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33 W^ST :■'■^^H STRUT

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) 873-4503

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JTisszsa

UNITED STT^TES CO-AST SXJB,VEY.

BENJAMIN I'EIKCE, Supciiuteudeut.

PACIFIC COAST.

COAST PILOT

CALIFORNIA, OREGON,

AND

WASHINGTON TEREITOKY.

GEORQE DAVIDSON,

ASSISTANT COAST S l' II V K Y .

1869.

WASHINGTON:

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
1869.

Y\LO

'Jon

INTriODrCTORY.

IJ.'fon. tl... iu-quisition of Califon.ia by tl... T^nit,.,l Sfnfos, rmnpan.tivrly liuio
Avns known of Uw l.,vdro;.n.,,l,y and ^-vonraphy of its cast, rxrrpt l,v th,- f.nv
i.av,i,atorstn.<lin;.alono- its soa board, or the daiiny otter hunter, laniiliar uith
every eove, roek, and lieadhiiul.

In th.' loliowin- i)a-es it is proposed to state all that is known at the present

tune of th,. Paeilic coast of the Unite.l States, Iron, the sontluMn bo.n.darv of

Cahfornia, in latitude ;!i»o ;}- to the northern boun.hny of Washinj^ton Territorv

la latitude MP, ,.n.braeinj,^ : eean shore-line of over three thous 1 one hun'

dml and twenty n.iles, divided as tbllows: Calilbrnia, inebnlin. the ish.n.l of

Santa I5urbara Channel, one thousand and ninety-seven n.iles; O.e-on, two hun

dred and eij-hty-tive n.iles; Wasl.i,.oton T.Tritory, im-lndin;,- isl Is in Washi,...-.

ton Sound and shores of ruf-et Sound, o,.e tho.isan.l sev,-n hund.vd and thirtv-
eijjht iniies.

AN'hatever has .,ot eon.e under our own eritieism will be taken fro..i the p.ib-
lished I'eports and maps of the Coast Survey.

The nai.ies adoj.ted will be those n.ost ivliable.

Uhe.e any known ehano-es have taken plaeethev will be stated

AVheie any position is «ive,. to the nearest ,..i,..Ue o..ly, it has been taken
Iron, the latest chart of the Coast Survey.

The lou,,!(,uh'. is reckoi.cd west fro.n rj.-eenwich. Tables and exaTn,.les -n-e
lutroducedtoshowthcnannerof predh-tinf,- the tin.es a..d height of hi^h a„,l
low waters at San Francis<'o and other haibois.

t<omuUn,iH are given for the mean of the lower low waters.

Jlmriiufs are niaHiU'tic.

7>/.v^f«rr.v are exp.-essed in -oofrraphical (nautical) miles

J>c>.'nj>,ions of ln,ht-housc.,foo-heUs, Ouoys, ct.., arc- tVon. the p,.blished ..otices
ot the t.ight-house IJoard.

Uiig

COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA.

(W flic wost'Tii const, iit incjiiil;!!' tlistiiiin's, (hen' jippciirs to 1m> ii liiiiti*' of

siihiiiiii'inc iiioinitiiJiis, wliosc siiinniits, i

isllij;' o(

ciisioinillv iiltoxc llic \v;ilci', foiiii

islands, and, ni-ariny; ilii- snrlat'i' at otlr-r points, I'oini dan;;rioiis and oxtiMisive
banks.

One of these last is a ltanl< very similar to tlie ("oifes I>ank,*ainl, jjossihly, an
pxtonsion <>r it to llie southeastward of tlie hitter, and ih'si^iiiated tiie •• liaiieo
Cortes" on tin' Freiieh chart Xo. lilltT. L'pon the latest I'.iitish Adniiiaily charts
it is not noted. The shoalest part of the hank has ten lathonis npon it in three
spots situated lietween latitudes :\\o X',' and .IP l.'!', and lon;.'itudes IIS^ II' and
1 liSO r»2', hcinji nearly southeast hy south quartei' south, tit'ty miles from the IJishop
Jiock. IJut as nioi'c detailed examinations may diseitver such dan;;ers as were
found ujton the orij;inal Cortes IJan'., it will he well tor na\ i.natois to avoid pass-
iuf"' over the shoalest localities.

It lies in the direct route of the steamships lunninii' between San I'rancisco
and ^lexical! ptuts and I'anama, .ind, as laid down, is very extensive, the area
within the twenty fathom line bein;; thi'ce thousand scjuare miles, an<l within the
flftoeii-fathom line about one thousand live hundred sipiare miles. The thirty-
fathom li' icxteiids nearly ten miles outside the t wenty fathom line; wiiilst the
deejM'st soundings between the ban!; and the ba\ of Toclos Santos aie only forty
fathoms.

l'pon the Si)anish chart of lS(i.? of this coast the shoal is evidently laid down
too far to the westward, and it is probable the same error nniy exist in the Fii'in-li
chart, for in December IStJO, no sountlinys were obtaiiu'd upon it with two hun-
dred fathoms of line. Throujuh the enterprise of Captain ICldrid^ic, ,i;;ent td" the
I'acitic ^fail ('ompany, and in concert with Cajitain Lapid<;<', of the steamer (bihlen
(late, on the voyaji*' from San Kranciseo to Tanama we lan a line of voundin;;s
thirty miles in lenjith across the fiiven locality. The weather was cloudranil ih)
observations «'ould be obtained alter leavinj; San I'lancisco ; 1 ut the depijrture of
the vessel was obtained from the western point ot the island of San .Miguel, and
a course laid a«'ross the assigned )»osition of ten tal horn sounding;

w sea was

smooth so that w»' leadily delected the ;;round swell on the cdn'e of the Cortes
Shoal, an<l when abri'ast of the •> IJanco Cortes" also fell a uiound swell for a
short time, but found no bottom, as above stated. The western ed;;e of the bank
may drop otf nunc ((uickly than is indicated by the chart, and the vessel may have
been set oil" shore by a current fnun the Santa iiarbara <'hannel. We subse-
quently had no observations for i>osition for some da.\s.

This bnidv, witii the islands northward, an*l the islands an<l rocks southward,
iifVords another evidence of a submarim* ran;;e parallel with the coast nnaintains.

I'or ilcNrrijitiuii of till' ('mil's llniili sec \Miic 'i7.

COAST IMLOT OK ('AI-IK()I!NI A.

LOS COK'ONADOS.

TIiOH<' isliiiidH Ih'Iu!!"' to l\ri'\i('o, lie iilioiit s«'V«'ii iiiilcM off tlic coasf, jiikI
iK'iiily cii^lit miles soiilli of tlir boniKlary iK'twccii Mcxicit iiiul tlic ('iiitrd Stiitcs.

Tlif.v ronri ii ^roiip ot° lii;;li, hold, iiiid iiltnipt rorks iinil isli-ts, of wliicli tlin
liir^icst is lil'tt'cn iiiih'S south hy cast fVoiii I'oiiit Loiiin, iihoni oiw iiiitl (iv«'fi;,'hlhs
mile ill length hy one third of a mile in hreadth, and lyin,t; in a northwest and
southeast direction. It is a wedjyeshaped mass, lisiii;;' to ahout live hiiiKlred and
seventy live feet ahove the sea, the siirtaee haviii}-- some earth upon it, hut entirely
d<'stitute of trees. A few small shruhs exist, and duriiij'' the rainy season the soil
is covered with j^rass, and a avvnt almndaiice of j;audily-colored wild tlowers
showiu;*' in patches of oraujrc, pui'ide, and yellow, when seen from the ",vatcr.
J)urin;i' the dry season «'vcrythin;j,' is withered, and the islet presents a stcrilti
appearance. Cacti and other plants liiow amoii;n- tlie rocks.

Tiicrc is an a!ich(»raj;'e about oue-((uarter of a mile to the eastward of tho
islet, and hut one laiidin.n' jilace; even there the ascent is dilliciilt for lifty feet,
and Ihcncc easy to the crest, about half a mile distant.

The j;('oj;raphical position of the hiyhest point, as dotcrinincd by the Coast
Survey, is:

TiOtitude ;{2 2;{ 40 north

Lonjiitude

117 i;{ LM west.

Or, in time

On the west and iiortliwest sides of the islet, aiul about half a mile distant,
lie two smaller ones, or ratiier two masses of rocks about titty feet hijjjh, ami des-
titute of vc^'ctation. Tliey arc a favorite reso't for the eiiorimms sea t'lephaiits.
Excellent anchoiaye is saitl to \w found in the vicinity. The smaller of the two
]U'omiiiciit islets is about half a mile in leiiji'th, and lies north oS^ west from
the larjicr, distant two and three-eiyhths miles. It is a hu;;e, barren rock, with
Aery sharp summit.

In coininj^- from the south, this group atVords a pood mark for niakinj;' San
Diefjo, although before beinj? uj) with them, Point Loma shows distinctly.

Lo.s Coronados were discovered by .Juan l{odrijiue/, Cabrillo in l.TlL*, and
named by Viscaino in KJtti', in honor of Francisco Ctuonado, j;overnor of the
province of Xalisco. under Cortes. .

PACIFIC COAST OF THE UNITFD STATES.

CAMFOKNIA.

Tlic iiiiiiic Cjiliroiiiiii is (irsf round in tlic wortlilcss it»in;iii(«- »* l.as Scr^iiis of
Ks))liiii<liiiii," tlir son of Annnlis of (iiinl. written In (liinia Onion*-/. il<> Montiilvo,
the tninsliilor of the Aininlis. It was tiist ininlnl in l.'ilO, with <-<litions in I'tl'.i,
l.'c'l, l.VJ.'i, l."»J(;, (two,) I."i7."», l."»S7, nn«l the riTcnt it-print of IS.'d.*

Tin- niinif a|»|M'iirs in nnnn-rons jiassiifjcs, of wliicli the lollowiny arc i^ivcn :

" Know tliat, on the ri;,'lit liantl of the inilics, very ni-ar to tlic Tfircsliial
Paradise, tlicrc is an island called < 'alilornia, wliidi was peopled with hlaek women,
wit hold any men ainony them, because they were aceuslomed to live alter the
i'ashion of Amazons.''

'' In this island called ('..Mlornia ai'c many (iritlins, on acconnt ol' tlic
^rcat savayxMiess oC the country, anil the ininu'iise quantity of wild j;ame found
tlioro."

"is'ow, in the time that those ;^reat im-n <»f the l*a;;aiis sailed |aj;ainst Con-
staiitinoi»le| with those yreat llects of winch I have told you, there reigned in
this land of California a (jueen, large of 'lody, very beautiful, in the jtrime of her
years," iS;c., iK:e.

Tlu! name Califoiiiia next o»'cnrs in the memoirs of the coiM|uistadoi', IJcrnal
Diaz del Castillo, who served with Coitcs in the contjuest of .Mexico, lie writes
that "Cortes a;;ain set sail trom Santa Cruz and discovered the coast of Cali
Ibrnia.' Here Cortes remained for some time, disheartened at tlie want of success
of his various expeditions. The viceroy, Mendoza, despatched a vessel under the
connnand of Ulloa with letters to Cortes. " L'lloa had a most fav(»rabie vovayc,
and soon arrived in the harbor where Cortes lay at anchor. The letters of his
wife and those of his children, and of tlu^ viceroy, had so much ell'eet ui»on him that
lie }iave the command of his vessel to Clloa, embarUed for Acapulco, and, when
he had arrived here, he hastened to Quaidinahuac, where his wife icsided.
* • * Shortly after, also, the trooi)s arrived wliich had been left behind in Cali
lornia."

After a lew month.s' repose Corti's sent out a more considerable expedition,
under command of Ulloa. "This armament left the harbor de la ^N'atividad in the
month of June of one thousand live hundred and thirty, and so many years — I
foryet the exact year."'

The California referred to above is the peiunsula of that nann-, j^HMU'rally

*Tlic riill (itlcof tlif liook is " Las Srr;;ii,s di'l SIcy I'lslorziido Calialt'in llsidaiidiaii lii.jn del
excoloiitc re Amaili.s df (Janla."

8 COAST IMLOl OI' CAMFOKNIA.

known iis Lower riililoiniii. iiinl tlu' diilc l.").!.!. Tlicy .'iro the only times in wliieli
Diii/. nse.s tlie nsinie. ((';i|). ('( '.)

In I.VS'J l-'iiineiseo tie riloa ileterniiiieil Lower Cnlilornia to bo n poninsiilii.
Tliis liiet n|i|teiirs to liave been siiliseqnently l'or;;otten, tor it was ealletl Has
Cai'olinas, in honor of Cliailes II of Spain.

Tlie name California was ;;railiially nsetl to designate the region from the Gulf
of California to tin- ni.vtiiieal "Straits of Aiiian."

The et)nntr.v was ealled New Albion by Sir Kraneis Drake in ir»70.

In recent times the region n<»rth of San Diego was ealled Altu California.

From the southern boundaiy, in latitude .51.'^ ,'H,", longitude 117° 0(i', to Point
Argueilo, in latitude M'^ M', longitude ll,'(l° -W, the coast runs west-northwest
two hundred and twenty-live miles; from Point Argiiello to Cape .Mendocino, in
latitude -lOO L'.V, longitude l-V^ --', northwest the hundred and twenty five mih's;
Innn Cape Mendocino t(» Cai)e Flattery, in latitude 48° 23', longitude ll'-io -li',
niu'th-northwest four hundred and eighty miles.

The iiiiiiiiiiiinit inai'king the western initial jioint of the is'Mindary between
Mexico and the I'uited States is on the table blulf rising from the low land south
of San Diego T.ay. It is an obelisk of white marble, aliout twenty feet in height,
resting upon a pe(h stal. It stands near the edge of the blulV, about two hundred
yards from the .sea-sluuv, aiul i.s plainly visible from the water. Its ge(»graphical
|»osition, as del'-rmined by the Citast Survey, is:

Latitude :V2 M ."iS. Ul north.

Longitude 117 ()(> 1 l.lL' west.

h. in. K.
Or, in tinu' 7 48 l,'-L74.

From the boundary the coast is low and Hat, running n(»rth by west for about
seven miles, thence curving gradually westward until it i.s nearly east and west
at the entrance of San Diego IJay. The interior of the country is marked by high
numntains.

roiM" LOMA.

This is th(! southern part of the western boundarj- of San Diego Bay, ami the
termination of a remarkable narrow sjuu' of coarse, (irumbling sandstone, which
rises .south of Puerto FaLso, or False I?ay, and west of the town of San Diego, to
the height (»f three hundred feet, and after stretching south for abcmt five and a
half niih'S, gradually increasing in height to four hundred and tifty-seven feet,
terminates very abruptly. It is covered with coar.se grass, cacti, wild .sage, aiul
low bushes.

I'Ol.NT LOMA LIUIIT-IIOITSK.

This lu'imary .sea-coast light is less than half a mile from the southern eml of
the point, and situated ujton its highest i»art, four hundred and twenty-two feet

■;»

>««<nMMWti(%<)>

.11 \ I \ ^ „|...,. I,,., I,.

Vi..w -^iLmiii; l,,ili,.l I',. ml ..1 |i I.ir ...•i.v,.., \\„- 1 1 Si , .hi, I M.si,.,,

\m'S% I'I I. ..III. I |.|.,ini|M S l: |,v .S I '.l|i|,,;|.s

1.1. II,,.
i'>.l..iuin

COAST PILOT OV CALirOUNIA.

alxAO liifih Avator. TIic buildiiij; consists of a stone (l\\«'Ilins of one and a half
stories, witli a 1 w tower of i»lastere<l l»riek risiiif;' from the center sntliciently hij;ii
to phice tlie fo(!al phme of tlie ii;;ht four liiindred and ninety-two feet above tiie
sea. Tlie li;;iit is n Ji.rol irliite I'ujht of tlie tliird onh-r of Fiesnel, exliihited (since

nih

!.->, l.>

i) fi

ilk

ates til

•nti

and

sunset to sunri
clear weatlier sliould l»e visible —

rroni a lieij;iit of 10 feet above thc^ sea, at a distance of L'!> miles.
From a heijjht of 1M( feet above the, sea, at a distance of '<W\ miles.
From a lieinhi of .')(» feet above the sea, at a distance of .'51.7 miles.
The }j:eoij;rai)hical position of the li;;ht, as yiven by the Coast Survey, is:

Latitude .'5-' W l.J.O ncuth.

Longitude 117 12 I'L'.O west.

h. m. n.

Or, in time 7 IS 4!>..~».

Ma^fuetic variation, 1-"^ 20 east, in April l.S,")!, with a yearly increase of T.

From the li;>ht-house station the islands of Santa Catalina, seventy miles dis-
tant, and San Clemente, lifty-eight miles distant, are distinctly visible in clear
weather.

Tlie Enjilish Admiralty Chart No. 'J Mil, with correcti(His to ^March, 1S(J."), has
the I'oint Loma li;j;ht erroneously i)laced on False Point, about seven miles north-
ward of its true position at the entrance to False Pay.

SAX DIEGO HAY.

Next to that of San Francisco, no harbor on the Pacific coast of the United
States aitproximates in excellence the bay of San Diego, it is readily distin-
}j;uished, easily ai»i>roaclied, and a depth of twenty-two feet can be carried over
the bar, which is three (piarters of a mile east of the southern extremity of Point
Loma, and between it and the tail of the Zuniga shoal. Tlie bar is about six hun-
dred and tifty yards across from the outer to the inner tive-fathom lines.

Vessels cominji' from the northwest make the ridge of Point Loma as a long,
flat-topjied islaiul, when about twenty-live miles distant. This appearance is occa-
sioned by till' bay to the southwest, l)y the low land to the northeast, and by the
Puerto Falso at the north.

A thick lield of kelp lies along the western shore of Point Loma, the inner
edge being about one mile olV shore, and having a iueadth of half a mile. The
outer edge marks the line where the depth of water suddenly changes from tw«'iity
to tell fathoms. The tield commences otV the bar at tiie entrance to False Pay,
and stretches so.ithward two and three-quarters miles south of Point Loma.
^larim-rs a]iproachiiig tht^ south end of Loma, along the outer t <lge of the k«'I|»,
should pass through a partial break in it, and when the point beais northeast by
vn-^, distant one and a half miles, keep along the northern edge of the kelp in fcuir
and u half fathoms, and about half a mile from the point.
2»

COAST I'lLOT OF CALIFOJJNIA.

As soon iis the iHtiiit is jiiisscil, a \ni\}i, low beach of shingle is opened,
niakinj; out from the east side of the point ami forming a natural breakwater,
formerly called Tunta dc Guiranas* by the Spaniards, but now designated as lijil-
hist Point.

Kound up gradually until T5allast Toint is brought in range with the eastern-
most house of 3ia Tlaya, (distant one mile from Hallast I'oiut and on the same side
of the bay,) and be careful not to o|»en more of the village, as the shoal (tailed
Harros de Zunigat stretches scmth from the <tast side »tt the entrance, parallel to
tlie ridge of Point Loma, and distant only three-cpmrters of a mile fnmi it. Be-
tween Point Loma and this slioal runs the channel, which is less than half a milo
wide within the three-fathom lines. With the least swell the breakers show tiio
]>osition and extent of the shoal, and at the lowest tides ])art of it is bare. It has
Ix'cn said that a rock, having but live or six feet of water upon it, lies in the chan-
nel; its ]»osition being marked by a patch of kelp, which is, however, torn away in
heavy weather. The j)il(tt-boat Fanny reporte<l having struck on it in 1S"»!, Imt
the examinations of the Coast Survey have developed no such danger, and the
report has been generally discredited.

During the summer keep as close to l*oiiit Lomi as the draught of the vessel
will permit, and lie on the wind up to ISallast Point, oil' which lour iathoms can
be carried within a ship's length, with ten fathoms in mid-channel, and a very
strong current on the ebb and tlood tides; the former setting over the Zuuiga
shoal. After passing Ballast Point steer for La Playa, and anchor anywhere in
from tour to ten fathoms, with good holding ground. Inside the point, and about
two hundred ami lifty yards north by w .t from it, is a shoal having only twelve feet
water upon it, in a line from iJallast Point to the westernmost house at La Playa.
It is a (piarter of a mile h»ng. The shoals on the starboard hand, after entering,
are plainly in sight, excejit at very high water. The channel, however, is buoyed,
and cannot be missed. From La Playa to New San Diego, four miles distant, the
channel curves to the right and contracts, but about six fathimis water nmy be
carried that far. A mile or two beyond the town the bay becomes shoal and tilled
with tlats, yet a very nsirrow three-lathom channel runs (ilose along the eastern
shore, nearly to the head of the bay.

Coming irom the south, run for the j'xtreme end of Point Loma until Ballast
J'oint and La Playa are in lange, as betVu'e, and tbllow the foregoing directions.

When inside the harbor vessels are perfectly safe, but during very heavy
southerly weather the kelp is said to drive in such nnisses as to make vessels drag
their anchors. "We have never kn(twn such a case, and doubt if a vessel with good
grtmnd tackle and propev attention wouhl snlVer from this cause. Certaiidy there
is not reach enough for the wind to raise a swell, and the holding-ground is excel-
lent. In heavv southeast weather the sea breaks over Ballast Point.

* Or l^uitiv do los (iiiiJiUTos.

tNninoil by Visi'iiiiio in Ui'it). Don O.isiiur do Zmiiga, Count de Slonteroy, (lisi)tituliud the
oxpodition.

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA.

TIDES AT SAN DIEOO.

Cronoral remarks upon the nature of the tides will be given when (liseussiuf;
the tiih's at San Fiaiiciseo.

The eorrected establishment or n'.i'in interval between the time of the moon's
transit and the time of hi<;li water at La Playa is *Mi. 'ASm. The mean lise and
fall of tich's is .'5.7 feet, of spriiif,' tides "i.O feet, and of neap tides 2.3 feet; the
mean duration of the flood is (»A. 2.")/h.; of the ebb, (»/<. ()»«.; and of the stand (»/(.
[U)m. The avc^rajit! ditterence between the corrected estiiblishinciit of the a. m.
and p. III. tides of the same day is l/(. 2()m. for hif>h water, and lA. iitn. for low
water. The ditf.'rences, when the moon's declination is greatest, are 'Jli. 4m. and
l/(. '.Win. re.spectively. The averaj;'e diH'erence in the height of these two tides is 1.5
feet for the high waters and 2.1 feet for the low waters. When the moon's decli-
nation is greatest, those dilferenc<'s are 2.2 feet and .'J.O feet, respecti\ely. The
average ditVerence of the higher high and lower low waters of the same day is ."»..j
feet, and when the moon's declination is greatest, (».;» feet. The higher high tide in
the twenty-four hours occurs about !>//. 1(>»». after the moon's upjier transit, (south-
ing,) when the moon's declination is north, and about .'5/). H\m. before when south.
The lower of the low water.s occurs about seven and a (piarter hours after the higher
high tide.

The greatest ob.served difference between two low waters of one day Ava.s 4.2
feet, and the greatest difference between the higher high and lower low waters of
one day, 8.8 feet.

The two tides of the same day are generidly unequal in proportion to the
moon's declination. The time and height can be obtained approximately from the
following table:

Moon's upper iiiciidinu i)a.ssji;;o.

MuoiiH lowiT luci'iilinii paHWigf.

Moon's ilcoUnation.

nigh ^^

•ator.

Low water.

High water.

Low water.

luti'ival.

Uiifilit.

liitcival.

lt('i!;lit.

Iiilnval.

Uuislit.

Interval.

Heigllt.

Groatest north

//. .V.

« .->;t

■J •>!

in ai

iWt.
r>. ti

J.!)

;i.7

ir. M.

ti> ifi

1,-) 4(1

Feet.

—0.3

0.7

2.1

If. jr.

10 -j;)

Feet.
H.7
4.1)

n. 31.

14 M
l.'i 40
Hi l(i

Feet.
•J. 1

0.7

—0.3

The interval is to be adth'd to the time of the moon's meridian pas.sagetogive
the time of high or low water. The time of the moon's upper meridian pas.sago
is given in the almanac, and the time of its h)wer meridian passage is the middle
between two successive upper passages. The heights are given in feet and tenths,
and show the rise above the level of the average of the lowest low waters ; to which
level the soundings on the chart are given.

Spring Tides, — At the full and change of the moon the high waters wil' be
0.7 foot higher than the above, and the low waters 0.7 foot lower.

12 COAST riLOT or California.

iS>«/) Tides. — At tlio inor,.i's first iuid last quarters tlio liij-li waters will bt' 0.7
foot lower, and the low waters will not fall as low by 0,7 foot.

The existence of a bar at the entrance of this port was discovered by Van-
couver in 170.'5, and in cnticisin}> a plan of the harbor, piildished by Dalryniple in
ITSL', he remarks: "This plan, in point of correctness, is justly entitled to nmch
])raise, but was yet ca])able, as far as came under my observation, of the followiu}^
little imi)rovements : the scale rei)resenting tive nautical miles should only sub-
tend three miles and a half; the shoals of Barros de Zooni^^a, though well ])laeed,
instead of being two distinct shoals ought to have beeu one entire shoal, stretch-
ing something further to the northwest and southeast than is therein represented ;
and the soundings between IJarros de Zooniga and the land of Ponta de la Loma,
(which is omitted,) are in no part, from the south extremity of the former dire<tly
across to the latter, nu)re than four fathoms at high water, aiid form a narrow bar
from the shore to the shoal, gradually deei»ening as well on the inside as on the
outside of the bar, with a regular increase in niid-channel, from tive, close to the
shore, to ten fathoms between the two low points that form the entrance to the
port"— (Vol. U, page 47;{.)

As the nu'an rise and fall of spring tides is five feet, and of neaj* tides about
two and a half, A'aiieouver's and the recent examinations of the Coast Survey con-
tiriu each other, and tend to show that the depth has remained the same for the
last sixty-three years.

The ])rimary astronomical station of the Coast Survey is on the round-toi)ped
hill, one humlred and ninety-four ft et high, and a quarter of a mile west-south-
west of La IMaya.

Its geographical position is:

O ' "

Latitude 32 41 57.0 north.

Long'tude 117 i;j Uli west.

h. m. n.

Or, in time 7 48 o.'J.."*.

The eastern side of the entrance to San Diego Bay is low and Hat, covered
with thick bushes and grass. It is called "The Island," although a lu'iiinsula, be-
ing very low and narrow towards the head of the bay. On Uallast I'oint, at the
base of the Point Loma ridge, are visible the ruins of the old Spanish fortilica-
ti»)ns, &e.

Fntni Ballast Point the bay runs about north for a mile and a half; thenco
curves gra<lually to the eastward for three miles to New San Diego ; thence ti» the
head of the bay, southeast, seven miles. The average width of the bay after i)a.ss-
ing La Playa is a mile and a half, but at New San Diego, after contracting to a
tritle over half a mile, it again exjyands to about a mile and a half, with low
shores and extensive marshes ;ind tiats. ]\Iany years since tiie San Diego Hiver
changed its course during a freshet, and emptied into San Diego Bay instead of
IMierto Valso to the northwest. The result was a rapid tilling in of the bay ojipo-
site the old town of San Diego. An ap])ropriation was made by Congress to turn

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOJ5XIA.

the <'lianii('l of tlio rivor to its ori^jiiial bod. This was done a few yonrs ago, hut
tlic woiks have not jnovcd of siiniciciit strcnjitli. Tlic livcr (lows into Sau JJit'j>o
J5ay, Avliicli is rc] (resented as slioalinf;' at tliat point.

The jiU'iit diawbaeiv in San I)ie;;o I'.a.v is tlie want of fresli water, whieli has
to l»e bronj-ht from the river. An etfort was made in l.s.")l to obtain a snpply at
La riaya by sinkin},' an artesian well, bnt atter boiinj; six linncbed and thirty-tivo
feet the attempt was aban(h>ned. A simihir attem|>t, witii liiie residts, was made
at >»'ew Town, botli eontirminfi' the i)reviously exjiressed opinion of >;•('( do j;ists.
The same amount of money would liave brouj^Iit it in earl lien pipes from the
river. During" the lonj>' (by season tlie river loses itself in the sand, ami the inhab-
itants arc eomiM'lled to dijn' in its bed to obtain their supplies. Fresh provisions
are icadily ))roeured W're.

When fishery assunu's a praetieal shaju' on this coast the harbor of San Dio^ro
■will b«'eome a i)ositi(tn of im])()rtan('e. Already several small companies are en-
ga^icd in the whalin<>' business. The waters in this vicinity abound with the "Cal-
iforina (ireys," which are very troublesome to deal with, unless the bomb-lance is
used in killiu"' them.

Communication with San Francisco and the northern or windward jMuts is
inaintaim>d every week by steamer, and by rcfjular lines of sailin;-- vessels.

San J)iej>o l>ay was discovered by Juan Kodrij^ucz Cabrillo, a I'ortn;;nese in
the service of Spain, in Septcmlter 1.142; called Port San Mi<;uel, ami jdac-ed by
him in latitude ;>P lid' north, showin}^' the iiii|»erfection of tiie instruments and
the modes of observing"' in those days, lie fouud jjireat numliers of Indians here,
who received him hospitably, but with caution. It received its present name fiom
Sebastian Vizcaino, who surveyed it in Novembei' KiOL'. In bis tinu' there existed
a forest of tall, straij^ht oak and other trees borderinj;' the nortliwest side of the
bay. This for<'st was said to be three Iea{;ues in lcn;ith and half a Iea;:iie in
breadth, and that to the northwest of it was a j;'ood harbor, iu)w known as Puerto
Falso.

La Perouse (in 1787) ftives a coi)y of an Enjulish niaj) of San l)ie<;(», of 17S2,
(T)alryni])le's,) on which no nanu' is assijiiied to tlie Ziinijia Shoal, but the shoal
inside Pallast Poin<^ and under the eastern shore is called " Shoal of Zunij;a."
Mallast Point is called " Point (Juisarros," and Point Loma, " Hill Point."

At the north end of the ridf;'e of Point Loma is an extensive shoal bay called
Puerto Falso, or False P>ay. Tin; bar at its entrance lies north by west half
Avest, distant five and a half miles from the .southern extrennty of Point Loma ;
and liavin}>' but three feet of water, it can be crossed oidy in the smoothest
Aveather. The entrance Just inside the line of heavy bieakers is about a (pnirter
of a mile in width, but rapidly contracts to less than an ei<;hth. The northern
]»oint of this bay is alumt two miles in len};th, very narrow, and covered with low
sand dinu's.

To the north and west of this the shore is compact and unbroken, except by

COAST PILOT OF CAUKOnXlA.

the valloys of San Luis Key and San Juan Capiatrano. TluMvators ott' this Htrotch
of tlu! coast Avt're t'allo<l by Vizcaino tlic IJay of Santa Catalina.

The hitcst cliart of San Diego 15ay is tliat acconijianying the ]{cport of the
Sui)erinten<U'nt of the Coast Survey for IS.")?.

From the southern extremity of Point Loma the coast runs nortli by west for
twenty-two miU's; tlienc*^ to Point Lausen, (of Vancouver, 171».'i,) forniin;;' the oast
point of San i'edro Uay, nortliwest by west half west nearly sixty miles.

SAM HIS KEY.

The inissi<m of San Luis Jtej' was the larj^est in California ; it was founded
June l.'{ 171KS; stands in a rich valley from oiu; to two miles wide; is about three
miles from the ocean, beinin" separated therefrom by a ranye of hills; an<l the
number of (h)nH'sticated Indians formerly in its neighborhood gave it the appear-
ance t)f a large and thriving settlement.

It is nearly in the centre •)f a section of ccmntry nnecpialed for salubrity and
in'oductiveness, but the scarcity of rain is an insuperable drawback.

The mission is now a military post, but very few men an^ stationed there.

The anchorage is veiy much restricted and unprotected, and now rarely
visited. Its position on the coast will be seen by reference to the chart of the

Coast Survey.

Its approxinuite geographical i)osition is:

Latitude .'{.'> 17 north.

Longitude 117 1'!) west.

SAN JUAxV CAinSTRANO

is now a place of no impoitance, with an nn])rotected anchorage, roclcy bottom,
and bad landing. The bay has a high clitt-like head to the iu)rthwest but termi-
nates in low sandy beaches to the southward.

It is situated in a tine valley, and its site is marked on the chart of the Coast
Survey.

The approximate geogra])hical position of the anchorage as determined by the
United States Coast Survey is :

O '

Latitude 33 27 north.

Longitude 117 43 west.

In latitude 33° 30i' north, about four miles northwestward along the coast
from the w(>stern point of Capistrano anclun-age, the line of equal mnffuetk decli-
nation of 13"2 east cuts the shore, and i)asses ctver the great transverse break of
the island of Santa ('atalina. This line annually moves southward a mile and a
half.

strotc'h

of the

eat for
ho east

I'H
11(1

ISt

DiiiKh'd
t three
11(1 the
ipijear-

ty and

IKl

•SO

lie
(1-
ut

I'O.

rari^ly
of the

of
ot
at

nth.

est.

ottoni,
termi-

Coast

by the

>rth.

est.

coast

(lecli-

'ak of

and SI

lie
lie
fU«
re
iff
as
ttt

?.)
be

X).

v'Sfr ^ '■ Jf-^ar

,:?;•■:•*»-

!'> \mi. .'Ill

I1-..I M..11, I

\i-vv,.r r..i„ r,.,lr,, I', |.,.,,i,,r, I,,...,-,,,., W \ W, C ,,,..- ■, „„|,

'^"■w. I'l. DiiniM l.r.iriiio |.:;isl lC,,iH|.,i>s

'.HH|i,i>s! Ill uii|r~,

tb<
of

Sti

Fill
»0|

.Til

»•■,*• "-j».

vi>

I.S

an
nil

I
Si

tJ«-!C^

nn
th
La

.:iM l'(',>iii|i,issl 1(1 mill':

COAST IMIA)T OF C'AMI'OUNIA. 15

SAN I'KDKO HAY.

Tills 1)ii,v is wj'li ]trot('('(«'(l In every diieetlnii, exc^ept ii^iiiiist the winter ;;iiIeH
from tlie suntlu'iist ronntl to tlie sunthwest. Dniinj;- the spiinj;, sinnnier, and
iiiitinnn it is an exeeMent roadstead. Kroni Point I-'einiin,* whieli is t lie southeast
jtoint of hlj,'h land west of the, hay, the line of blutf niiis exaetly north and .sontli
for about tw(» miles, hein;j hold, and averajjinj; sixty feet in hei^iht.

Vessels eominjn' from the westward throuj>h the Santa Harbara Channel nuike
San Pedro Hill, (l.tUMt feet hij;h,) forminj;- the west side of the bay, as an island
l»rojeeted a^ininst the mountains to the southward and eastward. Approachin;;
Point \ in<'ent«', which is the southwest point of the liill, vessi-ls ean keep it ^^\os^^
aboard, ther«' beinj;' from lifty to «'iyhty fathoms within a mile (»f the shore;
round Point l<Vrmin within half a mile, in from six to ten fathoms, and open the
small island ealled El 3b)ro:t run for that island; and when abreast of the lantl-
in;;', (readily reeo;;iii/ed by the lutuses on the blutf,) about one inih' north of Pdint
Fermin. anchor in three fathoms, hard bottom, and half a mile off shore. \'es-
sels must anchor a mile otf to ^et liv«' fathoms.

Comiu};: from the south with noithwest winds, beat in boldly until abreast of
the landing'; kee]) the lead jroin^' and anchor anywheie in its vicinity. Do not
approach the low slutre, to the north and east of El More, closer than (»ne mile, at
Avhicli limit four fathoms water will be found.

In winter, anchor further out, and more to the southward, in onh'r to i»e able
t() slip and no to s«'a slnmld a heavy southeaster sprin;;' up. In I>S."»L' we saw the
clipper briji Fremont ride out a very heavy southeast j;ale (»f three days' duration.
The waters of tiie lajicton, inside of the low sandy beach, and a mile or more
northward of El iNIoro, lind their ])rincipal outlet between that island and the blutf
])oint half a mile west of it. the entrance is very narrow and crooked, and has
two buoys, about two hinidred yards apart, to rk it. In l.S."i!> it is stated | that
the " bar at the entrance to the creek remains about the same, (as it did in l.S."i2.)
At mean h»w water, throwiufj- out the halt tides, only two feet of water can be
carried over it." The town of AVilmin<;ton is situated three miles inside the bar,
and has a good wharf and larji'e storehouses to receive freijiht. There are two
steam tujis and live lighters for receivinji' and deliverinj'' freij;lit to vessels in Sail
Tedro ]>ay.

The ji'cographical position of the Coast Survey astronomical station on the
blutt' at San Pedro laiidiiiji' is :

Latitude 'S.i 4.S !!).(! north.

Longitude 118 1(5 0;j.(» west.

/(. III. K.

Or, in time 7 53 04.2.

*Nimu'(l by Vaiictmvt'r in IT'J'^i, at'ti-i- t'oriiiiu dc lii Siicn, the I'atlicr, infsidciit of flir MissioiH
of Alta ('aliforiiia. " A low ixiiut foiiiiiiii; tlic cast point nf a small liay or eov(! in the sontlifast
jiart of .San I'imIi-o I!ay" he named Point l.asiicn after tlie same jierson.

t For I'l Morni. On the Coast Survey reeonnaissanee eliurt of lS'>ii it is railed Dead Man's
Wuiul. tKejiort of the Sniterinteudeiit of the Coast Survey for If^oH, i)a}{e 100.

COAST PILOT OF CAMKOKNIA.

Mii^jiH'tic variiitiuii, l.'P ;!(l' ciisf, in NovciiiImt is.l.'i, witli ii yciirl.v iiicrciisc <»(' I'.

All ii|»i»ro|iiiiilioii liiis hft'ii iiiii<li> lor :i llijlil lioitsr mi I'niiit Fniiiiii, iiiiil tlm
iicrj'ssar.v tttpujiriipliicnl siiiNry roiiiplctcil. Tlic site n>niiiiiii(>ii(lf<l to the I,i;,'lif-
liuMsc Huiird li.v the Sii|M'riiit('ii(li'iit of tlic Coast Survey, is soiitli l»v west (|iiar-
tcr wrst, anil lit'lffii sixtt'ciitlisot' a iiiiic distant trmii tin* astioiiomical station.

Tiilrn. — Tin- corn-ctcd cstalilisliincnt or niran interval lielween the time of tin-
moon's tiansil and the time of hi;;!! water is !•/(. :\'.\iii. The nn-aii rise and fail of
tides is .'5.7 feet, of sprinfj tides 4.7 feet, and of neap tides li.L' feet. The mean dii-
ration of the tlood is (i/(. ISm., of the ehh (i//. .~>m., an<I of the stand ('//. :Miti. Tli(>.
avera;;e dilVerenee between the eorreeted estaitlishments of the a.m. and p.m.
tides of the samjf <la,v is \li. I(»m. foi' lii;:h water, and 1//. \m. for low water. The
dilVerenees, when the moon's deelination is ;ireatest, are \li. ."iw. and I//. '.'tSm.
respectively. The avera;^*' dilVeiciiee in height of tiiese two tides is 1.5 feet I'orlhe
liijfh wat«'rs and li.O for the h»w waters. When the moon's deelination is ;;reatest,
those dilVerenees ai'c !.'.."> feet and ;>.I feet, r«'Speetivel\. The averafie dilVerenee of
the lii;;liei' hii^li and lower low waters of the same day is ."».(» feet, and when the
moon's deelination is jireatest (1.(5 t'eet. The Iiiyhor Iii^-h tiih- in the twenty-four
hours occurs about !•//. Ktw*. after the moon's u|»per transit (southinj.;) when tlu^
moon's deelination is north, and about ■>/(. Him. belbrt^ when south. The lower of
the low wat«'rs occurs about si'ven hours alter the hi;;Iier liijih tide.

The j^reatest observed dilVerenee between the two low waters of out' day was
;$.!) feet, and the {greatest diflerenc^e between the hij;her hij^h and lower low waters
of one day S.-l feet.

To lind the times and hei;;Iits of hij;li ami low waters, compute them for
San Diejio, the times and heights beiuj*' sensibly the same for both places.

The town of Los Anj{eles is twenty-two miles north by the road, from San
Pedro, and is the centre of an extensive grazin^i', a}>ricultural, an<l yrape-yruwinj;
country.

Salt works have been established within a few miles of Los Angeles, but tho
pond from which the salt water is obtained covers only an area of six hundred
yards in lenjitii by two hundred in width.

The 15ay of San P«'dro was discovered by Cabrillo in 1'>12, and was called tho
liay of Smoke, (Fumos.)

When Vancouver was seeking- for San Pedro l>ay he f<»und su(!h deep water
off Point Vincentc that he thought this could lutt be near the idace; but after
{i'ettin};' to the south and east he had a fall view of the anchorage. He did not,
however, enter it.

In ISdl a prelinnnary examination was made of the lagoon, situated east
quarter south, about tifteen or sixteen miles from San Pedro, and which receives
the waters of the Santa Anna lliver. It was found to be some five miles h)ng,
and separated from the ocean by a narrow strip of low sand beach, over which
washes the heavy swell from the northwest and southeast stornjs. The lagoon has
a breadth of only a few hundred yards, and a mouth about fifty yards in width,

COAST PILOT OK CALIl'OI!XIA.

witli a niinwv biM", njM)!! wliirli it is siipponrd t<'ii <»r twclv*' tU'\ of wiitcr inifrlit
he CoimhI lit lii^'li tide. On this Itar tlinc is a vers lioavv Im-ak at all stairs oC
tlu' tide, rt'iidniii;; it (laii;;fi(Mis to noss ill boats of aii.v kiiiil. There is said to
be no safe aiichonij,'!' off tlu' eiit ranee, and the low stnii;;lit Iteaeh, with a treiitl
nearly east and west, atVords no protiction whatever. The San I'edro wiiiil ;-a|»
lit'H iM'tweeii San I\'<bo Hill and the Siena San .liiaii, to the southeast of the Santa
Anna, and the siiiniiier winds (baw direetly on the land, eaiisin;,' the northwest
Nweil to roll upon the beach witii ^-reat force. In winter the southeast ami south-
west swell liicaks siiimre upon this whole line of coast, and would prevent any
vessel passiiifi' into or out of the la;ii>on, orridin;- at anchor near it. The attempts
to pass tlie bar were, in all cases, attemh-d wiih risk, and the entrance niay, for
general jmrposes be regarded as iminacticable.

In summer the Santa .Viina is said to frequently dry iiji beft»re reaching' the
hignon.

Anaheim Laiidiii;; is situated at the oi»enin;i' into the northwest part of a Ion;;-
1a;;oon, and is used l>y steamers to hind :iid receive freight for Anaheiiii, which lies
tw«'Ive miles northeast therefrom. This landing is bet ween ten and eleven miles
east three-tinarters north from El Moro or l<eadinan's Island ; and the bar to the
lagoon is said (iS(iS) to have t\\ tw tlirce feet of water ujion it at low water,

FfDiii I'iiint Vutcchti* the coas! trends inutli by west three-tpiarters west for
sovcnteeii miles ; thence west bysouth to I'oint Diime, in latitude 'J4^ 0(1' north, and
longitude llHo 41' west; thence to Po'nt Mngn, west half muth for seventeen
miles. The last point lies northeast by east «niethird «fast, distant fourteen miles
from the eastern end of Anaeapa. This long curve in the coast is known as the.
liahia Ona.

IWint Dumc] rises into n <lonie-like form two hundred and two feet high. The
land immediately behind it falls away, so that in making it from the west it rises
into view as an island close under the high mountains. Eastward of J>umt the
mountains si»ring directly fnun the water.

From Poiitt Miaju to <SV<m BuoKH'cntiira, distant seventeen miles, the coast has
a general trend northwest l)y west ; but, about midway, it (uirves soiithwestward
of this (;ourse two and a half miles toward Anacajta, thus contracting the eastern
entrance to the Santa Barbara Channel. Two miles west of I'oint Mugii is Lagiina
I'oint, close under Aviiich is very deep wafer, the ten-fathom line running within
two hundred and fifty yards of the shore. Between Mugu and I>uenaventiira the
coast is low, flat, and sandy, being the opening of the valley of Santa Clara., through
Avhich Hows the Santa Clara Kiver. This stream is nearly dry during the summer,
and terminates in lagoons and marshes, but in the rainy season a volume of water

* Nam ' l)y ViiiKMHivcr iu November 1793, after Vinct'iitc Sta. Miuiii, one of the IViiir.sof tlio
Mission ot" .iii'iiiivfiituru.

tNiiiin'il l>y \'iiiieouver, in November, 1703, after the Father Fraucisco Dume, one of the friars
of the Mission of IJiienaveutuni.

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA.

Is bronplit <lo\>Ti having sufflcieiit forco to Itroak tliroiigli the narrow sand beach
and flow into the ocean. Tlie eonti};'m'ati()n of the sliore, and its relation to Ana-
cai)a and Santa Crnz Ishinds, are sliown npon the ])reliniinary chart of the eastern
entrance to the Santa Barbara Channel, jmblished bj he Coast Snrvey in 1857.

The eautern entrance lo the i^anta Barbara Channel lies between the eastern end
of Anaeapa Island and Point lluenenie, vvhich is about half-way between ^Ingii
and Bnenaventiua. From Auacai)a, Point Iluenerae bears northeast by north one-
third north, distant nine and a (piarter miles. The best landing is directly on the
point. Landing in the bight to the eastward and leeward is impracticable. Din^ctly
off this point im found a remarkable ex Muple of a submarine valley, commencing
with a depth of ten fathoms, four hundred yards from the beach, increasing to fifty
fathoms in five-eighths of a mile, and to one hundred and thirteen in less than two
miles. Its general direction is south, with a width of a mile, and bounded on either
side by depths of twelve and fifteen fathoms.

The erection of a primary sea-coast light at this point was recommended by
the Superintendent of the Coast Survey, and has been .luthorized by Congress.

The approximate geogi-aphical position of the site is :

Latitude U OS north.

liongitude 110 OU west.

The computed magnetic variation, August, 1857, was 13° 38', with a present
yearly increase of 1'.

Vancouver says this was called Point Con\ersion on old Spanish maps; he
placed it in latitude 34° (MC, and retained the name.

There is excellent holding ground ofi:' Buenaventura in ten fathoms, but the
landing is not good. The three-fathom line lies about a quarter of a mile ott"
shore.

The Mission of Biicnarcntnra, situated at the foot of the dividing ridge of the
valleys of San Buenaventurii and Santa Clara, about half a mile from the shore,
was founded March 31. 1782. Its approximate geographical position is :

Latitude 34 15 north.

Longitude 11!) 15 west.

Fifteen miles westward of Buenaventura, on the coast, there ifs ,i :''«'h deposit
of sulphur, surface specimens of which have yielded sixtj' per cent. Around the
locality are found ashes and scoria. The ground is hot, and the gas emitted is
almost suffocating. On the head waters of the Santa Clara Itiver and the Arroyo
Simi, are p«'troleum si)rings.

SANTA BARBARA.

From San Buenaventura to Santa Barbax'a the distance is twenty-three miles,
and the bearing near'y west by north.

Santa Barbara is an oi)en roadstead for all, except northerly winds, <vhich are

L.,

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKNIA. If

niilVcquojit. On the west side of the long, low, sandy beach is a bold bluft", called
Point Felipe.* The liill rising behind it is called La Vigia.

The landing is on the beach about half a mile east of Point Felipe ; tiie
shore is very low and Hat as far as the town, three quarters of a niiU; distant, but
gradually rises to the mission, whicli is a prominent object about two miles inland.

Vessels coming from the westward first sight La Vigia, and, upon apitroaching
the anchorage, keep outside of the line of kelp, (here nearly half a mile wi<le,)
gradually round the point u))Oii which is situated the Uffht-housc, two miles south-
westeily of the landing, keep along the kelp until abreast of the town and anchor
in seven fathoms ; or pass through the kelp and anclntr on the inside in three
and a half fathoms, hard bottom. In anchoring far enough off to get nine or
ten fathoms the bottom will be found sticky. A hydrographic sketch of the vicin-
ity was i>ublished by the Coast Survey in 1S55.

No dangers have been discovered in the kelp oft' this beach.

With the h^iist swell the surf on the beach is a bad one, no'c; falling square on,
but cutting it at a sharj) angle.

In Avinter, vessels must anchor outside of the kcOp, as the gales detach it and
drive it shoreward in such vast (nuintities that, coming across a vessel's hawse,
it helps to bring home her anchors.

LIGIIT-IIOISE AT SANTA BARDAKA.

Tlie structure consists of a plastered dwelling of one and a half stories, with a
low gray tower, also plastered, rising through the roof. The illuminating appa-
ratus is of the fourth order of the system of Fresnel, and shows a fued white
Unlit, illuminating the vseaward half of the horizon. It if; situated at an elevation
of one hundred and eighty feet above the sea, two nules southwestwardly from
the landing on the beach, and one hundred an<l eighty-three yards from the edge
of the bluft". The light, as seen from the sea, will be projected against the hill
rising behind it.

In clear weather it can be seen from a lieight of ten feet at a distance of nine-
teen miles; from a lieight of twenty feet at a distance of twenty and a half
miles.

It was first exhibited December 1, 185G, as a red light, but has since been

changed.

The geograi)hical position, as given by the Coast Survey, is:

Latitude ^51 -•"' -^•"'•^l iK"th.

Longitude H!^ 4- *>•'» west.

h. III. M.

Or, in time 7 58 48. 3

Magnetic variation, l.'Jo.lO' east in Novemljer 18."»3; yearly iiun-ease 1'.

"NiuiumI liy ViiiifouvM' in Novi'iiihi^r 179;j, tiftw tho comiiiuiiilaut of Hm pii-Kidio of Stii.
llavliivni, St'futr l>ou K^lipc (loycoclicii. It is ciilli'tl Point Oastillo on tin; Coast .Survey tliiiit of
\K)'.\, fron\ a muiill Mexican battery formerly existing ui>ou it.

20 COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA.

Tho si'coiKliir.y iistroiioinical stntioii of tlie Coast Survpy was on tlio slijiht
fjriissy rise Just In IVoiii the Ixnu'h, and sixty yards from the west side of tlie road
leadiny to the town. Its position is:

Latitude ;U 2 4 li4. 7 north.

j.ongitude 1 lit 40 IS.O west.

/(. m. s.

Or, in time 7 58 41.2.

Santa llarhara is a town of considerable size, lyiiiff in the middle of an aft'ri-
eultural tract of limiti'd breadth runninf;' east and west, at tlie southern base of
the Sierra Concepcion. The trade Avith San Francisco is not extensive; but this
beinj;- one of the greatest stock-raisinj:!: districts on the coast, vast droves of cattle
pass thronyh and are sent to San Francisco and the muiing districts.

nie jNIission, founded Decend)er 4, 178(5, is one of the larj^cst and best estab-
lishments of the kind in California, and in the gardens attached to it the grape
and olive have been cultivated with success.

A large bitumen pit, about eight miles west of Santa Ihubara, empties
directly into the ocean, and the bitumen, lloating on the water, \. orks itijahist the
summer (u- northwest winds even beyond Point Concepcion. Very fre(|uently, iu
calm weather, a great extent of the anirface of the chaniud becomes iridescent from
the thin film of bitunuMi s])read (»ver it. The rocks along the shore, evi'u to the
westward of Point Concepcion, are covered with it, and when encamped at El
Coxo, in 1S.")(), we gathered it to start our tires. The Indians have always used
it to pay the seams of their canoes.

Sulphur, in large beds and of sui)erior quality, exists along the seaboard, ami
nmnifests itself iu all tlie warm springs.

AVood and pntvisions in abundance can be easily obtained here. AYater is
lilentifiil, but not so readily jirocurcd.

A very short distance back from the coast line is a range of rugged hills, over
two thousand feet high, forming part of the Sierra Concepcion, (sometimes called
the Sierra Sau Inez,) whose sides are sparsely covered with timber, and through
some (»r whose gulliiis and gorges pass small streams abounding in the finest trout.
From others issue warm springs having a temperature of about 117° Fahrenheit,
and highly imi)regnated with sulphuretted hydrogen. The height of the springs
by barometric measurement is about one thoiisaiid two hundred feet. They lie
behind the village of Montccito, eastward of Santa Barbara.

The coast trail to San Francisco passes along the shore for a distance of
fifteen or twenty miles to tlie Gaviota^ Pass; thence inland to the Santa Inez
Valley, which runs nearly jiaralh'l with the coast.

Kegular communication by steamers and sailing vessels is maintained with
San Francisco and other jxirts.

In l.-flLJ Cabrillo visited this place and found great nundicrs of Indians, who
came off to his ships iu larye canoes, aud were quite hospitable. Close to the

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA.

slioro lie foiiiul an Iiuliuii town with '■^ casus ymmlcHP To it he yiive tlio iiaiiu'
I'lioblo (If los CaiHKis.

The const liiic/rdm tiautn liarhara lUjht to Point Conceprlon lii/lif nnis west by
south, distance thirt.v-si'voii miles. The iii>;j;('(l iiills westward of the (ia\ iota
Pass come elosi' to tlie shore, Ibreiii^' the tiaveler to h'ave the beacii lor their sea
slope, tlie trail ]>assiii}>' over steep ridj^cs and across shai p valleys.

The sandstone terraces of the immediate vicinity are al)out ci;4hty feet hi;;h
at tlie Gaviota Pass and dip at an anj^le of forty dej^rees into the sea, tbrminj;- a
bulwark of natural masonry against further eneroachments. This elevated terrace
continues from Santa I'.arbara to Point Concepcion. In this distance it is cut by
nunu'rous arroyos running down from the mountains. There is «)nly one pass
between the LMver P.aenaventura and Point Concepcion, and that is the (iaviota,
Avhich at its summit at Santa Cruz is seven hundred feet above the ocean.

TILE sniooM.

The only instance of the .simoom on this coast, mentioned either in its history
or traditions, was that occurriuj;' at Santa IJarbara, on Friday, the 17th of .lune,
l.Sa!*. The temperature during the morning was between 7.")0 and StP, and grailu-
ally and regularly increased until about one o'clock p. m., when a blast of hot air
from the northwest swept suddeidy over the town and struck the inhabitants with
terror. It was (puckly followed by others. At two o'clock the thermonu'ter
exi)oscd to the air rose to VS.i'^, and continued at or near that point for nearly
three hours, whilst the bin wing wind raised dense clouds of inipalpable «lust. No
human b«'ing could withstand the heat. All betook themselves tt> tlicir dwellings
and carefully closed every door and window. The thick udohc walls wiudd have
recpiired days to have become warnu'd, and were conse<piently an admirable
l)rotection. Calves, rabbits, birds, .S:c., were killed; trees were blighted; fruit
was blasted and fell to the ground, burned only on one side; and gardens were
ruined. At live o'clock the thermometer fell to iL'L'o, and at seven it stood at TT^".
A fishennan, in the channel in an op(>n boat, came back with liis arms badly
blistered.

At the entrance of the valley of El Coxo, near Point ConceiK'ion, whilst
engaged in making astronomical observations, during July, August, and Septem-
ber, 18.10, we frecpu'utly experienced at night hot blasts coming down from the
Sierra Concepcion, after two or three days of clear, calm, hot weather; the north
winds apparently bringing the heated air from the valleys behind the sierra. The
records show many cases where stars suddenly became so very ditliised, large, and
unsteady by these short hot blasts as to be untit for observation. lieyoml the
annoyance and delay occasioned by this circumstance no observations were made
to determine the temperature of the heated air. It had, of course, not near
so elevated a temperature us that sweeping over Santa Barbara, and was <iuite
litful.

■M> hhu ?f»'i ,"■■'-

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOIINIA.

POINT CONCEPCION.

This cliaracteristic and romaikabU' lioadlaiul, about two hundred and twenty
feet in heiyht, lies at tlie western entrance to tlie Santa Barbara channel. Once
seen, it will never be forgotten. When made from the northward, or from the east-
ward, it rises as an island; but upon approach, is found to be a high i»romontory,
stretching boldly into the ocean, and teiminating abruptly. The land behind it
sinks comparatively low, and at first gradually, but soon rapidly rises to the
mountains, -which attain an elevation of about two thousand live hundred feet.
]>et ween three and four hundred yards south of the face of the capo is a large
rock nearly awash, upon which some of the California steamers have struck in
very foggy w(!ather. A tojjogi'aithical sketch of the point accompanies the Super-
intendent's report on the Coast Survey for 18ul.

LIGIIT-nOUSE AT POINT CONCEPCION.

The buildings are erected on the extremity of the cape and upon the highest
part, which is two hundred and twenty feet above the sea, and covered with grass
and bushes like the land behind. As seen from the southward by day it will be
jH'ojected against the Sierra de la C(mcepcion, and a|>pear about one-third of their
height from the water. Tiie part of the range behind the lighthouse seems very
level along its summit, and the house is seen about one-third of the length of the
level range from the western i)art of it. The structure consists of a brick dwell-
ing, plastered, of one and a half stories, with a low tower, also of brick, and
plastered white, rising from the center. The light was first exhibited February 1,
lS."i(J, ami shows from sunset to sunrise. It is a primary sea-coast light, ccmsisting
of an illuminating apparatus of the (irst order of the system of Fresnel, and
exhibits a revolriitfi irliite U(jlif, nJioicukj a Jianh d'ery h<ilf miiiHfc, throughout the
entire sea horizon. It is elevated about two nun Ired and fifty feet above the sea,
and should be visible, in a favorable state of the atmosi»here, from a height of —

10 feet above the sea, at a distance of 21.8 miles.

20 feet above the sea, at a distance of 2.3.;3 miles.

30 feet above the sea, at a distance of 24.4 miles.

GO feet above the sea, at a distance of 27.1 miles.

Its geograithical position, as given by the Coast Survey, is:

Latitude lU 20 i(Ui north.

Longitude •. 120 27 00 west.

h. III. ».

Or, in time 8 01 48.0

^Magnetic variation, 13° .50' east, in September 18r)0; yearly increase, 1'.

FOO UELIi AT POINT CONCEPCION.

A fog bell, weighing three tlumsand one hundred and thirty-six pounds, is
placed on the edge of the blulf, seaward of the lighthouse. The striking machin-

1 linndri'd and twenty
irbaiii ehannt'l. Once
ward, or from the oast-
be a liigh promontory,
,'. The land behind it
m rapidly rises to the
md live hundred feet,
of the cape is a large
'amers have struck in
iccompauies the Super-

and upon the highest
[tnd covered with grass
iward by day it Avill be
ibout one-third of their
light-house seems very
rd of the length of the
sists of a brick dwell-
ver, also of brick, and
t exlubited February 1,
ii-coast light, consisting
ystem of Fresnel, and
minute, throughout the
ifty feet above the sea,
re, from a height of —

Utiles

y, is:

O ' "

. . :U 20 4(».<j north.

.♦. lliO 27 ()»» west.

h. III. V.
.. 8 01 48.0

early increase, 1'.

'■Mk^:^mmim-^SSii&i

View, I'l, Cniirfiir;..!! h,';iilli>;- S. Ivl.v Iv

''■»m\;i^^^^

I 'oiii|i

l.t.H,,,

' M.. 11,1, ,11

I'- niih'H

d thirty-six pounds, is
The striking maehin-

COAST PILOT OF CATJFOIJNIA.

ory oodiiiiosa IViiinc biiildiiij;', wliitownslicd, on a Irvrl \vi(li tlio ^iioniid, jiiid Iiii\ inj>'
the fniiit open to icci'ivo the bell, wliicli is soiiiidcd diiriii;; tof;yy or otlior thick
wejitlior, iii^lit or day, every tliirteeii and a half seconds.

Tlie lollowinfj bearings and distances are taken from the Coast Survey eliart
of this h»«ality, i»ultlished in l.S,"».'{.

The rock oil' the west end of the San ]N[iguel Ishiud, south half east, distant
twenty tv.o miles.

The east end of San Miyuel Island, southeast by south quarter south, distant
twenty-six miles.

The southwest end of Santa Cruz Island, southeast by east half east, distant
forty miles.

Next to the islands of the Santa r>arbara Channel, Point Conce])cion is the
most prominent and interestinj;' feature Itetween San riancisco and the i)eniii-
sula of Lower Calif(nnia. It has very justly aiul apjtropriately been termed the
"Cape Horn" and the "Ilatteras" of the Pacilie, on account of the heavy north-
Avesters that are here met with on coming- throujih the channel, with a si"*'iit
changeofclinuite and meteorological conditions; the transition beiiift' remarkably
sudden and well defined. An investi};ation of the temperature of the ocean,
northwest and east of the cape, would be hijihly instructive, as some characteris-
tics would naturally be expected from the abrupt clianf^e in the direction ot the
mountains and coast line. AVe have frequently seen vessels eominy from the east-
Avardwith all sail set, and light airs from the north, in a very little time reduced to
short canvas upon api)roaching the cape, and vessels from the northwest coming
before a spanking breeze lose it within a few miles after ])assing the cape into the
channel. These last would be tbrtunate in reaching Santa Ilarbara in a day.
"NVe have known a vessel to be three days Avorking from San IluenaA'cntura to
Santa Ilarbara, whilst a ten-knot breeze was bhtwing west of Point Conce])cion.

The general set of the otf-coast ciurent is in the direction of the coast line
toAvards the southeast. The larger mass of the great Japan Warm Stream that
reaches the American coast about latitude 50°, sAveei)s southward along the shores
Avith an average breadth of three or four hundred miles, and a rate of about six-
teen miles per day. On ]March 24, 1815, the brig Forester, of London, in latitude
32° 4.V, and longitude 12CP 57', only three hundred and fifty miles southwest by
Avest from Point Concepcion, rescued three dying men (the captain and two sail-
ors) on a .Japanese junk that had diifted for scA'cntv-en months across the Pacific.
She left the port of Osaca, Avas almost imnuMliately surprised by a storm in which
she lost her rudder and a nmst, and in tiiis condition had remained until succored.
She lost thirty-two men.

Durjng some summer seasons the fog is almost constant, but more particularly
among the islands. For the space of six Aveeks, Avith clear days and nights at the
cape, the islands ha\'e been invisible. Rising, lioweA'er, to an elevation of a thou-
sand or fifteen hundred feet, the observer plainly sees the summits of the islands
OA^er the sea of fog Avhich envelops them.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOUXrA.

Wlicii tlic fof-s lu'i^vail, they ffonoriill.v roll in from seuwsu-cl at .smi.sct, iiiiil
soim'tiiiH's clciir awiiy about ten (»'clocl< next inoriiiii^f.

Point Conccpcion was discovt'ivd by C'ahrilht in l."»li,», and calh-d Cape (Jalcra.
ir»' jdaccd it in latitude .'!(;A° north. It was attorward.s named Punta <le la Linipia
('()n«'c]«'i(Ui.

The extent ol' shore line from the suutlieru boundary to Point Coneepeion is
about two hundred and lit'ty miles.

EL coxo.

Two miles east ol' Point Coneeiwion is tlie anehorase of El Coxo, off the en-
trance to the valley of that name. This anehoraj;e is a better one than that of
Santa Marbara, and the kelp is not so compact. Aftei' passinj;' the point from the
■westwai'd, at a distance of about thrce-ciuarters of a mile, v«'ssels may run east
by north, and ;;ra(lually round the blult one mile distant from tin; cape, yiviny it a
berth of half a ndle ; then iiin on a north-northeast course for three-quarters of a
mile, when the valley will open, with a sand beach otf it. Anchor outside or in-
side the kelp, accoidinj; to the choice of dei»th; live fathoms beinj;' obtained within
a (piarter of a mile of the shore, with hard, sandy bottom. Ten fathoms water
will be found half a mile from shore.

A hydrographic sketch of the anchoraye was issued from the Coast Survey
ollice in lS,"»ii.

There is a large ranclio at El Coxo, and it is one of the very best tracts for
grazing. The beef has a liner flavor and more delicacy than any we have met
with on the coast. At the head of the valleys and in the mountains is a s|)ecies
of large live? oak, very brash when newly cut, but growing hard by seasoning.
AVillow for fuel, and water, can bo obtained here, but neither in abundance. Thy
water is disagreeable to the taste.

The primary astnmomical staticm of the Coast Survey was on the top of the
bbitf, and between two hundred and fifty and three hundred yards west ludf
south from the mouth of the creek. Its geographical position is as follows :

Latitude U 20 .jii.u north.

Lou" itude llM) 2.") ot) west.

Or, in time.

S 01 42.(J.

IVIagnetic variation, l.'P 50' east, in Sei)tember, isr)0; yearly increase, P.
In passing this valley, in 1703, Vancouver saw an Indian village, the inhab-
itants of wliich made signs for him to land.

ISLANDS OF THE SANTA BARBARA CHANNEL.

Tlu^ name I'il Canal de Santa Barbara was given by Vizcaino, in I)eoend)er
1(102, to the narrowest part of the eliannel lyiug east and west, and about sev-
enty-two miles in length.

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOUNIA.

ITntil the Coast Survey first «'XiiiiiiiHMl in dctiiil the islnnds lyinyotV llic niiiiii,
Ix'twci'ii Siiii Dit'jio iiiid Point Conct'inion, iM»tliinji- iimiratc \v;is iinown (»!' tlicir
iiiiiiilici', iit'ciiiiiiritifs. extent, or i»osition. Ipon iill niiijis, of us recent date as
is,")!*, an island eall4'd San .Inaii was laid down, and npon a ina|> of lii(> icjinhlie
of Mexieo, compiled in tlie liiited States, and dateil 1SI7, we lintl no less than
twelve laryc islands, the jMtsitions and extent of wliicli are most j;i(ttes(inel.v eri'o-
iie(Mis. The island of San Miguel, the most western of the Santa Marhaia fironp,
is placed seventy niiles sontheast of I'oint ("onee])cion, instead of twenty-threo
miles southeast by south half south. The same ;;eneral remarks will a|)ply to the
coast line as thereon icpresented. Thr«'e larjic rivers are made to How iutt»thesea
between Santa Harltara and San Diej-o Uay, whi<'li is increased in si/.e to twenty
miles by lilteen, and runninj'- noitli, whilst two others rival it in extent. The j;co-
jiraphical posititms ;;iven previous to the C<tast Suivey o[K'rations are renmrkably
erroneous. We recollect well, wlu'ii cominj^ niton this (;oast, of llnilinj;' in yood nau-
tical authority I'oiut Conccpcion over six miles distant from the latest (h'termiiia-
tion in latitude.

In Findlay's JJireetory for the raeifie Ocean, |»ublished late in l.S."il, we find a
deserii)tion of the already mentioned San Juan Island, but it does not j^ive it a
very detinite location. It nmy not be uninteresting;' to state how the error has
been perpetuated. The lirst notice we ean find of this island is its discovery by
Martinez, in 17S!», on his passafi'e from ]\Ionterey to San Ulas. The lU'xt time it
turns up is in Vancouver, vol. II, pa^e -174, where the I'ollowinj;' account is i;iven:

"At the distance of about eiylit leaj^nes, souiowhere about north Tt'P west, or
north <)()o west from Point de la Loma, by a very uncertain estinnition, is situated
an island called St. John's, between whi<h and the coast we passed Avitiiout seein;»'
it, (althout>h he previously states havinj;' seen San ClenuMite and Santa (,'atalina,)
nor did we observe it while we ren\ained at anchor, exceptinj;' on one veiy <',lear
evening, when it was seen from the presidio (of San I)ie<;-o) at a time when I was
unprovided with a compass or any other means of iiscertuininy its directiiui, and
■was therefore only able to }>uess at its situation.

"It appeared to be low and tiat; is but seldom seen from the Presidio of
San Die^o, and was undiscovered until seen by Martinez, a few years before,
in one of his excinsiiuis alonj;- the coast."

As Vancouver has plotted this island on the line from Point Louni to Sail
Clemente, and as it is {generally so placed, we have no hesitation in assuming that,
duriufj,' peculiar and extraordin:.ry conditions of tlu' refracti(»n of the atnutspliere,
the i.sland of San Clemente, invisible under ordinary conditions of refraction, has
been mistaken for another and intermediate island.

Having' visited and examiiu'd San Clenu'iite, Santa Catalina, San Nicolas,
Santa Cruz, and San Mijiuel, we found them olferinj;' no inducenu'Uts for aj^ricul-
ture, and very few, indeetl, for raising' stock. In a few words, we may (;Iiaracterizo
their disadvantages as want of water, and want of fuel, with high, bold, and rug-
ged sides, which in many places become precipitous. The surface of San 3Iiguel
4*

2()

COAST IMI>OT OK CALIFOlfXIA.

iiiitl S;iiitii I'osn is ndliiif,', ;iim1 covered witli ;;i;ish jiimI Imslies; tlie nunintiiins of
tSiiiitii Ciitiiliriii iire iiliiiosf iiiiieeessible, iiiitl Siiii Nieliolits iiiid Siiii Cleiiieiite me
eoiiipnsed of eoiirse siiiidstoiie, preHeiitiiiK' a dry, siiiid.v, ami steiile aspect.

On tlie eliart of I lie coast from San l)ie;;o to San I'lancisco, |nililislied by tlio
T'niteil States Coast Survey, a reniarkaltle and l»»'autil'id exiiiltition of tlie paiallel-
ism lietween tlie islands and the ailjaceiit coast is pieseiitc<l. The four islands,
Anacapa, Santa Crii/,, Santa IJosa, and San Mi;;ue!, with the rocks sevt'U miles
west l»y north from the last named, lyinj;' broad olf the coast between San Ibienu-
v«'ntnia and Point ('oiicepeion, liave their lonjier axes ])arallel to the trend of the
shoreline, which is the ftcueral direction of the Sierra CoiKM-pcion immediately be-
hind it. In Vizcaino's voya^^e, this ]»aiallelisin was noted west of Santa Catalina,
" where a rejiular row of islands exist, five or six leagues distant from each other,
all ])opnloiis, and the inhabitants trading;' with each other and the main, and the
islands followin;;' each other in the same direction as the main land.'"

Cortes Shoal, the islands of Santa Catalina, San Cleniente. San Nicolas, witli
John lieji'y's Itock, seven miles fi(»m its northern extremity, have their lon<ier axes
northwest by west, and parallel to each other, whilst the island of Santa Barbara
is on the prolongation of the lonj^cr axis of San Clemeiite. in the third i»arallel
the direction becomes perpendi(!ular to the first described, for fnaii latitude .'5.'>o (».V
jioith, the trend of the coast and hills southward, throu^^li the loiif'cr axis of I'oint
Loma, will pass through Los Coronados, althouyh the ishuids lie northwest with
respect to each other.

Navigators, in making the Santa Barbara Channel from the northwest, readily
estimate their approach in thick foggy weather by the pecnliar odor of the bitu-
men, which, issuing- from a large jiit on the shore about eight miles west of Santa
liarbara and floating upon the water, works (((/(dust the summer winds far beyond
Point Coneepcion. This set to the w«'stward is found to exist for about four miles
off shore, and runs at a maximum velocity of a mile and a half per hour. Further
out the current is variable, but even there its greatest velocity is attained when
running to the westward. Ftoiii '.'oint Coneepcion it strikes to the southward ami
westward, being doubtless infhieueed by a current from the upper coast.

Vancouver is the first 'xiio calls attention to the bitumen, in the following lan-
guage, vol. II, page 41',): "The surface of the sea, which was perfectly smooth
an«l tran(pul, was covered with a thick slimy substance, which, when separated or
disturbed by any little agitation, became very lununons, whilst the light breeze
that came principally from the shore brought with it a strong snu'U of tar, or of
some such resinous substance. The next morning the sea had the appearance of
dissolved tar floating upon its surface, which covered the ocean in all directions
within the limits of our view, and indicated that in the neighborhood it was not
subject to much agitation."

The following remarks of Sir Edward Behrher, in October 18;39, are taken
from the Voyage of the Sulphur, vol T, ))age .'J20: "Oft" this part of the coast to
the westward [of Santa liarbaraj we experienced a very extraordinary sensation.

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA.

ns if til*' sliip was oil flvo, iiinl iilfcr a very close iiiV('sti;;iitioii iittiiliiitcd it to a
scent rniiii tlif sliorr. it Iteiii;;' iiioif seiisiiiie on deik tiiiin ImIow; iin«l liir lantl
lii'«'«'/<> coiitirniiii}; tills, it ocnirn-<l to in<- tliat it nii^lit iiiise IVoni iiii|)litlia on tiic
siirl'acc." TIh' smell of lliis as]i|iiiltiini appears (o lie oeeasionally exiierieiieed
quite tar IVomi the lan<l.

Anion^' tlie islands, as far as Han Nieolas, the euneiit runs to tlie sontliwani.
On tlie Cortes Slioal it lVet|iieiil!.v niMs ajiaiiist tlie iioilliwcst wind at tlie rate of
nearly two miles per lioiir. At otlier times it lias been found to run in an opposite
direction nearly as stron;^.

A preliminary eliarl of the eastern entrance to llie Santa Harhara Channel is
l»ublislied Ity the < 'oast Survey.

It may not he lieie amiss to call attention to the ahnndance of mackerel fouiHl
in the channel. We have seen the watei- fairly alive with them, and have caiijilit
them l»y hundreds. Craylisli of a very lar;;e size are found in ^i'reat niimhers
aloii}"' the shoics.

The lainy season commences in the early )»art of Novemher, and continues
until the middle of March. The quantity »»f rain that falls does not avera;;*' over
lifteen inches, hut some seasons are marked Ity excessive droiijjht. Diirin;;' the
Avinter southeast ^ales jtrevail, and sometimes diirinj;- the summer months south-
erly weather will hrin;; up heavy rain.

ISLANDS, SHOALS, AND IMM'IvS.

roUTKS llANIv.*

C(»mmonein;r sit the southward, the hrst object that claims our attention is the

dan{:;erous bank and I'oek called the Cortes Uank, bearin;^ southwest quarter we-t

from the southeast end of the island of Sail Clenieiite, and distant forty-six miles.

The extent of this bank has been sounded out carefully, and found much j;Teatef

than the eaily examinations led us to supi>ose, Within the limits (»f the tift\-

fathom curve the {•ciieral trend is (tarallel with the islands of Santa Catalina, San

Cleiiu'iite, and San Nicolas, and it stretches about seventeen mih-s, from latitude

32° 24' ncu-th, lon^itiule llSo rm' west, to latitude 32° 32' north, lonj-itude 11!P

17A' west, but curves sli^ihtly to the southwest. It has an avera,n(' and neaily

uniform width of three aiul a half miles. The luiture of the bottom is hard, <'oin-

posed of white sand, broken slu'Ils, uid line coral at the southeast jioit ion; and

sand, with broken shells, at the northw<'st. The shoalest and most dan;;erous

l)art is that known as the lUslKtp Koek, iyin;;: live miles from the southeast tail of

the hank, and haviii};' but two and a half fathoms of water n])on it. Around this

dan<>'er the (h'pth increases };Tadually> and in an extent of two and a half miles in

the general direction of the bank reaches but tifteen ■athoms. The geograithical

position of these rocks is, aitjuoximately :

o /

Latitude 32 2.")=| north.

Longitude Ill) 0,"» west.

*]''<ii' iiii (.'xtciisiioii of this bank to the soutLcastward mi.'c aiiotliei' page.

MHVHiinaitKi

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOILVIA.

From tlio iiortliwcst cud of tlie isliiiul of Snii !Nicoliis tlic rock bcnrs soiitli-
oast hiilf soiitli, «listiiiit lift.v-scvcii miles; iind from tlic soiitliciist end of the
island of San ricmcnte it bears soiitliwest (jnarter south, distani forty-six miles.

From tlic I'.islioj* K'ock to tlic west end of San ^li^j^iid Island the course is
northwest (luartcr west, and distant one hundred and tiftcen miles.

The next shoal s]»ot is one of ten fathoms, about the middle of ♦^hc ltai:k, and
of limited extent, beinf>' only half a mih' squai'e within the lift' en-fathom curve.
Its yeogra])hieal position is, aiiproximately:

Latitude IV2 L*fi] north.

Lonjiitulc 1 1!» 10.] west.

From the northwest end of San Nicolas, the spot last mentioned bears south-
east by south, distant fifty-four nules; and from tlu» southeast eiul of San Cleni-
ente it bears southwest (piarler west, distant fifty miles. From the Jjisliop Jvock
it bears wes. ([uarter north, distant five miles.

To the northwestward of this latter sho;;! s]»ot the depth is nearly unifcrm at
f(»rty-nine fathoms for seven and a half miles, and between it and the JJishop liock
the depth is uuiform at alxmt forty-three fathoms.

U])on this bank the cuirent is variable, frccpu'Utly setting- a<jainst the strong'
northwest winds with a velocity of nearly two miles jter hour, and producing' at
all times a heavy swell, and even in moderate wcatlier breaking heavily ui>on the
rocks. In passing over the 1)ank at i.ight we have been sensible of our jtroxiniity
t(» it by the incn'ased swell. In tl'.«' detailed examination of 1S,")0, it was four d
that the general set of the current was to the southward and eastward, and the
greatest velocity a mile and a half per hour; but no statement; is nnide ccaiccrning
the prevailing wind.

The existence of this bank had been reported several times, and the following
]tositious assigned to it:

Swift's Island, hititiide oo° US'; longitude ll'jo or.', as seen by Captain Aulick,
United States nav^s.

INu'k, latitude .">20 30'; longitude 111)0 00'; ]io autlunity.

Bank, latitude IV2° 2S'; longitude \lH° 4L"; no ..uthority.

It lies in the direct route m)w followed by the Panama and San Francisco
steanislii|>s. and was discovered by Cai>taiii Cro])]ier, of the steamship Cortes in
^larch l.srh). His ]tosition was tU'termiued by bearings u|)on San Nicolas and San
Clemente, and was very close, l)eing within a mile of the latest and best assigned
])lace. lie says Miat the water around it was in violent commotion, and thrown
ji)» suddenly in cohnnns at regular intervals of four or live minutes. At first he
thought he saw breaki'rs; and occasionally the 'vater broke as on a reef, but he
became coiditicnt that the disturbance Avas owing to submarine volcan:*- agency.
The spccinu'iis the botttmi negative this id<'a. He found his dei»th o»' water
redi'.ced Iron' forty-tW(» fathoms to nim>, which convinces us that he was on the
slioal spot, about the middle of the bank, an<l saw the water breaKing upon fht^
Jlishop Ifock. the sanu' appearance that he witnessed Iniving been seen nniny

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOEXIA.

times since, aiul tlie nature of tlie rocky bottom and deptli of water siii)])ortin<»
tlic assnniption. TJic ]Htsiti<ni ni' the bank Avas aftcrwi.vds more close'y deter-
mined by tlie connnander of the steamshij) Pacific; but in tne coast survey o]»er-
ations the tcn-fatliom sjiot was found, and the surveyiiifj' s-lioonei', under com-
mand of Lieutenant T. IL Stevens, United States navy, used in that duty, was
anchored on it live days.

Attentii>n was subsequently called to a more extended examination of tho
vicinity by the cliitjti'r shi]» S. S. JJishoj), (afterwards (iray Kafjh',) of Philadelphia,
strikin<,Mi|Min the rock, since called by her nanu-. (bS,V»); and, under inilavoiabUM'ir.
cumstances, two ])oints of rock were sui»i)osed to exist, to which ajiproxiniate posi-
tions were assijiued. In 18r»(J the bank was souiuh-d out to the extent of one hun-
dred and thirty sijuare miles; and from a consideration of the hijihly favorable
circumstances under which this last sui'vey was made, confidence is expressed that
the ])oint of lock above nientioiu'd is the only one e\istin,i;'; but as it is vi'ry diifi-
cidt to find <letached single ]>oints of rock below the siul'ace in a sea-way, we shall
not be snrjirised if others be eventually foinid. At all events, the lu'udent naviji'a-
tor will nive this bunk a f;oo<l berth. Its existence forcibly suggests the prolni-
bility that other siibniarim> ridges lie ])arallel to the coast.

A chart of the Cortes Shoal was published by the Coast Survey in 185G.

ISLAND OP 8A>: c'i,i::meme.

This, like all tb" ishmds of the Savta P.arbara channel, is high and bold, the
southern end being the higher, and the land gradually falling to the nor*hwar<l.

The general trend of the island is northwest by we-;t; its length twenty
and a half Juiles, with an average breadth of two miles, and ,'it'ty miles in circuit.

The s(mthwest jtoint of the islaiul bears west half south from I'oint Loma,
distant sixty miles. At the norl'iwest end is a small indentatioi. of the shori line
forming an anchorage, having a width of three-ipiarters of a mile, by h;df a mile
in depth, with sotmdings decreasing from twelve fathoms, (on the line ol' a large
iecky islet at the northwest side to a iioint east by south,) to four and live fath-
oms close in shoi'c. Kelp will be found in ten fatliDiiis, but the bottom is tolerably
regular and hard. It is unything l)ut a pleasant or safe ancliuiiige in bad norili-
west weather, an'' even in heavy southerly weather the swell mnsl mil in disa-
gi'cealtly. .^ iiydrograiihic sketch of it was issued from the Cciast Survey Ollice
in IS.lL'

Two or three miles s(tutheast of this anchorage, on the eastcin side of the
island, another is laid down on the <'oast Surv y chai t.

I'nder the scmtheast end of the island anchorage may be had in the deeitest
part of the indentation, called Sauiggler's « ove, but tlu' botttan is rockv and
irregular. The southeast point is a vast san<lstone pxramiil; and when it is
bnaiglit to beai' north, and the shore tniec ((uarters of a mile distant, the anchoi'-
age will lie west by north half north, one and three (piartcrs mile inside the kelp,
in ten to fifteen fathoms, and one-third of a mile from the narrow sand beach ut

30 COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

tlip foot of tilt' cliffs. Outside 'of the kelp the depth ranges from ten to thirty

filtl'....llS.

This luichorajie will afford i)rote(*tiou in heav;, lorthwest weather. A hydro-
ffrai>hie sketch and view of it accoiupauies the annual Coast Survey import for
1850.

The soundings around the island show a dejtth of from thirty-six to one hun-
dred and thirty fathoius close in shore, except otf the northwest point, from which
a reef juakes (mt about a mile.

Tlie Coast Survey secondary astronomical station was at the northwest
ancluu'age, on the f>rassy lise, Just uiside of the hijuh-water line, and bore south
17° east froiu the north point of the rock islet before mentioned. Its {>'eograph-
ieul position is:

Latitude (approximate) ."5;$ 02 north.

Longitude 118 ;51 Avest.

Or, in time 7 54 10.0

Neither wood nor water can be had here. Tlu^ whole island appears unfit for
raising stock, on account of the want of water. Very few trees are found, and the
aspect is sterile.

In 1802 the following report Avas nmde upon the condition of the island: "The
entire sur(iic< of the island is broken by gulches, without a vestige of wood or a
drojt of running water. No inhabit:<nts reside ui)(>n it, nor were any animals found
exce])t about one hundred and titty wild sheejt. Tlu» highest i)oint of the island is
estiumted at about one thousand five hundred feet."

This island was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by him San Salva-
dor, after one of his two vessels. The present innne was given by Vizcaino in
1002. It is distinctly visible in clear weather from I'oint Lonm light.

ISLAND OP SANTA CATALINA.

This island is .seventeen and a half miles long, with an average breadth of four
miles to the southern ]>art, and two mih's to the northern, wliile the shore-line
anu>unts to ai»out forty-two miles. It rises to a heiglit of about three thousand
feet, and is remarkable for the great transverse break or (h'pression, five miles
from the n(u-thern end, running i)artly through it, and forming an anchorage or
cove at each side. The land coniu'cting tlies(> is very low, say not over thirty feet;
but tlu' hills rise up on each side two or three tliousand tcet, and, when sighted
from th(> north or south, the Aviiole appears like two very liigh islands. The
general trend of the island is west by north three-quarters north.

Tiie <lepression in tlu^ island bears south southwest from Point Fermin (San
P-'dro) and is distant eigliteen and a half mih's.

The harbor (»!' cove on the southern side, fiv( ruiles froi.i flu icrtheni "'mI, is
only on»'-third (»!' a mile in width, but its ii|iproiU'hes aie bold, an'', so far iis known,

" "> • ^^w

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKXIA. 31

frof from liiddcu (laii<;i'rs. To find it, run aloiij;- tlic southwest side of the island
and luako the di'iuossioii ; then stand in for the opcninji-, ki'cpinjj; a littU' U'ft of
niid-channcl until a third of a niile inside of the heads. From thence keep in niid-
ehannel until abreast of the lonj^', low jxtint on the rii^ht, and anchor in five
fatlioins, soft bottom. There is a depth of three fathoms inside of the low i)oint,
with hard bottom, but not "ooui enoufi'h for a vessel to swinj--. If the win<l i.s
blowing from the northwest, vessels will lose it at the heads, and perhaps re(iuire
to l)e towed in.

The anchorajje on the north side of the depression is also small, with a reef in
the center and two larjic ontlyinj;' rocks. A steanu'r could run in on the west side
of the rocks, and iinchor ott'the low beach in ten fatlioms, when the reef would lie
ncnth bv east irom her, distant an eighth of a mile. Small craft will here find pro-
tection fronr the prevailing winds, but will experiein-e diflieulty in p'ttinjj out, as
theie is always a swell settinj;' in, and the wind blows in flaws and eddies ai'ound
the hi;;h hills. ]>etween the two points forming the anchorage the distance is half
ji mile, and the depth one-third of a mile.

The soiuidings around the island siio>v bold water, from nineteen to scventy-
flve fathoms, close in shore, with no outlying rocks except oiV the north cove. The
shores are rocky, and on the southern side fearfully abrupt, but on the northern
shore there are several indentations, Avhere boats may land at almost any season.
Deep and ]>r( "ipitous gulches are formed by the ridges of rock running diagomilly
a<!ross the island from m)rtheast to southwest, and oc(!asionally a small valley
varies the scene. Four or five settlers cultivate these sjtots, but their inconsidera-
ble extent i)recludes the realizing of anything beyond a bare sustenance. About
midway between the northwest extremii,> of the island and the great break there
is a spring of good water, and at the southeast point good Avater has been
obtained by sinking wells to a depth of fifty fee*^ or more, but in the intermediate
places water found at the same depth is brackish. There is a large pond on the
low land between the anchorages, but the water is very brackish. Scridi-oak is
obtained for fire-wood, and a growth of thorny bushes covers the whole island,
rendering traveling very difiicult. The ishmd Avas partially stocked with cattle
and sheep, and at one time vast nundters of Avild goats abounded, but they have
helped to supi)ly the California market Avith fresh meat. In IS(>,'J sonu' old lead
nuiu's Avere rediscoAen'd ; the ««'e is described as argeidiferous galena.

From the north eml of the near large rock at the m»rtli cove the Coast Survey
secondary astronomical station, Avhich was on the edge of the bank, bore south
2~)0 west. Its geographical i>osition is:

Latitude ;VA 2(1 .". t.7 n(nth.

Longitude 1 IS liS 15 west.

/(. m. K.
Or, in time 7 o.J o.j.O

This island was discovered byCjibrillo in 1542, ami called by him La Victoria,
after one of his two vessels. It reeeixcd its present mime fiom Vizcanio in Decern-

n T

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOKNIA.

bcr 1002, wlion it was thickly iiilial>iti'tl by a iK'ojtlc loportcd to bo very iiisciiions,
Itaiticiiliiily ill piUrriiiji' :iii»l <'(mr«'aliiiji'; soiiiccximiplcs of \vlii«"li iiccoiiiplisliiiu'iitK
they j^avc the Spaniards, I'lidrc dc la Ascciicioii, who acccaiipaiiicd this expedi-
tion, jiives very paiticiilar deseiiptions ol'a kind ol' temple t»» tlie sun, witii images
and idols, foniid near the t\vt» eoves.

This island is distinctly visible in clear weather Iroin Point Loiiia li;;lit.

Ilydroyraphic sketches of the anehoniges have been publislied Ity tiie Coast
Siu'vey.

ISLA^'D OF SANTA BAnilATIA.

This is one of the only two small islands of the Santa IJarbara firoiip. It lies
on the line between the north end of San Clemente and the east «'nd of Santa
Crnz, and almost exactly halfway between them. From the north end of Santa
Catalina it bciirs west by south, distant twenty-ttiree miles.

The i'xtent of the island would not exceed two r.iiles of shoreline; its eleva-
tion at the hi};hest part is aiioiit live iiuiidred feet, and the top has an area of
about thirty acres* covered with soil, but no water is found, and not a vestijic of
Avood. The shores are rocky iiiul ahriipt, i)resentiiij;' on the northeast and south
sides i)erpendicular clill's exjMtsed to the full force of the ocean swell.

Landing is at all times dillicult and daiij^crous. The wat<'r around it is dee]),
and there are no outlyiii,ii" rocks. It is said to lie much mor(> eiiV'.'loi»ed in fojis
than tiie iieijihborinji' islands. Its ai>j»roxiniate j;eoj;rapliical position is:

Latitude ;{;', .W) lutrtli.

Loui-itude 11!» Oli west.

ISLAKD or SAN NICOLAS.

Of the channel islands this is the mosr distant from the coast, as well as the
driest and most sterile. It is about six hundred feet lii;;Ii, abrupt, and, like Sail
Clemente, cctmparatively llat-topited, but failinji- to the soiitiierii eml. The sides
are bold and preci]»itoiis, and composed of coarse saiulstone.

Jts <;eiieral directum is west-mu'tlnvest ; its len;jth is ei;;ht miles, with an
averaj;-e and nearly uniform width of three and a half miles, whilst the extent of
shoreline is about twenty-two miles.

The north point of the island bears southeast by east from I'oiiit Fermin, dis-
tant sixty-seven miles; the line passinj;' one mile south of the island of Santa IJar-
bara.

At the north end of San JTicolas heavy breakers make out two miles and a
half, and the soiindint>s towards the I5e,->j;- liock show irreinular and rocky bottom,
r.reakers also extend from the southern ])oint to the distance of a mile and three-
quarters, according- to Kellet. This is dtuibtless the ease in heavy weather.

The .soundings around the island show di'pths varying from ten to forty-eight
fathoms.

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOUXIA.

iniiit;'«'S

If Coast

Off tlio southoiist i)oint, wliicli is low and sandy, vossols may anchor in ten
laHioiiis, liaid l)ottoni, with a ciincnt iiiiiniii.i;' steadily to tlic southward, which
I'lakcs the land'if"' had, as the surf cuts the beach at an acute anj^le.

The ('oast Survey secon(!i>:y astronomical station was on the sandy itoint.just
reCeired to, and its j;('oj;rai>hical jtosition (U'tciiuined as t'i>llows:

Latitude .'5:5 14 1 1.O norlli.

Lonjiitude

11!) L».") (to west.

Or, in time

7 oT 40.0

. It lies
of Santa
of Santa

its eleva-
II area of
iestij;-e of
lud south

it is deci>,
d in fojis

) north.

: west.

I'll as the

like San

The si(k's

with an
extent of

Minin, dis-
5anta IJar-

iles and a
;y bottom,
and three-
ler.
t'orty-oifiht

This island was not seen by Vancouver in 17!KJ.

It was examined by the early fur traders (»(' the Tnited States, and on account
of the ji'reat luiniber of soa-otters found there was known by the name of Sea-Otter
island, and its south point placed in latitude .'5;5o 17', lonji'itude llO^ 10'.

The Ik'ijii Rock is situated on the i)rolonnation of the lon.uer axis of the island
of San Nicolas, bearing- northwest by west half west from its nearest (northw«'st)
l)oint, an<l distant seven miles. The rock is about forty feet hijrh, bold, and well
defined, and can be easily seen at a distaiu-e often miles. The souu<lin^s betwt'en
it and the island indicate the existence of a submarine rid{;e connectinj;; theui. Its
appr(»ximatc j^eoyraphical position is:

o '

Latitude ;;;5 22A north.

Lon};itude 1 10 :iUh west.

It was named after the shij) .Tolin IJejifi-, which struck ujum a reef lu'ar it,
September 20, ISl'l, and was nearly lost. The foul bottom is covered with keli>.
The i>osition of the rock relative to the island of San Nicolas is shown on tho
general chart of reconuoissauce published by the Coast Survey.

ISLAND OF AXAfAPA.

This is, in fact, a cnriously formed yroup of three islands, extondiuj; in a
nearly east-northeast direction, their entire Icnj^th beinji' five miles. The west
end of Anacapa is a peak nine hniulred and thirty feet in heij;ht, with a base of
over two miles by tluee-quarters of u mile. This is sepaiated from the middle
island by a jjap ten feet wide, through which boats can pass. The mi<ldlc island
is nearly two miles long by live hundred yards wide, whilst the, eastern island is
little over a mile long by live hundred yards wide. The gap separating the
middle and eastern islands is over two hundred yards Avide, but so com[»Ietely
tilled with rocks as to be impassable for boats, which can, however, land on the
uorth side of the island.

The west end of Aimcapa is four and a half miles east half north from tho

eastern point of tlie island of Santa Cruz. The d»'pth of water between these

islands is thirty fathoms, with a very regular bottom composed of gray

sand, coral, and shells. Tlie eastern end of the island bears southeast three-

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOJIXIA.

quarters cast from the Santa Barbara lifjlit, distant twent.\ -eifjlit miles, and from
I'oint llneneme or Conversion, the nearest point of the mainhuid, sunt invest by
soutli one-tliird soutli, distant nine and a (juarter mih's.

Anacapa is in hititude .'U° 01' north, and between h>ngitiuh\s 110° 10' and
119° 24' Avcst. Upon it the site for a lifilif-house hnnhven recommended by the
Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey.

The ishind is composed of coarse, darli gray sandstone, very rotten and
('rnmbliii<r. The sides are perpendicuhir, and from two hunched and tifty to
three hundred feet hij;ii. The main i)eak is marked on the north side by several
deep gulches, with almost vertical sides running from the summit to the bluft.
The whole formation is filled with innumerable cavities, giving it the appearance
of an einirmous blackened honeycomb. At the eastern extremity is found a very
beautiful arch in one of the outlying rocks. The soil is loose and thin, jtroducing
only a few dwarfed species of cactus and a thick-leaved succulent i)lant common
to the sea-coast in dry sandy localities. Not a droi) of water is to be fouml on the
island.

Anacapa is a place of great resort for the seal, sea lion, and formerly the otter,
but the latter have been nearly all killed otf.

It was on this island that the steamship AVinfield Scott ran ashore during a
dense fog at midnight, December li, IS.");}, in calm weather. The vessel wa<
steaming at full speed, and ran between and upon the rocks with such force that
she remained fast by the bow until heavy weather broke her up. The course of
the steamer had been taken from Point Conception, but without a knowledge of
the currents.

Vancouver, in his narrative, calls this island Enneeapah, and re|)eatedly
mentions it by that name; but upon the; chart of his survey and explorations it is
engraved Enecapah, which has given rise to every variety of spelling. Old
Indians at the present time pronounce it En-nee-ah-pagh', with a very strong
guttural intonation,

A chart of Anacapa and the eastern end of Santa Cruz was published by the
Coast Survey in 1850, and a preliminary map showing its relation to the mainland
in 18.j7.

ISLAND OF SANTA CRUZ.

This island is the largest of the channel grou]), and lies broad off the coast
oi>posite the town of Santa Barbara, at a distance of twenty miles. Its general
direction is east and west, with a length of twenty-one miles and an average width
of four miles, Avhile the extent of its shore-line is not less than fifty-three miles.

Ou the ncu'therii side of the island, and near the middle, the shore makes a
moderately dee^) curve, forming a roadstead called Prisoners Harbor, at the
opening of a valley, where plenty of wood and water can be obtained. Anchor-
age may be had a qaarter of a mile ott" the middle of the beach in fifteen fathoms,
sandy bottom; but there is no protection from the hefivy swell setting in with a

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOIINL.V.

iiortliwcstor. It must, liowevor, iilVord cxcclU'iit rcf'iij,'*^ in soutlicaMf wcatlicr.
A liydro^iJiipliic skotcli (tf tlic harbor was pu1)lislu-*l l»y tlio Coast Siirvt-y in

Two miles ofl' tlio south side of the oastoni oiul of the ishiii«l aiiclioraj;'*' is
laid down oil tlu' recent ("oast Siiivey charts in nine fathoms, over a bottom of
broken shells. In this position the east end of the island bears nortlu'ast three-
([narters east, distant tiiree and three-quarters miles, and the west end of Ana-
capa bears north half cast, distant five and a half miles; another anchoraj;e is laid
down at the southeast part of the island in a small cove open to the south. It
is nearly two miles noithwestward of a lar^e outlyinj;' rock, and from it tlie east
end (»f iSanta Rosa bears southwest three-quarters south, distant six miles.

Tile souiidinjfs around tlie islaiul give deep water close to the shore; but
tliere are rocks showin<:f (piite i)liiinly one mile from the southwest point. A chart
showing the hy<lrogra[»hy of the eastern end of the island was published by the
Coast Survey in 18.")0.

The island is bold, and about one thousand seven hundred feet in height.
Its eastern part is extremely irregular, barren, and destitute of water; and the
surface of the northeastern [Hutioii is thickly strewn with large angular pie<'es of
stone, broken as if with a hammer. Several sjiecies of cactus and some <»f the
coarse grasses flourish. The only wild animal found here is a small gray fox, of
which there are great numbers.

Santa Cruz Island is c«>mi)osed of coarse, (hirk gray sandstone, crumbling
and rotten, liko that of Anacapa.

The CU)ast Sur\ ey secondary astronomical station was on tlie eastern side of
the frc^sli water. Its geograi)hical position is:

Latitude.'. .34 01 (K».8 north.

Longitude 11!» 40 00 west.

/(. til. s.

Or, in time 7 58 40.0

From the Santa Barbara light we have the following bearings and distances:
East jMiint of Santa Cruz Island southeast two-thirds south, distance twenty-
four miles.

Prisoners Harbor south by east half east, distance twenty-two miles.
West point of Santa Cruz Island south by west half west, distance twenty-
one miles.

A site for a lif/ht-house at the eastern end of the island has been reported
upon and recommended by the SuiK'rintendent of the Coast Survey to the Light-
house Board.

This island was called .luan Itodriguez by Ferrelo, who (!ommanded the ships
of Cabrillo after his death, which took place either in Prisoneis llailuu", or in
Cuyler's Harbor (island of San Miguel.) Tlie greater probability rests with the
former, as there they could olitain water, and oak w»)od for repairs, &e., while.

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOIJNIA.

iicitlicr is to be \v.u\ in the lust-mentioned liaibor, except water, duiinfr the ruiny
season.

The ffronj) eoiniiiisinff Santa Cruz, Santa I'osa, and San Aliguel, was dis-
covered and called San Lucas by Cabrillo in 1542.

ISLAM) OF HAXTA ROfiA.

This is the niiiMle island of the frroup oft" the coast between Santa P.aibarii
and I'oint ConceiM-ion. Its H'l'iieial shape is that <»>' a paralleloyrain, with the
direction of the lonpT axis almost exactly east and west, and fifteen miles iu
len;>tli; and the shorter north and south, {iiving it a width of ten miles. The
extent of shore-line is about forty-two miles.

On the northwest side of the island, and midway between the north and west
])oints, a reef extends out for a distaiu'e of a mile and a (piarter. Anchorage is
laid down on the recent Coast Survey charts about the niiddh' of the Five-mile
IMji'lit on the northeast side of tlie island. A (h'otli of eleven fathoms is };iven
when the west end of Santa (.'ruz bears northeast by north threc-quarti-rs north,
distant eiylit miles. Another anchorage is laid down on the scmtheast face of the
island in a small cove open to the east-simtheast, with a low sand point, forming;
the south i)oint of the cove. It is between four and five miles southwest by west
from the east point of the island.

There is a good passage between Santa Cruz and Santa Eosa, with a width of
live miles, and one between it and San Miguel of four miles. Uoth passages are
frccpu'iitly used by the California and Panama steamships.

The soundings around the island do not show as deep water as around the
others. On the northwest and northeast sides from fifteen to twenty fathoms are
found two miles from shore, but on the southeast and southwest sides the water
is much deeper.

The outline of the island is bold. It is not so high as Santa Cruz, but attains
an elevation of one thousaml one huiulred and seventy -two feet. The hills are
rolling, and covered with coarse grass and bushes. Xo harbors exist arouiul its
shores, which are steep and broken. The relative position of Santa Kosa in the
gi'oup of the Santa Uarbara islamls is shown on the reconnoissance chart of the
Coast Survey.

The approximate geographical position of the south i)oint of the island is :

c "

Latitude S3 'hi north.

Longitude 120 04 west.

For the western point we have:

Latitude 33 .Wi north.

Longitude 120 12^ west.

On some early Spanish charts the western two of the Santa Urabara Lslaiuls
are called San Miguel and Santa llosa, (naming the western first,) and upon

COAST riLOT OF CALirOlINIA.

others Santa 'Hjirbara niul San Miguel. Tlio prosont names and order are tliosi;
adopted 1».\ ViUM'dUver in IT'.K?.

ISLAND OF SAN MKUKL.

This is the most ^vestern of tlie Santa Uarltara (Miannel Islands, ha\ in;-' its
lon;j:er axis l.vinjj- I'ast lialC north, and seven and one-half niih's in leii;;th, witii an
avera^ic breadtli of two and a half miles. The extent of shore line is twent.v-one
miles. Jts western extremity is hold and narrow, gradually inereasin;;' in hri-ailth
until it attains three and a half miles. As seen from the southwestward this end
of the island ap]>ears to he several iumdred feet in hei};lit, and e()mi»osed of sand
dunes, tliereiu ditVerin*;- from all the other islands. The eastern face is nearly
straijiht for two miles; the southern face is nearly strai;iht alon;;- its whole leufitli,
with hif^h, abrupt shores; and from thirty to thirty-seven fathoms water are
found elos*' in shore. On the northeast side of the island is the small bay ealled
C'uyler Harbor, olf which lies a rock cu' islet more than a fourth of a luile Ionf>-,
and several hundred feet hi;;h. From this islet to the deepest part of the harbor
the <listauee is a mile ami a quarter, and the course southwest. Close undi'r tli«
western side of the harbor is anchorage in six fatlnuus, secure from every wind
except the ninth, which rarely blows her«'. The eastern part of the i»ay is full of
rocks and reefs, and onj^lit to be avoided. The reef in the midiUe of the bay bciirs
southwest from the west end of the islet, and is distant half a mile. It is the
same distance from the west \)o'uit of the bay, near the anchoraj^'e, and bears east
by south.

Scmthwest by south half south from the west end of the islet is a rock, and
rocky \)ottom, distant a third of a mile; and on the sanu' line anotlu If u mile

•listant. The s<mthern part of the islet is about half a ndle from the ■ . shore of
the bay. The bay shores are hij^h, steep, and rollinj;', and covered with c >arse
grass and bushes. Ther" is no water here in summer, but during the winter
water »hains down the gully at the beach in the middle anil southern part of the
liarl)or.

A hydrograi)hic sketch of Cuyler Ilarbor was published by the Coast Survey
in isr)i>.

The western point of the island bears sonth by east quarter oast, distant
twenty-live miles from Point Coucepcion, and southeast by s(Mitli half south, dis-
tant thirty-five miles from J'oint Argu«'llo.

From the west point of San Miguel Island the Bishop Eock bears southeast
q\iarter east, distant one hundred and fifteen ndles.

A sea-coast light has been reported upon lor this point of the island, and the
subject referred to the Lighthouse Board.

Sheej) and some stock have been placed upon San Afiguel, but the success of
the experiment has been doubtful — certaiidy unremunerative.

The Coast Survey seeomhiry astrononncid station is on the southwest

38 COAST PTIOT OF C'AT.IKOIfNIxV.

piirt of Ciiylcr riiirbor, abont forty fct'l ; p. o,, (lie sidi'-liill. Its froognipliical
]M>sitioii is:

LatitiKlc, (ai)itro.\iinat(') ;?4 0;{ iiorlli.

J.onnitinlc 120 20 27 west.

/(. III. H.

Or, ill time S (H L'l.S.

Titles. — The corrcctod ostablisliiiiciit, or incaii interval between the time of
the moon's transit and the time of hi},'h wat»'r, is i»/(. liam. The mean rise and fall
of tides is ."{.7 feet; of si>rin^' tides, "i.l feet; and of neap tides, 2.8 feet. The
mean duration of the Hood is (iA. \:\iii., and of tlie ebb (i/i. r»m. Tlie averaj;*' dilfer-
ence between the correeted establishment of the a. in. and i>. m. tides of the same
day is Ih. 40m. for hij;'!! water, and l/«. ()»». for low water. The dilferenees, when
the moon's declination is greatest, are 2/i. ')Ai)i. and 2/t. 12hi., respectively. The
averajie dilference in heijiht of these two tides is 1.(5 feet for the hifjh waters, and
2,.") feet for the low waters. AVhen the moon's d(>clination is <j;reatest these differ-
ences are 2.0 feet and .{.({ feet, n's|)eetively. The average dilference of the liij;liest
hijih and lowest l«)w waters of the same day is .^.S feet, and when the moon's decli-
nation is f-reatest, G.8 feet. The hiyhest liiji'h tide in the twenty-four hours o<;cnr.s
abiuit S/(. .TtHJ. after the moon's iip]»er transit, (southing;- vhcn the moon's declina-
tion is north, and about .'$//. .")lw. before, when s(ui Hie lowest of the hnv
waters o(!curs about seven and a half hours after the n.^.icst hifi'h tide.

To find the times of hiyh and low waters tirst comjiiite them for San Diej^o,
and, from the uumiiers thus obtained, subtract V,)iii. for Ciiyler Harbor.

San ]\Ii{>uel was discovered by Cabrillo ;!i l.">-t2, and Cuyler Harbor is sup-
posed by some to be the bay in which he wintered. He died January 5, I'Ali,
havin}>' directed Bartolome Ferrelo, his pilot, to assume the command of the expe-
dition and continue the exploration as far uortli as possible. Ferrelo afterwards
named the island in whose harbor his commander had wintered, Juan Itodriy;uez.
It is sometimes called San IJeriiardo.

Cuyler IlarlKu- Avas named by the United States Coast Survey in 1852, after
Lieutenant Cuyler, United States navy. •

Two rocks, showing; themselves well above Avater, lie northwest by wc^st from
the western extrenuty of San Miguel, the larj^er being distant live miles. It
l)ears south half east, distant twenty-two miles from I'oint Concepcion, and south-
southeast, distant thirty miles from Point Arguello. Off the inner aiul snudler
rock a reef extends a short distance to the southward and westward. Deep water
is found around the rocks, and vessels may pass between them. These rocks are
designated as I?ichardson's Rocks on recent English charts. A rock above water
is laid down two and a half miles north by west quarter west from the western
point of San ^Miguel. It has deej) water close to it, ami on recent English charts
is designated as Wilscm's l{ock. The total extent of shoreline of the Santa Bar-
bara Islands is about two hundred aiul thirty-two miles.

ROo{?rni)lii('al

5 noiUi.
1> 27 west.

1 lil.S.

tlu' time of

rise and lall
8 foet. Tlio
■oriif>«' (liflcr-

of the siiiiio
rt!ii('('s, wlicii
■tively. The

waters, mid

these dirt'er-
f the liijiJiest
noon's (h'cli-
homs oeciirs
ion's deelina-
())■ the h)\v
e.

San Dieffo,
r.

rbor is snp-
lary 5, ir>4;5,
of the expe-
» afterwards

Kodriguez.

1 1852, after

y west from
3 miles. It
, and soiitU-
xnd smaller
Deep water
se roeks are
diove water
tlie western
»lish charts
Santa Bar-

*?]«ai

n viji,..|i..
\iiw I'l Ai 'Vii.'!!,. l.,Mi iij.,; S ^ I-: uiiis.s -, .ml. s

Vii'w nl' I'l, s.,| |,,..,,iiic N li "' . r,,j,i|,,i^.. , mill's

COAST riLOT OF CALIIOHNIA.

FROM POOT C'ONCErCION, ^OKTHWAKD.

Tlio first lu'iKllaiid to the nortlnvaia of Point Coiicoptioii is JN.iiit Av.u'iu'Uo,*
(listiiiit twelve miles, aiul bearinj; northwest by west half west. Tlie shore is hold
and eonipaet, eurvinji- slij-htly t<» the eastward between the two points, and the
iiiotintains immediately l)ehind are not less than three thonsand feet in heif-ht.
Tv,!) or three handled yards olf Point Ar->iiell() are some detached roeks, ui»oii
■which the steamship Yaidcee IMade struck and was lost oji the 1st of October,
1851, and four hundred and fifteen persons perished.

From this point the trend of the coast is nortlnvest to Point E"yes, two hun-
dred and forty miles distant, passing tanj-'ent to Point Sur in latitude JiO© 11)^'
north, and inside the South Farallon otf San Francisco.

Eif^ht miles north of Pt)int \r<;uelIo a small stream emitties into tiu' ocean.
It was (considered by Vancouver t!ie laij;('st he had seen south of the Cohnnbia,
but it is insi-nilicant and unimportant. Jle states tiiat on the old Spanisli charts
it is called the Kio de San I'.alardo. On a French chart (»f 1S41 it is c.dled the
San CJeraldo; in Tebeidcotrs collection of charts, 1S4S, it is called the Pivev
P>enar(lo; on the Coast Survey charts it is designated La i'luissima, from the Mis-
.sion La Purissima C>>;icepcion, situated a few miles inland. On the State map of
California it is called the Sa.i Jnes. It rises in lon;;itude 1 IIP L'U', about fifteen
miles from the coast, and runs pai-llel therewith behiml the Sierra Com epeion.

The first point northward of Point Arjiuello is Point Purissima,- If which
makes a reef about a fourh of a mile to tiu' south-southwest. This is known on
the coast as I'oint Pedeiiiales, sijiuifyin};- Point of Flints, but freciueiitiy ;::id
erroneously printed I'edro Nales. Formerly it was called San Pe<lro Nolasco,
Near this point tlu' steamshp Edith was lost in ISll), The State suivey of Cali-
fornia places Pedernales oidy two miles t(» the northward of Arjiuello.

Between I'oints Sal and Purissima a snndl stream called the (luyanuis opens.
From Point Arguello north by west two-thirds west, and distant nineteen
miles, is Point Salt, see Aiew, which is nuirked by streaks of yellow sandstone,
except at the extrenu' ixunt. It is a bold, mountainous headland, marked by sev-
eral dark, sharj*, rocky hills several hundred feet hi;^li, from one to three hundred
yards from the point. The rid,ne stretches ii.uind nearly east, increasing in heijiht
for four or five miles witii alt«'rnate rid ,v s and valleys, the ridges being from
eight huiulred to one thousand two luuidred feet high. Th^' side of this mountain
spui' protects the aiu-horage, and lucsent.s to the south a great wall, which
extends niu'th 78<3 east for one and five-sixteenths miles, to the opening of a
slight valley nuirked by a few bushes, and near tlie iKU'therii part of a half-mile
stretch of sand beach guanhMl by constant rollers.

The three-fathom line stretches three hundred and twenty yards southwest
from the i»oint and is marke<l by bi'<'iikers. The "outer lireakcr" lies five hiin-

*Niiin(Mi l)y Viiiicoiiver in Novfinbcr 17U3.

t Xatiu'd l)y ViiiU'imvfr i.i Niivt'iiilicr t/OH, after tlio (•oiiiiiuuKlinit of (li(> I'lcsidio of Sail
VnvufiMfo,

■p

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKXIA.

ilrod and sixty yards south, H'P west, from tlie point, with ten fathoms close to it
except on tlie east side. A rock and heavy breakers lie south four hundred and
thirty yards from the point, and between these and the outer breaker is an occa-
sional break on ;; ro( U with twelve feet watei'. The south end t.i' "Seal Kock," (an
islet forty-live feet liijih and nearly one hundred yards in extent,) lies south <i(P
east, seven hundred yards distant from the westennuost part of IVMnt Sal; but
the north side of the islet is only two hundred yards otf the nearest shore, with
thrc" fathoms between them. Two hundred yards off the southwest face of the
islet are <,'onstant breakers and a rock, besides several sunken rocks, having but
two to four feet upon tluMU. Along the south face of the point a depth of three
fathoms is found within one or two hundred yards.

The curve in the coast under Point Sal is about three-ciuarters of a mile deep
and tw(» miles across, with soiuidings in seven fathoms, over a very uniform bot-
tom (if hard gray sand; a depth of twelve fathoms is found from half to one mile
off shore.

The roadstead forms tolerably good shelter from the prevailing northwest
winds, but is always subject to a very heavy swell with theiu. It is broad open to
the southerly winds and swell. The best anchorage is in seven fathoms water,
about tive hundred yards south 78^ east from the north side of Seal Ivock, with
the extreme end of Point Sal Just o[ten ; bottom, hard gray sand.

Tills roadstead was surxeyed in 18U7, and a chart of it published in 18G8, bj'
the Coast Survey.

This stretch of the coast is A'ery similar to that behind Coneepeion and
Arguello, but, after passiug Point Sal, the mountains fall back, and the shore is
formed of sand-hills. The general trend hence is north, until the coast com-
mences Sivecping westward to form the bay of San Luis Obispo, and the shores
become high and abrupt.

The line of <v/»«/ m(i(/iictic riiriation of 14° east cuts the <'oast line in latitude
c-r»o 01' north, and crosses the meridian of 1121° ,W west in hititude 33° oo^' north.
It moves annually southward about a mile and a half.

SAN Lri!^ omsro.

This bay is an open roadstead, exposed to the southward, and even during
heavy northwest weatiun- a bad lateral swell rolls in, rendering it an uncoiulbrtable
an<'horage. The landing is frequently very bad, and often impracticable, but the
best i)lace is in the mouth of the creek, keeping the rocks at its nn)uth on the
'larboard hand. Fresh water may be obtained at a small stream oi)eiiiiig ttn the
beach half a mile west of (he creek. In the coarse sandstone blutf between these
two places are found gigantic fossil renmins.

Off Point Sun A«/.v, whi<h forms the southwest part of (he bay, are s(

)iue

rocks, and in making the an(;horage vessels should give this i)oiut a berth of half
u mile, passing in six or eight fathoms; run on a ncn-th by east course, and am-Iun'
three-fourths of a mile from shore in six fathoms, s ticky bottom. Four fathoms

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

can be got about a fourth of a milo from the beacih. lii winter, anelior far enoujjh
out to clear Point San Lnis if a southeaster shouhl come up. Diu'iiifj soutlierly
wentlicr laiidiiij;' is tVeiiueiitly efl'ectecl at the waterinj^- place when impracticable
at tiic creek.

The distance from the rock oft" Point San Luis to the mcmth of the creek is a
mile and a half; from the same ro(;k to a white rock beariiij,' north 7(P cast the,
distance is two and a (pmrter miles; and a black rock lies halfway between the,
white rock and the mouth of the creek.

The Coast Survey secondary a.stroiu)niical station is on the bluff at the east
side of the si)\all fresh-water stream, west of the creek, atid its geographical
position is :

Latiiude 35 10 'M.'t north.

Longitude 120 -13 31 west.

h. m. ».
Or, in time 8 02 54.1.

The magnetic variation was -IP 17' east in Fehruary ISjl; yearly in-
crease, 1'.

Tides, — The corrected establishment, or mean interval between the time of
the moon's transit and tiie tiiue of high water, is 10/i. Sin. The mean rise and fall
of tides is .">.(i feet; of spring ti<h>s, 4.S feet; and of neap titles, 2.4 feet. The
mean duration of the flood is (I//. 2~»n., and of the ebb ."»//. .jSm. The average dilfer-
ence between the corrected establisliiuents of I lie a. m. and p. m. tides of tlu' same
day is 1//, 2iin. for high water, and l/(. Ow. for low water. The ditferences when
the moon's decliimtion is greatest ai '/(. Omj. and \li. 2.Sw., respectively. The
average dilference in height of these two tiih's is 1.5 feet for tlie liigli iMitets, and
2.0 feet for the low waters. When the moon's deeli iiion is greatest, lliose liilfer-
ences are 2.0 feet and 3.1 feet, respectively. The average dilfereni o! the Idgher
high and lower low waters of the same day is 5.4 feet, and wiien tlie nn)on'8
declination is greatest, (».] feet. The higher high tide in the twenty iir liours
occuis about 0/i. lV2m. after the nmon's upper transit, (souihin;;, when tiu' moon's
det'lination is north, and about 2h. r>liti. beforr, when soutli. The lower of the
low waters occurs about seven houi's after the liighei' high tiiic The greiitest
observi'd dilference between the two low waters of one day was t.O et, and the
greatest diflerence between the higher high and lower low wai' one day was

8.3 feet.

To Ibid the tinies of high and low waters, lust compute them from San Diego,
and to the times thus obtained add 30w. for San Luis Obispo.

The town of San Luis Obispo, which fakes its iianu' from the ^Mission of that
name, founded Septend)er 1, 1772, is not on the bay, but is sitmifed about ten
miles in the interior, in the middle of an extensive and excellent grazing country.
Conmninication is luaintained with Sau Francisco and other port.s by regular
sleamers and Hues of sailing packets.
6«

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORXIA.

The bay was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by liini Todos Santos.

A preliminary chart of the harbor of San Luis Obispo was issued from the
Coast Survey oflice in 1H')2.

To the northwest of the bay of Sau Luis Obisi)0 rises to a great heij-ht the
I\ronn' de Huchon, which is readily distinguished in coining fron> the northward or
southward.

The northwestern part of this mountain, though cut by deep gulches, is very
plainly marked by three terraces, each of several hundred feet in height. No
other i)oint of the coast is so decidedly marked.

We have been informed by old otter hunters on this coast that there exists a
sunken rock about eight miles south-southwest from Point San Luis, and further-
more that they had found keli) upon it iu four fathoms. On the old S[»anish
charts an island ap])ears laid down in thai direction, but distant about eight
leagues, Ou Tcbeniiotis chart is placed a "doubtful island from Spaui^'i charts"
lilty-one miles south OIP west. One <»f the I'acilic mail steamships lay to in a south-
east gale and thick fog off Point Concepcion, and drifting to the northward camo
nnexi»ectedly upon a suidcen rock, upon which the sea was breaking heavily.
The commander supposed the vessel to be then off ^'oint Sal, and had so plott<'d
the rock upon his chart; but ujton being informed of the alleged existence of a
rock oft" San Luis Obispo, he was satislied that l."e ha<l been near it, but unfortu-
nately had no opportunity of determining his position.

This locality demands a thorough examimitiou, as it is in the direct track of
the whole California trade from San Francisco.

From Point San Luis the coast trends in a straight line west-northwest for a
distance of eight miles, and close along the shore of this stretch are several lai'go
rocks. Thence the coast treiuls abruptly to the north, to the high conical rock
called El yu ro, distant eight miles — these two shores forming the seaward base of
Mount Buchcm.

From El Moro the shore-line gradually' trends to the westward, thus forming
a deep indentation or bay, called Los llsteros on the old Spanish charts, but desig-
nated as the Estero Bay on the Coast Survey chart. It was discovered by
Cabrillo iu 15-H-*, and heic he obtained wood and water, liehind El Moro are
several lagoons or streams, and the high land retreats for some distance, leaving
the shore low and sandy, while the north shore is rugged, and guarded by rocks.
The northwest point of the bay is called Punta de los Esteros on the old Spanish
charts, and bears northwest half north from the west point of Mount Buchon,
distant thirteen nules. A line joining these two points shows that the bay is
about live miles deep.

From Point Argiiello, Punta de los Esteros bears northwest by north, distant
fifty-three miles.

From Point Los Esteros to the western point ol the anchorage of San Simeon
the coast runs nearly straight northwest by west for a distance of lifteen miles.
The shores are not so bold as to the southward or northward, and the nu)untains

* lllil|lllss I 1(1 lull

:-i

'■"'■^' "f I'l. .liMs |;i,i

w : \

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOltNIA.

fall woll back, Icaviiif;' a fine rolliii};- country of no great clovalion, and well suited
to ajirici'lturc. >Vo have seen wild out.s growing here over six feet in lieight — not
one or two stalks, but in acres.

<m /

BAY OF SAN SIMKON.

Tills is a small exposed roadstead, but affords tolerably good anchorage
during northwest winds. The southwest jtoint ct' the bay beais nortliwest by
west from Point Esteros, and is distant fifteen miles. The indentation of t\w
RlKue-line forming the bay trends between n(n'th-i;<«irhwest and nortli for Isaif a
mile, and then sweeps away lo the westward about a mile and a half, gradually
taking a southeast direction. Tee land behind the bay is comparatively low and
gently I'olling, the high hills retiring well inland. Tin- high hills behind this shore
are marked by redwood trees along their ciost line, and upon some of their flanks.

Vessels conung from the nor'hward may run boldly round the southwest
point, within a few bundled yards ov the shcne in eight or nine fathoms, round up
to nortli, and anchor anywhere off the sand beach, in five fathoms, hard l)ottom,
and a little more than a <piarter of a mile froui shore. The beach is half a mile
long, stretching well out, and reiulenng the landing disasTeeable with any swell;
but in such cases it is usual to hind at the western part of the beach. Eastward
of the sand beach the sh.orc-liue is bluff i.ud guarded with rocks. Vessels from the
southward must make short tacks close in shore, or they will assuredly miss it.
About eight miles south of the Piedras Blancas is a three-mile stretch of timber
upon the low roding ridge bordering the shores. Ar d two miles northward of this
tind)er is another, but smaller, extent of wood. T'.iese are good marks, but the
oidy sure marks for it j;re the Piedras Blam^as, as will be hereafter shown. It
■was in this bay that the steamship Pioneer p'.it in leaking badly; was driven or
draggerl upon the beach, and after being abandoned by the underwriters, was got
off and carrried to San Francisco, iiie bay affords not the slightest refuge iu
southerly weather. A hydrographie sla'teh of it was published by the Coast Sur-
vey in IS.")!*.

In making (his harbcu' from the northward vessels nnist sight the Piedras

Jilanvds, (Whitii llo(;ks,) four miles west three-quarters north of tlio southwest

l)oint of San Simeon. They are two large white bpip-topped rocks, and nothing

else like them is found on this part of the coast. AVhen the outer rock beaj.s

north-northwest about two miles distant, it bears a very striking resemblance to a

lion roHchant. The geographical position of the outer and larger rock is, approxi-
mately:

O I

Latitude 35 39 „ortli.

Longitude 121 15 west.

From Point San Luis they bear northwest three-quarters west, distaiit thirty-
eight miles.

From Point Esteros they bear northwest by west half west, distant eighteen
nuh's.

I-

44 COAST PILOT OF CALIFOliNIA.

From Toiut Arguello they bear nothwost half nurtk, distant seventy-two
miles.

The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Snrvey at San Simeon is on
the rise just off tlie heaeli, and bearing north 5° vest from the sonthwest i)oint of
the bay. J ts {geographical position is:

O I II

Latitnde 35 38 2-1.4 north.

Lonj-itude 121 10 22 west.

h. m. H.
Or, in time 8 04 41.5

Tliis bay is snpposed by some to be the "Bay of Sardines" of Cabrillo, where
he anchored and landed in 1542.

Nearly half way between the west point of San Simeon Bay and the Piedra«
Blancas a small contracted anchoiage is laid down on the Coast Snrvey chart.

From riedras Blancas the coast trends northwest half west for a distance of
fifty-seven miles, in an almost perfectly straight line. At a distance of eif^hteeu
nules from these rocks the above-mentioned bearing cuts a bold blutV and
ronnded point called I'nnta Gorda, off which, and for two or three miles along the
shore northward, there are many rocks. This point is the Cape San Martin of
Cabrillo. lie placed it in latitude 37° 30' north; Imt api»lying the corrcctiim
obtained from his erroneous (U-tcrmination of San Diego, we obtain 3r»o 50' north
as the ])osition of San Martin, which is very nearly its proper latitude. As there
is one point niuler Cape Mendocino, iruu-e generally known as Pnnta (lOida, it is
wcommended that this point retain the name given to it by Cabrillo, especially as
all his names have been cast aside.

Continuing on the same bearing, and at a distance of forty-nine miles from
Piedras lUancas, is Point Snr, sometimes called Lobos, making out nearly half a
mile. As seen from the north or south, at a distance of ten miles, Point Sur
appears as a high, large, round-t«)ppcd island; bnt njton ai)i)roaching it a low neck
of land is seen, connecting it with the main. Its approxinuite geographical posi-
tion is :

O '

Latitnde 30 19 north.

Longitude 121 52 west.

Vanconver, in passing down the coast in 1793, thought this " small, higli,
rocky Innip of land, lying nearly half a mile from the shore," was detached, and
that it formed an island.

The highest peak of the range bordering the coast lies six miles sqnare in
from Point Snr, and attains an elevation of fonr thonsand four hundred and four-
teen feet.

Still continning on the sann; bearing, tifty-seven miles from Piedras Blancas
and seven and a half miles from Point Sur, another slightly projecting point is
passed, about a mile to tlie eastward of the course. Thence the coast tiends more

i\'enty-two

10011 is on
st point of

.4 north.

I Avest.

lillo, Avliere

lie riodruR
>• oliart.
(Ustauce of
of eifilitoen
L blutV and
'S aloiij;' the
n Martin of
> correction
)0 50' north
. As there
Gorda, it is
'specially as

miles from
learly half a
s, Point Siir
it a low neck
iphical i)0si-

; 19 north.
L 52 west.

' small, high,
ctached, and

lies square in
:ed and four-

dras Blaneas
eting point is
h trends more

^P^-^' ^p^m^-^,....,,

"'■:¥f^-^i^^r^m^^.

T--^. 3(C^

\'if'w 111' I'l S

'"■ '"■^"■"'!^ N \ w ^ u-;i'n,„|,.,ss

I'.ISS I t IUl\,-H

■ ' ">Jlt-~-*ft-i

.Stir ■-*"*»>>- .n*^*!-

Vieworp, I.i„.,sX'!K.hv,n,n,.ass:,Mi|..s

&?*V'^M»«rt»«,»*Hi»-ft4*ft-a.'«*l«W»-n*|

i%".'

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOJiNlA. 45

to tlio castwiird, niimiiifi; iioith-iiortliwcst Tor «'i<;ht miles to I'oiiit Cypress, aiid
liiissiii;,^ I'oiiit 4'iiriiiel. the |Hiiiit south of Ciiniiel liiiy.

From I'oiiit Aruiiello to I'oiiit Siir, tlie henrin;,' is north IP west, mid llie tlis-
taiiee one hnmlied und twenty mih's. From I'oint Sur to Piinta de h)s IJeyes the
beurinfj is nortli 4.'P west, iin»l distance one Imndred iind «'i;;hteen miles.

The nioniitains, which iiad fallen back iiehind lios l-^steros, now ;,nadnally
a]>proacli th<> shore-line nortli of San Simeon; and ai)ont ten miles north of I'ie-
dias lilaiicas tlu-y come down abrnjitly to the coast, and run j>arallel with it to
I'oint Carmel, foiniinf,' the boldest iind most compact shoie that we have yet
passed, and attaininj^ a uniform elevation of nearly four thousand feet. Thes"
mountains were called l)y Cabrillo the " Sierras Atlas," but at jireseiit the raii^x' is
known as the Sierra de Santa Lucia. Fiom their abrupt faces we have seen cas-
cades fallin^f from a lieij,dit of forty or fifty feet directly into the sea.

rAKMKL HAY,

Between Point Carmel and Point Cyju'css, which are abotit three miles ajiart,
lies the small, rocky, and unsafe bay of Caiinel. At the southern ; xtremity is a
small cove, sutliciently land-locked and jtrotccted foi' small vessels. Li the
vicinity there is an extensive (piarry of granite, and several small coastinj; vessels
are emjtloyed tor its transportation to San Fiancisco; but there is so little space
tliat they are comiielled t(» warp in and out by buoys placed at the entiance.
Point ('yi)ress. the iu)rth point of the bay, is low, and cov<'red with <'ypress to the
Avater, and is the lirst wooded i)oint met with in coming ftdui the southward. Tlu^
upi>er biiinches of the trees are spread out 1\\ the iutluence of the strouf,^ prevail-
ing winds, and |)resent a llat or undtrella-like aiti)earauce.

The Mission del Carmelo is situated but a short distam-e from tbe shores of
the l)ay, and can be seen in certain directions from the water. Alter the al':)lish-
ment of the Society of Jesus in Lower California, by the I'^uiiH-ror Charles 111 of
Si)ain, with the tran.sfi'r of the administration of the ndssious to the Dominican
monks, and of the ))roperty to the I'^ranciscau <u'(l' r, the Visitiuloi- Don .losef de
Galves, of ihe latter (uder. in .Iidy, l7(iS, visited San Diejjo and Monterey, foi' the
purpose of otalilishinj;' missions. On the .'{d of Jii'.v, 1770. he founded that of
San Carlos d( ^lonterey, now usually (.«'Jled the Carnu'l ^Mission.

The naiue IJio Carmel was ajiplie I t(t the lauall stream ;^'niptyin<r into Carmel
JJay, by Viseaino, in Deeendter KittL*.

From Point Cypress to Point Pinos the <;enerai direction of the shore is north
three quarters east, aiul the distam-e four miles.

POINT PINOS.

This ca]»e makes out as a low roundiufj point, brinninj; the pines, with which
it is covered, within u quarter of a mile of the shore, oil" which the rocks make out
a quarter of a nule, and the line of three fathoms nearly half a mile, when th(i
depth suddenly increases to ten (»r lifteen fathoms, and at a mile reaches forty or

4G COAST PILOT OF CALIKOUXIA.

forty (Ivc fiithonis. The tli.'fc fiitlioiii line lollows tin* slmro witliiii ii lliiid or liiilf
a iiiih; inti» Montcroy, wliilst outsidci of that line tlic dt'iifh iiicronsfs as suddenly
as otT tilt' i»oiiit. Vessels should always give I'oiiit I'iiios a }jood berth, as a very
hea\y swell almost iiivariahly sets upon it. This ])oint is the iiortheiii tenniiia-
tioii of the loiiji and t-levated ranj^e called Siena de Santa Liieia, extending soutli-
waid a.id lorniing the bold rocky coast line to Sun Luis Obisi»o.

I'OINT VINO.S MGUT-lIorSK.

This is a secondary sea-coast light, situated upon the northwestern |)art of

Point IMnos, at the lace of the growth of piiu-s. The building is a gniy gianito

dwelling, one story in height, surniounte<l by a tower and lantern, which is thirty-
five feet above the ground. The illuminating apparatus is of the third older of

T''i'esnel, and shows a find liijht of the natural atlin; from sunset to -iiuirise. It
illumimites about four-lifths of the hori/on. and is elevated niiu'ty one feet above
the le\el of the sea. During ordinary clearness of the atmosphere it can be seen
from an eleviition of —

10 feet at the distance of 14.r» miles.

L'O feet at the distance of KJ.O miles.

.'50 feet at the distance of 17.1 miles.

Its geographical position, as determined by the triangulatioii of the C iist Sur-
vey, is :

Latitude .'J(i .'57 ."il.S north.

Longitude 121 oo (»() west.

Or, in time " S 07 10.0

The inMmary astrononncal station of the Coast Survey is about half a mile
eastward of the liglit, and lias the following geographical position :

Latitude ;iO .'57 .'lO..! north.

Longitude 121 54 2.5 west.

Or. in time 8 07 .'{7.7

^lagiietie variation, 14° 58'.3 east, in February 1851, witli a yearly increase
of 1'.

A to]iograi>hieal sketch of Point Piiios is given in the annual report of the
Coast Survej' for 1851.

The general coast chart from Point Pinos to P)odega Head gives all the topo-
graphical and liydrograi)hical characteristics of the coast. It was published by
the Coast Survey in 18G2.

IJAY OF MONTERFA'.

Point Pinos forms the southwest jioint «»f this 1)ay, and Piinta de la Santa
Cruz (forming the western shore of the anchorage of Santa Cruz) the northwest

COAST I'lLOT or (ALIFOKNIA. 47

point. A lino Joiiiiiif; those two ijoints nins north 27° west, iiiiictcon nnd throc-
fi;;litli.s miles, inul the ^ficiitt'st width of tlii' hiiy, near tlic mouth of the SaliiiaH
Iiiv«>i', is ]iinc sintl tlirct- *'i;.'htlis mih's.

From Toiiit I'inos to tlic aiichornjic oiV tlic town of Monterey tiie eonrsc is
cast by Hontii half sontli, and the distance tiiiee mih-s. The shore towards i\w.
town is rny;;('d, ''omposod of granite, and covered with a heavy gr()wth of lir; hut
to the eastward of the town is a h)n};, san;ly heaeh, haeked by sand »bines of
sligiit elevation. For a distance of ten miles iilong this beach the line of tiiree
fathoiiis lii's at a distance of one hunched and tilty yards olVsiiore, the water deci)-
euin;;' rapdly beyontl that, and the bottom almost everywheie hard.

Vessels .oming fnnn the northward, bound to Montt'rey, follow the coast from
Poiid Ano Nuevu to I'oint Santa Cruz, then run well into tlie bay, but not too far,
for fear of losing the wind, and to avoid the set of the heavy swell rolling towards
the beach. Ticaving l*oint Santa Cruz and Ivcejdng on a southeast by east cour.se
about lifteen miles will bring ves.sels int(t twenty live fathoms, aiul nearly two
miles from the beach; thence a south course for eight ndles will bring them to the
anchorage in ten fathoms, and half a ndle from the landing. Tlie.se precautions
are nece.s.sary, because Point I'inos, with the wliole bay, is frequently enveloped in
a den.se fog. Very often the coasting steamers have to run for the beach, and
then be guided by the rote to the anchorage. La Terou-se says he heard the rote
when one league oHthe .shore.

A direct course from i'oint Afio Xuevo to the anchorage is .southeast '"df
cast, and the distance thirty-six and a half nnles. From I'oint I'inos to Point
Ano Nuevo the bearing is north 47° we.st, ami the distance thirty-four ndles.

15y ancluning well in at the western side of the anchorage ves.sels will
avoid iiuu'h of the swell that comes in with the heavy ncnthwest wind.s, but never
sullicient to make any berth there dangerous. In heavy .southerly weather I'oint
I'inos breaks the swi'U, but the wind draws very strong over the anchorage. The
water .shoals from fifteen to three fathoms in a distance of three hundred yards,
and the lead should be u.sed to avoid running in too far.

AVhen the California mail steam.ships stopped at Moiderey they frecpu-ntly
ran outside of I'oint I'inos, or in very dangenuis proximity to it. This led to their
firing a gun when approaching the harbor during foggy or dark weather, and upon
the report being heard at the f(Ut a gnu was fired in au.swer, and the exchange
kept up nntil the steamer was safe at her anchorage. We were encainjM'd at
I'oint Pinos when the steamship Carolina was brought in by this means, after she
had got nearly as far down as Oarmel Bay.

The approximate geographical position of the end of the wharf, abreast of the
custom-house at ^Monterey, is:

O ' "

Latitude 30 ;?(> 1 1 north.

Longitude 121 5L' L'7 we.st.

h. m. s.

Or, m time 8 07 L'O.H

I ■!

COAST riLOT OF CALTFOEls^IA,

Thhs. — The corroctod ostiiblishinciit, or moan iiitorviil tu"t\vo(Mi tlio time r)f tho
moon's trjuisit iiiid the time of liijili Wiitcr, is 10//. 'l'2i)i. The iiiciiii rise iind fiill
of tides is .'5.-t feet ; of spriiij;- tides, 4..'! feet ; ;ind of iieii;; rides L'.."i feet. Tlie mean
dnratioii ■■a' the Hood is (»//. 'Mm.; of tlie el»l», Hit. 'Jin,, and of tiie st.ind, ()/(. 3.">/h,
The av<'iaji(' difference between tlu' corrected establishment of tlie a. lii. and p. m.
tich'S of the same day is l/(. 44m. forhi^^Ii water, and l/(. 'Jiii. for k>w water. The
differeiu'cs, when the moon's (h-clination is {greatest, are 2/' iOiii. ind \li. liSw.,
respectively. The average dilference in lieij^ht of these two tides is h\ feet for the
hij;h waters, and 2.4 feet for the low waters, "When the nnwin's (h clination is
greatest these ditferences arc li.l* feet ami :>.7 feet, resitcctively. The averaf^e dif-
ference of the hijiher h- ',h and lower low waters of the same day is .")..''» t'ect, and
wlien the n\oon's de(!lination is .greatest, (»..'5 feet. The liij;lier high ti(h' in the twen-
ty-four hours occurs alMiut !>//. 'Mini, after the moon's ni>i)er transit, (soulliin,u',) ^vllen
the moon's declination is north, and ahont '2li. ~>Oiii. before, when south. The
lower of tl'.c low waters occurs ab lut se$Mi hours aftei' the liiglier hii;li tide. The
greatest observeil dill'erence Itctween the low waters ef one ih\y was 4..'{ feet, and
the greatest diU'erencc between tlie higlier high and Utwer low wateis of one day
was 7.$ feet.

To find the times of high ami low wateis, first coi)!i>ute the tinu'.'-. for San
Francisco, and from the numbers thus obtained sid>tract 1//. 44>h. for Monterey.

The town of Monterey ))rescnts a veiy pretty apjiearance as seen IVom the
water. lmm«'diately behind it tb" country rises in plateaus, diversified li\ hill
and valley, and beautifully dottetl by oak groves. It was the capital of (.'alifornia
while under fhe rule of ^Mexico, and foi' soi.,,' years after it became a State.

A l*oi,.iguese com|)any has been I'ornu'd here to engage in the whale li.->iieiy,
and even with inad«'(|uate means if succeeded in ol>taiiiing over sixteen thousand
gallons of oil (which sold lor twelve thousand dollars) iti less than a yeai'. Other
companies have since been formed ; their cruising ground is the bay of Mdiiterey,
and a sluM't distance to sea. ( >|)eiati(ius are caiiied on by means of bdats fur-
nished with bondt lances during the season, which usually last nine months — from
i\Iar«'h to Xovember.

Uegular comuuuiication is kept u|) with all i)arts (»f the coast by ste.mu'rs and
numerous sailing vessels. Stages cosumunieate with Sant;'. Cruz ami all the towns
to San Francisco.

Following the shore from the town of ^louterey, northward, it ]iresents a uni-
form sand beach running m-arly north, backed by low, dreary sand dunes, pro-
diicing sparsely fhe coarsest grasses and bushes, and entirely destitute of fresh
Avater. This waste extends to the Salinas Uivei, of which we I'cacli the great beml
at about nine and half miles IVom M(Mit<Tey, and only one hundicd yaid.^ from
the beach. From Toiid I'inos it bcai's nortiieasf by iiorlli (|uii!ier norlli. dis-
tant eight and a half miles. From this bend th;' river follows ilie Inie (•! the
beach, Just inside of the low sand dunes, for a distance of four and a halt' uuk-s,
and then disembogues. From Point l'im»s it bears n(M'th by east five-eighths east,

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKXIA.

4i)

and is distnnt twelve and three-quarters mile.,. This river hiis been desijtnated by
a variety of names — jm l>neM;iventura, Monterey, and Siilinas; but it is now jieii-
erally kii()\ni by the last name. It rises in the iatitinle oi" the IMedrns Blaneas;
one branch about twenty and tlic otlu'r tiiirty-tlii'ee miles from tiic coast. Tiiese
branehes meet at Sau Mij,niel, and tlience the stream I'uns jtarallei witii the «'oast
and behind tlK> Sierra Santa Lueia. From its mouth, wiiieh is only sixty yards
wide at lov water, to the entrance to the Rio del I'(ij(tro, or San Antonio, tlie dis-
tance is two it:;'1 a quarter miles; the shore trendinj; to tlie north-northwest.
The entran(;e of that river bears north by east, fourteen miles from Point I'inos.

From lu're tlie coast runs nortliwest nearly straij;iit to .Vtos Creelc, a distance
of sevesi or ei^;ht miles, and about six miles east liy north of Santa Cruz, with tiie
shor<' rocky and abrupt.

Nort. of the Salinas liiver commence rich meadow and table hinds, alVordinjj;
to tlie settler spots unsur])asscd fi>r productiveness, even in tile proiitic State of
(.'aliloinia.

A remarkable submarine vaih'y, similar to tliat oiV Point Ilueiicmc, has been
discovered, an.', to some extent tiai'cd (uit in tliis hay b\ Lieutenant Commanding
(now Commodore) .lames Aldeii, I'uited States navy. The head of tliis valley is
live-ei;;iiths of a mile .south of the mouth of the Salinas liiver, and the twenty-
fathom li'ie is only a (juarter of a mih' otl' the beach, the depth inereasing to titty
fathoii'.s, in the next quarter of a mile. At this di.stanee from shore tlu' twenty-
fatluun lines are three-eighths of a mile apart. Tlie general ilirectioii of the valley
for tlie next two miles is southwest half west, wliere we liiid a depth of one
liuiubed and seventeen t'nthoms, and the lilty-fatlioiu lines lie about live-eighths
of a mile apart ; tlience the valley runs about west, reaehing a depth of one hun-
dred and seventy fathoms in a mile, and two hundred unil forty fathoms in three
and a (piarter miles, with forty-two fathoms, less than a mile to tlie north of this.
Til'.' soundings are not numerous enough to trace its outlines in (h'ei» water ; hut
thM indications are that, for ten miles of its length, it runs south iHP west, with no
bottom at three hundred an<l lifteeii fathoms. The only available boat landing
upon the beach of the bay shores is at the head of this submarine valley. There
are no iiidi* atioiis on the land e" this peculiar formatiiui, except that at its head
the bay very gradually reaches its greatest easting.

An extensive valley calh'd the Salinas Plains, through which conies the Salinas
Kiver, extends inland from the eastern jiart of ..Monterey Bay, nearly to the ^Mission
of San Miguel, situated mi the plateau of the Sau Bruno ^Mountains. This valley
is said to be nearly ninety miles in length, and in breadtii varying from two to ten.
It eoiitaius some two hundred tlnuisand acres of good agricultural lands, and the
remaiiuhu' alVords exeellent iiasliirage for horned stock, luu'.ses, and sheep.

The bay of Monterey was discovered by Cabiillo in \r>V2. and called the Pay
of Pines. It was surveyed by Sebastian Vi/.caino in ItJOi', and the name wa.s
changed to I'uerlo de Moiile-rey, in honor of the Spanish viceroy of Mexico, Don
Caspar de Ziuiiga, Count de Monte rey, who disiiatehed the expedition.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOTimA.

It Avas used by the SpanisU galleons on tlieir return from Manilla to
Mexi<!0.

A preliaiinary chart of ifonterey Bay was ]niblislieil by the Coast Survey in
1857.

The line of equal mngnriio variation of la"^ oast cuts the ».'oast line of ^Monterey
I- ly in latitude 'M'P 45' north, about half-way between the great bend and mouth of
t1 e Salinas Kiver, and erosses the meridian of l-ijo 0' west, in latitude 30° 30' north.
1 ':is line moves annually southward about a mile and a hal£

SANTA CRUZ IIAUBOE.

'! !■

This harbor or anehorafte is at the northwest part of the bay of ^lonterey, and
is of very limited extent. It is proteeted from all the winds from the northward,
but exposed to tin? full sweep of southerly {jales, and many (-oasters have boen
driven ashore during the winter season. It is abimt three-quarters of a mile in
depth uorllnvard, l)y one and half niih's east and west.

Vessels eominj^' from the northward, after leaviiifjf Point Afio Xuevo, follow the
coast-line on a general course east-southeast for about eighteen miles. The shore
for this distance is abrupt, jagged, and moderately elevated, with a range of high
hills, or mountains whose summits in summer are almost continually enveloped in
fog. Skirting the shore at a distance of half a mile a depth of six to ten fatlumis
can be carried, and upon making Point Santa Cruz, the top of which is moderately
level for sonu' distance back, four fathoms are obtained within a (piarter of a mile
of it; round up and run along in five fathoms until abreast of the beach, where
good anchorage will be found half a mile from shore.

Vessels from the south in summer keep well into Monterey Bay, a) escape the
full force of the northwesters and the heavy head sea.

During tlie winter months anchor well out, so as to be able to clear the shore
westward of Point Santa Cruz in case a southeaster springs n[).

Landing on tlu! beach is generally disagreeable, as it extends out sonn- dis-
tance, but boats usually land at the embarcadero, at the foot ol' the btulf in tlie
nortliwest part of the harbor.

The beach is over half a mile in length, ami between its eastern extremity and
the blullF point empties the San Lorenzo Ifiver, a small stream running |i»ast the
town and mission, which is situated a mile inland.

A chart of the harbor and vicinity was published in tlie Coast Survey rei)ort
for 1854.

The country about Santa Cruz is exceedingly productive, and now thickly
settled. A steamer runs regularly in the trade between this place and San Fran-
cisco, and numerous coasters liud abundant freight from here and the I'ajarocoun
try to San Fianeiseo.

Kegular stage conununicatiou is uuiintained with San Francisco and Mon-
terey.

■I i:
I I

P-

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA. 51

Tlio socondary fistronoinical station of tho Coast Survey was at the top of tho
bliiir at tlic\'iul)ai'ca(U'X'(). Its geojirapliical i)ositi()ii is:

LiititiKie ■?() ni 20.0 north.

Longitude 12li (10 10 west.

h. VI. «.

Or, ill time 8 08 00.7.

All ('xaiiiiiiatii)ii for the location of a harhor lUiht has been nnuU', and tlie site
recommended to tlie Light-liouse Board by the Superintendent of the Coast Survey.

The liijih mountain, north 2.5° oast, twelve and a half miles from Santa Cruz,
is named .Mount Haclie, and attains an elevation of .'{,701 feet.

Ta/t'.s'. — The correeted cstablisliiiR'nt, or mean interval between the time of the
moon's transit and tlu^ time of liij;h water, is 10//. IS//;. The nii-an rise and fall
of tides is 1.1 feet ; of sprinj^' tides, a.o feet ; and of neap tides, 2.9 feet. The mean
duiation of the tiood is (>//. 47«(. ; of the ebb, .'i/t. 45Ht. ; and of the stand, 0//. 20w.
The average ditlerenee between the corrected establishment of the a. m. and p. in.
tiih's (»f the same day is 1/;. 44w. for hij^li water, aud 1/t. 2»i. for low water. The
ditVcreiices, when the moon's declination is {ifreatest, are 2/(,. 40»j. and 1//. 28w.,
respectively. The averaj;e ditlerenee in height of these two tides is 1.4 foot
for the high waters, and 2.4 feet for the low waters. When the moon's declination
is greatest the.se dilfereiices are 2.2 feet and .'{.7 feet, respectively. The average
dilfereuce of the higher high aud lower low waters of the same day is (i.O feet, aud
when the moon's declination is greatest, 7.0 feet. Tiie higher high tide in the
twenty-four hours occurs about 0/i. .Vim. after the luoou's upi»er transit, (southing,)
when the mooirs decliiialiou is iiortli, and about 2//. ~i\in. before, when S(Uith. The
knver of the low waters occurs about 7//. after the higher high tide.

It was oft" Point Santa Cruz that Cabiillo is supposed to have anchored on tho
17th of 2s'oveuiber ir>42, upon his return from the northward.

POINT ANO NUKVO.

From Point Santa Cruz to Point Ano Xuevo the distance is eigliteen miles, and
the general direction west by north threetpiarters north, at first curving to the
southwestward of that ccmrse, and then to the northward, until witliin tliree miles
of the J'ock oft Point AFio Nnevo, when the sh(U'<> curves well to westward, (for the
last mile to the southwest,) forming an anchorage protected somewhat against the
heavy swell from the northwest, and having a depth of live fathoms within less
than half a mile of the sluire, and from ten to lifteen fathoms at the distance of ii
mile.

At a quarter of a mile from the point lies a black, jagged islet, consisting of a
sloi)iiig ledg(> of rocks covered with a stratum of yellow clay about four feet thick,
and this again covi'ii'd with a mound of sand about thirty feet high. Upon this a
light house is to be built. The point itself is composed of rolling hills of shifting
sand, varying from twenty to «»ne hundred \W\ ill height, while behind them rises

I mi:

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA.

IV i! ■

the Santa ('ruz raiifjo of mountains. The coast tiail, wiiidi follows tho bcaoli from
tlic sdiitlnvaiil, licit' stiiUrs ui» tlic hills behind tho sand dunes.

Steamers coiiiinj; upon the eoast IVoni the southward in liiiek weather always
ondeavor to make the land near I'oint Ano Xuevo, and then follow the eoast to tho
San Kranciseo bar. On aoeount of its iiiii»ortanee hi this respeet a light-house was
recommended by the Superintendent o^'Hie Coast Survey,

The otf-shore souiidiiij;s from ^Monte'vy 13ay to the Farallones show that the
dei)th of one hundred fathoms t-radiuil.y leaves the coast. South of Santa Cruz
the depth of one hundred fathoms is found between eight ami nine miles from the
shore, and continues at this distance until nearly up with Point Afio Nuevo, where
it sud(h'nly increases to fourteen miles distant and thence runs northwest on a Vuw
lying live nules outside of the Farallones, The <leepest sounding was obtained
only eight miles from shore and twelve miles southwest three-eighths west from
Point Santa Cruz, and lifteen miles southeast by south one eighth south from
Pont Afio Nuevo. The dejjth was three hundreil and tliirty-live fathoms over
a bottom of coarse black sand and mud, and only one mile outside the one-hun-
dred-fathom line.

Black ^Mountain, in latitude .'57° 19', and longitude 121'° S', attains an eleva-
tion of 2,S0'J feet, and lies twenty miles north by east half east from Point Afio
Nuevo,

A map of the anchorage was published by tjie Coast Survey in 1854,

]\rany of the coasting steamers report their compasses alVected when close in
with the coast between Point Santa Cruz and Point Ano Xnevo. Although the
vessel may be princi})ally atfected in this locality by undetermined ocean currents,
influenced by the great sulunarine valley of Monterey I>ay, yet, the report of Dr.
J. B. Trask is that an extensive bed of magnetic iron occurs in this section, run-
ning down to the coast, where it crops out and exhibits a depth of several feet.

From Point Ano Nuevo tlu^ coast has a general direction mu'thwest for nine
miles to Point Bolsa, along a very rocky and bold shore with lifteen fathoms at a
distance of half a mih^ This is the Cai)e Tonrpiin of Tebeidcoff and others. At
the distance of tive miles from Afio Nuevo is I'igeou I'oint, named from the wreck
of the cli|)i»cr shij* Wild Pigeon.

The high nu)untain lying square in from Point Bolsa is Black Mountaiti, dis-
tant thirteen and one-half miles, and bearing north 5;?° east. Two miles north of
La Bolsa empties the Piscador, a small stream running through a valley of incon-
siderable extent. For tlu^ foregoing twelve miles the general formation of the
immediate seaboard is that of a table-land of three terraces, the lowest gradually
sloping from the base of the second to the coast, which is exceedingly rocky and
forbidding; the underlying stratum is sandstone.

From Pohit Ano Nuevo to I'illar Point, or Punta de Corral Tierra, forming
the south and western ])oint of Ilalf-nmon Bay, the general direction is northwest
by north, and the distance twenty-four and a half miles. Three and a third miles
above the Piscadtu' opens the San (.rregorio, another small stream, and two and

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKXIA.

ono-tliird inilos still further opens the Tiiiiitas. The seaboard between the valley
of the IMseador and that of the San (Jreyurio undiT^oes a strikin;;- chanjie both in
the character of its to])oj;vai)hy and its {•('•'lofiy- Instead of the tableland, we
meet with a si»ur of the Coast mountains runninjif into the sea, ami havinj>- an ele-
vatiou of six liundred feet within a mile of it. The shore-line and tlu' coast j;'en-
erally present a very broken and rugged a[)pearance, occasioned by the deep
gulches cut throngh to the ocean.

HALF-MOON BAY.

This anchorage is six miles south-southeast from Point San Pedro, and eigh-
teen miles south by east from the Gohh'U (late. The southwestern ])oint of the
bay is formed by a blutf table-land about oiui hundied and sixty feet in height,
called the Corral de Tierra, three hundred and twenty-tive yards south of which
stretch a number of black rocks, which show as one when seen coming nj) the
coast, but as three or four when approached from the northwest. The largest is
nearly as high as the bluff, and locally known as Sail Rock, or Pillar Itock. The
jjoint is known as Pillar Point, and from its southeastern extremity rocky and
foul bottom, marked by kelp, extends southeast one-third east, seven-eighths of a
mile, dropping suddeidy from fourteen feet to live fathoms. This is the inner
reef, and makes the bay available as a summer aiu'horage. One mile and three-
quarters southeast from the saiiH> part of the point, a narrow ledge of rocky bot-
tom, one-third of a mile long, ami marked by kelj), stretches in the sanu' general
direction. The passage between this outer and the inner reef is three-([uarters of
a mile witle, with rocky ami uneven bottom, from three and it (piarter to ten and
one-quarter fathoms. These ledges lie i)arallel with the Coast mountains, and with
the shoreline from which the outer one is distant one ami three-eighths mile.
From the eastern extremity of the point the shore I'uiis northwest by north for a
(pnirter of a mile; then noitheast for three-(iuarters of a mile, curving to the east-
ward and southeastward in a long bend, for two and a half miles to the month of
the Arroyo de los Pillarcitos, down which cories the oidy road crossing the penin-
sula of San Francisco, between the Lagnini de ilercedes and Santa Cruz. The
highest part of this road, which crosses a depression of the peninsula, is near the
Coast Survey station "Itidge," which is one thousand and ninety-three feet above
the ocean, and but a few feet higher than the road. Tin; outer reef is nearly
abreast of the Pillarcitos, from which the (!oast runs south four miles to iliramon-
tes Point, which is south -tso east, live miles from Pillar Point; thence to the
mouth of the Tunitas the distance is fonr miles southeast. The greatest extent
of the bay may be said to be between Pillar and Miramontes Points, but the part
near the fornuT only is available.

About two and a half miles along the coast, northwestward from Pillar Point,
a dangerous ledge lies ab(mt one-half mile otf shore. It lias ten to fifteen feet
upon it, and mu(;h broken water around it. Detailed examinations might develop
less water. The sluu'e Itehind it has a low bluff from twenty to sixty feet high,

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

with ii broad, flat valley bohiiul it, so that vessels, in hazy or dark weather, may
mistake their distance Iroin the shore.

The sonndiiifis between tlie roeky ledges and the shore arc qnito rognlar,
decreasing from nine lathoms to three fatlioins at h'ss than a quarter of a mile
from the beach, with sandy bottom. The jtassage to tlu^ anchorage is between tiie
inner and outer reef, with the high, bare-topped mountain bearing a little north of
east, and rillar Point open to the westward. This mountain is steep, with strag-
gling redwoods on its Hanks, and the sumuiit bare. It is locally known as P>ald
Pate; but, on the Spanish grants, as Cumbra de las Auras. When inside the
reefs beat up until IMllar Point bears about southwest, distant half a mile, and
anchor in four and a half fathoms, hard saml. With light southerly winds a
heavy swell sets in ; but upon the approach of heavy sontheast weather it is neces-
sary to go to sea.

The nmss of redwoods cresting the mountains of the peninsula cease abruptly
abreast of Miramontes, and only stragglers are seen to the northward. They are
a good mark frn- recognizing this part of the coast when coming in from sea.

Around Ualf-moon Bay is a limited extent of agricultural country at the sea-
ward base of tho mountains, and small coasters carry the produce to Sau Fran-
cisco.

About one mile along the coast to the northwestward is a small boat harbor,
one hundred yards wide, formed and protected by outlying rocrks, and having
three and a half fathoms in it. In the autumn months it is u.u'd as a wiiiiling
station. About a thousaiul barrels of humpback oil were obtai.ied in the fall of
1803.

Point »S\<H Pedro lies northwest by north ic-quarter nortii, thirty miles from
Point Afio Nuevo, and south by east from Point Lobos, at tlie entrance to the
Golden Gate. It is a black, bold, rocky pronu)ntory, over tive hundred feet high,
having a high, large, jagged rock at the northern part, and is a prominent and
excellent mark for making the entrance to San Francisco. The priiicijtal rock is
nearly a hundred feet high. Its south face is w hite, and shows the line of stratitl-
cntion plainly. From the west the dip of the strata shows about sixty degrees to
the northward. It is connected with the main by some low rocks. Ilalf a mile to
the northeast of the point is the valley of San Pedro, from which the point takes
its nanu\ Southeast from Point San Pedro the hills rise rapidly, and attain a
height of one thcmsaml nine hundred and eighty feet at Moutara Mountain, three
miles sontheast by east from the point.

When Point San Pedro bears southeast, five miles distant, with the rocks off
it hidden by thick weather, and the top of the ridge covered with fog, it may be
readily known by a single pyramidal hill rising abruptly and breaking the general
slope of the mountain towards the southwest. As the fog lifts, or the point is
ai)i)roaclicd, the rock will be seen inside, or to the eastward of this hill; and the
low bluft" towards Ualf-moon liay will show outside of it.

From Point San Pedro the bar outside the Golden Gate i.s distant twelve

may

1 fi

COAST JMLOT OF CALIFOIJNIA.

milcH, and from Toiut Alio Nuevo if is forty tnilcs upon a iiortlnvcst l>y north
course.

The ran}j;(' of mountains forming the northeastern shore of Mdiiterey |{ay,
and exteiiiliii},' to Santa Cruz and Point Afio Nuevo, is railed Santa Cruz.
Thcnee nortliward to tlie (Jolden (late, and forming tlie peninsula of Siui ['"ran-
eisco, by bounding tlie bay ou the west, the mountains are known as the San
Franeiseo or San Hruno range.

The extent of shoreline from Point Concepcion to P<iint Boueta is about two
hundred and eighty-six miles.

BAY OF SAX FRANCISCO AND APPROACHES.*

This bay atVords the tinest ami most eomniodious harbor on tiie Pacific eoast
of t\w U^nited States. From its discovery it has commanded the admiration of
navigators, and, since the wonderful rise of California, has well sustained its repu-
tation. Its geograi)liical ])osition, its size and depth of water, its noble eidrance
and l)old shores, the Sacramento and its tributaries draining the rich agricultural
valleys anil auriferous slopes of the Sierra Nevada, the magic city ui»oii its shoics,
and the salubrity of its elinuite, have conspired to make it em[»hafically the port
of the Pacific.

The (loldeii Gate is the entrance to the bay, and presents the character of a
great cleft or fissure in the seacoast range of mountains, thereby connecting the
bay of San Franciscto with the Pacific Ocean. On approaihiug, it is dillicult to
imagine that a deep channel lies ahead, so clear is the atmosphere, and so well
defined the Contra Costa mountains, behind the bay. Both shores are bold,
broken into jwints, and rocky; but the northern is much the boUh-r, rising almost
]ierpeudicularly from the water, attaining an elevation of about om; thousand feet,
but a shoi't distance back, and in seven miles rising to two thousjind six hundred
feet. On the south sith', between the points, are stretches of low bea<;h backed by
rising ground; tin' lulls are undulating and of moderate elevation, increasing very
gradually in altitude to the southward, and reaching a height of oiu' thousand
three hundred and fifteen feet ou the San Bruiu> Mountain, seven miles southeast
of Point Lobos. The chart of San Francisco entrance, by the C(»ast Survey, shows
the bold and characteristic topography of the vicinity of the Golden Oate, while
the Coast Survey chart, showing the ai)[)roaches and entrance to San F'rancisco,
gives all that can be desired by the navigator.

Inside the bar a vessel may anchor anywhere, and the depth of water
increases gradually to twenty-live fathoms on the line Joining Points P.om^ta and

*TIie Kcnoial count oliart, from Point Pinos to IJoilcf^u IIi'iul, ijivcs all the cliaractiiiisrics of the
topojirapliy and liyilrojrrapliy of tlio approat'lics and bay of 8an I'lancisLo. It was pnljlislicd l)y
tilt' (.'oast .Survey in iHUvi.

Tiicn! ari^ bclon<;inj; to San Francisco four iirst-class pilot-boats, and fifteen li<'ensed jiilots.
Two boats aro always ciiiisin-,' outside, frequently as far as lifteen miles from Hie land in clear
weather. Diirinj,' a fog they cruisn noaror the bar, bein;^, in that ucighborhood, most likely to fall
in with vessels.

COAST PILOT OF CAlJFOIfXI A.

Lobos. Tlic Heal IJocks olV Loltosbcar suiitlioast by south one (|iiartor soutli, distant
two and onc-cijfhtli miles fntin fJoiit'ta, j^iviiij;' ample widtli between the hea<ls.
Jnsi»h' this line the dei>tli increases rajiidly to sixty-nine lathoms in the narrowest
l>art of the entnince, Ixtweeii I'ort Point on the south and Linu' Point on the
north, where the width is one mile, and the bearing of the latter south by east
tliree quarters east from the former. Thence the bay opens well to the nortiieast,
ami the soundiiii^s ^nadually decrease. \o hiihlen dangers have been discovered
outside the line between Lime Point and Fort Point. Deep water exists arouuil
the 3Iile Kocks between Point Lobos and Fort I'ttint.

Even without artitieial safe;;uards ami pilots, the Golden Gate would be (me
of the very safest entrances, as i)ructically tested by the earlier navi^^ators, and
by the many thousand vessels tii.it safely entered and left it in tin; earlier years of
California's development. Yet we lind that Peechey (vol. II, i»a,L;<' .'») says: "The
reef of rocks lies three ([uarters (»f a mile from Point. Poneta, while sonn- scattered
rocks, with deep water around them skirt in;;' the shore on our right, (upon entering,)
marked that side also as dangerous, so that the entrances may be justly considered
(hingcrous.'' It is dillicult to i)roperly chanwsterize such an erroneous judgment.
There is no reef off Point Poueta, but the deepest channel is close around it.
The -Mile Itocks are above water and have deep water around them.

rOINT UONKTA.

The north head of the entrance to Ban Francisco Pay is formed by this point;
a narrow, precijutous, rocky cape, nearly three hundred feet high, and stretching
from the light-house about half a nule to the southeast. Pehind it the mountains
rise rapidly to an elevation of one thousand live hundred feet. During the dry
season the de))osit of sea birds accumulates in such (juantities on the ridge outside
of P>oneta light house as to make the blulf show white, but the first heavy rain car-
it oil', and then, thn»nghont the rainy season, the point exhibits its natural color
and appearance. There are no dangers oil" the i)oint, the line of three fathoms
rarely extending three hundred yard.-: from any ])ortion of it. AVhen the clipi»er
ship San Francisco was lost on tiiis head, we are told that she first struck the 6/«/f
inside the heads, was carried by the currents arouiul the ])oint, and then cast
ashore on the (nitside. The reef, or line of sunken rocks, stretching out three-
quarters of a mile upon sonu^ inai).s,* has no existence, and oidy .serves to mislead
those unacquainted with the locality. From live to six fathoms can be found on
every side within a lifth of a mile.

roiNT nONETA LIGIIT-IIOUSK.

The building is situated m-arly half a mile, from the extremity of the point,
and consists of a brick tower painted white, and surmounted by a lantern ])ainted
black. From seaward it is seen projected against the dark, high hills behind it,

*"The reef of rorks lies tliroe-qiinrterH of a luilo from Point Uoiicta." — IJeecbey, vol. II, p. 3.

Hi' iiiiiy liiivc iiiisl.ilvcii tlKMinTciit lips lor lircakorM.

1^ ^'1

I 'i-

11 ;|:i

isri,,iiii=isam>jMJi vjMvxjii.a^jimsummgmmmmmim

COAST I'lI.OT OF CAMFOILMA.

iind in clrjir wcjitlici' it is ii very pliiiii (ihjcct. Tin- ilitiinitiii

.scckimI order of tlii' system of l-'resin

tiiij;- ;i])iiiir{itus is of the

lis first exliihite<l Ai>rii ;U>, IS.V), :iii<l

shows ii Ji.ml [if/lit of the luitnml color from sunset to sunrise. It iliuiniiiates live-
sixtiis of tlie iiorizou, iiutl is eh'vatt-d iihout three Iiundred aiul six l'e<'t above tho
level of the sea. Duriiif;' oi'ditiarv eoiiditions of the atiiios]ihere it eaii be seen
from an elevation of —

10 feet at a dislaiiic of l'.!.*! miles.

1*0 feet at a distance of 2.">, 1 miles.

.'{0 feet at a distanee of l'(i.;; miles.

.")() feet at a distance of L'S.l miles.

Its ■;-eo«Tai)Iiical ))ositioii, as det<'rmimMl l)\ the trianynlation of the ('(.asf
Sui vev. is:

Latitude

.57 4!> o;i.7 north.

l-onuifude !•_»•>

;!() ."iO.;! west.

i >v, in time

s 10 (»;!..|.

.Mi

i;;netic variation l.')-

( ast, in

S.-)-', with a ])resent yearlv increase of 1'

Fiom the li^ht at Point Umx-ta to that on Foit Point the dist;

ince is two and

two-thir<ls miles, and the liearin'; east

)ne-(|uartei' north

l'()(ilU;i.l, AT I'OIN'!' 1!()N];tA.

The bell, with the machinery.

on the blnll'Just in advance of the liijht-house tower,

is in a tVanu' biiildinj--, open in front, and placed

died and seventy feet above the level of tli

at an elevation of two luiii

c sea. The bell weij-h

s one fhousaml

ti\c humlred jtonnds, and dnrim;' fo""v and thick

weathei' is sliuck six bl

intervals of sixteen seconds each, followed

ows, at

The /(';j (/nil iif I'oint I,

l)y a i)anse of forty-four seconds

hdl-lumi* outside the bar, .March IS, 1,S,"),S. It

onria has been discontinued siinte the pi

here the desii;ii (»f tin' foi;'-

iciny- of tin
may not, however, be amiss to stati

nn.

A twenty four |)onnder was placed

>/(.s7', ami durin,y (bos or thick weather, either d;

U'ai' the liijlit

id half hours of .San Francisco mean tinu'. it enabled

y or ni-;lit, was tired at the hour;

vessels, belbre reachin

e bar, to f;et the bearinj-' of Point Poneta, ami, bv the loudi

better, bv the soundi

lU'ss of the repoit, or

i«s, to (orm an estimate of their distanee fioni it.

I'diN'j' I, Olios.

Tlie south head of the entiance to San Frai

three hundred and

of a si'coihIiii

Cisco P)ay is Ibrmed by this [toint.

seventy feet hij-h, upon which ('onj;i

CSS authoiizeil the erection

!/ sen riHisf liifht. Ppoii the rouud-toi.iied hill beliiml the point

erected a lainc fr;nm- buildin- Ibr a teleniaph station, whence the <■!

to th

c city of San Francisco. The (list tele^n'ajihic ii

I'aeilie coast

ectiic wires I'un

u'ssage transmitted on th

was over these wire.s. Southward of the head (1

U' saml dunes are con

['his lic'll-lioMt I

IllM lll'fll fCIMIIN I'll

.).S

COAST I'lLOT OI' CALIFOIJXIA.

s|»innMis iiiid I'jisily n'cof^iii/.cd t'ciitiircs in iiiti)i(iiicliiii,u tlic ciitriiiicc. Tlic strnii^i'
iiortliwcst suiiiiiii'i' winds, (liiiwinu- in dvcr the iiind, niisc tin- wliitc siind tVoni the
tlii'cc miles (»r hidiid hciifli, iiiid cjiii yiiii; it iidiind over tiic hill-tops, hiii'v jiiiiss,
hnslu's, iind scriil) oaU. 'i'lii- (|a;intily nl' s;iiid diixcn in I'lMni lliis liciicli is cnor-
iiKins, iind its iii'cnninlMlion li;is ^rcjitly iiKidilicd tlic t<>|iom'M|<liy of tlii' pcninsnlii.
The ;:t'nj;riii(liic;d position nl'llio site sflcclcd Cor the liijlii house, ws dctcnnincd
h\ tilt' lri;inL;idiiIion of the ('oust Snr\r\, is:

L;itiln<l(-. .
Lonj-itiidc

.'>7 Hi ."ill..", noilli.
IL'L' L",> .lit..-) west.

Or, in time S !t ."iS.d.

This i)osilitin is thirty two Icrt imrth, iind one thousand three linndred and
seventeen I'eet west of the outer telej^iaph station.

l'(t(i-'llMMIM;i UN I'lilNr l.<i|i(i>

l-'or the iienellt of their I'aiiaiiia shaniers in thieU and I

ouiiA wcatiii

r. th

I r

I'aeilie Mail ( 'oinpany haxc erected. ;iji<i maim a in in opcrali<ai. one of Dalioll'v foj;-
trninpets upon the jiitch of i'oint i-olios. li is phn'cd o\er a small Inaise contain
iii.ii the machinery, eylindei's. (*v:c.. and the mouth of the trumpet is alioni one linn
dred and tifty-two feet above mean tide. This is a trille too hi.uh to see under tin-
I'oji'; (he teh'.uraph •• loolvout." aliout lil'ty two feet lower, has thai .idvaiita^e.

Two tint of each lliice blasts are di\i(lcd to the northward and westward, and
the othei' to the southward aloii;: the coi-^t. In ISdS. in a thick t'o<;. with calm
weather, we wei'c enabled to ascertain t!ie xcssel's position ixilside the liar by the
bearin.u of the sound and the depth of water.

( )n the L'lst of .luly lS(i7. by special arrangements with the company, obseiv a-
tioiis were made to deleiniine the distance at which tiie trumpet could be heard.
Th,' weather was clear, and tlic wind blowing strong; from the west noithwcsi.
The last sound of tiie trumpet was heaid Ju>l outside the bar at a distance of si\
miles, witii I'oint Lobos tele^raiih l>earin,n east half nortlt. l''iom experiments
made upon tin- trum|iet at the station tiie time from the lM'^'inninll: •>!' one bhisl to
that of the next was tbund to be thirty live scccaids. whilst the duiatioii of the
blast was from tour and a half to hvc seconds. 'I'lie blast is not niiilbrm in
streiiji'th : it starts shrill, falls, and cuds shrill : but much of its uiiiformil,\ depends
upim the si/e of the steel \ ibratia' and the pressure of the air in the cylinder.

The tiiimpet is located between tlieClilV House and Point Lobos. It is seven
linndred and sexenteen yards north llKV-M-ast from Arch Itock, and two and one-
third miles south .">!•" east iVtmi I'.oiieta li^iht.

( MV the weslern face of roiiit Lobos lie a niimlierof black j'a;.;'.L;ed rocks about
titty feet hi,L;li, but all within the li\ e fathom line, and (dose in shore. 'I'liey are
ealleil thcvSeal K'ocks and o le of them shows a larj;e arch from iiarliciilar direc
tions. The outer one bears from I'oiut lioiieta southeast by south oncipiaitei

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

south, and is distiiiit two :\m\ ono-oiftlitli miles. From ittlu' gonornl troiid of tlic^
slioro is ill a lino towards Fort I'oiiit tor nearly a mile, to a short jiittiiiji' hi^di
point, oft whieh lie the ^Mih' Ivoeks. From this point the shore rnns well to the
eastward for a mile, graihndly treiidiiif'' to the north for a mile and a half to I'ort
I'oint. In tlie deepest part of this bend is ii long sand beach backed by small
hillocks rising from the general surface and slope of the hills,

MILE ROCKS.

Two rocks are lying olf Point Lobos, a short distance within the limit of
the entrance of the Golden Gate. They are small, near each other, and ha\-e
a height of lift<'en feet above water, with a good (h'i>th all aronnd and
ch»se to them ; but the current swirls und eddies about them in such a mannei' as
to render a near approach anything but agreeable or siilV; with a light wind.
These rocks are one-third of a mile to the northwest half west of the small jutting
j)oint inside of Point Lobos, and very nearly two miles southwest half south from
Fort Point. Vessels running in on the line of Fort Point and Alcatraz Island pass
half a mile northward of the outer and larger rock. A good range to enter is to
bring Alcatraz light-house, to bear northeast by east half easr, opi'u well to the
northward of Fort Point light-house and steer for it. This course will take you
half a mih' to tlie southward of Point Uoneta and one-third of a mile to the north-
ward of Fort Point, and will leave .Mile Rocks one mile to the southward of yott.
The rocks bear almost southeast from Roneta light, and distant one and seven-
eighths miles. They were called " One-mile Rocks " by Reechey in November 18UG.

FORT POINT.

This is on the south side of the (iolden (Hate, bearing northeast by north one-
quarter north, two and three-quarters miles from the Seal Rocks oil Point Lobos,
and from the south end of Point Roneta. It was fovmerly a Imld, narrow, jutting
piounmtory of hard serpentine rock, one hundred am! seven feet above high water,
and surmoimted by a small ^Mexican fortification called Fort Rlanco. The view from
the point was one of the finest in the harbor; but the whole headlaml has beeu
cut down to within a few feet of high water, and increased in area to form a large
fortification mounted with guns of the largest range and caliber. Upon the liill-
si<le rising Itehind it are houses for the accommodation of the c<nnmandaut, olU-
eers, s(>ldiers, and workmen. Eastward of the ]ioiut is a long substantial wharf,
Consti'ucted for r«-ceiving stores, ordnance, iScc. Sevei-al large vessels have been
lost <>n Fort Point by venturing too clos«^ during light airs and strong iiTegular
currents.

FORT POINT LIGHT-nOUSE.

Tlis is n W(MMh'n iuiildiug, painted white, and situated on the northwest bas-
tion ol ti'e fort, and rising about twenty feet above the parapet. The illuminating
apparatus is of the tilth order (»f Kresuel, and shows ii Ji.ir<l li(iht<>filnnatur<il

^'i

f50 COAST PIIiOT OF CALirOKNIA.

color fron sniisot to sunrise. It is oifihty-oi^ht foot above the level of the sea, and,
(lininij: oi'dinary states of tlie atinosphore, can be seen from an elevation of fifteen
feet at a distaiiee of fifteen niiies. The angle of visibility seaward is bounded by
the extremity of Point Boneta, boariii}'- west three-quarters south, and Point Lobos,
bearing southwest by south (juarter south.

The geographical position, as determiuecl by the triangulation of the Coast
Survey, is:

Latitude 37 48 31.0 north.

Longitude 122 27 37.8 west.

h, 7)1. 8.

Or, in tiuTO 8 9 50.o.

The light-house first built upon the high ])oint was taken down when the for-
tifieatiou oi)eratious commenced. Tlie light in tlie present one was lirsc exhibited
December lo, 1SG3.

The South Farallon light is visible from a vessel's deck when abreast of Fort
Point.

FOG-BELL AT FORT rOI>'T.

The iron fj'ame work su])porting the bell is on the west face of tlie west bas-
tion of the fort below the parapet. The machiiu'ry for tripiting the hamnu'r of
the bell is on the south face of the same bastion. The base of the bell is forty
and a half feet above the im'an level of the sea. The bell weighs one thousand
and ninety-two pounds, and during foggy or thick weather is struck by machin-
ery, livi' blows at intervals of ten secoiuls, followed by a pause of thirty-four
seconds.

Bell-hoat on f^nn Frauciseo liar, — A bell-boat formerly lay outside the bar;
but was removed some y<'ars ago. The English Admiralty Chart No. 2401, with
corrections to March 1805, still retains the note.

SAN FRANCISCO RAR.

The bar off the entrance to the l)ay of San Francisco Has a depth of five
fathoms at the lowest tides. Its genen«l form is that of a horse-shoe, commencing
four miles southward of Point Lol»os, stretching out gradually to six miles when
abreast of it; and when nearly u]) to the parallel of Point 1v<>iieta, running in
shore towards that point and t'or<n:i:g the " foitr-fathum bar.k." fnuii a <listance of
four miles (h)wn to one. The asoiiurt* breadth of tht- ba^ wirtiin the limits of the
six-fathom curve is about one mile. It falls ofll' «>utside lo i*»Ji fathoms in half a
mile, and deepens gradually inside. Not loss than five fxrtionis exist over tuc bar
when Point Uoncta light bears between uortheasJ tn east half east, and norili by
west one-third west.

A vessel should not inchor upon the l>ar if she can ixissihh avoid i*^ ; fre-
quently a heavy swell sets in without wind, and if t!ie <urreiif is running •strong
ebb, it iillows little chance of escaping from an uncomforlabie lierth.

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORXIA.

Tho flood tide makes on the bar about sixty-one minutes earlier than at San
Francisco.

It has been given as a rule for steamers approacihiu"- in thick weather, to run
for the bar as nearly as they can estimate, keeping the lead going until they
strike Ave fatlioms, and run on until the depth is increased, when tlie armed lead
should bring up gray sand with red specks, and they may conclude themselves
witbin the bar. It has, however, been ascertained, that these peculiarities of
bottom exist also outside of the bar.

The fog sometimes stands like a wall outside of a line from Fort Point across
the entrance; while the bay inside is beautifully ch'ar. Alter the greatest heat of
the day is passed ths fog creeps in and envelopes land and water.

The western and seaward end of the four-fathom bank is on the range of the
south end of Point P.oneta on Fort Point light.

Point Boneta light bears east by north one-eighth north, distant three and a
half miles.

Outer telegraph station on Point Lobos bears east by south one-eighth south,
distant live aiul a quarter miles.

The highest part of the western ridge of Table Mountain bears north by
west one-eighth Avest.

Tliere is a sixjt having but three and three-quarter fathoms H])on it outside
this buoy, bearing southwest by south, and distant seven-eighths of ;i mile.

THE SnOKES OF THE GOLDEN GATE.

On the north side of tlie Golden Gate the shores are very precipitous, with
an occasional short stretch of sand beach at the base of the bluffs, atVording a
boat landing. Point Diablo is the first point inside Boneta, and bears iu)rtheast
by east two-tiiirds east, distant one and a half miles from it. Between these p^iints
the shore is iiulented about three-quarters of a mile, affording a boat landing <hiring
smooth weather for the light-house people. In the vicinity of Diablo the faces of the
cliffs show of a lethlish puq.le (-(.lor. The rode is very hard and flinty, " traversed
by seams of quartz, ami has a banded or l)elted structure, so that if resembles
varieties of jasper. * * * ♦ It exhibits its stratified character most dis-
tinctly. It is also found at the cinnabar mine of New Almadeii."

The red si»ecl.-s; fVu..wi .... ^-^ - - "~~ ~'"^

i.'

I 'i;

60 COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

color fron siinsot to siuiriso. It is oifihty-oiftlit foot abovo tlio lovol of tlio son, and,
duiiii}; onliiiary statos of tlio atiiiosi»lioi'o, can l)o soon froni an elovation of liftooii
foot at a (listanoo <»f flftoou niilos. Tlio angle of visil>ilit,\ soawanl is boiiiidod by
the exti'oinity of Point Bonota, bearing west throe-quavtors south, and Point Lobos,
beaiinji" southwest by south (luaiter south.

The geographical position, as determined by the triangulation of the Coast
Survey, is:

Latitude 37 48 .-^1.0 north.

Longitude iL'li L'7 ;57.8 west.

h. m. 8.
Or, in time 8 9 oO.o.

The light -house first built u}»on the high point was taken down when the for-
tifieation operations commenced. The light in the pn'sout one was first exhibited
Uecember lo, 180,'3.

The South Farallon light is visible from a vessel's deck when abreast of Fort
Point.

FOG-BELL AT FORT POINT.

The iron frame work sui)porting the bell is on the west face of the west bas-
tion of the fort below the ]>aiapot. The niaohinory for tripping the hammer of
the bell is on the south face of the same bastion. The base of the boll is forty
and a half loot above the moan level of the sea. The boll weighs one thousand
and ninety-two pcmnds, and during foggy or thick weather is struck by machin-
ery, live blows at intervals of ton seconds, followed by a pause of thirty-four
seconds.

licllhodt on San Fmneisi'o B(()'. — A boll-boat formerly lay (mtsido the bar;
but was removed some years ago. The English Admiralty Chart ^'o. LiiOl, with
corrections to March 1805, still retains the note.

SAN .'RAN'CISCO llAR,

The bar off the entrance to the bay of San Fiaiicisoo has a depth of five
fathoms at the lowest tides. Its general form is that of a horso-shoo, commencing
four miles southward of Point Lobos, stretching out gradually to siv wiles when
abreast of it; inid when nearly up to the parallel of Point Houet.t, running in

TJetweeii the eastern extremity of the "four-fathom ba»k" and the shore, the
distance is sevon-oights of a mile ; and within this space is to be found the dooi»est
water for entering the harbor, but it would be daiiger<*us for a .va/Zf/u/ vessel to
attempt it with a tlood tide and light winds. While it is breaking on the bank,
only a heavy swell is Umnd through this oight-and-a-half-fathom ohannol, and
small sailboats have passed in safety win ii th«> danicl not try the bar. Vessels
froqiioutly use this channel wiioii the heavy weather on the bar wiuild luevent
them from ci-ossing it. Close in niidor the clitts. two or three miles above Bonota,
there is good anchorage in eight tathoiiis, with muddy bottom.

wmmmm^mm

COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA.

Tlio fld.Kl tide makes on the l)ar about sixty-one minutes earlier than at San
Francis*';..

It lias been jjiven as a rule for steamers approaeliinj;' in tliiek weather, to run
for the bar as nearly as they can estimate, keepiiij; the lead j,'oin};' until they
strike five fatliouis, and run on uutil the depth is increased, when tiie armed lead
should lain J,' np };ray sand witii red si)ecks, and they may conclude themselves
■within the bar. It has, however, been ascertained, that these peculiarities of
bottom exist also outside of tlip bar.

The fo<j sometinu'S stands like a wall outside of a liiu» from Fort Point across
the entrance, while the bay inside is beautifully clear. After the greatest heat of
the day is passed this fog creeps in and envelopes land and water.

The western and seaward end of the four-fathom bank is on the range of the
south end of Point IJoueta on Fort Point light.

Point lioneta light bears east by north one-eighth north, distant three and a
half miles.

Outer telegraph station on Point Lobos bears east by soutli one-eighth south,
distant five and a quarter miles.

The highest part of the western ridge of Table ^louutain bears nortli by
west one-eighth west.

Tiiere is a s])()t having but three and three-quarter fathoms upon it outside
this buoy, bearing southwest by south, and distant scven-eiglitlis of u mile.

THE SIIOUES OF THE GOLDEN aATE.

On tlu' north side of the (lolden Gate the shores are very jireeipitous, with
an occasional short stretcii of sand beach at the base of the blutfs, atfon'.ing a
boat landing. Point Diablo is the first point inside I'.oiu'ta, and bears northea .
by east two-thirds east, distant one and a half miles from it. Betweeu these iiMJuts
the shore is indented about tliree-tjuartcrs of a mile, alVording a boat landing during
smooth weather for the light-house people. In the vicinity of Diablo the faces of the
cliifs show of a reddish purple color. The rock is very hard and (linty, "traversed
by seams of quartz, and has a banded or iudted structure, so that it resembles
varieties of jasper. # » * » It exhibits its stratilied (character most dis-
tinctly. It is also found at the cinnabar mine of Xew Almaden."

The red specks found on the bar are <U»ul»tless derived from tiie disintegra-
tion of these reddish cliifs.

From Diablo the shore is jagged and irregular to Lime Point Bluff, four hun-
dred and ninety-five feet high, distant one mile, and bearing northeast three-
quarters east. Off this ]»oint are several high rocks, but they are so close to the
blutVas to be distinguishable only from certain directions. Fnmi Lime Point lUiiff
to Fort Point the distance is barely a mile, and the bearing south by east three-
quarters east. This is the narrowest part of the Golden Gate. Thence the bay
begins to open well to the noitlicast.

(hi the south side, eastwaid iVom I'ort Point, the shore is low. Hat, and

i I

62 COAST PILOT OF CALIFOllNIA.

marshy to Point San Jos^', distant two and a half miles, and boariiij? oast by
north. This ])oiiit is iiiodciiitcly high, Avith a i'ow houses cliistt'iiiij;' ii|)(ni it, and
is locally known as IMack Point. Oil' this reach was the "outei iiiichorai;*'" of
former navigators, and the Presidio of Sau Francisco is seen a short di.stance
bcliind it.

" It is a eurions and interesting tiict that the sand beach between Fort Point
and Point San Jose has been thrown up by the surf upon an extensive alluvial deposit,
which has the character of a peat bog or sw; jnp. When the tide is very low the
edge of this peat formation may be seen. Large masses of the peat are also
broken out during storms, and thrown upon the sand of the beach. This saiul
and all the loose round boulders, from three to eight inches, or more, in dianu>ter,
rest upon a foundation of the peat; and the continuation of the same .sub-
stance i.s found in the swamp or tlat nujadow land which lies insiile the belt of
s.iiul, and between it and the base of the sandstone hills. It is very diflicnlt to
account for the formation of this swamp under conditions like those at present
existing."

*' A strong current is constantly setting back and forth through the channel,
and the action of the surf constantly undcirmines and encroaches upon thebeacii,
so that the lU'esent action is destructive, and the swamp could not possibly have
been formed while tlie Golden Gate was open as we now find it." These remarks
are taken from a geological report of the coast of Califoi-nia, by W. P. Blake, esq.
(See Coast Survey report lor 1S55, page .'5S1).)

From Point San Jos(i to Xorth Point, at the base of Telegraph Hill, the dis-
tance is one mile, and the bearing east three-quarters m)rth. AH tiiis .space forms
part of the (^ity of San Francisco, and is covered with houses. The shore-line is
denominated the north beach, and from about the middle of the lowest part pro-
jects a long wharf over the Hats to three fathoms water. This has naturally
caused a great de])osit around it, ami now only four and a half feet of water can
be obtained at the northwest i)ait of the wharf at mean low water.

Telegraph Hill rises to a height of three hundred and one feet above the mean
level of the bay, and is covered with houses to its sumiuit wherever building room
can be obtained. The present plan of the city grades contemplates the entire
removal of this hill.

Tiu^ geographical position of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey,
upon its summit, is:

O ' "

Latitude ' 37 IS OO.l north.

Longitude 1122 2:5 i;».i west.

Or, in time 8 ;$;{..'{.

Ujuui this hill was foinicrjy erected a tel('gia|)h or semaphore, l»y whi?h intel-
ligence of the ai rival of xesscis off tlie Golden (!ate was made known to the city —
liciicc the name of III*' iiill.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

ALCATUAZ ISLAND AND LTOnT.

This is tlif first islimd tliiit is opciifd in fiitciiii;;' the (loldcii fiiit<', iiiid upon
it is (Mi'ctcd a lif^iit-hotisc. Tiir island is nearly six liiindicd yards lonji, in a wcst-
iiorthwest direct ion, by about two hundred and sixty in width, and rises to au
elovatioii of uiw hundred and thirty-five I'eet above hij^h water. The suniuiit is
flat, fallinj4' away {;('ntly on all sides for some distanee, and thou at the sides
droi)pin^ per[)endieularly. Upon tlie top exists a lliin layer of earth, but the island
is composed of a line-jjrained and " very compact sandstt»n<' of a dark bluish ^neen
color." Deep water-marks exist all round the island, and, willi the exception of one
or two places, the sides are so steep that a laiidinj;- is etVected with difliculty.
Extensive fortifications have been built upon it. At tli<' southeast side a small i)ier
lias been built to receive stores, ordnance, and materials. Off the northwest part,
foul bottom makes out about three hundred or four bundled yards.

Aleutroz TnUdkI li(jlit-h(t)i.se is built on the sunuuit of the island, and bears
northwest from Telej;raph Hill, distant one and two thirds mile; from Fort Point
northeast three-quarters east, distanee two and live-sixths miles.

The lij^ht is a fixed harbor light of the natural color, and of the third order of
Fresnel, illuminating- the entire horizon, and exhibited from sunset to sunrise. It
is one hundred and sixty-two feet above the level of the sea, and should be seen
under ordinary states of the atmosphere at a distancii of fourteen miles, or o it-
.side of the bar.

Its g(>oyraphical position as determined by the Coast Survey, is :

Latitmle 37 ii) )!().(> north.

Longitude 122 24 l.S.cS west.

h. in. H.

Or, in time 8 ()1» 37.3.

FOG-BELL ON ALCATKAZ ISLAND.

The framework su)>i)orting the bell is built on the southeastern extremity of
the island, close to the water's e<lge, and is elevated about thirty feet above the
water. The bell weighs one tlumsand and niiu'ty-twij pounds, and during foggy or
thick weather is striu'k by machinery four blows at intervals of eight seconds,
followed by a i)ause of twenty seconds.

Alcatraz is the Spanish name of the island; Beechey erroneously calls it
Alcatrasses.

DANGERS.

No hidden dangers have been discovered in the entrance outside of the line
from Fort Point to Lime Point IMutll, l>ut there are several inside.

rUESIDiO SIIOAL,

having three and a half fathoms uixm it, lies one and one-eighth miles inside of
Fort Point, and bears northeast by east quarter east from it, or three-quarters

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOllNIA.

of a imiiit oastwiud of the line lu'tAVccii tlio li<;lit« on Fort Point iind Alcatraz
Island. TIh^ slioal is altout seven Imndicd yards Iom}^- within tlu; lour fat lioni
eurve, and over half a mile Ion;;' williin the livet'atiioni eurve. It is very narrow,
shttws sandy l>ott(»ni, and lias deei» water all aroiiud it. Its geucral direction is on
the above mentioned l)earin}>'.

From the slioalest jtart the Presidio flafj-staH' bears soiitli half east, and
■vve have ventured to distinguish the shoal by that uuiue.

ANITA ROCK

shows above water at low tides, and is situated one ami one-sixth uules inside
of Fort Point, and bears east by north from it. It is only three himdred yards
from the low beach, and has deep water close around it.

"A spar buoy, ]>ainte(l red, with even numbers, has been placed in three
fathoms water, about half a cable's lenjith due west from the slioalest part of
Anita Kock. Vessels shouhl not ai)proaeh this buoy within a cable's lenjj,th, as a
strong' euricnt sets across the rock." It was named after the Uiuted States quar-
tenuaster's bark Anita that struck upou it.

BIRD OR ARCH ROCK

is a small pyramidal rock, about forty-five feet in diameter, thirty feet hiph,
and bcarinf* west three-c|uai'ters south, distant seveu-eijj,hths of a mile from the
light-house on Alcatraz Island. "When seen in the direction from or towards the
Presidio shoal, it presents a perforation at low tides.

STIACr ROCK

is a low white-topped rock, about half a mile nearly north-northeast from Bird
liock. From Alcatraz li{>ht it bears west by ncnth, distant one mile. For
about three hundred yards towards Alcatraz Island the bottom is foul and
irregular, but outside that limit ten fathoms are found. The rock sIioavs about
four feet above the highest tides, being theu not more than eight or ten feet in
extent.

WRECK.

The wreck of the "Flying Dragon," sunk early in 18G2, inside the Golden
(late, has been found in tlu^ track of vessels passing close to or between Bird uud
Shag Rocks. There is plenty of water around this obstruction.

From it the following bearings are given to determine its position :

Shag liock, north by east one-quarter east, distant six hundred and seventy
yards.

Bird Kock, east one-quarter south, distant three hundred and thirty
yards.

Bird E<X'k, seen from the wreck, is on with the highest point of Yerba Buena
Island.

COAST I'lLOT OF ('AMI'Oi:NIA.

ni-OSSOM KOCK

is ii 1<'(1;;(' liiivilij;' five I'fct Wiitrr upon il ;it Ilit> lowest tides, ;iii(l witliiii tlie
three tiilliorii eiiive is iilioiit tliree iniiMlred 1>\ two liiimlied \;m(1s in extent, with
(iee|) Wilier ontside tliese limits. A s|iiii- lnio\ , piiinted with red ;iiid lihiek hori-
zontal stripes, h;is lieeii plneed in Ibiir li(thoiiis water, aliont hall' a cable's lenj;tli
due s(»iitli rr(nn the shoalest pari of the led^fe. N'essels slionhl not appioaeli tliis
buoy I'roni any diicetioii nearer than a cable's length. In the wilder of ISti.'i-'til
it was torn from its mooriiijis diiiinj:' a lieav\ iioitlier.

Tins ledye bears east by south from Alcatraz li;;ht, and one and one <'i;^htli
mile distant, bein,^' almost on the liiu' Joining- the sontli jioints of Aicatia/. and
Yerba Ibiena Islands. I'roin the snmmit of TeU';;raph Hill il iiears north half
west, distant one mile.

It was discovered and named by Ileechey, after his shij*, in November ISi'G.

YEIIUA nUKXA ISLAND

is the laijic hijih island oiieiied to the oast and sontli of Alcatraz after
t'nt<'rin;4' the (Johh'U (late. The western point oi' this island is one and thrc*;-
quarters mile from Telej;iaph Hill, and the bearing- northeast by east. Its peak in
three hiimlred and forty three feet hij;h; the sides steei» and irrej^iilar, and rising
to a ridfie rnniiiii";' m-arly east and west. On the western or San I'raiici.'C > side the
Avati'r is very <leep close in shore, but from the northwest point a Ihree-fat hom baidc
extends one and one-(piarter miles noitlnvest by north, sincadin;;- to the eastward
for half a nule, and thenee rnnninj;' to the northeast point. The wreck of the
ship Clown Princess lies in live fathoms on the western ed^ic of this bank, and a
day mark, painted red, has been attached to her, coiisistiiij;' of a jilank seven
inches by three, thirty feet loiijj;, show ini;' fifteen feet above hij^h water, with a
board five feet loiijf nailed across just below the top. The followiujj bearings and
distances j^ive its position :

Alcatraz Island lij;ht-houso, west by south, two and a (piarter miles.

Telei^raph Ilill, southwest by south, one and seveii-ei.n'hths miles. ^

AVest end of Yerba JJiieiia Island, southeast by south, oiie-thiril south, three-
quarters of a mile.

East end of Verba J'.uena Island, east by south one-ipiarter south, one mile.

In early times this island is said to have been densely coveied with wood, and
was linown to navigators and whalers as Wood Island. Xow it has but a few scrubby
trees. In 18;J!) a large number of goats was placed upon it, and it receivtMl the
still popular name of (joat Island. On a recent map of California (1858) it is
called Ghote Island.

A>(tF,I- ISLAND.

When i)assing through tlu^ narrowest part of the (iolden Gate this large
island bears about north-northeast, and is seen as an island for a very short time

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

^ A*

1.0

I.I

11.25

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BIO

U 11.6

Hiotographic

Sciences
Corporation

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33 WEST MUiN <^rs<2Y

WEBSTIR.N.Y 14380

(716) S73-4S03

4P>

"^^

COAST riLOT OP CALIFORNIA.

■when in the iiaiTowost part of tlio Ciohlcn Gato. It lias an irrcjjular and hold
slioiv-liiK' of aliont five miles, and an area of oni' square mile. It rises t(t a lieijiht
of seven hundred and s;'venty-one feet, is eovered witli jfiass and l»ushes, and cut
in every dire«!tion hy deei) gulU-ys. As seen fiom the southeastwanl it appears
part of the nortliern poninsuhi, hut is divich-d from that on its northwest face hy
Ilaeeoon Straits, three-(|uarters of a mile in \vi(hh, liaviiij;' a depth of water
ranj;iny from ten to thirty fathoms, and a very stroiifji' eurrent. A narrow hij-h
juttiuf;' point makes ont from the southeast portitni of the ishind, 1)(>arin^ north
three-quarters west from AU-atraz Ishmd hght, and distant one and live-eij;hths
miU'S. From this liead the general trend of the southern face for over a mile is
west hy south toward Saucelito Point.

PUNTA DE LOS OAVALLOS

is a half a mile north-northwest from Lime Point IJlnft". The shore line hetween
them falls sliyhtly hack, and a very small valley makes down from the high hills
behind

POINT SAl'CKLITO.

From Point Cavallos the general trend of the shore is northwest by north for
one and one-half miles to Point Saucelito, with nearly a straight shore-line. One
mile from Point Cavallos is the anchorage of Saucelito, where men-of-war and
whalers formerly an('lH)red. It lies abreast of a few houses forming the town of
Saucelito, whence nuicli of the water used in San Francisco was formerly taken
in steam water-boats. North of this andiorage is a large bay, witii but a few feet
of water. From Saucelito Point to the western point of Angel Island the distance
is one and three-quarters miles, and the bearing northeast by east half east.

To Peninsida l\>int, forming the southwestern part of llaccoon Straits, the
distance is one mile, and bearing northeast two-thirds east.

The foUowing list of geographical positions in San Francisco Bay is taken
from the pubbsln'd reports of the United States Coast Survey:

" Outer telcyniph .v<«</oh," on the summit of the hill behind Point Lobos.

Latitude 37 40 r>().2 north.

Longitude 1U2 20 23.3 west.

h. m. ».

Or, in time 8 09 o?..!.

^^ Presidio," near the Presidio of Sau Francisco. Priamry astronomical
station.

C ' "

Lat itiule

.'{7 47 2!).S north.

Longitude 122 2(; lo. west.

Oi', in time 8 m 45.0.

Magnetic variation, 15° 27' east in February, 1852: yearlv increase, 1'.

f'ffiilfir and l)ol,l'
'•iN<'s to ii li('i;.|it
'"'•^''<'S JIIHl cifc
^Viiid it iij)]M'jir8
'fliwost fiiue by

^V Jianow Lif-h
, bcaiiii^r iiyj.jij

"J fivo-eiylitiis

over a iiiilo is

lino botwocn
tiio high hills

I>.v north for
leliiio. One
»-of-Mar and

tiK' town of
'"X'rly takon

'« il 1<'\V f(.,.t

f'i<^ "listance
oast.
Sfiaits, tho

«y is taken

5bos.

0-2 nortli.
5.^ west.

lonomical

' north.

west.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA. 67

TrJeyraph hill, noar tin? Sun Fnuioisoo ohsci-viitory. Piininry nstroiioiiilcal
station.

Lalitiid.' ''57 47 .lii.S iioitli.

Loiij-iladi' 12-2 2:\ U) w.-sl.

/(. HI. v.

Or, ill tinu' « <>'.» .">1'.."'.

Tlic liiyjlicst part <»t' tlic liill is tlirt'c Iiumlrt'd and one feet altDVf tlie mean
levt'l of tlu' Itay 7".t nortli, and !>".! west of tlic astronomical station.

Jiincnii, siinmiit of tlit; slij^lit hill northeast of Sontli Park. Secondary astro-
nomical station.

Latitndc -'57 17 (Mt.O north.

Lonjiitndc iL'li 'Jli ;W west.

h . HI . K.

Or, in time 8 0<» :50.1.

.SATI.INd DIRECTIONS FOll AriTvO\riIlN<t AND EXTKRfNG SAN FIJANCLSOO BAY.

In approaciiiii;;- the land in the vicinity of San Frant-isco, it i.s of fjroat iniimrt-
ance that accurate determinations of their vessel's i)osition should be often obtained
by shipmasteis, as tb;is and thick weather are apt to prevail near the land.

Ciiminiiffom the sitHtlin-anl it is customary to make the coast about Point ATio
Nnevo, (latitude :M° 07' north.) and then to follow it up to the bar, keei»inj>- about
four or live miles from shore. If the weather be fo;;';>y or thick, vessels should keep
closer to the shore, so as not to lose it, as there are no dangers between Point Afio
Nuevo and the bar. In ^ood weather i)ass Poini Afio Nuevo on a northwest by
nortli three-iiuaiters north course at about eij^lit miles distance, and continue thi.s
course until you are abreast of Point San Pedro, five miles olV, when steer nortli
one-(|uarter east for Point Boneta lij;ht -house until you are within live eijilithst.f a
mile of the south end of Honeta, and have Alcatraz li--ht-liouse bearin;-- northeast
by east half east of you open to the southward of Honeta. Now steer for Alcatraz
lijiht house, jiassiii^f nearly half a mile to tlie southward of Point 15oneta,and one-
thhd of a mile to tlie northward of Fort Point; and coiitiiuie tliis course until the
south end of Verba Ibiena islaml liears east half north, and you are lu-arly one and
three-quarters miles from Alcatraz. Now steer east half nortli for the south end of
Yorba nueiia, having- the southern portion of the town of Oakland visilde to the
Bouthward of it. This clears tlic i^Iossom Pock. On this course, when yon are
exactly between Alcatraz lijiht house and North Point, steer east-southeast alonj?
the lint of wharves, and anchor otV tlie northeast front of the city in ten fathoms
soft mud.* Put sailiuK vess«'Is should be careful in nsiii";- the course for xVlcatraz

* (KxtriK'ls from tlu' I{<');nliilii>im rif (lie niirbdf niiil I'ml "f Sun Fram'lwo.l
AiiTicir. 1. No vi'ssi'l sliiill 111' iiiDinTd ill tlu' liiirlicir of S:im I'lmicisi o inMicr tli:in live liiiinlvcil
yiiiils from ii liin' willi llii' fiiils nf llic wliiirvi's : tlic liMilxir iiiMstcr will, nii iiinilicalion. (|i'siy;ii:it<)
n piiiiMi' licrlh, mill ^ivi' tin' iii'ci's>tiir,v illicitioiis tor iiitMiriii}{, iicforillii;; tn the siiiscin of tli«' yi'iiv.
AitT. •-'. All miiNlt-rs imil iiiloLs an' iiotilird not lo amlidr vi-s^scLs within live limulivii viiids of a

j'li

0."^

COAST riLOT OV CALirOlJNIA.

li;;;Iif, as otiicrwisc tlM-v umy he ciirrii'd too dose to ilic mulliorii sIkh*', wImtc llicy
iirc iipt to In- lit'ciilmcil iiiitl Itiilllcd witli Viiiiiililc iiirs iiinl stroii;^' ciiriciit cildifs,
ami iiic soiiit'liini's ciirrifd iisliot'c. ( 'arc iiiiisl Im' laUni on llic (•Micr liaiid not to
apiiroacli I'ort I'oiiit tot* dose, as the i'linciits set uroiiiid it iir('j;ularl\ and with
}>'i-fat ra|)i<lity, and tlir hottoni is uneven and locky. Should the wind Itesolliat
tlie vessel cannot obtain ilic ran;;-e of the Iij;lit iiniiscs w itjiout taekin;;, tlicn she
inav cross the l»ar witli IJoneta li;iht lioiise heaiinj^' Iroiii iM>rth l».v west to noitheast
l»y east; j;ive Moncta a iicrtli of ii niih-, and \\he?i within the heads, with lioneta
abeam, <;'i'adually opeinii}; Ah-atra/. Ii;4ht house iiortii ot' I'ort I'oint until a xain of
the lattei', when pi'oci'cd as iiefore.

('oin!iitj/r(im the irrstiniril, fust sijilit Sontii Faralion linht house, (latitude .'{7<^
4L*' luuth,) which leave to the iiortiiwaid, and steer northeast Iiy east sevenfecu
iidles, whieli will iuin;;' you close to the bar, and you will have I'oit I'oint li;;ht
exactly ahead of you. Now briiii;' Alcatraz lifjht to itciir northeast by east half east,
when it will appear about midway between Toint I'.oiieta lijiht and I'ort Point lij;ht.
Cross the bar on this course for Alcatraz, and proceed as before dii'ectcd. Troin
South Faralion lifiht bouse. I'oiid Pxuieta light-house bears northeast by east, distant
twenty-three and two-thirds miles.

VomiiKj ffDiH Ihi' nortliiciirtl (iinl ircstiniril, lii'st make Point iicyes. which is live
hundred and ninety-seven feet liinli. and is in latitude .{S^ my north, and lon.i;itiide
12;{o (KC west. I'asN within two or three miles of it, iiut be caiclul not to j;et too
close; for altliou,L;h there aic tifteen fatlutms within a (piaiter ofa mile of the shore,
vessels are ai»l to lose the wind by j^etting under the jioint. I'rom I'oint IJeyes
steer <'ast southeast twenty-two and a (piarter miles, or until you open Alcatraz
lij;ht house to the south war<l of I'oint IJoneta, when you must sti'cr for I'ort I'oint
lijiht -house about east by north three (piurlcrs north, and cross the bar on that ran^i'e.
On this course when I'oint I'.oncta liyht house bears noithwest half north a little
abaft the beam, Alcatraz light will bear ntuthcast by east half cast, when you must
steer for it aiul proceed as before dirccteil.

DIUKr'noNS Foil VtlSSKI..'^ IX Tnif'K WEATIIKR.

Strangers aitproatdiing the entrance during thi<'k M'cathcr should do so with
gi'cat caution, carefully taking fretpu'iit soundings with not h'ss than two hundred
fathoms of line; and as soon as soundings are had within this depth they slioidd
stand oflaud on until the weather ch'ars, or a i)ilol can be had. The line of one
humlred ami lil'ty fatht»ms is distant four miles from North raralloii, lu'arly live,
miles from South I'arallon, twenty-f(Mir miles t'rom Point San Pedro, eight<'«'n and
a half miles from Pigeon Point, and seventeen miles from Poiid Afio Nucvo. The
Ticglect of this iini)ortaid precaution has caused the loss of several valuable vessels

lini' with tlir i'iiiIh of thf whuvves IVoiii N(irtli I'ohit to tli(> Tlnnl Street wtinrl", wliicli N|»iii'e iiiiist lio
kt'jit I'li'SH' for I lie ari'iiliiilli)il:!liiin nt' vi'NSi ', s !l|i|irn,'ieliill<; or li'!l\ iii;^ tlic » liiir\ cs.

Aim'. :1. All ncsscIs lyinj; ;il sinnlr uriclnpr iiinst li:ivc a ;;iiii(l ami siilliciiiil li;;lit slmw ii In siiiiii-
|>ai't III' till' rl<;;j;iii<i'. at Irast lit'li'iMi I'l'it alinvi' ili rl<, iliiriiit; tln' iil;;lit. Aii,\ vinlatioii nl' llii.s ai liilr
will I'i'iiiirr tliriii lialtli' I'oi' ilaiiui^^r.s in tlir cvriit til' eiillisioii.

COAST IMLOT OF CALITOliNlA.

and niiiiiy livow, Htcaincrs, in tliifk woatlior, arc siccnHtonicd, if tlirir on]Uiiins l»o
w«-li iii'>i(iiiint('(l \villi tlic ciitranct', to run closr alun;: tlit> coast, and *>ndra\oi- to
make tlx- land north of Point Saa I'cdro. running in until tlicy iiv\ aliout tittrrn
t'atlioMis. and tluMi lay a coursi' lor ihr liar, slioalin^' upon it to altout live t'allioiii.s,
and tlicn jxiadiiailv diTpcniii;,', wliilc tin* to^ ;;uii ,i;iv«'s tiuMU (lir direction of lion-
da li;;lit house. In tliis way sliipaiasters faniiliar with the entrance frequ<iitly
run in duiiuff dense fo^s; hut straiifO'i"'* "^'I'lidd never attempt it.

The I'nited Slates sloop of war Vincennes, duiiny:the ciiiise of the e\|»lorinij
expedilitui. aiuhoied on the bar in a calm, and, when the tlood I ide made it lii'ou;;ht
up a swell that broke over her.

In hcatiiKi Dill. v«'ssels start oi; the last quarter of the tlood, make the first tack
to tlie northward of the iilossoni I'oek, and weatliiT it on the second; liu'iieelhey
ke«'p between Alcatraz and tl>.' south shore, avoiding I'.ird K'oek. oiu' mile west ot
the south en<i of the island, anil ;;ivin;.;' a ^^ood beith to I'ort Point, past which the
ebb euirent will caiiy them lajtidl.N. (with a stionj;' tendency towards the south
sli(ne,)and a eou])le more tacks carrv them clear of the heads. If the vessel \h\
bound to the northward, and the weather shut in thick, with th«> wind to the north-
west, she makes ii tack olf shore to the sonthwanl of the I'arallones; if the weuther
be clear slioit lacks ai'c made olf shore until she woiks n|) to Los Peyes. because
♦ he sea to the leeward of that headland is much smoother and the current less;
then stands oil' uritil a course can be made for her poit.

Tin; WINDS.

It has been advised to wmk close idou<;' shore to northern polls during; the
siunmer norlhwesi winds, and take the chances of hind breezes to make lalilude,
but the attempt will double the leni^lh of any voya;;e. I>;illlinu- liuhl airs :ind
calms freipieiitly exist aloiij^- Ihe eoust, while \cssels several hundi<'d miles of. li:ive
stroiij;- norlhwest winds. Moreover, alon;;' the coast we know lliat Ihe current
frequently sets two miles per hour from Ihe northward, evcept ver\ close under
the sIku'cs. In our exi)erienee we never yet have met a wind olf the land norlh of
San l''rancisco, and \ cry ran-ly, indeed, soiilli of it, except in the rej;ioii of the
Santa IJarbara Channel. As u jieneral ride, it may be safely stated that the sum
mer winds follow tlu' line of the coast, nearlv, and ^^radiially draw towards and
over the laud. In winter, with winds from the southward, this is not so iiMiked.

From A|Mil to October, inclusive, the jtrevailinji wind is from the northwest,
ehanyiu^- to west in valleys opeiiinj;' upon the const, but in no case so stron;,dy as
throu}ili Ihe (ioldeii (iale. I>iiriii;;' the summer the wind sets in stronjf about 10
a. 111., iiicreasiii^f until nearly sunset, when it bejiins to die away. During; its heijiht
it almost re^nilarly brinj;s in a dense foj;-, which, workiiijf its way over the
l»eiiiiisnla, meets that already advanced throii;;h tliedoldeii (late, and envelopes
San Francisco and the bay by sunset. Asa rule, the breeze does not dispel the
fo;ij. If a fof^ exists oiitsid*', the wind is sure to briii;n' it in, but the heated earth
dissipates it for a time.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOHNIA.

Froin Novombor to ]\Ijirch tlic wind is fr<M|uciitl.v from tlio sontlienst, blowing
lit'in il.v, winkin;,' round to tiic soiitliwcst, witli ii hnav :ind Itrokon swell IVoni tlio
soulliwcsl, wt'iitlicr thick, liiinv, iind s(|iiidl.v; tli»' wind net niilVcfincntl.v ending
at noitliwcst, with an ngl.v cioas soa. DMiinj; lieav.v southeasters the sea breaks
npon the San Fnnn!isco bar, ch'an across the entrance, presenting a learl'id sight.
The sound can be heard at the anchoragi' in front of the city.

J)nriiig some winters a hard "norther"' will spring up and blow steadily and
strongly from om^ to tive days, with a clear blue sky, and cold bracing weather.
Winds rari'ly blow from points between north, round by the east, t«) southeast.

The further north we advance, the heavier blow the gales in the wniter. The
northwest winds are not predii-tcd by the baronu'tor, but those from the soutlicast
are, almost invariaidy; the mercury falling om^ inch lV(»m its usual heigid of
about thirty inches WluMi it begins to rise, tiie wind may be expected soon to
shift round by the west, and to decrease. Oidy in one instance during our experi-
ence has this failed, au«l that was otf the Strait of .luan de Fuca.

On the tops of the mountains bordering the coast light variable and easterly
airs are frequently experienced whilst the northwest winds are blowing freshly
along the seaboard. Upon Sidphur IVak, in latitude .'JS^ !(»', and twenty-six
miles from tlu' coast, we have had fresh breezes from the east-northeast, whilst
the usual northw»'st winds were prevailing otf shoic. On Ifoss Mountain, (udy
three miles from the sea, and rising L',li»7 feet from the right baidc of the Slavi-
anska Kiver, we Jbiiud variable airs when strong summer winds were blowing
below.

TinF,« AT SAN FUANCrS'^O.

As a general rule, there are upon the Pacitic Coast of the United States one
large and one small tide during each day, the heigiits of two succt'ssive high
waters — occuniiig one, a. m., and the other, j). m. of the same twenty-four hours —
and the iidervals from the next i)reeeding transit of the moon are very ditVcrent,
so much so that at certain periods a rock which has three and a half fe<!t upon it
at low tide nmy be awash on the nexi succeeding low water.

These inequalities (h>|)end upon the moon's declination. They disa])])ear near
the time of the moons declination being nothing, aiul are greatest about the time
of its being greatest. The ine(pudities for low water are iu)t the same as tor high,
tlumgh they disappear and have the greatest value at nearly the same times.

When the moon's declination is lutrth, the higher of the two high tides of the
twenty-four hours occurs at San Fran<'isc,o about eleven and a half hours after the
moon's transit; and when the de<'linatiou is south, the lower of the two high tides
occurs at about that interval. The lower of the two low waters of the tlay is the
one which follows next the high water.

The corrected establislimeid, or mean interval between the moon's transit and
the time of high water at Fort Point, San Francisco Bay, is iLVi. (iw. The mean
rise and fall of tides is .'3.0 feet; of spring tides l..'J feet; and of neap tides, 2.8

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOUN'.A.

foot. Tlio moan duration oftlio UimmI is (Hi. IV.Un.; of tlio obit, 'tit. 'Am.; and of the
stand, ."•l»«. Tiio avoiii;;(' dilVoronco botwoon tlio oonootod ostablisiinionf of tiio
a. Ml. and p. ni. tid«'s ol' tho sanio day is 1/*. -Sin. for liij;h wator, and (>//. .'{S»/. fol-
low wator. Tiio dilVi'ioncos wiion tlio moon's doolinal ion is j;n'iit(st mv -h. IWiii.
and (>A. I*^»J. Tlio avoiay'o dilVoroiico in lioi^lit of tlioso Iwotidos is I.l fret for
tlio liij^li wators, and 'J.'J foot for tlio low wators. Wlion tlio moon's doolinaliiiii is
jjroatost, tlioso difloroiioos aio 1.5 foot and 3.7 foot, rositootivoly. Tlio avora^o
dilforonoo of tlio lii^lior liiyli ami lowor low wators of tlio samo day is o.li foot, and
Avlion tlio moon's doolination is },Moatost, fl.l foot. Tlio lii^ilior lii;;li tido in tlio
twonty-fonr lionrs oooiirs about ll/<. liU'wi. aftor the moon's njipor transit, (south
in;,',) wlioii tlio moon's doolination is north, and about Ih. 'Jiii. botbro, whon south.
Tho lowor of tho low wators, iibout 7/<. aftor tho hij,dior hi^jjh titlo. Tho ^rroatost
obsorvod dilVoronco botwoon tho two low wators of ono day was o.li foot. And tho
groatoat dilloroiice betwoon the hiyhor high and hiwor low wators of one day was
8.5 foot.

The two tides of the same day are ^jfonerally nne()ual in proportion to the
moon's doolination. The time and hoiyiit eun be obtained api>roxima(ely from the
followin;' table :

MiHin's iippiT mi'i'iilian iihhhiik''

Mimiii'h ili^clinutlui.

lliyh wiil.T.

Moim's li)V.rr iiirriiliiin paflfuiKC
Lmv «iitrr. i lli::li wiilrr. | Low «;itor.

Iiilvrviil. j IIri;,'h. Iiitcrviil. lli'i|;lil. Iiitcrvul.

U. il.

GrcntcBt imrlli I 10 M

Zero } II 44

CiruaU'Ht Hoiitli I'J .'lO

Fret.

:>. :>

4.7
4.1

;/. J/.

n M

17 -St
17 OU

Fett.
—0.5

0. H
','.6

11. it.

\i M
11 44
10 54

Uiiuht. Inlirval.

Fffl.
4. I
4.7

.I. ,'■.

II. it.

I 17 (111
I 17.5
1 17 M

Huiulit.

Ffrt.
a. li

0.8
—0.5

The interval is to bo added to the time of the moon's ni(>ridian jiassa^o to
give the time of high and low water. The time «>f the moon's ni»i>or meridian
passage is given in the almanae, and the time of its lowor meridian pa.s.sage is the
middle between two sneeessivc upper passages. Tho heights are given in feet
and tenths, and show the rise above the level of the average of the lowest low-
waters; to whieh level tho soundings on tho ehart are given.

Spring tides. — At the full and eliaiige of the moon the high waters will be
0.3 foot higher than the above, and the low waters 0.1 foot lowor.

Xcap tides. — At th»' moon's lirst and last quarters tln' high waters will bo
0.3 foot lower, and the low waters will not fall as low by 0.4 foot.

TIIK SKASONS.

There are but two seasons on the raoitio eoast, usually denominated the dry
and the rainy seasons; the former oorrosi>onding to the Atlantic summer, and tho
latter to the winter; but mnoh error exists in regard to them, espooially as to the
auiouut of rain falling during the rainy season. The following totals of rain that

1 ^

73 <'()AHT PILOT OF C'ALIKOKNIA.

loll at San FiaiKMscn duiiii;; eacli raiii.v sfa.soii siiuM* 1H."»0 will sliow tli

at thu

yearly aiiiiiiiiit is iKit ;,'r(';it:

Diiriiij,' till' rainy svasoii of isr»()-',"il tliorc ffll 7.0 inclios.

*' " " l.s,"»i -'."»:» " i!».(> '«

«' " " isr.i.'-V»;{ " ;ii'.7
" " " i,s.-.;u7)i «' L'l.'.t '•

« « «« IS.-iI-Tm " L'|.;5 "

((

]sr».v.">(>
is.")(j-'r)7

is:

((

':.!»

i,s.v.»-()0

l.S«l-'«ili
l.S(;L'-'(i3

is(i;!-"(;i
ls(;i-'(M
ls(;.V(i(;
is(;(i-'(;7
isdT-tJs

Avcrafjt' of ci^'litroii rainy seasons.

1.M.7

L'L'.O
IJI.I

1(1.1

21.7

.*U.t) "

;5s.s "
llM'-'t ini'Iu's.

HHon S.'! (lay.H.

i!» "

(>'.)

The rainy season of l.S(il-*01i was rcniarliai)l(' for tlii' disastrous I'lTt'cts of tho
groat rains in Dcci-nilu'r ami Jannary. in the latter iialf of Dt'ccinlM'r, (»..'! inelics
fell; in the tirsi lialfof ■liinnarv. l.">.!» inches; and in the latter hall'of .lanintry,
8.."i inelies. At Sunora, Tnolunme eonnty, no less than 72 inches were re;;islered
between Novenil)er 11, IStil, and .Jannary 11, IStJi,'. Millions of dolhirs' worth of
projierty were destroyed in the Sacramento Valley.

It is a curious fact tlial tiie jiau;;*' at tin- reservoir of the Sprin^j Valley
"Water (vonipany, at the head of IMIlarcitos Creek, on the rid;;*' between Half
M()on I5ay and San Francisco Uay, sliows a rain-fall (Ifty per cent. ^M'eater than ii
similar ^auj^e on Uiissian lliil, in San Francisco, two hundred and ninety feet
above tiie sea.

The f(»ilowin<if table will show how the fore^'oin;; yearlj- aruouuts were distri
bated each nutnth, from November 1S."»(>, to the end of .June* 1808:

Mean monthly rain for .lanuary, inches, .1.27

((

" February,

" March,

" April,

" May,

" June,

" July,

" Au^^ust,

" Septembe

:;j

3Iean of winter, 14..'$1.

;{.i8

1.8i

.7.'> [ ^Feau of siuing'. o.7.">.

.0,

.02 |- Mean of summer, 0.00.

.04 '

CX)AHT IMI.()T OF CALIFOUMA.

Monii niontlilv rain for Ocfohor,

Illcllt'S

" NuvciiiImt,

" J)('t'('lulMT,

Ali'iiii of autiiiiin, .'i. .'lO.

(liviiifj .'I yciiily nvciii^ic of. .

.(».■)

All I'Xiiiiiiiialioii of tlu! oxtcinlt'd (iildcs IVoiii wliicli tlic above rcsnlt.s are
dcrivrtl, sliow that as a rule the ;;i'eatest depth of water I'all.s in Deceiiiltei, and
tliat (hiriii;;' the hitter liall'ot' liecoiuber and the lir.st hall' of .laiiiiai.v, oiie-luiirth
of the yearly averaj;-e falls.

There i.s a very notable abatement from the mi<ldle of .laniiaiy to the niiiidh^
of Feitriiary. In IS.'*! we notieed thi.s paitieiilarly when .stationed at Point I'iiios,
beeanse the above perhxl was iiiiieh proloii;;ed. In I.S."»:,', while observing;' near the.
Presidio of Sail Fianeiseo, we foiiiid this period to e\teiiil iVoni the eaily part of
.laniiary to near the end of Feitriiary. In I.S."»S-"(iil, nml '(il, and the eMcptional
jtart of ISliL', we found this cessation •. arketl. In I'ebriiary l^Ul nu rain tell j
anil in Felnnary isii,"), only l.'M iiu'lies upon ei;iht days.

Dnrin;^ the latter part of Mareh heavy rains oeeni, and al)oiit the middle of
April. The southerly wind.s ;jeiierally biiii;; the rain, Dniinji the seasons we

d about San P'ranei."

never heard thunder or saw liiililnin

ind ne\i

jtas.seu aooiii .>an rranei.seo we never nearii iniiiMier or saw ii;;iiiniii^, aim never
but once .saw snow fall, and then only at an elevation of four hundred feet ; lint
line bein^' distinetly marked, and the elevation beiii};' well ilelermined by a
knowledge of the heij,dit of tln^ hills. On the mountains of the seaboard snow
freipieiitly falls, but with tiitliii;;- depth.

The foj^s that prevail on the eojist diirin;; the dry season have a thiekness of
one thoii.saiid thr«'e, hundred to one thous;ind .seven hnmlred feet ; ^^enerally
the f(M-iner, and only upon one oeeasion have we determined the latter. Thron;;h
this '<en.se eloml the mountain tops jiieree as island.s.

The foUowin;; .statement will ;;ive a j,feneral itlea of the tempj-rature of tho
.seaboard. TluMiiterior is miieh warmer, but on ae«ount of the dryne.ss of tlio
atmosphen', the effect is not so enervatinjjf to the .sy.stem as a lower temperature,
on th(! Atlantic.

Mean temperature at sunrise ami noon for seven years, from IS,")! to 1.S."j7, eomputed
in part from the California State Iteijister for l.sr»!>.

•

SiinriHe.

Oeg. Fahr.
44. 'J

47. H
4'.l. li
M.
.51. 8

xS'oon.

Mean of—

SiiiiriHO.

Kmiii,

Mean of—

Dfij. Fahr.

li(). ^

li.".. 7 1
.i4..-,

Wiiit.r, ,10. 3
S|iriii(r, "rl. .'i

,Inlv

Dry. Fahr.
.VJ. (i
Kl. ti

,'i;i. 8
r>j. 7

411.4
4 1. !•

r>i-<f. Fnhr.

fi9.H)
liH. 4 1
0-'.

r..-..^j

Fi'liniiiiy

AiiiriLst

Sl'llllllllHT

Oildliff

NhviiiiImt

UiceiiibiT

Averuge

Siimniii-, '>'.). II

,\livil

Hay

Jlllli;

Aiit'nin,.'it'. ;i

4U.H

M.:i 1 Veal. :m. til

10*

COAST PII.OT OF CAMFOItMA.

Tilt' lowest tciiiiK'iiitiin' cxiM-riciin'tl ;it Siiii Fnnn'isco in flic iiIkivc soveil
yciirs wiis LVt'^ I'iilir., in .liinnary is.'d. In |,s,*rj, Vt.t, '.Vl, the frni|ici;itnii' wns
al\v;i.vsiiltitv«' \U't'/.'\\\n, iumI I'lillin;,' no lower tluiii L'so in is,">(»; Ki" in |s,",.i; niP in
JS.".; .'{P in lS."i7.

The lii;,'liest leniiteiiilnie wns W^ in Seiiteinlier \s:,'j, nnd tliiit nni.v l»o con-
sidered reiniirkidtiy lii;;li, '.t.T' iind iMC^ Imvinf; Iteen rciielied lint once.

The niciin tcni|)er:itnre of sprin;;' is ,"i|o, of Hnniincr, r»7°, of iintiinin, ri(P. and
of winter. "lO ', showing;- :i dill'erenec of (ndy 7° Iiclwccn the iivciii;,fe of winter iiinl
HUinnicr. There is a i'an;;e of !P in the mean tenipcratiiie of the months, ami the
mean of the whole year is aWont ."i^.

The mean temiicratnre at Saeianu'nto, latitndc .'!.s^ .'{.'{' north, and lon^itndo
I'JP 'Jll', and seventy live miles from the ocean, for live years' oltservations, is

'file entrance to San I'rancisco ISay is snp])osed (o have heen (irsi seen liy
llartolonic I'crrelo, pilot and successor to dnaii liodri;,'n«'z ( 'ahriilo, wlni, liinninji;
down the <Miast with a ;;ale stronjf from the north, on tin- .">d day of .'Maich ir»t;{,
<les«'iied what he supposed to he tin' inoulli of a ixwat liver, liaviii;; every appcar-
anc«' of drainin;;' a larj;c extcin ot'ctiiniliy ; and stecrin;; southeast and ('as) south-
east he soon after si;;l:te(i Point I'iiios, and on the ."it h the port in the island of
.liiaii liodrijfuez, wh«'re Ciiluillo is supposed to have died. If this account is cor-
rect, he was the lirst luiropean that lichcld the ('lolden (iaie.

Sir I'raiicis Drake visited ('alifornia, which he named New Alhion, in 1,"»7'),
and we are of opinion that in this l>ay he overhauled ami repaired his \essel, "it
having' |ileased (lod to send him into a fair and jXiun] l>ay, with a ^ood wind to
enter the saiiu-." ("urionsiy eiioujih, we Iind the statenient that "there is no j)art
of the earth here to lie taken lip wherein there is not some prolialile show of j;(il(l
and silver." In this harlior he remained over a mtuith " triniminj;" his .sliips and
takiii;'' po.ssession «if the eoiintry.

A land discovery of the liay was made in 17(i!> i>y (Jaspar de Portola, who left
San l)iej;<i to estalilish a .Jesuit colony at .Monterey; lint liy traveliiii; alon<;- the
eastern slope of the Coast monntains he pas.sed Monterey, and towards Ihccio.se
of October came unexpectedly niion the .shores of a };reat liay, which they siij)-
jMtsed to be the Port St. Francisco «if the old luivi^ators. llavinj;' no sniiplics tho
party returned to San I)ie<io.

Vancouver visited the bay in 17!)- and 17!).'5, and yives a {•ood };eiieral ma]) of
the entrance. The jiresidio of San Franci.seo was then ticeupi«'d by Spani-sh
troops.

The lirst accurate liydrotrraphic survey was made by Captain Fred, W.
I'.ecchey, in the I5lossoiii, in November ISL'li, he carryin;;' his wiirk to the Strait
of Kanpiines.

In Octolu'r 1S,'{7, Captain Sir F^dward Helcher ascended the Sacramento with
the boats of the Sulphur, and .starting.; from the " Fork" carried the survey down
the ri\er to i;onneet with Beei^hey's survey. The " I-'ork " he calls Point Victoria,

COAST IMI.OT OF CALIFORNIA.

ami pliii'fs ill liitiliulc .'5S"' W 17". ami (P 17' .H"..") cast of tin' ohscrvalory on
Vt'ilta liiinia. 'I'liis point is I'omikmI Iiv IIii- ronliiit'iicc ot the h'ioil*- las I'liimas, or
FcallHT l!iv<'r, witli tlic Sanaim-iilo, alxiiit twenty miles aliuvt- Saciaiiiciito J'ity.
'I'll)- rivir, lail a sliorl ilisimin' aliovt- iiis start in;; point, was t'ortlalilc, ami tlifnr«>
to its iiioiit!i tiavri'scil in its mfaml«'riii;;s om- liiimlriti ami titty miles. Tlie lieail
ot'steaiiilioat iiavi^^ation is at l>< <! liliill's, in latitude l(P It)'.

The Coast Siirv-y eliaits t'liinisli all that ean lie desired in re;j:ard to the lower
part ol the Itay of San I'ramiseo and adjaeeiit waters up to and imlutlin;;' the
moiitlis of the Saerameiito and San .loatpiin it'iv ers.

i)t xm uv voixv AM) kki:k.

From I'oiiit I'.oneta to JMixImry roitit, fortmn;; the west side of ISolaiios* Hay,
the eoiirse is west Ity north oneipiaiter iioi I . and the distance nine and one-
([iiarter miles. The point, sometimes called I'oi iiios, is a talile land alioiit one hun-
dred feet hiyli. whieli stretches alon;; th coast tor a mile or iiKne, ami ^iiadnally
rises to a narrow, nearly treeless rid;;e, one thousand liiree liiindred and ei;.;lity nine
f< I't hi;;h at its ;;rca test elevation, and riiunin;.; in a strai;iht lino t\vcnt,\ live and
one-quarter miles mat Invest tpiarter west to Tttmales I'oint. The old Calilbr-
iiiaiis e\pressi\cly call it the Ciichilla (irandi-. I'aiallel to this ridye on the east,
and starting; from the west end of the ;;reat cross rid;;*' of Tal»le .Moiinlaiii. runs
Jinother to tin- northwestward, and the ilepressioii hetweeii them alaeast of Dux-
bury Point forms the ISolanos IJay, as it does the Tomalcs IJay turtlier up tlie
coast. This depression forms a lony, narrow valley, well watei'cti and tinilicred,
and ill many places cultivated. Two streams riinniii;: into each l»ay have their
sources nearer the liay from which each runs.

Duxhiiry reef makes out one and one (pia iter miles southeast oiie-(piarter south
from the southern extn'inity of the point, ami stretchin;;- towards I'oint Honeta,
forms a safe aiicliora;;-e in northerly weather. From the tail of the reef to the,
rocky i»oiiit east northeast from it the distance is three mih'S, and from this line to
the ;j;reatest heiid of the bay the distance is one and three-tpiarters mile. In this
bay the three tat Iioin line makes otf three-ipiarters of a mile from the soiithvast
face of Diixbiiry I'oint, but approachin;; the low sand beach east of the narrow
entrance to the la;;'oon. From four to ei;;ht fathoms of water, with a rc;,'iilar bot-
tom of saml and mud, arc found in the bay, and six fathom > quite close to the reef.
From Duxbiiry I'oint to the bliilf, at the entrance to the lajjoon, the distame is one
and oiie-((uarter mile luatheast by north.

In June ISild, tlie British bark Camilla, i'nmi San Francisco to Melbourne,
ilrifted in a dead calm near Duxbury IJeef, and let ;;'o her anchors in six fathoms.
AVhen she swiuig to the swell and ciu-reut her stei'U struck, and she thiuiiped foi-
four hours.

(Juito close to Duxbniy Point the steams1ii|) S. S. Lewis went ashore, Ajiril !»,
l."^o.'5, in a thick fo;i- and calm, while rniinin;; at her ordinary speed. She was

' Ntuncd iit'tfi- VuIhiiiih or Itoliouis. one ol' tlie i»ilots of Vizcaino's I'XtHMlitioii in Kitf.*.

^=!l

70 COAST PILOT or CALIFOIINIA.

bnckod oft' aiul ran asljoro af-ain witliiu a £ew buudrod yards to the northward, and
vas totally lost in tin' l)rcak('rs.

Tn IStiT the steamer Montana got on the roeks in a thiek fog, but the I'ising
tide relieved her.

The la^i'oon north ol" the bay is at the foot of the mountains, and, exeejit small
crooked ehaniiels. is bare at low tides, and filled with small islets. The south side
of this lagoon is boiuided by a long, narrow sand spit, stretehing so nearly a<'ross
it as to leave an entranee of but one hundred yards wide at the southwest part of
it. Only a few small vessels run between this plaee and Sail Fraiw-iseo.

The shore north of I>oneta is l)old and high, presenting a niaiked and peculiar
undulating surface at right angles to the sea front. This characteristic is well
delineatctl on the Coast Survey ma]) of the api>roaches and entrance to San Fran-
cisco l>ay.

North of Duxbury the hard rocky shore continues bold and high, but gradu-
ally merges into clitH's, consisting chielly of yellowish clay and sand resting upon
granite, and. as the surface is regularly undulating, with the direction of the alter-
nate ridges and valleys at right angles to the shore, the wearing action of the
surf forms a continuous series of round-toiiped, bright, vertical blutVs, averaging
nearly one hundred feet high, and presenting a very noticeable feature from the
sea. It sreseniblance to portions of the coast of England was one of the rea-
sons which iiubiced Drake to apply the nanu; Xew Albion to the coiuitry in
dune l.")?!*.

The mountains in the biu-k grouml rise over two thousand feet, and the
"Tiible ^lountain'' of liet'chey attains an elevation of two thousand six hundred
anil four feet, stretches nearly two miles inland at right angles to the coast, and
forms a prominent mark from seaward and from tlie JJay of San I'rancisi-o. A few
large trees are seen along the top of the juaiii ridge running parallel with the coast
and behind the valley, connecting Bolanos and Tomales Bays.

Table Mountain is i* very sharj) ridge, showing Hat-topped only in two dire* -
tions. From South Farallon light-house it bears uiutheast half north, distant
twenty-four miles; the geographical position of the eastern peak is:

Latitude 37 oo 30.7 north.

Longitude 1'2'2 33 38.7 west.

h. m. n.

Or, in time S 10 UM.

It w as ealled Mount Palermo by the United States Exploring Exi)edition, but
is known only by the name here used.

]>y the old ("alitbrnians it is called Tamal Pais, because this ])art of the
country was inhabited by the Timal Indians, who in ISK! were within the jurisdic-
tion of the n.ission of San Francisco. The Tamal, Numpal, and Suysum tribes
tatooed themselves and spoke the same language; tlu' tirst lived in the northwest,
and the last two in the north.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

SIR FRANCIS DRAKKS HAY.

From tlio tnil of Duxhuiy Itfcf to tlio west cml of Los IN-ycs the coiusr is
■west tlircc-quartcrs north, iiiid ilistiiiicc scvi'iitccii iiiid oiictliiid miles. To the
Oiist cml tlif course is west I»y north, distiince fourteen ami two thirds miU's.
From Duxltiirv the shore is lioM and compact, runninfi' nearly northwc st l>y west
for altoiit ten miles, then ciirvinj;' rcf;iilarly to tlie westward, clian^in^- to a low
shore, niitil it readies its "greatest hititude at the l-'stero de Limantour, which
Itears north Ity east lialf east from tlie east end of Los l{eycs, distant thieo
miles; thence the line curves to tlic southward and soutliwest, one mile west of
the i»oint, leaving' a loajr, lii^i'h, narrow point stretchinij;' to the cast, and olf which
tlie breakers extend half a mile. This curvinji' shore-line forms Sir Francis Diake's
Uay, which atfords a lar^i'c and admirable anchoraj;e in heavy northwest weather;
and l»y anchorinj;" close in under the north side of the point, in four or live fathoms,
liard bottom, •••tMid but contracted anchora^ie is obtained in southeast ;;ales, as the
swell rollinj;' in from the southwest is broken by the reef.

The seconthiry astronomical station of the Coast Survey wa,s on the north side,
of the first small g'ldly. tivcei^htlis of a mile from the eastern end of the head,
and about forty feet above the water. Its geographical position is:

Latitmle .'$7 .".{> ;jr).0 north.

Longitude 1-2 ,">7 .']().l w est.

h. IK. s.

Or, in time S 11 -,{). i.

The computed magnetic variation in .Iidy ISdO, was 1.")^ ."iS' east, and its pres-
ent yearly increase 1'.

Several esteros or lagoons open into the north side of the Itay, but their
entrances are very narrow and shoal. The largest is the Drake's Kstero, which
stretches to the northward over three miles, and one of its numerous arms
ai)proaclu's within a mile of the ocean beach, live miles north of I'oiiit Ke\es
Head. The entrance to this lagoon lias eight feet of water, and is generally
marked by breakers on either luiud. Coasters can enter with the prevailing mntli-
west wind.

Drake's Bay if tlie Port Francisco of the Spaniards, of almut l.">!).">. It was
certainly known before the time of Vizcaino, who, having separated from his ten-
der, sought her in Tort Francisco, and, according to Veiiega's account, "to see if
anything was to be found of the San Augustine, which, in the year Lj!)."), had, by
order of his nuijesty and the viceroy, been sent from the I'hilippines by the gover-
nor to survey the coast of Calilbrnia, under the direction of Sebastian liodiigiiez
Cerine|-|on, a pilot of known abilities, but was driven ashore in this harbor by the
viole;'><'e of the wind; iiml among others on board the San Augustine was the pilot
Francisco Volanos, who was also chief pilot of the s(iuadr(»n.*' This pilot recog-
nized the bay as being tiiat where he was wrecked.

-- _.)>

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOENIA.

POINT KEYKS.

ri"

Tliis is the most i>roiiiiiioiit and rciiiiirkahle hoiullaiul north of Point Concop-
rion. It is distinctly visihli> from tlio entrance to San Francisco Hay, and tlic snm-
mit of the ridj^c jircscats an iri'('j;nlar jafijicd ontlinc, witli the liij;lu'st part abont
onclourth of its Icnj^tli from the western extrennty. Its sontiiern face is a precip-
itous wall of iiard sicnitic p-anite, risinjf boldly from the ocean, attaining an eleva-
tion of live liundied and ninety-seven feet in three hnndred yards, and stretcliinf?
nearly in a straight line east by north and west by south for throe miles. Tins
direction is peculiar on the coast, and would not be exjx'cted from a consideration
of the trend of the coast mountains and of the Farallones, which are in line iu)rth-
west and southeast. On the north side the cape falls away regularly to a low
undulating neck of land, cut ui> by estcros making in from J)rake's IJay. AVhen
juade from tlu' southward it is raised as a hmg, high island ; but on api)roaching
it from the westward it is projected njton the mountains running north from Table
3Iouiitain, and its characteristics are not so readily recognized. Its base is very
broken and rocl<y, and bordered by crags and hundreds of rocks, but may be
boldly a])proached, and eight fathoms, hard l>ott(>m, (tbtained within less than a
quarter of a mile. Fifteen miles west southwest from the head a dei)tli of sixty-
one fathoms, grey sand with white and black specs, with deei)er Avater (sixty-six
fathoms) inside, and sixty fathoms, soft green mud, nine miles off the hea<l.
Thenci' it gradually decreases to thirty fathoms, line green mud, about tW(» and a
half miles otf the head. Olf the eastern extren..iy a reef makes out half a mile in
continuation of the jtoint. Upon this reef it breaks heavily in bad southerly
weather, but nine fathoms can be had close to the breakers. Off the westeru
head a depth of twelve fathoms is found ((uitenearto the rocks.

Vessels bound to San Francisco fiom the northward always nmke Point
Heyes, and, when up to it, sight two mountains on the southern peninsula of San
I'lanci^co as islands. One of those is Illue .Mountain, one thousand one hundred
feet high, and the other. Abbey Hill, one thousand two huiulred and fifty feet.

In IS.VJ, an ollicer of the Coast Survey, while occupying the station on Point
Reyes Hill, oim thousand three hundred and eighty-nine foot high, and eight and
three-fifths miles northeast half north from Point Keyes Head, observed, during a
])erfect calm, a bark having no steerage way, and turning round several times,
drift to the northward past Point Peyes Head, at the rate of one mile per hour.
She was two miles to the westward of the head. On this and subsequent occa-
sions we noticed the (liscolored water of the Sacramento from San I'rancisco Pay
close in shcne, and extondiiig to the northward of tlu^ head several miles. Dif-
ferent degrees of discoloration, as of successive ebb tides, were plainly umrked.

The magnetic variation computed for July LStiO, was 15° 58' east, with a pres-
ent yoaily increase of 1'.

There is no light house upon Point IJeyes.

The Jlritisli Admiralty Ciiart of the Pacilic Coast No. 24(»1, with correctitiUH to

.•>f

-'I

)

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOPvyTA.

]\riircl» ISfi."*, has a li}>:lit on Point TJoyos, iJiiiikcd Lt. Fl. (llnsliin}; li^-lit.) Tlio Tins-
siiiii corvi'ttc Novi<!k Wiis wrecked two miles nuitli of Point Keves some yenra
since, liavinjr 'won misled l>y an Kn;;lish clnut witii a lijulit marked on tliis head.

This headland was discovered hy Calnillo in l'>i-, and jdaeed l»y him ahont
tliei hititnde of 4(P ; hut hy a^jtlyinj;- the conection P .")(»', ohtained from his erro-
neons latitndis of San l)iej;o, Point Concepcion, (Cape (Jalera,) aiul I'linta (iorihi,
(San Martin,) the latitude of 40° becomes .JS'^ 10', which i; "itiiin ten miles of the
latitude of Los Ueyes. We believe he called it Cabo Mendozino, in honor of tlie
viceroy of Mexico, who disi>at(thed him ; but this naiiu' was ai)plied to even ca]»e,
first made by the Spanish ••alleons on the passage IVoju the Philippines to La
Natividad, New Spain. In this rej;ion Cabrillo found the mountains covered with
snow. There can be but little doubt that he also saw the Faralloiies.

The present name was given by Vi/caino, who anchored under the head in
January KUKi, whilst .seajching for the wreck of the San Augut;tiiie.

SOUTH FARALLON.

The southern and principal one of the six rocky islets, known as the Farallones
de los Frayles, lies oil" the (Jolden (Jate at a distam-e of twenty-three and a half
miles; the whole }j;roup is disposed in a nearly straij;ht line running- northwest
from the southern oue. This is the largest and highest, extending nearly a mile
east and west, attaining an elevation of about three hundred and forty feet abov(^
the sea, and presenting to the eye a mass of broken. Jagged rocks, u[»on whicii uo
vegetation exists, except a few stunted we.ds. The rocks are sharii, iuigular
nuisses, which, becoming detached by the operations of natural causes, loll down
upon the more level parts of the islet and cover it with irregidar boulders. Not-
withstanding that it is the ontcroi* of an immense dike of gianite, the condition
of the superficial {tortion is such that it could be se[)aratcd into small fragments
hy a pick or crowbar. A more desolate ami barren place can hardly be imagined.
From the hills about the (Jolden CJate the South Farallon is plainly visible, risiiijf
ill regular pyraiuidal form.

> Cvssels from the westward, running for the Golden (iate, should keep to the
southward of the South Farallon, especially in thick weather ami at night. To
the westward of it a (U'i»th of lifty fathoms is obtained at a distance of three ndles,
shoaling to twenty fathoms iu two miles; whereas, inside of it, the bottom is very
regular at thirty fathoms for ten miles, and then decreases regularly to the bar.
On the southeast side of the island there is said to be good holding-ground in fif-
teen fathoms.

A rock is rep(nted to exist about halfway between the South and Middle
Farallon, a break having been seen about that position by pilots and by the ii;. iit-
house keeper. It is supposed to bo a bayoiu't roek with about four la thorns
ui)on it.

The Sau Francisco pilot-boats cruise ofl' the island.

! 1

^ i

80 COAST PILOT OF CALIFOUNIA.

An oxtondcd and detailed oxainination around the island has boon |nd)lisliod
upon tlie {jeneral coast eliait i»nl)Iislied l»y the Coast Survey.

Tides, — Tiie eorreeted estaltlishniciit, or mean interval between the time of
the moon's transit and the time of hij^li water, is 10//. Mm., and the dilVerenee
between the ;jreatest and least intervals l/i. lt!;«. The mean rise and tail of tides
is 3.0 feet; of sprint; tides, -t.t feet: and of neap tides, 2.6 feet. Tlie mean dura-
tion of the llooil is G/(. 18h»., and of the ebb <J/j. iV.Un.

To find the times of hij;h and low waters, first eomi»nte thorn for San Fran-
cisco, and from the numbers thus obtained subtract lit. 2'Jiit. for the South
Farallon.

The ship Lucas was wrecked on this islet iu ii foy November 9, 1858, and
twenty-three lives were lost.

SOUTH FAKALLON LIGHT.

The tower stands on the hijihest peak of the island. It is built of brick, sev-
enteen feet in hei;;ht, and is surmounted by a lantern and illuminatinj;' apparatus
of the first order of the system of Fresnel. If is a rerolriiuj white lit/lit, sitoiriiiff a
inolomjed fash of ten seconds crery minute thi'ou;^h(/Ut the Inn-izon. Tlie tinn,' of
the flash varies on ditlerent nij,'lits. In l.sr»!) we found the averaj^c* tinu^ thirteen
seconds. It is about three hundred and sixty feet above tlie mean level of tlic
sea, and should be visible, iu a favorable state jf the atmosi»here, from a height
of—

10 feet at a distance of 25.4 miles.

20 feet at a <listance of 20.0 miles.

30 feet at a distance of 28.1 miles.

GO feet at a distance of 30.7 miles.

At near distances, under favorable circumstances, the liftht will not wholly
disaitpear between the intervals of t;reatest brij^htness. It is plainly visible from
Suljtiiur Peak, distant (M.4 miles, and three thousand four hundred and seventy-
one feet above the sea.

The geographical position of the light-house, as given by the Coast Sur-
vey, is:

Latitude 37 11 48.8 north.

Longitude 122 50 0.").2 west.

h. m. «.
Or, in time 8 11 .50.3.

IVIagnetic variation VP 40' east, in 1857, witii a yearly increase of 1'.

Tlie bearings and distances of prominent objects from it are :

North Farallon, northwest by west three-quarters west, six and three-fifths
miles. ,

Western head of Los Reyes, north by west two-thirds west, seventeen and
thrce-qnarters miles.

s 1)0011 piiblisliod

ber 9, ISoS, and

COAST PILOT OF CALlFOliXIA,

Pniiit Boiiotii li};ht-liouso, iiorthoast by oast, twonty-three and a lialfiiiiloH.

Toiiit Siiii Pedro, oast, twoiity tliroo and a hall" iiiilos.

l-'roiii abioast Fort I'oiiit tlic lij;hl is just visible above the horizon.

FoaWniSTLE ON TIIK SOI Til TAUALLON.

In January l.S.">!», a lofj-wiiistlo, of six iiuOu's in dianiotor, was ])la('od on the
south sido of tho oastorn part of tho ishiiul, about two liuinh'od and sovonty-fivo
ftset from the water. It is erected over a natural hole, in the roof of a siU>torra-
nean passajio, connected with ami open to the ocean, and is blown by the rush of
air tlirouj^h the passajjo, oausod l»y the soa broakinjj; into its mouth. Tin' sound
should 1(0 hoard in tho viciinty at all times, (its loudness dopendiiij,' ui)on the
lioi^'ht of tlu' tide and the waves,) except about an hour and a half before and
after low water, wiien the soa does not enf«>r the numth of the passage. It is said
to have been heard at a distance of seven or eif-ht miles.

e Coast Sur-

TIIE MIDDLE FARALLON.

This is a single rock, between fifty and sixty yards in diameter, and risinj"-
twenty or thirty foot above the water. It lies northwest by west, distant two and
a (piarter miles fr(»m tho lighthouse on tho .South Farallon. Its ;;-ooj;raphical i»osi-
tiou is latitude 61° 43' 31".G north, and lon{,'itudo, V2l\o (U)' 54".'J west,

THE Nonrn faiiallones.

Those lie nearly in lino with each other ami the Middle ami South Farallonos,
and consist of a j;Toup of four islets, haviiif^ a i)yranii(hd appearance as their nainc^
donottw, and comprised within a space of little more tlian half a mil(^ s(iuaio.
Tho northern throe are »iuito hi^ih and bold, tht^ hij;host peak of tho middle one
attainiu}^- an elevation of one hundred and sixty six feet, whilst the southern one
of the jjroup is a more rock of about thirty-five yards in diameter, and hardly
twenty feet above water. Viewed froui the southwest (u- ncuthoast, breakers
extend across t'unn the lar<^ost islet to tho next one southeast, and durin<;- a heavy
{;:round swell we have watched it from Point Koyos Hill breakinjj- on an isolated
sunken rock lyin^ apparently between tho northern and larf^'ost islet. From cer-
tain directions a snuill pyramidal detached peak shows close to the north side of
the northern islet.

The geo}>raphical iiositions and extents of the islets are as follows :

Lntitiiilp.

c 1 n

T, t(i in.ll iKirlli.
37 45 .VJ.!) irnitli.
37 4,-. ■{■>. i) iidith.
37 4.") II. H i!')illi.

IjUii;jitailp.

Exli'lit.

XitrtlnTii Iwlct

IJ3 115 a'l. 1 w.'Ht.
1-J3 04 5!l. H wcHt.
i-,':t 114 53. fi west.
l'J3 (II 41. ft w.'.st.

IfiU

MiiliUi' Isl.t

SimllH'iii Inlc't

Kiwk oft' lust

1K5
35

11*

COAST I'lLOT OP CALIFORNIA.

!
I

The nortliprn islet, thoret'oro, hoars north fi4<^ w<!st. distiuit six nnd thrco-
flfths miles from tlio li<;-| it house on the Soiitli Fariilloii. From the lighthouse site
of I'linta (h' los Reyes it hears soiitli. distant tonrteen miles.

The Nooiitlay U(M'k, with three and a hall' lathonis ol" water upon it, lies
M'est hy north, distant three miles t'vom the Xorth Karallones, with interven-
infi; ro<'ky hottom in thirty-five tatluMiis. Between them and Los Keyes the depth
increases to lifty fathoms aitont midway.

The Farallones de los Frayles were discovered by Ferrelo in February 1;")43,
and he is stated to have seen six islands in this vit-inity, one lar;;e and live very
small, which Cabrillo had jtassed on the jirevioas voya}je. lie states that for live
days it was iniiiossible to ettect a landing' upon them on a<'coiint of the southwest
winds and heavy sea.

Sir Francis Drake is the first that sjiecially mentions them, in 1570, as lyiiiff
ott" the harlior or bay wliere he relitted his ships, lie calls them the islands of
St. .James.

Aiioiit 177.") they received their jiresent name, after the voyajjes of IJodefia and
Maiiulie, uiich'r the orders of Hailio Frayle Don Antonio Ibicarolli y Visera. In
some recent mai»s they are omitted.

NOONDAY KOCK.

This danger lies nearly on the i)roloii<iation of the line from the Soiiili Faral-
lon, throiijih the North Farrallones. It is of very limited extent, and is, doubtless,
a sharp isolated jtoiiit of a small ledge, having from iweiity to thirty fathoms im-
mediately around it. It is plainly visible when directly over it, and has three and
a half fathoms of water upon it at mean low water; but at the extreme low water
of sjiring tides there will lie hardly more than three fathoms. In very heavy
weather and low water the sea bi.'aks upon it, but this indication seldom exists, and
must not be depended upon for ascertaining its position.

From it the following bearings will show its relation to other well-marked and
determiiied points :

Punta de los Reyes, western head, north by east one-quarter east, distant
13.8 miles.

North Farallon, east by south, distant 3.1 miles.

South Farallon light-house, east by south three-quarters south, distant 9.7
miles.

Point Boneta light-house, east by north five-eighths north, distant 30.3 miles.

Boneta light will not be visible from a ship's deck, but may be seen from aloft,
wnder very favorable atmosiiheric eircumstances.

The geographical position of this rock is —

Latitude 37 47.2 north.

Longitude 123 08.7 west.

Sometimes in clear weather, oft" Point Reyes Head, a high white cone appears

mf six ma fliroo-
''<' li«lit.ii„„.sc site

■•■Iter ii|)()M if, ij,.^

<'S wifli iiUcivcii-

li«'.Vf.s tlic ,l,.,,th

» Fcbniiiiy 1543,
'tie and ii\,. v(.,y

"f<'N tllilf toy five,

i>f tlie southwj'isfc

i'l 1570, l,s Iy,„^,
» tlic i.sIillMls of

■sofI{«,]<.y,, ,„„,
"i y Viscra. lu

« SoiiiJi Faral-
'<! i«, <loubtI<'.s.s
iy ftitlionis ill),
hijs tlircc and
«'ine I«nv Maf(.,-
fJi ACiy Jioavy
lorn exists, and

11 -niarkod and

east, distant

> distant 9.7

t SO.,*] mi Jos,
11 fioni aloft,

"it

Vli'w linn: N,„,i„l.-,v H.,,.1, N,,,-l, K,.i-,

Pt.Rcve.

Vii-w li,,tii N.).>n,|HvI(.>i.k I't F

'7.2 nortli.

**.7 AVt'St.

Olio ap])eai-s

"•" "■'■''^'^p^Wl^^l^^flU^

•mwm ^" ' ' m r^ mi» mm m is'

V'.inv (•■.11. Ni.i.n.Irn- H .. k N.,itli F.ii ill ^ l..'iuiiiv! ''■ l-v > .li-<i;iiit .-. mil

6S*^^»^

y.l.'i: 'I.>1mii«

\'ii-w tV.,tii N.,.,ii,lnv U,.,k I'f D.'vs l,.-,iritij; .S l.v K. ; !', HiHtMin U mil.-!'

COAST PILOT OK CAMFOKNIA.

h:j

in tlio buck ki'oiiimI. Tliis is Mount Ilt'lciiii, wliicli Imshs iimtli bynist fifty (•i;'lit
HMil ii liiiir iiiili-s ilistiint, iiiitl is luiir tlioiisiiiMl tlii'<>«' liiiiiilriMl aiitl t'oit.v tlircr I'trt
lii^ili. It is, lnt\v»'\t'r, too tlisl;iiil to lie \isiiilc, cxicpt in clciir wt'iitlicr.

In tiic ilfscri|ilion ot'tiir South I'liriiilon, mimI in thf (lircnions tor iipiuoiuliin;;
S;in FiiMicisco, \v«' liavi' licrctot'orc iidviscd vt'sscls tipprorliiuji; tin* (ioldru (Iiitc at
iii;jlit and in tliick wfathiT to kiM-p to tlit- soutinvard of tin- Soutli Farailon li^^lit.
This advict' has now nion* si;;nitican('(>, and slntuhl lit' roihtwi-d. Witli I'unta iUt
I(»s licyi's ami tin' l''aiiilloncs in si;;lit, vessels boiuid in and innnin;; between tlieni
Hliould keep the western liead of Los Iteyes open on a north northeast eonrse,
eoniin;,' noihi'i}; to the eastward, until the North and South Farallones are in ran;:e,
then bear away tor theOolden (iate. In that position the roek will bear southeast,
distant two and a third miles. ('omiii<; from tho northwestward at nij^ht, vessels
should not brin^the Soutli Karallon li;;ht to bear anytliin;; east of southeast by
east, which will clear tin* rock by two miles, ami the North Iwirallones by one mile.

Southwest of the line jiassiiif'- throuH;h the Farallones and Noonday Ifock, the
one-hundred-fathom curve is only four miles distant, .iiid the lifty fathom curve
only two miles, with very irre^iular bottom.

The existence of this ledjjc \\ is first made known by Assistant (leorjje David-
son, of the Coast Survey, in April JStlO, it haxiajf been diseo\-ered by Captain
(Jeoinc Simptwii on the l.'ith of .March. ' lie \\eather was calm, and the pilot-boat,
driftinj*' with the current, was tishinj;' olf th<' Noith Karallones in forty fathoms
watei'. Suddenly the line slackened, and the depth rajiidly decreased to ten, and
finally to nine fathoms, when it iii"reased a;;aiii to the lirst depth. No «»tlicr ex-
amination was made, as the boardin;i boat was lisliin;,' some miles distant. The
North Farallones bore cast by south at an estimated distance of five miles; the
sinj;le shore ran;;!' tak«'n was unavailable for jilottin;;.

On the l.'d of .lanuary ISti.'!, the clipper shiji Noonday, drawing;' twenty-one feet
of water, struck twice upon the isolated rock formin}f the ain'X of the ledj^e; passed
over it, and within an hour sunk in forty fathoms of water. At the time of her
.strikin;' the weather wa.s clear, sea smooth, but with a very lieavy swell from the
northwest, and the wind from the northwest carryhiff her towards the (ioldeu
(late, about nine or ten knots an hour, with everytliin;;' set. The tide was three
hours jiast the Iiij,'lier hijili water of the day, and .'5.1 feet above the ]>lane of refer-
ence, which is the mean of the lower low waters. Tlieheij;lit of the lii<;her lii;,'li water
of that <^;'y was sli;>htly };:reater than the averajic «)f the higher liis'h waters. She
reported J,]>o roek eiylit miles from the North Farallones, which bore east by south
half .south.

On the 29th of January the position of this datifjor was first accurately de-
termined by the Coast Survey, and notice thereof immediately published.

V TULA SIIOAL, OFF SAN FRAXCI.SCO EMTUANOE.

In January 1' ,;J, Cajitain Bearsly, of the ship Vistula, re])orted that he had
discovered a slioal about eighty miles south-southwest from the Southeast Farallon.

.' ',1

I :^

,; r

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOKXIA.

It is sJiid fo liiivc Itiit iroin five to seven fiitlionis of water iiiion it, and lies directly
in tlie traek ol" vessels bound into San Franeiseo. Its approximate <;eo^Tapliiea!
])ositi()n fi'oiu the above data is —

O '

;!() IJ north.

Tiatitude. .
Longitude

iL't 10 west.

FAL^HOUTII SHOAL, IN THK PACIFIC, OFF THE CALIFOUNIA CIOAST.

In latitiule .">7o lM' north, and lon.uitu(h' l.'JT^ '.W west, I'oeks are reported hav-
ing- but iVoni thiee to five fathonis of water upon tiieni. This information was
obtained in IS,").'!, and failing- to ascertain anything more definite concerning it, was
])id»lished in the last edition of the Coast Pilot >» call attention and invite further
examination. In tiie admiralty chart, corrected to 1S<i.j, the Heed I'ocks are
niariced -(hyubtfur" in latitmh' :\',^ L'il', longitinle i;!7^ L't'. The Cnited States ship
Falmouth discovcre<l a rock with from tiiree to live fatiioms of water njion it, in
latitndf .'»7° -'-', longitude V.)l° I'.V. Tiie latest information is from Cai)tain Ked-
fleld of the whaling biig Susan Abigail. He reports dangerous rocks n«'arly awash
about six hundred and sixty miles nearly west by south tliree-«Mg' ths s(»nth from
the South Fai'.dlon light. Tiieir ])osition, as th'teriuined by observation under
favorable circumstances, is in latitude 'M^ .'{."»', and longitude l.')7° .'>(l'. The
larger rock he judged to be about lil'ty feet bioad and one hundied and fifty feet
long, and to have alunit ten feet of water ujion it. South-southeast from this rock,
at the distance of a quarter of a mile, he saw a discoloration of the water, making
it ])robal>le that another and smaller rock existed in that vicinity.

It is evident that a dangerous reef exists in this locality, and that all the ob-
servations refer to it.

POINT T0:MALES and TOMALES HAY.

Northward of Punta de los IJeyes we liml a long reach of broad white sand-
beach, backed by sand dunes, and extending in a north oiu'-third east direction
about ten miles; then curving to the northwest, and changing to a high precipitous
coast running to Poiid Tomales, Avhich bears north by west lifteeu miles from Los
Keye«. Three-<i\uirters of a mile before reaching the i)oint a I'ocky islet eighty
feet in height is seen close in shore. Seven ami a half ndles above Point lieyes is
the opening to Abbot's LagiHUi or Kstero, the north point of which is low and
sandy. The v, i(h'r arm runs one mile towards the head of the western branch of
the Kstero de Linnintour, and little more than that distance from it. The other
arm runs lu'arly a mile and a half to the noi'theastwai'd. The ridge forming To-
males Point and the western shore of Tomales IJay is the northern extremity of that
starting from Duxbnry Point. About four and a quarter miles from the point tlm
ridge is six hundred an<l seventy three feet high, with slightly lower ground a i\'\v
miles south. It is where the sand dunes strike this ri<Ige that the coast changes
its character ; thence to the point it is bold and locky, with breakers about one-

^^^M

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOliXIA.

Iiat all )h('ol»-

tliii'<1 of a milo oft' tlio po'iut, and on the iJioloiijratioii of the rid^io, wliicli avora;;os
less than tlircoqiiartcrs (»f a mile in bn'adtli fur the last fonr niilt-s. Tliiitccn
miles Itroad olf the hoacli, bi'twccn Points IJcycs and Toinalcs, flic depth of water
is sixty fathoms, soft j;reen iiind, j;ra<liially deereasinj;' to thirty fatht>nis. same
bottom two )niles off shore. Fourteen miles west-southwest of Tomales Point the
(h'lith is seventy fathoms, tine j;ieen sand and mud, with thirty fathoms yreen
mud two miles otf the point.

Tim l>ay of Tomales extends from Tomales Point southeast tliroe-quartevs
east for twelve and a half miles, with an average width of seven-eij^liths of a mile.
The entrance is narrow, and ohstrueted l»y a bar Inivinji' a depth of ten feet, be-
tween sandy lumps «»f seven feet. Tlu- bar lies nearly half a mile east of the
extreme point, and fou!' hundreil yards from the blutls. It is ex|)osed to the full
force of the northwest swell, and with the least swell from seaward it breaks aci'oss
the whole entrance. For two or three miles this bay is contracted, but has a nar-
row, deep channel clos" under the westc rn shore. Four miles within the ]>oint lies
a small island near the mi»hlle of the bay; beyond it the depth of water beeonu's
more re;;ular. Its shores are beconuns" thickly settled, and trade in a^iiienltural
products has increased so much that a snndl steamer has been put upon the route
to San Francisco.

In ISoli the ship Oxford, after getting' on the rocks outside of Tomales IJidjie,
was deserted, floated otf, drifted into the. bay over the bai' with the Hood tide,
flTounded on the tlats, and at the followiii;^- hi^ih water floated oil' a;;ain ; but no
one bcinu' aboard, she again drifted on the tlats, and lay inside of Sand J'oint for
sonu' years.

In I'ebruai'y IS,")?, while we were on Tonndes Point, the waters of the bay
ehaiificd to a deep brownish iturjile color, and the lish died in such .nicat numbers
that the beaches and water were coveretl with them.

This ba,\ was known as I'ort .Juan Francisco by the Spaniards when Vancou-
ver visited the coast in ITKL'.

In old Mexican j;rants it is called Tanndes, and sometinn\s Tomales. The old
Californians invariably pionounce it like- the fcnnier.

Belcher erroiieiuisly desiiiuates it as a i)art of IJodejia P>ay.

The Ifussiaus have a chart of it.

I).' 3Iofras calks it the Kstero Americam>, which is another body of water emp-
tyinjj into Pxideji'a Bay. lie calls Point Tomales Point Bodega.

Tlie topoiii'aithy of its entrance was executi'd hy the Coast Survey in ISoo. A
map of the whole bay was published in lS(il.

BODEGA HEAD.

This ]ioint lies noith mu'thwest eighteen miles from Los Beyes, and forms the
ncutheru point of IJodega I'ay, considering Tomales I'oint the southern. The
head is two or three hundred feet high, with a slightly rounding summit, and <'on-
tinues of nearly the same height for one and three-quarters of a mile northwest,

li! l!

i i

\l {

.11

86 COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKNIA.

whore it ehaiiRos to a broad saiid-boacl), with low country near, but hi<>"h bills in
the haekjiTound. The face of the land about here l)e«;in,s to change from its nni-
Ibrin want of trees to hills partially covered. U has been fretiuentiy held out as a
waniinii not to niistalic Hcidc^a Head for Tunta de Ids I'eyes, hut there exists no
reasonalile j;'.ound for raisinj;' a (piestion on this subject, althonj^h navij;ators, who
have lost or jeo]>ardized vessels, oiler as an excuse the great similarity of the coast
and headlands to those near the (Jolden (Jate. AV(^ have nt'ver been able to detect
it. Thirteen miles west-southwest fiom the head !he depth of water is seventy-
one fathoms, over tine HTcen sand, decreasinj;- rejjularly to thirty fathoms, over soft
{i'reen mud, fi'om two to one and a half miles off the head, and ten fathoms half a
mile from shore. The hiffhest part of the head is about two hundred and sixty-
live leet abov(^ the ocean. From an examination of this section we believe that it
is the continuation of the Tonudes l{idj>e.

Tiie };eoyrapliical position of the Coast Survey station on the head is:

Latitude 38 18 L>0.0 north.

Longitude 1-3 02 47.2 west.

/(. m. n.
Or, in time 8 12 ll.l.

This station is one mile from the southern extremity of the point.

The magnetic variation observed near the moutii of the Kstero Americano, in
July ISOO, was UP lit'.l east. The i)resent yearly increase is 1'.

Th(> Knssians called this head Cax)e liumiant.sotf, and placed it in latitude 38°
17'.8, longitude 122° rA)'.{).

IJODEGA 15AV.

From Tomales Point to Hodega Head the course is northwest three-(inarters
west, and the distan<'e four and tluee-cjuarters miles. The average width of the
bay to the eastward of the above line is one and two-thirds miles, with the sluue
running nearly a parallel course. The shore of the bay is bordered by nunu'rous
rocks, is abrupt, and reaches a lieight of live hundred and ninety-four feet
less than a mile inland. The aiwhoiage lies between the head and the nn)uth of
the Estero Anu'ricano, (called Avatcha by the Pussians,) which lies east by north
five-eighths lujrth, two and a half mile:', from the head. One mile west of the
estero, a h)w, narrow sand-spit one and a half miles long, and covered with bushes,
stretches toward the head, within one hinulred yards ot it, where a i)assag(^ exists
for the waters of the e\i» ii.uve lagoon north of tlm sand-spit, having small and
intricate chaniu'ls, but abnost destitute of water at low tides. A dei»th of eigh-
teen feet can Ik^ carried into this lagoon over the bar at low water. The channel
increases in depth foi' one mile inside, and inns close luuler the western shore.
The depth of wafer on the bar is sidtject to changes after heavy southeast weather.

One-(iMar(er of a mile east-southeast from the middle of the southeast face of
the head lies Podega Pock, (Oiniuiia-pa-i Island of the Pussians,) rising a few feet

COAST PILOT OP CALIFORNIA.

t liijjii Iiills ill
I' from its iiiii-
■ licld out iis a
licrc exists no
ivigators, wlio
■yoftlic const
iihlc to detect
U'v is seventy-
Dins, over soft
itlionis half n
ed and sixty-
)elieve that it

id is :

I'O.O north.
47.2 west.

11.1.

Lmericauo, lu

hititudc 38°

ree-qiiartors

vidtii of tlie

th tile sliorc

y niiniei'ons

ty-fonr feet

le month of

st l>y north

ivest of tlie

itii bushes,

^su}f{'. exists

;■ small and

til of eij-li-

he ehannel

/>
>*

tern shore.
s( weather.
■ast face of

^1
1

a few feet

above bifjli water. From this rock a reef extends five-eighths of a mile cast-south-
east from the Inad, with nine tVet upon it, and suddenly dropping- otf to three or
five fathoms. The reef is densely covered with kelp, and tiie breakers usually
indicate its position. Between the islet and the head there is a narrow foiiraiid-
a-half-fathom passa;;'e op 'iiiiij;' directly upon the anclKuajic. in comiiij;- from the
northwest iu summer this channel is avaihible; but in beatluf:; out it is too con-
tracted to be safe. When directly between the head and roirk keep closer to the
head than to the rock. If coming lu to the southward of the reef, be careful not
to briii^' the well-marked mouth of the Fstero Americano (desij^nated Kstero de
San Antonio on the Coast Survey chart) anytliin<;' to the eastward of northeast Ity
east half east, and run that course until the eastern binlf of the head bears mu'th-
west by west oiie-cpiarter west: this will clear the tail of the ret-f about one-ei;;lith
of a mile in six fathoms; then haul up northwest by north half north for the aii-
ciioraj'c, about three-<juarteis of a mile distant.

The best aiichoraj;e is in about live fathoms of water, with the southeast face
of the head bea'iii;:,^ southwest three-(iuarters west, the point of the lafio(»n-si)it
bearing west one-iiuarter south, and the northern point of the rock bearing- south-
west one-cpiarter west. In this position the nearest part of the head and the near-
est part of the rocks are lialf a mile distant, and the bottom is hard and coiniiosed
of coarse sand and small patches of clay. This anchorage is protected by the head
and the low rocky islet and reef, about three-ciuarters of a mile oil!' the southeast
face, from the full force of the northwest swell, which generally rolls in disagree-
ably in the open part of the bay if the weather is heavy. During the winter sea-
son it is necessary to anchor well out, to be readj' to sli}) and run, as the sea-room
is very contracted and the swell heavy. Some vessels have ridden out heavy
simtheasters, bnt several have been lost, lu beating out, the only (hiiiger is the
reef ort" the head.

On accimnt of the general dei»ressioii of the coast hills behind Ijodega r»ay, to
about live hundred or six hundred feet elevation, and the valley in which the
Estero Americamt lies being perpendicular to the coast line, tin' summer wimls
draw ill towards the I'etaluma valley with great tbice. The trunks of the oak
trees rise straight for about ten feet, then bend almost at right angles, without
a branch lor ten or tifteen feet, and terminate in a clump of branches all dragged
out by the force of the wind. Fogs are found (U'awing in sooner and more fre-
(luently than upon any other part of the coast.

The countiy in the vicinity of the bay is very productive, both in the valleys
and upon the hills. The produce is jilaced in lighters at the "port" or enii)arca-
dero, about one mile within the lagoon, and carried by the euirent to the :iiu bor-
age.

A line tract of agricultural <'onntry stretches behind the coast hills, extending
fnuii Itussian Ifivcr Valley to I'etaluma Creek, by which channel tlu' iirodiice of
this region liuds its way to Sau Francisco.

tl!

88 COAST riLOT OF CALirOKNlA.

The sccondiiry astronoiniciil station of tlio Coast Siirvej was n\Hm the western
end of the sand spit; its geographical position is:

Latitndc 3S IS I'O.O north.

Longitude 12.'i OU 17.4 west.

h. III. n.

Or, in time 8 12 0!».-'.

Tides. — Tlie corrected establishment, or mean interval between the time of the
moon's transit and the time of high water, is ll/t. 15/h., and the difference
between the greatest and least intervals is l/(. 4SHi. The mean rise and fall of
tules is .'5.7 feet; of s]»ring tides, -t.l feet; and of neap tides, 2.8 feet. The mean
duration of the Hood is (5//. IS/h., and of the ebb Oh. Oltn.

To tind the times of high and low waters, first cimipute them for San Fran-
cisco, and from the munbers thus obtained subtract forty-nine minutes for BoJega
Uay.

Bodega Bay was discovered by Ileceta and Bodega in 177."), and ])laced in lati-
tude 38° IS' north. It was partially examined by Mr. Puget, under Vancouver's
<lirection, in 17!*2.

In 1817 Kot/.ebue always refers to it as I'ort Eumiantsoff, and clcaily indicates
that the Itussians intended to obtain possession of this cimntry.

In 1811*, by permission of the Spanish goveriuu' of ('alif'ornia, it was occupied
by tlie Itussian-Anu'rican Company, who afterwards refused to give it up, and
retained i)ossession until 1841. They erected two large wooden houses under the
blurt", at the entrance to the lagoon; but these buildings were in ruins at the time
of our visit in IS.'WJ. The Bussiaii wink of Tebenkort' (ISIS) says: ''The bay of
Bodega (Tuliato'livo) was fully described in 1S1J>, by Captain llagemeister. It is
similar to the port of Tiinidad in being convenient only during the sumnu'r, when
the northwest winds blow along the coast; at any other season it is dangerous,
lioth its indentations witliin the northwest and southeast headlaiuls are siiallow
and contracted, and therefore it is necessary lo anchor in the ojumi roadstead."

In IS.'ii), umlci' Bclclicr's orders, Kellctt commenced the survey of JJodega, in
the schooner Starling, and was soon after joined by the Suli)hur.

The line of equal m<tiinctic rariation of 1(5° east crosses the coast line of Hodega
Bay in latitude .'iso ITi', and in latitude .JSo ()(»' crosses the llMtli degiee of longi-
tude. This is for January 1850. The line moves southward about a mile and a
half annually.

The rocky, contracted, and unsafe anchorage off this jdace is northwest tliree-
quartcis north tVoni Los {{eyes, distance thirty-two miles, and titteen miles from
IJodega Head. The large white buildings of the llussians on the rising ground,
and about one hundred feet above the sea, are the «»nly marks for making it, and
the shore is so steeji and guarded by rocks and reef's as tt» render near approach
dangerous.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

tlie western

)!• San Fran-

A little trade is now carried on here.
Tlic approximate geographical ])osili()n is:

Latitude .^S ;{0 north.

Longitude

V2-2 i;{ west.

On some charts it is erroncoiisiN i>laced in l>(>dega ISay, \vi(h a large river run-
ning Irom the northward into the bay. lielciier states it to be tiiirty miles north
of J>o<lcga.

The sIku'c between Lodega Head and Fort Iioss curves slightly to the east-
ward of the line joining the two j)laces. Sand dunes commence one and a half
miles Irom the southern i)oint of the head, and extend two and a half miles to the
mouth of a small stream called Salmon Creek; these duiu's are bordered by a broad
sand beach, and closely backed by the Coast range. Niiu' and a half miles from
the head the Slavianka of the Russians empties into the sea, breaking through the
coast hills that here reach an elevation of two thousand two hundiid feet.
During the summer months a dry bar forms com}»letely across the mouth of the
river, so that the travel along the coast passes over it. It retiuires heavy rains to
break through it, and forms again after a few weeks of dry weather. Six and a
half miles west by south half south from its mouth, the chart of Tebenkotf has
seventy fathoms o\cr nuiddy bottom, with thirty live fathoms sandy bottom about
two and a half miles otf shore. During the summer tlu' bed is dry above Healds-
burg, thirty milts from the nn)Uth, and can be forded in several places in that dis-
tance. IJefore breaking through the coast hills it conu's from the utn'thward
through a broad, fertile valley. The arroyos ami streams opening into the Rus-
sian River near the coast are filled with a very dense gntwth of heavy redwood ;
and in ISdO a tram road was being graded along the coast to the lagoon inside of
Rodega Head to carry the lumber from the mill on the river.

From Ross Mountain, two thousand one hundred and iiinety-eight feet in
height, we have frecpieiitly watched the discoloied water of the river working
along close inshore to the northward, and nevei' to the south. The lishermeu
experience the same eddy current.

This stream is usually known as " Russian River." De Mofras calls it the Sau
Sebastian.

Northward of this river again commence the high coast hills, covered with
timber, which gradually api»roaches the coast, and reaches it about half way to
Fort Ross. The Russian vessels used this as a distinctive mark for making that
anchorage. Where the timber connneiu'cs to skirt the coast a bold spur of tlui
mountains comes directly ui»on tht^ sea. At Fort ]{oss there is a small extent of
open, cultivated ground, nu»derately low, but backed by the high wooded «"ouiitry.
The coast and coast hills to the noi'thward are mostly covered with deiise forests
of innuense redwood, pine, and a thick uudei growth. At one of the Coast Survey
mountain stations over forty trees were cut down that nu-asured from live and a
half feet in diameter (spruce) to eight and a half feet (redwood.)
Hi*

■•■ i 1

■■: I

.i i

I !

90 COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

Bt'tweon Fort Ross and Point Arena are a number of small coves upon whose
shores saw-mills have been ere<!te(l, giving a large summer trade to nuiiu'rous
small coasters. Tliese aiicihorages are Timber Cove, .Stillwater, Salt Point, Fisk's
Mill, Stewart's Point, Walalla River, liowen's Landing, Havens Anehorage, and
Arena Covt".

Here is the Northwest Cape of the Russians, and placed by them in latitude
380 ;}5i'.

From Fort Ross to Punta de Arena the coast is abncst straight, running
northwest by west one-quarter west for thirty-seven miU's. It is compact and
abrupt the whole distance, covered witli trees to the water's edge, and backed
by an unbroken ridge of hills about two thousand feet high, and wooded to
their summits.

UAV'ENS ANCHORAGE.

About twenty-four miles northwestward along the coast from Fort Ross is a
contracted anchorage under high i)recipitous rocky islets, with a short stretch of
beach on tlie main, atlording a boat landing. There is a i)r<)tection, when
anchored close in, against heavy northwest weather ; but it would be very diflicult
to recognize the locality unless the position of a vessel approaching it were accu-
rately determined.

On the top of the bluff, at the north side of a small gully, a secondary astro-
nomical station of the Coast Survey was established in 1853. Its geographical
position is :

Latitude . 38 47 58,0 north.

Longitude 123 31 00.8 west.

/(. HI. 8.

Or, in time 8 U 10.0

Northward of this anchorage high bold rocks line the coast for four or five
miles. They are generally known as " Fishing Jtocks."

A few miles south of this anchorage is the mouth of the AV'alalla river, open
in the rainy season, but having a dry bar in summer. It rises south of Fort Ross,
behind the first range of coast hills, and is the first stream that breaks through
the Coast range north of Ross. It is called Dirado River by the Russians, but is
placed six miles too far south. One of the Coast Survey stations on the north
side of the river, and three or fonr miles from the coast, has an elevation of two
thousand one hundred and uiuety-two feet, and this nuiy be taken as the general
height of this Coast range.

POINT AUENA.

This is the first prominent headland north of Los Reyes, from which it bears
northwest one'(piarter west, distant sixty-seven miles. Approached either from
the northward or southward it presents a long level ])lateau, stret(!hing out about
two miles west of the highhinus, and terinimiting in a peri»endicular bluff that

msm

es upon whoso

to mmu'ious

t Point, Fisk's

uclioijige, juhI

in in latitude

iiilit, running
compact and
, and backed
id wooded to

^'ort Eoss is a
ort stretch of
ection, wlien
very diHieult
it were accu-

Dudary astro-
geographieai

II
5S.0 nortli.
00,8 west.

10.0

• four or five

ii river, open
)f Fort Itoss,
aks tluough
sians, but is
in the iu>rth
ation of two
the general

licli it bears
either from
g out about
r blurt' that

^j.

...I

t I

-■^jik^.

COAST PILOT OF CAUFOHXIA.

1)1

avoriifics about two luiiKlretl foot in liciji'lit, oxcopt tlic cxtremo nortliwcst jtiirr,
wliirli is ('oiiiitiiiativcly low, ])ai'tiall,v covorcd with Hand, and dcstitntc of tiers for
sonic distaiicf inland. Wlicii seen from tin* southward, with the siiii sliiiiiiij; upon
the face of the lihitV, it sliows remarkably white for the lcn};th of two niih's. In
iiutt, no point iinon the i-oast presents such a brif,'ht aiipearaiiee, or sneh uniform
vert'cal bluffs, eoniposed of hard rot-ks, twisted and distorted into many plications.
]}o!d water is found close off the point, outside the kelp, which, stretchinfj strongly
to the southward, shows the set and (;omi)arative stren<;th of the ciirreiit. In
0(!tober J-S-IT, wejndj;ed it to be runnin}>- at the rate of not less than two miles an
hour. In July IS.").'), the coin])uted distances between the astronomical stations,
('ompared with the indications of .Massey's patent lo<{-, showed a current of from
one to two miles jier h<nir, runniii};^ ahiii^ the coast to tlie s(mthward.

About two miles southward of the point a small contracted valley opens upon
the shore, and otV it is an anchorage for small vessels, moderately well ])rotected
from the northwest swell, but open to the siaithwest. Several schooners have
gone ashore here. A large bed of kelp lies oft" the anchorage, and two reefs of
rocks, upon which the sea is constantly breaking, mark the north and soutli sides
of the i)assage thereto. Vessels generally moor with their stems in shore.

The south point of this cove or anchorage is a bright bliitf twice as high as
the bluff towards Point Arena, and is distinctly visible fifteen miles to seaward in
the afternoon when the sun is shining upon it. I>y it the position of Point Aremi
may be deterinined, when the latter is below the horizon.

About a mile and a half north by west from the jioint are several rocks show-
ing just above the water, and upon which the least swell lu'caks. These were
noticed by Vancouver in October 17!>.'{. When one mile broad off Arena, a higli,
sharii pinnacle rock shows well out from the shore on the horizon to tli«' south-
ward, with some rocky islets iiisich', and breakers well out beyond the Pinnacle
Jfock, yet northward of it: but their distances from shore are probably not so
uiuch as a mile.

The approximate geographical position of Point Arena is:

Latitude US r)7 north.

Longitude lU.'} I't west.

A recommendatioii has been made for a Jifiht-house uixui this ])oint, because it
is much needed by the mail ami coasting steamers and sailing vessels.

The appearance of this and other jiarts of the coast induced Sir Francis
Drake to call the land New Albion, whilst the same ajiiH'arance and sandy line to
the northward of it doubtless led the Spaniards to designate it La IMinta de
Arena. It suggests an iiKjiiiry concerning the numerous Cape lilancos that are
found in their voyages and maps.

For thirty miles northward of Point Arena are a number of small anchorages,
where vessels load lumber for San Francisco. The oi'der in which they are passed
is Novarro Uiver, Cuttee's Cove, Albion Itiver, Little River, ISIcndocino Bay, Kus-

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

slim (Jiilcli. C'jispiir ('reck, iiiul Xoyn Ifivor. In ISHS the aiiioiint of IuiiiIut sliip-
1U'<1 liDiii tlu'sc pliirt'S Wiis .*. 1,(100,(100 feet.

'r»'n miles iiuitliwiiiMl ai' Point Arriiii is the siiiiill strciini iiiiiiicd Noviiiio
L'ivcr. Articles lloiitiii;n Iroiii tliis strciiiii iin^ ahviiys roiiiid on tlic shores to the
iioithwanl, showing the existence of an «'(l<Iy current close in shore.

AMMUN KlVi:!!.

From Point Arena the lirst point to the northwestward is twentyfonr miles
distiint, and Itearin;,' northwest i»y north two-thinis north. Alter passing- Areini,
the coast treinls to the eastward of north, and lor six mih's presents a low shore-
line with sand heacli, chanjjin;,' snddenly to a straight, hijili hlntl" shore with a lew
trees, and hacked within hall' a mile l»y hills of two thonsand feet, c(»vered to
their snmmits with wood. Sixteen ami a half miles from Arena is the month of
the Albion Hiver, a very snndl stream, with the barest apoloj^y for a harbor at its
month. A saw-mill npon this stream indnces coasteis to obtain freij;lits here, but
a yreat many of those tradinj;' liave been lost. In 1<S."»;5 the Coast Survey steamer
Active passed in, but broke her anchor on the rocky bottom.

:\u:ndoc'ino uav.

Twenty and a half miles from Arena, and tour above Albi(m IJiver, is a con-
tracted indentation called Mendocino Hay, available for a few vessels in summer,
but dan,i;('rons in winter. The northern and southern i>oints are about thre«'-(piiir
ters of a mile a|»art, and the eastern shore retreats nearly half a mile. At the
southern head are several small rocks, and one larfte islet surrounded by rocks, otl"
Avhich are heavy breakers. Midway between the heads is a snndl reef upon whi<'h
the sea breaks heavily, with very little swell. Deep water is found close around
this reef. OH" the northern head is very bold water close to it. Int(» the north-
east i)art of the bay enters the river Noyon, or Ui(» Grauch', between two and
three hundred yards Avide, with a <>'ood chaniu'l on the southern side, a broad
sand Hat on the northern, and a bar at the mcmtli with but a few feet of water,
and ujton Avliich it always breaks. The eastern slnu'e is bold ami rocky. In the
southeastern )>art is a sand beach, Avith a reef extending' from its center.

The bay forms so slijiht an indentation in the coastline that it is diflicult to
tind without acquaintaiu'e Avith its minutest i)eculiarities, as there are no promi-
nent marks by which to determine it. The ncn-th head is a table bluff about sixtj'
feet hiji'h, and destitute of trees to the northward and some distance inshore. The
south bluft" is likewise destitute of trees, but more irregular in outline than the
other. Vessels bound for it in summer work a little to wiiulward; then run bohlly
in towaids the north i)oint, upon which the lumses become recojjnized, keej) as
close as ])ossible alon<;' the shore, jirachndly decreasing- the distance to one hun-
dred yards Just olt' the south eiul (»f the point in six fathoms, run on about one
hundred and lifty yards past the point, head np handsomely, ami anchor in live or
six fathoms, hard bottom. Jt is a bad berth in summer, and in winter a vessel

kjlt

IiiiiiIht .sliip.

■^lion-s to the

t.V-loiii- iiiih'S
^siii^- Aiviiii,
ii low slioro-
•' with ii lew
covcicd to

'<' IIMtlltll of

liirltor at its
ts liorc, hilt
'<'y .stciiiiicr

■r, IS a coii-
n .siiiiiiiicr,
lii'H'-fjiiiir
'. M the
■ rocks, otr
poll which
•«' ;ii'oiiii(l
he iiojtli-
two and
, ii Iti'oad
of water,
. Ill the

iflindt to

promi-
mt sixty
le. Tlie
fliJin tlie
u hohlly
I<<'<'I) as
lie liuii-

DUt Olio

1 five or
I \ essel

iUl

("OAST IMLOT OK CAMFOIfXIA. 93

must iiiiclior t'ur ciinii;'!! oiil to lu' iiltlc to sli|t licr ciihlc mid n'o to sen iiiioii the
first ii|»|)('iii'iiii<(' of II sdiitliciistt'i'. St'vciiil Vfssi'ls liavr lict'ii diivcii iisliurc licrc.

All cxti'iisivc siiw mill is lonitt'd on flic iiortli side of tlic river, soiih' distiiiin'
up: f< riiicrl.v (IS,"i;i) it wiis on the iioilli In-iid, hihI ii stiitioiiiir.v t'ii;;iiic wns plnrcd
nt>:ir tlic inoiitli of tlic rivrr to drnw loiided ciirs up the iurliiifd pliinr, wlit'iue
they Wfif driiwn to tlic mill. The lunibcr was slid down clmtcs into hw^v scows,
and carried to the anchorage.

The jtlace is soiiictiiiics called Meif-^fsville, hut }j;enerall,v it is known as AJendo-
eino.

The secondary astrononiical station of the Coast Survey is on the north head,
and its j4eoj;iapliical jiosititioii —

Latitude ;«» IS (MJ.I north.

Loii;;itude l-'.i 17 -'>M west.

/(. III. 1.
Or, in time S ir. («».7.

The computed ma;;iietic viiriation, ItP .'5.V' east, .Fiily 1S,"(7; iiiereasinf>' ahoiit
J' yearly.

Fro..! the jioiiit Just north of INIeiidociiio Hay, (the liist one made from Arena,)
the shore runs nearly straifi'ht for twenty eij:lit miles iioitli by west half west,
beiiifjlowand hounded by I'ocks for twelve miles, when the back hills reach the
water and present an almost vertical front two thousand feet in heijiht.

From tho (h'e]»est part of the bijiht the general trend of the coast to Ca])0
Mendocino is northwest tliree-cpiaiters west, and distant forty live miles, and for
jiart of this distance it is particularly bold and forbiddinji', the ranye of hills ruiiiiiii;n'
jKirallel to the shore and risiii;^ diicctly from it. At a distance of one mile from
shore the {icneral depth of water is twenty fathoms. About twenty siv miles north
of .Memhx'ino J>ay and twenty miles soiitli of Shelter ("ove is an indentation !:i the
coast line, locally known as Summer Harbor, whence a limited shipment of aj;ri-
eultural juoduce is made in summer.

For January l.sr»!>, the line of e([ual maji'iietic variation of 17^ east crosses tho
ooast-line in latiuide ;{{)° .W, and in latitude .'{!P 48' crosses the l-.")th degree of
longitmle. This line moves southward about a mile and a half annually.

siiEi/n^ii covio.

From the eom])act shore above described a jdateau, th'stitute of wood, and
from sixty to three hundred feet in heiftiit, makes s(piare out just above latitude
4(P north for a distance of half a mile, aflbrding an anchoraj;o from northwest winds,
and may, perhai)s, be rejianh'd as a harbor of refuse for small coasters which have
experienced heavy weather otf Cape ^lendoeino, and are short of wood and water,
both of which may be obtainetl here troiii one or two jiulches ojteniuf;' iijr.u tho sea.

From Point Arena it bears northw«'st by north, one-third north, distant sixty-
five miles. The whole sea-face of the blulf is bounded by thousands of rocks above
and below water, and vessels <'oming' from the north for shelter must give it a with'

! I :t''

I: M

94 COAST riLOT OF CALlFOliNIA.

borth, ronndiiiff it witliiu oiio-tliinl of a milo, and aiuthoriiip in five fathoms,
hnrd bottom, about onc-tliird of a mile from shore. In lliis position frcsli water
I'omt's dt>\vn a ravine bearing' ab»mt north, and an Indian vilhific existed in is."}.'} at
the bottom of the \voo(h'd ravine, a litth^ furtiier to the eastward. There is always
a swell lure, and boat-landi.'u; amy not be very easy.

The seeondary astronomical statii)n of the Coast Survey was on the southeast
part of the blutf, about sixty feet above the sea. Its geograplueal posititm ''■• —

Latitude 40 01 13.7 north.

Longitude 124 03 02.9 west.

h. m. ».
Or, in time 8 IG 12.2.

The computed magnetic variation, 17^ 22' east, in July 1857 ; increasing about
1' yearly.

T])on old Si>anish charts a point in this vicinity is designated Point Delgado,
perliaps referring to it. La Terouse, 17S7, calls it Punta del (iada.

Tebenkort's chart designates ic as Point Vizcaino, but locates it in latitude 3d^
48', longitu<le 1230 53'.

A hydrogrii.i)hic sketch of Shelter Cove accompanied the Coast Survey report
for isr.4.

About six miles northwestward of Slu'lter Cove, under a jutting point, a small
stream enters, called Marone Kiver on the laissinu chart of Tebenkoff. Thence to
Punta Gorda the coast is bordered by a good sand beach, while tlie hills, rising
behind it, are rounding, covered with .^n'.ss and hei'bage and sparsely tind)ered.
This characteristic of the hills exists IVoni Shelter Cove to Cape Mendocino, and
tl"^ valleys are dotted with settlers' houses, &c. The tops of the mountains are
covered with chapparal. One noticeable peak, about three miles inland and rising-
above the Coast range, Just north of Sheber Cove, attains an elevation of four
thousand eight hundred and eighteen feet, and another pruuiinent peak lies seven
an<l a halt' miles southeast of tht- former.

in iSiiT the light-hou^'.e steamer Shubri k was wrecked about six miles north-
ward of Shelter Cove.

PUNTA GORDA.

This headland is seventeen miles northwest by west one-half west from Shelter
Cove, and, as its nana' imi)lies, is a large, bold, rounding point. Haifa mile from
it lies a large rocky islet, with rocks close in slnne, north of the i)oint. From
Point Arena it bears nortlnvest three-quarters north, distant eigiity-one miles,
and the line passing tangent to Punta Gm'da runs one mile outside of Cape
Mendocino.

Cape Fortnnas is called I'unta (lorda by La Pcrouse.

Tel)enki>fi'designa*"" Punta Cbirda as Point Delgailo.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOENIA.

CAPE MENDOCINO.

This mmiiitninous hcailland, torniiiifi' tlic wcstciii limit oftlio noithwcst trend
of the (!()ii.st hence tVoiii I'oint Keyes. is ninetyti:ree miles n()rtli\v«'st v!!i'<"'-';uiir-
ters north from Pniita <le Arena, and from the eape to the tStraiglit of I'lua the
general trend of the (joast is north-northwest.

Here the ranj^e of hold coast hills from the sonthward ai)|)oars to meet a range
from the eastward, forming ridg's of fonrteen hniidred feet elevation within a mile
of the coast, with peaks of tweuiv-tive hundred to three thousaiid feet within ten
uules of the sea.

The face of the cape is steep and rocky near the water-Une; above that the
general appvarance is rolling and grass-covered, except in the deep valleys and
upon some of the steep liill-sich's.

The well marked and regularly-shaped pyramidal rock immediately olf the
pitch of the ca])e, and known as the iSngar-loaf or Haystack, is a readily distin-
guished feature in ai>i>roacliing it from the lunth or south, and from seaward. It
is three hundred aud twenty-eight feet above tiie sea, .lud bears wc^st IS^ south
one third of a mile from the light.

The large rocky islet ott" the face of Cape Fortunas is not so regularly shaped.

("ai)e Menihicinois noted for having a snudl dangerous ledge, l)are at all tides,
lying three miles broad off it, and known as Blunt's lieef. Tin; larger breaker of
this reef be.u's west 10^ scuth from the light, and distant three miles; the
smaller breaker is ,i short distance to the northeastward of tin- f(!rmer. This reef
"warS noticed by Yi.'.icouver as being .vbout one leagut otf shon-. (\'ol. I, j). JUS.)

The passage between the reef ami the cajio has been generally used by the
coasting stean;ers and hnuber vessels, but a recent )>'«'liminary exai:"i!.ii.'tu shows
it to be a dangerous hu-ality that should be avoided. At low tides, with a large
swell fr(»in the westward, and smooth surface, several hea\y breakers are o<"ca-
sionally seen.

A great break bears west 21 P south from the light, ami ai»|)arently the same
distance therefrom as IJlunt': Keef. This does not break at half-tide and veiy
seldom at low-w.iter, but it is very heavy when it ih)es occur.

Beiv'f'en that grei.t break and Blunt's I teef. but probably three (juaiters of a
mile nearer the cai)e, are three breaks, bearing respectively west l.^ip south, west
l(ii° south, and west Isp sop'h from the light. They do lutt occur frecpu'ntly.

Nearer the ciijte thai' .o Blunt's Iteef are three sunken ro( ks, showing breaks
at low water, andonv rock awashat half tide. From the liglit keepei''s dwelling the
northernmost ttne l»ears west 1!>.^^ south, distant three ((uarters of a mile from the
Haystack ; the second bears south .">(P west fi'om t!ie dwelling, and is about three-
quarters of a mile from the Haystack; the third bears s(»utli .S,\o west from the
dwelling, and is about oih' li'ile from tiu' Hisystavk. Tiie f'ourtii, awasli at half-
tide, is , n the same bearing as the last, but nearer (!u' Haystack.

There nuiy be a clear passage of one mile in width between these dangers, and

96 COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

there may be sutticient wiito; upon some of tlieiu for ordinary vei'sels and steamers
to pass over them, hai until the present .survey settles the dout)t it will be prudent
to avoid th'"'. i)assage.

Steamers have passed dangerously near sonu* of these snnlcei) rocks, and, in
J857, one was distinctly seen almost under the Avlieel of the steamship Coau;!odore.

In January l.S(»(), the steamship Northerner struck upon one oi' these loeks.
Tlio weather was slif>htly hazy; hmji', large f>Toiuul-sweIl from the northwest ;
little wind and low tide. She was bouiul up the coast, and going over ten knots
per hour. As her bow sunk in the trough of the sea a A'ery slight jar was felt
forward, exciting no alarm among the uninitiated. The pumps Avere imnu-diately
sounded andtlu' ship found to be making water very fast. She headed for Jium-
boldt, but was beached near the northern side of Cape Fortunas, where shoal
water extends out ibr a quartc" of a mile, aiul went to pieces in a heavy southwest
blow that sprang up.

CAPE :me^docixo light.

The tower stands on the outermost part and about 'one-third of the h(>ight of
the ca]M! above the sea. It is a frustum of a ])yrami<l of sixteen sides, twenty
feet high from base to focal plane, constructed of iron, painted wliite and sur-
mounted by a l.uitern and illumiiuiting api)aratus of the first order of the system
of Fresnel. The dome of the lantern is painted red. The light is a rcrolrinf/ white
lUjhi^ shoicinffafash every half minitte. Tlu^ duraticm of the flash is live seconds,
of the partial (,bs.'uration live seconds, of the total eclijjse lifteen seconds, uiul of
the second partial obscurati(»n five seconds.

The focal plane of the light is four hundred and twenty-six feet above the nu'an
level of the sea, and should be visil)le, in a favorable state of the weather, Irom a
height of —

10 feet at a distance of 27.2 miles.

20 .'eet at a distance of 2S.7 miles.

;{0 feet at a distance of .'50.0 mih's.

(iO fee*^ at a tlistaiu-e of .'32..> miles.

Tlie geographical position of the light, as determined by the United States
Coast Survey, is —

O ' "

Latitude 40 20 17 north.

Longitude 124 21 10 west.

/(. VI. M.

Or, in time ^ 17 'M'k~.

And tlu' computed magnetic variation for .January 1.^70, is (7° 21' east.

Tlic bght lias an arc of visibility irom north 7° west to south 23^ east, and can
be seen olV Humboldt liar.

The lighthouse keeper's dwelling is a two story brick buililing', with a wing of
oiU! stciv on each side. Its <!olor is brick-red, with green blinds to the windows, ind

is and .steamers
will be piiuleiit

rocks, iuid, ill
ip Coiiiiijodore.
)<■ tliese locks,
the iiortlnvest ;
tver ten knots
It jar was felt
e immediately
ided for IJnm-
, Avlieie slioal
•d\y soutliMest

tlie height of
sides, twenty
lite and sur-
jf the system
Tolchiff white
five seconds,
■onds, and of

iiV

'<}■•

>ve the mean
ther, from a

lited States

17 north.
10 west.

east.

st, and can

I a winy of
idows, !uitl

fifl!

]i t

V ]

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOKXIA. 97

is .situatctl two Iniiulrod and ton yai'ds sonthoast by east from tlio lifjlit, and four
liundri'd and sixty foot above the sea. Tlic lij-lit and dwelling are both i)roje('ted
ayaiiist the face of the eape from niosl jxtsitioiis .seaward.

From t'ai)e ^lendoeino the foilowiiij;' bcarin^is and distances arc {jiven :

To Point Arena, southeast thrce-tjuartcrs south 0.> miles.

To Trinitlad Head, north o!> miles.

To J{e(hlin<!,'s IJoek, north threo-qtmrters west ."»(> miles.

To Crescent City li^ht, north by west 7(M miles.

To Cape Oiford, north by west seven-eighths west l-l.") miles.

CAPE jnJNDOCrTo.

The extent of shore-line from Point Boneta to Cape ^Eemlocino is about two
liundred and twenty-four ' '.es.

It is generally stated that .Fuan Rodriguez Cabrillo named this eape in honor
of Don Antonio de Mendoza, the viceroy of ^fexico; but the highest latitude he
reached was Punta de los Keyes, to which he in reality applied that name. Jt is
quite i)robable that under the lee of the rocks off this Cape Ferrelo, the julot and
successor of Cabrillo, anehored on the last of February 154.}, and nanu'd it Cabo
de Fortunas, (Cape of Perils,) although he jtlaces his position in latitiule 4.'{°. The
m'xt day he may have been olf Trinidad Head experiencing heavy northerly
Aveather, and his observations might have placed him in latitiule 44°, but with his
vessels, adxerse currents, and a dead beat to windward, he could not ha\e made a
degree of latitude inadi<v. Here he turned back, passed the Golden CJate on
March .3, and reached the is'.and of Santa Cruz on the oth. It is utterly impossi-
ble that with his small crazy vessels he could make eight hundred miles (the dis-
tance from latitude 44° to Santa Cruz) in four day.--.

La Perouse did not see the cape, but places it in 40^' 07'. Between 40° ,'?8' and
3G° 5S' he aitpears to have been carried thirty miles to the southward by the cur
rent, and a little off shore. This off-shore set of the current has since been often
experienced.

Seven miles south of ^Arendocino a small stream called the ]\rattole empties.
Upon the sides of the hills, in lower Mattole, and not above a mile from the Pacitic,
coal oil springs were discovered in 18(!l. Along the course of this stream are
numerous bottom lands under cultivation.

CAPE FORTUNAS, OU FALSE IMENDOCINO.

This head lies northward of Cape ]\Ieiidocino, distant five or six miles, and is
another bold spur of mountaimms headland, similar ami almost as high as that
cape. Between the two the shore recedes slightly, is depressed, and forms a beach
receiving a small stream called Bear or .McDonald's Creek, coming down through
a k:\vi\aw valley, now well settled. Off" this vi\\)v. lie several rt)cky islets present-
ing the same peculiarities as those off" ]\lendocino. There is no beach at the base
of the almost perpendicular sea tiice.
1. 5*

COAST I'lLOT OF CALIFOKNIA.

Ill

The regular survey of these heads and the dangers surrounding them is in
progn'ss. It is reported that the soundings have been obtained well to the west-
ward of the caiw; should such prove correct, the fact will be of importance to ves-
sels, especially steamers bound north or south, when near the coast and enveloped
in fog, as it would enable them to judge of their pohition and change their course.
Tebenkoffs chart has forty-nine fathoms over sandy bottom, nearly three miles,
outside of any rocks laid down ofif the cape.

After passing it the shore changes to a straight, low, sandy head, with valleys
running some distance inland.

We have named this headland Cape Fortunas, to avoid the repetition of Men-
docino, and to commemorate Ferrelo's discoveries.

La Pdrou^e calls this cape Punta Gorda.

Eel River is a small stream with a bar at its mouth, and distant fourteen mile^j
from Cape ^lendocino. It is very contracted and crooked, receiving the waters of a
great many slues near its mouth, and draining a most fertile valley, which is rap-
idly filling up with settlers.

An extensive business in salmon fisheries is carried on near the mouth.

The first vessel that entered it was a scjhooner, in the spring of 1850, when
searching for Humboldt Bay. She thumped over the bar, which is said to have
nine feet of water upon it at high tide. A greater depth of water is claimed on
the bar, six and a half feet having been found at low water; and several cargoes
of i)roduce have been carried out. The Indian name for the river is Wee-ot. It
rises by two heads iu about latitude 39° 30', about thirty miles from th& coast, aiid
runs nearly parallel with it. One head of a small branch called the South Fork
is only five miles from the coast, a short distance south of Shelter Cove.

nUMBOLDT BAY.

The entrance to this bay lies twenty-one miles from Sugar Loaf Islet, off Cape
Mendocino, and the bar north by east twenty-one miles from lilunt's Kocks. The
bar is one and a cpiarter mile from the entrance between the sand i)oints, or two
miles from the southwest and highest point of Red Blufl", which is the second bluff
abo\'e IjcI River. Ijike all the bar rivers on this coast, it undergoes irregular
changes, depending much upon the prevalence, direction, and strength of the
wijul. Early in 18.51 it bore northwest, distant two miles from Red IJluff, and
about half a mile frou) the beach of the north spit. Three and a half fathoms
were found upon it, with a width of two hundred and fifty yards between the
three-fathom curves, retaining nearly the same width, and running on a southeast
course towards the bluff, but approaching closer to the north than to tlie south
spit. When between the two, the depth of water was increased to eleven fathoms,
suddenly shoaling to four fathoms inside. Vessels kept the north spit within one
huiulred and fifty to two hundred and fifty yards on the port hand for two or three
miles after entering. In the fall of 1852 the bar w.is reported to have moved to
the northward about its entire width, and the ranges for going in, as laid down by

Jtsi

tlieni is ill
a the Avest-
uce to ves-

euveloi)ed
leir course.
Iirce miles.

ith valleys

)u of Meu-

teen uiile'j
ateis of a
icli is rap-

th.

^50, wlieu
to have
aimed on
I cargoes
p<-'-ot. It
oast, aiul
ith Fork

off Cape
ks. The
, or two
•ml bluif
rregular
of the
uff, and
fathoms
een the
ntheast
3 sonth
itlioms,
liin one
ir three
•ved to
)wu by

■w

1' I

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

the sni'voy of the previous year, were entirely useh'ss. In the winter of 18.j;5-'.) 1
the liiir clinii^ietl iimch, and often suddenly. In the si)riiif«- of IS.TMf was more
than its jofvious widtli to the southward of its i>osition in 1S,")1, and the depth of
water had decreased, until in June of that year, when it was over half a mile in
extent, with oidy sixteen feet of water at high tide. A bare siH>t then showed at
the lowest tides west-northwest of the end of the south spit. In that year a
stran}>(^ brij^ thumped over the nmtli sands wliile on the eoiirse prescribed by the
sailin}>- directions of 1S,">1. In 1S57 less than thirteen feet at hifjh tide (iould bo
found upon it, and its extent was very much increased. Eventually a deep and
mirrow channel was cut throuj;h. In April 1S<>!), the bar had suflicient water for
the largest bunber-laden vessels, but within the previous two months had moved
a mile and a half to the northward of its winter i>ositio»r, and in the same time
the north })oiiit of the entrance had f(»rmed nearly half a nule to the southward.
About lSr>U a steam-tug was placed upon the bay, and has rendered the nu)st
eHicient service in determining the dianges of the bar. When vessels are seen
approaching the bar a tlag is hoisted on lied Ijlutt", and the tug goes out to take
them in. If it is breaking so heavily on the bar that she cannot get through it, and
it is yei practicable for the vessel to run in, she takes up a ])osition and hoists her
flag as a signal for the vessel to steer for her. She is invaluable in towing out
the deejtly laden lund)er vessels, as the summer winds blow directly in the channel.
In .Tune IS-jl, a brig (h'ejdy laden with s]>ars lay in the bay waiting for an oppor-
tunity to get (mt. She had made several attemi»ts to beat through the then narrow
channel, but always failed, and had in this manner (X'cupied thirty one days. In
]\Iarch isr»4, the C!oast Survey party laid fourteen days off the entrance, and
passed in Avhen the water v.as breaking on the bar. A preliminary chart of the
entrance to Ihnnboldt Bay was issued from the Coast Survey Ottice in 1851. It
was subsetpu'utly resiirveyed, and the chart of 18r)8 shows ihat the bar was one
and three-eighths mile from the highest part of lied Bluff, which bore east by
south half south. It then had a dei»th of three and three-(piartei's fathoms, and
a M'idth of six hundred yards between the three-fathom lines. North ami south
breakers marked as usual the boundaries of the channel, which ran straight and
close to the south spit.

In Ai)ril ]8r>0, we received the following information in regard to it from an
assistant who was there with us in 1851 and 185-1: "The bar is now a mile south
of where it was in 1851, three-(piarters of a nule north of where it was last winter,
and has live fathoms upon it. All the north jHiint of the entrance is washed away,
including the small higoon on the inner side." A large can buoy is anchored (I8GU)
in sixteen fathoms of water, west three-cpiarters north from the bar, west half
north from the light house, and northwest by west three-quarters west from Bed
Blidf. It has a very heavy anciior and mooring-chain, and vessels frequently hold
on by it in thick, unfavorable weather. Vessels c(miing up Ww coast in sixti'cii
fathoms, in moderately thick, dark weather, can hardly fail to lind this mark.

The best advice we can offer in regard to entering the bay Is to icaitfor the tug.

1(K) COAST PILOT OF (^AIJKOKNIA.

From oxiK'rimciits iiiiKlc in isril we CouihI tlie cbh ciHTcnl to niii llii'«'t> miles
\M'V lioiir, with a inaximiim velocity ol" lour iiii<l live miles i)ef\veeii the points of
en'tranee. In ISd? we lonnd the ebb cnnvnt running to the west-northwest from
th(^ bar, settin}"' the vessel well oil" shore.

In IStJl the steamship Columbia wasdetaiiiod in tlie bay sixdaysby unusimlly
lieavy weather; at the same time a lumber-laden bark was unabh* to eioss tiio
bar for twenty live days. The tirst reported ease of any vessel being struck l»y
lightning on this coast hai)pened at Humboldt, February 2."», 1801.

ni'MBOLDT HAY LlGIIT-IIOl^SK.

This building is erected on the north spit, tlircc-cjnarters of a mile north of
the entrance, and abcuit midway between the bay and sea-shores. It consists of a
k»'e|)er's dwelling, of one and a half stories, with a tower rising twenty-one teet
above the centre of the roof; l)oth being |>lastered and whitewashed, and sur-
mounted by an iron lantern jiainted red. The light is a Jiied icltitv liijlit of tlui
fourth order of the system of Fresnel, and illuminates the entires hori/on. It is
tifty-tlnx'c feet above high water spring tides, and should be seen In clear weather
from u height of —

10 feet at a distance of IL* miles.

2i) feet at a distance of l.'U miles.

.'}(> feet at a distance of 14A miles.

Its geographical position, as determined by the Coast Survey, is:

O ' "

Latitude 40 4(5 (KJ.O U(n-th.

Longitude IL'4 12 L'l west.

/(. III. 8,

Or, in time 8 10 4!).4:

Magnetic variation, 17° 00' e.ast, in July 185.'5, increasing about 1' yearly.

The light, which is a secondary sea-coast, was Urst exhibited December 20,
1850, and slutws from sunset to sunrise.

A light on ]{ed IJhilf, which is nearly one hundred feet high, would always
serve as a leading range, as the tlag-statf and ensign placed there are now thus
used by the pilots. It would be distinguishable readily at sea, when the present
one might be obscured by the mist hanging over the surf on the beach. During
the day the white buildings would be a capital mark against the gi'eeu hills and
trees in the background. This view, now and formerly expressed, has been repeat-
edly and earnestly urged upon our attention by uuiuy captains, merchants, and
the i»ilots of Ilumbohlt Bay.

Tides. — The cori-ected establisluuent, or mean interval between the time of
the moon's transit and the time of high Avater, is 12/t. 2m., and the dilfereuce
between the greatest and least intervals is l/(. llw. The mean rise and fall of
tides is 4.4 feet; of spring tides, ;"».5 fei't; and of neap tides, 3.5 feet. The mean
duration of the tlood is (»//. l!t)«.; and of the ebb, iih. 00/h.

C(UST PILOT OF CALirOKNIA.

101

Tli«' {jrcntcst observed dilVereiiee Itetweeii tlie two low wiiters of one dny was
4,1 I'eet; iiiid tlie ^ireatest dinereiice between the lii;;lier lii;;li iind lowei' low
waters of one day was !».0 i'eet.

To Iind the times o\' lii;;Ii and low waters, lirst eonipiite the times I'ui' Astoria,
iind from tlie nnndters so obtained sabtniet forty minutes foi' Humboldt l>ay.

The bay is situated immediately behind the low sandjspits and dunes, and
extends nine miles north and four miles south of the entrance; beinff (HUitructed
to h'ss than half a mile in width between tins south spit and Ked IMulT, it then
expands to nearly three miles, and runs a mile and a half to the eastward of
Table, DliitV. The sin;ile ehanuel runninj^ into this part of the bay divides into
two crooked oiu's, which contain froui orn- to tiiree fathoms of water; all the rest
shows a baie mud Hat at low tides. Abreast (»f the entrance it is nearly a mile in
width, with extensive sands, bare at low tides, lyin;,Mnidway between the oi>positt)
shores, and runnin<( nearly parallel Avith them. To the northward its averaj^e
width is half a mile for a distance of three and a lialf miles. It then ex[)ands into
ji hn};e, shallow sheet of water, haviu};- two or three crooked channels throu;;h it,
but the j;Teater part beinj; bare at h)w tides, showinj;- extensive mud tiats, bor-
dered by a f^rassy Hat nearly a mile in width. Jn the channel way close to the
north spit, not h'ss than three fathoms nuiy be carried, increasing' for three miles
to six and a half fathoms. One mile ii(>rth of the entrance, and on the eastern
side, ent«'rs ii small stream called Elk Jtiver. Two miles north of the entrance,
and on the east side, is situated the town of Ijncksjjort, olV which a depth of three
and a half fathoms is found within one hnndn'd and lifty yards of tlu! shore. Ves-
sels are got alouf^side the saw-mill wharf here at hif;h tide to load; at low tides
they rest upon tlie muddy bottom. The military station of Fort IIund)oldt is on
a reservation on the bluff about one hundred feet hij^h, and immediately behind
the town. On the samii si<h', and four miles north of the entrance istheto.vi.
Eureka, oil" which is a [Mirtionof the channel, havin;;' nearly three fathoms in it, 1. i.
no channel reachiu},' it havinf>' more than one and a half fathoms. The town w.is
hiid out before this latter fact was .liscovered. Vessels lie at tin; wharves, rest-
ing on tli(^ nmd at low tide. Abreast of Eureka lie several low marsJiy islands
cut up by slues and ponds. The larg<'st, called Indian Island, is about a mile
long (northeast) by half a mile in width. It is marked by two hillocks, sur-
mounted by dumps of trees, near which Av<(re (IS.")!) < ' < lal wretched Indian huts.
The smaller islands lie between this ami tin; eastern shore and paiallel with it.
Areata, formerly LTniimtown, is situated on the northeast shore of the l)ay, ami can
only be reached by boats at high tide. It is the starting point for the Trinity and
Klamath mines. From it an extensive wharf stretches far out over the nnul tlat,
Avhicli vessels can reach at high tides.

The southern spit from the entrance to Table I^lntT does not average one-
quarter of a mile in width; is formed of low sand dunes and giJissy hillocks, and
bordered on the bay sid(! by maish. At the southern -, \i:<'mity rises Table IJIulV,
which the name well describes, to a height of about two humlred feet, its western

^1^

H
It

102

COAST PILOT (W (^VLll'OllNIA.

point iioai'ly roacliiiiff flic soa beach, and foriniii};a {^ood landmark for niakin;,' tli«
bay. I'^ivo miles cast of it llie bills c(»nimence risiiifr. Abr«'ast oC the iioilli end
of the sctiith spit rises lied Illull', piescntiiifj towards the enlraiie<' a perpendicular
face, composed of sand and {jravel colored by the d(>composition of iron ore near
its snrface, which is ninety-six feet above hijjh water, and destitute (»f tice or
brush. The bay front of the bluft" is about one-third of a mile lon^', ^'radually
decliuin}'' to the low, tiat land to the north, and also falliii}? away to tlu^ south and
cast. On this blutf the ))ilots have a tlaj;-stalV to rauf^o with known jioints of
trees beyond, by Aviiich they cross the bar and keep the run of its ehanfjes.. At
the base of the hi^jhest i)art of this blutf we discovered, in ISol, a tooth and part
of tlie tusk of the primeval elephant. The low land on the eastern shore above
Ited Hlurt" averajjes half a mile in width, and runs as far as Hureka, gradually
chaufiin^' to marsh, and bounded by plateaus ami hills covered with wood. The
iiortli spit averages half a mile in width, and its southern extremity is (!om|»osed
of sand dunes and grassy hilhxiks disp<»sed in a marked manner parallel with tiio
direction of the northwest winds. Two miles from the entrance, trees cover the
hillocks and run northward one mile, when a space of ii mile occurs without them.
After that tliey continue along the shore.

It has been erronecuisly asserted that this bay was discovered from sea in
Ajn'il 1850, and by land in 1SH»; but the following account from Ti'benkolf's
descrii>tion of the charts in his atlas published in 181S, with a(!cr auyiug chart
containing soundings and details of Indian Island, &c., settles tl cstion :

"About eight and a half miles from the port of Trinidan is situated the
entrance to the Hay of Indians, called entrance of llezanotf. liy the colonial doc-
uments of the Itussian-Anu'rican Company, it appears that it was discovered by
citizens of the United States. In ISOG there was in it, (on an American vessel,)
wider command of AVinschep, a sea-otter party of Aleutians, under the direction
of Slabotchikolf, which was met by the Indians inimically. This bay is not fully
described, but it is known that it is very large; somewhat resembles the Bay of
San Francisco, only the entrance to it for vessels of large class is not convenient,
and with strong southwest winds it is even impossible with any vessel. The
depth at the entrance is two sajhen, (twelve feet,) and then it breaks on the bar."

He placed the south point of the entrance in latitude 40° oo'A, longitude
124° 08'.0.

It was named Ilezanolf after the Russian ambassador to Japan in 1804, and
vho had inliuenccd the Emperor Paul not to break up the Kussian- American
Company.

The present name was given to the hay in 1850, by those rediscovering it
from sea.

The Indian name of the bay is Qual-a-waloo.

Mad Rher is said to emiity into the sea about a mile north of the north-
western part of Humboldt r>ay. It averages ahout one hundred yards in width,
with a bar at its entrance that prevents egress; but the vast amount of timber in

r ninlviiif; tlie
tlut iioi'tli end
IM>r]i('ii(liculiir
iron ore iiciir
itc (»r tree or
iifj, {.'liidiiiilly
Mio Hoiitli and
iwn ]ioiiit.s of
cliiinfit'H. At
)otli iind pint
hIkhc above,
>ka, )j;radnally
1 wood. Tli(!
' is (toniposcd
alk'l witli the
H's <'ovt'r tiio
ivithoiit tlieiu.

d from sea in
1 Tt'l>('nkoir',s
"anying chart

estion :

situatod Hio
! colonial doc-
iliscovcred by
I'rican vessel,)
:• tlie direction
ay is not tally
les the Bay of
ot convenient,
' vessel. The
:s on the bar."
5'.4, longitude

in 1804, and
sian-Ainericau

discovering it

of the iiorth-
ards in width,
it of timber in

COAST riLOT OF CALTFOKXIA.

103

the valley lias found a passage by a small canal to the northwest point of rium-
boldt ]}ay. A deep slue from the latter is said to approach quite close to Mad
Eiver, thus favoring the execution of such a project.

This river is the Eio de los Tortolas of Heceta and Bodega, 1775.

TUINIDAD HEAD AKD BAl'.

Trinidad Head lies north half west seventeen and a half miles from the
bar of Jluiiiboldr Bay, and north thirty-nine miles Irom Cape Mendocino. The
low sand beach otl' Humboldt continues past Mad Kivcr to within a coui)le of
miles of Trinidad Bay, when it changes to a blun', guarded by innumerable rocks.
For tlie entire distance of the low beach a depth of from ten to lifteeu fathoms
may be found one mile from the shore.

The bay or roadstead of Trinidad is very contracted ; but having deep water,
aiid all dangers visible, forms a moderatf'ly good summer anchorage. Tljo
" head," forming the western shore of the roadstead, and a prominent mark when
seen from close in, is about three hundred ami seveuty-tive feet high, covered
with a low, thick undergrowth of scrub bushes, has very steei) sides, and eight
fathrais close to its southern base. Otf the western face, for nearly half a mile
out, lie several high, rocky islets, with one one-half a mile south of it, but having
nine fathoms close co it. FroiP the south face eastward to the three-fathom curve
the distance is one mile, and the depth of the bight to the northward of this line
is about half a mile, Avith half a dozen rot; ■> lying outside the three-fathom line,
but Avel' above Avater. In the ncu'tl.ern part of tiu^ bay there is a sand beach
extendin- about half a mile; thence eastward the shore is very rocky, tlie bluff
being about three hundred feet high, and covered with a heavy growth of timber.
The town, formerly a place of some promise, fronts on the northwest part of the
roadstead, and the boat-landing is on J.m north side of a round knoll nudcing out
about one iiundrod yards from the low neck running to the "head." A wharf is
now built heie, at which vessels lie to load lumber. A very considerable quantity
of seaweed lies otf the shore.

In working into the anchorage beat in boldly past the outermost rock until the
rock Just off the eastern side of the head is in range with the knoll (having a few
trees upon it) between the town and the head, with the south face of the head
bi'aring west by north, Jind aiu-hor in seven fathoms, tiard bottom, within one-
third of a mile of the rock and head, having the ne k visible to the westward of
the knoll, and a sugar-loaf lock beyond the neck showing over it. A swell will
generally be found setting in. In winter it is a dangerous anchorage, and if a
vesscd is unliu'kily caught, her chances of riding out a southeaster are very few.
Several Spanish vessels were wrecked here when it was visited by them, and a
nund)er of vessels have been lost within tin- last eight years. In reUru-ry 1S.51,
the bark Aicadia was totally lost in a southeast gale, her ground tackie being
insufli<Ment to hold her.

A chart of Trinidad Bay is pulilished by the Coast Surv»'y.

Ilh

T|7^

104 COAST PILOT OF CAL11'X)I{N1A.

TIic socondary asfroiioiniciil station of the Coast Snrvoy was on tlio nock near
tlip town. Its tf('Of;Tai)hiral i)ositi(»n is:

o ' "

Latitntlc H 0.} L'(M» north.

Lonf^itndc, 121 OS (»,S west.

h. m. H.
Or, in time S 1(» ;{L'.5.

The town tliirinj'' the wintci" is nearly (h'serted, hut a brisk lra(h' is carried on
in snnniier. Tlie connection witli San Francisco by steamers is now rej^ular.
The land in tliis vi inity is very rich, and well adapted to aj^ricMllnre. The red-
wood trees yiow aroniid it, and attain an enorinons size. Tlie stnni]) of one of
which we measured was about twenty feet in diameter, aiul a dozen trees stand-
inji in the vicinity avei-aijiMl over ten feet. One is allirnied to be standinji' on the
bank of a small stream at tbe southeast part of the bay, that measuics over
ninety feet in circumference. The bark of thes(^ trees has a lhi<Uness of from
eifj'ht to fourteen inches; they f^row i)erfectly straij;ht, retaininj;' their thickness
to a i;Toat heijiht, bej^in to branch at lifty or one hnndri'd feet, an<l frccinenlly
attain two luni Ired and lifty feet in height.

'vl'oit Trinidad" was discovered June 10, 177.5, by Ileccta and Uodena, and
placed in latitude 11° 07' north. Near it they place a stream which they call the
Eio de los Tortolas, or rijicon Kiver ; this is now called Mad l\iver.

It was visited in INLay 1793, by Vancouver, who says, (\o\. 11, \y,\<xi> L»ir>:) "In
an excursion made by Mr. Menzies to the hill composiu}^ the prqjectinj>' headland
that ftu'ius the northwest si(h' of the bay, he found, af>reeably with Senor 3Iau-
relli's descrii)tion, the (wooden) cross which the Spaniards had erected on their
takiujj lutssessiou of the port; and thoui;li it was in a cei'taiu state of decay, it
admitted of his copying" the Ibllowiiig inscription: '■ Carolun HI. Del ({. Jlys^mni-
anim iiV.r.' "

Vancouver placed ii in latitude 11° 01' ncuth. — (Vol. I, payc 200.)

The Indian nam*' of the bay is Sho-ran.

Ill sonu' Ameiican majts, antecedent to the Coast Survey determinations on
the Pacilic, the indentation of the coast between .Alendocino and Trinidad was
called "15ay of Trinidad."

The shore runninjj lunthwest by north from Trinidad Head for live miles is
xcmarkably broken ami rocky, which iudiu'cd Vancouver to call its in)rthern
extremity llocky Point. lie placed it in 41° 08'. About om^ mile olf it lie several
rocks that are sometinu's known as the "Turtles." Tebeidvoff gives sixty-live
lathoms three and a half miles broad (»tf this broken shore.

In January KtO;}, Vizcaino's vessels separated during heavy Aveather, and
the smaller sailed, under Antonio Flores, the |)ilot, to the northward in search of
Vizcaino; and when in latitude 11°, with a gale from the southwest, he ran before
it until he found shelter behind a great rock, wiiere he anchored.

l'"'rom liocky Toint the shore takes a gentle swee]) eastward, making its great-

COAST PILOT OF CALlFOKNL\..

105

U's IS

llU'l'Il

,-(ivo

iiiid
•li of

est iii(UMitiitioii at the north ciul of the oiico tiinioiis Gohl JJhiH', in hititudo -IP 27'
iioitli, iiihI lon^itiKh^ 124° 03' west, and then trcndinfj: westward to CreswMit City,
(lold Uhill'liasiin extent often niihis, and is very l)<>hl and lii^Ii.

ISelween Koeky Point and (rilion lilnlV, uliieli is th(^ lirst one to the north-
ward, there is a stretch of Utw sanil beach, iinniediately Iteiiind wliich is an exten-
.sive laji'ooii several niili's in h'n};lli, and from a quarter to one mile in widlli. It
lies pai-alh'l with tlio b(?ach, and at some seasons is not conuooted with the ocean,
hut .at others an opening exists at the northern extreniity.

Tlie Fndian name of this hi{><M)n is ylO-sho'-slio-ran.

]if<l<1iii(j liocl:—W\u'n ahreast of Rocky Point, ah )nt hititiide 41° 08', Red-
ding liock is visihh> from a vessel's (h'ck, and with the morning sun shining njion it
presents the ai)pearan('e A' a whitish cone of e((iial sides and base. When se(.'u
froni the west-southwest (eonii)ass) the northern face is nearly perpendicular aiul
the southern lain' j^lopes about one in two, with a Avhitisli surface and (hirk base.
Its ek'vation is eigiity-three feet ami it lies live miles lnoad otV vJold JJlulf, in
latitude lio L'l', ami longitud<^ 121° 10'. It is a single, large, rocky islet about two
hundr<Ml feet high, and rejtorted to have dee]) water all around it, with no outly-
ing dangers; but its vicinity has not been surveyed. Vancouver places it in lati-
tude 41° 2iV on his chart, and four miles oil shore; but in the narrative; states tho
distance at half a league, and that it is half a mile in cinuiit. His track lies
inside of it. We have been informed that a reef, commencing at the shoie two
miles above the rock, stretches out a short distaiu;e towards it. Tebeukolf calls it
IMrd Rock; it received its present mnne in 1810 or LSoO,

KLAMATH IJIVKK.

Two miles oft" shore from Rocky Point to tl nouth of the Klamath River
the depth of water varies from eighteen to ten falhoiu^. lietween Redding Rod
and the Klamath Tebeukolf gives thirty-five and thirty fallioui mIhkU tiiree mmUm
otf shore.

Tlu! mouth of this river is in latitude 41° 33' north, longitude 121° O.V w»'st.
It is, perhaps, two hundred yards wide, having a long sand-si»it on the south side
running northwest, and i)araliel to the high hills that form the uortli simrc.
South of the entrance for a mile and a half are outlyin,"; rocks, and at the north
side of the entrance lie several others. It is reported to have two and a half
fathoms upon the bar. Upon passing it in 18.">3, within less than a mile, the
-was breaking across it, and no ai)pcarance of a safe channel was presented. ill

Bchooners enter it; but we have been assured that the mouth was coni[»letely
closed in the winters of 1851 and 18G0, and that the bar changes with every
changi; of heavy weather.

]\lcArthur re])orted in 18."i0: "The river has seventeen feet on the bar at mean
low water. It is not dillicudt of entrance with a good breeze, but very dillicult to
get out of, the current riuming' so strong that sailing vessels must «!ome out steru
14*

wur?

106

COAST PILOT OF CALIFOENIA.

foromost to be steored." He did not, however, enter the river. In 18G0 the tng
from IlnmboUlt IJny endeavored to enter, but couhl not find sntticient water,
although it was very smooth; when tlie swell came in on the second day, she had
to throw her remaining freight overboard and ])nt to sea.

Thi'ee or four miles northward of the Klamath is a small sharp indentation at
the mouth of a guhrh, off which lie one large and several small rocks; but from a
distance of a mile and a half we were unable to determine whether any stream
opened here. It has., however, received the name of False Klamath, because it
has misled small coasters seeking for the Klamath. altlK igh there is no sand
point «)n either side, as exists at the latter. The State map of ('alifornia. has a
creek called Ahmen opening here. The coast continues bold for several miles,
when the hills begin to rece(hi and the shores present many pleasant slopes, unin-
cumbered with forests ami under cultivation. Tlu- shore is low and regularly
s\vc('i)s to the westward for a couple of miles, forming the roadstead, which will
be next described.

CRESCENT CITY BAY.

This, the most dangerous of the roadsteads usually resorted to on the coast,
has acquired much impcntance on account of the town (Crescent City) being the
depot for the supplies of miners working the gold diggings on rhe Klamath,
Trinity, and Salmon Kivers. It is filled with sunken rocks ami reefs, and has a
goodly number showing above water. No vessel should think of guning an anchor-
age here without a pilot, or perfect knowledge of the hidden dangi !'s. No sr.nkeu
rocks are now known to exist outside of the line of visible ones, except one awash,
southwest three-quarters west, and a little more than half a mile distant from the
lighthouse. A depth of ten fathoms exists all around it, and seven en* ei,4ht
fathoms outside of the \isible rocks. The usual anchorage is on a line between
the light house and the north side of the large islet three-(iuarters of a mile eii.^t of
it, in three and a (piarier faihoms, hard bottom. To reach this position r'ln for
the small, r(mnd rock bearing southeast seven-eighths east, sev«'n-eigliths of a
mile from the light-houses; pass it on the east side, giving it a berth of one hund-
red yards; steer north by west one-(inarter west for tliree-eighths of a mile, pass-
ing one Inuidred yards on the east of Fauntleroy KNuk, which is covered at
three-quarters Hood. If this ro'.ik be covered, its positi<tn is generally marked by
a breaker. It is necessary to keep it close aboard, because there is a sharp bayo-
net rock having only two feet of wat<'r upon it, and two hundred yards to the
eastward. Head up for tho town and anchor in three and a (piarter fathoms. To
enter or leave it at night, as is done by the n»ail and coasting steamers n quires a
perfect local kin)wledge of the dangers and peculiarities of the landmarks. Coast-
ing steanu'rs, in line weather, usually aiu-Uor close inshore to di> liarye freight,
which is received in lighters.

A wharf has been built out from Battery Point, and landing is now easily
effected in good weather. In southeasters the breakers wash o\ er it.

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORXIA.

107

Tliis bay was first surveyed in 1853, ami again in 1859, from which our direc-
tions are in part drawn up, but principally from our examination in 1857.
Tlie following rcpon (185!)) will show clearly the dangerous character of the road-
stead, and the knowleilge required to enter it: "During the progress of the resur-
vey of Crescent City Harbor, we found several new, dangerous rocks; but as they are
not in the ch mnels followed by steamers, and do iu)t interfere with the anchorage
in use, it (h)es not seem necessary to notice them further in advance of the publi-
cation of t'" chart, as eveiy one trading hero knows that vessels drawing over
nine feet should be very cantic/us in venturing out of the beaten track. The rocks
at that place are of a peculiar character, standing isolated like bayonets, with
their points just below the surface, and ready to pier(!e any unlucky craft that
may encounter them. After we finished the survey, and a fair way had been
selected for a sailing line, we discovered a very sharp rock almost directly in the
passage, with its point only three feet from the surface, and deep water all around
it. This is mentioned to show that, although the greatest care was taken in the
survey, the character of the points of rocks is such that it cannot be surprising if
new ones be found for several seasons to come."

In summer there is ilways some swell here, but in winter it rolls in fearfully,
and vessels must choose a position to be ready to run to sea at the ai)proach of a
southeaster.

Comnumication is maintained with San Francisco and other ports by mail
and coasting steamers, which formerly carried as niany passengers and as much
freight for this place as they did to the Colnnd)ia Kiver.

The town lies northwest from the anchorage, immediately on the low shore;
old drift-logs, in some instances, forming the foundation for wooden houses. In
August 1853, there were about one hundred and thirty-five houses of all descrip-
tions. In 18G0, the [)opulation was five hundred and fifty-three, and the number
of houses one hundred and seventy-six.

The lands adjacent are being cultivated; a grist-mill has been built which
turns out seventy-tive bands of dour per day, and a good trail leadh; to the " dig-
gings" en the Klamath and Illinois liivers.

The southwest point of the bay is ckvnted about twenty-five feet and con-
tinues so to the westward. The light-house u erected on tiie rocky islet about
three hundred yards from the point, and connected with it at low tides by a
broken mass of rocks, over Avhich a single foot-bridge is constructed.

Tides. — The (approximate) corrected establishment, or mean interval between
the time of the moon's transit and high water, is lih. i-iin., and the mean rise
and fall of tides, 1.7 feet.

A hydrographic sketch of Crescent City Harbor appeared in the Coast Sur-
vey report for 1851, and a maj) of the harbor ami adjacent coast in 185!). Teben-
kofi' calls this bay San Sebastian.

I ■ 't

108

COAST riLOT OF CALIFOENIA.

CUESOENT CITY LTailT-nOTTSE.

The building consists of a keopei's dwelling of stone, tlie natural color, (gray,)
and one and a half stories high, with a low tower of brick, plastered and white-
washed, rising from the center and surniount<'d l)y an iron lantern, painted red.
It is situated at the southwest part of the roadstead on the seaward txlreniity of
the island point, Avhicli is here about f((rty-five feet above high \vat<'r.

The light is a ./(>«/ irJiitc Ujjht, caned hi/ Jlashcs, of the fourth oruer of Fresnel.
The intervals of Hash is Im. ;50.s'. It illuminates 31."»o of the horizon ; was first
exhibited December 10, I80G, :;!i>l shows from sunset to sunrise. It is eighty feet
above high-sea level, and should be seen in a favorable state of the atmosphere.
From a height of—

10 feet at a distance of 14 miles.

20 feet at a distance of 15A miles.

30 feet at a distance of lOi miles.

The geographical position of the light, as determined by the Coast Survey is :

o ' "

Latitude 41 44 34.2 north.

Longitude 124 11 22 west.

ft. JH. a.
Or, in time 8 10 45.5.

IMagnetic variation, 17° 52' east, July 1851, Avith a yearly increase of 1'.
From Cape Mendocino it bears north by west seventy-nine and a half miles.
The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was on the point on the
land side of the light-house, near a few Indian huts existing in 1853.
Its geographical position is:

Latitude 41 44 44.0 north.

Longitude 124 11 14 west.

ft. m. s.

Or, in time 8 10 44.9.

POINT SAINT GEOKGE.

This point lies two miles west by north from Crescent City light. It is from
flftj to one hundred feet high, with table-land some di.stai'ce back. It is bounded
by hundreds of rocks, some of which rise perpendicularly two hundred feet from
the water. Three or four of the largest present a renuirkably white a])i)earance,
Avhich serves to distinguish this point. The extensive reef in its vicinity may have
led to confusion among the old discoverers, by their confounding it with Cai)o
Orford.

Nine miles southwest one-third west from Cape St. George, Tebenkoff gives
forty fathoms of water, and twelve miles northwest half west from the cape he
gives sixty-five fathoms.

The point may jm.ssibly \ni the Cajie San Sebastian of Vizcaino, who, alter the

m^^

i ;i

separation <
2(),.10(»;{, Avl
in lioiior of
in the small
a ra])c or ])
northwest,
endeavored
to bcliove tl

Vizeain
cape Avliieh 1

Tlie pre
in latitude 4

This na
Point St. Gi
in detail, l»i
the mail an
Tliere aro tc
rocks aro tw(
by north thn
west by nor
two miles t*
has ten fiitl
and southeai
of the pas.sa
hifth. It ha
Avell-marked

The stei
mistaking so

Tills nail
is Crescent C

For Jan
coast line noi
lL'5th degree
annually.

From Pfi
thence west-
Peronse, 178
Survey recon
the .shore bet

COAST PILOT OF C^VLIFORXIA.

109

separation of his vessels, eontimiotl liis explorations northward, and on Jannary
2(),.10();{, Avhen in latitnde 4L'o north, reached a high white blntt', which he named
in lioiior of tlie saint of tliat day. On the day ])recedinjr, Antonio Fhnos, his i)ilot,
in the smaller vessel, sn])posed himself in latitnde 43° north, Avhcre the land formed
a cai)e or ])()int, wiiich he called Cape Blanco, and from that point the land ran
northwest. Near the point he discovered a large and rapid river, which he
eiKh'avorcd to enter, bnt conld not, from the force of the current. AVe are inclimnl
to believe that both names refer to the same cape.

Vizcaino, in January KKKi, gav(! the name Cabo Blanco de San Sebastian to a
cape which he places near latitude 42°,

Tlie present name was given to the cape by Vancouver in 1792. He placed it
in latitude 41° 4GJ' north.

DRAGON ROCKS.

This name is ap])lied to the roclvs and reef extending west-nortlnvcst from
Point St. George for a distance of six miles. The locality has never been surveyed
in detail, but a wide passage exists inside of the reef, an<l is invariably used by
the mail and coasting steamers, when entering or leaving Crescent City Bay.
Tliere are ten or twelve outlying rocks, and many sunken ones. The outermost
rocks are two, about half a mile apart, large, black, and bold. The outer bears Avest
by north three-quarters north from the Crescent City light, and the next inside bears
west by north half north from the light. No others show above water for nearly
two miles towards the light. The passage througli is about a mile in widtli,
has ten fathoms in it, and the general course through is nearly northwest
and southeast, but not straiglit. Among the multitude of rocks on the land side
of the passage are three very large and ])rominent ones about two hundred feet
high. It has been already stated that several of the largest rocky islets have a,
Avell-marked white a]>i>earance, occasioned in part by the dejiosits of sea birds.

The steamsliip Brother Jonathan was recently lost on this reef in a fog by
mistaking some of these islets, and a great many lives lost.

This name Avas first given by Vancouver in 1792. The general name now used
is Crescent City Beef.

For January, 1859, the line of eqmtl maf/uctie variation of 18° east crosses the
coast line north of Point St. George, in 41° 'AV, and in latitude 41° 40' crosses the
125th degree of longitude. This line moves southward about a mile and a half
annually.

rKT.ICAN HAY.

From Point St. f ieorge the coast runs straight for twelve miles north half Avest ;
thence west-northwest for nine miles, forming a deep indentation called by La
Perouse, 1787, Pelican Bay, and by Vancouver, St. George's Bay. On the Coast
Survey reconnaissance of it in 1850 it is named Pelican May. Ab(mttbur miles off
the shore l)etween Dragon J{(»cks and tlie < -lietko IMver, Tebenkott lays (U)wn thirty-

COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA.

fivo and sixty fatlioms, snndy l)ott<)m. For oifjht milos from Point St. Gooi-}vo
tlio shore is low lor some distance back, and fronted by a sand beacli to tlic mouth
of a small stream called Smith's Kivcr. The entrance to this river we looked for
in vain from the deck of the steamer, althonj-h scarcely two miles otV shore, but
Avcro able to form a good estimate as to where it should open by the peculiarities
of the northern bank, which was a low perpendicular bluft".
Its apjtroxinuite fieof;Taphical position is:

o /

T^iditude u .54 north.

Louf-itude 124 11 west.

The "Smith's River" of recent maps and descriptions is a myth. Half way
between Crescent City and the mouth of Smith River there is a small sheet of
water called Lake Talawa. North of this small stream the coast acquiies an ele-
vation of about one or two huiulred feet for a short distance inland, and is bounded
by hiyli mountains.

mtU

I for

hut

ities

way

i>t of
I ole-
mled

COAST OF ori:gon.

Tho etyiuolofiy of the iianio Orcj^ou has not boon satisfactorily i'.\i)laiiu'il. It
is iiisl nit'iitioiH'd l)y.Fuiuithaii Carver in the narrative of his tradin^j; exi)e(Iition to
the head-waters of the Mississijuti, between June I70(i, and October 17(iH, lie did
not penetrate beyond the {)5th dej;ree of west h»nf;itude, and mentions the name
but tlirei! times, in the following;' manner: Tiie "Jiiver Oregon, or tlie liiver of tiie
"NVi'st, that falls into the I'aeitic Ocean at the Straits of Annian ; '' tlie " Orej;-on, or
the ]?iver of the West. " lie states that Jtobert Whitworth, in 177-4, designed to
pursue the same route traversed by himself, " till, havinj;' discovered the source of
the Oregon, or Itiver of tlie "West, on the other side of the summit (»f the lands
that divide the water's which run into the Gulf of ^Mexico from those that fall into
the Taeilic Ocean, he would have sailed down that river to the place where it is
said to empty itself in the Straits of Annian." This is the extent of his infornui-
tion on the subject, and wns derived from Indians and traders.

It will be remembered that ^Martin d'Aguilar reported to have found, in Ifiu.?,
n large river emptying into the Pacitic in latitude 43°, and which was called tho
"Eiverof the West."

The theory that the Pend d'Oreilles tribe inhabited part of the region between
the Columbia lUver and the Kocky Mountains was originally designated Orejou
by the Spaniards, and hence gave the name to the river, is unsatisfactory.

About three miles bj' the shore, to the northward from the deepest part of
Pelican Day, the boundary line of California and Oregon, of IL"^ north latitude,
strikes the coast near a noticeable high pyramidal mound, rising abruptly from the
plateau, which is destitute of timber.

CHET-KO RIVER.

Five nules from the deepest pa't of Pelican Bay, and in latitude 42° C I' north,
longitude 124° 15' \\est, (both approxinuitc',) empties a stream which is from fifty
to sixty yards wide at its mouth, with banks about one hundred feet high, and
bounded half a mile inshore by very high hills. It appears deep .iiul sUiggish,
and in August IHihi, was completely closed at the iiiouth by a heavy grav<'l beach.
The anchorage oft" it is open and exposed from \\est to south, with several reefs
in and around it. No survey or reconnaissance lia^ been made. V^'e found Indian
huts in great jiumbers upon both banks, but most of tiie Indians were engaged
higher uj) the stream in taking salmon. On Tebenkotri chart this stream is called
the Striela or Arrow Kiver.

On the Coast Survey charts of 185.'$ this stream was nnirked Illinois Kiver,
that being the name applied to it by min(>rs prospecting from Crescent City,
whereas the Illinois is the south branch of the Kogue's liiver. Similar errors have

112

COAST riLOT OF OHECJON.

i !

frtM|iii'iitly been niiule on tho coast. Some givo the Iiuliau naino of this strcain,
Chitko.

From Point St. CM'or<;t' to an arched rock called Mack's Arch, ahimt forty feet
lii},di, in latitu(h' 41."^ 11', the conrs«^ is nitrthwest by north twenty-seven miles.
The coast bet ween the Chet-ko and the point within a mile of the ai'cli is hi};h, bold,
compact, and bordered by vast numbers of rocks, with very deep wiitcr close In
shore. Tiie Coast Survey reconnaissance chart has a small anchoia^ic marked in
hititmh' 41i° 17', about iive or six miles north of the arched rock. It is on the
south side of a sli-^htly projectinj,' head; the surveying steanu-r did not anclnu'
here. From the arched rock the sliore runs nearly northwest by north half north
for forty miles to ('ai»e Orford, makinj;' a lonj; {,'entle curve of four miles to the
eastward, and being in general high, abrupt, and rocky.

CAPE SEBASTIAN.

Ti:i- cape is in latitude 42° 18' north, and longitude 124° 25' west, api loxi-
mately. AN'hen seen from a position se\en miles soutUwi'st from the Chetko, the
cape is a ver .' marked ami inominent headland, that so far has r<'mained name-
less. J propose that it l)e nanu'd ('ape Sel»astian. It is six miles nortli-northwest
of ]\lack's Arch, and southeast by .south two-thirds south, twenty-.seven miles from
Port Orford.

nOGUE KIVEII.

"Within the long stretch just referred to is found the entrance of Eogue TMvei-.
in latitude 42° 25' mntli, and longitude 124o 22' west, (both approximate,) having
a loug, low, sandy [)oint on the south aide, and a high, steep hill, with two large
rocks off Its base at the north side. It comes from the interior between high
mountains, and it is next to im])ossible to travel along its course. Just within
the enhance and on the north side were large Indian villages in 18.j3. AVlieu
j>assing it in moderate northwest weather the sea was breaking heavily across the
bar, and this is reported to be generally the case. It has not been examined or
surveyed, and the depth of water on the bar is variously rei)orted from ti>n to
eighteen feet; the former, doubtless, nearer the truth. McArthur reports ten feet
on the bar, but that the channel is too narrow for sailing vessels to turn in. In tho
spring of 1850 the New Yiu'k pilot boat, AV. G. Ilagstatf, entered the riv«'r, and
we believe was attacked by the Indians, deserted, jdundered, and burnt. The
next vessel that entered was the schooner Sam Koberts, in July of the sanu; year,
which got out safely. A\'e km>w of no other vessels ever having made the
attempt.

Near the entrance commence the detached deposits of auriferous sand and
gravel, which are found northward along the coast to the Coquilie Kiver.

The name of the liver was suggested by the <lishonest propensities of the
natives in its vicinity. On the nmps it is called Touhmnis, ami the Too-too-tut-nii
or Klamet. These names, we judge, have arisen from misaiiprehension, because

of this .strcii

ilxmt forty fW't
t.v-Ncvcii miloM.

''"■^I'i^ii, Im.M,
water <'l(»,s(. jn

iifi*' iiiiirkcd ill
It is on the
»1 not aiiclior
itli JiJilf north
1' iiiih's to tiio

I' Clu'tivO, tlic

I'aiiK'il iiiiine-
tli-northwost
'II iiiilfs from

iite,) liiiviii^-
li two liir-'e
'tuccn Iijo-Ii
Jii«t Mitiiin
5.53. A\'Ju.n
*■ iicross the
xiiininotl or
I'oni ten to
Its ten foot
'"• In the
J'iver, iiiid
unit. The
Siiine year,
"liule the

Si" id and

OH of the
foo-tut-iiii
1, because

' :|

COAvST riLOT OF OEEGON.

113

the Indians l>oreabout.s, Atiieu asked a question wliicli tUoy do not understand,
answered too-ta-to6-ta; to6-ta sif>iii{'vinft' nejiation, and rendered more enijtliatic
by repetitit»n. Or the name maybe derived from ^..latis called the Too too tan
village, some distance up the river. That existinj;- (1S,"».'>) on tiie north head of
the mouth of the river is called Tar-siu>ots. TebenUotf has the river Ounde open-
in;^- in latitude 41;° L'J'; but he lias u reef extending- three miles olf sh(»re in
latitude 4i"^ ;!()'. He has the river Tituna emjitying into Indian I>ay or Port
Orford in latitude 44° 45'.5. Several campaigns have been nnuh! against the
Kogne liivei' Indians, and they have been found a warlike and tnmblcsome race;
but the mauner in wImCIi th* y were ti'cated by some of the early settlers Avas well
calculated to rouse them to a war of retaliation.

KOGTJE UIVKU REKF.

The rocky islets composing this reef are not so large as the Dragon IJocks,
and run more nearly parallel Avith the coast line. Tiu> southern group of rocUs
lies west lialf noriii, about four miles from the north head of the entrance to
Ifogne Jfiver, and stretches northward three ]ni!;'s, where a gap occurs between
them and aiu)thei' clustci' lying a mile and a half otf shore. Off this inner gr(»n[»
lie several dangerous sunken rocks, which must be shari>ly watched from aloft
when the sea is not heavy enough to break up»Mi them. As seen from the siaith-
wanl. the inside rock of the onter gronj) shov, s a pci'pendicular face eastward,
and sloping back to the west. The channel through this reef is ])erhaj)s a mile
Avide, but nH)re da'igerons than any other on the coast. No hydrogTaj)liic survey
luis been made ;»f it, and it is in'ver used by the coasting steamers. In ls."i;j the
coast surveying steamer passed thnutgh it.

Abreast of the northern j)art of this reef is a livi'-mile stretch of low sand
')each, backed by high, rngg<'d, wooded hills, Avheu the shore changes to an
abrni>t and precii»it<ais face to Port Orford. ]Maiiy rocks closely border the shoie,
ami liv(^ miles south of Port Orford a high rocky islet lies nearly a mile olf the
base of the hill, about one tlumsand feet high.

Abou<^ eleven miles Avest by south from the uiouth of liogue lllAer La Peiouso
gives a sounding of eighty fathoms on his chart.

roirr orfouu.

This is by far the best summer roadsl.-ad <ui the coast between Los IJcyes
antl the .Strait of ,Iuan de Fnca. Prom the extremity of the southwest point east-
ward to the maMi shore the dista'ice is two miles, and from this line to tho
greatest bend of tln^ shore uortlnvard the distance is one mile. The soundings
Avithin this space range from sixteen fathoms close to Tichenor Kock, foiining the
southwest point of the bay, to three fathoms within t>ne-quarter (»f a mile of the
beach on the n(M'theast side; with live fathoms at th(> base of the rocky points on
the noi'thwcst side towards Tichenor Ilock. One mile olf the shores of the hay the
average ticptii is about fourteen fathoms, regularly decreasing in shore.

- m

1? ■'

114

COAST PILOT OF OlfFXiON.

The point forming the western part of the bay ])rosents a very nij^fted, pre-
eipitons outline, and attains an elevation of tiivee luuuhed and tiity fi-ct. Its
surface is covered with excellent soil and Avitli a si>arse growth of fir. From this
lioint the shore becomes depressed to about sixty feet at the northern or middle
part of the shore of the bay, where the town is located. The hills behind are
covei-ed Avith a thick growtls of fir and cedar.

The anchorage is u.sually made with the eastern end of the town bearing
north, being just open to the east of a high rock on the lieach, in six fathoms
water, hard bottom, having a sharp, high point bearing northwest by west one-
quarter of a mile distant, the beach in front of the town distant a quarter of a
mile, and tliiec n i-ks, just in the throe-lathom line, east by north, distant half a
mile. Steamers anchor a little to the eastward of this position, and closer to the
town, in four fathoms. Coasters from the south in summer beat up (rlose in shore,
stretching inside of the outlying islets to avoid the heavy swell outside. Coming
from the north\v;ird they keep just outside of a high rock one-third of a mile ott"
the western head, and round Tichenor Kock within half a mile. In winter anchor
far enough <mt to be ready to put to sea when a soutlu-aster comes up. During a
protracted gale in Decend)er 1851, a terrible sea rolled in that no vessel could
have ri(hlen out. The old steamer Sea Cull was driven northward, and lost two
weeks in regaining her position, and the mail steamer Columbia hardly heUl her
o«ii for many hours off the Orford Ileef.

The usual landing is between the rock called IJattle Rock, uorth of the
anchorage, and the point of rock clo.se on its west side. A road is cut from hero
up to the town, which consists of but a few houses. Sometimes a landing is nnule
on the rociv^y beach a quarter of a mile westward of JJattle I'ock, in the bight,
where a sUqing grassy blufi comes to the wat(>r; but this landing is over a rocky
bottom. A road is cut up the slope to the site of the military post of Port Orford,
which is iM»w abandoned.

From "Battle Itock" the shore eastAvard is skirted by sand beach foi' one and
three-quarters nule to a rough, rocky point called Coal Point. About midway in
this distance enq)tics a small creek, whose banks are conq)Ose<l of a deposit of
auriferous sand and gravel, the same as found in front of the town abreast of
Battle Rock, and which has yielded as high as $■')(> to .$10 per diem to each miner.
Battle liock wa.s so named, l)ecause the first adventurers nnule a stand against
the Indians upon this rock in June ISol. Coal Point was so named from the
rc^ported existence of coal in this vicinity, but Ave found none after (sareful exami-
nation.

Several attemiits have been made to open a road from this place to the mines,
about sixty or scA'cnty miles eastward, but thus far Avitlnmt success. Several
p.u'ties have gone thnmgli, but could find net <lirect available route (or puck-
animals. Up(tu the opening of such a road it would become a large depot of
supply for the interior. In the neighborhood of I'ort Orf(U'd are found immense
quantities of the largest ami finest Avhite cedar on the coast, and lor some years

COAST PILOT OF OREGON. 115

a saw-]i.i11 has boon in oporation, ■.MYonVm^ a small snpi.ly (br tho San Frui
CISCO market of tins lumber, nnappn.uc-hable in quality by any 0.1 the .Ulantic
coast.

The high mountain about twelve miles east of Port Orford is eallod Pilot
Knob.

The primary astronomieal station of the Coast SurNoy, ostablisho.l here in
I80I, ,s on the top of the ri.lf,n- Just Avest of the town, at a luioht of two hnn.lre.l
mm s,xt>-.two leet above tho sea, and within a t^e^y yards of the western edge of
tiie blutt. Its geogra[»hieal position is:

Latitude

T ., , i2 44 21.7 north.

Longitude I'.i ..^ j7

^-4 Jb 47 west.

Or, in time ''' "^ ^'j

o 1 ( 00.

aboi^l^'"'"' ''""'"'""' ''° "'' '''*' "' ^oy..nh^ 1851, with a yearly increase of
nule dl^nr" '''''"' ^''^''"''' ^"'^' ^'"'' '""''' ^^ '"""'' three-quarters of a

the p!mT'f '' T"-"""""' '''""' ^'"''^ '^ '• ^""* '^^■^^''^ ^"-"' "-'-thof
the Rattle Lock', and withm titty yards of the e.lge of the bluff. Its goo-nMi.hic.d
position is: * ^'-'pnitai

Latitude .''./, "

, ., , 42 44 28.2 north.

Longitude ^,., _

l-'i li.S 13 west.

Or, in time ''■"': "•

8 17 r)2.S

T/W.,v.-The eorreeto.1 establishm.'iit, or mean interval between the time of tho
moons transit and the time of high water, is 11/,,. 2im. The mean rise and
lull ot tides is 5.1 teet, of sjning ti<les, 0.8 l\.ot, ami of neap ti.los, 3.7 IW-t The
mean duration of the Hood is «/,. 19,«., of the ebb, (i/,. 7,n., and of the stand, iif,. 3!),»
Ihe average ditforonce between the corrected establLshmont of the a m n.d p m'
tides of the same day is 1/^. 22;». for high water, and 0/.. 40»,. for low water The'
dillorences Avhen the mooirs dec-lination is greatest are 2/.. 12«*., and ih "8,« res
IH'ctively. The average dillorences in height of those two tides is 1.4 toot tor tlu3
h-Sh waters, and 2.0 feet for the low waters. When the moon's declination is
greatest those differences are 2.3 feet and 3.0 foot, respectively. The avora-o di ffer-
ciice ot the higher high and lower low waters of the same day is 7.1 teet and when
he moon s declinati.m is greatest, 8.2 feet. The. higher high water in the twontv-
our hours occurs about 10/,. 45,«. after the moon's upiKn- transit, (southing,) when
the moon's declination i.v 11, »fi. ..,,,1 ..i.,,..^ i /. ...... ,. , ' , "^'^

south. The lower

of the low watt.'i'
est observed diff

s occurs a

bout seven hours after the higher high water. Tl

crence between two low waters of one d

gioatest difference between the higher high and lower lo
ILOfeet.

le great-

ay was 5.5 toot ; and the
waters of one day was

mB=

116

COAST riLOT OF OREGON.

To fiiul tilt' times of lii<ili and low -waters, iir.st compute the times for Astoria,
and from the numbers tlius obtained suhstract ]/(. Him. for I'ort Orfcu'd.

This bay was called Ewiuft- Harbor in ISoO by ]\[cArthur, but is now known by
110 other name than I'ort Orford, from its proximity to Cape Orford. A sketch of
it was published l»y the Coast Survey Ollice in 1854. On Tebenkoirs chart it is
called Indian I>ay, and tlu^ river Tituna emjjties into it in latitude 42° 4.V.5. He
has the chara(;teristic high rocks to the southward close in shore, with 45 and .'58
fathoms, three miles oil.

From the western extremity of Port Orford, Cape Orford, or IJlancft, bears north-
west half lunth, distant six miles, the slnue line between them curving' eastward
about a mi'e. Immediately north of Tort Orford the shore is composed of a very
broad loose sand beach, backed by a hnig, uniform sand ridge of oiu' hundred feet
height, covered with grass, fern, salial bushes, and a few firs; while behind this the
ground falls and forms lagoons and marshes. This ridge extends nearly to the
mouth of a stream called Elk lliver, thn'e and a half miles from Tichenor Ifock.
This narrow stream, fordable at its mouth at low tides, comes for miles thiough
broad marshes covered with Jir and white cedar, and an almost impenetrable uiuler-
growth. The south side at the nunitli is low, samly, and Hat ; the north side, a
sh)pc rising from the marsh inshore ami terminating' on the beach in a pei'pendicu-
lar blulf, averaging one hundred feet high, covered with timber to its ver^> edge
for a couple of miles, when the timber retreats some distance inland. The l'a(;e of
this blutt' exhibits vast numbers of fossil shells in the sandstone. At its base a sand
beach exists which may be traveled at low water.

At the mouth of Elk lliver, a bottle, nearly buried in the sand, -was picked up
on thelSth of ilay, 18(J0, ^vith a memorandum, stating that it had been thrown from
the steamship Urother tJonathan in latitmle A'2^^ 0(1', longitude l-'4o 50', on the L'.'Jd
of ]Marcli 1800, the wind at the time strong from the south. It had traveled
nearly north about iilty miles.

CAPE ORFORD, OR BLA>TO.

In making this ca]ie from the nortlnvard or southward it ])resents a great simi-
lai'ity to Point Conception, appearing tirstas an island, because the neck connect-
ing it with the main is comparatively low, flat, and destitute of trees, with which
tlie cape is heavily covered to t!ie edge of the clilf. It is, perhaps, over two hundred
feet high, but the trees ui)on it make it appeiir at least ouo hundred feet more.
TJH' sides are very steej), and worn away by the action of the sea, showing a dull
■whitish appearance usually, but blight when the sun is shining u))on them. At th,^
base ar»i many black rocks and ledges stretching' out to form ilie inner ])art of Orford
IJeef. In the bend, southeast of the cape, rises a. large, high, single rock, about
one hundred yards from the beach.

The a]>proximate geographical ])osition of the cajte is:

c /

Latitude Hi 50 north.

Longitude 11'4 .'!0 west.

COAST riLOT OF ORECJOX.

117

Being thus the most western part of the main hind until we reaeh hititudo
47- 50/

From it Cape ]\ren(locino bears south by oast seven-eighths oast, distant one
])undred and forty-live miles ; Cape I3isappointment light, at tlie nortli head of the
entrance to the Columbia, north by west one-third west, distant two hundred and
seven miles; and Tatoosh ishmd light, otf Cape Flattery, north-northwest tlirec
hundred and (iiirty two miles. From tiie line joining IManco and Cape Disappoint-
ment the coast docs not, in any place, leave it nu»re tliau twelve n)iles.

A liglit of the lirst order is required upon this cape, or upon one of the rocky
Islets of the outlying reef.

Upon old Spanisli maps a cape near this latitude has been called Blanco, from
the assertion tliat Antonio Flores discovered and so nanu'd it in 1003, He says
that fiom this cape tlie coast trends northwest, and neaj* it he found a large river,
whicli he tried to enter, but could not on account of tlie strong current runningout.
At that time the magnetic declination must have been about zero, and i)erhaps
seA'oral degrees Avest. Assuming it as zero, the coast thence northward for nearly
one hundred miles trended north by oast half east.

The name Orlord was given by Vancouver in 1702 and placed by hini in lati-
tude i'2° r>'2'. On the western coast tliis name is now almost invariably used.

Fii'teen miles west by north from Cape Orlord, La i'erouse states that he had
soundings in seventy-live fathoms.

ORFORD REEF.

About four miles off the coast, between Port and Cape Orford, lies a group of
rocky islets and sunken rocks.

Theie are seven large high ones within an area of one srpiare mile, with small
ones that are just awash, and others upon which the sea only breaks in very luavy
weather.

The southeastern rock is called the "Fin Rock," and has aper])endicularfaceto
the southwest, with a sloping surface to the northeast. Near it are several low
black rocks. Tlie Fin Bock lies west three-(iuarters north, distant four andathivd
miles from the western point of Port Orfoid, and the general direction of the six
others is north-northwest from Fin Bock. West from Port Orford, and distant fctur
and a half miles, is a small black rock, and near it a smaller one, upon which the
sea breaks only occasionally. West by north half luutli, distant four and three-
quarters miles from L*ort Orford, lies thi^ largest of the seven islets, rising up with
high and nearly pej]»endicnlar sides. On the same course, and a mile and a quarter
further out, is a small rock, and half-way between them a rock awash. This is
the northern limit of the group.

Stretching south-southwest for a mile and a third from Ca])e Orford are numer-
ous rocky islets and suidvcn rocks, with large lieh Is of kelp; but ceasing at that
distance, a passage is left one and half mile wide between them and tli(! northciii
islets of the other grou]». The cimrse through the middle of the ]»assage, (tlearing

118

COAST riLOT OF OKEGON.

the rock rallod Klooqiu-li, oil" tlu' western point of Tort Oifonl, is nortlnvcst by
west, Avitli ten latlioms rocky bottom on the shoiHcst i»art of that line.

Tliis passajje is in constant use by mail and coasting steamers, but the hydro-
graphy of the reef has not yet been executed, andoidy a i)rcliniinary examination
of the position of tin; outer rocks. iVll hough the general trend of the southern
group is iu)rth-uorth\vcst, it is very probable that they are a continuation of the reef
making out from the cape.

\Vhen coming down this coast, in 1787, La Perouse says his latitude at iioon
•was -12° oS' .")(>", and tliat two hours afterwards, in latitude 42° 49' he was abreast
of nine small islands or rocks lying about a league off Cape Blanco, which bore north-
east by east true, fie called them the Xecker Islands; evidently the grouj) form-
ing the Orford I'eef.

About two miles westward of the reef, Tebenkoft" gives a sounding in fortj'-
tliree fathoms.

One mile north of Ca])e Orford empties a small stream, having a great number
of rocks oil' its mouth. In 1851 it Avas usually called 8ikhs liiver, the Chinook "Jar-
gon" name for friend. On some maps we liud a stream near this locality called
Sequalchiu Elver. The village upon the Sikhs is called Te-cheh-quut.

Ten miles north of Cape; Orford La Perouse places a ca])e called Toledo, but no
headland exists between Orford and the south head of the Coquille, although a
small streain called Flora's Creek empties upon the coast about half way between
them. But his descri])tion shows that he did not see the above headland.

From Point Boneta to Cape Orford the extent of shore-line is three hundred and
eighty-eight miles, Boneta to ]\Iendocino being two luuidred and twenty three miles.

GENEKiili FEATURES.

From Cape ^Mendocino the hills upon the seaboard range oni two thousand to
three thousand feet high, running parallel with the coast at a distance of from
three to live miles, receding .somewhat at the Eel liiver Valley and Point St. George,
and at other points coming abruptly to the ocean. The Avhole face of the country
is covered Avith dense forests, and oilers almost insurmountable obstacles to the
opening of roads intended to strike the trail leading along the valleys of the Sacra-
mento and Wallamut.

NortliAvard of Cape Orford the appearancte and nature of the coast assumes a
marked change. Long reaches of Ioav, Avhite sand beach occur, with sand dunes,
broken by bold I'ocky headlands, and backed by high irregular ridges of mountains.
On the sea-tace and southern sides of many of these prominent points no tind)er
grows, and they present a bright, lively green of fern, grass, and bushes. The
general altitude of the mountains appears the same as to the southAvard.

COQUILLE RIVER.

From Cai)e Orford to the month of the Coquille, in latitude 43° 07', the coast
runs exactly north for seventeen miles, with a slight curve of a mile and a half

COAST PILOT or 01{Et;0N.

119

castwiird, and a slidit distance north of Orford it con.siHta of a low sand bcacb,
iiamediati'ly behind which are loii}? sliallow la{?oons receiving' tlic water from the
mountains, bnt havinj? no visible ontk't to the sea, Ah)n<jf tliis shore tlie sound-
inj,'s ran;;e from seven to lifteen fathoms at a distance of a mile.

The south point of the entranco to this river is a hij^h blutl" headhiud, whilst
the north point is a long, low, narrow spit of sand, overlapping, as it were, the
southern head, so that the channel runs parallel with and close under it, (1851.)
A short distance oil' it lie several rocks, but not of sullicient size to lessen the
western swell wiiich breaks continually across the bar.

Jn the winter of 18i»l the boats of the pro]»ellor Sea (J nil cfVt'cted a landing
near the rocks, but it was attended with danger; subsequently boats were (tarried
by land from J*oit Orl'ord. The widest part of the mouth is less than two hun-
dred yards, after which the river spreads out into a lai{i;e .sheet of shallow water,
about two miles long by three-quarters of a mile broad, and bf)unded by low
ground. Into the northeast part of this lagoon enters the river, which has been
followed a distance of about thirty miles in a northeasterly direction, and liaxing
a depth throughout of not less than lifteen feet, and an average width of forty
yards. It drains a very fertile region, densely covered with many vaiicdies of
wood. Numerous Indian encampments were found along its banks from the
mouth, aiul (piite extensive fish weirs were discovered and destroyed. About
fifteen miles from its mouth there is a portage of one and a half miles to ivoos
liivei'.

The liydrogra])hi(! reconnaissance of this river in 1S5J), by the Coast Survey,
shows only three feet of water on the bar, and it is reported inaccessible for ves-
sels of ordinary draught. The north point is a long stretch of dreary sand dunes,
and lias a single bold rock at its southern extremity. The channel makes out
straight from the scmthern head, ami north of the rocks (185!).)

The approximate geographical position of its entrance is:

Latitude 43 07 north.

Longitude 124 24 west.

Tides. — The (appi-oximate) corrected establishment is 11/i. 30»t., and the mean
rise and tall of tides 5.0 feet.

A reconnaissance of the entrance and part of the river was published bj' the
Coast Survey in 1801.

When oft' the entrance in 1854 we saw about a dozen houses which had l)een
built by the miners engaged in washing the auriferous santland gravel at the back
of the beach. In ajjproaching this coast we encountered a very heavy swell, with
the wat«'r changing to a dark brown color, and after passing through it tacked oft'
shore, hove to, and sounded near its outer limit, but found no bottom with eiglity-
Ibur fathoms of line.

The alleged depredations of the Indians in this section led to a canii)aign
against them in 1851,

; ii

120

COAST riLOT OF OKE(K)y.

Honic recent maps Imvo a river horo cuUctl Hie Soqiiils, and one within a
siioit (listancf calk-*! the Cotaniyts, bnt no such stream exists in this vicinity.

CAl'K (iniUiOKV.

]j('t\voen tlie C<)(iuille Kiver and tiiis lieadhmd we find aiiollier low sand
beach lor ten miles, to the soutlieiii ]>urt of (Ireyoiy, which rises np very juecipi-
tonsly; the hill attaininj;' i»erliaps two thousand feet elevation two miles baciv,
runs in a straight line northward for three or four miles, and b(inn<h'd by many
rocks, slopes to the northward to a very narrow sharp i)erp«'iulicuiar point, about
forty feet high, and i>eculiarly cut and worn by the action »)f the sea. it forms in
reality an island, covered with trees upon its southern i)art, and marked by the
light-house on its northern extremity, beyond whi<'h rocks and rocky islets extend
one-(pnuter of a mile. Thence it takes a sharp turn to t\w east-uortheast for two
miles to Koos Head, forming the south point of the entrance to Koos I'.ay. The
cape, as seen from the southward, shows a (uuiple of rocks a short distance from
its Avestern ]>oint. Along the low shore soundings in ten fathoms are found one
mile off. OHictMs of the Hudson JJay Com])any assert that soiae of theii' vessels
anchoring close lunlcr tiie northwest face of the cape have ridth'U out heavy south-
east gales; and the light-house steamer Shubrick has anchored close under the
head in live fathoms -water, in a southea- gale, putting to sea when the wind
shifted to the sontiiwest.

This is very impoitant, because no other place between Drake's and Nee-ali
Days (latitude 38^ 00' to ITo 24') affords such protection. If a southeaster should
haid to the southwest, and then to the northwest, as they usually do, a vessel
anchored in this position must be prepared to put to sea at once.

From the northwest point of the mainland of the cape the light-house island
and rocks extend north 41° west nearly half a mile, Avith seven fathoms within a
((uarter of a mile of their extremity. The next point of rocks to tiie eastward of
Light-house Reef is Yokam I'oint, nearly three-quarters of a mile east by north
three-quarters north from the extremity of the iornu'r, and the shore of the nuiin-
land between them falls back with a low rocky face, bordered with a broad sand
beach at low Avater. Three-cpuirters of a mile east by north three-fiuarters north
from Yokam Point is Tunnel Point, Avith a blufl', Avooded shore, bordered by sand
beach at high and Ioav AA-aters between them. Within an eighth of a mile of
Yokam Point soundings are laid down in se\'eu fathoms, and also toAvards Light-
house L'oint, but a detailed hydrograi)hi(! exanunation has not been nuule to tin;
shores. It would be important to sound out this space, and deternune whether it
is really available as a roadstead of refuge against southeast gales. It is directly
open to the nortliAAest.

Four miles broad olT the southei'n part of the cape a depth of twenty-flA'o
fathoms is laid down; and on a course Avest by south three-eighths south from the
light a line of soundings is laid doAvn for ten and a half miles, at Avhich distance
.seAcnty-five fathoms are giA'en, Avith sixty fathoms Avithin four miles of the light.

ir?

no witliin a
vicinity.

or low sand
■»'iy luccipi-
niiies back,
L'd by many
|M»inf, about

It I'oiins iu
I'kcd by tlio
sk'ts extend
^a.st lor two

I5ay. Tho
stance from

lotind one
heir vessels
eavy sontli-
c under tiui
n the wind

uul Xee-ah
ster should
lo, a A'essel

•use island
IS within a
astward of
b by north
the inain-
I'oad sand
ters north
'd by sand
a mile of
•<ls Liglit-
de to the
vJiether it
s directly

venty-riv(3

from tlie

I distance

he light.

1: ::i

1..

iKI

■iiiiwwwp—i ■

COAST PILOT ()1M)1{|:(1C)N. 121

Boyoiul fl... outer soun.li.,;.' no bottoiawiis fuun.I will. „,„. lu.i,.lr..a iui.l .w.-ntv
fntho.Msor lin... Tl.irr.v-ci«i.t inilc. imrtl. r.so w.-st fn.n, (iivorv li-H.t is (In.
H..utl.,.n,tailoftlH. fI<M.at..I5M>.k, lu.vinw' .s.MnMlin.s ln>ni lo.ivtiin... h, H.-ht.v-
tI.m.(.„l.on..s,,m.r variable Imtto.n. This s1m„1 nn.s tl.iitv ..lilcs nortlnv ,■/,,,'.•-
i'llH w.tl. the. .-(.ast, and havinj;- ,vMy, «(ncj.ty, an.l sixty fathoins betwron it an.l
the shore.

LIOHT-IIOr.SK ON ('An; OKKdOKV.
This stnu-tnr.. is on the narrow island north w.-st old,,, extren.itv of the n.ain-
h.n.lot rap«"(in.;.-ory,an.l eonsists of an o.h,«„Mal wronj;ht-iron tower and hin-
'•■'"' I"""-''"' ^^•'■'t'^' ^^i^'' tl'^' «1^'"<' <"• <1- lantern ,,ainte,l red. As seen Inm.
seaward, the tower is pr,,ieet..d a«ainst the dark spruee Iblia^je, and is r..adi!v r,...-
o^^m/ed in .lay-tin.e. The keeper's dw,.Ilin;; is a oneand-a-halt^storv woo,len
l-nhbn;;'. painted whit.., with ^^reen shutters to the windows, and is si'tuated on
he s,nitlu.rn extremity of the island, about three hundred and tiftv yards Iron.
the towe... ' '

The linht was first exhibited Xov(.nd,er 1, ISOti, ,,,..1 shows Iron, s.u.set to
8nnr.se ajiml white Uyht, rarial hyJluHh,;. The ,bu-ation of the steady exl.ibiti...i
IS one n,.,.ute and tifty-onc seeon.ls; of the eelipse thn-e s,.eonds; of the flash
thre<. se..on,ls; ami of the s,.eond ,.elipse three seconds. It is of the fourth <u,h.r
of Fres.u.l, and the height of the foeal ,.lane is seyenty-the feet above the uiaiu
level of the sea. In elear weather it should be seen from a height of-

10 feet at a distance of 1,'{.(} miles.

20 feet at a distance of 15.1 miles.

30 feet at a distance of IG.;* n.iles.

From Cape Orford it Ix'ars north thirty miles.

The ffcos-raphical position of the light as determined by the United States
Coast Survey is :

Latitude °' "

T ., , 43 20 30 north.

^""^"^ 1212211west.

^^'-^-- 8;728.7

The computed magnetic xaiiation was I8048' east iu 1803, with a yearly
increase of V. j'-'"^.)

Cape Giegory was named by Captai.. Cook, who placed it by bearings in lati-
ude loO m', and is described by him as ibilows: -This point is rendered renn.rka-
We by the land of it rising imnie.liately fro..i the sea t., a tolerable height, and
that on each side of it is yery low." Vancouver phn-ed it in -13o 23'.

It is sometimes called by the recent appellation of Arago.

KOOS BAY.

Nearly two miles east-northeast of the northern extren.itv of Cape Cxregory is
the Wide and well-marked entrance to Koos Bay. The south point, named Koos
10*

rnmm

■muh HuamuittnmmmMnMa

lUii^iliiUiL

y^^'^^^ff^^'^iBVnW/ft

/-fe /,f.,:/z,

122 COAhiT PILOT OF 0E1:G0X.

Head, is liijih iintl bold, Ixniig the base of the hills foniiinf>- the capo, -.vhilst the
north point is low aiul ^iaiidy, with shittiiif^ sand dunes that reaeh one hundred
Iwt in height. In 1S(!1 a narrow ehannel cut ueioss the north point, forniinj-' ii
tolerably large islaixl, whieh was washed away before the elose of the season.
Such ehanges lire eonstiintly taUi ly plaee. and invohe elianges in tlie bar and eliaii-
lU'l, The points lie nearly north and south of each other, and about three-quar-
ters of a mile ajvart. In iSOl the bai' was northwest I'y westhalf west one mile from
Koos Head : northeast by north sevcn-ei^litiis north one and thrce-<|uarters miles
from Cajie (ire;4'ory, and its width berween the twelve-feet lines on the iiortii and
south sides was only one hundred and <ifty yards, with a maximum dei)th of tiiir-
teen feet. Thence tlic channel, increasing,' in width ran strai;;ht to tin- northeast
tanfjjcnt of tlu^ head, with ten fathoms of water abreast of that point. In isr>3 and
ISol a depth < f oidy nine to nine and a half feet could be found on tiie liar. Dur-
iu<^ the workinj;' season <»f lS(il the Itar moved to tiie northward, thus indicating
great cininges in this as in all other river bars on the coast. In October l.Sdli the
iSurveying brig Fauntleroy could not enter. In October lS(;r> tin- cliannel had
eomj»letely changed, and ran directly from the north point of the head north by
west a (piarter west one and a quarter miles, Avith a very narrow mouth between the
breakers having four fathoms there, but only seven feet in the shoalest jtart of
the cininnel tivc eighths wf a mile from the head. Tin' entrance to the channel liad
thus moved (iveeighths of a mile to the north-northeast. Vessels enter and leave
on the rtood tide because the l)ar is snumther; Aviththe ebb there is a heavy break,
unless the sea be remarkably smooth. The currents run Acry strongly, as might
be supposeti, from the extent of the bay and the size cf the channel.

We have seen the sea breaking cotni)letely across the entrance in moderate
nortliAvest weather, and know that the nniil steamer has tried to enter, but upon
^ieeing tiie danger m ouhl not take the risk. 1 n 18(!1 the ])arty examining it could get
but one day's work on the bar during scA'eral m<n)ths.

In the spring of 18GS the brig Admiral reported waiting in the bay tliirty-ono
(hiy's for a chau{!e to got out over the bar.

TraHii! is drawn hither by the mining of ligiule, whicjli is carried to the San
Fraui'isco nnirket. It lias i)een found untit tor steamship consumptio;i, but isased
for small stationary engines and domestic purnoses. The geoh)gy of the country
does not give juomise of coal. A. tngboot v. as emjd )yed at the entraiuH^ to tow
vessels over the bar. The saw uills on the bay turn out about lifticn thousand
feet of bimber daily, Aviijch is shiinted to H\n Francisco.

The geographical ])osition of the extremity of Koos ITead, as 'U erniin d by
the United States i.oast Survey, is:

Lafitinl" . -i;? L!l (L'.i) north.

Longitude l'2i 1i» IS .} west.

Or, in time ,*. S 17 1!».2

COAST PILOT OF OIJEGON.

123

a i>y

M'tll.

rest.

Tides. — The corrcctod establislitnoiit oi' mofin interval lietween the time of the
moon's tran.sit nd (li<' time of hi;;li Wijter is ll/(. 'Jdin, The mean rise and fall of
tides is ~)A feet, of sprinj;' tides 0.8 feet, and of neap tides 3.7 feet. The mean du-
ration of tlie Hood is Gil. litw., of the ebb (i/(. 07w., and of the stand Oh. :V.))n.

Tlie two tides of tlie same day are generally unequal, in i)roportii)u to the
moon's deelination. The times and heights of high and low waters ean bt- obtained
ap])roximately from the following table and exiilanation.

iroou'.s vippiT nioiidirin p:iBsago.

Mood's lower nicridiau paHsnge.

"Moon's tit'cliiiation.

Hii^li water.

Low water. HikIi water. Low water.

Interval.

U«iglit.

Interval, j Height.

Interval.

Height, j Interval. Height.

G roatcst north

H.M

12 28

13 IT
13 43

Feet.
,5. 8
5.3
4.1

H.M. Feet.
20 08 I —0.
1!) 53 , 0. 4
18 48 2.

II. M.

13 43
13 17
12 26

Feet. '. II. M. I Feet.
4. 1 j 18 48 2.
5. 3 1 19 !i3 0. 4

Grontcst Huutb.

5. ! 20 08 1 —0.

The interval is to be added to the time of the moon's meridian i>as.sage to
obtain the time of higli or low water. The time of the moon's U])i)er meridian
passagv' is given in the Nautical Almanac; and the time of its lower meridian jtas-
sage is the middle between the times of two swcessive njiper passages. The
lieiglits are given in feet and tenths, and show the ri.se above the level of the aver-
age of tlie lowest low waters, to whitdi the .soundings on the cliart are reduced.

Spring tides. — At the full and change of the moon the high water.s will be 0.1
foot higher than the above, and the low waters 0.5 foot lower.

Xeaj) tides. — At the moon's first and last quarters the liigh waters will be 0.4
foot lower, and the low waters will not fall as low by (>.() foot.

Koos Bay is very irregular in outline, but its general shajte is somewhat like
the letter U, with the convexity to the north. One .small branch, called the .South
Slue, stretches a mile or two southward directly behind Koos Head, but it li^is only
two or three feet of water in it. North of the eutraiiee the bay proper begins, and
throughout its lengtli there is a channel with a good depth of water. Abreast of
the north point of the eiitiance the width of the bay is less than at any other point,
being only six hundred yards wide at low water, but the dept h of water reaches eleven
faliioms. Jn this narrow part of the channel lies a sunken rock called Fearless IJock,.
nearly in the mid<lle. It is best to pas.s to the westward of it, keeping the west side
of the chaimel. The rock lies east from the terminatiou of the north poiut of en-
traneo, and west from Fossil Foint. From the mouth of the South Slue the bay
runs nt)rth by east quarter ea.st six miles; then easl-uortheast nearly two miles to
North IJend Point; then southwest between three and four miles. Tlu^ average
width to the north bend is three-(iuarters of a mile. Th(> southwest arm has a
Avidtli increasing from one to two miles, but the whole eastern part is bare at low
water. Koos i{i\cr empties into the .southeast jtart of the bay and Coal Jiank Sine
into the southwest part. At tlu' north bend two large slues come iu from tlie north,

124

COAST PILOT OF OREGON.

and a .slutit triiiiisular one i'lom the sotith. Koos River is said to aflbrd j)assaso for
boats lor twenty miles IVoni its luoiith, wliere a small slue that empties into the
Co([uille River is so near as to leave a porta;;!' of only a mile and a lialf between
the two -waters, and about litteen miles from tlie numth of the ('<><iuille.

Empire City is a ])lace of about twenty iiouses, on the east side of the bay;
three miles from the entrance a Avharf from the upi»er mill extends into sixteen
I'eet water. Tlie ("oast Survey has published a chart of the l»ay and approaches.

Exceptin,n' the ])cninsula, which tornis tlic western shore of the bay north of
the entrance, the entire country is an immense forest of various kiiuls of spruce
and pine. Little land for cultivation is found v!*iiout cleaiiny, and even on Koo.s
]{iver the bottom lands, which allord excelh'Ut ii. i ve to be cleared of the thick
{>iowth of laurel, maple, and myrtle. The coal n.u. ., a beyoiid the head of the
bay, on Coal Bank ^lue.

The Uiiiue Koos is that approaehinff nearest the Indian pronunciation of the
■word. On some majis we lind a small stream called Cahoos, em])tyin.u' hist south
of Caite (ireyory. The Coast Survey chart of the bay was published in 18<n.

The word Koos sig-nides, in the Tootoo-tan language, a lake, lagoon, or land-
locked bay. Dutlot de ]\rofras very amusinj^ly transhites it R. des Vaches.

In .lanuaiy ISu!) the line of cr/j/ri/ viaf/nvHc raridtion of liP east crosses the
coast-line in latitude ili° ;}!)', and in latitude 4;>o 2!t' crosses the 12r)th dej^ree of
longitude. This line moves annmdly soutlnvard about one and a half miles.

UMPQUAn RIVER.

North of Koos Bay to the Ump(iuah River is another straight, hnv sand
beach, with sand dunes, backed by a lii.nh ]id,<;e of hills densely timbered. The
shore runs nearly north. ])resentiny' a very white appearance when tlu' sun shines
uiutn it, and having' from ten to iifteen fathoms of water one mile otf the beach.
Q'iie southern ])oint of the entrance to the river is a markcil spur of the nH>untains
from the southeast, and is bordered by sand diuu's. The north side of the en-
trance is a louft' ran^-e of white shitting' sand hills, runniii;;' with the coast for two
miles, and suddenly chan^in.!;' to hi^'h, rocky hills covered with wood. The river
is tin- largest stream entering tlie Pacitie between the Sacramento and Columbia
Rivers. It is lifty-one miles north one-third west from Cai)e Orford, ami twentyono
miles north of Cape Cre^ory. The h)wer reach of the river is long and narrow,
running nearly iM)rtli for six miles; bordered on the south side by a rocky, woixled
shore; on the north, for two miles, by loose sand hills, changing after the iirst
mile to sand sparsely coxcred with coarse grass, bushes, and fii', and in four miles
to steej), high, rocky Itanks eoNcred with large trees. An ininiense lliit, nctstly
bare at low water, stretches south from the north point to within lliice hundred
yardsof the south side of the entrance, through which narrow space runs the chan-
nel, having (isr>,'i) a bar with only thirteen feet u])on it, ami less than a hundred
yards wide. L'rom the bar the ](oint of blulV.Just inside the entrance, bears north-
east by east, and is distant one and a qiuirter miles. About J.sr»l ^n• l.S."»2 two range

COAST PILOT OF OliEClON.

125

iiiiirlvs were itlnci'd on the soiitli sliorc for ruii'iiiif;' in by, and tlioy are froqnpntly
rcftTrcd to as data 1»y Avliicli to tract' tlio cliaiiincs of the bar; bnt the captain who
erected them lias assured us that tiie bar was not on tiieir ranj;e, but to tlie south-
ward of It.

lllOVS I'dU C1JU.SSINU TlIK HAII.

Altlioujili the directions of one year will not answer for another, it is desira-
ble to keep on record siu-h conditions as have been observed, to study the law of
changes of the channels. In January 18.")S it was anmtunced that the bar had
been marked by l)uoys. Two third class nun-buoys, ])aint<'(l white, with white and
black periiendicular stripes, were placed in line with the li,!4ht-house, which boro
from them east by north (piarter north. The inner buoy was just within the bar,
and in three and a half fathoms at mean low water, and could be passed on either
hand, but only close to it. The outer buoy was Just outside the bar, in ten fath-
oms at tile same staj;e of the tide, and could also be ])assed on either hand. Keep-
ing the two buoys in ran^e with the li,i;ht house that then existed, a (h'pth of four-
teen feet was carried over the bar at mean low water.

oo\ ('

directions show that the bar of the river had moved al

)out lour

hundred yards to the norrhwar<l of its position, as determined by the hydroyraplMC!
survey of 18j.'5, and had, moreover, dee[)eiied. In linht weather it can be readMy
determiiu'd by the breakers on each side, but with a heavy swell the si,, is ter-
ritic. In October IS.jli the Coa.st Survey steamer Active lay off the bar two days
tryiufr to ji'et in, but fomnl it imiu'actieable. Several steamers Imve thum]>ed heav-
ily on the bar, one nearly carryin.ii' .iway her stern-jjost. Se\('ral ves.sels have
been lost at its entrance, and within a very recent period no pilots helonyed to the
river, because the trade was too small to warrant the neces.si;ry expenses.

Dnrinji' the early part of Xoveniher 1S."».*> the bar at the euti'ance to the rnip-
(pndi chaniit'd jiicatly, and the depth of water iqion it was so much decreased
that the steamsliip Colundiia, which thumjicd o\cr it, conld not leave the river for
.several weeks. I'lion soundin.n' at the entrance it was found that Ihe channel
across the hai had mo\cd about three (piartiM-; of a mih' northward of its former
position, with a depMi o'" rhrec and a half fathoms water.

i:^

iMri.aAii ravKR uonT-nousE.

The tower of the li^iht-lionse, ninety -two feet in hei;nht, was erected in l,S,"i7,
on the south side of the entrance, close to the beach, v.hich was of shifting
sand. On the Sth of February bSOI. durin;; a heavy freshet in the river, the
base of Ihe tower was nndermiiied and the stiucture fell. No building' has re-
placed it, l>ut the liiiht at <'apc <ri'e;,;ory is sulliciently near to be used for mark-
iii}"' th(> i)osition of liie ii\er entiaiice. The lhi;4lish Admiralty Chart No. L'Kll,
witii corrections to March JSti,"*, still has this linht house markeil as existin;;.

126

COAST PILOT OF OREGON.

TUB UIVEU INSIDE TITS ENTRANCE.

After crossinfi; the bar the channel runs close to tlie south shore, and increases
in depth from three and a half fathoms to thirteen ott" the point of blulf. Abreast
of the meeting of the sand beach and bluft' on the south side lies a rod:, visible
at extreme low tide, upon the tliree-fathom line. It is not laid down on any chart,
nor has its iiosition been accurately determined. It has deep water around it.
From the point of blutl" vessels steer across the river, to strike the east side of the
north point about one-third of a mile from its extremity, then liaid across east-
northeast to the other shore, close along which the channel runs. This course
takes them clear of a flat and rocks in mid-river, which bear east-northeast from
the south end of the north point, and north tive-eightlis of a mile from the ])oint
of blutf on the south side. The small indentation of the shore-line on the right,
after making the first stretch from the point of blulf, is called Winchester Bay.
It has no water, being but an extensive mud fiat. Three miles inside the light-
house, the river continues half a mile wide, then expands to a mih;, and is filled
with }iumerous extensive sand and mud fiats. Five miles from the light-house it
bends sharply to the eastward.

A iireliminary chart of the enti'ance to Umpcpiah Eiver was issued from the
Coast Survey ottlce in 1854.

The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was on the west side
of the I'ivcr, on the edge of tht^ first grove of spruce, and one mile from the end of
the north point. Its geographical position is :

Latitude 43 41 4r,.3 north.

Longitude 124 09 57.0 west.

/(. HI. S.

Or, in time 8 10 39.8.

This river is said to drain an extrenu'ly fertile region, abounding in prairie
hind well adapted to agriculture and grazing. Koss Cox mentions a pine tree dis-
covered in the Un)p(iuah Valley nu'asuring two hundred and sixteen feet to its low-
est branches, and being fifty-seven feet in circumference.

Tebenkotf has the entrance and Indian villa cv at the mouth in latitude 4.1 HO'.

The Indian iiaiiic for the river below the rapids is Kah-la-wat-set, and lo the
upper part they ajjjtly the name Umpt'quah.

The first \esscl we know of entering it was the schooner SamllobcJts, August
4, 1850, after coming out of Ifoguc Kiver.

This river is sometimes supposed to be the rivur dis«^>vered by Flores in 1*;03,
and afterwards referred to as the " lliver of the West." Carver in hfej. iMVrHitive
refers three times to the " Oregon, or lli\er o*' til*' West."

From the Unip(iuah the coast runs in a nMnarkably striiightllMMMIkbyw'est
half Avest to the south i)oiiit of the entrance to ihe Colnmbi* BHVf'T. in no case
varying more than threes miles eastward of tlie line Joining tli«<N«' two places. In
latitude 43'^ 58^', two and a half iiiileH ai>ove lii^ positiou tor the Um4>«^uali eu

ii'i

ii.f

kii

k^r^n

1^^:^% i^^

i t

!:•

COAST riLOT OF OK KG ON.

127

triiiice, Teboiikoff liiis n small iiuU'iitation cuHimI SiilinaTi Bay, but no indication of
this is found on tne Coast Survey reconnaissance. In latitude tt^OSA' he has a
lar^e stream entering, about five miles south of Pcrpetua, and called the Zastikan
liiver.

Sixty-six miles northwest by north from Cape Orford is the southern end of a
bank extendiu};' parallel with the coast for thirty miles, and about the same dis-
tance from it. The least depth yet discovered upon it is forty-three fathoms, and
the nature of the bottom very variabh", there bein<;f blue mud, coarse blue sand,
coral, i)ebbles, gravel, mud, aiul shells. Coasting- vessels have often reporttvl pass-
ing over localities having a heavy swell upon them, and one fre(|UcMtly so reported
near the rmp«|uah led to the examination which discovered this bank. AVhen
lleceta was upon this coast, and in this vicinity, he said: '>()n Sunday 1 found
great ditterences of depth; at seven leagues I got bottom at eighty fathoms; and
nearer the coast I sometimes found no bottom." Should a thorough examination
of his discoveries here satisfactorily show that he did really cross this or any yet
undiscovered adjacent bank, it wi>uld be a tribute to his explorations on tiiis coast
to apply his name to it.

IIKC'ETA HEAD.

-1i

The seaward face of this headland is about one and a half or two miles in
extent, and the iH)rthern extremity in latitude 41° OfH. ai)proximately. It is <|nite
iH)ticeable when coming from the southward as being the northern limit of a long-
extent of l(»w sand dunes, backed by low, wooded hills, stretching from near the
Umpcpiah liiver. Northward of it the shore is moderately high, but brnUeii l)y
sandy patches of sloping bluff. The summit of the head is about eight iuuidrcd
feet above the sea, and covered with wood, but the seaward face is green to the
edge of thedift". Two small <'asca(h's are seen near the south«'rn part, and a small
sandy cove near ihe northern. To the westward of this ca[te lies the lleecta
baidc.

CAl'E rEUl'ETUA.

After leaving the Umpquah two or three miles, a bohl rocky c(»ast, with high
steep hills covered with tind»er, runs straight for aitout eight miles, changing' to
low san<ly beach with sand duiu's, backed by a high ridge of hills. This continues
for lilteen miles, when the hills stretch out to the shore and crowd upon it for thir-
teen miles, to end abruptly in steei» blulfs forming Capi' l'i'ri»etua, which is thirty-
nine miles north by west half west from Cmpqindi light. The face of the cape
is nearly five miles long, with very slight projection from the straight trend of the
shore. It is very high, ainl has a regular altlutugh stee[> descent to the shore,
bringing the trees to its very edge.

The approximate elevation of this wooded liea<lland is eight hundred feet. It
lies about south IIP east, twenty-four miles from Cape I<\>ulweathei', ai.'d is in lati-
tude l-to ly/j \yitii (In. coast line running almost straight to the latter point. The

I
I

128

COAST PILOT OF OIJEOON.

south faooot'tlie Ciipc .strotcln'saboiit a mile to tlic eastward, and tlic Tace issliarj),
bold, and rocky. One mile nortli oi' it is tiic tMitrancc to the small strciin naniccl
the Ya-chats, on the north hank of wiiich is the Indian aj^cncy of Alscya.

]\I()unt Va-chats, cstiniatcil at two thonsand feet elevation, lies noith .'57° oast,
live (tr six miles distant from Cape Peri)otua.

Two and a half miles north of L'erpetua the shore ehanfj^es from a hold, roeky
outline to a sand beach, borch-red With tindter almost to the water's ed<;e.

At eij-lit and a half miles northward of the cape is the entrance to the Alseya
Eiver, with a l>road sandy i)oint forming' the lutrthhead. The liver exi)ands nearly
to the size of the Yacpiina, but the depth of wat^'r ui)on the bar is unknown.
For four miles northward of this river to the Seal Koeks the shore is marked by
sand dunes; thence to the mouth of the Yaquina IJiver the shore is low and
heavily wooded.

YAQUIXA ElVlilJ.

As seen from the southwest the entrance to this snmll river exhibits a Inuii,
bold, sandy bbift'on the north side, with a clump of spruce orpine ou the top, near
the southern extremity. Stretchinjj- three-eij;hths of a mile south by Avest from
this blulf is a broken line of low, black rocks. The south point of the eutraiu'e is
lowi'r than the north, not bluH' but sandy, and heavily tindiered to within a short
distance of the beach. AVhen the entrance has the above bearing, the low extrem-
ity of the south point is seen inside, in line with the end of the low bhiek reef. A
small house ou the inner side of the. south point Just opens out from the north line
of the timber; and the line of breakers across the entrance stretches from the
rocks to the southern shore. The topoj^raphy of the country behind the shore
exhibits hillocks covered with jtine, and rising to elevations of about three hun-
dred feet to the base of the Coast uu)untains, about four or live miles from the
ocean, and heavily timbered to their sununits.

The nortli head is the extremity of a peninsula about one mile long and half a
mile wide; its sea-shore stretches northward for about three and a half miles to the
■[loint designated Cai»e Foulweather on the Coast Survey maps. The shore is a
long line of blufl;' composed of hard sand ami soft rock, from one to two hundred
feet ill lieight.

The bar of this river lies at the south point of the reef, making out three-
eighths of a mile south from the north head, and is about half a mile broad oft" the
south point. It is quite narrow, and never free from breakers except at extreme
high water, when it ai)pears about half a mile wide. The depth of water upon it
is not over nine and a half feet at low water. A vessel drawing eigiit and a half
feet has been taken over al dead low water, just touching her keel. The Avater ou
the bar is rejierted smoothest in -lune, -Inly, and August. The, current is very
strong in the channel Ix'tween the iu-ads, being estimated at five or six knots
when strongest; a whale-boat cannot pull agauist it. The summer winds are
favorable {'o§ both entering and leaving. It is reported that southeast gales do

.^r^ ;

m .

COAST PILOT OF OlIKGON. 12i)

not I'haiific Ihc bar, and tlii.s appears probable on aeeomit ol' the roeky nature of
tlie north side.

Tlie fjoof^rapliical position of this river lias not been iic( nratcly determined; it
is approximately placed by the United States Coast Sin xcy in —

T.atitmh' 44 :!().2 north.

Lon;L;itiide l-'l 04 west.

/(. lit.
Or, in 1 iiiie -S l(i

About three-iinarters of a mile I'rom the siiuie, and one-quarter of a mile
outside the bar, a very danyerous reef of rocks extends in a north and soutli
tlirection, havinj;' many small, narrow, and (hiiij;ei'oiis ehannels across it. This
reef is one and tiiree-eiyhths mile lonj;, and lies between the bearing of outer
ran;;'!' beacon nortiieast by east, and the same Iteacoii beariii};' east l»y simtli
three-ipiaiters south. It is composed of a yreat number of rocks, with from six to
eij-htceii feet mion them at low water, and separated from eai-Ii otlier by channels
of various widths from twenty yards to thrce-ciuartcrs of a mile. Inside of the reef
is a channel riinniii;^' nearly north and south one-cpiaiter of a mile wide, ami
bounded on the eastern or inshore side by the breakers of Vatpiiiia l>ay.

This reef, which forms such a dani^erous obstruction to the approaches to this
river and bay, serves, however, as a natural breakwatei' aj^ainst the westerly seas,
which would otherwise render this bar impassable except at hi^h water, and in tlio
smoothest weather. As it is, in lieavy weather it is not [lossiblc to cross the bar.
There is a very (hin};'erous sunken rock with twelve feet at mean low water, which
lies to the rij;ht of the entrance, and a little over a mile oft" the shore. From this
rock the western I'aiige beacon bears northeast by north half north, and is dis-
tant two miles. The beacon on the north head bears north by east half east,
and is distant two and one-eighth miles. These bearings will enable vessels to
avoid the shoal.

Trade was drawn hither by the oyster beds in the river. These liave been
exhausted, and a small tratUe is maintained in lumber. There is cue saw-mill
there, cutting- eight to ten thou.sand feet per daj'.

Inside the bar, Xewi)ort is located on the east side of the north head ; ahd
the river has a general course northeast by east three-cpiartcrs east, for twelve
miles to Flk C-ity, the commencement of the military road to the Willamette Val-
ley. Ibit, by the windings of the river, the distance is about twenty-three miles.
In that distance it makes a course like the letter S repeated. For two and one
(pia •l<'r 1.1 -es the north shore of the river runs about northeast by east three-iiuar-
ters i!ast, w'ltli a width of one mile, tilled Avith tlats; thence it makes a large bend
to til' soiiilieast for tliiee and a half miles; and, sweeping north again, touches
the line between Xewport and Elk City about seven and a half miles from the
former, where it receives a small stream from the north, and is only live or six
huiulred yards wide. Theu bending agaiu for two aud a half miles to the south,
17*

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

11=
11.25

■ii|2£ 125

I; IHli^S

■huu

U 11.6

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

33 WEST M/«:i4 £ »f £r

WEBSTER, N.Y. .4S<iO

(716) S73-4S03

^x. '^\

■ !

130

COAST riLOT OF OREGON.

f I

lit

ns I

ami tiirniii^j rnpidly north, it crossos the iibove connecting line ^ith a width of
two Inindred and lit'ty yards at ten niiU's from Xewimrt. It cuntinnes nortli of this
line for a mile, then sweejts south two miles beyond the above line, and returns
northward to Elk City, the head of tide-water, to which a depth of nine feet can
be carried. In the first };reat bend two small islets are found where the river
expands. Its banks are cov;>red with a thick {irowth of spruce, pine, and alder.
A small steand)oat plies occasionally between Elk City and New[)ort.

Ab(»ut three miles mnth of the entrance is the headland known as Yaquina
I'oint, whose grassy heads, when two or three miles off Vaquina Itiver, show
against the bolder and marked head of Cape Foulweather. It has a high, bold
]»oint, extending into the sea about a ha.lf »«• three-cpjarters of a mile from the
beach southward. It has on it two conical hills, between three and four hundred
feet high, and exactly similar in shape. There is no trace of its ever having been
W(»oded. It is in latitude 14° 40' north, and longitude lli4° 04' west, and will serve
as a good mark fm' making the mouth of the Yaquina.

A beacon has been built upon the north head, as a guide in nniking the
entrance, aiul two beacons are jdaced on the south point, west by south half
south, and east by north half north of each other, as a range for crossing the
bar. They arc about four hundred yards apart, and form an excellent channel
mark.

SAILING UIUKCTIONH.

This bar and e"itriv>ce was surv»'yed by the Coast Survey in 1S(;S. The sail-
ing directions given below are compiled from the results of that examination.

Comincf from the Houtli ward, vessels slnudd lirst make Cape Terpetua, twenty-
two and a half miles to the southward of the mouth of the Yacpiiua, and, if possi-
ble, keep the slnu'c in view up to the entrance. Cape I'erpetua may be recognized
by its steep blutVs, thickly wooded, Avhich jut out boldly into the water, and by the
view given of it in this work.

After sighting Cape I'erpetua steer north a little westerly for the Yaquina.
AVheu up with tlu' entrance, bring the beacon on the north head to bear nortli-
nortlu'ast, and steer for it out* aiul one-eighth miles, until the outer or western range
b«-acon bears northeast, when you must steer north one-third west for a little over
half a mile, until jou bring the two beacons in range. Cross the liar on this range,
steering east by north half north, and contiinu; this ccmrse until you bring the
bea<'on on the north head to bear north by west half west, when steer north
by east three-quarters east, and rouiul the point ai a distance of about one hun-
dred yards, until abreast of the town of Newport, when you may ancho" in from
four to five fathoms.

Of these courses, the first (ncu'th-northeast) carries you about four Inuu^-cd
yards to the northward of the detached rock nu'iitittncd above, ami ycm w ill have
nothing less than tive fathoms. The second (north one-third west) jjasscs om;-
eighth of a mile to the eastward of the outer reef, and has nothing less than four

COAST I'lLOT OF 01{I<:(J0N.

131

a width of
until of this
and ictuiiis
ine feet (•an
ro tlie river
, ami alder.

as Yaquina
liver, show
i Uiiih, bold
e from tho
iir hundred
aviiij^' been
.1 will servo

lakins' the
south half
'ossinjj tho
it ehanuel

The sail-
ition.

II, twenty-
l, if i)ossi-
eeofjiiized
lid by tho

Yaquina.
•ar iiortii-
ern ruiiHo
ittle over
lisraiifi'o,
ln'iny the
<'!• north
Diie huii-
!• iu from

hull(^•ed

ill have

ises one-

lan four

fathom.s. In crossiii}-' the bar your shoalesfc sounding will be nine feet, and will
cai'y you eloser lo tlu^ south breakers than Ut the mu'tli. In one [dace the ranj^o
passes within si.vty yards of the ed)j;e of the breakers. But, as the (h-pth is iini-
forni here, yon may, sliould you j-et too close to the south shoals, edge a little over
to llie northward withtmt fear of lindin*;- less water.

Com iiKj from the norfkicard ves.sels should sight Cape Foulweather, run in to
M'ithin one and a half mile of it, and steer southeast by south quarter south
until (hey are in lifteen fathom.s, and have the beaeon on the north head bearing
east quarter south. Now steer for the beaeon and eonlinue y(»ur eonrse for a
little over one and a quarter mile until the extreme western point of Cape Foul-
weather bears uorth-uorthwest, when haul round south-southeast, which course
yon must continue for tive-eighths of a mile, until you bring the two beacons on
the south head in range, when you must cross the bar on the range and [iroceed
as before directed.

Of these cour.ses, the first (ea.st quarter south for the north beacon) leads
across the northwestern end of the outer reef, through a bnjak in its line, and
between tw(» rocks with eleven and tweivo feet on them at low tide. The coiirso
gives both rocks a berth of at least one hiuidred and fifty yards, and you will have
nothing less than four fathoms at low water. The second course (.south-sonth<'ast)
carries you uj* the channel between the outer reef and the bar, in nothing less
than four fathom.s, and brings you to the bar. You cross the bar in the same
water and on the same range as in entering from the .soutliward.

The Coast Survey chart of Yaquina Bay entrance shows the depth of water
on the bar and ajqiroaches at mean low water, the soundings being reduced to
the mean of the lowest low waters.

Tulcs. — The two tides of the same day are generally unecpial iu i>roportion to
the moon's declination. The time and height can be obtained approximately from
the following table:

Ml Kill

'.** U]iiH'i' tnrl'iiUaii |ia»Hii;;i'.

Jlmin'n liiwri- 111

■ridiaii |ui.'<«aai'.

llnnn'.-* (IrcliniUitin.

HiKh M

•ill IT.

Low wntiT.

Uisli VFator.

low wiilor.

Interval.

H.lKlrt.

Interval.

Ui'iK'lit.

liitorvnl.

UoiKtil.

f......

li. 1

7.H
7.7

Iiitorval.

Ui'ittht.

n. -If.

11 17
11 ,5!l
H 35

r.et.

7.7
7.H
(i. I

n.it.

18 (K»
Itl 00
17 51

Feet.
-0,4
0. H
3.0

n. U.

\-i ','5
11 .-lU
U 17

ir. .If.

17 51
If 0!t

it< oa

Feet.
3,

Zero

II. ,i

Groiitoat hoiiIIi

—0.4

The interval is to be added to the time of the moon's meridian passage to give
the time of high or low water. The time of the mooirs upper meridian jiassage
is given in the Almanac, and the time of its lower meridian passage is tho middle
between two successive ujiper p'ssages. The heights are given in feet and
tenths, and show the rise above the level of tlii! average of the lowest low waters,
to which level the soundings on the chart are given.

132

COAflT PILOT OF OREGON.

Sprhuf thlcH. — x\t tho full and I'liaii^e of the moon the hi{j;h waters will be 1.0
foot hi<ilH'r than the above, and the low waters O.G foot lower.

Xcap tidi's. — At the moon's first and last (luarters the hi^Ii waters will be 1.0
foot lower, and the low waters will not fall as low by 0.0 foot.

YACil'IXA POIXT.

From Perpetua to this eape the s(»nndin}^s ranjije from seven to twelve
fathoms abon. a mile from shore. The eai»e is in latitude 41^ 40' north and lonjji-
tutU' ll'l'^ 04' west, (l>oth approximate,) and forms a hi;jh, bold headhiinl, half a
mile in width, jnttinjf out about half a mile from tlu^ low beaeh, and backed by
liigh mountains. It has sev«'ial small r<»eks on its southwest face, with one nteky
islet a mile fntm it. To the ntnthward of the cape are three rocky islets standinj^
a short distance from the low beach, and readily distinj,'uislied by beinfj; pntjectted
as'ainsl it. In Aujjust J.S.'i;}, the astronomical jtarty of the ('oast Survey was
very desirous (»f etfectin*,' a landinjif on or near this cape, but the sea was ntlling
in too heavily to warrant the attempt. There was no appearance of a landin<;
beinj;; at all feasible, ex<*e|>t in remarkably «iuiet weather. These opinions have
since been verilied by the surveyin;^ parties of the (.!oast Survey, who have since
hiiuled on this part of the coast, and comi»leted its examination.

In moderate northwest winds anchoratje may be had under the two }?™'^''^y
lieads of Y^aquina Point in four fathoms, sandy bottom, about three hundred and
fifty yards southwai'd of the rcxiks, with the islet one-third of a mile inside, tho
cape bearinji west by north two thirds north. Tliis jjosition will be about three
hundred yards from the line of three fathoms water to the eastward, and nearly
half a mile from thi' beach. The soundinj^s do not indicate any hidden danf>ers.
IJoat lamUng nmy be sometimes had on the south face of the rocks, but never on
the beach.

The two grassy hills of Yaipiina Point are three hundred and sixty and four
hundred and seven feet hij^h, with wooded mountains of one thousand feet eleva-
tion a mile or two eastward of them. These j^rass hills form a peculiar feature for
uuikiug this headland.

CAPE FOULWTjIATHER.

Nearly four miles northward of Y'afpiina Poii't commences the long, bold face
of this headland. From Yaquina Point tlu> tour miles of shore is bordered with
low, yvillow brok(Mi <!litfs, covc^'ed with standing burnt timber. A low, tiat, black
rock lies about half a mile off shore, and nearly three miles north of tlu^ jxMut,
while a large oue, the same distance off shore, I'cs just soutii of the southern limit
of the cnpe.

The whole face of the cape is about five and a half miles in extent, north-
northwest and soutli southeast, and nuirked by six or seven sloping grassy heads,
reaching from the sea-clilfs to the heavy timber whic^h crowns them, while tind)er

tons will be 1.0
era will be 1.0

on to tweh-e
itli and l()M<>i-
Kllaiid, half ji
i<l Ijackcd by
itii one rocky
ifcts .staiidiiijif
iuff pnjjccted
►Survey was
' was rolliiiff
<»f a laiidiii<f
)iiiioiis have
' liave since

two jyrassy
iiiidred and
i inside, tlio
itbout tlireo
and nearly
in danf-ers.
t never (»u

y and four
feet elcvii-
featiu-e for

> luild fiujc
lered with
rtat, blaek
the i)oint,
liern limit

r^ -M

t^*'*!!

i;.**

iVd

•it 3

lit, north-
's.v heads,
le tinilu'r

,( :l . '

ff:

■SI

COAST PILOT OF ORE^JON.

1133

filln the <;iilclu'.s between them. Tlie eleviitioii of the head iipitear.s to be about
eight hiiiulretl IW't.

Tlie westeriiiiiost point ol'tlie eai)e is about seven uiiU's noithwai'd of Yacjuina
Point, and is marked by a l()w {frass-eovered tabh> projecting Just to tlu' north-
ward. North of tiiis tabh', and beinnd a bhicli ludnt of tlu' same height, stretch-
ing southward, is an opening to a small eov.', with yellow elitf and sand b«'ach
within, upon which no surf was seen. It se«'med probable that a boat landing
could be safely elfectcd there iu ordinary northwest winds. This black i»oiut is
nnirked by a dense cluster of woods.

The northern extremity of the caite is ab(mt nine and a half miles from
Yariuina Point; thence northward the shore is comi»aratively low, and bonh-red
by a sand beach.

This cape was uanu'd by Cook on the day he ma(h' the coast, March 0, 177S.
At noon h«' was in latitude 44° .'$.'5', and the hind exteu(U'd from n«»rtheast half
mirth to siMith(>ast by south, about eight leagues distant. In this situation he had
scventy-tlircc fathoms over a muddy bottom, and niuety fathoius a league further
off shore. The lan<l he describes <»f moderate height, diversitied by hills and val-
leys, and ]uiucii»ally covered with wood. No striking object prcs«'nted itself,
except a high hill with a thit suruiuit, which bore east from him at noon. At the.
noi'tht rn extreme the land fornu'd a point, which he named Cajie Foulweather,
from the exceeding liad weather he nu't with so(»n after. The cxjtressiou "nortli-
eni extrenu'" has led some geographers to jtlace the eap(! as high as latitudt;
4oA°, but h(^ Jndged the Fcudweather he named to be in 44° 50'. Leing hero
driven olf the coast by contiinu'd l»ad weather, he had no oi»portuuity to verily his
position, and did not sight the land again until in latitude 47° 0.7, thus passing by
the entrance to the Cobuubia. Vancouver jihu'cs it in latitude 44° 41('. JJoth
of these determinations evich'utly refer to the northern part of tlu' high land,
seven miles north of the head called Cape Foulweather on the Coast Survey
charts.

If we plot Cook's beariiiga we find tliat in latitude 44° :V.V, hmgitude 124° 23',
tlu'iy cut the northern part of the highland of Caju' Foidweather in latitude 44° 52'
twenty-three miles distant; and the southern part of ('ape Peipetua in latitude
44° 10' twenty-two miles distant; while the low shore directly east is distant tbur-
teeu miles, and bacrked by high hills. Seven miles outside of the position where he
got seventy-three fathoms, the Coast Survey lay ilown mi bott«mi at one humlred
fathoms. Tebenkotf gives seventy-tliree fathoms, sandy bottom, eight miles from
shore iu latitude 44° ;J2', hut the bearings of Foulweather and Perpetua place this
sounding only live miles oft' shore.

Kchifi liiver. — Soon after ])assing Foulweather the shoro becomes abrupt ami
nmderately high, with an increased de|)th of water iiumediately olf it. Four miles
south of the Nekas, which is in latitude 44° 50', it changes to h»w saml duues
stretching into a narrow point, forming the south point of the stream, while the

134

COAST PILOT OF OllEUON.

iiortli point is a low l»]ull'. The ciitriiiico is very narrow and shoal, tlu' nortli point
is marked by the sontlu-rn cxtrcniity oC a low, yt-llow bliill', wliicli runs iiortliward
tlirt'o or Tour miles to the ;;rassy hilloeks south of Cascade iload. Inside, the river
is reported to spread out into a bay of about a mile in extent, and to reeeivc tho
waters of a stream draining,' a vaUey (•(•minj,' from the eastward The name is that
used on the Coast Survey 'harts of ls.")(> antl 1853. Prtjvious maps have a small
stream emptyinj;' near this, called tho Cowes lliver. J>o ^lofras calls it tho
Yaeoun.

In latitude 45° 2' Tebenkolf jilaccs the mouth of tho rivor Yaeoun; while in
latituth' 45° ;U', on the north side of La .Mesa, he has the river Nikas.

From the Nekas t«) Caju' Lookout the distance is twenty-four miles, and
course north by west half west, with a shore-line broken by several small streams,
anionj:;st which are the Xechesne (reconnaissance l.S."».'}) in latitude 4."P (L", with rocks
in the, entrance; the X4'stu;;jiah (reconnaissance 185;}) ju latitude 4.1^ (M»', (lalled
Yaquinna in reconnaissance of l.S."»(», and having- a larj;;o rock otf its mouth; the
Nawufit^ah (recttnnaissance IS."!.'}) in latitude t.'jO 14', and on the south side of
whose entrance is a sin;;le rocky islet, hereafter referred to.

I)e .Alofras has Cape Lucuat in this latitude, and a small stream. River Kaouai,
south of it.

CASCADE HEAD.

In latitude 4.j°();^, longitude 124° 02', (both approximate,) ajagged headland,
with a sea-face of about one mile in extent, shows prominently when a vessel is close
in shore. The s(»uth face, overlooking a cove, is without trees and shows very
green. The top of the ridge which attains an elevation of about six or seven hun-
dred feet, is covered with spruce trees; also the ocean front except where it is
very steep and rocky, and at the single g«!ntle slope near the northern extremity,
at th(^ foot of which a large cavern is seen. About midway along the face of the
cajte, and halfway up, is an exposure of red ro(!k showing plainly when the sun is
shining upon it. About two-thirds of the distance from the southern extremity of
the cape a sharp valley makes <»ut directly u[)on the sea, and a cascade from a
height of forty or fifty feet tails ui)on thi^ rocky shore. Four humlred yards north-
ward of this a smaller stream of water leai)s from the rocks, but it is soon shut in.
These pec-uliarities have caused us to nanu> it Cascade Head. When ai>in'oached
from the north, with the southern extremity of the cape bearing south by east,
two rocks api)ear just touching the south point. The outer one is comparatively
low and broad, with two arches through it; the inner arch is the larger, and
thnnigh it is seen the beach beyond.

As seen from the southward this cape is particularly uoticeal)le by having
two or three great sjmice trees standing alone and above the surface of the second
higher seaward slope, at an elevation of ju'rhaps (iv<' hundred feet.

A small indentation of the slnn-e nmkes in a few hundred yards southward (»f
the head, fnmi which stretch out three large b'ack low rocks, api>arently alfording

', the north itoiut
I' niiiH iioitliwanl
inside, (hcrivrr
kI to r('(;('ivo tlio
riie iiiiiiic is thiit
M*"* liavc a small
fiii.s calls it tho

'iKJOmi; wliik' in
kas.

Coiir iiiilos. and
1 sinail sticjiiiis,
^ <»-", with roclis
450 (Mj', called
its nudith; the
' south side of

, IviveiKaoiiai,

;ftt!(I hoadlaiul,
vessel is close
id shows very
or seven lum-
pt where it is
sni extremity,
lie face of the
eu the sun is
I extremity of
<cade from a
yards north-
soon shut in.
I iij)j)roached
nth by east,
'iiipiuatively
larger, and

> by having

f the second

"ithward of
ly a (fording

COAST riLOT OF OHKdOX.

m.-)

l>rot«'ction for a boat laixliii^; in ordinary noitliwrst watlicr. Tlie widtli nl tliis
<'ov«' \vf estimated at about Haifa mile, and tbe <lepth (lie same. At flie head of
it tbere is tlie openin;,' of a small valley, tliroiifih wiiieli comes u stream with a
shanty near its banU. This may be tin' Nechesne l{iv«'r of the ('oa.-t Survey
reconnaissance chart. The south side of tlie cove is formed by the L-rass lu-ad of

ibtMit th

hundred feet

ith

a rnl^e, aoont three or lour hiuiureil teet maU, running; southward and torniin^
the si ore for two or tiiree miles, and decreasiu};' in elevation tt» only thirty or forty
feet above the ocean. It is without timber, and, as seen from tbe sea, is beauti-
fidly };roen and rolling;. South of this, a<;ain, for four er live miles the immediate
shore is low and samly with siyns of a lajj;oon or marsh inside; perhaps the waters
of the Xekas.

At the north of Cascade Head the shore retreats somewhat and u steep sided,
timbered valley ojtens upon the sandy beach, -.here the timbers of a wreck wen;
distinctly visii)le as we i»assed within a mile of them in .Inly l.S(i7. The valley
ap])ears to run southeastward between hi^li hills, i oin the mouth of the valley
northward there are undulaliny hillocks jtleasantly ;ireen from summit to beach,
which continue to the oi)enin<; of a stream which, by the run of the steamer,
should be about nine miles north of the south part of Cascade Head. The «»uter
and northern bank of this stream is sandy, increasin<;' to sand dunes for some
miles. Tlie outermost point of the sand beach has a hijih rock otf it. The eastern
or left bank of this stream has hi>;h hiUocks covereil with spruce, and behind
them api)eared to be a valley stretching far to the southeast with a hiyh timl)ered
ridge llankinj;- its eastern side.

About twelve miles from the s(uith part of Cascade Head is a hif>li rocky
islet ()f r< fiular shape, nan)ed the Haystack. It appears t(» be nearly half a mile olf
the point, and jxtssibly has a passage around it. When abreast of it, a large slit,
half the height of the rock from the sea, shows on the north side, as if an irregular
slab of rock were lying against it. Tiu' measured height of the Haystack is three
hundred and seven feet, and it is approximately otf the i)osition assigned to
the Nawuggah Iviver on the Coast Survey chart, in latitude 4.''P W. Tebeidvolf
puts it in latitud*' -iip lU', with a stream, called the Kautie, emptying four mih^s
north of it. The Haystack is marked on the Coast Suivcy chart. Half a mih'
northward and eastward of it is a low cavern-worn yellowish dill' of saiidslune,
with its top covered with grass, and the inshore slope with timber. A ridge of
drifting sand lies inside this hillock, which is about one hundred ami lifty feet
high. About half or three-(iuaiters of a mile north of this dilf, calle<l Haystack
I'oint, a very small stream of water is seen cutting through the sand beach at low

water.

OAPE LOOKOTTT.

The soundings from Foulweather to this cai)e show from thirteen to thirty-one
fathoms of water at a distance of a mile or a mile and a half from the shore,
increasing from eighteen fathoms, north of latitude 150 iu)rth.

i:m

COAST PILOT OF OlIKdON.

Til is en po is Hitnafcd in liititiidt' l."»o liO', loii;fitii(l(' llil°, holli !i])|>n)\iiiiat<>.
It pnii«>fts liiiira iiiilf siiarplv into the sea, an*l tlint- apitfarn sntliricnt pinti-t-tiou
under tlif sontli side lor boat iandin;; in nrdinar,\ noitlnvcst weal her, and p()ssii)ly
•space Inr a small steamer to anelior close in. As seen from tlie soiitlnvanl the top
of tluM-ape is toleralily Hat and re;;nlai, and at tin; hijjliest part wejudp' it to attain
an elevation of nearly three thousand feet. The face directly toward the ocean is
not more than a qnarti r of a nule wide, abont live hundred feet hi^h, rocky and
perjiendicidar; above that elevation the cape rises rapi«lly and is coveicd with
spruce, except the s(»uthern slope, which is dcstitut<' of trees, but j;reen, with her
baf-'e abi>ve the jwrpcndicular rocky blnlf, whicti is marked by small «'avcrns. On
the tu-ean face is a very hn^e deei» cavern. No rocks lie otV this i-ape, but one
appears very close inshore about a mile to the northward of it. As seen from the
north it is arclu-d. About eif^Iit nules to the southward is thv' hnjic sin;ile Hay-
stack Uock »)IV the Nawn^j^ali Kiver, three hundred and seven feet hij;h, and
standiu};' well out from the low sand beach bchiiul it.

Five miles broad olY Cape Lookout, TebenkotV }>ives one soniidiiij;' in (illy
fatluuns over sandy bott(»m; and thirteen miles ott' the cai)e ho notes the current
runnin}; north half east. The Coast Survey clnrt .yives one hundred and thirty
fathoms over muddy bottom thirty-two iiuks west by north one-quarter north from
Cape Lookout.

The nanu' Looktuit is that adopter! on the Coast Survey cliaits of l.S."t(> and
18515, ami is intended to ai)ply to the cape mentioned ami fully described in
July 1778, by ^leares, whose descrijition has been corroborated by Vancouver, and
Davidson's examinations of 18,~»7 and 18(57.

For January bS,")!*, the line of ecpial mafiuetic variation of 20° oast crosses tho
coastline in latitude i'fi 'JIV, ami in latitu(h' i'P l:V crosses the ll.*.jth de{j;Tee of
lonj;itutle. This line annually un»ves about one niilo soiitlnviird.

CAVE :mi:auiw, ou la mksa.

Two or three miles after passinjif Cape Look(tut the land falls to a low sand
beach. Behind the beach is a loufjf lagoon, called the Xat-a-hats, cominj; from the
southeastward, strctchiuf'' northward parallel to the ocean beach, and oiu'uinj;-
under the south lu'ad of the well marked point named Ca])C .Aleares. This cape is
the ternunation of a tindu'red spur or ridj^e ruuuinj^- from the southeastward,
l)resentin}; an abrujit front to the ocean for about two nules, and formiuj'- the
southwestern ' oundary to Tillamook Hay. The face of the cape is hi>;h, broken
and bluff, and increases in «'levation as it retreats from the shore. It is covered
with spruce. The northern end of the cai)e shows a thin biij;ht stratum of yellow
earth on top of the brown rocky shore, and about two hiuidred and fifty feet above
the water. We estimated the elevation of Cai)e .Mea res about one thousand two
hiuulrcd feet above the ocean. A)»[)roached from the southward tour lar<;t> brown
rocks show oft' the cape, and two of them are marked by arches tluouj,di them.

COAST PILOT OF' Oin'C.ON.

.) i

losses tlio

The rocks arc ;ilMiiit one liiiiMlrcd and lil'tN Icfl lii;;li, cxn'pi ilir (iiiliriiiost. u liii li
is ntiiipariitivily Muall. The aiclus llinnmli lliicr iil' this ;;riiii|i air iiiil\ snii iVuni
])ai'tifiilai' tlircrlioiis. Tlic iiiiirr arch is \ i>.ii)ic \'\t>\i\ the sdmiIiw an! u licii dn^c in
shnic; the outer one I'lonisonth hall' east; ami ■• .Mcares Aich" iVoin liic iioitli
\\aitl. Immit rocks are laid down olV the southwest lace on the Coast Sarxcv
reconnaissance of isritt. an<l oiu' on tlie north. Three lar.nc rocks and one
Kinall one are lai<l down olV the sontliwesi lace in the oriuiinil slieets ol the
reconnaissaiM'c of IS.V!, the most (jistant beinu one niih- from shore, w it li se\ era!
small ones lielwccn lin'm ami the shore, ami two oi' three others off the northwest
face.

In ITTo. Ileceta i>lacei| i,a Mesa, the Taldi'. in latitude |,'i ' L'S'—a l!at lopped
liiuiintain, seen at a ^i-eal distam'c.

In .lulv I7SS, .Meaies. in the I'clice, after i>assiin:- Capi i Jcon from the north-
ward, savs: ••The distant sontherlv headland wecallcii (ape i .lokoul. This cape
is \crv hi.uh and hliitV, and ternMiiates alnupllv in the sea. Al alioni the distance
of two miles from it llu-re rose three lar;;f rocks, wh'- aie \ trv reai.irkaltle for
the f;reat resem'tlance they Itear each olhci'. The middle oi,'- lias an archway,
l»erlorated, as ii were, in its <'enlre, tirouuh wiiieh we ;<lainl> di>covercd the
distiMi'^ si'a. They more particulai'Iy attractc(l our notice as wc had not oliser\cd
hetwcen Kin.i;' (icoryc's sound and this place any rocks so coii-picnoiisly situated
near the land; their <listam-e from each other nM.uhl he one ipiarlcr of a iiiilc and
we {i'ave them the iianu' of the 'Three IWothers.' Ily eii;lit in the e\cnin;; we wen;
Avithin three or four lea.nues of Cape Lookout, which we Jinlm'd to lie in laiitude
■lo3 ;{(1' north, loiijiitmU- IL'.V^ od' «'ast."

In IT!*!', Vanc(»uver described it as a small i»rojectin,i; point, yet icmarkalile
for the four rocks whieli lie off it, one of which is perforated as described by Mcares.
IK' places it in latitude irp .{L".

This cape is very fre(pieidly, but crroiiootisly, stated to be the ••Clarke's Point
of View," as described by Clarke in the winter of ISd.Vd. — (See remarks upon Tilla-
mook ileatl.)

In tlio Coast Survey reeoniiaissanee of IS,"),'! the iH)rthciii part of this cape is
placed ill latitiido LP 30', lon;;'itude IL'.'P 08', ami slrctchiiij;' southward two miles
to tbe cluster of rocks above described.

"We applied the name to this cape in IS.')?.

TlLLAMOOIv HAY,

The eiitraiu'eof this bay is about four miles north of Cape Mcares. and in
latitude trp ,'it', lon>;itu(h' llI.P ."iT', both approxinmte. l''roni <'ape Mcares the
lami falls to a straijiht, low, narrow lidp- of sami dunes niiinin.L;' northwest by west,
and covered with spruce lor three inilos; then with j;rassaml bushes for another luilo
to the entrance to Tillamook Bay. The hillocks of this peninsula ai>pear to bo
18»

i:lll

138 COAST PILOT OF OKKCJON.

only forty or fifty feet liijih. T1h> north side of tlu' (Mstrance to this h;iy rises
Bliarpiy to woo(h>(l hills, twelvi^ hsindn'tl Wot hijjh. .Inst iiisidr tho cntninco, and
on tlic sonth fact' of tlic liills, is a hriyht ;;ivon spnr ih'stitnt*' of tinilu'r, from the
lower iiart of tho hills to the \vat«'r's vil'^v. This spnr, named (Ireen Hill, is a
l)romint'nt foatarein r('co};iiizin};thi' cnlrance and in crossiii';' the bar. The hij;hest
part of this hill that is destitnto of trees is about four hundred and twenty-ouo
feet.

Ui)on the Coast Survey chart there is laid down a siuf^le rock four miles south-
ward of the entrance, and threc-tpiarters «)f a mile oif the beach. Alumt one and
a half miles north of the bar, by estimation, is a double-headed rock, connected with
the beach at low water, with no rocky ground near. TIh'so rocks are pay, al)ont
civility feet high, and seen projected ajiainst the brigiit sand beach from which the
wood coninienees to cover the hills. The southern one has an arch through it, as
seen from the south.

The entrance to Tillamook Hay is six hundred yards wide, but the channel
between the twelse feet curves is only one hundred and thirty-live yards wide.
The narrowest part, with a depth of from four to eij;ht fathoms, is close to the
foot of the Green Hill, and the breakers always show the south side (tf the channel.
Tlie two points of the entrance are north one-quarter west and south one-quarter
east of each other.

The bar in April 18(»7 lay scmthwest by west half west one and a third mile
from the foot of (Ireen Hill, and threi'-(]uartcrs of a mile southwest by south half
south from the nearest jtart of the north head. Tlie channel was narrow but quite
straight, and a depth of fifteen feet could be carried across the bar at low Avater.
Outside the bar the depth increased rapidly to five fathoms in an eighth of a mile,
and one mile outside the bar the depth was nineteen fathoms. The directions for
ent«'ring were to bring the highest part of Green Hill to bear northeast by east,
and run for it over the bar. After crossing the bar, gradually haul fi)r the
hnver part of the hill. When its extremity bears north nt)rth west stCv >r
the eastern slnu'c of the south point, running close to it in tweidy-six feet water,
with a hard, fine sand bar, with only four feet upon it two hiuidred yards from
the shore.

The geographical position of the Coast Survey station at the base of Green
Hill was determined a|»i)roximately, and is in —

o /

Latitude l."* 32.8 north.

Longitude iL'.'i 57.!) west.

h. m. s.
Or, in tnne 8 IT) r»2.

The computed magnetic variation for January 18ti8, was 20° -10' east, and the
increase about 1' yearly.

The United States Const Survey published in 1807 a chart of this bay and
entrance.

COAST PILOT OF OREGON.

130

lis l)iiy ri,so3
iitniiico, aiul
»or, fntm the
Ml Hill, i.s a
Tlio liioliost

I twouty-oiio

miles south-

lont one and

inecte«l with

fji'.iy, about

II whieli the
rough it, as

the channel
yards wide,
close to the
the channel,
one-quarter

a third mile
y south half
i\v but (juito

low water,
h of a mile,
rections for
1st by east,
lul for the
t stCv >r

feet water,
yards from

ie of Grecu

i north

► Avest.

«.

yj.

^t, and the

is bay

and

TIDKS AT TILLA;>rOOK BAY.

Tlie two titles of the same day are jicnerally une(iual in iirojtortion to the
moon's declination. The times and heij>hts can be obtained ai>i>roximateIy from
the following table:

Mixim's niipir iiuridiaii pn8s!i;;('.

SIociii's Iinvor iiioiidlaii pnasaijo.

l^rodu'H i1(M-Iin:itioli.

lliflli walcT.

Luw watcv.

Hi-li waliT.

Low nator.

IiiUTvnl.

noiKht.

Iiitorval.

ir. J/.

IS 1.-.
IS 40

17 TiS

1
Hiislit. Iiitorval. lloijilit.

Iiitorval. 1 Ili'iyht.

(■rcatosl iiorlli

/Olll

11. Jf.

11 i:i
i-j :io

Feet.
7.3
7.0
(1. 2

Feet.

_0..i

o.;i

2.0

I[. M.

12 II

12 :!(i

11 13

Feet.
t!.2
7.0
7.3

//. Jf. j Feet.

17 ."iS j 2.
IS 40 ] 11.3

I'j II

18 -l.'i i — 0. ti

The interval is to be added to the time of the moon's meridian i)assajie to give
the time of high or low water. The time of the moon's upper meridian ]»as.sa.ge is
given in the Almanac, and the time of its lower meridian pa.ssage is the middle
lietween two succe.s.sive upper pas.sages. The heights are given in feet and teiitli.s,
and .show the rise above the level of the average of the lowest low waters, to which
level the soundings on the chart are given.

Spriiifi fiih'.s, — At the full and change of the moon the high waters will be ().,"»
foot higher than the above, and the low waters 0.7 foot lower.

Xt'di) fitJcs. — At the nuton's lirst and last (luarters the high waters will be ()..")
foot lower, and the low waters will not fall as low by 0.7 foot.

Inside the entrance of Tillamook IJay its general direction is soutlwa.st by
south half .south for two and a half miles, then ea.st live-eighths .south tor two and
ii cpiarter miles. It rapidly expands as it stretches .southwanl, and there is a
small .shallow cove lying to the northward and eastward of the parallel of (iieeii
Hill. The bay is mostly occupied by flats that are bare at low water. The ]>riiici-
pal channel through it runs from the inside of the south jioint of the eiitraiico
towards the .southeast i)ait of the bay ; and after reaching the middle of the bay,
just south of Mematnet head, it runs parallel with the eastern shore, at an average
distance of half ii mile, until abreast of Shell Point, when it runs southward a
short distance aiul abruptly turns to the southeast, running clo.se along shore. It
is .said that ve.ssi Is drawing eight or ten feet of water can go up the slue about si.x
miles above the head of the l>ay at high water. Up to ISOT there had been three
ves.sels built hei'e, the largest about forty tons burden. One of these was
engaged, in 1807, in "'aking occasionul trips to Portland for tloiir and other sup-
plies. The exports consi.st of a little butter and some few hides. The whole
imports and exports do not exceed lifty tons yearly. There is a considerable
amount <»f timber, consisting of siuuce, flr, hemlock and cedar, adjacent to tlio
bay, but as yet nothing has been done to develoj) its value.

Tebenkt)lf has a deep indentation of the coast in the jiosition of Tillamook

140

COAST PILOT OF OREGON.

■! •;

i I

IJiiy, and {;iv('s the rocks to tlio soutlnvard and tlioso to the iiortli. Eini>tyiiis
into the southern part of this bight he lias tlie river Xikas.

NKIIALEM KIVKU.

About one ami a liall" niih's nortli of Tillamook P.ar stand the double-headed
rocks described above; thence the (roast runs ten or eleven miles nearly straijiht
to Cai)e Falcon, receivinji' a considerable stream called the Nehalem ivivei'.

The oix'uin.u- to this stream is in latitude t.")^ ll.j', ai)i>roxiinately, and for
tiiree miles from its mouth it lies i»arallel and close under the west side of a blulf
covered with timber and running lu'arly north and south. Anumd the northwest
l)oint of the bluff the sticam conies sharply from the eastward and is about three-
quarters of a mile in width at high water, with eighteen feet depth at that stage of
tide, lietween tlie river and (he sea lies a long, narrow strip of sand duiu's, hav-
ing a breadth of four hundr;Ml yards ami a general elevation of tweuty five feet.
At the southern extremity of the sand <lunes (he point runs one mile further at low
water. Abreast this point the river contracts its width to tw(» hundred yards with
very little <lepth of water, while upcm the bar the sea breaks almost unceasingly.
Inside ami abreast the southernmost sand duut s there is as much as thirty feet
depth of water, with a rocky ledge on the eastern side.

The entrance to the river from the bar to the northwest point of the blulf was
examined by the Coast Survey iu ISdS.

Ill July 18(>7, when passing northward close along the coast we found tin*
Nehalem entering abreast of a red break in the low wooded bluff about six iirles
iKH'tli of Tillamook r>ar. It conies from the northward about one mile close under
the bluff, with a low narrow sand-tongue between it and the ocean. The inside
bluff retreats eastward and thence this tongue increases in height northward and
becomes covered with grass and tiees. Inside of it tin' Nehalem sju'cads into ii
lagoon four miles wide with a length of eight miles, wlu'ie it decreases in width.
The general direction of the lagoon is north-mntheast. The hills behind the
Nehalem ajipcar cut by many valleys. The tongue forming the oceau boundary
to the lagoon runs iKuth-northwest to a donble-heaih'd peak, about three (piarters
ol a mile soutli of Cape Falcon. This peak (about twelve hundred feet high) is
grass-covered to the summit, with a few burnt tr«'es in the gtuges. It is known
by the Indian name of Ne-ah-kahnie. At the base, on the south side of the
mountains, is a large Inmse.

Tebenkotf has a stream, designated the river Nnhalem, emiitying in latitude
45<^ .54', but this position is close under Tillamook Head.

Clarke, Avlien alxmt five miles south of Tillamook Head, says that the priiuii-
jtai town of the Killamucks is sitUided twenty miles lower (south,) at the entraneo
to a creek called Nielee, expanding into a bay Avliicli he named Killamucks Bay.
Upon (his bay were several ICillamuck towns. Killamuck Hiver is at the head of
the bay, one hundiiMl yards wide and very rajiid ; itiit having no iierpendiciilar fall,
is a great aveiiui' for trade. Tlu-re are two small villages of KillamucKs settled

COAST riLOT OF OREGON.

141

above its mniitli, and the wliolo tradiiis portion of tlio tribe ascend it till by a
slioit ])ortii,n'e tliey earry their eanoes to the Colnnibia Valley, and descend the
]\[nltnoniah to Wai)i)atoo Island. This infonnation he obtained from Indians and
tracU'rs. On this short exi)edition he made ail his distances froni Cape Disai)i)oint-
ment and Point Adams too j;reat, and redncinj; the fore-mentioned twenty miles
by the |)i'op( r proi)ortion, it wtnild ^ive ns thirteen miles as altont the jmsition of
the Nehalem. His name seems to aj^ice with this, but the descrix)tion ai»i>lies to
what is ^'enerally kn(»wn as Tillamook J>ay.

It was in this vicinity that Meares stood in for an anclnn'aji'e, (-Tuly 17SS,)
until lie foinid bott(mi in ten fathoms, but hauled out again and named the i)lacc
Quicksand Day, and the adjoinin.!;' headland north Cape Cirenville.

CAl'K FALCON, Oil FALSK TILLA3IOOK.

The northern part of this headkind lies in latitude irp 17', ]on},ntude 123'3 r»S'.
Upon ])assinK' close by it in isr»7, we jud/j;ed it to be not less than three thousand
feet hiji'h, with the sea face cominj;- ]>recipitonsIy to the ocean, and off it lie two
]>rominent rocky islets. As seen IVom the soutliward, the top is irn';;ular,
Avhile the iiiils inshore fall away. Like some other points on the Oreg'ou coast,
the southern face of the cape is destitute of ti'ces, but covered with a tliick j^rowth
of {^rass, bushes, and fern. Tw(» miles south of it is a sti'ctch of sand beach amt
sand dunes, behind which is the Xelndem Kiver.

A few miles eastward of tlu' cajte is a very broken mountain.

the Coast

wenty(»ue miles, west by noitli tliree-((uarters iiorta, lioni the cajte the » oii
Survey chart knives a sounding' of eiiihty-five fathoms ovei' nnuldy bottom; and
another of one liiuidred and thirty fathoms, same bottom, twenty-sev«'n miles west
half north from the cape.

From Cape Lookout to this headlan<l a depth of twenty fathoms may ; -ner-
ally be found a mile from sh(»re ; but, as ui)ou the whole coast, a heavy regular
swell always ntds in fntm the west.

In 177."), Ileceta [)laeed a headland in latitude l.'P t,"/, to which he gave the
ai)pellation Cai)e Falcon. According to his description it had a rocky islet lyinj^
oil" it. In IH.kJ Davids(m applied this uanu' to the cape as far preferable to using
the term "■ false" to capes, bays, &c., the names of which were at tirst uncertain.

In 178S, ]\Ieares called this Cape (Jrenville.

The Indian name tor the double-peaked mountain about thrce-fiuarters of a
mile sctuthward of it, is Neah-kah-nie.

TILLAMOOK KIUD.

This prominent cape, in latitude 45'^ .>S', is twelve miles north-northwest from
Cape Falcon, and nineteen miles southeast by south half south from Cape Disaj)-
pointmeiit. The coast from Cape Falcon curves two miles eastward; is bold and
nigged, guarded by many high rocky islets and reefs, ami in several places bor-
dered by a low .sand beach at the ba.se of the clilVs. Two miles .south ol the liead.

142

COAST riLOT OF OEECJON.

fit

Clarke (ISO.VC) locates a creek, eij^lity yards wide at its month, wliicli lie calls
Ecola or Wliale Creek. From the south bar of the ('olnmltia IJiver the .snmiuit of
Tillamook appears Hat for some distance back, and has an estimatitl hcijiht of tw>
thonsand five hundred leet. Olf the face of the ca[)e, which is very steep, lie sev-
I'rai rocky islets, Oue of them is hij^h and ru«i\!;ed, and stands out about a mile
from the southwest fa«'e. Around it the water is believed to be deep, as, durinj;' a
thick fo^' in IS.jo, we came almost upon it in the Coast Survey steamer; but inside
of it lie several Iiij;h rocks. Froi;i Columbia liiver Dar two rocks can be distinctly
seen apparently otf this head, the inner beinj^ the larger, and its apparent distance
from tile head about half the ajipareiit height of the cajic. Whether the smaller
is the (MIC otV Cape Falcon, we did not determine. As seen from the southward
the large rock has a perpendicular face to the westward, and slopes to tiie east. It
is the resort of tliDUsaiids of seals.

From Cape Falcon to the large, rocky islet otf Tillamook Head, the line ol
soundings incn ases regularly from sixteen to thirty fathoms; and thence to the
south bar of Columbia Hiver, they range from twenty two to thirteen, and sud-
denly shoal, near the bar, to three fathoms. Eleven miles northwest by north one-
third north from Tillamook Head, the Coast Survey chart has a sounding in sixty
fatlioiiis over sandy bottom; and seventeen miles southwest one-tliird west from the
head there is a depth of eighty fathoms, over muddy bottom. From tiftcen to
eighteen miles west by south from Tillamook Head, La Ferouse got soundings
in eighty fathoms over muddy bottom.

This cape is a good landmark lor making the month of the Cohimbia River,
no sii"li high headland occurring on the coast northward of it for over seventy
miles; and before being up with it, the moderately high land of Cape Disappoint-
ment is seen and made as two islands.

The face of the cape is much broken, and formed i)rincii»aliy of yellow clay,
pi-esenting a bright appearance in the sunlight. Clarke says that twelve hundred
I'cct above the ocean occurs a stratum of white earth, then (lS(),")-'(>) used by the
Indians as i)aint; and that the hillsides sli]) away in masses of fifty to one hundred
acres at a time. Fpon the top of the cajie he found good, sound, solid trees grow-
ing to a height of two hundred and ten feet, with diameters of from eight to twelve
feet. From Tillamook Head southward many miles was the country of the Killa-
muck Indians, then estimated to number a thousand people, anil having fifty
luHises.

In latitude 45° 55' La Perouse speaks of a cape formed by a rotuid-topiied
mountain, as the Cai)e Kedondo of the Spaniards. It bore east 5° south, triu', from
his position. The Coast Survey chart has a mountain eight miles cast-iKutheast
from the head.

De Mofras calls it the Cap X. S. de la Lux.

This is the head which is projierly called "Clarke's Point of View."

Some r<'ceiit ni.ips erroneously call (his Cape Lookout.

The coiisl from Point Orford to Tillamook Head is AVi'll diversilied bv high

liicli ]io calls
1h' .siuniiiit of
"'ifilit (.f t\v 1
't»'<'i>, lii' si'v-
i')')iit ii i:ii|(.
ns, (luring- a
'; l>ur iii.side
bo (listiiu'tly
out distance
tlie smaller
•southward
iieoast. It

:'J^>?h^

'^^if'y

'■J/!-

the lino ot
once to the
>> and snd-

iiorth one-
11^' in sixty
St from the

fiftoon to
soundings

bin J?ivor,
'1' so\-cii ty
isappoint-

llow clay,
hundred
'd hy the
hundred
i>i's !j;i'o\y.
fo twelve
lio Killa-
i"«- iifty

il-toi)i)ed
■110, from
oithoust

L)y Iiigh

COAST riLOT OF OIUXJON. 143

liills and valloys, proscnting' a pouiitiy well watered by luiineroiis small streams
emptying into tlie oeean. It is densi-ly covered with vaii(»us woods, and lor a IVw
miles inland, looks favitrably from the deek of a vessel. Son)e distance in the inte-
rior, ranges of mountains ocM'ur, the jieneral direction of which appears to i)e par-
allel with the coast-line, which attained its fireatest elevation and compaetness
between Cape Falcon and Tillamook Head; after >vhich a sudden and marked
chango takes i»lace, and a stretch of low sandy coast commences, and runs for
nearly one hundred miles northward, only broken by Cape I)isa]ipointment. The
hiyh uiouutains of the interior are, however, seen over this low shore.

COLOnUA KIVEK.

POINT ada:ms.

Two iniles northward of Tillamook Head commences a peculiar line of low
sandy ridjies, ruuninj;- parallel to the beach towards I'oint Adams, and appearinj;
like liuj;e sand waves covered with f;rass and fern. ]>etweeu some of them run
small cieeks, while the country behind is low, swamjsy, and covered with Avood and
an almost impenetral)lo nnderj;rowth. About three miles north of the head, Clarke
says, a beautiiul stream empties, with a strong rapid cm-rent. It is eighty-fivo
yards wide, and has three feet at its shallowest crossing.

Point Adams is low and sandy, covered with busb.es and trees to the line of
sand b(>ach and Ioav dunes; and although it is repented to have washed awaj- over
half a mile since 1811, mo find comparatively small changes since the survey of
Broughton in 1702.

The geographical position of the flag-statt" of Fort Stevens is:

Latitude 10 12 21.0 north.

Jjongitude 12.'} 50 17.8 west.

/(. m. K.

Or, in time 8 15 47.2

This [>osition is on the northeast part of the point, about half a mile from tho
ocean beach.

Fort Stevens is built on Point Adams.

No light-house exists here, but the necessity for one has been so repeatedly
urged, that we cannot refrain from calling attention to a few facts bearing upon
the ((uestion. Oft" this i)oint, southwest by south three and a rpiarter miles, lies
(1852) the bar of the south channel, through which the for greater portion of tho
trade has passed; and all vessels use this point as a standard point for their ranges.
During the early i)art of the evening, dense fogs formed over the waters of Gray's
and Shoalwater Hays are brought southward by the summer Avinds, aiul roll over
Disappointment, Avhich they completely shut in before reaching across the river,
so that a vessel nught make a light on Ponit Adams Avhen the other cape was invisi-
ble; but if both lights Avere Aisible a vessel could hold any recpiired position at

144

COAST PILOT OF OKIXJON.

! f

iiijjlit iioar oitlior bar, uiul run in and take a pilot ui)on tlic first opportnnity; for
it \V(»nl(l 1)0 assnniinj;' too ;,'r('at a risk to enter the river at nijjlit, or without a
pilot.

Tlii.s ])oint was ealled Capo Froadoso l»,v lleceta, who diseovorod hut did not
enter this rlvor in Auj^iist 1775; and jianied Adams's Point by Captain (iray, in
17U2. The Indian name of the i)oint is Klaatsop. It is now called Point Adams.

The beaeh around Point Adams and to the southward sonu' distauee is usually
called Clatsojt Peach. Cpon it, many y<'ars i\}io, before the white's occupied the
country, a Chinese or Jajtaiu'se Junk, with many hands and a carj;'o of beeswax,
was cast ashore and went to jtieces; but the crew won; saved. In support of this
Indian tradition, there are occasionally, after {,'reat storms, jtieces of this wax
thrown ashore, coated Avith sand aiul bleached nearly white. Formerly a t;reat deal
Avas found, but now it is rarely nu't with. Ileleher mentions having' a sitecimeii.
]\lany iteoi>le on the Coliunbia p«»ssess them, and we have seen several [iie«*es. In
a late work* this wreck has been confounded m itli another that took place lu'ar
Cape Flattery.

COAST AND SHORES OF WASHINGTON TERRITOTIY AND
OPPOSITE SHORE OF VANCOUVER ISLAND.

CAPE DIS/VrOlNTJIENT.

Tho north side of the Coliuiibiii IJiver l\)riiis ])art of WiisIiiii;.;toii Territory.
It Mils tiic soiitlicni boniidiiry of Vancouver's "Xew (Jeorj;ia," 171L'.

Tiiis ('a[)e is tlie only lieadland tiiat breaks the htw line of shore froiu Tilla-
niooiv to latitude 47^ 20'. It ju'esents a <;'eoloj;ieal formation not before uwt with
on the seaboard, beinj;' composed of horizontal columnar l>asalt risinj;' to an cleva-
tictn of two hundred and eiffhty-seven feet, disposed in a succession of huf;e round
hills, Inoken on the sea front by short strips of sand beach, aiul covering' an irregii-
hir area of about three miles by one. The sea faces of all the hills and irrej'ularly
pr()jectinj;' knobs rise i>erpendicularly formally feet, and then slope sliyhtiy inshore
to narrow ridj^es. They are destitute of trees, but are covered with p'ass, fern,
and bushes. The soil is thin but excellent. Inshore of these crests tho trees
commence; and their to^is reaching above the summits of the hills, increase their
apjiarent height. The inshore slope of the hills is more gentle, so that paths can
be easily carried to their tojis. In IS."*! au ox-team road was opened by the Coast
Hurvcy to the summit of th(!cai»e. When the evening fogs from the iioithcrn bays
do not cover the cape, a dense fog sometimes rolls down the river about sunrise,
enveloj)ing everything below the toj) of the cape, so that the summit appears like
an islet in a sea of mist. The evening fogs have often been known to last for live
weeks, without a single clear night.

From the southward, off Tillamook Ilead, Cape Disappointment is made as
two round-topp* d islands. x\piu'oached from the northwest, it rises in a similar
manner. From the west and southwest it appears luojected upon the mountains
inshore of it; but the slightest haze in the atmosphere brings it out in sharp relief.
The isolated position of this headland, and the seaward face of its bold, treeless
clilfs, form a pecidiar feature of a long stretch of coast. As it is l»asaltic, and pre-
sents an almost iron front to river and sea, it is iinpossilile that *'in the memory of
many. Cape Disappointment has been worn away some hundred feet by the sea
and strong currents that run by it."*

On the beach inside of the cape is a deposit of auriferous and ferruginous "black
sand," the flakes of gold being small and very scarce. This black sand, by tho
iron contained in it, causes a local disturbance iu tho magnetic variation amount-
ing to 2()'.2; the variation being less by that amount than the decliuatiou found
on the summit of the cape.

i-m

10»

' United StatoH exploring expedition, 1S41.

146

COAHT PILOT OF WAbilLKGTOX TERKITOKY.

(!APE DISAPl'OINTMKNT I-UillTIIOrSE.

Tho liKlit-houso is not upon tlio top of the cape, but upon a spur a little
to tho west of the soutlicast point, and ahout ninety live feet bdow the hi},'ht'st
]>ait. Tho tower 's wliilcwashcd, and beinff forty fet?t in hoij^Iit, and projected
ajjainst a dariv }j;reen back^^round, shows well in daylijjht. The focal plane of tho
lens is one hundred and ninety-two feet above the mean level of the sea.

The lij;lit is a Ji.ir<l irliitr I'ujht, of the lirst order of Fresnel ; was first er lib-
ited October lo, lM,")(i, and shows fioni sunset to sunrise. Under a favorable state
of the atmosphere it should be seen from a height of —

10 feet at a distance of 21 miles.

L'O feet at a distance of 2L'.i miles.

30 feet at a distatu'c of 2.'{:f miles.

00 feet at a distance of -Ct\ miles.

Its geographical position, as determined by the Coast Survey, is —

Latitiule 40 10 32.7 north.

Longitude 12 1 02 13 west.

h. m. n.

Or, in time 8 10 08.9

Magnetic variation, 20° 1.7 east, in July 18.")l, with a yearly increase of 1'.

Counting rouml seaward from the south, it commands the horizon for about
135 degrees; that is, from scmth-southeast to northwest one-(pun'ter west, so that
vessels coming fro n the northward cannot sec the light until nearly in the lati-
tude of the river. In July 1807, determined from sea the bearing of the light
at night, when it was shut in by the higher part of the cape, to be scmtheast
quarter east. Placed on the top of the cape, it could have been easily made to
show over the northwest part of it, and Avould also have commanded the entire
river and Baker's Bay.

From Cape l)isapi»ointment we have the following bearings and distances of
objects to the northward :

Point Grenville, northwest by north half north, 02 miles.

Destruction Island, northwest by north, 84 miles.

Flattery Itocks, northwest five-sixths north, 118 miles.

The last line passes tangent to the coast iu latitude 47° 58', where there are
two well-marked rocks, which will be hereafter described.

FOG-BELL AT CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT.

A fog-bell of sixteen hundred pounds has been placed on the bluff" in advance
of the light-tower, and is sounded during foggy or other thick weather, night and
day. The ma(;hinery is on a level with the ground, in a frame building, white-
washed, and with the front open to receive the bell, which strikes nine consecu-
tive blows each minute.

pnr ji little
tlic highest
1 l>r«»JH'tt'(l
lane of tbo

first ex ilb-
•lable state

.7 north.
Avest.

3 of 1'.

for about
t, so that

the lati-

tlio ]i/.lit
sontht'ii.st

made to
the outirc

itaneos of

tbt're are

advance
iyl't and
?, wliitc-
uonsecu-

I f

COAST PILOT OF \VASIllN(iTON TIMilJlTOUY. 147

Till' i)riiiiiuy asfrdiioiniciil stiitioii of the Coiist Survey is on tli»> liij^lii'st piirt of
tlio south* Til «'Xtr«'iMitj of llie caix'. Its {j;('o;;Tiii»lii<'al position is—

Latitude Ifi Ifi ?,r^:l noitli.

Lon;;itU(h' 'I't oi] (lO.Swcst.

/i. m, «.

Or, in tiino S 1(» OS.L

From Capo Orford to Cap*; Disappointment tlio. extent of oeeaii shoreline is
not less than two hundred and ei;;hty-tive miles.

In Au^^ust 177r», this cape was placed l>y lleecta in Iatitu<le ItP 17', and calhMl
Cape San Itoipw.

In .Inly I7SS, it was called Cape Disaitpointment l»y Meares, and jilaeed in
latitude ItP 10' "by an inditfcreiit observation." It was called Cape Hancock by
Cray, in 17!tl.*, and the entrance placed in latitmle KP 17'. lie, however, chan^'ed
this name to Disappointment ui»on hearin^jf that ^fcares had so named it.

In 17!)- it was placed in latitude? KP V.V by Vancouver.

On the Pacific; coast it is and 1ms been known by net other name than Cape
Disappointment.

The Indian name for the cape is KiUi-eese.

TIIK BARS AM) ]:XTUAX(!i; TO THE COLr:MI>IA RlVin}.

Tlio e' trance to Columbia Piver is live miles wide bctwt'cn the. nearest parts
of Cape Disappointment and Point Adams, bearinfi' Uiuth west by west one-(piarter
west, and southeast by east oiu' (piartcr east of each other. Put the passa^i'c is
greatly obstructed by siiiftin;;' shoals, which lie two itr three miles outside of the
line Joining' the two points. The numerous surveys that have been made of this
river at different times prove so conclusively the ^reat changes constantly K«'i"rt
on in the channels throufi'li the shoals, that no sailin.n' directions that may be pre-
pared can be relied upon for any great length of time. The best advice that cau
be given mariners is, kIxcm iq) with the hnr wait for a pilot.

Up to October isr>7, the mail and coast steamers ontei'od by the south chan-
nel, i)arallel with and close to the beach south of Point Adams. Put in that month
this channel, which had been gradually narrowing as it ai»proache(l Point Achims,
suddenly closed, and rcnained closed until 180S, obliging vcsmIs to use the north
channel. But in the ea'ly part of ISOS it again opened, and had then more water
upon the bar than the north channel, which in former times had the best depth.
The north channel, although it gives a detour of some miles, has a straight chau-
iiel over the bar, and from the iinwearing nature of the cape does not change its
position so mnch. Sailing vessels cannot beat into the south channel against the
summer winds blowing from the !)rthwest; so they arc obliged to use the north
channel. Put they almost inva'' ibly come out through the former ; as with the
prevailing wind they can easily fetch out by the point of Clatsop Spit, and then
have a fair wind over the bar.

Diuing heavy weather, and especially in winter, the sea breaks with ter-

148

COAST riLOI or WASIIIXGTOS TElililTOKV.

111

% \

rific fury from novtliwest of Ca])e Disnppointiiiont, well to tlio soutlnviird of Point
Atliims. Tho iiiiiil .stcaincrs have soiiu'timcs to wait days for the siiiallcst show of
an oiK'nin<>- to j;('t in ; and saiiinj;- vessels liavc laid otV the entrance six weeks,
Avaitinj;' for a iair opportunity to enter. ^Fany lie inside for weeks id. able to y'et
out. The mail steamers, hy exertiiijn' all their power, sometimes drive tiirouj;h the
t'ombers, but have tlieir decks sweiit fore and aft by evoy sea. Few i)]aces jne-
sent a scene of more wiidness than tliis l»ar during' a soutlu'ast sale, contrasting"
stron.nly with many times dnrinn' tiie sunnuer, when not a breaker is to be seen on
tlio shoalest sjiots. NVIiat is most neciled here is .i powerful propeller tug', which
the amount of trade W(uild assuredly warrant, whei; we know that the much
smaller trade of Humboldt r>ay sui)poits handsomely a tug for that bar. In bad
"weather the iiilot-lioats cannot venture out, but a steamer might. The mail
steamers, to avoid delay, carry a bar pilot with them.

On the authority of the pilots, it is said that about June, during the season of
freshets, fresh water can be taken up lor the use of vessels on the bar.

"NVhen otV the entrance, in fine, clear weather, the beautiful suovi; ])eak of
]\Iount St. lleh'us shows over the lowest ])art of the land inside, apparently
in the middle of the river valley. (See view.) It is very regular in (mtliue,
and jtresents a pyramidal appearance, l,;iving a base e(|ual to either side. It is
over seventy-five miles to the eastward of the entrance to the river, and its height
is estimated ;it thirteen thousau<l live hundred feet. It is volcanic, and occasionally
discharges volumes of smoke.

The ciinriit. — Otf Sandy Island, in the south channel, the strength of the ebb
current was measured in 1S,>!, ami found to be nearly five and a half miles per
lumr.

The observations made by the Coast Survey in ISOS, howovor, show ii
maxinuim velocity of only .">.l miles in the same position. These observations
Avore carefully made, and show the direction and velocity of the current during
each (]uarter of the eltb and llood, from the bar to Astoria.

These observations show, tirst, t'lJit there is no slack-water at the change (tf
tides from llood to ebb; secondly, fhat (»tf the entrance to the north channel tho
maximum velocity of the llood is two miles per hour, and the set cast-southeast;
the maximum velocity of the el»b is 2.;{ miles, and the set southwest by south half
south, almost exactly in the direction of the axis of tlu' channel. In the north
chamu'l, between the middh sands and the southwest ])oint of the north breakers,
the velocity of thetiood Avas 2.."» miles, and its set east by south, or nearly across
the channel. The velocity of the ebb was L'.T miles, ami its set s(Uithw«'st half
■west, directly down the channel. Olf Cape I)isap}»ointmeiit, between it and Sul-
phur Spit, (where Belcher grounded,) the nnder-current of the Hood set mntli by
cast; and the surface ebb set southwest half south, with a velocity of .'{.1 milvs.

nu'ut light house

•P

MM'

bearing west southwest, the velocity .1' the ebb increases to 4.1 miles p,'r hour,
wetting west by south, exactly toward Capo Disappointment. There is here very

^\ -#3^

COAST riLOl or Washington tekritoky.

149

litti'> flood-currout. At the Juiictiou of the north nii<l south clmniiols, oiio inilo
('list ol'Siiiid Isliuid, tlio flood Wiis east by south half south one aud a half niih-s per
hour; and the cbl), west half north, four miles jter hour.

Otf the south ehaniu'I entranee, oiu' and a lialf nules southeast of the south
end of the middle sands, the ehb attains a velocity of two miles ])er lu)ur, with a
set at its maximum, south half west. Tlu^ tlood sets east -southeast, when it
attains its greatest veloeity, which is 1.3 miles. Olfthe northwest end of Clatsop
Spit, flood, at its maximum, sets t-ast by north half north, at the rate of l.i miles;
and the ebb, southwest half west, three miles per liour. In mid-chainiel, southeast
of the eastern end of Sand Island, the ebb attains a velocity of 3.1 miles, aiul sets
west by south ; while the ilood at its maxinui' i sets east half north, with a velocity
of l.!t miles. This is very nearly the same position where, in 18.j1, the velocity
was found to be nearly live and a half miles,

The followin.n- table will show the set i.nd velocity of the ebb and flood durin,i>-
each quarter, between the bar and Astoria. It will be Ibund of great use to
mariner:;.

Current Stations in Columbia Rircr.

\ll

Ht lit ion.

1st quarto

^[a\iiiiuni.

3il iiuartor.

Eloiiil

Sot.

Drilt.

Sot.

Drift.

Sot.

Drift.

or
Ebb.

Oil" III nth iliamu'I riitranco...

K. liy S. i S.

0.7

K. hy S, .1 S.

I 2

SE. hy E.

1.1

I'loml.

S. J !•;.

1,1

SW. hy.S. J S.

'J. ,-)

SW. i W.

1.1)

Ehb.

Simlli iIiiiiiihI iiiti-iiiu'i'

K. .J S.

0. K

lO.SlO.

l.H

SE. ,| E.

1.1

EIiioil.

SK. hyS.

l.."!

S. J W.

l.!l

S.SW.

1.2

Ehb.

Oil' Clatsn]) spit

Si;, hv K. J E.

0.7

E. hy X'. J X.

1.4

E.XE.

1.0

FloiHl.

S. h w.

i.a

SW. J W.

;i.»

SW. J s.

1.0

Ebb.

Xorlli rliiiiiiu-l. lii'twcin X

nth (

N.Ni;.

1.7

E. hy S.

a. :,

SE. J E.

l.li

Eliioil.

Jircakcrs aiiv Miilillc Soiiit

Is.. (

S.SW.

1. 5 1 «W. ?, W.

a. 7

W. hy S. J S.

1.4

Ehb.

liitwrcii Saiiil Islaiiil anil 1'

.iiit (

1.1

K. 4 X.

l.O

SE. hy S. J S.

O.rt

" "lootl.

.Vilains

SW. hv S.

i.;t

W. hy S.

;i.j

SW. hy W.

1.,-)

Ehb.

Kast siili- 111' Capo Disappi
imnl

iiit- ^

X. hy E.
I'liiloroiiiTont.
SW. i S.

Fliioil.

s. 4 w.

1.1

.-t. 1

SW. hv S.

1.2

Ehb.

lift wi' 1 Saiiil Islanil anil ("

apr (

SE. hy E.

0.4

Ell 11 111.

1 niloroiinont.
SW. J W.

1.,-.

W. hy S.

4.4

1 iiiloroiirront.
\y. hy S. ,J S.

....(

l.li

Ebb.

Xiirtli nf Saiiil Islanil

■••• j

K.si:.

n.ii

E.SE.

1. u

XK.

0. ci

Elooil.

1.1

W.XW.

•J. 7

XW. hy W.

i.:t

Ehb.

lii'twi'ii ScailinM)' llill ami >

aiii'. ^

NIC. h,v !■:. iE.

n. li

E. hy S. 1 S.

I..-1

SE. hy S.

1.1

J'liiiiil.

Islaiiil

1..-1

W. .J X.

■1.0

W. hy X.

2.:i

Ebb.

Otl'Siiiliiini' Hill

i:.ii,v X.

I.'-'

E. h.\ X.

1. 1'

K. hv S.

1.0

EInii !.

\v.

1.7

W. hy S.

4.0

W. SW.

2. .')

Ebb.

Oil' I'l.ii Sli'vi'iis

■l

E.SK.
W. J s.

n.(i

1.2

E.SE.
W. hy X.

1.4

:i.-j

Si:, hy E.

i.:i

1.5

Elond.
Ebb.

1-j

Oir Taiisi'v Tuint

K. hv S.
.V\V. hv W.

0. .'^
1.0

E. by S. 5 S.
W.XW.

L.-i

:i.o

SE. hy E.
W. hv X.

0.9
2.0

Fliioil.
Ebb.

i:i

Oil' SlvippiTiniiiif; Crvrk

!•:. hy X.

w. 4 s.

1.5
1.7

E.XE.
W. hy S.

2.0

;i.o

E.XE.

W. hy S.

0.7

l.fi

Eliiml.
Ebb.

Oil" Siuitirs Point

K. hy X.

W. hy S. 4 S.

0. JJ
l.li

E. hy X.
W.SW.

1.7
3.7

SW. hy W.

0.!)
1.5

EllNllI.

ICbb.

- - —

-—

—

. _ . _._

.ftl

The pi».sitit(ns of the above stations are iiiiirKed iiiioii the Coast Survey chart

U' river.

150

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

Tlio n'oiiornl (l('S('rii)tion of the cliaimels in 18G8 is fouud on pages 155 to 100,
but tlio folknviiig disposition of tlio buoys for cuterins' tlie soutli channel is given,
beeaus(! in 18(i',> no material change was reported except in one case, where the buoy
will be replaced before this is published.

BUOYS FOR ENTERING COLUIVIBIA RIVER BY THE SOUTH CHANNEL.

No. 1. — Outer buoy, nuininioth, first class, l)lack and Avhite vertical stripes, in
tM'elve fathoms of water. Cape Disappointment light-house bears north by west
half west. Point Adams bears northeast, distant four miles. Red buoy bears north,
distant two and one-fourth miles.

No. 2. — ^Mammoth buoy, first class, red, off Clatsoff Spit, in five and one half
fathoms water. Cape Disaiipointment light-house bears north-northwest three-
()iiartcis west; Point Adams bears east one-quarter north, distant three miles;
west end of Sand Island bears north by east, distant one and three-fourths
miles.

No. 3. — Inside, iron buoy, black, marking the Avestern extremity of middle
ground in three fathoms of water. Lighthouse bears west by north half north.
Point Adams bears southwest half south, distance one mile. Sand Island bears
west-northwest, distance three miles.

No. 4. — Iron buoy, black, marking north side of Tansey Point, in fifteen feet of
water. Last buoy bears west by north half north, one and three-fourths miles;
Seai-borough Ilill, north-northwest, three-fourths mile; Tansey I'oint, south by
west, three-fourths mile.

No. 5. — Iron buoy, black, marking north side of channel, off Smith's Point, in
fifteen feet of water; last buoy bears west half south, distant one and one-half
miles; Smith's Point, bears east-southeast, distant one and one-fourth miles; Point
Ellis, north by west one-(piarter north.

No. n. — Spar buoy, black, marking ncnth side of channel abreast of Astoria in
tweh, e feet of water. Astoria Point bears southwest thiee-(iuarrers west. Point
Ellis bears northwest by north. Distance from Elavel's Wharf one-third of ti
mile.

No. 7. — Spar buoy, white, maiking a ledge of rocks above Astoria, in thirteen

feet of water. Distance from last buoy, one-half mile. Distance from Flavel's
Wharf, three-fourths mile.

Buoys ill Woodi/ jnUind, channel of Cathhtmct Bay.

No. S. — Spar buoy, white, in sixteen feet of water. Tongue Point bears south-
west half stmth, distance one and one-fourth miles. Next white buoy (above) north-
east three-(|uarters east, distant one mile.

No. 0. — Si)ar buoy, Mliite, in sixteen feet of Avater. Tongue Point bears south-
west. Hurnside's House, southeast one-tpiarter south. Next buoy abovc^, black,
bears east by north three-cjuarters north, distant three-fourths mile.

No. 10. — Spar buoy, black, in twelve feet of water. Tongue Point bears south-

^a^aaR-ysK-

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

151

west half west; IJinnside's House, southeast by sontli; next buoy above, white,
northeast by east, three-fourths mile.

No. 11. — Spar buoy, wliite, iu seventeen feet of water. Tongue Point boars
southwest tliree-(]uarters west; YeHow Spot, north one-quarter east; next buoy
above, white, northeast seven-eightlis niik\

No. 12. — Spar buoy, white, in eighteen feet of water. Jim Crow's Point bears
northeast one-quarter east; Yellow Spot, north by west one-quarter north; next
buoy above, black, east by north one-quarter north, two miles.

No. 13. — Spar buoy, black, in three and one-half fatlioms of water. Jim Crow's
Point bears north-northeast ; Rock Knoll, Avest by nortli half north.

TIDES OF THE COLUMBIA RIVKR.

At Astoria the corrected establishment, or mean interval between the time of
the moon's transit and the time of liigh water, is 12//. i2m. Tlie mean ri.ve and
fall of tides is (J.l feet, of spring tides, 7.4 feet, and of neap tides, Hi i'eet. The
mean duration of the tlood is I'Ji. 03«i., of ebb, G/;. 2S;h., and of tlie stand, 0/(. 33m.
The average difference between the corrected establishments of the a. m. and p. m.
tides of the same day is 1/t. 02m. for high water, and Oh. 52m. for low water. The
differences when the moon's declination is greatest are 1/j. 3Sm. and Ih. low., respec-
tively. The average difference in height of those two tides is 1.4 feet for the high
waters, and 2.3 feet for the low waters. When the moon's declination is greatest
those differences are 1.0 feet and 3.7 feet, respeittively. The a\erage difference
of the higher higli and lower low waters of the same day is 7.1) feet, and when
the moon's declination is greatest, 8.9 feet. The liigher higii tide in tlie twenty-
four liours occurs about 12/t. 11m. after the moon's upper transit, (southing,) when
the moon's declination is north, and about 0/(. 15»». before, wlien soutli. The lower
of the low waters occurs about seven and a half liours after the higher high water.
The greatest observed dilference between the two low waters of one day was 5.1
feet, and the greatest difference between the higher high anil lower low Avaters of
one day Avas 11.5 feet.

The two tides of the same day are generally unequal in proportion to the
moon's declination. The time and height can be obtained aiiproximately from the
following table:

Modu'm iipiior mi'iidiaii ]ia.ssngo.

JIoiiu'.s lon-er moridiau passa

K''-

Moon's (locliiiation.

High wati>r.

Low water.

Itigli water.

Low water.

lult'ival.

Hoiglit.

Iiiti'ival.

Height.

Ii; larval.

Height.

Interval.

Height,

Gri'iUcstiioiMi

Zii'o

II. M.
l-i 4

1-J r.

IJ 10

Firt.
f . 1
7. 5
6.5

//. M.

Ill :w
111 11

IH M

r.ri.
—1). t

0,8
•J. 5

If. M.

l:i Hi
1-j ,-.
l-J 1

Fert.
0. -<
7. ."t
H. 1

n. M.

is :w
1.1 u
ill :t9

I\-el.
0.8

—0. 4

The interval is to be added to the time of the moon's meridian passage to give

152

COAST riLOT OF ^VASniNGTON TEKKITORY.

■i

tlio timo of high or low wator. The time of tlio moon's uppor meridian jiassajye is
fiivcn in the Almanac, and tlio time of its lower meridian ])assaf;e is the middle
between two sneeessive njjiier passages. The heights are given in feet and tenths,
ami show the rise above the level of the average of the lowest waters ; to which
level the soundings on tiie chart are given.

Spring tides. — ^\t the full and change of the moon the high waters will be O.S
foot higher than the above, and the low waters 0.5 i'oot lower.

yeap iides. — At the moon's tli-st and last quarters the high waters will be 0.8
foot lower, and the low waters will not fall as low by 0.") foot.

The tide on the bars of the north and south channels makes nearly hfly min-
utes earlier than at Astoria.

rOlNTS INSIDE OF COLUMBIA KIVER ENTRANCE.

Sand Lshoid. — This island, the tirst met with after ])assing the bar, is about
one and a quarter miles long, and is separated at high water into two parts.
These two ])arts lie east-northeast and west-southwest of each other, and are
about four hundred and thirty yards ai)art. They consist of loose sand raised a
few feet above the river, and covered with trees, drift-logs, v*v:c. Friau the west-
ern eiul of Fand Island a sand-l>ar, three-quarters of a mile long and bare at low
water, extends in a west-southwest direction; and from the end of this bare si>it
the great ^Middle Sands make out, sei)arating the north and south channels.

Chinoolc Foinf, on the northern side of the river, lies north by east two and
three-quarters miles from Point Adams, and east quaiter north four and three-
quarters miles from Cape l)isa]>pointment. It is a long, low sand strip at the base
of the high wooded hills behind it. One of the hills, called Scarborough, is
readily recognized by a great ])art of its southern slope being destitute of trees
and covered with fern; no other hill near this vicinity possesses this peculiar
feature.

A niunber of iishiiig and Indian huts are situated upon the Chinoolv beach,
the peoi)le being engaged in catching and curing salmon, with which the waters
abound. TIu> nu)de of catching them is by means of nets; those of Indian con-
struction being made of twine spun from the fibres of the spruce roots, and some-
times from a ])eculiar grass obtained from northern coast Indians. The mode of
curing is very rude and inetlicient, ami thousands of barrels that have been ship-
ped have proved worthless. There is no reason why this should not become a
large and ]U"ofitable branch of business. The llsh are the largest on the coast,
often exceeding eighty pouiuls in weight. "We have purchased them weighing
between fifty and sixty pounds, caught upon the beach at the sea base of Cape
l)isai>i»ointment. They connnence to run about the end of i\Iay, and become
reinarkal>ly jtlentifid by the third week in June. The Indians suppose that the
salmon, coming directly from the ocean, linger about the entrance several weeks
before starting up the river, because they recjuire timo to become accustomed to
the fresh water; attributing to a wrong cause this nornnU habit of the salmon.

ly iiiiii-

COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TERRITOKY. 153

Chinook Point was the special location of the once powerful tribe of Chinook
Indians, and here the celebrated one-eyed chief, Conconily, held sway. The tribe
lias dwindled to less than a hundred persons — men, women, and children — and
they are poor, miserable, drunken, diseased wretches.

The ])oint was called Villaf>e Point by l}rou<;hton, in 171t-.

In 1830 it was called Chenokc Point by Belcher. The Indian name is Nose-
to-ilse.

Point ElUce, on the northern side of the riA'ev, is two and three-quarters miles
nearly east of Chinook Point; the sand beaxih between the two being in some
l»laces nearly a mile wide, runnins at the base of the hills, and surronndinj; a
large lagoon near Chinook. From Point Adams it bears nt)rtheast, distant four
and a third miles.

Behind Point Ellice rise two hills, the southern of which is used as a range
with Point Adams for denoting the entrance to the south channel, but, of course,
the relative positions vary Avith every change of the bar.

It was called Ellis I»oiut by Belcher in 1839, and Point Ellice by the United
States exploring exjjedition in 1841, and this spelling is fimnd u])on all recent
maps, being named after Edward Ellice, then one of the directors of the Iludsou
Bay Company.

The Indian name is No-wehtl-kai-ilse.

Yoiiiufs Point, on the southern side of the river, is the first point made after
passing eastward of Clatsop Beach. Iiiunediately behind it the land is high and
densely wooded; and around its southern face, opens Young's Kiver.

It was called "Point Ceorge" by Bioughton in 17t)L'; "George Point" by
Belcher in 183!) ; "Young's Point" by the United States exphuing exi)edition in
1841; "Smith's Point" by the Coast Survey, iu the triangulatiou of 1852; but it
is, we believe, generally known as Young's Point.

Astor Point, on the southern side of the river, lies east three-(iuarters north,
distant five and a third miles from Point Adams. It is low at the river bank, but
has moderately high wooded land behind it. The southern channel passes (ilose
to it. The name is derived from a Coast Survey triangulatiou and secondary
astronomical station upon it, but it is in reality a i)art of Young's Point.

The geographical position of the station, which is about a quarter of a milo
westward of the bay, in front of the town, is:

o / "

Latitude 40 11 27.G north.

Longitude 1-3 49 31.7 west.

/(. III. s.

Or, ui time H 1^ l^.l-

Tongue Point, on tlie southern side of tlie rivi-r, bears east-northeast eight and

three-(puirters miles from Point Adams, and northeast ouc^-third east three and a

• half miles from Astor Point. It is a high, bold blurt' covered with trees, and cou-

I, A

■ m

154

COAST PILOT OF WASUIXGTON TElllilTOllY.

nccted with tlie main by a moderately low, imrrow strip of land. As first made,
oft' the entranee, it ai)i)ears like a low wooded island. ('lose to it runs the Woody
Island (ihannel, which is plainly foreshadowed in liclehcr's survey of the river.
The Indian name of Tonyue Point is !Soo-kiini-its-t''-ak.

Just above Astor I'oint is situated tlie town of Astoria, now a thrivinj^' com-
mercial place. The custom-house is located here, and it is conne<ted with Salem,
the capital of the State, by a military road. Vessels bound up the ri ,er liero
exchange the "bar pilot" for a "river pilot." About the distance between

Astor and Tongue Points lies the wreck of the ship Silver de Grace ui)on a dan-
gerous rock, close in to which the channel goes, and around which the current
runs with great velocity either way at half tide.

Cdjie Brouijhton is on the north side of the river, north-northwest three and a
quarter miles from Tongue Point, and northeast one-quarter east five and three-
quarters miles from Point Ellice.

It was nanuid by Belcher in 1839, but was called Gray's Point by the United
States exi)loring expedition.

On the Coast Survey charts it is called Cape Broughton.

The head between Point Ellice and Cape Broughton Avas named Chatham
Head in 18;i9.

Gray\s Bay lies to the northeast of Cape Broughton, and was named in 1792 in
honor of Captain Gray.

Young\s Bay lies between the eastern part of Clatsop Beach (called Tansey
Point) and Young's Point. Into it empty Young's River, discovered, examined,
and iu\nied by Broughton; Lewis and Clarke's Kivers, examined by them in 1805 ;
and one or two small streanjs or slues.

jKaAt'»-'s Bay lies between Caj>e Disappointment and Chinook Point. It runs
two and a half miles to the northward of the cape, and receives the waters of
the snudl streams which head towards Shoalwater Bay, and is connected with
them by a small portage. The western and largest stream is the ^Val-la-khut ; the
eastern, half-way between the cape and Chinook Point, is the AVap-pa-loo-chee.

The Columbia Itiver Avas called the " Oregon," from the mere mention of that
name, by Carver, in 170(5. Much doubt exists as to tlie origin of the name.

In 1775 it was called "Assumi»tion Inlet" by lleceta, but afterwards the
Rio de San Roque, from his naming the northern cape San Rocpie, and also the
Ensenada de lleceta.

In 1789 ]\Ieares called it "Deception Bay."

In 1792 it was liamed " Columbia River " by Gray.

Clarke says that, in 1805, the Indians knew it as the Shoeatilnm ; and
another name, obtained from another body of the natives, was Chockalillcum ; the
two being evidently the same word dillerently pronounced. The accent should be
on the penult.

When the name given by Gray was (irst changed is not known. It was, per-
haps, done l>y Vancouver or Broughton.

ls first made,
IS tlie Woody
of the river.

liriviiij>- coiii-
witli Salem,
le ri/er liere
nice between
', upon a dau-
i the current

■ three and a
e and three-

y the United

led Chatham

wl in 1792 in

lied Tansey
1, examined,
lem in 1805 ;

nt. It runs
lie waters of
inectcd with
la-klmt; the
i-loo-chee.
ition of that
lame.

awards the
nd also the

tilum; and
ilk'um ; the
it should bo

t was, per-

COAST PILOT OF WASCIInGTOX TEEIUTORY.

155

From Three-trees Point (or Cathlamet) the distance to the mouth of tlie Cow-
litz is twenty-seven miles; to St. Heh-n's, sixty-five miles; to the month of the
AVillaiiiette, sixty-three miles; to Vancouver, the military post, sixty-eight miles;
and to Portland, the commercial capital, seventy-flve miles.

It is reported that two feet less water can be taken over the " Swan Island
bar," in tin; Willamette Uiver, just below P(n'tland, than can be taken throu;;ii tlu^
Woody Island channel. Above Tongue Point a river pilot is absolutely necessary
to all strangers.

CIIAlSraES IN THE CHANNELS AT THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER.

The first reliable survey of the entrances to the river was made by Lieutenant
Broughton, under the orders of Vancouver, in October 1792. His survey shows
that but one channel existed ; that its general direction across the bar was east
by north three-quarters north, passing one and a lialf miles south of Cape Disap-
pointment ; that it was six miles long from the outer five-fathom line to a line join-
ing the cape with Point Adams; that it was one and one half m s wide, and had
not less than four fathoms in it ; and that the Spit Bank (now called Chinook Spit)
stretched nearly straight from about a mile east of the caiie to Chinook Point.
In the space bounded by the three lines joining Cape Disappointment, Chinook
Point, and Point Adams, five fathoms was the least water found. The deepest
channel, after getting over the bar, was close under the north shore eastward of
Chinook Point. A narrow channel was also develoijed between the river side of
Point Adams and the shoal stretching from Cape Broughtoii towards it. It had
three fathoms in it.

British Ailmiraltij Survey in ISS^,). The next examination of the' entrance to
Columbia Kiver was made by Sir Edward Belcher in 18;J9. His survey shows the
following remarkable changes: Between Cape Disappointment and Post Adams a
large middle bank had formed, (the present great middle sands,) and near the
eastern end of this bank a sandy island appeared, (Sand Island,) Avith a bank one
and a half miles long, extending to the westward from it, bare at low water^
and full of snags and trees. Its northwestern point bore east-southeast, two and
three-quarters miles from Cape Disappointment, stretching on this course one and
a h-'df miles further, so that its eastern end bore north half M'est, one and
a third miles from Point Aihims. Off this eastern end was found deep water.
This great middle ground, covering an extent of four square miles within the
three-fathom lines, occujiied part of the track where Broughton, in 1792, found
five fathoms. The ^Middle Bank and Sand Island divided the waters of the river,
and tl.as two channels were formed. The bank on the southwestern face of Cai»e
Disappointment (now cjvlled Iforth Breakers) stretched one and a half miles to
the southward of its old limits, and nearly across Broughton's only channel of 1792.
A middle ground had formed to the eastward of Cape Disappointment, and oft' the
entrance to Baker Bay, which separated what is now called the north channel
from the channel into Baker Bay. On the northwest point of this shoal Bel-

{

156

COAST I'lLOT OF WASIJINGTON TEIMUTOIIY.

clipr foniid only six foot. Tti 1702 tliprc was (loop water all over iho space
occupied in lS.'i!M)y tliis iiiithllc firound. Si)it Hiink (now called Cliinook Si>it)
had been cut away by the waters of IJclclier (Jliannel, (now called Ntutli ("liannel.)
The western part of the shoal oil" Point Adams had been cut away to a distance
of three miles, and a channel ojieiu^d alouf^' the Clatsop beach and south shore,
past Point St. George and Tonf;ue Point.

Si(rveij of the United States exploring crperlitlnn, 1841. — This survey shows
but one opening' to tlie ocean, with the inside north and south channels cond»in-
iufj and ]>assiii<;- throuj^h it. Since Helcher's survey, the sou*^li sands had stretched
to the westward across the south channel as it existed in 1S.'!!», but the north chan-
nel was but little changed. It had several lumps with oidy four fathoms; its yen-
eral direction was the same ; it had at least a fathom more than the south chan-
nel, and retained its former shape and direction after i)assin<? inside the cape.

The shape aud position of the middle sands were nearly the same, but Its
eastern point had moved nearly half a mile to the northwest, }^ivin<4' dee]) water
where IJelcher placed the eastern part of Sand Island, while the western islet
occupied nearly the same position as formerly.

Tlie western end of the gjreat middle ground cast of Point Adams liad
scarcely changed.

The course in over the bar and through Queen's or South Channel was
straight for over six miles, until abreast of Point Adams, and then ran in the
same direction as in 1S31).

The United States sloop-of-war Peacock was lost on the north shoals, one and
one-half miles south by west from Cape Disap]»ointment.

Surveys 'of the United Statefi, — The fust examination of Columbia IJiver
entrance by the ITnitcd States Coast Survey was made in 1850. This survey
shows the following changes since 1S41.

The south sands, (now* called Clatsop Spit,) Avhich, in ISll, stretched six
miles to the Avestward from Point Adams, had been cut through about midway
between the ])oint aiul tlu'ir western extremity by a Avide channel, Avith deep
water, running south by Avest from Saml Island. But the bar of this channel AAas
not fairly opened, there being less than three fathoms on it. This channel Avas,
therefore, running at right angles to that of 1811, and OA'cr the spot marked bare
in 1830.

The north channel retained the same general features, but had moved to the
southward ; its southern part cutting away oA'er a mile of the west end of the
south saiuls of 1811. It still had OA'cr a fathom more Avater than the south chan-
nel. Inside of Cape Disappointment it retained the same p-eijcral direction as in
1841, but Avas more contracted.

The ^Fiddle Bank (now called ]\Iiddle Sands) was mncli changed, but its
northern i)art Avas similar to that of the previous surA'cys. The eastern \mnt had
moved north-northwest three-quarters of a mile since 1841. Sand Island had
much increased in size, and had ai^parently moA'cd with it.

COAST riLOT or WASlILNTiTON TEIII{ITOItY.

157

A loii"- sand bank had mado ont from Point Adams in si noitliwost direction
for over a mile. It was then, and is now, ealh'd Chitsop Spit.

Tiie western end oftlie j^reat iiiiddlo shoal eastward of Point Adams had been
cut away three-(iuarters ota mile.

t^unry of 1852. — This was the second examination nnide by the Coast Snr\ey,
and was founded on a complete triaiifiulation and the topof-raphy of Point A(hims,
Sand Island, and Cape l)isai)pointment. This survey developed the following
chaiifjes.

The new south channel had been fnlly cut out, and the bar had moved three-
quarters of a mile eastward, with a wider entrance and three feet more water.

The north channel had contracted to half its width at the bar, with its north-
ern line upon the line of 1850. The depth was not (piitc so great, but there was
still a fathom mon; water than on the South P»ar. The channel was not so straight
as in 1850, and a swash channel had formed southwest of the cape, across the XortU
Sands, (now called North Preakers.)

The Spit Pock (Chinook Spit) of 17!)2 was being re-develo])ed.

The iliddle Panic (now called Middle Sands) had increased in size; and Sand
Island had moved to the west-northwest over a (pmrter of a mile, giving eight
tathoms of water whore the beacon of 1850 stood. The bank", bare at low water,
which extended to the westward from the island, had split into two forks, or
spits. Compaicd with the surveys of 1839 and 18-11, we find that one part of
Sand Island retained the same position; bnt that a mile, stretching east by
south half south, had been completely cut away, and was crossed by the south
channel.

Clatsop Spit had changed its shape, tremling more to the westward.

The western end of the great middle shoal east of Point Adams occupied the
position given to it in 18;}!) and 18-11.

Although no re-survey was made by the Coast Survey until 18r»8, it nniy be
remarked that in 1857 the south bar was within less than a mile of the beach
south of Point Adams, and the channel ran nearly parallel with and about three-
quarters of a mile from the shore. The north channel was wide and straight.
In October 1857 the south channel closed up entirely.

Survey of 18G8. — This was the third examination made by the Coast Stnvey
of the bars and entrances to the river, an<l has been executed in the most thorough
nmnner, fiom a dei)th of lifteen fathoms outside the bars to Tlu-ee-trees Point,
ab(mt twenty-three miles above Cape Disappointment. This survey shows the fol-
lowing important changes :

First. The re-opening of the south channel with a fathom more water than
can be found in the north channel. The new channel entrance is now over two
miles wide between the south point of the Middle Sands, and the southwest side of
Clatsop Spit, and has over four fathoms in it. Its course is lirst north-northwest
f(n- three and a half miles, until abreast of tin; northwest point of Clatsop Si»it,
when it turns and runs northeast by east half east, between Point Adams ami

S 111

158

COAST riLOT OF WARTTTNGTON TERTMTOKY.

Sand Isliiiid, Joining tho north channel at a point whence Point Adams beai-H oa.st-
sontlieast.

The north channel is narrower, bnt hoMs pretty nuieh the same i)osili(tn as
in isr»7. r.nt only tliree and a halt' fathoms can be carried thronj^h it. In its nar-
rowest jtart it is over six hundred yards wide between the three-Cathom lines. Its
conrse is northeast from the entrance to IVaeock Spit, one and a quarter miles
south half east from Disappointment li<;'hthouse. It then runs du(^ north one and
one-eighth miles until abreast of Sulphur Spit, (wiu-re Belcher grounded,) which is
southeast by east half east tive-eighths of a mile from I)isai»pointment light-house,
and then tuins northeast three-(juarters east one ami three-eighths miles; after
which it skirts the mutheru side of Sand Island, and joins the south channel.

The ><'orth IJicakers, formerly called the North Sands, extend from Cape Dis-
apjiointment south-southwest two and three-eighths miles from the light-bouse. For
one mile and three-(puutcrs of this distance they had less than twelve feet of water,
aiul for live-eighths of a mile they were dry at low water.

Sand Island Avas found to have separated into two parts: the easternmost part
lying east-northeast and west-southwest three-quarters of a mile in lengtli; tho
westernmost part lying north-northeast and south-southwest also three-quarters of ii
mile long. At low watei- both parts were Joined, and the whole formed a bare-
sand-spit lying east-northeast and west-southwest two miles in length. From tho
west end of this sand-spit the Great Middle Sands extended flrst .southwest two
miles, with an average width of tive-eighths of a mile, and then south-southeast for
two miles and a quarter; the south point of the sands bearing south l)y east nearly
live miles from i';\\w ])isai»pointment light-house, and southwest by west four aiul
a half miles from northern extremity of Point Adams. Clatsop Spit extended
west one-(iuarter north from Point Adams to a distance of two and three-quarters
miles, and was composed of several spits, bare at low water, which are surrounded
by masses of breakers; the spit is two and a half miles wide, in a northeast and
southwest direction, at a distance of one and a <piarter miles from JNtint Adams;
from its n(uthwi'st point to the east end of the Jliddle Sands is exactly one mile
between the lines of three fathoms; this is the narrowest part of the South Chan-
nel.

A swash-channel, with eight feet of water, which runs close to the northwest
side of Point Adams, was found to have nearly cut across Clatsop Spit, from its
north to south side, and no doubt by this time has been cut completely through;
its direction is almost exactly north and scmth.

S]nt liar (now called C'hiuook Spit) has a general direction from Chinook
Point west half north five and a half miles; and the line of three fathoms from
Chinook Point runs tirst Avest half north for five miles, and then gradually turns
to the south and west and forms the extreme point of the shoal nearly a half mile
east three-quarters south from Cape Disappointment light-house ; at this point the
north chaniu'l is barely four hundred yards wide between the three-fathom lines;
this is its narrowest i)art. Mid-way between Chinook Point and Cape I)isapj)oint-

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON Ti:Ul{lTOllY.

159

lu'ou^li ;

ment tlio spit is dry at low water for one mile aiul a (inarter of its Iciijjftli, and in
many otlier places the extreme low tides also leave it l»are.

A\'e tind three distinct eliaiiiiels t'ornied after we pass Sand island; the lirst
close nnder the nortii sliore for alxMit seven miles in an east-northeast direction,
when it cats across the Great ]\li(hlle liaidv in a siudhwest l>y sonth direction, and
joins the nnd-way channel about two nules west of Tonj^ue Toint; thron^h tiiis
channel littecn feet can be carried at mean low water, its shoalest part beinjj; where
it crosses the Great ]\li(ldle Bank. The add- way ehaniu'l occupies nearly the middle
of the river; it runs from tlu' point of Junction of the north and south channels,
east one-(iuarter south four miles, and then turns and runs about east by north
half north, joining the south channel at Tonjjue Point; its narrowest part is north-
northwest of Smith's Point, wliore it is only ouc-oiyhth of a nule wide between the
three-fathom lines. Tiiis channel cuts across the Great Middhi Bank in an east
by north direction, about one and three-cpnirters of a nnle from its western ejid,
and over three fathoms of water maybe carried through it at luean low watei".

The south channel skirts the north side of Point Adams, running;' lirst in an
east by south half south direction live miles to Toni;ue P>ar, when it tnriis about
and runs east-northeast across the mouth of Young's Bay, and close to Snath's Point
to Astoria. From Astoria the channel, although somewhat crooked, has a general
dinu'tiou northeast to Tongue INjint, still keeping close to the ; .»uth shore of the
river; at Tongue I'oint it Joins the other two channels. At Tongue I'oint tlie
channel again <livides into three parts, the most northern of which runs to the
northeast and then to the eastward, and Joins the channel umler the north shore at
Eocky Knoll. Thirteen feet nniy be carried through this chaniu'l to Kocky Knoll;
but extensive tlats, across which only seven feet at low water can be carried, sep-
arate it from the Woody Island Channel.

The nuddle fork, called the Woody Island Channel, has a general course about
northeast by east from Tongue Point, about three ami three-(iuarters nules, where
it again divides into two chauuelsj which are separated by a mass of sand, bare at
low Avater.

The north fork is called Ilocky Knoll Channel. The south fork retains the
general name, "Woody Island Channel.'' The general course of Woody Island
Channel, from the point where Ilocky Knoll Channel Joins it, is about northeast
to Woody Island, live miles ; and then the channels all uniting in one, hug the
north shore of the river to Three-trees Point.

Thus we see that the survey of 18(58 shows an immense middle bank, begin-
lung tluee-cpuirters of a iuile to the west of Woody Island and extending to within
three-quarters of a mile of Point Adams, a distance of nearly sixteen miles ; but
that this great extent of shoal water is cut up by many slues and channels, the
main ones of which beginning from the west are — First, the north ciumnel, whicli,
after skirting the north shore, passed Chinook Point and Point Ellice, cuts across
the Great Middle Banks, six miles from its west end. Second, the nud-way
channel, which <!uts across the bank about three and a half nules to the west of

100

COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TKllKITORY.

iKntli cliniiiicl, iiiid one iiinl a liiilf Jiiil»>.s from tlio west end of the bmik. Third,
tlif iioi'tli fork of tlic cliaiMM-l :it Tongue Point, wliirii cnts across tlic Itank (list in
a iiortlirast and tli<-n in an cast dirrction, \vli<-n it joins t]n> ciiiinncl on( ot'(ira,v's
Hay, and liotii to;;<'tlu'r form a Inoad and deep clianm-i, wliicji, skiiliny tlu' noitii
.'•lion' of the river, Hepariites the noitli side of the bank from the shore, and joins
tlie ii\vi\t main channel at the east end of the bank, three-qimrters of a mile to the
west of .Jim Crow I'oint. Fonrtli, the in)rth fork of the Woody Jslaiid (Channel,
called Ivocky Knoll Channel, whicli cats across the south side of the bank in uii
east and west direction, and separates from the main Itody of the bank a mass of
sand two miles long, and a half mile wide, a large portion of which is bare at low
water.

It maybe here n^marked that the Great ^liddle IJank, through a great portion
of its length, is full of dry sand Mats, some of which aro of great extent, being
over two and a half miles in length.

These are the main changes developed by the survey of 1S(J8.

SAILINU DIRKCTIONS.

To enter hy the South Channel. — Dring Cape Disapi)ointment light-house to
bear north by west one-quarter west, and steer for it. This course will bring you
t(» the Outer lia. buoy, which is ])laced in twelve fathoms, one and one-eighth
miles southeast by south from the stmthern point of the ^Fiddle Sands. When up
with this buoy, wl.icth you may pass close to on either hand, steer north for three
and a quarter miles to the red buoy on the west end of Clatsop Spit. Give this
buoy a berth to starboard of one hundred and fifty yards, ami when abreast of it
steer northeast by north until the Fort Stevens llag-stalf on Foiut Adams bears
east-southeast. Then steer east one-<prarter north until the same tlag-statf bears
southeast by south tliree-cpiarters south, when steer southeast one-(iuarter east
until the ilag-stalf bears southwest three-quarters west. Ni>w steer east throe-
qimrters scmth, two and three-eight lis miles, until you bring Point Ellictt to bear
north, when you will see a black buoy three-quarters of i mile northeast tliree-
<inarters east of you. Now you must steer iiortheatit by east three-quarters east to
Astoria, where you may conu*, to anchor otf xistor P-ii''., in from seven to eight
fathoms; or, by rounding the jioint to the front of the town, you may anchor in.
from four to six fathoms in the bight. But if bouud up the river, the best direc-
tiou that can be given is to take a pilot at Astoria.

To enter Muhcuy Channel. — AVhen, on your east one-quarter north course in
South Channel, Fort Stevens liag-staft" bears southeast by south three-(piarters
south, steer northeast by east half east, tliree-(iuarters of a mile, until the
same Hag stalf bears south one-(|uarter west, Avhen you must steer east for two
and three-iiuarters miles until the west end of Smith's Point bears southeast
one quarter east. Now steer east by north half north, three miles, until Cape
Broughton bears north three-quarters east. Then steer northeast by east
lialf east to Tongue Point. Here you must take a pilot.

Ik. Third,
ink first ill
( <»t' (i ray's
the iMirtli
, iiiid Joins
iiiil<> to the
(I (.'hannel,
Kink in an
: a iiiasa of
)aie at low

'at portion
tent, being

it-house to

bring- you
one-eighth

When up
1 1 for three

CJive this
ireast of it
lams bears
itatt" bears
arter east
;ast three-
et to bear
ast three-
ei's east to
II to eiglit

anchor iu
best (lirec-

course in
e-ipiarters
until the
St for two
southeast
lutil Cape
by east

COAST PILOT OK WASIIIMJTON TKHUITOUV. 1(U

To enter In/ the North Channel. — Hring Cape l)isai»i»ointiiieiit lighthouse to
Itear nortli by east three-ipiarters east, and steer lor it until you are in three and
a half fathoms hard sand, and about two and a lialf ntilcs from the cape. Vou
will then lie about midway between tlie Middle Sands on the east and the Xorth
lireakers on tiie west, and must steer iiortiieast one and one-tiiird miles to the
blaek buoy olf Peaeoek Spit; whieh leavi? on the port haml (»ne hundred and lifty
yards, and .steer north by ea.st one-third east, one and one ei;.;htii miles, for the
blaek buoy oil the southwest end uf Chinook Siiit. When within three eighths of
a mile of this buoy, and exaetly abreast of tlie red buoy on Sul|)hur Spit, steer
nortiieast three (piartcrs east, for tiie second black buoy on CiiiiMtok Spit, which
leave on tin; port hand two liundred yards oil'. Now steer east l»y south, four and
a half miles, until tiie prie.><t's house on Ciiinook Point bears north-nortlieast, wiieii
you may steer nortiieast Ity east half I'ast, until Tongue's Point licars east l»y
south, when you may cross tlie (Jieat Middle iJank into midway cbaiinei by
.steering southeast by east, two miles, until Tongue Point bears <'ast iiy iiortii three-
quarters nortii. Now steer nortiieast by east half east, and pass Tongue
Point, alt«'r wliieii you up; 1 taice a pilot.

But if bound to Astoria, .stop your east by south course wlieii Fort Stevens
llag-statf bears southeast by .south three-quarters soiitli, and steer for it until tiie
jniest's house on Chinook Point bear.s northeast one-quarter ea.st, wiien you will l)o
in eigiit fathoms, and must steer southeast one-quarter east, and follow tiie direc-
tions given for tlie .s(uitii channel.

All strangers should take a river pilot at Astoria or Tongue Point.

SUOALWATEU BAY.

The bold cllft's of Cape Disappointment, after extending about three miUss
northward, change suddenly to a low, broad, sandy beaiili, running nortli by west
half west, eighteen miles, in nearly a straight line to the soutiiern point of tiio
entrance to Slioalwater Bay. A mile and a (piarter bi'hind tliis beach lies tiio
southern arm of the bay. Its waters reach witliin a mile or two of the ncuth side
of the cape, and tlie portage from them to the Wappalooehe, emptying into P>aker'.s
Bay, is .said to l)e about a mile long, and always use<l by tlie Indians and scttler.s.
The peninsula thus formed is covered witli trees and a dense undergrowtli of
bushes. Within half a mile of its extremity it becomes very low and sandy, and
has a covering of eoar.se gra.ss, but no trees. Tliis point was called Low Point by
Meares, iu July 17S8. On the recent Coast Survey charts it is named Leadbetter
Point. The Indian designation is Cliik-lis-ilh. Its ap])roximate geographical
position, as determined by the Coast Survey, is :

Latitude 10 30 45 north.

Longitude 124 00 lo west.

/(. lit. H.

Or, iu time 8 10 ((.5.0

The computed magnetic variation, 20° 35' east, July 1851, with a yearly in-
crease of 1'.
21*

1G2

COAST riLOT or AVASHINCiTON TERRITOKY.

CAPE SIIOALWATER.

From Loadbotfor Point the north ('iii)o boars northwest by north two-thirds
north, live, jind a half miles distant. il.>M' a mile of the eajx' is low, sandy, ind
destitntei of trees, but sonu; tolerably hi^h land eovj red with wood lises immedi-
ately behind it, bein^' the only elevated j;ronnd between Cape Disappointment
and Point Grenville th \t approaches the shore lino. On account of this ibrniation
of the point it has been said that the entrance resembles that of Columbia Kiver ;
but wo have been unable to detec^t any resemblance after passin<^ near it several
times. The isolated position of C ipe Disappointment, and the seaward face of
its bold elitls witlutut trevs, form a peculiar feature. This, with Scarbctrouf'h Hill,
])artly bare, lyinj? live or six miles east of it, the hijih numntains inland, and, in
clear weather, the beautifn! snow-i»eak of Mount St. ITelens, have no counterparts
at Cape Shoalwater, and should renjove all doubt in regard to goueral resem-
blance.

Seven miles southwest th"oo-quartorH west, Tebonkoff gives soundings in six-
teen fathoms, and a line of soundings of same dei»th along the coast to a position
southwest three-ciuaricis west, ten miles from Point Hanson.

The point was named Ca[)e Shoalwater, and placed appioximately in latitude
4G° 47' by ^Nleares, in July 17.SS. In ITiL', Vancouver assigned to it tlic latitnde
of 40° 40'. It was viewed from the north side of Cape Disappointment by Lewis
ajid Clarke in 180"), and calied Point Lewis, but is souu'times known as Toke Point,
from the name of an old Indian chief living h»>' >• i;i 18,">4. The Indian name of the
point is Quahptsum.

LIGlIT-UOliSE AT CAPE SHOAL WATEK.

The lighthouse at the north point of the entrance to Shoalwater liay is a
structure consisting (»f a keeper's dwelling, with a tower rising through it and sur-
mounted by an iron lantern, painted nd. Its height is f(uty-one and a lialf feet
above the grouiul, and about eiylity-severi feet abeve the mean level of the sea.
The dwe'ling and tower are plastered and whitewashed, and situaved about a mile
from the extremity of the cape. The illuminating apparatus is of the foiirtlt or-
der of Fresnel, shows afid-ed n-hitc light varied by Jitni/ien, and should be seen from
a height of —

10 feet at a distance of 14| miles.

20 foot at a distance of 1(» miles.

30 feet at a distance of 17 miles.
It was first exhibited on the tirst of October 1858, and shows from sunset to
sunrise. The approximate geographical position of the light, as determined by
the Coast Survey, is :

e / /I

Latitude Hi 44 1 1 north.

Longitude VJi Oli 1.'4 west.

/(. III. H.

Or, in time 8 l(i 09.0.

COAST PILOT OP WASHINGTON TERKITORY.

103

Tliis lifjlit was disoontiniied Soptcmbcr 1, 1859, and rolifrhtfd in tlio oarly part
o:' July ISUl.

Tlu" topogiapliy of the vicinity has not been executed.

ENTRANCE TO SIIOALWATEU BAY.

Tlieie ha . ing been no survey of Slioalwater Bay previous to the prebnunary
one of tiie Coast Survey in 1852, aid the coniph'tion of it in iHo't, it is impossible
to state what clian'-es liave taken .)la('C. .Tudjfinj;- by the ehaufjes of the riuni-
boldt, UniiHiuah, and Columbia Bars, we should eoiu-buh that similar elU-cts take
l>la<'e here. In less heavy weather than would cause th<! sea to break on the
Columbia Uiver bars, it lueaks hei'c with fury quite across the entrance. This
description ajiplies to 18.")L'. Charts have been published by the Coast Survey of
the resi)ective dates already mentioned.

Pour niih's off" the entrance, a depth often fathoms is found, and v.iien well
off' shore, a high, d(nible-peaked mountain shows to the eastward, well inland.
Alearcs noticed it, and placed it ir latitude kiP .'{(»', (piite close to the coast, desig-
nating it as Saddle .Alountain, a name it still retains, although one of the same
name is Ibuiid southeast of Point Adams.

In IS.")*"! there were two channels, denominated from their imsition the north
and south channels, with a large shoal called the Middle Sands lying between
them, and partly outside of the line joining the two points.

The bar at the .-outli channel had four fathoms of v.ater upOJi it, was a mile
wide, an<l lay two iiilcs oft' the bcaclv south of Lcadlxtter Point, with the noith-
ernmost trees l)earing northeast l>y east. Punning in on this line a vessel shoaled
her water from ten fathoms three miles otf siiore, lO lour fathoms t"- ) iiides oft";
then giadually deepened it to tive fathoms, when she hauled close up undc r the
point of breakers nmtlnvard of her, and about half a mile distant : ran along in
from six to seven fathoms until 'ibreast of the low grassy point, when the course
of tne channel was north by west half west for one and one-half miles, with
from eight to ten fatlioir:s, hard bottom, its (mtline being well nuirked by the
breakers outside. I'rom theiu'e a course northeast by north for two miles led to
eighteen latlumis, ami over a mile inside the line Joining Leadbetter PcHnt and
Cape Shualwater, the western trees on Leadbetter Point bearing south one-half
east, three and thre(>-(piarters jniles distant. AVheii the tide was low, sand-bars
and tlats showed on bot'- Hands, one directly ahead ; the l>road, deep channel to
the southeast distinctly marked by bare patches on either side, and a naiTow, deep
channel to the northwest ninning into the north channel. Prom the last position
the western trees on Leadbetter Point bore south, di.ttant four miles. Hie gneater
body of water passed throiigh tliis channel, and the current ran very strong. In
summer, with a northwester blowing, it was a dead beat after passing the bar, and
m some places the channel was less than half a mile wide between the three-
fathom lines. Coasters did not enter it exeeitt with a southerly wind, and ahvayH.

164

COAST PILOT OF WAST.r.vClTON TEKUITOHY.

I)irk»Ml out tlu' I'liiiiuu'l Iroin :.iort. In suniiiior they had a loadiiif; wind ont. and
istai't«'(l on the (irst o*' liic rbb.

Tlio bar • i tlio north i-Iianncl had about tlirco and a quarter fathoms upon
it, ai';l bore southwest by south one-ijuarter soutli, three miles I'rom the souflu'ru
extrenuty of Cape iShoalwater. It was about a mik^ in extent within the three-
fathom Hue.

In makiufi" the bay from tlu> southward in sunun<'r the directions were to work
to the northward of Cape Shoahvater, tluMi run in and follow the shore outsith' of
the breakers in six or seven fathoms, f^iadually ai)proa(*liin<i them, and deereasiuff
the depth to four and a half and four fathoms, when the .southern side of the
elevated jjround of the eape bore northeast by north half north. Then head
ui> as near that eimrse as ])ossible, en-ssinj;' the bar in tliice and a «|uarter
fathoms, and continuinfj" in that depth for at least ai mile and a ((uarter, takinj;
eare not to deerease it on either hand. Ke«'it under the breakers <»n the north side
in from iive to seven fathoms, hard bottom, and increase tlie de|)th to tw«'lve well
inside the point, when i!s southern extremity should bear northwest half west,
distant one and a half miles. If it was low water .sand-baidis showed in dilferent
directions, and the chaiuiels were tolerably well marked thereby.

The invariable jtractice of vessels enteriu}; was to .seek out the channel from
the mast-head. In calm weather the channels must be known, or a pilot employed
if one is to be found. There are buoys to mark the channels, but their positions
are properly chan;ved by <^Iu' lifiht-lnuise authorities to suit the chanj;-es of the
channels, .so that no directions can be {>fiven about them.

The north bar bore northwest by north two-thirds nortli from the south bar,
distant live miles.

The ^Middle t>aiuls lay between the two channels. The southern tail was
southwest oiH' and three (piarters miles from Leadbetter Point, ran northwest by
north two-thirds n*)rth for two and one-(iuarter miles, then north-northeast two
and a quarter jniles. and «>ast ncHtheast one and a half miles, with an average
width ot one and a quarter miles. One mile cmtside of it soundinjis are found in
sevei tii<homs.

This bay, as its name imjdies, is so full of shoals that at low tides alxuit one-
half of its area is laid bare, (lood but narrow chainiels are found throu<;hout its
extent, but no direction can be jiivt'ii tor running them. AVithout a knowledj-e of
them, or w ithout a i)ilot, follow them only at low water. The currents then run
w ith {ii'cat velocity, and it is very dilUcult and frequently impossible to keep a
eour.se afiainst them. The arm of the bay stretching,' s(»uthward towaid IJaker's
Bay is lifteen miles hnij;' from Leadbetter I'oint, with an averaf-'e width of
not less than three and one-hulf niih's, whilst the upjier jtortion stretches to the
northeast for nine miles to the north of the AVhil-a-i)aii River, reckoning from iho
middle of tlie lin«\|OMiinfi- Cai)e Shoahvater and Leadbetter Point.

The principal .stream enijttying into the bay is the V.hil a-]»ah, at its nor)')
cast part. At about nine mdes from Cape Shoahvater it is less thai> a quarter >f

COAST PILOT OF WASniXGTON TJ^RHITOJIY.

1(35

a milo wide, with low, swampy banks and stoop blufls on oaoli side about a inil«^
and a liaira])iirt.

Tlio niontli of tho I'abix, oi' Copabix, lios five niilos northeast lialf oast
from Loadbottor I'oint. It is half a uuUt wido at its mouth, (•onTra<'ts v(My niuoh
in two niih'S, and is b(U'dered by niarslios, with numerous sbios running through
tliom.

Tlio Nasal ontors about olovon milos south from tlio Pabix, and abroast of tho
nnddl(> of Lonj,' Island. It has ovor twonty foot wator at its mouth, with bluft'
banks for sonic distanoo, until it bo<j[iiis to oxjiand, when it is bonlorod by tlats.

Sovoral sticanis o]K'n from tho north sido of tin* bay. Ono of tiioso, tho Noco-
manohi', nc.ir tlio Whil-apah, has six foot in the main channol, and shows one and
ono-half milos wido at his'h tide.

There are three islands in the bay. Pino Island, about ono and a half miles
northwest by noith oil" the mouth of the Palux, is a small sand islet of only four or
five aoros in ex'^^iit, and oeoupied by oyslormon. It is near the ohannol and
ystor bods whioh strot<di ihv a ooui)le of miles to the north-northeast of it. The
Indian name of this island is Nass-too. The north end of Lonjj: Island is oif>ht
milos from liOadbottor Point. This island runs irrojiularly about southeast for six
miles, and has an aveiajic widtli of ono and a half miles. It is eovered with a
dense forest of lir and under};Towth. Oiu^ milo south-southeast of Loiifj Island is
a very small ish't oallod Ivoiiiid Island, of only a few aoros in extent, eovon-d with
Avood and bushes. The shores of the bay, oxoojit on the j)oiiinsn!a, are mostly
(!om]iosod of low, perpendicular clitVs of a sandy clay, in which are Virata of recent
fossil shells and tho renmins of trees. Whore the faces of tho olilfs are not washed
by the waters of the bay, they slope fi'ontly, and have a small {>rassy shore at their
base.

No'.ilioast throo-quartors north, distant six milos from Loadbottor Point,
is a sli.iii', narrow clitf, sixty foot hiyli, makiii<;' out into tho bay, which is woai'iiig
it : u »> :; ;'; has exposed many larj;,e basaltic bouUb'rs. No other place on the
ba, pnsc;jt^hisgoolop:iral feature.

TUv rfiiiisula is a b»ng, tlat, marshy, and sandy ])lain, elevated but a few foot
above v-xb itvol of tho sea, and covered, like the entire surface of this country,
Av "^ a < 'Use i^nowth of ji'iyantic forest trees, piincipall,- s])ruoe, lir, and cedar,
witii a fow si»ecimeiis of maple, ash, and black abler. The. spruce frofiuontly
attains a diac < i of eight feet. The Indian naii'o of tb'. peninsida is Teo-ehoots.

The shoals ■< covered with shell fish, among which tho oyster is tho most
abundant, ami the ])rinoipal arti('le of exi)ort. They are small, and have a oop-
peiv taste. Codfish and halibut al>ound ; sturgeon, sai<l to be of good quality, are
lik'io nd salmon of several varieties and excellent flavor exist in infinite num-
Ixav-. In spring vast shoals of small herring enter the bay. In winter wild fowl
are iunumorablo, but those have l)oen made shy by the bail shooting of the
Indians. Hlack and white swan, goose, mallards, canvas-backs, vS:c., always
ivward the oxi>erieneed sportsman.

166

COAST riLOT OP WASHINGTON TEEEITORY.

This 1 ay w;is discoverod, bnt not entered, by Lieutenant John ^feares Jnly 5,
17.SS, in the Felice, when proceeding in search of the Kio de San lloquo of
lleceta.

It is ap'^^erted by settlers here that boats, canors, &c., which have broken
adrift and gone out of the bay, have in every instance been found on the beach
north of the entrance, and generally between it and Gray's Harbor.

From Cape Slioalwatcr to Point Hanson, the southern side of the entrance to
Gray's Ilarl'or, the distance is thirteen and a half miles, and the hard ocean
sand-bench furnishes an excellent road that can be traveled at half tide by
wagons. The slightly elevated sandy bank is level, covered with coarse grass, and
free from timber for nearly half a mile back and to within two miles of the harbor.
Back of this and parallel with the coast is a cranberry meadow six miles in length,
and separated by a narrow belt of scrubby fir. This meadow is drained by two
small rivulets forcing their way thro! ,~ •'• sand to the ocean. San Francisco is
the market for the cranberries, whicu gathered by Indians and carried to

Slioalwatcr Bay and Gray's Harbor. LauU otter and beaver have their homes
around the meadows and small streams.

gray's iiabbor.

The entrance to the bay is formed by Point Hanson on the south, and tiie
southern point of Eld Island on the north. The northern end of this island is
connected with the outer part of Point Brown at low water, but at high tide the
beachet^ are one-quarter of a mile apart. The south end of the island lies north-
west by west one-quarter Avest one and five-eighths miles from Point Hanson ; its
length is one and three-fourths miles, and direction northwest half west, with a
breadth of two to four hundred yards. Half-way between I'oint Hanson and the
islaiul lies the northeast end of a shoal or middk '.rouiul, bare at low water, and
stretchiug south by west three-eighths west for one and three-quarters miles, with
an average breadth of three-eighths of a mile. Between the northeast end of this
shoal and the south end of Eld Island passes the channel, with a width of less
than five-eighths of a mile, and a depth of sixteen fatluMus. In June 1807, the
channel thence ran nearly southwest for two and three-quarters miles to the bar,
which had twenty-five feet of water, and lay west by south one-quarter south
three and a half ndles from the Fort Chehalis flagstaff, half a mile south of the
extremity of Point Hanson, and southwest half south two and three-quarters miles
from the south point of Eld Island. At that time the channel was straight and
marked by buoys. The buoy ( tside the bar was in thirty-nine feet of water, and
the first one inside the bar in tliirty feet of water, bearing northeast half east one
and a ([uarter miles from the former. The eighteenfathom line was half a mile
southward of the lino of buoys and parallel with it. The outer buoy was west by
south three-quarters sontli, three and seven-eighths miles from Fort Chehalis Hag-
stall'. The course inside these buoys was northeast half east to the narniwest
part of the ciiannel, passing a buoy on tlie port Innul about half a mile south ot

COAST PILOT or WASHINGTON TEEllITOEY. 167

Eld Island, in eighteen feet of water. Inside Eld Island a fourth buoy, in
eighteen feet of water, marked the southeast part of shoal otf the island, and one
aiul a quarter miles east by north half north from this buoy was a fifth buoy on the
edge of the south shoals, in eighteen feet water. But the positions of the buoys
marking the entrance are changed by the light-house authorities to corresi)oud to
the changes of the bar and channel.

It is unsafe to attempt entering this bay w Ithout a pilot.

The secondary astronomical station of the United States Coast Survey is on
the extremity of the fast land of Point Hanson, within ten feet of the marsh.
From it the geographical position of Fort Chehalis llaj-staff has been determined,
as follows :

L^vtitude 4G 53 43.7 north.

Longitude 12-4 00 53.8 west.

Or, in time 8 10 27.6

TliC computed magnetic variation for December 1862, is 20° 53' east, with an
increase of 1' annually.

Ten miles southwest three-quarters west from Point Hanson Tebeukolf gives
soundings in sixteen fathoms, and has a line of soundings of the same depth down
the coast to a i)osition seven miles southwest three-quarters west from Capo
Shoalwater. Seventeen miles west from Point Hanson he has a sounding in forty-
three fathoms.

Tides. — The corrected establis'iment or mean interval between the time of the
moon's transit and the time of liigh water is 12/i. 12m., and the diflerence between
the greatest and least intervals is Ih. 52/h. The mean '-ise and fall of tides is
approximately 5.S feet. The average dift'erence in height of the morning and after-
noon tides of the same day is 1.5 feet for high water and 2.7 feet for low water ;
and when the moon's declination is gi'eatest these tigiu-es are, res^iectively, 2.2 feet
and 4.1 feet. The average difference in height between the higher high and lower
low tides of the same day is 8.0 feet ; and when the moon's declination is greatest,
9.0 feet.

The higher high tide iu twenty-four hours occurs about 11/*. 39)h. after the
moon's upper transit, (southing,) wheu the declination is north, and about ilm.
befcre that ti'ansit wheu the declination is south. The lowest low water occurs
about seven hours after the highest high water.

The following accounts of the dilferent examiiuitions of the Gray's Harbor
entrance exhibit the marked changes which it has undergone :

At the time of Whidbey's survey, under the orders of Vancouver, in 17!)2, a
bar existed off the entrance, having the following position : From Point Hanson,
southwest by west half west, three and a half miles distant, and from Point
IJrown, southwest by south one-quarter south, four miles distant. He does not give
the depth of water on the bar in his chart, but in the narrative states it to be
three fathoms. From this bar the channel was a mile wide, and straight to the

' .1

■ v; ,1.

168

COAST riLOT OF AV.VSIIJMGTON TERKITOKY.

eutranoe betwoon the points, was woU inarkod by the broiikors, and liad tVoiu four
to ten fathoiiis in it until nearly abreast of the i>oint>. where it was contracted to
half a mile, and the depf' ::!creased to fourteen fatlioins. Then it opened sud-
denly to both points, with from three to six fatlutms between them. The course
in, over the bar and throuj^h niidchannel, was northeast one-quarter noith for three
ami a (piurter miles to between the points, with two low sand islands in ranjje on
the eourst', und six and a half nules fr«)m the bar. A narrow channel existed on
either side of these islands towards theChehalis; the southern channel having
from three to four fathoms, and that on the north side live or six.

Whidbey believed the bar to be shifting, there being a very ap])arent differ-
ence iu the channel between the times of his arrival and departure, when it
seemed to be wider and shoaler. A drj' sand bank which lay bare near their
anchorage on the fust evening, on the north side of the channel, was, at his
departure, entirely washed away by the violence of the sea, which had broken
incessantly upon the shoals and bar.

In the indentation southeast of Point Hanson lay an island with a channel on
either side, but that on tlie west was the better. Both led to the mouth of a small
stream coming in from the east, lie also gives a four-fathom channel on the east
side of Point Brown Peninsula, and surveyed it two miles up.

In 18-11, in the survey by the United States exploring expedition, we find no
island in the middle of the bay, nor any e."st of Point Ilanson, but a large one one
and three-quarters miles long by half a mile wide in the middle of the entrance,
and couuected by a shoal w ith Point Brown, while the channel ran between the
island and the southern point. The bar bore southwest two and a <piarter miles
from Point Brown, ami west two and a 'lalf miles from J'oint Hanson,' with a
depth of about three fathoms. This posititm show s that the bar had moved nortli
hy east no less than two miles. According to that survey, the course for crossing
the bar was to bring Point Hanson to bear east and run for it, the channel being
straight.

From a study of the map of that survey we are satisfied that the soundings
were carriiid outward to the inner edge of the bar, and not across it, the work
being probably stopped by the breakers.

In 18(50 the surveying brig Fauntleroy, drawing ten feet of water, lay off the
bar several days, the heavy breakers along the whole shoal allowing no clue to
the bar, and the depth of water upon it being unknown. At a comparatively
smooth time the bar was sounded with a boat and the vessel followed, crossing on
the last quarter of the ebb with two and a half fathoms. In 1861 the entrance
was reported tolerably good, and comparing favorably with the other bar harbors
north of San Francisco. In June 1802 the channel Avas not straight, but the sea-
ward end curved to the northward of west. The bar had sixteen feet of water
upon it, and was five hundred and fifty yards across between the outer and inner
three-fathom lines. From Fort Chehalis tlag-stalf it bore west three-quarters
north, distant four and a third miles ; from the south end of Eld Island west by

■^i.

COAST PILOT OF WASHlNCiTON TEKKITOKY.

101)

soiitli oiu'i'iglitli south, distant two and tliree-qiiaitors miles; from Point Brown,
seen over HUl Isiand, southwest lialf west; and from Point Hanson, directly west.

In ISCO, while the United States surveying- vessel was lyinj;- olf the bar, a cur-
rent running- to the northward, at the rate of one and a half mile per hour, was
distinctly noticed. Immediately olf the harbor this current strikes the ebb current
of the bay, and detiects the nniss of water to the northward. With the tlood cur-
rent the mass of water sets over the south sands. It is estinnited that the off-
shore current runs across the bar at an averajte rate of three miles.

The Indians use a small swash channel under Point lirown, to avoid crossing
the bar.

The peninsuhi terminated by Point Hanson is about three-quarters of a mile
in breadth and three and a half miles lonji, and covered with fir to within half a
mile of the point, which is a low sand spit embraciuf^ a small marsh. The general
direction of the ]>eninsula is northwest, and inside of it lies South Bay, with a width
of half a mile, atlbrdinff the safest, and, in fact, the only safe anchorage near the
entrance. More than half of this bay is occui)ied by nuul tiats. To secure the
best position heie, bring the northernmost trees on I'oint Hanson to bear south
71^ west, distant three-quarters of a mile, and au(;hor in the channel in three and
a half fathoms. This jjosition places the vessel out of the intiuence of the south
channel running to the Chehalis.

The anchorage under Point Brown is not only uucomfoitable but unsafe to a
vessel without heavy ground tackle. At this point there is no prote<'tion against
the full sweep of the lu'avy sununer winds, which, blowing at times counter to the
strong currents in the bay, cause a very disagreeable short sea. Another circum-
stance tends to render this anchorage unsafe: between Point Hanson and Kid
Island lies the middle shoal, which, l»eing bare at low watei', confines the waters
ti> a narrow regular channel; but when the tide rises sutficiently to cover this
shoal the confiicting currents cause a heavy overfall, esjK'cially (Ui the large tides,
strong enough to tear a vessel from her anchors. This hai)pened to the surveying
brig in May ISCiO.

The peniusida, terminated by Point Brown, is about a mile in breadth and
fou' nd a half miles long; its general direction is southeast by south. The bay
shore is covered with fir. The outer is the shore commenceuu'nt of a sand waste,
stretching towards the Copalis Kiver. Between the timber and this waste is a
large pond or lagoon, and outside of that the sand is covered with coarse beach
grass and stunted lupin bushes, and cut up Avith the tracks of bears, cougars,
wolves, elk, &c. From the north eml of l-^ld Islaiul a body of water stretches into
the sand waste parallel and near the ocean beach for about a mile. Close luiiler
the bay shore (»f this peniusida runs a narrow crooked channel, which Whidbey
surveyed for two miles, and in which he gives four fathoms.

From Point Hanson the mouth of the Chehalis River bears nintheast five-
eighths east, distant twelve miles; and this course is the general direction of the

^^^5^

■■jF

170

COAST PILOT OF WABIIINCJTON THKIUTORY.

soutlioast side of tlie bay, except the indentation fonninf; South Bay. Tlie first
bliifV inside the point is Stoarns,* bearing,' nortlieast by east, and distant five and a
half miles. Around the soutlnvest side of tliis bluff «'onies .Tohn's lliver. Within
.1 mile and a half of the mouth of the Chehalia the Xeuskah'l enters, cominy from
the s(mtheast.

From Point Brown, Point Newt lies north 3!)o east, distant four and three-
quarters miles, and having oft" it two rocks, now called Ned's llocks, and marked
on AVhidbey's (ihart.

Bmekenridffe Bluff* commences about three-quarters of a mile east of Point
New, and extends three miles eastward to the low land bordering the Iloquiamts
lliver. From Point New the shore-liiui runs nearly straight to the Chehalis, dis-
tant eight miles, and the point of Stearns Bluft' lies south 43° east, distant four
and a (piarter miles.

To the north-northwest of the line Joining Points New and Brown lies North
Bay, consisting of an imnieiise mud flat, bare at low water, and having an area of
twenty-two square miles. At the head of it lies Saddle llill. In the stretch of
four miles northwest of Point New are three small streams, called the Typso, Chi-
nois, and Ilumtolapy, emptying into North Bay. They work narrow crooked
channels through the nuid flats, but at low water there is not sutticient depth to
carry a whaleboat through them.

By measurement we find that more than nine-tenths of Gray's Harbor is bai'e
at low Avater. Inside of the entrance the area of the surface of the water, bounded
by the flats, bare at low tide, is only four and a half square miles. This will give
a fair idea of the extent of the harbor. Through the flats lying between this
available space and the Chehalis run two channels. The northern commences at
a i)oint two miles east-northeast from Point Brown, is the only available one, and
would require buoying out for its entire length. F(H" about six mih^s, it is three-
eighths of a mile wide, with a depth of four fathoms. The south channel com-
mences just inside Point IlauHon, and is very contracted and shallow. The flats
are so extensive, aftd the uuid so soft in places, that it is inq)ossible to reach the
shore, except at high tides. This fact has retarded the development of the trade
in lumber, although the shores are heavily tind)ered.

The trade of the bay is in carrying the supjilies needed by a f(^w settlers, and
by the small military post on the Chehalis. Dimng seven months in 1800, this
reached one huiulred and twenty-flve tons.

In August 18G-1: the United States Iiulian agent reported the discovery of
gold at Chehalis Point.

The ChehaJin Ixirer has been navigated by a small steamboat for twenty mil(>s,
to the mouth of the Latsop, which (;omes from the northward. This is the head
of ti(h>-wif'.'r; but enterprise would rench'r the river navigable much higher.

"Niiinptl by the Uniti'd States exploring expedition, lrt41.
t Named by Wliidbey in I'M.

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TKIIKITOKY.

171

Boats have come from tlie bend of the Chehalis, at the mouth of tlie Skookuiu-
ehuck, near the road i>a.s.siii}>- from the Cowlitz Itiver to ru^jct Souiiil. Tlie coun-
try behind the bay ai)iR'ar.s low and tlat, and well watered by the Cholialis and
tributaries, which drain a section well timbered, and dotted with many small
prairies aud bottom lands.

In the winter of lS52-'ij;{, the brig Willinuuitic was driven ashore ujioii Eld
Island, having mistaken this for Shoalwater Bay. Aftej- vainly attempting to
launch her toward the sea, she was dragged across the island, and launched on
the bay side. Then the island was a mere bank of sjxiul, bare at all ti(U's, and
covered with logs and drift-wood.

The bay was discovered by Gray in :\Iay 1702, and named IJulfineh Harbor,
after oiu^ of the owners of his vessel. He placed it in latitude 4(io r>H' north.

It was surveyed by Lieutenant Whidbey, in the store-ship Da'dalus, October
1702, under the direction of Vancouver. He first sent in his boats, and then
crossed the l)ar in three fathoms, with the ebb current running so strong that,
although the .^hip was making n(>arly five knots an liour, litth; actual ])rogi-ess was
made. He applied the present name, Gray Harl)or, in compliment to its discov-
erer. On sonu) old maps we have found it called Whidbey's Harbor. He named
Point Hanson after the commander of the Da'dalus, and the northern point he
called Point Brown, placing it in latitude 40^ ')\)y north.

The southern point was called Point Chickeeles by the United States explor-
ing expedition in 1841, and placed in latitude iCfi i55' 30" ; aud the same name was
applied to the river.

In the first maps of the Coast Survey the southern point is termed Point Har-
rison— a clerical error. Among the few settlers in this region it is called Point
Armstrong.

The name of the river is derived from the Indian tribe inhabiting the bay and
river. They pronounce it Tche-havlis or Tsi-hie-lis, signifying sand.

For January ISoO the line of equal magnetic variation of 21° east crosses the
coast line in latitude 47° 08', and in latitude 40° 58' it crosses the 125th degree
of longitude. This line moves annually a mile and a half to the southward.

COPALIS RIVER.

We know nothing of this stream except from settlers wlio have passed it in
traveling along the shore.

From Point Brown the shore-line trends about north-northwest for ten miles
to the mouth of the Copalis. The barren waste of Point Brown continues along
this shore, commencing with a breadth of over one mile, stretching from the ocean
to a dense forest of lir, and growing narrower as it approaches the Copalis, where
the timber comes to the water's edge.

This stream is about one hundred yards wide, but the mouth is almost closed
by a 1)ar. Upon its banks reside the Copalis tribe of Indians, froni whom the river

172

COAST TTLOT OF WASniNC.TON TERKITOliY.

(lorivos it;'* iiiuii(\ •/' o all tlio stroiiins on this coast, it abounds in salmon, but
those cauffht hen' aro colcbiatod for their richness of flavor. Their {•eiu'ral
appearauj'e is similar to those of the Columbia Ifivor, but this variety rarely
exceeds two feet in lenjith. They weijuh troni live to ten pounds.

In or about October, lS."ii, there was discovered, one mile north of the Copalis,
the whole stern iVame of the pro])elIer (ieneral Warren, whicli had i>een wrecked on
(^Matsop si>it, at the nu)uth of the Columoia IJiver, more than two years previously,
having;' thus been carried by currents at least sixty nules from its orif;inal ])osition.
When the hyilroj;raphic survey of the entrance to the Columbia was made by the
Coast Survey parties, in 1S.")U, this wreck was found, and its position determined.
From Cape J)isappointment it bore southeast by east abm)st four miles distant,
and was consequently little more than a mile from I'oint Adams. Tt then rested
on the iu)rtli ed^e of the Clatsop spit. This shows a direction of the current, corrob-
oratiuf^' Vanccmver's account when anchored oft" Destruction Island, and agreeing
with the general experience.

Otf the coast of Washington Territory, La IYtouso says "the currents on this
part of the coast are extremely violent; wc fell in with eddies wlrcli did not sutler
the 8hii> to obey her helm with a three-knot gale, live leagues fr«>m land."

POINT GKENVILLE.

From the Copalis to this point the shore runs northwest half uorth about
sixteen miles, and continues low, nearly straight, and bordered by sand beach,
which changes to sliingle, disposed in long rows parallel to the coast. These ridges
of shingle dam the mouths of many small streams, and form ponds, abounding in
trout, and well stocked with beaver and otter, according to the accounts of the
Indians. The high land also approa<'hes much nearer the beach, and forms saml-
stone dilfs, with rocky ledges pr(»je(;ting into the ocean.

Point Grenville is a blulf, rocky promontory, streteliing westward about a mile,
and then southward about a quarter, forming a very contracted and exposed road-
stead. The three-fathom ciuve extends half a mile from the beach, compelling
vessels, except of veiy light draught, to anchor so far out that the point and the
rocks oft' it aft'oid but little protection from the northwest winds. It is useless
dnrilig the winter months. The point has high hills lying behind it, and many
rocks iuunediately oft" it. Two of these, about seventy-live feet high, lie east by
south, four hundred yards distant; another lies southwest three-quarters south,
lialf a mile distant. This, we believe, is the one that shows a large perforation
through it when viewed from the southeast or northwest. It has live and six
fathoms all around it. Others stretch along the coast to the northwest, one of
them showing from the south as a leg-of-nuitton sail. The bluff itself is composed
of line sandstone, is very st«'ep, and may be ascended by a difticult frail, which is
used by the Inciians. It is said to be a great resort for sea-otters, whicli are luuited
by the natives.

i=.l.

salmon, but
'licir jif'iicral
iiiicty rarely

the Copalis,
1 wrcckt'd on
"I provioufsly,
iial i)()sitioii.
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ilcs (listaiif,

tboii rested
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ihI agreeing

cuts on tliis
d not sillier
1.''

orth about
find beaeli,
iiesc ridoes
ouudiny in
Hits of tlic
Ji'ins sand-

out a mile,
osed road-
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nt and tbe
is useless
md many
east by
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composed
wliich is
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N.W llniii|i:issi |l> iiiil<'s

Si.il 11... k

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Di'Slnicliiiii 1. N.W iriiiii|ii\.ss ! Ip null

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I
5

Pt.CrnMivillp

riim I. N, W f l\nii|i;t,ss [ i inll*

f<%fn.--.uEgr?.

COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TEKRITOIIY. 173

Its approximate goograpliioal position is :

Latitudo 47 20 north.

Longituae 1-1 14 ^vest.

' h. m. «.

Or, in time ^ K' ^56

From Capp Disappointment liglit it bears nortlnvest by north half north, distant
sixty-two miles, and from the cape soundings may be had in from eight to liftoen
fathoms, three or i'our miles from the shore.

West by north, distant sixteen miles from Po'nt Grenville, avo discovered, in
•Tuno, 185."», a bank having fifteen fathoms upon it, Avith very soft mud bottom; at
twenty-one miles distance, seventeen fathoms; and at twenty-nine miles, thirty-six
fathoms; and three miles south -southeast of the first position v,e struek sixteen
and a half fathoms, with the same bottom, in all the soundings; but had not time
to make an extended examination. In April IS.'^ we found forty-five fathoms in
latitude HP 54/ north, longitude 125° 0;V -west, being sixteen miles broad off" shore.
The soundings of sevenieen, eighteen, and niTieteen fathoms, one mile from shore,
•would .lulieate a greater depth than we obtained. Yaucouver has fifty fathoms
inside of our first soundings.

Twenty miles southwest of Point Grenville, Tebenkoff has a current running
to the northwest.

Tliis point is said to be the Punta de :Mf;-ti:es of Ilece and Bodega, because
in latitud IT^ 20' seven of the crew of Bodega's vessel, the Senora, were massacred
by the natives.

It reeei\e(l its present name in 1702, from Vancouver, who placed it in latitudo
47° 22', and describes as lying off it "three rocky islets, one of which, like that at
Cape Lookout, is perforated."

North of (Iremiile to Cape Flattery the shore is l)ohl and rocky, with ocea-
sioual short reaches of sand beach. The timber comes down to the water; mode-
rat«"ly high hills approach the coast, through AvhicHi empty numerous snndl streams,
whilst the irn'gular Olympus range looms up tar in the interi<n\ In winter these
mountains are covered with snow, which lies in the gorges and valleys nearly the
whole summer. ]\Iount Olympus is the highest peak of the range. It attains an
elevation of eight thousand one hundred and thirly-eigh; feet, according to determi-
nations madeiu IStl by the United States exphuin- .-xpedition, which placed it
in latitiule 47'^ 45' north, and longitude 122° 37 west.

It is said to liave been first seen by Perez, in 1774, who [)laced it in 47° 47'
north, and called it La Sierra Santa Kosalia; but the account of his voyage was
not published until many years after that date, (1S02.)

It was next described by Meares, in !7S,S, and placed in latitude 47° 10'; the
error arising from his sujtposing it nuu'h nearer the coastline than it ac ually is,
ui»on the bearing which he ob^Tved. In his sketch it is marked <inite close to tlie
isiioie, in latitude 47° 14' north, lie called it M«)unt Olympus, the only nam<' l.y
which it is now known.

174

COAST PILOT OF AVASIIINGTON TI^RRITOllY.

Si !

Ill 1792 Vanrouver determined its position approximately, and gaAe tlie lati-
tude as 47° 50' north.

QU15-NI-UTL RTVER.

The month of this small stream is between three and four miles northwest by
west from Point Grenville, and is almost closed by the shingle and gravel thrown
up by the surf; there is, however, a contracted opening for the passage of canoes
in calm weather. The closing of the entran(!e has so dammed the river as to form
a small lake inside, upt :i the banks of which is situated a village of the Queniutls,
Ji race of Indians hostile to all other tribes. Combined with others to the north-
ward they have ever been notorious for their hostilitj^ and vindictiveness to the
whites. Several Spanish, English, and Russian A'essels and their crews were, in
former times, taken and destroyed. Ilence we meet with the names Destruction
Islaiul, Isla de Dolores, Punta de Martires, &c., in this immediate vicinity. The
river is said to head in a lake at the foot of the mountains.

The name of this river is usually known by the old settlers as Que-noith, but
the Indians are saul to pronounce it as if spelled Que-ni- tl, accenting the first
syllable strongly, and the last so softly that many persons consider they call them-
selves simply Que-nai. A tribe still further north is called Que-nait'-sath. The
Mukkaws call it the Quin-aitl. De Mofras calls it " Kiniat." — (See remarks, De-
struction Island.) On the Coast Survey reconnaissance chart it is called Quie-nite-l
River.

These Indians, when traveling by canoes along the low sandy beach south of
Point Grenville, push out into the rollers, keep between the line of two seas that
have broken, and pole the canoe through the surf. This peculiar mode is rather
apt to excite the fears of those ignorant of what a canoe can be made to do Avhen
skillfully handled.

For four miles above the Queniutl, the coast trends in the same direction,
northwest by west, is composed of sandstone clitis, and bounded by many precipit-
ous rocks, the height and direction of which are geiu'rally that of the clitt"; the
or.ter one, about fifty yards in extent and thirty feet high, is split in two, as seen
Irom the westward, and has been named the Split Rock. In the Coast Survey recon-
nidssance of IS.")!*, one is placed two and a half miles off shore in latitude -47° 27', and
the .'(^ssel's track is laid down inside of it. It is a low black rock about twenty
yards in extent and twelve feet above water; there is plenty of water one-quarter
of a mile outside of it. From the number of sea lions upon it it has been named
Sea Lion Rock. A groat many large rocky islets lie close in shore in this vicinity,
but n(nthwar<l the coast is nearly clear to Destruction Island. It makes a slight
curve eastward, and alternates with bold yellow cliffs and low shores.

DESTUUCTION ISLAND.

This island is the only one found deserving the appellation after leaving the
Farallones. It is quite flat on the toj), which lias an elevation of seventy-five feet.

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTOX TERKITOKY.

175

covered vith a very dense growtli of bushes, wliich have been removed in a few
plaees by the Hooch Indians for the raising of potatoes. Tliere is upon it a chinip
of four trees, readily distinguislied when a few miles from it. Vancouver reported
a few dwarf trees upon each end in 1792. The shores are bold, rocky, perpendic-
ulai', and nearly of the same elevation as the blwfts of the main shore. It is said
that there aro some remarkable perforations through a rock near it, but these
are, doubtless, only seen in particular directions. On the eastern end were for-
merly some rude Indian huts.

In running along this coast when ten miles oft", it is very difficult to make out
this island. It is of the same elevation as the coast cliffs aijacent, and when pro-
jected against them cannot be distinguished from them except when a slight hazi-
ness exists between the island and main.

It is two and seven-eighths miles from the nearest part of the main shore,
which here runs straiglit iiorth 30° west for ten miles. Its general direction is
north-northeast and south-southwest, having an extreme length of nearly lialf a
mile, and its width is about three hundred yards at the Avidest part, near the south-
ern end. Towards the north it tapers to a small rouiul point, from wliicJi i)rojects a
gravelly tongue about two hundred yards long, curviug to the northwest. Just
beyond this tongue is a lodge sweeping to the westward one-third of a mile, with
a few detached rocks awash outside. Off the northern end of the island and
ledge a number of large detached rocks, with three and five fathoms between them,
extends in the general direction of the island, nearly a mile from the edge of the
bluff. Heavy breakers generally exist throughout this rocky patch. The western
approaches to the island present a very rocky, uneven bottom, entirely iiiititted
for anchorage except at such a distance that the ishui'l woiilil attord no protection
from southerly winds or seas. The ten-fathom line i- ' i ii t liree-eighths of a mile
of tlie western shore, with uniform hard bottom outside lat 'listanfc in eleven and
twelve fathoms; and very irregular depths inside it, with two > i nu ks having

thirteen and eighteen feet of water on them. About two hundred and twenty
yards south of the extremity of the reef at the south end of the island, and a
(piarter of a mile froni the island, there is a sunken rock with sixteen feet of water
upon it. The southeastern face of the island is free of sunken rocks, bin has
broken, irregular bottom. South of tlie line of kelp (whicii cumniences olf the
northeastern part of the island and runs along the eastern face of the detaelicd
rocks to the northward,) there ar(> five and six fathoms very close to the sh(»i-e.
Sandy, sticky, and unifinin bottom in ten fathoms is found otV the southeast fari .rf
the island, at a distance of one-eighth of a mile from shore; and tlie water ai)pears
to deepen only a fathom in a quarter of a mile. Between the northern end of tlie
reef and the shore to the north-northeast the depth of water is everywhere less
than eiglit fathoms : the soundings are very uniform, between nine and ten fath-
oms to North Rock, one hundred feet high, four and a (piarter miles north-north-
east of the north end of the island, and one mile from the liearest slujre. Seven
miles south of Destriu'tion Island, in latitude 47° .'?.'U', Vaiiccmver anchored in

176

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEKRITOKY.

twenty-one fathoms of water over soft, sandy, and umddy bottom. This position
])hiced him seven mik\s Irom the nearest shore.

The examinations of the Coast Survey have materially reduced the reported size
of this island. Tlie extent of the island and reefs is one and three-eighths miles
north-northeast by half a mile iu width ; ami a thorough reconnaissance has devel-
oped the fact that it atlbi'ds Jio protection ajininst southeast weather ; in fact, prox-
imity to the island at such times is danj;erous.

The approximate yeoyraphical position of the north end is :

c /'

Latitmle 47 41 north.

Loniiitude.

124 25 west.

From Cape Disapi)ointment it bears northwest by north eiyhty-four miles.

Tin? average rise and fall of the tides observed at Destruction Island is about
live feet.

This island is called Isla de Dolores upon old Spanish maps. It received its
present name, by which it is only known on the coast, in 1787, from Captain
Bcrkely, who sent a long-boat from King George's Sound to explore as far suuth as
latitude 47°. The crew of a smaller boat entered a shallow river and rowed up
some distance, where they were attacked and murdered by the Indians.

In April 1792, while Vancouver was at anchor in twenty-one fathoms, seven
miles south of this island, he " had calms, and found a constant current, without
intermission, setting in the line of the coast to the northward at a uniform rate of
ludf a league per hour." After passing Cape Orford he had been regularly
thus ali'ected, and carried to the north ten to twelve miles per day further than was
expected. He giv< s the latitude of the island as 47^37' north.

The United States Coast Survey published in 180(5 a hydrographic reconnais-
sance of Destruction Island and its relation to the main land.

In the indentation of the coast live miles north of Destruction Island empties
a small stream named the llooch, after the Ilooch Indians living upon its banks j
about three miles northwanl of this stream is an island smaller and higher, but
similar in outline to Destruction. Although close to shore, yet in hazy weather it
is seen standing out ap])arcntly a long distance.

From Destruction Island m)rthward the shore is comijoscd of clift's, which form
a regular curve to a point bearing northwest half west iioni the north end of
the island, and eleven miles distant ; thence the shore runs nearly straight on that
course for ten miles to two high, abrupt, and well-marked rocks standing a mile
from shore. The outer one is Itjld and covered with tall trees, but tlie inner one
is bare. They are in latitude 47° 58', longitude 124° 40', both a|»[)roximately. Many
others, but smaller, lie inside of them, and nineteen fathoms are fouml close out-
side. Along this stretch the shore is irregular and blulf, with many i ,i;h rocky
islets oil it. About lifteen miles from Destruction Island, off the mouth of a stream
laid down as tln^ (Jiiil-ley-ute, there are two large, rocky islets covered with trees,
showing a cave in the sea-face of the southern and larger one. Tin y are not far

^iijiiaiu

until as

Wl'll up

', seven

vitlioiit

Kite of

^•iiliirlj

an was

oniiais-

nipties

banks J

er, but

itlier it

5I1 form

end of

)u that

ii uiilo

H'V Olio,

Many

SC out-

1 rocky

stream

i' '

L trec^s,

lot far

'-mmrsBM

COAST PILOT OF WASniNGTOX TERRITORY.

177

from the low beach, and behind the hirger one is a stockaded viHage on a {jjreen
rise between tlie leach and timber. Behind the northern and snialk'r one enters
a small stream i\ou\ the north and east, with apparently low groniid to the sonth
and east. Abont three miles northward of these rocks is Table Rock, abont sev-
enty feet hiyh, and one or two nules ott'shon^ It has very steep sides, rejjular and
glassy top, which rises into a slight, ronnd mound in the middle alxnit ten feet
high ; the positions of the rocks, and their relation to the coast in this vicinity, are
only approximate.

Aleares (!alls the curve of the coast, about Destruction Island, '^ Queenhythe
Bay," evidently a corrui)tiou of the Que-ni-utl, or Que-noith.

FLATTERY K0C!lv2

From the two rocks just mentioned to Cape Flattery, in 48° 23', the course is
almost north-nortljwest, passing through a group of high, well marked, rocky
islets, in latitude iH° 12' north, named the Flattery Roc ks. Before reaching these
the coast-line curves about a mile eastward, with a b.'uff shore nearly free from
rocks for abont eight mivcs, when a large white rock ii:>lf si, mih. out looms up
prominently, and is distinctly seen against the mainland.

Flattery Rocks extend between two and three miles from shore; the outer ledge
is awash with one islet in it, and the track of the Coast S.irvey steamer is laid down
inside of it, with sounding in nine to twenty fathoms. Iliivh, a'»rui)t, timbered islets
lie inside, with their ocean faces nearly i)ei licndicxdar, about one hundred and tifty
feet high, and sloping landward. Where destitute of trees, these are covered with
grass, bushes, &c. There is a large stockaded Indian \illage at the foot of the
high grassy slope abreast of the Flattery Rocks. There must be protection for
the Indians to land their canoes. The latitude of the rocks is 48° 12' north.

In March 1778, Cook having been driven seaward by heavy gal(!s off" Cape Per-
petua, made the land about the latitude of 47° ;J5', and four leagues from shore, as
he sa.' s, when he was in hopes of finding a harbor to t'>o northward under a snudl
round hill which appeared to be an island, but on approaching it he became almost
convinced that the opening was closed by low lands, and being thus disappointed,
he named the point of land to the noriu of it Cape Flattery, and jtlaced it in lati-
tude 48° 15' north. On recent English admiralty charts the cai)e is ])lac('d in the
position of the Flattery Rocks, although Vancouver adapted the jiresent usage on
this coast. From ^an examination of Cook's acccmnt, with a kii ..iedge of the
coast and the eiu'rents here, we are satisfied that he was further north than he esti-
mated on the morning of March 22, for he says the small round hill like an island
bore north three-quarters east, (trvu»,) distant six or seven leagues, while the coast
extended from north to southeast, (true,) and the nea'est shore distant about
four leagues. These facts convince us that his position was in latitude 47° 50',
longitude 124° 4(»'; from this situatu)n the Flattery Rocks are distant seven leagues,
bearing north three-quarters east, (true;) the extremity of Cape Flattery bearing
23*

178

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEHUITOKY.

7 1

nearly north, (time ;) the distance to tlie nearest point of laud a little more than
three leaj-nies, and the coast northward of Point Grenville bearing southeast,
(true.) The i>oint of laud northward of the Flattery IJocks wns, therefore, his Cai)e
Flattery, and his estimated latitude of it eight juiles too siiuill. liefore iu*.\t day
he had a very hard gale from the southwest, accomi)aui<'d with rain, and he did
not see laud again until he n'ached latitude 41)^°. lie arrived at the couelusiou that
between -17° and -tso there existed no inlet, as had been asserted.

From Flattery Rocks we And a liigh rocky coast, bordered by outlying rocks
for eight nules, when a low sand beach occurs, receiving a small stream which runs
east-northeast and finally north, behind the mountain constituting Cape Flat-
tery, to within two hundred yards of the beach in Nee-ah Bay, A rise of twenty
or thirty feet of the sea would nuike Cape Flattery an island, extending five miles
(west-northwest) by three miles in breadth. This creek is used by the outer coast
Indians during the prevalence of heavy winter gales, when the pa.s.sage outside
the (!ape would be imi)racticable.

From Point Grenville to Cai)e Flattery, the hills rising from the coast are
about two thousand feet high, densely (;overed by trees, and cut up by iniui-
merable valleys. The shore is inhabited by nuuun-ous tribesof Indians, accustomed
to war, and bitterly hostile to the whites. They are far superior to the Indians foiuid
along the southern coast. Their villages are heavily stockaded, and tlie houses
made of cedar boards, which they have cut with great industry from the tree. We
have measured and found some of these boards to be over four feet wide and 20
feet long ; the outside edges being about an inch thick, aiul three inches in the
midcUe. Their houses are very large, and partitioned off into stalls for each fanuly.
Tlie numerous streams emptying upon the coast afford them a never-failing supply
of the finest salmon ; and to obtain means of barter with white traders, they fear-
lessly attack and cai)tiu-e the difterent species of whale on the coast.

TATOOSII ISLANB.

This island lies west-northwest half a mile from the poiut of Cape Flattery.
It is composed of small islets coiuu'cted by reefs, is <piite fiat-topped, and without
trees. The surface is one hundred and eight feet above high water, and the sides
are perpendicular. The entire nuiss is composed of coarse sandstone conglomerate,
with an outcrop of basalt on one of the reefs. There is a depth of two or three
feet of soil upon the top, which was formerly cxdtivated by tlu; Indians, Avho
resorted here in summer, about one hundred and fifty strong, and had several
houses near the only boat-lauding on the inside of the island, (IS.'iL*.) A reef
extends a cpnirter of a mile oft' the west side of the island, ami the whole extent
of the island and reef is only half a mile west-northwest, by a third of a mile.
Deep water is found upon all sides, except between it and the cape, when; a reef
exists, upon which it breaks very heavily in bad weather. We are informed that
small A'cssels ha\e gone through when jammed by an unfavorable wind. In so

lo more than

g NOUtllCilHt,

no, lii.s Capo
ore next day
, iiiul he (lid
iielusioii that

itlyiiiff rocks
1 whieli runs
; Cape riat-
e of twenty
Iff live miles
i outer coast
fige outside

e coast are
ip by innu-
aceustomed
Hans found
the houses
> tree. We
ide and 20
^hes in the
ach family,
ling- sui»i)ly
, tliey fear-

! Flattery,
id without
d the sides
glomerate,
or three
ians, who
id several
) A reef
ole extent
of a mile.
i'r(! a reef
rmed that
id. In so

i iHi

'»i:i.,;:ftA|::;5Ki

COAST PILOT OF WASIlIN(iTON TEKlMTOliY. 179

doing groat risk must have been iiicuiTcd, as tlio ciirrciits in tlic vicinity run very
irrcgnlarly and strong. ,

From the tt»i» of the island a leaning roclfycoliinin, abont one liundrcd and forty
ft't't high and ill'ty feet in diameter, is seen to the southeastward, eh»se under tlio
face (»f the eai)e. It shows well when a])]troaehing Tato(»sh Island from the west,
and is last seen from the Strait of Fuea, when the eape is just open with the east end of
Tatoosh Island. It is named Pinnacle Koc^k ; sometimes (tailed Fuea's Pillar, but
Juan de Fuca located his pinnacle on the north side of the entrance to lii.s mythical
straits.

TATOOSII ISLAND LlftnT-IIOUSE.

This structure is erected on the highest part of the islatuT, and consists of a
keeper's dwelling of stoiu', with a tower of brick, whitewashed, rising above it, and
.surmounted by an iron lantern painted red, its height being sixty-six feet above
the toj) of the island. The light was first exhibited December liS, 1S57, and shows
every night, from sunset to sunrise, a Jixcd white lUjht of the first order of Fresnel. It
is elevated one hundred and sixty-two feet above the mean soa-levol, and in
clear weather should be aeon from a height of—

10 feet at a distance of 18.2 miles;

20 feet at a distance of 19.7 miles ;

.30 feet at a distance of 20.9 miles;

GO feet at a distance of 2.S.o miles;
so that a vessel from the southward will make it before being up with the Flat-
tery llocks.

The geographical position of the light, as determined by the Coast Survey, is '.

O ' II

Latitude 48 2;5 15.5 north.

Longitude 124 43 50.0 west.

h. m. s.
Or, in tuue 8 18 55.3.

Magnetic variation, 21° 46' east, in August 1855, with a yearly increase of 1'.

The angle of visibility from the land southward, round by the west to the
extreme western visible point of Vancouver Island, is 131°^, and froin the same
starting point rotmd by the west, up iie Strait of Juan de Fsica, 203°.

This island, with its outlying reef, is the most western portion of the United
States south of Alaska.

The present name is that given to us by the Indian tribe (Muk-kaw) inhaL'tirig
the cape and outer part of the strait. Their word to d'^slgimte an island is opi-
clmVt.

On June 29, 1788, Meares, passing the entrance to the strait, hove to off this
island, was visited by the Indians, and sent an officer to examine it, who reported
that it was a " solid rock covered with a little verdure, and suriounded by breakers
in every direction." They also " saw a very remarkable rock that wore the appear-

180

COAST riLOT OF WASITINGTON TKlflMTOKY.

aiico of iui nltclisk, iftid stood iit sonic distaiiro from tlic islmid." To tliis rock lie
pn» Hic iiiiiiic of Piiiiiiiclc Ikock. It is the coliiniiiai' Icmiiiij,' rock already de-
scribed. He says the " ishiiid itself a])])eared to be a barren rock, almost iiiacces-
sibh', and of no fjreat extent; bat th«' surface of it, as far as \vc could see, was
covered with inhabitants, who were }>azin}; at the shii>." "The chief of this si)ot,
whose name is Tatoochc, did us the i'av»»r of a visit, and so surly and forbiddinjf a
character we had not yet seen." The Indians evidently j;ave him the name of Iho
isliind, whi«-h he mistook for that of the chief. His sketch of the island and <'ai)0
also includes Hock Duncan.

Too-too-tche is the Nootka name for the " Thunderbird.*' The Mukkaws origi-
nally came from the west coast of Vancouver Island.

Ilerc^ we may be ])ermitted to remark, that fntm this jdace to (^aj)e Lookout,
the descriptions of Mcarcs aie confirmed by the later observations of the Coast
Hu'. vey.

I'.OCK DUNCAN.

This is a small, low, black rock, rising aI)ove the liis'hest tides, but always
washed by the western swell which breaks over it. Deep water is found close
around it. From Tatoosh Island lij;ht it bears north ',V,P west, distant two thousand
and seventy-eif,'ht yards, or more than a mile, and many vessels i)ass between them,
as tlie chart shows twenty-five fathoms; but a rock has been reported in the chan-
nel, and it would be well to avoid it until the doubt is set at rest. Vancouver's ves-
sels passed between them. The rock was first noticed by Mr. Duncan in 1788,
and j)laccd in latitude ISo ,'?7' north, which Vancouver, who gave it the present
name, considered a tyj)o{>'rai)hical error.

During a three months' stay at Nee-ah JIarl)or in 1852, we tried, upon several
occasions, to Iriiid upon this rock with canoes, but could never effect our object.

OJNTZ ROCK.

Nearly a quarter of a mil(> off llock Duncan, on the line from Tatoosh Island,
Kellet places a rock, having three fathoms water upon it, and to which he gave this
name.

With no Mind, a heavy swell from the west, ebb current, and proximity to
these outlying rocks and island, a vessel's position is unsafe, and great caution
sliould be exercised in navigating this part of the entrance to the Strait of Fuca.

CAPE FLATTERY.

This cape forms the southern head of the entrance of the Strait of Juan
de Fuca. It has a bohl, wild, jagged sea-facie, about one hundred feet high,
much di'M'tcgrated by the wearing action of the ocean ; rises in a mile to an
irregular hill of fifteen hundred or two thousand feet in height; is cut up
by gorges and covered with a dense growth of fir and almost iaii>enetrable
underbrush from the edge of the cliffs to the summit. The shore-line round to

COAST riLOT OF WASlIINdTON TERHITOllY.

181

Nco-ali Tliiy is of tlic same foil»i(l(liii}; cliiinu't*'!', bordered by reefs iuid liaviiif; but
oiu' short stretcli of beach at the foot «)f the hills. Upon this beacli is situated
{or was, in 1852) Clisseet's Villajre. The soundinj^s half a mile from shore are
deej) and irr«'p;uhir, reaehin;;' sixtyei^ht fathoms. The current runs as much
as three miles per hour, and duriii}; the ebb sets irrej-nlarly round the cape,
Tatoosh Island, ami Uock Duncan. When seen from the southwestward, CajHJ
Flattery htoUs like an island, on a<'count of the valley throe or four miles eastward.
The iM'st position (or seeiiifj this is when a '<injjle rock off the cajK' shows itself
(h'tached. From this direction, the hi{,di mountains on Vancouver's Island loom
up and stretch far away to the noithwest and t(» the east.

The extent of ocean shore-line from Cape JJisappointnu'iit to Cape Flattery is
one ]tundred and fortj-eiyht miles. The name adojjted is that which Cook mwo to
this headland in 1778. It has been called Cai)e Jfartinez by the Spaniards, from
its asserted disc(>very in 1774 by Martinez, pilot to Perez, who announced, nniny
years afterward, that ho renn'mbered to have observed a wide opening' in the
hind, between 48° and 4!)o north longitude. In 1788 Captain Duncan anchored
on the south sliore of the Strait of .Juan do Fuea, off a villaj^e called Claasit, or
Claaaet, in 48° 30'. On recent Enf,dish charts it is called Cape Classet, because,
in 1702, Vancouver stated that as the name given by the Indians to distinguish it,
but in a marginal note it is called " Capo Flattery.'' (See nnnarks in rela-
tion to tliis matter — Flattery Rocks.) In 1852 wo found that the then head
chief of the Muk-kaws, a powerful man, about forty or forty tiv(i years of age, called
n.mself and was called by tlu^ tribe Clisseet', but we could not ascertain whether
this was an hereditary title. On tho western coast it is universally known as
Cape Flattery.

It Avas near this cape that a Japansc junk was wrecked in 1S;}3, accounts of
which will be found in Belcher's narrative, and in that of the? United States explo-
ring expedition. (See, also, Schooha-aft's Indian Tribes of the United States, page
217.) This wreck, with that at Clatsop Point, and others found at sea, shows
strongly the direction of the prevailing winds, and especially the iuHuencc of the
great Jai)an Warm Stream that crosses the Paciftc, and reaches the American
coast about latitude 00°, where it divides, the greater part flowing down the coast
of British Columbia, Washington, Oregon, and California, and the smaller branch
sweeping close along the northwest sliores.

BANK OFF CAPE FLATTERY.

At the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuea, tiftoen miles, by estimation,
west-northwest from Cape Flattery, it is reported that a bank exists, having
eighteen fathoms upon it. The Indians frecpiently go out ui>on some bank off the
strait to fish for cod each season. In July 1805 the schooner lirant, of Victoria, dis-
covered cod-flshiug banks off Cape Flattery, and caught five barrels of cod after two
hours' fishing. The fish arc known as red cod, and weigh from five to fifteen
pounds oa<!h. The bank has soundings in twenty-five fathoms, anil is sixteen

emp

182

COAST PILOT OF WASniNGTON TERIUTOKY,

■!ll

miles nearlj' due west from Ciii<o Flattery. Tn 1807 an examination was made of
lialibut banks in fiftj' fatlioms water, off the southwest coast of Vaneouver. This
is an Indian iishinjif ground. Canoes ^o out on ebV) current, catch an average of
fifty fish of fort\ pounds weight each, of indifferent ({uality, and return with Hood
current and westerly wind. No extended examination was made.

About latitude -ISo .'?.">', and seventy-five miles west by sonth fr..ni Tatoosh
Island, La Ferouse soun led over a bank having thirty-five fiitiioms and pebl)ly
bottom. On a line abo'.t twenty miles north by east from that [)oiut he got forty-
two, forty-five, sixty-five, seventy-five, and thirty-four fathoms ; thence southear*^ he
imn-eased his depth to ninety fathoms in about seven miles. The weather foggy, and
no observations for position. Tliis is, doubtless, the bank lying thirty-tive to forty-
five miles west from Cape I'lattery, and midviiig out from Ban.'lay Sound. The
English Chart ;No. J'JIT exhibits this b'Mik to which I Lave applied the name La
I'erouse.

ST1:AIT OF JUAN 1)E FIJCA.

Tlie entrance to this strait fn ni the Facific lies between Cajie Flattery and
Cape Bonilla, on Va?ic«>uver Island, whidi forms the northern sIkuc. Its width
is about twelve miles, ami the bearing from Tatoosh Island to Cape IJonilla north ISo
west. From this line the strait nms east for fortj miles, with a uniform width of
eleven miles. It gradually contracts to eight miles, between Beechj'^ Head on the
north and StriixMl Feak on the south; changes its direction to east by north half
north for lifteen miles ; then expamls to the uiutlnvard, attaltnng a width of eighteen
to twenty miles, and divides into two shi]) channels, the C..iial de Ilaro and Itosario
Strait, leading through the Arcliipelagode llaro uoiihward,to tlie (iulf of (ieorgia.
It is terminated on the east by AVhidbey Island ; at the southeast it passes into
Admiralty Iidet, an<l is bounded on the scuth by the main land of Washington
Territory, wliich forms the entire southern shore of the sti'ait. From the ocican to
VVhidbey Island the mid-channel distance is eighty-four miles. The depth of water
throughtmt the strait is remarkably great, no bottom being found in its deepest
])arts Avith one hundr«'d and fifty fatlioms of line. It is the main artery for the
waters of Admiialty Inlet, Fuget Sound, Possession Sound, HikmI's Canal, Canal
de Ilaro, llosario Strait, Belli ngham Bay, and the vast Gulf of Georgia, extend-
ing between Vancouver Island and British Columbia, for one hundred and twenty
miles, with an average width of twenty. Its currents run with an average
velocity of not less than three miles per )u»ur. and olV the Race Island a:id Beechy
Head over six miles an ln)nr. Its shoies are bold, abnij)!, and covered with a
heavy growth of varie<l tin)ber and dense undcrbiush. On the north, the moun-
tains rise ra])idly from the water, and many attain ;ia elevation of not less than
five thousand or six thonsaml feet. These are covered with spruf e nearly to their
summits. On the south, for thirty "'lies fnmi the entrance, the shore is Itounded
by hills iv>o tluiiisand iWt in height, backed by the jagged Olymjms range of
t'iglit thousand tvo Imndred feet. l'\ir the next fitt.v mi'es the shore is generall.v a

COAST PILOT OF AVASHINGTON TEKKITOEY.

183

steep cliff, from fifty to two humlred foethif,^!!, withiifliit country exteiuliiifj nearly
to the Ibot-liills of Olympus, and stretcliinj^ further south as we nu)ve eastward.
On the east, the face of Whidbey Island is very steep; it .s alumt two hundred
u;:d litry feet high, and a])pears tlai-, as does the whole country eastward to the
sharp-cut outline of the Cascade range, stretching its serrated ridge northward,
where the snow peak of IVIouut Baker* is distinctly seen, and to the southward,
where the higher peak of IMount JlaiiJer attracts the eye.

Humboldt calls this Mount Kegnier, depending ui)on the narrative of Fremont,
Avho saw it in active operation November i;.5, IS-i.J. We believe it is over lifteen
thousand feet liigb.

During dry summers the Indians and settlers set fire to the for«>sts in every
direction, and the country soon becomes enveloped in a vast smoke that lasts for
two or three months. At such times it is frecjuently impossible to make out the
shore at half a mile distance. The strong westoly winds coming up the strait
disi)erse it for a while, '»ut oidy to fan the fires, and give them renewed force aiul
activity.

In summer the prevailing wiiul draws into the stiuit, increasing towards eve-
ning, and frequently blowing a ten-knot breeze before midnight ; but unless
the wind is strong outside, 'ittle is felt in the strait, and very fre<iuently ves-
sels area week from Cape Flattery to Admiralty Inlet, or cice versa. In winter
the southeast winds draw directly out, and create a very heavy cross-sea off the
entrance, the great soutliwest swell uuK^ting that rolling out. In such cases trad-
ing vessels try to gain Nee ah Bay or Han Juan Harbor, and renuiin at anchor until
the wind (changes. In beating in or out vessels nmy run as close uiuler either
slune as wind and currents warrant, as no hidden dangers liave been found half a
mil', otf shore, except at the west side of tlie small indentation called ('rescent Bay,
near Striped Peak, forty-four miles inside of Kock Duncan.

At the entrance the ciu'rents ac({uire, during the "large tide" of each day, a
veloi'ity of four miles per hour, and after strong northwest winds a very large,
short, but regular swell is encountered west of Nee-ah Bay during the ebb cur-
rent. If the wind is light, and no steerage way on the vessel, the feeling is decid-
edly disagreeable, especially as the current seems constantly tu set close anaind
Bock Duncan and Tatoosh Islaiul. If a vessel falls into the trough of this swell,
she is bound to Jetch away something.

Settlers are gradnally advancing from JNiget Sound aiul Admiralty Inlet along
the strait westward, and are destined to meet those coming up the ct)ast from
Cray Harbor and Shoalwater Bay.

Wiishington Territory has a climate excelled oidy by that of California. Wo
know not where to point to such a ramifu-atioii of inhuitl navigation, save in the
Hritisli possessituis to the mtrthward. For depth of w ater, boldness of apjiroaches,
freedom from hidden dangers, and the immeasurable sea of gigantic timber com-
ing down to the very shores, these waters are unsurpassed.

'Nimn'il by ViHicouvcr, t7W.

184

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TERRlTOliY.

1 ■

3Ri

The Strait of Juan de Fuca was discovered by tlte long-ljoat of the laiperial
Eagle, under the command of Herkely, in 1787.

In June 1788 it was examined by Meares, in the Felice, lie luiving ol»tained
information of its existence from Herkely. At the entrance it "appeared to be
twelve or fourteen leagues broad. From the mast-head it was observed to stretcli
to the east by north, and a clear unbounded horizon was seen in that direction as
far as the eye could reach." He freciuently sounded, ''but could [uocure no bot-
tom with one luuv.lred fathoms of line." He afterwards sent a party to exphuc
the strait, who weiit up about iiftj' mUes, determining the harbor of San Juan.
He first applied th ' name "John de Fuca" to the strait.

After the expedition of 1775 several Si»anish expeditions were fitted out for
exphmition in these latitudes, but we are not sufficiently acquainted with their
results to state their claims and merits. Haro was in the strait in 1781), Quimper
in 17iH), Eliza in 17'./1, and Cialiano and Yaldez in 1792.

Gray entered the strait in 171)2, penetrated fifty miles in an oast-southeast
direction, and found the passage five leagues wi(h\ He gives the latitude of
Tatoosh Island, or Cape Flattery, 48o 2-4'. The extracts from his log-book, stat-
ing particulars of this and the Columbia Kiver exi>Ioration, were not nuule public
until 1810. ^[ost of Gray's latitu(h;s, distances, and courses are good and trust-
Avorthy.

Vancouver entered the strait iu 1792, and gave to the Avorld the first detailed
and authentic account of it.

Till-: SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA.

NEK-An BAY.

Koitlah Point, the western boundary «)f this bay, is four miles east by north
two-thirds north from the light-house on Tatoosh Island. From Cape Flattery
the shore is nearly straight, high, and rugged, backed by hills about one thousand
five hundred or two tlumsand feet high, and covered with timber. Deej) water is
found within a third of a mile of the blutts, and at a distance of half a mile a
depth of twenty fathoms is obtained. Witiiin a mile of Koitlah Point was a large
village of the .^lukkaws, (18r)2.)

The bay is about a mile and a quarter long south-southeast, and the same in
width at the entrance. The western side is high, precipitous, and bordered by
craggy, outcro])ping rocks, three hundred or four hundred yards from the sIkmv.
The three fathom line ranges about six hundred yards from the foot of the blulf.
The general direction of this side is southeast for one mile; when the hills sud-
denly cease, and a low shore, with sand beach backed by w(tods, curves gradually
to the northeast by east for a mile and a quarter to Ha-ad-dah Point, fiunied by a
spur of the hills.

The east side of the bay is formed by Waaddah Island, the northern end of
wliicli lies one and a half mile from Koitlah, east by north half n(»i'th. This island

e Imperial

g obtained
'iired to be
i t<» stietcli
ire(;tioii us
ire no bot-
to explore
Sau Juan.

ted out lor
witli tlieir
', Quiinper

•southeast
atitude of
LM)ok, stat-
iide public
and trust-

it detailed

UCA.

I by nortli
! Flattery

thousand
[) water is

a mile a
IS a large

e same in
tiered by
he shore,
th." bluff,
hills sud-
^radually
med by a

m end of
is island

COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TERIUTOltY. 185

is a narrow, liish ridge, about two hundred and lil'ty yards wide, and hall" a mile
Ions', covered with trees, and having- a direct ion southeast onc-iiuarter east, pointing
toward IJa-ad <lah Point, and presenting the appearance of a continuation of thiit
spur, but separated from it by a ibur-l'atliom chaiuiel live hundred yards wide.
Off the southwest part rocks extend foi' two hundred and fifty yards, and the
three-fathom line is si>; hundred yards distant. Along the sand beach the three-
fathom line is within two hundred yards of the shore, the depth increasing to
seven fathoms, then decreasing to live, in the middle of the bay, and again
increasing to ten on the outer line of the bay. ^luch kelp abouiuls in this har-
bor, even in deep water, the lower and thinnest portion being used by the Indians
for fishing-lines. When coiled away and dry they bieak like grass, but soaking
them in salt water renews their elasticity and strength.

Th(> best anchorage is in the south part of the bay, in about five fathoms,
being th(>n olf the suudl stream which cimies in at the eastern foot of the hills.
J<ro direction ean be given alxmt anchoring olf any particular village, as the
Indians change their location so freviuently; but near this stream will generally
be fouml «ome houses, with an abundance of fresh water. During s(»utherly
weather little swell is felt here, and the wind can do no harm; but when a large
westerly swell is coming up the strait it reai-hes lure, and a vessel rolls uncom-
fortably unless she rides head to it.

The low ground iibreast of the anchorage, and but two or three hundred yards
from the beach, is the head of a small stream that runs through the low prairie lands
behind Cape Flattery, and empties into Nisco I'.ay south of the cape, near a win-
tei- villiigv of the Alukkaws, called Wa-at<-h. This stream is frciiueutly used by
them in winter, when they cannot take their canoen outside the ca])*'.

The priumry astronomical station of the Coast Survey was just back of the
beach, about lour hundred yar.ls east of the snudl stream before referred to.
From the northwest end of Waaddah Ishiud it bears south by west half west, dis-
tant one and three-eighths mile. Its geographical positum is:

Latitude.... 4S 21 4S.S north.

Longitude 1^;' ^^7 Jli.Owest.

" . II. III. K.

Or, in time '"* '"^ -'^•'^

.Magnetic variation L'l- ;50' east, in August isr.i', with a yearly increase of I'.

Soon after we left this station the Indians dug up and destroyed all the nuirks
fixed to recover it, under the belief that evil s])irits were buried with them.

The buildings of the Indian reservation are near the (.'oast Survey statiim ;
the residence of the Ciiited States agent is at the eastern point of the bay.

7V,/(.,s'.— The corrected establishment, (U- mean interval between the time of the

moon's transit au.l t\u' time of high water, is V2h. Xh,,. The nu-an rise and fall of

tides is o.r. feet; of spring tides, 7.4 feet; and of neap tides, 1.S feet. The mean

duration of the Mood is (i//. 'Mm., and of the ebb ti/(. Wm. The average ditfereni-e

24*

:?*

180

COAST riLOT OF WASIIIXGTOX TEHIIITORY.

l)ctwo('ii tlio eorroctod establishments of the a. in. and p. ni. titles of the same day
is 1//. ISjH. for hijih Avater, and Mi. (»L*w. for low water. Tiie dilVerences when the
moon's declination is j^reatest are li//. l'()»j. and 1/;. 'AUii., respectively. The averaf^e
ditferenee in height of those two titles is 1.7 feet for the high waters, and ;5.5 feet for
the low waters. AVhen the moon's declination is j^reatest those dift'eienees are 2.8
feet and o.O feet, respectively. The averafto ditferenee of the hij^her high and lower
low waters of the same day is .s.L' feet, and when the moon's decliiuition is great-
est, 0.5 feet. The higher high water in the twenty-fonr hours oecnrs about ll/i.
itim. after the moon's upper transit, (southing.) when the moon's declination is
north, aiul about '.V2m. before, when south. The lower low water occurs about Ih.
after the higher high water. The greatest observed difference between two low
waters of one day was 0.0 feet, and the greatest difCerence between the higher
high and lower low waters of one day was 12.0 feet.

To tind the times of high and low waters, first cimipute them for Astoria, and
tiom the niimliers thus obtained, subtract nine minutes for Nec-ah l>ay.

Tiiis bay was known as Poverty Cove by the early fur traders on the coast;
next as i'ort Nunez (luona, by Quimper, in 17!>0. In 1702, the Spaniards, then
establishing themselves at Nootka Sound, attempted to found a colony here, and
as la.(> as lSt7 bricks were found near tlu^ small stream abieast of the audio.. ige.
AVe searched for vestiges of the settlenu'iit in 1S.")2, but found lutthing. \n ISOO, a
brick Avas dug up from the depth of two feet, on the site ]»oiiited out by the
Indians. "S'aucoiiver noted the indentation of the coast here in 1702. It was
next called "Scarborough llarltor," by the United States exploring expedition in
1S41. The Indian name is that now adoi)ted, and the only one by which it is
known on the coast.

In 1S.")2, the ]Mukkaws about Flattery could muster three liiuidrtMl or four
liuiidred warriors, mostly armed with muskets and knives. Tiiey had several
large stockaded villages, and hundreds of canoes. We have counted over seventy
at one time, tishing for salmon in the biiy. They were brave and fearless; made
voyages to Nitinat, Clayotiuot, and Nootka Sounds, and pursued the whale and
black tish successfully. In three months they sold over seven thousand live hun-
dred gallons of oil to the traders. They maintain trade with the Indians on the
west of Vancouver, tbrcing them to dispose of their oil and skins to themselves
directly, and not to the traders. IJy this means they make a large prolit as inter-
mediate traders. They estimate their wealth by the miniber of slaves and
bhinketf'., and the (piantity of oil they ]»osses.s. In the fall of isr»2, the small-poy.
was introduced among them, and nearly swept olV the tribe, more than two tliin's
falling victims to the disease — among them the principal chief, Clissect, and tiie
second chief, J'Mattery .lack.

Two miles east of Waaddah Island, and within the limits of the kelp, is a
rcM'k one hundred and titty feet high, called Sail Itock by the United States
exploring expedition, and by Kellet, Klaholoh, (seals.) The Indian name is
Saelok. Behind it enters a small stream called the Oklio on the admiralty charts,

COAST riLOT OF WAS II INC TON TEIUUTOKY.

187

? same day
•i wlu'ii the
lie avera{,fe
ii.."3 foot tor
oos arc 2.8
and lower
u is groat-
ibont 11/t.
liiiation is
1 about 7/i.
n two low
lie higher

toria, and

lie ooast;
nils, tlioii
lioic, and
iu;Iio..(ge.
In lS(io, a
It by the
. It was
'dition ill
lich it is

I or lour
1 so\oral
• seventy
*s; made
luile and
live hun-
■s on the
3msei\es
as inter-
ves and
inall-poy.
o-thin's
and tne

elp, is a

States

laino is

charts,

but tliis is not the Indian name, and has probably been confounded for the
O'Koho, thirteen miles eastward of Nee-ah I'.ay.

calla:m nAv.* *

I'rom the eastern point of Xeeah bay to Sekoii Point,* tlie western part of
Callain Hay, the course is east half south, and distance thirteen and a half miles.
The shore-line is nearly straight, bhilf, and bordered by rocks, with an occasional
stretch of sandy beach. One mile oil" shore the average depth of water is twenty
fathoms. Tlie bay is at the western termiuatioii of a high, bold, wooded ridge,
running i)arallel to the slion^, with an almost perpendicular water face, and laliiiig
away rapidly inshore. This easily recogni/ed ridge is about one thousand feet
high and seven miles long. The western extremity lies east one-third south iVom
AVaaddah island, is distant sixteen miles, and called Slip Point ;* the eastern is
designated Pillar Point.* The width of the bay, from Sekou Point to Slip Point,
is two miles, and the bearing east by ii(»rth half north. Outside these limits
lifteen fathoms water may be struijk. The form of the bay is nearly semicircular,
and the depth of the curve nearly a mile, Avith six fathoms about the middle.
Into it empties a small stream from the southeast, having low land on its eastern
side, and a small rise on the west. Some sunken rocks are said to lie oft' Slip
Point.

The water along the face of the ridge is very deep, and the bottom rocky ami
irregular. About half way along it is the entrance to a vein of lif^nitiN which has
been worked, but it is not tit for steamshi]* consumption. Off this mine, at a dis-
tance of a cable's length, a <lepth of thirty-live fathoms is found, with a swell upon
tlu? rocks sullicient to (h'stroy any boat l(^ading there. The so called c<»al is very
easily broken, and crumbles by exposure to the weather. We saw it fairly tried
upon a steamer, and it did not answer. An analysis of some of the best specimens
yielded sixty-eight per cent, of carbon, and we Judge it to be bitumen. The
geological formation of the whole region is opposed to the existence of coal.
Among the bituminous shales we searched in vain for any specimens of fossil
impressions.

Pillar Point is nearly east half south from the north end of Waaddah Island,
and distant twenty-three miles. Its latitude is 48° 1.!' north. The ])eak is
slightly sejiaratcd from the main ridge by a de]n-ession. I'^rom this ]>oint the
shore trends south-southeast about a mile, and receives a stream coining from the
westward, called Canel Kiver.* An Indian village exists here. The Indian name
of the stream is Pisht-st.

From Pillar Point the next pnmilnent object is a wooded hill called Strijied
Peak,* bearing east by north, and distant seventeen miles. The shore retreats to
the southward of this line alxuit three miles, having alternate blutf an<l low
shores, with many little streams opening ui)on them; and at the distance of eleven
or twelve mih's frtnn Pillar Point, Low Point* makes out, at tlu! mouth of a

"NuiiH" i»ii tlu' Kiinlisli niliniritll.v rlimt, 1847.

188

COAST riLOT OF AV^ASIIINGTOX TERRITOIiY.

stream railed tlie Lyre.* Eoeks abound close sdoiij^ the shore. The kelj) jfeiie-
rally extends out lo live iathonis, and the average dei»th of water, a uiile olV, is ten
fathoms. One mile before reachinjj^ the western part of Striped Peak is a sunken
rock, upon which the sea bri'aks at low water. A slif^ht indentation of the shore
here has received tin' name of Crescent Bay.t

Striped Peak is several hundred feet hijih, and wooded, and was doubtless
named from a well-marked line uptui its water side, occasioned by a land slide
from its summit. This mark is beiuj; rapidly obliterated by the growth of vegeta-
tion. The base of the hill towards the water presents a istraight line, running east
by mu'th for three nules, with deep water oJif it.

Frcshiratcr li<ii/.f — The eastern part of Striped Peak, with several rocks oil' it,
is called Observatory Point, on the admiralty charts, and forms the western
boundary of Freshwater Hay. The eastern side is the low delta called Angeles
Point, at the mouth of the river Elwha. and the line joining the two runs east by-
north two-thirds north three miles across. Inside of this line the deptii of the
curve is about one and a quarter miles, with water ranging from sixteen fathoms to
fcmr or live close inshore. The western shore of the bay is blutf, the eastern low,
with a blutf in the rear. The waters of the Elwha bring down such iiuantities of
earth that we lind only ten fathoms water at a distance of three-quarters of a
mile olf its mouth.

rOKT ANGELES, OR FALSE DrNUE>'E8S.

Four miles east of the IClwha commences a long, low, very narrow sand spit,
stietching out from the blutf in a general east-northeast direction for three miles,
to the [loint called Ediz Hook;| which lies one and a half mile off the main shore,
thus forming an excellent au<l extensive harbor, open to the eastward: with deep
water of twenty-tive to thirty fathoms, sandy bottom, close under the inside of the
sand si)it, almost to the head of the bay. Through the centre of the bay we found
a line of fifteen fathoms, sticky bottom, and between that and the main it shoals
very regularly, with the same kind of bottom. On the outside of the sj)it, very
deep \\ ater is found close to it, and the Hook nuiy be rounded within a cable's
length, in twenty-five fathoms. In the indentation betMcen Angeles Point and
the head of the bay the \\ ater is shoal, ten fathoms being found two miles li'om
shore.

The nook is covered with coarse grass, and in many places with driftwood,
showing that the sea sometimes washes over it. Although it lies well <mt of the
line of vessels bound either in or out of the strait, it has been deemed necessary
to mark it with a lighthouse. In thick, hazy weather, it would be readily dis-
tinguished if clumps of trees were planted upon it; as we recouimended, in 1852,
for the low tongue of New Dungeness. From the mi(hlle of the strait it cannot bo

* Naino on the Eii}{lish adminilty I'liiivt, 1S47. Tlio Iiidiim tmnir of this river is iCwn-lm-inish.

t Name on i\w Kn>;lish admiralty cliart, 1S47.

t Named on tlie i;ii;;lisli adniirall.v eliarl of I'-^IT ; K-edi/ on (liat of IS.")!!.

COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TEKRITOEY. 189

seen; aiul its position is ascertained by the light-lionse bniUling, or the peenliari-
ties of tbe bluff beyond.

LlGlITIIOrSE ON EDIZ nOOK, VOllT ANttELES.

Tlie lighthouse is within fifty-live yards of the eastern extremity of the Hook,
and sixty-seven yards i'roni the iiuier beach. The structure consists of the
keeper's dwelling of one and a half stoi'ies, painted white, from -which rises the
tow er, also i)ainted white, Avith the dome red. The height of the focal plane is
forty-two feet above the sea. The light is a fued ichitc lujkt of the fifth order of
F'csnel. It was first exhibited April li, lS(jr>, and is sliown from sunset to sunrise.
In ordinary states of the atmos[)here, it should be seen from a height of—

10 feet at a distance of 11.0 miles.

20 feet at a distance of 12.5 miles.

30 feet at a distance of 13.7 miles.

Its geographical position, as determined by the United States Coast Survey, is:

Latitude 48 07 27.S north.

Longitude 123 23 42.0 west.

/i. m. K.

Or, in time 8 13 34.8

The computed magnetic variation for January 1808, is 21° 30' east.
From this light we have the following bearings and distances:
Light-house on Eace Eocks, northwest three-quarters west, ten and a half
miles.

Lighthouse at entrance to Esquimalt Harbor, northwest by north qiiarter
north, seventeen and a half miles.

Liglit-house on New JJungeness, northeast by east, twelve and a half miles.
It is visible from a shii>'s deck, abreast of the Eace Eocks. At the head of the
harbor, and connected therewith by a small outlet, is a large salt-water lagoon.
Fresh water is found on the south shore in several places, but the extensive fiats
render it difficult to be obtained. The bluff, about seventy feet high, comes
almost dire(!tly to the high-water line, exe(>pt in a few localities. There Indian vil-
lages of the Clallums* existed on its shores in 1852, when a .secondary astronom-
ical station of tlie Coast Survey was established near the Indian grave-yard at
the head of the harbor. Its geographical position is :

Latitude 48 07 52.0 north.

Longitude 1-5 -^ -1 west.

h. m. 8.

Or, in time - ^ 13 49.4

From this station the extremity of Ediz Hook bears northeast by east, distant
two and five-eightlis miles.

*'rii(> triboH now KciKMuUy, Itnt crrdiicously, kiuiwii by this iiiimt' I'lill tUuiimclvcs tlu> Nus-klili-
yiuii; they (Mcii|..v llir .ViiiiTiciiii side oC tlic slriiil I'rom tlii> Oki'-lio, tliirtccii inili's I'loiii Ncr-Mli
J5uy. Tlirii' ciiiini iicrs iiic tlie T'sok mid Sfinli-iis on imrt of the NiimouviT Hide.

190

COAST PILOT OF WASIIINCTOX TICllKITORY.

Tlic bay Avas first discovered by the Spaniards, and by tlieni niailo known to
Vancouver in 17!*2. Wc first heard of the name, False l)un}i;<Miess, in l.sr»i;, wlieii
at Cape Flattery, from traders tlient mIio did not know the proper name of the
liarbor. The United States customhouse for this district '.as removed from I'ort
Townshend in 1S02, and located on the south side of this harbor, in tlu; month
of the sharp fi'ully, nearly two miles south-southwest from the point of l^diz Hook.
On the Kith of December liSO.'J, the villa j;e and custom-house were (U'stroyed
by a torrent of Avater burstinj;' throu;;h the f'ully behind the town; an accunuila-
tion of follcn timber that had damnu'd up the waters, haviuf;' suddeidy yiven way.
The cust(mi-house was ajjain removed to Tort Townshend; and the village is now
located on the low, narrow point under the bluff, or little nuu-e than one and a
half miles south three-rinarters west from the lifjht-house. The larjje Indian villaj^e
is neaily one ami a half miles south by east half east from the lijj;Iit-house. The
head of the bay alVords a capital beach for heavinj;' down a Aessel. A ])reliminary
chart of False Dunaeness was imblished by the Coast Survey in 1853, and a
second edition in J8.")(!.

Coal of fair quality is rejiorted to have been found within three miles of the
harbor.

NEW DUNUENESS BAY.

The snore from Point Anodes gradually curves to the northeast ; and abont eijilit
or nine miles iVoni E<liz Hook another lon^', low, narrow sand s])it, covered with
grass, leaves the blutf shore and stretches in a fjeneral north northeast direction for
three and seveii-eijihths miles, formiiij;' the northwestern shore of the roadstead of
I^ew Dinif^'eiiess. On the iusich', one mile from the eastern extremity, another nar-
row sand spit makes one and one-third miles southward toward the main shore, foriu-
inj;' a large inner shoal bay, with a narrow opening, through which the arc'r passi-s,
as over a ra])id at low tide. Abreast of this point is a small streaii , att'ording aii
abundance of fresh water ; but boats must obtain their supply at low tide, and come
out when the tide has sufliciently risen. The western side of this stream is a bluff,
sixty feet high, and upon it is a large village of the Clallums. The eastern shore
of the stream is low, swampy, and covered with trees and brush. It fiuins the south-
ern or main shore of the roadstead, and off it lie extensive mud fiats, which are bare
at low water for five-eighths of a luile, and run as far as Washington, (u- Budd's
Harbor. Shoal-water exists some distance outside of these Hats. About twenty
fathoms are found about a (piarter of a mile south of the Liglit-h(mse Point, the
depth regularly decreasing across the bay, Avith a soft, tenacious, muddy bottom.
The usual and best anchorage is to bring the light-house to bear about north by
east lalf east half a mile distant, Avhen ten fathoms are found one-third of a mile
broa I off the beach. With the lighthouse bearing northwest by north threet
quarters of a mile distant, the same depth and bottom are found. The nearest
shore Avill Ix'ar south one and a cpiarter miles, and the nuid llat three-(piai'tersof a^
mile in the same direction. A southeast wind drawing out of the strait bloA\s

•tioii for
stoiid of

icr iiiir-
'(', foriii-

]>as:-;.'S,
iliii};' ill!

11(1 ('OHIO

a bluff,

•II shon;

south-

irc bare

IJiuld's

twenty

>iiit, the

Itoltoni.

oitli by

a mile

1 tlll■('(^

nearest

■rs of a

l»lo\v.s

COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TEUKITOEY. lUl

(lircetly into tlii.s harbor, but the bottom will hold any vessel with f;ood fyround
taekle. The only diilieulty will be to }?et the anchors (mt of the uuid after ridiuf"' a
eouple of days to a yale. In the last position a vessel can readily }^et under way
and dear tlie iKtint.

This jxtint is so low that vessels bound in (u- out, before the erection of the
lijiht-house, were upon it before they were aware of their danger. Several had run
ashore on the outside beach, and in IS,"*, while we w(n'e anchored close in, with
the weather thick and hazy, a vessel from Admiralty Inlet had been set out of her
course i»y the currents, and Ciime diiviufj;' in with studdinji' sails set, and only saw
her mistake and danj;er when the black hull of our vessel attracted her attention.

A shoal, with two and a half fathoms, makes out from the end of the point
for lialf a mile, and a heavy tide-rip runs over it at the change of currents.*

A hydrographic sketch of New Duugeness Avas issued from the Coast Survey
Office in 185(5.

LIGIIT-lIOITSE AT NEW DUNGENESS.

The structure is about oiuvsixth of a mile from the outer end of the point, ami
consists of a keeper's dwelling, of stone, with a tower of brick, the upi)er hall'
being a dark lead color, the lower half white. Tlie tower is surmounted by an
iron lantern, i)ainted red ; the entire height being ninety-two feet, and its eleva-
tion above the mean sea-level one hundred feet.

The light was first exhibited December 14, 1857, and shows every night, from
sunset to sunrise, a Jixed white light of the third order of Fresnel. It should be
seen from a height of —

10 feet at a distance of lo miles,

-'0 feet at a distance of lOi miles.

30 feet at a distance of IT'J miles.

Its geographical position, as determined by the Coast Survej', is —

o ' "

Latitude 48 10 58.1) north.

Longitude 123 00 07 west.

h. m. s.

Or, in time 8 lU 24.5

Com])uted magnetic variation, 21° 43' east, in August, 185C, with a yearly

increase of 1'.

Fi'om it we hav(i the following bearings and distances :

Ediz Hook light-house, southwest by west, twelve and a half miles.

Eace liocks light-house, west, distant eighteen miles.

Esquimau Uarbor light-house, northwest by west seven-eighths Avest, twenty

miles.

* Buoy off Kciv I)un;/(:iicss Spil. Anotlu!!- buoy 1ms been placed off tlii.s point. It is an iron buoy
ol' thu sccoml class, painted rod. It lies in tliioc and a half fathoms water, ono mile uoftheast by
north from Xew Dungent'ss lightJiouse, and west by north one-half north from the southern end
of Protection Inland.

h)2

COAST T'TLOT OF WASIIINOTOX THKIUTORY.

Victoria Ifiubor, northwest by west tliit'e-ciuaitcrs west, (listaiit seveiitecii
and thi'oo-iinarti'rs iiiilos.

Siiiitli'.s Islaiul lif-ht-lioiiso, iioithi'ast by north one-(|uar(t'r north, distant thir-
teen and u halt' miles.

Point Wilson, east l»y north, distant Ibnrteen and three-(inarters miles.

Admiralty J lead lij^ht-honso, west by sonth halt' sonth, seventeen ami two-
thirds miles.

roO-BKLL AT NEW DUNOENEf<S.

Upon the outer extremity of tlie point a t'oy-bell of eleven hundred pounds
weight has been placed, and is said to be struck by nuiehinery, live blows, at inter-
vals of ten seconds, followed by a pause of ten seconds. In 18G7 the nuiehinery
was out of order, and tlu>, bell was struck by hand, duriu};- foyj,'y or other thick
weather, day and nif^ht. "The strildnj;' nuiehinery is in a frame building, painted
bhiek, with the front open to receive the bell, and raised thirty feet above the
gionud, on an open structure, whitewashed."

Tides. — The approximated corrected establishment is 3/t. 3»j., and the approxi-
mated mean rise and fall of tides 5.0 feet.

Our experience in these waters sugjitests that the light-house building should
bo painted black, or a color most readily made out in fog;." or smoky weather.
Several years since wc urged the advantage of planting ti»es along the spit, to
afitbrd large dark masses, that a lookout might see the danger before being upon
it. A few settlers are now located about the bay.

This harbor was fust examined and made known by Vancouver, who ai)plicd
the present name, in 1792. It is known by no other.

In 185G the United States Coast Survey published a topographical and hydro-
graphic chart of New Duugeness.

Eastward of Duugeness the shore is indented by Washington Harbor, Port
Discovery, and Admiralty Inlet, the northwest point of the entrance to Avhich is
Point Wilson.

WASHINGTON IIARBOB.

Fi'om New Duugeness roadstead to the entrance to this harbor the immediate
shore is low, tlat, covered with trees, and bordered by an extensive mud Hat; but
behind it, at a very short distance, rises a level plateau. The bluff at the north-
east point of the harbor is seen from Duugeness Point. The entrance to the har-
bor is nearly closed by a low sand-spit, stretching across it from the east almost
to the western part, where a narrow channel-way exists, having two fathoms
through it. This cannot be seen from Duugeness Point, which is six and a half
miles northwest, on account of the outAvard curving of the intermediate shore.
Inside of the harbor we found seventeen fathoms. Its width is a little over a mile,
and regular; its length about three miles, and the general direction southeast by
south. One mile outside of the sand-spit a depth of ten and twelve fathoms exists,
deepening rapidly to thirty and thirty-five, with a bottom of stiff mud.

This harbor was surveyed tirst by the United States exploring expedition,

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TKIMJITOKY

1{)3

SCVCIltCCIl

istaiit tliir-

ilt's.

1 iiiid 1 wo-
rd ]t<)iuuls

s, ilt illtlT-

macliineiy
tlii'i- thick
g, painted
above the

e approxi-

ing shouhl
i weather,
he s])it, to
eiug upon

10 applied

ud liydro-

bor, Tort
which is

niuediate
tlat; but
lie uorth-
the har-
t almost
tathoms
d a half
;e shore.
'V a mile,
heast bj;
s exists,

)editiou.

and called IJndd Harbor; but there being a sheet of water in Pnget Sound bearing
a similar mime, we have adojtted Keilet's a|>|)ellatiun. The Indian name of tlie
bay is S'lpiim, by which it is geneially iiuown to the settlers,

(jnimpcr, in 17'.>0, e\))lorcd the harbors in this vicinity, as did (iaiiano and
Valdcs in 17iH.

IMtOTKCTION ISLAND.

T^e western extrennty of this island lies east two thirds south, distant seven
and a half miles from Dungcness light honse, and extends one an<l three ((uarters
miles nortiicast half cast, being nairow, curved outward to the strait, and having a
low point at each end, with shoal water stretching from the western end. Its sides
are very steep, and about two hnndred feet high, the seaward ]»art covered with
tindter, an<I tliat towards Tort Discovery undulating and covcicd willi fern. It
lies two miles directly olf (northwest) the entrance to Port Discovery. On tlu^
inside is found very deep water, but upon the ontside a lin(> of kelp, iil)ont half a
mile out, maiks the fonr-fathom curve, and from this a bank extends north-north-
west for three miles, iiaving from live to (ifteen fatlioms upon it, with a shoal spot
of three and four fathoms two miles from tlie island. It atVords am-horage, with
light airs and strong adverse currents. The bottom is irregulai', and falls otf snd
deidy. U'his shoal has been named the Dallas bank by the Uni' d States C'(tast
Survey.

This island, with P(U't Angeles and New Dungcness, atford flie tiist examph's
of the peculiar feature of low, sandy, and gravelly points, covered with <'oarse
grass and luislies, making ouf fro:n the high elitl"';, where the teudency of strong
currents would seem to be to cut them oil".

It was c'alled Protecti«»n Islaml by Vancouver in 1702, and on account of its
position in relation to Port Discovery is very ai>tly named.

PORT DISCOVEIIV.

From Dungcness light the west side of the entrance to Port Discovery,
called Challam Point, bears east by south one-lifth south, distant nine miles. From
"Washington llarbtu' the distance is four miles. The intennediate shore is com-
posed of high, steep clitfs. Cape George, the eastern point of the entiance, bears
northeast one-cpiarter east one and a half miles from Challam Point, and is a steep
bluff, rising directly from the water. The average width of the bay is nearly one
and three-(piarters miles for nine miles of its length, and then decreases rapidly to
the Salmon river. It makes t"our general courses from tlu- entrance to the head, as
follows: One and three-quarters miles south, four miles east by south two-thirds
south, two and a half miles south by east, and one and three-iiuarters miles south-
west by scmth. The shores are abrupt, and covered with wood to their edges, and
the projecting parts are all terminated by low ]toints stretching out short dis-
tances. On the second point, on the easti'rn side, were (IS-lfi) the remains of an

I i

'«

li>4

COAST riLOT OK WASIIINC.TON TKKIMTOUV.

t'xrciisivo stockiMlcd villiiKf oIIIk' Cliilliiiiis. Moiiiil Cliiilliiim* lies olV tlic soiitli-
wt'stcni pint ofllic l)ii\, jiihI rcaclH's a lu'i;;lit of twrnl.v oiie liiimlri'd \Vv\,

When well ill tliis bay riott'ctioii Island siM'oinplctcl.v shuts up tlic ciitranco
as to iiiaUc it appt-ar as a larj-v lake. Tin- j;r»'at drawback to this port is tlic depth
of water, wliieli, in mid chaiiiu'!, is not less than tweiitylive latlioiiis in any place,
and in some forty fathoms. Under the second low i»oiiit on the east we eoiild not
liiid less than twenty five fathoms a few ship's leiifiths from the beach, but found
;;(i(»d aiichora-ic in twenty fathoms, soft bottom, on the western shore, two miles
soiitiisoiitheast from Challam J'oiiit, and abreast of a low, swampy beach. At the
lioad of the bay it contracts in width, the water shoals, a larjic iiiiul Hat exists for
tlu' last mile, and the shores be<!oiiH' hif-her; but in idaces the hills retreat, and
jjive a scanty space for a few settlers' eal>ins. For a few years after the settling of
San Krancisco many vessels came here for i)iles and s|>ars; bui a sawmill has
been built, and a re;;uliir lumber trade carried on.

It was discovered in 17!M>, by Quimper, and called Port Quadra. In 17!>1 the
Spanish discovery brijj Sutil, Senor Don I). (Jaliano, and the schooner Mexicano,
Sefior Don C. Yaldez, were refitted in this bay.

It was first surveyed and made known by Vancouver in 170L', who refitted his
ships and established an observatory at tlu^ second l(»w point on the western
shore, lie <;iivc it the present name, after one of his ships, and it is known by no
other.

In 18."),"), we tbund on the bliitf back of Challam Point a jireat nunilx'r of
trees that had been twisted off and uprooted by a torna(U> irom the southeast-
ward. The i»rostnited trees wore phiinly visible on the sh>piny hillside, from the
bay.

POINT WILSON.

Tliis is the western i)oint of the entrance to Admiralty Inlet. From Duufje-
ness li<;ht it bears east by north, distant nearly fifteen miles, this course passing-
over the outer edye of the three-fathom shoal (Dallas Dank) otf Protection Island.
The extremity of the \Hnut is composed of low sandy hillocks, covered with coarse
grass; but west of it the hill rises two or three hundred feet, and again falls
inshore. This appearance is well seen in approaching it from the strait, and is a
good mark. Between the point and I'ort Discovery the shore is high, w ith steep
yellow cliffs, and about midway a slightly iirojeeting angle is formed, called .Mid-
dle Point. To the northwest of the ]»oint lifteeu fathoms can be obtained a mile
from the shore, Init the water shoals suddenly, and in running in a fog the lead
must be kept going. Otf the eastern end of the ]>oint twenty fathoms can be
found a slii[»*s length from shore. During el»b tides a- very strong eddy current
sets t() the eastward along shore between Discovery and Point Wilson. In 1855,
when coming out of the hdet on tiie large ebb, with scarcely any wind, we kept

' Niunetl by tlio iriiited HUxU-n Coast Snrvoy in 18.55.

f tlip south-

i'»'t.

lie ciiti'imco

is (luMlfptll

I iiny jdiu'o,
vv could not
I, but loiinil
', two miles
fli. At tlio
it exists for
retreat, iiiid
' settlin;-' of
t\v mill lias

lu ]7!H the
• 31exieaiK»,

rellttod liis
lie western
lown by no

number of

soutlieiist-

1', from the

)ni Duiifte-
se i»assiiig'
on Island,
ith coarse
ifiiiin falls
t, and is a
A ith steej)
idled 31 id-
ie<l a mile
? the lead
IS can be
y curr(>nt
In l,sr>i";,
, we kept

COAST PILOT OF WASrilXfiTOX TKHT?ITOUV.

19;")

outside of the rip sliowiufj the line of tlie eddy. A vessel, two or tliree miles
aiu>ad, was in tiie eddy at the same time. We were carried past Protection
Island, but slie was drifted back to Point Wilson. The Indians, when bound to
Dunf-eness, keep well out in the eltb.

In IS.")?, a small unlinished log hut, called l<'ort Mason, stood upon it.

It received its present nanu' from N'aiicouver, in 17!H.'.

(ii'nirKii I'KNiNsn.A.

Between Port Discovery and Port Townshend lies a peninsula three miles in
breadth and ten miles in hMigth, otVering great advantages as a location for a
town. No name has hitiierto been ajiplied to it, and we have designated it as
above.

For the (h'scrijition of Adnnralty Iidet, Puget Sound, and adjacent waters,
see under the proper hcvdings.

VANCOUVEP ISLAND,

This island was originally called Qtiadia and Vancouver, by the Sjianish com-
man<h'r and Vancouver, who met in tlu; (lulf of (ieorgia, in 17!>U, the former
entering from the nortli, and the latter from the soutli, through the Strait of Juan
de Fuca. The name (^uadia has falleu into disuse.

NORTH SHORE OF THE STRAIT .TUAN I>E VVVA.

From Point P>onilla to Owen J'oint, forming the western head of the entrance
to Port San Juan, the shore runs thirteen nnles east one-thiid north. It is nearly
straight, rocky, and blutf, with high mountains rising immediately behind it, and
all heavily AVoode<l. From ten to twenty fathoms are foumi within half a mile of
the shore. Vessels are ai)t to lose much of the wind when close under either
shore, but the strongest currents run on the American side, as a forty-fathom
bank stretches out from Point Bonilla nearly half way across the strait, while
more than one hundred fathoms are found towards Tatoosh. Point Bonilla was
named Point Duflin, by Meares, after his first officer, who explored this coast.

PORT SAN JUAN.

The eastern head of entrance to this har1)or is formed by several large rocks,
called Ol)servatory Bocks on the admiralty chart of 1847. From Tatoosh Island
liglit they bear northeast by north quarter north fourteen miles distant. Tin; width
of the bay is one and two-thirds miles from i»oint to point, and their bearing east
quarter south, and west quarter north from ea<!h other. The length of the bay is
three and a half miles on a general (bourse northeast three-fiuarters north, aii<l the
width almost uniform at one and a quarter ndles to the very head, where several
streams enter, among which an; Cooper Inlet at the northeast, and the river
Gordon at the north, where stands a iarge Indian village called Onismah.*

* Name on the Euglifjh admiralty cbart, 1847.

-ppp

mmmmm

ii)6

COAST PILOT OP AVASlIl>'(iTON TJvTMMTOllY.

Across tilt' ciitriiiicf' a di-plh of tt'U ratlioiiis is 1'oiiihI, rxccpt near Obsci'vatoiy
]!(»cUs,* ('lost! to wiiicli scvcntci'U I'atlioins arc round. Outside we lind troni
iiliccn to twenty, and inside the l)otloni is v«'i> rejiular in seven to ten fatlioni.s
111' '•' ''"' li<'i'<l) wlieif ii diiTcasfs e\enl.v to lour, witiiin liall' a mile of the slioie.
Tlu' eastern side has the U'asf i iiniber of rocks, and a ini<l-eliaiinel coarse (dears
('veryliiinfi well. In heavy southerly weather a swell rolls stra!<iht in, hut hy
anchoring well np on either side vessels avoid it. The side,> ,■,::■ ;.;ee]t, hiuh, and
backed hy heavily tinii)er((l hills and nmnntains. In \ery dear weather it is
dithcult to distinguish the entrance at a distance, unless one is ac(iuainted with
the locality, hut in moderatelv lia/.v weatlier the "ndenlation is readily made out.
The approxiiuate j;'e,o<iTaphical position of Observatory .liocjks is:

O ' "

Latitude 4S .".1 .".(I north.

Loujiil nde iL'l L'S !,"» wesl.

Meares lirst in)ted this ba.N in his map, and called the Avestei'n jioint Point
ilawksbniv, !) v\as afterwards exaniiutd by the Sjianiards, and \'ancon\('r
stretched over to this shore and plotted it on his chait. It was snrveved bv the
United States explorinj;- exiiedition, in ISll, and by Rellet, in ISIT.

From Observatory Rocks the shore preserves the same features, runninj;' east
in a straijjht line to SheriM}i;ham Point* twentv-three and a half miles, ^vilh somni-
Mi};;'S in iVom six to twei.ty fathoms a nnle from shore, and in sonu' places ten
fathoms at leas! two miles off, then suddenly dnnipin.n' into iifly and sixty
fathoms. Fi-om Sherinj;hani Point, on an east iialf north course to Otter Point*
the distance i^' four and a half miles, with a curve in the shore of one r:ile, but
the shore is jicnerally .so unitbrm in its chaiacter that it is hard to recoj^ni/.e these
jioints in sailing close abreast <jf them.

Hooici; i>;t.f,t.

From Sln^rinsliam Point to Peechey Head* the dkstanee is eleven and a half
miles, and the course east one-(piarter n(»rth. The shore is varied by an indentat ion
one ndle dee[i, called So.ike Pay, and, at a distance of four nules from Otter Point,
is lu'oken by a ver.v narrow, eiookcd entrajiee. Avhich is Sooke Inlet. This leads to
a lav^i'e sheet of N\ater three miles inland, called 8ooke Basin. One mile east of
this iniet is a larjic islet, called Secretary ishind,* ai.d om the western side is a
bright yellow bluff, from which makes out a Ijvv sand spit northeast for half a nnlo
across the entrance. To the east ard of this spit is the i»assaf;e, only one or two
hund'.ed vards wide, with an irrcf^ular and locky bottom, ami sonu- : ";<'cen rocks.
The cnrvents run with j>Teat vdocity, ami a thonuigh knowledge of ,hes(' ard the
channel is ue.-essary to enter this place. When a depth of ten fathoms is struck
(Mf the entiiMH'c, a high ''ill, calleil Mould Alaginre,* will "i<ear about northeast.
It is [>aitiali> covered with trees, hut the bare rock shows dislinctlv in many
places, and this fealurt now ; ommences to distinguish the .southeast part of Van

■ Niiiiic nil till' iMiijlish i((hiiii:iltv i-luirl, l-'IT.

COAST PILOT OF WABJlIN(JTOX TEllRlTOEY.

11)7

)lKSt'rviit(try
i lijid \\\\m
I'll tUtlioins

I' the sin (IV.

;)iiivso clears
in, luit l)y
', lii.uh, iiiid
iitlKT it is
liiitcd witli
liiuk' uiit.

!(> iKirtli.

•"» M<'S|.

mut Point
\'iiiic(>iiv('r
vcd h,v tlie

iniiiip- oasf
illi souini-
j)iiU'cs ten
!»iid sixty
ter P(.iiit*
1 :il(", bid
iiiz<' (Iicso

iiid a lialf
dciitafioii
^el• Poiid,
s leads to
It" CilSt of
side is a
lilt" a mile
le or two
I'll rocks.
' iird the
is struck
iM'tlicast.
ill many
">(' N'aii-

coiivcr Island. The shore in many ]>hices is bare and rocky, with ]Kitchcs of land
covered with fern ■ <1 destitute of trees, and the houses of settlers beyiii to
sipjiear.

Otf Ueechey Head the Avater is very deep, and the currents ^^a hy with a rush.
In this vicinity a t^iiitcd States reveiiue-ciitter touched the bohl shore with her
ll.viiifi- jiliboom, and struck only her forefoot after tlie jib-boom had been cairied
away.

The approximate geojAraphieal position of lieechey Head is:

Latitude 48 IS m north.

Loiifiitiide 12.3 ;j!) 27 west.

The proimuciation of Sooke is exactly like that of the English word "soak."'
The Indian word is T'sok.

]>eecher Day* lies to the eastward of Beocliey TTead. Its general direction is
north, for about a mile and a half, width about the same, and the bottom is rocky
and irregular, with dce]» water. ]\Iany rocky isU'ts are found iijxni the eastern
side of the bay, and two large ones at the northern jiart. The channel runs
between thes<' with about twenty fathoms, and with from seven to ten fathoms
beyond tlie eastern one. Tlie eastern head is formed by (.'ape Churcli.* This bay
is incloseil by high, rocky hills.

HACK KOf'KS.

From r.eechey Head tiie outermost of these rocky islets bears cast by 'lortli,
distant li\(' miles, a'ld its distance from Deiitinck Island,* chise under the main
shore, is one mile. This cluster of islets numbers about ten principal ones, which
coxer an area of not less than half a mile sipiare. They are low, and the larger
ones are covered witii grass, but are without trees or bushes. Stretching s.aith-
east from tiiem for half a mile the liottom is irregular, with jioints of rock in
live fathoms. The currents rush by with great velocity and irregularity, attain-
ing a rate of six miles jicr liour. as we have measured by the Massey h»g. This
is a bad place for sailing vessels when tin' airs are light. The L'ace Clmniicl
lies between the liace l?oeks and J5entiiick island, and is nearly half ii mile wide.
See reinarks in the directions for Es(piimalt and Victoria Harbors from the Kace
Ivocks.

LIOnT-HOtTSE ON KACE noCICS.

The tower on the Great Race has an elevation of one hundred and eighteen
feet above high water, and since the tirst day of Octolu'r ISlit, has lieeii paintcil
in alternatt' broad horizontal bands of l)lack and white.

The liglit is a ivhHc li(jlit, slioichtf/ o hri<jlif Jht.sh everv ten seconds. The ilium
inating apparatus is of the secoinl order of Frcsnel, and was tirst exhiliited Jan-

'Niniin HI tlir I'.iinlisli inbiiiiiillv iliiiil. IS47.

■HP

198 COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TERRITOKY.

uary 1, 1S(>1. UmU'i' a favoraMo state of the atiiios]»li(.n'(> it should 1h' seen t'lom a
beife^lit of —

10 feet at a distanco of 1(1.1 miles.

L'O feet at a distaiiee of 17.0 miles.

."() feet at a distaiiee of 18.S miles.

The <i-eoj;i'ai)liieal positiou of the liyht as determined Ity the Tiiited States
Coast Survey is:

Latitude 4S J 7 .">!»..■» north.

Lonj-itude 123 M I'.J.O west.

h. m. K.

Or, in time ... 8 li ()!..■>.

Computed mafrn 'tie variation 22'^ Of east in JSOl.

From r.ace KoeUs the strait opens to the northward, and wi' have the follow-
ing bearings and distiinees to several imi)ortant positions:

Escpiiinalt IFarbor light, north eight and a half miles.

Entrance of Victoria Harbor, north by east half east, nine miles.

Triiil Jshinds, northeast by north, ten and a half miles.

Discovery Island, northea.st by north, liftet.i miles.

Smith's Island light, northeast by east three-^iuarters east, twenty-six and a.
half miles.

New Dnngeness light, east eighteen miles.

Ediz Hook light, southeast three-(iuarters east, ten and a half miles.

From IJace Itocks the shore is very much broken to Fs(|uiinait llarltor. lirst
by a narrow deep inch'iitation called Tedder Bay,* its inatiiern i»oint called
William Head;* then Farry IJay* and Albert Head;* and just before reaching
Esquimau, a long, low s])it, with a salt lagoon behind it. Along this shore the
ebb cnrrent runs with great strength, the water being from forty to lil'ty fathoms
deep, and the general set towards the l{ace Islands.

DIllKCTIONS FOU FSQUIMALT AND VICTORIA IIAKBOR.S FROM TUE RACE ROCKS.

The Race Rocks tower can be distinctly seen at a distance of twelve miles.
On nearing it, vessels should round it at a distance of not less than from half ,i
laile to a mile. The outeiniost danger is a rocky ])atch of live feet, lying south-
east by east, nearly half a mile from the tower.

On rouiuling the Rocks Escpiimalt Harbor lixed Avhite light Mill be seen, and
should be steered tor on a bearing north half west, which will lead clear of the
reef extenditig a short distance olV Albert Head. Iveej) the bright white light in
full view. If a vessel gets loo far to the westward it will api)ear dim, and shortly
become sliadcd (/nrii. when she sjionld immediately steei' to tlm eastward until it
again shows blight. This precaution is necessary an account of Hie i'lirrents,
which, during sluing tides, run as niucli as six knots in the neighborhood of the

"Nitiiic (III tlio English lulmiralty ihai1, 1847.

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TER^JITORY.

199

Eace Eof'ks. The ('T)b runs almost in a direct lin;> from the Canal do Ilaro to the
rocks, and sets between tlieiu and the sliore. There arc also tide rips in tho
vicinity dangerous to boats and small craft.

Wlien to the northward of Albei't Head, and wishin<;- to anchor in lioyal T.ay,
a vessel should brin<;- Esquimalt !ij;lit (o be;!!- north by west, wlien she will havvi
ten fathoms, with yood holding- ground, about one mile from tlie ligiit; or, if
desired, she may stand to the westward until the light becomes shaded green,
■when she should immcUdtch/ anclior.

In entering Esriuimalt Harbor, the light should be left from three to four
hundred yards on the port haml, and when it bears south by west a ship may
anchor in seven fathoms, or stand into Constance Cove, (N'illage Eay.) AN'Ihmi tho
light bears northwest by west it changes from bright white to red, and shows tho
hitter color in the harbor.

In entering Esquimalt from the eastward, the light sliould not be steered for
until it shows lu'igiit white, which is the mark for clearing Erotchy Ledge olf
Victoria, and Scrogy Eocks off Esipiimalt. When the light changes from red
to bright white it leads clear of the Scrogy Eocks about one hundred and twenty
yards.

The course for the entrance to Victoi-ia Harbor, aft 'r rounding the Eace
i-'-ht. is north three-quarters east; and when Es<iuimalt light changes from
• ■ ight Avhite to red, a vessel will be one mile from tin- shore in thirty-three
fathoms.

Ships, however, above the size of coasters, unless ac(iuainted with tlm
neighborhood, are recommended not to run for Victoria at night, when thev
cannot enter, but rather to anclun- in Eoyal Bay for daylight. With southeasters
and stormy weather a ship should invariably run into Es(|uimalt Ilarlior, which
she can readily do with the assistance of the light on Eisgard Island.

The light-house is erected on Eisgard Island, on the western side of
the entrance to Escpumalt Harboi'. It consists of a keeper's dwelling of brick
with a tower fifty-seven feet in height, whitewashed, and surmounted l)y a lantern
l)ainted red.

The i'Huminating apparatus is of the fourth order of the system of Fivsnel,
and shows a _fi.irtl icliilr liijht, visible through an arc of l.'2()o of tiu' horizon.
Thiough -MiP it exhibits a green light, through Tyi^'^ a l»right white light, and tiirougij
142° a red liigiit. li will show (fncn when beai'ing lietween noitli by east
two-thirds east and north oneciuarter west, irhilc \'von\ north one-qnarter west to
n.u'thwest by west one-third west, and nd towards the harbor, or from north-
west by west one third west to south southeast.

It is jilaced at an elevation of seventy feet abo\e (he IcncI of the sea at high
water, and in favorable states of the atnu)s|)here sliould be visilde from a
hei«ht f»r—

10 feet at a distance of I;!.L! miles.

Jfi feet at a dist; re of M.7 miles.

;gpl

■■

200 COAST PILOT OF WASIIINfJTON TERlllTOEY.

Tho apin'oxiinato geogTiiphical position of tlic light is:

Latitude 4S 25 .'58 north

Longitiuhi IL'.'? 1*7 10 west.

II. III. s.

Or, in tinu' 8 13 -18.7.

Computed magnetic variation 22° 05' east in ISGl.

The light was tirst exhibited November 10, 18(50.

Esquimau Harbor is where all the British men-of-war lie, and eontains a small
naval dock-yard, called J{o,yal J'ay.* The entrance is a ((uarter of a mile wide, and
has two rocky heads on either hand, the westein head having Fisgardf Island otV it,
and the eastern having outlying sunken rocks south of it, with several islets. From
the entrance the general direction of the bay is north-northwest, and the extreme
length two miles. After passing the heads, the harbor o])ens to tiu' cast,
foiming a small beautiful bay, called Village Bay, or Ccmstance Cove, where
men-of-war anchor in a uniform de])th of six fathoms. In the entrance are
seven and eight fathoms, and the approaches for a mile give from ten to thirteen
fathoms.

At the head of the harbor i." ]\Ioinit Seymour.*

Five miles west of the head of Es([uimalt Bay is the head of a large bay
conung from the north, and openi-g into the inside channel to the; Nanaimo
(Nahny'moh) coal mines.

VICTOKIA IIARROR.

The entrance to this haroor is two and a quarter miles east of Escpiimalt.
As the channel is very contracted, crooked, and obstructed with a ten-feet bar,
A'essels usually anchor outside in ten or liltcen fatlionis, taking care to avoid
Brotchy Ledge,* with only seven feet of water upon it, lying about half a
nule south-southeast of tin; eastern head, and soutiiwest threc-(|uarters west
from Mount Beacon,* upon which was a range with one on the shore. AVe
believe, however, that the ledge has been marked by a s])ar buoy since our visit
there. The i-liainiel inside is well niarki'd oiil by buoys, but a pilot is neeessary to
carry a vessel in. Tlie wliole Icnglh of tlie harbor is about tliicc or tour niib s,
with an avei'age width of one-lit'th of a mih'. It is very tortuons, and the
head stretches west nearly to the head of Ksquimalt Uay, where a portage
exists.

The ai)proaches to the liaibor ai'c deejt outside of Brotfliy Ledgi\ and iU'ohi
ten to twenty fat bonis are Ibiind inside of it. Tin- ^iiores adjacent uir lo%, ^mt
rocky and (overed in ]»art witli trees, lemiiidiig ir:ie of the i'o;k\ parN ni" i:fe«
coast of Massachusetts and Maine.

The United States Coast Survey est4iUliHhe(l an aHtronomieal ^^aifrmii on the

•Niiiiic (111 (lie Kiiirlisli iidiiiii'iilty cliiiii, 1H.17.
tl',n"lisli cliiiilN (if Ir^.")! (•nii it F'isJijiiKiid.

38 north
LO west.

IS. 7.

MS a siiiiill
w i(U', jiud
land off it,
ts. From
e extreme
the east,
vo, Avliere
vam'Ai are
thirteen

large bay
2sanaimo

squimalti
i-feet bai',

to avoid
t iialf a
;ers west
ore. We

oni" \ isit
cssar.v to
iir mills,

and I lie

IKU'tago

nd l<!'t»Mi
h>>*, iMit

n eu the

COAST PILOT OF WASfimGTON TERRITORY. 201

narrow neck known as Laurel Point, at tlie south side of the inner jiart of the
entrance to the iiarbor. The j;('ogTai>iiical position of tliis station is:

Latitude 4S -jr, .WAi

Lonyitu(h' 12;> L'(» .JS.T

li. III. «.
Or, in time .S l;i L'i*.(!

The town of Victoria lias j^rown very rapidly since tlie dcvelo])m('nt of the
j>()ld-(ields on Frazir River, and rej^idar steamers ply between Victoria and the
Columbia Ri\ er, port,* on Paget Sound, and towns on Fra/A-r Ri\ er.

TKIAL ISLANDS.

These islands lie four miles east-southeast from the eutran(;e of Victoria
Iiarbor, witii a rocky, irregular, and ii>"'V .njly low shore. The ishinds are small
in extent and about eighty feet hit'i; tlie currents set by tlicm witli great
velocity.

DISCOVKIIV AND CHATHAM ISLANDS.

The former of these two islands lies two and a half miles olf the southeast
point of Vancouver Island, ft is about a niih' in extent, two hundred and tliiity
feet high, partially covered with trees, and consists of granite I'ock, which shows
in places Avithout a ])article of vegetation.

Northwest of it, and separated by a narrow and intricate channel full of
rocks, lies Chatham Island, ((Composed of several small islets,) s(»mewliat smaller
in extent, and not so high as Discovery Ishuid, but simihir in appearance and for-
mation. Ijctween these two islands and Vancouver lies an extensive! bay nearly
iilled with rocks and •eefs, the main bod.v being called the (.'hain Islands, which
are about thirty fe(»t high. (Jlose around the western side of Discovery and Chat-
ham is a chaniu'l, having I'rom seven to seventeen fathoms, but it is only lit for
small craft. From the western i)art of Chatham to Cadbiu'ough Point the
distance is about tliree-(piarters of a mile. Numerous rocks sliow close to the
point.

The United States Coast Survey have a trigonometrical station on the sum-
mit of Discovery Island. Its geographical position is:

Latitiuh' 48 2.j SUA

Longitude VS.i l.'{ (10.5

h. III. n.

Or, in time s U) r>-2A

A light-house is much needed upon Discovery Lsland, as uiarking the soutl|-
west point of the southern entrance to the Canal de Ilaro.

The islaiiils were named by Kellett, after Vancouver's two sliijis.
20*

'4 fT'

202

COxiST PILOT or WASHINGTON TEHKITOIIY.

SMITHS ISLAND.

The only isliiiul lying' broadly in the Hlrnit ot'Fuca is Smith's Island, near the
eastern termination of the strait, within six miles of Whidbcy Island, and seven
miles broad oft" the scmthern entrance to the Kosario Stiait. It is (jnite small, not
oeenpying' half a square mile, and rises regularly from the eastern to the western
extremity, where it attains a height of about fifty-live feet, Avith an almost per-
l)endieular clitf of clay and gravel. It sustained a few dreary looking trees, but
none of great thickness or height, and the surface is covered witli a growth of
bushes ten or twelve feet high. There is no fresh watei' to be found ou the island,
and two or three feet below the surface is a stratum of hard, dry clay with
pebbles.

A Aery small, low islet called Minor,* exists one mile northeast of Smith's
Island, and at very low tides, is connected with it by a luirrow ridge ,ji boulders
and rocks. A field of kelp extends to the Avestward of Smitii's Island for
oiu' and a half miles, and has a Avidth of a mile. In sailing tlirough this
field Ave finind the depth of Avater very uniform at six and a half fathoms, and
in no J). .ice did Ave get less. The bottom is hard and sandy, and no rocks
have been discovered in it. Another smaller field is seen to the Avestward of the
one.just nientioiu'd. (jood anchorage is found on the nortli side of the islaml, east
of the kelj), in from ten to five fathoms, and on the south side, east of the kelp,
in from ten to eight fathoms, hard bottom. We parted our cable here in a
southeast gale, but the smooth sandy bottom enabled us afterwards to secure the
anchor. Off the eastern end of the small islet, very deej) water is tbund close to
shore,

LKIHT-HOUSE ON SMITH'S ISLAND.

This stiucture consists of a keeper's dwelling, Avitli a tower rising through
it, and surmounted by an iron lantern painted red. Its height is forty-one
and a half feet above the surface of the grount, , and about ninety feet above the
mean level of the sea. Tlie dwelling and towc are plastered and whitewashed,
and situated on the highest part of the islaml, near the southwest jioint.
All the trees lune bcjn cut down to allord a clear horiz •n in every direc-
tion. The illuminating apparatus is of the fourth order of Fresii<'l, shows a
rcvolriii;; irhite Uyht^ with a Jiash ccenj half minute, and shoulil Ite seen from a
height of —

10 feet at a distance of 14i miles.

20 feet at a distance of 10 i\iiU's.

'M) feet at a distance of 17 miles.

It was first exhibited on the 18th of Oetober 1858, and shows from sunset to
sunrise.

Niiiiii'il Ity till? Uiiiti'd Sj^itfH Coimt .Survt'v in lf*54.

1, iH'iir tlie
iiiid scvcu
small, not
U' wcstpiu
111 lost jier-
trct's, but
j^rowtli of
'lie island,
clay Avith

af Siiiitli's
f boulders
slaiid for
wiijili this
lonis, and

no rocks
ii'd of the
land, cast

the kelp,
lierc in a
secure tho
d close to

■ through
forty-one
d)ove the
ewashed,
st jioint.
'ry dire(!-
shows ii
n from a

sunset to

COAST PILOT OF \VASJIIX(JTON TKKIUTOKY. 203

The {jeo{irai)hi(!al position of the light, as determined by the Coast Survey is :

Latitude 48 1!) 11.0 north.

Longitude Jl,'2 r»0 1 LI west.

h. m. K.
Or, in time 8 11 liO.T

The light shows into the entrances of Canal de ilaro, Rosario Strait, and
Admiralty Lilet, and out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

The following bearings and distances will show the relative position ol' Smith's
Island:

F^rom Discovery Lsland it lies east .sixteen and a half miles.

From L'ace Island light, northeast by east three-cpuirters east twenty-six and
a half miles.

From ^o\v ])ungenes.s light, northeast by north thirteen and two-thirds miles.

From Point Wilson, northwest half ncnth eleven miles.

From southwest point of the entrance to Itosario Strait, south half east six
and two-thirds miles.

This island was discovered by Eliza in 1701, and named Isla de Bonilla.

Vancouver gave it no name.

It was called JUunt's Island by the United States exph)ring expedition in
1S41.

Called Smith's Island on the English admiralty chart of 1847, and is geu-
erally known by either.

BAKKS A>'D FIELDS OF KELP IN STRAIT OF FUCA.

Partridfjc Bank. — Three miles south half east of Smith's Island, is the north-
Avesteru jioint of a tield of kelp over a mile long by a mile wide. Through it
the soundings range from six to twelve fathoms, and the Imnk stretches off to the
east-southeast for two miles, with ten and twelve fathoms upon it. It is on tho
prolongation of the shore line from Admiralty Head to Point Partiidge, and with-
out doubt a ]>art of the shoal stretching five miles west three-quarters north from
that point. Inside tlu' kelp it is generally known as a ten-fathom bank, with
Bimldy bottom. We have run across it with these soundings, but recent [tartial
examinations show spots with live and nine fathoms ujion it. This locality
re(]uires sounding out, as it would lu'ove a great advantage for vessels drifting at
the mercy of the currents to know of the existence of such anchoring grounds.
The detaihul hydrography of all this sheet of water, eastward of the llace Islands,
will dcNi'lo]! many interesting features of bottom.

Hem littkk. — IJeariug Avest half south from Smith's Island, and eight miles
distant, is another Held of keli» nearly a mile in extt'iit. We came unexpectedly
u]>on it at night, in 18.")4, during a heavy blow with rain. It was not then
marked on any chart. Next morning we sounded through it, and found the depth
of water \ ery uniform at live fathoms, with hard, saudy bottom.

^mn

204

COxVST PILOT OF AV'ASIIIMJTON TERUlTOltV,

l'<^('<Mit i)iirtiiil cxiniiiiiutioiis show that this fit'hl iiiiirlvs tho iiorthoast jcnt of
tlic hank lyiii;:' nearly north and sontli, witli a h'nj;tli of four niiU's, and a hrcadtli
of one and a lialf inih' witliin llir limits of the twenty-fat honi line, and tliat the
least water found aiaoiiu' ttie kelp is three and a half fathoms, where IMuut's
Tshiiid lij^ht hears ahont east Iiveei,i4htlis north and New Dnnjicness altout south
T»y east (|uarter east.

We mimed this hank in lS,"iL

III the l]u,i;lisli Admiralty Ciiait No. 1017, j)id)lishe(l in 1S(m, it is called
Ponte Ihink.

The field hiid d(»wii on the admiralty chart of 1817 — nearly on this course,
and lour miles from Hinitli's Island, liavinj;' only two fathoms marked upon it —
has been soii^^ht for, hut not louiid, it is not laid down on the IJritish Admiralty
("hart No. I'.HI, with corrections to 1S(m.

)S((Ii)i()H Bidil: — One mile south of the southeastern point of San Juan Island,
and eiyht and a half miles northwest by west oiie-(piarter west from Smith's
Island, lies a small lield of kelp, about half a mih^ square, with rliret, fathoms
marked upon it; but we have been intbrmed that the Hudson !>ay Com-
l)aiiy''s steaiiu'r Otter found as little as siv feet of water within its limits. Jieceiit
t^xaminati'Mis show that this is oonnected by a four-fatliom hank with the south-
east end of Sail .luan Island, and stretches sourh-soiitheast therefrom tor two and
a half miles, with a breadth of three-quarters of a mile within the limit of the
ten-fathom line.

All these fields and patches of kelj) should be avoided, as they denote rocky
bottom; and isolated jioints of rock frequently exist anion};' them, and escapes
oven a very scrutini/iii};' survey.

Middle JUiiil; — East by north five and a half miles from Discovery Island, and
>snuth by west one-third west four and a half miles from the Jludson Ihiy Com-
pany's settlement (»n San Juan Island, is an eleven-fathom shoal, a mile or two iii
extent; but the very few soundiiifjjs upon it leave the precise extent and smallest
depth of water doubtful, (1S,">7.)

Iiccent i)artial examinations show that the extent of this bank is about two
and a half sipiare miles witliin the limits of the twenty-fathom line.

Coitstaiur Bmil:, — Northeast half north seven and a half miles from Ivaeo
Ivoeks, and southeast by south tour miles from the entranoe to Victoria Harbor, aro
n couple of spots showini; nine and thirteen fathoms.

AUCIIirELAGO 1)E IIAUO IN WASIIINCrTON SOT'ND.

This extensive i>ronp of islands was first seen by Lopez (lon/.ales de Ilaro, in
17.S0; next by (^uimper, in 171)(>; and first circuinnavi}:;ated by Don Francisco
Eliza, in 17!>1. Vancimver, in 17!>2, ])assed throunih the Hosario Strait from the
south, anil ,ui^es a jiood representation of the clianiiel and islands, his loats evi-
dently woikinji' amonu' them, (laliano and Vahles, in I71IL.*, about a month later
than Vancouver, j)assed thi'oii;ili one of the straits from the north, and rei>resented

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEERITOKY.

2or)

tlic muss of isliiTids as one wliicli tlicy (losiji'iiiitt'd Isla do San Juan. Tlio a^rcnts
and Cactors of the Hudson Bay (company, donhtlcss, knew most of the channels
and islands snbseqncntly; still, up to is.-i.!, they cxliihitcd only cye-skctclics of the
Canal de llai'o, noMh and east of Sidney Island. In 1811, the Cnited States
exi»lorin,i; e\pediti<»ii made the reconnaissance of the archiiu'la^o, but did not lay
down I lie islands on the western side of tlii' Canal de llaro. The IJosiirio Sliait
was .su\veyed, and called IJinjfji'old's Channel. Most of liie islands, cliannels,
]ioinls, vS;c., were mimed after ollicers and vessels of the navy, and it is said to
have been intended to call the whole j;roup the Navy Archi])ela,i;(). The Canal de
Ilaro is crioneously called the Canal de Arro.

The Canal de Ilaro and Itosario Strait were surveyed by the Cnited States
Coast Snr\<'v in JS,->.'! and IS-lt.

CANAL 1)1 : II AUG.

The southern entrauco to this strait may be said to lie between Discoveiy Island
and the j,.)int of iJellevue or San .Inau Island,* nearly noi'theast and seven miles
distant. Starting from this lim>, and about three miles from Discovery, a course
northwest by uoith for sixteen miles will run throuuii the lirst stretch of the strait;
thence an abrupt turn is inade towards the eastwaid, and the way out can be
readily seen between the islands. The next course is northeast half east for
eleven miles; finally, north-uorthwest two and a half miles; and a run of seven
miles on that course will cany a vessel into the middle of the (iulf of (leor^ia.

Commencinjj' at the startinj;' point, we have San Juan Lshtml on the eastward,
and ])ass it at the distance of one and a half miles. Its mountains rise (o one
thousand and seventy feet, and sonu' of them are only partially cov<'red with
wood. The l)lulfs are very precipitous and inaccessible, and the dei)th of Avater
close to them is as much is one hundred and titty fathoms. The yi; ater
extent of the strait is to the westward, stretchiuft' olf into bays and itassaj^-es
amonj;' the islands. Cordova Bai/i is the only available anchorajio about this
entrance. It commences at Cordon Head live and a half miles northwest by
Avest one-quarter west from Discovery Island; then stretches westward for two
miles, and gradually curv(>s to tlu' north-northwest, with a long high blutl', broken
and bright, a,. Coirichin llcad.X Ijack of the southwest pait of the bay rises a bold
rocky-toi)i)ed hill named .l/o»»^ />o»///«,s'§ which reaches a height of six hundred
and tiiiu'ty feet. Fresh water is obtainable on the southern slun'os of the bay.
The northern limit of the bay is Barey Inland,^ north one-quarter west four miles
from Cordon Head, and on this course, and oiu' and three-(juarters miles from the
head, is Zero h'ock,i a small white rock, showing a IVw h'ct above watci', with jtlenty
of water around it, but foul bottom and a patch of kelp a few hundred yards north-

*\iiiiii'(l Siiii JiiMii cm Kii;;lisli mlniiriilty cImiIs of 1SI7 ;uiil l-^.')'.»: lii-llcviic hy Ilic HihIshu liMy
Coniliiiuy ; Ko(l;;i'rs by the I'liitcd Sr.itcs (•\^ll(>^ill<^■ rxitcditioii, 1^11.

tEiiiilisli iidiniriiltx cliiirl, I>'ir. On thiit ofl-.V.I Cmildsa Buy is rnUcd ('(.niKiraiil liny.
t Fi-oiii the 11:11111' 111' llir IiidiMii tiilir ill lliis viiiiiily. .\diiiii:illy iIkiiI, l^l7.
j Ailiiiiriilty iliart, istT.

20(5

COAST PILOT OF WASIIINGTOX TEUIMTOIIV.

iiortliwcst of it. A mile iiiid ;i fimutcr west of it is ;i smikcii lock. In llic itiiy ;i
(li'ptli of not over t\v('iit\ riillioiiis is foiiiKl, dccrriisiii.^' iircj;ii!;iii.v in a<lv;iiicin;;',
but in tiio southern portion iilVordin^' ciipiliii iioldinji;' in ten rutlionis. A mile iind
a hidrt'i'st soiitiiciist from (lordon Head arc iiatclicsof kelp and foul iiottoni.

Wlieii eiiilil and a lialf miles within the entiaiM-e the width of tiie strait
decreases to three and a cpiarter miles, haviii}"' Darcy Islaiul (low and wooded) on
the Mcst, Avitli a snudi islet off its uortlieast face, and very lar^ic lields of kcli>
strelehin,ii' far olf the southeast point into the canal. In one of tlu'se lields we dis-
(■oveved in IS.VI a sliarp-jiointed rock, whi-li has been iianu-d (';(/7 h'acl:.* It lies
east l>y south live-ei;;liths south from the southeast i)oint of Darcy Island, and dis-
tant from it tliree-(|uarters of a nnle. The saudI, sharp ajx'v of this rock rises
about three feet above the very lowest tides. In recent charts deep water is placed
around it, and when the Coast Survey brig' ranntleroy beat throuj;h the IW-ld, the
existence of this dauj;'er was unknown.

Since this discovery several rocks, coveriuj;' a s])ace of half a mile s(niare, on
the same bearinj;' from the southeast ])oint of Darcy Island, have been found.
They are marked by a Held of kelp, and oiu' jtoint uncovers at the lowest tides.
Xear nud-chaunel a dei)th of one liundrccl and lifty-live fathoms is found.

The island to tlu' eastward, nearly abroa.st of Darcy, with a small cove at its
southern end, is Jlcnrii .Island^ havinj;' a hij;h, rocky, precipitous front, and a swirl-
inj;' current around it. Further on, and to the westward, is the southeast eml of
lSi(l)i('!f Lshdtdl one and a half miles niuthward of Darcy, with the Dot IJocks
between them, but near Sidney. This island is not hi,i.',h like those on the other
si(h' of the clianuel, and a landinii' is easily made at any |)oint. The channel here,
ten ndles from the entrance, is two and tlirce-(jnarter miles wi(h'. To the eastward
it ojuMis beyond the north end of Henry Island, with high nu)untaiu()us islands
bounding the view. To the westward lie a couple of long, narrow islands, a mile
from Sidney Islaiul, and between them and the latter is good anchorage, and ca])i-
tal lishing ground for halibut. The island lu'ar the eamd is named llalibut Island.*
The nioderatel.x low, wooded islands, llvree or four miles ahead, and on the western
side of the channel, have not been named, lietween them runs the inside channel
for steamers to ^^anaiuu» coal miiu'S. The background of the view is occupied by
wooded islands, (nerliippiug each other and appearing lik(! a continuous shore.
The large high island on the (sastern side, lifteen miles from the entraiu'e, is Stuart
J.s7rt)u/,t and the canal is here contracted to a breadth of oidy two miles, this being
the narrowest part. T-.iO ami one-eighth iniles west-southwest fr.>m the western
point of Stuart Island, the IJritish surveying steamer I'bunper found (l.S.")S) a rock
covered at a (piarter Hood, ami having irregular bottom around it for the space of
half a mile s(pian', with soundings from live to twenty fathoms. One mile north-
west of Stuart Island a depth of one hundred and ninety fathoms is found.

Stuart Island, in many places, is very high and precipitous, and covered with

*Xaiii.il li,\ llu' riiitcd .States Coast Survey, 1^54.
t>»'aiiie(l liy llie I iiiteil States exploring exiK'ditioii, |S41.
t The name luj the lOimlisti adiiiiraltv eliart. 1S47.

COAST PILOT OK WASIIIN(!TOX TKinnTOKV.

207

tiiiilior, but in some parls siniisdy. Near its .soiitliwcst lu'iul a pciixMidicular wall
of rock st'ivcs also to »listiii;;iiisli it. Af'tri' |»assiii<>' tin- wi'slcni cikI of this island
at the (listaM('(! of a mile, tin' dianncl takes an altrui>t turn to the eastward, and
tlic (Inll'oC (Icoiji'ia is seen. Tin' course now is nortlieast liall' east for eleven
miles, liaviuf^' on tlie northwest side Sntunut Jshoul, which ris«'s into nionntains.
Jora Haul,* near its eastern extremity, stands u|) perpendicularly lu'arly seven
hundred feet, but the extreme part, called Eitxt roiiit,^ is a loufi' slopinj^' point, in
many i»laces destitute of trees. The small island lyinjioff its nctrtli shore is TundK).t

On the east side the waters open Avell t(» the southeast, aiul the islands rise in
hi^li hills and mountains. The laryo island abreast of ,1a \ a Head is Mltl<ln>)i,\
which has j^^ood anchorage otf its soutiiwest side, where the shor<' line curves well
lu. The western point is low and sandy; the southern, called Point Di.siifi/J is
perpemliculai', liijih, and I'ocky. Olf its northei'n face lie two islets, called Shlpjitch-
Jnhinds.^ The western one is about one mile from Waldron, moderately hij^li, and
■wooded; the eastern is smaller, about forty feet hij>h, destitute of trees, but cov-
ered with f;i'ass, and lies a mile east of the t'ornu'V. lU'twcen these lies a sunken
rock, and the current rushes by -with ji'reat velocity.

On some recent majis two islands called Adolphus and (ieoi'nc are laid down
close to the Skipjacks, but in IS,").'! we examined the vicinity and satistied oiUoclves
that they did not then exist.

When East Point bears northwest by Avest throe-quarters west, two miles dis-
tant, the ■west end of lottos rshtiidi will bear northiioithcast two ami a half miles,
and the west end of the l^iicvt (ir())ij)\\ east-northeast three and a half miles; the
course outlvin^' north-northwest, between Patos and East Point, which are two
and three-fourl^s miles a])art. Seven miles on this course carries you to the mid-
dle of the Gulf of GeiU'jiia. Close otT Ivist Point is found a depth of one liuiidred
and twenty fathoms, and oft" Patos Lsland one hundri'd and seventy fathoms. All
these islands are moderately hi^h and covered with wood. They are ruy,ii'ed and
irregular, composed of sandstone and conj;ionu'rate, upheaved until the strata are
nearly perpendicular in some ])Iaces, and interspersed with small veins of lij^nite,

H>.s7'.s' Ji<(iil,-'i\ lies southwest by west seven-eighths west one mile from the
southwest ])oint of Siicia ; it has less than two fathoms uinin it, and is marke .;
by a larft'c nmss of kelj).

The approxinuite j;eojirai)hical position of two or three points, as determined
by the LTnited States Coast Surve^\, will servo to check the (lourses above {•iven:

'NiiiikmI liy tlif riiltcd StiilcH ('Xi)l(>iiiij;- cxindif idii in Hll. On llii> T^iinli^^li iiiliniriilty cliait
()l'ia')i» it is ciilliMl M,.!..i:.li Head.

tXamccl l)y til • I'liili'il States cxiilorinj; ('X|)iMlitii)ii, l-'ll.

I Si> callcil 1)\ di." r I'ti'd states ('xi)li)iiiin' cxiii'iiitiiiii in l>ll. Named WikmIciI Island and
Bare Island by I'm* d S'.aies Coast Survey iji !<>:!.

\U>lil Spanish 'ia.,1''. (.'alleil (ionrd lslan<l liy the t'luted Stales explniinu; expedil icm, I-^ll.

II Old Spanish uaiiie. Siieia siirnilies muddy. The harhov <in the east has a soft mnddy lioltdni.
'I'lu^ I'nited Stati'-i ex,dorini;' expedition railed them the I'eleival (iriiup, 1-^tI. The Indian name is
ChiiD-sii-nnnji;.

^ DiseovfM'od and uaiiied l>y the I'nited Stales Coast Snivey. IS.'iS. Called riiim]ii r Keel' on
I'.nglish adiinralty eliait, Is")',!.

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IMAGE EVALUATION
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Sciences

Corporation

93 WIST MAIN STRIET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(716) 873-4503

L17

208

COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TEliTlITORY.

Coast Survey station, on the suiiiinit of Discovery Island, latitudo 4ii3 20f
36".4 north; lonjiitude VS'fi VV 2t»".r> west.

West point of Stuart Island, latitude -ISo -il' 17"..") north, longitude 12;5=| 14',
29".G west.

West point of Patos Islan<l, latitude 4.SO 47' O;$",lon^--itude iL'l-'o r^' ai".2 west.

The number of islands, and the intricate channels lyin^' between the two straits,
we shall not attempt to describe. A pntper appreciation of them can only be
obtained from the chart. The ])ositions of the islauils are shown on sketches issued
from the Coast Survey ofllce in 1854 aiul l.sr>8.

KOSAKIO STRAIT.

This strait was first seen by (iuimper from Tort Discovery, and called " Boca
de Flon." From Tnttectiou Island he could see through the whole length of the
strait; he could not see Deception Pass from there.

Eliza passed through it in 17!H, and called it the Can-al de Fidalgo.

Vancouver passed through it in 17UL', and gives its peculiarities very well.

(Jaliano ami Valdes caiiu', through it in 17!L', and called it Canal de Fiihdgo.

The United States e.\i>loring expedition, in 1841, called it Kinggold's Pass
Channel.

The English admiralty chart of 1847 has it llosario Strait, and by this name
it is always known on the Pacilic.

liosario Strait is the eastern of the two principal channels running through
the Archipelago de Uaro, between Vancouver Island and the main. Its southern
entrance lies north by east, distant seven miles from JJlunt's Island, and is four
and a quarter miles wide. The western point of the entrance is formed by a
point running out from WatmoiKjh JIea<l,* which is four hundred ind lifty feet
high, and on the southeast part of Lopez JslandA Oil' this point lie several rocky
islets, with deep water among them and a rushing current. Tin; outer one, nauu'd
Southwest Island,^ is about lifty feet high, rocky, Hat-topped, destitute of bush or
tree, narrow, and about <tne-third of a mih^ in length, east and west. Kast five-
eighths south from it, at a distance of half a mile, lies Jhiridson Ji<ivh\^ possi-
bly bare at the lowest ti(h's. A patch of kelp exists upou ami around it, but the
kelp is generally run under the surface of the water by the strength of the
current.

The whole southern face of Lopez Island is guarded by locks and reefs. The
island itself is very rocky ami moderately low. On part of iis southern bluff we
discovered, in 1854, deep nuirks of glacial action.

• Named WatnioiiKli llfiiil hy the United States explorini^ expeditiim in 1^41. On the fii-Ht
slieetH of tlie United StateMCoiiHi Snrvey called \\ iilniiin;{li li.'ad. On the l'^n;<li.Hh aihniralty ehait
of Id'iD ealled Walniiintli Mill. The Indian rianje is NoD-eliaad-Kwnn,

t Vaneouvta' deleiinined it to he an iHhiud in \T.t'i. In 1."'41 the I'nited States explorinjj; exi)e-
dition mimed It C'hanneey's Island. EnKlinh adnumlty uhurt of ISit huH it Lopez Ishuid ; iiiid it in
always known hy lids name on the eoast.

t Nanu'd hy the I'nited States Coast Snivey in ISM.

^ Named on the 1'',n^;lish adndndty chart of IKV.).

' «^Vi

COAST PILOT OF WASIIINCrrON TKUKI TOltV.

209

le HP L'5'

) 123° 14',

!1".2 west,
wo straits,
111 only be
lies issued

ed " Boca
ftli of the

y well.
Fidiilgo.
old's I'ass

this uaiue

>• through
4 southern
lid is lour
•11 led by a
lilty feet
n-al rocky
lie, named
»f bush or
Kust tive-
t7.,§ possi-
t, but the
h of the

'efs. The
bluff wo

Ml tli(> (irnt
iiiiltj I'liiiit

il ; and it in

On the eastern side of the entrance is a Kiiiall wooded island called Deception
Island, at the mouth of Deveption I*ass, an iiitricat(^ and very narrow tliree-
fathom chaniH'l, three miles lonj;-, runniiiji- between tiie iiorlli end of Widliey Isl-
and and the south end of Fiihiltjo Island.'^ In IS II the I'nited States bri;,'
Bainbrid}^ei>assed throuj^h it from tin; eastward. It is tlie Uoca de Floii of Kliza,
1701, l)ut is now known only by the ajit designation ;;?veii above.

Vancouver called it Deception Pass in 17!tL'. (laliano and Vaidez «-alle«l it
Boca de Floii, thinkinj?, with Eliza, that it was the strait of that name seen by
Quiiiii)er in I7!)0. It was named Deception Pass by the irnited States Exploriiij,'
Expedition in 1841, and is known by no other on tliis coast.

In the middle of the entrance to llosario Strait Vancouver anchored in thirty-
seven fathoms, black, muddy bottom, in 17!t2.

When at tlu' entrance, and one ami a half miles from the western side, a line
passes clear of everythinjj from one end of the strait to tiie otiier. This «'ourse is
north by west half west, and the distance nineteen and a half miles to the north
entrance. It passes between Bird and Belle Kocks, and almost tan<;eiit to Point
Lawrence, on Orcas I: land. Taking the courses tliroiij,'h the mid('lianiiel we have
the followiii<>-: Northwest by north two-thirds north for elevt-n and one I'ourth miles;
north by cast tlirce-(|iiarters east for three aiul thieetburths miles; and northwest
half west tor six and a half miles — making- a total of twenty-one and a half miles.

The shore f(U' the first two miles on the western side is moderately high,
declining to a point, a quarter of a mile oft' which lies Kellett's Ledge, fiiare at the
lowest ti les, and having deep water all around it. The ledge is marked by a mass
of kelp. Tlien(!e the siiore makes a deep bend f(U' a mile to the westward, with a
low beach and marsh, over which Lopez tSoiiiul^ can be seen. This Iteiid is called
Nluxd Jii(/ht,^ and has from six to ten fatlmms lor a mile (mt, with level sandy bot-
tom. In mid-channel rise the liini Iincks.\\ about forty feet high, consisting of three
small, rocky islets very close together, and running in a north direction. Tliey
are somewhat pyramidal in form, and during the summer show yellowish, on
account of the parched grass and the color of tin' rocks. Abreast of them, on the
western side, is a narrow opening between two low nuiky heads of Lopez and
Devutur Iiil<(n<ls.\\ Inside is a line of islets ranging from the inntli head, and
making the channel run towards the south. This barrier is called the Lopez
Cliain,t and the entrance the Lopez Pass.t Several large islands are found inside.
Vancouver's boats evidently were in tiiisltay, as his chart gives a good general

* XaiiiL'd by Eliza in 17'Jl, Called I'erry'h Isluiiil liy the rnilcd States ('\|)li)iin}; expedition
in 1S41.

tNiiiiied l>y file irnited StateH Cnast Survey in l"*r)4. loiiez I'ass is called Maniy I'msm on tlm
Enf^lisli admiralty eli:iit, ]^'>'.).

t Called tile Macedonian t'resreiit by tlie Cnited Stales exploriiij^ expedition in l^ll ; named
Lopez Hay liy the Hinted StateH Coast Survey in ISM.

ij Named by the I'nited States Coast Snrvey in 1>.")4. We were tlie tirst to discover this availa-
able anelioiame. It is called Davis's Hay on liie Knjrlish admiralty chart of K)'.».

II NuiiU'd by the Uuitud StutoH exploring expedition in 1S41.
21*

210

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TKIMUTOKY.

idea of it. The aiu'lioniffe of Shoal JJif^ht coiitiiiuo.s some (listance northward of
this opeiiiiifj, niid abreast of some moderately hi-;!! white bliilVs. North-iutrtheast
throe-(Hi:irters of iv mile from liird Koeks lies licllc h'ovk, directly in mid-eliaiiiiel,
making a very (huifferous position. It shows four fe<^t above the very lowest tides,
and is covered by a patch of kelp, which is. however, jfenerally run under by the
strength of the currents. Tlie rij* upon it can sonu'times be seen when the water
is smooth, but with light winds and liigh tides its existence would not be sus-
pected. On all sides of it the water is very deep. The extent of rock above water
is about twenty feet scpiare. We discovered and named this danger in 1854, and
■while erecting a signal ui)on it miticed that the tide rose nearly one and a half foot
Avhihf th»! current was yet running ebb at the rate of three miles an hour. IJe-
tween it and the IJird Kocks there is a submarine ridge with plenty of wafer, but
marked by strong eddies when the surface is smootli. The steamsiiip Uepublic
lately ran upon tiiis rock, and laore recently the pilot-boat Totter.

After passing Deception Islaiul, on tlie east siiUi of the entrance, the face of
Fidalgo Island is high, i»recii»itous, and bare for two or three miles in a northwest direc-
tion. This is called Sares Head.* it then sweei)s to the n(uth, changing to the
westward until abreast of, and two miles from. Belle Koek. In this deep bay, and
lying well olf shore, are the WIUhohxoh liovlcs,* a cluster of ro(!ky islets about forty
feet high, with (h-ep water close around them. From Decei)tion Island they bear
northwest two-thirds west three miles distant, and from Southwest Ishuul, off
Watmough Head, northeast five miles. Half a mile northward of them is Allan
Lshiiid,* which is about three-(iuarters of a mile in extent, and about two hundred
feet high, with its soul hern face partly bare. A cpiarter of a mile olf its southwest
face lies the l>('/i(« liovL* This is never bare, but its position is marked by a
patch of kelp.

North of Allan Island, and separated from it by a channel a (pmrter of a mile
wide, is liurrotc's Island,* one and a half miles long southeast and northwest, by
half a mile in brea«lth. The island is between six and seven hundred feet high,
and has a notably tlat top, is wooded, and niiiy be seen from the Strait of Fuca.
At the eastern end of the passage, between the las» two islands, is a small one
called Youny Island.* Through all the channels formed by these ishinds a good
depth of water exists, and no dangers have been discovered.

The breadth of Uosario Strait at IJelle Koek is three and a half miles; but it
is so(m ctmtracted by James Island,* on the western side, and opens into a chan-
nel running north-northeast, called the liellitujham Channil,\ which is about two
miles wide at its entrance, A snmll channel, cudled (JiU'mes Channel, runs from it
nunc to the eastward along the ntuth shore of Kidi'.lgo Island, and leads into
Fadilla Hay. Upon Fiualgo rises Mount Lirie* to a height of one thousand two
hundred and tifty feet, covered with Avoods, and presenting a tlat aptteailmce from
certain directions. James Island consists of two heads a mile ai»art, and two

tNiiiiit'd liy tln' United Stiitfn Coast Sur oy, lrt54. Tho Iiuliuii iKiiiic, is Tnt-Hogli.
Ndiiicd by tlit^ I'liiti'd Htntt's t'X)d(»riii}r fixpcditiDii, 18-11.

COAST PILOT OF WASIllNOTON TKKiaT01{Y.

211

til ward of
-lutrtlit'iist
il-cliaiiiK'l,
vest tidt'.s,
liT by the
the water
)t be suH-
love water
LSot, and
I half toot
loiir. Be-
ivater, but
I Keitublic

he tare of
vest direc-
iiij^ to the
) bay, and
M»ut forty
tliey bear
shiiitl, otf
► is Allan
hundred
(onthwest
rked by a

of a mile
iwest, by
feet hififh,
of Fiica.
small one
s a {i'ood

;s; but it
o a chan-
jout two
IS from it
ads into
•4a nd two
nee from
and two

hundred ai;d fifty feet hifth, but connected by a narrow ridj^e. The southern head
is the hi^iher, and not very iieaviiy timl>ered. Close to the wesi of the ridye lies
anntlier head, cdnnected with Decatur Island by a low sand beach.

Northwest of James Island is an opening' on the west between Decatur Island
and Jilakely Island,* with twenty-ftvo fathoms in it, but with a rock, (!overed at a
((uarter Hood, exactly in the mid<lle of the entrance. It is called Thatcher Pass.
On the east, half a mile up the strait, ai>pears the southwest i)oint of Ci/press
Islaii(l,\ otV which lie rocks and foul bottom fin- half a mile on a line to liurrow's
Island. Around this locality extends a larj^'e body of kelj). The southern face of
Cy|»ress Islaml consists of alternate ])eri>endicular white cliffs, and slopinj;' j;round
<'ov«M'ed with fern or trees. On its western side, and one and one-quarter mile
from the southwest i)oint, is found a sun;;' little harbor called iStrawbcrry Bay,X
which is formed by the retreating of the shore-line, and an outlyinj,^ rocky islet
called Strawberry or Hautboy Island.* In this bay excellent anchora^je is foiuid
in from six to ten fathoms, muddy bottom. Good fresh water is plenty here. A
hi^di whit(^ clilV is seen to the south of the harbor, from the shores of which rise
rapidly the Lake ^Iountains,§ to an elevation of one thousand five hundred and
twenty-five feet, and amonj;' whose pe.aks we fouml two large sheets of fresh
water. Tiiese jteaks are very noticeable from the Strait of Fuca, ami being con-
nected by com)»aratively low ridges with other hills on the island, they present a
saddle-like ai)pearance from the southward aiul westward.

Abreast of Strawberry Island the channel contracts to a width of one and a
half mile, where the bold i-ocky face of lilakely Island rises to a height of between
nine hundred and one thousand feet. The greatest elevation of the northern part
of the island is one thousand vm\ forty-fbnr feet.||

Nearly half a mih; southeast from its east face lies a very small low rock
calle<l lil((cJc 7iV)<7,-,§ ami half way between it and the south end of the island is a
irhitc rw7i-,§ a (piarter of a mile from the shore. In this nairow part of the strait
the dei)th of water is about sixty fathoms, and the current goes through with a
roar like the sound of a gale of wind through a forest. When at anchor in ten
fathoms, nndor the low jxtint one and a half mile north of Strawberry Island, we
fonnd the curi-cnt four miles jier hour, and swirling so nunrli that the vessel had
to be steered, to ju-event lier breaking her sheer. Thence tin strait widens north-
ward, and at the north eml of Blakely, two miles above Strawberry Island, two
channels lead to the westward around Obstruction Island,* which lies benveen
Blakely and Orcas Islands. Both are narrow, and oil" the entraniie t the south
lie some sunken rocks, and others above water. Blakely Island and Orcas Ish'ud
are three-quarters of a mile apart.

*Naini'(l by tilt' I'liitcd .Stutt'H <'xi>l()riiij; oxpcditidii, 1841.
tNaiiu'd by Vancouver, l7it"J.

tNiiiiifd liy Vaiicoiivfr, 17'.>'J. Tlu! Indian name for Strawbon'y Bay is Tutl-kc-teli-nas.
^ Named by the I'liited States Coast Survey, lHr>4.

II 'I'lie I'iiiglisli Adiuinilty Cluirt No. 11)11 biw tLis erroneously fOi>ied at two tUouNuud aud forty-
foin- feet.

COAST riLOT OF WASHINGTON TKI{TiITORY.

When in the niirrowosf i)art of Rosaiio Strait, a vory inarkod p(M'i)Oii(lioular
rocky jM'ak is seen to the iiortli. t»v«'r tlie low point ot Cypress, and soon shows
risiiifj ahniittly from the water's ed;;e to a heijjht of seven iiiindred and lifty feet.
It is called iiald I'cak.* Abreast of it the channel takes the tirst turn, chanjiinjf
its course to north l>y east three-i|uarters east for three and three-quarters miles.
Jlalf a mile otV the north end of Cypress Island is a snndl islet covered with trees,
and called Cypress l{ock.+ \orl Invest of it are sonic sunken rocks, but their
exact position is not accurat»'ly known. The c(»mi)aratively low islam] half a mile
n(«'th-n(»rtheast of <Jypress is Sinclair /.v/«h</,| the hijjrhest jiart of which is
towards the eastern eml. Otf the northeast face of binclair Island, and stretchiu}!:
''half a mile, is liou'.der lveef.§ visible at extreme low tides. It is covered with
keli>. which is, h(tw«'vcr. j;'enerally kept under the surface of the water by str<m{^
currents. A hujic, erratic jjranite boulder is seen at ordinary tides inside of the
outer i)oint of the reef, and bears from it east by south three quarters scuith, dis-
tant five hundred yards. From the western point of the island the reef bears
exactly north, distant three-ipiarters of a mile. The revenue cutter Jetl'erson
Davis and the steamship Fanama have been upon it since it was discovered in
18r)4. On the north side of the island is anchorage in ten to lifteen fathoms, half
a mile olV shore.

Three miles from Sinclair Island lies Orcas Tslan<l, on the northwest side of
the strait. It is a larji-e i.sland, with a mountain named Entrance Mountain, one
thousand one hundred and twenty feet high, near its southern end. The i)oint
strctchinj"' furthest east and coming; down to the Avater is Point L((icrence,\\ and
the low, treeless islets and reef, jtassed one and a half miles before reaching;' this
])oint, and lyinji' over half a mile oft' shore, are the JVapods.|| JM'i* water is
f(Uind dose to them. When upon this sanu' mid-channel course, the island ahead
is Lummi Fshinth*] Its southern half is very nnich higher than the northern, ami
attains an elevation of one thousand live hundred and sixty feet. The rock
nearly one hundred tV'ct hijjh otV the hi.!ihesr part of the ri<lge, and a third t)f a
mile from shore, is the Litniini 7^o(7,-,f and a capital boat harbor is found on its
northwest side. A mile otV its south end are the Viti h'ovks,\\ about twenty-tive
leet high, with plenty of water around them.

Abreast of Foint Lawrence the channel is over tliree miles wide, and it there
chauf^es to northwest i;alf west for six and a half miles, to "i line joining the

*XaiiH!d liy the United Statt'n Coast Survey in 1854. Tuo IiuUau unino is SlieL-ung-tlh, sigtii-
fyiiij; tile home of tlie Tlmiiderliinl.

tXaimd by the I'liited .States Coast i^nrvey, ls")4.

t Laid down tiy (ialiano and Valdes as Isla de Ijjnaso. Received its present n.anio from tlio
United States e.\)ilorinf; expedition in ISll.

\S Discovered ami nanieil liy the United States Coast Survey in 1854. Called I'auania Reef on
English admiralty eliart of 1S51).

II Nameil hy the Tnited States exjdorinji expedition. I'^ll.

T Called Isla de I'aeheco liy I'li/.a in HiMI; .Mrl.au;;hlin"s Island liy the liiited Stales exploring
ex|iedilion in 1*11 : named i.niiimi Island in lK'>:t liy the United Slates Coast Survey, heeanst*
inhaliited l>v that trilie. It is known liv no other name.

COAST riLCT OF WASniNCiTON TKHIJITOHT.

213

oiidiciilar
XIII sliows
lilt.v Ct'ct.
cliiiiijiiiiyf
ITS miles.

itil tHM'S,

but tlii'ir
)ir a mile
wliieli is
trctcliiii};
red with
•y stnni{^
»!(' of tho
(nitli, (lis-
vvi' 1 tea IS

.IcIU'lSOM

tvcretl ill
oins, lialf

it side of
itaiii, one
'be point
necjW and
'liiiiji- this
\vat<'r is
iid a]i«-ad
leni, and
riio loek
liiid of a
id on its
eiity-tlve

1 it there
niii}; tho

-till, Higui-

■ from tlio
la Reef on

«'\|il(inii(f

Matid (iroiij),* with tlie north end of liUmmi Ishind. From Point T. .vn-nee,
alony the north face of Orcas Island, the siiore is rocky and pie('i|»itons, and rises
by two or three ]dateanx to Monnt Constitiition.f whieli is less than a milo
ill sliore and two thousand four humired and t weiilytiire*' feet iii;ih.

The yeo^rapJiieal position, as determined hy the Coast Survey in IS.'it, is:

Latitude 4.S 4(> 37.2 north.

Lon^^itude lL'2 41» m.S,S west.

The course out jiasses on the west some small rocky islets called The
Sinters,^ marked by oiu' or two stunted tir trees; then ('larh- Islaiid^ and Bdnics
Jslani1,l close under its western siih-, leavinj;- a channel a mile widelietween it and
the north shore of Orcas Island, witli very deep water ami no aiiclioiaj,'e.
Abreast of Clark Island, on Luiiimi Islaml, is a contracted anchora.!,(' and shelter
from nortlu rly wiiuls, under a low itoiiit called Villajie Poiiit.{ The ■inchora<i'e is
in ten to fifteen fathoms, but there is no fresh water, and the lai <j;e Indian villa;;e
is now deserted. After passiuft- this jioiiit, anchorage may 1)«' obtained liaif a mile
from sliore in from eight to fitteen fathoms. Close to Clark and Uarnes Islands
tlie dejith is fifty and sixty fathoms, and a very strong current runs near them.
The channel between Village I'oiiit and these islands is two miles with*.

West-southwest of the north end ctf Lummi Island, and four miles distant, i re
three islands very close together, called the Mafia Group.* A mile and a half to
the westward of them lies the Sucla Group, consisting of one large and six small
islands, with a reef ott' the north side of the group, and a l)eautiful harbor a mile
long and half a mile wide, oi)ening to the east, and carrying from ten to fitteen
fathoms, sticky mud bottom. § To the westward of this grou|» lies Pafos Ishnul,
and a much smaller one close to its southwest point. The eastern jutint of I'atos
Island bears west thiee-«juarters simth, nine miles from the north end of L nnmi
Island. Two or three miles north-northeast of Liinimi Island oiiens a shoal bay,
backed by low marshy ground, which is covered with trees and swam]) under-
growth. Into it empties one or two mouths of the Luii aii Kiver. The main
entrance of that stream is at the north jiart of the bay, and can be reachetl with
boats oidy at high tide. The northwest boundary of the bay is a low grassy juiint
with a W'W bushes ujion it, called Saiuli/ i'o/Hf.J From tiie north point of Lumini
Island it bears north by west half west, distant two ami a quarter miles.
Between these two jtoints anchorage may be had in from four to six fathoms, but
the south end of Sandy Point should not be api)roaclied within less than half a
mile. Down the east side of Lummi Island, which is about a mile in breadth,
runs Hale's Passage,t three-quarters of a mile wide. It leads from Pellingham

'Calli'd "Kdimiiid's (iroiii)"' liy tlie I'liitfil Stjitcs ('xi)tiiiiiti; ('xiifditiiiii in l^tl. The HHiall
one on till- fiist is ciiUctl I'lillin Islnnil on tin' i;iij,'lisli juluiiriiity I'liurt of is.v.l; in li^.')! it was
iianu-d Matia I-^ast liy tin- I'nitcd .states Coast Snrvcy.

tNanicd liy tlu' fiiitcd States ex)iIorin;j <-x)ieilJtion in l''4V. The Indian name i> S\v(li-la;,'Ii.

{Named liy the I'nileil States exidoiinj; exiieilition, IS-H.

^Partially examined liy llie I'nited States Coast Survey in I"'):! and l-o-'.

214 COAST PILOT OF WASITIXCITON TERIMTOKY.

Iliiy. In iliin piissafjo oiio and a half iniics, and Itcarinfl; oast by soutli half
Hontli from tho north «;nd of Luninii Island, is a low sandy ]>oiiit. niton which wa<i
established in IS,"),'? a scccMnlary astronomical station of the United States Coast
Survey. Its yeotyraphical position is:

Latitude IS 11 0L7 north.

Lon^iitude ll-'2 40 M.*.) west.

h. m. s.

Or, in time 8 10 42.5

This places the north end of Luniini Lsland in —

O ' "

Latitude 4S 44 53.2 north.

Lonjritude 122 42 11.9 west.

The I'ollowinji jicojjraphical positions will serve to check the courses and
distances we have j^iven:

Matia Island, east, latitude 4S 44 .10,8 north.

Matia Island, east, lonfi'tnde 122 48 28.0 west.

O I II

South end of Strawberry Island, latitude 48 ;$,} M.?, north.

South end of Strawberry Island, longitude 122 43 20.7 west.

Southwest Tslan<l,* off Lopez Island, latitude 48 24 5.3..3 north.

Southwest Island, otf Lopez Island, louf-itude 122 48 33.9 west.

ALDEN SUOAL.

From the north jioint of Lumnii, an extensive shoal bears west by north
one-quarter north distant live aiul one-third miles, and northwest by north half
north three and one-half miles froni the eastern isli;r;' of the Matia group. It
lies upon the last diret^t course out of the strait, but has not been completely
sounded out. AVithin the fifteen-fathom curve it is at least two miles scpiare, and
may be used when a vessel loses the wind and has a strong adverse current: but
thi' swirls and e«ldies upon and around it will be very apt to foul any anchor.

The least water tVmnd on this bank is two and three-cpiarters fathoms, and this
spot bears north 35° west, three and one-haif miles from the eastern islet of the
IMatia group.

From about its middle part, we have the following bearings of prominent
objects:

I^astern islet of Matia group, southeast by south half south three and
one-half mile.s.

North point of Lummi Island, east by south one-quarter south five and one-
third miles.

Northwest point of Sucia group, with the wooded island of the Skipjacks just
open, southwest one-quarter south four miles.

* So iiiiiiii'il liy tile I'liiti'd StiittH Ctia.st Siirvi'.v in lf<54 ; ciilldd Colville Isltiml on Eiifjlisk
Atlmiiallv Cliart No. 1011.

COAST PILOT OF \VABIlIi:(5TON TKIIinTOHY,

215

This jtositiiMi will biiii;,' tlio wt^l side of Clarke's Islaiid just on witli I'oiiit
LawivMc*'.

The shoiil was discoveieil l».v Lieutenant (now Conunodore) James Alden,
United States navy, assistant Coast S'.nvey in 18,j;5.

It is named Alden's Bank on the English admiralty chart of ISoO.

GULF OF (JEOHCHA.*

Onee on the Gidf of (Jeorjiia, throu^di either ehannel, the three-mile face and
timber-eovered blufts of Point Roberts t (showin;j almost an island) are seen in
the northwest. On the west, the mountains of Vaneouver and its luirderiu"-
islands rise up preeipitonsly, and on the eastern or main shore, a series of wooded
clitls two hundred feet hi<;h. Far to the eastward, the Caseade ran<,a' is seen
rising" above intorinediat*' rid^jes, with the snow-eovered summit of .Mtuiut IJaker.J
whieh rears it liead ten thousand nine hundred feet above tiie level of the sea. To
the west-northwest stretch the waters t»f the Gulf of Georjuia, nine miles wide,
abreast of Point Koberts, where it is mirrowest, but siueadiuj,' out to tweutv
miles, and having: a leiifrth of one huiulred and twenty. A short distance above
the forty-ninth jtarallel, it receives Eraser Kiver, (the tliird <;ieat stream of the
northwest coast,) the branches of which spread towards the Caseade ranye of
mountains.

if b(mnd up the Gulf, .sailiii^r vessels hold well to the eastern shore to avoid

the rushing currents, and to take the chances of un auchorajj^e if the w ind fails.

From Sandy Point to Point Whifehorn,^ the general trend of the shore is
northwest hdf west, and the distance seven nules. The shore is a steep Iduft"
about one hundred and fifty feet hifih, and covered with wood. At Whitehorn the
face of the point is worn away by the action of the sea, and shows bright, with
rocks at its base.

BIUCU BAY.

The southern point of this line bay is Point ^^^litehoru, and the northwest
shore is formed by a long rounding high bluff, bearing about northwest from
Whitehorn, and distant three miles. The l>ay runs noitli-nintheast two and a
half miles, with a width of one and a half, riie bottom is very uniform, with
capital holding-ground of soft uind in from four to ten fathoms. The inunediate
shores are low, and edged with manshy patches, thick undergrowth, and heavy
wood. No directions are necessary for entering, as there is a depth of fifteen to
twenty fathoms a mile outside, and ten fathoms water on the line of the entrance.
During the heaviest southeast weather no swell is felt here in a i)roi»erly selected

* XmiiiciI Iiy ViiiiciiiiVfr, 17it'<>.

tNniiicd liy (lie I'liitid .Slates cxiildiinii expedition, If^ll. The IiidiiMi iiaiiie is \<i\\ -iik-seii.

t Named by VaiicouviT, 1792. In April, l.-(«, llio sharp pi'aiv was reported ti> have siiiili oTie
thousand or liftceu hundred I'eet after a violent eruption ; but in lf(i7, we saw no ehanee i'roin its
appearance between lHr>;{ and 18,'>7.

^ Named by the I'nited States exploring exi)edition in 1841.

210

COAST 1MI.OT OF WASH INC TON TKHKITOUY.

aiu'horii;r»'. We sciurlicd for tVcsli water, hut iouiid iioiu- in tlio space of uiore
than a niih' ah)n^ its southeastern si(h'.

Tiu' ^eo}j;ra|iliieal position of I'oint Wiiiteiiorn, as tlrterniineil liy liie I'nited
States Coast Survey, is —

Latitude is r>:\ (17.;! north.

Lontrituth' ll.':.' U\ liT.l west.

It received its present name in 17!'-, from Vancouver, who placed it in lati-
tude IS^ .■j.'U'. (Vol. I, pp. .'n.">, .{K!.) The Indian nanu' is Tsan-wueh.

This is the furtlu.>t point northward on the eastern shores of the Culf of
Georgia to which our personal exaniiiuitioas have e.\tende»l.

DIJAVTON IIAiniOlJ.

Passinj; the hlutV northwest of IJirch Hay tlu' shore trends about mu'th-north
east for nearly three miles, and terminates in a lony;, low, sandy iioint, behind
Avhich lies Drayton Harbor, a small landlocked bay, havinj; a depth of leu
fathoms just inside the entrance, but very shoal over uIp" tenths (»f it. It oju'iis
to the north at tho extri'inity of the sand point. With tiu' end of the point
bearinj;; northwest by west three-ei<;hths west, half a mile distant, the aiu'lioraf^c
Avould be in six fathoms. South of this position it shoals gradually forever half a
uiile to twelve feet, witii sticky bottom.

The api)roaches to the bay do not sliow over live fathoms, at a distance of a
mile from the shore, and the same depth is found (»n j;radually lU'arinjf the end of
the low pt)int. The southeast shore of the harbor is Hat and nuirshy, and is not
separated Ity much nuue than a mile from J>irch Bay.

In this liarbor the United Stat»'s and British steamers attached to the north-
western boundary siuvey were accustonuMl to anchor, (l.S.'»7.) The Anu'ricau eoiu-
missioner encam]ted on the bluff about a mile north of the boundary, the sij;ht
havinj^f been selected on account of fresh water, but it has an extensive tlat in
front.

Drayton Harbor was examined and named by the United States explorinjj
expedition in ISH.

A map of it was published by the United States Coast Survey iu 1858.

SKMI-An-MOO HAY.

This extensive bay stretches three or four miles to the westward of Drayton
Harbor, and is bounded on the north by a blutf from three hundred to four
hundred feet hi^ih, covered with tir. The bottom is very reH;uIar, and the depth
ranjfes from ten fathoms, soft bottom, about two miles south of the blulfs, to three
fathoms, within iialf a mile of them.

Tides. — The corrected establishnuMit, or nu>an interval between the time of
the moon's transit antl the time of high water, is -ih. Mm., and the dilfereneo
between the ijreat»'st and least intervals is 2/i. 2im. The mean rise and fall of

!• of more
111' L'nitoil

't IIDltll.
1 \V«'St.

I it ill lati-
1(> fiiilf of

irtlinoith
It, 1)<-liiii(l
III of ten

It Opt'llS

till' point
iuiclionij^o
i\ XT half a

taui't' of a
the I'lul of
and j.s nut

the iiorth-
icaii roui-
the siglit

vo tlat ill

I'xiilorinj^

5.58.

r Drayton
(I to four
till' (h-ptli
s, to three

e time of
(lUleri'iico
ind fall of

COAST PILOT OF WASIIINCTON TKIMMTOUY.

217

tidi'.s i.s .").!) feet ; of spriii;,' tides, 1(».!» I'ci'l, The iiifaii diliation of the lluoil is
till. II III.; of the i'l)h, (th. V.hii; and of I lit' .stand, 'J\hii.

Tilt' two tides of the saiiif da.v arc ;;fn<>rall,v iiiiftpial in proportion to tin*
iiioon's dfflination. The times and liei;;lits can l)c olttained appro.xiiiiati-iv iVoiii
the follitwinj; lal)l«'.

Miiiin'N u|i|iiT iiiri'iilia 1 iiaxMiitfc.

Mihiii'm low4*r luci'idiaii puHKit^t).

Muuu'h ilruUuatiuii.

IIIbIi wiitiT.

L«)W water.

Illtrii wiitcr.

Low watiT.

Irilirval.

lltiKlit.

Interval. } Hiliilil.

Illtxi'Vlll. ■ Ili'l;illt.

IiiliTval.

Il.i^ht.

Greatest imrlli

Zuro

jr u.
i.-i 'ji

17 0!»
III J.'i

IWI.
C. 4
8.1
!1.

//. 31.

•.i;t :i.'i
ai a7
'ji nti

twt.

-1.4
3.0
7..')

// M feet.
V.I :i.'. it.o
17 IW H. 1

l.-i 'Jl ^ 8.4

■n iii;

F,,l.

IJrcatr.it flixith

— 1.4

The inter':.! is to ho ailded to the tiiiic of the iiiooii'.s ineiidian pas,sa;.!:e, to fjivo
the time of lii;fli and low watrr. The tiiiif of tlie moon's iiiipcr mtiidiaii pas.sa^fc
is j;iveii in the Ali..iiiac; and the time of its lower meridian passa;;(' is the middle
between two siieeessive upper i)as.say('.s. The hei;;lits are j;iven in feet and tenths,
andshowtlieri.se above the level of tlie aveia;;e of the lowest low waters ; to
whieh level the .soniidin;;s on the iliart arc ;.;iveii.

Sptiny T'lih's. — At the full and ehan^c of the moon the lii;;h waters will be (l.l
foot higher than the above; and the low waters 0.(> toot lower.

Xvap TidcK. — At the moon's llrst and last (piarters, tlie liij^h waters will lie
O.-i foot lower than the above, and the low waters will not fall as low by (>.(• foot.

A map of this bay was published by the I'liited States Coa.st Survey in l.S."),S,

Stretehin;;' to the northwest is a large, .shallow, marshy bay fringed with trees
and buslie.s. From its northern shore, low land e.vteiids as far baek as Fra.ser Kivi-r.
The western boundary of the bay is Ibriiied by the eastern shore of Point Kobert.s.
It is named Mud Hay ini the United States Coast Survey map of I8.">."j, but on
more reeeiit editions it is ealled Boundary J>ay.

POINT KOBEKTS.

When .seen from the northern entrances of the Canal de ITaro and JJosario
Strait this point stands out near the middle of ihc (Jiilf of (Jeorgia as a bold
wooded island. From Ho.sario Strait the southwestern jtoint bears nearly north-
west by west about eighteen miles. From I'oint Whitchorn it bears we.st distant
twelve miles.

On the outer or fiulf of Georgia siik; of I'oint Iloberts the shore runs about
northwest one ((iiarter west for nine miles to the .southern and jirineipal mouth of
Fraser iJiver. To the mouth of the river, at the outer edge of the tStKnicon Jliiiil,;
the bearing is west by north, and distance nine and two-thirds iiiile.s. Th« south
face runs east-uortheast two and a half miles, and presents for nearly the entire
1'8*

71^

218

(OAST PILOT OF WASI1IN(;T0N TKHKITOIJY.

distiiiKU' ii bold bliitV nboiit oi.r liiiiitli'tMl and titty trot )ii;:)i, iiml cnvcrcd with

viKid. Iliiir a inilf otf this slioi'c, iiiiclioia;;!- iiiiiv Ih- liad in tVoiii tin to tit'tfrn

t'litiionis, but in Hoiilhcily weatiit-r it ninst lie avoidt'd. Thr casti'iii shore oj' tlie

point inns nearly paralh-l with tin- wcstciii tor t'onr oi' livi- niih-s, ( )IV the sontli-
cast point, rocks and I'onI bottom extend sontlnast t'oi-<|nitc a inilr.

The ;f»'o;riaphi<al position of the .southwesteiii pttint, a.s dotfiinint'd by the
Tnitcd States Coast Survey, is:

Latitude 4S oS ir..l north.

Lonj,'itnde \'S.\ (H ](».."» west.

It is therefore nearly two miles south of the northwestern boundary of the
United States. JJetween this station ami the bIntVlies a jnarsh.

Point l{oberts was diseovered and nanu'd the IV'uinsnla de re|»»''(hi in 1701.
It was nanu-d Point Koberts by Vaneouver in 171)1*, and is ealled Itoberts Point
on English admiralty charts of ist7 and ls,V,»,

IMMTiSIl (."OH'MnrA.

The sontheni part of this territory was nanu-d New (i»'orf;ia, by N'aneouver,
iu 17y-. It received its present nanu' by order of the IJriti.sh yoverumeiit, in lH',/-).

FlJASKi: ItlVKU.

The mouth of this river on the f;ulf ed;;e of the Sturj^eon Hank, lies west by
north nine and two thirds miles from the southwest i»art of Point JJoberts. That
part of the bank south of the river is now called Iioberts' IJank, and that to the
northward retains the name Sturyeon liank. yiven to the whole by Vancouver in
17!ti.'.

The current of the river is said to have a velocity of from tive to ei^iht miles in
some i»arts. Thrt)ny,hout its navi},'able extent it is very mirrow ami crooked.
Since the discovery of jiold in this re;;ion a hnjje trathc has arisen, and several
steamboats run iij»on the river.

The southern point of the entrance to the river is named Pelly Point; and the
northern, (Jarry Point.

The followinjj^ ollicial notice in relaticm to the buoys through the Sturgeon
Bank is all that we have to present. It was published in September 185!) :

The entrance to Fraser JMver has been rebuoyed. All the buoys are placed
on the northern or port side of the ehauuel on entering, with the exception of one
on the south sand head.

The following memorandum points out the position and gives the description
of each buoy :

On the simtli s((n(l head. — A spar-buoj* moored in eleven feet at low water.
The s[»ar is painted white and black in horizontal stripes, ami surmoxuited by a
ball of the same colors, also in horizontal strii»es.

On the north mnd head. — A spar-buoy moored in eleven feet. The spar is

iTcd Willi
to tirtrt'ii
»r»' ol' llu-
he soiilli-

I'll by the

1 north.
•"> west.

my of the

:i in IT'U.
■Its J'oint

ancouver,
it, in la,)-).

s west by
Its. Tliat
lat to the
leouver in

it miles in
; crooked.
1(1 several

t ; and the

Sturgeon

ire placed
ion of one

escrii)tiou

ow water,
nted by a

le spar is

COAST riLOT OF AVASITINGTOX TKIJIMTOUY.

21{»

])ainted black and white in vertieal stripes, and siirnittunted by a ball paiiite«l in
the same manner.

Oh the north siile of the chdnml. — A spar-buoy nmoM'd in nine I'ect. The sjiar
is painted black and white in horizontal st 'ipcs, and siirnionntcd by a red Itall.

1. A spar buoy moored in twelve feet. The spar is painted in black and white
liori/.ontal stripes, and siirinoiintcd by a white diamond marked 1.

li. A spar-l)iioy moored in twelve t'cet. The spar is painted white and .sur-
mounted by a bhu;k diamond marked 2.

;{. A si)ar-buoy moored ill eleven I'eet. The spar is painted white and siir-
inoiinted by a red diamond marked .'3.

4. A spar buoy moored in eleven feet. The spar is painted white and sur-
mounted by a crescent red and black marked I.

."). A spar buoy moored in twelve lect. The spar is ]»aiiited in black and white
vertical stripes, surmoii'ited by a red crescent marked ~).

On entering the river, tlie sand head buoys should uot be ai»proachcd within
lialf a mile until the pas-<a.i,'C between them is broiij-ht to bear north half east,
when a vessel may m er in, in inid-cli;uiiiel, or pass the north sand head biu»y and
the lirst one inside it about Mirec iiiindred yards.

The rcmaiiiin;'- live bu(>' s on the north side of the chaimel may be passed
from «)ue liuiidred to two hundred ami tifty yartls, keepiiifj them on the port hand.
After passing the inner buoy, a straight course for Garry J'oint may be steered.

It should be rennMiibered that the ebb current sets to the southward over IJob-
erts' Hank, and the Hood to the northward over the Sturgeon I'.aidv.

The buoys assume a leaning i)osition, varying from au angle of li'P to .StF ac-
cording to the state of the current and wind, and can be plaiiih seen from ves-
sels' decks at a distauce of three miles in clear weather.

By following the foregoing directions, a vessel drawing from fifteen to sixteen
feet of water may enter the Kraser Itivcr with safety at half tide.

Vessels from the s(mthward, passing Point Iloberts, must avoid lioberts' IJank,
which is very steejt. By uot bringing the low part of the point to the southward
of east the bank will be cleared.

LIGHT-SHIP AT ENTRAXCK TO FRASKB IJIVKR.

A light-vessel has been established at the sand heads, entrance^ to Fraser
River, and olf the western edge of Ifoberts' Bank. The vessel is painted red,
with the words " South Sand Head " in white letters of two feet in length on
ber sides; she has two masts, and curries at the main a skeleton ball live feet in
diameter.

The light is n fixed white light, and in clear weather can bo seen at a distance
of eleven miles.

In foggy weatlier a bell is sounded.

The vessel lies in ten fathoms water, with Garry Point bearing ncn-th by cast
three-(puirters east easterly, distant tive and one-lifth miles ; north Sand Head buoy

220 COAST riLOT OF WASniXGTOX TERRITOllY.

iiortlnvcst by north ono-qiiarter north, distant seven cabk's; and the south Sand
Head l»no,v east northeast, distant two eabh's.

Tl'.v approximate geographieal position of the light is:

a I II

Latitude 41> O.". ."50 luirth.

Longitude li;3 17 10 west.

ft. I». K.

Or, in finie 8 i;5 OD.L

Tilt' magnetic variation was 22° .'5.V cast in ISUO.

Tiic river was disi^overed by ICliza in ITitO; and in 1702 CJaliant* infoiined
Vancouver tiiat it was called tlie IJio IJlancho, (IManco,) in lionor of the then
prinu' nunister of Spain, but thai it had been searchetl for in vain. It receives its
present name from its explorer.

The slioal oft" it Vancouver named the Sturgeon Baitl- in 1792.

NA?(AniO HAY.

This bay lies on Vancouver Island, north of the fcnty-ninth parallel, and wo
refer to it because large supplies of tlie best coal in this region are there obtained,
and it is used by all the steamers in thesis waters.

Tlie onti'r entrance to the harbor is in latitude 49° 12' noith, longitude 123°
51' west, and bears west one-(piarter north thirty-three miles from Point Koberts.
From the entrance the mid-channel course runs south half west live miles,
passing a siPiill island on the northwest at the distance of a mile, and a lar;
island, with islets oil its north point, three-quarters of a mile on the east. This
course gradually approaches Douglas Island on the west, abreast of a wide chan-
nel to the east, and is nmnded quite c'ose. The mines will then lie about Avest-
southwest a mile distant, with a small islet in front of them. The bottom is
uneven ; some sunken rock occur, and the anchorage near the rivers is so
contracted that the vessels must moor. Pilots w ill be found here to take ves-
sels in.

The price of the coal per ton is about six dollars, but it is light ; occupies one-
fifth more spai;e tiian Welsh coal; burns rapidly with rtanie and niiu'h smoke; dis-
engages a great deal of gis, and produces clinker in abundance. It is, however,
superior to the coal of JJellingliam Bay.

The usual spelling of this name is Xanaimo, but that best representing the
sound is Nah-ny' nioh.

Of the western .shores of the (lulf of (Icorgia we can say but little. The cur-
rents rush past its precii>itous siiores with great velocity, and, (piite recently, the
Coast Survey brig Fauntleroy drifted, with thirty-eight fathoms of chain at her
bows, in a calm, for miles along, and within eighty yards of the rocks before she
brought up. In one or two instances preceding this the lead indicated bottom in
ten fathoms, the next cast showing forty or lifty fathoms.

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEERITOEY,

221

ioutb Saml

iO north.

(> Wt'St.

iiifoi'iiu'd

tlu' then

'CL'ivos its

I, and wo
obtained,

tude 1230
Itobeits.
e iniU's,
a hii't ',
«t. This
ide chan-
jut Avest-
ottoni is
I's is so
;ake ves-

[»ies onc-
ike; dis-
lowcver,

ting- tho

riie cur-
itly, the
I at her
"ore she
ttoni in

AKCIIIPELACO DE IIAKO.

TlIK TAVO fciTUAlTS.

"VVitii pU-nty of Avind no navi-^ation eonhl be better than that in these chan-
nels; but in a eabn, sailing; vessels will frequently be janmied close to loeks, with
oidy a few fathoms inside of their positions, but forty or lifty outside, and a swill-
ing current that renders toAving with boats utterly iuipt>ssil)le. Frequently, too,
boats haA-e been nearly swamped by the thio rips that exist through them. Otf
East Point, as an instance, a live-oared whale-boat entirely failed to hold her own
against the <'urrent, Avhicli Ave judged to be rushoui (the only term applicable) at the
rate of seven miles i>er liour. Throughout tlie Canal de Maro the roar of the con-
flicting currents can be heard lor miles, and the main cuirent runs fn-ipu'iitly six
miles per hour. No anchorages exist in this channel, except at Cordova Bay, but
it is free of knoAvn hidden dangers, exeei>t Unit Bock, and the continuation of the
reef oft" Darcy Island. It makes a right angle in its course, but is a mile Avider,
and has much deeper Avater than Kosario Strait, Avliich is less curved ; has several
anchorages and known dangerous rocks, with a current of al)out one and a half
miles less ]»er hour. For steamers, either channel, or CA'cn some of the narrow
intermediate chaniu'ls, may be used. The Aviids are apt to fail in both channels,
and dining summer frequent calms prevail.

Steamers bound through the Gulf of Georgia from the Strait of Fuca take the
Camd de Ilaro to the entrance of the Swanson Channel, abreast the Avest end of
Stuart Island; through that channel t(» the Active Pass, and thence to the Gulf of
Georgia ; thus avoiding the currents of the nortiiern part of the Canal de Ilaro.

On the recent Cnited States Coast Survey nuips this aggregation of ishmds
ami channels has been named Washington Sound.

BELLlNOnA^r UAV.

After leaving Posario Strait, the course upon entering the Bellingham Chan-
nel,* two miles Avide, opening south of Cypress Island, is northeast for two miles.
The Avidth then decreases to a mile, ni)on turning sharp around the southeast
point of Cypress; and to tlu> eastward are seen the bright, yellowish blniVs of
(iitcmes Island. JJetwcen these two islands the channel runs about three miles
on a north by Avest half Avest course. Abrc^ist of the north end of (Juemes,
(Avhich is a steep bluli',) and on the west side of the channel, are several small,
high, wooded islets, called tho Cone Islands^ Tho moderately loAV, Avooded island
facing the channel is Sinclair; vessels pass between the southeast jioint of it and
the north end of Guemes. Tin- island a couple of miles to the northeast is Ven-
(loviA Pass north of it, but south of the small islet, (olf Kli/.a Island,) Avhich is
t.AA-o miles mutheast by north from the northwest iKtintof Vendovi, and the south-
ern part of Pellingham Pay opens to the southeast; its northern ]);\vt opens to the
north-n(uthAvest. If the current be th»od and the wind light, keep close around

• Niuui'd hy Mii> li^iiitfd States CiiiiHt Siiivoy in 1854.

t Naiiinl l)y tlic UiiittMl States cxiiloriii},' cxiicditioii, 1841.

222

COAST riLOT OF WASHIXCITOX TERRITORY.

Guonios ami Veiulovi, so a.s not to bo sot past Sinclair Isla,..l. Tho low, l)aro,
I'Ofky islots, ono and a half niilo ncn-thwost of A'ondovi, aro tho Yiti Rocks;* and
tho i)oint botwoon thonv and Eliza Island is tho southern oxtrcinity of Liunnii
Island. From tho islot last passed, a i»oint on the eastern shore lies nearly north,
five or six miles distant. Run past this, and follow the trend of the shore for two
or three miles, to the deepest part of that part of tho bay, when houses, &c., will
denote the positicm of tho mines and tho villages of Sohome and Whatcom.t Half
a mile from tho shore is capital anchorayo in f(uir fathoms, .soft bottom, and the
bay there is very snutoth.

Tho {jonoral direction of I>ollinj>liam Bay is southeast and northwest ;. its width
three miles, and lenjjfth fourteen, extending from latitude 48° 33' to latitude 48° 48'.
The depth of water ranges from three to twenty fathoms, with good sticky bottom.

There are several com])anios mining hero, but tho amount of (toal obtained is
not groat. Its (luality is not good, the furnaces producing soniotinu's as much
clinker and ashes in bulk, and half tho amount in weight, of tho coal put in. Del-
eterious gas is freely disengaged, and tho combustion also evolves clouds of black
smoke. In tho experiment which wo witnessed, in 18.j3, the stoanun's furnaces
could not, in two attempts, be kept ui> ?o as to produce a suniciency of steam. In
18G8 the mines were abaiuloaod on account of the fires raging through them.

A saw-mill is located ui)on tho bay at one of tho villages.

JJellingham Ray was lirst surveyed by Whidboy, under Yancouvor's orders,
in 1702, and then received its present name. In some recent maps tho northern
portion is called Gaston Bay, and for tho southern part tho original name is
retained ; but Yancouvor's designation is that universally adopted on the western
coast.

A military station is located at tho upper part of the bay. opposite tho coal mines.

A hydrographic sketch of tho bay was published in tho Coast Survey report
for 18r»0.

The amount of shore-lino in tho Archipelago do Haro, Bellingham Bay, Pos-
session Sound, «Jcc., is six hundred aiul tweiity-sevou miles.

"Wo never heard thunder in this Territory, except in one instance, at Cypress
Island, in Rosario Strait.

AinnRALTY IXLET. — aE>'EKAL FKATI-RESI.

This inlet may bo described as a vast canal, commencing at tho southeast
extremity of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and running in a general southeast by
south direction, for sixty miles, to the south end of Yashon Island. It has for
that length an average width of throe and a half miles, and then branches into a
multitm'c of arms, wiiich cover an area of about fourteen by twenty-two miles.
Their general direction is southwest throe-ciuarters south, and they comprise what
is called Pugot Sound.

At sixteen miles from the entrance to tiio iulot, an arm, called Hood's Canal,

*N':iiiii(| liv the fiiitiil Stiiti's I'xplo'injj; »>xi«'iliti(>u. l»f'41.
t Tile liulijin i,,iinc I'm- •• Niiisv WjitiT." tlir nutlet of the liiki'

COAST riLOT OF WASrilXGTOX TKRKITORY.

223

opens upon the wostorn sido, and runs sixty miles south by west, with an a.criijie
width of one and a haU' mile. Twenty-five miles from the entrance of .the inlet,
another arm opens on the eastern side, runs north and northwi-st bcliind Whidbey
Island, foriniiij,' Possession Sound, I'oits (lardnerand Susan, &».'.. and leads on to the
Strait of Juan de Fuoa through Deeeptioii Pass, at the north end of Whidbey Island.

The shores are generally blulfs, langing from fifty to five luuidred feet in
height, with their sides kept bright by the gradual wearing action of the water, ajul
their tops covered with trees and thick unth'rgrowth to their very edges. There is so
much sameness in the shores that it retiuires some actniaintance with the different
points to recognize them by their trifling ]K!culiarities. The depth of water in the
channels is remarkably great, i)erhaps averaging one hundred fathoms, and it is
sometimes diflicult to find anchorage (Milliciently far from the shore to afford room
for getting under way. Many superior harbors are found in eveiy direction, and
small settlements are gradually springing up in favorable localities.

Admiralty Inlet, Hood's Canal, ami Paget Souiul, have an aggregate shore-
line of not less than eight hundred and three miles, yet the number of dangers
known to exist in them is rennukably few.

One of the inlets or arms of Paget Sound reaches within two aiiles of the
head of Uood's Canal, and between them lies a large lake. The southern Maters
of this sound are also within sixty-five miles, in a dire t line, of the Columbia
Kiver, at the mouth of the Cowlitz, which is fifty-two niile.s from Cajte l)isii[>point-
ment; and within twenty miles of the ui>per waters of tiie Chehalis Piver, which
runs into Gray's Bay. At present, the route travelled from the Columbia !■; by
canoes, for twenty-eight miles, up the CoAvlitz to the settlement at •• Cowlitz
Landing," (or by horse over a somewhat bad path.) and then by horses or iiuiles
to Olympia, fifty-two miles, over a tolerably level country, and by a road moder-
ately good in summer, but l)ad in winter. The distance can be made in one day
with a good horse. From m here the road strikes the <.'iiehalis the river is navi-
gable for large boats to Cray's Harbor, to which a small steamboat makes trips.
We judged the stream to be aliout one hundred yards wide. It had a])parently
plenty of water and a slow currt'iit. T. Cowlitz has a rajiid current, and at a
low stage of the water, canoes are poled up its channel ; during freshets they are
dragged uj), the crews cling to the branches of the trees ujton its banks. Two
days of labor are then re<[uired for the trip, but in sununer it is made in one.

The importance of these close relations of the waters of the Columbia lliver,
Puget Sound, Admiralty Inlet, Cray's Harbor, and Shoal water Bay, in view of
the prosperity of the two Territories, nnist l)e n.anifest, without entering into
details of the feasibility of their connection by railroads and canals.

The inlet was discovered by (i)uim|)er, in ]"!ti», and called the Canal de
Caamano, It was first explored and maih- known in 171L', by ^'aln•lluv^■|•. who
applied the jtreseut name to it.

A reet)nnaissance sketch of Admiralty Inlet was published by the Coast Sur-
vev in IS-'i-t.

224 COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEREITORY.

We ■will not attempt to give in full finl explicit detail all the ])eculiarities of
this vast area of waters, but, following the niid-ehaniiel courses, will only note
generally the objects as they come under tlie eye of the navigator.

The entrance to the inlet lies between Point Parti Idge, on Whidbcy Island,
and I'oint Wilson, on the main at the entrance to Port Townsiu'ud. The bearing
of the latter point from the former is southeast by south half south, four and a half
miles; and die bluff head lying two or three miles io the east of this line, desti-
tute of trees, and marked by a lighthouse, is Admiralty Head, around which the
ebb current, and an ebb eddy on the tlood, sweep with force.

The first course inside of the entrance of the inlet is east-southeast six and a
half miles, jiassing Port Townshend on the south. Admiralty Head on the north,
and changing the course abreast of Marrowstone Point on the west-southwest.

POOT PARTRIDGE.

This is the western point of Whidbey Island, and directly faces the Strait of
Juan de Fuca. It is very steep and yellow, and flat on the summit, which is cov-
ered with spruce, flr, and cedar. The jioint is so rounding tiiat it is not easily
recognized on coming from the westward, but from the soutli and north it is well
marked and prominent. Its face is composed of loose sand, which, being blown
up the hill by the strong west winds, has formed a very jjceuliar ridge on the
outer face of the top. This is so narrow that it can hardlv be travelled, and in
many places it is thiity-iive feet above the ground inside; yet being overgrown
with bushes, the ridge is now permanent.

The highest part of the point is about two hundred and sixty feet above low
water.

The triangulation station of the Coast Survey was on the southern part of
the i)oint, and its geograiihical positir >. is :

Latitude 48 12 5(».o nortli.

Longitude 122 -15 0G.7 west

h. m. s.

Or, in time 8 11 00. i

From Point Wilson it bears northwest by north half north, four and a quarter
miles.

From Admiralty Head lighthouse northwest by Avest three-quarters west, fve
and a quarter miles.

From New Dungeness light it bears north by east one-third east, fourteen
miles.

The point received its ])resent name from Vancouver, in 1702.

PORT TOWNSIIKXD.

This harbor is favorably situated at the termination of the Strait of Juan de
Fuca, at the outlet of the watt'is of Admiralty Inlet, Paget Sound, &c., and in
proximity to tlu^ great labyrinth of inland wafers of Uritish (Columbia. The

COAST PILOT OF WASUIJ^GTON TEKKITOllY.

225

firities of
»iily uote

y Isliuid,
) bearing
lul ii bait"
110, (losti-
iliich the

<ix and a
III! north,
west.

Strait of
i!h is cov-
iiot easily
it is well
i\<^ blown
f'C on the
(1, and in

b(vvo low
n ]>art of

> north.
Avest,

I quarter

rtost, fve

fourteen

Juan de
l;., and in
»ia. The.

entrance lies between Point Wilson* and Marrowstone Point,* the latter bearing
east-southeast three and live-eighths miles from the former. Upon this line, and
even outside of it. lies a bank extending two-thirds of tiie distaniie from Marrow-
stone, and having from six to lifteen fathoms, with hard, sandy bottom. Inside of
Point Wilson, which is composed of low, sandy hillocics, as heretofore described,
lies another low point called Point lIudson,t tUstaut one and three-ijuarters miles,
southeast by south half south.

Starting from the entrance line, about one and a half juiles from ^Farrowstone,
the mid-channel course of tiui bay is south-southwest, three miles, with an average
width of two; thence southeast oKC-third south for three and a i|uarter mili's, with
an average width of one and a (piarter. Tiie depth of water throughout is very
regular, and ranges from eight to filteen fathoms, with soft, muddy bottom inside
of Point Hudson. Vessels coming from the strait steer for Point Hudson, as soon
as it is opened by Point Wilson, i)assing the latter close, as twenty fathoms are
found one hundred or two hundred yards oft' it. L'pon approaching I'oint Hud-
son, and when within half a mile of it, gradually keep away about a quarter of a
mile in from live to ten fathoms, und, as it opens, run quite close, with tlie
summer wind oft' shore, to save making a tack; keep along half a mile to the
town situated und(>r the Prairie lilutf, and anchor anywhere otY the town in ten to
twelve fathoms, about a quaiter of a mile from shore. In winter, anchor further
out, to clear Point Hudson, in getting under way witii a soutiieaster.

When coming do>vn the inlet, bound into the bay, witii the ebb current, pass
Marrowstone nearly three-cpuirters of a mile before heading in for the town, and so
avoid a very strong eddy which comes out of the bay along the bluff shore west
of this point. If the wind be light and the current strong, pass the point quite
close by; run along the outside of the rip, and try to get upon the bank as soon
as practicable.

In sununer, vessels frequently drift about the entrance for days, without a
breath of wind, and in verj' strong currents.

TIDES.

The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's
transit and the time of high water is 3/i. 4!b;i. The mean rise and fall of tides is
4.C feet; of spring tides, 5..") feet; and of neap tides, -1.0 feet. The mean duration
of the flood is Gh. .'J4»j., and of the ebb, 5h. 't2m. The mean dift'erence between
the correi'ted establishments of the a. ni. and p. ni. tides of the same day is 2h.
22m. for high water, and U/j. .'iow. for low water. When the moon's declination is
greatest these ditferences are 4/(. .'?Sw. and Oh. 27jh., respectively; and when the
moon's declination is zero, they are O/i. iOin. and Oh, 2!»;h. The njean dift'erence in
height of these two tides is 1.1 feet for the high waters, and 4.(5 feet for the low
waters; when the nuwu's declination is the greatest, they are O.C foot and 7.3 feet,

* Niiinoil by Vuucuuvei' in 17iW. On one edition of the maps of tlie United .States Exjdorinf;
Expedition the latter point is called I'oint Carroll ; and on another, Point Hinj{noIcl.
tNanied by the United States Exploiin;; Exi>edition, Ih.M.
'Jit*

22G

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEimiTORY.

aud wlion the moon's dodiuatiou is zero 1. -4 feet and lA feet. When the moon's
declination is greatest, and north, the two high waters of the day follow the
moon's upper transit, respectively, by about dh. Sm. and 13/i. 6iim., and when
greatest, and south, by about l/i. 30m. and 18/i. 34m., the height of the two being
about equal. When the moon's declination is zero, and passing from north to
south, they follow the moon's transit by about 4/i. 9m. and 15/i. ;j3m., and the first
rises about lA feet liigher than the second. When the moon's declination is zero,
and passing from south to north, tiiey follow the moon's transit by about 3/(. L"Jm.
and lOA. 35m., and the second rises higher than the first by the same quantity.
When the moon's declination is greatest, north or south, the two low waters
follow the moon's transit by about 9/i. ilm. and 22h. 7m., but when north the
second falls lower than the first by about 7.3 feet, and when south the first falls
lower by that (piantity. When the moon's declination is zero, the two low waters
fall nearly equally. The greatest ditference observed between the heights of the
two low waters of a day was S.G feet, and the greatest diflereuce between the
higher high and the lowei" low water of a day Avas 10.1 feet.

The two tides of the same day are generally unequal in proportion to the
moon's deeliiuition. The time and height can be obtained approximately from the
following table:

TIDE TABLES FOll PORT TOWNSHEXD.
TABLE 1.

80LTI1 DECLINATION

—DAYS KllOM MOON'S GHEATEST HECI.INATION.

p ^ "

Before —

Aftcr-

5 1

A. m.

2 !

A. VI,

h. m.

li. m.

h. m.

A. m.

h. m.

A. m.

fl. m.

, 1
A. m.

A. m.

h. m.

3 45

3 21

2 51

2 2

1 32

1 13

1 2li

1 44

2 2

2 21

2 42

2 57

3 15

3 33

3 45

3 38

3 14

a 44

1 55

1 25

1 6

1 19

1 37

1 55

2 14

2 35

a 50

3 8

3 36

3 38

3 32

3 8

2 38

1 4!)

1 1ft

1 13

1 31

1 49

2 8

2 29

2 44

3 2

3 20

3 32

1 30

3 ifi

3 2

2 32

1 43

1 13

1 7

1 25

.43

2 2

2 23

a 38

2 56

3 14

3 26

3 21

2 5-

2 27

I 38

1 8

1 2

1 20

1 38

1 57

2 18

2 33

2 51

3 9

3 21

a 30

3 18

2 54

2 24

1 35

1 5

1 17

1 35

1 54

2 15

a 20

2 48

3 6

3 18

3 IG

a 52

2 22

1 33

1 3

1 15

1 33

1 52

2 13

8 38

2 46

3 4

3 16

3 30

3 17

2 5:1

2 23

1 34

1 4

1 16

1 34

1 53

2 14

2 39

2 47

3 5

3 17

4 fl

3 21

2 57

2 37

1 38

1 8

1 3

1 20

1 38

1 57

2 18

2 33

2 51

3 9

3 31

4 30

3 2fi

3 2

a 33

1 43

1 13

1 7

1 ?.5

1 43

2 a

3 33

2 38

2 56

3 14

3 26

3 32

3 8

2 38

1 49

1 19

1 13

1 31

1 49

3 8

3 29

2 44

3 3

320

3 33

r> 30

3 41

3 17

2 4/

1 58

1 28

1 9

1 32

1 40

1 58

2 17

3 38

2 53

3 11

3 29

3 41

3 52

3 28

2 58

2 9

1 39

1 20

1 33

1 51

2 9

2 28

2 49

3 4

3 22

3 40

3 52

n 30

4 1

3 37

3 7

2 18

1 48

1 39

1 42

2 18

2 37

2 58

3 13

3 31

3 49

4 1

4 8

3 44

3 14

2 25

1 55

1 36

1 49

2 7

>-2 25

2 44

3 5

3 20

3 38

3 56

4 8

7 30

4 15

3 51

3 21

a 32

3 3

1 43

1 56

2 14

2 32

a 51

3 12

3 27

3 45

4 3

4 15

4 18

3 54

3 24

a 35

3 5

1 46

1 59

2 17

2 35

2 54

3 15

3 30

3 48

4 6

4 18

8 30

4 19

3 55

3 35

8 3«

3 6

1 47

2 18

2 36

2 55

3 16

3 31

3 49

4 7

4 19

4 It*

3 54

3 24

2 35

a 5

1 46

I 59

2 17

2 35

2 54

3 15

3 30

3 48

4 .i

4 18

9 30

4 15

3 51

3 21

a 32

3 2

1 43

1 56

. 2 14

2 32

2 51

3 12

3 27

3 45

4 3

4 15

4 10

3 4fi

■1 IB

2 27

1 57

1 38

1 51

1 2 9

2 27

2 46

3 7

3 22

3 40

3 58

4 10

10 30

4 6

3 42

3 12

3 23

1 53

1 34

1 47

2 5

2 23

2 42

3 3

3 18

3 :>6

3 54

4 6

3 3B

3 17

1 47

1 38

1 41

1 59

2 17

a 36

2 57

3 13

3 30

3 48

11 30

3 54

3 30

3 11

1 41

1 83

1 35

1 53

2 11

2 30

2 51

3 6

3 24

3 42

3 54

;he moon's
follow the
and when
two being
n north to
il the first
ion is zero,
lit 3/i. 29ffi.
quantity.
i>w waters
north the
xirst falls
low waters
hts of the
!tween the

tion to the
y from the

A. TO.

h. m.

3 33

3 45

3 36

3 38

3 20

3 32

3 14

3 26

3 9

3 21

3 fi

3 18

3 4

3 10

3 5

3 17

3 9

3 21

3 14

3 26

3 20

3 32

3 29

3 41

3 40

3 52

3 49

4 1

3 50

4 8

4 3

4 15

4 6

4 18

4 7

4 19

4 fi

4 18

4 3

4 15

3 58

4 10

3 54

4 6

3 48

3 42

3 54

•I

A. m.

1
i 30

2 30

3 30

4 30

5 30

6
e 30

7 30

8 30

9
9 30

10 30

11
U 30

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEEKITORY.

TABLE II.

NOKTII DECLINATION.— HAYS KKOM MOON'S OURATK8T HKCLLNATION.

227

Befor(>-

h. m.
3 45
3 38
3 32
3 20
3 21
3 18
3 16
3 17
3 21
3 2fi
3 32
3 41

3 .')2

4 1
4 8
4 15
4 18
4 19
4 18
4 15
4 10
4 6
4
3 54

h. m.
4 9
4 3

3 56
3 50
3 45
3 42
3 40
3 41
3 45
3 .50

3 56

4 5
4 10
4 25

4 32 I
4 39 j
4 42 I

4 43 ;
4 42 ;

4 39 j

4 34 I
4 30
4 24
4 18

h. m.
4 39
4 32
4 »U
4 30
4 15
4 12
4 10
4 11
4 15
4 20
4 30
4 35
4 40

4 55

5 3
5 9
5 10
5 13
5 12
5 9
5 4
5
4 54
4 48

A. »i.
5 38
5 31
5 15
5 9
5 4
5 1

4 59

5
5 4
5 9
5 15
5 24
5 35
5 44
5 51

5 .58

6 1
6 2
6 1
5 58
5 53
5 49
5 43
5 37

A. »i.
5 58
5 51
5 45
5 39
5 34
5 31
5 29
5 30
5 34
5 39
5 45

5 54

6 5
6 14
6 21
28
31
6 32
6 31
6 28
6 33
6 19
6 13
6 7

A. m.
6 17
6 10
6 4
5 58
5 53
5 50
5 48
5 49
5 53

5 58

6 4
6 13
6 24
6 33
6 40
C 47
6 50
6 51
50
6 47
6 42
6 38
6 32
6 26

A. m.
6 4

5 57
5 51
5 45
5 40
5 37
5 35
5 36
5 40
5 45

5 51

6
6 U
20
6 27
6 34
6 37
6 38
6 37
34
6 39
6 25
6 19
6 13

A. n>.
5 4fi
5 39
5 33
5 87
5 22
5 19
5 17
5 18
5 22
5 27
5 33
5 42

5 53

6 2
6 9
6 16
6 19
6 20
6 19
6 16
6 11
6 7
6 1
5 55

After—

A. in.
5 28
5 21
5 15
5 9
5 4
5 1

4 59

5
5 4
5 9
5 15
5 24
5 35
5 44
5 51

5 58

6 1
6 2
6 1
5 .58

A, 111.
5 9
5 3
4 56
4 50
4 45
4 43
4 40
4 41
4 45
4 50

4 56

5 5
5 10
5 35
5 33
5 39
5 42
5 43
5 42
5 39
5 34
5 30
5 24
5 18

A. in.
4 48
4 41
4 35
4 39
4 34
4 31
4 19
4 20
4 24
4 39
4 35 ^
4 44 I

4 55

5 4 !
5 11
5 18
5 21
5 22
5 21
5 18
5 13
5 9
5 3
4 57

A. III.
4 33
4 26
4 30
4 14
4 9
4 6

4 14

4 20
4 29
4 40
4 49

4 56

5 3
5 6
5 7
5 6
5 3
4 58
4 54
4 48
4 42

K, 111.

4 15
4 8
4 3
3 56
3 51
3 48
3 46
3 47
3 51

3 5C

4 3
4 11
4 33
4 31
4 38
4 45
4 48
4 49
4 48
4 45
4 40
4 36
4 30
4 34

A. m.
3 57
3 M
3 44
3 38
3 33
3 30
3 28
3 29

3 ;t3

3 38
3 44

3 53

4 4
4 13
4 20
4 37
4 30
4 31
4 30
4 37
4 3*^
4 18
4 12
4 fi

A. m.
3 45
3 38
3 38
3 36
3 31
3 18
3 16
3 17
3 31
3 26
3 32
3 41

3 ,52

4 1
4 8
4 15
4 18
4 19
4 18
4 15
4 10
4
4
3 54

TABLE III.

SOUTH PECLMATION.

NORTH DKCLMATIO.V.

Days froi
greatest
tion.

Low water.

High water.

Low water.

Low water, ; High water.

1
i

Low water.

<a ^ d

7
6
5
4
3
2
1

1
2
3
4
5
6
, 7

A. III.
fi 05

6 38

7 18

8 13
8 30
8 43
8 12
7 40
7 18
6 59
6 38
6 24
6 10
5 59
5 42

A. r,i.

12 211

13 14

14 14

15 .52

16 !-.2

17 30
17 04
16 28
15 ,52
15 14
14 32
14 02
13 26
12 .-lO
12 26

A. III.
18 05
18 20

18 40

19 23

20 00
20 31
20 36
20 32
20 18
19 59
19 38
19 22
19 00
18 35
18 28

A. m.
5 39
5 06
4 3«
3 31
3 08
3 01

3 31

4 04
4 36

4 45

5 00
5 20
5 34

5 45

6 03

A. m.

12 26

11 38

10 .38

9 00

8 00

7 22

7 48

8 24

9 00
9 38

10 20

10 .50

11 26

12 02
12 26

A. m.

18 31
18 16
17 56
17 13
16 36
16 05
16 00
16 04
16 18

16 37
Ifi 58

17 14

17 36

18 01
18 08

7
fi
5
4
3
2
1

3
4

5
fi

1 .

Note.— To use this table -.^itli a cliart on wliii li the simiiiUnsii avi' referiiMl to mean low water, subtract 2. 3 feet
from the numbers In the tnbles for Port Townshend, iiiiil 2. 7 lor Scmiahmoo and StcUacooni.

228

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

TABLE IV.

TABLE V.

oon's

NOllTIl

KEcuN.vnox.-

-t).\VS KliOM moon's OKB.VTB9T

DECLLVATION.

«M a

Boforo—

After—

1
3 4

Sour.

Ft.

6.C

6.:)

5.9

6.1

6.4

0.9

7.2

7.4

7.5

7.0

7.7

7.9

6.7

6.4

6.0

6.2

6.5

7.0

7.3

7.5

7.0

7.6

7.7

7.8

8.0

0.6

6.U

5.9

6.1

6.4

0.9

7.9

7.4

7.5

7.6

7.7

7.9

n, ;)

fi.O

5.6

.5.8

6.1

6.6

0.9

7.1

7.3

7.2

7.3

7.4

7.6

5.7

5.3

5.5

5.8

6.3

6.0

6.8

0.9

6.9

7.0

7.1

7.3

r,. ft

5.6

5.3

5.4

5.7

6.2

0.5

0.7

6.8

0.8

6.9

7.0

7.8

n. 1

5.H

5.4

5.0

5.9

6.4

6.7

6.9

7.0

7.1

7.8

7.4

B.4

6.1

5.7

5.!)

P. a

6.7

7.0

7.2

7.3

7.4

7.5

7.7

6.5

6. a

5.8

0.0

0.3

6.8

7.1

7.3

7.4

7.5

7.6

7.8

6.5

6.2

5.8

6.0

0.3

6.8

7.1

7.3

7.4

7.5

7.6

7.8

6.6

6.11

5.9

6.1

0.4

6.9

7.2

7.4

7.5

7.6

7.7

7.9

6.6

6.;j

5.9

6.1

0.4

0.9

7,8

7.4

7.5

7.6

7.7

7.9

BOITII DKCI.INATION-

-DAYS FIIOM SIOON'8 GBBATEST DECLLNATION.

Before—

After—

flour.

Ft.

7.6

7.9

8.3

8.1

7.8

7.3

7.0

6.8

0.7

6.7

0.6

6.5

0.3

7.7

8.0

8.4

8.2

7.9

7.4

7.1

6.9

6.8

0.8

6.8

0.8

6.7

6.0

0.4

7.6

7.9

8.3

8.1

7.8

7.3

7.0

6.8

6.7

0.7

6.7

0.7

6.0

6.5

6.3

7.3

7.6

8.0

7.8

7.5

7.0

0.7

6.5

6.4

0.4

6.3

6.2

6.0

7.0

7.3

7.7

7.5

7.3

0.7

0.4

6.2

0.1

6.1

0.1

0.0

5.9

6.7

6.9

7.8

7.0

7.4

7.1

0.0

0.3

6.1

0.0

6.0

0.0

5.9

5.8

S.6

7.1

7.4

..8

7.0

7.3

6.8

0.5

0.3

6.2

0.2

6.2

0.1

6.0

5.8

7.4

7.7

8.1

7.9

7.6

7.1

0.8

0.6

6.5

0.5

6.5

6.4

6.3

0.1

7.5

7.8

8.2

8.0

7.7

7.2

0.9

0.7

6.6

0.0

6.6

6.5

0.4

0.2

7.5

7.8

8.2

8.0

7.7

7.2

0.9

6.7

6.6

0.6

6.6

6.5

6.4

6.3

7.6

7.9

8.3

8.1

7.8

7.3

7.0

0.8

6.7

0.7

6.7

6.0

6.5

6.3

7.6

7.9

8.3

8.1

7.8

7.3

7.0

6.8

6.7

0.6

0.5

6.3

Note To use these tables with a chart on whicli tlio soiiuilings are reforreil to mean low water, subtract 2. 3 fe«t

from the numbers in the tables for Port Towushcnd, and 8. 7 for Semiahmoo and Steiiacoum.

Ft.

7.7

7.9

7.8

7 7

7.9

7.4

7.6

7.1

7.3

7.U

7.8

7.4

7.5

7.7

7.6

7.8

7.6

7.8

7.7

7.9

7.7

7.9

Ft.

5.5

6.3

i.6

6.4

6.3

6.0

5.7

5.6

5.8

6.1

6.2

6.3

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

229

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COAST VILOT OF WASIIINGTOy TKIUUTOPvY.

'111)118.11 s.noom JO unon

= -

» JS

!■• X 9i

§
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d r d

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s e
el si

Si Si

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X. C 81

•*

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si si

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Si ei ri

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X S 51

ri ^ ^

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t- X S!

CUAST PILOT OF WASIIlNCiTON TEHIJITOKY. 231

Tli»> pooprajiliiral position of thf tiiaiipiiliitit)u station of tlio Coast Survey,
upon Point Wilson, is:

Latitude 4S 08 42.7 noitli.

Louyituile ll'l] 41 4U. t west.

A. m. ».

Or, iu time .S lu o0.3

The position of the trianjruhition station on tiie extremity of Point Hudson,
computed from the secondary astronomical station near tiie town, is:

Latitude 48 07 00.7 nortli.

Longitude IL'2 44 1*5.8 west.

h. III. s.

Or, in time 8 10 .■)7.7.

Mafjnetic variation L'P 40' east, in August IsrtO, with a yearly increase of 1'.

From the above it will be .seen that Point Hudson is about lin. L'.'i.v. west of
Telegraph Hill, San Franei.sco.

The town of Port Townshend has increased very niui'h since tiie discovery of
gold on Fraser Kiver. No fresh water is to be had. but vessels ran obtain a small
supply near the military post. Some tiiu' farms lie near the town, and vegetables
are plenty at reasonable prices. The place was noted for the rough character of
Its ''beach combers."'

A military post has been established on the blulf. two and a half miles south
by Avest from the town, and on a site which commands one of the most beautiful
views iu these waters, having the bluft" and varied shores of the bay on either
baud; Admiralty Head, six miles distant ; in the middle grouiul several distant,
wooded ridges, and in the back ground the snow-covered. doul)le summit of
Mount Baker, ten thousand nine hundred feet in height, with the uioutli of the
crater distinctly visible between the peaks, niul at times emitting vast volumes of
smoke. The elevation of the 'i'le of perpetiuil snow upon this mountain is three
thousaiul one hundred and forty-live feet. Humboldt is wrong in his description.

On the east side of the bay, abreast of the town, lies a long sand s\n\, nearly
closing the north entrance to Kilisut Harbor, which runs parallel to the inlet, and
is separated by an is^ind a mile wide and six miles long. At high tide this har-
bor communicates, by a crooked boat channel, with Oak Cove, at the south end.

At the head of Port Townshend is a narrow channel opening into a large flat,
bounded by a low, sandy beach, separating it from Oak Co\e. Tlie Indians fre-
quently use this as a portage.

The shores are generally blufl's, about one hundred and twenty feet high, atid
covered with wood, except behind the town. Ijctween the town and Fort Towns-
hend are two low pieces of grass and sand beach, backed l>y marsh and ponds.
The flvj-fathom curve extends but a t'ew hundred yards from any part of tiio
shores. A small patch of keli* lies otV the southern point of Prairie Ulufl", and
another off the north face of Marrowstone P>lnff.

232 COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEUUITOKY.

Port Towtislicnd was 8iirvcyo»l and first iiindi* known in 1792, by Vancouver,
wlio (,'avo it tiic pr«'.s('iit name, b.v wiiicii it is hIwuns Unown.

A chart of it was piihlisliod by tlio Coast Survey in lsr>S.

MarrowHtone Point is a low Bandy point strt't«'liiiitj three hundred yards east-
ward from the base of tho blutV, and t'oriuin}; an indentation on its southern face,
where anchorage maybe had in twelve fathoms, with a current or eddy invariably
runnintj ebb. Small craft comiuK out «»f the inlet with a head wind can easily
tak»3 advantage of this for two or three miles above the point.

It received its present name from Vancouver iu 1792.

ADMIRALTY HEAD.

Directly opposite the entranc^e to Port Townshend is Admiralty Head, or
Red lUuft', a peri)endicular clilV eighty feet high, falling on the eastern side to a low,
pebbly shore, which runs two miles to the east-northeast, and strikes the high
clifl's on the eastern side of the inlet. Behind this beach is a large lagoon, and
off it is Admiralty IJay, with hard, sandy bottom, in irregular ridges, and a depth
of tifteen to twenty-live fathoms of water. A strong ciurent always makes out of
the bay, and it is exposed to the full sweep of southeasters. The (uirrent is so
strong that a vessel rides to it, and consequently lies iu the trough of the sea.

J-IGHTUOVSE ON ADMIRALXy HEAD.

The structure consists of a keeper's dwelling, Avith a tower rising through the
roof at one end ; both are painted white, and the irou lantern surmoun iig 1;ho
tower is painted red. The height of the tower from the base to the focal plane is
forty-one feet, and the elevation of the focal plane above the mean level of the
inlet is one hundred and nineteen feet.

The illiuninating apparatus is of the fourth order of the system of Fresnel,
and shoM'S vl fixed white light. It was first exhibited January 20, 18GI, and shows
from sunset to sunrise. Under a favorable state of the atmosphere it should be
seen —

From a height of 10 feet, at a distance of 16.1 miles.
From a height of 20 feet, at a distance of 17.6 miles.

Its geographical position, as determiued by the Coast Survey, is :

O ' ('

Latitude 48 09 21.6 north.

Longitude 122 40 08.0 west.

h. m. a.
Or, in time 8 10 40.5.

The magnetic variation was 21° 40' in August 1850, and the present yearly
increase is 1'.

It illuminates an arc of 270^ of the horizon, and commands Admiralty Inlet
and the approaches. It sees New Dungeness light, but Bluut's Island light is
hidden by Point Partridge.

COAST PILOT OF WASIIINCJTON TKIMJITOUY.

li.i.

]

rnncoHvcr,

jinls oast-

tluTii face,

invariably

can easily

I Head, or
le to a low,
s tiu> liigh
i<;ooii, antl
rid a depth
[ikcs out of
•r<Mit is 80
he sea.

iroufrh the
intiiig tho
al plane is
evel of the

)f Frcsnel,
[lud shows
should be

.6 north.
.0 west.

ent yearly

ralty Inlet
nd li<>'ht is

From Point Wilson it licars northeast l»y east, disinnt tliree mid a (iiiii'h'.
miles.

From Marrowstone Point north by west one-t|iiart«'r west, distant tiiree and
a ({uaiter miles.

From Xew i3uu;iencss li;{ht east l»y north half north, distant seventeen and
two-thirds miles.

From Point Partrid;,'e southeast by east three-ei;(hths east, tlistant live and
two- thirds niih's.

Admiralty Head was named Red JJIiilV by the United States lOxploriii;^ F\pe-
dition in 1S41, but it has now no eolor to snjjt|;est the apiiellation. iioth names
ure used on the Paeitie eoast.

Starting: from abreast ^larrowstone Point the mid channel course u|i Ad-
nuralty Inlet runs southeast by sontli one tiiird south for seven miles. Tin- siiores
on either liand are bluffs of api)arently uniform hei;;lit, covered witli trees. About
live miles on this course is passed, on the eastein slnne, a low point, with one or
two clumps of trees and bushes, to which has been ^^iven the name Jbish Point.*
On the western shore is a rounding' blutf point, one mile north of the point whieli
forms the northeast jiart of Oak Hay. Olf tiiis i»oint is piod anchoraj;*' in
twelve or fifteen fatlntn.s. The peculiar ;;('(»lojiical formations found in the vicinity
sufiS'ested the \'sii.'ii:i.'. ion Noduh' Point,* which it now liears. The hij;h. bold
headland, several miles directly ahead, is Fonlweather P»lulf,t and that to the east-
southeast destitute of trees, except (»ne large cinmp, which marks it conspici'ously
from this direction, is Double IJliitV.* The deep indentation between it and P.ush
Point, with low land in the rear, is Mutiny Hay,* in the northern part of which
exists a nari'ow bank of eleven fathoms, affordiu};' an excellent fishing jiionnd.
At the einl of the course. Oak liayf opens to the westward, and stretches toward
the waters of Port Townshend. It has bluff shores nearly all around it, those on
the southwest face beiu;^' limestone; Init Jhisalt Point, § at the south, derives its
name from its };eolo}>ical structure. The depth of water is five to fifteen fathoms,
except north-northwest of Hasalt Point, where it reaches twenty-five and thirty
fathoms. The length of the bay is three miles, and its averaj^e width about aio
and a half miles. In beatinjf out of the inlet, with a favorable current, vessels
must not attempt to work to this bay for the sake (jf a lonu' fiu;k.

Vancouver named it Oak Cove, his people having reported tiiat oak trees
stood upon its shores. We have traversed the greater part of the shores but
found none.

The opening west of Fonlweather Bluft' is Hood's Canal. Vessels bound into
it keep close to the western shore of the bluff, and pass two low points lying near
together. The water oti' them is deep. Off the north face of Fonlweather, for

30*

* XiiiiumI by tlie United States Coast Survey in IKJf).

tXaiiH'd liy Vancouver in \1\yi. The Indian nanx! for FoulweatUer is I'ittli-pol.
X Nanu'd by Vancouver in I79'i.

* Named by tlie United States Const Survey iu iHoti

234

COAST PILOT OF WAPITIXGTOX TERIUTORY.

noavly a iiiilo, loss than fiftcoii fathoms may be toiiiid. Kolp exists undor tlio fare
oi' the bhiff, and vessels may pass aronnd it in six and seven fatiionis. The b(,t-
tom, ahtn}"' the edji<> of the kelp, is i-oeky. On the west side of the entrance to
Ilood's Canal is Port Ludlow, whieh will l)e desiuibed hereafter.

The next or third eourse up the inlet is east-southeast for ten niiies, i)assin{;,
on the eastward, Double Bluff, whieh stretches northeast for a mile, and rises
three hundred or four hundred reet in hei<;ht, having its top covered with wood.
The blulf running' also to the ninthward forms Useless iJay.* This bay has deep
water over the greater portion of it, with a larfj;e shallow bay called Deer Laj^ooUjt
at its head. The high bluff forming the southern point of Useless Bay is Satchet
Ilead.t A similar bluft' lies t..o miles east by south of it. These form the south-
ern extremity of Whidbey Island, in latitude 47° oi' north, and are the torning
points into Possession Sound.

The two heads are about three hundred feet high, coveied Avith wood, and
separated by a depression, which is in part overflowed at high tide, and then pre-
sents the appearance of a small bay. Fn)m the eastern head round the western,
and a mile toward Useless Bay, the low-w.iter 'ine nuikes out half a mile, the shore
being bare, where some recent maps have deep water. For nearly a mile st)uth of
both heads a depth of eight and ten fatlioms, and smooth, sandy bottom can be
found. We found, when anclKued for several days off the eastern head, a strong
under-currenr ru.iuing into Possession Sound, and an upper current setting to the
Avestward at all tides. Vancouver makes mention of the shoal, and states that
beating iuto the inlet he stood on the bank until he got iive fathoms, but want of
time pi-ecluded his examining it.

On the western side of the last mid-channel course Foulweather Bluff Avas
passed. It isperpeiulicularon its north-northwest face, and about two hundreil and
twenty-five feet high, Avith lieaA^y firs upon its summit. It slopes towards the east
to a bluff' forty feet high, but is steep on the side next to Ilood's Canal. The low
point four miles east of it is Point Xo Point, § making well (»ut, and destitute of
trees or bushes. Between it and Foulweather is a deep bight, and the distance
across the neck to Ilood's Canal is only a (pnirterof a mile in one part, marked by
the tra(;k of a recent tormido that has twisted off and ujuooted firs of three and
four feet diameter. On the south side of Point No Point is good anchorage in
ten fathoms ; and thence the western shore runs nearly straight southeast by south
for ten miles.

At the end of the last course, Avhich carried us three miles beyond Point No
Point, the inlet expands" to a wi<lth of seven miles. A course east-northeast for
three miles and a half carries us to the entrance of P(»ssession Sound, the lirst six

'Xaiiit'il liy the Tnitcd States i;x|iliiriii^f I'.xpfditiciii, l-^ll.

t Disfiivcicil and naiiu'd liy tlic Initcd Slati's Cnast Survey, lr.")(!.

} Xaiiied liy the I'liited States Kxiiloriiig l^xiieditiou, IS.'l, The innjier njielliiig is Skrtdg'-it,
nnd the Indian name ot" the jioiut, Sktudhks.

ij Named by United States Exploring Exiiedition, 1641. The Indian name I'or the jioint is
Halid-skiis.

COAST PILOT OF WASUI^XITON TEKIUTOIIY.

235

niiles (.■'■ v'iiich run north half west, witli a width of two mik's, and blnft' shores.
It then tnrns to the northwestward to Port (lardner. The water is (h'ep in tlio
entrance, and atVords no aiii;hora;4'e. The h)w point on the eastern slu)re, four
miles after entering, is Point Klliott,* and the bay opening to the northeast receives
the Sinahouiis or Scaget liiver.

Tlie next or fourth mid-channel course ixp the inlet is south-southeast for
twenty-one miles to Allen's Bank, which lies a mile off the north end of Vashon
Island. Five miles on this course, or seven from Point No Point, brings us to an
excellent little luirbor on the western side of the inlet, called Ai»ple Tvee Cove,*
having a low point ou the north side, with a soft mud fl::t extending several liun-
dred yards up the inlet. From five to twelve fathoms water and sticky bottom
are found otf it and in the cove. Tliere is no fresh water in the vicinity, but very
good timber may be ])rocured suitable for l)oat spars and booms. On the eastern
shore of the inlet, abreast of ibis cove, are two low points, a mile apart, making
out from the blutf. The indentation between them forms a good though small an-
chorage, and the chances are good for fresh water at high tide. The southern
point is named Point Wells,* the nortiuu'u Point Edmund.* The inlet is liere
only three miles wide, and continues so to Point Jerterson,* two miles southward
of Apple Tree Cove. This is a nu»derately low, straight blutf, with the ground
rising behind it, ami covered with timber. Stretching broad olf its eastern face
for three-quarters of a mile we discovered, in ISoii, a n ine-fathom shoal, which
affords capital auchf age r vessels when drifting with light airs and adverse
currents.

POUTS MADISON AND OKCHAKD.

Point Jeflerson is the northern side of the entrance to this port, which runs
three miles west-southwest, with an average width of two miles and a large depth
of water, exce])r uiuler Point Jeflerson, Avhere anchorage may be had in ten and
fifteen fathoms, hard sandy botton, witli patches of kelp inshore.

The southeast point of the entrance is low and sandy, making out from high
■wooded ground. One mile west of it is tin; narrow entrance to a natural canal,
upon which, in full view, are situated the Port Madison sav> -mills. At the sontli-
west part of the bay is the A'cry narrow entrance to Port Orchard. The channel
is somewhat crooked, but it has three and four fathoms water in it. On the west-
ern side of this entrance are some white patches of beach, formed by clam shells.
In 1857 an Indian village was situated here, and an Iiidian sub-agency. P.oth
sides of the entrance are blurt's. Vessels not well ac(pminted .vith tiu' channel
must enter under easy sail, and keep a lead going on eacii side of the vessel to
ascertain where the deepest water lies. After getting througii, give the point, (»ne
mile otf ou the western side, a berth of nearly half a mile, to avoid a shoal which
makes out east from it. Thence it is i>lain sailing in tifteeu to twenty-five fathoms
of water. xVfter passing the lirst point, an arm 0!)ens to the northwest, and niiny

Named liy Uuitfd .States Exploring Expedition, 1^11.

Wf^

l\ >i

236

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

,|:

vcssds load there with spars. Ton miles up the southern channel is an arm five
miles long, stretching to the west-northwest. The depth of water ranges from
three to seventeen fathoms, an<l at the upper basin are found beds of oysters. A
saw-mill has been erected on this arm. In coming out of Port Orchard vessels
should not trust the southern entrance, but leave as they entered. See remarks
under heading, "Restoration Point."

Port Orchard was examined and named by Vancouver in 1702.

Tort Ma(lis(m was nanu'd by the United States Exploring Expedition in 18-41.
The Indiiin nanu? is Noo-soh'-kum.

BainhruUje IslaiHl lies between Port Orchard, Port Madisou, and Admiralty
Inlet. It is eight or nine miles long by two and a half in breadth, and its general
direction is southeast by south. A few loggers' huts stand on the western side,
and the Madison saw-mill at the north end. On the southeast i)art it is indented
by two small harbors. It was named by the United States Exploring Expedition
in 1811.

SI-BATTLE AND DUWAMISH BAY.

Abreast of Port Madison the eastern shore of the iidet retreats and there
receives several small streams of water, but it gradually makes out into a very
long, low sand point, called West Point,* which forms the extreme northwest part
of the entrance to Duwamish Bay. The l>ay runs east by south six and a half
miles and hiis a width of two miles. To the south pf>int, called Battery Point,t
which is low and l)arc, with a curiously shaped mouiul rising sharply behind it,
the ccmrse is about southeast by south, : id distance four and a half miles.
Under West Point there is anchorage in ten to lifteen fathoms after getting
towai'ds the bluff; but on the north side of the point the water is very deep.
Thi'ough the center of the bay the depth ranges from eighty-eight to forty
iiithoms. On the north side of Battery Point a vessel iinchoring in twenty
fathoms cannot have a greater scope of chain than thirty-live fathoms without
being too close to the shore. Wlicn we anchored there in thirteen fathoms and
veered to twenty-five fathoms of chain the vessel's st(M'n was in two and a half
fathoms. The beach is smooth and very regular, being com])osed of sand and
gravel. On this side of Battery Point is the deserted town of Alki, (the Indian
phrase for "by and by.") The towri has had several names, but there is nothing
about it to command trade.

The blurt' head within the bay, two miles north-ncn-theast of Battery Point, is
Duwamish Ilead.f It is steej), abtmt one bundled and fifty feet high, covered with
timber, and the beach at low water stretches ont over a <piarter of a mile north-

* Naiuod by the United Stiites Exploring Expi'ditiou, 1841.

t Nanifd by tlie United States Count Survey, isr)(j. Tlic Englisli Admiralty Chart No. 1911,
with eorrectioiiH to IHCm, calls liiis Kobeits' Point, although there is the same name at themoutli of
Frazer h'iver. The Indian name is .Me-kwah-mnoks.

t Named by the United States Coast Survey, 18.50.

COAST PILOT OF WASIIINdTON TEIMUTOKY.

northwest from it. The head of the bay receives the Dmvainish River, and for
one or two miles is an extensive tiat, hare at h)w water.

Tlie town of Seattk> is on a small point at tlie northeast part of the baj-, a
little over li\-e miles inside of West Point. It consists of a few honses and stores
n chnrch and a small saw-mill ; and a nnmber of nni\ersity bnildings are to bo
erected, (18G2.) It has but little trade.

The usual anch()ra-«e is directly off the wharf in k'u to fifteen fathoms water,
■with the large white house on the extreme i)()int bearing about east or east by
south, and at a distance from the beach of about tive hundred yards. This
position will eiutble a vessel to work out well by making the lirst tack to the
southward, towards the flat. If it be high water, tliis Hat cannot be distin-
guished, and th(( h'ad mu.st be kept going. When a depth of IHteen fathoms is
struck, go about, for it shoals to three fathoms very suddenly, and keeping on,
Avould soon bring up a vessel on the flat. If the current be ebb, vessels bound out
should stand well in to the inlet; and if hound up, should work close under ami
around Duwamish Head, to Battery Point. If tlie current be flood, vessels bound
out should work under the north shore, ami close to AVest Poi'.t ; if bound u].,
sliould work under the north shore, about three and a half miles to Jlagnolia
Bluti, beyond a low marshy indentation iu the shore, or untd they can fetch well
clear of Battery Point. From Seattle tiuMc is telegrai>hic communication with
San Francisco, Portland, Olympia, Steilacoom, Belliiigham Bay, and Victoria.

Tiiere is some good agricultural prairie land on the Duwamish River. Some
distance up, it is connected with a series of lakes that stretc-h to the west-north-
west and by a small stream reach the inlet Just mu'thofWest Point. Amon<'-
these lakes good coal is reported. Lake A\'a.sliiiigton is reported to be twenty-five
miles long, and two or three miles wide, with islanils iu it. It is t»ut a lew miles in
a direct line east of Seattle.

The town of Seattle was attacked by a small body of Indians, in 1S.j5, buc
the assault was repelled by the United States steamer .Massatihusetts.

The bay was called Elliott's Bay by the IJuite.l States Exploring Exi)edition
in 1841, but the present mune is that by which it is invariably known, and was
adopted from the name of the tribe of Indians iniiabiting its shores. Tlie nanu'. of
the town is derived from that of the chief, Se-at-tlh.

The Coast Survey report for I8.-)I was accompanied by a reconnaissance
sketch of Duwamish Bay and Seattle ilarbor.

KESTOUATION POINT.

From the southeast point of Port Madison to this point, the shore is blulV and
somewhat irregular, and is indentecl, first by Eagle Harbor,* having a hnig
pebbly spit making out three or four bundled yards southeast from its north
point; and next, at Point Restorati.m, by Blakely Ilarlxu.* having off its entiance
a large rock, tifteeii feet high, with dee)) water all round it. The rock bears

•Named by the Uuited States Exiiloring Expclitioii, Ifiil.

■Hill

■i\

238 COAST PILOT OF WASUIXGTON TEKlflTOllY.

nearly nortli-nortlnvost, tlirec-qiiarters of a mile from the point, and tlio bottom
between is irregular, the depth ranging from twenty to forty fathoms. Blakely
Harbor is only a <iuarter of a mile wide, and three-<inartt!rs long, with eighteen
fathoms stieky bottom at its month, and shoaling gradually inside, but most on
the south side. A hydrographic sketch of the harbor is given in the Coast Sur-
Acy Iteport for 1850.

Eagle Harbor is larger and more coiuTnodious than Blakely. AVc discovered
the shoal off its north i>oint in ISoO.

l\'estoration Point is in some respects very jieculiar; no other in these waters,
exeejit Battery Point, presenting the same formation. For three hundred yards
it is flat, about ten feet above high water, and has a foot depth of soil covered
with grass, over a limestone rock, upheaved nearly on edge, the direction of the
strata pointing toward Mattery Point, or a little south of it. Inshore it rises
up sharply about one hundred feet, its sides covered with grass, and the summit
Avitli fir trees. Around the whole southeast face of the point these peculiarities
exist. On the upper levels of the high laud adjacent our party found small
lakes of water.

From the extremity of the point a ledge, bare at low tides, makes out three
Inuulred yards, but the de])th is six fathoms one humlred yards ott' its extremity,
and sixteen fathoms at a quarter of a mile. On the tail of this ledge the United
States sloojt of war Decatur struck in 18.j5. South-southeast of the i)oint, anchor-
age may be had in tifteeu fathoms, sticky bottom, a quarter of a mile distant ; or,
as a rule for linding anchorage, bring the rock north of it to range just over and
inside of the iioint. Kelp exists along the .southern face.

The geographical ])osition of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey
ui)ou this point is:

Q I It

Latitude 47 35 05.8 north.

Longitude 121* 28 15.2 west.

/(. hi. fl.

Or, in time 8 00 .5;?.0.

From this point Battery Point bears east by north half uorth, distant two
and a half miles.

7V(/<'.s'. — The approximate corrected establishment is 4/(. 4jh., and the approxi-
mate nu'an rise and fall of tides 7.4 feet.

A'anconver anchored under this \m\\\\ in 1702; found large iuuid)ers of
Indians located near, and lirst called it Village Point, but changed it to its
present name in commemoration of the day on which he anchored. From this
place his boats explored all the waters adjacent.

South of Restoration the inlet opens to tiie westward for a con]»le of miles
into a bay, in which is situated an island about three-quarters of a mile in extent,
called Blake Islaiul.* From the northwest part t»f the bay leads a narrow,

•

* Naimil by the United States Exi)loiinj; Expedition, 1841.

le bottom
, Blakdy
I eighteen
t most ou
!oast Sur-

iliseovered

'se waters,
Ired yards
il covered
ion of tlie
•e it rises
lie summit
'culiarities
mild small

out three
extremity,
he United
lit, anehor-
istaiit ; or,
5t over and

ast Survey

i.S uortli.
).2 west.

5.0.
listant two

lie approxi-

lumbers of

d it to its

From this

do of miles
' in extent,
a narrow.

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTOX TERRITOKY. 239

crooked pass, three miles lonpr, to the southern part of Port Orchard, which
spreads out into several arms. The jiass is obstructed by rocks, and is dillicult
of navigation. The winds are variable, light, and uncertain at its narrowest part,
where it makes a sharp turn, and is only a couple of hundred yards wide, witii a
rushing, swirling current. The channel generally used, although narrower than
the one just mentioned, is that leading into Port IMadison.

The last course reached Allen Bank,* ofit' the north end of Vaslion Island,
with Blake Island to the westward and three-quarters of a mile distant. This
bank is nearly a mile in extent, and has as little as ten fathoms uixm it, witii a
variable bottom, in some places mud ind in others hard sand. At our anchorage
upon it in eleven fathoms, the south end of Blake Island bore Avest three-quar-
ters north, and tlie northwest point of Yaslion Island south half east. Between the
anchorage and Blake Island the water regularly deepens to about eighteen fath-
oms, in soft mud. This anchorage has proved of great service to vessels losing
the wind and having adverse currents. In some recent maps, twenty-five to
thirty fathoms are marked in the position of this shoal. The eastern point of
Blake Island is low and pebbly, and called by the natives Tatugli. Under it is
anchorage in seventeen and eighteen fathoms, soft miitl. Tiie n(U'theast point of
Vashon Island is Dolphin Point, t the northwest point Point Vashon :t the point
abreast of it is Point Southwoitli,| and the mile-wide channel commencing
between the last two points is Colvos Passage,| running west of Vaslion Island.

The extent of shore-line, from the entrance of Admiralty Inlet to the north
end of Vashon Island, is two hundred and forty-one miles.

The main body of the inlet continues about southeast for eight miles, and
then south-southwest eight miles further, M-ith an average width of two miles.
In this stretch the currents are moderately strong, the chances for anchoring few,
and it is sometimes calm, while a fine breeze is blowing through t'olvos Passage.

lintiT Poiiif^ lies on the east side of the inlet, northeast from Dolphin Point.
The round-topped point having two or three lone fir trees upon it, and situated on
the same side of the inlet, four miles south of Brace Point, is called Point Piil-
ley.f The water is very deep close to it on either side.

The geograi)Iiical i)osition of the triangiilation station of the Coast Survey on
the summit of the mound at Point Pulley is:

o // /

I^atitude 47 27 07.,'] north.

Longitude 12L' 2'J 21 .."i Avest.

h. III. n.

Or, in time 8 ()<) 2'.>.4

There is a small bight north of Brace Point, and between it and anotiier low
point called Fauntleroy Cove,t having good anchorage in ten and twelve fathoms,

* DiwoviTi'il and naiiit'il by the Uliited Stiiti'8 Coast Survey in leii)?.

tXanicd liy tlio tTnitcil .States Coast Siiivcv. 1S.')7.

t Nanit'd by the I'liitt'd States Kxi)loiinij; ICxiieditiou, 1841.

J Named liy (lie Ignited States Coast Snrvf'y in 18,')().

!-!'(l

240

COAST PILOT OP AVASITINGTON TEREITOEY.

and fresh water is easily obtained in the vicinity. Between lirace Point and
Point Pnlly, two or three small streams of water empty, and another stream
comes from tiic valley a mile east of the high bluff at Tiilly. Off this valley a
Hat makes out, with deep water at its edge.

Under Dolphin Point there is very deep water; but off the north end of
the island, near this point, we tbund anchorage in fourteen fatiioms, hard bottom.

ColvoH rusmujc is the usual, we may say the invariably used, ship cluinnel
towards Puget Sound. It is about a mJe wide, with higli blutf shores, varied by
numerous small, low sand points making out from the face of the bluff, and having
deep water off them. Tlu> i»assage is eleven miles long to the south end of
Vashon Island, which is called Dalco Point,* and it runs with a nearly slraight
c<mrse south l)y east. A mile and a half inside of Point Vashon there is a small
curve in the shore line called Fern Cove,t with excellent andiorage in live and
ten fathoms. Abreast of Dalco Point on the western shore there is a small harbor,
with a narrow and shoal entrance, called CJig Uarbor.* Looking out of the pas-
sage to the north Mount Baker shows distinctly in clear weather.

COMMENCEMENT BAY.

AVhen abreast of Dalco Point, this bay, at the termination of Admiralty
Inlet, opens to the east-southeast, and over its low background shows the high
snow-covered peak of Mount Painier. The general direction of the bay is east by
south half south, Avith a length of three or four miles, a width of two miles,
and a great depth of water up t«> tiie line of the extensive tlat at its head, which
is backed by nuiish. There are no settlements upon it, but in 1857 we found some
deserted lishing stations.

It was named in i7!>2, by Vancouver, who thonght this the entrance to some
large arm of the inlet, on account of the low country beyond.

The Indian mime for this bay is Puyallu]).

Vanhon Lshind, lying between the soutLern extremity of the iidet and Colvos
Passage, is eleven and one-half miles long, with an average Avidth of two and one-
half miles. Halfway down on its eastern side lies a curiously-shaped i)eninsula,
formed by a narrow, low, sandy neck of land, which makes out into liu' inlet, and
then runs towards the sontli point of the islaiul. The space between this ]H'nin-
sula and the island is an excellent harbor four or live miles long, and three-quar-
ters of a mile wide, with five to ten fathoms water in it. Tiie southeast face of
the peninsula is high and steep, and bordered by water from Ibrty to fifty fath-
oms deej). The English Admiralty chart No. 11)11 notes this peninsula as an
island named JNIaury Island, with nine feet water where it is nearest Vashon.

The island is liigh, with steei> shores, covered with wood and nnd('rj,,()wth.
Its surface is marshy in many i)arts tliat are quite elevat<'d. Tin' present name
Avas given by Vancouver, in 1792. The harbor formed by it and the peninsula

* Niimed by the I'liitcd .States Kxiilorinir Ex])<>(litioii, 1841.
t Xiiiued by the United States Coiwt .Survey, 1857.

> Point and
tlu'i- stream
liis valley a

lortU oiul of
avd bottom.
;hi]> channel
s, varied by
f, and liavinj^-
^outli end of
luly snaijtht
le is a small
e in live and
^mall harbor,
t of the pas-

)f Admiralty
)ws tlie high
jay is east by
)f two miles,
head, wiiich
c fonnd some

lice to some

and Colvos

wo and one-

'd i)eniiisnla,

le inlet, and

this ])enin-

tlnee (jnar-
east face of
i> fifty fath-

isiilii as an

Vashon.
ind('rj,,owth.
I'esent name
le peninsula

COAST PILOT OF ^VASIIl^'(iTON TEKIUTOUY.

241

was called Quartermaster ITarbor by the I'nited States Exiilorins Ivxpedition in
1841.

I'OINT DKFIAXCK AND TIIK NAltlUnVS.*

The high, sharp, yellow blulf facing the south entrance to Colvos I'assage,
is called Point Jh'Jidiia; and between it ami the western shore pass ail the waters
of Paget Sound. This passage is called the Nanoics. Its average width is three-
quarters of a mile, and very uniform; the shores are high, bold, aiul in some
places rocky. For two miles to the southeast its course is a n'gular (Mir\ c. The
next turn is to the southward, and at a distance of two miles in that direction the
waters of the sound open ahead, with a narrow pass between the main and I'ox
Island to the west ; and a small indentation, backed by low ground, and formed
on the south by a small ]»eninsnla, on tiie "ast. In this bight is au'-horage in fif-
teen fathoms, with swirling eddies. On the south face of this peninsula, and out-
side of the kelp, anchorage may also be had.

UGET SOUND.

This collection of inlets commences after i)assing " The Narrows,'' and covers
an area of fourteen miles by twenty-two, with a general direction southwest
tlireequarters south. Tlie aggregate shore-line of this sound, and the adjacent
])art of Admiralty Inlet, Mith Colvos Passage, to the north end of Vaslion Island,
is not less than three hundred aiul seventy miles. U])on its shores are situated
the settlements of Steilacoom, ]Sis<pially, Olympia, and Newmarket.

It received its present name in 17l>i!, from Vancouver, in compliment to Lieu-
tenant Puget, w ho explored it.

.STEILACOOM.

On the eastern shore of Puget Sound, nine miles south of Point Detianee, is
situated the town or village of Steilacoom, upon a rising blutl". It consists of a
few houses. Fort Steilacoom stands about a jnile inland, upon a piece of gravelly
prairie, and roads lead from it to the tow!i and the creek.

The neighboring country is only moderately well adapted to agriculture,
exce])t along the bottoms of the small sticams.

The usual anchorage is in fifteen fathoms, hard bottom, and about four
hundred or five hundred yards from the shore. An island lying two and
one-ipuirter miles distant, and to the west of that i)osition, is called McNeil, and
between it and Fox Island, to the northward, there is a i)assage a mile and a half
wide. Tlie passage on tiie south side of .McXeil Island, between it and Anderson
Island, is generally known as the IJalch Passage. It bears about southwest by
west from the anchorage, and is marked by a small wooded islet in it, called
Eagle Island, off which lies rocky bottom, and vessels keej) closer to the north

31*

'Named by the United States Kxploring Kxiiedition in 1841.

ppsp

'I I

OJ.O

COAST PILOT OF WASH IXC. TON TERHITOliY.

slioro. This pnssaffo is the diroi't «'liiiiiii('l to 01yiiii)ia, instead of foUowiiip: the
bi'oatl inic to the soiithwanl of Stcihicooiii.

The north end of the island, showing;' to the southward, and ouo uud one-half
miles from the anehoraj^e, is Kitmm Lshmtf,

One mile north of the anchorage is the mouth of a small stream called the
Steilacoom river.

In coming' to Steilacoom, or bound direct for Olympia, a patch of keli), with
foul bottom, and less than three fathoms of water upon it, must be avoided. It
bears soutli-southeast, one mile from the south end of Fox Islaml, and northwest
by west one and three-cpiarters miles from Steilacoom wharf. The tide rip upon it
and abreast of the town is very great; quite sufticient, with a little wind, toswamp
a small boat. The shores of the main anil the islands are bold, nearly uniform in
hei^iiit, and covered with trees.

Tt(liK.— T\n' corrected establislunent or mean interval between the time of
the moon's transit and the time of high water is 4/i. IGw. The mean rise
and fall of tides is !>.li feet, of spring tides, 11.1 feet, of neap tides, 7.- feet.
The mean duration of the flood is 6h. 3m., of the ebb, 6h. 25hj., and of the stand,
2Am. The ditference between the rise of the highest tide and the fall of the low-
est tide observed was 1S.',\ feet. The greatest difference observed between the
height of the two low waters of one day was 12.2 feet, and the greatest differ-
ence between tiie higher high and lower low waters of a day was 7.7.

The tides of the same day are generallj' unciiual in proportion to the moon's
declination. The times and heights can be obtained approxinuitely from the fol-
lowing table:

Moon's upper meridian passage.

Mimi'a ilpclinatinn.

Greatest nerlli.

Zero

Grnatest south.

High water.

I,ow water.

lutcrral. | Height, i I"t .>al. Height.

Moon's lower nicrlilian passage.

High water.

Low water.

Interval. Height. ; Interval.

H.ir.

16 0!)

17 00

18 ,in

Feet.
II. 1
1','. U
IS. 6

n. ii.

Feet.

at 44

—0.8

iiM i.">

2.6

2:1 .•)!»

g..")

II. M.

18 30
17 (iO
16 (><)

Feet.
12.6
12.9
11.1

H.il.

2;t 59

2,1 2.-)
23 44

Height.
Feet.

2.6
—0.8

The interval is to be added to the time of the moon's meridian passage, to
give the time of high or low water. Tiie time of the moon's upper meridian pass-
age is given in the Almanac, and the time of its lower meridian passage is the
middle between two successive upper passages. The heights are given in feet and
tenths, and show the rise above the level of the average of the lowest low waters,
to which level the soundings on the chart are given.

t<pnng tides. — At Jie full and change of the moon the high waters will be 0.7
foot higher tlian the above, and the low waters 0.9 foot lower.

Neap tides. — At the moon's flrst and last quarters the high waters will be 0.7
foot lower, and the low waters will not fall as low bv 0.0 foot.

owing the

III oiu'-half

called the

Ivcli), with
oidi'd. It
northwest
ip ui)on it
I, to. swamp
unil'orm iu

be time of
mean rise
's, 1:2 feet,
the stand,
►f the low-
jtween the
test diller-

tlie moon's
>ni the fol-

pa89aj;p.

val.

Height.

if.

Ffet.

-.9

a.-i

-."1

a. 6

—0.8

)assaj.;e, to
idian pass-
ige is the
n feet and
Lnv waters,

will be 0.7

COA8T PILOT OF ^VASIllNOTOX TKIMMTOKY. 241)

From Steilacoom there is telefjjraphic «'()mmnnieati(»n with San Francisco,
rortland. 01ymi»ia, Seattle, Ijellin^ihani r.ay. and Victoria.

Tiic pronnnriation of the nam*' Stcilafoom, as j^'ivcn to us by Fiidialis, i.^
Tchil' a'iMini. On the Admiralty maps of ISIT we find it ("liehikoom.

A reconnai.s.sance sheet uf Steihicoom iiarbor was published by the Coast Sur-
vey in JS.">(}.

XiiKjuallif, five miles south of Steilacoom, and on tlie sanie side of the sound,
is, tit present, a place of no trade or importance. It was one of the early posts of
the Ilud.son Hay C(»inpany, and is still oceupii'd by them. An extensive mud tlat
exists otf the mouth of the wide, marshy valley, but the depth of water is very
great close to it, and the anchorage room very nuu-h contracted. Tlie River Xis-
qually empties here, and we believe there are two small s<uv-mills upon it. The
name is Indian.

OLVMriA.

It would be almost useless to attenjpt to describe the route to Olympia from
Steilacoom. as a pilot or a map is absolutely necessary in making the jtassage.
The mid-channel <'ourse is twcutyono miles in length, and its width from half a
mile to a mile and a half.

Olympia is situ^ited at the head of Budd Inlet,* which is six nules long, three-
quarters of a mile wide, and runs nearly south. The shores are steep and wooded,
and the head of the bay an immense mud Hat, behind which is the town. It
acrpiires prospective importance by being the capital of the Territory, but espe-
cially on account of its proximity to the Cohunbia Eiver Valley and to the head-
waters of the Chehalis. There is a saw-mill at Newmarket, two miles .south on
the Tumwater, and three others in the vicinity, besides one or two grist-mills.

A depth of three fathom.s can be carried on the west side of Uudd Inlet,
within one and a half mileo of the wharf, and one fathom within a mile on the
eastern side. Vessels are brought up to the wharf at the highest tides, and then
rest in the mud until ready to leave.

TIDES.

The approximate corrected establishnuMit is 5/i. 8m., and the mean ri.so and
tall of tides 0.2 feet.

The greatest difference between the highest and lowest tides is reported about
twenty-four feet, and is doubtless more than this, when we comi)are its position
with that of Steilacoom.

The approximate geographical position of the wharf, as determined by tho
United States States Coast Survey, is :

Latitude 47 03 00 north.

Longitude 122 55 00 west.

h. m. ».
Or, in time S 11 -tO.O

"Kiuued !))• the Uiiitod States Exploring EsiM>ilitioii in 1'::'41.

24-4

COAST PILOT or WASIIINC.TON TKHKITOUY.

Tho oomputoil masnctio variation wa3 20^ 17' oast in July 1850, and tho
present yearly iiierease 1'.

A liy(lni};rai)liic reconnaissance of IJudcl lulet was published by the Coast
Survey in isr»(i.

rroiu Olynipia there is telegraphic conininnication with San Francisco, Port-
laud, SleilacooiM, Seattle, Px-Ilinj^liain Hay, and Victoria.

Sawmills have been built on llainniersley Inli't* and on Jlendersctn Inlet.*

HOOD'S CAXAL.t

The entrance to this arm ot" Admiralty Iidet lies between Basalt Point and
Foulweather IMntV, the latter bearing east three-quarters south, distant three and
one-third miles tV(»m the fornu'r.

The first mid-clmnnel ctmrse is southeast ftu' four miles, pointing directly into
Port Cnmble, at the entrance to w'.ich the houses and mill are plainly visible; and
passing a high, round, wooded peninsula on the west side of the chainiel, and con-
nected with the main by a narrow lu-ck of low sand beach. This is fre(piently
mistaken for an island, and is named Hood's IIead.| lietween this head and Port
Gamble the canal changes its course and runs in nearly a straight line south by
west forty miles, with an average width of one and a half miles. In latitude 47°
21' nt)rth it makes an abrupt turn, ami runs for twelve or tliirteen miles about
northeast.

PORT LUDLOW.

Close to Basalt Point lie some rocks, with others about half a mile southeast,
called the Colros h'ocli.s,^ among which is one twenty-five feet high, but of snudl
extent. Close in shore, and abreast of this, is a I'ock just awash at high tide, but
between the two runs a channel with fifteen fathoms water, having soft, muddy bot-
tom. The bright bluff head, one and a quarter miles southeast of the Colvos liocks,
and about two miles southwest by west from Foulweather Bluff, is Tula Poini.*
Half Avay between the Colvos and this point is the usual entrance, over a sand bar
having four and a half fathoms. The three-fathom line stretches half a mile south-
east of Colvos. If the wind and currents do m)t suit for this channel, run inside of
the Colvos, carrying deep water and eight fathoms, soft, muddy bottom, anywhere
inside of Tala Point, even past the saw-mill, if necessary. The general direction of
the shore from Basalt Point to the saw-mill on the low sand point Inside is south-
southeast two and a luilf miles. Abreast of Tala the width of tho bay is three-
quarters of a mile, but it gradually contracts to less than half a mile at tho saw-
mill, at Mhich vessels load. Inside (tf the saw-mill point is an excellent anchorage
in seven and eight fathoms. Abcmt a mile from the mill is an anqde watei -power,
with an available head of eighty feet, but it is not used.

" Xniiu-d liy tlit' ITiiitcd Stiitcs I",xi>l(irinfj I'^xiiiMlitioii in 1iS4t.

< N:mii(l \i\ \',ni("iivcT, ]''.)•>.

;Naiii('(l liv the luitfd Statrs Coiist .'^uvvrv in IS'iG.

COAST riLOT OF WASIIIXCTOX TEniUTOllY.

245

6, and the

the Coast
.'isco, Tort-
n Inlet.*

Point and
three and

rootly into
isihie; and
I, and oon-
IVoiineiitly
1 and Tort
south by
titude 470
iles about

southeast,
t of small
I tide, but
luddy bot-
()s Ivocks,
la Point*
I sand bar
lile south-
1 inside of
anywhere
rection of

is sonth-
■ is tliree-

the saw-
ncliorage
ei-power,

, Of all the small harbors in these waters we do not hesitate to give this the
preferenec; as it is (•()iiii»h'te]y laiid-loeked. aud protected from "jalcs from every
quarter, by the hij,'li lantl and liij,'li trees around it. The tirst steamboat built in
these waters was lauuclu-d here in 1800.

It received its present name from the Cnited States Exploring Expedition in
1841.

The first rocks otV P.asalt lie at the narrow mouth of a sm dl boat harbor
called :\rats-mats. The entrance to it is over half a mile long, about one hundred
yards wide, aud at the sharp turn obstructed by rocks, which allow a channel of
only three feet water. Inside, the depth ranges to two fathoms, and the extent of
the harbor is about three(piarters of a nule by a third in breadth.

A map of Port Ludlow and Mats-uuits was published by the Coast Survey in
185G.

ronx GAMnLE.

After passing Foulweather Bluff, keep closer to the eastern shore than to the
western, to avoid the strong current passing round the low point which makes out
from tlood's Head. \l\\i\ for the sawmill, i)lainly in sight, on the western side of
tlie entrance to the bay, and when within a nule of it, approach the eastern bluil'
•within the third of a mile, in about ten or fifteen fathoms, gradually drawing closer
in shore, ami passing between the outer white and inner black can buoys. At the
lowest tides the white one is in fifteen feet, the black in twelve and a half and
the small spar buoy between them in mid-channel in seventeen feet, but it rarely
shows above water at any tide. After passing these buoys, the mill bears almost
south-southeast, half a mile distant. Steer southeast, or half way between the
mill wharf and the east point, pass to the east of the white spar buoy, which is in
twelve and a half feet, aiul run through the entrance, passi ig the wharf at I'bout
one-third of the distance between the points. Do not run uj) to the eastward, as a
shoal makes out almost parallel with the point. It may be here noticed that these
buoys Avere made and placed by the Puget Mill Company, for the benefit of vessels
trading to the port, (1857.)

If the wind is ahead while beating up, it will be impossible for a large-sized
vessel to get in, as the channel is half a mile long, and not over one hundred yards
wide at the narrowest part. Anchor off the buoys, and droj) in with the early flood,
or warp in with the last of the ebb. On the shoal forming the western side of the
passage ten feet may be found until up with the white spar buoy.

Inside of the points the bay appears to open well under the eastern one, but
the three-fatluMi line makes out on a line with the end of the point. On the west-
ern side was a crib, around which a shoal was forming; anchor just beyotd it in
five fathoms, soft muddy bottom. The depth of water throughout the bay is from
fimr to nine fathoms, with mud bottom. The length of the bay is two and a quarter
miles, its width three-quarters of a mile, and its direction soutlieast. The shores
are steep, but not high, and are bordered by sand and pebble beach, offering capi-

24(5 COAST PILOT OF WASIIINdTOX TKHKITOUY.

till cliiincos for Inmliiif,' n vessel ont. A hcttcr i»ln('(', however, for that pnrpo.st! ia

;it tlw t'liil of the store wharf, especially for v«'Hsels with lar;ie dead rise.

In summer (he wind {jeiierally blows into the harbor li-ihtly; in winter tho

southeast }rales draw directly out. Loaded vessels must warp out in siimnuT, or

trust t»» a li^^ht soutlierly air in the morniii;,', with an ebb tide. None but small,

smart working' vessels can beat out, ami a iew of those Ihue done so within the

channel limits.

The fj''*»fli'"l'l''*''»l position of the eastern point of the entrance, as determined

I
by the United States Coast Survey, is :

o ' "

Latitude 47 51 .12 north.

Longitude V12 .'53 50 west.

h. m. n.
Or, in time 8 10 L"i.7

The saw-mill here is thelarj^est and most effective in this part of the Territory,
cuttiufj at the rate of six or seven million.^ of feet of lund)er per year. Attached
to it are lath, shinj^le, and planing machines. A large quantity of the lumber and
rough sjKirs for masts are carried to Australia and the Sandwich Islands. 'SVithin
twt) or three seasons, ending with that of LS57, the number of outward-bimnd ves-
sels trading to the Sandwich Islands was lifteen; the average passage twenty-
six and a half days ; the siiortest i>assage nineteen days, and the longest thirty-two.
From the islands to the mill the number of vessels arriving was sixteen ; average
passage twenty-live and a half days; shortest passage fifteen days, and the longest
thirty-five days. Of thes(> one reported a passage of lifteen days to the mouth of
Fiica Strait, and nine days thence to the port, in the earlypart of September, h.iv-
ing encountered nearly continuous calms in the strait and inlet.

From this place, called Teekalet, (the Indian name of the bay,) aroad is being
constructed (I.S.">7) by the .Mill Company to Port 3Iadison.

The steam and smoke from the saw-mill are distinctly visible from part of Port
Townshend, over the low ground between that bay and Oak Cove.

It received its i)reseut iiume from the United States Exploring Expedition in
1811.

Tlie Coas , Survey report for 18.50 contained a hydrographic sketch of Port
Gamble,

Thi'fc miles from flood's Head, on the western side of the canal, Suquamish
harbor* opens. A large sand bank occupies its centre, and extends a mile in length
north-northwest, by half a mile in width. The approaches to the shoal, which
is in part bare, are detected in thick weather by the lead, the soundings decreas-
ing regulaily from twenty fathoms. Keep, however, close under the northern
shore, which runs two miles west-southwest from the low point called Termination
Point*

" N.'iuK'd liy tlio I'liited States l'2xploriiig Expodif ion in 1841.

COAST PILOT OV WASFIINdTON TKIMMTOUV.

247

Fourteen miles from Hood's Head tlie canal eiirves more to the soiitlnvanl, ami
then to the soiitlisoiithwest, around Ila/.el I'oint,* on the west side of which a
Inifie arm of the canal makes north for ten miles, Itifurc^atin;; near its head. On its
•western side, the eastern si»iirs of the Olymjnis range reach its waters, and form
tlio western shore-line of the canal to the threat bend. The shari* IH'ak named
Mount (!onstancet attains an elevation of seven thousand .seven hundred and
seven ty-seven feet.

Two miles south of Ilazel Point, and on the eastern side of the camd, is a tiiu^
harbor, formerly called IMininish JItobor* but the name has been chanped by set-
tlers, who have lately built a .small .saw-mill there. It is fornu'd by SeaLock Island
on the west, and is about a mile long by half a mile wide, with good bottom in
from ten to lifteen fathoms, the depth decreasing to the head.

kSoutli of th(> harbor, Llood's Canal is slightly contracted in width, but con-
tinues in the same general dirci-tion to about latitu(h' 17^-1' north, (" Vancouver's
farthest,") where it takes an abrupt turn, and stretches ea.st bynortii half north
four miles. Tli«? width iu that part contracts to half a mile, and the shores over-
lap. From tliis it takes another .slight bend, runs northeast by north eight or nine
miles, and reaches within two or three miles of the northern extremity of Case
Iidet,| an arm of I'ugct Sound. A large lake lies between the iidet and tiie canal.
AVhen Vancouver reached the lir.st sharp turn he thought he saw the termination of
the canal, and has plotted it in accordance with that view on his chart, four miles
beyond the point marked " Vancouver's farthest" on the admiralty charts. This
was, in fact, the highest point to which he carried his boat.s.

The name Hood's Caiml was given to it in 1792 by Vancouver. Its extent of
shore-line is not less than one hundred and ninety-two nules.

Before quitting our uiulertaking, we are induced to apjtend the following mete-
orological table, as it will give a good ich'a of the summer climate in this section.
The observations were made in the waters of Fuca Strait, A<bniralty Inlet, and
Paget Sound, the instruments being kept in the best shade practicable. The baro-
meter was an aneroid, read at the hours of 10 a. m. and t p. m., except in heavy
weather, when it Mas read every hour. The thermometer readings are Fahrenheit,
and reduced to the standard.

* Xaincd liy Vinirimvt'r in 170"J.

tN'aiiK'il by tlu^ I'liittd .stutos Const .<urvi>y in ]<u>,

t XaiiR'd l)y tlio Uiuteil .States Exi)loriiig Expedition, 1841,

248

COAST riLOT OF WASniNGTO:N^ TEKItlTORY.

Abntmct of mcteoroloffical observations, made ■n hoard the United States Coast Suri'ey
briff Fauntleroy, in the Strait of Juan dv Fuca, Arehipelayo de Ilaro, Admiralty
Inlet, and Piiget Sound, during the summers of 1855, '5(), «)irf'57.

t: s.

.::

t, =

1855.

3 «
■s ^

i 1

(«

-=*.

? 5 t^

2 i- .S

In.

-=■

.Tulv

71. 5

5H. 3

90. 9

29.9

48.2

9. 4

33 7

0. 44

■z

70.2
65.8

53.4
52. 5

83.3
77.7

24.7
18.3

49.8
49.3

0.6

H.fi

29.7
20.0

.13
.91

Three weeks in Octolier

03.2

52.2

76.7

20.2

45.3

n.9

27.6

.38

GrcaU)»t range of tcmpcpatino during tln' above period, 45°. 6.
Greatest riiuf;e of liaronieter fnir.i .fune 24 to Oetober 18, = 92'inch.
A dry 8fa.son ; heavy Hoiitbeust j^alca i . September.

^ 1j

1836.

1 3
C .5

It. 2

" I

« 3

a
I

/n.

May :....

67.1

48.7

85.7

31.1

45.0

7.4

38.1

0.53

June

69.0

51.2

84.4

27.4

4.'). 7

10.3

34.0

.53

Julv

72.5
72.2

72.8

51.7
53.5
51.1

84.7
83.7
85.1

29.7
25.5
27.5

43. .

48.4
42.0

14.0
10.2
14.4

41.3
30.2

:u;. 5

.43

..->6
.69

Greati'.st raniie of temperature durini; tile above jieriod. 43^. 7,
GreateBl raii;;e , 1' barometer I'loiu April J.") to September 30, 0.85 inch.
A T^et 8ea.<«)n.

1857.

■/.

-.s.

r rt

v«

.«

1 ? a

"x S

1 5

Three woekH in May ' 71.7

June 7.-'. 2

July 74.9

Ati^Msl 73.8

Se)ilem\ier 6.">. 5

Two woekH iu October (iO. 1

o
48.4

o
101.5

46.9

o
38. 5

50.7

90.1

29. 2

43.0

51.0

89.2

20. 5

46.9

51. 1

88.0

2«.0

47.1

49. 8

76.4

23. 3

4:>. 2

48.9

68.7

10.3

43.4

18.1
13.1
9 3
9.7

8.5
7.8

46.
30.9
33.1
37.8
30.8
2.7. 1

1».

0. .vj

.(i2
.44
.46
.73
.65

Greiite.st raiiLie of temperature iliiri iix tlie altove perinil. 63 -.0.

Greatest raii;;e of bai'omeli r from May 12 to Oelolier 13, 0.79 inch.

A I'.ry ..(i.a.son, anil niaiked liy a week of remarkal)iy iiot wertlii'r at the do.se of May ami beKimuii^ of June,

The working svaaou of 1858 was wet, The working season of 1859 was di;'.

In.
0.79
1.19
0.01
0.08
0.70
0.74

Coast Surrey
9, Admiralty

In.

0.44
.1:1
.91

I In.

I 0.53
.53
.43
.t>6
.09

.a
1^

r3
i

(§

In.

0. ,VJ

0.79

.(«

1.19

.44

n.oi

.41)

0.08

.73

0.70

. (i5

0.74

JllIK'.

(X)AST P1I.()T OK WASIIINdTON TIOIMflTOIJV

1>41>

TIk' !ull(»\viiiy tiililt' will yivt' ii lew iulditioujil ik'in.s of the winttT moiitli.s of
180()-'(;i.

The ohst'i'Viition.s wciv miult' ut ()1\ iiii>i;i. ut tlic ollicc of tlic surveyor •;eiieral.

IHGO. ■ IRfil. l.i(il.

])(<'('iiilicr. Jaiiiinrv. I'lliinary.

Mil .timum teniporaturo

Jli'iiniiim tiiiipiTiituro

lie 11 liiiipcriitiirc ;

Am lint 111' snow in im-lirs / \,,

Anionnt iil'niiii ami inrltcil .sniiw in inilii h ' .

Da.VH Oil wliii'h .snow fell

Days ini whii'li .snnw lay on tin' ;;ionnil

DayH on wliicli rain till ;

Days on wliiili no rain iVU i

Xninln'V of tVoHty niorning.-i j

Niuiilior of clear days i

530

49°

53'^

33'^

14-'

31°

39-.7

3f^..J

43°. 3

icnird.

fi.4

ilo. ...

3.1

ill)

ilo

In the winter of lS(i(>-"07 the followiufj oh.sorvations were made by the Ignited
Slates Coa.st Survey party:

Novi'iiibcr IHfili .
December l.-'lifi .
•Tannary 1807 ...
Kelirnary I.''ii7 .
Mn-ii'li 1.j7 ....
April 1807

Clear i Kainy Voj; or Incliesof

days.

mist.

niinfall.

9. 893
8. 3ii0
■...lOti
5. 197
0. 880
3. 371

34. 100

Tlie cerealia generally grow well, but the eliinate i.s too cold for maize. Dur-
ing the winter a great anion'- of rain falls — a^' miieh as sixty inehe.s — and heavy
w 'ather prevails ]H-ineipally from the .southward. It is never cold enongh to form
thiek, clear, solid ice, which has to be brought from Kadiah, Alaska, for tho San
FiHucisro market.

32»

2r)0

(OAST riT,OT OF WASmXClTON THIJHITOHY.

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COAST riLOT OF WASHI^'CiTON TlvHKITOKV.

2:)1

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252

COAST PILOT OF WASIIIXCiTON TEl{KITOJJY.

: S

'ISII.I
■l|IM|rl.ll!A

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C3 *> . .

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^ t i ^ ^ i - ^ =^ ■-

c p ^s js c _n ^K ^:< _^M ^s

>'. 7

^. >' ~ Z is " 7

W A. W -A

5' •
fTI

1 i

5 ?

X ^ 5

c i'

ci a

f- i; 6- <

rt t* — Vj

■I w - 2

H c = -3

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?! 3 ?! ?!

=• — (- i.-j

=. -r = o

■ T tC

i'3 'E

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W M W tg

? so

r- ^^ ft- 2

COAST PILOT OF WASllI>'(JTOX TEKKITOliY.

i^ t- f « «

o o r: ?? is s. Tt

CD CC OU CC X X X

^ I- X «

c? C: x 15

O 'ft C» i'^

— — X TJ

1.1 X 00 »«

X X X X

X X /- /-

O "O o ■^ o o

«' It' — -r rr '/.' *-

11 T» -I re -r o o

?5 f I- r: -- ~ '-s r:

rt ^ ■;» '7f f -r c -f

5» -t r; rt 7' *' ^: -^

ct cr ':! f:i .7» ■:► ':» ti

i = z:

C-- c. — o

-r ■^ T" c;

:; 2: :; v,

C h- tl C i- -J C.

re o X

*- CI ft —

3 ?3 t: :J

*- i' X X X X X X> X X X X 7.

i- S ? C

s ■= ~

■? i > = 2

>^ ;& a s w ? w c i^ o r/ ;< c 1. 'a -7.

; I

£ -^ X

S 5!

1* J?

o re

X X

— Tt ce 5

■Tj

-/. i-

(*££

t -W .= ~ i -5 .= 5 i 5

' u

' —

t; h

— X

^ 7

•*

t ,»;

a* w

" 3

254

COAST PILOT OF WASHINGTON TEKMMTOHY.

Tahk' of mdijnetic casl dcclinaliini on the Faiijic roast of the I'litUtl States for the

year 1870.

I.oiijiitdilo went of OriMMiwicIi.

110^ 113' ' 120° 133-

i;w-'

133^

14(P 1450

130°

133°

160°

165^

170°

173'

IHO"

185°

190°

195^

o
30

.3i
14

12i 131 I'-'i
13 i 13^ 14

1
. 1

131 l4^

143
13J
l(l.i
17'

143

13.5
Kii
17A
1!)

171

ifli

171

i.-i ; 18J
1113 193

31 ■ 31
aoi 1 0.11

301 2(11

313

321

311
33

34 34 ; 34

..4

18J

10
16
16
17

18
19
30

14
14
14
14
14
15
16
17

13
13
13
13
13
13
14

343 33i i 33i 33.5
2(ii 37 > 37 J 2- J

38 38 88

■ 31 ! 303

'. . . ; :14

;

18
SO
20
21
31
34
30
38
30
33
34

10
10
10
10

54 ..

334

233

231

3(i

3!)

31
313

3^1
34
27
29
31
33
33
38

5C i

■"!

(in '

371 '-Mii

303 -f'2

33 31
30 33

33,1
20i
30
33

<i3

06
68
70
73

1 1

.. 1 i

40 46

S3 1 4!)

43
43

1 !

states /or the

\ 185"

inoo

lUS'^

12
12
12
12

i:i

10
10
10
10

INDEX.

Admiralty Ifcad . -
Adiiiiriilty Inlft.. .

Alliiiiii Kivcr

Alciitraz Islainl ..

Aldiii'.s Sl](ial

Allan Island

Aliens lianiv

Aiscva itivcr

Anacapa Island .

Anjiri Islanil

An;ic-li>s I'oint ..
Anita Km k

A|i|ili\ Tree ('ovo

Areata. Tciwn (if

Arcliiiii'laeci dc llaro 204-21.'

Arch Itoi k. CiiaHt

Arcli Kock. San Francisii) liay

A stmia

Astnr Pnint .
AtosCrn-k.

pc.

2:12

2111

(lit

210

2:10

12H

;t:)

0.'>

If 8

2;i.".

101
221
112

IM
l,-i4
l.">;i

4(1

li.

Haaddah Point IH.T

Bainbridjrc Island 2:)(i

liakcrs liay 1.14

I'.ali'li's Pas.saRi' 241

liald Pat.' ■>*

lialil Peak 212

liallast Point 10

Banco Cortis 27

Bank. Constance. Strait .Inan de Knea. 204

Bank, Dallas, oil' Protection Island I»;i

Hank, llein. Strait Jnan (!.■ Knia 20:t

Bank, Miildle, Strait .loan de Fnea 204

liank oir Point ( irenville n:i

liank oil' linpiinali l!iv<r, (Ile<cta) 127

Bank, Partrid;;e. Strait .loan ile I'nea 20:i

Hank, Salmon, Strait .loan di' I'nea 204

Bank, SlnrtH'on. oil' Kraser Kiver 217

Harof llnnilioldt Hay 08,0!)

liar of San Krancisi'd 00, 01

BariMs Islanil 213

Harros de Znnijja 10, 12

Basalt Point 23:t

Battery Point 2:Ui

Bnttlo Kock I H

Bays :

Baker's 1 J'l

Boecher 107

BellinKliani 221

Birch 2ir)

Bodesa f''-'''^

Callani Vi

C'nrmcl ■••'>

Conimoiiccnieiit 240

(Jordovu ■^■'■'

Bays: Pa'iP.

Crescont If*8

Cnseent City 100,107

Unwauiish 2110,2:17

False 13

I'lislnvater 188

(irays IM

I lair .Moon "'3. 'A

Ilnmholdt 08-103

Koos 121-124

Loiiez 200

Mendocino 02. 33

Monterey 4(>-."iO

Mini...! 217

^nliny 233

Xanainio 220

Neeah 184-187

Xew Diiufjeness lOO-l'.ll

NLsco If,')

X<atli 170

Parry 108

Pedd'er 108

Peli.an 109

(Jnieksand 141

J!oyal 200

San Die^'o 0-14

San Francisco .'i.'i-7r>

San Pedro 1;'-I7

San Siineoii 43-45

Seniiahinoo 210, 217

Shoal water llil-ltifl

Sir l-'rainis Drake's 77

Sonlli Kii)

StiawlHiiy 211

Tillaniook 137-1 40

Tomales 84, Kt

Triindail lo:i-IO,->

Tseless 234

Wineloster 120

■\'onn;^'s I''i4

lieeeher liay 107

Heeihey II. ad 100, 107

H. ;;!; l!...k 33

H.-leh.r's ( hannil 1 '>«

H.lli- Ito.k 200. 210

H.U.vne Islan.l 205

Hillinyhain Hay 221, 222

H.'llii\i;hani Cliann.l 210

Hir.-,. Hay 215,210

liir.l K.iek, San Francisco Bay 04

Bir.l It.icks, I!..Hario Strait 209

Hishop K.i.ks 27-'29

Bla.k U.>ck 211

Black M.inntain 53

Blak.' Lsland 238, 239

Hlak.ly Harbor 237, -JIJS

Blnkoly Islan.l aU

:>5i)

INDKX.

I'll};,..

lllii.H- Itmk «•"'

itiiiiit's isiiimi aon

liliinl s !{»( kM !».">

lidclii:!! liny HU-i'ri

li.iilct'a I liiitl K"). H«

•J I -J
17(1

lliilllili'l' Itcif

Itniic I'liiiit

llnickiinicl;;.- liliiir

liril M\l '.ilmiilpia 'Jlf

llrntcliv Lcil;;c

ISii<'ks|iiirt

Hiiilil <if \Va»liiiisl"in Ilailxir

liii.lcl hiUt

liuiiVH ;

(•(iliiiiiliia Itivcr liar I'lH. l.'il

(iiav's llailiiir Ili'i. Hi"

•J(M)

1(11

I!)'J. l!i:i

Si.n I'laiM isci) I!ar .

t'iii|Miiiali JtiN'iT Ita

limrciws Islaiiil

Hiifili I'liinI

(;i

•J 10

('.

CalHiiiiiia. Origin iil' iiainc T, H

Callaiii Hay Ir-T, IfH

(anal iW Han. •JOa-'JOf, IKI

(anil liivir i'''

IJl
, 117

lr--J

i:.4

l!t7

-117

, I IJ

,lt<

181

IH-i

,!W

Kill

Cai"'
Capi'
("ape
Capr
Cai"-
CaiM'
('apt*
Calif
Capi'
Cape
Capi'
Capi'

r.lani'c)

HoniUa . . . .
Itiiin^'lilnn.
Clninli...

DisapiKiinlnnnt II")-

Kalcon Ill,

I'alsi' MfndiMino !I7

Klal 111 y 1«),

I'lalliry. ISank ni-ar 1HI,

I'lirlnnaM. i>v Falsi' Mouilniinii il'

I'nnlwial liiT i;i-',

Capili

i'.i:i

( 'ajir ( ir.jii.iy 1-Jl

Capi' i.iMiknnt i;r., i;io

(':',,!' Mian-s lIMi. 137

Capi' Mrniliirinii O.Vil"

Capi' ( Irlia il I Hi, 1 17

Capi' rc'ipi'tna l'J7. I'JH

Caiii' San Martin II

. . 1 l-J

.. 1112

4.1

'1.-.

i;)i, i;r.
.. im

.. 201

Capi' Si'liaslian

Capi' Sliiiahvairr

Cai'inrl l!ay

Carniil Ivivir

Casiaili' Iliail

Challani I'niiit

Cliat liam Islaml

Clii'lialis Kivir Ifi!), 17(1, 171

Clii't Uii I!i vi'i- 111-112

Cliii k I'ljint l.rJ-l.'-.:)

Clark Islanil 21:1

Cliniati' 111' Wa.sliiMKtiiii Trrritory 2IH

Ci.lumtiia. lirilisti 218

(,'iilnniliia Itivi'r MH-171

(j'liluinliia Itivrr. ilianiri's in rliannrl l.'i.'i-lfiO

Ciiluniliia liivir. Entranii' to 147-1'I8

Ciilviis I'as.iaiii' 2;)n, 240

(.'iili'iis Kiii'k.i 244

C'lninnnrrmrnt Hay 240

Ciii. ' Islanils 221

(jiinst.uiri' Hank 204

Copalks Uivrr 171-172

CuiiniUi' UiviT 118-119

Conlova liav 805-808

I'ng'"-

Ciirli'M liank 27

( iiwii liin Iliail 2(1.'.

Ciiwlilz KiM'r I,V., -^St

Crcsri'iit Hay 188

Cri'.snnl City lliiy HW. 108

Cri'si'int ( 'ily Iti'tf Kilt

Cunrnts:

Ailniirally Hay 2:12

Itidtli' 111!

Canal ilr Ilaro 207

Capi' I'lalliry Ifl

C.iliMnliia Itiver 148, 1 m

( 'iirli's Slinal 28

lli'stnuliim Islanil 170

Ciilili'ii (iaii ti2

(iray's llarlinr Kid

(Jul I' 111' (;iiir;;ia 21. I

lliinili.ilill Hay 100

Klaniatli liivi'i- 105

Kiii.s Hay 122

Niiilli iirCiilnniliia Kivir IIIO

Xnrlli 111' Ni'vairii JJivir !12

Point Anna 01

I'oint Uryi's 78

Point Wil.iiin 1114

INi.ssi's.sinn Siinnil 'S'A

Uai'i' Uiii'kH 107

lliiwirio Strait 208, 210, 21 1, 21-j

San Kranrisro Kntranir ti-J, (i8, (!!l

Santa liarliara ( 'liaiinil 20, 2(i, '27, 1)4

Sliiialwatir Hay IfiH, 104

Strait .Inan ili' I'lira... 18-2, IK)

Ciiylir llarlinr ;i7

Cypri'ss Islaml 811

Dallas Dank ._. 1113

Darcy I.slaiiil .". 20,7

Di'iat iir Islanil 200

Di'i'iptiiin I.slanil 200

Di'i'i'ptiiiii Pass 209

Di'rlinatiiin. 'I'ablr iil' cast nia;nn'tii' 254

Di'i'r I.a;;iiiin 2;14

Di'iiis Kiiik 210

Drstriu'tiiiii I.ilanil 174

Disiiiviry Islaml 201

lliiulili' HlntV 23,1

l)ra;;iin Itiiiks 409

llrayliin llarlinr 21fi

Unman Kurk 180

Unnl/i' Unik 180

Unwamisli Hay 230

Uuxlmry Point ami Hii I' 75

EaKli' Harlior 237, 238

KaHt Point 207

Kitiz Honk 188

Eel Hivi'r 98

EI Ciixo 124

Ehl Islaml 16«

Elk Kivir 1 Ui

Ellici', I'oint 1.53

El Miiro 15, 42

Ehvlia Kivir 188

Entrami' Kink 208

Entrami' to ( 'olnniliia Uivrr 147

Esiininianll llarlmr 198

Kstrri) Amirirano 8(i

EitiTO (le Liiuautoiir 77

1*'.^

21).-.

i.v.,-M:t

IHH

KW, Kit*

KKt

iiW

IIG

-Ml

IHl

Hf, H!)

17(1

tii

I(i»

215

]()0

105

122

Hi!)

<.I2

!)1

lll-l

2;(4

li)7

208,210, an, 21-j

(ii, UH, «!)

... 20, Mi, 27, ;m

Kill, 1(,.|

1H2, 1.-ll

:i7

211

li).1

205

20!)

254

2;m

210

i71

201

23,1

10!)

210

180

23(i

237,238

207

188

121

llili

IKi

153

15,42

188

208

I!I8

INDEX.

257

I'llKi".

Kiirika. Tnwnof 101

KxplaimtiiivninarkH 3

Kalsf Hay 13

IsiIhi- IliiiijjnicHH lla.v I8H

KaUi' Klaiiialh IJIvri- KHI

KalHc .Mi'iKloi'iiiiiCaiu' 07, !)8

FalHi' Tillanicuik Ilrait Ml

FanalliinrH dc liw KiavliH 79-82

J''aiiiitlri(iy C'dvi" 23!)

Fiai'liKH Kiick 123

Ktiii (.'live 240

J'iilalpi iKlaiiil 20!)

I'iii Uock 117

Kinnaiil iHJanil 1!IU

1'i.sliiii); Ii(>ck« 00

l''latt.iy UockH 177

Alcalraz Island 03

CajH' I)iHa|>|M)iiitiii(>Iit M(i

Flirt I'liiiit (io

Fia.11'1- liivcr 219

Xi'W I)iin<;fiU'HH 192

I'oiiit lioiirta 57

I'oiiit ('(HU'('iicioii 22

K(i(it'ii'"l"t, I'oint LoboK 58

FdS-wliislle, South FanallDii 81

Fort I'oint 5!)

Fort KcwH 88

F'ort Vancouver l.'»5

r<ailwiatlior Bluft' 2:13

Fox Islaiiil 241

Frawr liivcr 318

FroHh water Bay 188

(i.

(iarry I'oint 218

General feat'ties :

Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sonnd. an<l Hood'.s

Canal 222

Caiic Orlord to Cape DiHappointment 142, 113

Nortli of ('ai>e Mendocino 118, 110

Santa Barbara Channel 24-27

Sonth of Monterey liay 'i'-i-»

Strait Juan <le Fnea 182-184

Geograpliieal poHitionH. Table of 250-253

GiK Harbor 210

Gibon I51utf 105

Gold Ululf 105

Golden (iate 55, lil

Gordon Kiver 195

Gray's Bay 154

Gay'.s Harbor Kiti

Gneme.s Island 221

Gnlf of Georgia 215

Hahainish Harbor 247

Hale's I'assaKe 213

Half.m(H)n Bay 53, 54

Hantbny Island 211

Haven's A nehoragc 90

Hazel I'oint 247

HecetaBank 127

Hein Bank 203

Henry Island 20«

Hood's Canal 244

Hood's Head 244

Hnmboldt Bay 98

33*

Illinois Itiver Ill

Inlroibietory remarks , :i

Islands:

-Miatiaz (13

Allan 210

.Vnaiapa 33

Ani;el (i5

Hainbriilge 23(1

Barnes 213

Bellevne 205

Blaki 238

lilakely 211

BInnt's 203

Burrow's 210

( 'luitham aoi

Clark's 213

< 'one 221

( 'ypress 21 1

Darciy 205

Diiatnr 209

l)i<-e|)tion 209

I )est ruction 174

Disi'overy 201

Eld Iflfl

I'arallones 79-82

Fidalgo 209

Fisgard 199

Fox 241

dneines 221

Ilautl)i>y 211

Henry 200

James 210

Long 1115

I.opez 208

Los Coronado.s (i

Lunnni 211

McXeil 241

Matia 213

Jlinor 202

Orcas 212

I'atos 207.213

I'ine 105

I'rotcction 193

liiuind 105

San(;ienn'nte 29

Sand 1,52

San Juan 205

San Miguel 37

San Nicolas :t2

Santa Barbara ,38

Santa Barbara Channel 18

Santa < 'atalina 30

Santa Cruz 34

Santa IJosa 3ti

Saturna 207

Sealiock 247

Sidney 200

Sinclair 212

Skip.jack 207

Smith's 202

Stuart 200

Suiia 207

Tatoosb 178

The Sisters 213

Trial 201

Tumbo 207

Vancouver 195

Vashon 2,3!), 240

Veudovi 231

Wnaddnb 181

258

INDEX.

I ill

ImIhiicIm: Vaiic.

WaldK.n W-

WliiillMy lt«, 2a;»-a!4

Viiliii liiii'im ti."!

ViMiiin 810

.7.

.luiiiiK InIuikI am

■lavii n.ml '.'(17

.hiiiii ill' I'ura. StniitH of lfj-2l.">

Ki'Iptlelils ill Strait nl'Jiinii ilo J'"iini 8(tll

KiliMut Ilailpiir 231

Klaiiialli IJivir 105

Kiiltlab I'Dint \^i

KooH Hay 131

KiHiM Ilrail 1-JI. ia-2

I,.

Lnkf MoiintaiiiH, ((Cypress Islaiiil) 211

Lake AVasliiiiytnn 2117

Liailbcttir I'oiiit Kil

I^igbt'lioiisi'H :

Ailiiiiialty Hiail, or Kc<l illuft' 8;t2

Aloatraz iHlaml till

I51mit'«, <)!• Smith's THlniiii 202

Capi' Disaiipiiintnirnt 146

Capi- Cri'Koiy 131

(,'api' -Mi'iiiliKiiKi 90

Vi>\H' SlioahvatiT, or Toko I'oiiit 103

(.'rcsci'iit City Bay 108

Ktliz Hook 1?9

Esqiiiniait Harbor 19!)

Fort Point 59,00

numbolilt Bay 100

New UiinKCiiCKH 191

Point Boiu'ta 50. 57

Point Coucopcion 22

Point Loma 8, 9

Point PinoM 40

Karc Kocks 197, 198

Kp(1 Blutr, or Ailmiraity Hoail 233

Santa Barbara 19

Sniitli's, or Bliuit'.s Island 202

Sontb Farallon 80

Tatoosh Island 179

Toki' Point, or Cape Sboalwator 102

Ligbthonsos authorized by Congress :

Point Ferniin 10

Point Ilnenemc 18

Point I.obos 57

Ligbt-bouses reeomniendcd :

Anaeai)a Island 34

Capo Orford 1 17

Discovery Island 201

Point Adams 143

Point Ano Nnevo i)2

Point Arena 91

Point Santa Cniz 51

San Miguel Island 37

Santa Crnz Island 35

Lime Point 61

Long Island, Shoalwatcr Bay 105

Lopez Bay 809

Lopez Island 208

Los Coronados, Mexico

Los Angeles. £1 piioblo d« 16

Lo» Ksteros 42

Page.

Low Point 1K7

Lnninii Island 811

Lninini Kock 212

Mad Uiver

Magiietie deelinatiiiu
Magnetie deeliimtior

104

854
14

40
.50

88
93

Table of

Line of eipial. 13°

Line of i'i|iial. 14^

Line of ii[nal. 1.5'

Liin' of ei|nal, IIP

Line of iiinal. 17''

Line of eiinal. 18' 109

Line of ei|ii»l, 19' 124

Line of eiinal, 20'' 13(i

Line of eqtial, 81o 171

Magnolia Blntf 21)7

Marrowstone Point 232

Alalia (ironp 213

Mats-mats Harbor 245

MeXiil Islainl 241

Mindoiino Bay 92, 93

Middle Bank, Columbia Kivtr 156, 157, 158, 159, 160

Middle Bank, Strait of .Iinui de Fuca 204

Jliddle Farallon 81

Alih'

Jliiior Island 202

Mis.sion del Carmelo 45

Mi.ssion San Buenaventura 17

Mission San tlinin CapLstrana 14

Mission San Lui.s Key 14

Mission Santa Barbara 19

Monument, Bouiularyof I'nitedStatesandMexico. . 8

Monte de Buehon 42

Alonteriy Bay 40-50

Alonntains:

Alias, Sii ••■■ IS 45

Baelie 51

Baker 21.5, 231

Baldi)ato

Blaek

Blue

Buehon

Cbathani

Coneepeiou, Sierra .

Constitution

Douglas

Erie

Lake

Jlagnire

Montara

194

213

205

210

211

196

Olympus 173

Palermo 70

Point Reyes 78

Rainier 183

Saddle 163

San Pedro 15

Santa Lucia Range 45

Sierras Atlas 45

Sierra (Joneepeion 20

Table

Mountain Ranges :

Sierra Conee]ieion

San Fraiieisco, or San Bruno.

San .Tuan

Santa Cruz

Santa Lucia

Mud Bay

45
217

Mutiny Bay 333

INDEX.

IHT

ail

'i\-i

i-|4

ISO 14

14° 40

ino 5(1

18° ^H

IT'-' |i;i

IS" 1U!I

l»° 194

SO" 13«

11° 171

a;w

yi3

245

241

92, !»3

6, 157, 158, 15!l, ion

204

202

ilJIi'xico.. H

40-50

215,2,31

,^l

104

21.'i

205

210

211

106

173

183

163

148,162

■•....... ,55

.55

217

3J3

Page.

Xaniiiino Hiiv 88"

Namms. Tho 241

Na.sal Kivir l''-''

Xataliat r.aiiiiim •'••'

Nawii--ali Kiv.r 134, 130

XiilH Mill' liivci' lill. i;t5

Nciiiiiiaiii'lii' Uivcr 105

Xcnih liav l"-!

Xclial.iii Itivcr Ml'

K.kasUiv.T K>3,134

XistuKnal) Kivor l^U

Xcw l)iiiif;i'ms« Hay IW, ll'l

Ni'Wiiiarkyt '■■'■*

Nis.1) I!ay I''"'

Xiwiiiallv - '•'

"Nodule I'l'iiit -•■"

Xoiinilav KiM'k '^'-

X.irth iiay ^''"

N'ljtlli ntacli W

Kmili KaniUiiiicH ''^

Xdilli V»U\t "■'-

■Noyoii RiviT •'-

OakCVv.. 233

Oliscivaldiy Itocks l'-'"'

(llympia "'•'

Onas Island -'-

Oipgoli. Coast of 111-144

Oiford Ui'i'f ' "''■ ""

( )ttcr I'niiit '"•'

(lntir Tilcmapli Station 02

(hvcii I'oiiit 1""'

Palux Kivfi- '"■'•>

l>any liay '"?

T'artiidyo Bank -'03

Tatos Islands 207, 213

Tiapods '-'-

V.ddcr Bay ""^

l>clii-au Ray 1""

Polly Point -1*

Picdias Blanins ■!•'

Pillar Point, Hall' inoo; Bay 53

Pillar Point, Strait of ,rinin dr Fupa If*7

Pin.' Islard '"''^^

Piscadin' K^'or -

Points:

Adams ' ^■'

Angi'los ' ^'^

Afio Nuovo •'!

Arena '-'O

Arguollo ''^

Aetor I''''

Baaddah '''•'>

Ballast '"

Basalt -':»

Battery 236

Bolsa •'■''-

Bonota ■'^

Briice -3'J

Brown 100,108,100

Busli 233

Caruiel ■•■•

Cavallos GC

Challam 193

Cliinook 152, 153

Concepcion 22

Conversion ' "

Points: Pngc-

Corral Tiirra W

Cypr.sM «

Diliancc 241

Dialilo Ill

Disiny 207

I>Miiir 17

Dnxlinry *•'

Kasl...' 207

Kdninnd 2;>5

Elliott 2X.

Klli<<

lip.

153

218

172

Hanson 100-171

247

225

2.35

I'lrniin .
I'ort ....
tlarry ...
(iorda...
(innville

lla/.l

Hudson

Ilniniiiie

.Ictlrrson

Koitlali li*-«

I.iiwrenee 213

I.iadlM't tor I'll

I, olios 57

Lonia ^

I,os KsteroH 12

Low 187

Alarrowstone 232

Miranionti'S •'^

MiiK" '7

yew 1-0

Xodiilo 233

Xo I'oint 2:15

Xorth fia

Obscrvat.iry If'S

Otter 19B

195
203

39
218

,53

Partridse'

Pi-d.rnales

Pelly

Pillar, ITalf-raocn Bay

I'illar, Juan de Fiiea 187

Pinos . 15

Pnlly 239

Pnrissii "•

liestoratioti 237

Keyes 78

Kolierts 217

Kockv 1" I

Sal :«•

Salt !'«

Sandy 213

San Jose 62

San I,ni.t 11

San Pedro 51

Santa C'ru!; ■!<', 17

Saueelito 60

Sekou 187

Sheringlmm l'-">

Slip 187

St. GeorRC 108

Sur 15

Tala 244

Terniinatiou 246

Toke 102

Tomale-s 84

Toiiguo 153, 154

VlUage 213

VincentP 1". 17

260

INDKX.

1 ,)

I'olnli: I'«m'.

W.IN ai

Went aifi

Wliiti'liorn m.l

Wilwm I!M, :«.-)

Yomiik'k LVl

I'lirt Aiiuilis IHH

I'dii Disciivcrv l!i:i

IN.lt ( Jiiinlilc a4,'>

Pill t I.im11(.\v 'iU

I'dit MiiclisHii 335

I'cii t ( )i 1 liiii .1 SK

I'ml OrlMV.l Ii:i

Pint Sail .Iiiiiii H>5

I'liil ri)WiiMli('iiil 2*^4

Piiillaiiil. Tiiwii of I'm

PiisNCMsinii Siiiiih! iKM

Prcniiliii 111' San KniiifiHro 00

Pri'sicliip SliiHil 0:1

PriHiiiiiTH' HailMir 'M

I'liili'cliiiii Lslaiiil VX\

Tiiiitii I'alsii 13

Pimrl Siiiinil 341

Pnnta ilr Ari'iia 90

I'niita ilr Ciiriiil 'liiira W

Piiiilailila llnlsa M

Pnnta ilr !.i Saiiia Cniz 40,47

Piinta (Ic Ins Cuvallos 00

Pnnta ( iiirila iU

Qnaitriinastri's Thirliiir 241

Qni'iiilivtlic Hay 1*7

(Jiu'-ni nil 174

linicUsanil Hay 141

JJiiinipir Ptiiiiisnlil 195

Kacf Ilnilis 197

Rain at San FninoiHoo 71, 73, 73

Ruin. ■\Va.-tliintftiiii Tcnitniy 349

Rcil Illnir. HninlMililt Hay ^H

RcililiiiK Ruck 105

Reels :

C'rexeent City. (Ilragoii Rookn) 109

Diixluny . — 75

Orloiil lie, 117

Rocne'.s River 113

AVrsts 307

ReHtiiratiiin Point 337

Riiiron 07

Rio del Pa,jaro 49

Rivei'M;

Alliioii 93

('anel 187

■ (,'nriiiel 45

flielialis 109, 170, 171

(Mictko 111-112

Columbia 14,V171

CopaliH 171-173

Coqnille 1 1 P-1 10

CowlitK l.V), 33;t

Del Pn,jaio 49

Kel 9.1

Klk lie

Elwha ISS

False Klnniath 100

. , I'Viither 75

Fraser 218

Gordon 195

Ulinoin Ill

Rlv(I« Pnye,

Klainatli |o.'>

I.uinnii 313

Mad 1114

XiiHiil ii;.")

XawiijiCali 134.130

Xei liisne 134, i:i">

N'l roiiiani'lie lii.'i

Xelialein 1 in

Xei>aH i:i;i, 134

XeHtnjjdali 134

Xoyon 03

Palnx 10,-)

PiHiadia' .VJ

QnC-nii'itl 177

Rnitne ll-j

Rii.isiaii H»

Saeianiento 74, 75

.SalinaN 48, 49

Salmon 103

San (ire«()iio M, ,".3

StiiKet 3.35

SikliH 118

.Shiviaimka ho

Smitli'M Ill)

rin|i>|inili 134

AValalla 00

Wliilaiiali 104

Willamilte I.m

Yai|uina 138

Roeks :

Anita 04

Anil, nortliei'ii eoa«t 113

Aiili, San I'laneiseo H;iy 04

Maltle 114

'I'KK 33

Ue 300, 310

• ad, RoHario Strait 300

Rird, San Francisco Hay 04

Hislio]) 37-39

Hlack 311

BloHsoni 05

lilnnt'.s 05

California coast. Off 8:), 84

ColvoH 244

DeniH 310

Drayton lOi)

Diincaii IHO

Duntze 180

Kiitrance 208

Farallon, lictwcen Roiith and iniddlo 79

FearlcsH 133

Fin 117

Fisliin^ 00

Flattery 177

Lnmnii 313

Mile 59

Noonday 83

North Farallon. Off 81,82

Observatory 100

I'eaiiods 313

Piedras Blanca.s 43

Point Arena. Off 91

Race 107

Redding 105

Sail 18B

San Luis Oliiapo. Off 40, 41

San lliKncl. Near 37

Seal T 58

Shag 04

Tichpnor'o 114

ki*^->

\or,

■■ir.t

Kir.

i:ii, i:i(i

i:m, I.e.

i(i,"i

i;ii, 134

i:m

!hj

Ki".

ii-j

H!)

7(, 7.-.

IH, (It

!!»;(

M,:<i

A')5

118

!)0

•■-. 1B4

■ ■ - • 1.1.5

• ■ • . liiH

(H
■•• I la

04
•-. 114

■ aoit.aio
■ • - aoo

«4

... iT-ao

• • S),84
■• 244

■ • aio

■ 100
•- 180

. 180

■ 308

• ISA

DO
177

■ aia

.".(I

81, 82

212

4;)

1!I7

10,1

186

40, 41

.17

114

INDEX. 2B1

R.
Knrkn : I'llUi'.

Tillnniook Iloiid Off 142

I nit ami

V 1 H a 1 8-aaa

Wliili', (PIpiIi'iih niHiicuH) 4;i

Williiiinwiii 210

Z.K. 20.')

RoKiic Hivir 112

Rnunc liivciKi'cf 1111

K(isiiii(. Strait 208-21.'.

Kdiiiid ImIuikI. lli.l

Koyal Ilay 200

RuMHian UiviT 80

Sailing ilircitioim for Snn Friiiii-iMco Bay (i7-(lii

SalinaH Itivcr 4f , 40

Saliiiiin Hank 204

Halt r<iinl .\mliiir»Kf! 00

Han Itinnnvc 111 lira MisHii.n 17

Han < 'Icincnli'. iMlanil of 20

Kan Dic't;.. Hay 0-1 1

Kan I'ranciMcii liar <iO, lil

San Kianciscii Hay and ApproachrH "..V*".

.San KraiH'iw ci. StaliHlirn 71-74

Kan ( Jnuiiric) Hi vrr .'.2, .".H

Kan .1 nan ( 'a|iiNlran(> II

Han .Iiian Island 2(l.">

San I.iiis ()lti»)iii '0

San I.niH Uiv ' •

San Mitrnrl Island ^17

Sail MiUH' ' UiiikH near ;i7

San Nil linlaH Inland M

San Pedro Hay l'>-17

Kan Siincc.n Hay 4H-4.">

Hand Island '•■|2

Kandy I'lant 2IH

Santa Harbara Cliannid. Gcncial tf marks on islands

in ai-DO

Kanta liarl.ara Clianncl. Remarks on 18

Hania Harliara Harl.nr 18. 10, 20

Haul a Harliara. l.sland of :I2

Santa f 'atalina Island :I0

Santa Cruz, Harbor .''0

Santa C'rnz Island ^H

Santa Cruz Point ■">. •'7

Santa Rosa Island '!•'

Hares Iload '-•"

Kat.dict Ilrad '•J-''-«

Hatnrna Lslanrt 207

Si agpt River ~'''

Scarlioroiicb Hill l"'-

Keabock Island 247

Koal Rooks •'''^

Keaaons in California 'l-'iS

Seattle. The town of 2H7

Sebastian, Cape "■-

Sckoii Point '''"

Semialinioo liay 216, 217

SliaK Roek *'■♦

Shelter Cove »•''. ^*

Shcrinuliani Point ""'

Shoal Biglit 209

Shoals :

Alliens 214

BaiTOs do Zuniga 10, 12

Cortes 27

in Str.iit Juan do Fnca 203, 204

offCnlil'ornia Coast 83,84

off Sau I rancisco Entrance 83, 84

Presidio "'• "^^

PaL'e.

Hhoalwatir Hay 101-1(1(1

Hhoalwaler Hay, Entruiico to IHD-KW

.HItlncy Island 90(1

Sierra .\ltiis i!i

.Kiirni I oniepriiin 90

SiiiradeSama I-ilcla 45

SiUbslilvir 118

Siniiiiiiii at Santa Harbara 21

Siiirlair Island 919

Sir I'laiiiis llnike's Iliiy 77

Sisl,:s. The 913

Skipjack Islands 207

Slaviaiiska River «»

S!:i> PninI 187

Sniilli's Island 203

SiiiilirH River 110

.SiM.ke Inlet lOfl

South Hay •««

South I'arallon. Light and I'oK-whisflo 70

Statisties. San I'raneiseo 71-74

Stearn s HliilV 170

Sleilaiooin 241

Strait of .Iiiaii de Kuea 182

Sliawbeny Hay 211

Striped Pi ak 187, 188

Smart Island 200

Sliii'geon Hank 217

Snbinarine Valley in Miinteny Hay 40

Snbniarine Valley olV Point Ilneneine 18

Siiiialiniiip 21)7

Siii|nainisli Harbor 240

Table Hlilft' M

Table Mountain 70

Tala Point 244

Tatoiwh Lsland 178

Teekaht 240

Telegraph Hill 03

Temiieratiiie. California 73

Termination Point 240

Tiehenor'sRoek 114

Tides at Astoria l.'.1, 1,'>3

Tiile.s al liiidega Hay 88

Tides at Cape Disappointment 148

Tides at Columbia River l.'Jl

Tides at Coiiuille River 119

Tides at Ciesient City Ray 107

Tides at Ciiylers 38

Tides at Humboldt Hay 100

TidesatKooH Hay 123

Tides at Monterey Ra.v 48

Tides at Neeali Hay IS.!, 186

Tides at N'ew Dnngeness Ii.l2

Tides at ( Mynipia 243

Tidesat Port Orforil 115

Tides at Port To\nisend 2a.'>-230

Tides at Restoration Point 2;i8

Tides al Sau Diego ]i.ay 11

Tides at San I'raneiseo Har 60

Tides at San I'raneiseo Hay 70, 71

Tides at San I.uis ( lliispo Ray 41

Tides at Sau Jlignel, Cuyler Harbor 38

Tides at San I'edro Hay 16

Tide.s at Santa (,'ruz Harbor 51

Tidesat Seniiahmoo Ray 210,217

Tidesat South Farallon 80

Tides at Steilacoom 243

Tides at Tillamook Bay 139

Tillamook Biiv y~ 137,1.33

262

INDEX.

Page.

Tiliamook Head Ul, 142

TimborCovT 90

TomnlcK Hay and Point i4, g5

Tongup Point 153,154

Trial iHlands 201

Tiini<la(l Hay anil Urad 103-104

Tumbo Island :a>i

UniiKinai. Kiver lv.4

Unit Rook 206

Useless Bay 234

Vanrouver Tsnind lOf)

Vashon Island 230,240

Vendovi Lslumi 221

Victoria Harbor 200

A'illagp Point 213

Viti Rocks 213,333

Waaddah Island 184

Walallab River 90

Waldron Island 207

Pago.

^^ashiugton Harbor 193

\> a> hington Sound 204, 205

■Waiiliington Ten-itory. Coast and Shore of 145-248

■\Va tnior.fcli Head 308

AVest Point 230

West Reef 207

Wliidbey Island 182, 233-224

■Whilap-b River 164

AVliite Roeks, (Picdras Illaneas) 43

ArVillanictte River 153

■Williamson Roeks 21u

Winchester Kay 126

AVinds on Pacilic Coast 69, 70

Wreck 64

Yaquina River 138- 132

Terba Buena Island 65

Toung's Bay 1 54

Young Island 210

Young's Point 153

Zero Hock x05

ll'l V ^

Page.

193

204,205

■""•oof 145-2-18

208

236

207

1«2, 223-224

164

155

:io

120

69, TO

128-X32

154

210

153

-Ma