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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la m*thode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 y JTisszsa UNITED STT^TES CO-AST SXJB,VEY. BENJAMIN I'EIKCE, Supciiuteudeut. PACIFIC COAST. COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA, OREGON, AND WASHINGTON TEREITOKY. m GEORQE DAVIDSON, ASSISTANT COAST S l' II V K Y . 1869. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1869. Y\LO 'Jon ?p INTriODrCTORY. IJ.'fon. tl... iu-quisition of Califon.ia by tl... T^nit,.,l Sfnfos, rmnpan.tivrly liuio Avns known of Uw l.,vdro;.n.,,l,y and ^-vonraphy of its cast, rxrrpt l,v th,- f.nv i.av,i,atorstn./.v^f«rr.v are exp.-essed in -oofrraphical (nautical) miles J>c>.'nj>,ions of ln,ht-housc.,foo-heUs, Ouoys, ct.., arc- tVon. the p,.blished ..otices ot the t.ight-house IJoard. Uiig COAST OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. (W flic wost'Tii const, iit incjiiil;!!' tlistiiiin's, (hen' jippciirs to 1m> ii liiiiti*' of siihiiiiii'inc iiioinitiiJiis, wliosc siiinniits, i isllij;' o( ciisioinillv iiltoxc llic \v;ilci', foiiii islands, and, ni-ariny; ilii- snrlat'i' at otlr-r points, I'oini dan;;rioiis and oxtiMisive banks. One of these last is a ltanl< very similar to tlie ("oifes I>ank,*ainl, jjossihly, an pxtonsion <>r it to llie southeastward of tlie hitter, and ih'si^iiiated tiie •• liaiieo Cortes" on tin' Freiieh chart Xo. lilltT. L'pon the latest I'.iitish Adniiiaily charts it is not noted. The shoalest part of the hank has ten lathonis npon it in three spots situated lietween latitudes :\\o X',' and .IP l.'!', and lon;.'itudes IIS^ II' and 1 liSO r»2', hcinji nearly southeast hy south quartei' south, tit'ty miles from the IJishop Jiock. IJut as nioi'c detailed examinations may diseitver such dan;;ers as were found ujton the orij;inal Cortes IJan'., it will he well tor na\ i.natois to avoid pass- iuf"' over the shoalest localities. It lies in the direct route of the steamships lunninii' between San I'rancisco and ^lexical! ptuts and I'anama, .ind, as laid down, is very extensive, the area within the twenty fathom line bein;; thi'ce thousand scjuare miles, an IJanco Cortes" also fell a uiound swell for a short time, but found no bottom, as above stated. The western ed;;e of the bank may drop otf nunc ((uickly than is indicated by the chart, and the vessel may have been set oil" shore by a current fnun the Santa iiarbara <'hannel. We subse- quently had no observations for i>osition for some da.\s. This bnidv, witii the islands northward, an*l the islands an Montiilvo, the tninsliilor of the Aininlis. It was tiist ininlnl in l.'ilO, with <- 1 l.lL' west. h. in. K. Or, in tinu' 7 48 l,'-L74. From the boundary the coast is low and Hat, running n(»rth by west for about seven miles, thence curving gradually westward until it i.s nearly east and west at the entrance of San Diego IJay. The interior of the country is marked by high numntains. roiM" LOMA. This is th(! southern part of the western boundarj- of San Diego Bay, ami the termination of a remarkable narrow sjuu' of coarse, (irumbling sandstone, which rises .south of Puerto FaLso, or False I?ay, and west of the town of San Diego, to the height (»f three hundred feet, and after stretching south for abcmt five and a half niih'S, gradually increasing in height to four hundred and tifty-seven feet, terminates very abruptly. It is covered with coar.se grass, cacti, wild .sage, aiul low bushes. I'Ol.NT LOMA LIUIIT-IIOITSK. This lu'imary .sea-coast light is less than half a mile from the southern eml of the point, and situated ujton its highest i»art, four hundred and twenty-two feet ■;» I >«« .11 \ I \ ^ „|...,. I,,., I,. Vi..w -^iLmiii; l,,ili,.l I',. ml ..1 |i I.ir ...•i.v,.., \\„- 1 1 Si , .hi, I M.si,.,, \m'S% I'I I. ..III. I |.|.,ini|M S l: |,v .S I '.l|i|,,;|.s 1.1. II,,. i'>.l..iuin COAST PILOT OV CALirOUNIA. 9 alxAO liifih Avator. TIic buildiiij; consists of a stone (l\\«'Ilins of one and a half stories, witli a 1 w tower of i»lastere, l.> i) fi ilk ates til •nti ii and sunset to sunri clear weatlier sliould l»e visible — rroni a lieij;iit of 10 feet above thc^ sea, at a distance of L'!> miles. From a heijjht of 1M( feet above the, sea, at a distance of '..~». Ma^fuetic variation, 1-"^ 20 east, in April l.S,")!, with a yearly increase of T. From the li;>ht-house station the islands of Santa Catalina, seventy miles dis- tant, and San Clemente, lifty-eight miles distant, are distinctly visible in clear weather. Tlie Enjilish Admiralty Chart No. 'J Mil, with correcti(His to ^March, 1S(J."), has the I'oint Loma li;j;ht erroneously i)laced on False Point, about seven miles north- ward of its true position at the entrance to False Pay. SAX DIEGO HAY. Next to that of San Francisco, no harbor on the Pacific coast of the United States aitproximates in excellence the bay of San Diego, it is readily distin- }j;uished, easily ai»i>roaclied, and a depth of twenty-two feet can be carried over the bar, which is three (piarters of a mile east of the southern extremity of Point Loma, and between it and the tail of the Zuniga shoal. Tlie bar is about six hun- dred and tifty yards across from the outer to the inner tive-fathom lines. Vessels cominji' from the northwest make the ridge of Point Loma as a long, flat-topjied islaiul, when about twenty-live miles distant. This appearance is occa- sioned by till' bay to the southwest, l)y the low land to the northeast, and by the Puerto Falso at the north. A thick lield of kelp lies along the western shore of Point Loma, the inner edge being about one mile olV shore, and having a iueadth of half a mile. The outer edge marks the line where the depth of water suddenly changes from tw«'iity to tell fathoms. The tield commences otV the bar at tiie entrance to False Pay, and stretches so.ithward two and three-quarters miles south of Point Loma. ^larim-rs a]iproachiiig tht^ south end of Loma, along the outer t osition and extent of the shoal, and at the lowest tides ])art of it is bare. It has Ix'cn said that a rock, having but live or six feet of water upon it, lies in the chan- nel; its ]»osition being marked by a patch of kelp, which is, however, torn away in heavy weather. The j)il(tt-boat Fanny reporteh water, and lA. iitn. for low water. The ditf.'rences, when the moon's declination is greatest, are 'Jli. 4m. and l/(. '.Win. re.spectively. The averaj;'e diH'erence in the height of these two tides is 1.5 feet for the high waters and 2.1 feet for the low waters. When the moon's decli- nation is greatest, those dilferenc<'s are 2.2 feet and .'J.O feet, respecti\ely. The average ditVerence of the higher high and lower low waters of the same day is ."»..j feet, and when the moon's declination is greatest, (».;» feet. The higher high tide in the twenty-four hours occurs about !>//. 1(>»». after the moon's upjier transit, (south- ing,) when the moon's declination is north, and about .'5/). H\m. before when south. The lower of the low water.s occurs about seven and a (piarter hours after the higher high tide. The greatest ob.served difference between two low waters of one day Ava.s 4.2 feet, and the greatest difference between the higher high and lower low waters of one day, 8.8 feet. The two tides of the same day are generidly unequal in proportion to the moon's declination. The time and height can be obtained approximately from the following table: Moon's upper iiiciidinu i)a.ssji;;o. MuoiiH lowiT luci'iilinii paHWigf. Moon's ilcoUnation. nigh ^^ •ator. Low water. High water. Low water. luti'ival. Uiifilit. liitcival. lt('i!;lit. Iiilnval. Uuislit. Interval. Heigllt. Groatest north //. .V. « .->;t ■J •>! in ai iWt. r>. ti J.!) ;i.7 ir. M. ti> ifi 1,-) 4(1 Feet. —0.3 0.7 2.1 If. jr. 10 -j;) Feet. H.7 4.1) n. 31. 14 M l.'i 40 Hi l(i Feet. •J. 1 0.7 —0.3 The interval is to be adth'd to the time of the moon's meridian pas.sagetogive the time of high or low water. The time of the moon's upper meridian pas.sago is given in the almanac, and the time of its h)wer meridian passage is the middle between two successive upper passages. The heights are given in feet and tenths, and show the rise above the level of the average of the lowest low waters ; to which level the soundings on the chart are given. Spring Tides, — At the full and change of the moon the high waters wil' be 0.7 foot higher than the above, and the low waters 0.7 foot lower. 12 COAST riLOT or California. iS>«/) Tides. — At tlio inor,.i's first iuid last quarters tlio liij-li waters will bt' 0.7 foot lower, and the low waters will not fall as low by 0,7 foot. The existence of a bar at the entrance of this port was discovered by Van- couver in 170.'5, and in cnticisin}> a plan of the harbor, piildished by Dalryniple in ITSL', he remarks: "This plan, in point of correctness, is justly entitled to nmch ])raise, but was yet ca])able, as far as came under my observation, of the followiu}^ little imi)rovements : the scale rei)resenting tive nautical miles should only sub- tend three miles and a half; the shoals of Barros de Zooni^^a, though well ])laeed, instead of being two distinct shoals ought to have beeu one entire shoal, stretch- ing something further to the northwest and southeast than is therein represented ; and the soundings between IJarros de Zooniga and the land of Ponta de la Loma, (which is omitted,) are in no part, from the south extremity of the former direo J5ay, Avliicli is rc] (resented as slioalinf;' at tliat point. The jiU'iit diawbaeiv in San I)ie;;o I'.a.v is tlie want of fresli water, whieli has to l»e bronj-ht from the river. An etfort was made in l.s.")l to obtain a snpply at La riaya by sinkin},' an artesian well, bnt atter boiinj; six linncbed and thirty-tivo feet the attempt was aban(h>ned. A simihir attem|>t, witii liiie residts, was made at >»'ew Town, botli eontirminfi' the i)reviously exjiressed opinion of >;•('( do j;ists. The same amount of money would liave brouj^Iit it in earl lien pipes from the river. During" the lonj>' (by season tlie river loses itself in the sand, ami the inhab- itants arc eomiM'lled to dijn' in its bed to obtain their supplies. Fresh provisions are icadily ))roeured W're. When fishery assunu's a praetieal shaju' on this coast the harbor of San Dio^ro ■will b«'eome a i)ositi(tn of im])()rtan('e. Already several small companies are en- ga^icd in the whalin<>' business. The waters in this vicinity abound with the "Cal- iforina (ireys," which are very troublesome to deal with, unless the bomb-lance is used in killiu"' them. Communication with San Francisco and the northern or windward jMuts is inaintaim>d every week by steamer, and by rcfjular lines of sailin;-- vessels. San J)iej>o l>ay was discovered by Juan Kodrij^ucz Cabrillo, a I'ortn;;nese in the service of Spain, in Septcmlter 1.142; called Port San Mi<;uel, ami jdac-ed by him in latitude ;>P lid' north, showin}^' the iiii|»erfection of tiie instruments and the modes of observing"' in those days, lie fouud jjireat numliers of Indians here, who received him hospitably, but with caution. It received its present name fiom Sebastian Vizcaino, who surveyed it in Novembei' KiOL'. In bis tinu' there existed a forest of tall, straij^ht oak and other trees borderinj;' the nortliwest side of the bay. This for<'st was said to be three Iea{;ues in lcn;ith and half a Iea;:iie in breadth, and that to the northwest of it was a j;'ood harbor, iu)w known as Puerto Falso. La Perouse (in 1787) ftives a coi)y of an Enjulish niaj) of San l)ie<;(», of 17S2, (T)alryni])le's,) on which no nanu' is assijiiied to tlie Ziinijia Shoal, but the shoal inside Pallast Poin<^ and under the eastern shore is called " Shoal of Zunij;a." Mallast Point is called " Point (Juisarros," and Point Loma, " Hill Point." At the north end of the ridf;'e of Point Loma is an extensive shoal bay called Puerto Falso, or False P>ay. Tin; bar at its entrance lies north by west half Avest, distant five and a half miles from the .southern extrennty of Point Loma ; and liavin}>' but three feet of water, it can be crossed oidy in the smoothest Aveather. The entrance Just inside the line of heavy bieakers is about a (pnirter of a mile in width, but rapidly contracts to less than an ei<;hth. The northern ]»oint of this bay is alumt two miles in len};th, very narrow, and covered with low sand dinu's. To the north and west of this the shore is compact and unbroken, except by 1 If 14 COAST PILOT OF CAUKOnXlA. the valloys of San Luis Key and San Juan Capiatrano. TluMvators ott' this Htrotch of tlu! coast Avt're t'allo 17 north. Longitude 117 1'!) west. SAN JUAxV CAinSTRANO is now a place of no impoitance, with an nn])rotected anchorage, roclcy bottom, and bad landing. The bay has a high clitt-like head to the iu)rthwest but termi- nates in low sandy beaches to the southward. It is situated in a tine valley, and its site is marked on the chart of the Coast Survey. The approximate geogra])hical position of the anchorage as determined by the United States Coast Survey is : O ' Latitude 33 27 north. Longitude 117 43 west. In latitude 33° 30i' north, about four miles northwestward along the coast from the w(>stern point of Capistrano anclun-age, the line of equal mnffuetk decli- nation of 13"2 east cuts the shore, and i)asses ctver the great transverse break of the island of Santa ('atalina. This line annually moves southward a mile and a half. strotc'h of the eat for ho east I'H 11(1 ISt th DiiiKh'd t three 11(1 the ipijear- ty and IKl •SO lie (1- ut I'O. rari^ly of the of ot at nth. est. ottoni, termi- Coast by the >rth. est. coast (lecli- 'ak of and SI lie lie fU« re iff as ttt ?.) be in X). r v'Sfr ^ '■ Jf-^ar ,:?;•■:•*»- !'> \mi. .'Ill I1-..I M..11, I \i-vv,.r r..i„ r,.,lr,, I', |.,.,,i,,r, I,,...,-,,,., W \ W, C ,,,..- ■, „„|, '^"■w. I'l. DiiniM l.r.iriiio |.:;isl lC,,iH|.,i>s '.HH|i,i>s! Ill uii|r~, 1 H tb< of Sti i Fill »0| .Til mi uu I »•■,*• "-j». vi> I.S an nil I Si U) tJ«-!C^ nn th La .:iM l'(',>iii|i,issl 1(1 mill': COAST IMIA)T OF C'AMI'OUNIA. 15 SAN I'KDKO HAY. Tills 1)ii,v is wj'li ]trot('('(«'(l In every diieetlnii, exc^ept ii^iiiiist the winter ;;iiIeH from tlie suntlu'iist ronntl to tlie sunthwest. Dniinj;- the spiinj;, sinnnier, and iiiitinnn it is an exeeMent roadstead. Kroni Point I-'einiin,* whieli is t lie southeast jtoint of hlj,'h land west of the, hay, the line of blutf niiis exaetly north and .sontli for about tw(» miles, hein;j hold, and averajjinj; sixty feet in hei^iht. Vessels eominjn' from the westward throuj>h the Santa Harbara Channel nuike San Pedro Hill, (l.tUMt feet hij;h,) forminj;- the west side of the bay, as an island l»rojeeted a^ininst the mountains to the southward and eastward. Approachin;; Point \ in<'ent«', which is the southwest point of the liill, vessi-ls ean keep it ^^\os^^ aboard, ther«' beinj;' from lifty to «'iyhty fathoms within a mile (»f the shore; round Point lS."»L' we saw the clipper briji Fremont ride out a very heavy southeast j;ale (»f three days' duration. The waters of tiie lajicton, inside of the low sandy beach, and a mile or more northward of El iNIoro, lind their ])rincipal outlet between that island and the blutf ])oint half a mile west of it. the entrance is very narrow and crooked, and has two buoys, about two hinidred yards apart, to rk it. In l.S."i!> it is stated | that the " bar at the entrance to the creek remains about the same, (as it did in l.S."i2.) At mean h»w water, throwiufj- out the halt tides, only two feet of water can be carried over it." The town of AVilmin<;ton is situated three miles inside the bar, and has a good wharf and larji'e storehouses to receive freijiht. There are two steam tujis and live lighters for receivinji' and deliverinj'' freij;lit to vessels in Sail Tedro ]>ay. The ji'cographical position of the Coast Survey astronomical station on the blutt' at San Pedro laiidiiiji' is : Latitude 'S.i 4.S !!).(! north. Longitude 118 1(5 0;j.(» west. /(. III. K. Or, in time 7 53 04.2. *Nimu'(l by Vaiictmvt'r in IT'J'^i, at'ti-i- t'oriiiiu dc lii Siicn, the I'atlicr, infsidciit of flir MissioiH of Alta ('aliforiiia. " A low ixiiut foiiiiiiii; tlic cast point nf a small liay or eov(! in the sontlifast jiart of .San I'imIi-o I!ay" he named Point l.asiicn after tlie same jierson. t For I'l Morni. On the Coast Survey reeonnaissanee eliurt of lS'>ii it is railed Dead Man's Wuiul. tKejiort of the Sniterinteudeiit of the Coast Survey for If^oH, i)a}{e 100. H COAST PILOT OF CAMKOKNIA. Mii^jiH'tic variiitiuii, l.'P ;!(l' ciisf, in NovciiiImt is.l.'i, witli ii yciirl.v iiicrciisc <»(' I'. All ii|»i»ro|iiiiilioii liiis hft'ii iiiii
  • lor :i llijlil lioitsr mi I'niiit Fniiiiii, iiiiil tlm iicrj'ssar.v tttpujiriipliicnl siiiNry roiiiplctcil. Tlic site n>niiiiiii(>ii(lfm., an. avera;;e dilVerenee between the eorreeted estaitlishments of the a.m. and p.m. tides of the samjf feet and ;>.I feet, r«'Speetivel\. The averafie dilVerenee of the lii;;liei' hii^li and lower low waters of the same day is ."».(» feet, and when the moon's deelination is jireatest (1.(5 t'eet. The Iiiyhor Iii^-h tiih- in the twenty-four hours occurs about !•//. Ktw*. after the moon's u|»per transit (southinj.;) when tlu^ moon's deelination is north, and about ■>/(. Him. belbrt^ when south. The lower of the low wat«'rs occurs about si'ven hours alter the hi;;Iier liijih tide. The j^reatest observed dilVerenee between the two low waters of out' day was ;$.!) feet, and the {greatest diflerenc^e between the hij;her hij^h and lower low waters of one day S.-l feet. To lind the times and hei;;Iits of hij;li ami low waters, compute them for San Diejio, the times and heights beiuj*' sensibly the same for both places. The town of Los Anj{eles is twenty-two miles north by the road, from San Pedro, and is the centre of an extensive grazin^i', a}>ricultural, an12, and was called tho liay of Smoke, (Fumos.) When Vancouver was seeking- for San Pedro l>ay he f<»und su(!h deep water off Point Vincentc that he thought this could lutt be near the idace; but after {i'ettin};' to the south and east he had a fall view of the anchorage. He did not, however, enter it. In ISdl a prelinnnary examination was made of the lagoon, situated east quarter south, about tifteen or sixteen miles from San Pedro, and which receives the waters of the Santa Anna lliver. It was found to be some five miles h)ng, and separated from the ocean by a narrow strip of low sand beach, over which washes the heavy swell from the northwest and southeast stornjs. The lagoon has a breadth of only a few hundred yards, and a mouth about fifty yards in width, V COAST PILOT OK CALIl'OI!XIA. 17 V f witli a niinwv biM", njM)!! wliirli it is siipponrd t<'ii <»r twclv*' tU'\ of wiitcr inifrlit he CoimhI lit lii^'li tide. On this Itar tlinc is a vers lioavv Im-ak at all stairs oC tlu' tide, rt'iidniii;; it (laii;;fi(Mis to noss ill boats of aii.v kiiiil. There is said to be no safe aiichonij,'!' off tlu' eiit ranee, and the low stnii;;lit Iteaeh, with a treiitl nearly east and west, atVords no protiction whatever. The San I'edro wiiiil ;-a|» lit'H iM'tweeii San I\'on, orridin;- at anchor near it. The attempts to pass tlie bar were, in all cases, attemh-d wiih risk, and the entrance niay, for general jmrposes be regarded as iminacticable. In summer the Santa .Viina is said to frequently dry iiji beft»re reaching' the hignon. Anaheim Laiidiii;; is situated at the oi»enin;i' into the northwest part of a Ion;;- 1a;;oon, and is used l>y steamers to hind :iid receive freight for Anaheiiii, which lies tw«'Ive miles northeast therefrom. This landing is bet ween ten and eleven miles east three-tinarters north from El Moro or lumt the mountains si»ring directly fnun the water. From Poiitt Miaju to uenaventiira the coast is low, flat, and sandy, being the opening of the valley of Santa Clara., through Avhich Hows the Santa Clara Kiver. This stream is nearly dry during the summer, and terminates in lagoons and marshes, but in the rainy season a volume of water * Nam ' l)y ViiiKMHivcr iu November 1793, after Vinct'iitc Sta. Miuiii, one of the IViiir.sof tlio Mission ot" .iii'iiiivfiituru. tNiiiin'il l>y \'iiiieouver, in November, 1703, after the Father Fraucisco Dume, one of the friars of the Mission of IJiienaveutuni. 3* 18 COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA. Is bronplit Ti having sufflcieiit forco to Itroak tliroiigli the narrow sand beach and flow into the ocean. Tlie eonti};'m'ati()n of the sliore, and its relation to Ana- cai)a and Santa Crnz Ishinds, are sliown npon the ])reliniinary chart of the eastern entrance to the Santa Barbara Channel, jmblished bj he Coast Snrvey in 1857. The eautern entrance lo the i^anta Barbara Channel lies between the eastern end of Anaeapa Island and Point lluenenie, vvhich is about half-way between ^Ingii and Bnenaventiua. From Auacai)a, Point Iluenerae bears northeast by north one- third north, distant nine and a (piarter miles. The best landing is directly on the point. Landing in the bight to the eastward and leeward is impracticable. Din^ctly off this point im found a remarkable ex Muple of a submarine valley, commencing with a depth of ten fathoms, four hundred yards from the beach, increasing to fifty fathoms in five-eighths of a mile, and to one hundred and thirteen in less than two miles. Its general direction is south, with a width of a mile, and bounded on either side by depths of twelve and fifteen fathoms. The erection of a primary sea-coast light at this point was recommended by the Superintendent of the Coast Survey, and has been .luthorized by Congress. The approximate geogi-aphical position of the site is : Latitude U OS north. liongitude 110 OU west. The computed magnetic variation, August, 1857, was 13° 38', with a present yearly increase of 1'. Vancouver says this was called Point Con\ersion on old Spanish maps; he placed it in latitude 34° (MC, and retained the name. There is excellent holding ground ofi:' Buenaventura in ten fathoms, but the landing is not good. The three-fathom line lies about a quarter of a mile ott" shore. The Mission of Biicnarcntnra, situated at the foot of the dividing ridge of the valleys of San Buenaventurii and Santa Clara, about half a mile from the shore, was founded March 31. 1782. Its approximate geographical position is : Latitude 34 15 north. Longitude 11!) 15 west. Fifteen miles westward of Buenaventura, on the coast, there ifs ,i :''«'h deposit of sulphur, surface specimens of which have yielded sixtj' per cent. Around the locality are found ashes and scoria. The ground is hot, and the gas emitted is almost suffocating. On the head waters of the Santa Clara Itiver and the Arroyo Simi, are p«'troleum si)rings. SANTA BARBARA. From San Buenaventura to Santa Barbax'a the distance is twenty-three miles, and the bearing near'y west by north. Santa Barbara is an oi)en roadstead for all, except northerly winds, ublished by the Coast Survey in 1S55. No dangers have been discovered in the kelp oft' this beach. With the h^iist swell the surf on the beach is a bad one, no'c; falling square on, but cutting it at a sharj) angle. In Avinter, vessels must anchor outside of the kcOp, as the gales detach it and drive it shoreward in such vast (nuintities that, coming across a vessel's hawse, it helps to bring home her anchors. LIGIIT-IIOISE AT SANTA BARDAKA. Tlie structure consists of a plastered dwelling of one and a half stories, with a low gray tower, also plastered, rising through the roof. The illuminating appa- ratus is of the fourth order of the system of Fresnel, and shows a fued white Unlit, illuminating the vseaward half of the horizon. It if; situated at an elevation of one hundred and eighty feet above the sea, two nules southwestwardly from the landing on the beach, and one hundred an•'» west. h. III. M. Or, in time 7 58 48. 3 Magnetic variation, l.'Jo.lO' east in Novemljer 18."»3; yearly iiun-ease 1'. "NiuiumI liy ViiiifouvM' in Novi'iiihi^r 179;j, tiftw tho comiiiuiiilaut of Hm pii-Kidio of Stii. llavliivni, St'futr l>ou K^lipc (loycoclicii. It is ciilli'tl Point Oastillo on tin; Coast .Survey tliiiit of \K)'.\, fron\ a muiill Mexican battery formerly existing ui>ou it. 20 COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA. Tho si'coiKliir.y iistroiioinical stntioii of tlie Coast Survpy was on tlio slijiht fjriissy rise Just In IVoiii the Ixnu'h, and sixty yards from the west side of tlie road leadiny to the town. Its position is: Latitude ;U 2 4 li4. 7 north. j.ongitude 1 lit 40 IS.O west. /(. m. s. Or, in time 7 58 41.2. Santa llarhara is a town of considerable size, lyiiiff in the middle of an aft'ri- eultural tract of limiti'd breadth runninf;' east and west, at tlie southern base of the Sierra Concepcion. The trade Avith San Francisco is not extensive; but this beinj;- one of the greatest stock-raisinj:!: districts on the coast, vast droves of cattle pass thronyh and are sent to San Francisco and the muiing districts. nie jNIission, founded Decend)er 4, 178(5, is one of the larj^cst and best estab- lishments of the kind in California, and in the gardens attached to it the grape and olive have been cultivated with success. A large bitumen pit, about eight miles west of Santa Ihubara, empties directly into the ocean, and the bitumen, lloating on the water, \. orks itijahist the summer (u- northwest winds even beyond Point Concepcion. Very fre(|uently, iu calm weather, a great extent of the anirface of the chaniud becomes iridescent from the thin film of bitunuMi s])read (»ver it. The rocks along the shore, evi'u to the westward of Point Concepcion, are covered with it, and when encamped at El Coxo, in 1S.")(), we gathered it to start our tires. The Indians have always used it to pay the seams of their canoes. Sulphur, in large beds and of sui)erior quality, exists along the seaboard, ami nmnifests itself iu all tlie warm springs. AVood and pntvisions in abundance can be easily obtained here. AYater is lilentifiil, but not so readily jirocurcd. A very short distance back from the coast line is a range of rugged hills, over two thousand feet high, forming part of the Sierra Concepcion, (sometimes called the Sierra Sau Inez,) whose sides are sparsely covered with timber, and through some (»r whose gulliiis and gorges pass small streams abounding in the finest trout. From others issue warm springs having a temperature of about 117° Fahrenheit, and highly imi)regnated with sulphuretted hydrogen. The height of the springs by barometric measurement is about one thoiisaiid two hundred feet. They lie behind the village of Montccito, eastward of Santa Barbara. The coast trail to San Francisco passes along the shore for a distance of fifteen or twenty miles to tlie Gaviota^ Pass; thence inland to the Santa Inez Valley, which runs nearly jiaralh'l with the coast. Kegular communication by steamers and sailing vessels is maintained with San Francisco and other jxirts. In l.-flLJ Cabrillo visited this place and found great nundicrs of Indians, who came off to his ships iu larye canoes, aud were quite hospitable. Close to the COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA. 21 slioro lie foiiiul an Iiuliuii town with '■^ casus ymmlcHP To it he yiive tlio iiaiiu' I'lioblo (If los CaiHKis. The const liiic/rdm tiautn liarhara lUjht to Point Conceprlon lii/lif nnis west by south, distance thirt.v-si'voii miles. The iii>;j;('(l iiills westward of the (ia\ iota Pass come elosi' to tlie shore, Ibreiii^' the tiaveler to h'ave the beacii lor their sea slope, tlie trail ]>assiii}>' over steep ridj^cs and across shai p valleys. The sandstone terraces of the immediate vicinity are al)out ci;4hty feet hi;;h at tlie Gaviota Pass and dip at an anj^le of forty dej^rees into the sea, tbrminj;- a bulwark of natural masonry against further eneroachments. This elevated terrace continues from Santa I'.arbara to Point Concepcion. In this distance it is cut by nunu'rous arroyos running down from the mountains. There is «)nly one pass between the LMver P.aenaventura and Point Concepcion, and that is the (iaviota, Avhich at its summit at Santa Cruz is seven hundred feet above the ocean. TILE sniooM. The only instance of the .simoom on this coast, mentioned either in its history or traditions, was that occurriuj;' at Santa IJarbara, on Friday, the 17th of .lune, l.Sa!*. The temperature during the morning was between 7.")0 and StP, and grailu- ally and regularly increased until about one o'clock p. m., when a blast of hot air from the northwest swept suddeidy over the town and struck the inhabitants with terror. It was (puckly followed by others. At two o'clock the thermonu'ter exi)oscd to the air rose to VS.i'^, and continued at or near that point for nearly three hours, whilst the bin wing wind raised dense clouds of inipalpable «lust. No human b«'ing could withstand the heat. All betook themselves tt> tlicir dwellings and carefully closed every door and window. The thick udohc walls wiudd have recpiired days to have become warnu'd, and were consen boat, came back with liis arms badly blistered. At the entrance of the valley of El Coxo, near Point ConceiK'ion, whilst engaged in making astronomical observations, during July, August, and Septem- ber, 18.10, we frecpu'utly experienced at night hot blasts coming down from the Sierra Concepcion, after two or three days of clear, calm, hot weather; the north winds apparently bringing the heated air from the valleys behind the sierra. The records show many cases where stars suddenly became so very ditliised, large, and unsteady by these short hot blasts as to be untit for observation. lieyoml the annoyance and delay occasioned by this circumstance no observations were made to determine the temperature of the heated air. It had, of course, not near so elevated a temperature us that sweeping over Santa Barbara, and was hhu ?f»'i ,"■■'- 90 COAST riLOT OF CALIFOIINIA. POINT CONCEPCION. This cliaracteristic and romaikabU' lioadlaiul, about two hundred and twenty feet in heiyht, lies at tlie western entrance to tlie Santa Barbara channel. Once seen, it will never be forgotten. When made from the northward, or from the east- ward, it rises as an island; but upon approach, is found to be a high i»romontory, stretching boldly into the ocean, and teiminating abruptly. The land behind it sinks comparatively low, and at first gradually, but soon rapidly rises to the mountains, -which attain an elevation of about two thousand live hundred feet. ]>et ween three and four hundred yards south of the face of the capo is a large rock nearly awash, upon which some of the California steamers have struck in very foggy w(!ather. A tojjogi'aithical sketch of the point accompanies the Super- intendent's report on the Coast Survey for 18ul. LIGIIT-nOUSE AT POINT CONCEPCION. The buildings are erected on the extremity of the cape and upon the highest part, which is two hundred and twenty feet above the sea, and covered with grass and bushes like the land behind. As seen from the southward by day it will be jH'ojected against the Sierra de la C(mcepcion, and a|>pear about one-third of their height from the water. Tiie part of the range behind the lighthouse seems very level along its summit, and the house is seen about one-third of the length of the level range from the western i)art of it. The structure consists of a brick dwell- ing, plastered, of one and a half stories, with a low tower, also of brick, and plastered white, rising from the center. The light was first exhibited February 1, lS."i(J, ami shows from sunset to sunrise. It is a primary sea-coast light, ccmsisting of an illuminating apparatus of the (irst order of the system of Fresnel, and exhibits a revolriitfi irliite U(jlif, nJioicukj a Jianh d'ery h;- S. Ivl.v Iv ''■»m\;i^^^^ I 'oiii|i l.t.H,,, ' M.. 11,1, ,11 I'- niih'H d thirty-six pounds, is The striking maehin- COAST PILOT OF CATJFOIJNIA. 23 ory oodiiiiosa IViiinc biiildiiij;', wliitownslicd, on a Irvrl \vi(li tlio ^iioniid, jiiid Iiii\ inj>' the fniiit open to icci'ivo the bell, wliicli is soiiiidcd diiriii;; tof;yy or otlior thick wejitlior, iii^lit or day, every tliirteeii and a half seconds. Tlie lollowinfj bearings and distances are taken from the Coast Survey eliart of this h»«ality, i»ultlished in l.S,"».'{. The rock oil' the west end of the San ]N[iguel Ishiud, south half east, distant twenty tv.o miles. The east end of San Miyuel Island, southeast by south quarter south, distant twenty-six miles. The southwest end of Santa Cruz Island, southeast by east half east, distant forty miles. Next to the islands of the Santa r>arbara Channel, Point Conce])cion is the most prominent and interestinj;' feature Itetween San riancisco and the i)eniii- sula of Lower Calif(nnia. It has very justly aiul apjtropriately been termed the "Cape Horn" and the "Ilatteras" of the Pacilie, on account of the heavy north- Avesters that are here met with on coming- throujih the channel, with a si"*'iit changeofclinuite and meteorological conditions; the transition beiiift' remarkably sudden and well defined. An investi};ation of the temperature of the ocean, northwest and east of the cape, would be hijihly instructive, as some characteris- tics would naturally be expected from the abrupt clianf^e in the direction ot the mountains and coast line. AVe have frequently seen vessels eominy from the east- Avardwith all sail set, and light airs from the north, in a very little time reduced to short canvas upon api)roaching the cape, and vessels from the northwest coming before a spanking breeze lose it within a few miles after ])assing the cape into the channel. These last would be tbrtunate in reaching Santa Ilarbara in a day. "NVe have known a vessel to be three days Avorking from San IluenaA'cntura to Santa Ilarbara, whilst a ten-knot breeze was bhtwing west of Point Conce])cion. The general set of the otf-coast ciurent is in the direction of the coast line toAvards the southeast. The larger mass of the great Japan Warm Stream that reaches the American coast about latitude 50°, sAveei)s southward along the shores Avith an average breadth of three or four hundred miles, and a rate of about six- teen miles per day. On ]March 24, 1815, the brig Forester, of London, in latitude 32° 4.V, and longitude 12CP 57', only three hundred and fifty miles southwest by Avest from Point Concepcion, rescued three dying men (the captain and two sail- ors) on a .Japanese junk that had diifted for scA'cntv-en months across the Pacific. She left the port of Osaca, Avas almost imnuMliately surprised by a storm in which she lost her rudder and a nmst, and in tiiis condition had remained until succored. She lost thirty-two men. Durjng some summer seasons the fog is almost constant, but more particularly among the islands. For the space of six Aveeks, Avith clear days and nights at the cape, the islands ha\'e been invisible. Rising, lioweA'er, to an elevation of a thou- sand or fifteen hundred feet, the observer plainly sees the summits of the islands OA^er the sea of fog Avhich envelops them. 24 COAST PILOT OF CALIFOUXrA. Wlicii tlic fof-s lu'i^vail, they ffonoriill.v roll in from seuwsu-cl at .smi.sct, iiiiil soim'tiiiH's clciir awiiy about ten (»'clocl< next inoriiiii^f. Point Conccpcion was discovt'ivd by C'ahrilht in l."»li,», and calh-d Cape (Jalcra. ir»' jdaccd it in latitude .'!(;A° north. It was attorward.s named Punta of lii(> icjinhlie of Mexieo, compiled in tlie liiited States, and dateil 1SI7, we lintl no less than twelve laryc islands, the jMtsitions and extent of wliicli are most j;i(ttes(inel.v eri'o- iie(Mis. The island of San Miguel, the most western of the Santa Marhaia fironp, is placed seventy niiles sontheast of I'oint ("onee])cion, instead of twenty-threo miles southeast by south half south. The same ;;eneral remarks will a|)ply to the coast line as thereon icpresented. Thr«'e larjic rivers are made to How iutt»thesea between Santa Harltara and San Diej-o Uay, whi<'li is increased in si/.e to twenty miles by lilteen, and runninj'- noitli, whilst two others rival it in extent. The j;co- jiraphical posititms ;;iven previous to the Ch he previously states havinj;' seen San ClenuMite and Santa (,'atalina,) nor did we observe it while we ren\ained at anchor, exceptinj;' on one veiy <',lear evening, when it was seen from the presidio (of San I)ie<;-o) at a time when I was unprovided with a compass or any other means of iiscertuininy its directiiui, and ■was therefore only able to }>uess at its situation. "It appeared to be low and tiat; is but seldom seen from the Presidio of San Die^o, and was undiscovered until seen by Martinez, a few years before, in one of his excinsiiuis alonj;- the coast." As Vancouver has plotted this island on the line from Point Louni to Sail Clemente, and as it is {generally so placed, we have no hesitation in assuming that, duriufj,' peculiar and extraordin:.ry conditions of tlu' refracti(»n of the atnutspliere, the i.sland of San Clemente, invisible under ordinary conditions of refraction, has been mistaken for another and intermediate island. Having' visited and examiiu'd San Clenu'iite, Santa Catalina, San Nicolas, Santa Cruz, and San Mijiuel, we found them olferinj;' no inducenu'Uts for aj^ricul- ture, and very few, indeetl, for raising' stock. In a few words, we may (;Iiaracterizo their disadvantages as want of water, and want of fuel, with high, bold, and rug- ged sides, which in many places become precipitous. The surface of San 3Iiguel 4* 2() COAST IMI>OT OK CALIFOlfXIA. iiiitl S;iiitii I'osn is ndliiif,', ;iim1 covered witli ;;i;ish jiimI Imslies; tlie nunintiiins of tSiiiitii Ciitiiliriii iire iiliiiosf iiiiieeessible, iiiitl Siiii Nieliolits iiiid Siiii Cleiiieiite me eoiiipnsed of eoiirse siiiidstoiie, preHeiitiiiK' a dry, siiiid.v, ami steiile aspect. On tlie eliart of I lie coast from San l)ie;;o to San I'lancisco, |nililislied by tlio T'niteil States Coast Survey, a reniarkaltle and l»»'autil'id exiiiltition of tlie paiallel- ism lietween tlie islands and the ailjaceiit coast is pieseiitco (».V jioith, the trend of the coast and hills southward, throu^^li the loiif'cr axis of I'oint Loma, will pass through Los Coronados, althouyh the ishuids lie northwest with respect to each other. Navigators, in making the Santa Barbara Channel from the northwest, readily estimate their approach in thick foggy weather by the pecnliar odor of the bitu- men, which, issuing- from a large jiit on the shore about eight miles west of Santa liarbara and floating upon the water, works (((/(dust the summer winds far beyond Point Coneepcion. This set to the w«'stward is found to exist for about four miles off shore, and runs at a maximum velocity of a mile and a half per hour. Further out the current is variable, but even there its greatest velocity is attained when running to the westward. Ftoiii '.'oint Coneepcion it strikes to the southward ami westward, being doubtless infhieueed by a current from the upper coast. Vancouver is the first 'xiio calls attention to the bitumen, in the following lan- guage, vol. II, page 41',): "The surface of the sea, which was perfectly smooth an«l tran(pul, was covered with a thick slimy substance, which, when separated or disturbed by any little agitation, became very lununons, whilst the light breeze that came principally from the shore brought with it a strong snu'U of tar, or of some such resinous substance. The next morning the sea had the appearance of dissolved tar floating upon its surface, which covered the ocean in all directions within the limits of our view, and indicated that in the neighborhood it was not subject to much agitation." The following remarks of Sir Edward Behrher, in October 18;39, are taken from the Voyage of the Sulphur, vol T, ))age .'J20: "Oft" this part of the coast to the westward [of Santa liarbaraj we experienced a very extraordinary sensation. COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA. 27 ns if til*' sliip was oil flvo, iiinl iilfcr a very close iiiV('sti;;iitioii iittiiliiitcd it to a scent rniiii tlif sliorr. it Iteiii;;' iiioif seiisiiiie on deik tiiiin ImIow; iin«l liir lantl lii'«'«'/<> coiitirniiii}; tills, it ocnirn-ose, Within the limits (»f the tift\- fathom curve the {•ciieral trend is (tarallel with the islands of Santa Catalina, San Cleiiu'iite, and San Nicolas, and it stretches about seventeen mih-s, from latitude 32° 24' ncu-th, lon^itiule llSo rm' west, to latitude 32° 32' north, lonj-itude 11!P 17A' west, but curves sli^ihtly to the southwest. It has an avera,n(' and neaily uniform width of three aiul a half miles. The luiture of the bottom is hard, <'oin- posed of white sand, broken slu'Ils, uid line coral at the southeast jioit ion; and sand, with broken shells, at the northw<'st. The shoalest and most dan;;erous l)art is that known as the lUslKtp Koek, iyin;;: live miles from the southeast tail of the hank, and haviii};' but two and a half fathoms of water n])on it. Around this dan<>'er the (h'pth increases };Tadually> and in an extent of two and a half miles in the general direction of the bank reaches but tifteen ■athoms. The geograithical position of these rocks is, aitjuoximately : o / Latitude 32 2.")=| north. Longitude Ill) 0,"» west. *]''' only half a mih' squai'e within the lift' en-fathom curve. Its yeogra])hieal position is, aiiproximately: Latitude IV2 L*fi] north. Lonjiitulc 1 1!» 10.] west. From the northwest end of San Nicolas, the spot last mentioned bears south- east by south, distant fifty-four nules; and from tlu» southeast eiul of San Cleni- ente it bears southwest (piarler west, distant fifty miles. From the Jjisliop Jvock it bears wes. ([uarter north, distant five miles. To the northwestward of this latter sho;;! s]»ot the depth is nearly unifcrm at f(»rty-nine fathoms for seven and a half miles, and between it and the JJishop liock the depth is uuiform at alxmt forty-three fathoms. U])on this bank the cuirent is variable, frccpu'Utly setting- aon the rocks. In passing over the 1)ank at i.ight we have been sensible of our jtroxiniity t(» it by the incn'ased swell. In tl'.«' detailed examination of 1S,")0, it was four d that the general set of the current was to the southward and eastward, and the greatest velocity a mile and a half per hour; but no statement; is nnide ccaiccrning the prevailing wind. The existence of this bank had been reported several times, and the following ]tositious assigned to it: Swift's Island, hititiide oo° US'; longitude ll'jo or.', as seen by Captain Aulick, United States nav^s. INu'k, latitude .">20 30'; longitude 111)0 00'; ]io autlunity. Bank, latitude IV2° 2S'; longitude \lH° 4L"; no ..uthority. It lies in the direct route m)w followed by the Panama and San Francisco steanislii|>s. and was discovered by Cai>taiii Cro])]ier, of the steamship Cortes in ^larch l.srh). His ]tosition was tU'termiued by bearings u|)on San Nicolas and San Clemente, and was very close, l)eing within a mile of the latest and best assigned ])lace. lie says Miat the water around it was in violent commotion, and thrown ji)» suddenly in cohnnns at regular intervals of four or live minutes. At first he thought he saw breaki'rs; and occasionally the 'vater broke as on a reef, but he became coiditicnt that the disturbance Avas owing to submarine volcan:*- agency. The spccinu'iis the botttmi negative this id<'a. He found his dei»th o»' water redi'.ced Iron' forty-tW(» fathoms to nim>, which convinces us that he was on the slioal spot, about the middle of the bank, ann was subsequently called to a more extended examination of tho vicinity by the cliitjti'r shi]» S. S. JJishoj), (afterwards (iray Kafjh',) of Philadelphia, strikin<,Mi|Min the rock, since called by her nanu-. (bS,V»); and, under inilavoiabUM'ir. cumstances, two ])oints of rock were sui»i)osed to exist, to which ajiproxiniate posi- tions were assijiued. In 18r»(J the bank was souiuh-d out to the extent of one hun- dred and thirty sijuare miles; and from a consideration of the hijihly favorable circumstances under which this last sui'vey was made, confidence is expressed that the ])oint of lock above nientioiu'd is the only one e\istin,i;'; but as it is vi'ry diifi- cidt to find oints of rock below the siul'ace in a sea-way, we shall not be snrjirised if others be eventually foinid. At all events, the lu'udent naviji'a- tor will nive this bunk a f;oo ridges lie ])arallel to the coast. A chart of the Cortes Shoal was published by the Coast Survey in 185G. ISLAND OP 8A>: c'i,i::meme. This, like all tb" ishmds of the Savta P.arbara channel, is high and bold, the southern end being the higher, and the land gradually falling to the nor*hwarhie sketch and view of it accoiupauies the annual Coast Survey import for 1850. The soundings around the island show a dejtth of from thirty-six to one hun- dred and thirty fathoius close in shore, except otf the northwest point, from which a reef juakes (mt about a mile. Tlie Coast Survey secondary astronomical station was at the northwest ancluu'age, on the f>rassy lise, Just uiside of the hijuh-water line, and bore south 17° east froiu the north point of the rock islet before mentioned. Its {>'eograph- ieul position is: Latitude (approximate) ."5;$ 02 north. Longitude 118 ;51 Avest. Or, in time 7 54 10.0 Neither wood nor water can be had here. Tlu^ whole island appears unfit for raising stock, on account of the want of water. Very few trees are found, and the aspect is sterile. In 1802 the following report Avas nmde upon the condition of the island: "The entire sur(iic< of the island is broken by gulches, without a vestige of wood or a drojt of running water. No inhabit:n it, nor were any animals found exce])t about one hundred and titty wild sheejt. Tlu» highest i)oint of the island is estiumted at about one thousand five hundred feet." This island was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by him San Salva- dor, after one of his two vessels. The present innne was given by Vizcaino in 1002. It is distinctly visible in clear weather from I'oint Lonm light. ISLAND OP SANTA CATALINA. This island is .seventeen and a half miles long, with an average breadth of four miles to the southern ]>art, and two mih's to the northern, wliile the shore-line anu>unts to ai»out forty-two miles. It rises to a heiglit of about three thousand feet, and is remarkable for the great transverse break or (h'pression, five miles from the n(u-thern end, running i)artly through it, and forming an anchorage or cove at each side. The land coniu'cting tlies(> is very low, say not over thirty feet; but tlu' hills rise up on each side two or three tliousand tcet, and, when sighted from th(> north or south, the Aviiole appears like two very liigh islands. The general trend of the island is west by north three-quarters north. Tiie • ^^w COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKXIA. 31 frof from liiddcu (laii<;i'rs. To find it, run aloiij;- tlic southwest side of the island and luako the di'iuossioii ; then stand in for the opcninji-, ki'cpinjj; a littU' U'ft of niid-channcl until a third of a niile inside of the heads. From thence keep in niid- ehannel until abreast of the lonj^', low jxtint on the rii^ht, and anchor in five fatlioins, soft bottom. There is a depth of three fathoms inside of the low i)oint, with hard bottom, but not "ooui enoufi'h for a vessel to swinj--. If the winetween the two points forming the anchorage the distance is half ji mile, and the depth one-third of a mile. The soiuidings around the island siio>v bold water, from nineteen to scventy- flve fathoms, close in shore, with no outlying rocks except oiV the north cove. The shores are rocky, and on the southern side fearfully abrupt, but on the northern shore there are several indentations, Avhere boats may land at almost any season. Deep and ]>r( "ipitous gulches are formed by the ridges of rock running diagomilly a of the island and the great break there is a spring of good water, and at the southeast point good Avater has been obtained by sinking wells to a depth of fifty fee*^ or more, but in the intermediate places water found at the same depth is brackish. There is a large pond on the low land between the anchorages, but the water is very brackish. Scridi-oak is obtained for fire-wood, and a growth of thorny bushes covers the whole island, rendering traveling very difiicult. The ishmd Avas partially stocked with cattle and sheep, and at one time vast nundters of Avild goats abounded, but they have helped to supi)ly the California market Avith fresh meat. In IS(>,'J sonu' old lead nuiu's Avere rediscoAen'd ; the ««'e is described as argeidiferous galena. From the north eml of the near large rock at the m»rtli cove the Coast Survey secondary astronomical station, Avhich was on the edge of the bank, bore south 2~)0 west. Its geographical i>osition is: Latitude ;VA 2(1 .". t.7 n(nth. Longitude 1 IS liS 15 west. /(. m. K. Or, in time 7 o.J o.j.O This island was discovered byCjibrillo in 1542, ami called by him La Victoria, after one of his two vessels. It reeeixcd its present mime fiom Vizcanio in Decern- n T 82 COAST riLOT OF CALIFOKNIA. bcr 1002, wlion it was thickly iiilial>iti'tl by a iK'ojtlc loportcd to bo very iiisciiions, Itaiticiiliiily ill piUrriiiji' :iii»l <'(mr«'aliiiji'; soiiiccximiplcs of \vlii«"li iiccoiiiplisliiiu'iitK they j^avc the Spaniards, I'lidrc dc la Ascciicioii, who acccaiipaiiicd this expedi- tion, jiives very paiticiilar deseiiptions ol'a kind ol' temple t»» tlie sun, witii images and idols, foniid near the t\vt» eoves. This island is distinctly visible in clear weather Iroin Point Loiiia li;;lit. Ilydroyraphic sketches of the anehoniges have been publislied Ity tiie Coast Siu'vey. ISLA^'D OF SANTA BAnilATIA. This is one of the only two small islands of the Santa IJarbara firoiip. It lies on the line between the north end of San Clemente and the east «'nd of Santa Crnz, and almost exactly halfway between them. From the north end of Santa Catalina it bciirs west by south, distant twenty-ttiree miles. The i'xtent of the island would not exceed two r.iiles of shoreline; its eleva- tion at the hi};hest part is aiioiit live iiuiidred feet, and the top has an area of about thirty acres* covered with soil, but no water is found, and not a vestijic of Avood. The shores are rocky iiiul ahriipt, i)resentiiij;' on the northeast and south sides i)erpendicular clill's exjMtsed to the full force of the ocean swell. Landing is at all times dillicult and daiij^crous. The wat<'r around it is dee]), and there are no outlyiii,ii" rocks. It is said to lie much mor(> eiiV'.'loi»ed in fojis than tiie iieijihborinji' islands. Its ai>j»roxiniate j;eoj;rapliical position is: Latitude ;{;', .W) lutrtli. Loui-itude 11!» Oli west. ISLAKD or SAN NICOLAS. Of the channel islands this is the mosr distant from the coast, as well as the driest and most sterile. It is about six hundred feet lii;;Ii, abrupt, and, like Sail Clemente, cctmparatively llat-topited, but failinji- to the soiitiierii eml. The sides are bold and preci]»itoiis, and composed of coarse saiulstone. Jts <;eiieral directum is west-mu'tlnvest ; its len;jth is ei;;ht miles, with an averaj;-e and nearly uniform width of three and a half miles, whilst the extent of shoreline is about twenty-two miles. The north point of the island bears southeast by east from I'oiiit Fermin, dis- tant sixty-seven miles; the line passinj;' one mile south of the island of Santa IJar- bara. At the north end of San JTicolas heavy breakers make out two miles and a half, and the soiindint>s towards the I5e,->j;- liock show irreinular and rocky bottom, r.reakers also extend from the southern ])oint to the distance of a mile and three- quarters, according- to Kellet. This is dtuibtless the ease in heavy weather. The .soundings around the island show di'pths varying from ten to forty-eight fathoms. COAST riLOT OF CALIFOUXIA. 33 iniiit;'«'S t. If Coast Off tlio southoiist i)oint, wliicli is low and sandy, vossols may anchor in ten laHioiiis, liaid l)ottoni, with a ciincnt iiiiiniii.i;' steadily to tlic southward, which I'lakcs the land'if"' had, as the surf cuts the beach at an acute anj^le. The ('oast Survey secon(!i>:y astronomical station was on the sandy itoint.just reCeired to, and its j;('oj;rai>hical jtosition (U'tciiuined as t'i>llows: Latitude .'5:5 14 1 1.O norlli. Lonjiitude 11!) L».") (to west. Or, in time 7 oT 40.0 . It lies of Santa of Santa its eleva- II area of iestij;-e of lud south it is deci>, d in fojis ) north. : west. I'll as the like San The si(k's with an extent of Minin, dis- 5anta IJar- iles and a ;y bottom, and three- ler. t'orty-oifiht This island was not seen by Vancouver in 17!KJ. It was examined by the early fur traders (»(' the Tnited States, and on account of the ji'reat luiniber of soa-otters found there was known by the name of Sea-Otter island, and its south point placed in latitude .'5;5o 17', lonji'itude llO^ 10'. The Ik'ijii Rock is situated on the i)rolonnation of the lon.uer axis of the island of San Nicolas, bearing- northwest by west half west from its nearest (northw«'st) l)oint, an. The i>osition of the rock relative to the island of San Nicolas is shown on tho general chart of reconuoissauce published by the Coast Survey. ISLAND OF AXAfAPA. This is, in fact, a cnriously formed yroup of three islands, extondiuj; in a nearly east-northeast direction, their entire Icnj^th beinji' five miles. The west end of Anacapa is a peak nine hniulred and thirty feet in heij;ht, with a base of over two miles by tluee-quarters of u mile. This is sepaiated from the middle island by a jjap ten feet wide, through which boats can pass. The mingitiuh\s 110° 10' and 119° 24' Avcst. Upon it the site for a lifilif-house hnnhven recommended by the Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey. The ishind is composed of coarse, darli gray sandstone, very rotten and ('rnmbliiiposite the town of Santa Barbara, at a distance of twenty miles. Its general direction is east and west, with a length of twenty-one miles and an average width of four miles, Avhile the extent of its shore-line is not less than fifty-three miles. Ou the ncu'therii side of the island, and near the middle, the shore makes a moderately dee^) curve, forming a roadstead called Prisoners Harbor, at the opening of a valley, where plenty of wood and water can be obtained. Anchor- age may be had a qaarter of a mile ott" the middle of the beach in fifteen fathoms, sandy bottom; but there is no protection from the hefivy swell setting in with a COAST PILOT OF CALIFOIINL.V. iiortliwcstor. It must, liowevor, iilVord cxcclU'iit rcf'iij,'*^ in soutlicaMf wcatlicr. A liydro^iJiipliic skotcli (tf tlic harbor was pu1)lislu-*l l»y tlio Coast Siirvt-y in Two miles ofl' tlio south side of the oastoni oiul of the ishiii«l aiiclioraj;'*' is laid down oil tlu' recent ("oast Siiivey charts in nine fathoms, over a bottom of broken shells. In this position the east end of the island bears nortlu'ast three- ([narters east, distant tiiree and three-quarters miles, and the west end of Ana- capa bears north half cast, distant five and a half miles; another anchoraj;e is laid down at the southeast part of the island in a small cove open to the south. It is nearly two miles noithwestward of a lar^e outlyinj;' rock, and from it tlie east end (»f iSanta Rosa bears southwest three-quarters south, distant six miles. Tile souiidinjfs around tlie islaiul give deep water close to the shore; but tliere are rocks showin<:f (piite i)liiinly one mile from the southwest point. A chart showing the hymi)osed of coarse, (hirk gray sandstone, crumbling and rotten, liko that of Anacapa. The CU)ast Sur\ ey secondary astronomical station was on tlie eastern side of the frc^sli water. Its geograi)hical position is: Latitude.'. .34 01 (K».8 north. Longitude 11!» 40 00 west. /(. til. s. Or, in time 7 58 40.0 From the Santa Barbara light we have the following bearings and distances: East jMiint of Santa Cruz Island southeast two-thirds south, distance twenty- four miles. Prisoners Harbor south by east half east, distance twenty-two miles. West point of Santa Cruz Island south by west half west, distance twenty- one miles. A site for a lif/ht-house at the eastern end of the island has been reported upon and recommended by the SuiK'rintendent of the Coast Survey to the Light- house Board. This island was called .luan Itodriguez by Ferrelo, who (!ommanded the ships of Cabrillo after his death, which took place either in Prisoneis llailuu", or in Cuyler's Harbor (island of San Miguel.) Tlie greater probability rests with the former, as there they could olitain water, and oak w»)od for repairs, &e., while. 86 COAST riLOT OF CALIFOIJNIA. iicitlicr is to be \v.u\ in the lust-mentioned liaibor, except water, duiinfr the ruiny season. The ffronj) eoiniiiisinff Santa Cruz, Santa I'osa, and San Aliguel, was dis- covered and called San Lucas by Cabrillo in 1542. ISLAM) OF HAXTA ROfiA. This is the niiiMle island of the frroup oft" the coast between Santa P.aibarii and I'oint ConceiM-ion. Its H'l'iieial shape is that <»>' a paralleloyrain, with the direction of the lonpT axis almost exactly east and west, and fifteen miles iu len;>tli; and the shorter north and south, {iiving it a width of ten miles. The extent of shore-line is about forty-two miles. On the northwest side of the island, and midway between the north and west ])oints, a reef extends out for a distaiu'e of a mile and a (piarter. Anchorage is laid down on the recent Coast Survey charts about the niiddh' of the Five-mile IMji'lit on the northeast side of tlie island. A (h'otli of eleven fathoms is };iven when the west end of Santa (.'ruz bears northeast by north threc-quarti-rs north, distant eiylit miles. Another anchorage is laid down on the scmtheast face of the island in a small cove open to the east-simtheast, with a low sand point, forming; the south i)oint of the cove. It is between four and five miles southwest by west from the east point of the island. There is a good passage between Santa Cruz and Santa Eosa, with a width of live miles, and one between it and San Miguel of four miles. Uoth passages are frccpu'iitly used by the California and Panama steamships. The soundings around the island do not show as deep water as around the others. On the northwest and northeast sides from fifteen to twenty fathoms are found two miles from shore, but on the southeast and southwest sides the water is much deeper. The outline of the island is bold. It is not so high as Santa Cruz, but attains an elevation of one thousaml one huiulred and seventy -two feet. The hills are rolling, and covered with coarse grass and bushes. Xo harbors exist arouiul its shores, which are steep and broken. The relative position of Santa Kosa in the gi'oup of the Santa Uarbara islamls is shown on the reconnoissance chart of the Coast Survey. The approximate geographical position of the south i)oint of the island is : c " Latitude S3 'hi north. Longitude 120 04 west. For the western point we have: Latitude 33 .Wi north. Longitude 120 12^ west. On some early Spanish charts the western two of the Santa Urabara Lslaiuls are called San Miguel and Santa llosa, (naming the western first,) and upon COAST riLOT OF CALirOlINIA. 37 others Santa 'Hjirbara niul San Miguel. Tlio prosont names and order are tliosi; adopted 1».\ ViUM'dUver in IT'.K?. ISLAND OF SAN MKUKL. This is the most ^vestern of tlie Santa Uarltara (Miannel Islands, ha\ in;-' its lon;j:er axis l.vinjj- I'ast lialC north, and seven and one-half niih's in leii;;th, witii an avera^ic breadtli of two and a half miles. The extent of shore line is twent.v-one miles. Jts western extremity is hold and narrow, gradually inereasin;;' in hri-ailth until it attains three and a half miles. As seen from the southwestward this end of the island ap]>ears to he several iumdred feet in hei};lit, and e()mi»osed of sand dunes, tliereiu ditVerin*;- from all the other islands. The eastern face is nearly straijiht for two miles; the southern face is nearly strai;iht alon;;- its whole leufitli, with hif^h, abrupt shores; and from thirty to thirty-seven fathoms water are found elos*' in shore. On the northeast side of the island is the small bay ealled C'uyler Harbor, olf which lies a rock cu' islet more than a fourth of a luile Ionf>-, and several hundred feet hi;;h. From this islet to the deepest part of the harbor the arse grass and bushes. Ther" is no water here in summer, but during the winter water »hains down the gully at the beach in the middle anil southern part of the liarl)or. A hydrograi)hic sketch of Cuyler Ilarbor was published by the Coast Survey in isr)i>. The western point of the island bears sonth by east quarter oast, distant twenty-live miles from Point Coucepcion, and southeast by s(Mitli half south, dis- tant thirty-five miles from J'oint Argu«'llo. From the west point of San Miguel Island the Bishop Eock bears southeast q\iarter east, distant one hundred and fifteen ndles. A sea-coast light has been reported upon lor this point of the island, and the subject referred to the Lighthouse Board. Sheej) and some stock have been placed upon San Afiguel, but the success of the experiment has been doubtful — certaiidy unremunerative. The Coast Survey seeomhiry astrononncid station is on the southwest 38 COAST PTIOT OF C'AT.IKOIfNIxV. piirt of Ciiylcr riiirbor, abont forty fct'l ; p. o,, (lie sidi'-liill. Its froognipliical ]M>sitioii is: LatitiKlc, (ai)itro.\iinat(') ;?4 0;{ iiorlli. J.onnitinlc 120 20 27 west. /(. III. H. Or, ill time S (H L'l.S. Titles. — The corrcctod ostablisliiiiciit, or incaii interval between the time of the moon's transit and the time of hi},'h wat»'r, is i»/(. liam. The mean rise and fall of tides is ."{.7 feet; of si>rin^' tides, "i.l feet; and of neap tides, 2.8 feet. The mean duration of the Hood is (iA. \:\iii., and of tlie ebb (i/i. r»m. Tlie averaj;*' dilfer- ence between the correeted establishment of the a. in. and i>. m. tides of the same day is Ih. 40m. for hij;'!! water, and l/«. ()»». for low water. The dilferenees, when the moon's declination is greatest, are 2/i. ')Ai)i. and 2/t. 12hi., respectively. The averajie dilference in heijiht of these two tides is 1.(5 feet for the hifjh waters, and 2,.") feet for the low waters. AVhen the moon's d(>clination is uel was discovered by Cabrillo ;!i l.">-t2, and Cuyler Harbor is sup- posed by some to be the bay in which he wintered. He died January 5, I'Ali, havin}>' directed Bartolome Ferrelo, his pilot, to assume the command of the expe- dition and continue the exploration as far uortli as possible. Ferrelo afterwards named the island in whose harbor his commander had wintered, Juan Itodriy;uez. It is sometimes called San IJeriiardo. Cuyler IlarlKu- Avas named by the United States Coast Survey in 1852, after Lieutenant Cuyler, United States navy. • Two rocks, showing; themselves well above Avater, lie northwest by wc^st from the western extrenuty of San Miguel, the larj^er being distant live miles. It l)ears south half east, distant twenty-two miles from I'oint Concepcion, and south- southeast, distant thirty miles from Point Arguello. Off the inner aiul snudler rock a reef extends a short distance to the southward and westward. Deep water is found around the rocks, and vessels may pass between them. These rocks are designated as I?ichardson's Rocks on recent English charts. A rock above water is laid down two and a half miles north by west quarter west from the western point of San ^Miguel. It has deej) water close to it, ami on recent English charts is designated as Wilscm's l{ock. The total extent of shoreline of the Santa Bar- bara Islands is about two hundred aiul thirty-two miles. ROo{?rni)lii('al 5 noiUi. 1> 27 west. 1 lil.S. tlu' time of rise and lall 8 foet. Tlio ■oriif>«' (liflcr- of the siiiiio rt!ii('('s, wlicii ■tively. The waters, mid these dirt'er- f the liijiJiest noon's (h'cli- homs oeciirs ion's deelina- ())■ the h)\v e. San Dieffo, r. rbor is snp- lary 5, ir>4;5, of the expe- » afterwards Kodriguez. 1 1852, after y west from 3 miles. It , and soiitU- xnd smaller Deep water se roeks are diove water tlie western »lish charts Santa Bar- *?]«ai n viji,..|i.. \iiw I'l Ai 'Vii.'!!,. l.,Mi iij.,; S ^ I-: uiiis.s -, .ml. s Vii'w nl' I'l, s.,| |,,..,,iiic N li "' . r,,j,i|,,i^.. , mill's COAST riLOT OF CALIIOHNIA. 39 FROM POOT C'ONCErCION, ^OKTHWAKD. Tlio first lu'iKllaiid to the nortlnvaia of Point Coiicoptioii is JN.iiit Av.u'iu'Uo,* (listiiiit twelve miles, aiul bearinj; northwest by west half west. Tlie shore is hold and eonipaet, eurvinji- slij-htly t<» the eastward between the two points, and the iiiotintains immediately l)ehind are not less than three thonsand feet in heif-ht. Tv,!) or three handled yards olf Point Ar->iiell() are some detached roeks, ui»oii ■which the steamship Yaidcee IMade struck and was lost oji the 1st of October, 1851, and four hundred and fifteen persons perished. From this point the trend of the coast is nortlnvest to Point E"yes, two hun- dred and forty miles distant, passing tanj-'ent to Point Sur in latitude JiO© 11)^' north, and inside the South Farallon otf San Francisco. Eif^ht miles north of Pt)int \r<;uelIo a small stream emitties into tiu' ocean. It was (considered by Vancouver t!ie laij;('st he had seen south of the Cohnnbia, but it is insi-nilicant and unimportant. Jle states tiiat on the old Spanisli charts it is called the Kio de San I'.alardo. On a French chart (»f 1S41 it is c.dled the San CJeraldo; in Tebeidcotrs collection of charts, 1S4S, it is called the Pivev P>enar(lo; on the Coast Survey charts it is designated La i'luissima, from the Mis- .sion La Purissima C>>;icepcion, situated a few miles inland. On the State map of California it is called the Sa.i Jnes. It rises in lon;;itude 1 IIP L'U', about fifteen miles from the coast, and runs pai-llel therewith behiml the Sierra Com epeion. The first point northward of Point Arjiuello is Point Purissima,- If which makes a reef about a fourh of a mile to tiu' south-southwest. This is known on the coast as I'oint Pedeiiiales, sijiuifyin};- Point of Flints, but freciueiitiy ;::id erroneously printed I'edro Nales. Formerly it was called San Pe I'lcsidio of Sail VnvufiMfo, ■p 40 COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKXIA. ilrod and sixty yards south, H'P west, from tlie point, with ten fathoms close to it except on tlie east side. A rock and heavy breakers lie south four hundred and thirty yards from the point, and between these and the outer breaker is an occa- sional break on ;; ro( U with twelve feet watei'. The south end t.i' "Seal Kock," (an islet forty-live feet liijih and nearly one hundred yards in extent,) lies south .(i feet; of spring tis, 4.S feet; and of neap titles, 2.4 feet. The mean duration of the flood is (I//. 2~»n., and of the ebb ."»//. .jSm. The average dilfer- ence between the corrected establisliiuents of I lie a. m. and p. m. tides of tlu' same day is 1//, 2iin. for high water, and l/(. Ow. for low water. The ditferences when the moon's decliimtion is greatest ai '/(. Omj. and \li. 2.Sw., respectively. The average dilference in height of these two tiih's is 1.5 feet for tlie liigli iMitets, and 2.0 feet for the low waters. When the moon's deeli iiion is greatest, lliose liilfer- ences are 2.0 feet and 3.1 feet, respectively. The average dilfereni o! the Idgher high and lower low waters of the same day is 5.4 feet, and wiien tlie nn)on'8 declination is greatest, (».] feet. The higher high tide in the twenty iir liours occuis about 0/i. lV2m. after the nmon's upper transit, (souihin;;, when tiu' moon's det'lination is north, and about 2h. r>liti. beforr, when soutli. The lower of the low waters occurs about seven houi's after the liighei' high tiiic The greiitest observi'd dilference between the two low waters of one day was t.O et, and the greatest diflerence between the higher high and lower low wai' one day was 8.3 feet. To Ibid the tinies of high and low waters, lust compute them from San Diego, and to the times thus obtained add 30w. for San Luis Obispo. The town of San Luis Obispo, which fakes its iianu' from the ^Mission of that name, founded Septend)er 1, 1772, is not on the bay, but is sitmifed about ten miles in the interior, in the middle of an extensive and excellent grazing country. Conmninication is luaintained with Sau Francisco and other port.s by regular sleamers and Hues of sailing packets. 6« t 7 COAST riLOT OF CALIFORXIA. The bay was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by liini Todos Santos. A preliminary chart of the harbor of San Luis Obispo was issued from the Coast Survey oflice in 1H')2. To the northwest of the bay of Sau Luis Obisi)0 rises to a great heij-ht the I\ronn' de Huchon, which is readily distinguished in coining fron> the northward or southward. The northwestern part of this mountain, though cut by deep gulches, is very plainly marked by three terraces, each of several hundred feet in height. No other i)oint of the coast is so decidedly marked. We have been informed by old otter hunters on this coast that there exists a sunken rock about eight miles south-southwest from Point San Luis, and further- more that they had found keli) upon it iu four fathoms. On the old S[»anish charts an island ap])ears laid down in thai direction, but distant about eight leagues, Ou Tcbeniiotis chart is placed a "doubtful island from Spaui^'i charts" lilty-one miles south OIP west. One <»f the I'acilic mail steamships lay to in a south- east gale and thick fog off Point Concepcion, and drifting to the northward camo nnexi»ectedly upon a suidcen rock, upon which the sea was breaking heavily. The commander supposed the vessel to be then off ^'oint Sal, and had so plott<'d the rock upon his chart; but ujton being informed of the alleged existence of a rock oft" San Luis Obispo, he was satislied that l."e haVo have seen wild out.s growing here over six feet in lieight — not one or two stalks, but in acres. • oliart. (Ustauce of of eifilitoen L blutV and 'S aloiij;' the n Martin of > correction )0 50' north . As there Gorda, it is 'specially as miles from learly half a s, Point Siir it a low neck iphical i)0si- ; 19 north. L 52 west. ' small, high, ctached, and lies square in :ed and four- dras Blaneas eting point is h trends more ^P^-^' ^p^m^-^,....,, "'■:¥f^-^i^^r^m^^. T--^. 3(C^ \'if'w 111' I'l S '"■ '"■^"■"'!^ N \ w ^ u-;i'n,„|,.,ss I'.ISS I t IUl\,-H ■ ' ">Jlt-~-*ft-i .Stir ■-*"*»>>- .n*^*!- Vieworp, I.i„.,sX'!K.hv,n,n,.ass:,Mi|..s &?*V'^M»«rt»«,»*Hi»-ft4*ft-a.'«*l«W»-n*| i%".' COAST PILOT OF CALIFOJiNlA. 45 to tlio castwiird, niimiiifi; iioith-iiortliwcst Tor «'i<;ht miles to I'oiiit Cypress, aiid liiissiii;,^ I'oiiit 4'iiriiiel. the |Hiiiit south of Ciiniiel liiiy. From I'oiiit Aruiiello to I'oiiit Siir, tlie henrin;,' is north IP west, mid llie tlis- taiiee one hnmlied und twenty mih's. From I'oint Sur to Piinta de h)s IJeyes the beurinfj is nortli 4.'P west, iin»l distance one Imndred iind «'i;;hteen miles. The nioniitains, which iiad fallen back iiehind lios l-^steros, now ;,nadnally a]>proacli th<> shore-line nortli of San Simeon; and ai)ont ten miles north of I'ie- dias lilaiicas tlu-y come down abrnjitly to the coast, and run j>arallel with it to I'oint Carmel, foiniinf,' the boldest iind most compact shoie that we have yet passed, and attaininj^ a uniform elevation of nearly four thousand feet. Thes" mountains were called l)y Cabrillo the " Sierras Atlas," but at jireseiit the raii^x' is known as the Sierra de Santa Lucia. Fiom their abrupt faces we have seen cas- cades fallin^f from a lieij,dit of forty or fifty feet directly into the sea. rAKMKL HAY, Between Point Carmel and Point Cyju'css, which are abotit three miles ajiart, lies the small, rocky, and unsafe bay of Caiinel. At the southern ; xtremity is a small cove, sutliciently land-locked and jtrotccted foi' small vessels. Li the vicinity there is an extensive (piarry of granite, and several small coastinj; vessels are emjtloyed tor its transportation to San Fiancisco; but there is so little space tliat they are comiielled t(» warp in and out by buoys placed at the entiance. Point ('yi)ress. the iu)rth point of the bay, is low, and cov<'red with <'ypress to the Avater, and is the lirst wooded i)oint met with in coming ftdui the southward. Tlu^ upi>er biiinches of the trees are spread out 1\\ the iutluence of the strouf,^ prevail- ing winds, and |)resent a llat or undtrella-like aiti)earauce. The Mission del Carmelo is situated but a short distam-e from tbe shores of the l)ay, and can be seen in certain directions from the water. Alter the al':)lish- ment of the Society of Jesus in Lower California, by the I'^uiiH-ror Charles 111 of Si)ain, with the tran.sfi'r of the administration of the ndssious to the Dominican monks, and of the ))roperty to the I'^ranciscau hieal sketch of Point Piiios is given in the annual report of the Coast Survej' for 1851. The general coast chart from Point Pinos to P)odega Head gives all the topo- graphical and liydrograi)hical characteristics of the coast. It was published by the Coast Survey in 18G2. IJAY OF MONTERFA'. Point Pinos forms the southwest jioint «»f this 1)ay, and Piinta de la Santa Cruz (forming the western shore of the anchorage of Santa Cruz) the northwest COAST I'lLOT or (ALIFOKNIA. 47 point. A lino Joiiiiiif; those two ijoints nins north 27° west, iiiiictcon nnd throc- fi;;litli.s miles, inul the ^ficiitt'st width of tlii' hiiy, near tlic mouth of the SaliiiaH Iiiv«>i', is ]iinc sintl tlirct- *'i;.'htlis mih's. From Toiiit I'inos to tlic aiichornjic oiV tlic town of Monterey tiie eonrsc is cast by Hontii half sontli, and the distance tiiiee mih-s. The shore towards i\w. town is rny;;('d, ''omposod of granite, and covered with a heavy gr()wth of lir; hut to the eastward of the town is a h)n};, san;ly heaeh, haeked by sand »bines of sligiit elevation. For a distance of ten miles iilong this beach the line of tiiree fathoiiis lii's at a distance of one hunched and tilty yards olVsiiore, the water deci)- euin;;' rapdly beyontl that, and the bottom almost everywheie hard. Vessels .oming fnnn the northward, bound to Montt'rey, follow the coast from Poiid Ano Nuevu to I'oint Santa Cruz, then run well into tlie bay, but not too far, for fear of losing the wind, and to avoid the set of the heavy swell rolling towards the beach. Ticaving l*oint Santa Cruz and Ivcejdng on a southeast by east cour.se about lifteen miles will bring ves.sels int(t twenty live fathoms, aiul nearly two miles from the beach; thence a south course for eight ndles will bring them to the anchorage in ten fathoms, and half a ndle from the landing. Tlie.se precautions are nece.s.sary, because Point I'inos, with the wliole bay, is frequently enveloped in a den.se fog. Very often the coasting steamers have to run for the beach, and then be guided by the rote to the anchorage. La Terou-se says he heard the rote when one league oHthe .shore. A direct course from i'oint Afio Xuevo to the anchorage is .southeast '"df cast, and the distance thirty-six and a half nnles. From I'oint I'inos to Point Ano Nuevo the bearing is north 47° we.st, ami the distance thirty-four ndles. 15y ancluning well in at the western side of the anchorage ves.sels will avoid iiuu'h of the swell that comes in with the heavy ncnthwest wind.s, but never sullicient to make any berth there dangerous. In heavy .southerly weather I'oint I'inos breaks the swi'U, but the wind draws very strong over the anchorage. The water .shoals from fifteen to three fathoms in a distance of three hundred yards, and the lead should be u.sed to avoid running in too far. AVhen the California mail steam.ships stopped at Moiderey they frecpu-ntly ran outside of I'oint I'inos, or in very dangenuis proximity to it. This led to their firing a gun when approaching the harbor during foggy or dark weather, and upon the report being heard at the f(Ut a gnu was fired in au.swer, and the exchange kept up nntil the steamer was safe at her anchorage. We were encainjM'd at I'oint Pinos when the steamship Carolina was brought in by this means, after she had got nearly as far down as Oarmel Bay. The approximate geographical position of the end of the wharf, abreast of the custom-house at ^Monterey, is: O ' " Latitude 30 ;?(> 1 1 north. Longitude 121 5L' L'7 we.st. h. m. s. Or, m time 8 07 L'O.H I ■! 48 COAST riLOT OF CALTFOEls^IA, Thhs. — The corroctod ostiiblishinciit, or moan iiitorviil tu"t\vo(Mi tlio time r)f tho moon's trjuisit iiiid the time of liijili Wiitcr, is 10//. 'l'2i)i. The iiiciiii rise iind fiill of tides is .'5.-t feet ; of spriiij;- tides, 4..'! feet ; ;ind of iieii;; rides L'.."i feet. Tlie mean dnratioii ■■a' the Hood is (»//. 'Mm.; of tlie el»l», Hit. 'Jin,, and of tiie st.ind, ()/(. 3.">/h, The av<'iaji(' difference between tlu' corrected establishment of tlie a. lii. and p. m. tich'S of the same day is l/(. 44m. forhi^^Ii water, and l/(. 'Jiii. for k>w water. The differeiu'cs, when the moon's (h-clination is {greatest, are 2/' iOiii. ind \li. liSw., respectively. The average dilference in lieij^ht of these two tides is h\ feet for the hij;h waters, and 2.4 feet for the low waters, "When the nnwin's (h clination is greatest these ditferences arc li.l* feet ami :>.7 feet, resitcctively. The averaf^e dif- ference of the hijiher h- ',h and lower low waters of the same day is .")..''» t'ect, and wlien the n\oon's de(!lination is .greatest, (»..'5 feet. The liij;lier high ti(h' in the twen- ty-four hours occurs alMiut !>//. 'Mini, after the moon's ni>i)er transit, (soulliin,u',) ^vllen the moon's declination is north, and ahont '2li. ~>Oiii. before, when south. The lower of tl'.c low waters occurs ab lut se\(Mi hours aftei' the liiglier hii;li tide. The greatest observeil dill'erence Itctween the low waters ef one ih\y was 4..'{ feet, and the greatest diU'erencc between tlie higlier high and Utwer low wateis of one day was 7.\) feet. To find the times of high ami low wateis, first coi)!i>ute the tinu'.'-. for San Francisco, and from the numbers thus obtained sid>tract 1//. 44>h. for Monterey. The town of Monterey ))rescnts a veiy pretty apjiearance as seen IVom the water. lmm«'diately behind it tb" country rises in plateaus, diversified li\ hill and valley, and beautifully dottetl by oak groves. It was the capital of (.'alifornia while under fhe rule of ^Mexico, and foi' soi.,,' years after it became a State. A l*oi,.iguese com|)any has been I'ornu'd here to engage in the whale li.->iieiy, and even with inad«'(|uate means if succeeded in ol>taiiiing over sixteen thousand gallons of oil (which sold lor twelve thousand dollars) iti less than a yeai'. Other companies have since been formed ; their cruising ground is the bay of Mdiiterey, and a sluM't distance to sea. ( >|)eiati(ius are caiiied on by means of bdats fur- nished with bondt lances during the season, which usually last nine months — from i\Iar«'h to Xovember. Uegular comuuuiication is kept u|) with all i)arts (»f the coast by ste.mu'rs and numerous sailing vessels. Stages cosumunieate with Sant;'. Cruz ami all the towns to San Francisco. Following the shore from the town of ^louterey, northward, it ]iresents a uni- form sand beach running m-arly north, backed by low, dreary sand dunes, pro- diicing sparsely fhe coarsest grasses and bushes, and entirely destitute of fresh Avater. This waste extends to the Salinas Uivei, of which we I'cacli the great beml at about nine and half miles IVom M(MitneM;iventura, Monterey, and Siilinas; but it is now jieii- erally kii()\ni by the last name. It rises in the iatitinle oi" the IMedrns Blaneas; one branch about twenty and tlic otlu'r tiiirty-tlii'ee miles from tiic coast. Tiiese branehes meet at Sau Mij,niel, and tlience the stream I'uns jtarallei witii the «'oast and behind tlK> Sierra Santa Lueia. From its mouth, wiiieh is only sixty yards wide at lov water, to the entrance to the Rio del I'(ij(tro, or San Antonio, tlie dis- tance is two it:;'1 a quarter miles; the shore trendinj; to tlie north-northwest. The entran(;e of that river bears north by east, fourteen miles from Point I'inos. From lu're tlie coast runs nortliwest nearly straij;iit to .Vtos Creelc, a distance of sevesi or ei^;ht miles, and about six miles east liy north of Santa Cruz, with tiie shor<' rocky and abrupt. Nort. of the Salinas liiver commence rich meadow and table hinds, alVordinjj; to tlie settler spots unsur])asscd fi>r productiveness, even in tile proiitic State of (.'aliloinia. A remarkable submarine vaih'y, similar to tliat oiV Point Ilueiicmc, has been discovered, an.', to some extent tiai'cd (uit in tliis hay b\ Lieutenant Commanding (now Commodore) .lames Aldeii, I'uited States navy. The head of tliis valley is live-ei;;iiths of a mile .south of the mouth of the Salinas liiver, and the twenty- fathom li'ie is only a (juarter of a mih' otl' the beach, the depth inereasing to titty fathoii'.s, in the next quarter of a mile. At this di.stanee from shore tlu' twenty- fatluun lines are three-eighths of a mile apart. Tlie general ilirectioii of the valley for tlie next two miles is southwest half west, wliere we liiid a depth of one liuiubed and seventeen t'nthoms, and the lilty-fatlioiu lines lie about live-eighths of a mile apart ; tlience the valley runs about west, reaehing a depth of one hun- dred and seventy fathoms in a mile, and two hundred unil forty fathoms in three and a (piarter miles, with forty-two fathoms, less than a mile to tlie north of this. Til'.' soundings are not numerous enough to trace its outlines in (h'ei» water ; hut thM indications are that, for ten miles of its length, it runs south iHP west, with no bottom at three hundred anV2. and called the Pay of Pines. It was surveyed by Sebastian Vi/.caino in ItJOi', and the name wa.s changed to I'uerlo de Moiile-rey, in honor of the Spanish viceroy of Mexico, Don Caspar de Ziuiiga, Count de Monte rey, who disiiatehed the expedition. 50 COAST PILOT OF CALIFOTimA. It Avas used by the SpanisU galleons on tlieir return from Manilla to Mexi//. 47«(. ; of the ebb, .'i/t. 45Ht. ; and of the stand, 0//. 20w. The average ditlerenee between the corrected establishment of the a. m. and p. in. tiih's (»f the same day is 1/;. 44w. for hij^li water, aud 1/t. 2»i. for low water. The ditVcreiices, when the moon's declination is {ifreatest, are 2/(,. 40»j. and 1//. 28w., respectively. The averaj;e ditlerenee in height of these two tides is 1.4 foot for the high waters, and 2.4 feet for the low waters. When the moon's declination is greatest the.se dilfereiices are 2.2 feet and .'{.7 feet, respectively. The average dilfereuce of the higher high aud lower low waters of the same day is (i.O feet, aud when the moon's declination is greatest, 7.0 feet. Tiie higher high tide in the twenty-four hours occurs about 0/i. .Vim. after the luoou's upi»er transit, (southing,) when the mooirs decliiialiou is iiortli, and about 2//. ~i\in. before, when S(Uith. The knver of the low waters occurs about 7//. after the higher high tide. It was oft" Point Santa Cruz that Cabiillo is supposed to have anchored on tho 17th of 2s'oveuiber ir>42, upon his return from the northward. POINT ANO NUKVO. From Point Santa Cruz to Point Ano Xuevo the distance is eigliteen miles, and the general direction west by north threetpiarters north, at first curving to the southwestward of that ccmrse, and then to the northward, until witliin tliree miles of the J'ock oft Point AFio Nnevo, when the sh(U'<> curves well to westward, (for the last mile to the southwest,) forming an anchorage protected somewhat against the heavy swell from the northwest, and having a depth of live fathoms within less than half a mile of the sluire, and from ten to lifteen fathoms at the distance of ii mile. At a quarter of a mile from the point lies a black, jagged islet, consisting of a sloi)iiig ledg(> of rocks covered with a stratum of yellow clay about four feet thick, and this again covi'ii'd with a mound of sand about thirty feet high. Upon this a light house is to be built. The point itself is composed of rolling hills of shifting sand, varying from twenty to «»ne hundred \W\ ill height, while behind them rises I mi: 52 COAST riLOT OF CALIFORNIA. IV i! ■ the Santa ('ruz raiifjo of mountains. The coast tiail, wiiidi follows tho bcaoli from tlic sdiitlnvaiil, licit' stiiUrs ui» tlic hills behind tho sand dunes. Steamers coiiiinj; upon the eoast IVoni the southward in liiiek weather always ondeavor to make the land near I'oint Ano Xuevo, and then follow the eoast to tho San Kranciseo bar. On aoeount of its iiiii»ortanee hi this respeet a light-house was recommended by the Superintendent o^'Hie Coast Survey, The otf-shore souiidiiij;s from ^Monte'vy 13ay to the Farallones show that the dei)th of one hundred fathoms t-radiuil.y leaves the coast. South of Santa Cruz the depth of one hundred fathoms is found between eight ami nine miles from the shore, and continues at this distance until nearly up with Point Afio Nuevo, where it sud(h'nly increases to fourteen miles distant and thence runs northwest on a Vuw lying live nules outside of the Farallones, The ay, yet, the report of Dr. J. B. Trask is that an extensive bed of magnetic iron occurs in this section, run- ning down to the coast, where it crops out and exhibits a depth of several feet. From Point Ano Nuevo tlu^ coast has a general direction mu'thwest for nine miles to Point Bolsa, along a very rocky and bold shore with lifteen fathoms at a distance of half a mih^ This is the Cai)e Tonrpiin of Tebeidcoff and others. At the distance of tive miles from Afio Nuevo is I'igeou I'oint, named from the wreck of the cli|)i»cr shij* Wild Pigeon. The high nu)untain lying square in from Point Bolsa is Black Mountaiti, dis- tant thirteen and one-half miles, and bearing north 5;?° east. Two miles north of La Bolsa empties the Piscador, a small stream running through a valley of incon- siderable extent. For tlu^ foregoing twelve miles the general formation of the immediate seaboard is that of a table-land of three terraces, the lowest gradually sloping from the base of the second to the coast, which is exceedingly rocky and forbidding; the underlying stratum is sandstone. From Pohit Ano Nuevo to I'illar Point, or Punta de Corral Tierra, forming the south and western ])oint of Ilalf-nmon Bay, the general direction is northwest by north, and the distance twenty-four and a half miles. Three and a third miles above the Piscadtu' opens the San (.rregorio, another small stream, and two and COAST PILOT OF CALIFOKXIA. m ono-tliird inilos still further opens the Tiiiiitas. The seaboard between the valley of the IMseador and that of the San (Jreyurio undiT^oes a strikin;;- chanjie both in the character of its to])oj;vai)hy and its {•('•'lofiy- Instead of the tableland, we meet with a si»ur of the Coast mountains runninjif into the sea, ami havinj>- an ele- vatiou of six liundred feet within a mile of it. The shore-line and tlu' coast j;'en- erally present a very broken and rugged a[)pearance, occasioned by the deep gulches cut throngh to the ocean. HALF-MOON BAY. This anchorage is six miles south-southeast from Point San Pedro, and eigh- teen miles south by east from the Gohh'U (late. The southwestern ])oint of the bay is formed by a blutf table-land about oiui hundied and sixty feet in height, called the Corral de Tierra, three hundred and twenty-tive yards south of which stretch a number of black rocks, which show as one when seen coming nj) the coast, but as three or four when approached from the northwest. The largest is nearly as high as the bluff, and locally known as Sail Rock, or Pillar Itock. The jjoint is known as Pillar Point, and from its southeastern extremity rocky and foul bottom, marked by kelp, extends southeast one-third east, seven-eighths of a mile, dropping suddeidy from fourteen feet to live fathoms. This is the inner reef, and makes the bay available as a summer aiu'horage. One mile and three- quarters southeast from the saiiH> part of the point, a narrow ledge of rocky bot- tom, one-third of a mile long, ami marked by kelj), stretches in the sanu' general direction. The passage between this outer and the inner reef is three-([uarters of a mile witle, with rocky ami uneven bottom, from three and it (piarter to ten and one-quarter fathoms. These ledges lie i)arallel with the Coast mountains, and with the shoreline from which the outer one is distant one ami three-eighths mile. From the eastern extremity of the point the shore I'uiis northwest by north for a (pnirter of a mile; then noitheast for three-(iuarters of a mile, curving to the east- ward and southeastward in a long bend, for two and a half miles to the month of the Arroyo de los Pillarcitos, down which cories the oidy road crossing the penin- sula of San Francisco, between the Lagnini de ilercedes and Santa Cruz. The highest part of this road, which crosses a depression of the peninsula, is near the Coast Survey station "Itidge," which is one thousand and ninety-three feet above the ocean, and but a few feet higher than the road. Tin; outer reef is nearly abreast of the Pillarcitos, from which the (!oast runs south four miles to iliramon- tes Point, which is south -tso east, live miles from Pillar Point; thence to the mouth of the Tunitas the distance is fonr miles southeast. The greatest extent of the bay may be said to be between Pillar and Miramontes Points, but the part near the fornuT only is available. About two and a half miles along the coast, northwestward from Pillar Point, a dangerous ledge lies ab(mt one-half mile otf shore. It lias ten to fifteen feet upon it, and mu(;h broken water around it. Detailed examinations might develop less water. The sluu'e Itehind it has a low bluff from twenty to sixty feet high, 54 COAST PILOT OF CALIFORNIA. with ii broad, flat valley bohiiul it, so that vessels, in hazy or dark weather, may mistake their distance Iroin the shore. The sonndiiifis between tlie roeky ledges and the shore arc qnito rognlar, decreasing from nine lathoms to three fatlioins at h'ss than a quarter of a mile from the beach, with sandy bottom. The jtassage to tlu^ anchorage is between tiie inner and outer reef, with the high, bare-topped mountain bearing a little north of east, and rillar Point open to the westward. This mountain is steep, with strag- gling redwoods on its Hanks, and the sumuiit bare. It is locally known as P>ald Pate; but, on the Spanish grants, as Cumbra de las Auras. When inside the reefs beat up until IMllar Point bears about southwest, distant half a mile, and anchor in four and a half fathoms, hard saml. With light southerly winds a heavy swell sets in ; but upon the approach of heavy sontheast weather it is neces- sary to go to sea. The nmss of redwoods cresting the mountains of the peninsula cease abruptly abreast of Miramontes, and only stragglers are seen to the northward. They are a good mark frn- recognizing this part of the coast when coming in from sea. Around Ualf-moon Bay is a limited extent of agricultural country at the sea- ward base of tho mountains, and small coasters carry the produce to Sau Fran- cisco. About one mile along the coast to the northwestward is a small boat harbor, one hundred yards wide, formed and protected by outlying rocrks, and having three and a half fathoms in it. In the autumn months it is u.u'd as a wiiiiling station. About a thousaiul barrels of humpback oil were obtai.ied in the fall of 1803. Point »S\