IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^>% 1.0 1.1 l^|2^ 12.5 ■^ 1^ 12.2 2.0 lu 14.0 Mil ,.,s^ 1 = IJ^ 1^ ' ^ 6" ► <^ ^>, .v^.-^^/' ^ ^S/ ^ v Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WeST MAIN STRliT WEBSTU,^^.Y. MSSO (: V I ki7 3-4503 CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes tachniques at bibiiographiques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. D Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur I I Covers damaged/ D Couverture endommagie Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaur^ et/ou pelliculie r~~1 Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ D D D Cartes gdographiques en couleur □ Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en coule couleur Bound with other material/ Reli6 avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La re liure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais, lorsque cela itait possible, ces pages n'ont pas 6t6 filmtos. Additional comments:/ Commentaires suppl^mentaires; L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a At6 possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mithode normale de filmage sont indiquis ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur □ Pages damaged/ Pages endommag^es I — I Pages restored and/or laminated/ D D Pages restaurdes et/ou pellicul6es Pages discoloured, stained or foxei Pages d6color6es, tacheties ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages d^tachies Showthrough/ Transparence Quality of prir Qualit^ inigale de I'impression Includes supplementary materii Comprend du matiriei supplimentaire [ I Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ r~n Pages detached/ r~n Showthrough/ I I Quality of print varies/ I I Includes supplementary material/ Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible Image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 filmdes A nouveau de fapon d obtenir la meilleure image possible. Th to Th pa of fill Or be thi sic oti fir Si( or Th sh Til wl Ml dll en be rifl re( mt Various pagingt. This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ Ce document est filmA au taux de reduction indiqu* ci-dessous. 10X 14X 18X 22X J 12X 16X 20X 26X 30X 24X 2IX 32X Th« copy filmad h«r« has b««n r«produc«d thanks to tha ganarosity of: Library Diviiion Provincial Archives of British Columbia L'axamplaira film* fut raproduit grica i la gAnArosit* da: Library Division Provincial Archives of British Columbia Tha imagas appaaring hara ara tha bast quality possibia conaidaring tha condition and lagibility of tha original copy and in kaaping with tha filming contract spacifications. Las imagas sulvantas ont At* raproduitas avac la plus grand soin, compta tanu da la condition at da la nattat* da l'axamplaira filmA. at Bn conformity avac las conditions du contrat da filmaga. Original copias in printad papar covari ara filmad baginning with tha front covar and anding on tha last paga with a printad or illustratad impras- sion, or tha back covar **fhan appropriata. All othar original copias ara filmad baginning on tha first paga with a printad or illustratad impras- slon. and anding on tha last paga with a printad or illustratad imprassion. Las axamplairas originaux dont la couvartura an papiar ast im;;rimia sont filmAs an comman9ant par la pramiar ^:at at mn tarminant soit par la darniAra pago qui comporta una amprainta d'imprassion ou d'iliustration, soit par la sacond plat, salon la cas. Tous las autras axamplairas originaux tiont f limAs an commandant par la pramiAra psga qui comporta una amprainta d'imprassion ou d'iliustration at an tarminant par la darniAra paga qui comporta una talla amprainta. Tha last racordad frama on aach microficha shall contain tha symbol -^ (maaning "CON- TINUED"), or tha symbol V (maaning "END"), whichavar applias. Un das symboias suivants apparaitra sur la darniAra imaga da chaqua microficha. salon la cas: la symbols — »> signifia "A SUiVRE ". la symbols Y signifia "FIN". Maps, platas. charts, ate, may ba filmad at diffarant raduction ratios. Thosa too larga to ba antiraly includad in ona axposura ara filmad baginning in tha uppar laft hand cornar. laft to right and top to bottom, as many framas as raquirad. Tha following diagrams illustrata tha mathod: Las cartas, planchas. tablaaux. ate. pauvant Atre fiimte * das taux da reduction diffArants. Lorsqua la documant ast trop grand pour Atra raproduit 9n un saul clich*. il ast film* * partir da I'angla supAriaur gaucha, da gaucha * droita, at da haut an bas. en pranant la nombre d'imagas nAcassairs. Las diagrammas suivants illustrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^. *. COOK'S VOYAGES. i « ri li^ ^■1- --«i»«« , -•jf *^«-v» i /■- ■•.;■* r ^:' h w % NARRATIVE ,M OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK'S VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD ; WITH AH ACCOUNT OJ HIS LIFE ■ . f - ' DTJRIVO THB PREVIOUS AND INTERVENING PERIODS! ALSO, ^ . ' ^^ AN APPENDIX, DBTAILXNO tub PROOEESS of THB VOYAOB AFTKR TUB DBATH OF CAFTAIB COOK. LONDON : MILNER AND COMPANY, LIMITED, PATERNOSTER ROW. COO) \h -^'lO .O m 19 •;'-s'.'SJ'i ■' '■■■■ ■■■•■-..■('tq C Lo-nvJ ♦ ' PRE^ACB. .■ «j; To .ail's Although I have often appeared before the pnblle as a nrriter, I never did it with no much diffidence and anxiety as on the present occasion. This arises from the peculiar nature of the worl^ in which I have now engaged. A Narrative of the Life and Actions of Captain Cook must principally consist of the voyages and discoveries which he made^ and the difficulties and dangers to which he was exposed. The private incidents concerning him, though collected with the utmost diligence, can never compare, either in numbei or importance, with his public transactions. His public trans- actions are the things that mark the man, that display hia mind and his character; and, therefore, they are the grand objects to which the attention of his biographer must be directed. However, the right conduct of this business is a point of no small difficulty and embarrassment. The ques- tion will frequently arise. How far the detail should be ex- tended t There Is a danger, on the one hand, of being carried to an undue length, and of enlarging, more than is needful, on facta which may be thought already sufficiently known ; and, on the other hand, of giving such a Jejune account, and such a slight enumeration of important events, as riiall disappoint the wishes and expectations of the reader. Of the two extremes, the last seems to be that which should 23457 o vi PREFACE. most be avoided ; for, unlen what Captain Cook performed, and what he encountered, be related somewhat at large, hit Vfe and actioni would be imrierfectly represented to the world. The proper medium appears to be, to bring forward the things in which he was personally concerned, and to pais slightly over other matters. Even here, it is scarcely possible, nor would it be desirable, to avoid the introduction of some of the most striking circumstances which relate to the new countries and inhabitants that were visited by our great navigator; since these constitute a part of the know- ledge and benefit derived from his undertakings. Whether I have been so haopy as to preserve the due medium, I presume not to determine. I havo been anxious to do it, without always being able iUIIy to satisfy my own mind that I have succeeded; on which account I shall not be surprised if different opinions sbould be formed on the sub- feet. In that case, all that I can offer in my defence will be, that I have acted to the best of my judgment. At any rate^ I flatter myself with the hope of having presented to the public a work not wholly uninteresting or unentertaining. Those who are best acquainted with Captain Cook's expe- ditions, may be pleased with reviewing them in a more tompendioiisform, and with having his actions placed in a close? pomt of view, in consequence of their being divested of the minute nautical, and other details which were essen- tially necessary in the voyages at large. As to those per- sons, if there be any, who have hitherto obtained but an imperfect knowledge of what was done and discovered by this illustrious man, they will not be offended at the length of the following narrative. In rarious respects, new information will be fonnd In the present performance; and other things, which were less perfectly known before, are set in a clearer and fuller light* This, I trust, will appear in the account of Captain Cook previous to his flrst voyage, and in other parts. It nay be observed, likewise, that the fresh matter now com- PREFACB. Vii V municated is of the most authentic kind, and derivva from the most rcsipcctable sources. My obligHtionsof this nature are, indeed, very great, and call for my warmest gratitude. The dates and facts relative to Captain Cook's different promotions are taken from the books of the Admiralty, by the direction of the noble lord who is at the head of that Board, and the favour of Mr. Stephens. I embrace with pleasure this opportunity of mentioning, that, in the course of my life, I have experienced, in several instances, Lord Howe's condescending and favourable attention. To Mr. Stephens I am indebted for other communications besides those which concern the times of Captain Cook's prefer- ments, and for his general readiness in forwurding the design of the present work. Tho Earl of Sandwich, the threat patron of our navigator, and tlie principal mover in Ills mighty undertakings, has honoured me with some im- portant information concerning him, especially with regard to the circumstances which preceded his last voyage. To Sir Hugh Palliser's zeal for the memory of his friend I stand particularly obliged. From a large commnnication, with which he was so good as to favour me, I have derived very material intelligence, as will appear in the course of the narrative, and especially in the account of Captain Cook previous to his first voyage. In that account are some facts which I received from Admiral Graves, through the hands of the Rev. Dr, Douglas, now Bishop of Carlisle (whose admirable Introduction to the Voyage to the Pacific Ocean must be of the most essential service to every writer of the Life of Captain Cook.) The Captain's amiable and worthy Widow, who is held in Just esteem by all his friends, has given me an account of several domestic circumstances. I should be deficient in gratitude, were I here to omit the name of Mr. Samwell; for, though what is inserted from him in tiiis work has already been laid before the public, it should be remembered, that through tho interposition of our common friend, the Rev. Mr. Gregory, it was originally written for ^ vtii PRBFACM. i my use, and flrccly consigned to my disposal) and that It was at my particular instance and request that it was se- perately printed. My obligations to other gentlemen will be mentioned in their proper places. But my acknowledgments are, above all, due to Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society for the inter- est he has taken in the present publication*. It was in con- sequence of his advice, that it was given to the world in the form which it now bears } and his assistance has been Invariable through every part of the undertaking. To him the inspection of the whole has been submitted ; and to him it is owing, that the work is, in many respects, far more complete than it would otherwise have been* The exertions of zeal and ftriendship, I have been so happy as to experience from him in writing the account of Captain Cook, have corresponded with that ardour which which Sir Joseph Banks is always ready to display in promoting whatever he Judges to be subservient to the canae of science and literature. THBAUTHOB. I ,«^ , ' "-.■■rs » *. t ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK, PBXYXOnS TO HIS FIB8T VOYAOB. ■jy ;; CAPTATxr James Cook had no claim to distinction on ac- count of tbe lustre of his birth, or the dignity of his ances- tors. His father, James Ck>olc, who from his dialect is supposed to haye been a Northumbrian, was in the humble station of a senrant in husbandry, and married a woman of the same ranic with himself, whose christian name was Grace. Both of them were noted in the neighbourhood for their honesty, sobriety, and diligence. They first lived at a village called Morton, and then removed to Marton, another village in the North-riding of Yorlcshire, situated on the high road from Gisborough, in Cleveland, to Stockton-upon- Tees, in the county of Durham, at the distance of six miles from each of these towns. At Morton, Captain Cook was bom, on the 27th of October, 1728 ; and, agreeably to the custom of the vicar of the parish, whose practice it was to baptize infants soon after their birth, he was baptized on the Srd of November following. He was one of nine children, all of whom are now dead, excepting a daughter, who mar- ried a fisherman at Redcar. The first rudiments of young Cook's education were received by him at Marton, w^iere he was taught to read by dame Walker, the schoolmistress of the Tillage. When he was eight years of age, his father, in consequence of the character he had obtained for industry, frugality, and skill in husbandry, had a little promotion bestowed vipon him, which was that of being appointed head-servant, or hind, to a farm belonging to Uie late Thomas Skottow £sq^ called Airy Holm^ near Great » ^r ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK, Ay tun. To this place, therefore, he removed with his family s and his son James, at Mr. Slcottow's expense, was put to a ^^ day-school in Ayton, where he was instructed in writing, , and in a few of the first rules in arithmetic. ,^ Before he was thirteen years of age, he was bound ar. apprentice to Mr. William Sanderson, ti haberdasher, or ^ shopkeeper, at Straiths, a considerable fishing town, about , ten miles north of Whitby. This employment, however, was very unsuitable to young Cook's disposition. The sea was the object of his inclination; and his passion for it could not avoid being strengthened by the situation of the town in which he was placed, and the manner of life of the persons with whom he must frequently converse. Some disagreement having happened between him and his master, he obtained his discharge, and soon after bound himself for seven years to Messrs. John and Henry Walker, of Whitby, Quakers by religious profession, and princ: ^^al owners of the ship Freelove, and of another vessel, both of which were constantly employed in the coal trade. The greatest part •f his apprenticeship was spent on board the Freelove. After he was out of his time, he continued to serve in the coal and other branches of trade (though chiefly in the former) in the capacity of a common sailor; till, at length, he was raised to be mate of one of Mr. John Walker's ships . In the spring of the year 1755, when hostilities broke out between England and France, and there was a hot press for seamen, Mr. Cook happened to be in the river Thames with the ship to which he belonged. At first he concealed himself to avoid being pressed ; but reflecting that it migh* be dilficult, notwithstanding all his vigilance, to elude diS; covery or escape pursuit, he determined, upon further con- sideration, to enter voluntarily into his majesty's service, and to take his future fortune in the royal navy. Perhaps he had some presage in his own mind, that by his activity and exertions he might rise considerably above his present situation. Accordingly he went to a rendezvous at Wu^^ \f V ^>-r PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOYAOB. ^ XI 1 family; ■ put to a « writing, U [>und ar. fl sher, or m a, about lowever, '* The sea )n for it ^ n of the ' fe of the ). Some s master. mself for 1 Whitby, 1 9r8 of the ich were test part i'reelove. '' i^e in the y in the t length, r's ships roke out ot press Thames oncealed it migh* ude dis ler con- service, ** Perhaps activity present it Wap- ping, and entered with an officer of the Eagle man-of-war, a sliip of sixty guns, at that time commanded by Captain Ilamer. To this ship Captain (afterwards Sir Hugh) Palliser was appointed, in the month of October, 1755; and when he took the command, found in her James Cook, whom he soon distinguished to be an able, active, and diligent seaman. All the officers spoke highly in his favour, and the captain was so well pleased with his behaviour, that he gave him every encouragement which l&y in his power. In the course of some time, Captain Palliser received a letter from Mr. Osbaldeston, then member of Parliament for Scarborough, acquainting him that several neighbours of his had solicited him to write in favour of one Cook, on board the captain's ship. They had heard that Captain Palliser had taken notice of him, and they requested, if he thought Cook deserving of it, that he would point out in what man- ner Mr. Osbaldeston might best contribute his assistance towards forwarding the young man's promotion. 7' a cap- tain, in his reply, did Justice to Cook's merit; but, as he had been only a short time in the navy, informea Mr. Osbaldes- ton that he could not be promoted as a commission officer. A master's warrant, Captain Palliser added, might perhaps be procured for Mr. Cook, by which he would be raised to ■ station that he was well qualified to discliarge with ability and credit. Such a warrant he obtained on the 10th of May, 1759, fof the Grampus sloop; but the proper master having unez« pectedly returned to her, the appointment did not take place. Four days after he was made master of the Garland; when, upon inquiry, it was found that he could not join her, as the ship had already sailed. On the next day, the 15th of May, he was appointed to the Mercury. These quick and successive appointments shew that his interest was strong, and that the intention to serve him was real and effectual. The destination of the Mercury was to North America, where she {oined the fleet under the command of Sir Charles J&U ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK. Saunders, which, in conjunction with the land forces under General Wolfe»wa8 engaged in the famous siege of Quebec* During that siege, a difficult and dangerous service was ne- cessary to be performed. This was to take the soundings in the channel of the river St. Lawrence, between the island of Orleans and the north shore, directly in the front of the French fortified camp at Montmorency and Beauport, in order to enable the admiral to place ships against the ene- my's batteries, and to cover our army on a general atf.A«*i:, which the heroic Wolfe intended to make on tlie camp. Captain Palliser, in consequence of his acquaintance with Mr. Cook's sagacity and resolution, recommended him to the service; and he performed it in a most complete manner. In this business he was employed during the night-time, for several nights together. At length he was discovered by the enemy, who collected a great number of Indians and canoes, in a wood, near the waterside, which were launched in the night, for the purpose of surrounding him, and cutting him oft. On this occasion, he had a very narrow escape. He was obliged to run for it, and [Pushed on shore on the island of Orleans, near the guard of the English hospital. Some of the Indians entered at the stem of the boat, as Mr. Cook leaped out at the bow; and the boat, which was a barge belonging to one of the ships of war, was carried away iu triumph. However, he fiamished the admiral with as cor- rect and complete a draught of the channel and soundings as could have been made after our countrymen wer'' in possession of Quebec. Sir Hugh Palliser had good reason to believe, that before this time Mr. Cook had scarcely ever Ufed a pencil, and that he knew nothing of drawing. But such was Ids capacity, that he speedily made himself master of every object to which he applied his attention. Another important service was performed by Mr. Cook while the fleet continued in the river St. Lawrence. The navigation of that river is exceedingly difficult and hazard- out* It was particularly so to the English, who were then ^%\ PFRVIOUS TO HIS FIRST TOY AGE. xiii in a great measure strangers to this part of North America, and who had no chart, on the correctness of which they could depend. It was therefore ordered by the admifal, that Mr. Ck>oli should be employed to survey those parts of the river, below Quebec, which navigators had experienced to be at* tended with peculiar difficulty and danger; an^ he executed the business with the same diligence and skill of which he hod already afforded so happy a specimen. When he had finished the undertaking, his chart of the river St. Lawrence was published, with soundings, and directions for sailing in that river. Of the accuracy and utility of this chart, it is suHlcient to say, that it hath never since been found neces- sary to publish any other. One which has appeared in France, is only a copy of our author's, on a reduced scale. After the expedition at Quebec, Mr. Cook, by warrant from Lord Ck>lville, was appointed, on the 22d of September, 1759, master of the Northumberland man-of-war, the ship in which his lordship staid, in the following winter, as commodore, with the command of a squadron at Halifax. In this station, Mr. Cook's behaviour did not fail to gain him the esteem end friendship of his commander. During the leisure, which the season of winter afforded him, he employed his time in the acquisition of such knowledge as eminently qualified him for future serx'ice. It was at Halifax that he first read Euclid, and applied himself to the study of astronomy and other branches of science. While Mr. Cook was master of the Northumberland under Lord Colville, tiiat ship came to Newfoundland in September, 1762, to assist in the recapture of that island from the French, by the forces under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Amherst. When the island was recovered, the English fleet tluuu some days at Placentia, in order to put it in a more complete state of defence. During this time Mr. Cook mani- fested a diligence in surveying the harbour and heights of the place, which arrested the notice of Captain (now Admiral) Graves, commander of the Antelope, and governor of New- XIT ACCOUNT OP CAPTAIN C00&, 7. i foundland. The governor was hence induced to ask Cook a variety of questions, from the answers to which he was led to entertain a very favourable opinion of his abilities. This opinion was increased the more he saw of Mr. Cook's conduct ^ who, wherever they went, continued to display the most unremitting attention to every object that related to the knowledge of the coast, and was calculated to facilitate the practice of navigation. In the latter end of 1763, Mr. Cook returned to England ; and, on the 21st of December in the same year, married, at Barking, in Essex, Miss Elizabeth Batts, an amiable and de- serving woman, who was Justly entitled to and ei^oyed his tenderest regard and affection. But his station in Ufe» and the high duties to which he was called, did not permit him to partake of matrimonial felicity, without many and very long interruptions. Early in the year 176S, after the peace with France and Spain was concluded, it was determined that Captain Graves should go out again, as Governor of Newfoundland. As the country was very valuable in a commercial view, and had been an object of great contention between the English and French, the captain obtained an establishment for the survey of its coasts. In considering the execution of the plan, Mr. Cook appeared to Captain Graves to be a proper person for the purpose; and proposals were made to him to whicis, notwithstanding his recent marriage, he readily and pru* dently acceded. Accordingly he went out with the Captain as surveyor; and was first employed to survey Miquelon and St. Pierre, which had been ceded by the treaty to the French, who, by order of the administration, were to take possession of them at a certain period, even though the English corn- monder should not happen to be arrived in the country. When Captain Graves had reached that part of the world, he found there the governor who had been sent from France (Mens. D'Anjac), with all the settlers and his own family, oil board a frigate, and some transports. It was contrived. f PREVIOUS TO HIS FIRST VOTAOB. XV however, to keep them In that disagreeable situation for a ttrhole month, which was the time taJcen by Mr. Coolc to complete his survey. When the business was finished, tite French were put into possession of the two islands, and left in the quies enjoyment of them, with every profession of civility. At the end of the season, Mr. Cook returned to England, but did not long continue at home. In the beginning of the year 1764, his old and constant friend and patron, Sir Hugh Palliser, was appointed governor and commodore of Newfoundland and Labrador ; upon which occasion he was glad to take Mr. Cook with him, in the same capacity that he had sustained under Captain Graves. Indeed, no man could have been found who was better qualified for finishing the design which had been begun in the preceding yeur. The charts of the coasts in that part of North America, were very erroneous; and it was highly necessary to tlie tf ade and navigation of his Majesty's subjects, that new ones should be formed, which would be more correct and useful. Accordingly, under the orders of Commodore Palliser, Mr. Cook was appointed on the 18th of April, 1764, marine sur- veyor of Newfoundland and Labrador ; and he had a vessel, the Orenville schooner, to attend him for that purpose. The charts which he afterwards published of the diiTerent burveys he had made, reflected great credit on his abilities and character, and tlie utility of them is universally ac- knowledged. It is understood, that so far as Newfoundland is concerned, they were of considerable service to the king's ministers, in settling the terms of the last peace. Mr. Cook explored the inland parts of the island in a much completer manner than had ever been done before. By penetrating further into the middle of the country than any man had hitherto attempted, he discovered large lakes, which are indicated upon the general chart. In these services Mr. Cook appears to have been employed, with the intervals of occasionally returning to England for the winter season, till xvi ACCOUNT OP CAPTAIN COOK. th<* ycnr 17G7, which wan the last time that ho wont out upon his station of marine surveyor of Newfoundland. It must not be omitted, that, while he occupied this post, be had an opportunity of exhibiting to the Royal Society a proof of hit progress in the study of astronomy. A short paper was written by him, and inserted in the flfty-soventh volume of the Philosophical Transactions, entitled **Ad Observation of an Eclipse of the Sun, at the Island of New- foundland, August ff, 1706» with the Longitude of the placse of Observation deduced from It." The obsen'atlon was made at one of the Burgeo Islands, near Capo Day, In latl- tnde 47 deg. 86 min. 10 sec. on the south-west extremity of Newfoundland. Mr. Cook's paper having been communi- cated by Dr. Bevis to Mr. Witchell, the latter gentleman compared it with an observation at Oxford, by the Rev. Mr, Hornsby, on the same eclipse, and thence computed the diflerence of longitude respecting the places of observation, making due allowance for the effect of parallax, and tlii' prolate spheroidical figUire of the earth. It appears from the Transactions that our navigator had already obtained the character of twing an able mathematician. / .1 ■-,1 » i! wont out land. If I poit, he Society a A short ty-Mventh [tied «*Aii d of New- ' the place Ution VTBM \y, in lati- tremity of communi- gentleman B Rev. Mr, puted the bserration. If and thf ears from ly obtaiutid t -r^ • '. . • . ) NARRATIVE &w CxiPTAIN COOK'S VOYAGES ■ ROUND THE WORLD ^^„^S^>^k^^*^^^^^t^i^**m0^0^S^>,^'i^>>^>^'f^y^^^ CHAPTER I. Narrative of Captain Cook's First Voyage round the World, i There is scarcely any thing from which the natural curiosity of man receives a'higher gratification than from the accounts of distant countries and nations. Nor is it curiosity only that is gratified by 8uc)i ac- counts ; for the sphere of human knowledge is thereby ♦ nlarged, and various objects are brought into view, un acquaintance with which greatly contributes to tlie improvement of life, and the benefit of the world. With regard to hiformation of this kind, the moderns have eminently the advantage over the ancients, Tiie ancients could neither pursue their inquiries with tiie same accuracy, nor curry them on to the same extent. Travelling by laud *wa^ much more incon 20 B II CAPTAIN COOK'S vciiient and dangerous than it natli heen m latrr times; and as navigation was principally contined to coasting, it must necessarily have been circumscribed witiiin very narrow limits. Tlie invention of the compass, seconded by the ardent and enterprising spirit of several able men, was followed by wonderful discoveries. Vasco di Gama doubled the Cape of Good Hope ; and a new way being tlius found out to the hast Indies, the countries in that part of the earth became more ac- curately and extensively known. Another world was discovered by Columbus ; and at length Magal- hchis accomplished the arduous and hitherto nnat- tempted task of sailing round the globe. The spirit of discovery which was so vigorous during the latter end of the fifteenth and through the wiiole of the sixteentli century, befran soon after the coninieucement of thcHeventeenth century, to decline. Great navigations were only occasionully undertaken, and from the more immediate views of avarice or war, than from any noble and generous principles. But of late vears they have been revived, with the enlarged and benevolent design of promoting the liappmess of the human species. A beginning of this kind was made in the reign of George the Second, during which two voyages were performed; the first under tiie command of Captain Middleton, and the next under the direction of Cup- tains Smith and Moore, in order to discover a north- west passage through Hudson's Bay. It was reserved, however, for the glory of the present reign to carry the spirit of discovery to its height, and to conduct it on the noblest principles — not for the purposes of covetousness or ambition, — nor to plunder or dest rov the inhabitants of newly-explored countries, hut to improve tiieir condition, co instruct them in tlie arts of life, and to extend the boundaries of science. No sooner was peac" restored in 17G3, than these (^udablc desiifus engaged his majesty's paLronage, Flli»T VOYAOB. H and two voyacres round the world had been under- taken before Mr. Cook set out on his first command. Tiie conductors of these voyages were the Captains Byron, Wallis, and Curteret, by whom several dis- coveries were made, which contributed, in no small degree, to increase the knowledge of geography and navigation. Nevertheless, as the purpose for which they were sent out appears to have had a principal reference to a particular object in the South AtiantiC| the direct tract they were obliged to hold, on their way homeward by the Ea&t Indies, prevented them from doing so much as might otherwise have been expected towards giving tlie world a complete yiew of that immense expanse of ocean which the South Pacific comprehends. Before Captain Wallis and Captain Carteret had returned to Great Britain, another voyage was re- solved upon, for which tlie improvement of astrono- mical science afforded the immediate occasion. It liaving been calculated by astronomers that a transit of Venus over the sun's disc would happen in 1769, it was judged that the best place for observing it would be in some part of the South Sea, either at the Marquesas, or at one of those islands which Tasman had called Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburg, and which are now better known under the name of the Friendly Islands. This being a matter of eminent consequence in astronomy, and which excited the attention of foreign nations as well as of our own, the affair was taken up by the Royal Society, with the zeal which has always been dis- played by that learned body for the advancement of every branch of philosophical science. Accordingly a long memorial was addressed to his majesty, dated the loth of February, 1768, representing the great importance of the object, together with the regard which had been paid to it by the principal courts of Europe ; and entreating, among other things, that a vessel might be ordered, at the expense of govern- I 4 CAl'TAIN COOK 8 ment, for the conveyance of suitable persons to make the observation of the transit of Venus at one of the f)iaces before mentioned. Tliis memorial having^ been Hid before the King by the Earl of Shelbume, (now tlie Marquis of Lansdown, ) one of the principal secretaries of state, his majesty graciously signified his pleasure to the lords commissioners of the Admi- ralty that they should provide a ship for carryint; over such observers as the Royal Society should judge proper to send to the South Seas ; and, on the 3rd of April, Mr. Stephens informed the society, that a bark had been taken up for the purpose. He knew, he said, a Mr. Cook, who had been em- ployed as marine surveyor of Newfoundland, who had been regularly educated in the navv, in which he was a master, and whom he judged to be fully quali- fied for the direction of the present undertaking. Mr. Stephens, at the same time, recommended it to the board to take the opinion of Sir H ugh Palliser, who had lately been governor of Newfoundland, and was intimately ac(|uainted with Cook's character. Sir Hugh rejoiced m the opportunity of serving his friend. He strengthened Mr. Stepliens' recommenda- tion to the utmost of his power ; and added many tilings in Mr. Cook's favour, arising from the parti- cular knowledge which he had of his abilities and merit. Accordingly Mr. Cook was appointed to the command of the expedition by the lords of the Admi- ralty ; and on this occasion he wus promoted to the rank of a lieutenant in the royal navy, his commission bearing date the 25th of May, 1768. When the appointment had taken place, the first object was to provide a vessel adapted to the purposes of the voyage. This business was committed to Sir Hugh Palliser, who took Lieutenant Cook to his assistance, and they examined together a great num- her of the ships which then lay in the river Thames. At length they fixed upon one of 370 tons, to whieb was given the name of the Endeavour. i^H PIR8T VOYAOK. )mmi8sion When preparations were making for Lieutenant Cook's expedition, Captain VVallis returned from iiis voyage round the world. The Ear] of Morton, pre- sident of the Royal Society, had recommended to this gentleman, on his going out, to fix upon a proper place for observing the transit of Venus. He kept accordingly to the object in view ; and having disco- vered, in the course of his enterprise, an island called by him George's Island, but wuich hath since been found to bear the name of Otaheite he judgred that Port Royal harbour, in this island, would afford an eligible situation for the purpose. Having, imme- diately on his return to England, signified his opinion to the Barl of Morton, the Captain's idea was adopted by the society, and an answer conformable to it was sent to the commissioners of the Admiralty, who had applied for directions to what place the observers should be sent. Mr. Charles Green, a gentleman who had long been assistant to Dr. Braaley, at the royal observa- tory at Greenwich, was united with Lieutenant Cook in conducting the astronomical part ot the voyage * and, soon after their appointment, they received ample instructions from the council of the Royal Society, with regard to the method of carrying on their inquiries. The lieutenant was also Hccompaniud by Joseph Banks, Esq. (now Sir Joseph Banks, Baronet,) and Dr. Solander. Thougn it was the principal, it was not the cole object of Lieutenant Cook's voyage to observe the transit of Venus. A more accurate examination of the Pacific Ocean was committed to him, although in subserviency to his main design; and, when his chief business was accomplished, he was directed to proceed in making further discoveries in tho great Southern Seas. The complement of Lieutenant Cook's ship con- sisted of eighty-four persons, besides the commander. Her victualling was for eighteen months; and there 6 CAPTAIN COOK'S were put on board of her, ten carriape and ten swivel (runs, together with an ample store of aminuiiition tnd other necessaries. On the 26th of May, 1768, Lieutenant Cook was appointed by the Lords of tlie Admiralty, to the com- mand of the Endeavour, in consequence of wliich tie went on board on the 27th, and took charge of tl«e ship. She then lay in the basin in Dept ford-yard, where she continued to lie till she was completely fitted for sea. On the SOth of July she sailed down the river, and on the 13th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound. Tlie wind becoming fair on the 2dth of that month, our navigators got under sail, aad on the Idth of September anchored in Funchiale Road, in the Island of Madeira. While Lieutenant Cook and his company were in this island, they were treated with the utmost kind- ness and liberality by Mr. Cheap, the English Consul there, and one of the most considerable merchants in the town of Funchiale. He insisted upon their taking possession of his house, and furnished them with every possible accommodation duiing their stay at Madeira. They received likewise great marks of attention and civility from Dr. Thomas Heberden, the principal physician of the island, and brother to the excellent and learned Dr. William Heberden, of London. Dr. Thomas Heberden afforded all the assistance in his power to Mr. Banks and Dr. Solan- der, m their botanical inquiries. It was not solely from the English that the lieutenant and his friends experienced a kind recep- tion. The fathers of the Franciscan convent dis- played a liberality of sentiment towards them which might not have been expected from Portuguese friars , and in a visit which they paid to a convent of nuns, the ladies expressed a particular pleasure in seeing them. At this visit the gooa nuns ^ave an amusing proof of the progress they had made m the cultivation of their understanding. Having heard that tiiere FIRST VOYAUK. iT'cre {xreat philosophers among the £n the utmost extremity of daiij^^er and of cold. Dr. Solandcr was seized with a torpor which had nearly proved fatal to his lii'e, and two black servants ac- tually died. When the gentlemen had at len^^th oa the second day of their adventure, got back to the sliip, they congratulated each other on their safety with a joy that can only be felt by those who have experienced equal perils, and Mr. Cook was relieved from a very painful anxiety. It was a dreadful tes- timony of the severity of the climate that this event took place when it was the midst of summer in that part of the world, and at the close of a day, the be- ginning of which was as mild and warm as the month of May usually is in England. In the passage through the Strait of Le Maire, Lieutenant Cook and his ingenious associates had an- opportunity of gaining a considerable degree of ac- quaintance with the inhabitants of the adjoining country. Here it was that they saw human nature in its lowest form. The .latives appeared to be the most destitute and forlorn, as well as the most stupid, of the children of men. Their lives are spent in wan- dering about the dreary waters that surround them ; and their dwellings are no other than wretched hovels of sticks and grass, which not only admit the wind, but the snow and tlie rain. They are almost naked : and so devoid are they of every convenience which is furnished by the rudest art, that they have not so much as an implement to dress their food. Never- tiieless they seemed to have no wish for acquiring more than they possessed ; nor did any thing that was offered them by the English appear acceptable but beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. A conclusion is hence drawn by Dr. Hawksvvorth, that these people may be upon a level with ourselves in respect to the happiness they enjoy. This, however is a position which ought not hastily to be admitted. Lt is indeed a beautiful circumstance in the order of Divine Providence, that the rudest inhabitants of It PTRST VOYAGE. 11 the earth, and those who arc situated in tlie most un- favourahle climates, sliould not be sensible of their disadvantages : but still it must be allowed that their happiness is greatlv inferior, both in kind and degree, to that intellectual, social, and moral felicity which is capable of being attained in a highly-cultivated state of society. In voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, the deter- mination of the best passage from the Atlantic is a point of peculiar importance. It is well known what prodigious difhculties were experienced in this respect by former navigators. The doubling of Cape Horn, in jiarticular, was so much dreaded, that, in the general opinion, it was far more eligible to pas8 through the Straits of Magelhaens. Lieut. Cook hath tuUy ascertained the erroneousness of this opinion. He was but three and thirty days in coming round the lani of Terra del Fuego, from the east entrance of tlic Strait of Le Maire, till he had advanced about twelve degrees to the westward, and three and a half to the northward of the Strait of Magellan ; and during this time the ship scarcely received any damage. Whereas, if he had come into the Pacific Ocean by that passage, he would not have been able to accomplish it in less than three months ; besides which, his people would have been fatigued, and the anchors, cables, sails, and rigging of the vessel much injured. By the course he pursued, none of these inconveniences were suffered. In short, Lieut. Cook, by his own example in doubling Cape Horn, by his accurate ascertainment of the latitude and longitude of the places he came to, and by his instructions to future voyagers, performed the most essential ser 7lces to this part of navigation. It was on the 26th of January that the Endeavoui took her departure from Cape Horn ; and it ap- peared that, from that time to the 1st of March, during a run of six hundred and sixty leagues, there was no current which effected the 8hi*>. Hence it CAPTAIN COOK'S > 'II i,i ; was highly probable that our navigators had been near no land of any considerable extent, currents being always found when land is not remote. ^• In the prosecution of Lieut. Cook*s voyage from Cape Horn to Otaheite, several islands were dis- covered, to which the names were given of Lagoon Island, Thrump-cap, Bow Island, The Groups, Bird Island^ and Chain Island. It appeared that most of these islands were inhabited ; and the verdure, and groves of palm-trees which were visible upon some of them, gave them the aspect of a terrestrial para- dise to men, who, excepting the dreary hills of Terra del Fuego, had seen nothing for a long time but sky and water. On the 11th of April, the Endeavour arrived in sight of Otaheite, and on the 13th she came to an anchor in Port Royal Bay, which is called Matavia by the natives. As the stay of the English in the island was not likely to be very short, and much de- pended on the manner in which traffic should be car- ried on with the inhabitants, Lieut. Cook, with great good sense and humanity, drew up a set of regula- tions for the behaviour of his people, and gave it in command that they should be punctually observed. The rules were as follow : — " 1. To endeavour, by every fair means, to cultivate a friendship with the natives, and to treat them witli all imaginable hu- manity. 2. A proper person or persons will be ap- pointed to trade with the natives for all manner of provisions, fruit, and other productions of the earth ; and no officer or seaman, or other pe/son belonging to the ship, excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade, or offer to trade, for any sort of provisions, fruit, or other productions of the earth, unless they have leave so to do. 3. Every person employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly to attend to the same : and if by any neglect he loseth any of his arms, or working tools, or suffers tliem to be stolen, the full vUiUe thereof will be charged against FIKST VOYAGE. m his pay, according to the custom of the navy in such cases; and he shall receive such further punishment as tlie nature of tlie oiFence may deserve. 4. The same penalty will he inflicted on every person who is found to embezzle, trade, or offer to trade, with any part of the ship's stores, of what nature soever. 5. No sort of iron, or any thing that is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful or necessary ar- ticles', are to be given in exchange for any thing but provisions. — J. Cook." One of the first things that occupied the lieuten- ant's attention, after his arrival at Otaheite, was to prepare for the execution of his grand commission. For this purpose, as in an excursion to the westward, {he had not found any more convenient harbour than I that in which the Endeavour lay, he determhied to go on shore and fix upon some spot, commanded by [the guns of the ship, where he might throw up a small fort for defence, and get every thinj? ready for making the astronomical observation. Accordingly he took a party of men, and landed, being accompa- jnied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solandcr, and Mr. Green. [They soon fixed upon a place very proper for their [design, and which was at a considerable distance from any habitation of the natives. While the gen- tlemen were marking out the ground which they in- tended to occupy, and seeing a small tent erected that belonged to Mr. Banks, a great number of the people of the country gathered gradually txround tiiem, but with no hostile appearance, as there was [not among the Indians u single weapon of any kind. Mr. Cook, however, intimated that none of them were to come within the line he had drawn, except- ing one, who appeared to be a cltief, and Owhaw, a native who ha(^ attached himself to the English, both in Captain Wallis's expedition, and in the present voyage. The lieutenant endeavoured to make these two persons understand that the ground which had been marked out was only wanted to sleep upon foi ! 14 CAPTAIN COOK'S a certain number of nights, and that then it would he quitted. Whether his meaning was comprehended or not, he could not certainly determine ; but the people behaved with a deierence and respect that could scarcely have been expected, and which were hiofhly pleasing. They sat down without the circle, peaceably and uninterruptedly attending to the pro- gress of the business, which was upwards of two hours in completing. This matter being finished, and Mr. Cook having appointed thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, he and the gentlemen with him set out upon a little excursion into the woods of the country. They had not, however, gone far, before they were brought back by a very disagreeable event. One of the Indians who remained about the tent after the lieutenant and his friends had left it, watched the opportunity of taking the sentry at un- awares, and snatched away his musket. Upon this, the petty officer who commanded the party, and who was a midshipman, ordered the marines to fire. With equal want of consideration, and perhaps with eaual inhumanity, the men immediately discharged their pieces among the thickest of the flying crowd, which consisted of more than a hundred. It being ob- served that the chief did not fall, he was pursued and shot dead. From subsequent information it happily appeared that none of the natives besides were either killed or wounded. Lieutenant Cook, who was highly displeased with the conduct of the petty officer, used every method in his power to dispel the terrors and apprehensions of the Indians, but not immediately with effect. The next morning but few of the inhabitants were seen upon the beach, and not one of them came off to the ship. What added particularly to the regret of the English was, that even Owhaw, who had hitherto been so constant in his attachment, and who the day before had been reniarkablv active in endeavouring to riKST VOYAGE. Id len it would [)mpreheniltMJ ne ; but the respect that I which were it the circle, g to the pro- ards of two yook having by officer to vith him set ^oods of the 3 far, before eeable event, )ut the tent had left it, jentry at un- Upon this, rty, and who .ofire. With s with eaual larged their rowd, which beinj^ ob- vsls pursued brmation it Ives besides )leased with ery method >prehen8ions effect. The i were seen te off to the egret of the ad hitherto irho the day lavouring to renew the peace which had been broken, did not now make his appearance. In the evening, however, when the lieutenant went on shore with only a boat's crew and some of the gentlemen, between thirty and forty of the natives gathered around them, and trafficked with them in a friendly manner for cocoa- nuts and other fruit. On the 17th, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green set up a tent on shore, and spent the niglit there, in order to observe an eclipse of the first satellite of Jupiter ; but they met with a disappointment in consequence of the weather becoming cloudy. The next day, the lieutenant, with as many of his people as could possibly be spared from the ship, began to erect the tort. Wiiile the English were employed in this business, many of the Indians were so far from hhi- dering, that they voluntarily assisted them, and with great alacrity brought the pickets and fascines from tlie wood where they had been cut. Indeed, so scru- pulous had Mr. Cook been of invading their property, tiiat every stake which was used was purchased, and not a tree was cut down till their consent had first been obtained. On tlie 26th, the lieutenant mounted six swivel guns upon the fort, on which occasion he saw with concern that the natives were alarmed and terrified. Some fishermen, who lived upon the point, removed to a greater distance : and Owhaw informed the English, by signs, of his expectation that in four days they would fire their great guns. The lieutenant, on the succeeding day. gave a striking proof of his regard to justice, and oi his care to preserve the inhabitants from injury and violence, by the punisimient he inflicted on the butcher of the Enrleavour, who was accused of having threatened or attempted the life of a woman that was the wife of Tubourai Tamaide, a chie^' remarkable for his attachment to our navigators. Ttie butcher vvante cook's ries. At length, by the prudent exertions of Lieut. Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, the friendship of Tootahah was completely recovered, and tlie re- conciliation worked upon the Indians like a ciiarm ; for it was no sooner known that he liad gone volun- tarily on board the Emieavour, than bread-fruit cocoa-nuts, and other provisions, were brought to the fort in great plenty. The Lieutenant smd the rest of the gentlemen had liithcrto, with a laudable discretion, bartered only beads for the articles of food now mentioned. But the market becoming slack, they were obliged for the first time, on the 8th of Ma^, to bring out their nails ; and such was the effect of this new commodity , that one of the smallest size, which was about four inches long, procured twenty cocoa-nuts, and bread fruit in proportion. It was not till the 10th of that month that our voyagers learned that the Indian name of the island was Otaheite, by which naiue it has since been distinguished. On Sunday the 14th, an instance was exhibited of the inattention of the natives to our modes of religion. The lieutenant had directed that divine service should be performed at the fort, and he was desirous that some of the principal Indians should be present. Mr. Banks secured the attendance of Tubourai Ta- maide and his wife Tomio, hoping that it would give occasion to some enquiries on their part, and to some instruction in return. During the whole service they very attentivelv observed Mr. Banks' behaviour, and stood, sat, or knelt, as they saw him do ; and they appeared to be sensible that it was a serious and im])ortant employment in which the English were engaged. But when the worship was ended, neither of tliera asked any questions, nor would they attend to any explanations which were attempted to be given of what had been performed. As the dav approached foi executinqr the grand K1A8T vol AOB. 19 of TJeut. riendship d tlie rv- a cliarm ; ne vohin- pead-fiuit ought to lemen had ered only [led. But )liged for out tlieir immodlty , ,bout four md bread 1 that our the island lince been diibited of of religion, le service 18 desirous )e present. )0urai Ta- cvould give id to some e service behaviour, a do ; and serious and glish were ed, neither hey attend ted to be the grand purpose of the vovage, Lieutenant Cook determined^ in consequence of some hints which he had received from the Earl of Morton to send out two parties to observe the transit of Venus from other situations. By this means he hoped that the success of the ob- servation would be secured, if there should happen to be any failure in Otaheite. Accordingly, on Tliursday, the 1st of June, he dispatched Mr. Gore in Ihe long-boat to Eimeo, a neighbouring island, together with Mr. Monkhouse ana Mr. Sporing, a gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks. They were fur- nished by Mr. Green with proper instruments. Mr. Banks himself chose to go upon this expedition, in which he was accompanied by Tubourai Tamaide, and Tomio, and by others of the natives. Early the next morning the lieutenant sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace with Mr. Clerk, Mr. Pickersgill, and Mr. Saunders, one of the midshipmen, ordering them to fix upon some convenient spot to the eastward, at a distance from the principal observatory, where they also might employ the instruments they were pro- vided with for observing the transit. The anxiety for such weather as would be favour- able to the success of the experiment was powerfully telt by all the parties concerned. They could not sleep in peace the preceding night ; but their appre- hensions were happily removed by the sun's rising, on the morning ol tne Srd of June, without a cloud. Ttie weather continued with equai clearness through the whole of the day ; so that the observation was successfully made in every quarter. At the fort, where Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Green, and Dr. Solander were stationed, the whole passage of the planet Venus over the sun's disc was observed with great advantage. The magnifying power of Dr. Solander 's telescope was superior to that of those which belonged to the lieutenant and to Mr. Green. Thoy all saw an atmosphere or dusky cloud round the body of the planet, which much disturbed the times of the con- I i 80 , /. , CAPTAIN COOK'S ^. tact, and especially of the internal ones . and in their accounts of these times they differed from each other in a greater decree than might have been expected^ According to Mr. Green, ,r ; ■c Morning, h. min. sec. The first external contact, or first appear- ance of Venns on the sun, was 9 25 42 Tiie first internal contact or total immer- sion, was 9 44 4 The second internal contact, or beginning of the immersion, was 3 14 8 The second external contact, or total im- mersion, was 3 32 10 The latitude of the observatory was found to be 17 deg. 29 min. 15 sec, and the longitude 149 deg. 32 min. 30 sec. west of Greenwich. A more particular a-^count of l;his great astrono- mical event, the providing for the accurate observa- tion of which refiects so much honour on his majesty's munificent patronage of science, may be seen in the sixty-first volume of the Philosophical Transactions. The pleasure which Lieutenant Cook and his friends derived from having thus successfully accom- plished the first grand object of the voyage, was not a little abated by the conduct of some of the ship's company, who while the attention of the oflScers was engrossed by the transit of Venus, broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole a quantity of spike-nails, amounting to no less than a hundred weight. This was an evil of a public and serious nature ; for these nails, if injudiciously circulated among the Indians, would be productive of irreparable injury to the English, by reducing the value of iron, their staple commodity. One of the thieves, from whom only seven nails were recovered, was detected ; but though lue punishment of two dozen lashes waa inflicted PIllST VOYACiJJ. 21 i in their ich other xpected* Morning, min. seCt 25 42 44 4 1 14 8 i 32 10 to be 17 I deg. 32 astrono- observa- majesty's !en in the isaotions. and his y accom- , was not he ship's cers WH« to one of ike-nails, It. This for these Indians, •y to the dr staple lom only it though inflicted up6n him, he vvoulil nut impeach any of his accom- pi ices. Upon account of the absence of the two parties who had been sent out to observe the transit, the king's birth-day was celebrated on the 5th, instead of the 4th of June : and the festivity of the day must have been greatly heightened by the happy success with v;hich his majesty's liberality had beencrownet* On the I2th, Lieutenant Cook was again reduced to the necessity of exercising the severity of dL^ci- pline. Complaint having been made to him, by cer- tain of the natives, that two of the seamen had taken from them several bows and arrows, and some strings of plaited hair ; and the charge being fully supported, he punished each of the criminals with two dozen lashes. On the same day it was discovered that Otaheite, like other countries in a certain period of society, has its bards, and its minstrels. Mr. Banks, in his niorn- higs's walk, had met with a number of the natives, who appeared, upon inquiry, to be travelling musi- cians ; and having learned -vhere they were to be at night, all the gentlemen of the Endeavour repaired to the place. Tiie band consisted of two flutes and three drums, and the drummers accompanied the music with their voices. To the surprise of the English gentlemen, they found that themselves were generally the subject of the song, which was unpre- meditated. These minstrels were conti.iually going about from place to place ; and they were rewarded, by the master of the house and the audience, with such things as they wanted. The repeated thefts which were committed by the inhabitants of Otaheite brought our voyagers into frequent difficulties, and it required all the wisdom of Lieutenant Cook to conduct himself in a proper man- ner. His sentiments on the scibject displayed the liberality of his mind. He thought it of consequence to put an end. if possible, to thievish practices at 1 :l 22 CAPTAIN C00K*8 once, b^ doing something that should engage tlie natives m general to prevent them, from a regard to their common interest. Strict orders had been given by him that they should not be fired upon, even when they were detected in attempting to steal any of t^ie English property. For this the lieutenant had many reasons. The common sentinels were in no degree fit to be entrusted with the power of life and death, neither did Mr. Cook think that the thefts committed by the Otaheitans deserved so severe a punishment. They were not bom under the law of England ; nor was it one of the conditions under which they claimed the benefits of civil society, that their lives should be forfeited unless they abstained from theft. As the lieutenant was not willing that the natives should be exposed to fire-arms loaded with shot, neither did he approve of firing only with powder, which, if re- peatedly found to be harmless, would at length be despisea. At a time when a considerable robbevy had been committed, an accident furnished him with what he hoped would be a happy expedient for pre- venting future attempts of the same kind. Above twenty of the sailing canoes of the inhabitants came in with a supply of fish. Upon these Lieutenant Cook immediately seized, and having brought them into the river behind the fort, gave notice, that unless the things which had been stolen were returned, the canoes should be burnt. This menace, without de- signing to put it into execution, he ventured to pub- lish, from a full conviction, that as restitution was thus made a common cause, the stolen goods would all of them be speedily brought back. In this however he was mistaken. An iron coal-rake indeed was returned, upon which great solicitation was made tor the release of the canoes ; but he still in- sisted on his original condition. When the next day came he was much surprised to find that nothing fur- ther had been returned ; and as the people were in the utmost distress for the fish, which would in a age the 3prard to jn given en when y of t^ie id many i degree i death, nmitted shment. id ; nor claimed 1 should As the lould he ;her did I, if re- igth he robbery m with for pre- Above ts came utenant it them t unless led, the [>ut de- to pub- on was goods In this indeed >n was till in- !xt day ng fur- ^ere in d in a FlKdX V0iAO£. 2:) ( 4 ihort time be bpoiled, he was reduced to the disagree- able alternative, eitiier of releasing the caiiuub, con- trary to what he had solemnly and publicly declared, or 01 detaining them, to the great damage of those who were innocent. As a temporary expedient he permitted the natives to take the fish, but still de- tained the canoes. So far was this measure from bein^ attended with advantage, that it was produc- tive of new confusion and injury : for as it was not easy at once to distinguish to what particular persons tlie several lots of tish belonged, the canoes were plundered by those who had no right to any part of tiieir cargo. At lengtli, most pressing instances being still made for the restoration of tiie canoes, and Lieutenant Cook having reason to believe, either that tlie things for wliich he detained them were not in the island, or that tliose who suii'ered by their detention were absolutely incapable of prevailing upon the thieves to relinquish their booty, he determined^ though not immediately, to comply with the solicita- tions of the natives. Our commander was, however, Qot a little mortified at the ill success of his project. About the same time, another accident occurred, which, notwithstanding all the caution of our prin- cipal voyagers, was very near embroiling them with the Indiantr, The lieutenant havhig sent a boat on siiore to get *)dllast for the ship, the officer, not im- mediately finding stones suitable to the purpose, began to pull down some part of an enclosure in which the inhabitants Inid deposited the bones of their dead. This action a number of the natives violently opposed : and a messenger came down from iie tents to acquaint the gentlemen that no such V ing would be sultered. Mr. Banks directly repaired 10 the place, and soon put an amicable end to the contest, by sending a boat's crew to the river, wliere 'A sufficient quantity of stones might be gathered without a possibility of giving oiicnce. Tnese In- dians appeared to be much more alarmetl at any u CAPTAIN COOK'S injury which they appreliended to be done to the dead tlian to the livin^^. This was the only measure in which they ventured to oppose the English, and the only insult that was ever oiibred to any individual belonging to the Endeavour was upon a similar occa- sion. It should undoubtedly be the concern of ull voyagers to abstain from wantonly offending the re- ligious prejudices of the people among whom they come. • To extend the knowledge of navigation and the sphere of discovery, objects which we need not say tliat Lieutenant Cook kept always steadily in view, he set out in the pinnace, on the 26th of June, ac> tompanied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the island ; during which the lieutenant and his compa- nions were thrown into great alarm by the appre- Itended losh of the boat. By this expedition Mr. Cook obtaiuci acquaintance with the several dis- tricts of Otaheii the chiefs who presided over them, and a variety of curious circumstances respecting the manners and customs of the inhabitants. On the 1st of July he got ba^^k to the fort of Matavia, having found the circuit oj the island, including the two peninsulas of which it consisted, to be about thirty leagues. The circumnavigation of Otaheite was followed by an expedition of Mr. Banks to trace the river up the valley from which it issues, and examine how far its banks were inhabited. During this excursion he discerned many traces of subterraneous iire. The Btoncs, like those of Madeira, displayed evident tokens of having been burnt ; and the very clay upon the hills had the same appearance. i? Another valuable employment of Mr. Banks was the planting of a great quantity of the seeds ot water-melons, oranges, lemons, limes, and other plants and trees, which he had collected at Hio de Janeiro. For these he prepared ground on each side of tiie fort| and selected Bd many varieties of soil as t I ft to the neasurc sh, und lividuul ir occa- 11 of ull the re- in they ind the not say n view, ne, ac« t of the compa- appre- on Mr. ral dis- r the in ^ )ectii)g . Oil atavia, ng the about ved by up the jw far ion he The videut upon s was ids ot other io de h side ml u3 Of, J P FIRST VOYAGE. could be found. He also gave liberally of these seeds to the natives, and planted many of them in the woods. Lieutenant Cook now began to prepare for his de- parture. On the 7th of July, the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates and palisadoespf tiie iortification, and it was continued to be dismantled duriii- the two following days. Our commander and the rest of the gentlemen were in hopes that they should quit Otaheite without giving or receiving any furtiier offence ; but in this respect they were unfor- tunately disappointed. The lieutenant had prudently overlooked a dispute of a smaller nature between a couple of foreign seamen and som i of the Indians, when he was immediately involved in a quarrel which he greatly regretted, and which yet it was totally out of his power to avoid. In the middle of the night, between the 8th and 9th, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibbon, two of the marines, went privately from the fort. As they were not to be found in the morning, Mr. Cook was apprehensive that they in- tended to stay behind; but beins unwilling to en- danger the harmony and good-will which at present subsisted between our people and the natives, he determined to wait a day for the chance of the men's return. As, to the great concern of the lieutenant, the marines were not come back on the morning or the 10th, iuquiry was made after them of the Indians, who acknowledged that each of them had taken a wife, and had resolved to become inhabitants of the country. After some deliberation, two of the natives undertook to conduct such persons to the place ot the deserters' retreat as Mr. Cook should think pro- per to send, and accordingly he dispatched with the guides a petty officer and the corporal of marines. As it was of the utmost importance to recover the men, and to do it speedily, it was intimated to several of the chiefs who were in the fort with tho women among whom were Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and r I ■ ! m CAI'TAIN COOKS 'u V* Oberea, that they would not be permitted to leave It till the fup^itives were returned ; and the lieutenant had the pleasure of observinjjf that they received the intimation with very little indications of alarni) and with assurances that his people should be secured and seut back as soon as possible. While this transaction took place at the iort, our commander sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the ship. Mr. Cook had reason to expect, if the Indian guides proved faithful, that the deserters, and those who went in search of them, w/ould return before the evening. Bein^ disapjpointed, his suspicions in- creased, and thinking it not safe, when the night approached, to let the persons whom he had detained as hostages continue at the fort, he ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea, and some otliers, to be taken on board the Endeavour — a circumstance which excited so general an alarm, that several of them, and espe- cially the women, expressed their apprehensions with groat emotion and many tears. Webb, about nine o'clock, was brought back by some of the natives, vvlio declared that Gibson, and the petty officer and the corporal, would not be restored till Tootahah should be set at liberty. Lieutenant Cook now found that the tables were turned upon him ; but having proceeded too far to retreat, he immediately dispatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong party of men, to rescue the prisoners. Tootahah was at the same time informed that it behoved him to send some of his people with them, for the purpose of affording them effectual assistance. With this in- junction he readily complied, and the prisoners were restored without the least opposition. On the next lay they were brought back to the ship, upon which the chiefs were released from their confinement. Thus ended an affair which had given the lieutenant a great deal of trouble and concern. It appears, how«ver, that the measure which he pursued was the result of an absolute necessity, since it was CAJ»TAIN COOK'S danpfer of strikingr on the rock. The mnster, who by his order had kept contiuuully sounding in the chains, suddenly called out " two fathom.' Tliough our commander knew tliat the ship drew at least fourteen feet, and consequently that tlie shoal could not pos- sibly be under her keel, he was nevertheless justly alarmed. Happily th(.' master was either mistaken, or the Endeavour went alonj? the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in tiie neighbourhood of these islands, are as steep as a wall. After a tedious navigation of some days, during which several small islands were seen, and the long boat landed at Otaha, Lieutenant Cook returned to rjlietea, but to a different part of it from that which lie had visited before. In a harbour belonging to the west side of the island, he came to an anchor on the 1st of August. Tiiis measure was necessary, in order to stop a leak which the ship had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in more ballast, as she was found too light tc carry sail upon a wind. The place where the Endeavour was secured, was conveniently situated for the lieutenant's purpose of obtaining ballast and water. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the gentlemen who went on shore this day, spent their time much t their satisfaction. The reception they met was re spectful in the highest degree, and the behaviour of the Indians to the English indicated a fear of them mixed with nontidence that they had no propensity to commit any kind of injury. In an intercourse which the lieutenant and his friends carried on for several days with the inhabitants of this part of the island, it appeared that the terrors which Tupia had expressed ot* the Bolabola conquerors, were wholly groundless. Even Opoony, the formidable king of Bolabola, treated our navigators with respect. Being at Ulietea on the 5th of August, he sent Mr. Cook a present of three hogs, some fowls, and several pieces of cloth of uncommon length, together with a consi- ii^ VIRST \UYAOB aa ►r, who by the chains, lou^h our (t fourteen d not pos- less justly mistaken, ;oral rock, ise islands, T9, durinpf 1 the long jtumed to hat whi( h in^ to the lor on tlie y, in order ng in the is she was The place iveniently obtamlng *men who much t t was re laviour of • of them ropensity itercourse ed on for Eirt of the upia had wholly J king of t. Being Cook a ral pieces k Si. consi- derable quantity of plantains, cocoa-nuts, and other refreshments. This present was accompanied with a message, that on the next day he intended to pay our commander a visit. Accordingly, on the 6th. the lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen all staid at home in expectation of this important visitor, who did not, however, make his appearance, but sent three very pretty girls as his messengers, to demand something in return for his present. In the after- noon, as the great king would not go to the English, the English determined to go to the great king From the account which had been given of him as lord of the Bolabola men, who were the conquerors of Ulietea and tlie terror of all the other islands, Lieut. Cook and his companions expected to see a young and vigorous chief, with an intelligent coun- tenance, and the marks of an enterprising spirit ; instead of which, they found a feeble wretch, witnered and decrepit, half blind with age, and so sluggish and stupid, that he scarcely appeared to be possessed even of a common degree of understanding. Otaha being the principal place of Opoony's residence, he went with our navigators to that island on the next day; and they were in hopes of deriving some advan- tage from his influence, in obtaining such provisions as they wanted. In this respect, however, they were r'isappointed; for though they had presented him with an axe, as an inducement to him to encourage his subjects in dealing with them, they were obliged io leave him without naving procured a single article. Tiie time which the carpenters had taken up in stopping the leak of the ship, having detained our voyaffers longer at Ulietea than they would other- wise have staid, Lieut. Cook determined to give up the design of going on shore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared to be difficult of access. The principal ulands, about which the English had now spent somewhat more than three weeks, were six in num- ber ; Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubal, and m CAPTAIN COOK'S m Mau-rua. As they lie contiguous to each othei, the iiouteuant gave them the general appellation of the Society Islands, but did not think proper to distin- guish them separately by any other names than those by which they were called by the natives. On the 9th of August, the leak of the vessel having been stopped, and the fresh stock that had been pur> cliased, been brought on board, our commander took the opportunity of a breeze which sprang up at east, and sailed out of the harbour. As he was sailing away^ Tupia strongly urged him to fire a shot towards Rolabola; and tiiough that island was at seven leagues distance, the lieutenant obliged him by com- plying with his request. Tupia's views probably were to display a mark of his resentment^ and to show the power of his new allies. Our voyagers pursued their course, without meet- ing with any event worthy of notice, till the 13th, v/iien land wus dif covered bearing south-east, and v/iiich Tupia infcrmed them to be an island called Oheteroa. On the next day Mr. Cook sent Mr. Gore, one of h'? lieutenants, in the pinnace, with orders that he should endeavour to get on shore, and leant from the natives whclher there was an anchorage in a bav then in sight, and Tvhat land lay further to the southward. Mr. Gore was accompanied in this ex- pedition by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, who used every method, but in vain, to conciliate tiie minds of the inhabitants, and to engage them in a friendly intercourse-. As, upon making the circuit of the island, neither harbour nor anchcrfige could be found upon it, and at the same time the disposition of the people was so hostile, that landing would be ren- dered impracticable without bloodshed, Mr. Cook determined, with equal wisdom and humanity, not to attempt it, having no motive that could justify the risk of life. From Tupift our navigators learned that there /er« various iblauds lying at difEerent dislaaces and in FIAST YOYAQB. 95 diffeTent directions from Oheteroa, between the south and the north-west ; and that to the north-east there was an island called Manuu, Bird Island. This he represented as being at the distance of three days' sail; but he seemed most desirous that •Lieut. CooK should proceed to the westward, and described several islands in that situation which he said he had visited. It appeared from his description of them that these were Boscawen and Keppel's Islands, which were discovered by Captain vV all is. The furthest island that Tupia knew of to the southward^ lay, he said, at the distance of about two days' sail fromOheteroa, and was called Moutou. But he added, that his father had informed him of tliere being islands still more to the south. Upon the whole, our commander determined to stand southward in search of a conti- nent, and to lose no time in attempting to discover any other islands than such as he might happen to fall in with during his course. On the 15th of August, our voyagers sailed frorri Oheteroa, and on the 25th of the same month was celebrated the anniversary of their departure from England. The comet was seen on the 30th. It was a little above the horizon, in the eastern part oi ihe heavens, at one in the morning ; and at about half an hour after four it passed the meridian, and its tail subtended an an^le of forty-two degrees. Tupia, who was among otliers that observed the comet, instantly cried out, that as soon as it should be seen by the people of Bolabola, they would attack the inhabitants of Ulietea, who would be obliged to en- deavour to preserve their lives by fleeing with the utmost precipitation to the mountains. On the 6th of October, land was discovered, which appeared to be large. When, on the next day it was more distinctly visible, it assumed a still larger ap- pearance, and displayed four or Ave ranges of hills, rising one over the other, above all of which was a cliaiu of mountams of an enormous height. This laud 36 CAPTAIN COOK'S onturally became the subject of much eager conver- sation : and the general opinion of the gentlemen on board the Endeavour was, that they had found the Terra Australia incognita. In fact, it was a part of New Zealand, where the first adventures tlie Eng- lish met with were very unpleasant, on account of the hostile disposition of the inhabitants. Lieut. Cook having anchored, on the 8th, in a bay at the entrance of a small river, went on shore in the evening, with the pinnace and yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and attended b^ a party of men. Being desirous of conversing with some natives whom he had observed on the opposite side of the river from that on which he had landed, he ordered the yawl in, to carry himself and his compa nions over, and left the pinnace at the entrance. When they came near the place where the Indians were assembled, the latter all ran away ; and the gentlemen, having left four boys to take care of the yawl, walked up to several huts which were about two or three hundred yards from the water-side. Tliey had not gone very far, when four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the wood, and run- ning up to attack the boat, would certainly have cut her on, if they had not been discovered by the people in the pinnace, who called to the boys to drop down the stream. The boys instantly obeyed ; but being closely pursued by tlie natives, the cockswain of the pinnace, to whom the charge of the boats was com- mitted, £red a musket over their heads. At this they stopped and looked around thc^n; but their alarm speedily subsiding, they brandished their lances in a threatening manner, and in a few minutes renewed the pursuit. The firing of a second musket over their heads did not draw from them any kiad of notice. At last, one of them having lifted up his spear to dart at the boat, another piece was fired, by^ which he was shot dead. At the fall of their asso«. elate the three remaining Indians stood for a whilt ■- •• r r FIKST VOYAGE. 37 p conver« lemen on bund the 18 a part t!ie Eng- icount of in a bay »re in the >an\ed by )r a party ith some )site side .nded, he s coiupa entrance, t Indians and tlie re of the re about Lter-side. 1, armed and run- have cut 16 people op down ut being n of the as com- At tliis lit their d their minutes musket kind of up his ired, by asso-, whik P motionless, and seemed petrified with astonishment. No sooner had they recovered themselves, than they went back dragging after them the dead body, which however, they were obliged to leave, that it might not retard their flight. Lieut. Cook rnd his friends, who had straggled to a little distance from each other, were drawn together upon the report of the first musket, and returned speedily to the boat, in which having crossed the river, they soon beheld the Indian lying dead upon the ground. After their return to the ship, they could hear the people jn shore talking with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone of voice. Notwithstanding this disaster, the lieutenant, being desirous of establishing an intercourse with the na- tives, ordered, on the following day, three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander. the other gentlemen, and Tupia. About fifty of the inhabitants seemed to wait for their land- ing, having seated themselves upon the ground, on the opposite side of the river. This being regarded as a sign of feap, Mr. Cook, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, advanced towards them ; but they had not gone many paces before all the Indians started up, and every man produced either a long pike, or a small weapon of green talc. Though Tupia called to them in the la uiige of Otaheite^ they only answered by flourisiiu^ their weapons, and making signs for the gentlemen to drpart. On a musket being fired wide of them they desisted from their threats; and our commander who hud prudently retreated till the marines could be landed, again ad- vanced towards them, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander^ and Tupia, to whom were now added Mr. Qreen a)>d Mr. Monkhouse. Tupia was a second time directed to speak to them, and it was perceived with great pleasure that he was perfectly understood, his and their language being the same, excepting onlv in u ■; 38 CAPTAIN COOK'S diversity of dialect. He informed tliem that our voyagers only wanted provisions and water in ex- change for iron, the properties of which he explained as well as he was able. Though the natives seemed willing to trade, yet Tupia was sensible, during the course of his con versa tioi^ with them, that their in* tentions were unfriend lyj and of this he repeatedly warned the English gentlemen. At length twenty or thirty of the Indians were induced to cross the river, upon which presents were made to them of iron and beads. On these they appeared to set little value, and particularly on the iron, not having the least conception of its use, bo that nothing was ob- tained in return excepting a few feathers. Their arms, indeed, they offered to exchange for those of our voyagers, and this being refused, they made va- rious attempts to snatch them out of their hands. Tupia was now instructed to acquaint the Indians that our gentlemen would be obliged to kill them, if they proceeded to any further violence : notwith- standing which, one of them, while Mr. Green hap- pened to turn about, seized his hanger, and retired to a little distance with a shout of exultation. The others, at the same time, began to be extremely inso- lent, and more of the natives were seen coming to join them from the opposite side of the river, it beinff, therefore, necessary to repress them, Mr. 6anks fired, with small shot at the distance of about fiftecnyards, upon the man who had taken the hun- ffer. Though he was struck, he did not return the hanger, but continued to wave it round his head, while he slowly made his retreat. Mr. Monkhouse then fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped. So far, however, were the Indians from being suffi- ciently terrified, that the main body of them, who, upon the first discharge, had retired to a rock in the middle of the river, began to i-eturn, and it was with no small difficulty that Mr. Monkhouse secured the danger. The whole number of them continuhig tc »xp]ained ) seemed rin^ the their iii- peatedly I twenty TOSS the them of )et little ring the was ob- Their those of ade va- ' hands. Indians them, if otwith- m hap- re tired h. The y inso- ling to er. Jt , Mr. about e han- m the head, chouse oppfd. sufii- , who, in the 3 with d the ng tc advance, three of the English party discharged their pieces at them, loaded only with small shot, upon which they swam back for the shore, and it appeared, upon their landing, that two or three of them were wounded. While they retired slowly up the country, Lieut. Cook and his companions re-embarked irl their boats. As the lieutenant had unhappily expevfenced that nothing at this place could be done with these people, and found that the water in the river was salt, he proceeded in the boats round the head of the bay, in search of fresh water. Besides this, he had formed a design of surprising some of the natives, and taking them on board, that, by kind treatment and presents, he might obtain their friendship, and render them the instruments of establishing for him an amicable intercourse with their countrymen. While, upon account of a dangerous surf which every where beat upon the shore, the boats were prevented from land« ing, our commander saw two canoes con ing in from the sea, one under sail, and the other worked with paddles. This he thought to be a favourable oppor- tunity for executing his purpose. Accordingly the boats were disposed in such a manner as appeared most likely to be successful in intercepting the canoes. Notwithstanding this, the Indians, in the canoe which was paddled, exerted themselves with so much vigour, at the first apprehension of danger, that they escaped to the nearest land. The other canoe sailed on without discerning the English, till she was in the midst of them ; but no sooner did she discover them, than the people on board struck their sail, and plied their paddles so briskly as to outrun the boat by which they were pursued. Being within hearing, Tupia called to them to come along-side, with assurances that they should not in any degree be hurt or injured. They trusted, however, more to their own paddles than to Tupia's promises, and continued to flee from our navigators with all 40 CAPTAIN C00K*8 . i ! their power. Mr. Cook, as the least exceptionable expedient for accomplishing his design, ordered a musket to be fired over their heads. This, he hoped, would either make them surrender or leap into tiie water : but it produced a contrary effect. The Indi- ans, who were seven in number, immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to light. When, there- fore, the boat came up, they began to attack with their paddles, and with stones and other offensive weapons ; and they carried it on with so much vigour and violence, that the English thought themselves obliged to fire upon them in their own defence ; the consequence of which was thai: four were unhappily killed. The other three, who were boys, the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, in- stantly leaped into the water, and endeavoured to make their escape ; but, being with some difiiculty overpowered by our people, they were brouerht into the boat. It is impossible to reflect upon this part ci Lieut. Cook's conduct with any degree of satisfaction. He himself, upon a calm review, did not approve of it, and he was sensible that it would be censured by the feelings of every reader of humanity. It is probable that his mind was so far irritated by the disagreeable preceding events of this unfortunate day, and by the unexpected violence of the Indians in the canoe, as to lose somewhat of that self-possession by which his character in general was eminently distinguished. Candour, liowever, requires that I should relate what he hath offered in extenuation, not in defence, of the transaction ; and this shall be done in his own words : ** These people certainly did not deserve death for not choosing to confide in my promises, or not con- senting to come on board my boat, even if they had apprehended no danger. But the nature of my ser- vice required me to obtain a knowledge of their country, which I could not effect otherwise than by forcing my way into it in a hostile manner, or gain »tionable rdered a e hoped, into the he Imlj. T formed , there- ck with )ffensive h vigour smselves ce; the ihappily Q eldest ven, in- >ured to ifficulty 7ht into i Lieut, m. He fe of it, by the robable reeable by the loe, as which lished. |e what of the 'ords : h for con- had ser- their Ian by Igttin FIRST VOYAGE. 41 ing admission through the confidence and good-^will of the people. I had already tried the power of pre- sents without effect ; and I was now prompted, by my desire to avoid further hostilities, to ^et some of them on board, as the only method left of convincing them that we intended them no harm, and had it in our power to contribute to their gratification and convenience. Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal; and though in the contest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our victory might have been complete without so great an expense of life, yet in such situations, when the command of fire has been given^ no man can restrain its excess, or prescribe its effects." Our voyagers were successful in conciliating the mhids of the three boys, to which Tupia particularly contributed. When their fears were allayed, and their cheerfulness retimed, they sang a song with a decree of taste that sui prised the English gentlemen. The tune, like those ci our psalms, was solemn and slow, cuntaming many notes and serai- tones. Some further attempts were made to establish an mtercourse with the natives, and Mr. Cook and his friends, on the 10th, went on shore for this purpose, but being unsuccessful in their endeavours, they re- solved to re-embark, lest their stay should embroil them in another quarrel, and cost more ol the Indians their lives. On tne next day, the lieutenant weighed aochor, and stood away from this unfortunate and inhospitable place. As it had not afforded a single article that was wanted, excepting wood, he gave it I the name of Poverty Bav . By the inhabitants it is ' called Taoueroa, or Tlong Sand. I shall not regularly pursue the course of our commander round New Zealand. In this course he spent nearly six months, and made large additions to the knowledge of navi- gation and geo&rraphy. By making almost the whole eurcuit of New Zealand he ascertained it to be two islands, with a strength of evidence which no preju- P2 CAPTAIN COOK'S dice could gainsay or resist. He obtained likewise a full acquaintance with the inhabitants of the difier- ent parts of the country, with rej^ard to whom it was clearly proved that they are eaters of human flesh. Omitting a number of minute circumstances, I shall only select a few things which mark Mr. Cook's per- sonal conduct, and relate to his intercourse with the natives. The good usage the three boys had met with, and the friendly and generous manner in which they were dismissed to their own homes, had some e^ect in softening the dispositions of the neighbouring Indians. Several of them, who had come on board while the ship lay becalmed in the afternoon, manifested every sign of friendship, and cordially hivited the English to go back to their old bay, or to a cove which was not quite so far off. But Lieut. Cook chose rather to prosecute his discoveries, having reason to hope that he should find a better harbour than any he had yet seen. ,? Wliile the ship was hauling round to the south end of a small island, which the lieutenant had named Portland , from its very great resemblance to Port- laiBnmhe British Channel, she suddenly fell into shoal water and broke ground. The sounuings were never twice the same, jumping at once from seven fathoms to eleven. However they were always seven fathoms or more ; and in a short time the Endeavour got cleur of the danger. While the ship was in ap- parent distress, the mhabitants of the island, who in vast numbers sat on its white cliffs, and could not avoid perceiving some appearance of confusion on board, and some irregularity in the working of the vessel, were desirous of taking advantage of her cri- tical situation. Accordingly, five canoes, full ot men, and well armed, were put off with the utmost expedition, and they came so near, and showed sc hostile a disposition, by shouting, brandishing their lances, and using threatening gestures, that the 1 i PXRST VOYAOK. 48 likewise e difi'er- m it was in flesh. , I shall >k'8 per- vith the ith, and fiv were irfect iu Indians, 'hile the ;d every English ich was i rather to hope r he had uth end named [) Port- ell into ^s were 1 seven s seven eavour 171 ap* who in ild not )ion on of the per cri- full of utmost wed 8c g their it the lieutenant was In pain for his small boat, which was still employed in sounding. By a musket which he ordered to be fired over them, they were rather pro- voked than intimidated. The firing of a four-pounder loaded with grape-shot, though purposely discharged wide of them, produced a better effect. Upon the report of the piece, the Indians all rose up and shouted; but, instead of com 'r^uing the chase, they collected themselves together. After a short con- sultation, however, they went quietly away. On the 14th of October, Lieut. Cook having hoisted out his pinnace and long-boat to search for water, just as they were about to set ofT, several boats, full of New Zealand people, were seen coming from the shore. After some time, five of these boats, having on board between eighty and ninety men, made towards the ship ; and four more followed at no great distance, as if to sustain the attack. When the first five had got within about a hundred yards of the Bndeavour, they began to sing their war-song, and brandishing their pikes, prepared for an engagement. As the lieutenant was extremely desirous of avoiding the unhappy necessity of using fire-arms against the natives, Tupia was ordered to acquaint them ''it our voyagers had weapons which, like thunder, woi d destroy them in a moment ; that they would immt - diately convince them of their power by directing their effect so that they should not be hurt ; but that if they persisted in any hostile attempt they would be exposed to the direct attack of these formidable weapons. A four- pounder loaded with grape-shot was then fired wide of them ; and this expedient was fortunately attended with success. The report, the flash, and f'^ove all, the shot, which spread very far m the w , terrified the Indians to such a degree that they ^.l>gan to paddle away with all their might. At the instance, however, of Tupia, the people of one oi' the boats were hiduced to lay aside their arms, and to come under the stern of the Bndeavour ; in V 44 CAI'TAIN COOKS consequence of whi>h fK« presents. °' ^^'^^ ^'^ey received a variety of 'J^oV^^^^^ occurred, wh.Vl. Zealand was to ta^ an adt^n^f '^'habitants if jv^^' In a Jarge armed canoe wh^h^^^ ''^.''Y' "avigatorr m the boat. He wonU J. .! ?'"' "'«' ho diiVjr it un t'll he had the doTh h. h""'' ''""'ever, part wi h ,? '??"'<' be exercised on O^i^' '"^ *,^"'>' caution ordered the baize to b^ Sli- *"*!?' '''« lieutenant Vpon this, instead of sendint'"'*!:!'' '"'» h^ hand" With amazing coolness tn„. 1 "P ""« »'''». be beiran cloth which he had recerv^dl'S: ^'^ "'"' «« a baslcet; nor did he nav th/.''® Purchase of itiV Cook's demand or remonSn?«'fV '^^^'^ 'o Mr? . off from the English vessefo' ''"' '""n after put too generous to revenfff nV 9" commander was severity. ""'""Se this insult by any act o? on for" oVetajtSe^^f 'f*^" '""<='' ^<^ carrvimi^ n«r? f .1^® "Stives then heKfm ^"" '"^^ » canol' E^'teii^^t-^S^^^^^ I FIRST VOYAGE 4A rather to miss the rowers than to run the hazard of hurtkig Tayeto, it happened that one wan dropped. This occasioHed the Indians to quit their liold of the youth, who instantly leaped into the water, and swam towards the ship. In the mean while the largest o{ the canoes pulled round and followed him ; and till some muskets and a great gun were fired at her, slie did not desist from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat was lowered and the poor boy was taken up unhurt. Some of the gentlemen, who with their glasses traced the canoes to shore, agreed in asserting that they saw three men carried up the beach, who appeared to be either dead, or wholly disabled by their wounds. While, on the 18th, the Endeavour lay abreast of a peninsula within Portland Island, called Terakako, two of the natives, who were judged to be chiefs, placed an extraordinary degree of confidence in Mr. Cook. They were so well pleased with the kindness which had been shown them in a visit to the ship, that they were determined not to go on shore till the next morning. This was a circumstance by no means agreeable to the lieutenant, and he remonstrated against it ; but as they persisted in their resolution, he agreed to comply with it, provided their servants also were taken on board, and their canoe hoisted into the ship. The countenance of one of these two chiefs was the most open and ingenuous that our commander iiud ever seen, so that he soon gave up every suspicion of his entertaining any sinister design. When the guests were put on shore the next morning, they ex- pressed some surprise at seeing themselves so far from tlieir habitations. On Monday the 23rd, while the ship was in Tega- 1 doo Bay, Lieut. Cook went on shore to examine the wateruig place, and found every thing agreeable to his wishes. Tiie boat landed in the cove without the least surf; the water was excellent, and conveniently situated ; there was plenty of wood close to tlie bigo I f / 46 CAPTAIN cook's water mark, and the disposition of the people was as favourable in all respects as could be debired. Early the next morning, our commander sent Lieut. Gore to superintend the cutting of wood and filling^ oi water, with a sufficient number of men for both puT" poses, and all the marines as a guard. Soon after, ne went on shore himself, and continued there during the whole day. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had landed on the same day, found in their walks several things worthy of notice. As they were ad- vancing in some of the valleys, the hills on each side of which were very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight of an extraordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock perforated through its whole substance, so as to form a rude but stupendous arch or cavern opening directly to the sea. This aperture was seventy-five feet long, seventy-stven broad, and five- and-forty feet high, commanding a view of the bay and the hills on the other side, which were seen through it ; and opening at once upon the view, pro- duced an effect far superior to any of the contrivances of art. When, on the 23th, the gentlemen of the Endea- vour went on shore upon an island which lies to the left hand of the entrance of Tolaga Bay^^ they saw there the largest canoe they Had yet fflet* with, her length being sixty-eiglit feet and a half, her breadth tive feet, and her height three feet six inches. In the same island was a larger house than any they had hitherto seen ; but it was in an unfinished state, and full of chips. While the ship was in Hick's Bay, the inhabitants of the adjoining coast wei% found to be very hostile. This gave much uneasiness to our navigators, and Was indeed contrary to their expectations, for the}' had hoped that the report of their power and cle- mency had spread to a greater extent. At day-bresJc oji the Ist of November, they counted no less than forty-five canoes that were coming from the shore « VUiHT VOYAUE. 47 towards the Endeavour, and these were followed by several more trom another place. Some of the Indians traded fairly ; but otliers of them took what was handed down to them without making any return, gild addend derision to fraud. The insolence of one of them was very remarkable. Some linen hanging over the ship's side to dry, this man, without any ceremony, untied it, ai\d put it up in his bundle. Being immediately called to, and required to return it, instead of doing so, he let his canoe drop astern, and laughed at the English. A musket which was i\red over his head did not puc a stop to his mirth. From a second musket which was loaded with small shot he shrunk a little, when the shot struck him upon his back ; but he regarded it no more than one ot our men would have done the stroke of a rattan, and continued with great composure to pack up the linen which he had stolen. All the canoes now (Irop- ped astern, and set up their song of defiance, which lasted till they were about four hundred yards dis- tant from the ship. As they did not appear to have a design of attacking our voyagers. Lieutenant Cook was unwilling to do them any hurt, and yet he thought that their going off in a bravado might have ;a baa effect when it should be reported on shore. To convince them, therefore;, that they were still in his power, though far beyond the reach of any missile weapon with which they were acquainted, he ordered a four-pounder to be fired in such a manner as to pass near them. As the shot happened to strike the water, [and to rise several times at a great distance beyond [the canoes, the Indians were so much terrified, that without once looking behind them, they paddled [«way as fast as the}' were able. In standing westward from a small island called jMowtohora, the Endeavour suddenly shoaled her [water from seventeen to ten fathoms. As the lieu* [tenant knew that she was not far off from some small dands and rocks which had been seen before it was 48 CAPTAIII COOK S dark, and which he had intended to have passed that evenhig, he thought it more prudent to tack, nnd to spend the night under Mowtohora, where he was certain that there was no danger. It was happy for himself and for all our voyagers, that he formed this resolution. In the morning they discovered ahead of them several rocks, some of which were leve' with the surface of the water, and some below it, and the striking against which could not, in the hour of darkness, have been avoided. In passing between these rocks and the main, the ship had only from ten to seven fathoms water. When Mr. Cook was near an island which he called the Mayor, the inhabitants of the neighbouring coast displayed many instances of hostility, and, in their traihc with our navigators, committed various acts ol fraud and robbery. As the lieutenant intended to continue in the place five or six days, in order to make an observation of the transit of Mercury, it was ab- solutely necessary, for the prevention ot futnre mis- chief, to convince these people that the English were not to be ill-treated with impunity. Accordingly some small shot were tired at a thief of uncommon insolence, and a musket-ball was discharged through the bottom of his bor t. Upon this it was paddled to about a hundred vards distance ; and to the surprise of Mr. Cook and his friends, the Indians in the other canoes took not the least notice of their wounded companion, though he bled very much, but returned to the ship, (.nd couthiued to trade with the most perfect indliterence and unconcern. For a consider- able time they dealt fairly. At last, however, one of them thought fit to move off with two different pieces of cloth, which had been given fur the same weapon. When he got to such a distance that he thought him- self secure of his prizes, a musket was fired after him, which fortunately struck tne boat just at the water's edge, and made two holes in her side. This excised such an alarm, that not only the people who «,fot FIRST VOYAGB. 49 cd that und to be was ppy for formed covered h were e below , in the passing lad only le called Qg coast in their s acts ot inded to to make was ab- iire mis- [ish were ordingly icommon through iddled to surprise the other ivounded returned he most jonsider- »r, one of nt pieces weapon, rht him- ed after a at the le. This ople who were shot at^ but all the rest of the canoes made off with the utmost expedition. As the last proof of (superiority, our commander ordered a round shot to be fired over them, and not a boat stopped till they got to land. After an early breakfast on the 9th of November, -^ieut. Cook went on shore, with Mr. Green and pro- per instruments, to observe the transit of Mercury. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were of the party. The weather had for some time been very thick, with much rain ; but this day proved so favourable, that not a cloud intervened daring the whole transit. The observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone, Mr. Cook being employed in taking the pun's altitude to ascertain the time. While the gentlemen were thus engaged on shore, ihey were alarmed by the firing of a great gun from the ship, and, on their return, received the followius account of the transaction from Mr. Gore, the second lieutenant, who had been left commanding officer on board. During the carrymg on of a trade with some small canoes, two very 'large ones came up full of men. In one of the canoes were forty-seven persons^ all of whom were armed with pikes, stones, and darts, und assumed the appearance of a hostile intention. However, after a little time, they began to traffic, 9ome of them offering their arms, and one of them a square piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, called haabow. Mr. Gore having agreed for it, sent down the price, which was a piece of British cloth, and expected iiis purchase. But as soon as the Indian had got Mr. Gore's cloth in his possession, he refused to part with his own, and put off his canoe. Upon being threatened for his fraud, he and his com- panions began to sing tiieir war-song in defiance, and shook their paddles. Thoueh their insolence did not proceed to an attack, and only defied Mr. Gore to take any remedy in his power, he was so provoked, that he levelled a musket loaded with ball at the ofTender 20 - * . 60 CAPTAIN COOK'S while he was holding the cloth in his hand, and shot him dead. When the Indian fell, all the canoes put off to some distance, but continued to keep together in such a manner, that it was apprehended they might still meditate an attack. To secure, therefore, a safe passage for the boat of the Endeavour, which was wanted on shore, a round shot was fired with so much effect over their heads, as to make them all flee with the utmost precipitation. It was matter of regret to Lieutenant Cook that Mr. Gore had not, in the case of the offending Indian, tried the experiment of a few small shot, which had been successful in former in- Btances of robbery. On Friday, the 10th, our commander, accompanied by Mr. Banks, and the other gentlemen, went with two boats to examine a large river that empties itself into the head of Mercury Bay. As the situation they were now in 'bounded v^ith conveniences^ the lieutenant has taken care to point them out for the benefit of future navigators. If any occasion should ever render it necessary for a ship either to winter here, or to stay for a considerable length of time, tents might be built on a high point or peninsula in this place, upon ground sufficiently spacious for the purpose ; and they might easily be made impregna- ble to the whole force of the country Indeed, the most skilful engineer in Europe could not choose a situation better adapted to enable a small number to •iefend themselves ae:ainst a greater. Among other accommcdations which the Endeavour's company met with in Mercury Bay, they derived an agreeable "efrebhment from some oyster beds which they had fortunately discovered. The oysters, which were as good as ever came from Colchester, and about tlie same size, were so plentiful, that not the boat only, but the ship itself, might have been loaded in one tide. On Wednesday, the 15th, Lieutenant Cook sailed out of Mercury Bay. This name had been given tc it, on account of tiie obsi rvation which had tlierc been i'lHST VOVAOB. 51 1, and shot canoes put p together they might fore, a safe nrhich was th so much 1 flee with f regret to in the case nt of a few former in- companied went with ipties itseli e situation iencesy tiie out for the iion should to winter h of time, ininsula in us for the impregna- ideed, the t choose a number to 3ng other company agreeable they had h were as about tiie )oat only, 1 one tide. )ok sailed n given tc iierebecQ lade of the transit of that planet over the sun. The river where oysters had been so plentifully found he •ailed O yster River . There is another river at the* iead of «i6 Bay, which is the best and safest place for a ship that wants to stay any length of time. From the number of mangroves about it, the lieuten- Sant named it Mangrove river. In several parts of iiMercury Bay, our voyagers saw, thrown upon the ^^hore, great quantities of iron-sand, which is brought jmown by every little rivulet of fresh water tliat finds Its way from the country. Tliis is a demonstration ihat there is ore of that metal not far inland ; and yet lone of the inhabitants of New Zealand, who had yet >een seen, knew the use of iron, or set upon it the least degree of value. They had all of them pre- ferred the most worthless and useless trifle, not only to a nail, but to any tool of that metal. Before the ~^jKleavour left the bay, the ship's name and that of the commander were cut upon one of the trees near the catering place, together with the date of the y^ar md month when our navigators were there. Besides this, Mr. Cook, after displaying the English colours, took formal possession of the place in the name of his FBritannic Majesty, King George the Tiiird. y In the range from Mercury Bay, several canoes, ion the 18th, put off from different places, and ad- vanced towards the Endeavour. When two of them which there might be about sixty men, came m fwithin the reach of the Imman voice, the Indians sung [their war-song ; but seeing that little notice was taken H)f them, they threw a few stones at the English, and [then rowed off towards the shore. In a short time, ihowever, they returned, as if with a fixed resolu- ^tion to provoke our voyagers to a battle, animating [themselves by their song as they had done before. .Tupia, witliout any directions from the gentlemen of [the Endeavour, began to expostulate with the natives, mud told them that our people had weapons which ; could destroy them in a moment. Their answer to I &2 CAPTAIN cook's this expostulation was, in their own langua^re, "Come on shore, and we will kill you all." " Well." replied Tupia, " but why should you molest us while we are at sea ? As we uo not wish to fight, we shall not ac- cept your challenge to come on shore ; and here there is no pretence for a quarrel, the sea being no more your property than the ship.'* This eloquence, which greatly surprised Lieutenant Cook and his friends, as he had not suggested to Tupia any of the argu- ments he made use of, produced no effect upon the minds of the Indians, who soon renewed their attack. The oratory of a musket, which was fired through one of their boats, quelled their courage, and sent them instantly away. ^ While our commander was in the Bay of Islands, \ he had a favourable opportunity of examining the hiterior part of tlie country and its produce. At day- break, tnerefore, on the 20th of the month, he set out in the pinnace and long-boat, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, and found the inlet, at which they entered, end in a river, about nine miles above the ship. Up this river, to which f was given the name of the Thames, they proceeded till near noon, when they were fourteen miles within its entrance. As the gentlemen then found the face of the country to continue the same without any alteration in the course of the stream, and had no hope of tracing it to its source, they landed on the west side to take a view of the lofty trees which every where adorned its banks. The trees were of a kind wliich they had seen before, both I in Poverty Bay and Hawke's Bay, though only i at a distance. Tiiey had hot walked a hundred yards into the woods, when tliey met witli one of the trees, which, at the height of six feet above the ground, was nineteen feet eight inches in the girth. Lieut. Cook, having a quadrant with him, measured its height from the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty-nine feet. It was aa straight as on %i' a^'e,«Coine 'ell." replied vhile we are ihall not ac- d here there ng no more ence, which his friends, f the argu- :t upon tlie heir attack, ed througli e, and sent of Islands, mining the '• At day- nth, he set ipanied by found the ver, about , to which >ceeded till within its be face of hout any and had ey landed ofty trees The trees fore, both ugh only red yards the trees, i ground, • laeut. sured its tbund it ht a9 on PIH8T yOTAOB. M ■ rt^ rrow, iind tapered but very little in proportion to its eight ; so that, in the lieutenant's judgment, there lust have been three hundred and fifty-six feet of olid timber in it, exclusive of the branches. As the ^arty advanced, they saw many other trees which |Were still larger. A young one they ci^t down, the ood of which was heavy and solid, not tit for masts, mt such as would make the finest plank in the world, he carpenter of the ship, who was with the party, aid that the timber resembled that of the pitch- ine, which is lightened by tapping. If it should ppear that some such method would be successful I lightening these trees, they would then furnish asts superior to those of any country in Kurope. s the wood was swampy, the gentlemen could not ange far : but they found many stout trees of other inds with which they were totally unacquainted, nd specimens of which they brought away. On the 22nd, another instance occurred in which he commanding ofiicer left on board did not know ow to exercise his power with the good sense and moderation of Mr. Cook. While some of the natives were in the ship below with Mr. Banks, a young man who was upon the deck stole a half-minute glass, and was detected just as he was carrying it off. Mr. Hicks, in his indignation against the offender, was pleased to order that he should be punished, by giving nira twelve lashes with a cat-o'nine tails. W'iien the other Indians, who were on board, saw him seized for the purpose, they attempted to rescue him ; and being resisted they called for their arms, which were handed from the canoes. At the same time, the people of one of the canoes attempted to come up the side of the Endeavour. The tumult having called up Mr. Banks and Tupia, the natives ran to the latter, and solicited his interposition. All, however, which he could do, as Mr. Hicks continued inexora- ble, was to assure them that nothing was intended against the life of their companion and that it was .54 -CAPTAIN COOK'S necessary that he should suffer some punishment for his offence. With this explanation tney appeard to be satisfied ; and when the punishment had been in- flicted, an old man among the spectators, who was supposed to be the criminars father, gave him a severe beating, and sent him down into his canoe. Notwithstanding this, the Indians were far from being reconciled to the treatment which their coun- tryman had received. Their cheerful confidence was gone ; and though they promised, at their de- parture, to return with some fish, the English saw them no more. On the 29th of November, Lieut. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others with them, were in a situ- ation somewhat critical and alarming. Having landed upon an island in the neighbourhood of Cape Bret, they were in a few moments surrounded by two or three hundred people. Though the Indians were all armed, they came on in so confused and straggling a manner, that it did not appear that any injury was intended bv them ; and the English gentlemen were determined that hostilities should not begin on their part. At first the natives continued quiet ; but their weapons were held ready to strike, and th«?y seemed rather irresolute than peaceable. While the lieutenant and his friends remained in a state of suspense, another party of Indians came up ; and the boldness of the whole body being increased by an augmenta- tion of their numbers, they began the dance and song, which are their preludes to a battle. An attempt that was made by a number of them to seize the two boats which had brouglit our voyagers to land, ap- peared to be the signal for a general attack. It now became necessary for Mr. Cook to exert himself with vigour. Accordingly he discharged his musket, which was loaded with small shot, at one of the most forward of the assailants ; and Mr. Banks, and two of our men^ fired immediately afterwards. Though this made the natives fall back in some confusion, PIR8T TOTAOB. » ihment for ippeard to a been in- , who was ,ve him a his canoe. far from heir coun- confidence their de- iglish saw f r. Banks, in a situ- Having i of Cape ed by two ians were straggling njury was men were 1 on their but their >y seemed ieutenant suspense, i boldness ugmenta- andsong, i attempt e the two and, ap- Itnow himself } musket, the most and two Though onfusion^ nevertheless one of the chiefs, who was at the distance of about twenty yards, had the courage to rally them, and calling loudly to his companions led them on to the charge. Dr. Solander instantly discharged his piece at this champion, who, upon feeling the shot, stopped short and then ran away with the rest of his countrymen. Still, however, they did not disperse, but got on rising ground, and seemed only to want some leader of resolution to renew the assault. As they had now got beyond the reach of small shot, the English fired with ball, none of which taking effect, the Indians continued together in a body. While our people were in this doubtful situation, which lasted about a quarter of un hour, the ship, from which a much greater number of natives were seen than could be discovered on shore, brought her broad- side to bear, and entirely dispersed them, by firing a shot over their heads. In this skirmish only twu of them were hurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost— a case which would not have happened, if Lieut. Cook had not restrained his men, who either from fear or the love of mischief, showed as much impatience to destroy the Indians, as a sportsman to kill his game. Such was the difference between the disposition of the common seamen and marines, and that of their humane and Judicious commander. On the same day Mr. Cook displayed a very exem- plary act of discipline. Some of the ship's people, who when the natives were to be punished for a fraud, assumed the inexorable Justice of a Lycurgus, thought fit to break into one ot their plantations, and to di^ up some potatoes. For this the lieutenant ordered each of them to receive twelve lashes, after which two of them were discharged ; but the third, in a singular strain of morality, insisted upon it that it was no crime in an Englishman to plunder an Indian plantation. The method taken by our commander (0 refute lus casuistry was to tend him back to his !U! CAPTAIN cook's confinement, and not permit him tc be released tU) be had been punished with six lashes raore« The Endeavour, on the 5th of December, was in the most imminent hazard of beinp^ wrecked. At four o'clock in the morning of that day, our voyagers weighed with alight breeze; but it being variable, with frequent calms, they made little way. From that time till the afternoon, they kept turning out of the bay, and about ten at night were suddenly be- calmed, so that the ship could neither wear nor ex- actly keep her station. The tide or current setting strong, she drove toward land so fast, that, before any measures could be taken for her security, she was within a cable's length of the breakers. Though our people had thirteen fathom's water, the ground was so foul that they did not dare to drop their anchor. In this crisis, the pinnace being immedi- ately hoisted out to take the ship in tow, and the men, sensible of their danger, exerting themselves to the utmost, a faint breeze sprang off the land, and our navigators perceived, with unspeakable joy, that the vessel made head'vvay. So near was she to the shore, that Tupia, who was ignorant of the hair's- breadth escape the company had experienced, was at this very time conversing with the Indians upon the beach, whose voices were distinctly heard, notwith- sttinding the roar of the breakers. Mr. Cook and his friends now thought that all danger was over; but about an hour afterwards, just as the man m the chains had cried ** seventeen fathom," the ship struck. The shock threw them into the utmost consternation, and almost instantly the man in the chains cried out ** five fathom." By this time the rock on which the ship had struck being to the windward, she went on without having received the least damage ; and the water very soon deepening to twenty futhoms, she again sailed in security. " '*, The hihabitants in the Bay of Islands were found to be far more numerous than in any other part of *«■ FIRST YOYAOB. &I New Zealand Which Lieat. Cook had hitherto Tislted. It did not appear that they were united under one bead; and though their towns were fortified, they seemed to live togetlier in perfect amity. The Endeavour, on the 9th of December, lying be* calmed in Poiibtless B ay« an opportunity was taken \ to inquire oTtne natives concerning their country ; and our navigators learned from tliem, by the help of Tupia, that at a distance of three days' rowing in their canoes, at a place called Moore- Whennua, the land would take a short turn to the southward, and thence extend no more to the west. This place the English gentlemen concluded to be the land dis-^ covered by Tasman, and which had been named by him Cape Maria van Diemen. Tlie lieutenant, find- ing the inhabitants so intelligent, inquired further if they knew of any country besides their own. T^ this they answered, that tliey had never visited any otlier ; but that their ancestors had told them that there was a country of great extent to the north- west by north, or north-north-west, called Uiimaroa, to which some people had sailed in a very large canoe ; and that only a part of them had returned, who reported that, after a passage of a month, they had seen a country, where the people ate hogs. On the 30th of December, our navigators saw the land, which they judged to be Cape Maria van Die- men, and which corresponded with the account that had been given of it by the Indians. The next day, from the appearance of Mount Camel, they had a demonstration that, where they now were, the breadth of New Zealand could not be more than two or three miles from sea to sea. During this part of the navigation, two particulars occurred, which are very remarkable. In latitude 35 deg. S., and in the midst of summer, Lieut. Cook met with a gale of wind, which from its strength and continuance, was such as he had scarcely ever been in before : and he was three weeks in getting ten leagues to toe west- ^1 ■i , it I '; 1, « ^ 6S CAPTAIK COOK'S ward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues ; for at tills time, being tiie 1st of January, 1770, it was so long since he had passed Ca pe Bre t, While the I gale lasted our voyagers were happify at a consider- able distance from the land : since, otherwise, it was highly probable that they would never have returned to relate their adventures. The shore at Queen Charlotte's Sound, where the I English had arrived on the 14th of January, seemed to torm several bays, into one of which the lieutenant proposed to carry the ship, which was now become very foul, in order to careen her, to repair some de- fects, and to obtain a recruit of wood and water. At . day-break the next morning, he stood in for an inlet, and at eight got within the entrance. At nine o'clock, there being little wind, and what there was being variable, the Endeavour was carried by the tide or current within two cables' length of the north- west shore, where she had ftfty-four fathom water. By the help of tlie boats she was got clear, and about two our people anchored in a very safe and conveni- ent cove. Soon after Mr. Cook, with most of the gentlemen, landed upon th coast, where they found a fine stream of excellent water, and wood' in the greatest plenty. Indeed the land in this part of the country was one forest of vast extent. As the gen- tlemen had brought the seine with them, it was hauled once or twice, and with such success that different sorts of fish were caught, amounting to nearly three hundred weight. The equal distribution of these among the ship s company furnished them with a very agreeable refreshment. ~ When Lieut. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia and some others, landed on the 16th, they met with an Indian family, among whom they found horrid and indisputable proofs of the custom of eating human flesh. Not to resume so disagreeable a subject, it may here be observed, once for all, that evidences oi the same custom appeared on various occasions. V . FIRST VOYAOB. 59 On the next day a delightful ohject engaged the attention of our voyaprs. Tlie ship lying at the distance of somewhat less than a quarter of a niile from the shore, they were awakened by tiie singing of an incredible numberof birds which seemed to strain their throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely superior to any they had ever heard of the same kind, and seemed to be like small bells most exquisitely tuned. It is probable that the distance, and the water between might be of no small advantage to the sound. Upon inquiry, the gentle- men were informed that the birds here always began to sing about two hours after midnight; and tiiat, coutiiming their music till sun-rise, they were silent the rest of the day. In this last respect they resem- bled the nightingales of our own country. On the 18th, Lieut. Cook went out in the pinnace to take a view of the bay in which the ship was nov^ at anchor, and found it to be of great extent, consist- ing of numberless small harbours and coves in every direction. The lieutenant confined his excursion to the western side: and the coast where he landed being an impenetrable forest, nothing could be seen worthy of notice. As our commander and his friends were returning, they saw a single man in a canoe fishing. Rowing up to him, to their great surprise, ' he took not the least notice of them, and, even when they were alongside of him, continued to follow his occupation, without adverting to them, any more than if they had been invisible. This behaviour was not, however, the result of either sullenness or stu- pidity ; for upon being requested to draw up his net, that it mif^ht be examined, he readily complied. He showed likewise to our people his mode of fishing, which was simple and ingenious. When on the 19th, the armourer's forge was set up, and all hands on board were busy in careening, and in other necessary operations about the vessel, eome Indians who had brought plenty of fish ex- 80 CAPTAIN COOKS changed them for nails, of which they had now Dentin to perceive the use and value. This may be considered as one instance in wliich tliey were enlightened and benefited by their intercourse with our navigators. While, on the 22d, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander employed themselves in botanizinj^ near the beach, our commander, taking a seaman with him, ascended one of the hills of the country. Upon reaching its summit, he found the view of the inlet, the head of which he had a little before in vain attempted to dis- cover in the pinnace, intercepted by hills still higher than that on which he stood, and which were ren- dered inaccessible by impenetrable woods. He was, however, amply rewarded for his labour ; for he saw the sea on the eastern side of the country, and a pas- sage leading from it to that on the west, a little to the eastward of the entrance of the inlet where the ship lay. The main land, which was on the south- east siue of this iulet, appeared to be a narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form part of the south-west side of the strait. On the opposite side, the land trended away east as far as the eye could reach ; and to the south-east there was discerned an opening to the sea, which washed the eastern coast. The lieu- tenant saw also on the east side of the inlet some islands, which he had before taken to be part of the main land. In returning to the ship, he examined the harbours and coves, that lie behind the islands which he had seen from the hills. The next day was euiDloyed by him in further surveys and discoveries. During a visit to the Indians on the 24th, Tupia being of the party, they v^re observed to be conti- nually talking of guns and shooting people. For this subject of their conversation, the English gentlemen could not at all account. But, alter perplexing themselves with various conjectures, they at length learned that, on the 21st, one of our officers, under the pretence of going out to fish, had rowed up to a hippah or village on the coast. When he had done so* FIRST VOYAGIB. 01 two or three canoes coming off towards his boat, his itnTB suggested that an attack was intended, in con- sequence of which tliree muskets were iired, one with small shot, and two with ball, at the Indians, who retired with the utmost precipitation. It is highly probable that they had come out with friendly hiten- tions, for such intentions were expressed by their behaviour, both before and afterwards. This action of the officer exhibited a fresh instance of how little some of the people under Lieutenant Cook had im- Ibibed of the wise, discreet, and humane spirit of their I commander. On the morning of the 26th, the lieutenant went lagain out in a boat, with Mr. Banks and Dr. So- lauder, and entered one of the bays which lie on the east side of the inlet, in order to obtain another sight |of tlie strait which passed between the eastern and western seas. Having landed for this purpose at a :onvenient place, they climbed a hill ot very consi- lerable height, from which they had a full view of the strait, with the land on the opposite shore, which they judged to be about four leagues distant. As it ^as hazy in the horizon, they could not see far to the south-east; but Mr. Cook saw enough to letermine him to search the passage with the ship as }uon as he should put to sea. The gentlemen found )n the top of the hill a parcel of loose stones, with ^hich they erected a pyramid, and left in it some Imusket-bails, small shot, beads, and such other Itliings which they happened to have about them, as were likely to stand the test of time. These, not being of Indian workmanship, would convince any European who should come to the place and pull it down, that natives of Europe had been there before. [After this, the lieutenant and his friends went to a town of which the Indians had informed them, and which, like one they had already seen, was built upon a small island or rock, so difficult of access, that they gratified their ciuriosity at the risk of their lived. 1 i I 62 CAPTAIN COOK*S Here, as had been the case in former visits to the in- habitants of that part of the country near which the ship now lay, tliiy were received with open arms, carried through tlie wliole of the place, and sliown ail that it contained. The town consisted of between eighty and a hundred houses, and had only one figiiting stage. Mr. Cook, Mr. Banlis, and Dr. So- lander, happened to have with t)*em a few nails and ribands, and some paper, with which the people were so highly gratified, that when the gentlemen went away, they filled the English boat with dried fish, of which it appeared that they laid up large quantities. ~ A report was spread, that one of the men who had been so rashly fired upon by the officer who had vi- sited the hippali under the pretence of fishing, was dead of his wounds. But, on the 29th, the lieutenant had the great consolation of discovering that this report was groundless. On the same day he went again on shore upon the western point oi the inlet, and from a hill of considerable height had a view of the coast to the north-west. The furthest land he could see in that quarter was an island at the distance of about ten leagues, lying not far from the main. Between this island and the place where he stood, he discovered, close under the shore, several other islands, forming many bays in which there appeared to be good anchorage for shipping. After he had set off* the different points for his survey, he erected another pile of stones, in which he left a piece of sil- ver coin, with some musket-balls and beads, and a fragment of an old pendant flying at the top. Ou the 30th of January, the ceremony was per- for'jaed of giving name to the inlet where our voy- agers now lay, and of erecting a memorial of the visit which they h.id made to this place. The car- penter having prepared two posts for the purpose, our commander ordered tliem to be inscribed with the ship's name, and the dates ot the year and the FIRST VOYAaB. 68 >nth. One of these he set up at the watering- ice, hoisting the union flag upon the top of it; and i other he carried over to the island that lies irest the sea, and which is called by the natives >taara. He went first, accompanied by Mr. Monk- e and Tupia, to the Jieighbouring village or hip- , where he met with an old muo who had main- Ined a friendly intercourse with the English. To is old mau, and several Indians besides, the lieu- iant^ by means of Tupia, explained his design, lich, he informed them, was to erect a nark upon island, in order to show to any other ship which >uld happen to come thltber, that our navigators \d been there before, lo this the inhabitants idily consented, and promised that they would Iver pull it down. He then gave something to every present, and to the old man a silver three-pence some spike nails, with the king's broad arrow ^t deep upon them. These were things which Mrt >ok thought were the most likely to be long pre- rved. After this, he conveyed the post to the ;hest part of the island ; and having fixed it firmly the ground, hoisted upon it the union flag, and ^noured the inlet with the name of Queen Char- Lte's Sound. At the same time he took a formal b!iession of this and the adjacent country in the ime and for the use of his Majesty King George le Tliird. The ceremony was concluded by the mtlemen drinking a bottle of wine to hei Majesty's ialth ; and the bottle being given to the old man, ho had attended tliem up the hill, he was highly jlighted with his present. A philosopher perhaps might inquire on what round Lieutenant Cook could take formal posses- ion of this part of New Zealand in the name and ')r the use ol the King of Great Britain, when the ►untry was already inhabited, and of course be- )iiged to those by whom it was occupied, and whose hicestors might have resided in it for many pre- ■fH' 04 CAPTAIN cook's eedingf ages. To this the best answer seems to be that the lieutenant, in the ceremony performed by him, had no reference to the originul inhabitants, or any intention to deprive them of their natural rights, but only to preclude the claims of future European navigators, who, under the auspices and for the benefit of their respective states or kingdoms, might form pretensions to which they were not entitled by prior discovery. On the 31st, our voyagers having completed their wooding, and filled their water-casks, Mr. Cook sent out two parties, one to cut afid make brooms, and another to catch fish. In the evening there was a strong gale from the north-west, with such heavy rain, that the little wild musicians on shore suspended their song, which till now had been constantly heard during the night, with a pleasure that it was impos* sible to lose without regret. The gale, on the 1st of February, increased to a storm, with heavy gusts from the high land, one of which broke the hawser that had been fastened to the shore, and induced the necessity of letting go another anchor. Though, to- wards midnight, the gale became more moderate, the rain continued with so much violence, that the brook which supplied the ship with water overflowed its banks, in consequence of which ten small casks that had been filled the day before were carried away, and, notwitiistaiiding the most diligent search for them, could not be recovered. The Endeavour, on Monday the 5th, got under sail ; but the wind soon failing, our commander was obliged again to come to an anchor a little above Motuara. As he was desirous of making still further inquiries whether any memory of Tasman had been preserve*! in New Zealand, he directed Tupia to ask of the old man before mentioned, who had come on board to take his leave of the English gentlemen, whether he bad ever heard that such a vessel as theirs had before visited the country. To this he replied in the nega- FIRST VOITAUE. 66 ■ seems to be performed by nhabitants, or latural rights, :ure European > and for the gdoms, might lot entitled by >mpleted their IVIr. Cook sent I brooms, and g there was a h such heavy lore suspended nstantly heard it was impos- I, on the 1st of 1 heavy gusts ^e the hawser id induced the Though, to- moderate, the ;hat the brook overflowed its all casks that carried away, nt search for ot under sail ; r was obliged ove Motuara. her inquiries een preserved sk of the old } on board to [I, whether lie irs had before 1 in the nega* ive ; but said that his ancestors had told him that [here once had arrived a small vessel from a distant ind, called Ulimaroa, in which were four men, who ipon reaching the shore, were killed. On being asked rhere this country lay, he pointed to the northward. ^f Ulimaroa Lieutenant Cook had heard something before from the people about the Bay of Islands, who laid that it had been visited by their ancestors. \ipia had also some confused traditionary notions [oncerning it; but no certain conclusion could be ^rawi) from his account, or that of the old Indian. Soon after the ship came to anchor the second time, [r. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had gone on shore see if any gleanings of natural knowledge remained, >11 in, by accident, with the most agreeable Indian imily they had yet seen, and which afforded them a better opportunity of remarking the personal subor- Unation among the natives than had before offered i'iie whole behaviour of this family was affable obliging and unsuspicious. It was matter of sincere fret to the two gentlemen that they had not sooner iPt with these people, as a better acquaintance with ihe manners and dispositions of the inhabitants of the Country might hence have been obtained in a day, [han had been acquired during the whole stay of the English upon tlie coast. When, on the 6th of February, Lieutenant Cook lad got out of tlie sound, he stood over to the east- ward, in order to get the strait well opened before [he tide of ebb approached. At seven in the evening iwo small islands, which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at [he south-east head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, bore )ast, at the distance of about four miles. It was ^arly calm, and the tide of ebb setting out, the Undeavour, in a very short time, was carried by le rapidity of the stream close upon one of the islands, 'liich was a rock rising almost perpendicularly out the sea. The danger increased every moment, ind there was but one exptidient to prevent the shin ■ a' gc CAPTAIN iroOK's being duslicd to pieces, the success of which a few moments would determine. S' e was now within kittle more than a cable's length of the rock, and had above seventy-five fathom water. But, upon drop- ping an anchor, and veering above one hundred and tifty fathom of cable, she was happily brought up. This, however, would not have saved our navigators, if the tide, which set south by east, had not, upon meeting with the island, changed its direction to south-east, and carried them beyond the first point. In this siiuation they were not above two cables* length from the rocks ; and here they remained in the strength of the tide, which set to the south-east after the rate of five miles an hour, from a little after seven till midnight, when the tide abated, and tho vejsel began to heave. By three in the morning, a light breeze at north-west having sprung up, our voyagers sailed for the eastern shore, though they iiiade but little way in consequence of the tide being against them. The wind, however, having afterwards freshened, and come to north and north-east, with this and the tide of ebb, they were in a short time hurried through the narrowest part of the strait, and then stood away for the southernmost land they had in prospect. There appeared over this land a moun- tain or stupendous height, which was covered with snow. The narrowest part oi' the strait, through which the Endeavour had been driven with such , rapidity, lies between Cape Tierawitte on the coast j of Eaheinomauwe, and Cape Koamaroo ; the distance " between which our commander judged to be four or five leagues. Notwithstanding the difficulties arising from this tide, now its strength is known, the strait may be passed without danger. Some of the officers; started a notion that Eaheinomauwe was not an ibland, and that the land might stretch away to the { south-east, from between Cape Turnagaiu and Cape • Pailiser, there being a space of between twelve and Ui'teen leagues which had not yet been seen. Though FIRST VOYAQB. m which a few now witiiin ock, and had , upon drop- hundred and brought up. ir navigators, ad not, upon direction to le first point. e two cables* remained in iie gouth-east L a little after ited, and the e morning, a •ung up, our though they ;he tide being ng afterwards th-east, with a short time he strait, and and they had and a moun- covered with rait, tlirougli n with such on the coast the distance to be four or ulties arising vn, the strait f the officera was not an away to the in and Cape n twelve and ien. Though .^ Lieut. Cook, from what ho had observed the first ime he had discovered the strait, and from many ^ther concurrent circumstances, had the strongest >nviction that they were mistaken, he nevertheless isolved to leave no possibility of doubt with respect ) au object of so much importance. For this pur- pose he gave such a direction to the navigation of ie ship as would most efiectually tend to determine le matter. After a course of two days he called the ifiicers upon deck, and asked them whether thev rere now satisfied that Eaheinomauwe was an island. this question they readily answered in the affir- lative ; and all doubts being removed, the lieutenant iroceeded to further researches. During Mr. Cook*s long and minute examination f the coast of New Zealand, he gave names to tho ays, capes, promontories, islands, and rivers, and her places which were seen and visited by him, cepting in those cases where their original appel- tions were learned from the natives. The names fixed upon wore either derived from certain cha- cteristic or adventitious circumstances, or were nferred in honour of his friends and acquaintance, hiefiy those of the naval line. Such of the readers the present work as desire to be particularly in- rmed concerning them, will naturally have recourse the indications of them in the several maps on hich they are described. The ascertaining of New Zealand to be an island tid not conclude Lieutenant Cook's examination of e nature, situation, and extent of the country. fter this, he completed his circumnavigation, by nging from Cape Turnagain southward along the tern coast of roenammoo, round Cape South, and ) ck to the western entrance of the strait he had i »sed, and wliich was very properly named Cook's j rait. This range, which commenced on the 9th of ' Uruary, I shall not minutely and regularly pursue ; t content myself, as in the former course, with ( 11 68 CAPTAIN cook's mentioning such circumstances as are more directly adapted to my immediate design. . .,.„;^ In the afternoon of the 14th, wiien Mr. Banks w^i out in the boat shooting, our voyagers saw with their glasses, four double canoes put off from the shore towards him, liaving on board fifty-seven men. The lieutenant bein^ alarmed for the safety of his friend, immediately ordered signals to be made for his return, but he was prevented from seeing them by tne situ- ation of the sun with regard to the ship. However, it was soon with pleasure observed that his boat was in motion ; and he was taken on board before the Indians, who perhaps had not discerned him, came up. Their attention seemed to be wholly fixed upon the ship. They came within about a stone's cast of her, and then stopped, gazing at the English with a look of vacant astonisliment. Tupia in vain exerted his eloquence to prevail upon them to make a nearer approach. After surveying our navigators some time, they left them, and made towards the shore. The gentlemen could not help remarkhig on this oc- casion, the different dispositions and behaviour of the different inhabitants of the country at the first sight of the Endeavour. The people now seen kept aloof with a mixture of timidity and wonder : others had immediately commenced hostilities : the man who was found fishing alone in his canoe appeared to regard our voyagers as totally unworthy of notice ; and some had come on board almost without invita- tion, and with an air of perfect confidence and good will. From the conduct of the last visitors, Lieute- nant Cook gave the land from which they had put off, and which had the appearance of an island, the name of Lookers-on. When an island which lies about five leagues from the coast of Tovy-Poenammoo, and which was named Banks' Island, was first discovered in the direction of south by weot, some persons on board were of opuiion that they saw land bearing south-soutU-e^t, i- ^'^^^-1, •••*i"i.5 V • ymm FIRST V0YAOJ5. 69 nore directly r. Banks was iw with their tm the shore fn men. The of his friend, 'or his return, by tne situ- >. However, his boat was d before the d him, came ly fixed upon one's cast of iglish with a vain exerted lake a nearer ptors some Is the shore. g on this oc- ^ehaviour of at the first >w seen kept nder : others i: the man appeared to y of notice ; liout iuvita- ce and good tors, Lieute- ley had put n island, the eagues from 1 was named he direction )ard were of Bouth-easti m I .■1 id south-east by east. Our commander who was Imself upon deck at the time, told them that in hi8 Idgment it was no more than a cloud, wljich, as the in rose, would dissipate and vanish. Being, how- rer, determined to leave no subject for disputation [hich experiment could remove, he ordered the ship steer iu the direction which the supposed country fas said to bear. Having gone in this direction [^ht-and-twenty miles without discovering any signs land, the Endeavour resumed her intended course the southward, it being the particular view of the lutenant to ascertain whether Poenammoo, was an iland or a continent. In passing some rocks on the 9th of March in the Ight, it appeared in the morning that the ship had ien in the most imminent danger. Her escape was ideed critical iu tlie highest degree. To these rocks lerefore, which, from their situation, are so well lapted to catch unwary strangers, Mr. Cook gave |ie name of the Traps. On the same day he reached point of land which he called the South Cape, and [hich he supposed, as proved in fact to be the case, le southern extremity of the country. In sailing on Wednesday the 14th, the Endeavour issed a small narrow opening in the land, where lere seemed to be a very safe and convenient har- ►ur, formed by an island, which lay en,stward in tlie liddle of the opening. On the land, behind the lening, are mountains, the summits of which were ►vered with snow that appeared to have recently dlen. Indeed our voyagers, for two days past, had >und the weather extremely cold. On each side the itrance of the opening, tlie land rises almost per- mdicnlarly from the sea to a stupendous height. for this reason Lieutenant Cook did not choose to irry the ship hito the harbour. He was sensible lat no wind could blow there but right in or right It ; and he did not think it by any means advisable put into a place whence he could not have got out; 70 CAPTAIN COOK 8 but with a wind which, experience had taught him, did not blow more than one day in a month. Saga- cious as this detevmination of our coininander was, it did not give universal satisfaction. He acted in it contrary to the opinion of some persons on board, who expressed in strong terras their desire of coming to harbour, not sufficiently considering that present convenience ought not to be purchased at the expense of incurring great future disadvantages. By tlie 27th of March, Mr. Cook had circumnavi- gated the whole country of Tovy-Poenamraoo, and arrived within siglit ot tlie island formerly men- tioned, which lies at the distance of nine leagues from the entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Having at this time thirty tons of empty water-casks on board, it was necessary to fill them before he finally proceeded on his voyage. For this purpose he hauled .ound the island, and entered a bay situated between that and Queen Cliarlotte's Sound, and to which the uame was given of Admiralty Bay. The business of wooding and watering being com- pleted on the 30th, and the ship ready for sea, the Coint now to be determined was, what route should e pursued in returning home, tliat would be of most advantage to the public service. Upon this subject the lieutenant thought proper to take the opinion of iiis officers. He had himself a strong desire to return by Cape Horn, because that would have enabled him to determine whether there is or is not a southern continent. But against this scheme it was a suffi- cient objection that our navigators must have kept in a high southern latitude in the very depth of winter, and in a vessel which was not thou«^ht to be in a condition fit for the undertaking. Tiie same reason was urged with still greater force against the! proceeding directly for the Cape of Good Hope, be- cause no discovery of moment could be expected in that route. It was therefore resolved that they siioiild return by the East Indies : and that, with Um 4 r *< FIRST VOYAGE. 71 view, they should steer westward, till they bhoiild tall in with the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the northward, till they should arrive at its northern extremity. If that should be found impracticable, it was further resolved that they should endeavour to fall in with the land or islands said to have been discovered by Quiros. In the six months which Lieutenant Cook had spent in the examination oi' New Zealand, he made very large additions to the knowledge of geography and navigation. That country was first discovered in the year 1C42, by Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutch navi- gator. He traversed the eastern coast from latitude 34 deg. 43 min., and entered the strait now called Cook's Strait; but being attacked by the natives, soon after he came to an anchor, in the place which he named Murderer's Bay, he never went on shore. Nevertheless he assumed a kind of claim to the coun- try, by calling it Staten Land, or the Land of the States, in honour of the States-General. It is now usually distinguished in maps and charts by the name of New Zealand. The whole of the country, ex- cepting that part of the coast which was seen by Tasman from on board his ship, continued from his time to the voyage of the Endeavour, altogether un- known. By many persons it has been supposed to constitute a part of tiie southern continent ; but it was now ascertained by Mr. Cook to consist of two large islands, divided from each otlier by a strait or passage wliich is about four or five leagues broad. These islands are situated between the latitudes of 34 deg. and 48 deg. south, and between the longi- tudes of 181 deg. and 194 deg. west, a matter which Mr. Green determined with uncommon exactness, from innumerable observations of the sun and moon, and one of the transits of Mercury. The northern- most of these islands is called by the natives Eahei- nomauwe and the southernmost Tovv. or Tavai 'if i > •V (Aas, Tj 72 CAPTAIN CCOK*S Poenammoo. It is not, however, certain whether the whole southern island, or only part of it, be com- prehended under the latter name. Tovy Poenammoo is principally a mountainous and to all appearance a barren country. The only inha- bitants, and signs of inhabitants, that were discovered upon all the islands, were the people whom our voy- agers saw in Queen Charlotte's Sound, some that came off to them under the snowy mountains, and several fires which were discerned to the west of Cape Saunders. Eaheinomauwe has a much better ap- pearance. Though it is not only hilly but mountain- ous, even the hills and mountains are covered with wood, and every valley has a rivulet of water. The soli in these valleys, and in the plains, many of which are not overgrown with wood, is in general light, but fertile. It was the opinion of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, as well as of the other gentlemen on board, that all kinds of European grain, plants, and fruit, would flourish here in the utmost luxuriance. There is reason to conclude, from the vegetables which our navigators found in Eaheinomauwe, that the winters are milder than those in England ; and the summer was experienced not to be hotter, though it was more equally warm. If this country, therefore, should be settled by people from Europe, they might, with a little industry, very soon be supplied, in great abun- dance, not merely with the necessaries, but even with the luxuries of life. In Eaheinomauwe there are no quadrupeds but dogs and rats — at least no other were seen by our voyagers; and the rats are so scarce, that they wholly escaped the notice of many on board. Of birds the species are not numerous ; and of these no one kind, excepting perhaps the gannet, is exactly the same with those of Europe. Insects are not in greater plenty than birds. The sea makes abundant recompense for this scarcity of animals upon the land« Every creek swarms with fish, which are not ori^' i I • « PlllST VOYAGE. 7;^ rht, ind »ecotii- 0U9 and |/ inha- lovered iir voy- [6 that ns, and »fCape ter ap- untain- Bd with p. The f which but Dr. I board, d fruit, . There jich our winters mramer as more ould be with a t abun- m with ds bift )y our t they d. Of lese no Bxactly not in undant le land. )t oniy vho\esome, but equally delicious with tho^e in our part of tiie world. Tlie Endeavour seldom anchored m any station^ or with a light gale passed any place, that did not afTord enough, with hook and line, to serve the whole ship's company. If the seine was made use of, it seldom failed of producing a still more ample supply. The highest luxury of this kind, with which the lilnglish were gratified, was the lob- ster, or sea cray tisTi. Among the vegetable produc- tions of the country, the trees claim a principal place ; there being forests of vast exte!»t, full of the straight- est, the cleanest, and the largest timber Mr. Cook and his friends had ever seen. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were gratified by the novelty, if not by the variety of the plants. Out of about four hundred species, there were not many wliich had hitherto been described by botanists. There is one plant that serves the natives instead of hemp and flax, and which excels all that are applied to the same pur- poses in other countries. If the settling of New Zealand should ever be deemed an object deserving the attention of Great Britain, our commander thought that the best place for establishing a colony would either be on the banks of the Thames, or in the Territory adjoining to Hit Bay of Islands. Each of these places pos- sesses the advantage of an excellent harbour. By means of the river, settlements might be extended, and a communication established with the inland parts of the countr, Vess«'ls might likewise be built of the fine timbe; which is every where to be met with, at very little trouble and expense. But I am in danger of forgetting myself, and of running into a detail which may l^ thought rather to exceed the intention of the present narrative. It is difficult to restrain the pen when such a variety of curious and entertaniing matter lies before it, and 1 must entreat the indulgence of my readers while I mention two or three further particulars. One cir- ^> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 7 A 1.0 I.I l^|2£ 12.5 ■^ 1^ 12.2 L25 III 1.4 2.0 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREIT WIBSKR.N.Y. I45S0 716)872-4503 .^ * . 74 CAPTAIN cook's ciimstance peculiarly worthy of notice is the perfect and uninterrupted healtli of the inhabitants of New Zealand. In all the visits made to their towns, where old and young, men and women, crowdea about our voyagers, they never observed a single peraon who appeared to have any bodily complaint ; nor among the numbers that were seen naked, was once perceived the slightest eruption upon the skin^ or the least mark which indicated tliat such an eruption had formerly existed. Another proof of the ht ith of these people is the facility with which the wounds they at any time receive are healed. In the man who had been shot with a musket- ball through the fleshy part of his arm, the wound seemed to be so well digested, and in so fair a way of being perfectly healed, that if Mr. Cook had not known that no ap- plication had been made to it, he declared that ue should certainly have inquired, with a very interested curiosity, after the vulnerary lierbs, and surgical art of the country. An additional evidence of human nature's being untainted with disease in New Zealand is the great number of old men with whom it abounds. Many of them, by the loss of their hair and teeth, appeared to be very ancient, and yet none of them were decrepid. Although they were not equal to the young in muscular strength, they did not come in the least behind them with regard to cheerfulness and vivacity. Water, as far as our navigators could -; discover, is the universal and only liquor of the New Zealanders. It is greatly to be wished that their happiness in this respect may never be destroyed by such a connexion with the European nations, as shall introduce that fondness for spirituous liquors which has been so fatal to the Indians of North America. From the observations which Lieut. Cook and his friends made on the people of New Zealand, and fromi the similitude which was discerned between theoi ' and the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, a strong u proof arose, that both of them had one commoaU FIRST VOYAOB. 75 origin ; and this proof was rendered inoubitable by the conformity of their language. When Tupia ad- dressed himself to the natives cf Eaheinomauwe ana PoenammoOy he was perfectly understood. Indeed it did not appear that the language of Otaheite dif- fered more from that ot New Zealand than the lan- guage of the two Islands into which it Is divided did irom each other. Hitherto the navigation of Lieut. Cook had been unfavourable to the notion of a southern continent, having swept away at least three-fourths of the posi- tions upon which that notion had been founded. The track of the Endeavour had demonstrated that the land seen by Tasman, Juan Fernandez, Hermite, the commander of a Dutch squadron, Quiros, and Rogser wein, was not, as they had supposed, part of such a continent. It had also totally destroyed the theore- tical arguments in favour of a southern continent, which had been drawn from the necessity of it to I preserve an equilibrium between the two hemispheres. I As, however, Mr. Cook's discoveries, so far as lie had already proceeded, extended only to the northward of forty degrees south latitude, he could not, there- [fore give an opinion concerning what land might lie further to the southward. This was a matter, there- fore, which he earnestly wished to be examined; and [to him was at length reserved the honour, as we [shall hereafter see, of putting a final end to the [question. On Saturday the 31st of March, our commander [sailed from Cape Farewell in New Zealand, and pur- sued his voyage to the westward. New Holland, or, as it is now called. New South Wales, came in sight I on the 11th of April ; and on the 27th of that month the ship anchored in Botany Bay. On the preceding day, in consequence of its falling calm when the vessd was not more than a mile and a half from the shore, und within some breakers, our navigators had been in a very disagreeable situation ; but happily a light 7tt CAPTAIN COOK'B breeze had sprung up from the land, and carried them out of danger. In the afternoon the boats were manned ; and Lieut. Cook and his friends, haying Tupia of their party, set out from the Endeavour. They intended to land where they had seen some Indians, and began to hope that as these Indians had paid no regard to the ship when she came into the bay, they would be as inattentive to the advances of the English towards the shore. In this, however, the gentlemen were disappointed; for as soon as they approached the rocks, two of the men came down upon them to dis- pute their landing, and the rest ran away. These champions, who were armed with lances about ten feet long, called to our navigators in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dissonant language, of which even Tupia did not understand a single word. At the same time they brandished their weapons, and seemed resolved to defend their coast to the utmost, though they were but two to forty. The lieutenant, who could not but admire their courage, and who was unwilling that hostilities should commence with such inequality of force on our side, ordered his boat to lie upon their oars. He and the other gen- tlemen then parlied with them by signs; and, to obtain their good-will, he threw them nails, beads, and several trifles besides, with which they appeared to be well pleased. After this our commander en- deavoured to make them understand that he wanted water, and attempted to convince them, by all the methods in his power, that he had no injurious de- sign against them. Being willing to interpret the waving of their hands as an invitation to proceed; the boat put into the shore ; but no sooner was this perceived, than it was opposed by the two Indians, one of whom seemed to be a youth about nineteen or twenty years old, and the other a man of middle age. The only resource now left for Mr. Cook was to fire a musket between them, which being done, the I FIRST VOYAGB. 7? youngest of them broug^ht a bundle of lances on the rock, but recollecting himself in an inntant, he snatched them up again in great haste. A stone was then thrown at the English, upon which the lieutenant ordered a musket to be fired with small dhot. Tliis struck the eldest upon the less, and he immediately run to one of the houses, which was at about an hun- dred yards distance. Mr. Cook, who now hoped that the contest was over, instantly landed with his party ; but they had scarcely quitted the boat when tlte Indian returned, having only left the rock to fetch a shield or target for his defence. As soon as lie came up, he and his comrade threw eacli of them a lance in the midst of our people, but happily with- out hurting a single person. At the firing ot a third musket, one of the two men darted another lance, and then both of them ran away. After this tha gentlemen repaired to the huts, and threw into the iiouse where the children were, some beads, ribands, {)ieces of cloth, and other presents. These they ioped would procure them the good-will of the inha- bitants. When, however, the lieutenant and his companions returned the next day, they had the iiiortificatiou of finding tliat the beads and ribands wiiich they had left the night before, had not been removed from their places, and that not an Indian was to be seen. Several of the natives of the country came in sight on the 30th, but they could not be engaged to begin an intercourse witli our people. Tliey approached within a certain distance of them, and after shouting several times, went back into the woods. Having done this once more, Mr. Cook followed them him- self, alone and unarmed, a considerable way along the shore, but without prevailing upon them to stop. On the 1st of May he resolved to make an excur- sion into the country. Accordingly our commander, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and seven others, fdl of them properly accoutred for the expedition, set u«t, 78 CAPTAIN cook's and repaired first to the huts near the watering- place, whither some of the Indians continued every day to resort. Though the little presents which had been left there before had not yet been taken away, our gentlemen added others of still greater value, consisting of cloth, bf'ads, combs, and looking-glasses. In cultivating the ground, there would be no ob> struction from the trees, which are tall, straight, and without underwood, and stand a sufficient distance from each other. Between the trees, the land is abundantly covered with grass. Our voyagers saw many houses of the inhabitants, but met with only one of the people, who ran away as soon as he disco- vered the English. At every place where they went they left presents, hoping that at length they might procure the confidence and good-will of the Indians. They perceived some traces of animals; and the trees over their heads abounded with birds of various kinds, among which were many of exquisite beauty. Loriquets and cockatoos, in particular, were so nu- merous, that they flew in flocks of several scores together. While the lieutenant and his friends were upon ihis excursion, Mr. Gore, who had been sent out in the morning to dredge for oysters, having performed that service, dismissed his boat, and taking a mid- shipman with him, set out to join the waterers by land. In his way he fell in with a bodyof two-and- twenty Indians, who followed him, and were often at no greater distance than that of twenty yards. When he perceived them so near, he stopped, and faced about, upon which they likewise stopped ; and when he went on again, they continued their pursuit. But though they were all armed with lances, they did not attack Mr. Gore ; so that he and the mid- shipman got in safety to the watering-place. When the natives came In sight of the main body of the English, they halted at about the distance of a auafter of a mile, and stood still. By this Mr. Monkhonsr ^nww^^wn iflHST VOXAOB. 70 and two or three of the waterers were enconrugcd to Tiarch up to them ; but seeing the Indians keep their ground , they were seized with a sudden fear, which is not uncommon to the rash and fool-hardy, and made a hasty retreat. This step increased the danger which it was intended to avoid. Four of the Indians immediateW ran forward, and discharged their lances at the fugitives with such force that they went beyond them. Our people, recovering their [spirits, stopped to collect the lances, upon which the [natives, in their turn, began to retfire. At this time Tr. Cook came up, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, ind Tupia ; and being desirous of convincing the Indians that they were neither afraid of them, nor lesigned to do them any injury, they advanced to- N^ards them, endeavouring by signs ot expostulation ^nd entreaty, to engage them to an intercourse, but rithout eifect. From the boldness which the natives discovered In the first landing of our voyagers, and the terror liat afterwards seized them at the sight of the £n- |lish, it appears that they were sufficiently intimi- [ated by our fire arms. There was not, indeed, the 2ast reason to believe that any of them had been luch hurt by the small shot which had been fired them when they attacked our people on their >ming out of the boat. Nevertheless they had pro- ibly seen, from their lurking places, the enects [hich the muskets had upon birds. Tupia, who was 3come a good marksman, friequently L^trayed abroad shoot parrots ; and while he was thus employed, i once met with nine Indians, who, as soon as they ^rceived tliat he saw them, ran from him in great larm and confusion. While, on the 3d of May, Mr. Banks was gathering lants, near the watering-place, Lieut. Cook went rith Br. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse to the head the bay, for the purpose ot examining that part o* 16 country, and of^making further attempts to form CO OAPTAI^ COO&*8 some connexions with tlie natives. In this excureioh they acqaired additional knowledge conceniing the nature of the soil, and its capacities for cultivation, but had no success in their endeavours to engaf^e the inhabitants in coming to a friendlv intercourse. Several parties that weiie sent into the country on the next day, with the same view, were equally un- successful. Among the articles of fish which at different times were caught, were large sting-rays, One of them, when his entrails were taken out, weighed three hundred and thirty-six pounds. It was upon account of tlie great quantity of plants which Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander collected in this place, that Lieut. Cook was induced to give it the name of Botany Bav. It is situated in the latitude of 34 deg. south, and in the longitude of 208 deg. 37 min. west ; and affords a capacious, safe, and con- venient shelter for shipping. The Endeavour an- ciiored near the south shore, about a mile within the entrance, for the convenience of sailing with a south- erly wind, and because the lieutenant thought it the best situation for watering. But afterwards he found a very fine stream on tlie nortli shore, where was a sandy cove, in which a ship might lie almost land- locked, and procure wood and water in tlie greatest abundance. Though wood is every where plentiful, our commander only saw two species of it that could be considered as timber. Not only the iniiabitants who were first discovered, but all who afterwards came in sight, were entirely naked. Of their mode of life our voyagers could know but littfe, as not the least connexion could ' -^ formed with them; but it did not appear that they were numerous, or that they lived in societies. Tliey seemed like other ani- mals, to be scattered about along the coast, and in tlie woods. Not a single article was touched by them of all that were left at their huts, or at the places wiuire tliey frequented ; so little sense had they oi those smiill coaveniences and ornaments which are rlRST \OTAtfB. SI . lerally very alluring to the uncivilized tribes of le globe. During Mr. Cook's stay in this place, lio lused the English colours to be displayed every day I shore, and took care that the ship's name, and the ite of the year, should be inscribed upon one of the ees near the watering place. At day-break, on Sunday the 6th of May, onr ivigutors sailed from Botany Bay ; and as they roceeded on their voyage, the lieutenant gave the imes that are indicated upon the map to the bays, ipcs, points, and remarkable hills which successively >peared in sight. On the 14th, as the Endeavour Ivanced to the northward, being then in latitude ) deg. 22 rain, south, and longitude 206 deg. 39 min. ^est, tlie land gradually increased in height, so that may be called a hilly country. On the next day, le vessel being about a league from the shore, our Dyagers discovered smoke in many places; and iaving recourse to their glasses, they saw about jwenty of the natives, who had each of the;a a large [undle upon his buck. The bundles our people con- sctured to be palm leaves for covering the houses of be Indians, and continued to observe them above an ^our, during which they walked upon the beach, and ^p a path that led over a hill of gentle ascent. It >as remarkable that not one of them was seen to top and look towards the Endeavour. They marched Uong without the least apparent emotion either of Curiosity or surprise, though it was impossible that lliey should not have discerned the ship by some lusual glance as they went along the shore, and [hough she must have been the most stupendous and maccountable object they had ever beheld. While, on the 17th, our navigators were in a bay ) which Lieut. Cook had given the name of More- ^on's Bay, and at a place where tlie land was not at that time visible, some on board, havhig observed ihat the s^ja looked paler than usual, were of ojiinion bat the bottom of the bay opened into a river. The 20 Q H' W CAPTAIN COOK a liiniteiiont was sensible that there was no real ground for this supposition. As the Endeavour had here thirty-four lathom water, and a fine sandy bottom, these circumstances alone were sufficient to produce the change which had been noticed in the colour o^ the sea. Nor was it by any means necessary to snp-p pose a river, in order to account for the land at the iM>ttom of the bay not being visible. If the land there was as low as it had been experienced to be in a hundred other parts of the coast, it would be impos- sible to see it from the station of the ship. Our commander would, however, have brought the matter to the test of experiment, if the wind had been favourable to such a purpose. Should any future ■navigator be disposed to determine the question whe- ther there is or is not a river in this place, Mr. Coolc has taken care to leave the best directions for finding As situation. On the 22nd, as our voya^irers were pursuing their fourse from Harvey's Bay, they discovered with their glasses, that the land was covered with palm-nnt trees, which they had not seen from the time of their leaving the islands within the tropic. They saw also two men walking along the shore, who paid them as little attention as they had met with on former occasions. At eight o'clock in the evening of this day, the ship came to an anchor in five fathoms, with a fine sandy bottom. Early in the morning of the next day, the lieutenant, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen, 1'upia, and a party of men, went on shore in order to exa- mine the country. The wind blew fresh, and the weather was so cold, that, being at a considerable distance from land, they took their cloaks as a ne- cessarv equipment for the voyage. When they landed, they found a channel leading into a large lagoon. Both the channel and the lagoon were ex^ Biiiined by our commander with his usual accuracy. There is in Uie place a small river of fresh water, and FIRST TOYAOB. 89 [uom for a few ships to lie in great security Near he lagoon grows the true mangrove, such as exists 11 the West India islands, and the first of the kind lat had yet been met with by our navigators. iraong the shoals and sand-banks of the coast they iw many larse birds, and some in particular of the ime kind which they had seen m Botany Bay. hese they judged to be pelicans ; but they were so hy as never to come within reach of a musket. On he shore was found a species of the bustard, one of rhicli was shot was equal in size to a turkey, weigh* )g seventeen pounds and a half. All the gentlemen freed that this was the best bird they had eaten [nee they had left England, and in honour of it they illed the inlet Bustard Bay. Upon the mud banks, id under the mangroves, were innumerable oysters ' various kinds, and among others the hammer- rster, with a large proportion of small pearl oysters. ' in deeper water there should be equal plenty of ich oysters at their full growth, Mr. Cook was of linion that a pearl fishery might be established ire to very great advantage. The people who wereleft on board the ship asserted, lat, while the gentlemen were in the woods, about |venty of the natives came down to the beach. ireast of the Endeavour, and, after havinpr looked . her for some time, went away. Not a single In- ^an was seen by the gentlemen themselves, thoush ley found various proofs, in smoke, fires, and the Eigments of recent meals, that the country was in- ibited. The place seemed to be much trodden, and it not a house, or the remains of a house, could be iscerned. Hence the lieutenant and his friends fere disposed to believe that the people were desti- iite of dwellings, as well as of clothes ; and that, |ke the other commoners of nature, they spent their lights in the open air. Tupia himself was struck fith their apparently unhappy condition; and, 'laking his head with an air ot superiority and com- 1 T St CAPTAIN COOK 9 liassion, said that they nvere **taata enosy^ poot wretches. On the 25th, our voyagers, at the distance of one jnile from the land, were abreast of a point which Mr. Coolc found to lie directly under the tropic of Capricorn; and for this reason he called it Cape Capricorn. In the night of the next day. when tne ship had anchored at a place which was distant four leagues from Cape Capricorn, the tide rose and fell near seven feet ', and the flood set to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward. This circumstance was just the reverse of what had been experienced when the Endeavour was ai anchor to the eastward of Bustard Bay. While our people were under sail on the 26tlK and were surrounded with islands which lay at difierent distances from the main land, they suduenly fell Into tliree fathoms of water. Upon this the lieutenant anchored, and sent away the master to sound the cliannel which lay between tlie northernmost island and the main. Though the channel appeared to have a considerable breadth, our commander suspected it to be shallow, and such was in fact the case. The master reported, at his return, that he had only two futhoms and a half in many places ; and whore the vessel lay at anchor, she had only sixteen feet, which was not two feet more than she drew. Mr. Banks, who, while the master was sounding the channel, tried to fish from the cabin window with hook and line, was successful in catching two sorts of crabs, both of them such as our navigators had not seen before. One of them was adorned with a most beau- tiful blue, in every respect equal to the ultra-marine. With this blue all his claws and joints were deeply tinged : while the under part of him was white, and so exquisitely polished, that in colour and brightness, ^ it bore an exact resemblance to tiie white of old china. The other crab was also marked, thougli iomewhat more sparingly, with the ultra-marine oo PTR9T VOYAOB. 85 enos, pool Is joints and liis toes : and on his bade were three rown spots of a singt lar appearance. Early the next morning, Lieut. Cook having found he passage between the islands, sailed to the north* ^ard, and, on the evening of the succeeding day, nchored at about two miles distance from the main t this time a great number of islands, lying a long ay without the ship, were in sight. On the 29th, he lieutenant sent away the master with two boats, sound tiie entrance of an inlet which lay to the est, and into which he intended to go with the essel, that he might wait a few days for the moon's crease, and have an opportunity of examining the ountry. As the tide was observed to ebb au<^ flow onsiderably, when the Endeavour had anchored ithin the inlet, our commander judged it to be a iver that might run pretty far up into land. Think- g that this might afford a commodious situation r laying the ship ashore and cleaning her bottom, ided with the master, in search of a proper lace for the purpose. He was accompanied in the ixcursion by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and hey found walking exceedingly troublesome, in onsequence of the ground being covered with a kind f grass, the seeds of whicli were very sharp and earded. Whenever these seeds stuck into their lothes, which happened at every step, they worked brward by means of the beard till they got at the lesh. Another disagreeable circumstance was, that he gentlemen were incessantly tormented with the tings of a cloud of musquitos. They soon met with levcral places where the ship might be conveniently aid ashore, but were much disappointed in not being ible to find any fresh water. In proceeding up the ountry they found gum trees, the gum upon which ixisted only in very small quantities. Gum trees of I similar kind, and as little productive, had occurred n other parts of the coast of New South Wales. "pon the branches of the trees were ants' nests I'' II m CAPTAIN cook's made of clay, as big as a bushel. The ants them- selves by which the nests were inhabited, we^3 small, and their bodies white. Upon another species of the gum tree was found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, and having worked out the pith, occupied the pipe in which it had been con- tained. Notwithstanding this, the parts in which these insects, to an amazing number, had formed a lodgment, bore leaves a^d flowers, and appeared to be entirely in a flourishmg state. Butterflies were found hi such multitudes, that the account of them Beems almost to be incredible. The air was so crowded with them for the space of three or four acres, that millions might be seen in every direction; and the branches and twigs of the trees were at the same time covered witli others that were not upon tlie wing. A small fish of a singular kiud was likewise met with in this place. Its size was about that of a minnow, and it had two very strong breast-fins. It was found in places which were quite dry, and where it might be supposed that it had been left by the tide ; and yet it did not appear to have become lan- guid from that circumstance ; for when it was ap- proached, it leaped away as nimbly as a frog. In- deed it did not seem to prefer water to land. Though the curiosity of Mr. Cook and his friends was gratified by the sight of these various objects, they were disappointed in the attainment of theif main purpose, the discovery of fresh water ; and a second excursion which was made by them on the afternoon of the same day was equallv unsuccessful. The failure of the lieutenant's hopes determined him to make but a short stay in the place. Having, how- ever, observed from an eminence, that the inlet pene- trated a considerable way into the country, he formed a resolution of trachig it in the morning. Accord- ingly, at sun-rise, on Wednesday, the ^th of May. he went on shore, and took a view of the coast, and the islands tliat lie ofi' it, with their bearings. For FIRST YOYAOB. 87 tills purpose he had with him an azimuth compass ; but he lound that the needle differed very consider- ably in its {)osition, even to thirty degrees, the varia- tions being in some {)laces more, in other places less. Once the needle varied from itself no less than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. Mr. Cook having taken up some of the loose stones which lay upon the ground, applied them to the needle, but they produced no effect ; whence he concluded that in the hills there was iron ore, traces of which he had remarked both here and in the neighbouring parts. After he had made his observations upon the hill, he proceeded with Dr. Solander up the inlet. He set out with the first of the flood, and had ad- vanced about eight leagues before it was high water. The breadth of the inlet, thus far, was from two to five miles, upon a direction south-west by south : but here it opened every way, and formed a large lakej which to the north-west communicated with the sea. Our commander not only saw the sea in this direction, but found the tide of flood coming strongly in from that point. He observed also an arm of this lake extending to the eastward. Hence he thought it not improbable, that it might commuidcate with the sea in the bottom of the bay, which lies to the westward of the Cape that on the chart is designated by the name of Cfape Townshend. On the south side of the lake is a ridge of hills, which the lieutenant was desirous of climbing. As, however, it was high water, and the day was far spcmt, and as the weather, in particular, was dark and rainy, he was afraid of being bewildered among the sIiouJ ) in the night, and there- fore was obliged to give up his inclination, and to make the best of his way to the ship. Two people only were seen by him, who followed the boat along the shore a good way at some distance; but he could not prudently wait for them, as the tide ran strongly in his favour. Several fires in one direction, and smoke in another, exhibited further CAPTAIN COOK'S {proofs of the country being in a certain degree nhabited. ^* While Mr. Coolc, with Dr. Solander, was tracing the inlety Mr. Banks and a party with him engaged in a separate excursion, in which they had not pro- ceeded far within land before their course was ob- Btructed by a swamp covered with mangroves. This, however, they determined to pass ; and having done it with great difficult^', they came up to a place where there had been iour small fires, near to which lay 0ome shells, and bones of fish that had been roasted. Heaps of grass were also found lying Together, on which four or five people appeared to have slept. Mr. Gore, in another place, observed the track of a large animal. Some bustards were like- wise seen, but not any other bird, except a few beau- tiful loriquets, of the same kinr' with those which had been noticed in Botany Bay. The country in general in this part of New South Wales appeared sandy and barren, and destitute of accommoaations which could fit it for being possessed by settled in- habitants. From the ill success that attended the searching for fresh water. Lieutenant Cook called the inlet in which the ship lay. Thirsty Sound. No re- freshment of any other sort was here procured by our voyagers. Our. commander, not having a single inducement to stay longer in this place, weighed anchor in the morning of the 31st, and put to sea. In the prose- cution of the voyage, when the Endeavour was close under Cape Upstart, the variation of the needle at sunset on the 4th of June was deg. east, and at sun-rise the next day it was no more than 5 degrees 95 min. Hence the lieutenant concluded that it had been influenced by iron ore, or by some other mag- netical matter contained under the surface of the earth. In the afternoon of the 7th, our navigators •aw u^on one of the islands what had the appear- ance ot cocoa-nut trees ; and as a few nuts would at VIRST VOYAGE. m ^his time have been very acceptable, Mr. Cook sent iieutcnant Hicks ashore, to see if he could procure my refreshment. He "was accompanied by Mr. )anks and Dr. Solander; and in the evening the ;entlemen returned with an account that what had )een taken for cocoa-nut trees were a small kind of !abbage-paha, and that, excepting about fourteen or Ifteen plants, nothing could be obtained which was ^orth bringing away. On' the 8tli, when the Endea- vour was in the midst of a cluster of small islands, pur voyagers discerned with their glasses, about uiirty of the natives, men, women, and children, all Standing together, and looking with great attentioc It the ship. This was the first instance of curiosity ihat had been observed among the people of the jountry. The present Indian spectators were entirely laked. Their hair was short, and their complexion ^he same with that of such of the inhabitants as had ien seen before. In navigating the coact of New South Wales, ^here the sea in all parts conceals shoals which sud- lenly project from the sliore, and rocks that rise ibruptly like a pyramid from the bottom, our com- landcr had hitherto conducted his vessel in safety [or an extent of two-and-twenty degrees of latitude, Seing more than one thousand three hundred miles. ~iut, on the 10th of June, as he was pursuing his Bourse from a bay to which he had given the name of Frinity Bay, the Endeavour fell into a situation as jritical and dangerous as any that is recorded in the listory of navigation— a history which abounds with )erilous adventures, and almost miraculous escapes, ^ur voyagers were now near the latitude assigned to the islands that were discovered by Quiros, and ^hich, without sufficient reason, some geographers lave thought proper to join to this land. The ship lad the advantage of a fine breeze and a clear moon- light niffht ; and in standing off from six till near ' le o'clock, she had deepened her water from four- ^ CAPTAIN cook's teen to twenty-one fathoms. But while our navigai^ tors were at supper, it suddenly shoaled, and they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathoms, within the compass of a few minutes. Mr. Cook immediately ordered every man to his station, and all was ready to put about, and come to an anchor; when deep water being met with again at the next cast of the lead, it was concluded th^t the vessel had gone over the tail of the shoals which had been seen at sun-set^ and that the danger was now over. This idea ol security was confirmed by the water continuing to deepen to twenty and twenty-one fathoms, so that the gentlemen left the deck in great tranquillity, and went to bed. However, a little before eleven, the water shoaled at once from twenty to seventeen fathoms ; and before the lead could be cast again, the ship struck, and remained immoveable, except- hig so far as she was influenced by the heaving of the surge, which .beat her against the crags of the rock upon which she lay. A few moments brought every person upon deck, with countenances suiteato tlie horrors of the situation. As our people knew, from the breeze which they had in the evening, that they could not be very near the shore, there was too much reason to conclude that they were upon a rock of coral, which, on account of the sharpness of its points, and the roughness of its surface, is more fatal than any other. On examining tlie depth of water round the ship, it was speedily discovered that the misfortune of our voyagers was equal to their appre- hensions. The vessel had been lilted over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it, in some places of which hollow there were from three to four fathoms, and in others not so many feet of water. To complete the scene of distress, it appeared from the light of the moon that the slieathing boards from the bottom of the ship were floating away all around her, and at last her false keel ; so that every moment was making way for the whole company's being swai- FIRST VOYAGT. m ims, so that >wed up by the ruehing in of the sea. There was owno chance but to lig^hten her, and the opportunity liad unhappily been lost of doin^ it to the best ad* ianta^e ; for, as the Endeavour had gone ashore just kt high water, and by this time it had considerably iillen, she would when lightened, be but in the same ituation as at first. The only alleviation of this cir* imstance was, that as the tide ebbed the vessel set- led to the rocks, and was not beaten against them nth so much violence. Our people had indeed some [ope from the next tide, though it was doubtful whe- ler the ship would hold together so long, especially the rock kept grating part of her bottom with ich force as to be heard in the fore store-room. No fort, however, was remitted from despair of success. |hat no time might be lost, the water was immedi* [tely started in the hold, and pumped up ; six guns iing all that were upon the deck, a quantity of irou id stone ballast, casks, hoop-staves, oil jars, decayed tores, and a variety of things besides, were thrown rerboard with the utmost expedition. Bvery one [erted himself not only without murmuring and jiscontent, but even with an alacrity which almost iproached to cheerfulness. So sensible, at the same ime, were the men of the awfulness of their situa- fon, that not an oath was heard amongst them, the ^testable habit of profane swearing being instantly ibdued by the dread of incurring guilt when a jeedy death was in view. While Lieutenant Cook and all the people about \m were thus employed, the opening of the morning the 11th of June presented them with a fuller |ro8T»f:ct of their danger. The land was seen by them It auout eight leagues distance, without any island the intermediate space, upon which, if the ship ^ad gone to pieces, they might have been sent on lore by the boats, and carried thence by different irns to the main. Gradually, however, the wind id away, and early in the forenoon it became a M i !fm 98 CAPTAIN COOK S dead calm — a circumstance this, pecnliarly happy in the order of Divine Providence : for, if it nad hlown hard the vessel must inevitably have been destroyed. High water being expected at eleven in the morning, and every thing being made ready to heave her off, if she could float, to the inexpressible surprise and concern of our navigators, so much did the day-tide fall short of that of the night, that though they had lightened the ship nearly fifty tons, she did not float by a foot and a half. Hence it became necessary to lighten her still more, and every thing was thrown overboard that could possibly be spared. Hitherto the Endeavour had not admitted much water; but as the tide fell, it rushed in so fast, that she could scarcely be kept free, though two pumps were incessantly worked. There were now no hopes but from the tide at midnight, to prepare for taking the advantage of which the most vigorous efforts were exerted. About five o'clock in the after- noon the tide began to rise ; but at the same time, the leak increased to a most alarming degree. Two more pumps, therefore, were manned, one of which unhappily, would not work. Three pumps, however, were kept going, and at nine o'clock the ship righted. Nevertheless, the leak had gained so considerably upon her, that it was imagined she must go to the bottom as soon as she ceased to be supported by the rock. It was, indeed, a dreadful circumstance to our commander and his people, that they were obliged to anticipate the floating of the vessel, not as an earnest of their deliverance, but as an event whicli probably would precipitate their destruction. They knew that their boats were not capable of carrying the whole of them on shore, and that when the dread- ful crisis should arrive, all command and subordina- tion being at an end, a contest for preference might be expected, which would increase even the horrore of shipwreck, and turn their rage against each other, Some of them were sensible, that if they should FIHST VOYAOB. 93 p)cape to the main land, they were likely to suffer ^ore, upon the whole, than those who would be left board to perish in the waves. The latter would ily be exposed to instant death ; whereas the for- mer, when they got on shore, would have no lasting : effectual defence against the natives, in a part of le country where even nets and fire-arms could sarcely furnish them with food. But supposing hat they should find the means of subsistence, how )rrible must be their state to be condemned to Ian lish out the remainder of their lives in a desolate filderness, without the possession or hope of domes- Ic comfort ; and to be cut off from all commerce lith mankind, excepting that of the naked savages |ho prowl the desert, and who perhaps are some of most rude and uncivilized inhabitants of the rth! The dreadful moment which was to determine the ite of our voyagers now drew on ; and every one iw, in the countenances of his companions, the ^cture of his own sensations. Not, however, giving ^ay to despair, the lieutenant ordered the capstan 1(1 windlass to be manned with as many hands as >uld be spared from the pumps, and the ship having )ated about twenty minutes after ten o jlock, the Irand effort was made, and she was heaved into deep fater. It was no small consolation to find that she id not now admit of more water than she had done [hen upon the rock. By the gaining, indeed, of the ik upon the pumps, three feet and nine inches of [uter were in the hold ; notwithstanding which, the len did not relinquish their labour. Thus they held l^e water as it were at bay ; but having endured Lcessive fatigue of body, and agitation of mind, for lore than twenty-four hours, and all this being ^tended with little hope of final success, they began length to flag. None of them could work at tlie imp above five or six minutes together, after which, ' ig totally exhausted, they threw themselves down 94 CAJfTAIN COOK'S ;'^-T4 ftftft upon the deck, though a stream of water, between three and four inches deep, was running over it from the pumps. When those who succeeded then^ had worked their time, and in their turn were exhausted, they threw themselves down in the same manner, and the others started up again to renew tlieir labour. While they were thus employed in relieving each other, an accident was very nearly putting an imme« diate end to all their efforts. The planking which lines the ship's bottom is called the ceiling, between which and the outside planking there is a space of about eighteen inches. From this ceiling only, the man who had hitherto attended the well had taken the depth of the water, and had given the measure accordingly. But, upon his being relieved, the person who came in his room reckoned the depth to the out- side planking, which had the appearance of the leak having gahied upon the pumps eighteen inches in a few n)inutes. The mistake, however, was soon detected ; and the accident, which in its commence9> ment was very formidable to them, became, in fact highly advantageous. Such was the joy which every man felt at finding his situation better than his fears had suggested, that it operated with wonderful energy, (tnd seemed to possess him with a strong persuasioD that scarcely any real danger remained. New con- Qdence and new hope inspired fresh vigour ; and the efforts of the men were exerted with so much alacrity and spirit, that before eight o'clock in the morning the pumps had gained considerably upon the leak. All the conversation now turned upon carrying the •hip into some harbour, as a thing not to be doubted ; and as hands could be spared from the pumps, they were employed in getting up the anchors. It Iteing found impossible to save the little bower anchor, it was cut away at a whole cable, and the cable of the stream anchor was lost among the rocks ; but, in the situation of our people, these were t.riflos whieh scarcely attracted tlieir notice. The tore-top mast FIRST VOYAOB, OS was soon commeace? :ir; and the Id fore-yard were now erected, and there being a feeze from the sea, the Endeavour, at eleven o'clock. It once more under sail, and stood for the land. [Notwithstanding these favourable circumstances, tr voyagers were still very far from being in a state I safety. It was not possible long to continue the )our by which the pumps had been made to gain on the leak ; and as the exact place of it could k be discovered, there were no hopes of stopping it jthin. At this crisis, Mr. Monkhouse, one of thol from the surface of the sail. In other parts, water was not sufficiently agitated to wash off [e oakum and the wool. The success of the expe- >nt was answerable to the warmest expectations ; hereby the leak was so far reduced, that, instead gaining upon the three pumps, it was easily kept ider with one. Here was such a new source of ^nfidence and comfort, that our people could scarcely ive expressed more joy if tliey had been already in >rt. It had lately been the utmost object of their ipe to run the ship ashore in some harbour, either an island or the main, and to build a vessel out of 1 96 CAPTAIN OOOK'8 bcr materials, to carry them to the East Indies. Nothin);, however, was now thought of hut to range alon^ tlie coast in search of a convenient place to repair the damage the Endeavour liad sustained, and then to prosecute the voyage upon the same plan as if no impediment had happened. In justice and gra- titude to the ship's companyj and the gentlemen on board, Mr. Cook has recorded, that although in the midst of their distress all of tliem seemed to have a Just sense of their danger, no man gave way to pas- sionate exclamations, or frantic gestures. *< Every one appeared to liave tlie perfect possession of his mind, and every one exerted himself to the utmost, with a quiet and patient perseverance, equally dis- tant from the tumultuous violence of terror, and the gloomy inactivity of despair." Though the lieu^'* nant has said nothing of himself, it was well linown that his own composure, fortitude, and activity were equal to the greatness of the occasion. To complete the history of this wonderful preser- vation, it is necessary to bring forward a circumstance which could not be discovered till the ship was laid down to be repaired. It was then found that one of her holes, which was large enough to have sunk our navigators if they had had eight pun)]>s instead of four, and had been able to keep them incessantly going, was in a great measure filled up by a fragment of the rock upon which the Endeavour had struck. To this singular event, therefore, it was owing, that the water did not pour in with a violence which must speedily have involved the Endeavour and all her company in inevitable destruction. Hitherto none of the names by which our com- mander had distinguished the several parts of the country seen by him, were memorials of distress. But the anxiety and danger which he and his people had now experienced, induced him to call a point in sight, which lay to the northward, Cape Tribulation. The next object after liis event wa« to look out f FIRST YOTAOB. rt lor a harbour, where the defects of the ship might )e repaired, and the vessel put into proper order for [future navi{ribed by the surgeon could not retard its progress. Mr.Qreon, the astronomer, was also upon the decline. These and other circumstances embittered the delay which prevented our commander and his companions from getting on shore. In the morning of the 17th, though the wind was still fresh, the lieutenant ven- tured to weigh, and to put ill for the harbour, the entrance into which was by a ver^ narrow channel. In making the attempt the ship was twice run aj^ound. At the first tune she went off without any trouble, but the second time she stuck fast. Never- theless, by proper exertions, in conjunction with the rising of the tide, she floated about one o'clock in the afternoon, and was soon warped into the harbour. 1'he succeeding? day was employed in erecting two tents, in landing the provisions and stores, and in making every preparation for repairing the damages which the Endeavour had sustained. In the mean while, Mr. Cook, who had ascended one of the highest hills that overlooked the harbour, was by no means entertained with a comfortable prospect, the low land near the river being wholly overrun with mangrovcH. 20 u 08 CAPTAIN cook's among which the salt water flows at every tide, and the high land appearing to he altogether stony and barren. Mr. Banks also toolc a walk up the country, and met witli the frames of several old Indian houses, and places where the natives, though not recently, had oresiied sliell-iish. The boat which had this day been dispatched to haul the seine, witli a view of pro- earing some fishy for the refreshment of the sick, returned without success. Tupia was more fortunate, having employed himself in angling, and living en- tirely upon what he caught, he recovered in a sur- prising degree. Mr. Green, to the regret of his friends, exhibited no symptoms of returning health. On the I9th, Mr. Banks crossed the river, to take a further view of the country, which he found to consist principally of sand-hills. Some Indian houses were seen by him, that appeared to have been very lately inhabited ; and in his walk he met with large flocks of pigeons and crows. The pigeons were ex- ceedingly beautiful. Of these he shot several ; but the crows, which were exactly like those in England, were so shy, that they never came within reach oi bis gun. It was not till the 32d that the tide so far left the Endeavour, as to give our people an opportunity ot examining her leak. In t':.e place where it was foiind , the rocks had made their way through four planks, and even into the timbers. Three more planks were greatly damaged, and there was something very ex- traordinary in the appearance of the breacnes. Not a splinter was to be seen, but all was as smooth as if the whole had been cut away by an instrument. It was a peculiarly happv circumstance that the tim- bers were here very close, since otherwise, the ship could not possibly have been saved. Now also, it was that the fragment of the rock was discovered, which, by sticking in the leak of the vessel, had been such a providential instrument of her preservation. Oo toe same day, nome of the people who had been FIRST YOTAGB. 00 ;Dt to shoot pigeons for the sick, and who had dis- »vcred many Indian houses, ana a floe stream of resh water, reported, at their return, that they had sen an animal as large as a greyhound, of a slender lake, of a mouse colour, and extremely swift. Ast lie lieutenant was walking, on the morning of the Uth, at a little distance from the ship, he had an ipportunity of seeing an animal of the same kind* «rom the description he gave of it, and from an im- perfect view which occurred to Mr. Banks, the lattei gentleman was of opinion that its species was hitherto nknown. The position of the vessel, while she was refitting ^or sea, was very near depriving tlie world of that lotanical knowledge which Mr. Banks had procured It the expense of so much labour and such various irils. For the security of the curious collection of )lants which he had made during the whole voyage, le had removed them into the bread-room. This iroom is in the after part of the ship, the head of [which, for the purpose of repairing her, was laid luch higher than the stem. No one having thought [of the danger to which this circumstance might ex- Ipose the plants, tliey were found to be under water. [However, by the exercise of unremitting attention, the larger part of them was restored to a state of , preservation. Early in the morning of the 2d of July, Lieutenant iCook sent the master out of the harbour, in the pin- nace to sound about the shoals, and to search for a cliannel to the northward. A second attempt which wus made this day to heave off the sliip, was as un- successful as a former one had been. The next day the master returned, and reported that he had found a passage out to sea between the slioals. On one of these shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, many of which were dry at low water, he had landed, and found there cockles of so enormous a size, that a iingle cockle was more than two men could eat. At m CAPTAIN C00K*8 the same place he met with a great variety of oilier shell fish, and brought back with him a plentiful supply for the use of his fellow voyagers. At high- water this day, another effort was made to lloat the ship, which happily succeeded ; but it being found that she had sprung a plank between decks, it became necessary to lay her ashore a second time. The lieutenant, being anxious to attain a perfect knowledge of the state of the vessel, got one of the carpenter's crew, a man in whom he could confide, to dive, on tlie 5th, to her bottom, that he might ex- amine the place where tlie sheathnig had been rubbed off. His report, which was, that three streaks of the sheathing, aboi.t eight feet long, were wanting, and that the main plank had been a little rubbed, was perfectly agreeable to the account that had been given before by the master and others, who had made the same exaMiination : and our commander had the cuiisolatioD ji' finding, that, in the opinion of the car- penter, thid matter would be of littk consequence. Tiic other damage, therefore, being repaired, the ship was again floated at high water, and all hands were employed in taking the stores on board, and in patting her into a condition for proceeding on her voyage. To the harbour in which she was refitted for the sea, Mr. Cook gave the name of the Endea- vour River. On the morning of the 6th, Mr. Banks, accom- panied by Lieut. Gore, and three men, set out in a small boat up the river, with a view of spending a few days in examining the country. In this expe- dition nothing escaped his notice, which related either to the natural history or the inhabitants of the places he visited. Tiiough he met with undoubted proofs that several of the natives were at no great distance, none of them came within sight. Having fuund, upon the whole, that the country did not pro- mise much advantage from a further search, he and his party re-embarked m their boat, and returned, y ! v.; FIRST VOYAOK. 101 the 8th, to the ship. During their excursion, ", had slept on the ground in perfect security, and /itkiout once reflecting upon the danger they would lave incurred, if in that situation they had been dis- >vered by the Indians. Lieut. Coolc had not been satisfied with the account rhlch tlie master had given of his having traced a passage between the shoals into the sea. He sent lim out, therefore, a second time upon the same Misiness; and, on his return, he made a different iport. Having been seven leagues out at sea, the laster was now of opinion that there was no such mssage as he had before imagined. His expedition lowever, though in this respect unsuccessful, was wholly without its advantage. On the very rock ^here he had seen the large cockles, he met with a treat number of turtle; and though he had no better instrument than a boat-hook, three of them were *aught, which together weighed seven hundred and unety-one pounds. An attempt, which by order of the lieutenant, was made next morning to obtain )ome more turtle, failed through the misconduct oi the same officer who had been so fortunate on the )receding day. Hitherto ttie natives of this part of the country Ihad eagerly avoided holding any intercourse with four people ; but at length their minds, through the igood management of Mr. Cook, became more favour- I ably disposed. Four of them having appeared on the 10th, in a small canoe, and seeming to be busily jemployed in striking fish, some of the ship's com- {)any were for going over to them in a boat. This, lowever, the lieutenant would not permit, repeated [experience having convinced him that it was more likely to prevent than to procure an interview. He determined to pursue a contrary method, and try wliat could be done by letting them alone, and not appearing to make them, in the least degree, the objects of his notice. So successful was tliis plan, il : Li- S trl If, I. h ! m si 234572 103 CAPTAIN COOkP that, after some preparatory intercoursA, they came alongside the ship, without expressing any fear or distrust. The conference was carried on by sisrns, with the utmost cordiality, till dinner-time, when, being invited by our people to go with them and par- take of their provision, they declined it, and went away in their canoe. One of these Indians was somewhat above the middle age; the three others were young. Their stature was of the common size, but their limbs were remarkably small. The colour of their skin was a dark chocolate. Their hair was black, but not woolly; and their features ware far from being disagreeable. They had lively eyes, and their teeth were even and white. The tones of thehr voices were soft and musical, and there was a flexi- bility in their organs of speech, which enabled them to repeat with great facility, many of tho words pronounced by the English. On the next morning, our voyagers had another visit from four of the natives. Three of them wore the same who had appeared the day before ; but the fourth was a stranger, to whom his companions gave the name of Yaparicu. He was distinguished by a very peculiar ornament ; this was the bone of a bird, Dearly as thick as a man's finger, and five or six inches long, which he had thrust into a hole made in the gristle that divides the nostrils. An instance of the like kind, and only one, had been seen in New Zealand. It was found, however, that among all these people, the same part of the nose was per- forated ; that they had holes in their ears ; and that they had bracelets made of plaited hair, upon the upper part of their arms. Thus the love of ornament takes place among them, though they are absolutely destitute of apparel. Three Indians, on the 12th, ventured down to Tupia*8 tent, and wers so plcas(Hl with their recep- tion, that one of them went with his canoe to fetch two others, who had never been seen by the English. FIRST VOYAGE. 108 his rfilum, lie introduced the strangers by name >a ceremony which was never omitted upon such :casions. From a further acquaintance with the latives, it was found that the colour of their skins iras not so darK us had at first been apprehended, [.Bnd tliat all of them were remarkably clean limbed) land extremely active and nimble. Their language [appeared to be more harsh than that of the islanders in the South Sea. On the 17 th, Mr. Cook sent the master and one of the mates in the pinnace to search for a channel northward ; after which, accompanied by Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, he went hito the woods on the other side of the water. In this excursion, the gen- tlemen had a further opportunity of improving theil acquaintance with the Indians, who by degrees became so familar, that several of them, the next day, ventured on board the ship. There the lieu- tenant left them, apparently much entertained, that he might go with Mr. Banks to take a further survey of the country, and especially to indulge an anxious*^ curiosity tliey had of looking round about them upon the sea, of which they earnestly wished, but scarcely dared to hope> that they might obtain a favourable and encouragmg prospect. When, after having walked along the shore for seven or eight miles to the northward, they ascended a very high hill, the view which presented itself to them inspired notliing but melancholy apprehensions. In every direction they saw rocks and shoals without number ;; and there appeared to be no passage out to sea but through the winding channels between them, the navigation of which could not be accomplished witii* out the utmost degree of ditiiculty and danger. Tiie spirits of the two gentlemen were not raised by this excursion. On the 19th, our voyagers were visited by ten of the natives ; and six or seven more were seen at a distance, chieiiy women, who were as naked as the l-i' m 'If !!i! ; t04 CAVTATN OOOK'iS male inhabitants of tlie country. There beinff at that time a number of turtles on the decit of the snip, the Indians who came on board were determined to get one of them, and expressed ^reat disappointment and an^er when our people refused to comply with their wishes. Several attempts were made by them to secure what they wanted by force, but all their efibrts proving unsuccessful, they suddenly leaped into their canoe in a transport of rage, and paddled towards the shore. The lieutenant, with Mr. Banks, and five or six of the ship's crew, immediately went into the boat, and got ashore, where many of the £nglish were engaged in various employments. As soon as the natives reached the land, tliey siezed their arms, which had been laid up in a tree, and having snatched a brand from under a pitch-kettle that was boiling, made a circuit to the westward of the few things our people had on shore, and with surprising quickness and dexterity set fire to the grass in their way. The grass, which was as dry as stubble, and five or six feet high, burned with surprising fury ; and a tent of Mr. Banks' would have been destroyed, if that gentleman had not immediately got some of the men to save it by hauling it down upon the beach. Every part of the ismith's forge, that would bum, was consumed. This transaction was followed by one of the same nature. In spite of threats and entrea- ties, the Indians went to a different place, where several of the Endeavour's crew were washing, and where the seine, the other nets, and a large quantity of linen, were laid out to dry, and again set fire to the grass. The audacity of this fresh attack rendered it necessary that a musket loaded with small shot should be iired at one of them, who being wounded at the distance of about forty yards, they all betook themselves to flight. In the last instance the fire was extinguished before it had made any considerable progress; out where it had first begun, it spread far into the woods. The natives being still in sight, Mr. FIRST VOrAOB. 106 Cook) to convince them that they had not ^ot out of his reach, fired a inusliet, charged with ball, abreast I of them, among the mangroves, upon which they quickened their pace, and were soon out of view. It was now expected that they would have given our navigators no further trouble ; but in a little time their voices were heard in the woods, and it was per- ceived that they came nearer and nearer. The lieu- tenant, therefore, together with Mr. Banks and three or four more persons, set out to meet them ; and the result of the interview, m consequence of the prudent and lenient conduct of our commander and his friends, was a complete reconciliation. Soon after the Indians went away, the woods were seen to be on fire, at the distance of two miles. This accident, if it had hap- pened a little sooner, might have produced dreadful effects ; for the powder had been but a few days ou board, and it was not many hours that the store tent, with all the valuable things contained in it, had been removed. From the fury with which the grass would burn in this hot climate, and the difficulty of extin- guishing the fire, our voyagers determined never to expose themselves to the like danger, but to clear the ground around them, if ever again they should be under the necessity of pitching their tents in such a situation. In the evening of this day, when every thinff was got on board the ship, and she was nearly ready for sailing, the master returned with tLe disagreeable account that there was no passage for her to the northward. The next morning, the lieutenant him- ^\i sounded and buoyed the bar. At this time the hills for many miles round were on fire, and the appearance they assumed at nigiit was eminently striking and splendid. In an excursion that was made by Mr. Banks, on the 23rd, to gather plants, he found the greatest part of the cloth that had been given to the Indians lying in a heap together. This, as well as the tricJiets m j\ ■ ■¥■ " •I 106 CAPTAIN COOKS which had been bestowed upon them, they probably regarded as useless lumber. Indeed they seemed to set little value on any thing possessed by our people, excepting their turtle, and that was a commoaity which could not be spared. As Lieutenant Cook was prevented by blowing weather from attempting to get out to sea, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solunder seized another opportunity, on tlie 34th, of pursuing their botanical researches. Having traversed the woods the greater part of the day without success, as they were returning through a deep valley, they discovered lying upon the grouAd several marking nuts, the anacaraium orientale^ Animated with the hope of meeting with the tree that bore them, a tree which perhaps, no European botanist had ever seen, they sought for it witli Rreat diligence and labour, but to no purpose While Mr. Banks was again gleaning the country, on the 26th, to enlarge his treasure of natural his- tory, he had the good fortune to take an animal of the opossum tribe, together with two young ones. It was a female, and though not exactly of the same species, much resembled the remarkable animal which Mons. BuiFon has described by the name of phalanger. , ^^Yi ISarly on the 4th of August, the Endeavour got once more under sail with a light air from the land, which soon died away, and was followed by sea* breezes from south-east by south. With these breezes the ship stood off to sea, east by north, having the pinnace a head, which was ordered to keep sounding without intermission. A little before noon, the lieu- tenant anchored in fifteen fathoms water, with a sandy bottom ; the reason of which was, that he did not think it safe to run in among the shoals, till, by taking a view of them from the mast-head at low water, he might be able to form some judgment v/hich way it would be proper for him to steer. This was a matter of nice and arduou determination. As Ye|^ to -TT« ■ FIRST YOTAOB. 107 )lowingf . Banks on the Having le day ough a grou/id lentale. he tree iropeaii with urpose ouQtry, *al his- imal of g ones. le same animal 3 name ►ur got 9 land, »y sea* freezes ng the unding le lieu- ivith a he did ill, by it low v/hich is wag ■4 lAlir. Cook was in douht whether he should beat back 'to tho southward, round all the shoals, or seek a passage to the eastward or the northward : nor was It possible to say whether each of these courses might not be attended with equal difliculty and danger. The impartiality and humanity of Lieut. Cook's conduct in the distribution of provisions ought not to pass unnoticed. Whatever turtle or other iish were caught, they were equally divided among the whole ship's crew, the meanest person on board having the same share with the lieutenant himself. He has justlv observed that this is a rule which every com- mander will iind it his interest to follow in any voy- age of a similar nature. Great difficulties occurred in the navigation from the Endeavour river. On the 5th of August, the lieutenant had not kept his course long, before shoals were discovered in every quarter, whicli obliged him, as night approached, to come to an anchor. In the mornhig of the 6th, there was so strong a gale, that our voyagers were prevented from weighing. When it was low water, Mr. Cook, with several of his offi- cers, kept a look out at the mast-head, to see if any Sassage could be discovered between the shoals, [othing, however, was in view excepting breakers, which extended from the south round by the east as far to the north-west, and reached out to sea, beyond the sight of any of the gentlemen. It did not appear that these breakers were caused by one continued shoal, but by several which lay detached from each other. On that which was the furthest to the west- ward, the sea broke very high, so that the lieutenant was inducf d to think that it was the outermost shoal. He was now convinced that there was no passage to sea but through the labyrinth formed by these shoals ; and at the same time he was wholly at a loss what course to steer, when the weather should permit the vessel to sail. The master's opinion was, that our navigators should beat back the way they came ; but m "iV ' m ! I 108 CAPTAIN CCOK'8 as the wind blew strongly, and almost without inter- mission from that quarter, this would liave been an endless labour, and yet, if a passage could not bn found to the northward, there was no other alterna- tive. Amidst these anxious deliberations, the gale increased, and continued with little remission, till the morning of the 10th, when the weather becoming more moderate, our commander weighed, and stood in for the land. He had now come to a final deter- mination of seeking a passage along the shore to the northward. ^ In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour proceeded in her course, and at noon came between tlie furthermost headland that lay in sight, and three islands which were four or five leagues to the north of it, out at sea. Here our navigators thought they saw a clear opening before them, and began to hope that they were once more out of danger. Of this hope, however, they were soon deprived ; on which account the lieutenant gave the headland the name of Gape Flattery. After he had steered some time along the shore for what was believed to be the open channel, the petty officer at the mast-head cried out aloud that he saw land ahead, which extended quite round to the three islands, and that between the ship and them there was a large reef. Mr. Cook, upon this, ran up to the mast-head himself, and plainly discerned the reef, which was so far to the windward that it could not be weathered. As to the land which the petty officer had supposed to be the main, •our commander was of opinion that it was only a clutiter of small islands. The master, and some others, who went up the mast-head after the lieu- tenant, were entirely of a diiTerent opinion. All of them were positive that the land in sight did not con- sist of islands, but that it was a part of the main ; and they rendered their report still more alarming by adding, that they saw breakers around them on every wlo. In a situation so critical and doubtful^ Ml a hel it inter- been an not bn tlterna- he gale ion, till 'comins d stood I deter- i to the eavoup etween d three B north ht they o hope 3f this which i name le time le open ed out i quite le ship } upon plainly iward land main^ i^ly a some ! lieu- AJl of tcon- Qain; •ming m on ^tful, FIRST YOYAaS. 109 V"' Vt. Cook thought proper to come to an anchor under a. high pointy which he immediately ascended, that lie might have a further view of the sea and country. The prospect he had from this place, which he called Point Look-out, clearly confirmed him in his former opinion, the justness of which displayed one of those numerous instances wherein it was manifest how much he exceeded the people about him in the saga- city of his judgment concerning matters of navigation. The lieutenant, being anxious to discover more distinctly the situation of the shoals, and the channel between them, determined to visit the northernmost and largest of the three islands before mentioned, which, from its height, and its lying five leagues out to sea, was peculiarly adapted to his purpose. Ac* cordingly, in company with Mr. Banks, whose forti- tude and curiosity stimulated him to take a share in every undertaking, he set out in the pinnace, on the morning of the eleventh, upon this expedition. While the lieutenant was engaged in his survey, Mr. Banks, always attentive to the great object or natural history, collected some plants which he had never met with before. No animals were perceived upon the place, excepting lizards, for which reason the gentlemen gave it the name of Lizard Island. In their return to the ship, they landed on a low sandy island that had trees upon it, and which abounded with an incredible number of birds, prin- cipally sea-fowl. Here they found the nest of an eagle, and the nest of some other bird, of what species they could not distinguish ; but it must certainly be one of the largest kinds that exist. This was apparent from the enormous size of the nest, which was built with sticks upon the ground, and was no less than six- and-twenty feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches in height. The spot which the gentlemen were now upon they called Eagle Island. When Lieut. Cook got ou board, he entered into a very serious deliberation concerning the course he ' ! if »il no CAPTAIN COOK'A should pursue. After considering what he had seen himselt, and the master's report, he was of opinion, that by keeping in with the main land, he stiould run the risk of being locked in by the great reef, ana of being compelled at lust to return back in search of another passage. By the delay that would hence be occasioned, our navigators would almost certainly be prevented from getting in time to the East Indies, which was a matter of the utmost importance, and indeed of absolute necessity ; for they had now not much more than three months' provision on board, at short allowance. The judgment the lieutenant had formed, together with the facts and appearances on which it was grounded, he stated to his officers, by whom it was unanimously agreed that the best thing tliey could do would be to quit the coast entirelyi till they could approach it again with less danger. In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour early m the morning of the 13th, got under sail, and successfully passed through one of the channels, or openings in the outer reef, which Mr. Cook had seen from the island. When the ship had got without the breakers, there was no ground within one hundred and tifty fathoms, and our people found a large sea rolHng in upon them from the south^^east. This was a cer- tt>in sign that neither land nor shoals were near them in that direction. So happy a change in the situation of our voyagert was sensibly felt in every breast, and was risible in every countenance. They had been little less than tiiree mouths in a state that perpetually threatened them with destruction. Frequently had they passed tlieir nights at anchor within hearing of the surge tliat broke over the shoals and rocks ; and they knew tiiat if by any accident the anchors should not hold against an almost continual tempest, they must in a few minutes inevitably perish. They had sailed three hundred and sixty leagues without once, even for a moment, having a man out of the chains weaving the FIUST VOYAGF 111 lead. This wns a circumstance which perhaps never bad happened to any other vessel. But now our navigators found tliemselves in an open sea with deep water ; and the joy they experienced was pro- portioned to their lute danger, and their present 8e« curlty. Nevertheless, the very waves, which proved by their swell that our people had no rocks or shoaig to fear, convinced them, at the same time, that they could not put a confidence in the ship equal to what they had done before she struck. So far were her leuKs widened by the blows she received from the waves, tliut she admitted no less than nine inches of water in an hour. If our company had not been lately in so much more imminent danger, this fact, considering the state of the pumps, and the naviga- tion which was still in view, would have been a matter of very serious concern. The passage or channel through which the En* deavour passed into the open sea bey./nd the reef, lies in latitude 14 deg. 32 min. south. It may always be known by the three high islands within it, to which, on account of the use they may be of in guiding the way of future voyagers, our commander gave the appellation of the Islands of Direction. It was not a long time that our navigators enjoyed the satisfaction of being free from the alarm of dan- ger. As they were pursuing their course in the night of the 15th, they sounded frequently, but had no bottom with one hundred and fifty fathoms, nor any ground with the same length of line. Never- theless, at four in the morning of the 16th, thev plainly heard the roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw it foaming to a vast liright, at not more than the distance of a mile. The waves, which rolK d in upon the reef, carried the vessel towards it with great rapidity ; and, at the same time, our people could reach uo ground with an anchor, and had not a breath of wind for a sail. In a situation so dreadful, tliere was no recourse but in the boats ; and most m 112 CAPTAIN COOK « unliappily, the pinnace was under repair. By the help, however, of the long-boat, and the yawl, which were sent ahead to tow, the ship's head was got round to the northward — a circumstance which might delay, if it could not prevent destruction. This was not effected till six oxlock, and our voyagers were not then a hundred yards from the rock, upon which the same billow that washed the side of the vessel broke to a tremendous height the very next time it rose. There was only, therefore, a dreary valley between the English and destruction — a valley no wider than the base of one wave, while the sea under them was unfathomable. The carpenter, in the mean while, having hastily patched up the pinnace, she wus hoisted out, and sent ahead to tow in aid of the other boats. But all these efforts would have been uieffectual, if a light air of wind had not sprung up just at the crisis of our people's fate. It was so lighi bn air, that at any other time it would not have been observed : but it was sufficient to turn the scale in favour of our navigators ; and, in conjunction with the assistance which was afforded by the boats, it gave the ship a perceptible motion obliquely from the reef. The hopes of the company now revived ; but iu less than ten minutes a dead calm succeeded, and the vessel was again driven towards the breakers, which were now at the distance of two hundred yards. However, before the ground was lost which had already been gained, the same light breeze returned, and lasted ten minutes more. During this time a small opening, about a quarter of a miie distant was discovered in the reef; upon which Mr. Cook imme- diately sent one of the mates to examine it, who re- ported that its breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but that within it there was smooth water. This discovery presented the prospect of a possibility of an escape, by pushing the ves^i through the opening. Accordhi^ly the attempt was made, but it failed of success : for when our pe< pie, by the IBy the which Iras got might lis was •s were which vessel time it valley lley no under lemean ,ce, she i of the fe been unff up, soiighl ,ve been scale in )n with loats, it Tom tlie 3d ; but ed, and reakers, d yards, ch had itumed, time a ant was imme- who re- Q length smooth !ct of a through i made, , by the FIU3T VOVAOB. 113 joint assistance of their boats and the breeze, had reached the opening, they found tliat it had become high water; and to their great surprise, they met the tide of ebb running out lilce a mill stream. In direct contrariety to their expectations, some ad- vantage was gained by this event. Though it was impossible to go through this opening, the stream, which prevented the Endeavour from doing it, carried her out about a quarter of a mile; and the boats were so much assisted in towing her, by the tide of ebb, that at noon she liad gained the distance of nearly two miles. However, there was yet too much reason to despair of deliverance; for even if the breeze which had now died away, had revived, our navigators were still embayed in the reef; ana the tide of ebb being spent, the tide of flor)d, notwith- {iktanding their utmost efforts, drove the ship back again into lier former perilous situation. Happily, about this time, another opening was perceived, nearly a mile to the westward. Our commander immediately sent Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, to examine it; and in the meanwhile the Endeavour struggled hard with the flood, sometimes gaining and sometimes losing ground. During this severe service, every man did liis duty witli as much calm- ness and regularity as if no danger had been near. At length Mr. Hicks returned with the intelligence that the opening, though narrow and hazardous, was capable of being passed. The bare possibility of passing it was encouragement suflicient to make the attempt ; and indeed all danger was less to be dreaded by our people than that of continuing in their present situation. A light breeze having fortunately sprung up, this, in conjunction with the aid of boats, and the very tide of flood, that would otherwise have been their destruction, enabled them to enter the opening, through which they were hurried with Hutazing rapidity. Such was the force of the torrent by which they were carried along, that they were 20 i ■O : i m li 114 CAPTAIN cook's kept from driving against either side of the channel, which in breadth was not more than aquarter of a mile. While they were sounding this gulf, their soundings were remarkably irregular, varying from thirty to seven fathoms, and the ground at bottom was foul. As soon as our navigators had got within the reef, thev came to an anchor: and their joy was exceed- nigfy great at having regained a situation which, tliree days before, they had quitted with the utmost pleasure and transport. Rocks and shoals, which are always dangerous to the mariner, e^^en when they are previously known and marked, are pecu- liarly dangerous in seas which have never been navi- gated before ; and in this part of the globe they are more perilous than in any other. Here they consist of reefs of coral rock, which rise like a wall almost perpendicularly out ot the d<>]•. jv/-"^ 118 CAPTAIN COOK ai late, or at least more thinly inhabited than the parts which were visited. Of traffic the natives had no idea, nor could any be communicated to them. The things whicli were given they received, but did not appear to understand the signs of the English re- qnirine: a return. There was no reason to believe that tney ate animal food raw. As they have no vessel in which water can be boiled, they either broil their meat upon the coals, or bake it in a hole by the help of hot stones agreebly to the custom of the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands. Fire is pro- duced by them with great facility, and they spread it in a suprising manner. For producing it, thev take two t^.^ces of soft wood, one of which is a stick about eigne dne inches long, while the other piece is flat. he stick they shape in an obtuse point at one end, and pressing it upon the flat wood^ cum it nimbly by holding it between their hands. In doing this, they often shift their hands up, and then move them down, with a view of increasing the pressure as much as possible. By this process they obtain fire in less than two minutes, and from the smallest spark, they carry it *o any height or extent with great speed and dexterity. ■; It was not possible, considering the limited intei^- course which our navigators had with the natives of New South Wales, that much could be learned with regard to their language. Nevertheless, as this is an object of no small curiosity to the learned, and is indeed of peculiar importance in searching into the origin of the various nations that have been disco- vered, Mr. Cook and his friends took some pains to collect such a specimen of it as might in a certain degree answer the purpose. Our commander did not quit the country without making such observa- tions relative to the currents and tides upon the coast, as, while they Increase the general knowledge of navigation, may be of service to future voyagers. The UrreguiuhtY of the tides is an object worthy of notice. FIRST VOYAGB. 119 From the coast of New South Wales, the lieutenant steered, on the 23rd of Auju^ust, for the coast of New Guinea, and, on the 25th, fell upon a dangerous shoaL Tlie ship was in six fathoms, hut scarcely two were found in sounding round her, at the distance of half a cable ^ length. This shoal was of such an extent, reaching from the east round by the north and west to the south-west, that there was no method for the vessel to get clear of it but by her going back the way by which she came. Here was another hair- breadth escape ; for it was nearly high water, and there ran a short cockling sea, which, if the sea had struck, must very soon have bulged her. So dan^ gerous was her situation, that if her direction had been half a cable's length more, either to the right or left, she must have struck before the signal for the shoal could have been made. It had been Lieut. Cook's intention to steer north- west till he had made the south coast of New Guinea, and it was his purpose to touch upon it, if that could be found pruc^.ticable. But, in consequence of the shoals he met with, he altered his course in the hope of finding a clearer channel, and deeper water. His hope was agreeably verified ; for by noon on the 2(ich, the depth of water was greatly increased to seventeen fathoms. On the 28th, our voyagers foir.id the sea to be in many places covered with a brown scum, such as the sailors usually call spawn. When the lieutenant first saw it, he was alarmed, fearing that the ship was again among the shoals ; but the depth of water^ upon sounding, was discovered to be equal to what it was in other places. The same ap- pearance had been observed on the coasts of Brazil and New Holland, in which cases it was at no great distance from the shore. Mr. Banks and Dr. So- lander examined tba scum, but could not determine what it waei, any further than as they saw reason to suppose that it belonged to the vegetable kingdom. The sailors, upon meeting with more of it, gave up vmm^er"A 120 CAPTAIN cook's the notion of its being spawn, and finding a new name for it, callud it bea saw-dust. At day-break, on the 3rd of September, our navi- gators came in sight of New Guhieu, and stood in for it with a fresh gale till nine o'clock, when they brought to, being in three fathoms water, and within about three or four miles of land. Upon this tiie pinnace was hoisted, and the lieutenant set off from the ship with the boat's crew, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Bankd' servants, being in all twelve persons, well armed. As soon as they came ashore, they discovered the prints of human feet, wliich could not long have been pressed upon the sand. Concluding, therefore, that the natives were at no great distance, and there being a thick wood which reached to within a hundred yards of the water, the gentlemen thought it necessary to proceed Tvith caution, lest their retreat to the boat should b(i cut off. When they had walked some way along tlio skirts of the wood, they came to a grove ot cocoa-nut trees, at the fruit of which they looked very wishfully ; but not thinking it safe to climb, they were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut. After they had advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rushed out of the wood with a hi^leous shout, and, as they ran towards the English, the foremost threw something out cl his hand, which flew on one side of him, and burned exactly like gunpowder, though without making any report. The two other natives having at the same instant discharged their arrows, the lieutenant and his partv were under the necessity of firing, first with small shot, and a second time with ball. Upon this, the three Indians ran away with great agility. As Mr. Cook had no disposition forcibly to invade this country, either to gratify the appetites or the curiosity of his people, and was convinced that aothhig was to be done upon friendly terms, he and hi» companions returned with all expedition towards PIKST VOYAGE. 121 their boat. When they were aboard, they rowed abreast of the natives who had come down to tlie shore in aid of their countrymen, and whose numbers now amounted to between sixty and a hundred. Their appearance was much the same as that of the New Hollanders; they nearly resembled them in stature, and in having their hair short and cropped. Like them also, they were absolutely naked ; but the colour of their skin did not seem quite so dark, which, however, might be owing to their being less dirty. While the English gentlemen were viewing them, they where shouting defiance, and letting off their fires by four or five at a time. Our people could not imagine what these fires were, or what purpose they were intended to answer. Tliose who discharged them had in tlieir hands a short piece of stick, which they swung sideways from them, and immediately there issurd fire and smoke, exactly resembling those of a musket, and of as short a duration. The men on board the ship, who observed this surprising pheno- menon, were so far deceived by it, as to believe that the Indians had fire-arms. To the persons in the bout it had the appearance of the firing of volleys without a report. The place where this transaction happened lies in the latitude of 6 deg. 15 min. south, and is about sixty-five leagues to the north-east of Port Saint Augustine, or Walcha Caep, and is near what is called in the charts C. de la Colta de St. Bonoventura. In every part of the coast, the land is covered with a vast luxuriance of wood and herbage. The cocoa- nut, the bread-fruit, and the plantain-tree, flourisli here in the highest perfection; besides which, the country abounds with most of the trees, shrubs, and Slants that are common to the South Sea Islands, ew Zealand, and New Holland. Soon after Mr. Cook and his party had returned to the ship, our voyagers made sail to the westward, tlie lieutenant having resolved to spend no more I llr ■fit- 1- 1.1 • 'Ufk, 122 CAPTAIN cook's time upon this coast — a resolution which was greatly to the satisfaction of a very ereat majority of his people. Some of the officers indeed were particularly urgent that a number of men might he sent on shore to cuk down cocoa-nut trees for the sake of their fruit. This, however, our commander absolutely re- fused, as equally unjust and cruel. It was morally certain from the preceding behaviour of the natives, that if their property had been invaded, they would have made a vigorous effort to defend it, in which case the lives of many of them must have been sacrificed ; and perhaps, too, several of the English would have fallen in tne contest. The necessity of a quarrel with the Indians would have been regretted by the lieutenant, even if he had been impelled to it by a want of the necessaries of life ; but to engage in it for the transient gratification tliat would arise from obtaining two or tliree hundred green cocoa- nuts, appeared in his view higlily criminal. The same calamity, at least with regard to the natives, would probably have occurred if he had sought for any other place on the coast, to the northward and westward, where the ship might have lain so near the shore as to cover his people with the guns when they had landed. Besides, there was cause to believe that before such a place could have been found, our navigators would have been carried so far to the westward so as be obliged to go to Batavia, on the north side of Java. Tliis, in Mr. Cook's opinion, would not have been so safe a passage as that to the south of Java, through the straits of Sunda. Another reason for his making the best of his way to Batavia was the leakiness of tlie vessel, which rendered it doubtfrl whether it would not be necessary to heave her down when she arrived at the port. Our com- mander's resolution was further confirmed by ihe consideration that no discovery could be expected in seas which had already been navigated, and where the coast had been sufficiently described both by FIRST VOYAGE. 123 Spanish and Dutch geographers, and especially by the latter. The only merit claimed by the lieutenant in this part of his voyage, was the havin^i^ established it as a fact beyond all controversy, that New Holland and New Guinea are two distinct countries. Without staying, therefore, on the coast of New Guinea, the Endca^ our on the same day directed her course to the westward, in pursuing which, Mr. Cook had an opportunity of rectifying the errors of former navigators. Very early in tlie morning of tlie 6th of September, our voyagers passed a small island, which lay to the north-north-west, and at day-break they discovered another low island, ex- tending from that (]^uarter to north-north-east. Upon the last island, which appeared to be of considerable extent, the lieutenant would have landed to exanune its produce, if the wind had not blown so fresh as to render his design impracticable. Unless these two islands belong to the Arrou islands, they have no place in the charts; and if they do belong to the Arrou islands, they are laid down at t t great a dis- tance from New Guinea. Some other land which was seen this day ought by its distance from New Guinea, to have been part of the Arrou islands : but if any dependence can be placed on former charts, it lies a degree further to the south. On the 7th, when the ship was in latitude deg 20 min. south, and longitude 229 deg. 34 min. west, our people ought to have been in sight of the Weasel Isles, which, in the charts, are laid down at the dis- tance of twenty or twenty-five leagues from the coast of New Holland. But as our commander, saw nothing of them, he concluded that they must have been placed erroneously. Nor will this be deemed sur- prising, when it is considered that not only these islands, but the coast which bounds this sea, h and Mr. Cook ii ss m ji.'i' 11 *Sii ISO cattain cook's first voyagb. delivered to him the common lo^-books of his ship, and the jonmals of some of the officers. The Endea- vour, however, kept in company with the fleet till the morning of the 23rd, at wliicli time ttiere was not a single vessel in sight. Mr. Charles Gierke, a youns man extremely well qualified for the station, and . whose name hereafter will frequently occur, received an order from Mr. Cook to act as lieutenant in Mr. Hicks' room. The rigging and sails of the ship were now become 80 bad, that something was continually |:iving way. Nevertheless our commander pursued his course in safety : and, on the 10th of June, land which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the boy who had first seen New Zealand. On the 11th, tne lieutenant ran up the channel. At six the next morning he passed Beachy Head, and in the afternoon of the same day he came to an anchor in the Downs, and went on shore at Deal. Thus ended Mr. Cook's first voyage round the world, in which he had gone through so many dan- gers, explored so many countries, and exhibited the strongest proofs of his possessing an emhiently saga- cious and active mind — a mind that was equal to every perilous enterprise, and to the boldest and most suc- cessful efforts of navigation and discovery. |sYiok had per- formed his circumnavigation of the globe, justly en- titled him to the protection of government, and the favour of his sovereign. Accordingly he was pro- moted to be a commander in his Majesty's navy, by commission bearing date the 29th of August, 1771. Mr. Cools, on this occasion, from a certain conscious- ness of his own merit, wished to have been appointc ' a post-captain. But the Earl of Sandwich, who wa& now at the head of the Admiralty -Board, though he had the greatest regard for our navigator, could not concede to his request, because a compliance with it would have been inconsistent with the order of the naval service. The difference was in point of rank only, and not of advantage. A commander has the same pay as a post-captain, and his authority is the same when he is in actual employment. The dis- tinction is " cessary step in the progress to the higher hon j of the profession. It cannot be doubted but that the President and Council of the Royal Society were highly satisfied with the manner in which the transit of Venus had been observed. The papers of Mr. Cook and Mr. Qreen, relative to this subject, were put into the bands of the astronomer royal, to be by nim digested, and that he might deduce from them the important consequences to science which resulted from the ob- I 136 ACCOUNT OF CAPT. COOK fiKTWEEN senation. This was done by him with an accuracy and ability becoming his high knowledge and cha- racter. On the 21st of May, 1771, Captain Coolc communicated to the Royal Society, in a letter ad- dressed to Dr. Maskelyne, an *^ Account of the flow- ing of the Tides in the South Sea, as observed on board his Majesty's bark the Endeavour." The reputation our navigator had acquired by his late voyage was deservedly ^reat ; and the desire of the public to be acquainted with the new scenes and new objects that were now brought to light, was ardently excited. It is not surprising, therefore, that different attempts were made to satisfy the general curiosity. There soon appeared a publication enti- tled, " A Journal of a Voyage Round the World.** This was the production of some person who had been upon the expedition; and though his account was dry and imperfect, it served, in a certain degree, to relieve the eagerness of inquiry. The journal of Sid- ney Parkinson, draftsman to Sir Joseph Banks, to whom it belonged by ample purchase, was likewise printed from a copy surreptitiously obtained ; but an mjunction from the Court of Chancery for some time prevented its appearance. This worK, though dis- honestly given to the world, was recommended by Elates. But it was Dr. Hawksworth's account of ieutenant Cook's voyage which completely gratified the public curiosity. This account, which was written by authority, was drawn up from the journal of the lieutenant, and the papers of Sir Joseph Banks; and, besides the merit of the composition, it derived an extraordinary advantage from the number and excel- lence of its charts and engravings, which were fur- nished at the expense of government. The large price given by the booksellers for this work, and the avidity with which it was read, displayed in the strongest light, the anxiety of the nation to be fully informed in every thing that belonged to the late navigation and discoveries. - tb< a hf BIS FIRST AND SECOND VOYAGE. 139 Captain Cook, daring liis voyage, had sailed over tlie Pacific Ocean in many of tliose latitudes in which a southern continent had been expected to lie. He had ascertained that neither New Zealand or New Holland were parts of such a continent. But the general question concerning its existence had not been determined by him, nor did he go out for that purpose, though some of the reasons on which the notion of it had been adopted were dispelled in the course of his navigation. It is well l^nown how fondly the idea of a Terra Australis Incognita had for nearly two centuries been entertuined. Many plausible philosophical arguments have been urged in its support, and many facts alleged in its favour. When the design of accomplishing this great object was resulved upon, it did not admit of any hesitation by whom it was to be carried into execution. No person was esteemed equally qualified with Captain Cook for conducting an enterprise, the view of which was to give the utmost possible extent to the geo- graphy of the globe, and the knowledge of navigation. For the greater advantage of the undertaking, it was determined that two ships should be employed ; and much attention was paid to the choice of them, and to their equipment for the service. After mature deliberation by the Navy Board, during which par- ticular regard was had to the captain's wisdom and experience, it was agreed that no vessels were so proper for discoveries in distant unknown parts, as those which were constructed like the Endeavour. This opinion concurring with that of the Earl of Sandwich, the Admiralty came to the resolution that two ships of a similar construction should be pro- vided. Accordingly two vessels, both of which had been built at Whitby, by the same person who built the Endeavour, were purchased from Captain William Hammond, of Hull. They were about fourteen or sixteen months old at the time when they were bought, and, in Captain Cook's judgment, were us . % 140 ACCOUNT OP CAfT. COOK BETWEEN well adapted to the Intended service, as if they hnd heen expressly constnicted for that purpose. The largest of the two, which consisted ot four hundred and sixty-two tons burden, was named the Resolu- tion. To the other, whien was three hundred and thirty-six tons burden, was given the name of Die Adventure. Onlhe 28th of November, 1771, Captain Cook was appointed to the command of the former, and about the same time Mr. Tobias Furneaux was promoted to the command of the latter. The com- plement of the Resolution including officers and men, was fixed at one hundred and twelve persons, and that of the Adventure at eighty-one. In the equip- ment of these ships, every circumstance was attended to that could contribute to the comfort and success of the voyage. They were fitted in the most com • plete manner, and supplied with every extraordinary article which was suggested to be necessary or useful. Lord Sandwich, whose zeal was indefatigable upon this occasion, visited the vessels from time to time, to be assured that the whole equipment was agreeable to his wishes, and to the satisfaction of those who were to engage in the expedition. Nor were the navy and victualling boards wanting in procuring for the ships the very best of stores and provisions, with some alterations in the species of them that were adapted to the nature of^ the Enterprise; besides which, there was an ample supply of anti-scorbutic articles, such as malt, sour krout, suited cabbage, portable broth, saloop, mustard, marmalade of car- rots, and inspissated juice of wort and beer. Ho less attention was paid to the cause of science in general. The Admiralty engaged Mr. William Hodges, an excellent landscape painter, to embark in the voyage in order to make drawings and paint- ings of such objects as could not so well be compre- hended from written descriptions. Mr. John Rein- tiold Forster and his son were fixed upon to explore and collect the natural history of the countries which mil pai wai exi wi astj in uit >yj i:^ HTS FIRST ANb SECOND VOYAQB. 141 wantini; to accomplisl expedition, tlie Board of Longitude agreed with Mr. William Wales and Mr. William Bay ley to make astronomical observations. Mr. Wales was stationed in the Resolution, and Mr. Buyley in the Adventure. By the same board they were funiUhed with the best ot instruments, and particularly with four time* nieces, — three constructed b^ Mr. Arnold, and one by Mr. Kendal, on Mr. Harrison's principles. Though Captain Cook had been appointed to the command of the Resolution on the 2dth of November, 1771, such were the preparations necessary for so long and important a voyage, and the impediments which occasionally and unavoidably occurred, that the ship did not sail from Deptford till the 9th of A.pril following, nor did she leave Long Reach till the 10th of May. In plying down the river, it was found necessary to put into Sheerness, in order to make some alterations in her upper works. These the officers of the yard were directed immediately to ''dke in hand; and Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Palliser came down to see them executed in the most etlectual manner. The ship being again completed fur sea by the 22d of June, Captain Cook on that day sailed from Sheerness, and on the 3d of July joined tlie Adventure in Plymouth Sound. Lord Sandwich, on his return from a visit to the dock-yards, having met the Resolution on the preceding evening, his lordship and Sir Hugh Palliser gave the last mark of their great attention to the object of the voyage, by coming on board to assure themselves that every thing was done which was agreeable to our com- mander's wishes, and that his vessel was equipped entirely to his satisfaction. At rlyihouth Captain Cook received his instruc- tions, with regard to whicli, without entering into a minute detail of them, it is sufficient to say, that he ' 1 MM t -I HI ■. U2 ACCOUNT OP CAPTAIN COOK, &C. was sent out upon the most enlarged plan of disco- very that is known in the history of navigation. He H>Ta3 instructed not only to circumnavigate the whole elobe, but to circumnavigate it in hi^rh southern latitudes, making such traverses, from time to time, into every comer of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as might finally and effectually resolve the much agitated question about the existence of a sortbern continent in an^ part of the southern hemi- sphere to which access could be had by the efforts of the boldest and most skilful navigators. t 'I avt^' CHAPTER III. NAitUATIVfi OP CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOTAOU ROUND THE WOULD. On tliel3tli of July, Captain Cook sailed from Ply- mouth, and on the 29th of the same month, anchorea in Funchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. Having obtained a supply of water, wine, and other npcessa- ries at the island, he left it on the 1st of August, and sailed to the southward* As he proceeded in his voyage, he made three puncheons of beer of the in- spissated juice of malt, and the liquor produced was very brisk and drinkable. The heat of the weather, and the agitation of the ship, had hitherto withstood all the endeavours of our people to prevent this juice from being in a high state of fermentation. If it could be kept from fermenting, it would be a most valuable article at sea. The captain having found that his stock of water would not lust to the Cape of Good Hope, without putting his men on scanty allowance, resolved to stop at St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verd islands, for a supply. At Port Praya, in this island, he anchored on the 10th of August, and by the I4th, he had completed his water, and procured some other re- ireshments ; upon which he set sail, and prosecuted his course. He embraced the occasion, which his touching at St. Jago afforded him, by giving such a delineation and description of Port Praya, and of the supplies there to be obtained^ as might be of service to future navigators. ■"!;■ ¥ il ^ i •it* 144 CAPTAIN COOK 3 Captain Cook on the 8th of September, crossed the Line in the longitude of 8 deg. west, and proceeded without meeting any tiling remarkable. Our commnnder had been informed before he left England, that he sailed at an improper season of the year, and that he should meet with much calm wea- ther, near and under the Line, fiut though such weather may happen in some years, it Is not always, or even generally to be expected. So far was it from being the case with Captain Cook, that he had a brisk south-west wind in those very latitudes where the calms had been predicted ; nor was he exposed to any of the tornadoes which are so much spoken of by other navigators. On the 29th of the month, be- tween eight and nine o'clock at night, when our voyagers were near the Cape of Good Hope, the whole sea within the compass of their sight oecame at once as it were illuminated. The captain had been formerly convinced by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander that such appearances in the ocean were occasioned by insects. Mr. Forster, however, seemed disposed to adopt a different opinion. To detenaine the question, our commander ordered some buckets of water to be drawn up from alongside the ship, which were found full of an innumerable quantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin*8 head, and quite transparent. Though no life was perceived in them, there could be no doubt of their being living animals when in their own proper element ; and Mr. Forster became now well satisned that they were the cause of the sea's illumination. On the 30th, the Resolution and Adventure an- chored in Table Bay ; soon after which Captain Cook went on shore, and, accompanied by Captain Fur- ncaux and the two Mr. Forsters, waiteti on Baron Plattenburg, the governor of the Cape of Good Hope, who received the gentlemen with great politenebs, and promised them every assistance the place could atibrd. From him our commaudek' learned that two !■ ■Ill I llfinftll tftat SECOND VOYAGE. 146 Freucb ships from the Mauritius, about eight months before, had discovered land in the latitude of 41 deg. south, along which they sailed forty miles, till they came to a bay, into which they were upon the point of entering, when thev were driven off and separated in a hard gale of wind. Previous to this misfortune, they had lost some of their boats and people, that had been sent out to souiid the bay. Captain Cook was also informed by Baron Plattenburg, that in the month of March two other ships from the island of Mauritius hud touched at the Cfape, on their way to the South Pacific Ocean, where they were going to make discoveries, under the command of M. Marion. On the 22d of November, our commander sailed from the Cape of Good Hope, and proceeded on his voyage in search of a southern continent. Having got clear of the land, he directed his course for Cape Circumcision ; and judging that cold weather would soon approach, he ordered slops to he served to such of the people as were in want of them, and gave to each man the fearnought jacket and trousers allowed by the Admiralty. On the 29th, the wind, which was west-north-west, increased to a storm, that con- tinued, with some few intervals of moderate weather, till the 6tii of December. By this gale, which was attended with hail and rain, and which blew at times with such violence that the ships could carry no sails, our voyagers were driven far to the eastward of their intended course, and no iiopes were left to the captain of reaching Cape Circumcision. A still greater misfortune was the loss of the principal part of the live stock on board, consisting of sheep, hogs, and geese. At the same time, the sudden transition from warm mild weather to weather which was ex- tremely cold and wet, was so severely felt by our people, that it was necessary to make some addition to theur allowance of spirits, by giving each of them a dram on particular occasions. Our navigators, on the IQth of December^ begOD 20 L ftlj if ill r If 146 CAPTAIN cook's to meet with islands of ice. One of these islands was so much concealed from them by the haziness of tlie weather, accompanied with snow and sleet, that they were steering directly towards it, and did not see it tiU it was at a less distance than that of a mile. Captain Cook judged it to be about fifty feet high, ana half a mile in circuit. It was fiat at the top, and its sides rose in a perpendicular direction, against which the sea broke to a great height. The weather contiimhig to be hazy, tlie captain, on account of the ice islands, was obliged to proceed witli the utmost caution. Six of them were passed on the 12th, some of which were nearly two miles in circuit, and sixty feet high; nevertheless, such were the force and height of tlie waves, that the sea broke quite over them. Hence was exhibited a view that for a few moments was pleasing to the eye ; but tlie pleasure was soon swallowed up in the horror which seized upon the mind from the prospect of danger ; for if a siiip should be so unfortunate as to get on the wea- ther side of one of these islands, she would be dashed to pieces in a moment. The vessels, on the 14th, were stopped by an im- mense field of low ice, to which no end could be seen, either to the east, west, or south. In different parts of this field were highlands or hills of ice, like tliosei which our voyagers had found floating in the sea, and twenty of which had presented tiiemselves to view the day before. Some of the people on board imaffined that they saw land over the ice, and Captain Cook himself at &rst entertained the same sentiment. But upon more narrowly examining these ice hills, and the various appearances they made when seen through the haze, he was induced to change his opinion. On the 18th, though in the morning our navigators had been quite embaved, they were, not- withstanding, at length enabled to get clear of the Held of ice. They were, however, at the same time, carried in among the ice islands, which perpetually I SECOND VOYAGE. 147 mds was »8 of tlie liat they ot see it a mile, et high, the top, , against weather itoftlie utmost h, some 1(1 sixty roe and ite over r a few )leasure 1 seized for if a fie wea- i dashed ^ an im- be seen, Dt parts ^e thosei l:he sea, Blves to n board Captain itiment. :e hills, en seen Bge his ing our 'e, not- of the le time, utually aucceeded one another ; which were almost equally dangerous ; and the avoiding of which was a matter of the greatest difficulty. But perilous as it is to sail in a thick fog, among these floating rocks, as our commander properly called them, this is prefer- able to the being entangled with immense fields of ice under the same circumstances. In this latter case the great danger to be apprehended is the get- ting fast in the ice — a situation which would be alarming in the highest degree. It had been a generally received opinion, that such ice as has new been described is formed in bays and rivers. Agreeably to this supposition, our voyagers were led to believe that land was not far distant, and that it lay to the northward behind the ice. As, therefore, they had sailed above thirty leagues along the edge of the ice, without finding a passage to the south. Captain Cook determined to run thirty or forty leagues to the east, and afterwards to endeavour to get to the southward. If in this attempt, he met with no other land or impediment, his design was to stretch behind the ice, and thus to bring the matter to a decision. The weather at this thne affected the senses with a feeUng of cold much greater than that which was pointed out by the thermometer, so that the whole crew complained. In order the better to enable them to sustain the severity of the cold, the captain directed the sleeves of their jackets to be lengthened with baize, and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, strengthened with canvass. Tliese precautions greatly contributed to their com- fort and advantage. It is worthy of observation, that although the weather was as sharp on the 25th of December as might have been expected, in the same month of the ^ear, in any part of £ngland, this was the middle ot summer with our navigators. Some of the people now appearing to have symptoms of the scurvv, fresh wort was given them every day, prepared under the direction of the surgeona. •';f' ii; mm 148 CAPTAIN COOK*S from the malt which had been provided for the purpose. By the 2dth, it became sufficiently ascertained, from the course our commander had pursued, that the field of ice, ulon^ which the ships had sailed, did not join to any land, as had been conjectured. At this time. Captain Cook came to a resolution, pro- vided he met with no impediment, to run as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumcision. While he was prosecuting this design, a gale arose on the 31st, wiiich brought with it such a sea as rendered it very dangerous for the vessels to remain among the ice ; and the danger was increased by discovering an immense field to the north, which extended further than the eye could reach. As our voyagers were not above two or three miles from the field, and were surrounded by loose ice, there was no time to deli- berate. They hauled to the south, and though they happily got clear, it was not till the ships had re- ceived several hard knocks from the loose pieces, which were of the largest kind. On Friday, the Ist of January, 1773, the gale abated ; and on the next day, in the afternoon, our people had the felicity of enjoying the sight of the moon, the face of which had not been seen but once by them since they had de- parted from the Cape of Good Hope. Hence a judg- ment may be formed of the sort of weather they had been exposed to, from the time of their leaving that place. The present opportunity was eagerly seized for making 'several observations of the sun and moon. Captain Cook was now nearly in the same longi- tude which is assigned to Cape Circumcision, and about ninety-five leagues to the south of the latitude in which it is said to lie. At the same time the weather was so clear, that land might have been seen at the distance of fourteen or fifteen leagues* He concluded it, therefore, to be very probable that what Bouvet took for land was nothing but moun- tains of ice, surrounded by loose or tield ice. Our 8BC0ND VOYAOB. 149 present navigators had naturally been led into a similar inistakdt The conjecture that such ice as had lately been seen was Joined to land was a very plau- sible one, though not founded on fact. Upon the whole there was good reason to believe that no land was to be met with, under this meridian, between the lati- tude of fifty-five and fifty-nine, where some had been supposed to exist. Amidst the obstructions Captain Cook was ex- posed to from the ice islands which perpetually suc- ceeded each other, he derived one advantage from them, and that was a supply of fresh water. Though the melting and stowing away of the ice takes up some time, and is indeed rather tedious, this method of watering is otherwise the most expeditious our commander had ever known. The water produced was perfectly sweet and well tasted. Upon the ice islands, penguins, albatroses, and other birds were frequently seen. It had hitherto been the received opinion that such birds never go far from land, and that the sight of them is a sure indication of its vici- nity. That this opinion is not well founded, at least where ice islands exist, was now evinced by multi- plied experience. By Sunday, the 17th of January, Captain Cook reached the latitude oi' 67 deg. 15 min. south, wlien he could advance uo further. At this time the ice WHS entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent from east to west-south-west, without the least ap- pearance of any opening. The captain, therefore, thought it no longer prudent to persevere in sailing southward, especially as the summer was already half spent, and there was little reason to hope that is would be found practicable to get round the ice. Having taken this resolution, he determined to pro- ceed directly in search of the land which had lately been discovered by the French : and as, in pursuing hia purpose, the weather was clear at intervals, he spread the ships abreast four miles from each other. .i m ii It 160 CAPTAIN cook's In order the better to investigate any thing thai might lie in their way. On the Ist of February oui voyagers were in the latitude of 48 deg. 90 min. south, and in longitude 58 deg. 7 min. east, nearly in the meridian of the island of St. Mauritius. Tliis vaa the situation in which the land, said to have oeen discovered by the French, was to be expected ; 3ut as no signs of it had appeared, our commander bore away to the east. Captain Fumeaux, on the same day, informed Captain Cook that he had just seen & large float of sea or rock weed, and about it several of the birds called divers. These were cer- tain signs of the vicinity of land, though whether it lay to the east or west could not possibly be known. Our commander, therefore, formed the desigpi of proceeding in his present latitude, four or five de- grees of longitude to the west of the meridian he was now in, and then to pursue his researches eastward. The west and north-west winds, which had continued for some days, prevented him from carrying this purpose into execution. However, he was convinced, from the perpetual high sea he had lately met witli, that there could be no great extent of land to the west. While Cap til in Cook, on the next day, was steering eastward, Capt. Furneaux told him that he though the land was to the north-west of them, as he har at one time observed the sea to be smooth when tli€ wind blew in that direction. This observation was by no means conformable to the remarks which had been made by our commander himself. Nevertheless, such wa» his readiness to attend to every suggestion, that he resolved to clear up the point, if the wind v'ould admit of his getting to the west in any rea- sonable time. The wind, by veering to the north, (lid admit of his pursuing the search ; and the result of it was his conviction, that if any land was near, it could only be an island of no considerable extent. Captain Cook and his philosophical friends, while they were traversing this part of the soutliern ocean SECOND VOYAOB. IM paid pnrtlcnlar attention to tlie variation of the com- pass, which they found to be from 27 i\e^. 50 min., to 30 deg, 26 min. west. Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29 (leg. 4 min., was the nearest the truth, as it coincided with the variation observed on board the Adventure. One unaccountable circum- stance is worthy of notice, though it did not now occur for the first time. It is, that wlien the sun was on the starboard of the ship, the variation was the least ; and when on the larboard side, the greatest. On the 8th, our commander, in consequence of no signals having been answered by the Adventure, had reason to apprehend that a separation had taken place. After waiting two days, during which guns were kept discharging, and false fires were burned in the night, the fact was confirmed ; so that tli6 Resolution was obliged to proceed alone in her voy- apre. As she pursued her course, penguins and otiier birds, from time to time, appeared in great numbers, the meeting with which gave our navigators some hopes of finding land, and occasioned various specu- lations with rpj^ard to its situation. Experience, however, convinced them that no stress was to be laid on such hopes. They were so often deceived, that they coula no longer look upon any of the oceanic birds, which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of the vicinity of land. In the morning of the 17th, between midnight and three o'clock, lights were seen in the heavens, similar to those which are known in the northern hemisphere by the name of the Aurora Borealis. Captain Cook had never heard that an Aurora Borealis had bet^n seen before. The ofiicer of the watch observed tliat it sometimes broke out in spiral rays, and in a cir- cular form ; at which time its lights were very strong, and its appearance beautiful. It was not perceived to have any particular direction. On the contrary, at various times it was conspicuous in diiferent parts III nil ''i ?■ I 153 CAPTAIN COOK'S of the heavens, and diffused its light tlirougbout the whole atmospiiere. On the20tii,ournavigatorB imagined that they saw land to the eouth-west. I'iieir conviction of its real existence was so strong, that they had no doubt of the matter ; and accordingly they endeavoured to work up to it, in doing which the weather wat ^vourable to their purpose. However, what hud been taken for land proved only to be clouds, which in the evening entirely disappeared, and left a clear horizon, in which nothing could be discerned but ice islands. At night the Aurora Borealis was again seen, and the appearance it assumed was very brilliant and lumi- nous. It first discovered itself in the east, and in a short time spread itself over the whole lieavens. In the night of the2dd, when the ship was in lati- tude 61 deg. 52 min. south, and longitude 95 deg. 2 mln. east, the weather being exceeding stormy, thick and hazy, with sleet and sno our voyagers were on every side surrounded with danger. In such a situa- tion, it was natural for them to wish for daylight ; but daylight, when it came, served only to increase their apprehensions, by exhibiting those huge moun- tains of ice to their view, which the darkness hud preyented them from seeing. Tiiese unfavourable clrcumstai.l V ( :'»V i: n\i ffiT / > . , 1 • 158 CAPTAIN COOK'ft South Seaa. When the chief was carried into the cabin, he viewed every part of it with some degree of surprise ; but it was not possible to fix his atten- tion to any one object for a single moment. The worlds of art appeared to him in the same light as those of nature, and were equally distant from his powers of comprehension. He and his daughter seemed to be the most struck with the number of the decks, and other parts of the ship. As Captain Cook proceeded in examining Dusky Bay, he occasionally met with some few more of the natives, with regard to whom he used every mode of conciliation. On the 20th, the chief and his family, who had been more intimate with our navigators than any of the rest of the Indians, went away, and never returned again. This was the more extraordi- nary, as in all his visits he had been gratified with presents. From different persons, he had got nine or ten hatchets, and three or four times that number of large spike-nails, besides a variety of other articles. So far as these things may be deemed riches in New Zealand, he was undoubtedly become by far the most wealthy man in the whole country. One employment of our voyagers, while in Dusky Bay, consisted in seal-hunting, an animal which was found serviceable for three purposes. The skins were made use of for riggirg, the fat afforded oil for the lamps, and the fiesh was eaten. On the 24th, the Captain having five geese remaining of those he had brought with him from the Cape of Good Hope, went and left them at a place to which he gave the name of Goose Cove. Tliis place he fixed upon for two reasons ; first, because there were no inliabitants to disturb them; and secondly, because here was the greatest supply of proper food : so that he had no doubt of their breedhig, and hoped that in time they might spread over the whole country, to its eminent advantage. Some days afterwards, when every thing belonging to the bliip had been rcmovco I •I li SECOND VOYAGE. 159 from the shore, he set fire to the topWi'od in order to dry a piece of ground, which he du^ up and sowed with several sorts of garden seeds* The soil, indeed, was not such as to promise much success to the planter : but it was the best that could be discovered. The 25th of April was the eighth fair day our people had successively enjoyed; and there was reason to believe that such a circumstance was very uncommon in tlie place where they now lay, and at tiiat season of the year. This favourable weather afforded them the opportunity of more speedily com- pleting their wood and water, and of putting tlie oliii) into a condition for sea. On the evening of tiie !;25th, it began to rain ; and the weather was after- wards extremely variable, being, at times, in a high degree wet, cold, and stormy. Nothing, however, prevented Captain Cook from prosecuting, with his usual sagacity and diligence, his search into every part of Subky Buy ; and as there are few places in New Zealand where necessary refreshments iflay be io plentifully obtained, as hi this bay, he has taken care to give such a description of it, and of the ad- jacent country, as may be of service to succeeding ::sivigators. Although this country lies far remote from what is now the trading part of the world, yet, ds lie justly observes, we can by no means tell what use future ages may derive from the discoveries made m the present. The various anchoring places are delineated on our commander's chart, and the most convenient of them ue has particularly described. Not only about Dusky Bay, but through all the southern parts of the wes- cent coast of Tavai-poenammo, the country is exceed- ingly mountainous. As Dusky Bay presented many advantages to our navigators, so it was attended with some disagreeable circumstances. There were greak numbers of small black sand Hies, which were troublesome to a decree that our connuander had never ex^rieiiced betore. '^■■'^^ 160 CAPTAIN cook's Another evil arose from the continual quii!itity ot rain that occi rred in the bay. This might, indeed, in part proceed from the season of the year ; but it IS probable that the country must at all times be subject to much wet weather, in consequence of the vast height and vicinity of the mountains. It was remarkable that the rain, though our people w^ere perpetually exposed to it, was not productive of any evil consequences. On the contrary, such of the men as were sick and complaining when they entered the bay, recovered daily, and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous. So happy a circumstance could only be attributed to the healthiness of the place, and the provisions which it afforded ; among which the beer was a very material article. The inhabitants of Dusky Bay are of the same race with the other natives of New Zealand, speak the same language, and adhere nearly to the same customs. Their mode of life appears' to be a wan- derings one ; and though they are few in number, no traces were remarked of their families bein^ con- nected together in any close bonds of union or friendship. While the Resolution lay in the bay, Mr. Wales made a variety of scientific observations relative to latitude and longitude, the variation of the compass, and the diversity of the tides. When Captain Cook left Dusky Bay, he directed his course for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he ex> pected to find the Adventure. This was on the 11th of May, and nothing remarkable occurred till the 17th, when the wind at once flattened to a calm, the sky became suddenly obscured by dark dense clouds, and there was every prognostication of a temnest. Soon after, six water-spouts were seen, four of wnich rose and spent themselves between the ship and the land ; the fifth was at a considerable distance, on the other side of the vessel; and the sixth, the progres- sive motion of which was not in a straight but in a i- ft r SECOND VOYAGE. 161 crooked Ibicil, passed within fifty yards of the stem of the Resolution, without producing any evil effect. As the captain had been informed that the firing of a gun would dissipate water-spouts, he was sorry that he had not tried the experiment. But though he was near enough, and had a gun ready for the purpose, his mind was so deeply engaged in viewing these extraordinary meteors, that he forgot to give the necessary directions. On the next day, the Resolution came within sight of Queen Charlotte's Sound, where Captain Cook had the satisfaction of discovering the Adventure ; and both ships felt uncommon joy at thus meeting again after an absence of fourteen weeks. As the events which happened to Captain Fumeaux during the separation of the two vessels do not fall within the immediate design of the present narrative, it may be sufficient to observe, that he had an opportunity of examining, with somewhat more accuracy than had hitherto been done. Van Dieraan's Land ; and hia opinion was, that there are no straits between this land and New Holland, but a very deep bay. He met likewise, with further proofs that the natives of New Zealand are eaters of human flesh. The morning after Captain Cook's arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, he went himself, at day-break, to look for scurvy-grass, celery, and other vegetables, and had the good fortune to return with a boat-load la a very short time. Having found that a sufficient quantity of these articles might be obtained for the crew^ of both the ships, he gave orders that they sliouid be boiled with wheat and portable broth every tia for breakfast, and peas and broth for dinner. Experience had taught him that the vegetables now iiitMitioued, when thus dressed, are extremely bene- licial to seamen, in removing the various scorbutic complaints to which they are subject. Our commander had entertained a desire of visitlnff i\ 1 Dieman's Land, in order to inform himself M M .if ;l iH I iij r' I m I 2 'i IG2 CAPTAIN COOK'd vvhetlier it made a part of New Holland. But as this point had been in a great measure cleared up by Captain Fumeaux, he came to a resolution to con- tinue his researches to the east, between the latitudes of 41 deg. and 46 de^. ; and he directed accordingly that the ships should be got readv for putting to sea as soon as possible. On the 20th, he sent on shore the only ewe and ram that remained of those which, with the intention of leaving them in this country, he had broup^ht from the Cape of Good Hope. Soon after he visited several gardens which, by order of Captain Fumeaux, had been mad e, and planted with various articles ; all of which were in such a flou- rishing state, that, if duly attended to, they pro- raised to be ofgreat utility to the natives. The next day Captain Cook himself set some men to work to form a garden on Long Island, which he stocked with different seeds, and particularly with the roots of turnips, carrots, parsnips, and potatoes. These were the vegetables that would be of the most real use to the Indians, and of these it was easy to give them an idea, bv comparing them with such roots as they themselves knew. On the 22d, Capt. Cook received tlie unpleasant intelligence that the ewe and ram which, with so much care and trouble, he had brought to this place, were both of them found dead. It was supposed that they had eaten some poisonous plant, and by this accident all the captain's hopes of stock- ing New Zealand with a breed of sheep were instantly blasted. The intercourse which our great nevigator had with the inhabitants of the country, during this his second visit to Queen Charlotte's SounJ^ was of a friendly nature. Two or three families took up their abode near the ships, and employed themselves daily in fishing and in supplying the English with the fruits of their labour. No small advantage hence accrued to our people, who were by no means sucb expert fishers as the natives nor wuru any of uur SECOliJ) yOYA02«. 163 But as . up by con- titudes rdingly : to sea a. shore whicby )untry, Soon rder of id with a ilou- !y pro- tie next York to stocked le roots !se were 1 use to hem an Eis they eceived nd ram )rought It was 3 plant, ' stock- istantly methods of fishing equal to theirs. Thus, in almosi eveiy state of society, particular arts of life are car« ried to perfection ; and there is something which the most polished nations may learn from the most barbarous. On the 2d of June, when the Resolution and Ad- venture were almost ready to put to sea, Capt. Cook sent on shore, on the east side of the Sound, two goats, a male and female ; and Captain Furneaux left near Cannibal Cove a boar and two breedings sows. The gentlemen had little doubt that the country would in time be stocked with these animals, pro- vided they were not destroyed by the Indians before they became wild. Afterwards there would be no danger ; and as the natives knew nothing of their being left behind, it was hoped that it might be some time before they would be discovered. It is remarkable, that during Captain Cook's second visit to Queen Charlottes's Sound, he was not able to recollect the face of any one person whom he had seen three years before : nor did it once appear that even a single Indian had the least know- ledge of our commander, or of any of our people who had been with him in his last voyage. Hence he thought it highly probable that the greatest part of the natives who inhabited this Sound in the beginning of the year 1770 had either since been driven out of it, or had removed, of their own accord, to some other si nation. Not one-third of the inhabitants were tluTe now that had been seen at that time. Their strong-hold on the point of Motuara was deserted, and in every part of the Sound many forsaken habita- tions were discovered. In the captain's opinion, there was not any reason to believe that the place had ever been very populous. From comparing the two voy- ages together, it may be collected that the Indians of Eaheinomauwe are in somewhat of a more improved state of society than those of Tavai-poenammo. Partof the 4th of June was employed by Captain i ■; r If •i I'-'; II w. 1"^^ 164 CAPTAIN COOK*« Cook in visiting a chief and a whole tribe of the natives, consisting of between ninety and a hundred persons, including men, women, and cliildren. After the captain had distributed some presents among these people, and shown to the chief the gardens which had been made, he returned on board, and spent the remainder of the day in the celebration of his royal master's nativity. Captain Furneaux and all his officers were invited upon the occasion ; and the seamen were enabled, by a double allowance, to partake of the general iojr. As some might think it an extraordinary step in our commander to proceed in discoveries so far south as forty-six degrees of latitude in the very depth of winter, he has recorded his motives for this part of his couduct. Winter, he acknowledges is hy no means favourable for discoveries. Nevertheless it appeared to him to be necessary that something should be done in that season, in order to lessen the work in which he was engaged, and lest he should not he able to finish the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific Ocean in the ensuing sum- mer. Besides, if he should discover any land in his route to the east, he would be ready to begin to ex- plore it as soon as ever the season should be favour- able. Independently of all these considerations, he had little to fear — having two good ships well pro- vided, and both the crews being healthy. Where, then, could he better employ his time ? If be did nothing more, he was at least in hopes of being ena- bled to point out to posterity that these seas may be navigated, and that it is practicable to pursue dis- coveries even in the depth of winter. Such was the ardour of our navigator for prosecuting the ends of his voyage, in circumstances which would have induced most men to act a more cautious part ! During Captain Cook's stay In the Sound, he had observed that the second visit to this country had not mended the morals of ei^hc^r sex. He had always SECOND VOYAGE. 165 lOokcd upon the females of New Zealand as more chaste than the generality of Indian women. What- ever favours a few of them might have granted to the people in the Endeavour, such intercourse usually took place in a private manner, and did not appear to be encouraged by the men. But now Captain Cook was told that the male Indians were the chief promoters of this shameful traffic, and that for a spike-nail, or any other thing that they valued, they would oblige the women to prostitute themselves, whether it were agreeable or contrary to their inclinations. At the same time no regard was paid to the privacy which decency required. The account of this fact must be read with concern by every well-wisher to the good order and happi- ness of society, even without adverting to considera- tions of a higher nature. On the 7th of June, Captain Cook put to sea from Queen Charlotte's Sound, with the Adventure in com- 8 any. I shall omit the nautical part of the route from few Zealand to Otaheite, which continued till the I5th of August ; and shall only select such circumstances as are more immediately suitable to the design of the present narrative. It was found, on the 29th of July, that the crew of the Adventure were in a sickly state. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were rendered incapable of duty by the scurvy and flux. At this time no more than three men were on the sick list on board the Resolution, and only one of these was attacked with the scurvy. Some others, however, began to discover the symptoms of it ; and accordingly recourse was had to wort, marmalade of carrots, and the rob of lemons and oranges, with the usual success. Captain Cook could not account for the prevalence of the scurvy being so much greater in the Adventure than in the Resolution, unless it was owing to the crew of the former being more scorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than the crew of the latter. t 106 CAPT/klN cook's 'I >■ and to their eatini^ few or no vegetables wliile they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound. This arose partly from their want of knowing the right sorts, and partly from the disiilce which seamen have to the introduction of a new diet. Their aversion to any unusual change of food is so great, that it can only be overcome by the steady and persevering example and authority of a commander. Many of Captain Cook's people, officers as well as common sailors, disliked the boiling of celery, scurvy-grass, and other greens, with peas and wheat : and by some the provisions thus prepared were refused to be eaten. But as this had no effect on the captain's conduct, their prejudice gradually subsided ; they began to like their diet as much as the rest of their companions : and at length there was hardly a man in the ship who did not attribute the escape of the crew from the scurvy to the beer and vegetables which had been made use of at New Zea* land. Henceforward, whenever the seamen came to a place where vegetables could be obtained, our com- mander seldom found it necessary to order them to be gathered ; and if they were scarce, happy was the erson who could first lay hold of them. -'':^ " On the 1st of August, when the ships were in the latitude of 25 deg. 1 min. and the longitude of ^34 deg. 6 min. west, they were nearly in the same si.u- ation with that which is assigned bv Capt. Carteret for Pitcaim's Island, discovered by him in 1767. For this island, therefore, our voyagers diligently looked, but thev saw nothing. According to the longitude in which he had placed it. Captain Cook must have passed it fifteen leagues to tne west. But as this was uncertain, he didnot think it prudent to lose any time in searching for it, as the sickly state of the Adventure's people required as speedy an arrival as possible to a place of refreshment. A sight of it, however, would have been of use in verifying or cor- recting, not only the longitude of Pitcaim's Island, but ot the others discovered by Captain Carteret m SECOND VOYAGB. 167 f tJi«J I i that neighbourhood. It is a diminution of the value of that gentleman's voyage, that his longitude wus not confirmed by astronomical observations, and that hence it was liable to errors, the correction of whicli was out of his power. As Captain Cook had now got to the northward of Captain Carteret's tracks, he no longer entertained any hopes of discovering a continent. Islands were ail that he could expect to find, until he returned again to the souih. In this and his former voyage, he had crossed the ocean in the latitude of 40 de^^'. and upwards, without meeting any thing which could in the least Induce him to believe that he should attain the great object of his pursuit. Every circumstance concurred to convince him, that between the meridian of America and New Zealand, there is no southern continent ; and that there is no continent further to the south, unless in a very high latitude. This, however, was a point too importaur to be left to opinions and conjectures. It was to bb determined by facts ; and the ascertainment of it was app(«4nted, by our commander, for the employment of the ensuing summer. It was the 6th of August before the ships had the advantage of the trade wind. This they got at south- east, being at that * me in the latitude of 19 deg. td6 min. south, and tht longitude of 131 deg. 32 min. west. As Captain CtK>k had obtained the south- east trade wind, he directed his course to tlie west-north-west, not only with a view of keeping in with the strength of the wind, but also to get to the north of the islands discovered in his for- mer voyage, that he mi^ht have a chance of meeting with any other islands which might lie in the way. It was in the track which had been pur- sued by M. de Bougainville that our commander now pircceeded He was sorry that he could not spare time to 8 ill to the north of this track ; but at present, on accou )t oi the sickly state of tiie Adventure's If, f m m ''■k\\ H!; ■>. aaSi^ ^'x}- ^< ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 11.25 US [If 124 ■ 10 It 1^0 Hi 1^ 2.2 2.0 U 11.6 _ScienoBs Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STRiET WEBSTER, N.Y. M5E0 (716)872-4503 '^ * ..-^ 1 7. 6^ ^ ^ 168 CAPTAIN cook's crew, the arriving at a plsce where refreshraentR could be procured was an object superior to that of discovery. To four of the islands which were passed by Captain Cook, he pive the names of Resolution Island, Doubtful Island, Fumeaux Island, and Adventure Island. Thev are supposed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bougainville, and these with several others, which constitute a cluster of low and half-drowned isles, that gen> tleman distinguished by the appellation of the Dangerous Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced our navigi&tors that they were surrounded by them, and that it was highly neces- sary to proceed with the utmost caution, especially in the ni^^ht. Early on the morning of the I5th of August, the ships came within sight of Osnaburg Island, or Maitea, which had been discovered by Capt. Wallis. Soon after. Captain Cook acquainted Capt. Fumeaux that it was his intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near the south-east end of Otaheite, for the purpose of procuring what refreshments he could from that part of the island, before he went down to Matavia. At six in the evening the island was seen bearing west, and our people continued to advance towardii it till midnight, when they brought to, till four o'clock :n the morning ; after which they sailed in for the land, with a fine breeze at east. At day-break they found themselves within the distance of half a league from the reef; and at the same time the breeze began to fail them, and was at last succeeded by a calm. It now became necessary for the boats to be hoisted out, in order to tow off the ships ; but all the efforts of our voyagers to keep them from being carried near the reef were insufficient for the purpose. As the calm continued, the situation of the vessels be- came still more dangerous. Captain Cook, however, entertained hopes of getting round the western point of the reef, and into tlie bay. But, about two o'clock SECOKD VOYAGB. 16U in tlie afternoon, when he came before an opening or break of the reef, through which he had flattered himself that he might get with the ships, he found on sending to examine it, there was not a sufficient depth of water. Nevertheless this opening caused such an in-draugnt of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving fatal to the Resolution : for as soon as the vessels got into the stream, they were carried towards the reef with great impetuosity. The moment the captain perceived this, he ordered one of the warping machines, which was held in readiness, to be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope ; but it did not produce the least effect, and our navigators had now in prospect the horrors of shipwreck. They were not more than two cables' length from the breakers : and though it was the only probable method which was left of savmg the ships, they could find no bottom to anchor. An anchor, however, they did drop ; but before it took hold,*and brought them up, the Resolution was in less tlian three fathom water, and struck at every fall of the sea, which broke close under her stem in a dread- ful surf, and threatened her crew every moment with destruction. Happily the Adventure brought up without striking. Presently the Resolution's peo- ple carried out two kedge anchors, with hawsers to each ; and these found ground a little without the bower. By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower anchor, the ship was got afloat, where Captain Cook and his men lay for some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every mmute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two by the rocks. At length the tide ceased to dct in the same direction, upon which the captain ordered all the boats to try to tow off the vessel. Having found this to be practicable, the two kedges were hove up ; and at that moment a light air came off from the land, by which the boats were so much assisted, tlmt the Resolution soon got clear of all i\ l:^ i 170 CAPTAIN COOK'S danger. Our commander then ordered all tlie boats to assist the Adventure ; but, before they reached her, she was under sail with the land breeze, and in a little thne joined her companion, leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable, and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus were our voy- agers once more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island at which, but a few days before, they had most ardently wished to arrive. It was a peculiar happy circumstance that the calm continued after bringing the ships into so dangerous a state ; for if the sea-breeze, as is usually the case, bad set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost, and probably the Adventure likewise. During the time in which the English were in this critical situation, a number of the natives were either on board, or near the vessels in their canoes. Never- theless they seemed to be insensible of our people's danger, showing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when the ships were striking ; and they went away a little before sun-set, quite unconcerned. Though most of them knew Captain Cook again, and many inquired for Mr. Banks and others who had bern with the captain before, it was remarkable that not one of them asked for Tiipia. On the 17th, the Kesolution and Adventure anchored inOaiti-piha Bay, immediately upon which they were crowded with the inhabitants of the coun- try, who brought with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananas, apples, yams, and other roots, which were exchanged for nails and beads. To some who called themselves chiefs, our commander made presents of shirts, axes, and several articles besides, in return for which they promised to bring him hogs and fowls — a promise which they did not perform, and which, as might be judged from their conduct, they had never had the least intention of performing. In the after- noon of the same day, Captain Cook landed, in com- pany with Captain Furneaux, for the purpose oi SECOND 70TAOB. 171 I yiewing tlie waterinsr-place, and of sounding the dis- position of the natives. The article of water, which was now much wanted on board, he found might con- veniently be obtained, and the inhabitants behaved with great civility* Notwithstanding this civility, nothing was brought to market the next day but fruit and roots, though it was said that many hogs were seen about the houses in the neighbourhood. The cry was, that they belonged to Waheatoua, the earee de hi, or king, who had not yet appeared. Nor indeed any other chief of note. Among the Indians who came on board the Resolution^ and no small number of whom did not scruple to call themselves earees, there was one of this sort, who had been entertained in the cabin most of the day, and to all of whose friends Captain Cook had made presents, as well as liberally to himself. At length, however, he was «jaught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out of the quarter gallery. Vari- ous complaints of the like nature being, at the same time, made against the natives who were on deck, our commander turned them all out of the ship. His cabin guest was very rapid in his retreat, and the capfain was so exasperated at his behaviour, that after the earee had got to some distance from the Resolution, he fired two muskets over his head, by which he was so much terrified tlmt he quitted his canoe, aud took to the water. Captain Cook then sent a boat to take the canoe; but when the boat approached the shore, the people on land began to pelt her with stones. The Captain, therefore, being in some pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, went himself m another boat to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the coast, which made all the Indians retire from the shore, and he was suffered to bring away two canoes without the least show of opposition. In a few hours peace was restored, and the canoes were returned in the first person who came for them. J ml I It- I 172 CAPTAIN cook's it was not till the evening of this day that any one inquired after Tupia, and then the enquiry was made by only two or three of the natives. When they learned the cause of his death, they were perfectly satisfied ; nor did it appear to our commander that they would have felt a moment's uneasiness, if Tupia's decease had proceeded from any other cause than sickness. They were as little concerned about Ao- tourou, the man who had gone away with M. de Bougainville, but they were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and for several others, who had accom- panied Captain Cook in his former voyage. On the^th, one of the natives carried off a musket belonging to a guard on shore. Capt. Cook, who was himself a witness of the transaction, sent out some of his people after him ; but this would have been to very little purpose, if the thief had not been inter- cepted by several of his own countrymen, who pur- sued him voluntarily, knocked him down, and re- turned the musket to the £nglish. This act of justice prevented our commander from being placed m a disagreeable situation. If the natives had not given their immediate assistance, it would scarcely have been in his power to have recovered the musket by any gentle means whatever : and if he had been oi)liged to have recourse to other methods, he vva^ sure of losing more than ten times its value. aj.>i The fraud of one who appeard as a chief is per- haps not unworthy of notice. This man, in a visit to Captain Cook, presented him with a quantity of fruit, amonff which were a number of cocoa-nuts that had already been exhausted of their liquor by our neople, and afterwards thrown overboard. These the cnief had picked up> and tied so artfully in bundles, that at llrst the deception, was not perceived. When he was informed of it, without betraying the least emo- tion, and affecting a total ignorance of the matter, be opened two or three of the nuts himself, signified that he was satisfied of the fact, and then went on SECOND VOYAGE. 173 shore, and sent off a quantity of plaintains and bananas. The ingenuity and the impudence of fraud are not solely tlie production of polished society. Captain Cook, on the 2dd, had an interview with Waheatoua, the result of which was, that our navi- gators obtained on this day as much pork as fur- nished a meal to the crews of botli vessels. In the captain's last voyage, Waheatoua, who was then little more than a boy, was called Tearce ; but having succeeded to his father's authority, he had assumed his father's name. The fruits which were procured at Oaiti-piha Bav contributed greatly to the recovery of the sick people belonging to the Adventure. Many of them, who had been so ill as to be incapable of moving without assistance, were, in the compass of a few days, so far recovered, that they were able to walk about of themselves. When the Resolution entered the bay, she had but one scorbutic man on board. A marine, who had long been sick, and who died the second day after her arrival, of a complication of disorders, had not the least mixture of the scurvy. On the 24th, the ships put to sea, and arrived the next evening in Matavia Bay. Before they could come to an anchor, the decks were crowded with the natives, many of whom Captain Cook knew, and by most of whom he was well remembered. Among a large multitude of people, who were collecied together upon the shore, was Otoo, the king of tiie island. Our commander paid him a visit on tue following day at Oparre, the place of his resi- lience ; and tound him to be a fine, personable, well- made man, six feet high, and about thirty years of « age. The qualities of his mind, were not corres- pondent to his external appearance ; for when Capt. Cook endeavoured to obtain from him the promise of a visit on board, he acknowledged that he was afraid of the guns, and indeed manifested m all his actions that lie was a prince of a timorous disposition. if I 174 CAPTAIN cook's Upon the captain's return from Oparre, he found the tents, and the astronomer's observations set up, on the same spot from which the transit of Venus had been observed in 1769. Tlie siclc, beins twenty in number from tlie Adventure, and one uom the liesolution, aU of whom were ill of the scurvy, he ordered to be landed : and he appointed a guard of marines on shore, under the roinmand of Lieutenant Edgcurabe. On the 27th, Otoo was prevailed upon, with some degree of reluctance, to pay our commander a visit. He came attended with a numerous train, and brought with him fruits, a hog, two large fishes, and a quantity of cloth, for which he and all his reLinuo were grati- fied with suitable presents. When Captain Cook conveyed his guests to land, he was met by a vene- rable iady, the mother of the late Toutaha, who seized him by both hands, and burst into a fiood of tears, saying, Toutaha tiyo no toutee matty Toutaha; that is, '' Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook is dead." He was so much affected with her beha- viour, that it would have been impossible for him to Mave refrained from mingling his tears with hers, hud not Otoo, who was displeased with the interview, taken him from her. It was with difficulty that the captain could obtain permission to see her again, when he gave her an axe and some other articles. Captain Furneaux at this time presented the king with two fine goats, which, if no accident befell them, might be expected to multiply. Several days had passed in a friendly intercourse with the natives, and In the procuring of provisions, when, in the evening < ^' the 30th, the gentlemen on board the Resolution were alarmed with the cry of murder, and with a great noise on shore, near the bot- tom of the bay, and at a distance from the English encampment. Upon this, Capt. Cook, who suspected that some of his own men were concerned in the affair, immediately dispatched an armed boat to know the BECOND VOYAOB. 175 cause of the disturbance, and to bring off such of his people as should be found in the place, lie sent also to tlie Adventure, and to the post on shore, to learn who were missing; for none but those who were upon duty were absent from the Resolution. The boats speedily returned with three marines and a seaman. Some others likewise were taken, belong- ing to the Adventure; and all of them being put under confinement, our commander, the next morn- ing, ordered them to be punished according to their deserts. He did not find that any mischief had been 'ione, and the men would confess nothing. Some liberties wliicli they had taken with the women had probably given occasion to the disturbance. To what- ever cause it was owing, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled from their habitation in ti;e dead of the night, and ti.e alarm was spread many miles along the coast. In the morning, when Capt. Cook went to visit Otoo by appointment, he found that he had removed, or rather fled, to a great dis- tance from the usual place of his abode. After arriving where he was, it was some hours before the captain could be admitted to see him, and then he complained of the riot of the preceding evening. The sick being nearly recovered, the water com- pleted, and the necessary repairs of the ships finished, Captain Cook determined to put to sea without delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, he ordered every thing to be removed from the shore, and the vessels to be unmoored, in wiiich employment his people were engaged the greater part of the day. In tlie afternoon of the same day, Lieutenant Pickersgill returned from Attahourou, to which place he had been sent by the captain for the purpose of procuring some hogs that had been promised. In this expedi- tion the lieutenant had seen the celebrated Oberea, wLo has been so much the object of poetical fancy. Her situation was very humble, compared with what It had t'onnerlv been. She was not onlv altered il ii w 176 CAPTAIN cook's much for the worse in her person^ but appeared to be poor, and of little or no consequence or authority hi the island. In the evening, a favourable wind having sprung up, our commander put to sea, on which oc- casion he was obliged to dismiss his Otaheitan friends sooner than they wished to depart, but well satisfied with his kind and liberal treatment. From Matavia bay, Captain Cook directed his course for the island of Huaheine, where he intended to touch. This island he reached the next day, and early in the morning of the 3d of September, made sail for the harbour of Ovvharre, in which he soon came to an anchor. The Adventure, not happening to turn into the harbour with equal facility, got ashore on the north side of the channel ; but, by the timely assistance which Captain Cook had previously provided in case such an accident should occur, she was got off without receiving any damage. As soon as both the ships were in safety, our commander, together with Captain Furneaux, landed upon the island, and was received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. A trade immediately commenced ; so that our navigators had a fair prospect of behig plentifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls, which, to people in their situation, was a very desirable cir- cnmstance. On the 4th, Lieut. Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a trading party, towards the south end of the isle. Another trading party was also sent on shore, near the ships, which party Capt. Cor k attended himself, to see that the business was pruperly conducted at tlie first setting out, this being a point of no small importance. Every thing being settled to his mind, he went, accompanied by Capt. Furneaux and Mr. Forster, to pay a visit to his old friend Oree, the chief of the island. This visit was preceded by many preparatory ceremonies. Among other things the chief sent to our commander tiie inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which he had left with him in July 1769. It was in SECOND YOTAUB. 177 ired to be tliority in id having vhich oc- in friends satietied icted his intended day, and }r, made he soon appening lity, got t, by the reviously 3cur, she As soon imander, ipon the with the menced ; of behig 3, which, able cir- 11 sailed irds the irty was ty Capt. nes3 waa lis being ng being )y Capt. > his old isit was Among ider tlie pewter, t was in the bag that Captain Cook had made for it, together with a piece of counterfeit £nglish coin, and a few beads, which had been put in at tlie same time ; whence it is evident that particular care had been taken of the wiiole. After the previous ceremonies had been discliurged, the captain wanted to go to the king, but he was informed that the king would come to him. Accordingly Oree went up to our commander, and fell on his neck, and embraced him; nor was it a ceremonious embrace, for the tears which trickled down the venerable old man's cheeks suHiciently bespoke the language of his heart. The presents which Captain Cook made to the chief on this occasion, consisted of the most valuable arti- cles he had, for he regarded him as a father. Oree, in return, gave the captain a hog, and a quantity ot cloth, promising that all the wants of the Enelish should be supplied ; and it was a promise to which he faithfully adhered. Indeed, he carried his kind- ness to Captain Cook so far, as not to fail sending Lim every day for his table a plentiful supply of the very best of ready-dressed fruit and roots. Hitherto all things had gone on in the most agree- able manner ; but on Monday the 6th several circum- stances occurred, which rendered it an unpleasant and troublesome day. When our commander went to the trading-place, he was informed that one of the inhabitants had beliaved with remarkable insolence. This man was completely equipped in the war habity had a club in each hand, and seemed bent upon mis- ohief. Captain Cook therefore took the clubs from him, broke them before his eyes, and with some dif- ficulty compelled him to retire. About the same time Mr. Sparrman, who had imprudently gone alone to botanize, was assaulted by two men, who stripped him of every thing which he had about him, except- ing his trousers, and struck him again and again with his own hanger, though happily without doing him any harm. When thev had accomplished their «0 N ii. \l If m^ ,i'i 178 OAPTAIN COOK'S puTpone, they made off; after which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him to tiie trading place, where the inha • bitantB, in a large number were assembled. The initant that Mr. Sparrroan appeared in the condition now deacribed, they all fled with the utmost precipi- tation. Captain Cfook having recalled a few of the Indians, and convinced them that he should take no step to mjure those who were innocent, went to Oree. to complain of the outrage. When the chief haa heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, and many other of the inhabitants did the same. After the first transports of his grief had subsided, he be- gan to expostulate with his people, telling them, (for so his language was understood by the English) how well Captain Cook had treated them, both in this and his former voyage, and how base it was in tlicm to commit such actions. He then took a minute account of the thing[s of which Mr. Sparrman had been robbed, and, after having promised to use his utmost endeavours for the recovery of them, desired to go into the captain's boat. At this the natives, apprehensive doubtless for the safety of their prince, expressed the utmost alarm, and used every argu- ment to dissuade him from so rash a measure. All their remonstrances, however, were in vain. He hastened into the boat; and as soon as they saw that their beloved chief was wholly In our command- er's iiower, they set up a ereat outcry. Indeed, their griet was inexpressible ; uiey prayed, entreated, nay, attempted to pull him out of the boat; and every face was bedewed with tears. Even Captain Cook himself was so moved by their distress, that he united his entreaties with theirs, but all to no purpose. 4>ree insisted upon the captain's coming into the boat, which was no sooner done than he ordered it to be put off. His sister was the only person among the Indians who behaved with a becoming magnani- mity on this occasion; fox with a spirit equal to that BECOMD VOYAGE. 179 y of her royal brother, she alone did not oppose his going. It was his design, in coming into the boat of the Bnglish, to proceed with them in search of the robbers. Accordingly he went with Capt. Cook as far as it wus convenient by water, when they landed, entered the country, and travelled bome miles inland : in doing whicli the chief led the way, and inquired after the criminals of every person whom he saw. In this search he would have gone to the very extre- mity of the island, if our commander, who did not ..hink the object worthy of so laborious a pursuit, had not refused to proceed any furtlier. Besides, as he intended to sail the next momin<^, and all man- ner of trade was stopped in consequence of the alarm of the natives, it became the more necessary for him to return, that he might restore things to their for- mer state. It was with great reluctance that Oree ivaj prevailed upon to discimtinue the search, and to content himself with sending, at Captain Cook's re- Juest, some of his people for the things which had een carried off. When he and the captain had got back to the boat, they found there the chiefs sister, and several other persons, who had travelled by land to the place. The English gentlemen immediatelv stepped into the boat, in order to return on board, without so much as asking Oree to accompany t^em ; notwithstanding which, he insisted upon doing it ; nor could the opposition and entreaties of those who were about him mducehim to desist from his purpose. His sister followed his example, uninfluenced, on this occasion, by the supplications and tears of her daugh ter. Captain Cook amply rewarded the chief and his sister, for the confidence they had placed in him ; and, after dinner, conveyed tnem both on shore, wliere some hundreds of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced Oree with tears oi joy. All was now peace and gladness ; the inhabi- tants crowded in from every part with such a plenti- liii supply of hogs, fowls, and vegetable productions. I : '•; i< ill: i 1 'iii 180 CAPTAIN cook's that the English presently filled two boats, and the chief himself presented the captain with a large hog, and a quantity of fruit. Mr. Sparrman's hanger, the only thing of value which he had lost, was brought back, togetlier with part of his coat, and our navigators were told that the remaining articles should be re- stored the next day. Some things which had been stolen from a party of officers, wiio had gone out a shooting, were returned in like manner. »>ii<^n The transactions of this day have been the more particularly related, as they show the high opinion which the chief had formed of our commander, and the unreserved confidence that he placed in his inte- grity and honour. Oree had entered into a solemn friendship with Captain Cook, according to all the forms which were customary in the country ; and he seemed to think that his friendship could not be broken by the act of any other person. It is justly observed by the captain, that another chief may never be found, who, under similar circumstances, will act in the same manner. Oree, indeed, had no* thing to fear ; for it was not our commander's inten- tion to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a niotiient longer than was agreeable to his own desire. Hut of this, how could he and his people be assured ? They were not ignorant that when he was once in Captain Cook's power, the whole force of the island would not be sufficient to recover him, and that they must have complied with any demands, however great, for his ransom. The apprehensions, theretbre, of the inhabitants, for their chief's and their own safety, had a reasonable foundation. £arly on the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, the captain went to pay his farewell visit to Oree, and took with him such presents as had not only a fancied value, but a real utility. He left also with the chief the inscription-plate that had before been in his possession, and another small oopper-plate, on which v/ete engraved these words; ** Anchof#d.h#i0> SECOND VOYAGB. 181 and his Britflnnic Majesty's ships Resolution and Ad- venture, September, 1773." These plates, together with some medals, were put into a ba^, of which Oree promised to take care, and to produce them to the first ship or ships that should arrive at the island. Having in return given a hog to Captain Cook, and loaded his boat with fruit, they took leave of each other, when the good old chiei embraced our com- mander with tears in his eyes. Nothing was said, at this interview, as to the rest of Mr. Sparrman's property. As it was early in the morning, the cap- tain judged that it had not been brought in, and be was not willing to speak of it to Oree, lest he should give him pain about things which there had not been time to recover. Tlie robbers having soon after- wards been taken, Oree came on board again to re- quest that our commander would go on shore, either to punish them, or to be present at their punishment ; but this not being convenient to him, he left them to the correction of their own chief. It was from the island of Huaheine that Captain Furneaux received into the ship, a young man named Oraai, a native of Ulietea, of whom so much has since been known and written. Of this choice Captain Cook at first disap- proved, as thinking that the youth was not a proper sample of the inliabitants of the Society Islands, being inferior to many of them in birth and acquired rank, and not having any peculiar advantage in point of shape, figure, or complexion. The captain after- wards found reason to be better satisfied with Omai's having accompanied our navigators to England. During the short stay of the vessels at Huaheine, our people were very successful in obtaining supplies of provisions. No less than three hundred hogs, be- sides fowls and fruit were procured ; and had the ships continued longer at the place, the quantity might have been greatly increased. Such was the (ertlUty of this smulV island, that none of these urti- !ii* U^i ih ! 11 m m it;' /^^ 183 CAPTAtN COOK'S cles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but appeared to be as plentiful as ever. From Haaheine our navigators sailed for Ulietea, where trade was carried on in the usual manrer^ ana a most friendly intercourse renewed between Captain Cook and Oree, the chief of the island. Here Tupia was inquired after with particular eagerness, and the inquirers were perfectly satisfied with the ac- count which was given of the occasion of the Indian's decease. * On the morning of the 15th , the English were sur- prised at finding that none of the inhabitants of Ulietea came off to the ships, as had hitherto been customary. As two men belonging to the Adventure had stayed on shore all night contrary to orders, Captain Cook's first conjectures were, that the na- tives had stripped them, ar i were afraid of the revenge which would be taken of the insult. This, however, was not the case. The men had been treated with great civility, and could assign no cause for the precipitate flight of the Indians All that the captain could learn was, that several were killed, and others wounded, by the guns of the English. This information alarmed him for the safety of some of our people who had been sent out in two boats to the island of Otaha. He determined, therefore, if possible, to see the chief himself. When he came up to him, Oree threw his arms round our commander's Deck, and burst into tears, in which he was accom- panied by all the women, and some of the men, so that the lamentation became general. Astonish- ment alone kept Captain Cook from joining in their crief. At least, the whole which he could collect from his inquiries was, that the natives had been alarmed on account of the absence of the English boats, and imagined that the captain, upon the sup- position of the desertion of his men, would use violent means for the recovery of his loss. When the matter was explained, it was acknowledged that not a single SECOND VOYAOB. 183 inhabitants, nor a single Englishman, had been hurt This groundless consternation disulayed in a strong lighty the timorous disposition or tlie people of tlie Society Islands. Our navigators were as successful in procuring provisions at Ulietea, as they had been at Huaheine. Captain Coolc judged that the number of hogs ob- tained amounted to four hundred or upwards ; many of them, indeed, were only roasters, while others ex- ceeded one hundred pounds in weight ; but the gene- ral run was from forty to sixty. A larger quantity was oflfered than the ships could contain ; so that our countrymen were enabled to proceed on their voyage, with no small degree of comtort and advantage. Our commander, by his second vbit to the Society Islands, gained a lurther knowledge of thehr general state, and of the customs of the innahitants. It ap- peared that a Spanish ship had been lately to Otaheite and the natives complained that a disease had been communicated to them by the people ^f the vessel which, accordin*^ to their account, affected the head, the throat, and the stomach, and at length ended in death. With regard to a certain disorder, the effects of which have so fatally been felt in the later ages of the world, Captain Cook's inquiries could not abso- lutely determine whether it was known to the islanders before they were visited by the Europeans. If it were of recent origin, the bitroduction of it was, without a dissentient voice, ascribed to the voyage of M. de Bougainville. One thing which our commander was solicitous to ascertain was, whether human sacrifices constituted a part of the religious customs of these people. The man of whom he made his inquiries, and several other natives, took some pains to exulain the matter ; but, from our people's ignorance of the language of the country, their explanation could not be understood. Captain Cook afterwards learned from Omai, that the mhabitants of the Society Islands offer human ll Id F. *vK 'H 184 CAPTAIN COOK'S sacrifices to the Supreme Being:. What relates to funeral ceremonies excepted, all the knowledge he could obtain concerning their religion was very im- perfect and defective. The captain had an opportunity in this voyage, of rectifying the great injustice which had beendone to the women of Otaheite, and the neighbouring isles. They had been represented as ready, without excep- tion, to grant the last favour to any man who would come up to their price ; but our commander found that this was by no means the case. The favours both of the married women and of the unmarried, of the better sort, were as difficult to be obtained in the Society Islands as in any other country whatever. Even with respect to the unmarried females of the lower class, the charge was not indiscriminately true. Tliere were many of these who would not ad- mit of indecent familiarities. The setting of this subject in a proper light must be considered as one of the agreeable effects of Captain Cook's secoud voyage. £very enlightened mind will rejoice at what conduces to the honour of hufnan nature in general, and of the female sex in particular. Chas- tity is BO eminently the glory of that sex, and indeed is so essentially connected with the good order of society, that it must be a satisfaction to reflect that there is no country, however ignorant or barbarous, in which this virtue is not regarded as an object of moral obligation. This voyage enabled our commander to gain some further knowledge concerning the geograpliv of the Society Isle* ; and he found it highly probable that Otaheite is of greater extent than he had computed it in his former estimation. The astronomers did not neglect to set up their observatories, and to make observations suited to their purpose. On the I7th of September, Captain Cook sailed from Ulietea, directing his course to the west, with tn inclination to tlie routh. Land was discovere ^erous. VVlien our people were in the latitude of 67 aeg. 5 min. soutli, they all at once got within such a cluster of tliese islands, together with a large quan- tity of loose pieces, that to keep clear of them was a matter of the utmost difficulty. On the 22d of the month, the Resolution was in the highest latitude she had yet reached : and circumstances now became so unfavourable that our commander thought of return- ing more to the north. Here there was no probability of finding any land, or a possibility of getting further south. To have proceeded, therefore, to the east in tills latitude, must have been improper, not only on account of the ice, but because a vast space of sea to the north must have been left unexplored, in which there might lie a large tract of country. It was only by visiting those parts that it could be determined ivhether such a supposition was well founded. As our navigators advanced to the north-east on the 24th, the ice islands increased so fast upon them, that at noon they could see nearly a hundred around them, besides an immense number of small pieces. In this situation they spent Christmas day, much in the same manner as tiiey had done in the former year. Happily our poeple had continual day light and clear weatlier ; for had it been so foggy as it was on some preceding days, nothing less tlian a miracle could iiave saved them from being dashed to pieces. While the Resolution was in tiie high latitudes, many of her company were attacked with a slight fever, occasioned by colds. The disorder, however yielded to the simplest remedies, and was generally removed in a few days. On the 5th of January, 1774, the ship not being then in much more than fifty deg. of latitude, there were only one or two persons sick. t M 190 CAPTAIN COOK'S After Captain Cook, agreeably to his late resola- tion, had traversed a large extent of ocean without di8covering l?nd, he again directed his course to the southward. By the 36th of the month, through ob- structions and difficulties, which, from their similar nature to those already mentioned, it would be tedious to repeat, he reached to the seventy-first degree of latitude. , Thus far had he gone : but to have pro- ceeded further would have been the hei^rht of roily and madness. It would have been exposing himself, his men, and his ship, to the utmost danger, and per- haps to destruction, without the least prospect of advantage. Tiie captain was of opinion, as indeed were most of the gentlemen .on board, that the ice now in sight extended quite to the pole, or might join to some land, to which it might be fixed from the earliest time. If, however, there be such land, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other ani- mals, than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. Though our commander had not only the ambition of going further than any one had done before, but of proceeding as far as it was possi- ble for man to go, he was the less dissatisfied with the interruption he now met with, as it shortened the dangers and hardships inseparable from the navii pose, if possible, to attain tlie length of Cape Horn in the ensuing November, when he should have the best part oi the summer bot'ore him to explore the southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. Great as was this design, our commander thought it capable of being carried into execution ; and when he commu- nicated it to his oHicers, he had the satisfaction of finding that it received their zealous and cheerful concurrence. They displayed the utmost readiness for executing in the most effectual manner, every measure he thought proper to adopt. With such good examples to direct them, tlie seamen were always obedient and alert : and on the present occa- sion, so far were they from wishing the voyage to be concluded, that they rejoiced at the prospect of its being prolonged another year, and of soon enjoying the benefits of a milder climate. In pursuing his course to the north, Capt. Cook became well assured that the discovery of Juan Fer- nandez, if any such were ever made, could be nothing more than a small island. At this time the captain was attacked by a bilious cholic, the violence of which confined him to his bed. The management of the ship upon this occasion was left to Mr. Cooper, the first officer, who conducted her entirely to his com- mander's satisfaction. It was several days before the most dangerous symptoms of Capt. Cook's dis- order were removed ; during which time Mr. Patten, the surgeon^ in attendhig upon him, manifested not only the skilfulness of a physician, but the tender- ness of a nurse. When the captain began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr. Forster, fell a sacri- fice to his tender stomach. There was no other fresh raent, whatever, on board, and he could eat not only of the broth which was made of it, but of the fiesh itself, when there was nothing else he was capable of tatfting. Thus did he derive nourishment and SECOND VOYAGE. IIK) strength from food which, to most people in I^uroyie would have been in the highest degree disgusting, and productive of sickness. The necessity" of th« case overcame every feeling of dislike. On the 11th of Alarch, our navigators came within sight of Easter Island, or Davi>*s Land ; their trans- actions at which place were of too little moiaent to deserve a particular recital. The inhabitants are in general, a slender race. In colour, features, and lan- guage, they bear such an affinity to the people of the more Western Isles, that there can be no doubt of their having been descended from one common original. It is indeed extraordinary that the same nation should have spread themselves to so wide an extent, as to take in almost a fourth part of the circumference of the globe. With regard to the disposition of the natives of Easter Island, it is friendly and hospitable, but they are as much addicted to stealing as any of their neighbours. The island itself has so little to recommend it, that no nation need to contend for the honour of its discovery. So sparing has Nature been of her favours to this spot, that there is in it no safe anchorage, no wood for fuel, no fresh water worth taking on board. The most remarkable objects in the country are some surprising gigantic statues, which were first seen by Roggewein. It was with pleasure that our commander quitted a place which could afford such slender acconiodn tions to voyagers, and directed his course for the Marquesas Islands. He had not been long at seu before he was again attacked by his bilious disorder. The attack, however, was not so violent as the former one had been. He had reason to believe that the return of his disease was owing to his having exposed and fatigued himself too much at Easter Island. On the 6th and 7th of April, our navigators came within sight of four Islands, which they knew to be the Marquesas. To one of them, whicn was a new discovery^ CaotaiA Cook gave the name of Hood's f? 1' I Hi ^t'i ft m m I- ' ^i . : 800 CAPlA/N COOK'S Island, after that of the young gentleman hr whotn it was first seen. As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor in Madre de Dlos, or Resolution Bay in the island of St. Christina, a traffic commenced, in the course of which the natives would frequently keep our goods without making any return. At last the captain was obliged to fire a rausket-ball ovei one man who had several times treated the English in this manner. This produced only a temporary efiTect. Too many of the Indians having come on board, our commander, who, was going in a boat to find a convenient place for mooring the ship, said to the officers, ** You must look well after these people, or they will certainly carry off some thing or other." Scarcely had he got into the boat, when he was in- formed that one had stolen an iron stanchion from the opposite gangway, and was carrying it off. Upon this he ordered his men to fire over the canoe, till> he could get round in the boat, but not to kill any one. Such, however, was the noise made by the natives, that the order was not heard, and the unhappy thief was killed at the first shot. All the Indians having retired with precipitation in consequence of this un- tiappy accident. Captain Cook followed them into the bay, prevailed upon some of them to come alongside his boat, and, by suitable presents, so far conciliated their minds, that their fears seemed to be in a greut measure allayed. The death of their countryman did uot cure them of their thievish disposition; but at length it. was somewhat restrained by their convic- tion that no distance secured them from the reach of our muskets. Several smaller instances of their talent of steaUng, the captain thought proper to overlook. The provisions obtained at St. Christina, were yams, plantains, bread-fruit, a few cocoa-nuts, fow]^, and small pigs. For a time, the trade was carried on upon reasonable terms; but the market was ai last ruined by the indiscretion of some young geit _=L SECOND yoYAQE. 21)1 Ueinen, who gave away in exchange various article's which the inhabitants had not seen before, and which captivated tlieir fancy above nails, or more useful iron tools. One of the gentlemen had given for a pig a very large quantity of red feathers, which he had got at Amsterdam. The effect of this was parti- cularly fatal. It was not possible to support the trade, in the manner in which it was now begun, even for a single day. When, therefore, our commander found that he was not likely to be supplied, on ::ny conditions, with sufficient refresliments, and that the island was neither very convenient for taking in wood and water, nor for affording the necessary repairs of the ship, he determined to proceed immediately to some other place, where the wants of his people could be effectually relieved. After having been nineteen weeks at sea, and having lived all that time upon salt diet, a change in their food could not avoid being peculiarly desirable; and yet, on their arrival at St. Christina, it could scarcely be as- serted that a single man was sick ; and there were but a few who had the least complahit of any kind. " This," says Captain Cook, ** was undoubtedly owing to the many anti-scorbutic articles we had on board, and to the great attention of the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply them in time." It may justly be added, that this was likewise owing to the singular care of the captain himself, and to the exertions of his authority in enforcing the excellent regulations which his wisdom and humanity had adopted. The chief reason for our commander's touching at the Marquesas Islands was to fix their situation, that being die only circumstance in which the nautical accouat of them given in Mr. Dalrymple's collection is deficient. It was further desirable to settle this point, as it would lead to a more accurate knowledge of Mendana's other discoveries. Accordingly, Capt. Cook has marked the situation of the Marquesas J, fv i! ■I; I V- ■;■ f; 5i:l i' il 202 CAPTAIJM cook's with his usual correctness. He has also taken care to describe the particular cove in Resolution Bay in the island of St. Cliristina, which is most covenient for obtaining wood and water. It is remarkable, with respect to the inhabitants of the Marquesas Islands, tiiat, collectively taken, they are, without exception, the finest race of people in this sea. Perhaps they surpass all otiier nations in symmetry of form, and regularity of features. It is plain, however, from the affinity of their language to that of Otaheite and the Society Isles, that they are of the same orifjjin. Of this affinity the English were fully sensible, though they could not converse with them ; but Oedidee was capable of doing it tolerably well. From the Marquesas Captain Cook steered for Otaheite with a view of falling in with some of the islands discovered by former navigators, and espe- cially by the Dutch, the situation of which had not been accurately determined. In the course of the voyage, he passed a number of low islets, connected together by reefs of coral rocks. One of the islands on which Lieutenant Cooper went ashore with two boats well armed, was called by the natives Tiookea. It had been discovered and visited by Capt. Byron. The inhabibitants of Tiookea are of a much darker colour than those of the higher island, and appeared to be more tierce in their dispositions. This may be owing to their manner of gaining their subsistence, which is chiefly from the sea, and to their being much exposed to the sun and the weather. Our voyagers observed that they were stout well-made men, and that they had marked on their bodies the figure of a fish, which was a good emblem of their profession. Besides passing by St, George's Islands, which had been so named by Capt. Byron, our commander made the discovery of four others. These he called Palliser's Isles, in honour of his particular friend Sir Hugh Palliser. The inhabitants seemed to be the SECOND VOYAGE. 203 same sort of people as those of Tiookea, and, like them, were armed with long pikes. Captain Cook could not determine, with any degree of certainty, whether the group of isles he had lately seen were, or were not, any of those that had been discovered by the Dutch navigators. This was owing to the neglect of recording, with sufficient accuracy, tiie situation of their discoveries. Our commander has, in general observed, with regard to this part of the ocean, that from the latitude of twenty down to four- teen or twelve, and from the meridian of an hundred and thirty-eight to an hundred and forty-eight or an hundred and fifty west, it is so strewed with low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much caution. On the 22d of April, Captain Cook reached the island of Otaheite, and anchored in Matavia Bay. As his chief reason for putting in at this place was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity of ascertaining the error of the watch by the known longitude, and to determine anew her rate of going, the first object was to land the instruments, and to erect tents for the reception of a guard, and such other people as was necessary to have on shore. Sick there were none ; for the refreshments which had been obtained at the Marquesas had removed every complaint of that kind. From the quantity of provisions which, contrary to expectation, our commander now found at Otaheite, he determined to make a longer stay in the island than he had at first intended. Accordingly he took measures for the repairs of the ship, which the high southern latitudes had rendered indispensably ne- cessary. During Captain Cook's stay at Otaheite, he main- tained a most friendly connexion with the inhabitants, and a continual interchange of visits was preserved between him and Otoo, Towha, and other chiefs of the country. His traffic with them was greatly k i\ in if t ;■ f ■ ■ i?'"'f-| Tii'ni i i'f' ii m m. S04 CAPTAIN cook's I i IHlIP facilitated by his having fortanately brought with him some red parrot feathers from the island of Am- sterdam. These were jewels of high value in the estimation of the Otaheitans. The captain's stock in trade was by this time greativ exhausted: so that if it had not been for the feathers, he would have found it difficult to have supplied the ship with the necessary refreshments. Among other entertainments which our com- mander and the rest of the English gentlemen met with at Otaheite, one was a grand naval review. The vessels of war consisted of an hundred and sixty large double canoes, well equipped, manned, and armed. They were decorated with flags and streamers ; and the chiefs, together with all those who were on the fighting stages, were dresi^ed in their war habits. Tlie whole neet made a noble appearance, such as our voyagers had never seen before in this sea, or could ever have expected. Besides the vessels of war, there were an hundred and seventy sail of smaller double canoes, which seemed to be designed for transports and victuallers. Upon each of them was a little house, and they were rigged with mast and sail, which was not the case with the war canoes. Captain Cook guessed that there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred and sixty ^ men in the whole fleet. He was not able to obtain full information concerning the design of this arma- ment. Notwithstanding the agreeable intercourse that was in general maintained between our commander and the people of Otaheite, circumstances occasionally happened which called for peculiar exertions of his Erudence and resolution. One of the natives, who ad attempted to steal a water-cask from the water- ing-place, was caught in the act, sent on board, and put in irons. In this situation he was seen by King Otoo and other chiefs. Captain Cook having made known to them the crime of their countryman, Otoo n SKCOlfO VOlrAOB. 20b .. entreated that he might be set at liberty. This the III captain however refused, alleging that since he pu« nished his own people when tliey committed the least offence against Otoo's, it was but just that this man siiould also be punished. As Captain Cook knew that Otoo would not punish him, he resolved to do it himself. Accordingly he directed the criminal to be carried on shore to the tents, and having himself fol- lowed with the chief and other Otahcitans, he ordered the guard out under arms, and commanded the man to be tied up to a post. Otoo again solicited the cul- prit's release, and in this he was seconded by his sister, but In vain. The captain expostulated with him on the conduct of the man, and of the Indiana in general, telling him that neither he, nor any of the ship's company, took the smallest matter of property from them without first paying for it ; enumerating the articles which the English had given in exchange for such and such things, and urging that it was wrong in them to steal from those who were their friends. He added, that the punishing of the guilty person would be the means of saving the lives of several of Otoo's people, by deterring them from committing crimes of the like nature, and thus pre- venting them from the danger of being shot to death^ which would certainly happen at one time or other, if they persisted in their robberies. With these argu- ments the king appeared to be satisfied, and only desired that the man might not be killed. Captain Cook then directed that the crowd, which was very great, should be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of them all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lashes, with the cat-o'nine-tails. This punishment the man sustained with great firmness ; after which he was set at liberty. When the natives were going away, Towha called them back, and with much gracefulness of action, addressed tliem in a speech of nearly half an hour in length, the design of which was to condemn their present conduct, and m 1 'Mti If iiril 206 CAPTAIN COOK'S to recommond a diif'erent one for the future. To make a further impression upon the minds of the inhabitants, our commander ordered his marines to go througli tlieir exercises, and to load and iire in volleys with ball. As tliey were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is more easy to conceive than to describe tlie amazement which possessed the Indians during the whole time, und especially those of them who had not seen any thin^ of the kind before. The judicious will discern, with regard to this nar- rative, that it throws peculiar light on Capt. Cook's cliaracter. Nor is it an incurious circumstance^ in the history of human society, that a stranger should thus exercise jurisdiction over the natives of a coun- try, in the presence of the prince of that country, without his authority, and even contrary to his soli- citations. Another disagreeable altercation with the inhabi- tants of Otaheite arose from the negligence of one of the English sentinels on shore. Having slept on or quitted his post, an Indian seized the opportunity of carrying off his musket. When an extraordinary theft was committed, it immediately excited such an alarm among the natives in general, from their fear of Capt. Cook's resentment, that tliey fled from their habita- tions, and a stop was put to the traffic for provisions. On the present occasion, the captain had no small degree of trouble ; but, by his prudent conduct, the musket was recovered, peace restored, and commerce again opened. In the differences which happened with the several people he met with in his voyages it was a rule with h'un never to touch the least article of their property, any further than to detain their canoes awhile when it became absolutely necessary. He always chose the most mild and equitable methods of bringing them to reason ; and in this he not only succeeded, b/ut frequently put things upon a better footing than if no contention had taken place. During this visit to Otaheite, fruit and other re- 8BC0ND YOYAQB. 207 fresliraents were obtained in great plenty. The relief arising from tliem was the more agreeable and salu- tary, as the bread of the ship was in a bad condition. Tiiough the biscuit had been aired and picked at New Zealand, it was now in such a state of decay, t)iut it was necessary for it to undergo another airing and cleaning, in which much of it was found wholly rotten, and unfit to be eaten. This decay was judged to be owing to the ice our navigators had frequently tak -^ in when to the soutliward, which made the hold of the vessel cold and damp, and to the great heat that succeeded when they came to the north. Whatever was the cause, the loss was so considerable, that the men were put on scanty allowance of this article, with the additional mortification of the bread being bad that could be used. Two goats that had been given by Capt. Furneaux to Otoo in the former part of the voyage, seemed to promise fair for answering the purpose for which they were left upon the island. The ewe soon after had two female kids, which were now so far grown as to be almost ready to propagate. At the same time the old ewe was again with kid. The people were very fond of them, and they were in excellent condition. From these cif<^umstances, Capt. Cook entertained a hope that ni a course of years they would multiply so much, as to be extended over all the isles of the Southern Ocean. The like success did not attend the sheep which had been left in the country. These speedily died, one excepted. Our navigators also furnished the natives with cats, hav- ing given away no less than twenty at Otaheite, besides some which had been made presents of at Ulietea and Huaheine. With regard to tlie number of the inhabitants of Otaheite, our commander collected, from comparing several facts together, that, including women and children, there could not be less in the whole island than two hundred) and four thout>and. This number, yi'^ H ;i ii 208 CAPTAIN cook's !!|| at first sight, exceeded his belief; but wtien he came to reflect on the vast swarms of people tliat appeared wherever he went, he was convinced that the estimate was a^eeable to truth. Such was the friendly treatment which our vo}^- agers met with at Otaheite, that one of the gunner's mates was induced to form a plan for remaining in the country. As he Icnew that he could not execute his scheme with success while the Resolution con- tinued in Matavia Bay, he took the opportunity, when she was ready to quit it, and the sails were set for that purpose, to slip overboard. Being a good swimmer, he had no doubt of getting safe to a canoe which was at some distance ready to receive him: for his design was concerted with the natives, and had even been encouraged by Otoo. However,, he was discovered before he had got clear of the ship ; and a boat being presently hoisted out, he was taken up and brought back to ':he vessel. When our com- mander reflected en this man's situation, he did not think him very culpable, or his desire of staying on the island so extraordinary as might at first view be imagined. He was a native of Ireland, and had sailed in the Dutch service. Captain Cook, on hia return from his former voyage, had picked him up at Batavia, and had kept him in his employment ever since. It did not appear that he had either friends or connexions who could bind him to any particular part of the world. All nations being alike to him, where could he be more happy than at Otaheite? Here, in one of the finest climates of the globe, he could )iot only enjoy the necessaries, but the luxuries oi lifd, witli ease and plenty. The captain seems to think, that if the man had applied to him in time, he migtit have given his consent to his remaining in th5s country. On the 15th of May, Captain Cook anchored in O' Wharree Harbour, in the island of Huaheine. He was immediately visited by his friend Oree, and the SECOND VOYAGE. - 209 same agreeable intercourse subsisted between the captain and this (rood old chief which had formerlv taken place. Hed feathers were not here in such our vov- S e»timatiun as they liad been at Otaheite, the natives of Huaheine having the good sense to give a prefer- ence to the more useful articles of nails and axes. During tlie stay of our voyagers in this island, some alarms were occasioned by the thievish disposition of several of the inhabitants ; but matters subsided v( ithout any iXiaterial consequences. A solemn march which our commander made through part of the country y at the head of forty-eight men, tended to impress the Indians with a sense of his power and authority. In fact, their attempts at stealing had b( en too much invited by the indiscretion of some ot the English, who unguardedly separated themselves in the woods for the purpose of killing birds, and who managed their muskets so unskilfully, as to render them less formidable in the eyes of the natives. I cannot persuade myself to omit a dramatic enter- tainment at whif^h several of the gentlemen belonging to the Resolution attended one evening. The piece represented a girl as running away with our naviga- tors from Otaheite ; and the story was partly founded in truth ; for a young woman had taken a passage in the ship down to Ulietea. She happened to be present at the representation of her own adventures, which had such an effect upon her, ;hat it was with great difficulty she could be prevailed upon by the English gentlemen to see the play out, or to re- frain from tears while it was acting. The piece con- cluded with the reception which she was supposed to meet with from her friends at her return, and it was a reception that was by no means favourable. As these people, when they see occasion, can add little extempore pieces to their entertainments, it itf reasonable to imagine that the representation now described was intended as a satire against the girl, and to discourage others from followint; her steps. 20 !• I fV' I Hi j) I m ■/' III :!i 210 CAPTAIN cook's Buch is the sense which they entertain ot the pro- priety of female decorum. Daring Captain Cooli's stay at Huaheine, bread- fruity cocoa-nuts, and other vegetable productions. were procured in abundance, but not a sufficiency of hogs to supply the daily expense of the ship. This was partly owing to a want of proper articles for traf- fic. The captain was obliged, tlierefore, to set the smiths at work, to make different sorts of nails, iron tools, and instruments, in order to enable him to ob- tain refreshments at the islands he was yet to visit, and to support his credit and influence among the natives. When our commander was ready to sail from Huaheine, Oree was the last man that went out of the vessel. At parting. Captain Cook toM hf * th»t they should meet each other no more ; a^^ he wept, and said, ** Let your sons come ; we will treat them well." At Ulietea, to which the captain next directed his course, the events that occurred were nearly similar ^o those which have aVeady been related. He had always been received by the peonle of this island in the most hospitable manner, and they were justly entitled to every thing which it was in his power to grant. They expressed the deepest concern at his departure, and were continually importuning him to return. Oreo, the chief, and his wife and daughter, but especially the two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. Their grief was so excessive, that it migh periiaps be doubted whether it was entirely sincen and unaffected ; but our commander was of opinion that it was renL At length, when he was ready to sail, they took a most affectionate leave. Oreo's last request to Captain Cook was that he would re- turn ; and when he could not obtain a promise to that effect, he asked the name of his burying-place. To this strange question the captain answered with- out hesitation, that it was Stepney, that bcuig ^he pi ■ ■1 .'I SKC07JD VOYAGE. 211 bread- iuctions. iency oi p. This for traf- set the lils, iron m to ob- to visit, !iong the ail from \t out of hf * that ' he ifviil treat rected his ly similar He had island in 2re justly power to rn at his ig him to laughter, Br ceased : it migh y sincen >f opinion ready to Oreo's ¥Ould re- 'oniise to ng-place. red with- ixiing the j^rish in which he lived when in London. Mr. Forster, to whom the same question was proposed, replied, with greater wisdom and recollection, that no man who used the sea could say where he should be buried. As our commander could not promise, or even then suppose, that more English ships would be sent to the Southern Isles, Oedidee, who for so many months had been the faithful companion of our navi- gators, chose to remain in his native country ; but he left them with a regret fully demonstrative of his esteem and affection, nor could any thing have torn him from them but the fear of never returning. When Oreo pressed so ardently Capt. Cook's return, tie sometimes gave such answers as left room for hope. At these answers Oedidee would eagerly catch, take him on one side, and ask him over again. The captain declares that he had not words to describe the anguish which appeared in this young man's breast, when he went away. He looked up at tlie ship, burst into tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. Oedidee was a youth of good parts, and of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition ; but as he was alii?09t wholly ignorant of the religion, govern- ment, manners, customs, and trnditions of liis coun- trymen, and the neighbouring islands, no material knowledge could have been collected from him, had our commander brought him awuy. He would, how- ever, in every respect, have been a better specimen of the nation than Omai. When Captain Cook first came to these islands, he had some thoughts of visiting Tupia's famous Bolabola; but having obtained a plentiful supply of refreshments, and the route he had in view allowing him no time to spare, he laid this design aside, and directed his course to the west. Thus did he take bis leave, as he then thought, for ever, of these happy isles, on which Nature has spread her luxuriant sweets with a lavish liuud, and m wiuch the natives, copying m II;; i Si .'1 .■••1 I. * l,:t : '■■! [A' i. \:l i i 212 CAPTAIN COOK'S u; tbe bounty of Providence, are equally liberal, being ready to contribute plentifully and cheerfully to the \v'ant8 of the navigators. On the 6th of June, the day after our voyagers left Ulietea, they saw land, which they found to be a low reef island, about four leagues in compass, and of a circular form. This was Howe Island, which had been discovered by Captain Wallis. Nothing re- markable occurred from this day to the 16th, when land was again seen. It was another reef island ; and being a new discovery. Captain Cook gave it the name of Palmerston Island, in honour of Lord Pal- merston. On the 20th, fresh land appeared, which WLv *^^rceived to be inhabited. This induced our comi \er to go on shore with a party of gentle- men; b.t the natives were found to be fierce and un- tractable. All endeavours to bring them to a parley were to no pupose ; for they came on with the fero- city of wild boars, and instantly threw their darts. Two or three muskets, discharged in the air, did not prevent one of them from advancing still further and throwing another dart, or rather a spear, which passed close over Capt. Cook's shoulder. The courage ot this man had nearly cost him his life. When he threw his spear, he was not five puces from the cap- tain, who had resolved to shoot him for his own pre- servation. It happened, however, that his musket missed fire — a circumstance on which he afterwards reflected with pleasure. When he joined his party, and tried his musket in the air, it went oif perfectly well. This island, from the disposition and behaviour of the natives, with whom no intercourse could be established, and from whom no benefit could be re- ceived, was called by our commander Savage Island. It is about eleven leagues in circuit, is ot a round form and good height, and has deep water close to its shores. Among its other disadvantages, it is not furnished with a harbour. In pursuing his course to the west-south-west, SECOND VOYAGE. 213 Uupt. Cook passed by a number of small islands, and, on the 26th. anchored on the north sideof Anamocka, or Rotterdam. A traffic immediately commenced with the natives, who brought what provisions they had, being chiefly yams and shaddocks, which they exchanged for nails, beads, and other small articles. Here, as in many former cases, the captain was put to some trouble on account of the thievish disposition of the inhabitants. As they had got possession of an adze and two muskets, he found it necessary to exert himself with peculiar vigour in order to oblige them to make restitution. For this purpose, he commanded all the marines to be armed and sent on shore ; and the result of this measure was, that the things which had been stolen were restored. In the contest. Captain Cook was under the necessity of firing some small shot at a native who had distinguished himself by his resistance. His countrymen afterwards re- ported that he was dead ; but he was only wounded, and that not in a dangerous manner. Though his sufferings were the effects of his own misbehaviour, the captain endeavoured to soften them by making him a present, and directing his wounds to be dressed by a surgeon of the ship. The first time that our commander landed at Ana- mocka, an old lady presented him with a girl, and gave him to understand that she was at his service. Miss, who had previously been instructed, wanted a spike-nail, or a shirt, neither of which he had to give her ; and he flattered himself that, by making the two women sensible of liia poverty, he should easily get clear of their importunities. In this, however, he was mistaken. The favours of the young lady were offered upon credit; and on his declining the proposal, the old woman began to argue with him, and then to abuse him. As far as he could collect from her countenance and her actions, the design of her speech was both to ridicule and reproach him for refusing to entertain so fine a young lady. Indeed, (If iiii • 'I V I I r.'Nl I i hi M I , '1 Ssl4 CAPTAIN COOKd the girl was by no means destitute of beauty ; but Cliptain Cook found it more easy to withstand tier allurements than the abuse of the ancient matron, and therefore hastened into the boat. While the captain was on shore at Anamocka, he got the liames of twenty islands which lie between the north-west and north-east. Some of them were in sight; and two of them, which are most to the west, are remarkable on account of their great height. Tiiese are Amattafoa and Oghao. From a continual column of smoke which was seen daily^ ascending from the middle of Amattafoa, it was judged that there was a volcano in that island. Anamocka was first discovered by Tasman, and by him was named Rotterdam. It is of a triangula form, and each side extends about three and a hal. or four miles. From the north-west to the south Oi the island, round by the east and north, it is encom- passed by a number of small isles, sand-banks, and breakers. An end could not be seen to their extent tc the north, and they may possibly reach so far to tlie south us Amsterdam, or Tongataboo. Together v.'ith Middleburg, or Eaoowe, and Pilstart, these form a group, containing about three degrees of lati- tude, and two of longitude. To this group Captain Cook had given the name of the Friendly Isles, or Archipelago, from the firm alliance and tvicndship which seemed to subsist among their inhabitants, and from their courteous behaviour to strangers. The same group may perhaps be extended much further, even down to Boscaw^in and Kf'ppePs Isles, which were discovered by Captain Wallis, and li> nearly in the same meridian. Whilst our commander was at Anamocka, he wa^ particularly assiduous to prevent the introduction oi a certain disorder. As some of his people brought with them the remains of this disease from the Society Isles, he prohibited them from having any female intercourse. SECOND VOYAGE. 215 The productions of Rotterdam, and the persons, manners, and customs of its inhabitants, are similar to those of Amsterdam. It is not, however, equally {dentiful in its fruits, nor is every part of It in so ligh a state of cultivation. Neither has it risen to the same degree of wealth with regard to cloth, mat- ting, ornaments, and other articles, which constitute the chief riches of the islanders of the Southern Ocean. Pursuing their course to the west, our navigators discovered land on the Ist of July; and, upon a nearer approach, found it to be a small island, to which, on account of the number of turtles that were seen upon the coast. Captain Cook gave the name of Turtle Isle. On the 16th, hi^h land was seen bearing south-west, which no one doubted to be the Australiii del Espirito Santo of Quiros, and which is called by M. de Bougainville the Great Cyclades. After ex- ploring the coast for some days, the captain came to an anchor in a harbour in the island of Mallicollo. One of his first objects was to commence a friendly intercourse with the natives ; but while he was thus employed, an accident occurred which threw all into confusion, though in the end it was rather advan- tageous than hurtful to the English. A fello.w in a canoe, having been refused admittance into one of our boats, bent his bow to shoot a poisoned arrow at the boat-keeper. Some of his countrymen having prevented his doing it that instant, time was given to acquaint our commander with the transaction, who ran immediately upon deck. At this minute the Indian had directed his bow to the boat-keeper ; but upon being called to by Captain Cook, he pointed it at him. Happily the captain had a musket in his band loaded with small shot, and gave him the con- tents. By this, however, he was only staggered for a moment, for he still held his bow in the attitude of shooting. A second discharge of the same nature made him drop it, and obliged him, together with the other natives, who were in the canoe, to paddle :« ';i,i 'i 'tSf'^i M I . 1 »16 CAPTAIN COOK'S I off with all posHible celerity. At this time, some of the inhabitants began to shoot arrows from another quarter. A inuslcet dischar^'cd in tlie uir hud no ettect upon tliern ; but no sooner was a four-pound bull shot over their heads, than they fled in tlie ut- most confusion. A few hours after these transactions, the English put olf in two boats, and landed in the face of four or five hundred people, who were assembled on tlie shore, and who, though they were all armed with bows and arrows, clubs and spears, made not the least opposition. On the contrary, when they saw Capt. Cook advance with nothing but a green branch in his hand, one of them, who appeared to be a chief^ giving his bow and arrows to another, met the cap- tain in the water bearing also a green branch. These bein^ mutually exchanged in token of friendship, the cliiet led our commander to the crowd, to whom he immediately distributed presents. The marines in the meantime, were drawn upon the beach. Capt. Cook then acquainted the Indians, by signs, that he wanted wood; and in the same manner permission was granted him to cut down trees. Much trafHc could not be carried on with these people because they set no value on nails or iron tools, or indeed on any articles which our navigators could furnish. In such exchanges as they did make, and which were principally of arrows for pieces of cloth, they distinguished themselves by their honesty. When the ship had begun to sail from the island, and they might easily in consequence of their canoes dropping astern, have avoided delivering the things tlie V had been paid for, they used their utmost efibrts to get up with her, that they might discharge their obligations. One man, in particular, followed the Resolution a considerable time, and did not reach her till the object which brought him was forgotten. As soon as he came alongside the vessel, he held up the thing which had been purchased *. and though SECOND VOYAGE. ieverjil of tlie crew offered to buy it, he indisted upon delivering it to the person to wliorn it liud been sold. That person, not knowing him a|^ain, would have given something in return ; but this he refused, and showed him vhat he had before received. There was only a s'.igle instance in which the natives took, or even attempted to take, any thing from our voy- agers by any means whatever; and in that case restitution was immediately made without trouble, and without altercation. The inhabitants of MallicoIIo, in general, are the most ugly and ill' proportioned people that Captain Cook had ever seen, and are in every respect differ- ent from all the nations which had been met with in the Southern Ocean. They are a very dark coloured, and rather a diminutive race, with long heads, flat faces, and countenances which have some resemblance to that of a monkey. Their hair, which is mostly black or brown, is short and curly, but not altogether 80 soft and woolly as that of a negro. The difference of this people from any whom our commander had yet visfted, appeared not only in their persons, but in their language. Of about eighty words which were collected by Mr. Forster, scarcely one was found to bear any afiinity to the language spoken in any country or island hitherto described. It was observed by Captain Cook that the natives could pronounce most of the English words with great ease. They had not so much as a name for a dog, and knew nothing of that animal ; for which reason the captain left them a dog and bitch ; and as they were very fond of them, it was highly probable that the breed would be fostered and increased. To the harbour in which our commander anchored while he lay at Mallicollo, he gave the name of Port Sandwich. It has many advantages with regard to depth of water, shelter from win is, and lying so near the shore as to be a cover to those of a ship's company who may be carxving on any operations by land. h.i Hi 818 CAPTAIN cook's Soon after our navigators had got to sea, which was on the 23d of July, they discovered three or four small islands which before had appeared to be con- nected. At this time the Resolution was not far from the Isle of Ambryn, the island of Paoom, and the Isle of Apce. On the next morning several more islands were discovered, lying off the south-east point of Apee, and constituting a group, which Capt. Cook called Shepherd's isles, in honour of his leanied and valuable friend Dr. Siiepherd, Plumian Professor of Astronomy at Cambridge. The ship was this day in some danger. It suddenly fell calm, and our voy- agers were left to the mercy of the current, close by the isles, where no sounding could be ■. >uiid with a line of an hundred and eigiity fathoms. The lands or islands, which lay around the vessel in every di- rection, were so numerous that they could not be counted. At this crisis a breeze sprung up. which happily relieved the captain and his company from the anxiety the calm had occasioned. Amidst the number of islands that were continually seen by our navigators, there was only one on which no inhabitants were discerned. This consisted chiefly of a remarkable peaked rock, which was only acces- sible to birds, and which obtained the name of the Monument. In the further course of the ship to the southward, our navigators drew near to certain lands, which they found to consist of one large island, the south- em and western extremities of which e:^tended beyonc their sight. Three or four smaller ones lay off its north side. To the two principal of these Capiain Cook gave the name of Montagu and Hinchinbrook, and the large island he named Sandwich, in honour of his noble patron the Earl of Sandwich. This island, which was spotted with woods and lawns, agreeeably diversified over the whole surface, and i^bich had a gentle slope from the hills down to the sea-coast, exhibited a most beautiful and deliuhtfni SECOND VCYAOB. 219 prospect. The examination of it was not, however, so much an object with our commander, as to pro- ceed to the south, in order to find the southern ex- tremity of the Arcliipelago. Pursuing his discoveries, Captain Cook came in si{(ht of an island, which was afterwards known to be called by the natives Erromango. After coasting it for three days, he brought his vessel to an anchor in a bay there on the 3rd of August. Tlie next day he went with two boat? to examine the coast, and look for a proper landing-place, that he might obtain a supply of wood and water. At this time the inha- bitants began to assemble on the shore, and by signs to invite our people to land. Their behaviour was apparently so friendly, that the captain was charmed with it ; and the only thing which could give him suspicion was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, and bows and arrows. He did not, therefore, remit his vigilance, but kept his eye continually upon the chief, watching his looks as well as his actions. It soon was e^'ident that the intentions of the Indians were totally hostile. They made a violent attempt to seize up'^'i one of the boats; and though, on our comman(ier's pointing a musket at them, they in some measure desisted, yet they returned in an instant, seemingly determined to carry their design into execution. At the head of the party was the chief; while others, who could not come to the boat stood behind with darts, stones, and bows and arrows in liand, ready to support their countrymen. As signs and threats had no effect, the safety of Capt. Cook and his people became the only object of consideration, and yet he was unwilling to fire on the multitude. He resolved, therefore, to make the chief alone the victim of his own treachery, and accordingly aimed his musket at him ; but at this critical moment it missed fire. Tills circumstance encouraged the natives to despise our weapons, and to show the superiority of their *:i^ i\ 1 1 1 ,' Pi I' u i, ft 'II m\ 220 CAPTAIN cook's own, by throwing stones and darts, and by shooting arrows. Hence it became absolutely necessary tor the captain to give orders to his men to tire upon the assailants. The first discharge threw them into con> fusion ; but a second was scarcely sufficient to drive them off the beach. In consequence of this skirmish four of the Indians lay, to all appearance, dead on the shore. Two of theiu, however, were afterwards perceived to crawl into the bushes ; and it was happy for these people that not half the muskets of the English would go off, since otherwise many more must have fallen. The inhabitants were at length so terrified as to make no further appearance ; and two oars which had been lost in the conflict, were left standing np against the bushes. It was observed of these islanders that they seemed of a different race from those of Mallicollo, and that they spoke a different language. Tliey are of a mid- dle size, with a good shape and tolerable features. Their colour is very dark ; and their asp' t is not mended by a custom they have of paii '' their faces, some with a black, and others with «• ^cd pig- ment. As to their hair, it is curly and crisp, and somewhat woolly. The few women who were seen, and who appeared to be ugly, wore a kind of petti- coat, made either of palm- leaves, or of a plant similar in its nature ; but the men, like those of Mallicollo, were almost entirely naked. On account of the treacherous behaviour of the inhabitants of £rro- roango. Captain Cook called a promontory or penin- sula, near to which the skirmish happened, Traitor's Head. From this place the captain sailed for an island which had been discovered before at a distance, and at which, on account of his wanting a large ouantity of wood and water, he was resolved to make some stay. At first the natives were disposed to be very hostile ; but our commander, with equal wisdom and humanity, contrived to terrify them, without danger SBtOMD VOYAOB. 2*2' shooting siiry for ipon the nto con- to drive ikinnish dead on terwards Eis hapuy of the ly more ength 80 and two vere left ^ seemed and that >f a mid- features. t is not * their *tfd pip- risp, and ere seen, of petti- it similar allicollo, t of the Df Erro- ar penin- Traitor's to their lives. This was principally effected by firing a few great ^uns, at which they were so much alarmed, as afterwards to be brou<,^ht to tolerable order. Among these islanders, niatiy were inclined to be on friendly terms with our navigators, and especially the old people ; whilst most of the younger were daring and insolent, and obli^^ed the English to keep to their arms. It was natural enough that age should be prudent and cautious, and youth bold and impetuous ; and yet this distinction, with regard to the behaviour of the various nations which had been visited by Captain Cook, had not occurred before. The island where the captain now stayed was found, upon inquiry, to l)e called by the inhabitants Tanna; and three others in its neighbourhood, and which could be seen from it, were distinguished by the names of Inmer, Erronan, or Footoona, and Annatom. From such information of the ^latives as our com- mander could see no reason to doubt, it appeared that circumcision was practised among them, and that they were eaters of human flesh. Concerning the latter subject, he should never have thought of asking them a single question, if they had not intro- duced it themselves, by inquiring whether the Englisk had the same custom. It has been argued that ne- cessity alone could be the origin of this horrid prac- tice. But as the people of Tanna are possessed of tine pork and fowls, together with an abundance of roots and fruits, the plea of necessity cannot be urged in their behalf. In fact, no instance was seen of their eating human flesh, and therefore there might perhaps be some reason to hesitate in pro- nouncing them to be cannibals. In the island of Tanna was a volcano which some* times made a dreadful noise, and at each explosion, which happened every three or four minutes, threw up fire and smoke in prodigious columns. At one time great stones were seen high in the air. At the foot ' i ' : < 'ri M i ml it'-i 1 ^ \ < ! ill ' ' 1 ^ !' & 222 CAPTAIN COOK A ol the hill were several hot springs ; and on tlie side of it Mr. Forster found some places whence smoke of a sulphurous smell issued through cracks or fis- sures of the earth. A thermometer that was placed in a little hole made in one of them, and which in the open air stood only at eighty, rose to a hundred and seventy. In another instance, the mercury rose to a hundred and ninety-one. It is observable with respect to the volcano of Tanna, that it is not on the ridge of the hill to which it belongs, but on its side; nor is that hill the highest in the country, for there are others near it of more than double its height. In was in moist and wet weather that the volcano was most violent. When our commander was ready to sail from Tanna, an event happened which gave much concern. Just AS our yeorle were getting bome logs into the boat, four or fivo of the natives stepped forward to see what they were doing. In consequence of the Indians not being*^ allowed to come within certain limits, the sentinel ordered them back, upon which they readily complied. At this time, Capt. Cook, who had his eyes fixed upon them, observed the sentry present his piece to the men. The captain was going to re- prove him for this action, when to his inexpressible astonishment the sentry fired. An attack so cause- less and extraordinary naturally threw the natives into great confusion. Most of them fled, and it was with difficulty that our commander could prevail upon a few ot them to remain. As they ran off, he perceived one of them to fall, who was immediately lifted un by two others, who took him into the water, washed his wound, and then led him off. The wounded person not being carried far. Captain Cook sent for the surgeon of the ship, and accompanied him to the man, whom they found expiring. The rascal that had fired, pretended that an Indian had laid an arrow across his bow, and was going to shoot at him, so ttiat he apprehended himself to be io i I SECOND YOYAOB. 223 danger. This, however, was no more than what the islanders had alvrays done, to show that they were aimed as well as our Yoyagers. Wiiat rendered the present incident the more unfortunate was, that it was not the man who hent the bow, but one who stood near him, that was shot by the sentry. The harbour where the captain anchored during his stay at Tanna was called by him PoctJSfiflftlution, after the name of the ship, she being the first vessel by whicli it was ever entered. It is no more than a little creek, three quarters of a mile in length. No place can exceed it in its convenience for taking in wood and water, which are both close to the shore. The inhabitants of the island, with whom our com- mander har^ the most frequent and friendly con- nr>xions, were named Paowang. Very little trade could be carried on with the peo- ple of Tanna. They had not the least knowledge ot iron, and consequently nails, tools, and other arr'clcs made of that metal, and which are so greedily sou^at for in the more eastern isles, were here of no consi^ deration. Cloth could be of no service to pertions who go naked. Among the productions of the island, there is reason to believe that the nutmeg-tree might be men- tioned. This is collected from the circumstance oi Mr. Forster's having shot a pigeon, in the craw of which a wild nutmeg was discovered. However, though he took dome pains to find the tree, his endea- vours were not nttended with success. it was at first thought by our navigators that the Inhabitants of Tanna were a race between the natives of the Frifiu^ Islands and those of M alUcg Uo ; but, by a short acquaintance with them, they were con* vinsed that thej had little or .10 affinity to either, excepting in theirlhair. Some few men, women, and children were seen, whose hair resembl^ that of the English. With- regard, however, to these persons, it was obvious that they were ol another nation : !HP 'I -It ~»'l 224 CAPTAIN cook's and it was understood that they came from Erroraan. Two languages were found to be spoken in Tanna ; one of them, which appeared to have been introduced from Erroman, is nearly, if not exactly the same with that of tlie Friendly Islands ; the other, which is the proper language of the country, and which is judged to be peculiar to Tanna, Erromango, and An- natom, is different from any that had hitherto been met with by our voyagers. The people of Tanna are of the middle size, and for the most part slender. There are few tall or stout men among them. In general, they have good fea- tures and agreeable countenances. Like all the tro- oical race, they are active and nimble ; and seem to excel in the use of arms, but not to be fond of /abour. On the 20th of August, Captain Cook sailed from Tanna, and employed the remainder of the month in a further examination of the islands round him. He had now finished his survey of the whole Archi- pelago, and had gained a knowledge of it infinitely superior to what had ever been attained before. The southern islands of this Archipelago were first dis- covered, in 1606, by that eminent navigator Quiros, who considered them as part of the southern con- tinent, which at that time, and till very lately, was supposed to exist. M. de Bougainville was the next person by whom they were visited in 1768. This gentleman, however, besides landing in the isle of Lepers, only made the discovery that the country was not connected, but composed of islands, which he called the Great Cyclades. Capt. Cook, besides ascertaining the situation and extent of these islands, added to them several new ones, which had hitherto been unknown, and explored the whole. He thought therefore, that he had obtained a right to name them, and he accordingly bc?towed upon them the o npel- lation of the New Hebrides. His title to this honour will not be disputed in any part of Europe, and cer- II ; SECOND VOYAGE. 2*25 rronian. Tanna : troducea he same , which which 18 and An- iTto been , and for 5r stout Dod fea- the tro- nd seem fond of ed from lonth In id him. i Archi- n finitely •e. The irst dis- Quiros, Tn con- Jly, was he next This isle of jountry which besides islands, litherto bought sthem, ipel- honour nd cer- tainly not by so enlightened and liberal a people as the French nation. The season of the year now rendered it necessary for our commander to return to the Houth, while he had yet some time to explore any lana he might meet with between the New Hebrides and New Zealand, at which last place he intended to touch, that he might refresh his people, and renew his stock of wood and water, for another southern course. With this view, he sailed on the 1st of September, and, on the 4tli, land was discovered ; in a harbour belonging to which, the Resolution cpme to an anchor the next day. The design of Captain Cook was not only to visit the country, but to have an opportunity of observing an eclipse of the sun which was soon to happen. An intercourse immediately commenced with the inha- bitants, who, during the whole of the captain's stay, behaved in a very civil and friendly manner. In return, he was solicitous to render them every ser- vice in his power. To Teabooma, the chief, he sent among other articles, a dog and bitch, both young, but nearly full grown. It was some time before Tea- booma could believe that the two animals were intended for him ; but when he was convinced of it, he was lost in excess of joy. Another, and still more valuable present was that of a young boar and sow, which, on account of the ab ice of the chief when they were brought to land, wci , received with great hesitation and ceremony. The last time that our commander went on shore at this place, he ordered an inscription to be cut o u large tree, setting forth the name of tlie sliip, the date of the year, and other circumstances, whicli testified that the English were the first discoverers oH the country. This he had before done, wherever such a ceremony seemed necessary. How the island was called by the natives, our voyagers could nev' "* learn ; and therefore Captain Cook gave it the ' ne of New Caledonia. The inhabitanta are strong. 20 ^"^'- Q ' ' • m. iii ;M $i m w f'-i'' f i it ! '! 1 Vj/i CAPTAIN COOKS robust, activC) and well made. With regard to the origin of the nation, the captain judged them to be a race between the peoplQ of Tanna and the Friendly Isles ; or between those of Tanna and the New Zear landers ; or all three. Their language is in some respects a mixture of them all. In their disposition they are courteous and obliging ; and they are not in the least addicted to pilfering/ which is more than .^an be asserted concerning any other nation in this sea. The women of New Caledonia, and those likewise of Tanna, were found to be much chaster than the females of the more eastern islands. Our comman- der never heard that the least favour was obtained from them by anv of his company. Sometimes, indeed, the women would exercise a little coquetry, but they went no further. The botanists of the ship did not here complain for want of employment. They were diligent in their researches, and their labours were amply rewarded. Every day brought some new acquisition to botanical knowledge, or that of other branches of natural iiistory. Every thing being ready to put to sea, Capt. Cook weighed anchor on the 13th of September, with the purpose of examining the coast of New Caledonia. In pursuing this object, by which he was enabled to add greatly to nautical and geographical knowledge, the Resolution was more than once in danger of being lost, and particularly in the night of the 2dth of the month, she had a narrow escape. Our navigators, on this occasion, were much alarmed, and day- light showed that their fears had not been ill founded. Indeed breakers had been continually under their lee, iiid at a small distance from them, bo that they were hi the most imminent danger. ''We owed our safety," says the captain, <' to the interposition of Trovidencej a good look-out, and the very brisk oiuuner in which the ship was managed.'' Wltil'J. 9^11* SECOND YOYAGB. 227 Our commander now began to be tired of a coast which he could no longer explore but at the risk of losing the vessel, and ruining the whole voyage. He determined, however, not to leave it till he knew of what kind some groves of trees were, which, by their uncommon appearance, had occasioned mucii specu- lation, and had been mistaken by several of the gen- tlemen for basaltes. Captain Cook was the more solicitous to ascertain the point, as these trees ap- peared to be a sort which might be useful to ship- ping, and had not been seen any where but in the southern parts of New Caledonia. They proved to be a species of spruce pine, very proper for spars, which were then wanted. The discovery was valu- able, as, excepting New Zealand, there was not an island known in the southern Pacific Ocean where the ship could supply herself with mast or yard, to whatever distress she might be reduced. Captain Cook now took into serious consideration what was further to be done. He had prbtiy well determined the extent of the south-west coast of New Caledonia, and would jp[ladly have proceeded to a more accurate survey of the whole, had he not been deterred, not only by the dangers he must encounter, but by the time required for the undertaking, and which he could not possibly spare. Indeed, when he considered the vast ocean he had to explore to the south, the state and condition oH the ship, the near approach of summer, and that any material accident might detain him in this sea even for another year, he did not think it advisable to make New Caledonia any longer the object of his attention. But though he was thus obliged, by necessity, for the first time, to leave a coast which he had discovered before it was fuUv surveyed, he did not quit it till he had as- certained the extent of the country, and proved that, excepting New Zealand, it was perhaps the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean. As the Resolution pursued her course from Nevv ■| H i 1 1 m ii'; il m 228 CAPTAIN COOK'S i I 9 Caledonia, land was discovered, which, on a nearer approach, was found to be an island of good height, and five leagues in circuit. Captain Cook named it Norfolk Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It was uninhabited, and the first persons that ever Bet foot on it were unquestionably our English navi- gators. Various trees and plants were observed that are common at New Zealand. t. ■«..;_ From Norfolk Isle our commander steered for New Zealand, it being his iniantion to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, that he mi^ht refresh his crew, and put the ship in a condition to encounter the southern latitudes. On the 18th of October, he an- chored before Ship Cove in thai sound ; and the first thing he did after landing was to lool for the bottle he had left on shore, in which was t memorandum. It was taken away, and it soon appeared from in- dubitable circumstances that the Adventure had been in the cove after it was quitted by the Resolution. Upon visiting the gardens which had been formed at Motuara, they were found almost in ^ state of nature, having been wholly neglected by liie inha- bitants. Many, however, of the articles were in a flourishing condition, and showed how well they liked the soil In which they were planted. It was several days before any ol the natives made their appearance : but when they did so, and recognised Cfaptain Cook and his friends, joy succeeded to fear, They hurried in numbers out of the woods, and em- braced the English over and over again, leaping and skipping about like madmen. Amidst all this extra- vagance of joy, they were careiiil to preserve the honour of their females ; for they would not permit some women, who were seen at a distance, to come near our people. The captain's whole intercourse with the New Zealanders, during this his third visit to Queen Charlotte's Sound, was peaceable and friendly ; and one of them, a man apparently of con- sequence^ whose name was Pedro, preseuted him '. T SECOND YOVAOE. 229 nearer leiffht, ned it ward. ; ever .•ji'«t}.-»rt with a staff of honour, such as the chiefs generally carry. In return, our commander dressed Pedro, who had a fine person, and a good presence, ui a suit of old clothes, of which he was not a little proud. Captuin Cook still continued his solicitude to stock the islands with useful animals ; and accordingly, in addition to what he had formerly done, he ordered two pigs, a boar and a sow, to be put on shore. There was reason to believe that some of the cocks and hens which had formerly been left here still existed. None of them, indeed, were seen ; but a hen's egg was found, which had not long been laid. On the 10th of November, Captain Cook took his departure from New Zealand in further pursuit of bis great object, the determination of the question concerning the exii^tence of a southern continent. Having sailed til) the 27th, in different degrees of latitude, ex'^^ending from 43 deg. to 55 deg. 48 min, south, he gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this ocean. He came, therefore, to the resolution of steering directly for the west entrance of the Straits of Magellans, with a view of coasting the south side of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the Strait Le Maire. As the world had hitherto obtained but a very im« perfect knowledge of the shore, the captain thought that the full survey of it would be more advantage- ous, both to navigation and geography, than any thing he could expect to find in a higher latitude. In the prosecution of his voyage, our commander on the 17th cf December, reached the west coast of Terra del Fuego , and having continued to range it till the 20th, he came to an anchor in a place to which he afterwards gave the name of Christmas Sound. Through the whole course of his various navigations, he had never seen so desolate a coast. It seems to be entirely composed of rocky mouncains, without the least appearance of vegetation; these mountains terminat'' in horrible oreci pices, the craggy I ^ '4 ;|: Ml M 280 CAPTAIN cook's aafai summits of which spire up to a vast height. ek> that scarcely any thing in nature can appear with a more barren and savage aspect than the whole of the country. The run which Captain Cooli had made directly across the ocean in a high southern latitude, was believed by him to be the first of the kind that had ever been carried into execution. He was therefore somewhat particular in remarking every circum- stance which seemed to be in the least material. He could not, however, but observe that he had never made a passage any where of such length, or even of a much shorter extent, in which so ^w things oc- curred that were of an interesting nature. Excepting the variation of the compass, he knew nothing else that was worthy of notice. The captain had now done with the Southern Pacific Ocean, and he had explored it in such a manner that it would be impos- sible for any one to think that more could be obtained in a single voyage, towards attaining that end, than hud actually been accomplished. Barren and dreary as the laud is about Christmas Sound, it was not wholly destitute of some accom- modations, which could not fail of being agreeable to our navigators. Near everv harbour they found fresh water, and wood for fuel. The country abounds likewise with wild fowl, and particularly with geese, which afforded a refreshment to the whole crew. The hihabitants of Terra del Fuego, Captain Cooli found to be of the same nation that he had formerly seen in Success Bay, and the same whom M. de Bougainville has distinguished by the name of Pe- charas. They are a little, ugly, half-starved, beard- less race, and go almost naked. It is their own fault that they are not better clothed^ nature having fur- nished them, with ample materials for that purpose. By lining their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquatic birds, by making the cloaks them- Eeives larger, and by applying the same materials to SBCOND VOYAOR. 231 Iso that la more I of tije irectly at had reiore rcurn- 1. He never J veil of gs oc- epting ig else d now le had mpos- tajned I than istmafl ecoru- Me to found ounds Gfeese, r. Cook nerly [. iie rPe- sard- fault fur- pose, and lem- Isto different parts of clothing, they might render their dress much more warm and comfortable. But while they are doomed to exist in one of the most inhos- pitable climates in the globe, they have not sagacity enough to avail themselves of those means of adding to the conveniences of lite which Providence has put into their power. In short, the captain, after having been a witness to so many varieties cf the human race, has pronounced, tliat of all the nations he had seen, the Pecharas are the most wretcheu^ ' Notwithstanding the barrenness of the country, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, and gave sufficient employment to the botanists of the Reso- lution. " Almost every plant," says Mr. Forster, ^* which we gathered on the rocks was new to us, and some species were remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or for their smell." On tlie 28th of December, our commander sailed from Christmas Sound, and proceeded on his voyage round Cape Horn, through Strait Le Maire, to Staten Land. This famous cape was passed by him on the next day, when he entered the Soutnei Atlantic Ocean. In some charts. Cape Horn is lai down as belonging to a small island ; but this was neither confirmed, nor could it be contradicted, by our navi- gators ; for several breakers appeared on the coast, both to the east and west of it, and the hazy wea- ther rendered every object very indistinct. Though the summits of some of the hills were rocky, the sides and valleys seemed covered with a green turf, p»^ ooded in tufts. . ranging Staten Island, a good port was found, situated three leagues to the westward of St. John, and in a northern direction. Upon account of the day on which the discovery of tliis port was made (being the 1st of January,) Captain Cook save it the name of New Year's Harbour. The knowledge of it may be of service to future navigators. The extent of Terra del Fuego, and consequently '1'.;l II % Jl 11;' 1^)2 CAPTAIN COOK B that of the Straits of Magellans, our commander ascertained to be less tliun has been laid down by the generality of navigators. Nor was the coast, upon tlie whoie, found to be so dangerous as has often been represented. The weather at the same time was remarkably temperate. In one of the little isles near Staten Land, and which had been called by Captain Cook New Year's Isles, there was observed a harmony between the different animals of the place, which is too curious to be omitted. It seemed as if they had entered into a league not to disturb each other's tranquillity. The greater part of the sea-coast is occupied oy the sea-lions ; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isles; the shags are posted in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix their quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from the sea; and the rest of the birds choose more retired places. All these animals were occasionally seen to mix together like domestic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, with- out one attempting to molest the other.* Nay, the captain had otten observed the eagles and vultures sitting on the hills among the shags, while none of the latter, whether old or young, appeared to be in the least disturbed at their presence. It may be asked then, how do these birds of prey live? This question our commander has answered, by supposing that they feed on the carcases of seals and birds which die by various causes. It is probable, from the immense quantity of animals with which this isle abounds, that such carcases exist in great numbers. Capt. Cook sailed from Staten Island on the 4th of January, with a view, in the first place, of discovering that extensive coast, laid down by Mr. Dalr^mple in his chart, in which is the gulf ot St. Sebastian. In order to have all other parts before him, the captain ;' designed to make the western point of that gulf. As - be had some doubt of the existence of such a coast, ^ this appeared to him the best route for determining ^ SECOND VOYAOB. 333 .1 the matter, and for exploring the southern part of this ocean. When he came to the situations assigned to the different points of the Oulf of St. Sebastian, neither land, nor any unequivocal si^^ns of land, were discovered. On the contrary, it was evident that there could not be any extensive tract of country in the direction which had been supposed. Proceeding on his voyage, land was seen on the 14th, which was at first mistaken for an island of ice. It was in a manner wholly covered with snow. From the person by whom it was first discovered, it ob- tained the name of Wallis's Island. It is a high rock of no great extent, near to which are some rocky islets. Another island of a larger compass, on ac- count of the vast number of birds which were upon it, was called Bird Isle. A more extensive range of country had been seen for some time, which Captain Cook reached on the 17 th, and where he landed on tiie same day, in three difierent places. The head of the bay, in wiiich he came to shore, was terminated by particular ice-cliffs of considerable height. Pieces were continually breakmg off, and fioating out to sea, and while our navigators were in the bay, a great fall happened, which made a noise like a cannon. No less savage and horrible were the inner parts of the country. The wild rocks raised their summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. There was not a tree to be seen, or shrub to be found, that was even big enough to make a tooth-pick. The only vegetation that was met with, was a coarse, strong-bladed grass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, which sprang from the rocks. When our commander landed in the bay, he dis- played the English colours, and, under a discharge of small arms, took possession of the country in iiis Majesty's name. It was not, however, a discovery which was ever likely to be productive of any consi- derable benefit. ■ - ;H' I ri . 'A Hi 9S^ CAPTAIN COOKS t Upon coasting round the whole country, it was proved to demonstration that it was only an island of seventy leagues in circuit. In honour of his Majestv, Captain Coolc called it the Isle of Georgia. It could scarcely have been thought that an island of no greater extent than this, situated between the lati- tude of fifty-four and fifty 'five, should in a manner be wholly covered, many fathoms deep, with frozen snow, in the height of summer. The captain on the 25th of the month, steered from the Isle of Georgia, and, on the 27th, computed that he was in latitude sixty south. Further than this he did not intend to go, unless some certain signs of soon meeting with land should be discovered. There was now a long hollow swell from the west, which was a Btrons indication that no land was to be met with in that direction ; and hence arose an additional proof of what has already been remarked, that the exten- sive coast laid down in Mr. Dalrymple's chart, of the ocean between Africa and America, and the gulf of St. Sebastian, does not exist. Not to mention the various islands which were seen in the prosecution of the voyage, and the names that were given to them , I shall only advert to a few of the more material circumstances. On an elevated coast which ap- E eared in sight upon the Slst, our commander estowed the appellation of the Southern Thule. The reason of his giving it this name was, that it is the most southern land that had ever yet been dis- covered. It is every where covered with snow, and displays a surface of vast height. On this day our voyagers were in no small danger from a great wes- terly swell, which set right upon the shore, and threatened to carry them on the most horrible coast in the world. Happily the discovery of a point to the north, beyond which no land could be seen, relieved them from their apprehensions. To the more distinguished tracts of country which were dis- covered from the 31st of Jan. to the Gth of February, it was land of ajesty, t could of no e lati- nanner frozen d from id that this he )f soon re was was a vith in proof exten- of the julf of on the tlon of them , iterial )h ap- [lander Thule. t it is in dis- 7y and ly our i wes- f and coast lint to seen, 'o the 'edis* raary, SECOND VOYAOR. 235 Captain Cook gave the names of Cape Bristol, and Cape Montague, Sanders' Isle, Candlemas Isles, and Sandwich's Land. The last is either a group of islands, or else a point of the continent ; for that there is a tract of laril near the pole, which is a source of most of the ice tliat is spread over this vast Southern Ocean, was the captain's firm opinion. He also thought it probable tl*at this land must extend furthest to the north, where it is opposite to the Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Ice had always been found by him further to the north in these oceans than any where else, and this he judged could not be the case, if there were not land of con- siderable extent to the south. However, the greatest part of this southern continent, if it actually exist, must lie withhi the polar circle, where the sea is so encumbered with ice that the land is rendered inac- cessible. So great is the risk which is run in exa- mining a coast in these unknown and icy seas, that our commander, with a modest and well-grounded boldness, could assert that no man would ever ven- ture further than he had done, and that the lands which may lie to the south will never be explored. Thick fogs, snow-storms, intense cold, and every thing beside that can render navigation dangerous, must be encountered; all which difficulties are greatly heightened by the inexpressibly horrid aspect of the country. It is a country doomed by nature never once to feel the warmth of the sun's rays, but to lie buried in everlasting snow and ice. Whatever ports there may be on the coast, they are almost en« tirely covered with frozen snow of a vast thickness. If, however, any one of them shimld be so far open as to invite a ship into it, she would run the risk of being fixed there for ever, or of comins out in an ice island. To this may be added, that the islands and floats, on the coast, the great falls from the ice cliffs in the port, or a heavy snow-storm, attended with a sharp frost, might be equally fatal. I,: I li.t 238 CAPTAIN cook's - Captain Cook had now made the circuit of the southern ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the pole, and out of the reach ot navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, he had not only settled the situation of some old discoveries, b; t made many new ones, and indeed, even in that part had left but tittle more to be accomplished. The intention of the voyage, had, in every respect, being fully answered, and the southern hemisphere sufficiently explored. A final end was herebv put to the searching after a southern continent, which, for nearly two centuries past, had occasionally engrossed the attention of some of the maritime powers, and had been urged with q:reat ardour by piiilosophers and geographers in different ages. The great purpose of his navigation round the globe being thus completed, the captain began to direct his views towards England. Soon after our commander had come to this deter- mination, he demanded of the officers and petty officers, in pursuance of his instructions, the log- books and journals they had kept, which were deli- vered to him accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the Admiralty. He enjoined them also, and the whole rrew, not to divulge where they had been, till they were permitted to do so by their lordships ; — an injunction, a compliance with which might probably be rendered somewhat difficult, from the natural tendency there h in men, to relate the extraordinary enterprises and adventures wherein they have been concerned. As the Resolution approached towards the Cape of Good Hope, she fell in first, with a Dutch East Indiaman from Bengal, cammanded by Capt. Bosch ; and the next with an English Indiaman, being tho True Briton from China, of which Captain Broadly was the commander. Mr. Bosch very obligingly t V( SECOND TOTAGB. 237 By offered to our navigators, sugar, arrack, and what- ever he had to spare ; and Captain Broadly, with the most ready generosity, sent them fresh provisions, tea and various articles, which could not fail of being peculiarly acceptable to people in their situation. Even a parcel of old newspapers furnished no slight gratification to persons who had so long been deprived of obtaining any intelligence concerning their country and the state of Europe. From these vessels Captain Cook received some information with regard to what had happened to the Adventure after her separation from the Resolution. On Wednesday, the 22d of March, he anchored in Table Bay, where he found several Dutch ships, some French, and the Ceres, an English East Indiaman, bound directly for England, under the command of Captain Newte. By this gentleman he sent a copy of the preceding parts of his journal, some charts, and otiier drawings to the Admiralty. During the circumnavigation of the globe, from the period of our commander leaving the Cape of Good Hope to his return to it again, he had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues. This was an extent of voyage, nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of the earth, and which had never been accomplished before by any ship in the same compass of duration. In such a case, it could not be a matter of surprise that the rigo^ing and sails of the Resolution should be essentially damaged, and even worn out; and yet in all this great run, which had been made in every latitude between nine and seventy-one, she did not spring either low-mast, top-mast, lower or top-sail yard ; nor did she so much as break a lower or top-mast shroud. These happy circumstances were owing to the good proper- ties of the vessel, and the singular care and abilities of her officers. On the remainder of the voyage it is not necessary to enlarge. Though it was conducted with the saiuc !!'•! t'l . . "■' if i ■ ^i 238 CAPTAIN COOF'S attention to navigation and geography, and with the same sagacity in marking whatever was worthy of observation ; nevertheless, as it was not employea in traversing unknown seas, or in discovering countries that had not been heard of before, it may be suffi* cient briefly to mention the places at which Captain Cook touched before his arrival in England. The repairs of the ship having been completed, and the necessary stores got on board, together with a fresh supply of provisions and water, he left the Cape of Good Hope on the 27th of April, and reached the island of St. Helena on the 15th of May. Here he staid till the 21st, when he sailed for the island of Ascension, where he anchored on the 28th. From this place he directed his course, on the 31st, for the island of Fernando de Neronha, at which he arrived on the 9th of June. In the progress of the voyage, our commander made an experiment upon the stUl for procuring fresh water ; and the result of the trial was, that the in- vention is useful upon the whole, but that to trust entirely to it would by no means be advisable. Indeed, provided there is not a scarcity of fuel, and the coppers are good, as much water may be obtained as wiU support life; but no efforts will be able to procure a quantity sufficient for the preservation of health, especially in hot climates. Captain Cook was convinced by experience^ that nothing contri- butes more to the health of^ seamen than having plenty of water. On the 14th of July the captam came to an anchor in the Bay of Fayal, one of the Azore Islands. His sole design in stopping here was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity of nndmg the rate of the watch, that hereby he might be enabled to fix the longitude of these islands with the greater degree of certainty. No sooner, therefore, had our commander anchored than he sent an officer to wait on the English consul, and to acquaint the governor v»ith the arrival of our na to m( on Ml SQ ce Oi he fro wl lof ft SECOND VOYAGE. 298 navigators, requesting his permission for Mr. Wales to make observations on snore for the purpose now mentioned. Mr. Dent, who then acted as consul, not only obtained this permission, but accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden to 6Qt up his instruments. This object being accomplished. Captain Cook pro- ceeded, on the 19th, with all expedition for England. On the 30th of the same month, he anchored at Spit- head, and landed at Portsmouth, having beien absent from Great Britain three years and eighteen days, in which time, and under all clianges of climate, he had lost but four men^ and only one of them by sickness. if: III i .' i ; :n tm^l «>; ii'; '^ .• : " 'ftroirjA ••?» -.-"■'■ - . ■^iii.v^W "'*«i 'J ■U'Ti:{iij^il .'' '. ■'■ ■'■ r<: •iuoifus '•/■ ?y'H ii- . ■ , CHAPTER IV. ACCOUNT OF CAPTAIN COOK DURING THIS PERIOD BK- TWEBN HIS SECOND YOYAGB AND HIS VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. The able manner in which Captain Cook had con- ducted the preceding voyage, tne discoveries he had made, and his complete determination of the grand point he had been sent to ascertain, justly ard pow- erfully recommended hira to the protection and encouragement of all those who had patronized the undertaking. No alteration had occurred, during his absence, in the presidency of the Admiralty de- partment. The noble lord whose extensive views had taken such a lead in the plans of navigation and discovery, still continued at the head of that Board ; and it could not be otherwise than a high satisfac- tion to him that so extraordinary a degree of success had attended his designs for the enlargement of sci- ence. His lordship lost no time in representing Capt. Cook's merits to the king ; nor did his majesty stand in need of solicitations to show favour to a mnn who had so eminently fulfilled his royal and munifi- rent intentions. Accordingly our navigator, on the 0th of August, was raised to the rank of a post cap- tain. Three davs afterwards he received a more distinguished and substantial mark of the approba- tion of government ; for he was then appointed a captain in Greenwich hospital — a situation which was intended to afford hira a pleasing and honourable reward for his illustrious labours and services. ACCOUNT OP CAPTAIN COOK. 241 I 1 .1 It was easily supposed that the loverg of science would, in general, be peculiarly attentive to the effects resulting from Captain Cook's discoveries, and were anxious to see them in print. It was not till some time after Captain Cook's leaving England that his work was published ; but, in the mean while, the superintendence of it was undertaken by his learned and valuable friend Dr. Douglas, whose late promotion to the mitre has af- forded pleasure to every literary man of every deno- mination. When the " Voyage" appeared, it came recommended by the accuracy and excellency of its charts, and by a great variety of engravings from the curious and beautiful drawings of JVfr. Hodges. This work was followed by the publication of the original astronomical observations, which had been made by Mr. Wales in the Resolution, and by Mr. Bayley in the Adventure. It was at the expense of the Commis- sioners of Longitude that these observations were made, and it was by their order that they were print- ed. The book of Mr. Wales and Mr. Bayley displays in the strongest light the scientific use and value of Captain Cook's voyage. Though Captain Cook was expected to sit down in repose after his toils and labours, the design of further discoveries was not laid aside. The illusion, indeed, of a Terra Australis Incognita to any pur- poses of commerce, colonization, and utility, had been dispelled; but another grand Question remained to be determined, and that was tne practicability of a northern passage to the Pacific Ocean. It had long been a favourite object with navigators and particularly with the English to discover a shorter, a more commodious, and more profitable course of sailing to Japan and China, and mdeed to the East Indies in general, than by making the tedi- ous circuit of the Cape of Qood Hope. To find a western passage round North America had beer attempted by several bold adventurers, from Fro 20 n m 'I 1 1. 242 ACCOUNT OF CAFT. COOK BETW££N bi»her'8 first voyage in 1576, to those of James and of Pox in 1631. By these experimeuts a larger ad- dition was made to the knowledge of the northern extent of America, and Hudson's and Baffin's Bays were discovered. But the wished-for passage on that side into the Pacific Ocean was still unattained, nor were the various attempts of our countrymen, and of the Dutch, to find such a passage by sailing round the north of Asia in an eastern direction, at- tended with better success. Wood's failure in 1676 appears to have concluded the lon^ list of unfortunate expeditions in that country. Tlie discovery, if not absolutely despaired of, had been unsuccessful in such a number of instances, that it ceased for many years to be an object of pursuit. The question was again revived in the present century. Mr. Dobbs, a warm advocate for the pro- baoility of a north-west passage through Hudson's Bay, once more called the attention of this country to that undertaking. In consequence of the spirit by him excited, Captain Middleton was sent out by government in 1741, and Captains Smith and More in 1746. But though an Act of Parliament had been passed which secured a reward of twenty thousand pounds for the discovery of a passage, the accomplish- ment of this favourite object contmued at as great a distance as ever. To ascertain a matter of such importance and magnitude in navigation was reserved to be another glory of Geo. III. The idea was peculiarly suited to the enlightened mind of the noble lord at the head of tlie Admirality^and he adopted it with ardour. Preparatory to the execution of the design, Lord Mulgrave sailed with two ships, to determine how far navigation was [iracticable towards the north pole. In this expedition his lordship met with the same .nsuperuble difficulties which had been experienced by tornier voyagers. Nevertheless, the expectation oi opening a communication between the Pacific and si HIS d£CONO AND THIRD YOYAOB. 243 the Atlantic Ocean by a northerly coarse was not abandoned, and it was resolved that a voyage »hould be undertaken for that purpose. For the conduct of an enterprise, the operations of which were intended to be so new, so extensive, and so various, it was evident that great ability, skill, and experience were indispensably necessary. That Captain Cook was of all men the best qualified for carrying it into execution, was a matter that couid not be called in question. But however ardently it might be wished that he would take upon him the command of the service, no one (not even his friend and patron, Lord Sandwich himself) presumed to solicit him upon the subject. The benefits he had already conferred on science and navigation, and the labours and dangers he had gone through, were so many and great, that it was not deemed reasonable to ask him to engage in fresh perils. At the same time, nothing could be more natural than to consult him upon every thing relative to the business ; and his advice was particularly requested with regard to the most proper person for conducting the voyage. To determine this point, the captain. Sir H. Palliser, and Mr. Stephens, were invited to Lord Sandwich's to dinner. Here, besides taking into consideration what otficer should be recommended to his Majesty for accomplishing the purposes in view, many things were said concerning the nature of the design. Its grandeur and dignity, the consequences of it to navi- gation and science, and the completion it would give to the whole system of discoveries, were enlarged upon in the course of the conversation. Capt. Cook was so fired with the contemplation and representa- tion of the object, that he started up. and declared that he himself would undertake the direction of the enterprise. It is easy to suppose with what pleasure the noble lord and the other gentlemen received a proposal which was so agreeable to their secret widhes, and which they thought of the highest iih- 844 ACCOUNT OP CAPT. COOK BBTTrBBM y q'^t^f portance towards attaining the ends of the voyi^o. No time was lost by the Earl of Sandwich in laying tlie matter before the Kins ; and Captain Cook was appointed to the command of the expedition on the 10th of February, 1776. At the same time it was agreed that, on his return to England, he should be restored to his situation at Greenwich, and if no va- cancy occurred during the interval, the officer who succeeded him was to resign in his favour. The command and the direction of the enterprise oeing thus happily settled, it became an object of great importance to determine what might be the best course that could be given to the voyage. All former navigators round the globe had returned to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope. But to Captain Cook the arduous task was now assigned of attempt- ing it by reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia and America ; and the adoption of this resolu- tion was, I believe, the result oi his own reflections upon the subject. The usual plan, therefore, of dis- covery was reversed ; so that, instead of a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the former was to be tried. Whatever openings or inlets there might be on the east side of America, that lie in a direction which could afford any hopes of a passage^ it was wisely foreseen that the ultimate success of the expedition would depend upon there being an open sea between the west side ot that continent and the extremities of Asia. Accordingly Captain Cook was ordered to proceed into the Pacific Ocean, through the chain of the new islands which had never been visited by him in the southern tropic. After having crossed tlie equator into the northern parts of that ocean, he was then to hold such a course as might probably fix many interesting points in geography, and produce intermediate discoveries, in nis progress northward to the principal scene of his operations. With regard to this jcrand object, it was determined, for the wisest re in A ti HIS SF.C0:7D AND THIRD YOYAOB. 245 reasons, and after the most mature deliberation and inquiry, that upon his arrival on the coast of New Albion, he should proceed northward as far as lati- tude 65 deg., and not lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, until he had got into that latitude. To give every possible encouragement to the pro- secution of the great design in view, the motives of interest were added to the obligations of duty. In the Act of Parliament which passed in 1745, the re- ward of twenty thousand pounds had been held out only to the ships belonging to any qf hU Majesty^s subjectSy wliile his majesty's own ships were excluded. Another and more capital defect of this Act was that it confined the reward to such ships alone as should discover a passage through Hudson's Bay. By a new law which passed in 1776, both these defi- ciencies were effectually remedied. It was now enacted, **that if any ship belonging to any of his Majesty's subjects, or to his Majesty^ shall find out and sail through any passage by sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean, m any directiouy or pa- rallel of the northern hemisphere, to the northward of the fifty-second degree of northern latitude, the owners of such ship, if belonging to any of his Ma- iesty's subjects, or the commander y qfficersy and teamen of such ship belonging to his Majesty y shall receive, as a reward for such discovery, the sum of twenty thousand pounds." That every thing might be done which could faci- litate the success of the grand expedition. Lieutenant Pickersgill was sent out, in 1776, with directions to explore the coast of Baffin's Bay ; and, in the next year, Lieutenant Young was commissioned not only to examine the western parts of that bay, but to en- deavour to find a passage on that side from the At- lantic to the Pacific Ocean. Nothing was performed Oy either of these gentlemen that promoted the pur- poses of Captain Cook's voyage. i i MM ^i*"^*^ Ub ACCOUNT OP CAPT. COUK UBTWBBM Two vessels were fixed upon by government for the intended service, — the Resolution and tlie Dis- covery. The command of the former was given to Capt. Cook, and of the other to Captain Gierke. To the Resolution was assigned the same complement of officers and men which she had during her preceding voyage : and the only difference in the establishment of the Discovery from that of the Adventure was in the single instance of her having no maritime officer on board. From the time of the two ships being put into commission, the greatest degree of attention and zeal was exerted by the Earl oi Sandwich, and the rest of the Board of Admiralty, to have them equipped in the most complete manner. Both the vessels were supplied with as much of every necessary article as could conveniently be stowed, and with the best of each kind that could be procured. Whatever like- wise, the experience oi le former voyages had shown to be of any utilitv in preserving the health of sea- men, was provided in large abundance. That some permanent benefit might be conveyed to the inhabi- tants of Otaheite, and of the other isles of the Pacific Ocean, whom our navigators might happen to visit, it was graciously commanded by his Majesty that an assortment of useful animals should be carried out to those countries. Accordingly a bull, two cows with their calves, and several sheep, with hay and com for their subsistence, were taken on board ; and it was intended to add to these other serviceable animals, when Captain Cook should arrive at the Cape of Good Hope. With the same benevolent purposes, the captain was furnished with a sufficient quantity of such of our European garden-seeds as could not fail of being a valuable present to the newly-discovered islands, by adding fresh suppli('» of food to their own vegetable productions. Hy order of the Board of Admiralty, many articles be- sides were delivered to our commander which tvere HIS 8BCONO AND THIRD VOTAOB. 247 mlculated in Tarious ways to improve the condition of tlie natives ol the otiier Iiemispliere. Still further to promote a friendlv intercourse with them, and to carry on a traffic that might be profitable on both Bides, an ample assortment was provided of iron tools and trinkets. An attention no less humane was extended to the wants of our own people. Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for the crews of the two ships ; and nothing was denied to our navigators tliat could be supposed to be in the least conducive to their health, or even to their convenience. It was not to tliese things only that the extraordi- nary care of Lord Sandwich, and of the other gentle- men at the head ofthe naval department, was confined. They were equally solicitous to afford every assist- ance that was calculated to render the expedition of public utility. Several astronomical and nautical instruments were intrusted by the Board of Lonui- tude to Captain Cook, and Mr. King his second lieutenant, who hud undertaken to make the neces- sary observations, during the voyage, for the im- ' provement of astronomy and navigation. It was ^ originally intended that a professed observator should ^ be sent out in the Resolution ; but the scientific > abilities of the captain and his lieutenant rendered : the appointment of such a person absolutely uinie- i eessary. The case was somewhat different with re- t gard to the Discovery. Mr. William Bayley, who ' had already given satisfactory proofs of his skill and •^ diligence as an observator while he was employed in t Captain Furneaux's ship during the late voyage, wus engaged a second time in that capacity, and appointed to sail on board Captain Clerke's vessel. The de- - partment of natural history was assigned to Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, wiio was as i' willing, as he was well qualified, to describe every thing in that branch of science which should occur wortiiy of notice. Prom the remarks of this gentle- k 1- 1 ■ 1 ;i;li '' ill HWMffiMmfrwufi'tBaaa'^ ' 'rf^—, -f, rt: ^18 ACCOUNT OF CAPT. COOK, kc. n W\ man Captain Cook bad derived considerable assist- ance in his last navigation, especially with regard to the very copious vocabulary of the lanffutige of Otaheite, and the comparative specimen of the lan- guages of the other islands which had then been visited. There were several young men among our commander's sea-officers, who, under his direction, could be usefully employed in constructing charts, in taking views of tlie coasts and headlands near which our voyagers might pass, and in drawing plans of the bays and harbours in which they should anchor. Without a constant attention to this ob- ject, the captain was sensible that his discoveries could not be rendered profitable to future navigators. That he might go out with every help which could serve to make the result of the voyage entertaining to the generality of readers, as well as instructive to the sailor and the scholar, Mr. Webber was fixed upon, and engaged to embark in the Resolution, for the express purpose of supplying the unavoidable imperfections of written accounts, by enabling our people to preserve, and to bring home, such drawings of tlie most memorable scenes of their transactions as could only bu executed by a professed and skilful artist. As the ships were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands, it had been determined not to omit tlie only opportunity which might ever ofier of car- rying Omai back to his native country. Accordingly he left London, on the 24th of June, in company with Captain Cook, and it was with a mixture of regret and satisfaction that he took his departure. - ■. '■ ' ' I .4,. v.-! IhU .':■■' ■ •■,•■.,.' »r ^ / . . . . !)• Ixi^ Iniiiixi ao •■ ■ :; .: • ■ : \ ,-:.iT \'. ->T .;•- -..-:.. V> iii^a^^*a;*| &Jil- If ' g^w'-;": •fin -nnf 5^.il t- 1 S <:a^f 'T" ; •' -iW* - " t« " ^ ;:K.^. ^^hiii^f * • -;;-*« |..V- CHAPTER V. RAnUATIVB OP CAPTAIN OOOK'S VOTAOB TO THB PAOI- FIO OCEAN, TO TUB PERIOD OF HIS DEATH. Every preparation for the voyage bein«^ completed, Captain Cook received an order to proceed to Ply- mouth, and to take the Resolution under his command. Having accordingly p^iven the proper directions to Captam Clerke, he sailed from tne Nore to the Downs on the 25th of June. On the 30th of the same month, he anchored in Plymouth Sound, where the Discovery had already arrived. It was the 8th of July before our commander received his instruc' tions for the voyage, and at the same time he was ordered to proceed with the Resolution to the Cnpe of Good Hope. Captain Clerke, who was detained m London by some unavoidable circumstances, wus to follow as soon as he could join his ship. In the evening of the 12th, Capt. Cook stood out of Plymouth Sound, and pursued his course down the Channel. It was very early that he began his judicious operations for preserving the health of hia crew; for, on the 17th, the ship was smoked between the decks with gunpowder, and the spare sails were well aired. It being found that there was not hay and coni sufficient for the subsistence of the stock of animals on board till the arrival of our people at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Cook determined to touch at Teneriffe. This island he thought better adapted to the purposes of procuring these articles, and other .Si mu^^ssmti iiiriT7-'-iirii,i 250 CAPTAIN cook's I ti It M refreshments, than Madeira. On the Ist of Augnsti he anchored in the road of Santa Cmz, and immedi- ately dispatched an officer to the governor, who, with the utmost politeness, granted every thing which our commander requested. Were a judgment to be formed from the appear- ance of the country in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe is so bar- ren a spot as to be Insufficient for the maintenance even of its own inhabitants. It was proved, how- ever, by the ample supplies which our navigators received, that the islanders had enough to spare for visiters. The necessary articles of refreshm ant were procured at such moderate prices, as tc confirm Captain Cook in his opinion that Teneriife is a more eligible place than Madeira for ships to touch at which are bound on long voyages. Indeed the wine of the latter island is far superior to that of the for- mer ; but then it can only be purchased by a sum (A money proportionably large. The air and climate of Teneriffe are in general remarkably healthful, and particularly adapted ♦o give relief in pulmonary complaints. A sensible and well-informed gentleman, who resided in the island, rndeavoured to account for this, from its being always in a person's power to procure a different temperature of the air, by residing at different heights in the island. He expressed, therefore, his surprise that the physicians of England should never have thought of sending their consumptive patients to TenerifiTo, instepd of Nice or Lisbon. Although it is not understood that there is any gre^t similarity between the manners of the English and those of the Spaniards, it was observable that the difference between them was very little perceived by Omai. He oiily said that the Spaniards did not appear to be so friendly as the English, and that, in their persons, they approached to some resemblance of his countrvmen. ,.. .. _ „:, TiIIRD VOYAGE. 251 - On the 4tl], Captain Cook sailed from TenerifTe, and proceeded on his voyage. Such was his atten- tion, both to the discipline and health of the company, that twice in the space of five days he exercised them at sreat guns and small arms, and cleared and smolced the ship below decks. On the evening of the lOthy when the Resolution was at a small distance from the island of Bonavista, she ran jo close upon a immber of sunken rocks, that she did but just weather the breakers. The situation of our voyagers, for a few minutes, v/as very alarn^ing. In this situ- ation the captain, with the intrepid coolness which distinguished his clia:.'!cter, did not choose to sound, as that, witliout any possibility of lessening, might have heightened the danger. While cur commander was near the Cape de Verd Islands, he had an opportunity of correcting an as> sertion of Mr. Nicholson's with regard to the manner of sailing by those islands, which, if implicitly trusted to, might prove of dangerous consequence. On the 13th, our navigators arrived before Port Praya in the island of St. Jago ; but as the Discovery was not there, and little water had been expended in tiie passage from Teneriffe, Captain Cook did not think proper to go in, but stood to the southward. On the 1st of September, our navigators crossed the equator. While, on the 8th, Captain Cook was near tne eastern coast of Brazil, he was at consider- able pains to settle its longitude, which, till some better astronomical observations are made on shore in that country, he concluded to be thirty-five de- grees and a half, or thirty -six degrees west, at most. On the 18th of October, the Resolution came to anchor in Table Bay at the Cape of Good Hope ; and the usual compliments having been paid to Baron Plattcnburg, tlie governor, Captain Cook immediately applied himself to his customary operations. No- thing remarkable occurred till the evening of the 81st, when a tempest arose from the south-east, which I . 1 i i'-i'i i liMl HRIBB 252 CAPTAIN C00K*8 lasted three days, and which was so violent, that th^ Resolution was the only ship in the bay that rode out the ffale without dragging her anchors. The effects 01 the storm were sensibly felt by our people on shore ; for their tents and observatory were torn to pieces, and their astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damase. On the 3d of Novem- ber the tempest ceased, and the next day the English were enabled to resume their different employments. It was not till the 10th of the month that Captain Cook had the satisfaction of seeing the Discovery arrive in the Bay, and effect her junction with the Resolution. She had sailed from England on the Ist of August, and would have reached the Cape of Good Hope a week-sooner, if she had not been driven from the coast by the late storm. Every assistance wats immediately given to put her into a proper condition for proceeding on her voyage. While the necessary preparations for th6 future navigation were completing, a disaster happened with regard to the cattle which had been carried out in the Resolution. They had been conveyed on shore for the purpose of grazing. The bull, and two cows with their calves, had been sent to graze along with some other cattle ; but Captain Cook was ad- vised to keep the sheep, which were sixteen in num- ber, close to the tents, where they were penned up every evening. During the night preceding the 14th, some dogs, having got in among them, forced them out of the pen, killed four, and dispersed the rest. Six of them were recovered the next day; but the two rams, and two of the finest ewes in the whole flock, were amongst those which were missing. Baron Plattenburg being at this time in the country, our commander applied to Mr. Uemmy, the lieutenant governor, and to the fiscal, for redress; and both these gentlemen promised to use their endeavours for the recovery of the lost sheep. It is the boast of ciie Dutch that the police at the Cape is so care- is ■.ii THIRD VOYAQB. 253 fally executed, that it is scarcely possible for n slave, with all his cunning and knowledge of the country, to eifectuate his escape ; nevertheless Capt. Cook's sheep evaded all the vigilance of the fiscaPs officers and people. At length, after much trouble and expense, by employing some of the meanest and lowest scoundrels in the place, he recovered all but the two ewes, of which he never could hear the least tidings. The character given of the fellows to whom the captain was obliged to have recourse, by the person who recommended their being applied to, was, that for a ducatoon t'hey would cut their mas- ter's throat, burn the house over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the ashes. In the supplies which were provided at the Cape, Captain Cook paid particular regard to the nature and extent of his undertaking. As it was impossible to tell when or where he might meet with a place which could so amply contribute to his necessities, he thought proper to lay in for both ships such a store of provisions as would be sufficient to last them for two years and upwards. Our commander having given a copy of his instruc- tions to Captain Clerke, and an order directing him how to proceed in case of a separation, weighed from Table Bay on the 30th of November, though it was not till the 3d of December that he got clear of the land. On the 6th the ships passed through several spots of water nearly of a red colour. When some of this was taken up, it was found to contain a large quantity of small animals, of a reddish hue, and wliich the microscope discovered to resemble a cray- fish. As our navigators pursued their course to the south-east, 'a very strong gale, which they had from the westward, was followed by a mountainous sea, in consequence of which the Resolution rolled and tumbled so much, tiiat the cattle on board were with the utmost difficulty preserved. Soon after, several of the goats, especially the males, together with ! ti. I 254 CAPTAIN COO' 3 Bome sheepi died, notwithstanding all the care that was exercised by our people. This misfortune was chiefly owing to the coldness of the weather, which now began to be felt in the most sensible manner. On the 12th land was seen, which, upon a nearer approach, was found to consist of two islandso That, which lies most to the south, and is the largest, was judged by Captain Cook to be about fifteen leagues in circuit. The northerly one is about nine leagues in circuit ; and the two islands are at the distance of five leagues from each other. As the ships passed th ough the channel between them, our voyagers could not discover, with the assistance of their best glasses, either tree or shrub on either of them. The^' seemed to have a rocky and bold shore, and their surface is for the most part composed of barren mountains, the summits and sides oi which were co- vered with snow. These two islands, together with four others which lie from nine to twelve degrees of longitude more to the east, ard nearly in tne same latitude, had been discovered by Captains Marion du Fresne and Crozet, French navigators, in January, 1772, on their passage in two ships from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Islands. As no names had been assigned to them in a chart of the Southern Ocean, which Capt. Crozet communicated to Capt. Cook in 1775, our commander distinguished the two larger ones by calling them Prince Edward's Islands, after his Majesty's tourth son. To the other four, with a view of commemorating the discoverers, he gave the name of Marion's and Crozet's Islands. Though it was now the middle of summer in this hemisphere, the weather was not less severe than what IS generally met with in England in the very depth of winter. Instead, however, of being discou^ raged by this circumstance, the captain shaped his course in such a manner as to pass to the southward of Marion's and Crozet's Islands, that he might \;:it into the latitude of land which had been disco\<^ied nl THIRD VOYAGE. 26d by M. de Kergulen, another French navigator It was part of our commander's instructions to examine whether a good harbour might not here be found. As our voyagers, on the 24th, were steering to the eastward, a fbg clearing up a little, which had in- volved them for some time, and which had rendered their navigation both tedious and dangerous, land was seen bearing south-south-east. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to bean island of considerablt* height, and about three leagues in circuit. Another island of the same magnitude was soon after disco- vered, and in a short space a third, besides some smaller ones. At times, as the fog broke away, there was the appearance of land over the small islands, and Captain Cook entertained thoughts of steering for it, by running in between them. But, on drawing nearer, he found that so long as the weather continued foggy, this would be a perilous attempt : for if there siiould be no passage, or if our people should meet with any sudden danger, there was such a prodigious sea breaking on all the shores in a frightful surf, that it would have been impos- sible for the vessels to have got off. At the same time ttie captain saw another island ; and as he did not know how many more might succeed, he judged it prudent, in order to avoid getting en tangUd among unknown islands in a thick fog, to wait for clearer "vtather. The island last mentioned is ahigh round rock,which was named Bligh's Cap. Our commander had re- ceived some very slight information concerning it at Teneriffe, and his sagacity in tracing it was such as Mumediatelv led him to determine that it was the same that M. de Kergulen hud culled the Island of Rendezvous. His reason for giving it that name is not very apparent ; for nothing can rendezvous upoa it but lowfc of the air, it beUig certahily inaccessible to every other animal. The weather beginning to cleur UP, Capt. Cooksteer(>d in for the land, of which Mr t .; I ■ U 256 CAPTAIN COOK'S i I u a faint view had been obtained in the morning, Thia was Kergeulen's Land. No sooner had oar naviga- tors got off Cape Francois than they observed the coast to the southward to be much indented by pro- jecting points and bays ; from which circumstance they were sure of finding a harbour. Accordingly such a harbour was speedily discovered , in which the ships came to anchor on the 25th) being C9iristmas day. Upon landing, our commander found the shore almost entirely covered with penguins and other birds, and with seals. The latter, which were not numerous, having been unaccustomed to visitors, were so insensible of fear, that as many as were wanted for the purpose of making use of their fat or blubber, were killed without difficulty. Fresh water was so plentiful, that every gully afforded a large stream ; but not a single tree or shrub, or the least sign of it, could be met with, and but very little herbage of any sort. Here the captain displayed the British flag, and named the place Chiistmas Harbour, from our voyagers having arrived in it on that festival. From this desolate coast Captain Cook took hia departure on the 31st, intending agreeably to his in- structions, to touch next at New Zealand, that he might obtain a supply of water, take in wood, and make hay for the cattle. Their number was now considerably diminished ; for two youi.g bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and several of the goats, had died while ournavigators were employed in exploring Kerguelen's Land. For some time they had ^resh gnles, and tolerably clear weather. But, on the 8id of January, 1777, the wind veered to the north, where it continued eight days, and was attended with so thick a fog, that the ships ruzr above three hundred leagues in the dark. Occasionally the weather would clear up, and give our people a sight of the sun : but this happened very seldom, and was always of short continuance. However, amidst all the darkness pro- I THIRD VOVAOE. 257 ga- the )ro« ince Lthe ihore jther B not itors, were fat or water . large 3 least r little played istmas in it on )okbifl hisin- ihat be i, and jaa now 1, one of kts, bad :ploring td *re8b the 8id i,wbere ,witb 80 hundred er would mn : but of abort pess pro- f inced by the fog, the vessels, though they seldom saw each other, were so fortunate, in consequence of frequently firing guns as signals, that they did not lose company. On the 12th, the northerly winds ended in a calm. This was succeeded in a little time by a wind from the southward, which brought on a rain that continued for twenty-four hours. At the end of the rain the wind freshened, and veering to the west, and north-west, was followed by fair and clear weather. Nothing very remarkable occurred to our voyagers till the 24th, when they discovered the coast of Van Dieman's Land ; and, on the 26th, the ships came to an anchor in Adventure Bay. Captain Cook, as soon as he had anchored, ordered the boats to be hoisted out, in one of which he went himself to look for the most commodious place for obtaining the necessary supplies. Wood and water were found in abundance, and in places sufficiently convenient, but grass, which was most wante^d, was scarce, and at the same time very coarse. Necessity, however, obliged our people to put up with such as could be procured. On the 28th, the English, who were employed in cutting wood, were agreeablv surprised by a visit from some of the natives. They consisted of eight men and a boy, who approached our voyagers not only without fear, but with the most perfect confi- dence and freedom. There was only a single person among them who had any thing which bore the least appearance of a weapon, and that was no more than a stick about two feet long, and pointed at one end. These people were quite naked, and wore no kind of ornaments, unless some large punctures or ridges raised in different parts of their bodies, either in straight or curved lines, may be considered in that light. Most of them had their hair and beards smeared with red ointment, and the faces of some of them were painted with the same composition. Cvery present which Captain Cook made them thev \iA p ti I •i I ; m .11 »<— n-.inn mmmmmmmtmitm .«*•>., STiS CAI'TAIM COOKS received without tlu* least appearance of satisfaction. 01' bread and elephant Hdh, which were ofibred them, they refused to taste, but showed that they were fond f^f birds as an article of food. Two pigs, which the captain had brought on shore, havhig come within their reach, they seized them by the ears, as a do pigs, being a boar and a sow, to be carried about :i mile within the head of the bay, and saw them left there by the side of a fresh-water brook. It was at first his benevolent intention to make an additional present to Van Dieman's Land of a young bull and cow, together with some sheep and goats. But, upon reflection, he laid aside this design, being persuaded that the natives would destroy them, from their inca- pacity of entering into his views with regard to the improvement of their country. As pigs are animals which soon become wild, and are fond of the thickest cover of the woods, there was the greater probability of their being preserved. For the accommodation of the other cattle, an open place musthavt been chosen. . I THIRD VOlTAOE. fSoO nain- edthc about m left vas at itional lU and ;,upon suaded Lr inca- to the ininial* bickest babiUty tion ol I chosen, in wliich Bituation they could not possibJy have been concealed many days. On the 29th, about twenty of the inhabitants, men and boys, joined Capt. Cook, and such of his people as had landed with him, witliout manifesting the least si^n of fear or distrust. It was remarkable that one ot the Indians was conspicuously deformed ; nor was he more distinguished by the bump upon his back than by the drollery of his gestures, ana the humour of his speeches, which had the appearance of being intended for the entertainment of our voyagers. Un- fortunately the language in which he spoke to them was wholly unintelligible. To each of the group the cuptain gave a string of beads, and a medal which they seemed to receive with some satisfaction. On iron and iron tools they appeared to set no value. There was reason to believe that they were even ig- norant offish- hooks ; and yet it is difficult to suppose that a people who inhabit a sea-coast, and who were not observed to derive any part of their sustenance from the productions of the ground, should be unacquainted with some mode of catching fish. However, they were never seen to be thus employed, nor was any canoe or vessel discovered by which they could go upon the water. Though they had rejected tiie kind of fish which had been offered tliem, it was evident that shell-fish made a part of their food. After Capt. Cook had left the shore, several women and children made their appearance^ and were in- troduced to Lieut. King by some of the men that attended them. These females (a kangaroo skin excepted, which was tied over their shoulders, and seemed to be intended to support their infants) were as naked and as black as the men, and had their bodies marked with scars in the same manner. Many of the children had fine features, and were thought to be pretty ; but a less favourable report was made of the women, and especially those ad- vanced in years. Some of the gentlemen, however. 'V- ■«n«Mp< 260 CAi'TAIN COOK'S \ belonging to the Discoverv, as our commander was informeOy paid their adcfresses, and made liberal offers of presents, which were rejected with great disdain. It 14 certain that this gallantry was not very agreeable to the men, for an elderly roan, as he observed it, ordered the women to retire. The order was obeyed, but, on the part of some of the females^ with the appearance of a little reluctance. ■'^ 'r On the present occasion. Captain Cook made some proper ana pertinent reflections, which I shall deliver in his own words : " This conduct,*' says he " of Europeans among savages to their women is highly blanieable, as it creates a jealousy in their men that may be attended with consequences fatal to the suc- cess of the common enterprise, and to the whole body of adventurers, without advancing the private pur- poses of the individual, or enabling him to gain the object of his wishes. I believe it has generally b(;en found amongst uncivilized people, that where the women are easy of access, the men are the first to offer them to strangers ; and that, where this is not the case, neither the allurements of presents, nor the opportunity of privacy, will be likely to have the desired effect. This observation, I am sure, will hold good throughout all parts of the South &« , where 1 have been. Why, then, should men act so absurd a part as to risk their own safety, and that of all their companions, in pursuit of a gratification which they have no probability of obtaining i"' While our navigators were at Van Dieman's Land, they were successful in obtaining a plentiful crop of grass for their cattle, and such as was far moreex- cellent than what they had met with at their first going on shore. The quantity collected was judged by the captain to be sufficient to last till his varrival in New Zealand. Van Dieman's Land had been visited twice before. That name had been given it by Tasman, who dis- covered it in 1G42 ; from which time it had escaped THIRD VOYAGB. 801 I nU noiice of Huropean navigator:), till Capt. Purneaux ! * touched at it in 1773. It is well known that it is the •outhem point of New Holland, which 19 by far the largest island in the world ; indeed so large an island, as almost to deserve the appellation of a continent. While Captain Cook was in tliis country, he neg" lected nothing which could promote the knowledge of science and navigation. Here, as every where else, he settled the latitude and longitude of places, marked the variations of the compass, and recorded the nature of the tides. He corrected likewise an error of Captain Furneaux, with respect to the situ- ation of Maria's Islands ; on which subject he has candidly remarked that his own idea is not the re- suit of a more faithful, but merely of a second ex- amination. Mr. Anderson, during the few days in which the ships remained in Adventure Bay, exerted his usual diligence in collecting as full an account, as could be obtained in so short a period of time, of the natural E rod actions and the inhabitants of the country, little can be said concerning either the personal ac- tivity or genius of the natives. The first they do not seem to possess in any remarkable degree ; and, to all appearance, they have less of the last than even the nalf-am nated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego. Their not expressing that surprise which miffht have been expected from their seeing men so mucn unlike I themselves, and things to which they had hitherto I been utter strangers — that indifference for the pre- sents of our people, and their general inattention, were sufficient testimonies that they were not endued with any acuteness of understanding. What the ancient poets tell us of Fauns and Satyrs living in hollow trees, is realised in Van Dieman's Land. Some wretched constructions of sticks covered with bprk, and which did not deserve the name of huts, were indeed found near the shore; but these seemed sniy U> have been erected for temporary purposes. Mil . IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) .^'A^. 1.0 ^^ I I.I 1.25 125 y,|^ ... ■£ ^ a^ 12.0 Ml I. ^ 1^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 13 WEST MAIN STREET WFBSTER.N.Y. 14SM i716)«72-4S03 ' WSi CAPTAIN COOK'S Tlie most comfortable habitations of the natives wi^re afforded by the largest trees. Tliese had their trunks hollowed out by fire, to the height of six or s^vcn fpet ; and there was room enough in tliem for three or four persons to sit round a hearth made of clay. At the same time these places of shelter are durable ; for the people take care to leave one side of the tree sound, which is sufficient to keep it in luxuriant growth. The inhabitants of Van Dieman's Land are undoubtedly from the same stock with those of the northern parts of New Holland. Their language, indeed, appeared to be diff^erent; but how far the difference extended, our voyagers could not have an opportunity of determining. With regard to the New Hollanders in general, there is reason to sup- pose that they originally came from the same place with all the Indians of the South Sea. On the 30th of January, 1777, Captain Cook sailed from Adventure Bay, and, on the 12th of February, ^me to an anchor at his old station of Queen Char- lotte's Sound, in New Zealand. Being unwilling to h>se any time, he commenced his operations that very afternoon. By his order, several of the empty water casks were immediately landed, and a place was begun to be cleared for setting up the two observa- tories, and the erection of tents to accommodate a guard and the rest of the company, whose business miffht reouire them to stay on shore. Our navigators had not long been at anchor, before a number of canoes, filled with natives, came alongside of the •hips. However, very few of them woum venture on board, which appeared the more extraordinary, as the captain was well known to them all, and they could not be insensible how liberally he had behaved to them on former occasions. There was one man in particular whom he had treated with remarkable kindness during the whole of his last stay in this place, and yet neither professions of itnendship, nor presents, could prevail upon him to enter the Uesolution. t THIRD VOTAOB. 9d» as i There wa? a real cause Tor this shyness on the part of the New Zealanders. A dreadful ev^ml had hup- uened to some of Captain Funieaux's crew while he lay in Queen Charlotte^s Sound, after he had finally separated from Captain Cook in the former voyage. I'en men, who had been sent out in the lar^re cutter to gather wild greens for the ship's corapahy, were killed in a skirmish with the natives. What was the cause of the quarrel could not be ascertained, as not one of the company survived to relate the story. Lieutenant Burney, who was ordered to go in searcli of them, found only some fragments of their bodies, from which it appeared that they had been converted into the food of the inhabitants. It was the remem- brance of this event, and the fear of its being revenged, which now rendered the New Zealanders so fearful of entering the English vessels. From the conversation of Omai, who was on board the Adven- ture when the melancholy affair happened, they knew that it could not be unknown to Captain Cook. The captain, therefore, judged it necessary to use every endeavour to assure them of the continuance of his friendship, and that he should not disturb them on account of the catastrophe. It was most pro- bable in consequence of this assurance that they soon laid aside all manner of restraint and distrust. In the mean while the operations for refitting the ships, and for obtaining provisions, were carried on with great vigour. For the protection of the party on shore, our commander appointed a guard of teii marines, and ordered arms for all the workmen, with whom Mr. King and two or three petty officers con- stantly remained. A boat was never sent to a con- siderable distance without bein^ armed, or without being under the direction of sucn officers as misht be depended upon, and who were well acquainted with the natives. In Captain Cook's former visits to this country, he had never made use of such pre- cautions, nor was he now convinced of their absolute 264 CAPTAIN COOK'S nereflslly. But, after the tragical fate of the crew ^ of the Adventure's boat in tiiis Sound, and of Cafrt^" Marion du Fresne and some of his people in the Bay of Islands, in 1772, it was impossible to free our navigators from all apprehensions of experiencing a similar calamity. Whatever suspicions the inhabitants might at first entertain that their acts of barbarity would he revenged, they very speedily became so perfectly easy upon the subject, as to take up their residence close to our voyagers ; and the advantage of their coming to live with the English was not inconsiderable. Every day, when the weather would permit, some of them went out to catch fish ; and our people generally obtained, by exchanges, a good share of the produce Of their labours, in addition to the sup- ply which was afibrded by our own nets and lines. if or was there a deficiency of vegetable refreshments, to which was united spruce beer for drinlc ; so that if the seeds of the scurvy had been contracted by any of the crew, they would speedily have been removed by such a regimen. The fact, however, was^ that there were only two invalids upon the sick lists in both ships. »i'^^^ Curiosities, fish, and women, were the articles of commerce supplied by the New Zealanders. The two first always came to a good market ; but the latter did not happen at this time to be an acceptable com* modity. Our seamen had conceived a dislike to these people, and were either unwilling or afraid to associate with them — the good effect of which was, that our commander knew no instance of a man's quitting his station to go to the habitations of the Indians. A connexion with women it was out of Captain Cook's power to prevent ; but he never encouraged it, and was always fearful of its conse- quences. Many indeed are of opinion that such an intercourse is a great security among savages ; but H tills should ever be the case with those who remain ' THIIIO VOTAGB. 1»& and Bettle amonff them, it is generally otherwise with resj^ct to travellers and transient visitors. In such a situation as that of our navigators, a connexion with the women of the natives betrays more men than it saves. *' What else/' says the captain, ** can reasonably be expected, since all their views are sel- fish, without the least mixture of regard or attach- ment ? My own experience at least, which has been extensive, has not pointed out to me one instance to the contrary." Amorist the persons who occasionally visited the English was a chief of the name of Kahoora, who, as Capt. Cook was informed, had headed the party that cut off Captain Fumeaux's people, and had him- self Icilled Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. This man our commander was strongly solicited to put to death, even by some of the natives ! and Omai was perfectly eager and violent upon the subject. To these solicitations the captain paid not the least degree of attention. He even admired Kahoora's courage, and was not a little pleased with the con- fidence with which he had put himself into his power. Kahoora had placed his whole safety in the declarations that Captain Cook had uniformly made to the N&w Zealanders, which were, that he had always been a friend to them all, and would continue to be so, unless they gave him cause to act otherwise ; that as to their inhuman treatment of our people, he should think no more of it, the transaction having happened long ago, and when he was not present ; but that if ever tley made a second attempt of the same kind, they might rest assured of feeling the weight of his resentment. While our commander, on the 16th, was making an excursion for the purpose of collecting food for his cattle, he embraced tne opportunity, to inquire, as accurately as possible, into the circumstances which liad attendr:d the melancholy fate of our countrymen. Omai was his interpreter on this occasion. The wmm 266 CAPTAIN cook's result of the inquiry was, that tlie quarrel first took its rise from some thefts, in the commission of which the natives were detected, that there was no preme« ditated plan of bloodshed ; and that if these thefts had not unfortunately been too hastily l^sented, no mischief would have happened. Kahoora's greatest enemies, and even the very men who had most ear- nestly solicited his destruction, confessed at the same time that he had no intention of quarrelling with Captain Fumeaux's people, and much less of killing any of them, till the fray had actually commenced. Capt. Cook continued in this his last visit to New Zealand, the solicitude he had formerly shown to be of some essentia] future service to the country. To one chief he gave two goats, a male and female with a kid ; and to another two pigs, a boar and a sow. Although he obtained a promise from both these chiefs that they would not kill the animals which had been presented to them, he could not venture to place any great reliance upon their assurances. It was his full intention, on his present arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, to have left not only voats and hogs, but sheep, together with a young bull and two heifers. The accomplishment, however, of this resolution depended cither upon his finding a chief who was powerful enough to protect and keep the cattle, or upon his meeting with a place where there might be a probability of their being concealed from those who would ignorantly attempt to destroy them. Neither of these circumstance, happened to be con- formable to his wishes. At different times he had left in New Zealand ten or a dozen hoes, besides chose that had been put on shore bv Capt. Fumeaux. It will therefore be a little extraordinary if this race of animals should not increase and be preserved, either in a wild or a domestic state, or in both. Our commander was informed that Tiratou, a popular chief among the natives, had a number of cocks and henst and one sow, in his separate possession. With T I T THIRD VOYAGK. 2d7 \ regard to the g^ardens which had formerly been {ilantedy though they had almost entirely been ncg- eetcd, and some of them destroyed, they were not wholly unproductive. They were found to contain cabbages, onions, leeks, purslain, radishes, mustard, and a few potatoes. The potatoes, which had first been brought from the Cape of Good Hope, were greatly meliorated by change of soil, and, with proper cultivation, would be superior to those produced in most other countries. A great addition of knowledge was obtained during this voyage with respect to the productions of New Zealand, and the manners and customs of its inhabi- tants. The zeal of Captain Cook upon the subject was admirably seconded by the sedulous diligence of Mr. Anderson, who omitted no opportunity of col- lecting every kind and degree of information. I shall only so far trespass on the patience of my readers, as to mention a few circumstances tending to deli- neate the character of tiie natives. They seemed to be a people perfectly satisfied with the little they alreac^ possess ; nor are tliey remarkably curious either in their observations or their inquiries. New objects are so far from striking them with such a degree of surprise as miffht naturally be expected, that they scarcely fix their attention even for a moment. In the arts with which they are acquainted , they show as much ingenuity, both in invention and execution, as any uncivilized nations under similar circumstances. Without the least use of those tools, which ^re formed of metal, they make every thing that is necessary to procure tiieir subsistence, clothing, and military weapons; and all this is done by them with a neatness, a strength, and a conveni- ence, that are well adapted to the accomplishment of the several purposes they have in view. No people can have a quicker sense of an injury done to them tlian the New Zealanders, or be more ready to resent iti and vet thav want one characteristic of true bra 26d CAPTAIN COOK'a very; for they will take an opportunity of bein(( insolent, M'hen they think that there is no danger o1 their being punished. From the number of their weapons, ana their dexterity in using them, it appear* that war is their principal profession. Indeed, tbeir public contentions are so frequent, or rather so per- Ketual, that they must live under continual appre- ensions of being destroyed by each other. From, their horrid custom of eating the flesh of their ene > mies, not only without reluctance, but with peculiar satisfaction, it would be natural to suppose, that thev must be destitute of every humane feelin^r, even witn regard to their own party. This, however, is not thei case ; for they lament the loss of their friends with a violence of expression which argues the most tender remembrance of them. At a very early age the children are initiated into all the practices, whether good or bad, of their fathers ; so that a boy or girl, wheni onlv nine or ten years old, can perform the motions, and imitate the frightful gestures, by which the aged are accustomed to inspire their enemies with terror. They can likewise keep the strictest time in their song ; and it is with some degree of melody that they sing the traditions of their forefathers, their actions in war, and other subjects. The military achievements of their ancestors the New Zealanders celebrate with the highest pleasure, and spend much of their time in diversions of this sort, and in playing upon a musical instrument, which par- takes of the nature of a flute. With respect to tneir language, it is far from being harsh or disagreeable, though the pronunciation of it is freonently guttural ; nor, if we may judge from ; 3 meloay of some kinds of their songs, is it destitute of those qualities which lit it to be associated with music. Of its identity with the languages of the other islands throughout the South Sea, fresh proofs were exhibited during ihe present voyage. At the request of Omai Captain Cook consented Tom ' THIRD TOYAQB. 209 \ to take with liim two youths from New Zealand. Th^ they might not quit their native country under any delusive ideas of visiting it again, the captain took care to inform their parents, in the strongest terms, that they would never return. This declara- tion seemed, however, to make no kind of impression. The father of the youngest lad resigned him with an indijfference which' he would scarcely have shown at {)urting with a dog, and even stripped the boy of the ittle clothing he possessed, delivering him quite naked into the hands of our voyagers. This was not the case with the mother of the other vouth. She took her leave of him with all the marks of tender affection, that might be expected between a parent and a child on such an occasion; but she soon re- sumed her cheerfuhiess, and went away wholly un- concerned. On the 25th of the month, Captain Cook stood out of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and by the 27th, got clear of New Zealand. No sooner had the ships lost sight of land, than the two young adventurers from that country, one of whom was nearly eighteen years of age, and the other about ten, began deeply to repent of the step they had taken. It was the ex- perience of the sea-sickness which gavb this turn to their reflections, and all the soothing encouragement the English coiud think of was of but little avail. They wept both in public and in private, and made their lamentation in a kind of sonff, that seemed to be expressive of the praises of their country and people, from which they were to be separated for ever. In this disposition they continued for many days : but as their sea-sickness wore off^ and the tumult of their minds subsided, the fits of lamenta- tion became less and less frequent, and at length entirely ceased. By degrees their native country and their friends were forgotten, and they appeared to be as flrmly attached to cur navigators as if they had be^n bom in England. S70 CAPTAIN COOK'S In the prosecution of the voyage, Captain Cook met with unfavourable winds ; and it was not till the 20th of March tliat land was discovered. It was found to be an inhabited island, the name of which, as was learned from two of the natives who came off in a canoe, is Man^eea. Our commander examined the coast with his boats, and had a short intercourse with some of the inliabitants. Not being able to find a proper harbour for bringing the ships to an anchor- age, lie was obliged to leave the country unvisited, tiiough it seemed capable of supplying all the wants of our voyagers. The island oi Mangeea is full five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal heieht. It has, upon the whole, a pleasine aspect, ana might be made a beautiful spot by cultivation. The inhabitants, who appeared to be both numerous and well fed, seemed to resemble those of Otahelte and the Marquesas in the beauty of their persons ; and the resemblance as far as could be judged in so short a compass of time, takes place with respect to their general disposition and character. From the coast of Mangeea, our commander sailed in the afternoon of the dOth, and on the next dav land was again seen, within four leagues of which the ship arrived on the 1st of April. Our people could then pronounce it to be an island, nearly of the Baiue appearance and extent with that which had so lately been left. Some of the natives speedily put off in their canoes, and three of them were persuaded to come on board the Resolution : on which occasion their whole behaviour marked tnat they were quite at their ease, and felt no kind of apprehension that they should be detained or ill-used. In a visit from several others of the inhabitants, they manifested a dread of approaching near the cows and horses ; nor could they form the least conception of their nature. But the sheep and goats did not, in their opinion, surpass the limits of their ideas : for they gave our navigators to understand that they knew them to \i€ TUIKO VOYAOa. 271 i|)ird8. Ag there is not the most distant resemblance between a sheep or a goat and any winged animal, this may be thought to be ahnost an incredible ex- ample 01 human ignorance. But it should be remem- bered) that excepting hogs, dogs, and birds, these people were strangers to the existence of any other land animals. i In a further intercourse with the natives, who ^ad brought a hog, together with some plantains and jcocoa-nuts, they demanded a dog from our voyagers, and refused every thing besides which was onered in exchange. One of the gentlemen on board hap- jpened to have a dog and a bitch, which were great Inuisanues in the ship ; and these he might now nave disposed of in a manner that would have been of real future utility to the island. But he had no sucii views in making them the companions of his voyage. Omai, however, with a ^ood nature that reflects lionour upon him, parted with a favourite dog which he had brought from England ; and with this acqui- sition the people departed highly satisfied. On the ord of April, Captain Cook dispatched Mr. Gore with three boats, to endeavour to get upon the island. Mr. Gore, himself, Omai, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Burney , were the only persons that landed. The transactions of the day, of which Mr. Anderson drew up an ingenious and entertaining account, added to the stock of knowledfi^e gained by our navigators, but did not accomplish Captain Cook's principal object. Nothing was procured by the gentlemen from the island that supplied the wants ot the ships. In this expedition, Omai displayed that turn for exaggeration with which travellers have so frequently been charged. Being asked by the natives concerning the English, tlieir ships, their country, and the arms they made use of, his answers were not a little marvellous. He told these people that our country had ships as large us theur island, on board which were instruments of war (describing our guns) of such dhnensiuns, that 272 CAPTAIN C00K*8 I several persons raiffht sit within them. At the same time he assured tne inhabitants that one of these guns was sufficient to crush the whole island at a single shot. Though he was obliged to acknowledge tliat the guns on board the vessels upon their coast were but small, he contrived, by an explosion of, gunpowder, to inspire them with a formidable idea of their nature and effect. It is probable that this representation of things contributed to the preserva- tion of the gentlemen in their enterprise on shore, for a strong disposition to retain them had been shown by the natives. The island on which Mr. Gore, Mr. Anderson, Mr. fiurney, and Omai had landed, is called Wateeoo b^f the natives, and is a beautiful spot, having a surface composed of liills and plains, which are covered with a verdure, rendered extremely pleasant by the di- versity of its hues. Its inhabitants are very numer- ous, and many of the voung men were perfect models in shape; besides which they had complexions as delicate as those of the women, and appeared to be equally amiable in their dispositions. In their man- ners, their general habits of life, and their religious ceremonies and opinions, these islanders have a near resemblance to the people of Otaheite and its neigh- bouring isles, and their language was well understood both by Omai and the two New Zealanders. The next place visited by Captain Cook was a small island called Wennoa-ette, or Otakootai, to which Mr. Gore was sent at the head of a partv, who procured about a hundred cocoa-nuts for each ship, and some grass, together with a quantity of the leaves and branches of young trees for the cattle Though at this time no inhabitants were found in Wennooa-ette, yet as there remained indubitable marks of its being at least occasionally frequented, Mr. Gore left a hatchet and several nails, to the full value of what had been taken away. On the 5th, our commander directed his course fur TIIIRU VOTAOS. S79 t tbe same e of these sland at a knowledge :heir coast [plosion of aable idea \ that this t preserva- I shore, for een shown erson, Mr. ^ateeoo by : a surface rered with )y the di- ry numcx- ect models lexions as Ted to be heir man- religious ve a near its neigh- nderstood ok was a ootai, to Birtv, who ach ship, y of the le cattle found in dubitable iquented, the full ourse fur HarTcys*s Island, which was only at the dtotance of fifteen leagues, and where he hoped to procure some refreshments. This island had been discovered by bim, in 1773, during his last voyage^ when no traces were discerned of its having any mhabitants. It was now experienced to be well peopled, and by a race of men who appeared to diner much, both in person and disposition, from the natives of Watceoo. Their behaviour was disorderly and clamorous ; theii colour was of a deeper cast, and several of them had A fierce and rugged aspect. It was remarkable that not one of them had adopted the practice, so gene- rally prevalent among the people of tiic Southern Ocean, of puncturing or tatooing their bodies. But notwithstanding this singularity, the most unequi- vocal proofs were exhibited of their having the same common origin : and their language, in particular, approached still nearer to the dialect or Oraheite tuan that of Wateeoo, or Mangeea. No anchora<;e for the ships being found in Harvey's Island, Captain Cook quitted it without delay. The captain being thus disappointed at all the islands he had met with since his leaving New Zea^ land, and his progress having unavoidably been re- tarded by unfavourable winds, and other unforeseen circumstances, it became impossible to think of doing any thing this year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which he was still at so great a distance, though the season for his operations there was already begun. In this situation, it was absolutely necessary, in the first place, to pursue such measures as were most likely to preserve the cattle that were on board, A still more capital ob- ject was to save the stores and provisions of the ships, that he might the better be enabled to prose- cute the discoveries to the north, which could not now be commenced till a year later than was origin- ally intended. If he had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of water and of drass, it any ^4 CAPTAIN cook's of the islands he had lately visited, it was his purpose to have stood back to the south, till he had met with a westerly wind. But tlie certain consequence oi doing this without such a supply would have been the loss of all the cattle ; while, at the same time, not a single advantage would have been gained with regard to the grand ends of the voyage. He deter- mined, therefore, to bear away to the Friendly I:>lands, where he was sure of being abundantly provided. In pursuing his course at^reeably to this resolution, our commander, on the 14th, reached Palmerston Island, where, and at a neighbouring islet, both of which were uninhabited, some little relief was ob- tained. The boats soon procured a load of scurvy- ^rass, and young cocoa-nut trees, which was a feast tor the cattle ; and the same feast, with the addition of palm-cabbage, and the tender branches of the wnarra tree, was continued for several days. On the Idth, Omai, being on shore with the captain, caught with a scoop-net, in a very short time, as much lish as served the whole party for dinner, besides sending a Quantity to both the sliips. Birds too, and parti- cularly men of war and tropic birds, were plentifully obtahied, so that our navigators had sumptuous en- tertainment. Omai acted as cook upon this occasion. The fish and the birds he dressed with heated stones, after the manner of his country, and performed the operation with a dexterity and good numour which were greatly to his credit. From the islet before mentioned, twelve hundred cocoa-nuts were procured, which being equally divided among the crew, were M' great use to them, both on account of the juice and the kernel. There is no water in the islets, which are comprehended under the name of Palmerston Island. If that article could be obtained;, and good anchorage could be accomplished within the reef. Captain Cook would prefer this island to any of the uninhabited ones, for the mere propose of refresh- tuent. The quantity of fish tliat might be caught. TUIRD yOYAMB. 876 would be sufficient, and a ship's company could roam about unmolested by the petulance of the inhabitants. Different opinions have been entertained concern* ing the formation of the low islands in the great ocean. From the observations which our commander now made, he was convinced that such islands are formed Trom shoals or coral banks, and consequently that they are always increasing. After leaving Palmerston Island, Captain Cook steered to the west, with a view of mukmg the best of his way to Anamocka. During his course, the showers were so copious that our navigators saved a considerable quantity of water. Finding that a greater supply could be obtained by the rain in one hour, than could be got by distillation in one month, the captain laid aside the still us a thing which was attended with more trouble than profit. At this time the united heat and moisture of the weather, in addition to the impossibility of keeping the ships dry, threatened to be noxious to the health of our people. It was, however, remarkable that neither the constant use of salt food nor the vicissitudes of climate, were productive of any evil effects. Tiiough the only ma- terial refreshment our voyagers had received since tlieir leaving the Cape of Uood Hope was that which tltey had procured at New Zealand, there was not, us yet, a single sick person on board. This happy situation of things was undoubtedly owing to the unremitting attention of our commander in seeing that no circumstance was neglected, which could contribute to the preservation of the health of his company. On the 28th of April, Capt. Cook touched at the Island of Komango ; and, on the 1st of May, he ar- rived ut Anamocka. The station he took was the «aine wiiich he had occupied when he visited the Country three years before; and it was probably almost in the same place where Tasman, the first 276 CAPTAIN COOK'S discoverer of this and some of the neighbouring islands, anchored in 1643. A friendly intercourse was immediately opened with the natives, and every thing was settled to the captain's satisfaction. He received the greatest civilities from Toobou, the chief of Anamocka; and Taipa, a chief from the Island of Komanffo, attached himself to the English in so extraordinary a manner, that, in order to be near them in the night, as well as in the day, he had a house brought on men's shoulders a full quarter of a mile, and placed close to the shed, which was occu- pied by our party on shore. On the 6th, our com- mander was visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose name was Feenou, and who was falsely repre- sented by Taipa to be the king of the Friendly Isles. The only interruption to the harMony which subsisted between our people and the natives of Anamocka, arose from the thievish disposition of many of the inhabitants. They afforded frequent opportunities of remarking how expert they were in the business of stealing. Even some of the chiefs did not think the profession unbecoming their dignity. One of them was detected in carrying a bolt out of the ship, con- cealed under his clothes ; for which Captain Cook sentenced him to receive a dozen lashes, and kept him confined till he had paid a hog for his liberty. After this act of justice, our navigators were no longer troubled with thieves of rank : but their ser- vantS| or slaves, were still employed in their dirty work, and upon them a flogging seemed to make no greater impression than it would have done upon the main-mast. When any of them happened to be caught in the act, so far were their masters from in- terceding in their favour, that they often advised our gentlemen to kill them. This, however, being a punisliment too severe to be inflicted, they generally escaped without being punished at all ; for of the shame as well as of the pain of corporeal chastise- went, they appeared to be equally msensible. At THIRD VOYAOB* 877 leng:th Captain Gierke invented a mode of treatment wiiich was thouglit to be productive of some good tifiect. He put the thieves into the hands of the barber, and completely shaved their heads. In con- sequence of rliis operation, they became objects of ridicule to their own countrymen ; and our people, by keeping them at a distance, were enabled to de- prive them of future opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries. The island of Anamocka being exhausted of its articles of food, Captain Cook proposed, on the 11th, to proceed dlrectlv tor Tongataboo. From this reso- lution, however, he was diverted at the instance of Feenou, who warmly recommended in preference to it, an island, or rather a group of islands, called Hapaee, lying to the north-east. There, he assured our voyagers, that they could be plentifully supplii d with every refreshment in the easiest manner ; and he enforced his advice by engaging to attend them thither in person. Accordingly Hapaee was made choice of for the next station ; and the examination of it became an object with the captain, as it had never been visited by any European ships. On the 17th our commander arrived at Hapaee, where he met with a most friendly reception from the inhabitants, and from Earoupa, the chief of the island. During the whole stay of our fiavigators, the time was spent in a reciprocation of presents, civilities, and solenmities. On the part oi the na- tives were displayed single combats with clubs, wrestling and boxmg matches, female combatants, dances performed by men, and night entertainments of singing and dancing. The English, on the other Imnd, gave pleasure to the Indians by exercising tlie marines, and excited their astonishment by the exhi- bition of fire-works. After curiosity had on botli sides been sufficiently gratified, Captain Cook applied liiinself to the examination of Hapaee, Lefooga, and otlier neighbouring islands. As the ships were ii! •i78 OAPTAiy cook's retnming, on the Slst, from these islands to Ana>' ' mocka, the Resolution was very near running fou).' upon a low sandy iaiand, called Pootoo Pootooa^^- surrounded with hreakem. It fortunately happened that the men had just been ordered upon deck to put the vessel about, and were most of them at their stations: so that the necessary movements were executed not only with judgment, but also with alertness. This alone saved the ship and her cora^: pany from destruction. ''Such hazardous situa- tions/' says the captain, '' are the unavoidable companions of a man who goes upon a voyage of discovery." During our commander's expedition to Hapaee, he was introduced to Pouluho, the real king of the Friendly Isles, in whose presence it instantly ap- peared how groundless had been Feenou's pretensions to that character. Feenou, however, was a chief of great note and influence. By Poulaho, Captain look was invited to pass over to Tongataboo, which\ request he complied with after he had touched for' t^wo or three days at Anamocka. In the passage the Resolution was insensibly drawn upon a large flat, on which lay innumerable coral rocks of difierent depths below the surface of the water. Notwith- standing all the care and attention of our people to keep her clear of them, they could not prevent her from striking on one of these rocks. The sai^^e event happiened to the Discovery ; but fortunately neither of the ships stuck fast, nor received any damage. ^ On the 10th of June Captain Cook arrived at Ton- gataboo, where the king was waiting for him upon the beach, and immediately conducted him to a small but neat house, whicli he was told was at his service d urintf his stay in the island. The house was situated a little within the skirts of the woods, and had a fine large area before it, so that a more agreeable 4pot could not hav»^ been provided. Our commander's wrrival at Tongataboo was followed by a succession THIRii ^OVAOK. 279 of entertainments similar to those which had occurred at Hapaee, though somewhat diversified in circnm- stances, and exhibited with additional splendour. The pleasure, however, of the visit was occasionally idterrupted by the thieveries of many of the faiha- bltants. Nothing could prevent their plundering our voyagers in every quarter, and they did so in the most daring and insolent manner. There was scarcely any thing which they did not attempt to steal ; and yet, as the crowd was always great, the captain would not permit the sentinels to fire, lest the mno- cent should suffer with the guilty. ' Captain Cook, on the 19th, made a distribution of the aniiuuls which he had selected as presents for the principal men of the island. To Poulaho, the king, he gave a young English bull and cow, together with three goats ^ to Mareewagee, a chief of conse- quence, a Cape ram and two ewes ; and to Peenou, a horse and a mare. He likewise left in the islufifl a young boar and three young sows, of the Rnglisli breed ; and two rabbits, a buck and a doe. Omai, at the same time, was instructed to represent the import- ance of these animals, and to explain, as far as he was capable, the manner in which they should be preserved and treated. Even the generosity of the captain was not without its inconveniences. It soon appeared that some were dissatisfied with the allot- ment of the animals, for next morning two kids and rwo turkey-cocks were missing. As our commander could not suppose that this was an accidental loss, he determined to have them again. The first step he took was to seize on three canoes that happened to be aloncfside the ships; after which he went on shore, and having found tin king, his brother Fecnou, and some other chiefs, he immediately put a guard over tliem, and cave them to understand that tiicy must remain under restraint, till not only the kids and the turkeys, but the rest of the things whicti ut ditfereat times had been stolen from our voyagers, iM CAPTAIN COOKS Should be restored. This bold step of Captain Ck)o1i was attended with a very good effect. Some oi the articles which had been lost were instantly brought back, and such good assurances were given with re« gard to the remainder, that in the afternoon the chiefs were released. It was a happy circumstance with respect to this transaction, that it did not abate . the future confidence of Poulaho and his friends in f the captain's kind and generous treatment. . q On the 5th of July there was an eclipse of the sunt i which, however, in conseauence of the unfavourable J weather, was very imperfectly observed. Happily 1^ the appointment was of little consequence, as the cl longitude was more than sutficiently determined by lunar observation. Captain Cook sailed from Tongataboo on the 10th, and two days after he came to anchor at the island of Middleburg, or Eooa, as it is called by the iahabi- tants. Here he was immediately visited by Taoofa, the chief, with whom he hud formerly been acquainted. f« The intercourse now renewed was friendly in the highest degree, both with Taoofa and the rest of the natives; and our commander endeavoured to melio- ■« rate their condition by planting a pine-apple, and im^ sowing the Seeds of melons and other vegetables in 4>i the chief's plantation. To this he was encouraged ^ by a proof that his past endeavours had not been wholly unsuccessful. He had one day served up to him at his diiuier a dish of turnips, being the produce of the seeds which he had left at Eooa in his last voyage. The stay which Captain Cook made at the Friendly Islands' was between two and three months, during which thne^ some accidental differences excepted, > i there subsisted the utmost cordiality between the £n(rlish and the natives. Jiurinff the present visit to the Friendly Islands, large additions were made to the knowledge wliich wa« obtained in the lust" voyage, of the natural \m- ... THIRD YOITAGB. 2«1 torv and productions of the country, and the manners and customs of its inhabitants. With respect to the religion of these Indians, Mr. Anderson maintains that they have very proper sen- timents concerning the immateriality and immorta- lity of the soul, and thinks himself sufficiently au- thorized to assert that they do not worship any thing which is the work of their own hands, or any visible ?art of the creation. The language of the Friendly slands has the greatest imaginable conformity to that of the New Zealand, of Wateoo, and Mangeea. Several hundreds of the words of it were collected by Mr. Anderson, and amongst these are terms that express numbers reaching to an hundred thousand. Beyond this limit they never went, and probably were not able to go further ; for it was observed that when they had got thus far they commonly used a \> ord which expresses an indefinite number. On the 17th of July, our commander took his final leave of the Friendly Islands, and resumed his voy- age. An eclipse was observed in the night between tlie 20th and the 21st, and on the 8th of August land was discovered. Some of the inhabitants who came off in canoes, seemed earnestly to hivite our people to go on shore ; but Capt. Cook did not think proper to run the risk of losing the advantage of a fair wind, for the sake of examining an island which appeared to be of little consequence. Its name, as was learned from the natives, who spoke the Otaheite language, *s Toobourai. Pursuing his course, the captain reached Otaheite on the 12th, and steered for Ohetepeha Bay, with an intention to anchor there, in order to draw what re- freshments he could from the south-east part of the island, before he went down to Matavia. Omai^s first reception amongst his countrymen was not en- tirely of a flattering nature. Though several persons came on board who knew him, and one of them was ills brother-in-law, there was nothing remarkably 282 CAPTAIN COOK'S tender or striking in the!r meeting. An interview « which Omai liad, on the 13th, \vith his sister, was agreeable to the feelings of nature : for their meeting ^ was marlced with expressions of tender affection, more easy to be conceived than described. In a visit, lilcewise, which he received from an aunt, the \ old lady threw herself at his feet and plentifully > bedewed them with tears of joy. n h. , Captain Cook was informed by the natives that, ~ since he was last at the island in 1774, two ships had , been twice in Ohetrpeha Bay, and had left animals in the country. These, on further inquiry, were found to be ho^s, dop, coats, one bull, and a ram. That the vessels which had visited Otaheite were Spanish, was plain from an inscription that was upon a wooden cross, standing at some distance from the front of a house which had been occupied by the Btrangers> On the transverse part of the cross was inscribed, it ^^i-^ Christtis vinciL ^ , \Jc4o oJ And on the perpendicular part, jw^ii) Carolus III, Imperat 1 774. ^ . < ; * Our commander took this occasion to preserve the memory of the prior visits of the English, by in* scribing on the other side of the post, Oeorgius Tertius Bex, Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1774, 1777. Whatever might be the intention of the Spaniards in their visit to the island, it ought to be remembered to their honour, that they behaved so well to the inhabitants, as always to be spoken of in the strong- est expressions of esteem and veneration. Captain Cook had at this time an important affair to settle. As he knew that he could now be furnished with a plentiful supply of cocoa-nuts, the liquor of which IS an excellent and wholesome beverage, he was desirous of prevailing upon his people to consent to their being abridged, during their stay at Otaheite and the neighbouring islands, of their stated ullow^ TIIIRD VOTAOB. 289 Ance of spirits to mix with water. But as tlie stop* page of a favourite article, witliout assigning some reason for it, miglit create a general murmur, lie thouglit it the most prudent to assemble the snip's company, and to mal^e known to them the desi^ of the voyage, and the extent of the future operations. To animate them in undertaking with cheerfulness and perseverance what lay berore them, he took notice of the rewards offered by Parliament to such of his Majesty's subjects as should first discover a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, in any direction whatever, in the northern hemispliere ; and also to such as should first pene« trate beyond the 89th degree of northern latitude The captain made no doubt, he told them, tliat ha should find them willing to co-operate with him in attempting, so far as might be possible, to become entitled to one or both of these rewards ; but that, to give the best chance of success, it would be necessary to observe the utmost economy in the expenditure of the stores and provisions, particularly the latter, as there was no probability of getting a supply after leaving these islands. He strengthened his argu* ments by reminding them, that in consequence of the opportunity's having been lost in getting to the north this summer, the voyage must last at least a year longer than had orisinally been supposed. He entreated them to consider the various obstructions and difiiculties they might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships they would endure, if it should be found necessary to put them on short allowance of any species of provisions in a cold climate. For these very substantial reasons, he submitted to them whether it would not be better to be prudent in time, and, rather than to incur the hazard of having no spirits left, when such a cordial would be most wanted, to consent to give up their grog now, when so excellent a liquor as that of cocoa-nuts could be substituted in its place. In conclusion, our com- I II M t 284 CAPTAIN C06K*S maiHler left the determination of tlie matter entirely to their own clioice. Tliis speech, which certainly partook much of the nature of true eloquence, if a discourse admirably calculated for persuasion be entitled to that charac- ter, produced its full effect on the generous minds oi English seamen. Captain Cook had the satisiaction of finding that this proposal did not remain a single moment under consideration, beinp unanimously and immediately approved of, without the least objection. By our commander's order, Capt. Clerke made the same proposal to his people, to which they likewise agreed. Accordingly grog was no longer served excepting on Saturday nights, when the companies oi both ships had a full allowance of it, that thev miffht drhik the healths of their friends in England. On the 24th, Captain Cook quitted the south-east coast of Otaheite, and resumed his old station in Mutavia Bay. Immediately upon his arrival, be was visited by Otoo, the king of the whole island, and their former friendship was renewed — a friend- sliip which was continued without interruption, and cemented by a perpetual succession of civilities, eood oHices and entertainments. One of our commander's Hrst objects was to dispose of all the European ani- mals which were in the shipB. Accordingly he con- veyed to Oparre, Otoo*s place of residence, a peacock una hen, a tuiKey cook and hen, one gander and three geese, one drake and four ducks. The geese and ducks began to breed before our navigators left their present station. There were already, at Otoo's, several goats, and the Spanish bull, which was one of the finest animals of tne kind that was ever seen. To the bull Captain Cook sent the three cows he had on board, together with a bull of his own ; to all of which were added the horse and mare, and the sheep that had still remained in the vessels. Tlie captain found himself lightened of a very heavy buitienjUi havmg disposed of these passengers THIRD TOYAGB. 986 It Is not easy to conceive the trouble and vexation which had attended the conveyance of this living cargo, through such various hazards, and to so im- mense a distance. But, the satisfaction which our commander felt, in having been so fortunate as to fulfil his Majesty's humane design in sending sucli valuable animals to supplv the wants of two worthy nations, afforded an ample recompense for the many anxious hours he had passed, before this subordinate object of his voyage could be carried into execution. At this time a war was on the point of breaking out between the inhabitants of Eimeo and those of Otaheite, and by the latter Captain Cook was re- quested to take a part in their favour. With this request, however, though enforced by frequent and urgent solicitations, the captain, accordmg to his usual wisdom, refused to comply. He alleged that as he was not thoroughly acquainted with the dis. pute, and the people of Eimeo had never offended him, lie could not think himself at liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With these reasons, Otoo and most of the chiefs appeared to be satisfied ; but one of them, Towha, was so highly displeased, that our commander never afterwards recovered his friendship. Upon the present occasion. Captain Cook had full and undeniable proof that the ofierlng of human sacrifices forms a part of the religious institutions of Otaheite. Indeed he was a witness to a solem- nity of this kind, the process of which he has par- ticularly described, and has related it with just sentiments of indignation and abh&rrence. The unhappy victim, who was now offered to the object of worship, seemed to be a middle-aged man, and was said to be one of the lowest class of the people. But the captain could not learn, after all his in- quiries, whether the wretch Imd been fixed upon oti account of his having committed any crime which was deserving of deatli. it is certain that a choice 8H0 CAPTAIN cook's is generally made, either of Buch guilty persons for the sacrifices, or of common low tellows, who stroll about from place to place, without any visible method of obtaining an honest subsistence. Those who are devoted U> suffer, are never apprized of their fate till tlie blow is given that puts an end to their being. Whenever, upon particular emergency, one of the great cliiefs considers a human sacrifice to be neces- sary, he pitches upon the victim, and then orders him to be suddenly fallen upon and killed either with clubs or stones. Although it should be supposed that no more than one person is ever devoted to destruction on any single occasion at Otaheite, it will still be found that these occurrences are so frequet as to cause a shocking waste of the human race; for our commander counted no less than forty-nine skulls of former victims lying before tne Morai, where he had seen another added to the number. It was apparent from the freshness of these skulls that no great length of time had elapsed since the wretches to whom they belonged had been offered up on the alta^ of blood. There is reason to fear that this custom is as exten- di ve as it is horrid. It is highly probable that it prevails throughout the widely diffused islands of the Pacific Ocean, and Captain Cook had particular evidence of its existing at the Friendly Islands. To what an extent the practice of human sacrifices was carried in the ancient world, is not unknown to tlie learned. Scarcely any nation was free from it in a certain state of society ; and as religious reforma- tion is one of the last efforts of the human mind, ilie practice may be continued, even when the manners are otherwise far removed from savage lite. It may have been a long time before civi- lization has made such progress as to deprive superstition of its cruelty, and to divert jt from bar- barous rites to ceremonies which, though foolish ciioui£h« are comparatively mild, gentle, and innocent. THIRD VOYAGB. 287 On the 5th of September an accident happenrd. which, though slight in itself, was of some conse- quence from the situation of tilings. A youns ram of the Cape breed, which had been lambed and brought up with great care on board the ship, was killed by a dog. Desirous as Captain Cook was of propagating so useful a race among the Society Islands, the loss of a ram was a serious misfortune. It was the only one he had of that breed, and of the English breed a single ram was all timt remained Captain Cook, who had now come to the resolution of departing soon from Otaheite, accompanied on the 27th, Otoo to Oparre, and examined the cattle and poultry which he had consigned to his friend's care at that place. Every thing was in a promising way, and properly attended. During this visit of our voyagers to Otaheite, such a cordial friendship and confidence subsisted between them and tlie natives, as never once to be interrupted by an untoward accident. Our commander hud made the cliiefs fully sensible that it was their interest to treat with him on fair and equitable terms, and to keep their people from plundering or stealing. From Otalieite our voyagers sailed, on the 3Ucii, to Eimeo, where they came to anchor on tlie same day. At this island, the transactions which happened were for the most part, very unpleasant. A goat which was stolen was recovered without any extraordinary difficulty, and one of the thieves was at tlie same time surrendered, being the first instance of the kind tliat our commander hud met with in his connexion with the Society Islands. The stealing of another goat was attended with an uncommon degree of per- plexity and trouble. As the recovery of it was a matter of no small importance. Captain Cook was determined to eiiect this at any rate ; and accordingly he made an expedition across the island, in which he set tire to six or eight houses, and burned a numbei •1' wax canoes. At last, in consequence of a preremp- ; t ! i ! i I I m < I i 288 CAPTAIN COOK S tory message to Maheine, the chief of Eimeo, that not a single canoe should be left in the coantrv, or an end be put to the contest, unless the animal in his Cossession should be restored, the goat was broug:ht ack. This quarrel was as much regretted on the part of the captain, as it could be on that of the na- tives. It grieved him to reflect, that after refusing the pressing solicitations of his friends at Otaheite to favour their invasion of this island, he should find himself so speedily reduced to the necessity of en* gaging in hostilities against its inhabitants — and in such hostilities as perhaps had been more injurious to tiiem than Towha's expedition. On the 11th of October, the. ships departed from Eimeo, and the next day arrived at Owharre harbour, on the west side of Huaheine. The grand business of our commander at the island was the settlement of Omai. In order to obtain the consent of the chiefs of the island, the affair was conducted with great solemnity. Omai dressed himself very properly on the occasion, brought with him a suitable assortment of presents, went through a variety of reli|iioiis cere- monies, and made a speech, the topics of which had been dictated to him by our commander. The result of the negotiation was that a spot of ground was assigned him, the extent of which, along the shore of the harbour, was about two hundred yards ; and its depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat more. A proportionable part of the hill was included in the grant. The business having been adjusted in a satis- factory manner, the carpenters of both ships were employed in building a small house for Omai, in which he might secure his European commodities. At the same time, some of the English made a garden for his use, in which they planted shaddocks, vines, pine-apples, melons, and the seeds of several other vegetable articles. All these Captain Cook had the satisfaction of seeing in a flourishing state before he left the island. ^- ^ :,, TUlllD VOYAGB. 289 Before our commander sailed from Huaheine, he had the following inscription cut on the outside of Omai's house :— Georgius Tertius Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777. ,., • Naves. * ..,,^ , Resolution, J as. Cook, Pr. 2>wcoi;erw, Car. Gierke, Pr. On the same day, Omai took his final leave of our navigators, in doing which he bade farewell to all the officers in a very aft'ectionate manner. He sus- tained himself with manly resolution till he came to Captain Cook, when his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed, and he continued to weep all the time that the boat was conveying him to shore. Not again to resume the subject, I shall here mention, that when the captain was at Ulietea, a fortnight after this event, Omai sent two men with tlie satis- factory intelligence tliat he remained undisturbed by the people of Huaheiiie, and that every thing suc- ceeded well with him, excepting the loss of his goat, which had died in kidding. This intelligence was accompanied with a request that another goat might be given him, together with two axes. Our com> mauder, esteeming himself happy in having an addi- tional opportunity of serving him, dispatched the messengers back with tlie axes, and a couple of kids, mule and female, which were spared for him out of the Discovery. The fate of the two youths who had been brought from New Zealand must not be forgotten. As tliey were extremely desirous of contin'.nng with our peo- ple, Capt. Cook would have carried them to England with him if there had appeared the most distant pro- bability of their ever bt-ing restored to their own country. Tiarooa, the eldest of them, was a very well disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and a capacity of receiving any instrurtinn. lie seemed to be fully convinced of the iuteriority of New Zealand to these islands, and resigned hiniselt 20 9 w 200 CAPTAIN cook's ! ! 1 i i! i :ip i I though not without some degree of reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty at Huaheine. The other had formed so strong an attachment to our navigators, that it was necessary to take him out of the ship, and carry him ashore by force. This ne« ccssity was the more painful, as lie was a witty smart boy. and on that account a great favourite on board. Botn these youths became a part of Omai's family. Whilst our voyagers were at Huaheine, the atro- cious conduct oi one particular thief oect^ioned so much trouble, that the captain punished him more severely than he had ever done any culprit before. Besides having his head and beard shaved, he ordered both his ears to be cut of!', and then dismissed him. 1 1 can scarcely be reflected upon without regret, that our commander should have been compelled to such an act of severity. On the 3d of November, the ships came to an anchor in the harbour of Ohamaneno in the island of Ulietea. The observatories being set up on the 6th, Hiid the necessary instruments having been carried on shore, the two following days were employed in making astronomical observations. In the nig4it between the 12th and 13th, John Harrison, a maruie, who was sentinel at the observatory, deserted, taking with him his arms and accoutrements. Capt. Cook exerted himself on this occasion with his usual vigour. He went himself in pursuit of the deserter, who, after some evasion on the part of the inhabitants, was surrendered. He was found sitting between two women, with the musket lying before him ; and all the defence he was able to make was, that he had been enticed away by the natives. As this account was probably the truth, and as it appeared besides that he had remained upon his post till within ten minutes of the time when he was to have been re- lieved, the punishment which the captain inflicted upon him was not very severe Borne days ufier. a still more troublesome affair of THIRD VOTAOa. 291 le affair oi tlie same nature happened. On the moniinnf of the 24th, Captain Cook was intbrmect that a midshipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were missing ; and it soon appeared that they had gone uway in a canoe on the preceding evening, and had now reached the other end of the island. As the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire of remaining at these islands, it wa^ evident that he and ills companion had gone off with that intention. Though Captain Clerke immediately set out in quest of them with two armed boats and a party of ma- rines, his expedition proved fruitless, the natives having amused him the whole day with false intelli> gence. Tlie next morning an account was brough^ that the deserters were at Otaha. As they wer< not the only persons in the ships who wished to spend their days at these favourable islands, it be- came necessary for the purpose of preventing any further desertion, to recover them at all events. Captain Cook, therefore, in order to convince the inhabitants that he was in earnest, resolved to go after the fugitives himself, to which measure he was determined from having observed, in repeated in- atunces, that the natives seldom offered to deceive him with false information. Agreeably to this resolution, the captain set out the next morning with two armed boats, being ac- companied by Oreo, the chief of Ulietea, and pro- ceeded immediately to Otaha. But when he had got to the place where the deserters were expected to be found, he was informed that they were gone over to Rolabola. Thither our commander did not think proper to follow them, having determined to pursue another measure, which he judged would more effec- tually answer his purpose. This measure was to put the chiefs son, daughter, and son-in-law, into con- finement, and to detain them till the fugitives should be restored. As to Oreo, he was informed that he was at liberty to leave the ship ivhenever he pleased: fi9i wm. OAFIAIN COOKS and to take such methods as he esteemed best calcu- lated to get our two men back ; that, if he succeeded , his friends should be released ; if not, that Captain Cook was resolved to carry them away with him. The captain added, that the chiefs own conduct, as well as that of many of his people, in assistino: the runaways to escape, and in enticing others to fbliow them, would justify any step that could be taken to put a stop to such proceedings. In consequence of this explanation of our commander's views and in- tentions, Oreo zealously exerted himself to recover the deserters; for wliich purpose he dispatched a canoe to Bolabola, with a message to Opoony, the sovereign of that island, acquainting him with what had happened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives, and send them back. The messenger, who was no less a person than the father of Poo toe, Oreo's son-in-law, came, before he set out, to Captain Cook, to receive his commands, which were, not to return without the runaways, and to inform Opoony, that if tliey had left fiolabola, he must dispatch canoes in pursuit of them, till they should be finally restored. Tiiese vigorous measures were at length successful. On the 28th, the deserters were brought back : and as soon as they were on board, the three prisoners were released. Our commander would not have acted so resolutely on the present occasion, had he not been peculiarly solicitous to save the son of a brother officer from being lost to his country. While this affair was in suspense, some of the na- tives, from their anxiety on accountof the confinement of the chiefs relations, had formed a design of a very serious nature, which was no less than to seize upon the persons of Captain Clerke and Captain Cook. With regard to Captain Clerke, they made no secret of speaking of their scheme the day after it wM4ift» covered. But their first and grand plan was to lay hold of Captain Cook. It was his custom to batlie every evening ui fresh water, in doing which he fre- ,;. ; ,M(»i'*'' THIRD V0YA(3E. 299 fluently went alone, and always without arms. As tne inhabitants expected him to tfo as usual, on the evening of the 26th, they liad determined at that time to make him a prisoner. But lie had thought it prudent, after confining Oreo's family, to avoid gutting himself in their power; and had cautioned aptain Gierke and the officers not to venture them- selves far from the ships. In the course of the after- noon, the chief asked Captain Cook, three several times, if he would not go to the bathing-place ; and when at last he found that the captain could not be prevailed upon, he went off with all his people. He was apprehensive, without doubt, that the design was discovered, though no suspicion of it was then entertained by our commander, who imagined that the natives were seized with some sudden fright, from which, as usual, they would quickly recover. On one occasion Captain Clerke and Mr. Qore were in particular danger. A party of the inhabitants, armed with clubs, advanced against them ; and their safety was principally owing to Captain Clerke walking with a pistol in his hand, which he once fired. The discovery of the conspiracy, especially so far as respected Captain Clerke and Mr. Oore, was made by a girl whom one of the officers had brought from Huaheine. On this account, those who were charged with the execution of the design, were so greatly offended with her, that they threatened to take away her life, as soon as our navigators should leave tiie island ', but proper methods were pursued for her security. It is a happy circumstance, that the affair was brought to light, since such a scheme could not have been carried into effect without being in its consequences productive of much distress and calamity to the natives. Whilst Captain Cook was at Ulietea, he was visited by his old friend Oree, who, in the former voyages was chief, or rather regent, of Huaheine. Notwith- standing his now being, in some degree, reduced to 294 CAPTAIN COOK'S the rank of a private person, he still preserved hb consequence, never appeared without a numerous body of attendants, and was always provided with such presents as ii:dicated his wealth, and were hifflily acceptable. The last of the Society Islands to which our com- mander sailed was Bolabola, where he arrived on the 8th of December. His chief view in passing; over to this island was to procure from its monarch Opoony, an anchor which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost BtOtaheite, and which had been conveyed to Bola- bola. It was not from a want of anchors that Capt. Cook was desirous of making the purchase, but to convert the iron of which it consisted into a fresh assortment of trading articles, these being now very much exhausted. The captain succeeded in his negotiation, and amply rewarded Opoony for giving up the anchor. Whilst our commander was at Bolabola, he received an account of those military expeditions of the people of this country which he had heard much of in each of his three voyages, and which had ended in the complete conquest of Ulietea and Otaha. The Boln* bola men, in consequence of these enterprises, were in the highest reputation for their valour, and indeed were deemed so invincible, as to be the objects of terror to all the neighbouring islands. It was an addition to their fame that their country was of su(;h small extent, being not more than ei^ht leagues in compass, and not half so large as Ulietea. Captain Cook continued to the last his zeal for furnishing the natives of the South Sea with useful animals. At Bolabola, where there was already a ram, which had originally been left by the Spaniards at Otaheite, he carried ashore a ewe that had been brought from the Cape of Good Hope ; and he re- joiced in the prospect of laying a foundation, by this present, for a breed of sheep m the island. lie lett also at Ulietea, under the care of Oroe, an English TUIRD VOYAHB. 21)5 boar and sow, and two goats. It may tlierefore be regarded as certain, that not only Oraheite, but all the neighbouring islands, will in a few years have their race of hogs considerably improved ; and it is probable that they will be stocked with all the valu- able animals \vhich have been transported thithe** by their European visitors. When this shall be accom- plished, no part of the world will equal these islands in the variety and abundance of the refreshments which they will be able to afford to navigators : nor iid the cai)tain know any place that excelled them, even in their present state. ,,^ Our commander was now going to take his final departure from Otaheite and tiie Society Islands. Frequently as they had been visited, it might have been imagined that their religious, political, and du« niestic rep^ulations, manners, and customs, must by this time be thoroughly understood. A great acces- sion of knowledge was undoubtedly gained in the present voyage; and yet it was confessed, both by Captain Cook and Mr. Anderson, that thc'ir accounts of things were still imperfect in various respects, and that they continued strangers to many or the most important institutions which prevail among the na* tives. There was one part of tne character of several of these people, on which the well-regulated mind of the captain would not permit him to enlarge. "Too much," says he, " seems to have been already known, and published in our former relations, about some of the mod3S of life that made Otaheite so agreeable an abode t) many on board our ships; and if I could now add any finishing strokes to a picture, the out- lines of which have been alreadv drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still have hesitated to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of licentious manners, which could only serve to disgust those for whose information I write." From Mr. Anders^m's account of the Otaheitans, it appears that theii religions system is extensive ■>",■ I 11 ■ I i i "if"'' i: -■ ■ £1 li4h ■i' if I ^j6 CAPTAIN COOK'S ill I and in various instances singular. Tliey do uoi e>eem to pay respect to one (lod as possessins pre* eminence, but hf^Meve in a plurality of divinities, all oi whom are supposed to be very powerful. In dif- ferent parts of the Island, and in the nelsrhbourinGC islands, the Inhabitants choose for the objects of their worship those deities who they think are roost likely to protect them, and to supply all their wants. If, however, they are disappointed in their expecta* tions, they deem it no impiety to change their divi- nity, by having recourse to another, whum they hope to fiiid more propitious and successful. In general, their notions concerning the deity are extravagantly absurd. With respect to the soul, they believe it, according to Mr. Anderson, to be both immaterial and immortal ; but he acknowledges that they are far from entertaining those sublime expectations of future happiness which the christian revelation af- Ibrds, and which even reason alone duly exercised, might teach us to expect. Although seventeen months had elapsed since Cautaiu Cook's departure from England, during which time he had not, upon the whole, been unpm* titably employed, he was sensible that, with respect to the principal object of his instructions, it was now only tne commencement of his voyage ; and that, therefore, his attention was to be called anew to every circumstance which might contribute towards the safety of his people, and the ultimate success of the expedition. Accordingly he had examined into the state of the provisions whilst he was at the Soci- ety Islands; ana as soon as he had left them, and had got beyond the extent of his former discoveries, he ordered a survey to be taken of all the boatswain's and carpenter's stores which were in the ships, that he might be fully informed of their quantity and condition, and by that means know how to use them to the greatest advantage. It was on the 8th of December the very day on THIRD VOYAGE. 207 which be had touched there, that our commands r sailed from Bolabola. In the night between the 22d and 23d he crossed the Line, in the long:itude of 20<3 deg. 15 min. eust ; and on the 24th land was disco- vered, which was found to be one of those low unin- habited Islands that are so frequent in this ocean. Here our voyagers were successful in catching a large quantity ot turtle, which supplied them with an agreeable refreshment; and here, on the 28th, an eclipse of the sun was observed by Mr. Bayley, Mr. King, and Captain Cook. On account of the season of the year, the captain called the land where he now was, and which he judged to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference, Christmas Island. By his order, several cocoa-nuts and yams were planted, and some melon-seeds sown in proper places ; and a bottle was left, containing this inscription : — Georgius Tertius Rex, 31 Decembris, 1777. NaveSy Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. Discovery y Car. Gierke, Pr. On the 2d of January, 1778, tlie ships resumed their course to the northward ; and tliough several evidences occurred of tiie vicinity of land, none was discovered till the 18t,h, when an island made its appearance, bearing north-east by east. Soon aftt^r more land was seen, lying towards the north, ai d entirely detached from tiie former. The succeeding day was distinguished by the discovery of a third island in tlie direction of west-north-west, and as far distant as the eye could reach. In steering towards the second island, our voyagers had some doubt whetlier the land before them was inhabited ; but this matter was speedily cleared up by the putting off of some canoes from the shore, containing from three to six men each. Upon their approach, the Gngligh were agreeably surprised to find that they 3poke the language of Otaheite, and of the other countries which had lately been visited. These peo- I f-i 208 CAPTAIN COOK'S ! i\ * n pie were at first fearful of going on board ; but when< on the 20th, some of them took courage, and ventured to do it, they expressed an astonishment, on entering the ship, which Captain Cook had never experienced in the natives of any place during the course of his several voyages. Tlieir eyes continually flew from object to object, and by the wildness of their looks and gestures tliey fully manifested their entire igno« ranee with relation to every thing they saw, and strongly marked to our navi^^ators that till this time they had never been visited by Europeans, or been acquainted with any of our commodities, excepting iron. Even with respect to iron, it was evident that they had only heard of it, or at most had known it in some small quantity brought to them at a distant period ; for all they understood concerning it was, that it was a substance much better adapted to the purposes of cutting, or the boring of holes, than any thing their own country produced. Their ceremonies on entering the ship, their gestures and motions, and their manner of singing, were similar to those which our voyagers hud been accustomed to see in the places lately visited. There was likewise a further circumstance in which these people perfectly resem- bled the other islanders, and that was in their endea- vouring to steal whatever came within their reach ; or rather to take it openly, as what would either not be resented, or not hindered. The English soon convinced them of their mistake, by keeping such a watchful eye over them, that they afterwards were obliged to be less active in appropriating; to them- selves every object that struck their fancy, and excited their desire of possession. One order given by Captain Cook at this island v^aS) that none of the boat's crew should be permitted to go on shore — the reason of which was, that he might do every thing in his power to prevent the importation of a fatal disease, which unhappily had already been communicated in other nlaces. With THIRD VOYAOB. 390 the same view, he directed that all feir.alu visitors Bhould be excluded from the ships. Another neces- sary precaution taken by the captain was a strict injunction that no person Icnown to be capable of propagating disorder should be sent upon duty out o? the vessels. Thus zealous was the humanity of our commander to prevent an irreparable injury from being done to the natives. There are men who glory in their shame, and do not care how much evil they communicate. Of this there was an instance at Tongataboo in the gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed on shore to manage the trade for that ship, and who, though he was well acquainted with his own situation, continued to have connexion with different women. His companions expostulated with him without effect, till Captain Gierke, hearing of the dangerous irregularity of his conduct, ordered him on board. If I knew the rascal's name, I would hand it up, as far as lies in my power, to everlasting infamy. Mr. Williamsom being sent with the boats, to search for water, and attempting to land, the hiha- bitants came down in such numbers, and were so violent in their endeavours to seize upon the oars, muskets, and in short every thing they could lay hold of, that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. This unhappy circumstance was not known to Captain Cook till after he had left the island, so that all his measures were directed as if uothing of that kind had happened. When the ships were brought to an anchor, our commander went on shore : and, at the very instant of his doing so, the collected body of the natives all fell flat upon their faces, and continued in that hum< ble posture, till by expressive signs, he prevailed npon them to rise. Other ceremonies followed ; and the next day a trade was set on foot, for hogs and potatoes, which the people of this island gave in ex- change for nails and pieces of iron, formed into soiae« 300 CAPTAIN COOK'b li / thing like chisels. So far was any obstruction from being met with in watering, that, on the contrary, the inhabitants assisted our men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed what- ever was required. On the ^d, a circumstance occurred which gave the English room to suspect that the people of the island are eaters of human flesh. Not, however, to rest the belief of the existence of so horrid a practice on the foundation of suspicion only, Captain Cook was anxious to inquire into the truth of the fact, the result of which was its being fully confirmed. An old man, in particular, who was asked upon the sub- ject, answered in the affirmative, ana seemed to laugh at the simplicity of such a question. His an- swer was equally affirmative on a repetition of the Inquiry ; and he added, that the fiesn of men was excellent food, or, as he expressed it, '' savoury eat- ing." It is understood that enemies slain in battle, are the sole objects of this abominable custom. The island, at which our voyagers had now touched, was called Atooi by the natives. Near it was another island named Oneehow, where our commander came to an anchor on the 29th of the month. The inha- bitants were found to resemble those of Atooi in their dispositions, manners, and customs ; and proofs, too convincing, appeared that the horrid banquet of hu- man flesh is here as much relished, amidst plenty, as it is in New Zealand. From a desire of benefiting these people by furnishing them with additional articles of ibod, th(^ captain left them a ram-ffoatand two ewes, a boar and a sow pig of the English breed, and the seeds of melons, pumpkins, and onions. These benevolent presents would have been made to Atooi, the larger island, had not our navigators been unexpectedly driven from it by stress of weather. Though the soil of Oneehow seemed in general poor, it was observable that the ground was covered with shrubs and plants, some of which perfumed the uir THIRD VOYaOE. aoi with a more delicious frag^ancy tlian anv that Capt. Cook had met with in any other of the countrien which had been visited by him in this part of tlie world. It is a curious circumstance with reg^ard to the islands in the Pacific Ocean which the late £uroifean voyages have added to the geography of the globe, that tii^'y have generally been found to lie in group.<4 or clusters. The single intermediate islunds whicli have as yet been discovered, are few in proportion to the others, though there are probably many more of them that are still unknown, and may serve as steps by which the several clusters are in some decree connected together. Of the Archipelago now first visited, there were five only with wiiich our com- mander became at this time acquainted. The names of these, as given by the natives, were Woalioo, Atooi, Oneehow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. To the whole group Captain Cook gave the appellation of Sandwich Islands, in honour of his great friend and patron, the Earl of Sandwich. Concerning the island of Atooi, which is the largest of the five, and which was the principal scene of the captain's operations, he collected, in conjunction with Mr. Anderson, a considerable degree ot information. The land, as to its general appearance, does not in ttie least resemble any of the islands that our voy* agers had hitherto visited within the tropic on the south side of the equator, excepting so far as regards its hills near the centre, which slope gently towards the sea. Hogs, dogs, and fowls, were the only tame or domestic animals that were here found ; and these were of the same kind with those that exist in the countries of the South Pacific Oc3an. Among the inhabitants (who are of a middle stature, and firmly made) there is a more remarkable equality in the size, colour, and figure of both sexes, than our com- mander had ob3(^rved in most other places. They appeared to be blessed with a frank and cheerful di*- din Captain cook'k» 1 m! !« ! IF illli it II ! position : and, in Captain Cook's opinion, they are equally tree from the tickle levity which distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the sedate caste dis- cernible amongst many of those at Tongataboo. It is a very pleasing circumstance in their character, that they pay particular attention to their women, and readily lend assistance to their wives in the ten der offices of maternal duty. On all occasions they seemed to be deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority, being alike strangers to the preposterous pride of the more polished Japanese, ancf of the ruder Greenlander. Contrary to the general practice of the countries that had hitherto been discovered in the Pacific Ocean, the people oi the Sandwich Islands have not their ears perforated, nor have they the least idea of wearing ornaments in tiiem, though, in other respects, they are sufficiently fond of adorning their persons. In every thing luanufactured by them there is an uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity ; and the elegant form and polish of some oi their nshing-hooks could not be exceeded by any European artist, even if he should add all his knowledge in design to the number and convenience of his tools. From what was seen of their agriculture, sufficient proofs were afforded that tiiey are not novices in that art : and that the quan- t ity and goodness of their vegetable productions may be attributed as much to skilful culture as to natural fertility of soil. Amidst all the resemblances between the natives of Atool and those of Otaheite, the coin- cidences of their lanp:uage3 was the most striking, being almost word tor word the same. Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered by the Spaniards at an early period, they would undoubtedly have taken advantage of so excellent a situation, and made use of them as refreshing places for their ships, which sail annually from Acapulca for Munill a. ^ too, would it have been for Lord Anson, if ho had known that iherQ existed a gronp THIRD VOYAGB. 908 of islands, half way between America and Tlnian, where all his wants could have been effectually sup- plied, and the different hardships to which he was exposed, have been avoided. On the 2d of February our navigators pursued their course to the northward, in doing which the incidents thev met with were almost entirely of a nautical kind. The long>looked-for coast of New Albion was seen on the 7th of March, the ships being then in the latitude of 44 deg. 33 min. north, and in the longitude of 235 deg. 20 rain. east. As the ves- sels ranged along the west side of America, Captain Cook gave names to several capes and head-lands which appeared in sight. At length, on the 29th, the captain came to an anchor at an inlet w^xere the appearance of the country differed much from what had been seen before, being full of mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow ; while the valleys between them, and the grounds on the sea- coast, high as well as low, were covered to a consi' derable breadth, with high straight trees, which for- med a beautiful prospect, as of one vast forest. It was immediately found that the coast was inhabited, and there soon came off to the Resolution three ca- noes containing eighteen of the natives, who could not, however, be prevailed upon to venture on board. Notwithstanding 'this, they displayed a peaceable disposition, showed great readiness to part with any thing in exchange for what was offered them, and. expressed a stronger desire for iron than for any other of our commercial articles, appearing to be perfectly ac(|uainte of workmanship. But of all the articles bir )^\ io market, the most extraordinary were human skulls, and hands not yet quite stripped of their flesh, some of which had evfident mariss of their having been upon the fire. The things whicli the natives took in ex- change for their coinmoiities were knives, chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or any kind of metals. Glass beads did not strike their imagination, and cloth of every sort they re- jected. Though commerce in general was carried on with mutual honesty, yet there were some among these people who were as much inclined to thieving as the islanders in the Southern Ocean. They were at the same time, far more dangerous thieves ; for, possessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut l hook from a tackle, or any otiier piece of iron, from a rope, the moment that the backs of the English were turned. The dexterity witli which they conducted their operations of this nature, frequently eluded tlie most cautious vigilance. Some slighter instances of deception in the way of traffic Captain Cook thought it tit'tter to bear with than to make them tlie found - ut«oi\ of a quarrel ; and to this he was the ratlier detf ^ mined, as the English articles were now reduced ixi objects of a trifling nature. Id the rirogrcss of the^i THIRD VOYAOB. 305 commerce, the natives would deal for nothing hut metal ; and at length brass was so eagerly soaght for in preference to iron, that before our naviffators quitted the place, scarcely a bit of it was left m the ships, excepting what belonged to the necessary in- struments. Whole suits of clothes were stripped of every button ; bureaux were deprived of their furni- ture ; copper kettles, tin canisters, candlesticks, and whatever of the like kind could be found— all went to wreck ; so that these Americans became possessor of a greater medley and variety of thines from our people, than any other nation that had been visited in the course of the voyage. Of tdl the uncivilized tribes which our commander iiad met with in his several navigations, he never found any who had such strict notions of their having a right to the exclusive property of every thing which their country produced, as the inhabitants of the Sound where he was now stationed. At first they wanted to be paid for the wood and water that were carried on board ; and had the captain been upon tiie spot when these demands were made, he would cer- tainly have complied with them : but the workmen in his absence, maintained a different opinion, and refui i:d to submit to any such claims. When some raeSy which appeared to be of no use to the natives, f '!' .J wanted to be cut, as food for the few goats and !;!h( '^p which still remained on board, they insisted I dt it should be purchased, and were very unreason- labitt in their terms ; notwithstanding w hich, Captain |Gook consented to gratify them as far as he was able. It was always a sacred rule with him, never to take my of the property of the people whom he visited, without making them ample compensation. The grand operation of our navigators, in their ^resent station, was to put the ships into a complete repair, for the prosecution of the expedition. While ivhid busmess was carrying on, our commander took he opportunity of examining every part of the 20 X Mi J lli' I I i mil »^ CAPTAIN COOKS Sound, in the course of which he gained a further knowledge of the inhabitants, who in general re- ceived him with great civility. In one uistance be met with a surly chie^ who could not be softened with presents, though he condescended to accept of them* The females of the place over which he pre- sided showed a more agreeable disposition; for some of the young women expeditiously dressed them- selves in their best apparel, and, assembling in a h ■"'. welcomed the English to their village by joiui; ;n a sone which was far from being harsh oj| disagreeable. On another occasion, the captain was entertained wiUi singing. Being visited by a num- ber of strangers on the 22d of April, as they advanced towards the ships, they all stood up in their oauoes, and began to sin^. Some of their songs, in which the whole body jomed, were in a slow, and others in a quicker time; and their notes were accompanied with the most regular motions of their liands ; or with beating in concert with their paddles, on the sides of their canoes; to which were added other very expressive gestures. At the end of each song they continued silent for a few moments, and then began again, sometimes pronouncing the word Jlooee! rather forcibly as a chorus. Among the natives of the country there was one chief who attached himself to our commander in a particular mamier. Captain Cook bavins, at part- ing, bestowed upon him a small present, ne received in return a beaver tkin of much greater value. This called upon the captain to make some addition to his present^ Tfith which the chief was so much pleased, that he insisted upon our commander's acceptance : i\ the beaver skin cloak which he then wore, and oil which he was particularly fond. Admiring this instance of generosity, and desirous that he should not suffer by his friendship, the captain gave him 8 new broad sword with a brass hilt, the oossestion oij which rendered him completely happy« , , 'iJ V THIRD TOYAOB. 307 O Captain Ccok's first arrival in this inlet, he had honourea it with the name of King George's Sound ; but he afterwards found that it was called Nootka by the natives. During his stay in the place, he dis- played his usual sagacity and diligence in conjunction with Mr. Anderson, in collecting every thing that could be learned concerning the neighbouring country and its inhabitants ; and the account is interesting, as it exhibits a picture of productions, people, and manners, very different from what had occurred in the Southern Ocean. I can only, as on former occa- sions, slightly advert to a few of the more leading circumstances. The climate, so far as our navigators had experience of it, was found to be in an eminent degree milder than that on the east coast of America in the same parallel of latitude ; and it was remark- able that tlie thermometer, even in the night, never fell lower than 42 deg., while in the day it frequently rose to 60 degrees. With regard to trees, those of which the woods are chiefly composed are the Cana- dian pine, the white cypress, and the wild pine, with two or three different sorts of pine that are less com- mon. In the other vegetable productions there appeared but little variety ; but it is to be considered that at so early a season several might not yet have sprung up, and that many more might be concealed from our yo^^agers in consequence of the narrow sphere of their researches. Of the land animals, the most common were bears, deers, foxes, and wolves. The sea animals which were seen off the coast were whales, porpoises, and seals. Birds in general are not only rare as to the different species, but very scarce as to numbers : and the few which are to be met with are so shy, that in all probability they are r continually harassed by the natives, either to eat ihem as food, or get possession of their feathers, Lwhich are used as ornaments. Fish are more plen- rtifttl in quantity than birds, but were not found io [nny great variety ; and yet, from several circuin- 'If lis; [ !■■'• f' 908 tAPTAlN cook's stances, there was reason to belive iliat the variety is considerably increased at certain seasons. The only animals that were observed of the reptile kind were snakes and water-lizards, but the insect tribe seemed to be more numerous. With respect to the inhabitants of the country, their persons are generally under the common stature, but not slender in proportion, being usually pretty full or plump, though without being muscular. From their bringing to sale human skulls and bones, it may justly be hiferred that they treat their enemies with a degree of brutal cruelty : notwithstanding which^ it does not follow that they are to be reproacned with any charge of peculiar innumanity, for the circum- stance now mentioned only marks a general agree- n:ent of character with that of almost every tribe oi uncivilized men in every age, and in every part of the globe. Our navigators had no reason to complain oi tiie disposition of the natives, who appeared to be a docile, courteous, good-natured people — rather phleg> matic in the usud; caste of their tempers, but quick in resenting what they apprehend to be an i'^jury, and easily permitting their anger to subside. THeir other passions, and especially their curiosity, seemed to lie in some measure dormant, one cause of which may be found in the indolence that for the most part is prevalent amongst them. The chief employments of the men are those of fishing and of killin|f land or sea animals for the sustenance of their families, while the women are occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, or in other domestic offices. It must be mentioned to their honour tliat they were always properly clothed, and behaved with the utmost decorum, justly deserving all commenda- tion for a bashfuluess and modesty becomuig their sex ; and this was the more meritorious in them, as tiie male inhabitants discovered no sense of sliame. In their manufactures and mechanic arts, these peo> l>h liave arrived at a greater degree of extent and THIRD VOYAGE. 300 ingenuity both with reg^ard to the desigrn and the execution, than could have been expected from their natural disposition, and the little progress to which they have arrived in general civilization. Their dex- terity in particular with respect to works of wood must principally be ascribed to the assistance they receive from iron tools, which are in universal use amongst them, and in the application of which they are very dexterous. Whence they have derived their knowledge of iron was a matter of speculation with Captain Cook. The most probable opinion is, that this and other metals have been introduced by way of Hudson's Bay and Canada, and thus successively have been conveyed across the continent from tribe to tribe. Nor is it unreasonable to suppose that these metals may sometimes be brought m the same manner from the north-western parts of Mexico. The language of Nootka is by no means harsh or dis- agreeable, &r it abounds, upon the whole, rather with what may be called labial and dental than with gut- tural sounds. A large vocabulary of it was collected by Mr. Anderson. Whilst Captain Cook was at Nootka Sound, great attention was paid by him, as usual, to astronomical and nautical subjects. The observations which he had an opportunity of making, were indeed so nu- merous, as to form a verv considerable addition to geographical and philosophical science* On tne 26th, the repairs of the ships haying been completed, every thing was ready for the captain's departure. When, in the afternoon of that day, the vessels were upon the point of sailing, the mercury in the barometer fell unusually low ; and there was every other presage of an approaching storm, which might reasonably be expected to come from the southward. This circumstance induced our commander in some degree to hesitate, and especially as night was at hand, whether he should venture to sail, or wait till 'iie next morning. But his anxious impatience to Ml,; iii M Ml '■'"li;! 'If I ■ i III i^llll i , ii 1 !' f 810 CAPTAIN COOK'S proceed on the voyage, and tlie fear of losing the present opportunity of gettinj^ out of tlie sound, made a greater impression upon his mind, than any appre- liension of immed iate danger. He determined, there- fore, to put to sea at all events; and accordingly carried his design into execution that evening. He was not deceived in his expectation of a storm. Scarcely were the vessels out of the sound before the wind increased to a strong gale with squalls and rain, accompanied with so dark a sky, that the length of the ships could not be seen. Happiljr the wind took a direction that blew our navigators from the coast ; and though, on the 27th the tempest rose to a perfect hurricane, and the Resolution sprung a leak, no material damage ensued. In the prosecution of the voyage to the north, and back again to the Sandwich Islands, the facts that occurred were chiefly of a nautical kind. Minutely to record these is not the purpose of the present work, and indeed would extend it to an unreasonable iengtn. From this long and important navigation, I can only select some few incidents that may be accom- modated to the taste and expectation of the generality of readers. One thing it is not improper here to observe, which Is, that the captain in his passage along the coast of America, kept at a distance from that coast when- ever the wind blew strongly upon it, and sailed oil tV\ he could approach it again with safety. Hence several great gaps were left unexplored, and particu- larly between the latitudes of 50 and 55 (leg. The exact situation, for instance, of the supposed Straits of Anian was not ascertained. Every one who is acquainted with the character of our commander win be sensible, that if he had lived to return to the north in 1779, he would have endeavoured to explore those parts which had been left unexamined. The first place at which Captain Cook landed after :.'■ J- -1 i 4M1 310 CAPTAIN cook's ! il!i| Oil I H\\ ,:,.l|!l his voyage without inquiring any further Into the matter. >t: On the 21st, amongst some liills on the maiii land that towered above the clouds to a most amazing height, one was discovered to have a volcano, which continually threw up vast columns of black smoke It does not stand far from the coast, and it lies in the latitude of 54 deg. 48 min., and in the longitude of 105 deg. 45 min. This mountain was rendered remarkable by its figure which is a complete cone, and the volcano is at tl\e very summit. While, in the afternoon of the same day, during a calm of three hoard, the English ware fishing with great success for halibut, a small canoe, conducted by one man, came to them from an island in the neighbourhood. On approacliiiig the ship, he took off his cap and bowed, 8f* the natives had done who had visited the Discovery a day or two before. From the acquired politeness of these people, as well as from the note already mentioned, it was evident that the Russians must iiave a communication and traffic with them ; %nd of this a fresh proof occurred in the present risitor ; for he wore a pair of green cloth breeches, laid a jacket of black cloth or stuff, under the gut shirt or frock of his ovvn country. In the prosecution of the voyage, en the 26th, there was so thick a fog, that our navigators could not see a hundred yards before them ; notwithstand- ing which, ad the weather was moderate, the captain did not intermi;, his course. At length, however, being alarmed at the sound of breakers on one side of the ship, he irLmediately brought her to, and came to an anchor; and the Discovery, by his order, iid the same. A few hours after, the fog having in some degree cleared away, it appeared that both the vessels had escaped very immment danger. Provi- dence, in the dark^ had conducted them between rocks w^iich our commander would not have ventured to imss tiifough in a clear day, and had conveyed at Is of ' into the main land ' amazing DO, whlcii k smolce it lies in longitude rendered lete cone. While, in n of three t success one man, )our}iood. cap and sited tiie acquired the note Russians th them ; ! present breeclies, r the gut THIRD VOYAGIS. 317 them to an anchoring place as good as he could (ms- sibly have fixed upon, had the choice been entirely at his option. On the 27th our voyagers reached an island that is known by the name of Oonalashka, the inhabitants of which behaved with a degree of politeness uncom- mon to savage tribes. A young man, who had overset Ills canoe, being obliged by this accident to come on board of the ship, went down into Capt. Cook's cabin upon the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His own clothes being wet, the captain gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as mucn ease as any Englishman could have done. From the behaviour of this youth, and that of f/Ome of the rest of the natives, it was evident that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to several of their customs. There was somfj> thing, however, in the English ships that greatly excited their attention ; for such as could not come off in canoes assembled on the neig'.bouring hills to look at them. In one instance it was apparent that the inhabitants were so far from having made any progress of politeness, that they were still immersed m the most savage manners ; for as our commander was walking alonjp^ the shore on the 29th, he met a group of them, of both sexes, who were seated on the grass at a repast, consisting of raw fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish as persons in civilized life would experience from a turbot served up in the richest sauce. Soon after the vessels had come to an anchor at Oonalashka, a native of the island brought on board such another note as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to Captain Cook, but, as it was written in the Russian language, and could be of no use to the English, though it might be of consequence to others, the captain returned it to tlie bearer, and dismissed him with a few presents, for which he expressed hii thanks by maLing several low bows as he retired. It-', ;^;". Ml ■i;il4' M f-> ■'^ frill .1; tV. I fll :(< r.;i Iff J i li 818 GAPTAIM cook's On the 2d of July oqr voyagers put to sea from Oonalashka, and, pursuing; their course of navigation and discovery, came, on tlie 16th, within sight of a promontory, near which our commander ordered Lieutenant Williamson to land, that he might see what direction the coast tools beyond it, and what the country produced. Accordingly Mr. Williamson went on shore, and reported on his return, that hav- ing landed on the point, and climbed the highest hill, he found that the furthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. At the same time he took pos- session of the country in his Majesty's name, and left a bottle in which was enclosed a piece of paper containing an inscription of the names of the ships, together with the date of the discovery. To this promontory he gave the name of CapeNewenham* The land as far as Mr. Williamson could see, pro- duced neither tree nor shrub ; but the lower grounds were not destitute of grass, and of some other plants, very few of which were in flower. When our navigators, on the 3rd of August, had advanced to the latitude of 62 deg. 35 min., a great loss was sustained by them in the death of Mr. An- derson, the surgeon of the Resolution, who had been lingering under a consumption for more than twelve months. He was 9 young man of a cultivated under- standing and agreeable manners, and well skilled in his own profession ; besides which, he had acquired a considerable degree of knowledge in other branches of science. How useful an assistant he was to Capt. Cook, has often appeared in the present narrative. Had his life been spared, the public would undoubt- edly have received from him such communications on various parts of the natural history of the several places that had been visited, as would justly have entitled him to very high commendation. The proofs of his abilities that now remain will band down the name of Anderson, in conjunction with that of Cook, to posterity. Soon after he had breathed his lost THIRD VOYAGE. 319 BE from ngation ^ht of a ordered ight see id what Iiamson at hav- est hill, n sight ok pos- ne, and r paper e ships, To this enham. ;e, pro- grounds ' plants, ist, had a great lir. An- id been twelve i under- skilled cqnired ranches [) Capt. rrative. idoubt- icatlons several ly have 5 proofs wn the Cook, is lost land having been seen at a distance, which wa sup- poHed to be an island, our commander honoured it with the appellation or Anderson's Island. The next day he removed Mr. Law, the surgeon of the Disco- very, into the Resolution, and appointed Mr. Sam- well, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon of the Discovery. On the 9th, Capt. Cook came to an anchor under a point of land to which he gave the name of Cape Prince of Wales, and which is remarkable by being the most western extremity of America hitherto ex- plored. Tills extremity is distant from the eastern Cape of Siberia only thirteen leagues ; and thus our commander had the glory of ascertaining the vicinity of the two continents, which had only been conjec- tured from the reports of the neishbouring Asiatic inhabitants, and the imperfect ooservations of the Russian naviffators. Resuming his course on the 10th, Captain Cook anchored in a bay, the land of which was at first supposed to be part of the island of Alashka, which is laid down in Mr. Stsehlin's map. But, from the figure of the coast, from the situation o** the opposite shore of America, and from the longitua , *^he captain soon began to think that it was more probably the country of the Tschutski, on the eastern extremity of Asia, which had been explored by Behring in 1728. In the result it appeared that this was in fact the case. Our commander became fully satisfied, in the further progress of his voyage, that Mr. Stsehlin's map must be erroneous, and he had the honour of restoring the American continent to that space which the geographer now mentioned had occupied with his imaginary island of Alashka. From the Bay of St. Lawrence, belonging to the country of the Tschutski, our navigators steered on the 11th to the east, in or*er to get nearer to the coast of America. After that, proceeding to the north, thev reached, on the 17th, the latitude of 70 ok was I have it ent har- casioned (aid us a ;wo men Resolu- I having the land, I hardly pon the ed much a which ed lively was also 1, whose s waves, ers/ par- Cook. :, we w6re ere soon Joined by several canoes, in which appeared many of our old acquaintance, who seemed ! o have come to welcome us back. Among them wt:^ Cooaha, a priest : he had brought a small pig, and some cocoa- nuts in his hand, which, after havinff chanted a few sentences, he presented to Captain Clerke. He then left us, and hastened on board the Resolution, to per- form the same friendly ceremony before Capt. Cook. Having but light winds all that day, we could not gain the harbour. In the afternoon, a chief of the first rank, and nearly related to Kariopoo, paid us a visit on board the Jjiscovery. His name was Ka- meamea; he was dressed in a very rich feathered cloak, which he seemed to have brought for sale, but woula part with it for nothing except iron daggers. These, the chiefs, some time before our departure had preferred to every other article; for, having received a plentiful supply of hatchets and other tools, they began to collect a store of warlike instru- ments, kameamea procured nine daggers for his cloak ; and being pleased with his reception, he and his attendants slept on board that night. ."On the morning of the 11th of Ftbruary, the ships anchored again at Kerageegooah bay, and pre- ftaration was immediately made for landing the Reso- ution's fore-mast. We were visited but bv a tew Indians, because there were but few in the bay* On our departur<> ' ose belonging to other parts hud repaired to thei veral habitations, and were again to collect from various quarters, before we could expect to be surrounded bv such multitudes as we had once seen in that harbour. In the afternoon I walked about a mile into the country, to visit an Indian friend who had, a few days before, come near twenty miles in a small canoe to see me while the ship lay becalmed. As the canoe had not left us long before a gale of wind came on, I was alarmed for the consequence; however, I had the pleasure to find that my friend had escaped unhurt, though not with- 1. 'in !■ li u I'i 996 CAprAiN cook's out some difficulties. I take notice of tliis short ex- cursion, merely because it afforded no change in the disposition or behaviour of the inhabitants. I saw notniUfi: that could induce me to think that they were displeased with our return, or jealous of the intention of our second visit. On the contrary, tliat abundant good nature, which had always charac< terised them, seemed still to glow in every bosom, and to animate every countenance. The next day, February the 12th, the ships were put under a taboo by the chiefs — a solemnity, it spems, that was requisite to be observed before Kariopoo, the king, paid his first visit to Capt. Cook after his return. He waited upon him the same day, on board the Resolution, attended by a large train, some of wliicli bore the presents designed tor Capt. Cook, wlio received him in his usual friendly manner, and gave him several articles in return. This ami- cable ceremony being settled, the taboo was dis- solved ; matters went on in the usual train ; and the next day, February the 13th, we were visited by the natives in great numbers ; the Resolution's mast was landed, and the astronomical observatories erected on their former situation. I landed with another gentleman at the town of Kavaroah, where we found a great number of canoes just arrived from different parts of the island, and the Indians busy in con- structhig temporary huts on the beach for their resi- dence during the stay of the ships. On our return on board the Discovery, we learned that an Indian liad been detected in stealing the armourer's tongs from the force, for which he received a pretty severe flogging, and was sent out of the ship. Notwith- standing the example made of this man, in the after- noon another had the audacity to snatch the tongs and a chisel from the same place, with which he jumped overboard, and swam for the shore. The master and a midshipman were instantly dispatched after iiim in the small cutter. The Indian, seeing THIRD VOYAOB. S)37 ortex- ) in the I saw t they of the y, that harac- bosom, s were before ;. Cook 18 day, i train, p Capt. lanner, is ami- 18 dis- ^nd the by the astwas erected LDother I found ifferent n con- ir resi- return Indian I tongs severe itwith- after- i tong2 ich he . The Bitchod seeing liimself put sued, made for a canoe ; his countrymen took him on board, and paddled as switt as they could towards the shore. We fired several muskets at them, but to no efiect, for they soon got out of the reach of our shot. Pareah, one of the chiefs who was at that time on board the Discovery, under- standing what had happened, immediately went ashore, promising to bring back the stolen goods. Our boat was so far distanced in chasing the canoe which had taken the thief on board, that he had time to make his escape into the country. Cnptain Cook, who was then on shore, endeavoured to intercept his landing ; but it seeins that he was led out of the way by some of the natives, who had officiously intruded themselves as guides. As the master was approacii- ing near the landing-place, he was met by some of the Indians in a canoe ', they had brought back the tongs and chisel, together with another article that we had not missed, which happened to be the lid of the water-cask. Having recovered these things, he was returning on board when he was met by the lieso- lution's pinnace, with five men in her, who, without any orders, had come from the observatories to his assistance. Being thus unexpectedly reinforced, he thought himself strong enough to insist upon having tlie thief, or the canoe which took him in, delivered up as reprisals. With tliat view he turned back, and having tound the canoe on the beach, he was pre- paring to launch it into the water, when Pareah made his appearance, and insisted upon his not taking it away, as it was his property. Tlie officer not re- garding him, the chief seized him, pinioned his arms behind him, and held him by the hair of his head, on which one of the sailors struck him with an oar. Pareah instantly quitted the officer, snatched the oar out of the man's hand, and snapped it in two across his knee. At length the multitude began to attack our people with stones. They made some resistance, but were soon overpowered, and >bllged to swim for '! f ■ I', i iU 1 m ifw I m CAPTAIN C00K*8 safety to tlie small cutter, which lay further out tlian the pinnace. The officers, not being expert swim- mers, retreated to a small rock in the water, where they were closely pursued by the Indians. One man darted a broken oar at the master ; but his feet slin- ping at the time, he missed him, which fortunately saved that officer's life. At last Pareah interfered, and put an end to their violence. The gentlemen, knowing that his presence was their only safety, en- treated nim to stay with them till they could get off in their boats ; but this he refused; and left them. The master went to seek assistance from the party at the observatories, but the midshipman cnose to remain in the pinnace. He was very rudely treated by the mob, who plundered the boat of every thing that was loose on board, and then began to knock her to pieces for the sake of the iron work ; but Pareah fortunately returned in time to prevent her destruction. He had met the other gentleman on his way to the observa- tories, and, suspecting his errand, had forced him to return. He dispersed the crowd again, and desired the gentlemen to return on board ; they represented that all the oars had been taken out ot the boat, on wnich he brought some of them back, &nd the gen- tlemen were glad to get off without further molesta- tion. They had not proceeded far before they were overtaken by Pareah in a canoe ; he delivered the midshipman^s cap, which had been taken from him during the scuffle, joined noses with them in token oi reconciliation, and was anxious to know if Captain Cook would kill him for what had happened. The gentlemen assured him to the contrary, and made signs of friendship to him in return. He then left tliem, and paddled over to the town of Kavaroafa, and that was the last time we ever saw him. Capt. Cook returned on board soon after, much displeased with the whole of this disagreeable business, and the same night sent a lieutenant on board the Discovery, to lean the particulars of it, aa it had origmated h? that ship THIRD TOYAOB. ^20 it than Bwiin- where ae man et slin- inatelv •rferea, :lemen, (ty, en- get otf ; them, arty at remain le mob, lat wa8 ) pieces unately He had bserva- him to desired eseiited )oat, on le gen- lolesta- y were 'ed the m him oken oi iJaptaiii . The 1 made en left lb, and t.Cook >d with '* It was remarkable, that in the midst of the hurry, and confusion attending this aifair, Kanynah (a, cliief who bad always been on terms particularly rriendlv with us) came from the spot where it happened, with a hog to sell, on board the Discovery. It was of an extraordinary large size, and he demanded for it a pahowa, or dagger of an unusual length. He pointed to us that it must be as long as his arm. Captain Gierke not having one of that length, told him he would set one made for him by the morning ; with which being satisfied, he left tiie hog, and went on shore without making anv stay with us. It will not be altogether foreign to the subject to mention a cir- cumstance that happened to-day on board the Reso- lution. An Indian chief asked Capt. Cook at his table, if he was a Tata Toa, which means a fighting raao, or a soldier. Being answered in the affirmative, he desired to see his wounds. Captain Cook held out his right hand, which had a scar upon it, dividing the thumb from the finger, the whole length of the metacarpal bones. The Indian being thus convinced oi' uiS being a Toa, put the same question to another gentleman present, but who happened to have none of those distinguisliing marks. The chief then said that he himself was a Toa, and showed the scars of some wounds he had received in battle. Those who were on dutv at the observatories were disturbed during the night with shrill and melancholy sounds issuing from the adjacent villages, which they took to be the lamentations of the women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might have filled their minds with apprehensions for the safety of their husbands ; but be that as it may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels with unusual awe and terror. '*To widen the breach between us, some of the Indians in the night took away the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy of one of her anchors ; they had carried her ofi^ so quietly that we did not miss her till the morning of Sunday, 14th ,1, .1 ' i\ L ; t '! i: If , I. I " 3 I 330 CAPTAIN cook's February. Captain Gierke lost no time in waiting upon Captain Cfoolc to acquaint him with the accident. He returned on board with orders for the Ir.i?r.ch and small crtter to go, under the command of the second lieutenant, and lie off the east point of the bay, in order to intercept all canoes that might attempt to get Out, and if he found it necessary, to fire upon them. At the same time, the third lieutenant of the Resolution, with the launch and small cutter, was sent on the same service to the opposite point of the bay ; and the master was dispatched in a large cutter in pursuit of a double canoe already under sail, making the best of her way out of the harbour. He soon came up with her, and by firing a few muskets, drov9 her on shore, when the Indians left her This hap- pened to be the canoe of Omea, a man who bore the title of Orono. He himself was on board, and it would have been fortunate if our people haa secured him, for his person was held as sacred as that of the king. During this time Capt. Cook was preparing to go ashore himself at the 'own of Kavaroah, in order to secure the person of Kariopoo, before he should have time to withdraw himself to another part of the island out of our reach. This appeared the most effectual step that could be taken, or the present occasion, for the recovery of the boat. It was the measure he had invariably pursued in similar cases at other islands in these seas, and it had always been attended with the desired success. In fact, it would be difficult to fAnt out cny other mode of proceeding on these emergencies, likely to attain the object in view. We had reason to suppose that the king and his attend- ants had fled when the alarm was first given, and in that case it was 'Captain Cook's intention to secure the large canoes which were hauled up on the beach. He left the ship about seven o'clock, attended by the lieutenant of marines, a sergeant, a corporal, and at^van private men, the pinnace'? crew were *»^a« and under the command ot Mr. Roberts. Reven arme also As THIRD YOYAOB. 331 they rowed towards the shore. Captain Cook ordered the launch to leave her station at the west point of the bay, in order to assist his own boat. This is a circumstance worthy of notice, for it clearly shows that he was not unapprehensive of meeting resist* ance from the natives, or unmindful of the necessary f reparation for the safety of himself and his people, will venture to say, that from the appearance of things just at that time, there was not one beside himself who judged that such precaution was abso- lutely requisite ; so little did his conduct, on the occasion, bear the marks of rashness, or a precipitate self-confidence! He landed, with the marines, at the upper end of the town of Kavaroah : the Indians immediately flocked round as usual, and showed him the customary marks of respect, by prostrating them- selves before him. There were no signs of hostilities, nor much alarm among them. Captain Cook how- ever, did not seem willing to trust to appearances, but was particularly attentive to the disposition of the marines, and to have them kept clear of the crowd. He first inquired for the king's sons, two youths who were much attached to him, and generally his com- panions on board. Messengers being sent for them, they soon came to him, and informing iiim that their father was asleep at a house not far from them, he accompanied them thither, and took the marines along with them. As he passed along, the natives every where prostrated themselves before him, and seemed to have lost no part of that respect they had always shown to his person. He was joined by several chiefs, among whom was Kanynah, and his brother Koohowrooah. They kept the crowd in order, according to their usual custom, and being ignorant of his intention in coming on shore, frequently asked him if he wanted any hogs, or rather provisions : he told them he did not, and that his business was to see the king. When he arrived at the house, he told some of the Indians to go in and inform Kariopoo that he wailed T : 'V ■i; 1! li • : S :l; ' w i ' 1 ■ 'ii • m ll- i- "i i!' t 1 Ii ■ '( t ! i i • ■ 1 i If', ;:i ■ail! I H il 332 CAPTAIN cook's without to speak with him. They came out two or three times, and instead of returning anv answer from the Icing, presented some pieces of red cloth ro him, which made Captain Coolc suspect that he was not in the house, he therefore desired the lieutenant of the marines to go in. The lieutenant found tlie old man just awakened from sleep, and seemingly alarmed at the message ; but he came out without hesitation. Captain Cook took him by the hand, and in a friendly manner asked him to go on board, to which he very readily consented. Thus far matter^) appeared to be in a favourable train, and the natives did not seem much alarmed, or apprehensive of hos- tility on our side ; at which Captain Cook expressed hfmself a little suprised, saying, that as the inha- bitants of that town appeared innocent of stealing the cutter, he should not molest them, but that he must get the king on board. Kariopoo sat down before his own door, and was surrounded by a great crowd. Kanynah and his brother were both very active in keeping order among them. In a little time, however, the Indians were observed arming themselves with long spears, clubs, and daggers, and putting on thick mats, which they use as armour. This hostile appearance increased, and became more alarming, on the arrival of two men in a canoe from tho opposite side of a bay, with the news of a chief callea karemoo having been killed by one of the Dis- covery's boats. In their passage across, they had also delivered this account to each of the ships. Upon that information, the women who were sitting upon the beach at their breakfast, and conversing familiarly with our people in their boats, retired, and eonfused murmurs spread through the crowd. An old priest came to Captain Cook with a cocoa-nut in his hand, which he held to him as a present, at the same time singing very loud. He was often desired to be tilent, but in vain; he continued im|>ortunate and troublesome, and there was no such thing as getting THIRD VOYAaB. 338 rid of hini or his noise ; it seemed as if he meant to divert their attention from his countrymen, who were growing more tumultuous, and arming themselves in every quarter. Captain Cook, being at the same time surrounded by a great crowd, thought his situ- ation rather hazardous; he therefore ordered the lieutenant of marines to march his small party to tlie water side, where the boats lay within a few yards of the shore. The Indians readily made a lane for them to pass, and did not offer to interrupt them. The distance they had to go might he about fifty or sixty yards. Captain Cook followed, having hold of Kariopoo's hand, who accompanied him very wil- lingly : he was attended by his wife, two sons, and several chiefs. The troublesome old priest followed, making the same savage noise. Keowa, the younger son, went directly into the pinnace, expecting his father to follow, but just as he arrived at the water- side, his wife threw tier arms about his neck, and, with the assistance of two chiefs, forced him to sit down by the side of a double canoe. Captain Cook expostulated with them, but to no purpose ; they would not suffer the king to proceed, telling him that he would be put to death, if he went on board the ship. Kariopoo, whose conduct seemed entirely resigned to the will of others, hung down his head, and appeared much distressed. *< While the king was hi this situation, a chief. well known to us, of the name of Coho, v^as observed lurking near with an iron dagger, partly concealed under his cloak, seemingly with the hitention of stabbing Capt. Cook or the lieutenant of marines. The latter proposed to fire at him, but Captain Cook would not permit it. Coho, closing upon them, obliged the ofiicer to strike him with his piece, which made him retire. Another Indi&n laid hold of the sergeant's musket, and endeavcared to wrench it from him, but was prevented by the lieutenant's inuking a blow at him. Captain Cook, seeing the il 11: •! i' i;i iH I' m^>- :, f|;;;^-'| ^ r fi -■: . ? * 1 ■ *-• 1 .., 1 'i'l : if llY'-T""!"! 1^1 I *ilH» flllfllH" 334 CAPTAIN COOK'S tumult increase, and the Indians growing more da- ring and resolute, observed that if he were to take the king off by force, he could not do it without sacri^ ficing the lives of many of his people. He then paused a little, and was on the point of giving his orders to rc-embark, when a man threw a stone at him, which he returned with a discharge of small shot (with which one barrel of his double piece was loaded.) The man, having a thick mat before him, received little or no hurt ; he brandished his spear, and threatened to dart it at Captain Cook, who, being still unwilling to take away his life, instead of firing with bail, knocked him down with his musket. He expostulated strongly with the most forward of the crowd upon their turbulent behaviour. He had given up all thoughts of getting the king on board, as it appeared impracticable ; and his care was then to act on the defensive, and to secure a safe embarka- tion for his small party, which was closely pressed by a body of several thousand people. Keowa, the king^s son, who was in the pinnace, being alarmed on hearing the first firing, was, at his own entreaty, put on shore again ; for even at that time Mr. Ro- oertSy who commanded her, did not apprehend that Captain Cook's person was in any danger, otherwise he would have detained the prince, which, no doubt, would have been a great check on the Indians. One man was observed behind a double canoe, in the act of darting his spear at Captain Cook, who was forced to fire at him in his own defence, but happened to kill another close to him, equally forward m the tumult. The sergeant observing that he had missed the man he aimed at. received orders to fire at him, which he did, and killed him. By this time, the im- petuosity of the Indians was somewhat repressed: they fell back in a bodv, and seemed staggered ; but i being pushed on by those behind, they returned to the charge, and poured a volley of stones, among the •narines. who. without waiting for orders, returned THIRD VOYaO^; 095 it with a general discharge of musketry, which was instantly followed by a fire from the boats. At this Captain Cook was heard to express his astonishment; he waved his hand to the boats, called to them to cease firhig, and to come nearer in to receive the marines. Mr, Roberts immediately brought the pin- nace as close to the shore as he could without ground- ingy notwithstanding the showers of stones that fell among the people ; but , the lieutenant, who commanded in the launch, instead of pulling in to the assistance of Captain Cook, withdrew his boat further off, at the moment that every thing seems to have depended upon the timely exertions of those in the boats. By his own account, he mistook the sig- nal ; but be that as it may, this circumstance appears to me to have decided tne fatal turn of the affairs ; and to have removed every chance which remained with Captain Cook of remaining with his life. The business of saving the marines out of the water, in consequence of that, fell altogether upon the pinnace, which thereby became so much crowded, that the crew were in a great measure prevented from using their fire-arms, or giving what assistance they other- wise might have done to Captain Cook ; so that he seems, at the most critical point of time, to have wanted the assistance of both boats, owing to the removal of the launch. For notwithstanding they kept firing on the crowd from the situation to which they removed in that boat, the fatal confusion which ensued on her being withdrawn must, to say the least of it, have prevented the full effect, that the prompt co-operation of the two boats, according to Captain Cook's orders, must have had, towards the preserva- tion of himself and his people. At that time it was to the boats aione that Captain Cook had to look for his safety ; for when the marines had fired, the In- dians rushed among them, and forced them into the water, where four of them were killed ; their lieu- tenant was wounded^ but fortunately escaped, and J: m nh [III t urn 336 CAPTAIN COOKS was taken up by the pinnace. Captain Cook was then the onlv one reniainin|f on the rock ; he was observed making for tlie pinnace, holding his left hand against the back of his head, to guard it from tlie stones, and carrying his musket under the other arm. An Indian was seen following him, but with caution and timidity ; for he stopped once or twice, as if undetermined to proceed. At last he advanced upon him unawares, and with a large club, or com- nioa stake, gave him a blow on the back of the head, and then precipitately retreated. The stroke seemed to have stunned Captain Cook ; he staggered a few pact's, then tell on his hand and one knee, and drop- ped his musket. As he was rising, and before he could recover his feet, anotlier Indian stabbed him in the back of the neck with an iron dagger. He tlien fell into a pool of water, about knee deep, where others crowded upon him, and endeavoured to keep him uuder : but struggling very strongly with them, he got his head up, and, casting his look towards the pinnace, seemed to solicit assistance. Tliough the boat was not above five or six yards distant from him, yet, from tlie crowded and confused state of the crew, it seems it was not in their power to save him. The Indians got him under again, but in deeper water; he was, however, able to get his head up once more, and being almost spent in the struggle, he naturally turned to the rock, and was endeavour- ing to support himself by it, when a savage gave him a blow witli a club, and he was seen alive no more. They hauled him up lifeless on the rocks, where they seemed to take a savage pleasure in using every barbarity to his dead body, snatching the daggers out of each other's hands, to have the horrid satis- faction of piercing the fallen victim of their barbarous rage. ** I need make no reflection on the great loss whicli we sutiered on this occasion, or attempt todescrihej what we felt. It is enough to say that no niau wu( THIRD VOYAGE. 307 3ok was he was his left I it from ;he other but with or twice, idvanced or com- the head, .6 seemed ed a few ind drop- before he bbed him rger. He lep, where id to keep irith them, iwards the lougli the from him, te of the save him. in deeper head up struggle, ideavour- gave him no more, here they ing every le daggers irrid satis- barbarous ever more beloved or admired, and it is truly painful to reflect, that he seems to have fallen a sacrifice merely for want of being properly supported — a fate singularly to be lamented, as having fallen to the lot of one who had ever been conspicuous for hi& care of those under his command, and who seemed, to the last, to pay as much attention to their preservation, as to that of his own life. ** If any thing could have added to the shame and indignation universally felt on this occasion, it was TO find that his remains had been deserted and left exposed on the beach, although they misht have been brought off. It appears from the information of four or five midshipmen, who arrived on the spot ut the conclusion of the fatal business, that the beach was then almost entirely deserted by the Indians, who at length had given way to the fire of the boats, and dispersed through the town ; so that there »eemed no great obstacle to prevent the recovery of Captain Cook's body ; but the lieutenant returned on board without making the attempt. It is unne- cessary to dwell longer on this painful subject, and to relate the complamts and censures that fell oo the conduct of the lieutenant. It will be sufficient to ob- serve, that they were so loud as to oblige Captain Gierke publicly to notice them, and to take down the deposition of his accusers in writing. The cap- tain's bad state of health and approaching dissolu- tion, it is supposed, induced him to destroy these papers a short time before his death. *' It is a pauiful task to be obliged to notice cir- cumstances which seem to reflect upon the character of any man. A strict regard to truth, however, compelled me to the insertion of these facts, which I have offered merely as facts, without presuming to connect with them any comment of my own : es- teeming it the part of a faithful historian * to exte- nuate nothing, nor set down aught in malice.' *' The fatal accident happened at eight o'clock ia 20 16 - • ii ■iiiii 111 I n aas CAPTAIN COOIC^ ^be morning, about an hour after Captain Coo!i .aiided. It did not seem that the king or his sons were witnesses to it, but it is supposed that they withdrew in the midst of the tumult. The principal actors were the other chiefs, many of them tne king's relations and attendants. The man who stabbed him with the dagger was called Nooah. I happened to be the only one who recollected his person, from having on a former occasion mentioned his name in the Journal I kept. I was induced to take particular notice of him, more from his personal appearance than any other consideration, though he was of high rank, and a near relation to the king. He was stout and tall, with a fierce look and demeanour, and one who united in his figure the two qualities of strengtli and agility in a greater degree tnan ever I remem- bired to have before seen in any other man. His age might be about thirty, and by the white scurf on his fWin, and his sore eyes, he appeared to be a hard drinker of kava. He was a constant companion of the king, with whom I first saw him when he paid a vbit to Captain Clerke. The chief who first struck Captain Cook with tiie club was called Karimano r*Hba, but I did not know him by his name. These ciivumstances 1 learned of honest Kaireeka, the priest, who added that they were both held in great esteem on account of that action. Neither of them came near us afterwards. When the boats left the shore, the Indians carried away the dead body of Captain Cook, and those of the marines, to the rising ground at the back of the town, where we could plainly see them with our glasses from the ships. ** This most melancholy accident appears to have been altogether unexpected and unforeseen, as well ou the part of the natives as ourselves. I never saw tufiicient reason to induce me to believe that there was any thing of design, or a preconcerted plan on tlieir side, or that they purposely sought to quarrel with us. Thieving, which gave ise to tlie wholes ti THIRD TOTAOB. they werp equally guilty of in our first and second visits. It was the cause of every misunderstanding that happened between us ; their petty thefts were generally overlooked, but sometimes sllghtlv punish* ed; the boat, which they at last ventured to take away, was an object of no small magnitude to people hi our situation, who could not possibly reolace her. and therefore not slightly to be given up. We had* no other chance of recovering her, but by getting the person of the king into our posession. On our attempting to do that, the natives became alarmed for his safety, and naturally opposed those whom they deemed his enemies. In the sudden conflict that ensued, we had the unspeakable misfortune to lose our excellent commander in the manner already related. It is in this light the affair has always ap- {>eared to me as entirely accidental, and not in tne east owing to any previous offence received, or jea« lousy of our second visit entertamed b^r the natives. " Pareah seems to have been the principal instru • ment in bringing about this fatal disaster. We learned afterwards that it was he who had employed some people to steal the boat. The kinp^ did not seem to be privy to it, or even apprized ot what had happened, till Captain Cook landed. *^ It was generally remarked, that at first the Indi- ans showed great resolution in facing our fire-arms ; but it was entirely owing to ignorance of their effect. They thought that their thick mats would defend them from a ball as well as from a stone ; but being soon convinced of their error, yet still at a loss to account how such execution was done among them, they had recourse to a stratagem which, though it answered no other purpose, served to shew their in- §enuity and quickness of invention Observing the ashes of the muskets, they nat irally concluded that water would counteract their effect, and there- fore very sagaciously dipped their mats or armour in the sea, just as they came on to face our people ; l! 2140 CHARACTER OF CAPTAIN COOK. but finding this last resource to fail them, they soon dispersed, and left the beach entirely clear. It was an object they never neglected, even at the greatest hazard, to carry off their slain— a custom, probably, owing to the barbarity with which they treat tlie dead body of an enemy, and the trophies they make of his bones." In consequence of this barbarity of disposition, the whole remains of Captain Cook could not be reco- vered ; for tliough every exertion was made for that purpose — though negotiations and threatenings were alternately employed, little more tiian the principal 1»art of his bones (and that with great difficulty) could »e procured. By the possession of them, our navi- gators were enabled to perform the last offices to their eminent and unfortunate commander. The bones having been put into n offin, and the service being read over them, were committed to the deep on the 21st, with the usual naval honours. A promotion of officers followed the decease of Captain Cook. Captain Clerke, having succeeded of course to the command of the expedition, removed on board the Resolution. By him Mr. Gore was ap- pointed captain of the Discovery, and the rest of the lieutenants obtained an addition of rank in their proper order. Mr. Harvey, a midshipman, who had been in the last as well as the present voyage, was promoted to the vacant lieutenantcy. The particulars of the voyage, after the death of Capt. Uook, will be found in the Appendix. The foUowhig remarks on the character of Captain Cook, will be read with interest : — '* Captain James Cook possessed," says the writer, *' in an eminent degree, all the qualifications requisite for his profession and great undertakings ; together with tlie amiable and worthy qualities of the best men. ** Cool and deliberate in judging : sagacious in de- CHARACTER OF CAPTAIN COOK. 341 temiining : active in executing : stead v and perse- vering in enterprising^ from vigilance and unremitting eaution : unsundued by labour, difficulties, and dis- appointments : fertile in expedients ; never wanting presence of mind ; always possessing himself, and the full use of a sound understanding. ** Mild, just, but exact in discipline : he was a fa- ther to his people, who were attached to him from affection, and obedient from confidence. " His knowledge, his experience, his sagacity, ren- dered him so entirely master of his subject, that the greatest obstacles were surmounted, and the most dangerous navigations became easy, and almost safe, under his direction. ** By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of his ship's company, he discovered and hi- troduced a system for the preservation of the health of seamen in' long voyages, which has proved won- derfully efficacious. ** The death of this eminent and valuable man was a loss to mankind in general ; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that respects useful accom- plishments, that honours science, and loves the bene- volent and amiable affections of the heart. It is still more to be deplored bv this country, which may justly boast of havin? produced a man hitherto unequalled for nautical talents ; and that sorrow is farther ag- gravated by the reflection, that his country was de- prived of this ornament by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might have been dreaded, but from whom it was not deserved. For, actuated always by the most attentive care and tender com- passion for the savages in general, this excellent man was ever assiduously endeavouring, by kind treat- ment, to dissipate their fears, and court their friend- ship ; overlooking their thefts and treacheries, and frequently interposing, at the hazard of his life, to grotect them from the sudden resentment of his owa ijured people* Iff I . 342 OHARACTBR OP CAPTAIN COOK. I " Trarveller! contemplate, admire, revere, and ema- late this great master in his profession ; wliose skill and labours have enlarged natural philosophy ; have extended nautical science ; and have disclosed the long concealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty in the formation of this globe, and, at the same time, the arrogance of mortals, in presuming to account, by their speculations, for the laws by which he was pleased to create it. It is now discovered, beyond all doubt, that the same ftteai Being who created the universe by his^a^, by the same ordained our earth to keep a Just poise, without a correspond- ing southern continent, and it does so. He itretches aui the north over the empty place^ and hangeth the earth upon nothina.^Job xxvi. 7. *' If the arduous but exact researches of this extra- ordinary man have not discovered a new world, they have discovered seas unnavigated and unknown be- fore. They have made us acquainted with islands, people, and productions of which we had no concep- tion. And ir he has not been so fortunate as Ame- ricas, to give his name to a continent, his pretensions to such a distinction remain unrivalled ; and he will be revered while there remains a page of his own modest account of his vovages, and as long as mari- oers and geographers shall be instructed, by his new map of the southern hemisphere, to trace the various courses and discoveries he has made. *' If public services merit public acknowledgements ; if the man, who adorned and raised the fame of his country, is deserving of honours, then Captain Cook deserves to have a monument raised to bis memory by a generous and grateful nation." ■iiJ I ■! 9t tit APPENDIX. i:jjii !' -H K'-'..:.,' '^ Afteh the death of Captain Cook, and the events immediately succeeding: it, Captain Gierke, upon whom the command of the expedition had devolved, proceeded from Owhyhee, and coasted several of the other islands of the group. The ships anchored at Atooi to procure water ; in doing this our voyagers experienced some interruption from the natives, and a slight conflict took place, in which one of the islanders was wounded hy a musket-shot. They were here told, that, at their preceding visit, they had left a disorder amongst the women, of which seve- ral persons of both sexes had died ; and as there was not the slightest appearance of the disorder amongst the natives, at the first arrival of the vessels, there is too much reason to believe that some of the crew were the authors of that iireparable mischief. Atooi was in a state of internal warfare ; the quarrel had arisen about the goats Captain Cook had left at Oneehow the year before ; the property of which was contested by two diiferent chiefs. The goats, which had increased to the number of six, and would pro- bably in a few ^ears have stocked all these islands, were destroyed in the contest. Our voyaeers left the Sandwich Islands finally on the 15th of March : and stood to the south-west in hopes of falling in with the island of Modoopapappa, which thev were told by the natives lay in that di- rection, about five hours' sail from Taohora; but though the two vessels stretched asunder several 1 'M »' ■'if i r 344 Ai'PBNUIX. miles, they did not discover it. It is possible it inigbt Iiave been passed in tlie night, as the islanders described it to be small, sandy, and almost even with the surface of the sea. The harbonr of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in Awatska Bay, was appointed for the next rendezvous of the two vessels, in case of separation. In the course of their navigation towards Kamtschaika, '^ they traversed that part of the Northern Pacific, in which some islands and lands were laid down in the charts, such as the island of Reia de Plata in De I'Isle's chart, and the land said to have been seen by John de Oama, in a voyage frorn China to New Spain, first delineated in a chart published by Texeira, a Portuguese geographer, in 1649 ; but though at sundry times they had various indications of land, they discovered none, and those islands and lands must, therefore, either be of trifling extent, or wholly imaginary. A leak under the larboard bow of the Resolution, which had kept the people almost constantly at the pumps, ever since their leaving the Sandwich Islands, occasioned a great alarm on tlie 13th of April. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not finding a sufiicient vent into the well, had forced up the plat- forms over it, and in a moment deluged the whole space between decks. The coals would very soon choke up a pump, and the number of bulky materials that were wash ad out of the gunner's store room, and which, by the ship's motion, were tossed violently from side to side, rendered it impracticable to bale the water out. No other method was therefore left, tlian to cut a hole through the bulk-head, that sepa- rated the coal-hole from che fore-hold. As soon as the passage was made, the greatest part of the water was emptied into the well ; but the leak was now so much increased, that it was necessary to keep one half of the people constantly pumping and baling, till the noon of the 15th. ■*^'.- THIRD VOfAOB. aiA On the 23d, at bix in the morning, on the fog clear- ing away, the land of Kamtschatka appeared, in mountains covered with snow. The weather was most severe; the ships appeared to be complete masses of ice ; and the shrouds were so incrusted with it, as to measure in circumference more than double their usual size. The crews suftered very severely from the colri^ particularly from having la^e^y left the tropical climates; and, but for the foresight and care of their officers, would indeed have been in a deplo- rable state. It was natural to exptcr, that their ex- perience, during their voyage to the north the year before, would have made them sensible of the neces- sity of paying some attention to their clothing ; as it was generally known, in both sliips, that they were to make another voyage towards the pole ; but, with the thoughtlessness of infants, upon their return to a warm climate, their fur jackets and the rest of their cold-country clothes, were kicked about the decks, as tilings of no value. They were of course picked up by the officers, and being put into casks, were, in due season, restored to their owners. On the 25th, when off the entrance of Awatska Bay, the Resolution lost sight of the Discovery, and on the 28th entered the Bay. The officers of the Resolution examined every corner of it with their glasses, in search of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, which they had conceived to be a place of some strength and consideration. At length they discovered, on a narrow point of land, a few misera- ble loghouses, and some conical huts raised on poles, amounting in all to about thirty, which, from the situation, they were under the necessity of conclu- ding to be Petropaulowska. " However," says Cap» tain King, "injustice to the generous and hospitable treatment we found here, I shall beg leave to antici- pate the reader's curiosity, by assuring him that our disappointment proved to be more of a laughable 'hiin a serious nature ; for, in this wretched extre- >) } 5; Hi !i. m Si i ■ -S S4tf APPEflDIX. mity of the earth, situated beyond every turns that we conceive to be most barbarous and inbospltable, and, as it were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricaded with ice, and covered with summer- snow, in a poor miserable port, far inferior to the meanest of our fishing-towns, we met with feelings of humanity, joined to a greatness of mind, and ele- vation of sentiment, which would have done honour to any nation or climate/' In the morning of the 29th, Captain, then Lieute- nant King was sent on shore ; and after experiencing much difficulty from the broken ice that extended nearly half a mile across which he was obliged to mal^e the best of his way on foot, was received by the commander of the garrison at the head of his men, consisting of about thirty soldiers. They had not seen the ship the preceding day, nor indeed that morning, till the boats were pretty near the ice. Much panic ensued ; the garrison was put under arms, and two field-pieces placed at the entrance of the commander's house. All, however, soon wore a friendly aspect, and nothing could exceed the kind- ness and hospitality of the ofiicer, a sergeant, who commanded the Ostrog, and at whose house they were entertained. He furnished Lieutenant King, who had fallen in between the disjointed ice, with a complete suit of clothes of his own ; the dinner that was served up consisted of four courses ; but the con- versation, from the want of an interpreter, no other language being understood there but Russian and Kamtschatdale, was confined to a few bows and other signs of mutual respect. The sergeant sent off an express to Bolcheretsk, where the governor of tiie province usually resided, and whence he had to look for orders what to do, as to the procurement of the supplies of provisions, and naval stores, which our people wanted. On their return, a sledge drawn by five dogs, with a driver, was provided for each of the party. The ATPBNDJX. 347 sailors were highly delighted with this mode of con- veyance, and. what diverted them most was, that the two boat-hooKs which they had brought, had also a sledge to themselves. On the 1st of May, the Discovery entered the bay* On the day after, early in the morning, an answer was received from Bolcheretsk. The dispatches had been sent off on the 29th, about noon, by a sledge drawn by dogs, so that they were only a little more than three days and a half in performing a journey of two hundred and seventy miles ; Bolcheretsk being aiiout one hundred and thirty-five miles from St. Peter and St. Paul. As the whole stock of live cattle which the country about the bay could afford, amounted only to two heifers, Captam Gierke found it necessary to send to Bolcheretsk, and Captain Gore and Lieutenant King were fixed on for the excursion. They proceeded by boats up the Awatbka river, then across part of the country in sledges, and then down the Bolchoireka in canoes. Maior Behm, the governor of Kamtschatka, re- ceived them, not only with the utmost politeness, but with the most engaging cordiality ; and all the principal people of the town vied with each other who should shew the most civility to strangers from the other extremity of the globe. A list of the naval stores, the number of cattle, and the quantity of Hour wanted by the navigators, was given to Major Behm. who insisted upon supplying all their wants; and when they desired to be made acquainted with the price of the articles, with which they were to be sup- plied, and proposed that Captain Clerke should give bills to the amount on the Victualling-office in Lon- don, the major positively refused, and whenever it was afterwards urged, stopped them short, by saying, he was certain he could not oblige his mistress, the empress, more than in givin^r every assistance in his power to her goud friends a::^d allies* the English ; « I i h' If ■Ji 348 APVKNDIX. and that it would be a particular 8atidiu?tton to Ist^r, to hear, that, in so remote a part of the world, her dominions had afforded any relief to ships engaged in such services ; that he could not, therefore, act so contrary to the character of his empress, as to accept of any bills ; but that, to accommodate the matter, he would take a bare attestation of the particulars with which we might be furnished, and that this he would transmit to his court, as a certificate of having performed his duty. The town of Bolcheretsk consists of several rows of low buildings, barracks for the Russian soldiers and Cossacks, a good looking church, and a court-room, with agreat number of balagans (summer habitations) belonging to the Kamtschatdales, at the end of the town. The inhabitants amount to between five and six hundred. It would exceed the bounds to which this sketch must necessarily be confined, to enumerate one half of the instancesof civility and attention which Major Behm, his lady, the officers of the garrison, and the inhabitants of the town bestowed upon the English travellers. One generous present cannot, however, be passed over in silence, both because it consisted of the greatest part of their small store of the article, and because it called forth from the British seamen, a corresponding generosity. Being informed of the privations the sailors had suffered from the want of tobacco, Major Behm sent fonr bags of it, weighing upwards of one hundred pounds each, which he beg- ged might be presented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his command, to our sailors. When the seamen were told of it, the crews of both ships desired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog might be stopped, and their allowance of spirits presented, on their part, to the garrison of Bolche- retsk, as they had reason to conclude, that brandy was scarce in the country, and would be very accep- table, since the soldiers on shore had offered four APPENDIX. b4U roubles a bottle for it. When it is considered how much the sailors would feel from the stoppage oi their allowance of grog, and that this offer would deprive them of it auring the inclement season they had to expect on their ensuing expedition to the north, the sacrifice must be looked upon as generous and extraordinary : and, that they might not suffer by it, Captain Gierke substituted , in the room of the very small quantity the major could be prevailed on to accept, the same quantity of rum. When the party returned to Petropaulowska, Major Behm accompanied them, and visited the ships. He had resigned the command of Kamtschatka, and was in a short time to return to St. Petersburgh ; ourna- vigators therefore committed to his care dispatches for England, with the journals and charts of the voyage so far. They got about twenty head of cattle, about nine thousand weight of rye nour, and a variety of other provisions and refreshments here, especially fish, with which they were absolutely overpowered from every quarter ; and, havhig completed their water, thev weighed anchor on the ISth of June, and on the 16tn deared the bay. The volcano, situated to the north of the harbour, was in a state of eruption at tiie time. On the 5th of July, our navigators passed through Behring's Straits, having run along the Asiatic coast; they then stretched over to that of America, with a view of exploring it between the latitudes of 68 deg. and 69 deg. But iu this attempt they were disap- pointed, being stopped on the 7th, by a large and compac* Held of ice connected with the land. On the Uth, thev had sailed nearly forty leagues to the west- ward, along the edge of the ice, without seeing any opemng, und had therefore no prospect of advancing ' Jrther north. — Until the 27th, however, they con- uiiues to seek a passage, fir&t on the American, and ihtn o*^. the Asiatic side; but were never able to 1^^ 350 APPENDIX.. penetrate farther north than 76 deg. 33 min. whicli was five leagues short of the point to which they had advanced the season before. \.w one time, in attempting to penetrate to the northwestward, theDiscovery was in a very dangerous situation. She became so entangled by several large pieces of ice, that her way was stopped, and imme- diately dropping bodily to leeward, she fell broadside foremost on the edge of a considerable body of ice, and having at the same time an o])en sea to wind- ward, the surf caused her to strike violently upon it. TJiis mass at length either so far moved or broke, as to set them at liberty to make another trial to escape; but, before the ship gathered way enough to be under command, she again fell to leeward on another frag- ment ; and the swell making it unsafe to lie to wind- ward, and no chance of getting clear, they pushed into a small opening, furled their sails, and made fast with ice-hooks. A change of wind, however, taking place in the afternoon, the ice began to separate, and setting all their sails, they forced a passage through it. The vessel had rubbed off a great deal of the sheathing from her bows, and became very leaky from the strokes she haci received when she fell on the edge of the ice. In these high latitudes, our navigators killed several sea-horses, and also two white bears; the flesh of the latter afforded a few excellent meals of fresh meat. It had indeed a strong fishy taste, but was in every respect superior to that of the sea- horse, which, nevertheless, the sailors were again persuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer to their suited provisions. Finding a further advance to the northward, ')9 well as a nearer approach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice, Captain Gierke at length determined to lose no more time in the pursuit of what seemed utterly unattainable, and to sail for Awatska Bay to repair their damages, and before APPENDIX. 351 the winter should set in, to explore the coast of Japan on their wiw towards Europe. To the great Joy, therefore, of every individual on board both ships, they turned their faces towards home ; and the de- light and satisfaction they experienced on the occa- sion, notwithstanding the tedious vovage they had to make, and the immense distance they had to run, were as freely entertained, and perhaps as fully en- joyed, as if they had been already in sight of the Land's End. On the 31st, they repassed Behring's Straits. With respect to the practicability of a north-east or north-west passage into the Pacific Ocean, through those straits, from the result of their attempts it appears, that the north of the straits is clearer of ice in August than in July, and perhaps in a part of September it may still be more free. But, after the equinox, the days shorten so fast, that no further thaw can be expected, and so great an effect cannot rationally be allowed to the warm weather in the first half of September as to imagine it capable of dis- persing the ice from the most northern parts of the American coast. But admitting this to be possible, it would be madness to attempt to run from the icy cape to the known parts of Baffin's Bay, (a distance of four hundred and twenty leagues) in so short a time as that passage can be supposed to remain open. Upon the Asiatic side, there appears still less proba- bility of success I for, though Deshneff, a Russian navi£'ator, about a century and a half ago, passed round the north-east point of Asia, no voyager has yet been able to double Gape Taimura beyond the mouth of the Lena, which stretches to the 78th degree of latitude. Captam Gierke's health now rapidly declined, and, on the 17th of August, he was no longer able to get out of his bed. On the 21st, the^ made the coast of Kamtschatka : and on the followmg day, at nine in the morning, Gaptain Gierke disd. His disease was :|| V'1 if 4 V If 352 APPENDIX. consu.nption, which had evidently commenced before he left £nglandy and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. On the 24th, the vessels anchored in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, where the gentlemen on board were received by their Russian iriendSy with the same cordiality as before. Captain Gore, upon whom the command of the expedition devolved, removed himself to the Resolution, and appointed Mr. King to the command of the Discovery. He sent off an express to the commander at Bolcheretsk, in which he requested to have sixteen head of black cattle. The eruption of the volcano, which had taken place at the time of the late departure of the vessels from Awatska, had done no damage, not withstand* ing stones had fallen at the Ostrog of the size of a goose's egg. Attempts were now made to repair, as far as was practicable, the damage the Discovery had sustained m the ice, and in removing the sheathing, eight feet of plank in the wale were found to be so very rotten as to make it necessary to shift it. The carpenters were sent on shore in search of a tree large enough for the purpose : luckily they found a birch, which was the only one of sufficient size in the whole neigh- bourhood of the bay. Tiie crews were emploved in various necessary occupations ; amongst which, four men were set apart to haul the seine for salmon, which were caught in great abundance, and of excel- lent quality. After supplying the immediate wants of both ships, they salted down near a ho^rshead a day. The sea-horse blubber, with which they had stored themselves, during their expedition to the north, was boiled down, for oil now became a neces- sary article, their candles having been long since all used. The body of Gapt. Gierke was mterred on Sunday, the ^th, with all the solemnity and honours thev could bestow, under a tree, in the valley on the north APPEITOIX. 863 side of the harbour ; a bpot, which the priest of Para^ tounea said, would be as near as he could guess, in the centre of the new church intended to be erected. On the 3rd of September, arrived an ensign from Bolcheretsk, with a letter from Captain Shmailelf, the present commander, who promised the cattle required, and that he would himself pay them a visit immediately on the arrival of a sloop, which was daily expected from Okotzk. On the morning of the lOth, a Russian p:aliot, from Okotzk, was towed into the harbour. She had been thirty-five days on her passage, and had been seen from the lighthouse a fortnight before, beating up towards the mouth of the bay. There were fifty soldiers in her, with their wives and children, and several other passengers ; a sub-lieutenant, who came in her, now took the command of the garrison, and from some cause or other, which the English could not learn, their old friend the sergeant, the late com- mander of the place, fell into disgrace, and was no longer suffered to sit down in the company of his own ofiicero. From the galiot,^ our navigators got a small quan- tity of pitch, tar, cordage, and twine, and a hundred and forty skins of flour, containing 13,7821bs English. The Hospodin Ivaskin from Verchnei had bi^n desired by Major Behm to attend the English officers on their return to the harbour, in order to be their interpreter. He now came. Ue was an exile : and was of a considerable family in Russia ; his father was a general, and he himself, after having received his education partly in France and partly in Germany, had been page to the Empress Elizabeth and ensign in her guards. At the age of six teen, he was knowied, had his nose slit, and was banished, first to Siberia, and afterwards to Kamtschatka, where he had ed thirty-one years. Ue bore in his whole figure ttie strongest marks of old age, though he had scarcely reached his fifty-fourth yeax. ^o one there knew 20 '^ A 1 jl:l 'I Hi sr4 ArPBNDTX. tiie cause of hia banishment, but tliey tuok it for granted, that it mast have been for somethios very atrocious, as two or three of the commanders of Kamtschatlca, had in vain endeavoured to get him recalled since the present empress's reign. For the Hrst twentv years he had not tasted bread, nor been allowed subsistence of any liind, but had lived during that period among the Kamtschatdales, on what his own activity and toil in the chase could procure him. Afterwards, )ie had a small pension granted him. This Major Behm, by his intercession had caused to he increased to one hundred roubles a year, which is tiie common pay of an ensign in all parts of the em- press's dominions, except in this province, where the pay of all the officers is double. This gentleman joined Captains Qore and King on a bear-hunting party on the 17th, for two days ; in which, first from the party being too large, and the unavoidable noise that was the consequence of it, and next, from the unfavourable weather after they separated, they were wholly unsuccessful. On the 22d, the anniversary of his majesty's coro- nation, and when they were sitting down to as hand- some a feast as their situation would admit of, in honour of the day, tlie arrival of Captain Shmalelf irom Bolciieretsh was announced. He partook o^ their festivities, and set off on his return on the 25th. Before his departure, he reinstated the sergeant in the command of the place, and took with him the sub- lieutenant who had superseded him. Captain King accompanied Captain Shmalelf to the entrance of Awatsba river, and on Sunday, the 26th, attended him to church at Paratounea. The church is of wood, and by far the best building in the country round about the bay. It is ornamented by many paintings, particularly with two pictures of §t. Peter and St^ Pauly presented by Bhering, and which, in the real richness of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the first of European performances ; for all the APrfiNDIX. av principal parts of it are made of thick plates of solid siiver, fastened to the canvass, and fashioned into tht various foldings of their robes. Tlie next day another huntinpf party was set on foot under the direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated bear- hunter. The produce was a female bear, beyond tlie common size, which they shot in the water, and found dead the next morning in the place to which she had been watched. The mode of hunting these animals by the natives is as follows. When they came to the ground frequented by the bears, their first step is to look for their tracks ; these are found in the greatest numbers leading horn the woods down to the lakes, and among the long Bedgy grass and brakes by the edge of the water. The place of ambuscade being determined on, the hunters next fix in the ground the crutches upon which their firelocks are made to rest, pointing them in the direction they mean to shoot. This done, they kneel, or lie down, and, with their bear-spears by their side, wait for the game. These precautions, which are chieAy taken in order to make sure of their mark, are, on several accounts, highly expedient. For, in the first place, ammunition is so dear in KamtHchatka, that the price of a bear will not pur- chase more of it than is 'Sufficient to load a muslcet four or five times ; and, whut is more material, if the bear be not rendered incapable of pursuit by tlie first shot, the consequences are often iatal. He immediately makes towards the place whence the noise and smoke issue, and attacKS his adversaries with great fury. It is impossible for them to relo4d, as the animal is seldom at more than twelve or fifteen yards distance when he is fired at : so that if he does not fall, they immediately put themselves in a pos- ture to receive him upon their spears, and their safety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal stab as he first comes upon them. If he parries the thrust (which h^.-dXi^, by the extraordinary strength IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 Ik ■ 30 I D^ 112.0 m 1.25 1.4 1.6 < 6" ► V v^ c^:^, ' . o^i^ ^j> 45^ v^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WSST MAIN STREET WEBSTCr.N.Y. 14SS0 r't6)S73-4503 V iV <^ •N? \\ ;\ '<> .•fe ^^- r.4^ 0^ 356 APPENDIX. aud agility of their paws, are often enabled to do) and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries, the con- flict becomes very unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone suffice to pay the forfeit. On the 1st of October, the cattle arrived from Verchnei, and the 3d, being the nameday of the empress, Captain Gore invited the priest of Para- tounea, Ivaskin, and the sergeant, to dinner, and an entertainment was also provided for the inferior officers of the garrison, for the taions of Paratounea and Petropaulowska, and for the better sort of the Kamtschatdale inhabitants. The rest of the natives of every description were invited to partake with the ships' companies, who had a pound of good fat beef served up to each man, and what remained of their spirits was made into grog, and divided amongst them. On the 5th, our navigators received from Bolche- retsk a fresh present of tea, sugar, and tobacco. Tliey were ready for sea, but the weather prevented them from leaving the bay till the 9th. Just before they weighed anchor, the drummer of the marines belonging to the Discovery deserted, having been last seen with a Kamtschatdale woman, to whom his messmates knew he had been much attached, and who had often been observed persuading him to stay behind. This man had been long useless to them, from a swelling in his knee, which rendered him lame, but this made them the more unwilling to leave him behind, to become a burthen both to the Russians and himself. Some of the sailors were therefore sent to a well known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where they found him and his woman. On the return of the party with the deserter, the vessels weighed, and came out of the bay. Awatska Bay has within its mouth a noble basin of twenty-five miles in circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tareinska to the west, Rakoweena to the east, and the small one of St. Peter and St. Paul to APPENDIX. 357 the north. The last mentroned is a most convenient Httle harbour. It will hold with ease half-a-dozen ships moored head and stem, and is fit for givins them any kind of repairs. The south side is formed by a low sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the Ostrog is built. The deepest water within is seven fathoms, and in every part over a muddy bottom. There is also a watering-place at the head of the harbour. The commerce of this country, as far as regards the exports, is entirely confined to furs, and carried on by a company of merchants instituted by the em- press. Besides these, their are many inferior traders (particularly Cossacks) scattered through the coun- try. Formerly this commerce was altogether carried on by barter, but lately every article is bought and sold for ready money only. Our sailors brought a great number of furs with them from the coast of America, and were both astonished and delighted with the quantity of silver the merchants paid down for them, but on finding neither gin-shops to resort to, nor tobacco, nor any thing else that they cared tor, to be had for money, the roubles soon became troublesome companions, and were often to be seen kicked about the decks. The articles of importation are principally Euro- pean, several likewise come from Siberia, Bucharea, the Kalmucks, and China. They consist of coarse woollen and linen cloths, yarn stockings, bonnets and gloves, thin Persian silks, cottons and nankeens, handkerchiefs, brass and copper pans, iron stoves, files, guns, powder and shot, hardware, looking- glasses, fiour, sugar, tanned hides, &c. Though the merchants have a large profit upon these imported goods, they have a still larger upon the furs of Kiaehta, upon the frontiers of China, which is the great market for them. The best sea-otter skins sell generally in Kamtschatka for about thirty rou- bles each. The Chinese merchant at Kiachta pur< I I' li.^ \\i if 358 APPENDIX* ehoaes tnem at more than double that price, and sells them again at Pekin at a prreat a^ivaiice, whence a farther profitable trade is made with some of them to Japan. If, therefore, a skin is worth thirty foa- blcs m Kamtschatka, to be transported first to Okotzk, thence by land to Kiachta, a distance of 1364 miles ; thence to Pekin, 760 miles more ; and after that to be conveyed to Japan, what a prodigi- ously advantageous trade might be carried on direct to Japan, which is about a fortnight or three weeks' sail from Kamtschatka ! It was now resolved, in consequence of the latitude given by the instruction of tlie Board of Admiralty, to run along the Kuriles, and to survey the eastern coasts of tlie Japanese islands, previous to returning homewards ; and Captain Gore gave orders for Jkfacao to be the place of rendezvous in case of se- paration. They coasted along the peninsula of Kamtschatka, with variable weather, and on the 12th, at six in the afternoon, they saw, from the mast-head, Cape iiopatka, the southernmost extremity of the penin- Bola. This point of land, which is a low fiat cape, formed a marked object in the geography of tne eastern coast of Asia, and by an accurate observation, and several good angles, they determined its precise situation to be in latitude 51 deg. min. and longi- tude 156 deg. 45 min. At the same time they saw too the first of the Kurile islands, called Shoomsha, and on the next day they saw the second, Paramou- •ir ; the latter is the largest of the Kuriles, subject to Russia ; but the gale increasing from the west, they were never able to approach it nearer than to observe its general aspect, which was very high land, almost entirely covered with snowj and to ascertain its situation, which was found to be 10 deg. west longi- tude from Lopatka, and its latitude 50 degrees 46 uiin. at the north, and 49 degrees 58 min. at the sonth end. ikPPBNDI^. 859 On the 14th and I5th, the wind blowhig steadily from Uie westward, they were obliged to stand to tlie louthward, and were consequently hindered from see- ing aov more of the Kurile islands. In the situation they then found themselves, they were almost sur- rounded by the supposed discoveries of former na- vigators. To the soutliward and south-west were placed in the French charts, a group of five islands, called the three Sisters, Zellaney, and Zunasher. They were about ten leagues, according to the same maps, to the westward of the land of De Gama ;' and an the Company's Land, Staten Island, and the famous land of Jesso, were all supposed to lie nearly in tlie same direction, this course was deemed to deserve the preference, and they hauled round to the west- wara, the wind having shifted to the north. A suc- cession of gales, however, and now and then a storm that reduced them to their courses, drove them too much to the southward, prevented them from falling in even with the southernmi^st of the Kurile islands, and obliged them at last to give up all furthei thoughts of discovery to the north of Japan. On the 22nd, the gale having abated, they let out the reefs of the topsails and made more sail. At noon they were in latitude 40 deg. 58 min., and longitude 148 deg. 17 min., and two small land birds being taken on board, plainly indicated that they could not be any great distance from the land ; they therefore hauled up to the west-north-west, in which direction the southernmost islands seen by Spanberg, and said to be inhabited by hairy men, lay at the distance of about fifty leagues. They saw several other signs of land ; but, on the 24th, the wind shifted to the north, and blew a fresh gale, so that they finally gave up all further search for islands to the north of Japan, and shaped their course west-south-west, for tlie north part of that island. On the 26th, at daybreak, they descried high land to the wtititward which proved to be Japan. The ! t if m I' I ill I if 9ik) APPRNOTX. country consisted of a double range of monntains ; it ahounded with wood, and had a pleasine variety of hills and dales. They saw the smoke of several towns, and many houses near the shore, in pleasant and cultivated situations. The^ stood off and on, Recording as the weather permitted them, till the 2dth in the afternoon, when they lost sight of tlie land, and from its breaking off so suddenly, they conjectured tliat what thev had before seen was k cluster of islands, lying on the main land of Japan. 1'he next day, they saw iand again, eleven leagues to the southward. *The coast appeared straight and unbroken ; towards the sea it was low, but rose gradually into hills of a moderate height, whose tops were tolerably even, and covered with wood. At nine o'clock, the wbid shifting to the south- ward, they tacked and stood off to the east, and soon after they saw a vessel close in with the land, standing along shore to the northward, and another in the otiing, coming down before the wind. Objects of any kind, belonging to a country so famous and yet so little known, excited a general curiosity, and every soul on board was upon deck in an instant, to gaze at them. The vessel to windward passed ahead of them at the distance of about half a mile. It would have been easy to have spoken with her ; but perceiving, by her manoouvres, that she was much frightened. Captain Gore was not willing to augment iier terrors, and thinking that they should have many better opportunities of communicating with the Japanese, suffered her to go off with >ut interrup- tion. Tliere appeared to be about six men on board, and, according to the best conjectures that could be formed, the vessel was abrut forty tons burden. She had but one mast, on which was hoisted a square sail, extended by a vard aloft, the braces of which worked forward. Half way down the sail came three pieces of black cloth, at equal distances from each other. T|^e vessel was higher &t each end than • APPENDIX. 361 In t1)A inidsliip, and from her appearance and form •he did not appear to be able to sail otherwise than large. Soon after the wind increased so mnch, that our navigators were reduced to their courses ; and the sea ran as high as any one on board ever remembered to have seen it. If the Japanese vessels are, as Keempfer describes them, open in the stem, it would not have been possible for those they saw to have survived the fury of the storm ; but as the appear- ance of the weather, all the preceding part of the day, foretold its coming, and one of the sloops had, Eiotwithstanding, stood far out to sea, it was con- cluded they were perfectly capable of bearing a gale of wind. Our navigators were blown off the land by this gale, but on the 30th they saw it again, at the dis- tance of about fifteen leagues, appearing in detached parts, but it could not be determined whether they were small islands, or parts of Japan. On the 1st of November, they saw a number of Japanese vessels close in with the land, several seem- ingly engaged in fishing, and others standing along shore. They discovered to the westward a remark- ably high mountain, with a round top, rbing far in- land. As this was the most remarkable hill on the coast, they wished to have settled its situation ex- actly; but only having had a single view, they were obliged to be contented with such accuracy as their circumstances would allow. Its latitude was reckoned to be 35 deg. 20 min. and its longitude 140 deg. 26 min. As the Dutch charts make the coast of Japan extend about ten leagues to the south-west of White Point (supposed to be the southernmost land then in sight^ our navigators stood ofi^ to the eastward, to weather the point. At midniffht they again tacked, expecting to fall in with the land to the southward, but were surprised to find, in the morning, that (j. I I 5;l U i< I I'. \ 303 APPBKDIX. during eight hours m which they supposed they bad made a course of nine leagues to the south- west, they had in realitv been carried eight leagues in a direction diametrically opposite. Whence ttiey calculated that the current had set to the north- east by north, at the rate of at least five miles an hour* On the 3d of November, they were again blown off the land by a heavy gale, and found themselves up» wards of fifty leagues off, which circumstance, toge- ther with the extraordinary effect of the currents they had experienced, the late season of the vear, the unsettled state of the weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the better, made Capt. Gore resolve to leave Japan altogether, and proceed on the voyage for China. On the 4th and 5th, our navigators conthiuing their course to the south-east, passed great quantities of pumice-stone. These stones appeared to have been thrown into the sea by eruptions of various dates, as many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite bare. On the 13th, they had a most violent gale from the northward. In the morn- ing of the 14th, the wind shifting to the north-west, brought with it fair weather ; but, though they were, at t^t time, nearly in the situation given to the island of San Juan, they saw no appearance of land. They continued to pass much pumice-stone ; indeed ^he prodigious quantities of that substance which floated in the sea, between Japan and the Bashee islands, seemed to indicate that some great volcanic convulsion must have happened in that part of the Pacific Ocean. On the 14th, they discovered two islands, and on the next day a third ; but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land without some danger, from the great surf that broke on the shore, kept on his course to the westward. The middle island is about five miles long ; the south point is a high barren hill, APPENDIX. 333 presenting an evident volcanic crater. The earth » rock, or sand, for it was not easy to distinguish of which its surface was composed, exhibited various colours, and a considerable part was conjectured to be sulphur, and some of the officers on board the Resolution thought they saw steam rising from the top of the hill. From these circumstances. Captain Gore gave it the name of Sulphur Island, A Ions narrow neck of land connects the hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into a circum- ference of three or four leagues, and is of moderate height. The north and south islands appeared to be single mountains of a considerable height. Sul- phur Island is in latitude 24 de^. 34 min., longitude 141 deg. 12 min. The north island in latitude 25 deg. 14 min., longitude 141 deg. 10 min. and the south island in latitude 24 deg. 22 min., and longi- tude 141 deg. 20 min. Hence our navigators proceeded for the Bashee Islands, hoping to procure at them such a supply of refreshments as would help to shorten their stay at Macao ; but Captain Qore, being guided by the opi- nions of Commodore aud Captain Wallis, as to the situation of these islands, which differ materially from Dampier's, they were foiled in their endeavours to find them, although, in the day time, the shipr spread two or three leagues from eacli other, and in the night, when under an easy sail. On the 27th, being in longitude 118 deg. 30 min., and having got to the westward of the Bashees, according to Mr. Byron's account, our navigators hauled their wind to the nortli-west, hoping to wea- ther the Prata shoals ; but at four in the morning of the 28th, the breakers were close under their lee ; at daylight they saw the island of Prata, and finding they coula not weather the shoal, ran to leeward of it. As they passed the south side, they saw two re- markable patches on the edge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. On the suuth-west side of th€ II ',■; ' . I'.i '■!■ V A n i dfi^ APPENDIX. reef, nnd near the south end of the island, they thoupfht they saw openings in the reefs which pro- mised safe anchorage. In the forenoon of the 29th, they passed several Chinese fisliing boats ; and the sea was covered with wreclcs of boats that Iiad been lost, as they conjec- tured, in the late boisterous weather. They were in latitude 22 deg. 1 min., having run 110 miles since tlie preceding noon. On the dOth, they ran along the J^ma Islands, and ffot a Chinese pilot on board. In obedience to the nstruction given to Captain Cook by the Admiralty, the captains now required of the officers and men of both ships to give up their journals, and what other papers they had in their possession relative to the voyage, which was cheerfully complied with ; and at nine o'clock in the evenhig of the following day, they anchored three leagues from Macao. Here, upon sending on shore to negotiate for sup- plies of provisions, &c. they first received intelli- genxae of the occurrences in Europe, during the pro- tracted period of their absence. On the 4th of De- cember, they stood into the Typa, and moored with the stream-anchor and cable to the westward. Captain King was sent up to Canton to expedite the supplies that were wanted, and experienced every possible assistance from the supercargoes and gentle- men of the Company's factory there. The purchase of the provisions and stores wanted was completed on the 26th, and the whole stock was sent do^vn on the following day, by a vessel which Captain Qore had engaged for the purpose. Twenty sea otter-skins were sold at Canton, by Captain King, for eight hundred dollars. At the ships a brisk trade was carried on in the same article, by both officers and seamen. The sea-otter skins every day rose in va)*'<'. and a few prime skins, which were clean and wt.. S reserved, were sold for one hundred and twenty ollars each. The whole amount of the value, in APPENDIX. 306 ■ ' '■ specie and goods, that was got for the furs in both snips, did not fall short of two thousand poun^ sterling, and it was generally supposed, that at least two-thirds of the quantity originally obtained from the Americans were spoiled or worn out, or had been given away or sold at Kamtschatka. In conse* quence hereof, the rage with which the seamen were possessed to return to Cook's River, and by another cargo of 3kins to make their fortunes, was, at one time, not far short of mutiny. The numerous voy- ages that have since been undertaken for the prose- cution of the trade here suggested, have rendered it familiar to the merchants both of Britain and Ame- rica : and, though it has not latterly been productive of advantages equal to those which were realized by the first aaventurers, is still a branch of commerce that is successfully pursued. The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for their sea-otter skins, produced a very whimsical change in the dress of the crews. On their arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged appearance both of the' younger officers and s(*amen ; almost the whole of their original stock of European clothes having been long worn out, or patched up with skins, or the various manufactures they had met with in the course of their discoveries. These were now again mixed and eked out with the gaudiest silks and cottons of China. On the 11th of January, two seamen belonging to the Resolution ran off with a six oared cutter, and were never after heard of. It was supposed that thev had been seduced by the prevailing notion of making a fortune by returning to the fur islands. On account of the war between England and Ame- ilea, with France and Spain as her allies, of which they received intelligence at Canton, they put them- selves hito the best posture of defence, the Resolu- tion mounting sixteen guns, and the Discovery ten* They had reason, however, to believe, from the gene- i» fi if > r ■ ■ » if ! X' -ii' ■•-*'*^-**»»*^,f« >»* 366 Al'PKMOIX. rosity of their enemies^ that these precautions ^lere superfluous; being iniormed that instructions had been found on board all the French ships of war captured in Europe, directing their commanders, in case of falling in with the ships that sailed under the command of Captain Cook, to suffer them to proceed without molestation ; and the same orders were also said to have been given by tbe American Congress to the vessels employed in their service. In return for these liberal concessions, Captain Gore resolved to refrain from availing himself of any opportunities of capture, and to preserve, throughout the remainder of the voyage, the strictest neutrality. On the I2th of February, 1780, our navigators got under sail from Macao ', on the 19th, they saw Pulo Sapata, and on the 20tn, descried PuTo Condore, and anchored in the harbour at the south-west end of the island. The town is situated at the east end, and here they procured eight buffaloes, with other refresh- ments. From the untractableness and prodigious strength of the buffaloes, it was both a tedious and difficult operation to get them on board. The method of conducting them was by passing ropes through their nostrils and round their horns; but, having been once enraged at the sight of our men. they became so furious that the^ sometimes broke the trees to which they were often under the necessity of being tied ; sometimes they tore asunder the car- tilage of the nostrils through which the ropes ran, and got loose. On. these occasions, all the exertions of the men to recover them would have been ineffectual without the assistance of some young boys, whom these animals would permit to approach them, and by whose little management their rage was soon appeased. A circumstance respecting these animals, which was thought no less singular than their gentle- ness, towards, and, as it should seem affection for, Uitle children, was, that they had not been twenty- foiir hours on board, before they became the tamest » ■•>•»,. APPENDIX. 367 of all creatures. Captain KiD|f kept two of tiiem, a male and a female, for a considerable time, which became great favourites with the sailors, and thinking that a breed of animals of such strength and size, some of them weighing when dressed, seven hundred pounds, would be a valuable acquisition, intended to have brought them witli him to England, but his intention was frustrated by an incurable hurt which one of them received at sea. Our navigators remained here till the 28th of Jan., when they unmoored and proceeded on tlieir home- ward voyage, passing through the Straits of Banca, and of Sunda, without any occurrence worthy of par- ticular remark. They saw two or three Dutch snips in the Straits of Sunda. They watered at Prince's Island, at the entrance of the Straits, and got a sup- ply of fowls and turtles there. From the time of their entering the Straits of Banca, they began to experience tlie powerful effects of the pestilential climate, and malignant putrid fevers, with obstinate coughs, and dysenteries^ pre- vailed amongst the crews, happily, however, without one fatal termination. On the 18th of February they left the Straits oi Sunda ; in the night between the 25th and 20th, they experienced a most violent storm, during which almost every sail they had bent was split to rags, and the next day they were obliged to bend their last suit oi sails, and to knot and splice the rigging, their cordage being all expended. On the 7th of April, they saw the land of Africa, and oa the 9th, they fell in with an English East India packet, that had left Table Bay three days before. Qn the evening of the 12th, they dropped anchor in False Bay, and the next mornibg stood into Simon^s Bay. Having completed their victualling, and furnished themselves with the necessar^^ supply of naval storei?, out navigators sailed out of the bay on the 9th of '• ■ ' i V- '!■ ■': ,t| ' : i '11 "■~ ■ ''CSf'' •fM 968 APPENDIX. May. On the 12th of June, they passed the equator for the fourth time during the voyage. On the l2th of August they made the western coast of Ireland, and, after a fruitless attempt to put into Port Gal- way, they were obliged, by strong soutiierly winds, to steer to the northward ; and, on the 26th of August, both ships came to an anchor at Stromness in the Orkneys, whence Captain King was dispatched by Captain Gore, to acquaint the Board of Admiralty with tlieir arrival. On the first of October, the ships arrived safe at tlie Nore, after an absence of fouf vears, two months, and twenty-two days. MILNEB & Co., LIMITED, PRINTERS, HALIFAX. ; .' v:iliilTi IF THB COTTAGE LIBRARY, PUBLISHED BT IMlXXillbTSX^ Sc Co., LONDON AND HALIFAZ. - ONE SHILLING EACH. iSf These Books are well Printed on good strong Paper, durably Bound in Best Cloth, embossed with Ink and Gold Letters, and are the Cheapest Works in the World / The Adventures oi Oliver Twist. By Charles Dickens. THOSE persons who think that our best norel- writers have penned their most excellent stories merely for the purpose of amusing and edifying their readers, are very much mistaken. '1, 'i ^i 4 2 COTTAGE librahy, Is. each. When any great and serious evil has afflicted the community, or a section of it, these preachers of equity and truth have exposed the enormity, in such a forcihle manner, to the great mass of the puhlic, that the effort has almost invariahly had the effect of lessening or removing the evil they have attacked hy the novel they have written with that intention. Such an object had Chables Dickens when he wrote this powerful story : — ** Oliver Twist." The Poor-Laws of our country were, before this tale was written, a disgrace to our boasted civili- zation. Irregularities were rife in every part of our poor-houses ; indignities rnd cruelties were practised by wholesale upon the unfortunate in- mates of these places, more particularly upon the youthful portion of them. No proper supervision was exercised over those in power in these retreats of the poor ; and there is no doubt that thou- sands of children left in the charge of those in authority there, have died from neglect, starva- tion, or cruelty. This state of affairs was known to Charles Dickens, and he became the worthy champion of the defenceless and insulted inmates in the worst conducted poor-houses in this country. By this excellent story of the life and adventures of Oliver Twist, he at once and for ever gave the death-blow to the monstrosities and cruelties which were practised by the old parochial au- thorities in tne days of yore. The character of Fagin, the Jew, the trainer of the youthful pick- pockets in the thieves' den, is well delineated. Bill Sykes, the brutal thief, is a very conspicuous personage in the story, who, in his jealous des- peration, murders his paramour ; his character is HLBS ipion the By ■es 01 ethe lelties lI au- [ter of pick- eated. jicuous jsdea- kCter is COTTAGE LIBRARY, Is. EACH. true to the life ; — the restlessness and miserable condition of his mind, shown in his wanderings after the murder, is one of the most pathetic de- scriptions of the power of conscience, even in the criminal, that was ever penned. The career of Nancy, his paramour, does not, in any degree, fall short of truthfulness in description, with any of the other characters. The steadfastness of her adherence to her paramour in all the varied scenes of his life, truly portrays the faithfulness of the female mind even in the wicked courses of life. The Dodger and Charley Bates are the young pickpockets — characters which have many repre- sentatives even at this day. The bombastic parish Beadle is a true type of what these notable per- sonages once were ; now their day is over, and a better state of things is to be found in our paro- chial laws. Ko man is able to usurp the tyranni- cal authority which these minions used cruelly to assume. Of Oliver Twisr himself, we cannot get a true insight into his character without a personal study of this well-written story, which IS now placed, in price at least, within the reach of the poorest person in the country. This story is complete. '' . • ■ , • ' ■• /' -. 1 'i-' '''-'3' t ^ 'M 11: mateBrseemmM f I COTTAGE LIBBARY. Is. EAOE. Sketches by Boz. B7 Charles Sickens. THESE skstches ars the earliest prodactions of the prolific pen of Chables Diokbns. They are and always willbe^ considered of a high order ; full of both humour and pathos ; they treat of scenes and characters ot the ''great World of London," where every kind of life, from the poorest to the richest, the most ignorant to the most intelligent and refined dwell. The scenes of saualor, vice, immorality and crime. High- life below stairs, snobbish gentility, religious cant, villanous hypocrisy, in fact, every kind of life, both virtuous and Vicious, that there is to be found, Mb. Chables Dickens has graphically sketched and portrayed with that faithfulness that he only could do. The excellent manner in which these sketches were first written heralded forth the prolific genius the author's mind would display in the future years. It is a pleasant thing, when a person has reached the '* height of popu- larity," to study his first efforts— note the pro- gress — discover errors renounced— style improved — mannerisms altered — and compare the first effort with the last. This volume is unabridged. p / I COTTAGE LIBRAEY, Is, EACH. CAPTAIN MAEETAT'S NOVELS, Jacob Falthfol. By Captain Uarryat. READERS of romance know full well the va- lue of the worka of this talented writer. Jacob Faithful is one of the author's best com- positions. It has gone through many editions, because of its humour and the style in which the adventures of the hero upholds national honour and military valour it will always be read with pleasure by all persons. Peter Simple. By Captain Marzyat. FOR genuine humour, startling adventures, and thrilling scenes, this story of the sea is unrivalled. Peter Simple is a character who starts life under very unfavourable circumstances ; he begins his adventurous career in the active days of the wars with France. His voyages are to all Earts of the known world. Simple is his name, ut his experience in the hard nautical service of his day makes him wise in many things. He gains promotion by the best of methods : his merit, and teaches the reader that perseverance and strict disciplino, though sometimes very severe, is the best way to promotion. This tale will be very useful to youthful readers, and will be read by them with the relish and interest with which they have read the famous '* Robinson Crusoe." I. ]■: I I ; :i I ! •ih 6 COTTAGE LIBRABT, IS. EACH. IQdslupman Easy. By Captain Uarryat. IT is sometimes both amusing and grieving to parents who have brought up sons to the best of their ability, both in good training and sound education, to find that one or more of them get stranee notions about the grand career they may have by going to sea ; their young imaginations depict a life on the ocean in the most glowing coh)urs — ^they see, in their young fancies, certain promotion to the highest positions in the service most speedily and sure, and their day-dreams are full of grand epaulets, and gold-laced caps either of midshipmen or captain, and of giving orders to the men when they command one of the largest vessels in the navy of our country. The ardour of their youthful fancies prevent them thinking that these honours are only to be won by ardu- ous, persistent, constant, "faithful service, and with the highest sterling ability that the closest application to the duties of a seafaring life needs. Just such a character was Midshipman Easy, the hero of this novel, and this story is full of lessons to the youth who is mad for the onerous life on the vast ocean. The fun and frolic practised by midshipmen upon each other, and the practical jokes, and deeds of daring they are called upon to perform, cannot fail to make this book a fa- vourite with the youth in his early days, — days 80 free from care and trouble that he fancies he can tie up his career and shape his circumstances in the same manner as he ties up and shapes a parcel of goods. This volume is the cheapest tnat is published. COTTAGE LIBRARY, Is. EACH. 7 The Zing's Own. By Captain Marryat. THIS tale takes its rise from the unfortunate mutiny of the seamen at the Nore, in the year 1797. The son of one of the deluded men who was hanged at the yard-arm of one of the ships, is the hero of the story. The imprinting of the marks on the arms of the seamen gives the hero the title of ** The Kino's Own ;" the mark of the broad-arrow, the king's mark, was pressed upon the arm of the child, and thus he became devoted for life to the king's service on the sea. The devotion shown to the child by the old sea- man who adopted him, brings out boldly the af- fection which is often shown even by the rough untutored hearts of our ** Jolly Jack Tars." To follow the career of the young hero from one po- sition to another in the service, and through his various adventures, is one of the most delightful and amusing pleasures which the reader will find in perusing this truly interesting tale. The in- heritance and fortune to which our hero is justly entitled is kept back from him by villany, but just when the villany is unmasked, and he is about to marry his old sweetheart, the miscreant poiiions him, and shoots himself at the same time ; his betrothed bride also dies of a broken heart. . . I . ! !i( :l 4 mmmmmmmm 8 COTTAGE LIBBAEY, Is. EACH. X T. S. AETHUKS NOYELS. T. S. ABTHUS as an Author. THE world is greatly indebted to such authors as T. S. Abthub. He may truly be styled one of the first of its social reformers, for he has written for the peoples' welfare, both morally, socially, and religiously. His stories always improve the reader, in the highest sense of the word. He has done more to strengthen the mo- rals and cultivate the religious faculties of his readers than a great many clever authors of the g resent day. Kone need fear the introducing of is books into the home circle ; in fact, they ought to be welcomed as the best aids to a good moral and religious home training, that can be obtain- ed. His efforts are always happy, lively, and in- teresting, with sound principles running through the whole of them. He has lived and laboured to leave the world better than he found it. Cast Adrift. A Story of New 7ork. THE most fastidious parents need not have the least fear of introducing the Works of T. S. Abthub into their families. They are full of in- structive moral lessons, and are written in a very attractive style. ** Cast Adrift" is a story of life in New York City. The heroine is found in the lowest state of society, and by virtuous behaviour in the midst of vice, wins her way into upper circles. GOTTAaE LIBRABT, Is. EACH. Anna Lee; or, the Uaideni WifOi and Mother. THIS beautiful novel is written in a truly natural strain ; it is not highly coloured with romantic tints, but its pictures of life are portray- ed with so vivid and striking a truthfulness, that the social ties of the domestic hearth are seen in all their pristine loveliness. Its high moral tone and virtuous teachings will enable it to win its way in the families of all classes of the commu- nity. It comes from the pen of one of the best American writers, T. S. Abthub, whose reputa- tion on both sides of the Atlantic, as a most ex- cellent, truthful story-teller, is universally ad- mitted. Sighted at Last. A Story of New ..^^ England Life. . THERE is a common proverb, ** Every dog has its day ;" by the hand of retribution with which Providence almost invariably lays hold upon the evil-doer, and punishes him severely, wnen he has persisted in his wicked courses ojf oppression and the exercise of tyranny upon the weak and defenceless. We see man]^ things that are wrong ''righted at last," and this charming story by T. S. Abthur is but another instance of the truth, that virtue and goodness will ulti- mately triumph, though the time of triumph may be long delayed* 1! Mil •: fi- ll 'I 10 • COTTAGE LIBRABYi Is. EACH. MRS. HOLMES' NOVELS. Urs. UAB7 JANE HOLMES as cm Author. MRS. MARY JANE HOLMES is a peculiar- ly fascinating writer ; one of the best that the creat continent of the United States of Ame- rica nas ever produced. Her books are invari- ably entertaining and amusing, for she owns the rarely to be found art of enlisting the sympathy of all classes of readers — she draws out the affec- tions of those who peruse her works towards the heroine or hero of every story which she has pen- ned, and she charmingly rivets the attention to every part of the career of the leading characters of each tale which her fertile genius has planned, and her prolific pen has forcefully, but truth- fully, put upon paper. Her works are very nu- merous — not one of which can be looked upon as the efforts of a novice, or one who does not un- derstand the failings, frailties, or virtues and ex- cellencies of every grade of human natrre. Her master mind has grasped the wants of the day, in presenting truth uucoloured, or depicted in that outrageously romantic style which is often inju- rious to all readers — more especially to the youth- ful mind which loves romance beyond or above the truth. She is not an author who lets her fancy rove into the unreal, or impossible, — but she tells her tales in homely phrase, with that domestic reality which never reaches the mind of the reader as a thing that is improbable ; but proves the genuineness of that proverb, namely : "Truth is steanqer than fiction!" COTTAGE LICRAKY, IS. EACH. Edna Browning. So full of the truthful genmne feeling and pathos is this tale of sincere attachment, that it is sure to win the attention and captivate the fancy of all who take it up. It is certain to gain the golden opinions of the lovers of unvarnished romance literature. Edith Lyle. ' THIS is a truly charming novel. One of the best that modern Amercian writers have produced. Every reader will be sure to be en- raptured by it. So true to nature, nothing over- drawn, or highly coloured is to be found in its characters. / ■ , • . . -.- . Ethelyn's Misfortune. • ' ' ^^ THIS domestic novel is entirely new. It will be read with pleasure and profit by all who peruse it. The story shows the trials and troubles of married life where there is no affinity of tasto and in style of living. 'Lena Bivers. THIS book has established the reputation of the author, as one of the best American writers of the present day. It ought to be in the possession of every lover of good novels, because of the insight it gives into genuine American life. The humour and pathos contained therein will always makeitafavouritei especially with youth- ful readers. ^ III 12 COTTAGE LIBKAET, Is. EACH. M' Marian Grey. ARIAN GRE7 is a chaste, highly-finished , story in the character of a domestic novel. Virtue and modesty are portrayed by Mrs. Holmes to great advantage, and it merits a place in every young woman's library in cottage and mansion. Hilly Sear. THIS story is one of great interest ; It traces the history of a youDg girl whose parenti^e is hid in mystery at the commencement of li&. Her career is traced with care, and as the circum- stances of daily life are more developed, she be- comes the heroine of this well-told tale. She is truly beloved by a crippled youth who never till his death reveals the strength of his attachment for Mildred, who is more frequently known by the pet name of Milly. As time aavances Mil- ly's heauty becomes rauiant and glowing, and wins the affection of Lawranca Thornton — and he loves her truly, but circumstances over which they have no control, separate the lovers, who, as often is the case with true love, become more attached as adverse circumstances rise before thnm to intercept their heart-felt esteem for each other. All these things are traced by Mrs. Holmes, as only she knows how, in continuous and consecu- tive order, with that lively interest which gives Sleasure to all who peruse her stories. I(n the end [iUy becomesthedearwifeof LawrenceThornton. OOTTAOE LIBBABT, Is. SAOn. If ftaeenia Eetherton. THIS story certainly is ont of the best that the pen of this talented American Mrhter has ever produced. It is quite full of those domestic scenes of Ticissitude and misfortune which brings out the sterling character of the heroine in the com- mencement of the tale, and clothes the whole nar- rative with a fascinating interest. The introduc- tion of many humorous characters to be found in American society make it increasingly attract! vci and add to the pleasure to bo found in the inno- cent comicalities and oddities with which the story abounds. Those readers who wish to peruse a love-story without very extravag