The parts adjoining the bay ^re rpoftly hilly, and are an entire foreft of tall trees, rendered almoft im- pafTable by brakes of fern, (hrubs, (Sec. T^e foil on the flat land, and on the lower part pf the hills, is fandy, or confifts of a yellowifli earth, and in fome parts of a reddifh clayj but further up the hills, it is of a grey tough call. This country, upon the whole, bears many mark3 of being very dry, and the heat appears to be grea(. No mineral bodies, nor ftones of any other kiild than the white fand-ftone, were obferved by us ; nor could we find any vegetables that afforded fubfiftence for man. The foreft-tfces are all of one kind, and generally quite ftraight : tl^ey bear clufters of fmall white flowers. The principal plants wc obferved were wood-forrej, nrjilk-wort, cudweed, bell-flower, gladiolus, famphire, and feveral kinds of fern. The only quadruped \sfc faw diftinftly was a fpecies of opoffun^, ^bqnt twice the fize of a large rat. 7'he kangoprop, found further northward in New Holland^ may alfo be fuppofed to inhabit here, as fome of the Inhabitants had pieces of the (kin of chat animal. E 4 TThc ^ v^' %f- S6 A VOYAGE TO Tfti :% ■ijf The principal forts of birds in the woods arc brown hawks or eaglts, crows, large pigeons^ yel- lowifh paroquets, and a fpecies which we called fnetatllla tynnia^ from the beautiful azure colour of its head and neck. On the Ihore were fcveral gulls, black oyfter-catchers, or fea«>pies, and plo- vers of a (lone-colour. We obfcrved in the woods fome blackifh fnakes that were pretty large, and we killed a lizard which was fifteen inches long and fiX round, beautifully clouded with yellow and black. Among a variety of fifh We caught fome large rays, nurfes, leather-jackets, bream, foles, floun- ders, gurnards, and elephant~fi(h ; beiides a fort >^hich ^e did not reco!left to have feen before, and which partakes of the nature both of a round and a flat fifli. Upon the rocks are mufcles and other Ihell-filh j and upon the beach we found fome pretty Medufa's heads. The moft trouble- ftme infefti we met with were the muliquitots^ and a lar^c hltck ant, whofe bite inflrft$ extreme pain. The inhabitants ftemed miW and cterarful, with little of tha( wild appearance that favages in general have. They are almoft totally devoid of perfonal adlivHy or genius, and are nearly upon a par with the wretched natives of Terra del Fuego. They difplay, however, fome contriv- ance in their method of cutting their arms and bodjfcs iti lines oFdifFeirnt dirtftions, raifcd above 4 the :4 ^ Wljt- n kftiiMi ammmtmt, 'M i fe ii - iii '' - ^AmtMmt II ■nil / # m PACIFIC OCIAN* 57 9^ « r; the furface of the (kin. Their indifference for our prefencs, their general ixiatoention, and want of curiofity, were very remarkable, and teftified no acutenefs of underftamding. Their com- plexion is a dull black, which they fometimes heighten by fmutting their bodies, as we fup- pofed, from their leaving a mark behind on any clean fubftance. Their hair is perfedlly woolly, and is clotted with greaic and red ochre, like that of the Hottentots. Their nofes are broad and full, and the lower part of the face projefts con- fideraljly. Their eyts arc of a moderate fize, and though they are not very quick or piercing, they give the countenance a frank, chearful, and pleafing caft. Their teeth are not very white, nor well fet, and their mouths are too wide : they wear their beards long, and clotted with paint. Th«y are, upon the whole, well proportioned, though their belly is rather protuberant. Their favourite attitude is to ftand with one fide for- ward, and one hand grafping, acrofs the back, the oppofitc arm, which, on this occafion, hangs, down by the fide that projefts. Near the fhore in the bay, we obferved fome wretched conftru6tions of fticks covered with bark 5 but theft fcemed to have been only tem- porary, and th*y had converted many of their largeft trees into more comfbrtabje and commo- dious habitations. The trunks of thefe were hol- Jowcd out to the height of fix or fcven feet, by means f Tjl ▲ VOYAGE TO THE means of fire. That they fometimcs dwell in them, was manifeft, from their hearths in the middle made of clay, round which four or five perfons might fit. Thefe places of fhelter are rendered durable, by their leaving one fide of the tree (bund, fo that it continues growing with great luxuriance. That the natives of Van Diemen's Land ori- ginate from the fame flock with thofe wh6 in* habit the, northern parts of New Holland, feems evident. Though they differ in many refpeAs, their difTimilaricy may be reafonably accounted for, from the united confiderations of diftance of place, length of time, total feparatipn^ and di^ verfity of climate. As the inhabitants of New Holland feem all to have fprung from one common fource, there is nothing very peculiar in them; for they greatly refemble the favages of the idands of Tanna and Manicola. There is even fome reafon for fup- pofing, that they may originally have coniC from the fame place with all the natives of the Pacific Ocean : for, of about ten words which we found means to get from them, that which is ufed to exprefs cold^ is very Hmilar to that of New- Zealand and Otaheite ; the firf^ being mallareede, the fccond makkaWeede^ and the third ma*reede. The remainder of our fcanty vocabulary of Va^i Diemen's Land is as follows, viz. «i Quadne» PACIFIC OCEAN* S9 Quadne, curiofities, and women ; the two firft of which were fpcedily ai^pofed of, but the latter did not come to a good market, as our crew had conceived a diflike to theiTi. Cap- tain Cook obferves upon this occafion, that he connived at a connection with women, bccaufc he could not prevent itj but that he never en- couraged it, becaufe he dreaded its confequences. Among our occafional vifitors was a chief called Kahoora, who headed the party that cut off Cap- tain Furneaux's people. He was far from being beloved by his countrymen, fome of whom even importuned Captain Cook to kill him, at the fame time exprefling their difapprobation of him in the fevereft terms. A ftriking proof of the divifions that prevail among thefe people occur- red to us ', for the inhabitants of each village, by turns, folicited our Commodore to deftroy the other. - 1^ Captain i mm* h M. 94 A VOYAGE TO THE - Captain Cook, on the 15th, went in a boat to iearch for grafs, and vifited the hippah, or forti- fied village, at the fouth-weft point of the ifland of Motuara. He obferved no inhabitants at this village, though dierc were evident marks of its having been lately occupied, the houfes and pali- iades being in a date of good repair. Not the fmalleft veftige reniained of the £ngli(h garden^ feeds which had been planted $t this hippab in 1773, during Captain Cook's fecond voyage. They had probably been all rooted out to 9¥ike room for buildings; for, at the other g^^^le^^ then planted, we found radifhes, onion$, jt^eksj cabbages, purilain, potatoes, &€. Though the natives of New-Zealand are fond of the laft- mentioned root, they had not planted s fingle one, much lefs any of th^ other aiticles we had introduced among them. Early in thejnorning of the i6th, the CajJtaios Cook and Clerke, and federal of the oHicers and failors, accompanied by Omai and two Nenr-^ Zealanders, fet out, in five boats, to co)leACIFrC OCEAN, 67 boat, fome faid, that it had been pulled to pieces and burnt; while others aflerted, that it had been carried off by a party of ftrangers. Our party continued at Grafs Cove till the evenine:, and then embarked to return to the fhips. They had fcarcely left the fhore, when the wind began to blow violently at north-weft, fo that it was not without great difficulty that they could reach the fhips, where fome of the boats did not arrive till the next morning j and it was very fortunate that they got on board then, for foon afterwards a perfed ftorm arofe. To- vyards the evening, however, the wind veering to the eaft, brought on fair weather. On Tuefday the 1 8th, Pedro and his whole farhily came to rcfide near us. The proper name of this chief was Matahouahi but fome of Captain Cook's people had given him the appellation of Pedro in a former voyage. On the 20th we had another ftorm, of lefs duration than the former, but more violent.; in confequenceof which, both our fhips ftruck their yards and top-mafls. Thefe tempefts are frequent here ; and the nearer the fhore, the more fenfible are their effedls. On Friday the 21ft, a tribe or family pf about thirty perfons came from the upper part of the found to vifit us. Their chief was named To» maiongeauooranuc : he was about the age of forty-five, and had a frank, cheerful countenance; *nd, indeed, the reft of his tribe were, upon the F 2 whole. (' ''9 6S A VOYAGE TO TH« f f I J I'll iVhole, the handfonrteft of all the Ncw-Zealandcrs that Captain Cook had ever feen. By this time upwards of two-thirds of the natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound had fettled near us, numbers of whorn daily reforted to the fhfps, and our en- campment on fliore J but the latter was moft fre- quented, during the time when our people there were making feal blubber J for the favages were fo.fond of train oil, that they relilhed the very dregs of the cafks, and fkimmings of the kettle, and confidered the pure (linking oil as a moft de- lightful feaft. When we had procured a competent fupply of hay, wood, and water, we ftruck our tents, and the next morning, which was the 24th, weighed Cut of the Cove. But the wind not being fo fair as we could have wifhed, we were obliged to caft anchor again near the Ifle of Motuara. "While 1\'C were getting under fail, Tomatongeauooranuc, Matahouah, and many others of the natives, came to take leave of us. Thefe two chiefs hav- ing requefted Captain Cook to prefent them with fomc hogs and goats, he gave to Tomatongeau- ooranuc two pigs, a boar, and a fow; and to Matahouah two goats, a male and female, after they had pfomifed not to deftroy them. As for the animals, whicfh Captain Furneaux had left heref Captain Cook was now told, that they were all dead i but he was afterwards informed, by the two New-Zealand youths who went away with «8, If t iH' •PACIFIC OCEAM, 69 US, thatTiratou, a popular chief, hadinhispof- feflion many cocks and hens, befides a low. Before we had been long at anchor near Mo- tuara, feveral canoes, filled with natives, came towards us, and carried on a briik trade with them for the cyriofities of this place. In one of thefe canoes was Kahoora, whom Omai imme- diately pointed out to Captain Cook, and foli- cited him to (hoot that chief; he alio threatened to be hin[?felf his executioner, if he Ihould ever prefume to pay us another vifir. The,fc menaces of Omai had (o little influence upon Kahoora, that he returned to us'the next morning, accom- panied with his whole family. Omai, having obtained Captain Cook's permifllon to a(k him « to ppme on board, introduced him into the cabin, -faying, f There is Kahopra j difpatch hipni." But, fearing perhaps that he ihould be called upon to put his former threats in execution, he inftantly retired. He foon, however, returned j and per- ceiving that the chief was unhurt, he earneftly remonftrated to Captain Cook on the fubje6l, faying, that if a man killed another in England, he was hanged for it j but that Kahoora had killed fen, and therefore juftly deferved death. Thefe arguments, however plaufible, had no weight with our Commodore, who defired Omai to a(k the New-Zealand chief, why he had deftroyed Captain Furneaux's people? Kahoora, confound- ed ^t thi§ queftion, hung down his head, folded 70 A VOYAGE TO THE ^1 his arms, and fcemed in cxpeftation of imme- diate death: but, as foon as he was alTured of fafety, he became chearful. He appeared, how- ever, unwilling to anfwer the queftion which had been put to him, till after repeated promifes that no violence (hould be offered to him. He then ventured to inform us, that one of the natives having brought a (lone hatchet for the purpofe of traffic, the perfon to whom it was ofFered took it, and refufed either to return it, or give any thing in exchange; upon which the owner of it feizcd fomc bread by way of equivalent; and this gave rife to the quarrel that enfued. He alfo mentioned, that he himfelf, during the dif- turbance, had a narrow efcape; for a mufquet was levelled at him, which he found means td avoid by fkulking behind the boatj and another man, who happened to ftand clofe to him, was fhot dead: upon which Kahoora attacked Mr, Rowc, the officer who commanded the parry, who defended himfelf with his hanger, with which he gave the chief a wound in his arm, till he was overpowered by fuperiority of numbers. Mr. Burney, whom Captain Furneaux difpatched the next day with an armed party in fciarch of his people who were nriifTing, had, upon difcovcririg ihe melancholy proofs of this cataftfophe, fired feveral vollies among the natives who were ftiU on the fpot, and were probably partaking of the ^orrid banauet of human flelh. It was reafon- able FA C 1 FI C OCEAN, 7« able to fuppofe that this firing was not ineffec- tual i but upon enquiry it appeared, that not a fingle perfon had been killed, or even hurt, by the [hot which Mr. Burney's people had difcharged. Moft of the natives we had met with, expcded that Captain Cook would take vengeance on Ka*- hoora for his concern in the maflacre i and nvany of them not only wilhcd it, but tcftified their furprife at the Captain's forbearance and mode- ration. As the chief mud have known this, ic was a matter of aljtonifhment that he fo often put himfelf in the power of our Comnnodore. His two laft vifits, in particular, were made un- der fuch circumftances, that' he could not have flattered himfelf with a profpedt of efcaping, had the Captain been inclined p detain him: and yet, when his firft fears, on being queftioned, had fubfided, fo far was he from entertaining uneafy fenfations, that, on feeing in the cabin a portrait of a New-Zealander, he defired that his own like^- nefs might be taken, and fat till Mr. Webber had finiflied his portrait, without the fmalleft token of impatience. Captain Cook admired liis cou- rage, and was pleafcd with the confidence which |ie repofed in him ; for he placed his whole fafety in the uniform declarations of the Captain, that he had always been a friend to the natives, and would continue in the fame fentiments rill they gave him rcafon to behave otherwife: that he ^oM think no more of their barbaroqs treat- I^ 4 mcnt »« A VOYAGE TO THI ill mcnt of our countrymen, as that tranfadbion had happened long ago; but that, if they (hould ever venture to make a- fecond attempt of that kind, they might reft aflured of meeting with an adequate punifhmenf. Before our arrival in New-Zealand, Omai had cxprefled a defire of taking one of the natives with him to his own country. He foon had an opportunity of gratifying his inclination, for a youth named Taweiharooa, the only fon of a deceafed chief, offered to accompany him, and took up his refidence on board. ' Captain Cook caufed it to be made known to him and all his friends, that if the youth departed with us, he would never return. This declaration, however, had no effed. The day before we quitted the Cove, Tiratoiitou, his mother, came to receive her laft prefent from Omaii and the fame even- ing (he and her fon parted, with all the marks of the tendereft affeftion. But fhe faid (he would weep no more, and faithfully kept her word; for the next morning, when Ihe returned to take her laft farewell of Taweiharooa, fhe was quite chear- ful all the time fhe remained on board, and de- parted with great unconcern. A boy of about ten years of age accompanied Taweiharooa as a fervant ; his name was Kokoa. He was prefent^ ed to Captain Cook by his own father, who part- ed with him with fuch indifference, as to ftrip him, and leave him entirely naked. The Cap- tain PACIFIC OCEAM. 73 tain having in vain endeavoured to convince thefe people of the great improbability of thefe youths ever returning home, at length confented to their going. The inhabitants of New-Zealand fcem to live under continual apprehcnfions of being deftroyed by each other; moft of their tribes having, as they think, fuftained injuries from fome other tribe, which they are ever eager to revenge : and it is not improbable, that the defire of a good meal is frequently a great incitement. They ge^ nerally Ileal upon the adverfe party in the night, and if they chance to find them unguarded, which is feldom the cafe, they kill every one without diilindion, without fparing even the wo- men arid children : when they have completed the inhuman maflacre, they either gorge them- felves on the fpot, or carry off as many dead bo- dies as they can, and feaft on them at home, with the moft horrid afts of brutality. If they are diicovered before they have time to execute their fanguinary purpofe, they ufually fteal ofF again, and fometimes they are purfued and attacked by the adverfe party> in their turn. They, never give quarter, or take prifoners, fo that the yan- quifhed rnufl truft to flight alone for &fety. From this ftate of perpetual hoftility, and this deftrudtive mode of carrying it on, a New-Zea- lander derives fuch habitual vigilance and cir^ cumlpefiion, that he is fcarce ever off his guard : * and. 74 A VOYAGE TO THE ^1 and, indeed, thefc people have the mod power- ful motives to be vigilant, as the prefcrvation of both foul and body depends on it: for it is a part of their creed, that the foul of the man whofe flefh is devoured by his enemies, is condemned to an inceflant fire j while the foul of him whofe body has been rcfcued from thofe that flew him, as well as the fouls of thofe who die a natural death, afcend to the manfions of the gods. Cap- tain Cook having alked them, whether they eat the flelh of fuch friends as had loft their lives in war, but whofe bodies had been prevented from falling into the enemy*s hands, they anfwercd in the negative, and exprelTed their abhorrence of the idea. Their ordinary method of dtfpofing of their dead is to commit their bodies to the earth j but when they have more of their fiain enemies than they can conveniently eat, they throw them into the fea. There are no morals y or other places of public worlhip among them; but they have priefts, who pray to the gods for the fuccefs of their temporal affairs. The principles of their fcligion, of which we l^now but little,, i^r€ ftrong- Jy inftiiled into them from their infancy, Wc obferved a remarkable inflance of this in a youth, who abftained from eating during the greatefi part of the day, merely on account of his hair be- ing cut, though every method was pradifed that cofxUl induce him to change his refolutton. He PACIFIC OCBAV, 75 faid that the eatooa^ or deity, would kill him if he cat any thing on that day. Towards the even- ing, however, his rcligioi o fcruplcs gave way to the importunate cravings of appetite, and he cat, though fparingly. Notwithftanding the divided ftate in which thefe people live, travelling ftrangers, whofe de- figns are honourable, are well received and enter- tained i but it is expedbed that they will remain no longer than their bufinefs requires. It is thus that a trade for green talc, which they call poe-' nammoo, is carried on. They informed us, that none of this flone is to be found, except at a place which bears its name, near the head of Queen Charlotte's Sound. We were told many fabulous and improbable flories concerning this (lone, one of which is, that it is originally a fiOi, which they ftrike with a gig in the water, and having tied a rope to it, drag it to the fhore, to which they faften it, and it afterwards hardens into a ftone. As it is fifhed out of a large lake, it is probable that it may be brought from the moun- tains, and depofited in the water, by means of the torrents. This lake is called by the inhabit tants Tavai Poenammoot or the water of green talc. The New»Zealanders have adopted polygamy amongft them; and it is common iot one man to have two or three wives. The women are ripe fpr marriage at an early ages and thofe who are 4 unmarried. \i III! 76 A VOYAGE TO THE unmarried, find difficulty in procuring fubfift-r ance. Thefe people feem perfeftly contented with the fmall degree of knowledge they poflcfs, for they make no attempts to improve it. They are not remarkably curious, nor do new objefts ftrike them with much furprife, for they fcarce fi^ their attention for a moment. Omai, indeed, being a great favourite with them, would fomctimes atr tract: a circle about him ; but. they liftened to his fpeeches with very little eagerncfs. - On our enquiring of Taweiharooa, how many fhips, refembling ours, had ever arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, or in its neighbourhood, he gave us an account of one entirely unknown to us. This vcflel, he faid, had put into a harbour on the north-rweft coaft of Teerawitte, a. few years before Captain Cook arrived in the' Sound in the Endeavour. He further jnfdrrned us, that the Captain of her, during his continuance here, had cohabited with a female of the country, who had borne him a fon that was (lill living. He alfp mentioned, that this (hip- firft introduced the ve- nereal difeafe among the natives of New-Zealand. This dreadful diforder i$ now but two common among them. The only i^ethod they put in prafticc as a remedy, is to give the patient the ijfe of a kind of hot bath, produced by the fteam of certain green plants placed over hot flones. Taweiharooa*^ I^ACinC OCEAN. 77 Taweiharooa*s intelligence induced us to be- lieve, that a ihip had really been at Teerawittc previous to Captain Cook's arrival in the En- deavour, as it correfponded with what the Cap- tain had formerly heard -, for, towards the latter end of 1773, fome of the natives informed hirti of a (hip's having put into a port on the coaft of Teerawittee. We had another piece of information from Taweiharooa, importing that there are here fnakes and lizards of an enormous fize. The latter were defcribed by him as being eight feet long, and equal to a man's body in circumference. He faid that they burrow in the ground j ^!iat they fometimes feizc and devour men, and are killed by making fires at the mouths of their holes. We could not mifunderftand him with refpe6t to the animal j for, in order to fliew us what he meant, he drew, with his own hand, very good reprefentations of a lizard and fnake on a piece of paper* Though much has been faid concerning this country and its'- inhabitants, in the accounts of Captain Cook's two former voyages, yet the re- marks of Mr. Anderfon, being the refult of ac- curate obfervation, muft not be confidered as al- together fuperfluous. The reader will find them in the fucceeding chapter. The longitude of Ship-cove, by lunar obfcrva- tions, is 174** 25' 15" eafl; its latitude 410 6' fouth. CHAP. ft A VOYAGE TO THE CHAP. VIII. The Country near ^een Charlotte* s Sound de^ Jcrihed — The Fertility of the Soil — Temperature of the Climate — Rain and Winds — Plants — Birds '—Fijh — Animals — Defcription of the Perjons of the Inhabit attts — Drefs — Ornaments — Buildings '—Canoes or Boats — Foody and Method of Cookery ^Arts — Weapons — Horrid Cruelty to their Ene- • ifties, whofe Bodies they mangle and eat — Va- rious other Cujloms. ABOUT Queen Charlotte's Sound the land is uncommonly mountainous, rifing im- mediately from the fea into large hills. At re- mote diftances are vallies, terminating each to- wards the fea in a fmall cove, with a pebbly or fandy beach ; behind which are flat places, where the natives ufually build their huts. This fitua- tion is the more convenient, as a brook of fine water runs through every cove, and empties itfelf into the fea. The bafes of thcfe mountains, towards the fhore, are conftituted of a brittle yellowifh fand-ftone, which acquires a blueilh caft where it is laved by the fea. At fbme places it runs in h izontal, and, at others, in oblique ftrata. The mould or -foil by which it is covered refembleii marie, and isj in general, a foot or two in thick nefs. The PACIFIC OCEA>r, 79 The luxuriant growth of the produdlions here, fufficiently indicates the quality of the foil. The hills, except a few towards the fea, are one con- tinued foreft of lofty trees, flourifhing with fuch uncommon vigour, as to afford an augutt pro- fpe(5t to the admirers of the fublime and beautiful works of nature. This extraordinary ftrength in vegetation is, doubtlcfs, greatly affifted by the agreeable tem- perature of the climate j for, at this time, though anfwering to our month of Auguft, the weather was not fo warm as to be difagreeable ; nor did it raife the thermometer higher than 66°. The win- ter alfo feems equally mild with refpecl to cold; for in the month which correfponds to our De- cember, the mercury was never lower than 48% the trees at the fame time retaining their verdure, as if in the height of fummer. It is fuppofed their foliage remains, till pulhed off in fpring by the fucceeding leaves. Though the weather is generally good, it is fometimcs windy, with heavy rain ; which, how- ever, is nevev excefiive, and does not laft above a day. In fhort, this would be one of the fineft countries upon earth, were it not fo extremely hilly } which, fuppofing the woods to be cleared away, would leave it lefs proper for pafturage than Bat land ; and infinitely lefs fo for cultiva- tion, which could never be effefted here by the plough. The to A VOYAGE TO THE 8? The large trees on the hills are principally of two forts. One of them, of the fize of our largeft firs, grows nearly after their manner. This fup- plied the place of fpruce in making beer; which we did, with a decoftion of its leaves fermented with fugar or treacle ; and this liquor was acknow- ledged to be little inferior to American fpruce- bcer. The other fort of tree is like a maple, and often grows very large, but is fit only for fuel j the wood of that, and of the preceding, being too heavy for mafls, yards, &c. A greater variety of trees grow on the flats be- hind the beaches : two of thefe bear a kind of plum, of the fize of prunes j the one, which is yellow, is called karraca, and the other, which is black, called maitao -, but neither of them had a pleafant tafle, though eaten both by our people and the natives. On the eminences which jut out into the fea, grows a fpecies of philadelphus, and a tree bear- ing fiowcrs almofliike myrtle. We ufed the leaves of the philadelphus as tea, and found them an excellent fubftitute for the orier^tal fort. A kind of wild celery, which grows plentifully in almod: every cove, may be reckoned among the plants that were ufeful to us j ^nd another that we ufed to call fcurvy-grafs. Both forts were boiled daily with wheat groxind in a mill, for the people's breakfaft, and with their peafe-foup for dinner. Sometimes alfo they were ufed as fall ad, or FACIPIC OCEAN* If or dreflcd as greens. In all which ways they are excellent i ^nd, together with the fi(h, with which we were amply fupplicd, they formed a ipoft defirable refrcfhment. The known kinds of plants to be found here are bindweed, night-fliade, nettles, a fhrubby fpcedwell, fow-thiftles, virgin's bower, vanelloe, French willow, euphorbia, crane's-bill, cud- weed, rufhes, bulrufhes, flax, all-heal, American night-fhade, knot-grafs, brambles, eye-bright, and groundfel ; but the fpecies of each are dif* fcrent frorr* any we have in Europe. There are a great number of other plants, but one in particular deferves to be noticed here, as the garments of the natives are made from it. A fine filky flax is produced from it, fupcrior in appearance to any thing we have in this country, and, perhaps, as fl:rong. It grows in all places near the Tea, and fometimes a confiderable way up the hills, in bunches or tufts, bearing yellowifli flowers on a long (talk. It is remarkable, that the greateft part of the trees and plants were of the berry-bearing kind 5 of which, and other feeds, Mr. Anderfon brought away about thirty diflerent forts. • The birds, of which there is a tolerable good fl:ock, are almoft entirely peculiar to the place. It would be difficult and fatiguing to follow them, on account of the quantity of underwood, and the climbing plants j yet any perfon, by conti- Vol. I.— n° 2. nuing a A VOYAGE TO THE It"' I nuing in one place, may (hoot as many in a day as would fcrve feven or eight pcrfons. The prin- cipal kinds are large brown parrots, with grey heads, green parroquets, large wood -pigeons, and two forts of cuckoos. A grofs-beak, about the fize of a thrufli, is frequent ; as is alfo a fmall green bird, which is almoft the only mufical one to be found here ; but his melody is fo fweet, and his notes fo varied, that any one would ima- gine himfelf furrounded by a hundred different forts of birds, when thd little warbler is exerting himfelf. From this circumftance it was named the mocking-bird. There are alfo three or four forts of fmaller birds, and, among the rocks, are found black fea-pies with red bills, and crefted ihags of a leaden colour. About the fliore, there are a few fea gulls, fome blue herons, wild ducks, plovers, and fome fand-larks. A fnipe was ihoc here, which differs but little from that of Europe. Moft of the fifti we caught by the feine were elephant-fifh, mullets, foles> and flounders ; . but the natives fupplied us with a fort of fea-bream, large conger-eels, and a filh of five or fix pounds weight, called a mogge by the natives. With a hook and line we caught a blackifh fifii, called cole-fifli by the feamen, but differing greatly from thaJt of the fame name in Europe. We alfo got a fort of fmall falmon, fkate, gurnards, and nurfcs. The natives fometimes furnifhed us with hake, paracutasj parrot-fifh^ a fortofmac- - kareJ, PACIFIC OCEAN.. s 8j karel, and leather jackets; befides another, which IS extremely fcarce, of the figure of a dolphin, a black colour, and ftrong bony jaws. Thefe, in general, are excellent to eat; but the fmall faU mon, colc-fifh, and mogge, are fuperior to the others. Great quantities of excellent mufcles inhabit among the rocks ; one fort of which exceeds a foot in length^ Many cockles are found buried in the fand of the fmall beaches ; and, in fome places, oyfters, which, though very fmall, have a good flavour. There are alfo perriwincles, lim- pets, wilks, fca-eggs, itar-fifh, and fome beau- tiful fea-ears, many of which are peculiar to the place. The natives alfo furnilhed us with fome excellent cray-fifli. Infefts here are not very numerous : we faw fome butterflies, two forts of dragon-flies, fome fmall grafshoppers, fevcral forts of fpiders, Yome black ants, and fcorpion flies innumerable, with whofe chirping the woods refounded. The fand- fly, which is the only noxious one, is very nu- merous here, and is almoft as difagreeable as the mufquitoe. The only reptiles we faw here, were two or three forts of inoffcnfive lizards. In this extenfive land, it is remarkable that there fliould not even be the traces of any qua- druped, except a few rats, and a kind of fox dogj which is kept by the natives as a domeftic animal. G 2 They «4 A VOYAGE TO THE They have not any mineral defcrving notice, but a green jafper or ferpent ftone, of which the tools and ornaments of the inhabitants are made. This is held in high eftimation among them ; and they entertain fome fuperflitious notions about the mode of its generation, which we could not comprehend : they fay it is taken from a large river far to the fouthward ; it is difpofcd in the earth in detached pieces like flints, and, like them, the edges are covered with a whitifli cruft. The natives, in general, arc not fo well form- ed, efpecially about the limbs, as the Europeans^ nor do they exceed them in ftature. Their fitting fo much on their hams, and being deprived, by the mountainous difpofltion of the country, of uHng that kind of exercife which would render the body ftraight and well-proportioned, is pro- bably the occalion of the want of due proportion. Many of them, indeed, are perfcftly formed and fome are very large boned and mufcular ; but very few among them were corpulent. Their features are various, fome refembling Europeans, and their colour is of different cafls, from a deepifh black to an olive or yellowifh tinge. In general, however, their faces are round, their lips rather full, and their nofes, (though not flat) large towards the point. An aquiline nofe was not to be feen among them : their eyes arc large, and their teeth are commonly broad, whitCi and regular. The hair^ in general, is black, PACIFIC OCEAN. *5 black, ftrong, and ftraighc ; it is commonly cue ihort OR the hinder part, and the reft tied on the crown of the head. Some, indeed, have brown hair, and others a fort that is naturally difpofed to curl. The countenance of the young is gene- rally free and open ; but, in many of the men, < it has a ferious or fullen cad. The men are larger than the women ; and the latter are not diftin- guifhed by peculiar graces, either of form <^ features. Both fexes are cloathed alike ; they have a gar- ment, made of the filky flax already mentioned, about five feet in length, and four in breadth. This appears to be their principal manufafture, which is performed by knotting. Two corners of this garment pafs over the fhoulders, and they fallen it on the brcaft with that which covers the body : it is again faflened about the belly with a girdle made of mat. Sometimes they cover it with dog-lkin or large feathers. Many of them wear coats over this garment, extending from the fhoulders to the heels. The moft common co- vering, however, is a quantity of the fedgy plant above-mentioned, badly manufadured, fattened to a firing, and thrown over the fhoulders, whence it falls down on all fides to the middle of the thighs. When they fat down in this habit, they could hardly be diftinguifhcd from large grey flones, if their black headfi did not project be- yond their coverings. G 3 They 86 A VOYAGE TO THE They adorn their heads with feathers, combs of bone or ^ood, with pearl ihell, and the inner (kin of leaves. Both men and women have their ears flit, in which are hung beads, pieces of jaf- per, or bits of cloth. Some have the Jceptum of the nofe bored in its lower part, but we never faw any ornament wore in that part; though a twig was paflfed through it by one of them, to fhcw that it was occafionally ufed for that purpofc. Many are ftained in the face with curious figures, of a black or dark blue colour; but it is not certain whether this is intended to be or- jiamental, or as a mark of particular didin^tion : the women arc marked only on their lips and chins I and both fexes befmear their heads and faces with a greafy reddifh paint. The women alfo wear necklaces of fliark's teeth, or bunches of long beads ; and a few of them have fmall triangular aprons, adorned with feathers or pieces of pearl fliells, fattened about the wajfl: with a double or treble fet of cords. They live in the fmall coves already mention- ed, fometimes in fingle families, and fometimes in oompanies of perhaps forty or fifty. Their huts, which are in general moft mifcrable lodg^ ing places, are built contiguous to each other. The bed we faw was built in the manner of one of our country barns, and was about fix feet in height, fifteen in breadth, and thirty-three in length. \ \ PACIFIC OC£AN. 87 length. The infidc was ftrong and regular, well faftened by means of withes, &c. and painted red and black. At one end it had a hole ferving as a door to creep out ar, and another confider- ably fmaller, feemingly for the purpofe of letting out the fmoke. This, however, ought to be confidered as one of their palaces, for many of their huts are not of half the fize, and feldom are more than four feet in height. They have no other furniture than a few fmall bags or balkers, in which they depofit their fifh- ing- hooks and other trifles. They fit down in ihe middle round a fmall fire, and probably flecp in the fame fituation, without any other covering than what they have worn in the day. Filhing is their principal fupport, in which they ufc different kinds of nets, or wooden fifti- hooks pointed with boncj but made in fo extra- ordinary a manner, that it appears aftonifliing how they can anfwer fuch a purpofe. Their boats confill of planks raifed upon each other, and faftened with ftrong withes. Many of them are fifty feet long. Sometimes they faften two together with rafters, which we call a double canoe : they frequently carry upwards of thirty men, and have a large head, ingenioufly carved and painted, which feems intended tore- prefent a man enraged. Their paddles arc nar- row, pointed, and about five feet long. Their G 4. fail. 88 A VOYAGE TO TUB fail, which is very little ufed, is a mat formed into a triangular fhape. They drcfs thcif* fi(h by roafting, or rather baking them, being entirely ignorant of the art of boiling. It is thus they alfo drefs the root of the large fern-tree, in a hole prepared for that purpofe : when dreflcd, they fplit it, and find a gelatinous fubftance within, fomewhat like fago powder. The fmaller fern-root feems to be their fubftitute for bread, being dried and carried a- bout with them, together with great quantities . of dried fifh, when they go far from their habita- tions. When the weather will not fuffer them to go to fca, mufcles and fca-ears fupply the place of other filh. Sometimes, but not often, they kill a few penguins, rails, and (hags, which enable them to vary their diet. Confiderable numbers of their dogs are alfo bred for food j but they depend principally on the fea for their fubfiftence, by which they are moft bountifully fupplied. They are as filthy in their feeding as in their perfons, which often emit a very offenfivc ef-^ fluvia, from the quantity of grcafe about them, and from their never washing their cloaths ; their heads are plentifully flocked with vermin, which they fometimes eat. Large quantities of ftink- ing tr^in oil, and blubber of feals, they would eagerly devour. When on board the fhips, they no% only emptied the l^mp?, bwt a(5twally fwaU 6 lowed PACiriC OCEAN* *9 lowed the cotton with equal voracity. Though the inhabitants of Van Diemcn*s Land would not even taftc our bread, thefc people devoured it with the greatell cagerncfs, even when it was rot- ten and mouldy. In point of ingenuity, they are not behind any uncivilized nations under fimilar circunnftances : for, without the afliftancc of metal tools, they make every thing by which they procure their fubfiftencc, cloathing, and warlike weapons, with neatnefs, ftrength, and convenience. Their prin- cipal mechanical tool is formed in the manner of an adze, and is made of the ferpent-ftone or jaf- per : their chiffel and gouge are furnilhed from the fame material, though they are fometimes compofed of black folid ftone. Carving, how- ever, is their mafter-piece, which appears upon the moft trifling things: the ornaments on the heads of their canoes, nor only difplay much de- fign, but execution. Their cordage for fifliing lines is not inferior to that in this country, and their nets are equally good. A (hell, a bit of flint, or jafper, is their fubftitute for a knife j and a fliark's tooth, fixed in the end of a piece of wood, is their auger. They have a faw made of fome jagged filhes teeth, fixed on a piece of wood nicely carved j but this is ufed for no other pur* pofe, than to cut up the bodies of thofe whom they kill in battle. Though ^o A VOYAOI TO THE Though no people arc more ready to rcfcnt an injury, yet they take every opportunity of being infolent, when they apprehend there is no danger of pvinifhnnent; whence it may be concluded, that their eagernefs to refent injuries, is rather an effc6t of a furious difpofition than genuine bra- very. They arc naturally mifliruftful and fufpi- cious, for fuch as arc Grangers never venture im« mediately to vifit our fhips, but keep at a fmall diilance in their boats, obferving our motions, and hefitating whether they fhould rifle their fafety with us. They are to the laft degree difhoneft, and fteal every thi'hg within their reach, if they fuppofe they can efcape detcdkion j and, in trad- ing, they feem inclined to take every poflible ad- vantage; for they never truft an article out of their hands for examination, and feem highly pleafed if they have over-reached you in a bar- gam. Such conduft indeed is not furprifing, when it is confidered that there appears to be but little Subordination, and ftw, if any> laws for the pu- nifliment of tranrgreflcrs. No man's authority extends beyond his own fatiiily; and when they join, at anytime, for mutual defence or ffety, thofe among them who are mod eminent for va- lour and prudent condufl, are directors, Thei ' public contentions are almoft perpetual, for war is their principal profcfTion, as appears from thtir number of weapons, and *lieir dex- terity PACIFIC OCEAN, 99 tcrity in ufing them. Their arms arc fpears, patoos and halberts, and fometimcs (lones. The firft are from five to thirty feet long, made of hard wood and pointed. The patoo is about eighteen inches long, of an elliptical fhape, with a handle made of wood, ftone, &c. and appears to be their principal dependance in battle. The halbert h about five or fix fee: in length, taper- ing at one end with a carved head, and broad or flat, with (harp edges, at the other. Before the onfet, they join in a war fong, keep- ing the exafteft time; and, by degrees, work themfelves into a kind of frantic fury, accom- panied with the moft horrid diftortions of their tongues, eyes and mouths, in order to deter their enemies. To this fucceeds a circumftance thit is moft horrid, cruel, and difgraceful to hu- man nature, which is mangling and cutting to T'ieces (even when not perfectly dead) the bodies of thei* enemies ; i^nd, after roj»{»:ing them, de- vouring the flelh with peculiar pleafure and fa- tisfadtion. it might naturally be fuppofed, that thofe who could be capable of fuch excefs of cruelty, nuift be totally deftitutc of every humane feeling j and yet they lament the lofs of heir friends in a man- ner the moft tender and affcflionate. Both men and women, upon the death of their relations or friends, bewail them with the moft miferable cries i at the fame time cutting large gashes in their 9« A VaYACUB, &C. their cheeks and foreheads, with ihells> of {pieces of flint, till the blood flows copioufly, and mixes with their tears. They alfo carve a refemblance of an human figure^ and hang it about their necks, as a memorial of thofe who were dear to them. They alfo perform the ceremony of lamenting and cutting for joy, at the return of a friend who has been fome time abfent. The pradtices of the fathers, whether good or bad, their children ^c, at an early age, inftrudt- ed in; fo that you find a child of either fex, of the age of nine or ten years, able to imitate the frightful motions and geilures of the men. They alfo (ing, andii Cape Pallifer bear- ing weft about feven leagues diftant, w^ had s, fine gule, and (leered towards the north -ead:. A| foon 94 A VOVAGfe TO THE foon as we had lod fight of land^ our two young Ncw-Zealanders heartily repented of the adven- turous ftep they had taken. Though we endea- voured, as far as lay in our power, to footh them, they wept, both in public and private ; and gave vent to their forrows in a kind of fong, which feemed to exprcfs their praifes of their country and people, from which they were now, in all probability, to be for ever feparated. They con- tinued in this ftate for feveral days, till, at length, the agitation of their minds began to fub- fide, i:d their fea-ficknefs, which had aggravated their g. wore off. Their lamentations then became Icis and lefs fi;equenti their native coun^^ try, their kindred and friends, were gradually forgotten, and they appeared to be firmly at- tached to us. i^rt W-; On the 28th at noon, being in the latitude of 41** 17' fouth, and in the longitude of 177** 17' caft, we tacked about and flood to the fouth-eafl, with a gentle breeze at eafl-north-eafl, which af- terwards veered to north-eafl, in which point the wind remained two days, fometimes blowing a frefh gale with fqualls and rain. On the ad of March it fhifted to north-weft, and afterwards to fouth-welt, between which point and the north it continued to blow, fometimes very moderately, and at other times a flrong gale. With this wind we ftcered north eafl by eaft and eaft, with all the fail wc could carry, till Tuefday the nth, when it PACIFIC OC£AN. ^^ It veered to north-caft and fouth-eaft ; we then ftood to the north and the fouth eaft, as the wind would permit, till the i6th, when having a gale from the north, we ftood to the eaft. Tlie next day we proceeded to the north -eaft ; but, as the wind frequently veered to cart: and eaft- north-eaft, we often made no better than a northerly courfc. The hopes, however, of the wind coming more foutherly, or from the weft- ward, a litdc without the Tropic of Capricorn, encouraged the Commodore to continue this courfe. It was indeed necelTary that we (hould run all hazards, as our proceeding to the north this fummcr, in profecution of the principal ob- jeft of the expedition, entirely depended on our having a quick paflage to Otaheite, or the So- ciety Ifles. We crofled the Tropic on the 27 th, the wind, for a confiderablc time before, having remained almoil invariably fixed at eaft fouth-eaft. In all this run, we obferved nothing that could induce us to fuppofe we had failed near the land, except occafionally a tropic bird. In the latitude of 34<» 20', longitude 1 99°, we paflfed the trunk of a tree, which appeared much weather-beaten, and was CO red with barnacles. On the 29th, - as we were ftanding to the north-eaft, the Difqo* very made the fignal of feeing land. We fooa found it to be a fmall ifland, and ftood for it till the evei)ing> when it was at the diftance of two or li 9(C A VOYAGB TO THE or three leagues. The next morning, ■ at day- break, we bore up for the weft fide of the ifland, and faw fcveral people wading to the reef, where, as they obfervcd the fhip leaving them quickly, they remained. But others, who foon appeared, followed her courfe; and fome of them aflemLlcd in fmall bodies, making great fhouts. Upon our nearer approach to the fliorc, we iaw many of the natives running along the beach, and, by the alTiftance of our glaffes, could per- ceive that they were armed with long fpcars and clubs, which they brandiihed in the air with figns of threatening, or, as fome of us fuppofed, with invitations to land. Moft of them were naked, except having a kind of girdle, which was brought up between their thighs j but fome of them wore about their fhoulders pieces of cloth of various colours, white, ftriped, or chequered j and almoft all of them had about their heads a white wrap- per, in fome degree refembling a turban. They were of a tawny complexion, robuft, and ^bout the middle fize. A fmall canoe was now launched from the moft diftant part of the beach, and a man get« ting into it, put off, as with a view of reaching the (hip; but his courage failing, he quickly re- turned towards the beach. Another man foon after joined him in the canoe ; and then both of them paddled towards us. They feemed, how- ever, afraid to approach, till their apprehenfions were PACIFIC OCEAN, 97 Were partly removed by Omai, who adclrefled them in the language of Otaheite. Thus encou- raged, they came near enough to receive fomc nails and bcadsj which, being tied to fome wood, were thrown into the canoe. They however put the wood afide without untying the things from it, which may perhaps have proceeded from fu- perftition ; for we were informed by Omai> that when they obferved us offering prefents to them, they requefted fomething for their Eatooa, Oil Omai's afking them whether they ever eat human flefh, they replied in the negative, with equal abhorrence and indignation. One of them, named Mourooa, being queftioned with regard to a fear on his forehead) faid it was the confequence of A. wound he had received in fighting with the na« tives of an ifland lying towards the north-eaft, who fometimes invaded them. Thev afterwards laid hands on a rope, but would not venture on board, telling Omai, that their countrymen on fhore had fuggefled to them this caution ; and had likewife direftraight, black hair, tied together on the top of iheir heads with a piece of white cloth. They had long beards; and the infideof their arms, from the elbow to the fhoulder, and fome other parrs, were tatooed or punflured. The lobe of their cars was flit to fuch a length, that one of them ftuck th4*re a knife and fome beads, which we had given him. The fame perfon had hung about his neck, by way of ornament, two polifhed, pearl-fl\ells, and a bunch of human hair, loofely twifted together. They wore a kind of girdles, which we found were a fubftance manufaduretL from the morns papyriferay and glazed like thofe ufed in the Friendly Iflands. They had on their feet a fort of fandals, made of a graffy fubftance interwoven, which we obferved were alfo worn by thofc whom we had fcen on the beach. The canoe in which they came was the only one we faw. It was very narrow, a» d not above ten feet long, but ftrong and neatly inadc. The lower which e alfo pcated )re he at the made, arly of e moft on was raight, f their ;y had 1, from r parrs, >f their f them we had about olifhed loofely girdles, a^lurecL e thofe )n their bftancc 5 worn . The one we ten feet lowef part ! s s !^ ¥< PACIFIC OCEAN. 99 pat-t was of white wood ; but the upper part was black, and their paddles were made of wood of the fame colour : thefe were broad at one end, and blunted, and about three feet long. The fore part had a fl^t board faftened over it, which proje(5led out, to prevent the water from getting in. It had an upright fternj five feet highj which terminated at the top in a kind of fork. They paddled indifferently cither end of the canoe forward. As foon as the Ihips were in a proper (lation. Captain CoOk fent out two boats to endeavour to find a convenient place for landing. In one of them he went himfelf, and had no fooner put oft from the fhip^ than the two men in the canoe paddled towards his boat j and when they were come along-fide> Mourooai without hefitation, ftept irito her. Omai, who was with the Captain, was defired to enquire of the iflander where We could land ; upon which he directed us to two places. But we foon obferved> with regret, that the attempt at either place was imprafticable, on account of the furfj unlefs at the rifque of hav- ing our boats dcftroyed. Nor were we more fuc- cefsful in our fearch for anchorage, as we could find no bottom till within a cable's length of the breakers, where we met with from forty to twenty fathoms depths over (harp rocks of coral. While we thus reconnoitred the ftiore of Man- geca> the ^ativcs thronged 4own upon the rpef, H ^ all \ 1 100 A VOYAGE TO THE all armed. Moiirooa, who flill remained in the boat with Captain Cook, thinking, perhaps, that this warlike appearance deterred us from land- ing, commanded them to retire. As many of them complied, we imagined, that he was a per- fon of fome confequence: indeed, if we did not mifundciftand him, he was brother to the kin? of the ifland. Several of them, inftigated by curiofity, fwam from the fhore to the boats, and came on board them without referve. We even found fome difficulty in keeping them our, and could fcarce prevent their pilfering wliatevcr they could lay hands upon. At length, when they obfcrved us returning to the Ihips, they all left us except Mourooa, who, though not with- out nianifell indication of fear, accomt)an'"d the Commodore on board the Refolution. cattle and other new obje«5ls that he faw there, did not ftrike him with much furprize j his mind, perhaps, being two much occupied about his own lafety, to allow him to attend to other things. He feemed very uneafy, and gave us but little new intelligence ; and therefore, after he had continued a lliort time on board. Captain Cook ordered a boa't to carry him towards the land. In his way out of the cabin, happening to ftumble over one of the goats, he Hopped, looked at the animal, and afked Omai what bird it was -, but not receiving an immediate aniwer from him, he put the fame queftion to Ibiiic of the people who ... verc rACIFIC OCEAJsr. XOI were upon deck. The boat having conveyed him near the furf, he leaped into the water, and Iwam alhore. His countrymen, eager to Ifarii from him what he had fccn, Bocked round him as loon as he had landed : in which ficuacion they re- mained, when we loft fight of them. We hoided in the boat as foon as die rctur^ied, and made fail to the northward. Thus we were obliged to leave this fine ifland unvifircd, which iVemed capable of fupplying all our neccHities. It is fituace in the longitude of 201° sf eaft, and in the lati- tude of 21° 57' fouth. Thofc parts of the coafl of Mangeea which fell under our obfervation, are guarded by a reef of coral rock, againlt which a htivy furf is con- tinually breaking. The ifland is about five leagues in circumference, and though of a mo- derate and pretty equal height, may be {cen in clear weather at the diftance of ten leagues. In the interior parts, it rifes into fmajl hills,'whence there is an eafy defcent to the fliore, which, in the fouth-weft part, is Ileep, though not very high, and has feveral excavations made by the dadiing of the waves againft a brownifli fand-ftone, of which it confifts. The defcent here abounds with trees of a deep green, which feem to be all of one fort, except neareft the Ihoie, where we obferved numbers of that fpecies of dracana found in the woods of New-Zealand. The fhore^^ on the north-weft part, iterminates in a fandy H 3 bcach^ If lo: Vl Y A G E TO THE li'.r beach, beyond which the Jand is broken into fnnall chafms, and has a broad border of trees which refemble tall willows. Further up, on the afcent, the trees were of the cjeep green above- mentioned, which fome of us imagined to be the rima, intermixed with cocoa-palms, apd a few other forts. Sonie trees of a higher fort were thinly fcattered on the hills, the other parts pf which were either covered with fomething like fern, or were bare, and of a reddifli colour. The iQand, upon the \yhole, has a pleafing appear- ance, and might, by proper cultivation, be made a beautiful fpor. The natives appearing to be hoth numerous and well fed, it is highly probable, that fuch ar- ticles of provifion as the ifland produces are found in great abundance. Our friend Mourooa inform- ed us, that they had no hog^ nor dogs, though they had heard of both thofe animals j but that they had plantains, taro, , and bread-fruit. The pnly birds we obferved, were Ibrie tern;?, nod- dies, white e^-birds, and ope white heron. The language of the Mangeeans is a dialedt of that of Otaheitej but thtir pronunciation is more ' guttural. They refemble the inhabitants of Ota- heite and the Marquefas in the beauty of their perfons; and their general difpofition alfo feems to correfpond with that of the firft-mentioned people J for they are not only lively and chearful, but are acquainted with all the lafcivious gcfli- <:ulations PACIFIC OCEAN. 103 dilations praftifed by the Otahciteans in their dances. We had likewife rcafon to fuppofe, that they have fimilar methods of living: for, though we had not an opportunity of feeing many of their habitations, we obferved one houfe near the beach, which, in its mode of conftrudion, dif- fcred little from thofe of Otaheite. It appeared to be feven or eight feet high, and about thirty in length, wi:h an open end, which reprefented an ellipfe, or oval, tranfverfely divided. It was pleafantly fituatcd in a grove. Thefe people falute ftrangers by joining nofes, and taking the hand of the perfon whom they ^ccoft, which they rub with fome force upon their mouth and nofe. It is worthy of remark, that the inhabitants of the Palaos, New Philippine, or rather Caroline Iflands, though at the diftancc of near 1500 leagues from Mangeea, have a fimi* iar method of faiu cation. 1 H4 C.H A P. 104 A VOYAGE TO THE :!iV C H A p. II. An IJland named Wateeoo dif covered — Vi/its from the Inhabitants on board the Ships — Their Per- Jons and Drefs dejcribcd — The Coafi of the Ifland examined — lieutenants Gore and Burney^ Mr. Anderjon and Omai, Jent on Shor^ — Mr, Ander- Jon's Account of their Reccptior{ — They are intro^ duced to three Chiefs — Dance of tiventj young Women dejcrihed — Omai's Apprehenfions of being roafied—'The Iflanders Jcnd Proviftons on board — Further Defcription of the Natives — Of their double Canoes — Trees and Plants — OmaVs Expe- dient to prevent being detained en Shore — Hii meets with three of his Countrymen — Account of their diflrefsful Voyage — Additional Remarks re- lative to JVateeoo. WE quitted Mangeea in the afternoon of the 30th of March, and proceeding on ^ northerly courfe, we again difcovered land, on the 31ft, at the diftance of nine or ten leag-^es. The next morning we were abreaft of its north end, within four leagues of it, Jt now appeared to us to be an ifland nearly of the fame extent with that which we had juft left. Another ifland, piuch fmaller, was alfo defcried right a-head. Though we could foon have reached this, we preferred the larger one, as being mofl: likely to •J -- furnifh PACIFIC OCEAN". 105 furnifli food for the cattle. We therefore made fjiil to it; but there being little wind, and that unfavourable, we were ftill about two leagues to leeward at eight o'clock the fiicceeding morn- ing. The Commodore, foon after, difpatched three armed boats, under the command of Mr, Gore, his P'irft Lieutenant, in fearch of a land- ing-place and anchoring-ground. Mean-while we plied up under the ifland with the ihips. As our boats were putting ofF, we faw feveral canoes coming from the fhore, which repaired firft to the Difeavery, as that ihip was the neareft. Not long after, three of thefe canoes, each conduced by one man, came along-fide of the Refolution. They arc long and narrow, and are fupported by out-riggers : the head is flat above, but prow-like below; and the ftern is about four feet high. We beftowed on our vifitors fome knives, beads, and other trifles -, and they gave us feme cocoa- nuts, in confequence of our ' aving afked for them J but they did not part with them by way of exchange, as they feemed to have nu idea of barter or traffic. One of them, after a little perfuafion, came on board ; and tlic other two foon followed his example. They appeared to be perfedlly at their eafe, and free from all ap- prehenfion. After their departure, a man ar- rived in another canoe, bringing a bunch of plantains as a prefent to Captain Cook, who gave him, in return, a piece of red cloth and an axe. Wc I! \ I a" K ,H ri .•^M P 1 .^■ [o6 A VOYAGE TO THE %Ve were afterwards informed i)y Omai, that tiiis prefent had been fent from the king of the ifland. Soonafter> a double canoe, containing twelve of the iflanders, came towards us. On approach- , ing the Ihip, they recited fome words in concert, by way of chorus^ one of them firft giving the word before each repetition. Having finiflied this folemn chant, they came along- fide, and aflced.for the chief. As foon as Captain Cook had made his appearance, a pig and fome cocoa- nuts were conveyed into the fhip j and the Cap- tain was alfo prefented with a piece of matting, by the principal perfon in the canoe, when he ^d his companions had got on board. Thefe new vifitors were introduced into the cabin,, and conduced to other parts of the Ihip, Though fome objedbs feemed to furprife them, no- thing could fix their attention. They were afraid to venture near the cows and horfes, of whofe nature they could form no conception. As for the Ihecp and goats, they gave us to underftand, that they knew them to be birds. It is a mat- ter of aftonifhment, that human ignorance could ever make fo ridiculous ^ miftake, as there is not the fmallcft refem;)Iance between any winged animal and a (heep; or goat. But thefe peoj.le feentied unacquainted with the exiftence of any other terreftrial aninr^als, than hogs, dogs, and birds i and as they faw that our goats and fheep were very different from the two former^ they ab- furdly I M (, PACIFIC OCEAN, 107 (\irdly inferred, that they muft belong to the lat- ter clafs, ip which they knew there, was a great variety of fpecies. Though the Commodore bc-« (lowed on his new friend what he fuppofed would be the moft acceptable prefenr, yet he fcemed fomewhat difappointed. The Captain was after-* wards informed that he eagerly wifhed to procuro a dog, of which kind of anim<3ls this ifland was deftitute, though the natives knew that the race ^xifted in other iflands of the Pacific Ocean. Cap* tain Clerke had received a fimilar prefent, with the fame view, from another man, who was equally difappointed in his cxpcdations. The iflanders whom we had feen in thofe canoes were in general of the middle ftature, and not unlike the Mangeeans. Their hair either flowed loofcly over their ihpulders, or was tied 6n the crown of the head j and though in fome it was frizzled^ yet that, as well as the ilraight fort, was Jong. Some of the young men were handfomc. ^ike the inhabitants of Mangeca, they wore gir- dles of glazed cloth, or fine matting, the ends pf which were brought between their thighs. Their ears were bored, and they wore about their necks, by way of ornament, a fort of broad grafs, ftained with red, and ftrung with berries of the night-lhade. Many of them were curioufly mark- ed or iatooed frpm the middle downwards, parti- cularly upon their legs ; which made them appear as if they wore boots. Their beards were long, and io8 A VOYAGE TO THE .-*!».-.. and they had a kind of fandals on their feet. They were frank and chearful in their deportment, and very friendly and good-natured. - Lieutenant Gore returned from his cxcurfion • i-n the afternoon, and informed Captain Cook,, that he had examined the weft fide of the ifland, without being able to find a place where the fhips could ride in fafety, or a boat could land, the Ihore being hounded by a fteep coral-rock, againft "Which a continual furf broke with extraordinary violence. But as the inhabitants feemed extreme- ly friendly, and as defirous of our landing as we ourfelves were, Mr. Gore was of opinion, that they might be prevailed upon to bring off to the boats beyond the furf, fuch articles asi we were ' moft in need of. As we had little or no wind, the delay of a day or two was of fmall confidera- tion ; and therefore the Commodore refolved to try the experiment the next morning. We'ob-' ferved, foon after day-break, fome canoes com- ing towards the iliipsj one of which direfted its courfe to the Refolution. There were in it fome eocoa-nuts and plantains, and a hog, for which the natives demanded a dog from us, refufing every other thing that we offered by way of ex- change. Though one of our gentlehnen on board had a dog and a bitch, which we're great nui- fances in the fliip, and which might have ferved to propagate a race of fo ufeful an animal in this ifland, yet ,hc could not be prevailed upon t-o part P A C.r F I C OCEAN, 109 part with them. However, to gratify thefe peo- ple, Omai gave them a favourite dog he had brought from Great-Britain i with which acqui- lition they were higiily pleafed. The fame morning, which was the 3d of April, Captain Cook detached Mr. Gore with three boats, to make trial of the experiment which that officer had propofed. Two of the natives, who had been on board, accompanied him; and Omai ferved as an interpreter. The fhips being a full league from the ifland when the boats put off, and the wind being inconfiderable, it was twelve o'clock before we could work up to it. We then perceived our three boats juft without the furf, and an amazinp; number of the iflanders on the fhore, ai^reaft of them. Concluding from this, that Lieutenant v^^re, and others of our people, had landed, we were impatient to know the event. With a view of obferving their motions, and be- ing ready to afford them Tuch afllftance as they might occafionally require, the Commodore kept as near the (hore as was confiftent with prudence. He was convinced, however, that the reef was a very e|Fe(5tual barrier between us and our friends who had landed, and put them completely out of the reach of our protection. But the natives, in all probability, were not fo fenfible of this circumftince as we were. Some of them, now and then, brought a few cocoa-nuts to the Ihips, and exchanged them for whatever was of- iered lid A VOYAGE TO THE fered them. Thefe occafional vifits diminifhed the Captain's folicitude about our people who had landed ; for, though we could procure no intelligence from our vifitors> yet their ventur- ing on board fcemed to imply> that their coun- trymen on Ihore had made no improper ufe of the confidence repofed in them. At length, towards the evening, we had the fatisfadtion of feeing the boats return. When our people got on board, we found that Mr. Gore, Mr. Anderfon, Mr* Burney, and Omai, were the only pcrfons who had landed. The occurrences of the day were now fully reported to the Commodore by Mr* Gore. Mr. Anderfon's account of their tranfac- tions, which was very circumftantial, and includ* ed fome obfervations on the idand and its inha* bitant^, was to the following purport. They rowed towards a fandy beach, where d great number of the natives had aflembled, and came to an anchor at the difl ice of a hundred yards from the, reef. Several of the iflanders fwam off, bringing cocoa-nuts with themj and Omai gave them to underflrand, that our people were defirous of landing. Soon after, two canoes came off i and to infpire the natives with a greater confidence, Mr. Gore and his companions re- folved to go unarmed. Mr. Anderfon and Lieu- tenant Burney went in one canoej a little before the other; and their condu(5lors watching with great attention the motions of the furf, landed them PACIFIC OCEAN. Ill them fafely on the reef. A native toolv hold of each of them, with a view of fupporting them in wallcing over the rugged rocks to the beach, where feveral others, holding in their hands the green boughs of a fpecies of mimofay met them, gnd faluted them by the jundion of nofes. They were conduced from the beach amidft a vaft multitude of people, who flocked around them with the mod eager curiofity j and being led up an avenue of cocoa-palms, foon came to a num- ber of men, arranged in two rows, and armed with clubs. Proceeding onward among thefc, they found a perfon who appeared to be a chief, fitting crofs-legged on the ground, and cooling himfclf with a kind of triangular fan, made from the leaf of the cocoa-palm, with a poliflied han- dle of black wood. He wore in his ears large bunches of beautiful feathers of a red colour j but had no other mark to dillinguifh him from the reft of the people. Our two countrymen having faluted him as he fat, marched on among the men armed with clubs, and came to a fecond chief, adorned like the former, and occupied, like him, in fanning himfelf. He was remarkable for his fize and corpulence, though he did not appear to be above thirty years of age. They were con- duced in the fame manner to a third chief, who feemed older than the two former : he alfo was fitting, and was ornamented with red feathers. After they had faluted hlrti as they had done the 8 others. 112 A VOYAGE TO THE Vi K others, he dcfired them both to fit down ; which they willingly confcnted to, being greatly fatigued with walking, and with the extreme heat they felt amidft the furrounding multitude* The people being ordered to feparate, Meflrs. Andcrfon and Burney faw, at a fmall diftance, about twenty young women, adorned like the chiefs with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which they performed to a flow and folemn air, . fung by them all. Our two gentlemen rofe up, and walked forward to fee thefe dancers, who, with- out paying them the fmalleft attention, ftill con- tinued their dance. They feemed to be direfted by a man, who, in the capacity of a prompter, mentioned the feveral motions they were to make. They never changed the fpot, as Europeans do in dancing, and though their feet were not en- tirely at reft, this exercife confifted more in mov- ing their fingers very nimbly, holding their hands at the fame time in a prone pofition near the face, and occafionally clapping them together*. Their dancing and finging were performed in the ex- afteft concert. They had probably been inftrudled with extraordinary care, and felefled for this ce- remony, being fupcrior in beauty to moft of thofe . who were in the crowd. They were, in general, rather ftout, and of an olive complexion, with black hair flowing in ringlets down their necks. • The dances here defcribed, bear a great refemblance to thofe of tlvie natives of the Caroline Iflands* K ' Their ii! PACIFIC OCEAN, «I3 Their Ihape and limbs were elegantly formed s for, their drefs confifting only of a piece of glazed cloth tied round the Waift, which fcifcely reach- ed (6 low as the knees, our gentlemen had an op- portunity of obferving almoft every part. Their features were rather too full to conftitute a per- fect beauty. Their eyes were of a deep black, and their countenances exprefled a great degrde of modefty and complacency. Before thefe beauteous females had finilhed their dance, our two countrymen heard a noife, as if fome horfes had been galloping towards them ; and, on turning their eyes adde, they faw the people armed with clubs> who had been de- fired to entertain them> as they fuppofed, with ati exhibition of their mode of fighting ; which the/ now did, one party purfuing another who rail away. Lieutenant Bufney and Mr^ Anderfon began now to look about for Mr. Gore and Omai, whoiti they at length found coming up, as much incom*^ moded by the crowds of people as themfelves had been, and introduced in the fame manner to the three chiefs; the names of whom were Otteroo, Taroa, and Fatouweera. Each of thefe cxpedl- ing a prefent, Mr. Gore gave them fuch things as he had brought with him for that purpofe ; af- ter which he informed the chiefs of his views in coming on (hore, but was dcfired to wait till the next day before he fhould have what was wanted. .^mI m.m. Vol. I.— n"* a. I They 114 A VOYAGE TO THE They now fecmcd to endeavour tr feparate our gentlemen from each other, every one of wliom had his rerpe«5tive circle to furround, and gaze af him. Mr. Anderfon was, at one time, upwards of an hour aj^art from his friends; and when he told the chief, who was near him, that he wilhed to fpeak to Omai, his requell was peremptorily fefufed. At the fame time he found that the people pilfered feveral trifling things which were in his pocket; and on his complaining of this treatment to the chief, he juftified their beha- viour. From thefe circumftances, Mr. Ander- fon began to apprehend, that they defigncd to detain our party among them. In ihis lituation, he afked for fomething to eat; upon which they brought him fome cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and a fort of four pudding; and when he complained of the heat, occafioned by the multitude of people, the chief himfelf condefcended to fan him. Mr. Burney going to the place where Mr. An- derfon was, the latter informed him of his fufpi- cions ; and to try whether they were well founded or not, they both attempted to get to the beach ; but they were foon flopped by fome of the na- tives, who faid they muft return to the place which they had left. On their coming up, they found Omai under the fame apprehenfions ; but he had, as he imagined, an additional motive of terror; for, having obierved that they had dug g a hole PACIFIC OCtAN. PS A liolc in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating, he could aflign no other rcafon for it, than that they intended to road and devour our party : he even went fo far as to a(k them whether that was their intention, at which they were much furpri'ed, afliing, in return, whether that cuftom prevailed among us. Thus were Mr. Andei-ron and the others de- tained the greateft part of the day, being fomc- times feparated, and fomctimes together; but continually in a croud, who frequently defircd them to uncover parts of their fl during his laft voyage. We got fight of it about day- break in the morning of the 6th, at the dirtance of about three leagues. We approached it about eight o'clock, and obferved fcveral canoes coming from the Ihore towards the fhips. We were rather furprized at this circum- itance, as no traces or figns of inhabitants were fccn when the ifland was firft difcovered : this, indeed, might be owing to a briflc wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes venturing out. Advancing ftill towards the ifland, fix or feven double canoes immediately cime near us, with from three to fix men in each of them. At the diftance of about a fl:one's throw from the fliip they flopped, and it was with difficulty that Omai prevailed on them to come along-fidci but they could not be induced to truft themfelves on board. Indeed, their diforderly behaviour did not indi- cate a difpofition to truft us, or to treat us well. They attempted to fl:eal fome oars out of the Dif- covery's boat, and ftrucka man for endeavouring to prevent them. They alfo cut away a net contain- ing meat, which hung over the ftern of that fliip, and at firft would not reftore it, though they after- wards permitted us to purchafe it from them. Thofc who were about the Refolution, behaved equally diforderly and daring i for, with a Ibrt of hooks made PACIFfC OCEA^^. 129 made of a long (lick, they openly endeavoured to rob us of feveral things, and adually got a frock belonging to one of our people. It appeared that they had a knowledge of bartering, for they exchanged fome fifli for fome of our fmall nails, of which they were extravagantly fond, and called them gcore. Pieces of paper, or any other trifling article that was thrown to them, they caught with the greateft avidity; and if what was thrown fell into the fea, they immediately plunged in to fwim after it. Though the diftance between Hervey's Ifland and Wateeoo is not very great, the inhabitants differ greatly from each other, both in perfon and difpofition. The colour of the natives of Hervey's Ifland is of a deeper call, and feveral of them haa a fierce favage afpecl, like the natives of New- Zealand^ though fome were fairer. Their hair was long and black, either hanoin<3; loofe about their Ihoulders, or tied in a bunch on the top of the head. Some few, indeed, had it cropped fliort, and, in two or three of them, it was of a red or brownifli colour. Their clothing was a narrow piece of mac, bound feveral times round the lower part of the body, and pafTing between the thighs. We f:iw a fine cap of red feathers lying in one of the canoes, and fome amongfl: them were ornamented with the fhell of a peari- oyfter, poliflied, and hung about the neck. Vol. I. — N° 3 K The IJO A VOYAGE TO THE im^^ The mode of ornament, fo prevalent among the natives of this cjean, of pundiiring or tatooing their bodies, not one of th^m had adopted; but though chey vvcrre finguiar in this refpeft, their being of the fame common race is not to be doubted. Their language more refembled the dialect of Otaheitc, than that of Mangeea orWa- teeoo. Like the natives of thofe iflands, they enquired from whence we came, whither bound, the fliip's name, the name of our chief, and the ruiir.bcr of men on board. Such quellions as we propored to them, they very readily anfwercd. They infcrmcd us, among other things, that they had before feen two large fhips, like ours, but had not fpoken to them as they paiTed. Thefe were, doubtlefs, the Refolution and Adventure. They acquainted us that the name of their ifland was Terouggemou Atooa ; and that they were Uibjeft to Teerevatoocah, King of Watceoo. Their food, they faid, confided of cocoa-nuts, Bill, and turtle; being deftituteof dogs and hogs, and the ifland not producing bread-fruit or plan- tains. Their canoes (near thirty of which ap- peared one time in fight) are tolerably large, and well built, and bear fome refemblance to thofe of Watceoo. \\ e drew near the north-wefl: part of the ifland about one o'clock. This fecmed to be the only part where wc could exped to find anchorage, or u iinding-pl'ice for our i^oars. Captain Cook imme- PACIFIC OCEAN. 131 immediately difpatched Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to found and reconnoitre the coaft. The boats were no fooner hoifted out, than our new vifirers fufpended their traffic with us, pufhing for fhore as faft as poffible, and came no more near us. The boats returned at three o'clock, and Mr. King inforiT.ed Cjptain Cook, that he could find no anchorage for the ihi]r^ ; and that the boats could advance no farther than the outer edt^c of the reef, which was almoll: a quarter of a mile from the dry land. That a number of the natives came upon the reef, armed with clubs and long pikes, meaning, as he fuppofed, to oppofe his landing ; though, at the fame time, they threw cocoa-nuts to oiii people, and requefted them to come on fliore ; and, notwithftanding this fecm- ing friendly treatment, the women were very adive in bringing down a frefli fupply of darts and fpears. Cautain Cook confidcred that, as we could not bring the Ihips ro anchor, the attempt to pro- cure grafs here would be attended with delay and danger. Being thus difippointed in all the iilands after our leaving New-Zealand, and having, from variety of circumllances, been unavoidably re- tarded in our progrefs, it was in vain to think of doing any thing this year in the hi'i^h latitudes of the northern heinifphere, from which wc were then fo fiir diftant, though it was then the feafon »f '^! Ml S K 2 for ' i« 122 A VOYAGE TO THE 1^ m^h ^ ic«i ^'fi for our operations there. Thus fituated, it was neceflary to purfue Tuch meafures as appeared bed calculated to prefer ve our cattle, and fave tiie (lores and provifions of the fliips ; the better to enable us to profecute our northern difcoveries, which could not now commence till a year later than was intended. If we could fortunately have procured a fupply of water and grafs, at any of the iflands we had lately vifited, Captain Cook intended to have ftood back to the fouth, till he had got a wefterly wind. But, without fuch a fupply, the certain confequence of doing this, would have been the lofs of the cattle, before it was poflible for ns to reacli Otaheite, without gaining a fingle point of advantage refpedling the grand objedt of our voyage. The Captain, therefore, determined to bear away for ti:ie Friendly Iflands, where he knew he could be well fupplied witii every thing he wanted; and, it being neceffary to run night and day, he ordered Captain Clerke to keep a league a-head of tlie Rcfolution ; becaufe his fliip could belt claw oit the land, which we might poflibly fall in with, in our paflage. We fleered weft by fouth, with a fine breeze. Captain Cook propofed to proceed firft to Mid- dleburgh, or Eooa, thinking we might, perhaps, have provifion enough for the cattle, tolalttill we fliould arrive at that ifland. But the next day, about p 8-i 'X. iki ' i'A PACIFIC OCEAN. 1.35 about noon, thofe faint breezes th.u had fo lono- retarded us, again returnee ; and we found it ne- cefTary to get into the latitude of Pahnerfton's and Savage Iflands, which Captain Cook difco- vered In 1774; that, in cafe of neceflity, recourfe might be had to them. In order to fave our water. Captain Cook or- dered the ftill to be kept at work a whole days during which time we procured about fifteen gal- lons of frefh water. Thefe light breezes continued till Thurfda/ the loth, when the wind blew fome hours frefh from the north, and north north- weft. In the afternoon wc had fome very heavy rain, attended with thunder fqualls. We colleded as much rain-water as filled five of our puncheons. When thefe fl|ualls had blown over, the wind was very unfettled, both in ftrength and in pofuion, till the next day at noon, when it fixed at north-weft-j^ and north north -we ft, and blev/ a t'reili breeze. Wc were thus perfecuted with the wind in our teethj and had the additional mortification to find thofe very v/inds here, which w^e had reafon to expect farther I'outh. At day- break, however, on the 13th, v/e perceived Palmerfton's Ifianci, bearing weft by fouth, at the diftance of about five leagues ; but did not get up with it tHi the next morning, at eight. Captain Cook then dif- patched three boats from the Refoiution, and one from the Difcovery, with a propw ofFicer in each, K 3 m m 134 A VOYAGE TO THE to fearch for a convenient lanciing- place j we being now under an abfolute neccflky of pro- curing here fome provender for our cattle, or we m\)di certainly have lofl them. , What is called Palmerflon's Ifland, confiflsof a group of frnall iflets, about nine or ten in num-- ber, conuedted together by a reef of coral rocks, and lying in circular direclion. The boats firil: examined the rnofl fouth-eafttrly iflet ; and, not fucceeding there, ran down to the fecond, where they immediately landed. Captain Cook then bore down with the Ihips, till we were a- bread of the place, where we kept (landing off and on, there being no bottom to be found to anchor upon. This, however, v/as of no material con- fequence, as there were no human beings upon the iOand, except the party who had landed from our boat:>. At one o'clock one of the boats rtturned^ laden with Icurvy-grafs and young cocoa-trees, which was, a(: this time., a moll t'xcellent rcpaft for our animals on board„ A meffao-e was alfo brouglit from Mr,, Gore, who commanded the party upon this expedidon, acquainting us that die iOand abounded with fuch produce, and alio with the wharra-iree and cocoa-nuts. In corife- qucnce of this information, Caprain Cook re- foivcd to get a fufficient fupply of thefe articles before he quitted "this ilation, and accordingly went alhore in a frnall boat, accompanied by the Captain PACIFIC OCEAN. »35 Captain of the Difcovery. The ifland does not exceed a mile in circumference, and is not ele- vated above three feet beyond the level of the Tea. It conHfted almofl: entirely of a coral fand, with a fmall mixture of blackifh mould, which a})peared to be produced from rotten vegetables. This poor foil is, however, covered with the fame kinds of flirubs and buflics as we had feen at Otakootaia or Wenooa-etre, though not in fo great variety. We perceived a great number of man of war birds, tropic birds, and two^forts of boobies, which were then laying their eggs, and fo ex- ceedinojly tame as to permit us to take them off their neils, which confift only of a few fticks ioofely put together. Thcfc tropic birds differ elTentially from the common fort, being or a beau- tiful white, (lightly tinged with red, and having two long tail-feathers of a deepifh crimfon. Our people killed a confiderable number of each fort, which, though not the moft delicate kin4 of food, were highly acceptable to us, who had been a long time confined to a fait diet. Wc i'lw plenty of red crabs creeping about among the trees -, and caught feverai fifh, whicli, when trie fea retreated, had been left in holes upon the rccr ' At one part of tiie reef, which bounds the lake within, alm(j(t cv'-ii with the furface, there was 2^ large bed of coral, which ;ifi-brded a moll en- chanting pfofpe*5l. Its bafe, wl)ich was fixed to K ^ th«i '-'I 3iV ' \- \ I ^ " W. 1 '-■¥ v.wA tti Ij6 A VOYAGE TO TF i the fliorc, extended {o far that it could not be feen, fo that it appeared to be ftirpenJed in the water. The fea was then unruffled, and the re- fulgence of the fun expofed the various forts of coral, in tlie moil beautiful order j fome parts luxuriantly branching into the water ; others ap- pearing in vafl: variety of figures ; apd the whole greatly heightened by fpangles of the richeft co- lours, glowing from a number of large clams, interlperfed in every part. Even this delightful fccne was greatly improved by th;- multitude of filhes, that gently glided along, feemingly with the mofl perfed: fecurity. Their colours were the moft beautiful that can be imagined j blue, yellow, black, red, 6cc. far excelling any thing that can be produced by art. The richnefs of this fubmarine grotto was greatly increaicd by their various forms; and the whole could not pofiTibly be furveved vs ithout a pleafing tranfport, accompanied, at the fame time, with regret, that a work fo aftonifliingly ek-ganl: Ihould be con- cealed in a place fo fcldom explored by the hu- man eye. Except a piece of a canoe tliat was found upon the beach, no traces were difcoverable of inhabi- tants having ever been herci and probably that mav have been drifted from fome other iOand. W t were furpnfed, however, at perceiving fome fmall brown ratb on this little iiland; a circum- llance, perhaps, not eafiiy accounted for, unlefs we iM PACIFIC OCEAN, 137 yt admit the pofTibllity of their being imported in the canoe, of which wc favv the remains. The boats being laden, Captain Cook rc-turned on board, leaving Mr. Gore and his party to pafs the night on fhore, to be ready for bufinefs early the next morning. The 15th, like the preceding day, was fpent in collecting fubfiftence for the cattle, confiding principally offender branches of the wharra-tree, palm-cabbage, and young cocoa-nut trees. A fufhcient fupply of thefe having been procured by fun-let. Captain Cook ordered all the people on board: but, having very little wind, he de- termined to employ the next day, by endeavour- ing, from the next ifland to leeward, to get fome cocoa-nuts for our people: for this purpofe, we kept (landing off and on all night j and, about nine o'clock in the morning, we went to the weft- fide of the iflands, and landed, from our boats, with little difficulty. The people immediately employed theiiifelves in gathering cocoa-nuts, which we found in the greateft plenty; but it was a tedious operation to convey them to our boats, being obliged to carry them half a mile over the reef, up to the middle in water. Omai, who accom- panied uSv prefently caught, with a fcoop-net, as many fifli as fupplied the party on Ihore for din- ner, befides fending a quantity to each fhip. Men of war, and tropic-birds, were found here in abundance, fo that we fared moft fumptuoufly. In " M •f { I3» A VOYAGE TO TIJK ':'yi 1^} In thefe excurfions to the uninhabited inands, Omai was of the greateft fervice to us. He caught the fifh, and drefled them, as well as the birds we killed, after the fafhion of his country, with a dexterity and chearfulnefs that did hinn ho- nour. Before night, the boats made two trips, and were each tim.e heavy laden : with the laft, Captain Cook returned on board, leaving his Third Lieutenant, Mr. Williair.fon, with a party, to prepare another lading for the boats againil the next morning. Accordingly, Capt. Cook difpatched them about feven o'clock, and, by noon, they returned laden. No delay was made in fending them back for another cargo, with orders for all to be on board by fun-fet. Thefe orders being pun6lually obey- ed, we hoifted in the boats, and failed to the weil- ward, with a light air from the north. The iflet we laft came from is fomewhat larger than the other, and almoft covered with cocoa- palms. The other productions were the fame as at the firft iflet. On the beach were found two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, and an elliptical paddle. Thefe were, perhaps, a part of the fame canoe, the remains of which we had (ecn on the other beach, the tvv'o iflets beinff within half a mile of each other. There O were not fc nany crabs here as at the laft place, but we fouL fome fcorpions and other infc6ls, and a much greater number of filh upon the reefs. , . Among PACIFIC OCEAN, 139 Among the reft were fome beautiful large fpottcd eels, which would rajfe themfelves out of the water, and endeavour to bite their purfu^s. There were alfo fnappers, parrot-filh, and a brown fpotted rock-fifh, not larger than a haddock, fo tame, that it would remain fixed, and gaze at us. If we had been really in want, a fufficient fup- ply might eafily have been had, for thouliinds of the clams ftuck upon the reef, many of which weighed two or three pounds. There were alfofome other forts of Ihell-fifli j and, when the tide flow- ed, feveral fharks came with it, fome of which were killed by our people ; but their prcfence rendered it, at that time, unfafe to walk in the water. Mr. Williamfon and his party, who were left on fhore, were much peftered in the night with mufquitoes. Some of them fhot two curlews, and faw fome plovers upon the fhore j one or two cuckoos, like thofe at Wenooa-ette, were alfo feen. The iflets comprehended under the name of Palmerfton's Ifland, may be faid to be the fum- mits of a reef of coral-rock, covered only with a thin coat of fand ; though clothed with trees and plants, lik<* the low grounds of the high iflands of this ocean. Having left Palmerfton's Ifland, we fl:eered wefl:, in order to proceed to Annamooka. We had variable winds, with fquaJls, fome thunder, and mtich rain. The fnowers being very copious, we fayed a conflderable quantity of water ; and. k f t li 140 A VOYAGE TO THE vM I '!l'l 'il as wc could procure a greater fupply in one hour, bv tl.e rain, tlran by diftillation in a month, we laid the ftill afidc, as being attended with more trouble than advantiVTC. The heat, whicli had continued in the extreme for about a month, became much more difagree- able in this clofe rainy weather, and we appre- hended it would foon be noxious. It is, how- ever, remarkable, that there was not then a fingle perfon fick on board either of the fliips. We palTed Savage IHand, which Captain Cook difcovered in 1774, in the night between the 24th and 25th ; and, on the 28th, about ten o'clock in the morning, we favv the iflands to the eaft- ward of Annamooka, bearing north by wed: about five leagues diftant. We fleered to the fouth, and then hauled up for Annamooka. At the ap- proach of night, the weather being fqually, with srain, we anchored in fifteen fathoms water. i!l: ■ »; rl 1' J; ^i!\-\ C H A P. pf' ts ■■{ »-■ ' •^ I m. i i 1 I }n^^H|^t i' i> ' wIb \ li'Bp 1 m i\ 1 ' ti i Ml M!l ' M - 1 iii' *"! 1 frfc- i 1^ ' ; ; ! 1^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) T 1.0 1.1 11.25 ■UUU ss '/A >> y ^'^ ^ Hiotographic .Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) $72-4503 ^ m X s ^ PACIFIC OCEAN. 141 CHAP. IV. Barter with the Natives of Komango and other IJlahdSy for Provifions, ^c. — Ai-rival at Anna- mooka — Variety of 'TranfaLlicns there — /I Vifit received from FejnoUy a principal Chief from Tongataboo — His Reception in the Ifland — Dines frequently on board the Rejoluiion — Several In- fiances of the pilfering Dijpcfition of the Na- tives — Punifhments infilled on them — Account of Annamooka — Proceed to llapaee, j WE had not long anchored, when two ca- noes paddled towards us, and came along- lide without delay or hefitation : there were four men in one of the canoes, and three in the other. They brought with them fome fugar-cane, bi^ad- fruit, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, which they bar- tered with us for nails. After thefe canoes had left us, we were vifited by another j but as night was approaching, he did not long continue with us. The ifland neareft to us was Komango, which was five miles diftant; this .Tiews how thefe peo- ple difrcgard trouble or danger, to get poflefTion of a few of our moft trifling articles. At four o'clock the next morning. Captain Cook iifpatched Lieutenant King, with two boats, to Komango, in order to procure refrefliments j I and 144 A Voyage to the and at fivCj made the fignal to weigh, to proceed to Annamooka. As foon as day-light appeared, w? were vifited by fix or feven canoes, bringing with them two pigs, fome fowls, feveral large wood-pigeons, fmall rails, and fome violet- coloured coots, be- fidcs fruits and roots of various kinds j which they exchanged with us for nails, hatchets, beads, &c. They had other articles of commerce, but Captain Cook gave particular orders that no cu- riofities fliould be purchafed, till the fhips were fupplied with provifion^, and till they had obtain- ed permiflioa from him. About noon, Mr. King's boat returned with feven hogs, ibme fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots J and alfo fome grafs for our animals. His party was treated with great civility at Komango. The inhabitants did not appear to be numerous; and their huts, which almoft joined to each other, were but indifferent. Tooboulangee> the chief of the ifland, and another, named Taipa, came on board with Mr. King. They brought a hog, as a prefent to Captain Cook, and promifed to bring fome more the next day. The boats being a- board, we flood for Anna- mooka ; and, having little wind, we intended to go between Annamooka-ette *, and the breakers at the fouth-eaft ; but, on drawing near, we met * Little Annamooka. with PACIFIC OCEAN. 14J with very irregular foundings, which obliged us to relinquifh the defign, and go to the fouth- ward. This carried us to leeward, and we found it neceflary to fpend the night under fail. It was dark and rainy, and we had the wind fronn every diredlion. The next morning, at day-light, we were farther off than we had been the preceding evening j and the wind was now right in our teeth. We continued to ply, to very little purpofe, the whole day; and, in the evening, anchored -ii thirty-nine fathoms water i the weft point of Annamooka bearing caft north-caft, four miles diftant. Tooboulangce and Taipa, agreeable to their promife, brought off fome hogs for Cap- tain Cook: we obtained others, by bartering, from the different canoes that followed us, and a large quantity of fruit. It is remarkable, that thofe who vifited us from the iflands, on that day, would hardly part with any of their commodities 10 any one but Captain Cook. At four the next morning, Captain Cook or- dered a boat to be hoifted out, and the mafter to found the fouth-weft fide of Annamooka. When he returned, he reported, that he had founded between Great and Little Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fathoms depth of water j that the place was very well llieltered from winds ; but that no frefh water was to be had but at a confiderablc diftance inlandj and that> even there, il t44 A VOYAGB TO THE it was neither plentiful nor good. For this vtry fufficient reafon, Captain Cook refolved to an- chor on the north-fide of the ifland, where, in his iaft voyage, he had found a convenient place for watering and landing. Though not above a league diftant, we did not reich it till about five o'clock in the after- noon, being retarded by the quantity of canoes that crowded round the Ihips, laden with abun- dant fupplies of the produce of their ifland. Several of thefe canoes, which were double, had a large fail, and carried between forty and fifty men each. Several women too appeared in the canoes, incited, perhaps, by curiofity to vifit us; though they were as earned in bartering as the men, and ufed the paddle with equal Ikill and dexterity. We came to an anchor in eighteen fathoms water, the ifland extending from eafl: to fbuth-weft, about three quarters of a mile dif- tant. Thus Captain Cook refumed the llation, which he had occupied when he vifited Anna- mooka three years before ; and probably where Tafman, who firfl: difcovered this ifland, anchored in 1643. The next day, during the preparations for wa- tering, Captain Cook went afliorej in -the fore- noon, accompanied by Captain Clerke, and others, to fix on a place for fetting up the obfer- vatorics^ the natives having readily granted us permiflion. They fliewed us every mark of ci- vility. PACIFIC OCEAK. U5 f ility, and accommodated us with a boat-hoiife, which anfwercd the purpofe of a tent. Toobou, the chief of the ifland, conduced Captain Cook and Omai to his houfe, fituated on a plcafant fpot, in the centre of his plantation. It was fur- rounded with a grafs-plot, which he faid was for the purpofe of cleanfing their feet, before they entered his habitation. Such an attention to cleanlinefs we had never obferved before, where- cver wc had vifited in this ocean j though we af- terwards found it to be very common at the Friendly Iflands. No carpet in an Englifti draw- ing-room could be kept neater, than the mats which covered the floor of Toobou's houfc. While we were on fhore, we bartered for fome hogs and fruit j and, when we arrived on board, the fhips were crowded with the natives. As very few of them came empty-handed, wo were fpeedily fupplied with every refrefhment. In the afternoon. Captain Cook landed again, with a party of marines; and fuch of the cattle as were in a weakly ftate, were fent on (hore with him. Having fettled every thing to his fa- tisfadion, he returned to the fliip in the evening, leaving Mr, King in command upon the ifiand. Taipa was now become our truily friend, and, in order to be near our party, had a houfe carried a quarter of a mile, on men's flioulders, and placed by the fide of the flied which our party occupied. Vol. I. — N^'j. 1* Our i)tf 14^ A VOYAGE TO THE Our various operations on fliore began the next day. Some were bufied in making hay, others in filling our water-calks, and a third party in cutting wood. On the fame day, Mefirs. King and Bailey began to obferve equal altitudes of the fun, in order to get the rate of our time-keepers. In the evening, Tajpa harangued the natives for fome time -, but we could only guefs at the fub- je6t, and fuppofed he was inftruding them how to treat us, and advifing them to bring the pro- duce of the ifland to market. His eloquence had the defired effeft, and occafioncd us to re- ceive a plentiful fupply of provifions the next day. On the 4th of May, the Difcovery loft her fmall bower anchor, the cable being cut in two by the rocks. We were vifited on the 6th, by a chief from Tongataboo, whofe name was Feenou : he was introduced by Taipa, as king of all the Friendly IQes, Captain Cook was now informed, that, on our arrival, a canoe had been urimediately difpatched to Tongataboo with the news j which occafioned his coming to Annamooka. We were informed, by the officer on Ihore, that, on his arrival, all the natives were ordered out to meet him, who faluted him by bov/ing their heads as low as his feet, the foles of which they touched with the palm of each hand, and afterwards with the back part. A perfonage received with fuch . - extra- PACIFIC OCEAN. H7 extraordinary marks of refpe^V, could not be fup- pofcd to be any lefs than a king. Captain Cook, in the afternoon, went to pay a vifit to this great man, having firft received from him a prefent of two fifh, brought on board by one of his attendants. As Toon as the Cap- tain landed, Feenou came up to him. He was tall and thin, and appeared to be about thirty years of age : his features were more of the Eu- ropean caft than any we had feen here. After the firft falutation. Captain Cook requefted to know if he was king ; as he entertained fome doubts on that fcore, perceiving that he was not the man whom he remembered to have feen in that charafler during his former voyage. Taipa ea- gerly anfwered for him, and mentioned no lefs than one hundred and fifty-three iQands, of which he was the fovereign. Soon after, our grand vi- fiter, attended by five or fix fervants, accom- panied us on board. Captain Cook made them fuitable prefents, and entertained them in a man- ner which he thought would be moft agreeable to them. Towards the evening, the Captain attendeil them on fhore in his boat, into which, by order of the chief, three hogs were conveyed, as a re- turn for the prefents he had received. We were then informed of an accident, the relation of which will convey fome idea of the extent of the authority exercifed here over the inferior people. L 2 While 14^ A VOYAGE TO TBI While Feenou was on board the Refolution, art inferior chief ordered all the natives to retir« from the pod we occupied. Some of them, how- ever, having ventured to return, he beat them mofl: unmercifully, with a large iHck. One, in particular, received fo violent a blow on the fide of the face, that the blood gufhed from his mouth and noftrils j and, after lying motionlefs for fome time, he was removed from the place in convulfions. The perfon who gave the blow, on being told that he certainly had killed the man, only laughed at the circumftance ; and, in- deed, it was very evident that he did not grieve for what had happened. We had afterwards the fatisfadlion of hearing, that the poor fufFerer was out of danger. On the 7th, the Difcovery having found her fmall bower anchor, fhifted her birth j but not till after her befl bower cable had met with the fate of the other. This day, Feenou dined with Captain Cook; and alfo on the next, when he was attended by Taipa, Toobou, and fome other chiefs. None but Taipa, however, was permit- ted to fit at table with Feenou, or even to eat in his prefence. The Captain was highly pleafed on account of this etiquette i for before the ar- rival of Feenou, he had generally a larger com- pany than he chofe, his table being overflowed with vifiters of both fexes. For though, at Ota- heitc, the females are denied the privilege of eat- ,. rACTPIC OCEAM. 146 ung in company with the men, this is not the pra6Vice at the Friendly Ifl.inds. A large junk axe having been ftolcn out of the fhip by one of the natives, on the firft day of our arrival at Annamooka, application was made to Feenou to exert his authority to get it rcftored ; who gave orders for that purpofe, which exadled fuch implicit obedience, that it was brought on board before we had tinilhed our dinner. We had, indeed, many opportunities of remarking, how expert thefe people were in thievery. Even Ibme of their chiefs were not afliamed of afbins; in that profelllon. On the 9th of May, one of them was detected carrying out of the lliip, the bolt belonging to the fpun-yarn winch, which he had carefully concealed under his clothes. For this offence Captain Cook fcntenced him to re- ceive a do?en lafhes, and to be confined till he paid a hog for his liberty. Though, after this circumftancc, we were troubled with no more thieves of rank, their fervants or flaves were conftantly employed in this dirty bufinefs ; and they received a flogging with as much feeming indifference, as if it had been upon the main- maft. When any of them were caught in the a6t of thieving, inftead of interceding in their l^ehalf, their mailers would often advife us to kill them. This being a punifhment we were not fond of infliding, they ufually efcaped without jioy kind of punifhment : they were alike infen- L 3 fible i I 150 A VOVACE TO THE fible of the fiiame and torture of corporal chaf- tifement. At It.igth, however, Captain Gierke contrived a mode of treatment, which wc fup- pofed had fonne effedt. Immediately upon detec- tion, he ordered their heads to be completely Hiaved, and thus pointed them out as objedts of ridicule to their countrymen, and put our people upon their guard, to deprive them of future op- portunities for a repetition of their thefts. Feenou was fo fond of 01 ir company, that he dined on board every day, though he did not al- ways partake of our fare. On the loth, his fer- vants brought him a mefs, which had been dreffed on fliore, confifting of fifh, foup, and yamsj cocoa-nut liquor had been ufed inftead of water, in which the fifh had been boiled or ftewed (per- haps in a wooden vefTel with hot ftones) and it was carried on board on a plantain leaf. Captain Cook tailed of the mefs, and was fo well pleafed with it, that he afterwards ordered fome fifh to be drcfTed in the fame way; but, though his cook fucceeded tolerably well, it was much inferior to the difh he attempted to imitate. Having, in a great meafure, cxhaufled the ifland of almoft every article of food, on Sun- day the iith of May, we rernoved, from the (here, the obfervatories, horfes, and other things that we had landed ; intending to fail as foon as the Difcovery fliould have found her beft bower anchor. Feenou, hearing that the Captain meant to procceJ ^ PACIFIC OCEAN. >5« proceet! to Tongataboo, carneftly entreated him to alter his plan j exprefling as much averfion to it, as if, by diverting him from it, he wiflicd to pro- mote fomc particular intereft of his own. He warmly recommended a group of iflands, called Hapaee, lying to the north-eaft j where, he af- fured us, we could be cafily and plentifully fup- plied with every refrefhment j and even offered to attend us thither in perfon. In confcquence of his advice, Hapaee was made "choice of j and, as it had not been vifited byanv Furopean fliips, the furveying it became an objed to Captain Cook. On Tuefday the 13th, Captain Gierke's anchor was happily recovered j and, on the morning of the 14th, we got under fail, and left An- namooka. Though this ifland is fomewhat higher than the other fmall ifles that furround it, yet it is Jower than Mangeea and Wateeooj and even thofe are but of a moderate height. The fhore, where our fliips lay, confifts of a fteep, rugged, coral rock, about nine or ten feet high, except two fandy beaches, which are defendeci fronci the fea, by a reef of the fame fort of rock. In the centre of the ifland there is a falt-water lake, about a mile and an half in breadth, round which the ground rifes with a gradual afcent, and we could not trace its having any commu- nication with the lea. On the rifing parts of the L 4 iQand, i.i !;■■! ■^ *.'Hf:',i ^>m> IS2. A VOYAGE TO TH£ ifland, and efpecialiy towards the fca, the Toil is either of a blackiih loofe mould, or a reddifli clay ; but there is not a flream of frefh water to be found in any part of the ifland. Tiie land here is well cultivated, except in a few places ; and, though fome parts appear to lie waftc, they are only left to recover the flrength exhaufted by conftant culture ; for we often faw the natives at v/ork upon thefe fpots, in order to plant them again. Yams and plantains form their principal plantations ; many of which are very extenfive, and enclofed with fences of reed about fix feet high. Fences of lefs compafs were often feen within thefe, furrounding the houfes of the principal people. The bread-fruit and cocoa- nut-trees are interfperfed without any regular or- der, but principally near the habitations of the natives. The other parts of the ifland, efpecially towards the fea, and round the lake, are covered with luxuriant trees and bufhesj among which there are a great many mangroves and fatanoo- trees. All the rocks and ftones about the ifland are of coral, except in one place, to the right of •the Tandy beach, where there is a rock of about twenty-five fee.t in height, of a calcareous ftone, and of a yellowifh colour j but, even here, fome large pieces are to be feen of the fame coral rock as that which compofes the fhore. We fometimes amufed ourfelves in walking up the country and fhooting wild ducks, refcmbling t our FACIFIC OCEAN. ^53 our widgeon, which are very numerous on the fait lake, as well as on the pool where we pro- cured our water. We found, in thefe cxcurfions, that the inhabitants frequently defcrted their houfcs to repair to the trading-place, without en- tertaining the leaft fufpicion that ftrangers would take away or dcftroy any property that belonged to them. From this circumftance it mis-ht be fuppofed, that mod of the natives were fomc- times coUeded on the beach, and that there would be no great difficulty in forming an accu- rate computation of their number j but the con- tinual refort of vifiters, from other iflands, ren- dered it impoflible. However, as we never faw more than a thoufand perfons collefted at one time, it may be reafonably fuppofed, that there are about twice that number upon the ifland. In the dire(5t track to Hapaee, whither we were now bound, to the north and north-eaft of Annamooka, a great number of fmall ides are feen. Amidft the rocks and flioals adjoining to this group, we were doubtful whether there was a free paflage for Ihips of fuch magnitude as ours ; though the natives failed through the intervals in their canoes: therefore, when we weighed an- chor from Annamooka, we fleered to go to the weftward of the above iflands, and north north- weft towards Kao, and Toofoa, two i Hands re- markable for their great height, and the moft v/efterly of thofe in fight. Feenou, with his at- tendants. i;; M 1 1 154 A VOYAGE TO THE tendants, remained in the Refolution till about noon, and then entered the large failing canoe, which had brought him from Tongataboo, and flood in amongft the clufter of iflands, of which we were now a- bread. They are fcattered, at unequal diftances, and moft of them are as high as Annamooka. Some of them are of two or three miles in length, and others only half a mile. Many of them have fteep rocky fhores, like Annamooka; fome have reddilh cliffs, and others have fandy beaches, extending almoft their whole length. In general, they are entirely clothed with trees, among which are many cocoa-palms, each having the appearance of a beautiful garden placed in the fea. The ferene weather we now had, contri- buted greatly to heighten the fcene ; and the whole might convey an idea of the realization of fome fairy land. It appears, that fome of tliefe iQands had been formed, as Palmerllon's Ifland was fuppofed to have been j for one of them is jiow entirely fand, and another has but a fingle bufh or tree upon it. In the afternoon, about four o'clock, we (leer- ed to the north, leaving Toofoa and Kao on our larboard. We intended to have anchored for the night, but it arrived before we could find a place in lefs than fifty fathoms water; and we rather chofe to fpend the night under fail, than come to in fuch a depth. ' la Pacific ocean. ^5S In the afternoon, we had been within two leagues of Toofoa, and obferved the fmoke of it feveral times in the day. There is a volcano upon it, of which the Friendly I (landers enter- tain fome fuperftitious notions, and call it Kollo- feea, faying, it is an Otooa, or divinity. We were informed, that it fometimes throws up very large ftones, and the crafer is compared to the fize of a fmall iflet, which has not ceafed fmok- ing in the memory of the inhabitants j nor have they any tradition that it ever did. We fome- times faw the fmoke from the centre of the ifland, even at Annamooka, the diftance of at lead ten leagues. We were told that Toofoa was but thinly inhabited, but that the water upon i. was excellent. At day-break, on the 15th, we were not far from Kao, which is a large rock of a conic fi- gure ; we fleered to the pafTage between Foo- tooha and Hafaiva, with a gentle breeze at fouth- eall. About ten o'clock, Feenou came on board, and continued with us all day. He brought with him a quantity of fruit and two hogs ; and, in the courfe of the day, feveral canoes came to barter quantities of the former article, which was very acceptable to us, as our flock began to be low. At noon, our latitude was 1 9° 49' 45" fouth, and we had made feven miles of longi- tude from Annamooka. After 1.^ I !! ,j6 A VOYAGE TO TI^B After having pafled Footooha, we met with a reef of rocks, and, there being but little wind, it was attended with fome difficulty ro keep clear of them. Having paffed this reef, we hauled up for Neeneeva, a fmall low ifle in the direftion of eaft-north eafl: from Footooha, in hopes of find- ing an anchorage, but were again difappointed : for, notwithftanding we had land in every direc- tion, the fca was unfathomable. We plainly faw, in the courfe of this night, flames ifluing from the volcano upon Toofoa. At day-break on the i6th, we fleered, with a gentle breeze at fouth-eafl, for Hapaec, which was now in fight j and perceived it to be low land, from the trees only appearing above the water. At nine o'clock we faw it plainly form- ing three iflands, nearly equal in fize j and, foon after, a fourth appeared tq the fouthward of thefe, as lar?e as anv of the others. Each of the iflands appeared to be of a fimilar height and appear- ance, and about fix or feven miles in length. The moft northern of them is called Haanno, the next Foa, the third Lefooga, and the fourth Hoolaiva ; but they are all four included under the general name of Hapaee. By fun-fet, we got up with the northernmofl: of thefe ifles, where we experienced the fame diflrefs for want of anchorage, that we did the two preceding evenings j having another night to fppnd under fail, with land and breakers in 4 ^very PACIFIC OCEAN* ^37 every diredion. Fcenou, who had been on board all day, went forward to Hapaee in the evening, and took Omai with him in the canoe. He was not unmindful of our difagreeable fituation, and kept up a good fire the whole night, by way of a land-mark. At the return of day-light, on the 17th, be- ing then clofe in with Foa, we perceived it was joined to Haanno, by a reef running from one ifland to the other, even with the furface of the fea. Captain Cook difpatched a boat to look for anchorage j and a proper place was found, a-breaft of a reef which joins Lefooga to Foa, having twenty-four fathoms depth of water. In this ftation, the northern point of Hapaee bore north, i6'eaft. We were not above three quar- ters of a mile from the fliore ; and, as we lay be- fore a creek in the reef, it was convenient landing at all times. V i.** i,t ""f ■' ■ ■ * CHAP. -1 t iii >!| 1S8 A VOYAGE TO THE C H A P. V. Arrhal at Hapaee — Friendly Reception there '^ Taipa harangues the People — Exhorts them not iofteal, ^c. — Prefents and Solemnities — Enter- tainment — Single Combats with Clubs — IVreJl- ling— Boxing — Female Boxing — Marines exercij- ed — A Dance by Men — Fir e- Works — Night En- ter fiinmsnts, conjijling of Singing and Dancing by Men and Women. AS foon as we had anchored, we were fur- rounded by a multitude of canoes, and our fhips were prefently fi?hd with the natives. They brought with them hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for cloth, knives, beads, nails, and hatchets. Feenou and Onnai having come on board, early in the morning, in order to introduce Captain Cook to the people of the ifland, he foon accompanied them on fliore for that purpofe. The chief condudted the Captain to a hut, f^tuated clofe to the fea-beach, which was brought thither but a few minutes before for his recep- tion. In this Feenou, Omai, and Captain Cook, were feated. The other chil^fs, and the multi- tude, appeared fronting them on the outfide j and they alfo feated themfelves. Captain Cook be- ing alked how long he intended to flay, anfwered 6 five I PACIFIC OCEAN. 159 five days. Taipa was, therefore, ordered to fic by him, and declare this to the people. He then harangued them in words nearly to the fol- lowing purport, as we afterwards were informed by Omai. He exhorted both old and young, to look upon Captain Cook as a friend, who meant to continue with them a few daysj and that, during his flay among them, they would not ileal any thing from him, or offend him in any other manner. He informed them, that it was expeded they Ihould bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the Ihips ; for which they would receive in exchange, fiich articles as he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had delivered his addrefs to the affembly, Feenou left them; on which Captain Cook was informed by Taipa, that it was necef- fary he fhould make a prefent to Earoupa, the chief of the ifland. The Captain being not unpre- pared for this, gave him fuch articles as far ex- ceeded his expeftation. This liberality created fimilar demands from two chiefs of other ifles who were prefent, and even from Taipa himfelf. Soon after he had made the lad of thefe prefents, Feenou returned, and exprefled his difpleafure with Taipa for fufFcring me to be fo lavifli of my favours. But this was, doubtlefs, a finefle, as he certainly aiSled in concert with the others. Feenou now relumed his fear, orderingEaroupa to fit by him, and harangue the people as Taipa • ■ . hud l.i i6o A VOYAGE TO THE had done, which he did nearly to the fame purpofe. Thefe ceremonies over, the chief, at tho Cap- tain's requefl, conduced him to the three ftagnant pools of what he called frefh water j in one of which the water was indeed tolerable, and the lituation convenient for filling our caflcs. On his return to his former ftation, he found a baked hog and fome yams, fmoking hot, ready to be conveyed on board for his dinner. He invited Feenou and his friends to partake of the repaft, and they embarked for the fhip, though none but himfelf fat down with us at table. Dinner being over, the Captain conduced them on fhorej and, before he returned, received, as a prcfent from the chief, a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams. We had a plentiful fupply of provifions, for, in the courfe of the day, we got, by bartering with the natives, about twenty fmall hogs,, together with a large quantity of fruit and roots. On Sunday the i8th, early in the morning, Feenou and Omai, who now flept on fhore with the chief, came on board, to requefl Captain Cook's prefence upqn .the ifland. He accompa- nied them, and, upon landing, was conduced to the place v/here he had been feated the pre- ceding day, and where he beheld a large con- courfe of people already affemblcd. Though he imagined that fomething extraordinary was in agitation. i 1 PACIFIC OCEAN. iCi agitation, yet he could not conjcdlure v^hat, nor could Omai giVe him any information. Soon after he was feated, about an hundred of the natives appeared, and advanced, laden with yams, plantains^ bread-fruit> cocoa-nuts, and fugar-canes; their burdens were depoliced on our left. A number of others arrived foon after, bearing the fame kind of articles, which were collefted into two piles on the right fide* To thcfc were fallened two pigs, and half a dozen fowls; and to thofe upon the left, fix pigs, an4 two turtles. Earoupa feated himftlf before the articles on the left fide, and another chief befor? thofe upon the right j they being, it was fup- pofed, the two chiefs who had procured them by order of Fecnou, who was as implicitly obeyed here, as he had been at Ahnamooka, and who bad probably laid this tax upon the chiefs of Hapaee for the prcfent occafion. When this munificent coUeftion of provlfions was placed in order, and advantageoufiy difpofed, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who form-* cd a circle round ^c whole. Immediately after, a number of men, arnied with clubs, ehtered this circle, or areaj where they paraded about for a few minutes, and then one half of them re- tired to one fide, and the other half to the other fide, feating themfelves before the fpeftators^ l*refently after, they fucceflively entertained us with fingle combats i one champion from one VoL.L— ji*3. M iid« l62 A VOYAGE TO THE fidc challenging thofc of the other fide, partly by words, but more by cxprcfTive gcftures, to fend one of their party to oppofe him. The challenge was, in general, accepted ; the two combatants placed themfelves in proper attitudes, and the engagement began, which continued till one of them yielded, or till their weapons were broken. At the conclufion of each combat, the vidlor fquatted himfdf down before the chief, then im- mediately rofe up and retired. Some old men, who feemed to prefide as judges, gave their plau- dit in a very few words j and the multitude, cf- pecially thofe on the fide of the conqueror, cele- brated the glory he had acquired in two or three loud huzzas. This entertainment was fometimes fufpended for a fhort fpace, and the intervals of time were filled up with wreftling and boxing- matches. The firft were performed in the method praftifed at Otaheite, and the fecond differed very little from the Englifh manner. A couple of ftout wenches next ftepped forth, and, without cere- mony, began boxing with as much dexterity as the men. This conteft, however, was but of fiiort duration, for, in the fpace of half a minute, one of them gave it up. The victorious heroine was applauded by the fpedlators, in the fame man- ner as the fuccefsful combatants of the other fex. Though we exprelTed fome difapprobation at this part of the entertainment, it did not hinder two other rorA^F Vovdtfi' (\in\v FJitKm ^'H-rrJtl. >^ ^J^OXJjyG-MdTCEL in J5ciR4iSE .^"^ ^i;il c PACIFIC OCEAN. «6j Other females from entering the lifts ; who feemed to be fpirlted girls, and, if two old women had not interpofed to part them, would probably have given each other a good drubbinc^. At leafi: three thoufand fpe<5tators were prefent when thefe com- bats were exhibited, and every thing was con- dueled with the moft perfect crood humour on all fides J though fortie of the champions, of both fexes, received blows which they muft have felt the effbft of for fome time afcer. The diverfions being finifhed, the chief in- formed Captain Cook that the p.ovifions on our right-hand were a prefent to Omai j and that thofcort our left (making about two- thirds of the whole quantity) were intended for him, and that he' might fuit his own convenience in taking them On board. Four boats were loaded with the munificence of Feenou, whofe favours far exceeded any that Captain Cook hud ever received from the fove- rcigns of any of the iflands which he had vifited in the Pacific Ocean. He, therefore, embraced the firft opportunity of convincing Feenou that he was not infenfible of his liberality, by beftowing upon him fuch commodities as he fuppofed were moft valuable in his eftimation. Feenou was Co highly pleafed with the return that was made him, that he left the Captain ftill indebted to him, by fending him two large hogs, fome yams, and a cortfid^rablc quwity of cloth. ^'" ' M 2 Feenou 164 A VOYAGE TO THE Feenou having exprelTed a defire to fee the ma- rines perform their exercife. Captain Cook or- dered them ail afhore on the morning of the 20th of May. After they had gone through various evolutions, and fired feveral voUies, which feemcd to give pleafure to our numerous fpedators, the chief, in his turn, entertained us with an exhi- bition, which was performed with an exaftnefs and dexterity, far rurpafling what they had ken of our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of dance, performed by men, in which one hundred and five perfons were engaged -, each having an inftrument in his hand, refembling a paddle, two feet and an half long, with a thin blade, and a fmall handle. With thefe inftruments various fiourifhes were made, each of which was accom- panied with a different movement, or a different attitude of the body. At firft, the dancers ranged themfelves in three lines, and fo changed their ftations by different evolutions, that thofe who had been in the rear came into the front. At one part of the performance, they extended themfelves in one line ; afterwards they formed themfelves into a femi-rircle ; and then into two fquare co- lumns. During the laft movement, one of them came forward, and performed a antic dance be- fore Captain Cook, with which the entertainirent ended. The mufic that accompanied the dances was produced by two drums, or rather hollow logs of wood. PACIFIC OCEAN. 165 wood, from which they forced fome varied notes by beating on them with two fticks. The dancers, howeveh, did not appear to be much aflifted or direfled by thefe founds ; but by a chorus of vocal mufic, in which all the performers joined. Their fong was rather melodious, and their cor- refponding motions were fo fkilfuUy executed, that the whole body of dancers appeared as one regular machine. Such a performance would have been applauded even on an European theatre. It far exceeded any attempt that we had made to entertain them ; infomuch that they feemed to plume themfelves on their fuperiority over us. They etteemed none of our mufical inftruments, except the drum, and even thought that inferior to their ov/n. They held our French-horns in the highcft contempt, and would not pay the fmallefl attention to them, either here or at any other of the illands. To give them a more favourable opinion of the amufements and fuperior attainmentsof theEnglifh, Captain Cook ordered fome fireworks to be pre- pared ; and, after it was dark, exhibited them in the prefence of Feenou, and a vaft niultitude of people. They were highly entertained with the performance in general 5 but our water and iky- rockets, in particular, aftonifhed them beyond all conception. They now admitted that th^ fcale was turned in our favour. 11 i i Ma Thi$, i66 A VOYAGE TO T^t Jl i This, however, ferved only as an additional ftimulus to urge them to jiroceed to freih exer- tions of their fingular dexterity. As foon as our fireworks were ended, a fucceflion of dances, which Feenou had prepared for our entertainnnent, began. A band of mufic, or chorus, confiding of eighteen men, feated themfelves before us, in the centre of a circle formed by the numerous fpe6tators. About four or five of the performers had each pieces of large bamboo, from three to fix feet in length, each played on by one man, who held it almoft vertically i the up^^er end of which was open, but the other clofed by one of the joints. They kept conftantly ftriking the ground, though flowly, with the clofe end, and thus produced variety of notes, according to the difFerei)t lengths of the inftruments, but all were of the bafe or hollow kind j which was counterajfled by a perfon vyho llruck nimbly a piece of the fame fubftance, fplit, and lymg upon the ground j furnifhing a tone as acute, as the others were grave and fo- lemn. The whole of the band (including thofe who performed upon the bamboos) fung a flow foft air, which -fo finely tempered the hariher notes of the inftruments, that the moft perfed judge of the modulation of fwcct founds could not avoid confining the vaft power, and pleafing efFedt, of this fimple harmony. About a quarter of an hour after the concert began, twenty women entered the circle, whofe < a heads -»>r t % PACIFIC OCBAN. ■^^7 heads were adorned with garlands of crimfon riowers J and many of their perfons were deco- rated with leaves of trees, curioufly fcolloped, and ornamented at the edges. They encircled thofe of the chorus, with their faces tov/ard& them, and began by finging a foft air, to which refponfes were made by the chorus; and thofe were alternately repeated. The women accdn- panied their fong with many graceful motions of their hands, and continually advancing and re- treating with one foot, while the other remained fixed. After this, they turned their faces to. the affembly, and having fung fome time, retreated (lowly in a body, and placed themfelves oppofitQ the hut, where the principal fpeftators fat. . One of them next advanced from each fide, paffing each other in the front, and progreflively moving till they came to the reft. On which two ad- vanced from each fide, two of whom returned, but the other two remained ; and to thefe, from each fide, came one by intervals, till they all had, once more, formed a circle about the chorus. Dancing to a quicker meafure now fucceeded, in which the performers made a kind of half-turn by leaping j then clapping their hands, and fnap* ping their fingers, repeated fome words in unifon with the chorus. As they proceeded in the danccj the rapidity of their mufic increafed j their gef- tures and attitudes were varied with wonderful dexterity j and fome of their motions would^ by M 4 an ■•■4 ■fe J 'II i6i VOYAGE TO THE an European, be thought rather indecent; though, perhaps, they meant only to difplay the aftonifli- ing variety of their movements. This famous ballet was fucceeded by one per- formed by fifteen men ; and, though fome of them were old, time fcemed to have robbed them of but little of their agility. They were difpofed in a fort of circle, divided at the front. Some- times they fung flowly, in concert with the chorus, making feveral graceful motions with their hands, but differing from thofe of the women j at the fame time inclining the body alternately to either fide, by raifing one leg outward, and reding on the other J the arm of the fame fide being aifo flretchcd upward. Then they recited fentences, which were anfwered by the chorus ; and occa- fionally increafed the meafure' of the dance, by clapping the hands, and quickening the motions of the feet. Towards the conclufion, the rapidity of the mufic and dancing fo much increafed, that the different movements were hard to be diftin- guifhed. This dance being ended, after a confidcrable interval, twelve other men advanced, placing themfeives in double rows, fronting each other. On one fide was ftationed a kind of prompter, who repeated feveral fentences, to which refponfes were made by the performers and the chorus. They fung and danced (lowly j and gradually grew quicker, like thofe whom they had fucceeded. The -' It i '' ■ '.I' i ■if iHi '^ lil,^ itr r- /-!■ W( ell ro th th wl th rii dc ca iiv fo ap ag th th ar d( m th of dj a c\ ac m PAC I F I C OCEAN. 169 The next who exhibited themfelves were nine women, v/ho fat down oppofite the hut where the chief had placed himfelf. A man immediately rofc, and gave the firft of thefe women a blow on the back with both his fifts joined. He treated the fecond and third in the fame manner ; but when he came to the fourth, he ftruck her upon the breaft. Upon feeing this, a perfon inftantly fifing up from among the crowd, knocked him down with a blow on the head, and he was quietly carried away. But this did not excufe the other five women from fo extraordinary a difciplinc ; for they were treated in the fame manner by a perfon who fucceeded him. When thefe nine women danced, their performance was twice dif- approved of, and they were obliged to repeat it again. There was no great difference between this dance and that of the firft women, except that thefe fometimcs raifed the body upon one leg, and then upon the other, alternately, by a fort of double motion. Soon after a perfon unexpectedly entered, making fome ludicrous remarks on the fireworks that had been exhibited, which extorted a burft of laughter from the crowd. We had then a dance by the attendants of Feenou : they formed ' a double circle of twenty-four each round the chorus, and joined in a gentle foothing fong, accompanied with motions of the head and hands. They alfo began with flow movements, which gra- 111! r i mm ijo A VOYAGE TO THE gradually became more and more rapid, and final- ly doled with fevcral very ingenious tranrpofiti- ons of the two circles. The feftivity of this memorable night con- cluded with a dance, in which the principal peo- ple affifted. In many rcfpcds it rcfcmbled the preceding ones, but they increafcd their motions to a prodigious quicknels, fhaking their heads from ihoulder to Hioulder, infomuch that they appeared in danger of diflocating their ncclcs. This was at- tended with a clapping of the hands, and a kind of , favage holla ! or flirick. A pei fon, on one fide, repeated fomething in a truly mulical recitative, and with an air fo graceful, as might put fome of our applauded performers to the blulh. He was anfwered by another, and this was repeated fevcral times by the whole body on each fide j and they fi- nifhed, by finging and dancing, as they had begun. The two laft dances were univerfally approved by all the fpedators. They were perfeftly in time, and fome of their geftures were fo expref- five, that it might jultly be faid, they fpoke the language that accompanied them. The theatie for thcfe performances was an open fpacc among the trees, bordering on the fea, with lights, placed at fmall intervals, round the infide of the circle. Though the concourfe of people was pretty large, their number was much inferior to that aflemblcd in the forenoon, when the ma- rines performed their CKercife, At that time many PACIFIC OCEAN. 171 many of our gentlemen fuppofed there might be prcfent five thoufand pcrfons, or upward j but Captain Cook fuppofcs that to be rather an ex- aggerated account. i'li CHAP. VI. Ciiptaln Cook makes an Excurfton into Lefooga-^ Defcription of that IJland — Occurrences there -^ A falje Report propagated — J Female Oculijl^^ Singular Method of Jhaving — 1'he Ships are re- moved to another Station — A remarkable arti- ficial Mount and Stone — Defcription of Hoo- laiva — Account ofPoulaho^ King of the Friendly IJles-~'The Commodore accompanies him on Shore-^ Departure from the Hapaee IJlands-^Kotoo de^ fcribcd — 'The Ships return to Annamooka — Meet^ ing ofPoulaho and Feenou — Both the Ships fir ike on the Rocks — Arrival at Tongataho, THE next day, which was the 21ft of May, Captain Cook made an excurfion into the Ifland of Lefooga, on foot, which he found to be, in fome refpe(5bs, fuperior to Annamooka, the plan- tations being not only more numerous, but alfo more extenfive. Many parts of the country, near the m m'.: i< tf ■ m » ' \ ^n -iWi J i V ft'ii tjz A VOYAGE TO THK the fea, are ftill wade; owing perhaps to the fandinefs of the foil. But, in the internal part of the idand, the foil is better; and the marks of confiderable population, and of an improved ftate of cultivation, are very confpicuous. Many of the plantations are enclofed in fuch a manner, that the fences, running parallel to each other, form fpacious public roads. Large fpots, covered with the paper mulberry-trees, were obferved j and the plantations in general, were abundantly flock- ed with fuch plants and fruit-trees as the ifland produces. To thefe the Commodore made fonli addition, bv fo wing the feeds of melons, puiiip- kins, Indian corn, &c. At one place was a houfe, about four times as large as the ordinary ones, with an extenfive area of grafs before it, to which the people probably refort on fome public occa- fions. Near the landing-place we obferved a mount two or three feet high, on which flood four or five little huts, wherein the bodies of ftme perfons of diftindiou had been interred. The ifland is but fiven miles in length j and its breadth, in fome places, is not above three miles. The eafl-fide has a reef, projefting confiderably, againfl which the fea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation of this reef that joins Le- fot ga to Foa, which is but half a mile cliftanr ; and, at low water, the natives can walk upon this reef from one ifland to the other. I'he fhore is firher a fandy beach, or a coral-rock. When mPm PACIFIC OC£ A ^f. 173 When the Captain returned from his excur^ fion, and went on board, he found a large failing canoe fattened to the ftern of the Refolution. In this canoe was I^tooliboula, whom the Com - modore had fecn, during his laft voyage, atTon- gataboo, and who was then fuppofed by him to be thK king of that ifland *. He could not be prevailed upon to come on board, but continued fitting in his canoe with an air of uncommon gravity. The iflanders called him Areekeey which fignifies King ; a title which we had not heard any of them give to Feenou, however extenfive his authority over them had appeared to be. La- tooliboula remained under the ftern till the even- ing, and then departed. Feenou was on board the Refolution at that time ; but neither of thefe chiefs took the fmalleft notice of the other. The next day, fome of the natives ftealing a tarpaulin and other things, Captr.in Cook applied to Feenou, defiring him to exert his authority, for the purpofe of getting them reftored j but this application was of no effed. On the 23d, as we were preparing to leave the ifland, Feenou and hi^ prime-minifter Taipa came along-fide in a ca- noe, and informed us that they were going to * In Captain Cook's narrative of that voyage, the namtf of this chief is faid to be KohageC'too Fallangcu, which is to-* tally different from LatooHhoula. This may perhaps be ac- counted for, by fuppofing one to be the name of the perfyn, aq.d the other the defcrtptioD of his rank or title. Vavaoo, W- 174 A VOYACSE to T«fi^ Vavaob, an ifland fituate, as they faid, aboiit two days fail to the northward of Flapaee. They af- furcd us, that the objeft of their voyage was to procure for us an additional fupply of hogs, be* fides fome red-feathered caps for Omai to carry with him to Otaheite j and defired us not to fail till their return, which would be in four or five days J after which Feenou would accompany us to-Tongataboo. Captain Cook confented to wa't the return of this chief, who immediately fet out for Vavaoo. On the 24th, a report was induf- trioufly fpread about by fome of the iflr ":^ers, that a Ihip refembling ours had arrive i -.ti iin- namooka fince we left it, and was now at anchor there. It was alfo reported, that Toobou, the chief of that ifland, was haftening thither to rt ceive thefe new vifiters. After enquiry, how- ever, it appeared, that this report was totally void of foundation. It is difficult fo conjedlure, what purpofe the invention of this tale could anfwcrj •unlefs we fuppofe it was contrived with a view of getting us removed from One ifland to tlu other. On Saturday the 25tli, Captain Cook went into a houfe where a woman was drefling the eyes of a child, who feemed blind. The inftruments ufed by this female occulift were two flender wooden probes, with which flie bruflied the eye fo as to make them bleed. In the fame houfe he fc-:uA another woman fliaving a child's head with u - • ' fliark's !RI,f PACIFIC OCEAN. 17 s fharic's tooth, ftuck into the end of a (lick : Ihe firft wetted the hair with a rag dipped in water, and then making life of her inftrnment, took off the hair as clofe as if a razor had been employed. Captain Cook foon after tried upon himfelf one of thefe remarkable inftruments, which he found to be an excellent fubftitiite. The natives of thefe iflands, however, have a different method of (having their beards, which operation they perform with two Ihells; one of which they place under a part of the beard, and with the other, ap- plied above, they fcrape off that part; in this manner they can (have very clofe, though the procefs is rather tedious. There are among them fome men who feem to profefs this trade : for ic was as common for our Tailors to go a(hore to have their beards fcraped off after the mode of Hapaee, as it was for their chiefs to come on board to be (haved by our ba^-bers. Captain Cook finding that little or nothing of what the ifland produced was now brought to the (hips, determined to change his ftation, and' to wait Feenou*s return in fome other anchoring- place, where we might (till meet with refrclh-' ments. We accordingly, on the 26th, made fail* to the fouthward along the reef of the ifland, and' having paffed feveral (hoals, hauled into a bay," that lies between the north end of Hoolaiva, and the fouth of Lefooga, and there anchored. Wc had no fooner caft anchor, than Mr. Bligh, Maf- ter t, mmmmm 176 A VOYAGE TO THE ter of the Refolution, was fent to found the bay where we were now ftationed -, and Captain Cook, accompanied by Lieutenant Gore, landed on the fouthern part of Lefooga, to look for frefh water, and examine the country. On the weft fide of the ifland, they obfervcd an artificial mount of confiderable antiquity, about forty feet high, and meafuring fifty feet in the diameter of its fum- mir. At the bottom of this mount was a ftone fourteen feet high, two and a half thick, and four I i, hewn out of coral-rock i and they were inr med by the ifianders, that not more than half its length was feen above ground. They called it 'Tangata Areekee * j and faid it had been fet up, and the mount raifed, in memory of one of their kings. On the approach of night, the Captain and Mr. Gore returned on board, and Mr. Bligh came back from founding the bay, in which he found from fourteen to twenty fathoms water, with a bottom principally of fand. Lefooga and Hoolaiva are feparated from each othqr by a reef of coral-rocks, dry at low water. Some of our gentlemen, who landed in the laft mentioned ifland, found not the fmalleft mark of cultivation, or habitation, upon it, except a fin- gle hut, in which a man employed to catch filh and turtle refided. It is remarkable that it ftiould * Tangatat in the language of thefe people, is man ; Areekte, king. remain ay >k, the :er, of :of md jm- :one four were than 'hey been one , the and r, in lioms each ^ater. Uft kof fin- fi(li ould 1 man; mam ii 'ff'M i ^ i b K V. tQ ^ JPACIFIC OCBAtI* 177 remain in this defolate condition, fince it com- municates fo immediately with Lefooga, which is fowell cultivated. The weft fide of it has a bend- ing, where there feems to be good anchorage; and the eafl; fide has a reef, as well as Lefooga. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount has been raifed upon it, equal in height to fome of the furrounding trees. , On Tuefday the 27 th, at break of day, the Commodore made the iignal to weigh s and as he intended to attempt, in his way to Tonga- taboo, a palTage to Annamooka, by the fouth- weft, among the intermediate ifles, he fent Mr. Bligh in a boat to found before the fhips. But before we got under fail, the wind became fo va« riable and unfettled, as to render it unfafe to at- tempt a paflage with which we were fo little ac- quainted : we therefore lay faft, and made (ignal for the Mafter to return^ He and the Matter of the Difcovery were afterwards fent, each in a boat, to examine the channels. Towards noon, a large failing canoe came under our ftern, in which was a perfon named Poulaho, or Futtafaihe, or both ; who was faid, by the natives then on board, to bfc king of Tongataboo, Annamooka, Hapaee, and all the neighbouring iflands. We were furprized to find a ftranger dignified with this title, which we had been .taught to believe appertained to another : but they perfifted in their aflertions, that the fupreme dignity belonged to Poulaho; and Vol. I, — n'*3. N now li I7« A VOYAbE TO tHfe now for the firft time acknowledged, that Fee- noii was not the king, but a fubordinate chief, though of great power. Poulaho was now in- vited by the Captain on board, where he was not an unwelcome gueft, as he brought with him two fat hogs by way of prefent. This great per- fonage, though not very tall, was extremely un- wieldy, and almoft (hapelcfs with corpulence. He appeared to be about forty ; his hair was ftraight, and his features confiderably different from thofe of the majority of his people. We found him to be a man of gravity and good fenfe. He viewed the (hip, and the various ncwobjefts, with particular attention ; and alked many per- tinent queftions. When he had gratified his cu- riofity in looking at the cattle, and other no- velties, hfe was requefted to walk down into the cabin ; to which fome of his retinue objected, faying, that, if he (hould go dowh thither, it would doubtlefs happen that people would walk over his head J a circumftance that could not be permit- ted. Though the Captain offered to obviate this objeftion, by "Ordering that no one fhould pre- lumc to walk over the cabin, Pdulaho waved all ceremony, and went down without any previous ftipulation. He now. appeared to be no Icfs fo^ Hcitous than his people were, to convince us that he was fovercign, and not Fcenoi*. He fat down to dinner with us, but eat and drank vei-y little j and afterwards defircd our Commodore to ac- company PACIEIC-OCJ^AN, »79 company him on fhorc. Omai was afked to be one of the party j but he was too faithfully at- tached to Feenou, to (hew much refpe<5l to his competitor, and therefore declined the invita- tion. Captain Cook attended the chief in his own boat, having firft made him fuch prefents as ex- ceeded his expeftationsi in return for which, Pou- laho ordered two more hogs to be fent on board.. The chief was then carried out of the boat, by his own fubjefts, on a board refembling a handr barrow J and immediately feated himfeif in a fmall houfe near the fhore. He placed the Captain at his fidci and his attendants formed a femi-circle before them, on the outfide of the houfe. An old woman fat clofe to the chief, with a kind of fan in her hand, to prevent his being incommoded by the flies. The various articles which his peo- ple had procured by trading on board the (hips, being pow difplayed before him, he attentively looked over them ail, enquired what they had gi"en in exchange, and, at length, ordered every thing to be returned to the refpe6live owners, except a glafs-bowl, which he referved for him- feif, Thofe who brought thefe things to him, firft fquatted thcmfelves down before him, then depofited their purchafes, and inftantly rofe and retired. They obferved the fame ceremony in taking them away ; and not one of them presum- ed to fpeak to him ftanding. His attendants, juft before they left him, paid him obeifance, by Bi* N- 2 bowing i8o A VOVAOI TO Tril n bowina: their heads down to the fole of his foof, and touching it with the upper and under Hde of the fingers of each hand. Captain Cook was charmed with the decorum that was maintained on this occafion, having fcarce feen the like any where, even among more civilized nations. When the Captain arrived on board, he found the Mailer returned from his expedition, who in- formed him, that, as far as he had proceeded, there was a paflage for the (hips, and tolerable anchorage ; but that, towards the fouth and fouth- caft, he obferved numerous fhoals, breakers, and fmall iflcs. In confequence of this report, we relinquifhed all thoughts of a paflage that way j and being refolved to return to Annamooka by the fame route 'which we had fo lately experienced to be a fafe one, we fhould have failed the next morning, which was the 28th, if the wind had not been very unfettled. Poulaho came early on board, bringing a red-feathered cap as a prefent to Captain Cook. Thefe caps were greatly fought after by us, as we knew they would be highly valued at Otaheite: but nc* one was ever brought for fale, though very large prices were offered j nor could a perfon in either fhip make himfelf the proprietor of one, except the two Captains and Omai. They are compofed of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, intermixed with the red fea- thers of the parroquet ; and are made in fuch a manner, as to tie on the forehead without any crown. PACIFIC OCEAN. 181 crown, and have the form of a femi-circ]e, whofc radius is eighteen or twenty inches. But the bed idea of them will be conveyed by Mr. Webber's reprefentation of Poulaho^ ornamented with one of thefe caps or bonnets. The chief left the Ihip in the evening j but his brother, whole name alfb was Futtafaihe,. and fome of his attendants, re* mained all night on board. On the 29th, at day-break, we weighed with a fine breeze at eaft north- eaft, and made fail to the weftward, followed by feveral failing canoes, in one of which was Poulaho the king, who, getting on board the Refolution, enquired for his bro- ther, and the others who had continued with us all night. We now found that they had (laid without his permilTion, for he gave them fuch a reprimand as brought tears from their eyes : however, he was foon reconciled to their making a longer ftay j for, on his departure from the ihip, he left his brother, and five attendants, oa board. We were alfo honoured with the com" pany of a chief named Tooboueitoa, juft then ar- rived from Tongatabooi who, as foon as he came, fent away his canoe, declaring, that he, and five others who came with him, would fleep on board ; fo that Captain Cook now had his ca- bin filled with vifiters. This inconvenience he the more willingly endured, as they brought with them plenty of provifions as prefents to him, for which they met with fuirable returns, ^r 3 In Ifc ,.i i if ii U i iib l82 A VOYAGE TO THE In the afternoon the eafterly wind was fuccceded by a frefh breeze at foiith fouth-eaft:. Our coiirfe being now fouth fouth-weft, we were obliged to ply to windward, and barely fetched the northern fide of Footooha by eight o'clock in the evening. The next day we plied up to Lofanga, and got foundings, under the lee or north-weft fide, in forty fathoms water j but the bottom being rocky, and a chain of breakers lying to leeward, we ftrctched away for Kotoo, expefting to find bet- ter anchorage there. It was dark before we reach- ed that ifland, where finding no convenient place to anchor in, we pafied the night in making (hort boards. On the 31ft, at break of day, we ftood for the channel which is between Kotoo and the reef of rocks lying to the weft ward ; but, on our approach, we found the wind ir.rufficient to lead us through. We therefore bore up on the outfide of the reef, and ftretched to the fouth- weft till near twelve o'.clock, when, perceiving that we made no progrefs to windward, and being apprehenfive of lofing the iflands while we had fo many of the natives on board, we tacked and ftood back, and fpent the night between Footooha and Kotoo. The wind now blew frefh, with fqualls and rain i and, during the night, theRe- folution, by a fmall change of the wind, fetching too far to the windward, was very near running full upon a low fandy ifle, named Pootoo Poo- tooa, encompaffcd with breakers. Our people ^ ' ' " * having '"- ' "^ PACIFIC OCEA?l. 183 having fortunately been juft ordered upon deck, to put the (hip about, and moft of thcnt being at their refpecftive ftations, the neceffary movements were performec^ with judgment and alertnef^j and this alone prcferved us from dcftrudlion. Th« Difcovery, being aftcrn, incurred no danger. This narrow efcape fo alarmed the natives who were on bQard> that they were eagerly defirous of getting afhore: accordingly, on the return of day -light, a boat was hoifted our, and the officer who commanded her was ordered, after landing them at Kotoo, to found for anchorage along the reef that proje^s from that ifland. During the abfence of the boat, we endeavoured to turn the Ihips through the channel between the reef of Kotoo and the fandy ifle j but meeting with a ftrong current againft us, we were obliged tode- 'fiftj and caft anchor in fifty fathoms water, the fandy ifle bearing caft by north, about the dif- tance of one mile. Here we remained till the 4th of June, being frequently vifited by the king, by Tooboueitoa, and by people who came from the neighbouring iflands to traffic with us. Mr. Bligh was, in the mean time, difpatched to foun4 the channels between the iflands fituate to the cafliward j and Captain Cook himfelf landed on Kotoo, to take a furvey of it. This ifland, on account of the coral reefs that environ it, ia fcarccly acceffible by boats. Its north- weft end i§ low j but it rifes fuddenly in the middle, and N 4 termi- V tr *'■« ^iU mn fl ¥^,1 P t^'im 184 A VOYAGE TO THE II! terminates at the fouth-eaft end in reddifh clayey cliffs. It produces the fame fruits and roots with the adjacent iflands, and is tolerably cultivated, though thinly inhabited. It is about two nnles in length. While the Commodore was walking all over it, our people were occupied in cutting grafs for the cattle j and we planted fome melon feeds. On our return to the boat, we paffed by fome ponds of dirty brackilh water, and faw a burying-place, which was confidcrably neater than thofe of Hapaee. We weighed in the morning of the 4th, and, with a frelh gale at eaft fcuth-eaft, made fail to- wards Annamooka, where we anchored the nexc morning, nearly in the fame ftation which we had fo lately occupied. Captain Cook foon after went on fhore, and found the iflanders very bufy in their plantations, digging up yams for traffic. In the courfe of the day, about two hundred of them affemblcd on the beach, and traded with great eagernefs. It appeared, that they had been very diligent, during our abfence, in cultivating; for we now ouferved feveral large plantain fields, in places which, in our late vifit, we had feen lying wafte. The yams were now in the higheft perfection ; and we obtained a good quan* tityofthem, in exchange for iron. Before the Captain returned on board, he vifited the feve- ral places where he had fown melon and. cucum- ber feeds i but found, to his great regret, that moll PACIFIC OCEAN. iSj moft of them had been deftroyed by vermin ; though fome pine-apple plants, which he hadalfo left, were in a thriving condition. On Friday the 6th, about noon, Feenou ar^ rived from Vavaoo, and informed us, that feve- ral canoes, laden with hogs and other proviiions, bad failed v/ith him from that ifland, but had been loft in he late tempeftuous weather, and every perfon on board of them had perifhed. This melancholy talq did not gain much credit with us, as we were by this time fufficiently acquaint-* ed with the charader of the relater. Tlie truth perhaps was, that he had been unable to procure at Vavaoo the expefled fupplies j or, if he ob- tained any there, that he had left them at Ha- paee, which lay in his way back, and where he rnufl: have heard that Poulaho had come to vifit us; who therefore, he knew, would, as bis fupe-. rior, reap all the merit and reward of procuring thefe fupplies, without having had any partici- pation of the trouble. The invention, however, of this lofs at fea was not ill imagined ; for we had lately had very ftormy weather. On the fuc- ceeding morning, Poulaho, and fome other chiefs,, arrived j at which time Captain Cook happened to be afbore with Feenou, who now appeared to be fnifible of the impropriety of his condud, in arrogating a chara<5ter to which he had no juft claim i for he not only acknowledged Poulaho a$ lb vereign of Tongatabop and the adjacent ifles^ • 4 * but ! !'l >''■ •I'i i86 A VOYAGE TO TH« but affcdtcd to infift much on it. The Captain left him, and went to pay a vifit to the king, whom he found fitting with a few of the natives before him j but, great numbers haftening to pay their refpefts to him, the circle incrcafed very faft. Wh«n Feenou approached, he placed him- fclf among the reft that fat before Poulaho, as attendants on his majefty. He at firft feemed to be fomewhat confufed and abalhed -, but foon re- covered from his agitation. Some converfation paffed between thefe two chiefs, who went on board with the Captain to dinner; but only Pou- laho fat at table. Feenou, after having made his obeifance in the ufual mode, by faluting the foot of his fovcreign with his head and hands, re- tired from the cabin ; and it now appeared, that he could neither eat nor drink in the king's prefence. On the 8th, we weighed anchor, and fteered for Tongataboo, with a gentle breeze at north- caft. We were accompanied by fourteen or jfif- teen failing vefTclii belonging to the iflanders, every one of which outran the fhips. The royal canoe was diftinguifhed from the reft by a fmall bundle of grafs, of a red colour, faftened to the end of a pole, and fixed in the ftern of the canoe in the fame manner £s our enfign ftaffs. At five in the afternoon we defcried two fmall ifiands, at the diftance of four leagues to the weftward ; one was called Hoonga Hapacc, and the other Hoon^ PACIFIC OCEAN. 187 ga Tonga. They are fituated in the latitude of 20" 2^' fouth, about ten leagues from the weftern point of Annamooka. According to the infor- mation of two iflanders who had been fent on board by Feenou as pilots, only five men refidcd on Hoonga Hapaee, and Hoonga Tonga had no inhabitants. We ftill proceeded on a fouth-weft courfe, and on the 9th faw feveral little iflands, beyond which Eooa and Tongataboo appeared. We had at this time twenty-five fathoms water, the bottom confiding of broken coral and fand; and the depth gradually decreafed, as we approach- ed the above-mentioned fmall ifles. Steering, by the direftion of our pilots, for the wideft fpace between thofe ifles, we were infenfibly drawn upon a large flat, on which lay innumerable rocks of coral, below the furface of the fea. Notwith- Handing our utmofl: care and attention to avoid thcfe rocks, we were unable to prevent the ihip from fl:riking on one 01 them : nor did the Dif- covery, though behind us, keep clear of them. It fortunately happened, that neither of the fliips ftuck faft, nor fuftained any damage. We ftill continued our courfe, and the moment v\ e found a place where we could anchor with any degree of fafety, we came tOj and the Matters "ere difpatched, with the boats, to found. Sc after we had caft anchor, feveral of the natives of Ton- gataboo came to us in their canoes j and they, as well as our pilots, aiTurcd us, that we fhould meet t'i } f F I < \- i88 A VOYAGE TO THE meet with deep water further in, free from rocks. Their intelligence was true j for, about four o'clock, the boats made a fignal of having found good anchoring ground. We therefore weighed, and flood in till daik, when we anchored in nine fathoms water, with a clear fandy bottom. During the night, we had fome rain i but ^arly in the morning, the wind becoming foutherly, and bring- ing on fair weather, we weighed again, and work- ed towards the fhore of Tongataboo. While we were plying up to the harbour, the king conti- nued failing round us in his canoe j and at the fame time there was a great number of fmall ca- noes about the fliips. Two of thele not getting out of the way of his royal vcffbl, he ran quite over them with the greatell unconcern. Among thofe who came on board the Refolution, was Otago, who had been fo ufeful to Captain Cook when he vifited Tongataboo in his laft voyage j 'and one Toobou, who had, at that time, attach- ed himfelf to Captain Furneau:?. Each of them ■ brought fome yams and a hog, in teftimony of .friendihipi for which they received a fuitab^c return. W^e arrived at our intended ftation abqut two o'clock, in the afternoon of the loth pf Jynvas a very convenient place, formed by the Ihbre ^pf Tongataboo on the fouth-caft, and two little ;lks on the caft and north-eaft. Here both our flups anchored over a fiiiuly bottom, where t\[e 'it,-: ... , .' defth t»ACIFIC OCEAN. 189 depth of water 'was ten fathoms. Our diftancc from the fliore exceeded a quarter of a mile. / CHAP. VII. 1.? Favourable Reception at ^ongataboO'^Biflribution of Porky Tarns, and Kava among the King*s At- tendants — "The Ships Jupplied with Water — l^he ■ Obfervatory ereSied — The Natives flock to our People from all garters — Excurfton of our Cap- tains to fee Mareewagee — Their Difappointment — Defcription of the Village where the Chiefs re- Jide — Interviews with Maree^vagee and Toobou-— Prejents from the King*s Son — A curious PFork of Art — Procefs of manufacturing Cloth — A grand Haiva given by Mareewagee —Exhibition of Fire- works — Wreftling — Boxing — Prefents of Animals to the Chiefs — Poulaho, Feenou, (^c, confned—^ The King's Prefent^ and Haiva. !• WE had not been long at anchor off Ton- gataboo, when Captain Cook landed on the ifland, accompanied by fome of the officers and Omai. They found the king waiting for them on the beach, who condudted them to a finall neat houfe near the woods, with an exten^ five 190 A VOYAGE to THE five irea before it, and told the Captain, that it was at his fcrvice during his continuance in the ifland. Before they had been long in the houfe, a large circle of the natives aflfembled before them, and feated themfelves upon the area. A root of the kava plant being brought to the king, he commanded it to be fplit into pieces, and dif- < tributed to feveral people, of both fexes, who began to chew it, and foon prepared a bowl of their favourite liquor. Meanwhile, a baked hog^ and a quantity of baked yams, were produced, and divided into ten portions. Thefe fhares were given to fome of thofe who were prefcnt, except one, which remained undifpofed of, and which was probably referved for the king himfelf. The liquor was next ferved out j and the firft cup be- ing brought to his majefty, he ordered it to be given to a perfon^ who fat near him : the iecond was alfo brought to him, which he kept : the third was given to Captain Cook> but, their mode of preparing the liquor having given him a diftalle for it, it was brought to Omai. The re- mainder of it was diftributed to different people j and one of the cups being carried to Poulaho's brother, he retired with this, and with his (hare of the pro vi (ions. Some others alfo withdrew from the circle with their portions, becaufc they could neither eat nor drink in his majefty*s pre- feiice : but there were others of an inferior rank> of both {^^^ts, who both cat and drank before him. :t :t? ) J Vhj£- n. ^m I ■ I ■ f-' ■ %. 1 '<>'!; 1' M; hi w ea m ar ki W( di wi Be m( be to COl wii rre hej fan wh hoi a ] Til dif] toe (cr bu for net the PACIFIC OCEAN. 191 him. Soon afterwards, the greatir part of them went away, carrying with them what they had not eat of their fhare of the feaft. It is worthy of re- mark, that the fervants, who diftributed the meat and the kava, delivered it fitting, not only to thd king, but to the others. Captain Cook, before he returned on board* went in learch of a watering-place, and was con* du<5ted to fome ponds, in one of which the water was tolerable, but it was at fome diftancc inland. Being informed that the fmall ifland of Pangi- modoo, near which the fhips were ftationcd, could better fupply this important article, he went over to it the next morning, and found there a pool containing frefher water than any he had met with among thefc iflands. This pool being ex- tremely dirty, he caufed it to be cleaned ; and here it was that we filled our wkter-calks. The fame morning, a tent was pitched near the hou(e which the king had afflgned for our ufe. The horfes, cattle, and flieep, were then landed, and a party of marines ftationed there as a guard. The obfervatory was fet up at an inconfidcrable diftance from the other tent ; and Mr, King took up his refidcnce on fhore, to dire^ft the ob- fervations, and fuperintend all other neceflary buiincfs. A party was occupied in cutting wood for fuel, and planks. foi the fiiips ; and the gun- ners were appointed to conduct the traffic with. the inhabitantJB, who flocked from all parts of the I iilaod 192 A VOYAGE TO THE ifland with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and other articles, infomiich, that our land ftation refem- bled a fair, and our Ihips were remarkably crowd- ed with vifitants. Feenou refiding in our neigh- bourhood, we had daily proofs of his opulence and generofity, by the continuance of his valu- able donations. Poulaho was equally attentive to us in this refped, as fcarcely a day pafTed with* out his favouring us with confiderable prefents. We were now informed, that a perfon of the name of Marcewagee was of very high rank in the ifland, and was treated with great reverence j nay, if our interpreter Omai did not mifunder- fland his informers, that he was fuperior to Pou- laho himfelf i but that, being advanced in years, he lived in retirement, and therefore was not in- clined to pay us a vifit. This intelligence ex- citing the curiofity of Captain Cook, he fignified to Poulaho his intention of waiting upon Maree- "wageej and the king having agreed to accom- pany him, they fct out the next morning in the pinnace. Captain Gierke joining them in one of his own boats. They proceeded to the eaftward of the little ifles which form the harbour, and then, turning towards the fouth, entered a fpa- cious bay, up which they rowed about three miles, and landed amidft a great concourfe of people, who received them with fhouts and ac- clamations. The crowd inftantly feparated, that Poulaho might pafs, who took our gentlemen into Pacific ocean. ^93 into a fmall cnclofure, and changed the piece of cloth he wore, for a new piece, very neatly folded t an old woman afTifted in drefllng him, and put a large mat over his cloth. Being now afked where MareeWagee was, he faid, td the great furprize of the gentlemen, that he was gone down to the fliips. Hov/cver, he requcfted them to accompany him to a malaee, or hoiife of public refort j and when they came to a large area before it, he feated himfelf in the path, while they, at his defire, walked up to the houfe, and fat down in the front. After waiting a little while, they repeated their enquiries, by the medium of Omai, whether they were to be introduced to Mareewagee? But receiving no fatisfatflory an- f.ver> and being inclined to fufpe6t that the aged chief was purpofcly concealed from them, they returned to their boats much piqued at their dif- appointment. It afterwards appeared, that Ma- ! eevvagee had not been there ; and that, in this affair, fome grofs miftakes had been made, Omai either having been mifinformed, or having mif- underftood what was told him concerning the old chief. The place our gentlemen went to was a very pleafant village, delightfully fituated on the banks of the bay or inlet, where moll of the principal perfons of the ifland refide. Each of thefc has his houfe in the midft of a fmall plan- tirion, with a kind of out-houfes, and offices for Vol. I. O fervants. ' 1 wm :t ^flB;ft . it; '" ^vR'^U j;|l i ;'' i '^■'Vi i \%\ '>8V LJ J Uu ' *^\ H ■ y 1 ; ■ :' ■: f. ' 1- ! > 1A ■■m\ ■71. ■m^-'i \: 'U 194 A VOYAGE TO THE Servants. Thcfc plantations arc neatly fenced round, and, in general, have only one entrance, which is by a door faftened on the infidt with a prop of wood. Between each plantation there are public roads and narrow lanes:. A confider- able part of fome of thefe enclofures is laid out in grafs-plots, and planted with fuch things as feein lefs adapted for ufe than for ornament. In fuch other plantations as were not the rtfidence of perfons of high rank, every article of the ve- getable produce of theifland was in great plenty. Near the public roads are fome large houfcs, with fpacious grafs-plots before them, which were h'n\ to belong to the king, and are probably the places where their public meetings are held. On Friday the 13th, about twelve o'clock, Ma- recwagee came within a fmall diftance of our p, fb on fliore, attended by a great number of people of all ranks. In the courfc of the afternoon, the two Captains, and others of our gentlemen, accom- panied by Fcenou, went alhore to vifit him. They found a perfon fitting under a tree, with a piece of cloth> about forty yards long> fpread before him, round which numbers of people were feated. They imagined that this was the great perfonage, but were undeceived by Feenou, who informed them, that another, who was fit- ting on a piece of mat, was Mareewagee. To him they were introduced by Feenou; and he re- ceived them very gracroufly, and defired them to PACIFIC 0CSA17. ^95 Ht down by him. The chief, who fat under the tree, was named Toobou, whom we (hall for the future call Old Toobou, to diftinguifli him from his namefake, who has been already mentioned as Captain FurneauA's friend. Both he and Ma» reewagee were venerable iii their appearance. The latter was flender in his pcrfon, and feemed to be near feventy years of age. Old Toobou was fomewhat corpulent, and almoft blind from a dif- order in his eyes: he was younger than Marec- wagee. Captain Cook not expedling on this oc- cafion to meet with two chiefs, had brought oi\ Ihore a prefent for one only : this therefore he was obliged to divide between them j but, as it happened to be confiderable, both of them ap- peared to be fatisfied. Our party now entertained them about an hour with the performance of two Frer.ih horns and a drum ; but the firing 'off a piftol that Captain Clerke had in his pocket, feemed to pleafe them moft. Before our gentle- men took their leave of the two chiefs, the large piece of cloth was rolled up, and prefenred to Captain Cook, together with a few cocoa-nuts. The next morning, Old Toobou came on board to return the Commodore's vifit : he alfo vifited Captain Clerke ; and if our former prefent was not fufficiently confiderable, the deficiency was not fupplied. In the mean time, Mareewagee went to fee our people who were ftationed on Hiorci and Mr. King Ihewed him whatever we O 2 had !l X :" i s rvH m !, * I m tg6 A V0YA6E TO tut had there. He was ftruck with admiration aC the fight of the cattle j and the crofs-ciit faw ri- vctted his attention. Towards noon, Poulaho came on board, bringing with him his fon, who was about tv/elve years of age. He dined with Captain Cookj but the fon, though prefent, wab not permitted to fit down with him. The Cap- tain found it very convenient to have him for his guefi: ; for, whenever he was prefent, (which was frequently the cafe) every other native was ex- cluded from the table, and few of them would continue in the cabin : whereas, if neither he nor Feenou were on board, the chiefs of inferior rank were very importunate to be of the dining party, or to be admitted at that time into the cabin, which became confequently very much crowded. The king was foon reconciled to our cookery, and was fond of our wine. He now refided at the malaee near our tent, where he this evening entertained our people with a dance, iu which he himfelf, though fo corpulent and un- wieldy, engaged. On the 15th, Captain Cook received a meffage from Old Toobou, importing, that he was dc- firous of feeing him on !hore. He and Omai accordingly waited on that chief, whom they found fitting, like one of the ancient patriarchs, under the fhade of a tree, with a large piece of cloth, the manufa generally fignifics that a thing is prohibited. Why they -vAjrc thus reftrained at prefent, was not accounted for. Having made prefents to them all, and gratified their curiofity by iliewing them every part of the fhip, the Captain conduced them alhore. When the boat had reached the land, Fecnou and feve- ral others immediately flepped out 5 and the young prince following them, was called back by Marcewagee, who now paid the heir apparent the fame obeifance which the king was accuf- tomed to receive j and when Old Toobou, and one of the old ladies, had honoured him with the fame marks of refpe«-t, he was fufFefed to land. After this ceremony, the old people ftepped out of the boat into a canoe, which was waiting to con* vey them to their place of refidence, Capt. Cook was pleafed at being prefent on this occafion, as he was thus furniihed with the moll convincing proofs of the fupreme dignity of Poulaho and his fon. By this time, indeed, he had gained fome certain in- formation with regard 19 the relative; fijuatlon of feveral PACIFIC OCEAM, 199 jeveral of the chiefs. He now knew, that old Toobou and Marecwagee were brothers. Both of them were men of very confiderable propertyi and in high eilimation with the people : Maree^ wagce, in particular, had obtained the honour- able appellation of Motooa Tonga^ which implies, father of Tonga, or of his country. We alfo now underftood, that he was the king's father-in-law, Poulaho having efpoufed one of his daughters, by whom he had young Fattafaihe ; fo that Ma- recwagee was grandfather to the prince. As for Feenou, he was one of the fons of Mareewagee| and Tooboueitoa was another. Captain Cook, on his landing, found Poulaho in the houfe adjoining to our tent, who imme- diately made him a prefent of a quantity of yams and a hog. Towards evening a number of the iflanders came, and having feated themfelvcs in a circle, lung in concert with the mufic of bamboo-drums, which were placed in the centre. Three of them were long ones, and two were Ihort. With thefe they ftruck the ground end^ wife. There were two others that lay fide by fide on the ground, one of which was partly fplit; on thefe a perfon continued beating with two flicks. They fung three fongs while the Cap- tain ftaidj and the entertainment lafled, after he left them, till ten o'clock. They burne4 tiie kavcs of the ivkarra palm for a light. ^ 4 In \ fni;i;^'' ' 200 A VOYAGE TO THE In the mean tiipe, Mr. Anderfon, with feveral others, made an excurfion into the country, which furnifhed him with obfervations to the followinsr cfFeft. Weftward of the tenr, the country for about two miles is entirely uncultivated, though covered with trees and bufhes growing naturally with the greateft vigour. Beyond this a pretty large plain extends itfelf, on which are cocoa-trees, and fome imall plantations. Near the creek, which runs veil of the tent, the land i'' perfcdly flat, and partly overflowed every tide by the Tea. When the water retires, the furface is feen to confift of coral-rock, interfperfed with holes of yellowilh mud i and near the edges, where it is rather more firm, are vaft numbers of little openings, V'hence iffue innumerable fmall crabs, v/hich fwarm upon the fpot, but are fo very nimble, that, when approached, they inftantaneoufly dif- appear, and baffle all the dexterity of the natives who endeavour to catch them. At this place is a work of art, which teftifies fome decree of in- genuity and perfeverance : on one fide is a nar- row caufeway, which, gradually increafing in breadth, rifes with a gentle afcent to the height of ten feet, where its breadth is five paces, the whole length being about feventy-four paces. Adjacent to this is a kind of circus, thirty paces in diameter, about one or two feet higluT than the caufeway that joins it; and in the middle of, ;his circus fome trcts are planctrd. On the op- ."^ • police ■M PACIFIC OCEAN, aoi ■*^'^ ■i pofite fide, another caufeway defcends, which is partly in ruins, and not above forty paces in length. The whole is built of large coral-ftones, with earth on the furface, which is overgrown with fhrubs and low trees. From its decaying in fe- veral places, it is probably of fome antiquity. It feems to be of no lervice at prefent, whatever may have been its ufe in former times. All the intelligence concerning it, that Mr. Anderfon could procure from the natives, was, that it was called EtcheCy and belonged to the king. In the morning of the i6th. Captain Cook and Mr. Gore took a walk into the country; in the. courfe of which they met with an opportunity of feeing the whole procefs of making cloth, the principal manufa(f>ure of tliefei (lands, as well as of many others in the South-Sea. An account of this operation, as performed here, may not impro^ perly be fubjoined. The manufadturers, who are pf the fcmale-fex, take the flender ftalks or trunks of the paper-mulberry, which rarely grows more than feven feet in height, and about the thicknefs of four fingers. From thefe ftalks they ftrip the bark, and fcrape off the. exterior rind j after which the bark is rolled up, and macerated for fome time in water j it is then beaten with a fquare inr- ftrument of wood, full of coarfe grooves, but fometimes with a plain one. The operation is often repeated by another perfon ; or the bark is folded feyeral times, and beat longer, which is r . . . probably \i ' ' t! '■■. I -i-^*i)r ' ' ' - tJ' ■' |, .) -. k''^ ^1 { i: V" 11 i) ■ m C02 A VOYAGE TO THB probably intended to clofe rather than divide iti texture. It is then fpread out to dry; the pieces being from four, to fix or fcven feet in length, and about half as broad. Thefe pieces are join- ed by fmcaring part of them with the glutinous juice of a berry called foco j and, after being thus lengthened, they are placed over a large piece of wood, with a fort of (lamp, compofed of a fibrous fubftance, laid beneath them. The manufac- turers then take a bit of cloth, and having dip- ped it in a juice exprefled from the bark of a tree called kckkat rub it briikly over the piece that is making. This leaves upon the furfacc a dry glofs, and a dull brown colour -, and the ftamp makes, at the ilime time, a flight imprcfTion, Thus they proceed, joining and ftaining by degrees, till ^ piece of cloth, of the rcquifitc length and breadth, is produced. They generally leave a border, about a foot broad, at the fides, and rather lon- ger at the ends, unft:ained. If any parts of the original pieces have holes, or are too thin, they glue fpare bits upon them, till ^heir thicknefs equals that of the reft. Whenever they are de- firous of producing a black colour, they mix the juice of the kokka with the foot procured from an oily nut called dooedooe. They afTert, that the black cloth^ with is ufually moft glazed, niakes a cold drefs ; but the other, a warm one. The Commodore and Mr. Gore, meeting with Feenou on their return from their cxcurfion, took him^ PACIFIC OCEAN. chief. 503 him, and another cliiet, on board to dinncri being ferved up, neither of them would eat a mor- fel, alledging that they were taboo avy ; but when they found, that, in drefling a pig and fome yams, no avy (water) had been made ufc of, they both fat down, and eat very heartily, and drank fomfe wine, on being alTured that there was no water in it. From this circumftance we inferred, that they were at this time, for fome particular reafon, forbidden to ufe water s or that, perhaps, they did not like the water we then ufed, it being taken out of one of the places where the iOanders bathed. The following day, which was the 17th, was fixed upon by Mareewagec for giving a gran4 halvat or entertainment, at which we were all in- vited to attend. Before the temporary hut of this chief, near our land ftation, a large fpace had been cleared for that purpofe. In the morn- ing, vaft nujnber? of the natives came in from the country, every one of whom bore on his (houlder a long pole, at each end of which a yam was fufpended^ Thefe poles and yams being de- pofitcd on each fide of the open fpace, or area, formed two large heaps, decorated with fmall fifh of different kinds. They were Mareewagee's prefent to the Captains Cook and Clerke. The neceflary preparations being made, the iilanders began, about eleven o'clock, to exhibit various dances, which they call mat. The band of mufic at 'Lm •(■'•;. l'M;'';ii|. iMk 'Hi 2L04 A VOYAGE TO THE ! at firfl confifted of feventy men as a chorus, amidft whom were placed three inftriiments that we called drums, though they did ngt much re- femble them. They are cylindrical pieces of wood, from three to four feet in length, fome of them twice as thick as a man of ordinary fize, and fbme not fo large. They are entirely hollow, but clofe 5t each end, and open only by a chink, about the breadth of three inches, running nearly the whole length of the drums, By this opening, the reft of the wood is hollowed ; which muft be an operation of fome difficulty. This inftrument is called by the natives mffai and, having the chink turned towards them,' they fit and beat vi- goroufly upon it, with two cylindrical pieces of wood, as thick as the wrift, and about a foot in Jength ; by which means a rude, but loud and powerful found, is produced. They occafionally vary the ftrength and rate of their beating ; and likewife change the tones, by beating towards the end, or in the middle of the inftriiment. There were four ranks, of twenty-fbur men each, in the fird dance. Thefc held in their hands a frnidl thin wooden inftrumenr, about two feet in length, refembling in its fliape an oblong pad- dle. With thefe inllrumcnts, which arc called ■paggCy they made many different motions j fuch as pointing them towards the ground on one fide, and inclining their bodies that way at the fame inftantj tlien fliifting them to the oppofit-c M^^ .in PACIFIC OCEAN. in the fame manner; pafTing them with great quicknefs from one hand to the other, and twirl- ing them about with remarkable dexterity ; with various other manoeuvres. Their motions, which were flow at firil, quickened as thf. drums beat fafter; and they repeated fentences the whole time in a mufical tone, which were anfwered by the chorus J but, in a Ihort time, they all joined, and ended with a (hout. After a ceflation of a few minutes, they began as before, and conti- nued, with fliort intervals, upwards of a quarter of an hour; and then the rear ra^k dividing, moved flowly round each end, met in the front, and formed the firft rank j during which time the whole number continued to recite fentences. The other ranks fucceflively did the fame, till that which was foremoft became the rear j and this evolution did not ceafe till the laft rank regained its former fituation. A much quicker dance, though flow at firft, was then begun, and they fung for ten minutes, when the whole body, in a two-fold divifion, retreated, and then advanced, forming a kind of circular figure, which con- cluded the dance ; the chorus retiring, and the drums being removed, at the fame time, . In the fecond dance, there were forty men as a chorus, with only two drums; and the dancers (or rather aflors) confided of two ranks, the fore- mofl: of which had feventeen perfons, and the. other fifteen. Feenou was in the middle of thc . . firft W : i I '•'■ I If^- ■m r^ n i 5-r ■ •iw'i^y I io6 A VPYAOE TO trtfe firft rank, which is confidercd, on thefe occafions, as the principal place. They danced and repeat- ed fentences, with very fhort intervals, for half* an hour, fomctimes flowly, and at other times quickly, with the higheft degree of exa^lnefs and regularity. Towards the clofe, the rear-rank divided, came rour^a, and occupied the place of the front, which afterwards refumed its priftine fituation. This dance being finiihed, the drums were taken away, and the chorus retired, as in the preceding dance. Three very large drums were now brought in, and feventy men ferved as a chorus to the third dance. This conflict d of two ranks, of fixteen men each, having young Toobou at their head, who was fplendidly ornamented with a kind of garment covered with red feathers. Thefe per- fons danced, fung, and twirled the pag^e, Co as to meet with the continual applaufes of the fpec^ tators, who were particularly pleafed with a mo- tion in which they held the face afide, as if afham- cd, with the pagge before it. The hindmoft rank clofed before the front one, which foon af- ter refumed its place, as in the firft and fecond dances: then beginning again, they formed a triple row, divided, retreated to each end of the area, and left the ground in a great meafure clear. Two men rulhing in at that inftanr, began to cxercife the clubs which they make ufe of in bat* tie* They firft twirled them in their h^ds^ and made PACtFIG OCEAJf. 167 made circular ftrokcs before them with great quicknefs, managing with fuch (kill, that, though they flood clofc to each other, they never inter- fered. They Ihifted the clubs, with uncommon dexterity, from one hand to the other j and, af- ter fomc time, kneeled down, and made various motions, tofling up their clubs in the air, and catching them as they fell. They then retired as haftily as they had entered. They had pieces of white cloth about their heads, faftened at the crown with a wreath of foliage round their fore- heads : and, that they might be free from all in- cumbrance, they had only a very fmall piece of cloth tied round the waift. A man, armed with a fpear, then rulhed in, and put himfelf in a me- nacing attitude, as if he intended to ftrike with his weapon at one of the people in the crowd ; at the fame time bfending the knee a little, and trembling as it were with fury. He continued in this pofition near a minute, and then moved to the other fide; where, having Hood in the fame pofture, he haftily retreated from the area. Du- ring all this time the dancers, who had divided themfelves into two parties, continued to repeat fomething flowly ; and they now came forward, and joined again, concluding the dance with ge- neral applau'fe. This dance was probably con- fidered as a capital performance, as fome of the principal people were engaged in it j one of the drums being beat by Futtafaihe^ the king's bro- ther. ■^^)r ■f v.t".;,' ,f ■4 I It ^ uv ■}, 20d A VOVACE to THfi ther, another by Fcenou> and the third by M^- recwagcc himfelf. In the fourth and laft dance, there were fortv men as a chorus, with two drums. The per- formers were fixty men, arranged in three rows, having twenty-four in front* Before they com- menced, wc were entertained with a preliminary harangue, in which the whole number made rc- fponfes to an individual fpeaker. They recited fcntences alternately with the chorus, and made \i/ith the pagge many quick motions. They di- vided into two parties, with their backs to each other J formed again, Ihifted their ranks (as in the preceding dances) divided, and retreated, being fucceeded by two men who exercifed thtir clubs, as before, after whom came two others ; the dancers in the mean time repeating in their turns with the chorus : they then advanced, and terminated the dance. Thefe amufements continued from eleven o'clock till near three. The number of iflanders who attended as fpedators, together with thofe who were round the trading-place at the tenr, or ftrag- gling about, amounted to at lead ten thoufand, all within the compafs of a quarter of a mile. If we had underftood what was fpoken in this en- tertainment, we might probably have gained much information with regard to the genius and cuftoms of thefe people. Though the fpeda- tors conftantly applauded the different motions, when PACIFIC OCEAM, fl09 when well made, a confidcrablc (hare oftheplca- fure they received, feemcd to arife from the fen- timental part, or what the performers recited. However, the mere adting part well deferved our notice, on account of the extenfivenefs of the plan, the variety of the motions, and the exa6l unity, cafe, and graccfulnefs, with which tliey were performed. In the evening we were entertained with the homai, or night-dances, on a large area before the temporary dwelling-place of Feenou. They con- tinued three hours j during which tim.c about twelve of them were performed, nearly in the fame manner as thofe at Hapaee. In two of them, which were performed by women, a party of men came and formed a circle within their's. In ano- ther, which confifted of twenty-four men, many motions that we had not before feen, were made with the hands, and met with great applaufe. The mufic was once changed in the courfe of the evening ; and, in one of the dances, Feenou him- felf appeared at the head of fifty men : he was well drefled in linen, and fome fmall pidlures were hung round his neck. Though the whole entertainment was condudled with better order than could reafonably have been expedted, yet our utmoft care and attention could not prevent our being plundered by the natives, in the moll daring and infolent manner. There was fcarcely any thing which they did not en- VoL. I. — n"4, J? deavour iio A VdYACE fO triE 1% dcavouf to Ileal. They once, in the middle of the day, r. tempted to take an anchor from oiT the Difcovery's bows ; but without efFeft. The only violence of which they were guilty, was, the breaking the fhoulder-bone of one of our goats ; in confequence of which flie died foon after. On V/ednefday the i8th, an iflander got ouc of a canoe into the Refolution, and Hole a pewter- bafon J but being deteded, he was purfued, and brought along-fide the Ihip. Upon this occa- ilon, three old women in the canoe made loud lamentations over the prifoner, beating their faces and breads with the palms of their hands in a very violent manner, but without (bedding a tear. This mode of cxprefTing forrow occa- fions the mark which mod of thefe people bear on the face, over their cheek- bones j for the re- peated blows inflidled by them on this parr, abrade the fl V4 Captain Cook Intending to leave behind him fome of thv-: animals he had brought, thought proper to make a dillribiition of thenn before his departure. He therefore, on the 1 9th, airembled the chiefs before our houfe, and marked out his intended prcfents to them. To the king he gave tl bull and a cow -, to Mareewageej a Cape ram, and two ewes j and to Feenou, a horfe and a marc. He inftru6kd Omai to tell them, that no fuch animals exifted within feveral months fail of their iflandi that we had brought them, with a great degree of trouble and expencc, for their ufc^ that, therefore, thvjy ought to be careful not to kill any of them till ihey had multiplied confi- derablyi and, finally, that they and their podc- rity ought to remember^ that they had received them from the natives of Britain. Omai alfo explained to them their refpe<5tive ufes, as far as his limited knowledge in fuch points would per- mit him. The Captain had intended to give old Toobou two or three goats; bur finding that chief indifferent about them, he added them to the ihare of Poulaho, It fjon appeared, that jfome of the natives were diffarisfted with the al- lotment of our animals i for, the next morning, twoof our turkey-cocks, and one kid, were mif- fing. Our Commodore being determined to get diem reftored, Riized on three canoc's that wac along-fide the ihipsj then went on. Ihore, and having found "his majefty, his brother, Feenou, and PACIFIC OCEAN. 21 and fome other chiefs, in onr hoiife, he immedi- ately appointed a guard over them, and intimated to them, that they mnft continue under rertraiht, till not only the turkeys and the kid, but the other things of which we had been plundered at various times, were reftorcd to us. They alTured Jiim, that the things in queftion fhould all be re- turned J and then (az down to drink kava, with an appearance of unconcern. Soon afterwards, an axe, and an iron wedge, were brought to us. Some armed natives, in the mean time, began to afiemble behind the houfe; but they difperfed when a part of our guard marched againft them ; and the chiefs, at the inftigation of the Commo- dore, gave orders that no more fhould appear. When he invited them to dine with him on board, they readily confented. Some of them having afterwards objected to Poulaho's going, he rofe up inimediatejy, and declared that he would be the firll man. Accordingly, the chiefs went on board with Captain Cook, and remained in the fhip till near four o'clock. He then conduced them afliore; and, not long after, the kid and one of the turkeys were reftored to him. On their promifing that the other turkey Ihould be brought back the next morning, he releafed both ibem and the canoes. Capuiii ( O'lk now walked out with Omai, with a view of ohfiuving how the natives in our neigh- bourhood idicdi i for this was th« ufw^l time of 2l6 A VOYAGE T THE ^HnxS^H 11 111 1 ■U|| 4.. li 1^^ their meals. He found that they were, in gene- ral, ill fuppliedj a circumftance not to be won- dered at, fincc moft of the yams, and other pro- vifions that they brought with them, were dif- pofed of to usj and they were unwilling to re- turn to their own habitations, while they could procure any fuftenance near our poll. That par- ticular part of the ifland, where our ftation was, being uncultivated, there were none of the na- tives who had a fixed refidence within half a mile of us. Thofe therefore who were at our poll, were obliged to live under trees and bufhes, or in temporary lliedsj and the cocoa-trees were ftripped of their branches, for the purpofe of crefting huts for the chiefs. Omai and the Captain, in the courfe of their walk, found fix or feven women at fupper toge- ther, two of whom were fed by the others. On their afking the reafon of this circumftance, the women replied, taboo mattee. Upon further en- quiry it appeared, that one of them, about two months before, had wafhed the corpfe of a chief, on which account fhe was not allowed to handle any food for five months ; and that the other had performed the fame office to the dead body of a perfon of inferior rank, and was therefore under a fimilar reftriftion, though not for fo long a fpace. On Saturday the 21 ft, early in the morning, Pou- Jaho came on board, to invite Captain Cook to an PACIFIC OCEAN. 217 baiva or entertainment, which he defigned to give the fame day. He had already had his head befmeared with red pigment, in order to com- municate a red colour to his hair, which was na- turally of a dark brown. The Captain, after breakfaft, attended him to the fhore, and found the iflanders very bufy in two places, fixing, in a fquare and upright pofition, four very long pofts, at the diftance of near two feet from each other. They afterwards filled up with yams the fpace between the pofts j and faftened fticks acrofs, from one poft to another, at the diftance of every four feet, to prevent the pofts from feparating, by the weight of the inclofed yams, and alfo to afcend by. As foon as the yams had reached the fummit of the firft pofts, they continued to faften others to them, till each pile was thirty feet or more in height. They placed, on the top of one of the piles, two baked hogs j and, on the top of the other, a living onej and they tied another by the legs half-way up. The facility and dif- patch with which thefe two piles were raifed, were remarkable. After they had completed them, they accumulated fome other heaps of yams, and alfo of bread-fruit, on each fide of the area j to wh'f h a turtle, and a great quantity of excellent fifti, were added. The whole of this, with fome red feathers, a mat, and a piece of cloth, com- pofed the king's prefent to Captain Cook, About gne o'clock the mat, or dances, were begun, Th(j r:, I i !■ ' ' I: ^ f? m 1 m li ■ ■ t 7 !i ■. ■■ 1 !4 ■ ' ■ II a- ■ J ml 2x8 A VOYAGE TO THB The fii'ft: of thefc very nearly refembled the firft that was performed at Mareewagee's entertain- ment. The fccond was conduded by young Tooboii ; and in this, four or five women were introduced, who equalled the men in the exadl- nefs and regularity o{ their motions. Near the end, the performers divided, in order to leave room for two champions, who excrcifed their clubs. In the third dance, which was the lafi:, two other men, with clubs, exhibited their fkill and adivity. The dances were fucceedcd by boxing and wreftling j and one man entered the lifts with a kind of heavy club, made from the ftem of a cocoa-leaf, but could meet with no opponent to engage him in fo rough a diverfion. Towards the evcningj 'the 3^>»ii/, or night-dances, began, in which the kiing himfelf, apparelled ih ' Englifli manufefturej was a performer : but nei- ther thefe, nor the dances in the day-time, were fo capital as thofe of Feenou, or Mareewagee. The Gommodorci in order to be prcffcnt the whole tinfve, dined on fhore. Poulaho fat down with him, but neither eat nor drank, which was owing to the prefence of a female, who had been admitted, at his requeft, to the dining party, and who, as we were informed in the fequcl, was of fuperior rank to himfelf. This lady had no fooner dined, t^han fhe walked up to Poulaho, who ap- ' plied hi. Hands to her feet j after which ilie re- tired. He immediately dipped hiis fingers into PACIFIC OCEAN, 119 a glafs of wine, and then all her attendants paid him obeifance. At his defire, fome of our fire- works were played off in the evening; but being damaged, they did not anfwcr the expefbation? 0{ the fpe(5lators. r I CHAP. VIIL m Some Officers plundered of their MuJketSy and other Articles^ ly the Nattve^-^Omai complains to the King gf this Outrage^^Confequences that it was probable might attend it — 4 l^ifi^ to Poulaho — » Defcription of a Fiatcoka — Country Entertain- ment at Poulaho*s Houfe — His Mourning Cere* mony-^BeaJlly Method of preparing Kava — Ac- count of Onevy'—Mejfrs, King and Anderfon viftt Futtafaihe — Entertained by him^Method of drejing Hogs, and carving them-^Manner of pajing the Night— ^Obfervations on the Country'^ Prepare for Departure — Defcription of the Ifland^ its Animals J VegetableSy t^c. NO more entertainments being cxpedlcd oa cither fide, and the curiofity of the popu- lace being in ^ great degree fatisficd, moft of them deferted us the day after Poulaho's haiva, StilJ, ^■^^^^Ujl , 1 '■ il_^l'-v" 1 ■■ '- ■ ■Hi^'^ ■ 1 : ^Bu« ■i[' ii?^^' u II lii; iM-;jV l-'i^'' hd 220 A V OVA OK TO Til 12 Still, however, we had thieves among us, and had continual inftances of their depredations. Some of the officers of botli Ihips, who had made an excurfion into the interior parts of the ifland, returned the 22d of Tune in the eveninf^ after an abfence of two days. They had taken their mufkets and neceflary ammunition with them, befides feveral fmall articles of the favourite commodities j the whole of which the natives had the dexterity to fteal from them, in the courfe of their fliort journey. Inconvenient confequences were likely to have attended this affair ; for, when our plundered travellers returned, they employed Omai, without confulting Captain Cook, to com- plain to the king of the treatment they had re- ceived. He, not knowing how the Captain ivolild proceed in this affair, and apprehending that he might again lay him under rellraint, fet off early the next morning, and Feenou followed his example J fo that not a chief of authority was now remaining in our neighbourhood. The Cap- tain was offended at this bufinefs, and repri- manded Omai for having prefumed to interfere in it. This reprimand induced him to endeavour to bring back his friend Feenou, and hefucceeded in his negociation, by affuring him that no vio- JeAt meafures would be purfued to oblige the natives to return what they had ftolen. Trufting to tliis declaration, Feenou came back in the '6 even- PACIFIC OCEAN. 22 I rf evening, and was favourably received. Poulaho alfo favoured us with his company the next day. Upon this occafion, the two chiefs very juftly obferved to Captain Cook, that, whenever any of his people wanted to take an excurfion into the country, they ought to be made acquainted with it, that they might order proper people to attend them, to prevent fuch outrages. And, had this precaution been taken, it is not to be doubted but that a man and his property would have been as fafe here, as in other parts of the more civi- lized world. Though the Captain did not after- wards endeavour to recover the articles taken upon this occafidn, the whole of chcm were re- turned, through the interpofition of Fecnou, ex- cept one muflcet, and a few other infigniiicant articles. By this time aifo, wc recovered the tools and other matters, that had been flolen from our workmen. On Wednefday the 25th of June, two boats, which Captain Cook had fent in fearch of a com- modious channel to fea, returned. The com- manders of them reported, that the channel to the north, through which we came in, was immi- nently dangerous, being full of coral rocks ; that there was a good channel to the eailward, though contracted, in one place, by the fmall iflands j -confequently a weilerly wind would be necelTary to get through it. \Ve had now recruited our ihips, and repaired our fails, and had little more to ^< '-r^.w. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A f/. ^ 1.0 IIJl 11.25 rai 125 ■ 2.2 ^ 13.6 ^B Ui lU u 14.0 2.0 I Mil m 1.4 ^ tnic Sdaices Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 872-4903 \ ^V [V •N? S> ;\ '^ ^^ > ■ ^ ill A VdYAcfe fa rat to cxpeft of the produce of the ifland j but, as an eclipfe of the fun was to happen on the 5th of July, the Captain determined to ftay till that time, to have a chance of obfcrving it. ' Having now fome leifure before us. Captain Cook, and a party of us, accompanied by Pou* laho, fet out the next morning, in a boat, for Mooa, a kind of village, where he, and the other men of confequence, ufually refide. Rowing up the inlet, we faw fourteen canoes fi(hing in company ; in one of which was Poulaho's fon. They had then taken fome fine mullets, about a dozen of which they put into our boat. They ihewed us their whole method of fiihing, which appeared to be an effefiiual one. Taking leave of the prince and his fiihing party, we were rowed to the bottom of the bay, and landed where we had done before, when we went to fee Mareewagee. As foon as we got on Ihore, we were condufted to one of Poulaho's houfes ; which, though tolerably large, feemed to be his private place of refidence, and was fituated within a plantation. The king feated himfelf at one end of the houfe, and thofe who came to vifit him, fat down in a femi- circle at the other end* A bowl of kava was immediately prepared for us, and dire£bions were given to bake fome yams. While thefe were getting ready, fome of us, to- gether with a few of the king's attendants, and Omai as our interpreter, went to take st view of a fiatooka^ P.' .f?'," i" --C- m^ r 'Is Hi: \t\ 4. i ^AC'lPlC OdEAN. '^23 Hdtooka, or burying-place, at a fmall diftance from the habitation. It belonged to the king, and confided of three largilh houfes, fituated oa a rifing ground, ^ith a fmall one not far off, all ranged longitudinally. The largcft of the three Hrft was the middle houfe, which was placed in a tjuare, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, and raifed about three feet. The other houfes were -placed on little mounts. On the floors of thefe houfes, as alfo on the tops of the mounts, were fine loofe pebbles ; and the whole was enclofed by large flat ftones of coral rock. One of the houfes was open on one fide, and two wooden bufts of men, rudely carved, were within it. We enquired of the natives who followed us (but durfk not enter here) what thefe images were i who informed us, that they were memo- rials of fome chiefs who had been buried there, and not meant as the repre fentatives of any deity. Such monuments, it is prefumed, are fcldom raifed; for thefe appeared to have been crcftcd many ages. ' We were informed that dead bodies had been buried in each of thefe houfes, but no marks of them were to be diftinguifhed. The carved head of an Otaheite canoe, which had been driven aihore on their coaft, was depofited in one of them. On the rifing ground was a grafs-plot, on which different large trees were planted j among which were feveral of thofe called etoa. 4 They f^ m-:^'' • u ^ i 4 20^ A VOYAGE TO THE .ms -They greatly refemble the cyprefs, and had a very folemn efFcfb. A row of low palms was alfo planted near one of the houfes. After refrefhing ourfclves with fome provifi- ons, which we had brought from our Ihips, we took a pretty large circuit into the country, at- tended by one of the king's minifters, who would not fuffer any of the rabble to follow us, and obliged thofe whom we met upon our progrefs, to fit down while we were pafling j a mark of re- fpeft due only to their fovereigns. The greateft part of the country was cultivated, and moft of their plantations fenced round. Some parts, in- deed, lay fallow, and others in a (late of nature -, the latter afforded large quantities of timber. We found many public and well- beaten paths, leading to different parts of the ifland. Travel- ling here was, indeed, very commodious, the roads being excellent, and the country level. Wc were conducted to feveral pools and fprings of water, but they were, in general, cither brackilh or {linking. In the duik of the evening, we returned from our walk, and found our fupper in readinefs. It confided of fome fifh and yams, and a baked hog, in which all the culinary arts of the ifland had been difplayed. There being nothing to amufe m after fupper, we lay down to fleep, according to the cuf:om of the country, on mats fpread .^9n the floor, and had a covering of cloth. The PACtFIC OCEANt 22< The king, who became happy with fome wine and brandy which we had brought, alfo flept in the houfe, as did feveral others of the natives* Be* fore day-break, they all rofe, and entered into converfation by moon-light. As foon as it was day, they difperfed different ways, but it was not long before they all rettirncd, accompanied by feveral of their countrymen. While they were preparing a bowl of kava^ Captain Cook went to pay a vifit to Toobou, Captain Furneaux's friend, who had a houfe not far diftant, which for fize and neatnefs was hardly exceeded in the place. Here alfo we found a company preparing a morning draught* The chief made a prefent to the Captain of a living hog, and one that was baked ; alfo a quantity of yams, and a large piece of cloth. Returning to the king, we found him and his attendants drink- ing the fecond bowl of kava. That bufinefs being performed, he informed Omai that he was immediately going to perform a mourning cere- mony, called toogey in memory of a fon who had been fome time dead, and defired us to accom- pany him. Naturally expeding to fee fomewhac new or curious, we readily complied with the requeft. The king ftepped out of the houfe, attended by two old women, and put on a new clothing, over which was placed an old ragged mat, which might probably have ferved his grandfather upon d^'^MLi Vol. L. •n' 4. a fimi-- 226 A VOYAGE TO THE a fimilar folemn occafion. His attendants were habited in the fame manner, excepting that, in point of antiquity, none of their mats could vie tvith that of their maftcr. Thus equipped, wc marched off, preceded by eight or ten perfons in the fame uniform, each of them having likewifc a green bough about his neck. Poulaho, wh^ held his bough in his hand till he approached the place of rendezvous, then alfo put it about his neck. We now entered a fmall inclofure, wherein was a neat houfe, and a man fitting be- fore it. As the company entered, they took the branches from their necks, and threw them away. The king feated himfelf, and the others fat be- fore him in the ufual manner. By the arrival of other perfons, the circle increafed to upwards of an hundred, principally old men, all drefled in the manner above defcribed. The company be- ing aflembled, a large root of kava was produced by one of the king's fervants, and a capacious bowl that would contain five or fix gallons. Many perfons now began to chew the root, and the bowl was filled with liquor up- to the brim* Others were employed in making drinking-cups of plantain leaves. The firft cup that was filled, being prefented to the king, he ordered it to be given to another perfonj the fccond was alfo prefented to him, and he drank it; the third Was offered to Captain Cook. Afterwards a cup was given to feveral others, till the liquor was exhaulled ; PACIFIC OCEANS 227 cihaufted; and, though not half the company partook of it, no one appeared in the leaft difla- tisficd. Each cup, as it was emptied, was thrown upon the ground, whence it was taken up, and carried to be filled again. All this time the chief, and his whole circle, fat with a great deal of gra- vity, hardly fpeaking a fyllable to each other. All this while we were in expeftation of feeing the mourning ceremony begin, when, to our great furprize, as foon as the kava was drank out, they all rofe up, and difperfcd; and Poulaho informed us, he was now ready to attend us to the fhips. We had fometimes feen the drinking of kava at other iflands^ but rto whefe fo frequently as here. The kava is a fpecies of pepper, which they efteem a valuable article, and cultivate for this purpofe, carefully defending the young plants from any injury j and it is ufually planted about their houfes. It does not often exceed the height of a man, though they are fometimes feen much higher. It has large heart-fhaped leaves, and jointed ftalks. Only the root of the kava is ufed at the Friend- ly Iflands : after being dug up, it is given to the fervants, who, breaking it in pieces, fcrape the dirt off, and each chews his portion^ which he afterwards fpits into a piece of plantain leaf. Thofe, who are to prepare the liquor, colle(5fc thefe mouthfuls together, arid depofit them in d large wooden bowl, adding a fufficient quantity 0.2 ' of m if. fi n '/A S!l8 A VOYAGE TO THt of water to make it of a proper ftrength. It is then well mixed up with the hands, and wrung hard, in order to make it productive of as much liquid as poHible. About a quarter of a pint of this beverapjc is nfually put into each cup. It has no perceptible cflfeft upon thefe people, who ufe it fo frequent- ly J but, on fome of ours, it operated like our fpirits, occafioning intoxication, or rather ftu- pefa(5lion. The mourning ceremony being over, we left Mooa, and fet out on our return to the ihips. Rowing down the inlet, we met with two canoes returning from filhing. Poulaho ordered them to approach him, and took from them every fifh and Ihell. He afterwards (lopped two other ca- noes, fearched them, and found nothing. He gave us fome of the fi(h, and the reft were fold by his fervants on board the (hip. Proceeding down the inlet, we overtook a large failing canoe, when every perfon on board her fat down till we had pafled ; even the man. who fteered, though he could not poflibly manage the helm, but in a ftanding pofture. Having been informed, by Poulaho and others, that there was fome good water at Oncvy, a fmall idand, about a league off the mouth of the in- kt} we landed there, in order to taft^ it, but found it to be extremely brackifh. This ifland is quite in a natural ftate^ and only frequented as a filhing- PACIFIC OCEAK. 229 fifhing-placc; having nearly the fame produc- tions as Palmerfton's ifland. When we returned to the (hip, Captain Cook was informed that every thing had been quiet during hir. .ibfencej not a finglc theft having been committed; of which Feenou, and Futta- faihc, the king's brother, who had undertaken the management of his countrymen in the Cap^ tain's abfence, boaftcd not a little. This evinces what power the chiefs have, when they are in- clined to execute it; which is not often to beex- pefted ; for whatever was ftolen from us, was ge- nerally conveyed to them. The next day, fix or eight of the natives af- faulted fome of our people who were fawing planks; in confequence of which they were fired on by the fcntry ; one of them was fuppofed to be wounded, and three were taken. The lat- ter were confined till night, when they were pu- nifhed, and fet at liberty. After this their be- haviour was very decent and circumfped; occa- fioned, as we imagined, by the man being wound- ed : for, till this time, they had only heard of the efFed of fire-arms, but now they had felt it. We were not miftaken in our conjedure, for Mr. King, and Mr. Anderfon, in an excurfion they took into the country, met with the very man, and found indubitable marks of his having been wounded with a mulket-balU 11; 1^1 Xf.1 in,\ %m m. %3 Nothing I: l^O A VOYAGE TO THE Nothing worthy ofnoticc happened at the fhips for two days -, we fliall therefore fill up that in- terval with an account of Mr. Anderfon's cxcur- fion, above-mentioned. On Monday the 30th of June, Mr. King, and he, accompanied Fut- tafaihe as vifitcrs to his houfe, which is not far from that of his brother Poulaho, at Mooa. Soon after they arrived, a largilh hog w.is killed, which was efVeflcd by repeated ftrokes upon the head. The hair was tiien curie ufly fcraped o(F, with the fharp edge of pieces of fplit bamboo, and the en- trails taken out by rhe fame fimple inftrument. Previous to this, an oven had been prepared, which is a large hole dug in the earth, the bot- tom of which is covered with ftones, about the fize of a man's fift, which are made red hot by kindling a fire over them ; then they wrapt up fome of thefc ftones in leaves of the bread- fruit-trcc, wich whigh they filled the hog's belly; fluffing in a quantity of leaves to prevent their falling out, and thrufting a plug of the fame kind in the anus. This being done, the carcafe was placed upon fome fticks laid acrofs the ftones, and covered with plantain- leaves. The earth was afterwards dug up all round -, and the oven being thus efl^edtually clofed, the operation of baking required no farther aid. They afterwards amufed themfrlves by walking about the country, but faw nothing remarkable, except a fiatooka of about thirty feet high. At a ' • Tmall PACIFIC OCEAN. 2Jt - fmal' diftance, there was a number of ctooa- trees, on which were vafl: quantities o^'Termte bats, making a moR horrible noife. Not having their muikcts, at this tinfie, they could not kill any of them, but fonne, taken at Annamooka, meafured almoft a yard, when the wings were extended. On their return to Futtafaihe's houfc, the baked hog was produced, accompanied with fomc cocoa-nuts, and feveral bafkets of baked yams. The perfon who prepared t! * hog in the morn- ing, now cut it up in a very mallerly manner, with a knife made of fplit bamboo. Though the weight of it was at lead fifty pounds, the whole was placed before them j when they took a fmall part, and defired the reft might be partaken of by the people fitting round. Futtafaihc could hardly be prevailed upon to eat a morfel. Dinner being ended, they went, with him, and his attendants, towards the fpot where Poulaho's mourning-ceremony was performed. They faw nothing but a kind of continuation of the fame folemn rites, by way of condolence. Upon en- quiring upon whofe account it was now tranf- acled, they were informed, that it was in me- mory of a chief who had long fince died at Va- vaooi that they had pradtifed it ever fince, and fliould continue to do fo for a confiderable length of time CO come. f^ h'f-. Q>4 Thej' 23 i A VOVAGl TO THE They were entertained, in the evening, with a pig for fupper, drefled like the hog, and, like that, accompanied with yanns and cocoa-nuts. When the fupper was over, a large quantity of cloth was brought for t?hem to fleep in j but they were difturbed in their repofe, by a fingular in- ftance of luxury, in which their men of confe- quence indulge themfelves j that of being thump- ed or beat while they are afleep. Two women, who f?.t by Futtafaihe, performed this operation, which they call tooge tooge, by ftriking his body and legs, \7ith both fids, till he fell afleep, and, with fome intervals, continued it the whole night. The perfon being faft afleep, they abate a little of the flirength and bhflcnefs of the beating; but, if they obfervc any appearance of his awak- ing, they refume it. In the morning they were informed, that Futtafaihe's women relieved each other, and went alternately to fleep. Such a pra6lice as this, in any other country, would be fuppofed to be deftrudive of all reftj but here it operates like an opiate, and flirongly fliews what habit may effetft. They let out with Futtafaihe the next morn- ing, and walked to the point, down the eaft-fide of the bay. The country all along this fide ap- peared to be well cultivated, but not fa much inclofcd as at Mooa. They found, that, in tra- velling, FuttaHiihe exercifed a power, whicrh /liewed the great authority the principal men are 4 invelled PACIFIC OCEAN*. 233 invefted with. To one place, he Cent for fifh j and to another, for yams ; and his orders were as rea- dily obeyed, as if he had been abfolute matter of all the people's property. They crofTed the bay, in the evening, to their ftation, in a canoe procured by Futtafaihc, by exercifing his authority in calling to the firft that appeared j he had alfo a large hog at this place, and wanted them to accept of a bundle of cloth; but, the boat being fmall, they objcftedj and he ordered it to be taken to them the next day. Thus ends Mr. Andcrfon*s account of his ex^ curfion. 'Captain Cook had prolonged his ftay at this ifland, on account of, the approaching eclipfe ; but, on looking at the micrometer, (on the 2d of July) he found fome accident had happened to it, and that it was rendered ufelefs, till re- paired i which could not be done before the time it was intended to be ufcd. We therefore got on board, this day, all the cattle and other ani- mals, except thofe that were dcftined to remain. The Captain defigned to have left a turkey-cock and hen, but two hens being dcftroyed by acci- dent, and wifhlng to carry the breed to Otaheitc, he refcrved the only remaining pair for that purpofc. We took up our anchor the next day, and moved the fliips behind Pangimodoo, to be ready for the Hrll favourable wind to take us through the I m fO'r''i^^ 2J4 A VOYAGE TO THE the narrows. The king, who this day dined with us, took particular notice of the plates ; which the Commodore obferving, made him an offer of one, either of pewter, or of earthen ware. He made choice of the firft, and mentioned the fcveral iifes to which he intended to apply itj two of which were fo very extraordinary that they deferve to be related. Whenever he fliould vifit any of the other iflands, he faid he would leave this plate behind him at Tongataboo, as his rcprefentative, that the people might, in his abfence, pay it the ho- mage due to himfelf in perfon. On being afked, how he had ufually been reprefented in his ab- fence, before he was in poffcflion of this plate, he informed us, that this fingular honour had always been conferred on a wooden bowl, in which he waftied his hands. The other ufe to which he meant to apply the plate inftead of the bowl, was to difcover a thief. When any thing had been ftolen, and the thief not deteded, the people were alTembled before him, when he wafh- cd his hands in this vefTel. After this it was cleaned, and every man advanced, and touched it with his hand., in the fame manner that they touch his foot when they ofTer him obeifance. If touched by the guilty perfon, he dropped down dead immediately ; and, if any one rcfufcd to touch it, fuch refufal was confidered as a luffi- cient prpof of his guilt. . In PACIFIC OCEAN. ^3S In the morning of Saturday the 5th of July, the day of the eclipfe, the weather was cloudy, with feme Ihowers of rain. About nine o'clock, the fun broke out at fmall intervals for about half an hour, but was totally obfcured juft be- fore the beginning of the eclipfe. The fua again appeared at intervals till about the middle of the eclipfe ; but was feen no more during the remainder of the day, fo that we could not ob- ferve the end. This difappointment was the lefs to be lamented, as the longitude was fufficiently determined by lunar obfervations. The eclipfe being over, we packed up the in- ftruments, and every thing was conveyed on board. None of the natives having t en any care of the three flieep allotted to Mareev. igee, the Commodore ordered them to be carried back to the (hips. He was apprehenfive that, if they had been left there, they would probably be de- ftroyed by dogs. Thefe animals did not exift upon the ifland in 1773, when the Commodore firft vifited it j but there is now a plenty of them j partly from the breed left by him, and partly from fome imported from an ifland, called Feejee. At prefent, howpver, the dogs have not got into any of the Friendly Iflands, except Tongataboo. Mr. Anderfon has given us the following de- fcription of this ifland. Amfl:erdam, Tonga- taboo, or Tonga (as it is fometimes called by the natives) is about twenty leagues in circum- ference. -• ^t- u [ 'f '4- ;. Itl i cim 23 fpecies of the fig, is the largeft fizcd tree upon the ifland j and the moft common bufties and fmall trees, on the uncultivated fpots, are the pandanus, the faitanoo, feveral forts of hibifcus, and a few others. The PACIFIC OCEAN. The climate of Tongataboo, from the fitua- tion towards the tropic, is more variable than in countries far within that line; though that might, perhaps, be occafioncd by the feafon of the year, which was now the winter folftice. The winds are generally from feme point between fouth and eaft. The wind, indeed, fometimes veers to the north-eaft, or even north-weft, but never con- tinues long, nor blows ftrong from thence, though often accompanied by heavy rain, and clofe fultry weather. The vegetable produ(5lions are never fo much afFcded, refpeding the foliage, as to (bed it all at once i but every leaf, as it falls, is fucceeded by another, which caufes the appearance of univer- fal fpring. A coral rock appears to be the bafis of the ifland, that being the only fort that prefents itfeif on the fhore. There was not the appearance of any other ftone, except fome fmall blue pebbles about the fiatookas, and the fmooth black ftone, of which the natives make their hatchets j and thefe have, perhaps, been brought from other iflands in the neighbourhood. Though, in many places, the coral proje6ts above the furface, the foil is, in moft parts, of a confiderable depth. In cultivated places, it is generally of a looffc black colour, feemingly produced by the rotten vegetables- I'i K' rir- < 't >y The 238 A yOYAGE TO THB I I r TKe prineipil of the cultivated fruits in thi^ ifland, are plantains, of which they have fifteen varieties; thejambu, and the eeevee.; the latter being a kind of plum ; and vaft quantities of Ihaddocks, as often found in a natural ftate as planted. Of yams there are two forts ; one black, and fo large as to weigh from twenty to thirty pounds ; the other white and long, feldom exceeding a pound in weight. There is a large root, called kappe J aijother like our white potatoes, called mawhaha} the talo, and the jeejce; They have vaft numbers of cocoa-nut-trees, and three other forts of palms. One is called beeoo> growing almoft as high as the cocoa-tree, and having very large leaves, plaited like a fan. The other is a kind of cabbage-tree, much refembling the cocoaj but rather thicker. A third fort is called ongo ongo j it feldom grows higher than five or fix feet. Plenty of excellent fugar-canc is cultivated here; alfo gourds, bamboo, tur- meric, and a fpecies of fig, called matte j but the catalogue of uncultivated plants is too large to be enumerated. There are no quadrupeds in this ifland> but hogs, dogs, and a few rats. Fowls of a large breed, are domefticated here. Among the birds, are parrots, and parroquets, cuckoos, king-filhcrS, and a bird of the thrufh kind, of a dull green colour, which is the only J finging- PACIFIC OCEAN. ^39 finging-bird we could find here ; but it compen- fates, in a great degree, for the want of others, by the force and melody of its voice. Among the other land-birds, are rails about the fize of a pigeon, of a variegated grey colour j a black fort with reddilh eyes j large violet coots, with red bald crowns j two forts of fly-catchers ; a fmall fwallow j and three forts of pigeons. Of water- fowl, are the ducks feen at Anna-** mookaj tropic birds j blue and white herons; noddies j white terns ; a new fpecies of a leaden colour J a fmall bluilh curlew ; and a large fpot- ted plover. Among the animals of the reptile, or infedb tribe, are fea-fnakes, (though often feen on fhore) about three feet long, with alternate black and white circles j fomc fcorpions, and centipedes : alfo green guanoes, about eighteen inches long, and two fmallcr forts. Here are fome beautiful moths and butterflies, and fome very large fpi- ders i together with others, making, in the whole, about fifty diflTerent forts of infefts. Though the fea abounds with fifti, the variety is lefs than might be imagined: thofe in the greatefl: plenty are mullets, filver fifli, old wives, parrot fifti, foles, leather jackets, albicores, bonne- tos, eels like thofe about Palmerfl:on's Ifland, rays, a fort of pike, and fome devil fifti. There are an endlefs variety of Ihell fifli about the reefs and flioals i among which are the ham- mer >. ' t ■• n Mi 'U| S't Q4^ A. VOYAGE TO THl II' I mer oyfter ; a large indentaxed oyftcr, and many others; but none of the connmon Ibrc; a gigan> tic cockle ; panamas ; cones ; pearl- (hell oyftcrs, &c. Alfo fcveral forts of fea-cggsj many cu- rious ftar-fifh ; crabs; cray>fifh> &c. and feveral forts of fponge. CHAP. IX. Strange Solemnity at Mooa^ called Natche, in Ha- nour of the King*s Son — Defcripion of many ex- traordinary ProceJjUons and Ceremonies during the firji Day — Manner of fupping and fpending the Evening at the King's Houfe — Defcription of the fecond Day*s Ceremony — Captain Cook ventures himjelf in the Midfi of the AJfembly — His Recep- tion there '-Arrival at Eooa — Some Account of \ that Ifland^ Weigh Anchor ^ and turn through the Channel, THOUGH we were now ready to fail, we had not fufficient day-light to turn through the narrows ; the morning flood falling out too early, and the evening flood too late. We were therefore under a neceflity of waiting twoor three days, unlefs we fhould be fortunate enough to have a leading wind« •:. .1 This \. 5 "i 5,1 .!''<. Bjyiyju^^ i' ml / fent i invite the ^ repair ty wai them us, t\ tain p with 1 cnjoy< Ab( rived numbi a fma buficd was n( fome ( rations was fo Abe large i the en ieveral recitin which contini many j a yam iaid dc Vol t> A c I p I c c £ A n; 241 • This delay gave us an opportunity to be pte- fent at a public folcmriityj to which the king had invited Us, and which was to be performed on the 8th. He and all the people of confcquencc repaired to Mooa on the 7th, where the folemni- ty was to be exhibited. Several of us followed them the next morning; Poulaho had informed us, that his fon was now to be initiated into cer- tain privileges j one of which was, that of eating with his father J an honour he had not hitherto enjoyed; About eight o'clock in the morning we ar- rived at Mooa, where we found the king,- with a number of. attendants fitting before him, within a fmall dirty enclofure. They wcre^ as ufiial^ buficd in prep'arihg a bowl of kava. As this was not liquor for us, we went to pay a vifit to feme of our frifcnds, and to obferve what prepa- rations were making for the ceremonyj which was foon expected to begin; About ten o'clock, the people afiembled in a large area before the malaeey or great houfe. At the end of a road, opening into this area, ftood feveral men with fpears and clubs^ inceffantly reciting Ihort fentenccs, in mournful accents^ which conveyed an idea of di/lrefs. This was continued about an hourj during which timei many people came down the road, each having a yam tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before thofe who continued repeating Vol. T,— n"4. R the- ii"* ■'<;«: -i \\mm I'l-ii HiJ^iW 242 A VOYAGE TO THE the fentenccs. At length, the king and prince arrived, and feated thcmfelves upon the area; and we were requcfted to fit down by them, to take off our hats, and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams having all entered, each pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over their flioulders. They afterwards formed themfelves into companies, of ten or twelve each, and marched acrofs the place, with a rapid pace, each company headed by a man who had a club or fpear, and defended, on the right, by fcveral others, armed with different weapons. About two hundred and Bfty perfons walked in the pro- ceflion, which was clofed by a man carrying on a perch a living pigeon. Omai was defired by Captain Cook to afk the chief where the yams were to be carried, with fo much folemnity ; but he feemed unwilling to give us the information we required ; fome of us, therefore, followed the proceflion, feemingly contrary to his inclination. They flopped before a tnorai or fiatooka of one houle (landing upon a mount, about a quarter of a mile from where they firft alTembled. Here they depofited the yams, and gathered them into bundles j but for what purpofe, we could not pof- iibly learn. Our prefence feeming to give them offence or uneafinefs, we quitted them, and re- turned to Poulaho, who advifed us to amufe ourfelves by walking about, as nothing would be done PACIFIC OCEAN. 243 done for a confidcable time. The fear of lofing the fight of any part of the ceremony, prevented our being long abfent. When we returned to the king, he defired Captain Cook to order the boat's crew not to prcfume to ftir from the boar, for every thing would, very foon, be taboo ; and if any of our people, or of their own, fhould be feen walking about, they would certainly be knocked down with clubs ; nay, mateedi that is, killed. He alfo informed us, that we could not be prefent at the ceremony ; but that we fliould be placed in fuch a fituation, as to be able to fee every thing that pafTed. Our drefs was particu- larly objedted to, and we were told, that, to qualify us to be prefent, we muft be naked as low as the breaft, and our hats muft be taken off, and our hair untied. Omai readily agreed to conform to thefe requifites, and immediately began to ftrip; but other objedlions were then ftarted, and he was excluded equally with ourfelves. Not relifliing this rcftriftion, the Captain ftole out, to fee what might now be going forward. Very few people, however, were to be feen, except thofe who were dreffed to attend the ceremony ; fome having in their hands fmall poles, about four feet in length, to the under part of which were faftened two or three other fmall fticks, about fix inches long. Thefe men were going towards the morai. Captain Cook took the fame ^ . R 2 road, I'i IM ;•* ,: I'F H': My Pi f 244 A VOYAGE TO THE road, and was frequently flopped by them, all crying out tahoo. However, he ventured to go forward till he came In fight of the moral, and of the people fitting before it. He was now ftrong- ly urged to go back, and, not knowing what might be the confequence of a refufal, he com- plied. He had obferved, that thofe who carried the poles, pafled the mcrai i and guefijng, from this circumftance, that fomething was tranfading beyond it, he had fome thoughts of advancing, by making a round for this purpofe j but he was fo narrowly obferved by three men, tliat he had no opportunity of putting his defign in execu- tion. In order to fhake off thefe fellows, he re- turned to the malaee, where he had parted from the king, and afterwards made an elopement a fecond time ; but he inftantly met with the fame three men, who had doubtlefs received inftruc- tions to watch him. He paid no attention to them, till he came within fight of the king's principal fiatccka or morai j before which a great number of people were fitting, being thofe whom he had jufl: before feen pafs by the other morai, from which this was but a little diftant. Seeing that he could obferve the proceedings of this compa- ny from the king's plantation, he repaired thi- ther, accompanied by feveral of his people. The number of perfons at the fiatooka, con- tinued increafing for fome time; and at length, they quitted their fitting pofture, and marched \ - • off PACIFIC OCEAN. 245 off In procefllon. They walked in pairs, every pair carrying, between them, one of the finall poles on their fhouklers. We were informed, that the fmall pieces of flicks, faftened to the poles, were yamsj it is therefore probable, that they were meant to reprefent this root emblema- tically. The hindmoft man of each couple placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if it were not ftrong enough to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all feemed to bend, as they proceeded. This procelTion confided of one hundred and e'crht pairs, and principally men of rank. Having feen them all pafs, we repaired to Poulaho's houfe, and faw him going out. We were not permitted to follow him; but were im- mediately condu6ted to the place allotted to us, behind a fence adjoining to the area o^ iht fiat oka where the yams had been depofited in the morn-^ Jfg. Arriving at our ftation, we faw two or three huiidred people, fitting on the grafs, near the end of the road opening into tlie area of the moral ; and others were continually joining them. At length, arrived a few men, euch carrying fome fmall poles and branches, or leaves of the cocoa- nut-tree. As foon as they appeared, an old man feated himfelf in the road, and pronounced a long oration in a ferlous inajcftic tone. He then retired, and the others advancing to the middle R of 1' % w ;fi 24^ A VOYAGE TO THE in 1 of the area, began to ercft a fmall Ihed or hut ; employing, for that purpofe, the materials al- ready mentioned. Their work being finilhed, they all fquattcd down, for a moment, before it, then rofe up, and joined the reft of the compa- ny. Poulaho*s fon arrived foon after, preceded by four or five men. After them appeared about twelve or fourteen women of the firft rank, ad- vancing flowly in pairs, each pair carrying be- tween them a narrow piece of white cloth, about two or three yards in length. They approached the prince, fquatted down before him, and wrap- ped fome of the pieces of the cloth round his body J they then rofe up, and retired in the fame order, to fome diftance on his left, where they feated themftlves. Poulaho now made his ap- pearance, preceded by four men, walking two and two abrcail, and fat down on his fon's left hand, at a fmall diftance from him. The young prince then quitted his firft pofition, and feated himfelf under the flied, with his attendants j many others placed themfelves on the grafs be- fore this royal canopy. The prince fat facing the people, with his back to the moral. Three companies, of about ten or a dozen men in each, ftarted up from among the < jwd, foon after each other, and, running haftjly to the opi-ofite fide, fat down for a few feconds ; and then re- turned, in the fame manner, to their former fta- tions. To them luccccdcd two men, each hav- ing PACIFIC OCEAN. 247 ing a fmall green branch in his hand, who vofc and advanced towards the prince, fitting down, for a few leconds, three different times, as they approached j and retired in the fame manner, in- clining their branches to each other as they fat. Afterwards two others repeated the fame cere- mony. The grand proceflion, which marched from the other moral, now began to come in. As they entered the area, they proceeded to the right of the flied, and, having proftrated themfelves on the grafs^ depofitcd their pretended heavy bur- thens (the poles), and faced round to the prince. They then rofe up, and retired in the fame or- der, clofing their hands with the moft (crious af- j^ecfb, and feated themfelves along the front of the area. While this numerous band were en- tering, and depofiting their poles, three men, who fat with the prince, continued pronouncing feparate fentences, in a mournful melancholy tone. A profound filence then enfued for a (hort time, after which a man who fat in the front of the area, began a kind of oration, during which, at feveral different times, he broke one of the poles which had been brought in. Having concluded his oration, the people, fitting before the fhed, Separated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants paflfed, aa4 the aflem- bly clolcd, R 4 Si^tif. ; ;.!' ;'!;''iv^^^* ill' t: !) . f ■ ii 1 • lit)-' ?4? A VOYAGE TO THE 1 Satisfied with what they had ah-eady feen, feme of our party now returned to the (hips ; but Cap- tain Cook, and fome more of the officers, re- mained.at Mooa, to fee the conclufion of the folemnity, which was not to he till the day fol- lowing. The fmall poles, which had been brought by thofe who walked in proceflion, being left on the ground, after the crowd had difperfed, the Commodore examined them, and found tiiat, to the middle of each, two or three fmajl (licks were tied, as has been related. They were pro- bably intended as only artificial reprefentations of fmall yams. Our fupper, confifling of fifli and yams, was got ready about feven o'clock. The king fup- ped with us, and drank fo freely of brandy and water, that he retired to bed with a fujfFicient dofe. We continued the whole nio-ht in the fame houi'c \yith him and his attendants. All, except Poulaho himlelf, rofe at day-break j foon after which, a woman, one of thofe who generally attended upon the chief, came in, and, fitting down by him, imrnediately began the fame operation which had been pratflifed upon Futta- faihc, tapping or beating gently, with her clinch- ed fills, on his thighs. This, inrtead of adding to his rcpofe, had the contrary efFc6t, and he. awoke. Captain Cook and OnfJai now paid a vifit to the prince, who had parted from us early the PACIFIC OCEAN. 249 pi'cceding evening; for he did not lodge wiih the king, but in apartments of his own, at fome diftance from his father's houfe. We found him with a circle of boys, about his own age, fitting before him ; and an old man and woman. There were others, of both fexes, employed about their neceflary affairs, who, probably, belonged to his . hpufhold. "We then returned to the king, who had a cfowded levee before him, confiding principally of old men. While a bowl of kava was pre- paring, a baked hog and yams, fmoking hot, were introduced; the greateft part of which fejl to our Ihare, for thefe people, efpecially the kava drinkers, cat very little in a morning. We afterwards walked out, and vifited feveral other chiefs ; all of whom were taking their . morning draught, or they had already taken it. Returning to the king, we found him afleep in a retired hut, with two women tapping or ftrikr ing on his breech. About eleven o'clock he arofe again, and ate fome filh and yams, and again lay down to fleep. We now left him, and waited on the prince, with a prefertt of cloth, beads, and other articles. There was afufficient quantity of cloth to make him a complete fuit, apd he was immediately clad in his new habili- ments. Proud of his drefs, he firll went to ex- 1 hjbit himfelf to his father, and then conduced Captain Cook to his mother, with whoip were ;.bouc r-n '..'•^:'X • ;,| ''■-■' .!!h « ' 250 A VOYAGE TO THE IM about a dozen other women of a very refpedlable appearance. Here the prince changed his ap- parelj and made Captain Cook a prefent of two pieces of the cloth which had been manufa6li]red in the idand. It was now about noon, when, by appoint- ment, the Captain repaired to the palace to din* ner; which was foon after fervcd up, and con- fided of two pigs and fome yams. The drowfy monarch was rouzed to partake of what he had appointed for our entertainment. Two mullets, and fome IhcU-filh, were introduced, as if in- tended for his feparate portion. But he added it to our fare, fat down with us," and made a very hearty meal. Dinner being over, we were informed that the ceremony would foon begin, and were ftri6tly enjoined not to venture out. The Commodore had refolved, however, to peep no longer from behind the curtain, but, if polTible, to mix with the aftors themfelves. With this view he walk- ed towards the moral, the fcene of the folemnity. He was frequently defired to return, but he paid no regard to the admonitions he received, and was permitted to pafs on. When arrived at the moral, he faw a number of men feated on the fide of the area. A few were alfo fitting on the pppofite fide, and two men in the middle, with their faces turned to the moral. When Captaip pook had got into the mi^ll qf the firft com- pany^ PACIFIC OCEAN. 251 pany, he was dcfired to fit down, which he ac- cordingly did. Where he fat, there were lying ajiumber of fmall bundles, compofed of cocoa- nut leaves, and faftened to flicks made into the form of hand- barrows. All the information he could get concerning them was, that they were taboo* From time to time, one or another of the company turned to thofe who were coming to join us, and made a ihort fpeech, in which we remarked, that the word arekee (king) was generally mentioned. Something was faid by one man that produced loud burfts of laughter from all around j others, of the fpcakers, were ^Ifo much applauded. The Captain was fre- quently defired to leave the place j but, at length, finding him determined to ftay, they requefl:ed him to uncover his ftioulders as theirs were. This he readily complied with, and then they no longer fepmed uneafy at his prefence. The prince, the women, and the king, at length appeared, as they had done the preceding day. The prince being placed under the Ihed, two men, each with a piece of mat, came, re- peating fomethjng in a very ferious ftrain, and put them about him. The people now began their operations, and different companies ran backward and forward acrofs the area, as in the former day. Prefently afterwards, the two men, in the middle of the area, made a fliort fpeech, and then the whole company rofe up, and placed them- ■fSI- ■!.■! ;(" U m' 252 A VOVAoE TO THE themfelves before the fhed in which the prince, and three or four men, were feated. One of the company, who feemed very defirous of obliging Captain Cook, procured him fuch a fituation, that if he could have made ufe of his eyes, nothing could have efcaped him. But it was neccffary to have a demure countenance and downcaft looks. The proceflion foon after arrived, as on the preceding day j a pole, with a cocoa-nut leaf plaited round the middle of it, being carried on the fhoulders of every two pcrfons. Thefe were depofited with the fiime ceremonies as on the day before. After this fucceeded another pro- cjeflion, copipofed of men who brought bafkets^ made of palm-leaves, fuch as are generally ufed by this people to carry provifions in. A third proceflion followed, in which a variety of fmall fifh, each placed at the end of a forked ftick, were brought. An old man, who fat on the prince's right-hand, without the fhed, received the bafketsj each of which he kept in his hand, making a fhort fpeech or prayer; then laying that afide, he called for another, repeating the fame kind of prayer j he proceeded in this manner till he had gone through the whole number of bafkets. Two men, who, till this time, had in- tji'-'ir hands green branches, and were feated on the left, received the fiih one by one, as they were prcfentqd to them on the forked flicks. The PACIFIC OCEAN. *5J firft fifli they laid down on their right, and the fecond on their left. The third being prefented, a ftoutifh man, ulio was feated behind the other two, endeavoured to feize it, as did alfo the other two at the fame time. Thus every fiili was con- tended for J but the man behind, on account of his difadvantageous fituation, got only pieces ; for he never quitted his hold, till the fifh was torn out of his hand. What the others got, were laid on the right and left. At laft the perfon behind got policflion of a whole fifh, the other two not even touching it. Upon this, the word mareeaiy (very good), was pronounced in a low voice throughout the whole crowd. It appeared, that he had now done all that was expe<5ted from himi for he did not contend for the other fifli. The perfons who brought in thefe bafkets and fiflj, delivered them fitting; and in the fame manner, Khe poles carried in the firft procefTion, liad been placed upon the ground. At the clofe of the laft proceiTion, there was fome fpeaking or praying by different perfons. Then, on a fig- nal being given, we all rofe up, ran feveral paces, and fat down, with our backs to the prince. The Commodore was requefted not to look behind him; but he was not difcouraged, by this in- jundlion, from facing about. The prince had now turned his face to the moraiy and from that moment he was admitted to the honour of eatin<^ with his father; and a piece of roalt- 1 I.* r^0M i ' . -g -m ■)■ id Ay ■'! ^i* A VOYAGE TO THE ! ed yam was prefentcd to each of them for that purpofe. 5oon after, we all turned about, forming a kind of femicircle before the prince, and leaving an open fpacc between us. Prcfcntly feme men advanced towards us, two and two, bearing large poles upon their fhoulders, waving their hands as they proceeded, and making a noife like fing- ing. When they came near us, they made a Ihew of walking quick, without advancing a fin- gle ftep. Several men, armed with large (licks, immediately ftarted from the crowd, and ran to- wards the new vifiters, but they inftantly made off, having thrown down the poles from their fhoulders. The others attacked the poles, and having beat them moll unmercifully, returned to their places. The former, as they ran off, gave the challenge ufed here in wrefllingj and, in a fhort time, fome luily fellows came from the fame quarter, repeating the challenge as they approached. Thefe were refilled by a company, who arrived at that inllant from the oppofite fide. Both parties, however, refjrncd to their own quarter, after having paraded about the area for Ibme minutes. Afterwards, for the fpace of half an hour, wrellling and boxing-matches fucceed- cd. Speeches were then delivered by two men, who fcated themfelves before the prince, with which the folemnity ended, and the whole af- iembly broke up. » / \ PACIFIC OCEAII. ass In vain did wc endeavour to find out the pur- port of the iblemnicy, called Natche. All the anfwer we received to our enquiries, was tabco ; which, as has been already obfcrved, is applied to many things. There was a myfterious folcm- nity in the whole tranfadtionj and fronn the manner of performing it, as well as the place where it was performed, it was evident, that there was a mixture of religion in the inftitutioiu Upon no occafion had they regarded our drefs and deportment ; but iiow it was required, that our hair fhould flow about our fhoulders; that we Ihould be uncovered tothcwaift; fit crofs- legged J and have our hands locked together. It ihould be obferved alfo, that none but the chief people, and thofe who were concerned in the ce- remony, were admitted to alfift in the celebra- tion of it. All thefe circumftanccs evidently pointed out, that they fuppofed themfelves act- ing under the infpcdtion of a Supreme Being, upon this occafion. Frcm the above account of the prcfent uafcbe, it may be confidered as merely figurative. The few yams which were feen the firft day, could net -be meant as a general contribution ; and it was intimated to us, that they were a portion confe- crated to the Otooa^ or Divinity. We were, however, informed that, in the fpace of three months, there would be reprefented a more important folemnityj on which occafion, * 1 ' the I'l ' \f zsS A VOYAGE TO THE the tribute of Tongataboo, Hapacc, Varaoo, ind all the other iflandsi would be brought to the chief, and more awfully confirmed, by facri- ficing ten human victims from anhongft the peo- ple. A horrid folcmnicy indeed ! On our en- quiring into the occafion of fo barbarous a prac- tice, we were informed, that it was a neceflary part of the Natchej and that, if omitted, the Deity would deftroy their king. The day was far fpent, before the breaking up of the aflembly j and as we were at fome diftaiicc from the fliips, we were impatient to fet out from Mooa; Taking leave of Poulaho^ he prefTcd us eariicfUy to flay till the next day, in order to be prefent at a funeral ceremony. The wife of Marcewagee, his mother-in-lawj had lately died j and, on account of the natche, her corps had been carried on board a canoe in the lagoon; Poulaho told Captain Cook, that when he had paid the laft offices to her, he would attend him to Eooa J but if he did not chufe to wait, that he would follow him thither. He would gladly have feen this ceremony, had not the tide been now favourable. The wind too, which had been very boifterous, was now moderate and fettled. Bc- fides, we were informed, that the funeral cere- monies would continue five days, which, as the Ihips lay in fuch a fituation, that we could not get to fea at pleafure, was too long a time to ftay. The Captain, however, aflurcd the king, that if PACIFIC OC£AN. -^-57 he did not immediately fail, he would vifit him again the next day. Whereupon we all took leave of him, and arrived at our fhips about eight o'clock in the evening. While the Commodore was attending the tjatche, at Mooa, he ordered the horfes, bull, and other cattle, to be brought thither, thinking they would be fafer there, than at a place that Would be, in a great meafure, deferted, the mo- ment after our departure. Befides, we had lefc with our friends here, a young Englilh boar, and three young EngliHi fows. They were exceed- ingly defirous of them, naturally fuppofmg that they would greatly improve their own breed, which jg but fmall. Feenou alfo got two rabbits from us, a buck and a doe, from which young ones were produced before we failed. If the cattle fucceed, the acquifition to thefe iflands will be great j and as ToujTataboo is a fine level coun- try, the horfes will be extremely ufeful. We weighed anchor on the loth, about eight o'clock in the morning, and, with a fleady gale, turned through the channel, between the fmall illes called Makkahaa and Monooafai. The flood, at firfl, let ftrong in our favour, till lead- ing up to the lagoon^ where the eaflward flood meets that from the wefl:. This, with the in- draught of the lagoon^ and of the flioals before it, occafions fl:rong riplings and whirlpools. Be- fides^ thefe difadvantages, the depth of the chan- VoL. I.^N" 5. S nci \ ^^' '. ■il.iU 4' I 258 A VOVACE TO THE nel exceeds the length of a rable ; confeqiiently there can be no anchorage, except clofe to the rocks, in forty and forty-five fathoms water, where a fhip would be expofed to the whirlpools. The Captain, therefore, abandoned the defign he liad formed of coming to an anchor, when wc ■were through the narrows, and afterwards of mak- ing an excurfion to fee the funeral. He rather chofe to be abfent from that ceremony, than to leave the fhips in fo dangerous a fituation. We plied to windward, between the two tides, till it was near high water, without either gaining or lofing an inch, when we fuddenly got into the in- fluence of the eaftern tide, where we expcdted the ebb to run ftrong to the caflward in our favour. It proved, however, very inconfiderable. Con- vinced that we could not gret to fca before it was dark, we anchored under the flioreof Tongataboo, in forty-five fathoms water. The Difcovery drop- ped anchor under our Itern ; but drove off the bank before the anchor took hold, and did not recover it till about midnight. After rcmainine in this ftation till eleven o'clock the next day, we weighed, and plied d the eaft- Ivard. At ten o'clock at night we weathered the caft end of the ifiand, and ftretched away for Mid- d.eburg, or Eooa (as the inhabitants call it) where we anchored, about eight the next morning, in forty fathoms water j being nearly the fame place whei^c <»ACIFIC OCEAN. ^5^ wh^re the Captain took his ftation in 177 3> when he named it EngUfl) Road, As foon as we had anchored, Taoofa the chief, and feveral of the natives, vifited us on board, and feemed rejoiced at olir atrival. This Taoofa had been Captain Cook's ^ayo when hfc was here in 1773, and therefore they were not ftrangefs to each other. The Captain accompanied him on Ihore in fearch of frefh water, the procuring of which was the chief objeft thlt brought him to lEooa. He had heard at Tongataboo of a ftream here, which ran from the hilJs into the feaj but this was not the cafe at preferit. He was con- du6led to a brackifli fpring, among rocks, be- tween low and high water mark. When they perceived that we did not approve of this^ we were Ihewn a little Way into the ifland ; where^ in a deep chafm, we found fome excellent water; ^hich, though attended with fori^ie troublCj might be conveyed to the fhorcj by mtans of fpouts or troughsj that might be provided for that purpofe : but rather than undertake that tedious taflc, the Captain contented himfelf with the fup[ ly the fliipS had received at Tongatabob. Before he returned on board, he began a traffic for hogs and yams. Oi the former, we could not procure many,- but of thfe latter, plenty. At this ifland We landed the ram and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope breed, and committed th«m to the care of Taoofa, who feemed delighted S a • witii 1 I \% ■ ,ii*i m '»« I 3. li 262 A VOYAGE TO THIJ fingle benevolent purpofe, exclufive of all other confiderations, would fufEciently prove that our voyages had not bpen ufelefs. We found, on this height, befides the plants common on the neigh- bouring ifles, a fpecies of acrojliciim^ melafiomay and fern-tree. All, or moftof theland on this ifland, we were told, belonged to the chiefs of Tongataboo; the inhabitants being only tenants, or vafTals, to them. This feemed, indeed, to be the cafe at ^ the neighbouring ifles, except Annamooka. >Vi) re fbmeof the chiefs feemed to act with fome kind of independence. Omai, who was much efteemed byFeenou, and many others, was tempted with the offer of being appointed a chief of this ifland, if he would continue among themj and he feemed inclinable to have accepted the offer, had he not been advifed to the contrary by Cap- tain Cook, though not becaufe he thought he would do better for himfelf in his native ifle. Returning from our country excurfion, we hear^ that a party of the natives, in the quarter where our people traded, had fl:ruck one of their owi^ people with a club, which fraiflured his fkull, and afterwards broke his thigh with the fame inftru- ment. No figns of life were remaining, when he was carried to a neighbouring houfe, but, in a fhort time, he recovered a little. On our de» firing to know the reafon of fuch feverity, we were informed, that he had been difcovercd in aa ., inde- PACIFIC OCEAN. indelicate fituation with a woman who was tahoo'd. We foon underftood, however, that Ihe was no otherwife taboo'd than by belonging to another perfon, who was fuperior in rank to her gallant. We difcovered from this circumftance, how thefe ' people puniQi fuch infidelities. But the female finner, as we were informed, has a much milder punilhment for her mifdemeanour, and only re- ceives a remonftrance and a very flight beating. Captain Cook, the next morning, planted a pine-apple, and fowed the feeds of melons, and other ariicles, in the chief's plantation. He had reafon, indeed, to fuppofe, that his endeavours of this kind would not be fruitlefs; for a dilh of turnips was, this day, ferved up at his dinner, which was the produce of the feeds he had left here in 1773. The Captain having fixed upon the 15th for failing, Taoofa prefied him to (lay a little longer, in order to receive a prefcnt which he had pre- pared for him> His entreaties, together with the daily expedlation of receiving a vifit from fome of his friends at Tongataboo, induced him to defer his departure. The next day he received from the chief the prefent j confiiling of two little heaps of yams, and a quantity of fruit, whicli fcemed to be collected as at the other ifles. On this occafion the greateft part of the inhabitants of the ifland had affembled j and, as we iiadmany . Itimes experienced on fuch numerous meetings S 4 among vm I '-a ■11- f: H.< ♦ !T-'. \l ..% I Mm in 264 A VOYAGE TO T H |S among their neighbouring idandeis, gave us no fnnall trouble to prevent their pilfering. Cud- gelling, wreftling, and boxing, were exhibited for our entertainments and in the latter, comba- tants, of both fexes, engaged. The diverfions were intended to have been finifhed with the bomaii or night-dance j but an accident happened that either put a total ftop to it, or, at leaft, pre- vented our (laying on (hore to fee it. One of our people was furrounded by twenty or thirty of the natives, fomc of whom knocked him down, ftrip-r ped him, and carried off all his clothes. Hearing of this, the Commodore feizcd two canoes, and a large hogi and infilled on the chief's not only caufing the apparel to be reftored, but alfo on the offenders being delivered up to him. Taoofa feemed greatly concerned at what had happened> and took the neceffary Heps to fatisfy him. The people who were affembled were fo alarmed at this affair, that moll of them immediately fled. How- ever, when they were informed that the Captain meant to take no other meafures to revenge the infult, they returned. One of the delinquents was foon delivered up to him, and a fhirt and a pair of trowfers reftored. The remainder of the Itolen goods not coming in before the evening, the Commodore was obliged to leave them, in order to go abos.rdj the fca running fo high, that it was extremely difficult for the boats to get out ^f the creek even with day-light, and would be '^- •'■ ' attended PACIFIC OCEAN, 5265 attended with much more danger in the dark. He came afhore again the next morning, bringing with him a prefent for Taoofa, in return for what he had received from him. Bting early, there were but few people at the landing-place, and even thofe few not without their fears and appre-p henfionsj but on the Captain's deflring Omai to aflTure them, that wc did not mean to injure them J and having reftored the canoes, and re-r leafed the offender, who had been delivered up to him, they refumed their ufual chearfulnels, and a large circle was prefently formed, in which the chief and the principal men of the ifland took their refpedlive places. ^ ;_;.....;., ,; - The remainder of the clothes were at length brought in, but, having been torn off the man's back by pieces, they were not thought worth carrying on board. Taoofa fhared the prefent he had received, with three or four other chiefs, refcrying a fmall part only for himfclf. This donation fo far exceeded their expectation, that a venerable old chief told the Captain, they were not deferving of it, confidcring how little he had received from them, and the ili treatment one of his people had met with. Captain Cook con^ tinuec with them, till they had emptied their bowl of kava -, and then, after paying for the hog, which he had taken the day before, returned on board, in company with Taoofa, and one of Pou- laho's fervants, by whon) he (cnt a piece of bar ; M * » t^ ^ • « A iron, i66 A VOYAGE TO TUB iron, as a parting m;:fk ofhis efteem for that chief, that being as valuable a pieftnt as any he couid poflibly make. We weighed foon after, and with a ligiu breeze at fouth-eaft, ftood out to fca, when Taoofa, afid foiije other natives, left us. We found, o« heaving up the anchor, that the cable had been much injured by the rocks. Befides this, we ex- perienced, that a mod aftonifhing fwell rolls in there from the fouth-weft. Prefently we obfcrv- 4pd a failing canoe entering the creek before which we had anchojied our (hips. A f«jw hours after, a fhiall canoe, condu£led by four men, came o^ to us : for, having but very little wind, we were ftill at no confiderable didaiice from the land. We were Lnibrmed, by thefe men, that tl>e failing canoe, which we had leeo arrive, had brought di- redions to the people of Eooa, to furniih \if> with Jiogs ; and that the king, and other chiefs, would be with us in the fpace of two or three days. They rctjuBikd, therefore, that we would re- turn to our fiim:ier ftation. There was no rea- fon to doubt the truth of this information y. but, being now clear of the land, it was not a fuffi- cient inducement to bring us back ; efpecially, as we had, already, a fufficient ftock of frelh pro- vifions to laft us in. our paiTag^ to Otaheite. Be- fides Taoofa*s prefent, w« received a large quan- tity of yams at Eooa, in ex/change for nails, &«, and added COD lidfrably to ouf fupply of hogs. . . ;.; • ]pinding PACIFIC OCEAN* 56? Finding that we would not return, thefe peopU left us in the evening, as did fome others, who had come ofF in two canoe§, with cocoa-nut* and (haddocks, to barter for what they could get ; their eagernefe to poflcfs more of our com- modities, inducing them to follow \\s out to fea^ and to continue their intercQuric iprii.li us even ta ^he lafl: ipomen^, , , , o , i la # .->.■■ ........ lan^o/tiosi* C H A P. X. 4nic? ' ^U the Friendly I/lands with Regret — Time mf mifemployed in vijiting the Friendly JJlands — Va-- riety of Refrejhments to be procured there — Num- ber of IJlands, amon^ which are KeppeVs and BofcawerCs IJlands — Account of Vavaooy Ha- may and Feejee — Method of calculating Bifiances by 1'ime-~'0mai incapable of giving exa^ Infor^ mation^^PerJons of the Inhabitants de/cribed-^ Their Difeafes — CharaSfer — Manner of wearing the Hair in both Sexes — Of pun6furing and paint- ing their Bodies — Their Habits — Ornaments, &fr. WE have now taken leave of the Friendly Iflands, and their inhabitants, after a cor* ^ial intercourfe with the latter for between two gnd thr^e months. Some di^erences, indeed^ ,^ur;3 occail* ' ! •" • I .k'f i^ .1. 1 "I ' ■?! I i6S A'VOV-ACE TO THE occafionally happen, on account of their natural propenfity to thieving, though too frequently encouraged by the negligence and inattention of our people. Thefe differences, however, were never attended with any fatal confequences j and few, belonging to our fhips, parted from their iriends without fonie regret. The time we con- tinued here was not thrown away j and as we, in a great meafure, fubfifted upon the produce of the iflands, we expended very little of our fea provifions. We carried with us a fufficient quan- tity of refrelhments, to fupply us till our arrival at another ftation, where we could again recruit. The Commodore rejoiced at having had an op- portunipy of ferving thefe poor people, by leav- ing fome ufeful animals amopg them j and that thofe intended for Otaheite, had acquired frelh llrength in the paftures of Tongataboo. The advantages we received by touching here, were great, and they were received without retarding the profecution of our great obje<5t: ; the feafon for proceeding to the north being loft, before we formed the refolution of vifiting thefe iflands. "".,. Iron tools are the beft articles for traffic here. j\:xes, hatchets, naijs of all fizes, knives, rafps, afid jfiles, are much demanded. Red cloth, white «nd coloured linen, looking- glaffes and bea^s, are alfo in great eftimation ; but, of the latter, thofe which are blue are preferred to all others, pfpccially. t|ie white ones. A hog might, at any time, PACIFIC OCEAN. 269 time, be purchafcd, by a firing of large blue beads : it fhould, neverthelefs, be obferved, that articles, merely ornamental, may be highly ef- teemed at one time, and difregarded at another. On our firft arrival at Annamooka, the people were unwilling to take them in exchange for fruit } but, when Feenou arrived, his approbation of them brought them into vogue, and ftamped them with the value above-mentioned. In leturn for the commodities juft enumerated, all the refreflim.cnts that the iflands produce may be procured. The yams, produced by the Friendly Iflands, arc excellent, and, when grown to per- fection, preferve well at fea : but their pork, plantains, and bread-fruit, are inferior in quality to the fame articles at Otaheite. Good water is fcarce in thefe iflands. It may be found, indeed, in all of them, but not to ferve the purpofes of navigators j for either the fituations are too inconvenient, or the quantities too inconfiderable. Whilft we lay at anchor under Kotoo, we were informed, that there was a ftream , of water at Kao, which ran from the mountains into the fea, on the fouth-weft fide of the ifland. This intelligence may probably de- fcrve the attention of future navigators. We muft include, under the denomination of Friendly Iflands, not only the group at Hapaee, but alfo thofe which have been difcovered to the north, nearly under the fame meridian, as well as -ai^* fbme T ( I I 1 : ■ 1 ; ■ I '.;; r H'i f .:#! ajo A VOYAGE TO THB fome others undci the dominion of Tongataboo> which is the capital, and feat of government. From the beft information we could receive, this archipelago is very cxtenfive. One of the natives enumerated one hundred and fifty iflands: and Mr. Andcrfon procured all their names. Sixty- one of them are marked up>on our chart of the Friendly Iflands, and upon the fketch of the har- bour of Tongataboo. Keppel's and Bofcawen's Iflands, two of Captain Wallis's difcoveries in 1765, are doubtlefs comprehended in Mr. An* dcrfon's lifl:. • But the mofl; confiderable iflands that we heard of in this neighbourhood, are Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee-, each of which is larger thr-« Ton^ gataboo j but it does not appear that j Euro- pean has ever yet ktn any one of them. Hamoa lies two days fail north-weft from Va* vaoo. It is faid to be the largeft of all their iflands i affords harbours and good water, and produces, in abundance, all the articles of rc- frefliment that are found at the places we vifited. Poulaho frequently refides upon this ifland j and the people here are in high cftimation at Ton^ gataboo. Feejee lies in the dircftion of north-welt by weft, about three days fail from Tongataboo. It abounds with hogs, dogs, fowls, and fuch fruits and roots as are to be found in any of the others, And i» much larger than Tongataboo i but not •J..: fub- l»AClPrC OCEA^. 471 fubjcft to its dominion, as the Other iflands of this archipelago are. Fcejee and Tongataboo often engage in war again ft each other ; and the inhabitants of the latter arc often fo much afraid of this enemy, that they bend the body forward, and cover the face with their hands, to exprcls the fenfe of their own inferiority to the Fccjec men. This is, indeed, no matter of fwrprize, for thofe of Feejec have rendered themfclvcs formid- able, by their des'terity in the ufe of bows and flings ; but more fo^ by their favage pra6lice of eating fiich of their enemies as they kill in battle. It has h':en infifted on, that extreme hunger firft occafioned men to feed on human flelh ', but where could be the inducement for the Feejec people to continue the praftice in the midft of plenty ? It is held in deteftation by the inhabi- tants of Tongataboo, who feem to cultivate the friendfliip of their favage neighbours of Feejec through fear ; though they, occafionally, venture to fkirmifli with them on their own territory, and carry off large quantities of red feathers as tro- phies. When a profound peace reigns between the two iflands, they have frequent intercourfc together j though, it is probable, they have not long been known to each other ; or, it might be fuppofed that Tongataboo, and its neighbouring iflands, would, before this time, have been fup- 'plied with a breed of dogs, which are numerous as zy^ A VOYAGE TO tHE LJV-. *at Feejee, and were not introduced at Toftgatd- boo, when Captain Cook firft vifited it, in 1773. The colour of the natives of Feejee was, at leafr, a fhade darker than that of the inhabitants of the other Friendly Iflands. We faw one of the natives of Feejee, who had his left ear flit, and the lobe fo ftretched, that it almoft extended to his fhoulderj which Angularity had been ob- ferved by Captain Cook at other iflands of the South Sea, during his fecond voyage. The Fee- jee men were much reverenced herej not only on account of their power and cruelly in war, but alfo for their ingenuity j for they greatly ex- cel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in workman- fhip. Specimens were fliewn us of their clubs and fpears, which were ingenioufly carved. We were alfo fliewn fome of their beautifully che- quered cloth, variegated nnats, e«),rthen pots, and •other articles, all of which difplayed a fuperiority •in the execution. ' Feejee, as has been already mentioned, k three days fail from Tongataboo j thefe people having no other method f f difcove^ing the diftance from ifland to ifland, but by mentioning the time re- quired for the voyage in one of their canoes. That this might be afcertained with fome preci- fion. Captain Cook failed in one of their canoes, and by repeated trials with the log, found that Jhe went clofe hauled, in a genjtle gale, fevea miles in an hour. He fuppofed (iom this, that they PACIFIC OCEAN. 273 •v,-' , .«. they will fail, with fuch breezes as in general blow in their feas, feven or eight miles an hour on an average. Each day, however, is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hours j for when they talk of one day's fail, they mean no more than from the morning to the evening, or ten or twelve hours at the moft. From the morning of the firft da/ till the evening of the fecond, isj with them, two days fail. In the day, they are guided by the fun j and, in the night, by ftars. When thefe are obfcured, they can only have recourfe to the points from whence the winds and waves came upon the veflel. If, at that time, the winds and the waves Ihould fhift, they are quite bewildered, often miffing their intended port, and being never heard of more. The ftory of Omai's countrymen, who were driven to Wa- teeoo, convinces us, however, that thofe who are not heard of, are not always loft. The harbour and anchoring-place of Tonga- taboo, is fuperior to any we have met with among thefe iflands, as well from its great fecurity, as its capacity, and goodnefs of bottom. The rifk we ran in entering it from the north, ihould cau- tion every future commander from attempting that paflfage again, efpecially mth a fhip of bur- den, fince that, by which we left it, may bepur- fued with greater eafe and fafety. Though the harbour of Tongataboo has the preference, its water is exceeded in goodnefs, by Vol. I.— N°s. T that TW .. M V4 A VOYAGE TO ''HE that at Annamooka, and yet this cannot be rrck- oned good. Tolerable water may, neverthelefs, be procured, by digging holes hear the fide of the pond. Belides, Annamooka being nearly in the centre of the group, is the beft fituated for procuring refrcfhments from the others. There is a creek in the reef on the north fide of the ifland, wherein two or t"hrce Ihips may lie fe- curely. Thofe who are dcfirous of having a more par- ticular delcription of the Friendly Iflands, muft ^lave recourfe to the chart, where every thing is ■'"'delineated as accurately as circumftances would permit. To the fame chart, recourfe may alfo be had foi-' tracing the'feVeral fbitions of theihips^ and their route. What may have l)eeh here omitted, concerning ^the geography Of thefe iflands, will be found in the hiftory of Captain Cook'^s iaft voyage * ; to which narrative the reader is referred f, for fuch ^particulars as he had then obfervcd. At prefent, 'we (hall only relate fuch interefting circumftances, is cither were omitted in that account, or were " imperfe£lly and incorreftly reprefcntcd. ^ * After living among them between two and three months, it is reafonable to exped, that we (hould be able to clear up every difficulty, and to give a tolerably good account of their manners, cuf- • Cook's Voyage, Vol. I. p. an, 213. f Ibid. . f. 213, ws- PACIFIC OCEAN. 275 toms, and inftitutions, civil as well as religious- particularly as we had a perfon with us, who, by underftanding their language as well as ours, might be enabled to a6t as an interpreter. But Omai was not qualified for that talk. Unlefs we Jiad before us the object or thing, concerning which we wanted information, tve fpqnd it di^- cult to obtain a competent knowledge fiom his explanations. Omai was certainly moi^e liable to make miftakes than we were : for, having no curiofity, he never troubled bimfelf with mak- ing remarks J and when he attempted to explain matters to, us, his ideas were apparently fo limit- ed, f pd, probably, differed fb much from ours, that his confufed accounts, inftcadof inflrudting, often only perplexed us. Befides, we could fel- dom 5nd a perfon, among the natives, who had both t!>e ability and ihcl'^ation to give us the in- formation we required. And many of them, we obferved, appeared offended at being alked, whac they, perhaps, deemed frivolous qieftlons. At Tongataboo, where we continued the longed, ou^ fituation was likewife unfavourable; bcirjg in a part of the country, where, except filhcrs, there were but few inhabitants. With our vifiters, as well as with thofe we vifited, it was alwa^ .oli- dayi fo that we could not obferve, what was re- ally the domeftic way of living among the na- tives. That we could not, therefore, in this fitu- ation, bring away fatisfadtory accounts of many T 2 things^ vjnavr f:= ' ■•• ft 276 A VOYAGE TO THE things, is not the lead furprizing. Some of Us, indeed, endeavoured, by diligent obfervation, to remedy thofe difadvantages j and we are indebt- ed to Mr. Anderfon, for a confiderable fhare of what is related in this and the following chapter. Tne Friendly Iflanders feldom exceed the coAi- rnon ftature, (though fonne here were above fix feet in height) and are ftrong and well proporti- oned. Their fhoulders arc, in general, broad j and we faw feveral who were really handfome, though their mufcular difpofition rather conveyed the idea of flrength than of beauty. Their fea- tures are fo various, that, unlefs it be by a ful- nefs at the point of the nofe, which is common, it is impoffible to fix any general likenefs by which' to charafterize them. On the other hand, many genuine Roman nofes, and hundreds of Eu- ropean faces, were feen amongft them. They have good eyes and teeth i but the latter are nei- ther fo well fet, nor fo remarkably white, as among the Indian nations. Few of them, however, have that uncommon thickncfs about the lips, fo fre- quent in other iflands. The women are lefs diflinguiflied from the men by their features, than by their general form, which fecms deftitiite of that ftrong flefhy firm- nefs that appears in the latter. Though the fea- tures of fome are very delicate, and a true index of their fex, laying claim to a confiderable fliare of beauty and cxprefiion, yet the rule is nor, by • ' * any Bl PACIFIC OCEAN. 177 any means, fo general, as in many other coun- tries. This is generally, however, the mod ex- ceptionable part ; for the bodies of mod of the fe- males are iifually well proportioned; and fome are abfolutely perfeft models of a beautiful figure. But the extraordinary fmallnefs and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in competition with any in Europe, feems to be tHe mod remark- able diftindion in the women. The general colour ^mong the natives is a caft deeper than the copper brown ; but feveral of both fexes have a true olive complexion. Some of the women are even much fairer j owing, per- haps, to their being lefs expofed to the fun ; as a tendency to corpulence, in fome of the prin- cipal people, feems to be the natural confequence of a more indolent life: a fofter and clearer flcin is alfo mod frequently obferved among the latter. Among the major part of the people, the fkin is geiierally of a dull hue, with fome degree of roughnefs, particularly the parts that are unco- vered, occafioned, perhaps, by fome cutaneous difeafe. We faw a man at Hapaee, perfectly white, and a child equally fo at Annamooka. In all black nations, fuch phasnomena are found, but their colour, it is imagined, proceeds from a difeafe. . Upon the whole, hoivever, few natural defeats or deformities are to be feen among them i though we obfervcd two or three with their feet bent in- mfainic:) ^3 . ' wards. r --'r-r f^psp^ ■ Y '■ y^t4 A'-' HS'a m 27^ A VOYAGE TO trtB! wards. Neither are they exempt from fome diJ*- cafes. Vaft numbers of them are affected with the ratter or ringworm, which leaves whitiflh fer- pentine marks behind it. But they have another difeafe of a more mifchievous confcquence, which is alfo very frequent, and appears on every part of the body, in large broad ulcers, difcharging a thin, clear pus, fome of which had a very viru- lent appearance, particularly on the face. Some, however, appeared to be cured of it, and others mending i but it was generally attended with the Iof& of the nofe, or a confiderable part of it. It being certainly known, and even acknowledged by themfelveS, that the natives were fubje(5t to this difeafe before they were vifited by th6 Eng-*. li(h, it cannot be the effedl of venereal contagion, ^otwithftanding the fimilarity of the fymptoms ; unlefs we adopt a fuppofition, that the venereal diforder was not introduced here by our peoplej, iri 1 77 J. It certainly was amongft them at ihik time i for, foon after we" arrived there, fome of oiir ^60pie received the infectioh j and Captain Cook had the mortification to learn frOm thence, Aat ii\ the Care he took in 1773, to prevent the cbmmunit^tioh of this dreadful difdaie, had prov- ed irteffeftifal. t^tf dp ndt feem, however, tb regard it much ; and, as we did not fee rtiSLnf Jnftances of its dfeftroyihg effcfts, perhaps the dimate, and the ^ay of living of thele people, fniy iiUtt its vlrhkhct. Two dthcr dilcafes are common PACIFIC OCEAN. ^79 common among them ; one of which is a 6rm fwclling, which afFe(5ts the legs and armsj the other is a tumour ia the tefticles, which fome- times exceed the fize of the two fifts. In other refpecbs, they are remar-kably healthy, not a fingle pcrfon having, during our ftay, been confined to the houfe by any kind of ficknefs. Their llrength and activity are, in every refpe(5t, anfwerable to their mufcular appearance j and they exert both, in fuch a manner, as to prove, that they are, as yet, little debilitated by the numerous difeafes that are the natural confequence of indolence. The graceful mien and firmnefs of ftep with which they walk, are obvious proofs of their per- fonal acc'":nplifhments. They confider this as a thing fo neceffary to be acquired, that their laughter was excited when they faw us frequently ftumbling upon the roots of trees, or other ine- qualities, in walking. The mildnefs or good-nature which they abun- dantly poflefs, is depidled on their countenances, which are totally free from that favage keennefs, which always marks the nations that are in a bar- barous (late. We might almoft be induced to fuppofe, that they had been reared under the fe- vereft reftriflions, to acquire fo fettled an afped, fuch a command of their paffions, and fuch a fteadinefs of condu6t. At the fame time, they are open, chearful, and good-humoured ; though, in the prefcnce of their chiefs, they fometimes ^ ,,. T 4 affume ■ ■■> ' > »;i . /' .1- •28o A VOYAGE TO THE afliime a degree of gravity, which has the ap- pearance of referve. Their pacific difpofition is thoroughly evinced, from their friendly reception of all ftrangers. In- ftead of attacking them openly, or clandeftinely, they have never appeared, in the fmallefl: degree, hoililej but, like the moft civilized nations, have even courted an intercourfe with their vifiters, by bartering; a medium which unites all nations in a degree of friendfhip. So perfe(5bly do they underftand barter, that, at firft, we fuppofed they had acquired the knowledge of it by trading with the n^'ighbouring iflands j but it afterwards appeared, that they had hardly any traffic, except with Feejce. No nation, perhaps, in the world, difplayed, in their traffic, more honefty and lefs diltruft. We fafely permitted them to examine our goods, and they had the fame implicit confi- dence in us. If either arty became diflatisfied with his bargain, a re-exchange was made with mutual confent and fatisfadion. They feem, upon the whole, to poffefs many of the moft ex- . cellent qualities that adorn the human mind. A propeniity to thieving, feems to be the only ^fflfe^l to fully their fair chara61:er. Thofe of all ages, and both fcxes, were addidled to it in an ' iiiicoQimon degree. It fhould be confidered, how- ever, that this exceptionable part of their condudb cxifted merely with refped to us j for, in their general intercoi^rfe with each other, thefts are •=- J » not. PACIFIC OCEAN. not, perhaps, more frequent than in other coun- tries, where the difhoneft practices of individuals fhoiild not authorize any indifcriminate cenfure on the people at large. Allowances fhould be made for the foibles of thefe poor iflan iers, whofc minds we overpowered with the glare of new and captivating objefls. Stealing, among civilized nations, denotes a charadler deeply ftained with moral turpitude. But at tiie Friendly Iflands, and others which we vifited, the thefts committed by the natives, may have been occafioned by lefs culpable motives. They were ftimulated folely by curiofity and defire to poflefs fomething new, and the property of a fort of people fo different from themfelves. And, perhaps, if a fet of be- ings, feemingly as fuperior to us, as we appear to be to them, fhould make their appearance among us, it might be poffible that our natural regard to juftice would not be able to reftrain many from being guilty of the fame error. That this is the true motive for their propenfity to this practice, is evident from their Healing every thing indifcriminately. The thieving difpofition of thefe iflanders, was the means, however, of affording us fome information as to their inge- nuity and their quicknefs of intelledls. For their petty thefts were managed with much dexterity ; and thofe of greater confequence, with a fettled plan or fcheme^, adapted to the importance of thQ objeds. The M- CS2 A VOYAGE TO THE The hairof thefc iQanders is, in general, thick, ftraight, and ftrong ; though fome have it bufliy or frizzled. The natural colour appears to be black, but many of the men, and fonne of the women, ftairj' it of a brown, or purple colour; and a few give it an orange caft. The firft of thefe colours is produced by applying a fort of plaifter of burnt coral mixed with water j the fe- cond, by the rafpings of a reddifh wood, mixed into a poultice, arrd laid over the hair j and the third is faid to be the efFcdl of turmeric root. They are fo whimfical in their falhions of wear- ing their hiir, that it is difficult to fay which is moft in vogue. Some have none on one fide of the head, while it remains long on the other fide; fome have only a part of it cut Ihort j others have parted with the whole, except a fingle lock on one fide. Some permit it to grow to its full length, without any of thefe mutilations. The women ufually wear it fhort. The beards too are cut fhort ; and both fexes ftrip the hair from their arm-pits. The men are ftained with a deep blue colour from the middle of the belly, to half way down the thighs. This is effected with a flat bone inftrument, full of fine teeth, which by a firoke of a bit of flick introduces the juice of dooe dooe into the fkin, by which means indelible marks are made. Lines and figures are thus traced, which, in fome, are very elegant. The women have only fome fmall lines, thus imprint- ed, PACIFIC OCEAN. a9$\ edit in the infide of their hands. As a mark of diftindion, their kings are exempted from this cuftom. The men are not circumcifed, but ra- ther fijpercifcd ,• the op':ratioii confifts in cutting off only a piece of the forcflcin at the upper part, which is thus rendered incapable of ever cover- ing the glarts. They have no other aim in thia operation, and only pra£tife it from a notion of cleanlinefs. The drcfs of both fexes is the fame j coofifl- ing of a piece of cloth or matting, about two yards in breadth, and two yards and a half in length. It is double before, and, like a petti- coat, hangs down to the middle of the leg. ThaC part of the garment which is above the girdle, is plaited into feveral folds> which extended, is fufficient to draw up and wrap round the fhoul-^ ders. This> as to form, is the general drefs ; but the fine matting, and long pieces of cloth, are worn only by the fuperior clafs of people. The inferior fort are contented with fmaU pieces, and, very often, have only a covering made of leaves of plants, or the maro, a narrow piece of cloth, or matting, like a falh. They pafs this between the thighs and round the waift. It is feldom ufed but by the men. In their haivas, or grand entertainments, they have various dreflcs, which, though the fame in form, arc cmbcllilhed more or kfs^ with red feathers. Both 2.84 A VOYAGE TO THE Both men and women occafionally defend their faces from the fun with little bonnets, made of various forts of materials. The ornaments, worn by thofe of cither fex, are the fame. Thofe which are mod common are necklaces, made of the Cruk o{ the pan^anus, and various fweet-fmclling flowers, known by the ge- neral name of kahulla. Others confiO- of fmall Ihi.Us, fliark's teeth, the wing and leg-bones of birds, &c. all which are pendant upon the brcaft. In this manner, they often wear a poJiflied nio- ther-of-pcarl fliell, or a ring, on the upper part of the arm j rings of tortoife-ftiell on the fingers ; gnd feveral of thefe, joined together, formed into bracelets on the wrilts. ., , Two holes are perforated in the lobes of r' c ears, in which they wear cylindrical bits of ivoi;-, of the length of three inches, introduced at one hole, and drawn out of the other ; or bits of reed, filled with a yellow pigment. This ap- pears to be a fine powder of tunnericy which the women rub all over their bodies, in the fame manner as the European ladies ufe their dry rouge upon their cheeks. . Perfonal cleanlinefs is their delight, to produce which, they bathe frequently in the ponds. Though the water has an intolerable ftench in moft of them, they always prefer them to the feaj and they are/o fenfible that their fkin is in.- jyred with fait water, that, when they are obliged to Pacific ocean. 2^5 their ic of Tex, )n are \y and lege, fmaJI es of rcaft. nio- part I into to b2fhe in the Tea, they have frcfli water poured over them to vvafli off its bad effefts. They arc extravagantly fond of cocoa-nut oil j a great quantity of which rhey pour upon their head and flioulders, and rub the body all over with a fmaller quantity. ijfij CHAP; XI. Farious Employments of the Women of the Friendly Iflands — Occupations of the Men — Agriculture-^ Manner of building their Houjes — ^heir Furni- '^ ture — Canoes — fVorking-Tocls — Cordage — Fifl)^ \ ing-'Tackle — Injlruments of Mufic — Weapons — Vegetable and Animal Food — Methods of Cook- f ^^i — Diverftons — Marriage — Mourning Ceremo- nies — Cuflom of cutting off their little Finger-— r, * -fheir Deities — Sentiments concerning the Soul, and a future State — Their Fiatookas — Form of j^ Government — Power of the Chiefs — Mode of 2^ paying Homage to the King — "-laboo incurred by it « -—Precaution againfi Famine — Of the 'Tammahas V —Language — I'ides. THE domeftic life of thefe people is neither fo laborious as to be difagreeable, nor fa ' free from employiTTent as to fuffcr them to dege- '" - . neratc : J'! fe' ■ar$6 ' A VOYAGE TO THE ,ncrate into indolence. Their country has beert £o favoured by nature, that the firft can icarcely occur ; and their difpofition appears to be a fuf- ficient bar to the laft. By this fortunate con- currence of circumftances, their neceflary labour feems to yield, in its turn, to their amufements ani recreations, which are nevei interrupted by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to bufi- ncfs, till they are induced by fatiety to wifh for that tranfition. The employment of the women is not difficult j and is generally fuch as they can execute in the houfe. The making of cloth is entirely entrufted to their care j the procefs of which manufadlure has been already defcribed. Their cloth is of different degrees of finenefs : the coarfer kind does not receive the impreffion of any pattern : but, of the finer fort, they have various patterns, differently coloured. The cloth, in general, is able to refill: water for fome time ; but that which has the ftrongeft glaze, is the leaft liable to be penetrated by that fluid. ^ Another manufadture, which is alfo configned to the women, is that of their mats, which excel thofe of mofl other countries, both witli refpedt to th^ir texture and their beauty. Of thefe mats there are feven or eight different forts, which they either wear or flecp upon j and many are merely ornamental. The laft arc piincipr.lly made from the tough, membraneous part of the flock of the f la/itain-tree ; thofe that they wear, are ^eneraU/ 3 com- C( oi CJ ot as beert fcely afuf- con- bour ents d by bufil for >men can h is s of bed. tfs: fTion lave 3th, ne; ?aft PACIFIC OCEAK, .5187 compofed of the pandanus ; and the coarrer kind, on which they fleep, are formed from a plant called evarra. There are feveral other articles of lefs importance, that employ their females ; as combs, of which they make great quantities ; and fmall bafkets made of the. fame fubftance as the mats, and others compofed of the fibrous hufk of the cocoa-nut, either interwoven with beads, or plain ; all which are finilhcd with ex- traordinary neatnefs and tafte. The province of the men is, as might rtaioTi- ably be cxpeded, far more laborious and exten- five than that of the other fex. Archkedure, boat-building, agriculture, and fifhing, are the principal objeAs of their care. As cultivated foots and fruits form their chief fubfiftence, they find it neceffary to praiSlife hufbandry, which they have brought by their diligence to fome degree of perfeftion. In planting yams and plantains, they dig fmall holes for their reception, and after- wards root up the furrounding grafs. The in- ftruments ufed by them for this purpofe, arc call- ed hooo ; and are nothing more than ftakes of various lengths, flattened and fharpened to an edge at one end; and the largeft ones have a fhort piece fixed tranfverfely, by means of which they prefs the implemenu into the ground with the foot. When they plant the two above-men- tioned vegetables, they obferve fuch particu- lar cxadln^fs, that, whichever way you turn your eyes. ? They are very fliilful in building their canoes; which, indeed, arc the moft pcrfed of their me- chanical productions. The double ones are made fufficiently large to carry about fifty per* fons, and faii at a great rate. Upon them they generally fix a hut or flied, for the reception of the mafter and his family. They are made of the bread-fruit tree, and the workmanfliip is extremely neat. They appear on the outfide as if they were compofed of one folid piece ; bar, upon clofer infpc6lion, they arc found to confift '*i Vol, L— n° 5. U cf I ^'' fc'l>IIWJ»W^>'HW«MW— W.»avhich walks upon the graves with that intent. They do not worihip any vifible part of the creatipn, or any thing made by their own hands. They make no offerings of dogs, hogs, and fruit (as is the cuftom at Otaheite) unlefs emblemati- cally. But there feems to be no reafon to doubt pf their offering up human facrifices. This Jia^ tookas, or moral's, are, in general, burying-grounds and places of worihip : fome of them, however, appeared to be appropriated only to the former purpofe j but thefe were fmall and greatly inferior to the reft. We are very little acquainted with their form of government. A fubordination, rcfembling the feudal fyftem oT our anceftors in Europe, is efta- iDlifhed among them ; but of its fubdivifions, and the conftituent parrs, we are ignorant. Though fome of them informed us, that the king's power js unbounded, and that he has the abfolute dif- pofal 298 VOVACE TO THE m pafal of the lives and properties of his fubjedls ; yet the few circumftances that offered themfelves to our obfcrvation, contradi<5led, rather than con- firmed, the id*ea of defpotic fway. Mareewagee, Feenou, and Old Toobou., adled each the part of a petty fovcreign, and not unfreqiiently counter- a6ted the meafures of the king. Nor was his court fiiperior in fplendor to thofe of Old Toobou and Mareewagee, who, next to his mijefty, were the mort potent chiefs in thefe iflands ; and, next after them, Feenou appeared to ftand higheft in rank and authority. But, however independent on the king the principal men may be, the infe- rior people are totally fubje<^ to the will of the chiefs to whom they fcverally belong. The ifland of Tono^ataboo is divided into nu- merous diftricls, each of which has its peculiar chief, vvhodiftributcsjuftice, and decides difputes, within his own territory. Mofl: of thefe chief- tains have cftates in other illands, whence they procure fupplies. The king, at itated times, re- ceives the produ<51: of his diftant domains at Ton- gataboo, which Is not only the ufual place of his rcfidcnce, but the abode of mofl perfons of dif- tiin5lion among thefe iflands. Its inhabitants fre- quently call it the Land of Chiefs, and ftigmatize rhe fubordinate iQes with the appellation of Lands of Servants. ' The chiefs areftyled by the people lords of the earth, and alfo of the fun and Iky. The royal 3 family m I' A C I F I C OCEAN. 299 fain;ly afiuine the name of Futtafaihe, from the god diilinguiflied by that appellation, who is pro- bably confidercd by them as their tutelary patron. The king's peculiar title is fimply T^ooee tonga. The order and decorum obferved in his prefcnce, and likcwife in that of the other chiefs, are truly admirable. \Vhe .ever he fits down, all the at- tendants feat themfelves before him, forming a femi-circle, and leaving a fufficient fpace between them and him, into which no one, unlefs he ha$ particular bufinefs, prefumes to come. Nor is any one fuffcrred to fit, or pafs, behind him, or even near him, without his pcrmifllon. When a perfon wilhes to fpeak to his majefly, he comes forward, and having feated himfelf before him, delivers in a few words what he has to fay ; then, after being favoured with an anfwer, retires. If the king fpeaks to any one, the latter gives an anfwer from his feat, unlefs he is to receive an order; in which cafe he rifes from his place, and feats himfelf crofs -legged * before his majcft)^. To fpeak to the king (landing, would here be confidcred as a glaring mark of rudenefs. None of the moft civilized nations have ever exceeded thefe iflanders in the great order and regularity maintained on every occafion, in ready m * It may be proper to mention here, on the authority of Captain King, that this pofture is peculiar to the men ; for the females always fit with both their legs thrown a little on one fide. • and ^ 300 A VOYAGE TO THE m m' i and fubmiflive compliance with the commands of their chief'^, and in the perfed harmony that fub- fifts among all ranks. Such a behaviour mani- fefts itfelf in a remarkable manner, whenever their chiefs harangue a body of them alTembled toge- ther, which frequently happens. The greateil attention and mod profound filence are ohferved during the harangue i and whatever might have been the purport of the oration, we never faw a lingle inftance, when any one of thofe who were prcfent fhewed figns of his being difpleafed, or leemed in the leaft inclined to difpute the declared will of the fpeaker. , ■ It is a peculiar privilege annexed to the perfon of the king, not to be pundlured, nor circum- cifed, or rather fupercifed^ as all his fubjeds are. Whenever he v^alks out, all who meet i'im niuit fit down till he has paiTcd. No perfon is fuffered to be over his head; bur, on the contrary, ail muft come under his feet. The method of doinj» homage to him, and the other chiefs, is as fol- lows : the perfon who is to pay obeifance, fquats down before the great perfonage, and bows the head down to the fole of his foot, which he taps or touches v/ith the under and upper fide of the finger?: of each hand j then riling up, he retires. We had reafon to think, that his majelty cannot refufe any one who is dcfirous of paying him this homage, which is called by the natives moe moea i for the people would frequently think proper to Ihcw / PACIFIC OCEAN. 33t Ihew him thefe marks of fubmilTion when he was walking i and he was on thole occafions obliged to ftop, and hold up one of his feet behind him, till they had performed this refpe^lful ceremony. This, to lb corpulent and unwieldy a man as Poulaho, mull have been painful and troublefomej and we have fometimes (ccn him endeavour, by running, to get out of the way, or to reach a con- venient place for fitting down. The hands, after having been thus a| pl'ed, become, in fome cafes, ufelefs for a little tinit: j for, till they are walhed, they mull not touch food of any fort. This pro- hibition, in a country where water is far from being plentiful, would be attended with incon- venience, if a piece of any juicy plant, which they can immediately procure, being rubbed over the hands, did not ferve for the purpofe of puri- fication. When the hands are in this fituation, they term it iaho rema j the former word gene- rally fignifying forbidden, and the latter imply- ing hand. When the taboo is incurred, by doing homage to a perfon of rank, it may thus eafily be walhed off: but, in feveral other cafes, it mud continue for a certain period. We have often feen women, who have been taboo rema^ not fed by themfelves, but by others. The interdicled perfon, after the limited time has elapfed, waflies herfelf in one of their baths, which are, in ge- neral, dirty ponds of brackilh water. She then waits upon the fovereign, and, after having paid the 4 'JO 2 A VOYAGE TO THE r I iV the cuito.nary obcifance^ takes hold of his foor, which Ihe applies to her Ihoiiiders, brsaft, and .other parts: he then embraces her on both fhould- crs, and flie inimediately retires, purined from her iincleannefs. If it be always neceflary to have recourfe to his inajefty for this ^^urpofe (of which we are not certain, though Omai allured us it was) it may be one reafon for his travelling- very frequently from one ifland to another. The word laho has a great latitude of fignifi- cation. They call human facrifices tangata tabOo ; and when any particular thing is prohibited to be eaten, or made ufe of, they fay it is taboo. They informed us, that, if the king fliould go into a houfe belonging to one of his fubjedls, that houfe would in confequence become taboOy and could never be again inhabited by the owner of it j fo that, wherever his majefty travels, there are houfes peculiarly afligned for his accommodation. At this time. Old Toobou prefided over the tajoo j that is, if Omai did not mifunderlland thofe who gave him the intelligence, he and his deputies had the infpeclion of all the produce of the ifland, taking care that each individual fhould cultivate; and plant his quota, and diredting what Ihould, and what fliould not, be eaten. By fo prudent a regulation, they take effedual precautions againft a famine j fufficient ground is employed in raifing provifions j and every article is fecured from un- neceflary coniumption. By another good regu- lation^ PACIFIC O C i: A No 303 latiou, an officer of rank is appointed to fuper- incend tlie police. ^ his depai-iinent was admi- nifter^d, while we continued among them, by Fecnoii, whofe bnfmefs (as we were informed) ic was, to piinifii all delinquents : he was alfo gene- ralidiino, or commander in chief of the forces of the iflands. Poulaho himfelf declared to us, that, if he fhould become a bad man, Fcenou would dethrone and kill himj by which he doubtiefs meant, that, if he negleftt^ the duties of hiS high ftation, or governed in a manner that would prove prejudicial to the public v/elfare, Fcenoii would be defired, by the other chiefs, or by tht col}e6live body of the people, to depofc him from his fovereignty, and put him to death. A mo- narch thus fubjed to controul and punilliment for abufe of power, cannot juflly be deemed a defpotic prince. When we take into conHderation the number of illands of which tliis itate con fills, and the diftance at which fome of them are removed from the feat of governmcni, attempts to throw off the yoke of fubjeftion might be apprehended. But they informed us, that this circumftance never happens. One reafon of thv'^iir not being thus em- broiled in domeftic commotions may be this.; that all the principal chiefs take up their rcfidence at Tongataboo. They alio fecure the dependence of the other ides, by the decifive celerity of their operations i for if a feditious and popuLir man ftlQuld \'m 304 A VOYAGE TO THE lliould ilart up in any of them, Feenou, or who- ever happens to hold his office, is imnacdiately difpatched rhither to put hirn to death ; by which means thhv excinojuiih an infurredion V/hilc it is yet in embryo. , . The different clafTes of their chiefs fcemed to be nearly as numerous as among us j but there are few, comparatively fpeaking, that are lords of vextenlive diftricls of territory. It is fliid, that, when a peribn of property dies, all his poiieffions devolve on the fovereign ; but that it is cuftomary to give them to the eldefb ion of the deceafed, with this condition annexed, that he ihould pro- vide, out of the eftate, for the other children. The crown is hereditary ; and we know, from a particular circumftance, that the Futtai^aihes., of which family is Fouiaho, have reigned, in a di- red line, for the fpace of at leaft one hundred and thirty-live years, which have elapfed between our prefent viht to tliefe iflands, and TaJman's difcovery of them. Upon our inquiring of them> whether any traditional account of tiie arrival of Tafman's (hips had been preferved among rhern till this time, we found; that this hiftory had been delivered down to them, iTom their anceftors, with oreat accuracy: for thev faid that his two ihips refembled ours, imd aifo mentioned the place where rhey had lain at anchor, their havinr^ continued but a few days, and their quitting tliat ftation to go to Aanumooka ; arid, for the pur- pofe po ha of th( are PACIFtC OCEAN. 3^i pofe of informing us how long ago this affair had happened, they communicated to us the name of the Futtafaihe who reigned at that time, and thole who had fucceeded him in the fovereignty, down to Pouiaho, who is the fifth monarch fince that period. It might naturally be imagined, that the pre- fent fovereign of the Friendly Ifles had the higheft rank of any perfon in his dominions. But we found it to be otherwifc ; for Latoolibooloo, who has been already mentioned, and three women, are fuperior, in fome rcfpcfts, to Poulaho him- feif. Thefe great perfonages are diftinguilhed by the title of 'J'ammahay which implies a chief. When we made inquiry concerning them, we were informed that the late king, father of Poulaho, left behind him a filler of equal rank, and older tlian himfclf; that flie, by a native of Feejee, had a Ton and two daughters.; and that thefe three pcrfonS;, as well as their mother, are of higher rank than the king. We endeavoured to difco- ver the reafon of this pre-eminence of the 'Tam- mahas^ but without effe6V. The mother, and one of her daughters, named Tooeela-kaipa, refideat Vavaoo. The other daughter, called JMoungoula- kaipa, and Ijafoolibooloo the fon, dwell at Ton- gataboo. Moungoula-kaipa is the ladv who has been nnnunwfi] as having dined witii Captain Cook on the 7,1ft of Jun'?. Latoolibooloo was V01-. /.•"--n" 5. X fup- RMaMcriKb^iov 3^^ VOYAGE TO THE fuppofed, by his countrymen, to be difordercd in his fenfes. Ac Eooa, or Middleburg, they fiiewed i;s a con fidcrable quantity of land, which was faid to be his property ; and we faW there a fon of his, a child, who was honoured with the fame title that his father enjoyed. The lano-uasre of thefe iflands bears a ftrikino; refemblance to that of New- Zealand, of Otaheitc, and the Society Ifles. The pronunciation of thefe people differs, indeed, in many inftances, from that both of Otaheitc and New-Zealand ; but, notwithftanding that, a great number of words are either very little changed, or exa6tly the fame. The language, as fjpoken by the Friendly 1 Dan- ders, is fufEciently copious to cxprefs all their ideas; and, be/ides being tolerably harmonious in common converfation, is eafily adapted to the purpofes of mufic. They have terms to fignify numbers as far as a hundred thoufand, beyond which they either would not, or could not, reckon. The latitude of that part of Tongataboo where lour obfervatory was creeled, which was near the 'middle of the north-fide of the ifland, was, ac- cordins to the moft accurate obfervations, 21' 8' 19" fouthi and its longitude was 184" ^^' j8"eaft. The tides are more confidcrable at the Friendly Iflandsy than at any other of Captain Cook's dif- coveries AAi*- Ji#' fi. ir ) PACIFIC OCEAN. 3^7 coveries In this ocean, that are fituate withid either of the tropics. At Annamooka the tide rifes and falls about fix feet, upon a perpendi- cular. At Tongataboo, it rifes and falls four feet and three quarters, on the full and change days J and three feet and a half at the quadratures. X 2 A VOY- •'-.*.■ w'J V O Y A G E T O T H E , PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK III. OCCURRENCES AT OTAHEITE AND THE SOCIETY ISLES; AND PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE TO THE COAST OF NORTH-AMERICA. C H A P. I. Heavy Squall — The IJland of l^oohouai difcovered'--' Its Situatiotiy Extent, and Produce — Dejcription of the Perfons, Drefs, and Canoes, of its Inha^ bit ants — Arrival in Oheitepeha Bay at Ota- heite — Omai's Reception — His imprudent Ccn- du5i — Account of two Spanifh Ships which bad twice vifited Otaheite — Great Demand for red Feathers — Captain Cook vijits a Chief, who was Jaid by Omai to be the God of Bolabola — Account of the Houje eretted by the Spaniards — In/crip- tions — Allowance of Grog lejfened — The Cap- tain's Interview with IVaheiadooa—^De/criptlon of a Toopapaoo — An Enthufiajl—The Ships anchor in Alatavai Bay, WJ ^- had now taken our final leave of the VV iendly Iflands. On the 17th of July, gt eight o'clock in the evening, Eoo- bore north- caft A VOYAGE, SiC. 3^9 caft by north, diftant three or four leagues. The wind blew a frefh gale at eaft. We Hood to the fouth, till after fix o'clock the next morning, when, from the fame direction, a fudden fquali took our fhip aback ; and before v/e could trim the fhips on the other tack, the main-fail and the top-gallant fails were confiderably torn. On the 19th and 20th, the wind kept between the fouth- wefl, and fouth-ead; then it veered to the eaft, norch-eaft, and north. ' • We ftretched to the eaft fouth- eaft, without meeting with anything rem.arkable, till the 29th, 'It feven o'clock in the evening, when we had .1 very heavy fquali of wind from the north. We were, at this time, under fingle-reefed top-fails, courfes, and ftay-fails. Two of the latter were almoft dennolifhed by the wind, and it was with the utmoft difficulty that we laved the other fails. This fquali being over, we faw feveral lights mov- ing about on board the Difcovery ; whence we con- jectured that ibmething had given wayj and, the next morning, we perceived that her main-top« maft had been loft. Both wind and weather re- mained very unfettled till noon, when the latter cleared up, and the former fettled in the north- weft quarter. We were now in the latitude of 2S' 6' fouth, and our longitude was 198'' 23' eaft. We faw fome pintado-birds, which were the firlt we had feen, fince we left the land. •i ^ . 't 1;:r I X At Mid. 310 A VOYAGE TO T!lE At noon, on the 31(1, Captain Gierke made a fignul to rpeak with Captain Cook j and after- wards informed him, that the head of tiic main- maft had fpriing, and in fuch a manner, as to render the rigging of anotlicr top-Tnaft extremely dangerous; that he mult therefore rig foiriething lighter in its place. He further informed him, that he had loll his main-top gallant-yard; and had not another on board, nor a fpar to make one. Captain Cook fent him the Rcfolution's fprit- fail-top- fail-yard, which fupplied this want for the prefen... The next day, by getting up a jury- top-maft-, on which he fet a mizen-top-fail, lie was enabled to keep way with the Refolution. We lleered caft-north-eafl:, and north-eaft, without meeting with any remarkable occurrence till the morning of the 8th of Auguft, at eleven o'clock ; when land was obferved bearing north- north-eaft, about nine or ten leagues diftant. At firfb it appeared like fo many feparate iflands ; but, as we approached, we found, it was all con- nedled, and formed one and the fame ifland. We fteered dire£lly for it with a fine gale, and, at half pad fix in the afternoon, it extended from north by^ eaft, to north-north-eaft, diftant three or four leasiues. At day-break, the next morning, we fteered for the north-weft fide of the iQand, and as we ftood round its fouth-weft part, we faw it guard- ed by a reef of coral rock, extending, in fome places. «/! PACIFIC OCEAN. 3i» pUces, at lead a mile from the liind, and a liigh lurf breaking upon it. As we drew near, we faW people walking or running along afliore, on feve- ral parts of the co.iil, and, in a fliort time after, \vhen we had reached the lee-fide of the illand, we faw two canoes launched, in which were about a dozen men, who paddled towards us. In order to give thefe canoes time to come up with us, as well as to found for anchorage, v/e fliortened fail ; and, at the diilance of half a mile from the reef, we found from forty to thirty-five fathoms water. The canoes, after having ad- vanced within piftol-fhot of the fhips, fuddenly Hopped. Omai was defired, as was ufual on fuch occafions, to endeavour to prevail upon the men in them to come nearer^ but no arguments could induce them to truft themfelves within our reach. They often pointed eagerly to the fhoie with their paddles, at the fame time calling to us to go thither i and many of their people who were {landing upon the beach, held up fomething white in their hands, which we conftrued as an invitation for us to land. We could eafily have accompliflied this, there being good anchorage without the reef, and an opening in it, through which the canoes had paiTed, which had no furf upon it. But the Captain did not chufe to rifk the advantage of a fair wind, in order to examine an ifland, that appeared to be but of little con- Tcquence, We required no refrefhments, if we X 4 had '■m i. r IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 1^121 125 US ^ ^ ■ 2.2 Its lU IM 1-25 1 1.4 ||.6 6" ► V] >■ v: '/ s PhotogR^hic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716)872-4503 \ iV 4^ a;^ \ %^ %^ ^ 312 A VOYAGE T O THE had been certain of meeting with them there, and therefore, after making feveral unfuccefsfiil attempts to prevail upon thefe people to come near us, we made fail to the north, and left them j having firft learned that the name of their ifland was Toobouai. It is fituated in the latitude of 2;f 25' fouth J and in 210" 37' eaft longitude. The greatefl: extent of this ifland, in any di- redion, is not above five or fix miles. Small, however, as it appears, there are hills in it of a confiderable elevation j at the foot of which, is a narrow border of flat land, extending almofl: all round it, bordered with a white fand-beach. The hills were covered with herbage, except a few rocky cliff^s, with patches of trees interfperfed to their fummits. This ifland, as we were inform- ed by the men in the canoes, is plentifully fliocked with hogs and fowls ; and produces the feveral kinds of fruits and roots that are to be met with at the other iflands in this neighbourhood. From the converfation we had with thofe who cameoflT to us, we difcovercd that the inhabitants of Toobouai fpeak the Otaheite language j an indubitable proof that they are of the fame na- tion. Thofe whom we faw in the canoes, were a (lout copper-coloured people ; fome wearing their hair (which was fl:raight and black) flowing about the flioulders, and others having it tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their faces were roundifti and full, but the features flatj and their counte- PACIFIC OCEAN. 3^3 counteniinces exprefled a degree of natural fero- city. Their covering was a piece of narrow ftuff wrapped round the waift, and pafling betweea the thighs j but fome of thofe whom we beheld upon the beach, were compleatly clothed in white. Some of our vifiters, in the canoes, had their necks ornamented with pearl-lheils j and one of them continued blowing a large conch- Ihcll, to which a reed, of about two feet long, was fixed i he began in a long tone, without any variation ; and afterwards converted it into a kind of mufical inftrument. Whether the blov/ing of the conch portended any thing, we cannot fay, but wc never found it the tneflenger of peace. The length of their canoes appeared to be about thirty fecty and they rofe about two feet above the furface of the water, as they floated. The fore- part projected a little -, the after-part rofe to the height of two or three feet, with a gradual curve, and, like the upper part of the fides, was carved all over. The reft of the fides were ornamented with flat white fhells curiouflydifpofed. There were eight men in one of the canoes, and feven in the other. They were conduced with imall paddles, whofe blades were almoft circular; and they fome- times paddled, with the two oppofite fides fo clofe together, that they appeared to be but one boat J the rovers occafionally turning their faces to the ftern, and pulling that way, without pad- dling the canoes round. Seeing we were de- termined n 1 Hi 1 r J ' f i 1 f 5 I-'- 3H A VOYAGE TO THE termined to leave them, they ftood up, and re- peated fomething alqiid ; but we knew not whe- ther they were c^fprefling their enmity, or friend- fliip. It is certain, however, that they had not any weapons with them j nor could we with our glafles difcover, that thofe on fhore were armed. Leaving the ifland, we (leered to the north with a frelh gale, and, at day-break, on the 1 2th, we perceived the ifland of Maitea. Otahcite ap- peared foon after j the point of Oheitepeha-bay bearing weft, about four leagues diftant. We fleered for this ba)', intending to anchor there, in order to draw fome refrefliments from the fouth- eaft part of the ifland, before we proceeded to Matavai, where we expelled our principal fup- ply. We had a frefli gale till two o'clock in the afternoon j when, at about a league from the bay, the wind fuddenly died away. About two hours after, we had fudden fqualls, with rain, from the eaft. About nine o'clock, we were obliged to ftand out, and fpend the night at fea. As we drew near the ifland, wc were attended by feveral canoes, each conduced by two or three men. But, as they were of the lower clafs, Omai feemed to take no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They did not even know, that he was one of their copntrymen, though they had for fome time convcrftd with him. At length a chief, whom Captain Cook had known before, : named PACIFIC OCEAN. 3^S named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who happened to be now at this corner of the ifl?nd, and three or four others, all of whonn knew Omai, before he embarked with Captain Furneaux, came on board. Yet there was nothing in the leaft tender or flriking in their meeting, but, on the contrary, a perfeft indifference on both fides, till Omai, conducing his brother into the cabin, opened a drawer, and gave him a few red feathers. This cirrumftance being foon communicated to the reft of the natives on deck, Ootee, who be- fore would hardly fpcak to him, now begged, that they might be tayos (friends) and exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour, and a prefent of red feathers ratified the agreement j and Ootee, by way of recompenfe, fcnt afliore for a hog. It was evident, however, to all of us, that it was not the man, but his property, that they efteemed. Had he not exhibited his treafure of red feathers, a commodity highly eftimated in the ifland, it is a matter of great doubt whether they would have beftowed a fingle cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's firft reception among his countrymen, and we never expefted it would be otherwife j but we fuppofed, that the valuable cargo of prefents, with which he had been load- ed by the liberality of his friends in England, would be the certain means of raifing him into confequencc among the firft perfons throughout the extent of the Society Iflands. This, indeed, 4 muft ji6 A VOYAGE TO THE muft have been the cafe, had he condu(fled him- fclf with any degree of prudence j but he paid little or no attention to the repeated advice of his well-wiihcrs, and laid himfelf open to every impofition. Wc underftood from the natives who came off to us, that fince Captain Cook laft vifited this ifland in 1774, two other (hips had twice been in Oheitepeha-bay, and had left animals there, like thofe we had on board. But, on enquiry into the particulars, we found, that they confifted only of hogs, dogs, goats, a bull, and the male of another animal, which they fo imperfccfbly de- fcribed, that we could not conjedlure what it was. Thefe fhips, they informed us, had come from a place called Re^ma -, which we fuppofcd to be Lima, the capital of Peru, and that thefe late vifiters were cOnfequently Spaniards. They told us, that the firft time they arrived, they built a houfe, and left behind them two priefts, a boy or fervant, and a perfon called Mateema ; taking away with them, when they failed, four of the natives J that about ten months afterwards, the fame fliips returned, bringing back only two of the natives, the other two having died at Lima ; and that, after a fhort flay, they took away the people they had left ; but that the houfe which they creeled v-as left (landing. News having been propagated on (hore, of red feathers being on board our (hips, we were, early ^ the PACIFIC OCEAN. 3V the next morning, furrounded by a multitude of canoes, crowded with people, with plenty of hogs and fruits. A quantity of feathers, which might be taken from the body of a tom-tit, would, at that time, purchafc a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But as the whole fliips crew were pof- fclTed of fome of this precious article of trade, it decreafcd above five hundred per cent, in its value in a few hours. However, the balance, even then, was confiderably in our favour, and red feathers ftill prcfervcd their luperiority over every other commodity. Some of the iflanders would not difpofe of a hog, without receiving an axe in exchange; but nails, and beads, and many other trinkets, which, during our former voy- ages, were held in high eitimation at this ifland, were now fo much defpifed, that few would even deign to look at them. Not having wind in the morning, it was nine o'clock before we could anchor in the bay, when we moored with the two bowers. We had not long anchored, before Omai's fitter came on board, to congratulate him on his arrival. It was pleaf- ing to obferve, that, to the honour of each of them, their meeting was marked with exprelTions of the tendereft afFed:ion, more eafily conceived than defcribed. When this afFeding fcene was clofed, and the fliip properly moored, Omai attended Captain f ook on fhore. The Captain's firft objeft was to % ii ill''.^ 'it''" I') ^i8 A VOYAGE TO THE to pay a vifit to a man whom Omai reprcfented as a very extraordinary perfonage indeed, faying he was the God of Bolabola. They faw him feated under one of thofe awning's, which are ufu- ally carried in their larger canoes. He was old, and had fo far loft the ufe of his limbs, that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-bar- row. By fome, he was called 0//^, or Orra^ which is the name of the God of Bolabola j but his real name was Etary. From Omai's extra- ordinary account of this perfon, the Captain ex- pelled to have fecn religious adoration paid to him : but he faw very little to diftinguilh him from their other chiefs. Omai prcfented to him a tuft of red feathers, fattened to the end of a fmall ftick ; but, after a little converfacion with this Bolabola man, his attention was excited by the prefence of his mother's fifter, who was al- ready at his feet, and had bedewed them plenti- fully with tears of joy. The Captain left him with the old lady in this fituation, furrounded by a number of people,- and went to take a fur- vey of the houfe faid to have been eredled by the ftrangers who had lately landed here. He fotind it ftill (landing at a fmall diftance from the beach. It was compofed of wooden materials, which appeared to have been brought hither, ready prepared, in order to fet up as occafion might require ^for the planks were all number- ed. It confiftcd of two fmall rooms, in the inner of PACIFIC OCEAN. 3X9 of which, were a bedftead, a bench, a table, fome old hats, and other trifles, of which the na- tives feemed to be remarkably careful, as well as * of the building itfelf, which had received no in- jury from the weather, a kind of Ihed having been eredlec* over it. Scuttles, ferving as air- holes, appeared all round the building j and, per- haps, they were alfo meant for the additional pur- pofc of firing from, with mufkets, if neceflity iliould require it. A wooden crofs was placed at a little diftance from the front, on the tranf- verfe part of which appeared the following in- fer iption : Chrijius vincit. On the perpendicular part (which confirmed our conjecture that the two fhips were Spanifh) was engraved, Carolus III. tmperat, 1774. And on the other fide of the poft, Captain Cook very properly preferved the memory of the prior vifits of the Englilh, by infcribing, Georgius tertius rex, .< Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1774, €t 1777. Near the foot of the crofs the iflanders pointed out to us the grave of the Commodore of the two fhips, who died here, while they lay in the bay, on their firft arrival. His name, as near as we could githCr from their pronunciation, was Oreede. t ■ ill* i "w »,n uty.f *i( 330 A VOYAGE TO THE Orecde. The Spaniards, whatever their intentloni might be in vifiting this ifland, fecmed to have taken infinite pains to have ingratiated thcmfclves with the natives ; who, upon all occafions, men- tioned them with the ftrongeft terms of elteem and veneration. On this occafion, the Captain met with no chief of any confiderable note excepting the aged perfonage above defcribed. Waheiadooa, king of Tiaraboo, (as this part of the ifland is called by the natives) was now abfentj and we were afterwards informed, that (though his name was the fame) he w^s not the fame perfon as the chief whom Captain Cook had feen here in 1774; but his brother, £i youth of ten years of age, who had fucceedibci the, elder Waheiadooa. We alfo Jifcovered^that the celebrated Oberea was dead ; but^hat Otoo, and all our other friends, were living. When Captain Cook returned from the houfe erefled by the Spaniards, he found Omai harangu- ing a very large company; and could with diffi- culty difengage him to accompany him aboard, where he had to fettle a matter of importance. Knowing that Otaheite, and the neighbouring iflands, could fupply us plentifully with cocoa- nuts, the liquor of which is a moft excellent be- verage, he wifhed to prevail upon his people to confent to be abridged, for a Ihort time, of their ftated allowance of fpirits to mix with water. But PACIFIC OCEAN. 321 But as this, without alTigning fomc powerful rca*- fon, might have occafioned a general murmur, he airemblcd the fhip's company, to communi- cate to them the intent of the voyage, and the extent of our future operations. He took notice of the generous rewards offered, by parliament, to fuch as Ihall firft difcover a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, in the Northern Hemifphere, as well as to thofe who fhall iirfl penetrate beyond the 89th degree of northern latitude. He faid, that he did not en- tertain a doubt> that he fliould find them ready to co-operate with him in attempting to obtain one, or both thefe rewards ; but, that it would be neceflaiy to be ftriftly ceconomical in the ex- penditure of our ftorcs and provifion?, as we had not a chance of getting a fupply after leaving thefe iflands. He further obferved, that the du- ration of our voyage would exceed by a year, at leaft, what had been originally fuppofcd, by our having loft the 6pportunity of getting to the north this fummer. He begged them to confi- der the various obftruflions, and aggravated hard- fhips, they muft yet labour under, if they fliould be under the necelTity of being put to fhort al- lowance, of any fpecies of provifions, in a cold climate. He therefore fubmitted to them, whe- ther it would not be the mod advifeable to be prudent in time, and rather than run the rifk of having their fpirits exhaufted, when they might Vol. I.— n" 6. Y be m u- : I! .' mi 32* VOVAOE TO THf be mod wanted, to confcnt to be without thtlr grog at prefent, when we could fupply its place with (o excellent a liquor as that of cocoa-nuts. Kc added, neverthelefs, that he would leave the determination entirely to their own choice. This propofal did not remain a moment under confideration, and Captain Cook had the fatif- fadion to find that it was unanimoufly approved of. He ordered Captain Clerke to make a fimi- lar propofal to his people ; which they alfo rea- dily agreed to. The ferviiig of grog was there- fore immediately flopped, except on Saturday nights, when all the men had a full allowance of it, to enable them to drink tlie healths of their female friends in England j left, amidft the pretty girls of Otaheite, they lliould be totally forgotten. We began, the next day, fome neceflary ope- rations i fuch as infpefling the provifions in the main and fore^hold, getting thecafks of beef and pork, &c. out of the ground tier, and putting a quantity of ballad in their place. The (hip was ordered to be caulked, which Hie flood in much need of ; having, at times, made a confiderable deal of water on our paflage from the Friendly Iflands. Captain Cook alfo put his cattle on (horc, and appointed two of his men to look after them while grazing ; not intending to leave any of them on this part of the ifland. It rained, almofl: inceflantly, the two following days i notwithftanding which, we were vifitcd by 6 the PACI FIC OCEAN. 3^3 the natives Jrom every quarter, the news of our arrival having mofl: rapidly fpread. Waheiadooa, though at a confiderable diftance, had been in- formed of it; and in the afternoon of the i6th, a chief, named Etorea, who was his tutor,, brought Captain Cook two hogs as a prefent from him ; acquainting him, at the fame time, that he him- felf would attend him the day after. He was punctual to his promife j for the Captain receiv- ed a meflage from him early the ncxi morning, notifying his arrival, and requefting he would go alhore to meet him. In confequence of this in- vitation, Omai and he prepared to make him a formal vifit. Omai, on thisoccafion, took fome pains to drefs hlmfelf, not after the manner of the Englilh, nor that of Otaheite, or Tongata- boo, or in the drefs of any other country upon earth j but in a ftrangc medley of all the habili- ments and ornaments he was poflefled of. Thus equipped, they got afhore, and firft paid a vifit to Etaryi who, carried on a hand-barrow, accompanied them to a large building, where he was fet down ; Omai feated himfclf on one fide of him, and Captain Cook on the other. The Captain caufed a piece of Tongataboo cloth to be fpread, on which were placed the prefents he intended to make. The young Chief foon after arrived, attended by his mother, and feveral prin- cipal men, who all feated themfclves oppofite tp us. A man v.ho fat near the Captain, made a Y 2 ihort \ » ■>-;-»* r ^ ' ->j ^ ?ifr*.\' ' g w N.iift i' :wwM ^ ww yw-J i ' wwviiiiVjjjfM isgj^ji^gf J24 A VOYAGE TO THE fhort Tpeech, confiding of feparate fentcnccsj part cf which was didated by thofe about him. Another, on the oppofite fide, near the chief, fpoke next; Etary after him, and then Omai, &c. The fubjedts of thefe orations were Captain Cook's arrival, and his connexions with them. Amongfl: other things, one of them told the Captain, that the men of Reema (the Spaniards) defired they would not fuffer him to come intoOheitepehaBay, if he fliould return again to the ifiand, for that it was their property ; but that, fo far from re- garding this requeft, he was authorized now to furrender to him the province of Tiaraboo, and every thing that was in it. It is evident from this, that thefe people are no ftrangcrs to the po- licy of accommodating themfelves to prefent cir- cumftances. The young chief, at length, was direded, by his attendants, to embrace Captain Cook J and, as a confirmation of this treaty of friendfiiip, they exchanged names. After thefe cerernonies were over, he and his friends accom- pajnied the Captain, to dine with him on board. Omai had prepared, as a prefent for Otoo, the king of the whole ifland, a marOy compofed of red and yellow feathers ; and, confidering where we were, it was a prefent of great value.^ Cap- tain Cook endeavoured to prevail on him not to produce it now, wifliing him to keep it till he had an opportunity of preifenting it to Otoo with his own hands. But he entertained too good an .. ,. » V ' opinion carry it to Otoo, »ng> 111!! PACIFIC OCEAN. 0^0 opinion of the fidelity of liis countrymen, to be guided by his advice. He was determined to carry it afhore, on this occafion, and to give it to Waheiadooa, to be forwarded by him to Otoo, and added to the royal maro. By this ma- nagement, he fuppofed he fhould oblige both chiefs i on the contrary, he highly dilbbliged that whofe favour was *of the moft confequence to him, without obtaining any reward from the other. The Captain was prophetic upon this oc- cafion i for Waheiadooa, as he expefled, kept the maro for himfelf, and only fent to Otoo about a twentieth part of what compofed the magnifi- cent ptefent. On the 19th, Captain Cook received, from the young chief, a prefent of ten or a dozen hogs, fome cloth, and a quantity of fruit. In the even- ing, we exhibited fome fireworks, which both pleafed and aftonilhed the numerous fpeftators. Someofourgentlemen, in their walks, difcover- ed, as they thought, aRoman Catholic chapeL They defcribed the altar which they faid they had feen, and every other conftituent part of fuch a place of worlhip. They mentioned, however, at the fiime time, that two perfons, who had the care of it, would not permit them to go in ; on which account the Captain imagined they were miftaken, and had the curiofity to pay a vifit to it himfelf. The fuppofed chapel happened to be a toopapaoo^ in which the body of the late Waheiadooa lay, in :i ; m H' Yj a kind 3^6 A VOYAGE TO THE a kind of ftate. It was in a pretty large houfe, cnclofed with a low palifade. The foopapaoo was remarkably neat, and refemblcd one of thofe little awnings over their large canoes. It was hung and covered with cloths and mats of a va- riety of colours, which had a beautiful efFeft. One piece of fcarlet broad cloth of the length of four or five yards, appeared confpicuous among the other ornaments j which had probably been received as a prefent from^e Spaniards. This cloth, and fome tafiels of feathers, fuggefted to our gentlemen the idea of a chapel j and their imagination fupplied whatever elfe was wanting to create a refemblance : hearing that the Spa- niards had vifited this place, might alfo operate on their minds upon this occafion, and add to the probability of its being a chapel. Small of- ferings of fruits and roots feemed to be daily made at this Ihrine, fome pieces being now cuite frefh. Thefe were depofited on a kind of altar, which flood without the palifades ; within which we were not permitted to enter. Two men con- flantly attended here, both night and day ; as well to watch over the place, as to drefs and un- drefs the toopapaoo. When Captain Cook went to furvey it, the cloth and its appendages were roiled up ; but, at his requeft, the two attendants placed it in order, but not till after they had drefled themfelvcs in clean white robes. The chiefs PACIFIC OCEAN* 327 cliief, we were informed, had been dead about twenty months. Having provided a frelh fupply of water, and finifhed all our neceflary operations, on the 2 2d we brought off our animals from Ihore, and made ready for fea. While the fnips were unmooring, Omai and Captain Cook landed, in the iTiorning of the 23d, to take leave of the young chief. While they were with him, one of thofe perfons, whom they call Eatooas, from a perfuafion that they pofTd's the fpirit of the divinity, prefented himfelf before them. He had all the appearances of infanity about him, and his only covering was a quantity of plantain leaves wrapped round hi1.. 534 A VOyACE TO THB Captain Cook had carried him from Ulietea on board his fhip in 1773, ^^^ brought him back in •the fucceeding year, after he had vifited the Friendly Iflands, New-Zealand, Eafter Ifland, and the Marqiiefas. He had come from Bolabola (of which he was a native) to Otaheite, about three months before, probably with the fole view of gratifying his curiofity. He preferred the modes, and even drefs, of his countrymen to ours ; for, though Captain Cook gave him fome clothes, which ourBoard of Admiralty had thought proper to fend for his ufe (to which he added a chefl: of tools, and feveral other articles, as a prefent from himfelf) he, after a few days, de- clined wearing them. This inftance, as well as that of the perfon who had been at Lima, may be adduced as a proof of the ftrong inclination ©f mankind in general to habits acquired at an early age; and it is perhaps no unreafonable fuppo* fition, that even Omai, who had imbibed almoft the whole Englifh manners, will, in a fhort time after being left by us, return, like Oedidee, and the vifiter of Lima, to his own native garments, and his original mode of life. In the morning of the 27th, a man from Ohei- tepeha informed us, that two Spanifli fhips had anchored in that bay the preceding night ; and to confirm this intelligence, he produced fome coarfe blue cloth, which, he faid, he had got out of one of the ihips. He further faid, that Mateema was in PACIFIC OCEA^, 335 in one of the (hips j and that they would come to Matavai in two or three days. Thefe, and fome other circumftances, which he mentioned, gave the ftory fo much the appearance of truth, that the Commodore difpatched Lieutenant William- fon in a boatj to look into Oheitepcha Bay ; and, in the mean time, both our (hips were put in a pofture of defence. For, though England and Spain were at peace when he left England, he did not know but that a different fcene might, by this time, have opened. Upon enquiry, how- ever, we had reafon to imagine, that the relater of the (lory had impofed upon us; and this was put beyond all doubt, when Mr. Williamfon re- turned the day following, who made his report to Captain Cook, that he had been at Oheitepeha, and found that no (hips were there at prefcnt, nor had any been there fince we left it. The people of this part of the ifland, where we now were fta- tioned, told us, indeed, at firft, that it was a fidtion invented by thofe of Tiaraboo. But what view they could have, we could not conceive, unlefs they fuppofed that the report would induce 115 to quit the ifland, and thus deprive the inha- bitants of Otaheite-nooe of the advantages they might otherwife reap from our fliips remaining there; the natives of the two parts of the ifland being inveterate enemies to each other. Since we arrived at Matavai, thevvcathc^r had been very unfettled till the 25^1 ; before which day I ' ! "xy^ i M v • 0mv t «m f i v mPf3 ^ v } :(j_m t mi : S !l^& 33^ A VOYACli TO ThJE day we were unable to get equal altitudes of the ion for afcertaining the going of the time-keeper. The caulking, and other repairs of the fhips, were alfo retarded by the fame caufe. In the evening of this day, the iflanders made a precipitate re- treat, both from our land ftation, and from on board the (hips. We conjeflured that this arofe from their knowing that fomc theft had been com- mitted, and apprehending punilhment upon that account. At length, we became acquainted with the whole affair. One of the Surgeon's mates had made an excurfion into the country to purchafe curiofities, and had taken with him four hatchets for the purpofe of exchange. Having been fo imprudent as to employ a native to carry thcmj the fellow took an opportunity of running ofFwith To valuable a prize. This was the reafon of the fudden flight, in which Otoo himfelf, and all his family, had joined i and it was with difficulty that the Captain (topped them, after following them for the fpace of two or three miles. As he had determined to take no meafures for the recovery of the hatchets, that his people for the future might be more upon their guard againft fuch neg- ligence, every thing quickly refumed its former tranquillity. The next morning, fome mefTengers arrived from Eimeo, with intelligence, that the people of that.ifland were in arms j and that Otoo's par- tizans^ there had been obliged by the oppofite ;■ f party w PACIFIC OCtAN. 337 i.': party to retreat to the mountains. The qnarrcl between the two iflands, v hich began in i~74, had partly fubfifVcd ever fince. A formid tblc armannent had filled foon after Captain Cook left Otahcite in his laft voyage; buc the malecontents ofEimeohad made fo gallant a refidance, that the fleet had returned without fuccefs ; and now another expedition was deemed nectlTary. On the arrival of thefe meflengers, tlie chiefs aflem- bled at Otoo*s houfe, where the Captain aftually was at that time, and had the honour of being admitted into their council. One of the mcffen- gers opened the bufinefs with a fpeech of confider- able length, the purport of which was to explain the fituation of afl^airs in Eimeo, and to excite the Otaheitcan chiefs to arm on the occafion. This opinion was oppofed by others who were againft commencing hoftiiities; and the debate was, for fome time, carried on with great order and deco- rum. At length, however, they became very tumultuous, and the Captain began to expe6l that their meeting would conclude like a Polifh diet. But the contending chiefs cooled as fait as they grew warm, and order was fpeedily rcftored. In. the end, the party for war prevailed j and it was refolved, though not unanimoufly, that a (Irong force Ihould be fcnt to Eimeo. Oloo fuid very little during the whole debate. Thofe of the council, who were inclinable for war, applied to the Captain for his afliftance ; and all of them Vol. I.— n*" 6, Z were ; f-. W ! f^rSHfJ 333 A VOYAGE TO THE were defiroiis of knowing what part he would take* Omai was ient for to a6t as his interpreter i but, as he could not be found, the Captain, beino- under a necefHty of fpeaking for himfelf, told them, as well as he eould, that, as he was not perfedly acquainted with the difpute, and as the natives of Eimeo had never given him the leafl: caufe of offence, he could not think of engaging in hoftilities againft them. With this declaration, they either were, or appeared to be, fatisfied* The council was then diffolved ; but, before the Captain retired, Otoo defired him to come again in the afternoon, and bring Omai with him. A party of us accordingly waited upon him at the appointed time ; and he condudted us to his father, in whofe prefence the djfpute with Eimeo was again difcuffed. Th^ Commodore being very defirous of effecting an accommodation, founded the old chief on that fubjeft ; but he was deaf to any fuch propofal, and fully determined to carry on hoftilities. On our enquiry into the caufe of the war, we were informed, that, feveral years ago, a brother of Waheiadooa, of Tiaraboo, was fent to Eimeo, at the dcfire of Maheine,. a popu- lar chief of that ifland, to be their king; but had not been there many days before Maheine, having caufed him to be put to death, fet up for himfelf, in oppofition to. Tierataboonooe, nephew of the deceafed, who now became the lawful heir, or perhaps had been appointed, by the people of Otaheitc, IpAC^FIC OCEAN. 339 Otabeite, to fucceed to the government on the death of the other. Towh^a who is related to Otoo, and chief of the diftrid of Tettaha, and who had been com- mander in chief of the armament fent againft Eiriieo in 1774, happened not to be at Matavai at this time, and, therefore, was not prefent at thefc confultations. It appeared, however, that he WJS no ftr^nger to what was tranfaded -, and that he entered into the affair with great eagernefs mnd fpirit. For, on the ift of Septembe*- a mef- fenger arrived from him to acquaint Otoo, that he had killed a man to be facrificed to the Eatooa, witji the view of imploring the afliftance of the deity againft Eimeo, This ceremony was to be performed at the great morai, at Attahooroo ; and Otoo's prefence was necefiliry on the occafion. Captain Cook was defirous of being prefent at this folemn^ty, and t|ierefore j ropofed to Otoo, that he niight be pernnitted to accompany him. To this the kiiig readily confented ; and they imme- diately fet out in the Captain's boat, with his old friend Potatou, Mr. Anderfon, and Mr. Webber, while Omai followed them in a canoe. In theif way they landed upon a fmall jHand, lying off Tettaha, where they found Towha and his atten- dants. After a little converfation between the two chiefs, on the fubjedl of the war, Towha ad- drefTed himfelf to the Captain, foliciting his afTiIl- ance. When he excufed himfelf, Towha fcemed Z 2 dil"^ 5?" f i¥> A VOYAGE TO THE difijlcMfed ; thinking it rather extraordinary, that one who had conllantly declared himfelf the friend of their idand, lliould now refufe to fight againft its enennies. Before they parted, Towha gave to Otoo two or three red feathers, tied up in a tuft; our party then re-embarked, having taken on bo3rd a priefl who was to aflift at the folemnity. As foon as they landed at Attahooroo, which was about two o'clock, Otoo defired that the failors might be ordered to continue in the boat; and that Captain Cook, Mr. Anderfon, and Mr. Webber, would take off their hats as foon as they lliould come to the moraiy to which they imme- diately proceeded, attended by numbers of men, and fome boys; but not one woman was prefent. They found four priefts, with their afliftants, waiting for them. The dead body, or facrifice, was in a fmall canoe, that lay on the beach, front- ing the moral. Two of the priefls, with feveral of their attendants, were fitting by the canoe; the others at the morai. Our company flopped at the diftance of twenty or thirty paces from the priefts. Here Otro placed himfelf; our gen- tlemen, and a few others, Handing by him, while the majority of the people were ren /ed at a greater diftance. The ceremonies now commenced. One of the attendants of the priefts brought a young plan- tain-tree, and laid it down before the king. Ano- ther a]->proachcd, bearing a fmall tufc of red fea- thers. ■*4I n't*-'-' ■ ■■ -i 1 PACIFIC OCEAN. ;4i thcrs, twifted on fome fibres of the cocoa-nut hulk, with which he touched one of Otoo's feet, and after\Yards retired with it to his companions. One of the priefts who were feated at the morar, now began a Jong prayer; and, at particular times, fent down young plantain-trees, which were placed upon the facriiiqe. During this prayer, ,an iflander, who ftood by the officiating pricft", held in his hands two bundles, in one of which,' as we afterwards found, .was the royal maro -, and the other, if we may be allowed the cxpreffion, was the ark of the Edtooa, The prayer being finifhed, the priefts at the morai, with their affiftants, went and fat down by thofe who were upon the beach, carrying the two bun- dles with them. They here renewed their prayers ; during which the plantain-trees were taken, one by one, at various times, from oiF the dead body, which, being wrapped up in cocoa-leaves and fmall branches, was now taken out of the canoe, and laid upon the beach. The priefts placed themfelves around it i fome ftanding, and others fitting; and onCj or more of them, repeated fcntences for about cen minutes. The body was now ftripped of the leaves and branches, and placed parallel with the fea-fhore. Then one of the priefts, ftanding at the feet of the corpfe, pronounced a long prayer, in which he was occafionally joined by the others, each of them holding a tuft of red feathers in his hand. During this prayer, fome hair was pulled I Z 3 off ^ ■ 1 !i ^:^ 1 i r mm* «pp 342 A YOYAGt tt) TftE off the head bfthe mrcncted fiicrificfei Hwrd the itft eye was taken out j both which (beitijg wrapped up -in a green leaf, were prefentcd to the king j wfeo, however, did not tcuch them, feut jgave, to t^ man who prefented them, the tuft of red feathers which he had received from Towha. Thisb with the eye and hair, was taken to the priefts. Not long after, his majefty fent them another piece of feathers. In the courfe off this laft: deremonv, a king-fiflier making a noiife in the trees, Otoo turned to Captain Cook^ faying, ** That is the Eaioca-i* and feemed to conlider it as a favour- able prognoftic. The corpfe was then can4ed ft littfe way, and laid under a tree ; near wMdh \v%*e fixed thtee thin pieces df wood, variou^y carved. Thelnin- dles of cloth were placed '6h ft ipart of the m6rm\ and the tufts of red feathers were laid ^t tlie feet of the dead body, round which the prieUfs^tioned themfelves j and our genftkmen wVrt; novtr 'per- mitted to go as near as "th^ pleaffed. fie *who feemed to -be the dhief piriic^ft fpc^ie for afboirt ^ quarter of an hour, %ith differehft tones 'and gef- tures i fometimes appearing to dxpoft^ate with the deceafed j at other times, s^fkih^ feverarl quef- tions ; then m&kii>g various ^mands, fts if the dead perfon either had power bimfelf, Gt ihttreft with the deity, to engage him to grawt fwch Te-. quefts J among which he defired him to deliver Eimeo, IMaheine its chief, ^hc -vdmen, hogs, and other PACIFIC OCEAN. 343 otfuer things of the ifland, into their hands; which was, indeed, the exprefs objeft of the fa- crificc. He then prayed near half an hour, in a whining tone, and two other priefts joined in the prayer, in the courfc of which a prieft plucked fome more hair from the head of the corpfc, and put it upon one of the bundles. The chief prieft now prayed alone, holding in his hand the fea- thers received from Towha. Having finiflied, tie gave them to another prieft, who prayed in like manner j then all the tufts of feathers were placed upon the bundles of cloth, which con- cluded the ceremony at this place. The dead body was now carried to the moft confpicuous part of the morai, with the feathers and the two bundles of cloth, while the drums fecat flowly. The feathers and bundles were laid againft the pile of ftones, and the body at the foot of them. The priefts having again feated themfelves round the corpfe, renewed their pray- ers, while fome of their afliftants dug a hole about the depth of two feet, into which they threw the vidim, and covered it over with' ftones and earth. While they were committing the body to the grave, a boy fqueaked aloud, upon which Omai faid to Captain Cool:, that it was the Eatooa. A fire having been made in the mean tinie, a lean half-ftarved dog was produced, and killed by twifting his neck. The hair was then Tinged off, and the entrails being taken out, Z 4 were itiii I A if : :J44 A VOYAGE TO THE were rhrown into the fire, where they were left to be confumed} but the kidney, heart, and Jiver, were only roafted, bv being put on heated flones i and the carcafe of the dog, after being rubbed over with the blood, was, with the liver, &c. laid down before the priefts, who were feat- cd round the grave, praying. They for fome time uttered ejaculations over the dog, while two men, at intervals, beat very^loud on two drunks j and a boy fcrcamed, in a loud fhrill voice, three tinnes. This, they faid, was to invite the Eatooa to feaft on the banquet that they had provided for him. When the priefts had finifhed their prayers, the body, heart, liver, &c. of the dog, were placed on a whattay or fcaffold, about ^ik feet in height, on which lay the remains of iwo other dogs, and of two pigs, which had been lately facrificcd. The priefts and attendants now gave a kind of fhoiit, which put an end to the ceremonies for the prefent. The evening being arrived, our gentlemen were conduced to a houfe belonging to Potatou, where they were entertained and lodged for the night. Having been informed, that the religious rites were to be renewed the next morning, they would not quit the place while any thing remained to be itG:i. Some of them repaired to the fcene of adtion early in the morning ; and, foon afterwards, a pig was facri- ficcd, and laid upon the faine fcaffold with the others. About eight o'clock, Ocoo took our party PACIFIC OCEAM. 345 party again to the mcraiy where the priells, and a great multitude of people, were by this time affembled. The two bundles occupied the place where they had been depofited the preceding evening j the two drums were in the front of the morai, and the priefts were (lationed beyond them. The king placed himfclf between the drums, and defired Captain Cook to ftand by him. The ceremony of this day began with bringing a young plantain-tree, and laying it at his ma- jefty's feet. A prayer was then repeated by the priefts, holding in their hands feveral tufts of red feathers, and alfo a plume of odrich feathers, which the Commodore had prefented to Otoo on his firft arrival. When the priefts had ended.the prayer, they changed their ftation, and placed themfelves between our gentlemen and the morai. One of them, the fame who had performed the principal part the preceding day, began another prayer, which continued near half an hour. During this prayer, the tufts of red feathers were put, one by one, upon the ark of the Eatooa, Not long after, four pigs were produced, one of which was immediately killed, and the three others were taken to a neigiibouring fty. One of the bundles was now untied ; and it wa? found to contain the maroy with which the Ota- heiteans inveft their kings. When taken out of the cloth, it was fpread on the ground, at full length, before the priefts. I^is a girdle about fifteen II I « wmmmim 34^ A VOYAGE TO THE fifteen ftti in length, and one foot ancl a quarter in breadth, and is probably put on in the fame manner as the common maroj or piece of cloth, \jfed by thefe iflanders to wrap round the waift. It was ornamented with yellow and red fcatheis ; but principally with the former. One end of it was bordered with eight pieces, about the fizc and figure of a horfc-fhoe, whofe edges were frirvged with black feathers. The other end was forked, having the points of various lengths. The feathers were ranged in iwo rows, in fquare compartments, and produced a pleafing cffed. They had been firft fixed upon fome of tht cloth of the ifland, and then fewed to the upper end of the pendant which Captain Wallis had left flying on Ihore, the firft time of his arrival at Matavai. The priefts pronounced a long prayer, relative to this part of the ceremony j and after it was ended, the badge of royalty was folded up with great care, and put into the cloth. The other bundle, which we have already men- tioned under the name of the arlc, was next open- ed, at one end j but our party were not permitted to approach near enough to examine its myfte- rious contents. The intelligence they obtained refpefling it was, that the Eatooa, (or rather what is fuppofed to reprefent him) was concealed in it. This facred repofitory is compofed of the twitted fibres of the huik of the cocoa-nut i and its ny TACIFIC OCEAir. 547 itis figure is roundifli, with ohc end cdnfiderably thicker than the other. The pig that had been killed was by this time cleaned, and its entrai-ls taken out. Thefc hap- pened to have many of thofe convulfive moti- ons, which frequently appear, in different parts, when an animal is killed j and this was confider- ed ais a very favourable omen to the intended expedition. After being expofed for fomc time, the ehtrails Were carried and laid down before the priefts. While one of them prayed, another rlofely infpefted the entrails, and continued turn- ing thertn gently with a (lick. Having been fuf-» ficicntly examined, they were thrown into the lire. The facrificed pig, and Its liver, heart, &c. were nbw |pMt upon tlhfc fcaffold where the dog had been depofitcdj and then all the feathers, except the ofech plwme, beitig enclofed in the $'rk, an &Ftd w^s piK to the whcde folefinnity. JFour double canoes ^remained upon the beach, ^11 tihe morning, before the place of facrifice, A Imall platform, covered with palm-leaves, Taftened in myfterious knots, was fixed on the Ibre-par-t of each of thefe canoes j and this alib is tailed ft mcfrai. Some plantains, cocoa-nuts, •bi^e^d-fruit, 'fi^, and other articles, lay upon •«ifilch of thdfe n&iVal ittorals. The natives faid, ^feat ♦tiiey belonged to the Eatooa, and that they -•sffett to attend diie fieeic that Was to be fent 6Ut )f%aii^1t £fl!if)eo. ' The .1.1 mmmmm mmKm o48 A VOYAGE TO THE The unfortunate vidim, offered on this occa- fieri, was, to appearance, a middle-aged man, and was one of the loweft clafs of the people. But it did not ap'-ear that they had fixed upon him on account of his having committed any particular crime, that deferved death. It is cer- tain, however, that they ufually fclecb fuch guilty pcrfons for their facrificcs, or elfe, vagabonds, who have no vifible way of procuring an honeft Jivelihood. Our gentlemen having examined the appearance of the body of the unhappy fufferer, now offered up to the objeft of thefe people's worfliip, obfcrved, that it was bloody about the head and face, and much bruifed upon the right temple, which denoted the manner in which he had been killed. And they were informed, that he had been knocked on the head with a ftonc. The wretches who are deftined to fuffer on thefQ occafions, are never previoufly apprized qf their fate. Whenever anyone of the principal chiefs deems a human facrifice neceffary, pn^^iny great emergency, he fixes upon the vidim, and then difpatches feme of his trufly fervants, who fall upon him fuddenly, and either ftone him to death, or beat out his brains with a club. The fovereign is next acquainted with it, whofe pre- fcnce is faid to be abfolutely requifite at the for- kmn rites that follow; and, indeed, on the late occafion, Ono bore a capital part. The folem* nity itfcif is termed Poore Eree, or the prayer of t;he Pacific ocean. 349 the chief; and the vi6tiiTi is called ^uata-taboo, or confccrated man. The mcraif where the late facrifice was offered, is always appropriated for the burial of the king of the whole ifland, and likevvife of his fannly, and fome other perfons of diftinguifiicd rank. It differs little, except in extent, from the com- mon morals* Its principal part is a large oblong pile of Clones, about thirteen feet in height, and contraded towards the top, with a quadrangular area on each fide, loofcly paved with pebbles, under which the bones of the chiefs are dcpofit- cd. Not far from the end nearcft the fea, is the place of facrifice, where is a very large whatta, or fcaffold, on which the offerings of fruits, and other vegetables, are placed i but the animals arc laid on a .fmaller one, and the human Hicrifices are interred under the pav( i-pcnt. There are fe- veral reliques fcattcred about the place ; fuch as fmall ftones raifed in various parts of the pave* mcnt, fome with bits of cloth faftened round them, others entirely covered with it j and, upon the fide of the large pile, fronting the area, are a great number of pieces of carved wood, in which their gods are fuppofed to refide occafi- onally. There is a heap of flones, at one end of the large fcaffold, with a fort of platform on one fide. On this they depofit all the fkuUs of the human facrifices, which they take up after they have remained under ground for fome months. II I h 350 A VOYAGE TO THE Juft above them, many of the caj ved pieces of wood are placed j and here the mare, and the other bundle^ which was fuppofed to contain the god OorOy were laid, during the celebration qf the late folemn rites. It is probable, that this barbarous cuftom of offering human vifbims, prevails in all, or moft of the iflands of the Pacific Ocean, however dif- tant from each other fomc of them may be. And though wc (hould fuppofe, that not more than one perfon is facrificed at one time, either at Otaheite, or other. iQands, yet thefe occafions, in all probability, occur fo frequently, as tq m^ike a terrible havock of the human fpecies j for Cap- tain Cook, reckoned no lefs than forty-nine fkylls, of former viflims, lying before the morai, at Attahooroo j and as none of thofe (kuUs appear- ed to have fufFered any confiderable change, or decay, from the weather, it may be inferred, that but a fhort time had clapfcd Cinzr. thefe viftims had been offered. This Horrid pradice, though no confideration whatever* can make it ceafe t^ be deteftable, might, perhcips, be thought hfs detrimental, in feme refpefts, if it contributed to imprtjfs any awe for the Deity, or vefieratiqjfi for religion, upon the minds of the fpe<^4tQF|fc But this was fo far from being the cafe qfi $hf late occafion, that though a vaU muitU^ide of people had allembled at the mom, they (h?we4 very litde reverence for what was traflf4<^ing. And PACIFIC OCEAN. 3S^ And Omai happening to arrivt, after the cere- monies had begun, many of the iflanders throng- ed round him, and were engaged, for the re- maining part of the time, in making him recount fome of his adventures j to which they liftened with great eagernefs of attention, regardlefs of the folemn offices which their priefts were then performing. Indeed, the priefts themfelves, ex- cept the one who fuftained the principal pa'*t» ^ either from their being familiarized to fuch ob- jefts, or from their repofing no great degree of confidence in the efficacy cc their religious in- ftitutions, maintained vei/ little of that folem- nity which is neceflary to give to afts of devo- tion their proper effcd. Their habit was but an ordinary one j they converfed together with greac famil'.arity ; and the only attempt they made to prefc "ve decorum, was by exerting their authority, to prpvent the populace from encroaching on the yfity fpot where the rites were performed, and to fuffer our gentlemen, as ftrangers, to come forward. They were, however, very candid in the anfwers which they gave to any interrogato^- ries that were put tc them, with regard co thia inhunian inftituiion. And, particularly, on being aiked, what was the defign o ' it, they replied, that it was an ancient cuftom, and was highly agreeable to their god, who came and fed upon the facrifices j in confequence of which, he grant- ed their petitions. It was then objecled, that he . 4 certainly T k I . I' I 1i ■M J53 A VOYAGE TO THE certainly did not feed on thefe, as he was neither bbferved to do ir, nor were the bodies of the fa- crificed animals foon confumed j and that as to the corpfc of a human vidim, they prevented his feeding on that, by interring it. In anfwer to thefe objedtions, they gave ic as their opinion, that he came in the night, invifibly, and fed only on the foul, or immaterial part, which (thefe people fay) remains about the place of facrifice, till the carcafe of the vifbim is totally wafted by purrefa(5lion. Human facrifices are not the onlv barbarous cuftom that ftill prevails amongft the inhabitau' of Otaheite, though, in many other refpeft.s, they have emerged from the brutal manners of favage life. Befides cutting out the jaw bones of their enemies flain in battle, which they carry about with them as trophies, they, in fome meafure, offer up their bodies to the Eatooe, Soon after an engagement, in which they have come off vic- torious, they coilec^l all the dead, and bring them to the moraiy where, with great form and cere- mony, they dig a large hole, and bury them all in it, as fo many offerings to their d'vinities. They treat, in a different manner, their own chiefs that fall in battle. Their late king, Too- taha, Tubourai-tamaide, and another chief, who were all flain in an engagement with thofe of Tiai aboo, were brought to the 7norai at Attahoo- roo. There the priefts cut out their bowels be- fore fACIFIC OCEAK. 3S3 fore the greit altar } and their dead bodies were afterwards interred in three different places, near the great pile of ftones above-mentioned j and the common men, who loft their lives in the bat- tle, were all buried in one hole, at the foot of the fame pile. This was performed the day after the battle, with much pomp and formality, amidft a numerous concourfe of people, as a thankfgiv- ing offering to the Deity, for the vidory they had obtained the preceding day. The vanquiih- ed, in the mean time, had taken refuge in tlic mountains, where they remained upwards of a week, till the fury of the vidtors began to abate, A treaty was then fet on foot, by which it was agreed, that Otoo fliould be proclaimed king of the whole ifland ; and the folemnity of invefting him . with the maro, or badge of royalty, was performed at the fame morai^ with great magni- ficence. Vol. I. — N-^ 6. Aa CHAP. SSi A VOyA-CB TO THB CHAP. m. ~ Jte-emhark for Mafavai-^Conference withTowhn refpe£fing the human Sacrifice — IXefcripfion of thi Heevas — Dinner given hy^ Omai-^Exhibition of Fire-works — Remarkable Method of making a Prefent of Cloth-^Manner of frefervtngy for many Months, the dead Body of a Chief -^ Another hu- . man Sacrifice offered — Riding on Horfeback, Matter of /' ^^' Afionijhment to the Natives — Otoo's great . ention to prevent thefts, &c. — Animals' given to him by Captain Cook — Audience given- : to Etaryy 13 c .-^Manner of fighting fvoo War Canoes — Naval Power y (^c, AT the clofe of the very extraordinary fcene, exhiWted at the morai, and particularly defcribed in the laft chapter, our party embarked about twelve o*clock, in order to return to Ma- tavai J and, in their way, paid a vifit t© Towha,. who had continued in the little ifland, where they meo him the preceding day» Some converfation on public affairs pafled between Otoo and him ; and the latter entreated Captain Cook, once more, to join them as an ally, in their war againft Ei- meo. By his pofitive refufal he entirely loft the good opinion of this chief. Before PACIFIC OCEAN# ^ C^ Before they fcparated, he interrogated our gen- tlemen concerning the folemnity, at which the/ had l^ccn prefent j and afkcd, particularly, if it an-» fwcred their expectations j "what opinion they en- tertained of its efficacy j and whether fuch afts of worlhip were frequent in their own country ? Hicy had been filent during the celebration of the hor- rid ceremony ; but, as foon as it was completed, freely exprelTed their fenticients upon the fub* jed, to Otoo, and his attendants ; confequently Captain Cook did not conceal his deteftation of it, in this convcrfation with Towha* Exclufive of the barbarity of the bloody cuftom> he urged the unreafanablenefs of it, alledging that fuch a facrifice, inftead of making the Eatooa propitious to their nation, would excite his vengeance ; jfnd that, from this very circumftance, he concluded, that their intended expedition againft Maheine would be unfuccefsful. This was proceeding to great lengths upon conjcdure ; but there was lit- tle danger of being miilaken ; for, refpeding this war, there were three parties in this ifland, one violent for it, another pcrfedly indifferent about it ; and aie third avowed fupportcrs of Maheine, and his caufe. Under thefe circumftances, it was not probable that fuch a plan of military opera- tions womld be. fettled, as could infurc fuccefs- Omai adredas imerprccer, in conveying the Gap- tain's fcntimeucs to Towha, on the fubje ;, fome ^of which were foid on board chelbips. Otoo was equally attentive to fupply our wants, and contribute to ouramifcment. On the loth, he treated a party of us at Oparre, with a play. His three fifters were the performers, and their dreffes were new and elegant, much more fb than we had met with in any of thefe iflands. The principal objeft, however, that the Cap- tain had now in view, in going to Oparre, war. to fee an embalmed corpfc, near the refidence of Otoo. On enquiry^ he foMnd it to be the re- mains. *•• t If;! !\ 1 1 •» '■ ,Hi.1-,tw '-^l c C S t|!: i^ACIFIC OC^AN, 3^1 ^mainsi of Tee, a chief whom he well knjew, when he laQ; yifited this ifland. It was lying in an elegant toppapaosy in all refpeds fimilar to thaj at Ohcitepeha, in which the remains of ^^^ aheia- dooa are depofitcd. We found the body was under cover, within the toopapaooy and wrapped up in cloth. At the Captain's defire, the per- Ibn who had the care of it, brought it out, arid placed it on a kind of bier, fo as to give a per- fe6t view of it ; but we were not admitted within the pales that enclofcd the toopapaoo. The corpf1rAclS td tJlE :i fefved th^m feverdl fnonths ; aftfci- wfiich thisy moulder away gradually. Omai informed us, that the bodies of ail their great men, who die a ni- turaJ death, are thus preferved j and are r -jpofed to public view for a very confid6rable time af- ter. At firft, they are exhibited every fine day ; afterwards, the intervals become greater and greater ; and, at laft, they are very feldom to be feen. We quitted Oparre in the evening, leaving Otoo, and all the royal family. The Captain faw none of them till the 1 2th j when all, except the chief liimfelf, honoured him with a vifu. He was gone, they faid, to Attahooroo, to affift at another human facrVfice, fent by the chief of Tiaraboo to be offered up at the morai. This fecond inftance, within fo Ihort a period, was a melancholy proof, that the vidlims of this bloody fuperftition arc very numerous amongft this hu- mane people. The Captain would have been prefent at this facrifice alfo, had he been earlier informed of it, but now it was too late. For the fame reafon, he omitted being prefent at a public tranfaftion, at Oparre, the pieceding day, when Otoo, with great fokmnity, reflored to the adherents of the late king Tootaha, the lands and poirefTiotis, of which, after his death, they had been deprived. : Otoo returned the next evening, from exer- cifmg the raoft difagrecable of i/is royal duties; and. PACIFIC OCEAN. 365 and, the next day, being honoured with his com- pany, the Captains Cook and Clerke, mounted on- horfeback, and rode round the plain of Ma- tavai, to the aftonifliment of a vaft train of fpec- tators. Once or twice, before this, Omai had, indeed, attempted to get on a horfe ; but he had as often fallen ofF, before he could contrive to feat himfelf properly j this was, therefore, the firft time they had feen any body on horfeback. What the Captains had begun, was repeated dai- ly, by one or another of our people j and yet the.curiofity of the natives continued unabated. After they had feen the ufe that was made of thefe animals, they were exceedingly delighted with them i and we were of opinion, that they conveyed to them a better idea of the greatnefs of other nations, than all the novelties that their Eu- ropean vifitors had carried amongft them. The next day, Ktary, or Olla, the god of Bo- labola, removed from the neighbourhood of Ma- tavai, to Oparre, attended by feveral failing ca- noes. Otoo, we were told, did not approve of his being fo near our ftation, where his people could more conveniently invade our property. Otoo, it muftbe acknowledged, took every pru- dent method to prevent thefts and robberies j and it was principally owing to his regulation.s that fo few were committed. He had creftcd a fmall houfe or two, behind our poft 3 and two others near our tents, between the river and the iea, ! I! ! .| J •f^^ "^^^nmrnm 3^4 A VOYACE TO THE fea. Sorric of his own people continually kept watch in all thefe places; and, as his father ufually refided on Matavai Point, we were, in a manner, furrounded by them. They not only defended us in the night from thieves, but they had an opportunity of obferving every thing that pafTed in the day i and were ready to receive con- tributions from fuch girls, as were privately con- nedled with our people, which was ufually done every morning j fo that the meafures he had taken to fecure our fafety, anfwered the more cfTential purpofe of enlarging his own profits. Otoo acquainted Captain Cook, that his pre- fence was required at Oparre, where an audience was to be given to the great perfonage from Bo- iabola, and begged he would accompany him thither. The Captain readily confented, expect- ing to meet with fomething deferving his notice. Accordingly, they fet out on the i6ch, attended by Mr. Anderfon. Nothing, however, occur- red, that was interefting or curious. Etary and his followers prefented fome coarfe cloth and hogs to Otoo, with fome ceremony, and a fet fpeech. After this, a confultation was held be- tween them and fome other chiefs, about their expedition to Eimeo. Etary, at firft, difapproved of it i but his objections were at length over- ruled. It appeared, indeed, the next day, that it was too late to deliberate upon this bufmefs j for, in the evening, a meflcnger arrived with in*- tcUigence, I PACIFIC OCEAN. 3^5 tclligcnce, that there had been fome fkirmKhcs, but that the lofs or advantage,- on either fide, was inconfiderable. Captain Cook, Mr. Anderfon, and Omai, in the morning of the i8th, went again to Oparre, accompanied by Otoo; taking with them the fheep which the Captain intended to leave upon the ifland. They confifted of an Englifh ram and ewe, and three Cape ewesj all which he made a prefent of to Otoo. All the three cows had taken the bull ; he therefore thought it advife- ablc to divide them, and carry fome to Ulietea. With this view, he ordered them to be brought before him, and propofed to Etary, that if he would leave h' bull with Otoo, he Ihould have this, and one of the cows. To this propofal, Etary, at firft, ftarted fome obje6tionsi bur, at laft, agreed to it ; however, as the cattle were putting into the boat, one of Etary 's followers oppofed the making any exchange whatever. The Captain, upon this, fufpeding that Etary had agreed to the arrangement, for the prefent, only to pleafe him, dropped the idea of an ex- change; and finally determined to leave them all with Otoo; whom he ftridtly enjoined not to fuf- fer • them to be removed from Oparre, till he Ihould have got a ftock of young ones ; which he might then difpofe of to his friends, or fend t« the neighbouring iflauds. * i;i (J ill This 36« A VOYAGE TO THl This matter being fettled, our gentlemen left Etary and his party> and attended Otoo to another place, not far diftant, where they found the fer- vants of a chief, waiting with a hog, a pig, and a dog, as a prefent from their maftcr to the king* Thefc were delivered with the ufual ceremonies, and an harangue, in which the fpeaker enquired after the health of Otoo, and of all his principal people. This compliment was re-echoed in the name of Otoo, by one of his minifters j and then the difpute with Eimeo was formally difcuffed* The deputies of this chief were advocates for profeeuting the war with vigour, advifing Otoo to offer a human facrificc on the occafion* A chief, who conftantly attended the perfon of Otoo, oppofed it, feemingly with great ftrength of argument. The Captain was now confirmed in bis opinion, that Otoo never entered heartily into the fpirit of this war. He rt.v'ived repeated meflarges from Towha, urging him to haftcn to bis aflxftance. Having dined with Otoo, our party returned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparre. This day, and the 1 9th, we were very fparingly fupplied mtix fruit. Otoo being informed of this, he and his brother, who had, particularly attached himfelf to Captain Clerke, came from Oparre, with a large fupply for both Ihips. All the royal family came the next day with prefents, fo that we now had more provifions than we could confumc. Our Pacific ocEAWr 3^7 Our water being all on board, and every thing put in order, the Captain began to think of quit- ting the iHand, that he might have a fufficient time for vifiting others in this ndghbourhood. We therefore removed our obfervatories aad in- ftruments from the fhore, and bent the fails. Early the next morning, Otoo came on board to inform Captain Cook, that the war canoes of Matavai, and of three other diftrids, were going to join thofe belonging to Oparre, and that part of the ifland ; and that there would be a general review there. The fquadron of Matavai was foon after in motion j and after parading for fomc time about the bay, affembled alhore, near the. middle of it. Captain Cook now went in his boat to take a furvey of them. What they call their war canoes, which arc thofe with ftages, on which they fight, amount to about fixty in number j there are nearly as many more of a fmaller fizc. The Captain was ready tp have attended them to Oparre j but the chiefs foon after formed a refolution, that they would not nnove till the next day. This appeared to be a fortunate delay, as it afforded him fomc opportunity of getting fome infight into their manner of fighting. He therefore defired Otoo to give orders, that fome of them fliould go through t^e neceffary manoeuvres. Accordingly, two of them were ordered oi"" into the bay; in one of which Otoo, Capt. Cook, andMr.King, embarked, 6 and t-i fi t il 365 A VOYAGE TO THE and Oitiai went on boai^d the other. As foon as they had got ftifRcient fca-roOnij they faced, ad- vanced, and retreated by turns, as quick as their rowers could paddle* In the mean time, the warriors on the ftages flouriflicd their weapons, and played a variety of antkks, which could an- fwer no other purpofe than that of roofing their pafllons, to prepare them for the onfer. Otoo ftood by the fide of one ftage, giving the necef- fary orders, when to advance, and when to re- treat. Great judgment, and a very quick eye, fccmed requifite in this department, to feizc eve- ry advantage, and to avoid, every difad vantage. At length, after teveral times advancing to, and retreating from each other, the two canoes clof- cd, ftage to ftage j and after a. fevere, though fhort confli(5bi all the troops on Otoo's ftage were fuppofed to be killed, and Omai and his aflb- ciates boarded them, when inftantly Gtoo, and all the paddlers in his canoe, leaped into the fea, as if reduced to the neceffity of preferving their lives by'fwimming. According to Omai's information, their naval engagements are not always conduced in this manner. They fometimes lafh the two veflels together, head to head, and fight till all the war- riors on one fide or the other are killed. But this clofe combat is never pradifed, except when the contending parties are determined to conquer or die. Indeed, one or the other muft infallibly happen i PACIFIC OCEAN. 3h liappen j for they never give quarters, unlefs it be to referve their prifoners for a more cruel death the day following. All the power and ftrength of thcfe iflands He folely in their navies. A general engagement on land we never heard of here i and all their de- cifive battles are fought on the water. When the time and place of battle are fixed upon by both parties, the preceding day and night are fpent in feafting and diverfions. When the morn- ing approaches, they launch the canoes, make every neceflary preparation, and, with the day, begin the battle j the fate of which, in general, decides the difpute. The vanquifhed endeavour to fave themfdves by a precipitate flight j and thofe who reach the fhore fly, with their friends, to the mountains J for the vigors, before their fury abates, fpare neither the aged, nor women, or children. They affemble the next day, at the moraij to return thanks to the eatooa for the vic- tory, and offer up the flain and the prifoners, as facrifices. A treaty is then fet on foot ; and the conquerors ufually obtain their own terms ; by which large diftrids of land, and even whole iflands, fometimes change their owners. Omai faid he was once taken a prifoner by the men of Bolabola, and condufled to that iOand, where he and many others would have fuffered death the next day, had they not been fortunate enough to efcape in the night. Vol.1.— N° 6. B b This 1^1 310 A rot AGE, Ice. Thii mock-fight being over, Omai put on his fuit of armour, mounted a ftage in one of the canoes, and, thus equipped, was pad^ died all along the (hore of the bay, that every one might have a perfect view of him. His coat of mail, however, did not engage the attention of the multitude fo much as was expected. The novelty was in a great degree loft upon fome of them, who had fecn a part of it before j and there were others, who had conceived fuch a dif- like to Omai, from his folly and imprudence at this place, that they would hardly look at any thing that was exhibited by him, however fingu- Ur and new. THE END OF THE FIRST VOLUME', ■"■r