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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les t^'t'^;*, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s A des taux de r6duction diff^rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 32X 12 3 4 5 6 f^j^>^y>-f*^^- j A' / » J^^ ^ IN DARKEST AFRICA oil THE QUEST, RESC;iTE, AND RETREAT OF EM IN GOVERNOR OF EQUATORIA BY HENRY M. STANLEY WITH TWO STEEL ENORAVINCJS, AND ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS IN TWO VOLUMES Vol. I " I will not vvaai'. lo jjfo forward until I conio to tlio place where the two seai* nuH't. thouiili I travel ninety years,"— Kohan, chap, xviii., v. tVi. rs f NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS TORONTO PRESBYTERIAN NEWS COMPANY 1890 [All riijhtH reiierced\ Entered according to Act of PnrlianiMit of Cnnndn, in the year 1890. by SAMPSON [,0W, MARSTON, SEARLE. & RIVINGTON Limited London, England, at the Department of A£n°iculturu. COPVRIOHT, 1890, BT CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS I'riiiti;il ami lluuinl lly JAMHS MUKKAV «: Co. rORON ro, ONT. atet CONTENTS OF VOLUME I. Pbefatort Letter to Sir Wilmam Mackinnon, Chairman op the emin pasha relief expedition TAOI CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY CHAITER. The Khedive and the Soudan — Arabi Pasha— Hicks Pasha's defeat — The Mahdi — Sir Evelyn Baring and liord Granville on the Soudan — Valentine Baker Pasha — General Gordon : his work in the Tipper Soudan — Edward Schnitzler (or Emin Effendi Hakim) and his Province— General Gordon at Khartoum: and account of the Relief Expedition in 1884 under Lord Wolseley — Mr. A. M. Mockay, the missionary in Uganda — Letters from Emio Bey to Mr. Mackay, Mr. C. H. Allen, and Dr. R. W. Felkin, relating to his Province — Mr. F. Holmwood's and Mr. A. M. Mackay's views on the proposed relief of Emin — Suggested routes for the Emin Relief Expedition — Sir Wm. Mackinnon and Mr. J. F. Button— The Relief Fund and preparatory details of the Expedition —Colonel Sir Francis De Winton — Selection of oflScers for the Expedition — King Leopold and the Congo Route —Departure for Egypt 11 CHAPTER TT. EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR. Surgeon T. H. Parke — Views of Sir Evelyn Baring, Nubar Pasha, Professor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker on the Emin Relief Expedition — Details relating to Emin Pasha and his Province — General Grenfell and the ammunition — Breakfast with Khedive Tewfik: message to Emin Pasha— Departure for Zanzibar — Description of Mombasa town — Visit to the Sultan of Zanzibar — Letter to Emir Pasha sent by messenger through Uganda — Arrangements with Tippu-Tili — Emin Pasha's Ivory — Mr. MacKenzie, Sir John Pender, and Sir James Anderson's assist- ance to the Relief Expedition 49 IV coxrrxTs. CHAlTKn III. BY SEA TO THE CONGO UIVKU. i-M-r. The Sultan of Zaiiziliar — Tijjpii-'ril) and Stanley Falls— On l)oar(l 8.S. Mudurn—'' Shindy " ln'twcen the Zan/,il>aris and SDiulaiiese — Skotclies of my Viirious Otfi'-iTs — Ti|)|)U-Tili and Capo Town — Arrival at the mouth of the Coii^o itivor— Start up tln^ (' (Ufro— Visit from two of tho Executive Committee of the Congo State — I'npleapant thouj^hts 07 CIIAPTKll TV. Ti) ST.XNLEV pool.. •Details of tlie journey to Stanley Tool — The Soudanese and tho Somalis— Mtetinij: with .A[r. Herbert Ward — Camp at Conpo la Lemba— Kindly enteitaiued l)y ;\[r. and iMrs. Hiehards — liutters from uj) river — Letters to the IJev. Mr. Bciitley and others for assistance — Arrival at Mwembi -Necessity of enforcing disci- pline—March to Voml)!)— Inciilent at Lukungu Station — The Zanzibaris — Incident between Jeplisun niid Salim at the Inkissi Kiver — A series of comi)laints — llie Hev. Mr. l?entley and the steamer /Vmr^We reach Makoko's village — Leopoldville — Diffi- culties regarding the use of the Mission steamers — Monsieur ■ Liebrichts sees Mr. Billington — Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kin- ■• shassa— Orders to, and duties of, the officers Ai 79 CIIAPTEK V. FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA. Upper Congo scenery — Accident to V ^ Peace — Steamers reach Kimpoko— Collecting fuel — Tlie good-for-no.-iiug Pewe — The Sf(iii/('!/ in trouble — Arrival at Bolobo— The Relief Rxpedition arranged in two colunuis — Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson chosen for command of Kear Column — Arrival at Equator and Bangala Stations — The Basoko village.^: Baruti deserts us — Arrival at Yambuya 99 CHAPTER VI. Ugi AT YAMBUYA. We land at Yambuya villages — The Stanley leaves for Equator Station — Fears regarding Major Barttelot and the Henn/ Heed — Safe arrival — Instructions to Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson respecting the Rear Column — JIajor Bnrttelot's doubts as to Tippu-Tib's good faith — A long conversation with Major Bart- telot — Memorandum for the oilicers of the Advance Column- Illness of Lieutenant Stairs— Last night at Yambuya : state- ments as to our forces and accoutrements Ill CONTEXTS. m^ CHAPTER VII. TO TANQA FALLS. An Africiui road -Our mode of travelling througl; the forests — Farewell to Jameson and the 3Iajor — JOO days in the forest — The l{ai»ids of Yanihuya — Attacked hy natives of Yankonde — Kest at the village of Jiahunga — Deserii)tion of our march — The iK)is(jned skewers — Capture of six J^ahali -Dr. Parke and the bees — A tenii)est in the forest — Mr. Jejihson puts tlut steel lioat together— The village of Pukanda — Hefuse heaps of tlio villages— The Aruwimi river .scenery — Villages of the liakuti and the Bakoka — The Pa])ids of Gweiigwere -The hoy Pakula — Our " chop and coflfee " — The islands near Pandangi — Tho Pahurn dwarfs— The unknown course of the river —Tlic Somalis — Bartering at Mariri and Mu])e — The Aruwimi at ^lujie — The lialie manners, customs, and dress — Jephson's two ailventures — Wasji Eapids— The chief of the Bwamlmri — Our camp at My-yui — Canoe accident — An ahandoned village — Arrival at Panga Falls — Description of the Falls l.'U CHAPTi II VIIT. FROM PANGA FALLS TO UGAHHOWWA'S. Another accident at the Eapids — The village of Utiri — Avisibba .settlement -Enrjuiry into a murder case at Avisibba — Sur- jirised by the natives — Lieutenant Stairs wounded — We hunt up the enemy — The poisoned arrows — Indiiference of the Za,n/i- baris — jei)hson's caravan uiissing — Our woundeil — ^Peri)etual rain — Deaths of Khalfan, Saadi, and others — Arrival of caravan — The Mabengu Rapids — Mustering the ])eople— The N(^poko river — Pemarks by Pinza — Our food supply — Peckli^ss use of ammunition — Halfway to tlie Albert Lake — We fall in with some of Ugarrowwa's men — Absconders— We camp at Hip])0 Proads and Avaly natives Scenery on tlio lake's sliore— \V« climb a nitmntain -A rich discovery of grain— The rich valley of rndussunia— Our return journey to Ibwiri— The construction of Kort Bodo 31 Jl CHA?TK1{ XIII. LIFK AT FOIIT BODO. Our imiHjnding duties — Tlie stockade of Fort Bodo — Instructio:;s to Lieutenant Stairs— His dejiarture for Kilonpa-Longa's— Pested by rats, mosquitoes, &v. — Nights disturlnjil by the lemur- Annies of red ants— Snakes in troi)ical Africa — Hoisting the p]gyijtian flag — Arrival of Surgeon Parke and Captain Nelson froui Ipoto — R(!iK)rt of their stay with the Manyuenia— Lieu- tenant Stairs arrives with tlie steel l)oat— We determine to iMish on to the Lake at once— Volunteers to convey letters to Major Barttelot — Illness of myself and Captain Nelson — Uledi captures a Queen of the Pigmies- Our fields of corn — Life at Fort Bodo — We again set out for the Nyanza 350 CHAPTER XIV. TO THE ALBERT NYANZA A SECOND TIME. Difficulties with tlie steel l>oat — African forest craft— S))len's officers — i']min's cattle forays — The Khedive departs forMswa station — Mabrnki and his wages — The Pasha and the use of the sextant — Ttcparture of local chiefs — Arrival of the Khedive and Sij'inza steamers v/ith soldiers — Made arrangements to return in search of the rear-column— My message to the troops — Our Badzwa road — A farewell dance by tlie Zanzibaris — The Madi carriers' disai)pcarance— First sight of lluwenzori — Former circunnia\igators of the Albert I^ake — Lofty twin-peak mountain near the East Ituri l?iver — Aid for Emin against Kabba Bcga— Two letters from Emin Pasha — We are informed of an intended attack on us by chiefs Kadongo and Musiri — Fresh Madi carriers — \Ve attack K'a(U)iigo'scamp — With assistance from Mazamboni and Gavira we march on Musiri's camjt which turns out to be deserted — A phalanx dance by Mazamboni's warriors — Music on the African Continent — Camii at Nzera-kum Hill — Presents from various chiefs — Chief Musiri wishes for peace .. .. 416 chapte:i xvil ^ PERSONAL, TO THE PASHA. Age and early days of Emin Pasha— Gordon and the pay of Emin Pasha — Last interview with Gordon Pasha in 1877— P^min's last supply of ammunition and ]irovisions — Five years' isolation — Mackay's library in Uganda — Dmin's abilities and titnesf- fir his ])Osition— His linguistic and other attainments — Emin's industry — His neat journals— Story related to me by Shukri Agha referring to Emin's escape from Kirri to Mswa — Emin confirms the story — Some natural history facts related tome by Emin - The Pasha and the Dinka tribe— A lion story — Emin and " bird studies" 422 CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER XVIII. START FOR THE HKLIEF OF THE REAB COLUMN. TAOB Escorterl by various tribes to Mukangi — Camp at Ukuba village — Arrival at Fort Bodo — Our invalids in Ugarrowwa's care — Lieut. Stairs' report on his visit to bring up the invalids to Fort Hodo— Night visits by the malicious dwarfs — A general •uuster of the garrison — I decide to conduct the Relief force in person — Captain Nelson's ill-health— My little fox-terrier " Randy "—Description of the fort — The Zanzibaris — Esti- mated time to perform the ji)urney to Yanibuya and back — Lieut. Stairs' suggestion about the steamei .'^fnn/eij — Conversa- tion with Lieut. Stairs in reference to ^Major Rarttelot and the Rear Column — Letter of instructions to Lieut. Stairs 452 CHAPTER XIX. ARRIVAL AT 15ANALVA : BAHTTELOT DEAD ! The Relief Force— The difficulties .)f marching — We reach Ipoto — Kilonga Longa apologises for t'le behaviour of his Manyueraa — The chief returns us some of our rifles — Dr. Parke and fourteen men return to Fort Bodo— Ferrying across the Ituri River — Indications of some of our old camps — We unearth our buried stores — The Manyuemi escort — Bridging the Lenda River — The famished Madi — Accidents and deaths among tiie Zanzi- baris and Madi— My little fo.\-terrier "Randy" — The vast clearing of Ujangwa — Native women guides — We reach Ugarrowwa's aiiandoned station - - Welcome food at Amiri Falls— Navabi E'alls — Halt at -^vamburi landing-place — Death of a Madi chief — Our buried sv res near Basopo unearthed aiid stolen — Juma and Nassib wander away from the Column — The evils of forest marciiing — Conversation between my tent-boy, Sali, and .-i Zanzibari — Numerous bats at Mabengu village— We reach Avisibba, and find a young Zanzibari girl — Nejambi Rapids and Panga Falls— The natives of Panga—At Mugwye's we disturb an intendel feast— We overtake Ugar- rowwa at Wasp Rapids and find our courier.s and some deserters in his camp — The head courier relates his tragic story — Amusing letter from Dr. Parke to Major Barltelot — Progress of our canoe flotilla down the river— Tlie Batundu natives — Our progress since leaving the Nyauza -Thougiits about the Rear Column — Desolation along tlie i>anks of the river — We reach Banalya — Meeting with Bonny — The Major is dead — Banalya Camp.. 408 CHAPTER XX. THE SAD STOltY OF THE REAR TOLUMN. Tippu-Til)— Major E. M. Barttelot— Mr. J. S. Jameson— Mr, Herbert Ward— Messrs. Troup and Bonny — Major Barttelot 's Report on the doings of the Rear Column — Conversation with Mr. Bonny —Major Bartt(Oot's letter to ^Ir. Bonny — Facts gleaned from the written narrative of Mr. Wm. Bonny — Mr Ward detained at Bangala— Rei)eated visits of the Major to Stanley Falls— Murder CONTENTS. PAGB of Major Barttelot— Bonny's account of the murder— The assassin Sanga is punished— Jameson dies of fever at Bangala Station — Meeting of the advance and rear columns— Dreadful state of the camp— Tippu-Tib and Major Barttelot— Mr. Jameson —Mr. Herbert Ward's report 408 APPENDIX. Copy of Log of Rear Column 527 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME 1. STEEL ENGRAVINO. Portrait of Henry M. Stanlev FroHtiapiere. (From a Photogruph by Elliott & Fry, 18K«.) FULL-PA GE ILL USTRA Tioys. FacliiK paste Group — Mr. Stanley and his Officers 1 The Steel Boat "Advance" 80 In the Night and Rain in the Forest 14(i The Fight with the Avisibba Cannibals 174 The Ri.ver Column Ascending the Aruwimi Kiver wivh the "Ad- vance" and Sixteen Canoes 1H4 Wooden Arrows of the Avisibba 180 "The Pasha is Coming" I'.Ki The Relief of Nelson and Survivors at Starvation Camh . . 2r)() Gymnastics in a Forest Clearing '^.W Ivuou ; A Call to Arms '28. s pi ^ '3 < ■/ > ? .2 - =1 IN DARKEST AFRICA, a K S P. & O PREFATORY LETTER. My deah Sir William, I have great pleasure in dedicating this hook to ycu. It professes to be the Official Report to yourself and the Emin Relief Committee of what we have experienced and endured during our mission of Relief, which cir- cumstances altered into that of Rescue. You may accept it as a truthful record of the journeyings of the Expedition which you and the Emin Relief Committee entrusted to my guidance. I regret that I was not able to accomplish all that I burned to do when I set out from England in January, 1887, but the total collapse of the Government of Equatoria thrust upon us the duty of conveying in hammocks so many aged and sick people, and protecting so many helpless and feeble folk, that we became trans- formed from a small fighting column of tried men into a mere Hospital Corps to whom active adventure was denied. The Governor was half blind and possessed much luggage, Casati was weakly and had to be carried, and 90 per cent, of their followers were, soon after starting, scarcely able to travel from age, disease, weak- ness or infancy. Without sacrificing our sacred charge, to assist which was the object of the Expedition, we could neither deviate to the right or to the left, from the most direct road to the sea. VOL, L B IN DARKEST AFRICA. I if You who throughout your long and varied life have steadfastly believed in the Christian's God, and before men have professed your devout thankfulness for many mercies vouchsafed to you, will bet^ understand than many others the feelings which an . .^e me when I find myself back again in civilization, uninjured in life or healtli, after passing through so many stormy and dis- tressful periods. Constrained at the dprkeF:t hour to humbb confess that without God's help I w\as helpless, I vowed a vow in the forest solitudes that I would confess His aid before men. A silence as of death was round about me ; it was midnight ; I was weakened l)y illness, prostrated with fatigue and worn with anxiety for my white and l)lack companions, whose fate was a mystery. In this physical and mental distress I be- sought God to give me back my people. Nine hours later we were exulting with a rapturous joy. In full view of all was the crimson flag with the crescent, and beneath its waving folds v/as the long-lost rear column. Again, we had emerged into the open country out of the forest, after such experiences as in the collective annals of African travels there is no parallel. We w^ere approaching the region- wherein our ideal Governor w\^s reported to be beleaguered. All that we heard from such natives as our scouts caught prepared us for des- perate encounters with multitudes, of whose numbers or qualities none could inform us intelligently, and when the population of Undusuma swarmed in myriads on the hills, and the valleys seemed alive with warriors, it really seemed to us in our dense ignorance of their character and power, that these were of those who hemmed in the Pasha to the west. If he with his 4000 soldiers appealed for help, what could we effect with 173? The night before I had been reading the exhortation of Moses to Joshua, and whether it was the effect of those ' brave words, or whether it was a voice, I know not, but it appeared to me as though I heard : *' Be strong, and of a good courage, fear not, nor be afraid of them, for the Lord thy God He it is that doth go with thee. He will not fail thee nor forsake thee." When on the next rHEFATOHy LETTER. :\ day Mazaml)oni commanded his people to attack and exterminate us, there was not a coward in our camp, whereas the evening before we exchiimed in l)itterness on seeing four of our men fly before one native, "And these are the wretches with whom we must reach the Pasha I " And yet again. Between the confluence of the Ihuru and the Dui rivers in December 1888, 150 of the l)est and strongest of our men had been despatclied to forage for food. They had been absent for many days more than they ought to have been, and in the mean- time 130 men besides boys and women were starving. They were supported each day with a cup of warm thin ])roth, made of butter, milk and water, to keep death away as long as possible. When the provisions were so reduced that there were only sufficient for thirteen men for ten days, even of the thin broth with four tiny biscuits each per day, it became necessary for me to hunt up the missing men. They might, being without a leader, have been reckless, and been besieged by an overwhelming force of vicious dwarfs. My following consisted of sixty-six men, a few women and children, who, more active than the others, had assisted the tiiin fluid with the berries of the phrynium and tne amomum, and such fungi as could be discovered in damp places, and therefore were possessed of some little strength, though the poor fellows were terribly emaciated. Fifty -one men, besides boys and women, were so prostrate with debility and disease that they would be hopelessly gone if within a few hours food did not arrive. My white comrade and thirteen men were assured of sufficient for ten days to protract the struggle against a painful death. We who were bound for the search possessed nothing. We could feed on berries until we could arrive at a plantation. As we travelled that afternoon we passed several dead bodies in various stages of decay, and the sight of doomed, dying and dead produced on my nerves such a feeling of weakness that I was well-nigh overcome. Every soul in that camp was paralysed with sadness and IN DARKEST AFRICA. suffering. Despair had made them all dumb. Not a sound was heard to disturb tlie deathly brooding. It was a mercy to me that I heard no murmur of reproach, no sign of rebuke. I felt tlie horror of the silen(;e of the forest and the night intensely. Sleep was impossible. My thoughts dwelt on these recurring dis()l)ediences which caused so much misery and anxiety. " Stiff-necked, rebellious, incorrigible human nature, ever showing its animalism and lu'utisliness, let the wret(^hes be for ever accursed ! Tlieir utter thought- less and oblivious natures and continual breach of promises kill more men, and cause more anxiety, than the poison of the darts or barbs and points of the arrows. If I meet them I will " But before the resolve was uttered flashed to my memory the dead men on the road, the doomed in the camp, and the starving with me, and the thought that those 150 men were lost in the remorseless woods beyond re- covery, or surrounded by savages without hope of escape, then do } u wonder that the natural hardness of the heart was softened, and that I again consigned my case to Him who could alone assist us. The next morning within half-an-hour of the start we met the foragers, safe, sound, ro])ust, loaded, bearing four tons of plaintains. You can imagine what cries of joy these wild children of nature uttered, you can imagine how they flung themselves upon the fruit, and kindled the fires to roast and boil and bake, and how, after they were all filled, we strode back to the camp to rejoice those unfortunates with Mr. Bonny. As I mentally review the many grim episodes and reflect on the marvellously narrow escapes from utter destruction to which we have been subjected during our various journeys to and fro through that immense and gloomy extent of primeval woods, I feel utterly unable to attribute our salvation to any other cause than to a gracious Providence who for some purpose of His own preserved us. All the armies and armaments of Europe could not have lent us any aid in the dire extremity in which we found ourselves in that camp PREFATORY LETTER. and utter uring e camp hetween the Dui and Ilmru ; an army of explorer.s could not liave traced our course to the scene of the hist Struggle had we fallen, for deep, deep as utter ohlivion had we y)een surely buried under the lumuis of the trackless wilds. It is in this humhle and grateful spirit tliat T com- mence this record of the progress of the Expedition from its inception by you to the date when at our feet the Indian Ocean burst into view, pure and )»lue as Heaven when we might justly exclaim *' It is ended ! " What the pul^lic ought to know, that hrve I written ; but there are many things that the snarling, cynical, un])elieving, vulgar ought not lo know, I wi'ite to you and to your friends, and for those who desire more light on Darkest Africa, and for those who can feel an interest in what concerns humanity. My creed has been, is, and will remain so, I hope, to act for the best, think the right thought, and speak the right word, as well as a good motive will permit. AVhen a mission is entrusted to me and my conscience approves it as noble and right, and I give my promise to exert my best powers to fulfil this according to the letter and spirit, I carry with me a Law, that I am compelled to obey. If any associated with me prove to me by their manner and action that this Law is equally incumbent on them, then I recognize my brothers. Therefore it is with unqualified delight tliat I acknowledge the priceless services of my friends Stairs, Jephson, Nelson and Parke, four men whose devotion to their several duties were as perfect as human nature is capable of. As a man's epitaph can only be justly written when he lies in his sepulchre, so I rarely attempted to tell them during the journe}', how much I valued the ready and prompt obedience of Stairs, that earnestness for work that distinguished Jephson, the brave soldierly qualities of Nelson, and the gentle, tender devotion paid by our Doctor to his ailing patients ; but now that the long wanderings are over, and they have bided and laboured ungrudgingly throughout the long period, I feel that my words are poor indeed 6 7^" DARKEST AFRICA. when I need them to express in full my lasting obli- gations to each of them. Concerning those who have fallen, or who were turned back by illness or accident, I will admit, with pleasure, that while in my company every one seemed most capaljle of fulfilling the highest expectations formed of them. I never had a doubt of any one of them until Mr. Bonny poured into my ' ears the dismal story of the rear column. While I possess positive proofs that both the Major and Mr. Jameson were inspired by loyalty, and burning with desire throughout those long months at Yambuya, I have endeavoured to ascertfdn why they did not proceed as instructed by letter, or why Messrs. Ward, Troup and Bonny did not suggest that to move little by little was preferable to rotting at Yambuya, which they were clearly in danger of doing, like the 100 dead followers. To this simple question there is no answer. The eight visits to Stanley Falls and Kasongo amount in the aggregate to 1,200 miles ; their journals, log books, letters teem with proofs that every element of success w\is in and with them. I cannot understand why the five officers, having means for moving, confessedly burning with the desire to move, and animated with the highest feelings, did not move on along our tract as directed ; or> why, believing I was alive, the officers sent my personal bao-oracre down river and reduced their chief to a state of destitution ; or, why they should send European tinned provisions and two dozen bottles of Madeira down river, when there were thirtv-three men sick and hungry in camp ; or, why Mr. Bonny should allow his own rations to be sent down while he was present ; or, why Mr. Ward should be sent down river with a despatch, and an order be sent after him to prevent his return to the Expedition. These are a few of the prol^lems which puzzle me, and to which I have been unable to obtain satisfactory solutions. Had any other person informed me that such things, had taken place I should have doubted them, but I take my information solely from Major Barttelot'ti PBEFATORY LETTER. official despatch (See Appendix). The telegram which Mr. Ward conveyed to the sea requests instructions from the London Committee, but the gentlemen in London reply, " We refer you to Mr. Stanley's letter of instructions." It becomes clear to every one that there is a mystery here for which I cannot conceive a rational solution, and therefore each reader of this narrative must think his own thoughts but construe the whole charitably. After the discovery of ]\Ir. Bonny at Banalya, I had frequent occasions to remark to him that his goodwill and devotion were equal to that shown by the others, and as for bravery, I think he has as much as tlie bravest. Wit;^ his performance of any appcjinted work I never had cause for dissatisftiction, and as he so admirably conducted himself with such perfect and respectful obedience while with us from Banalya to the Indian Sea, the more the mystery of Yambuya life is deepened, for w4th 2,000 such soldiers as Bonny under a competent leader, the entire Soudan could be sub- jugated, pacified and governed. It must thoroughly be understood, however, while reflecting upon the misfortunes of the rear-column, that it is my firm belief that had it been the lot of l^arttelot and Jameson to have been in the place of, say Stairs and Jephson, and to have accompanied us in the advance, they would equally have distinguished themselves ; for such a group of young gentlemen as Barttclot, Jameson, Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, and Parke, at all times, night or day, so eager for and rather loving work, is rtire. If I were to try and form another African State, such tire- less, brave natures would be simply invaluable. The misfortunes of the rear-column were due to the resolu- tions of August 17th to stay and wait for me, and to the meeting with the Arabs the next dav. u hat is herein related about Emin Pasha need not, I hope, be taken as derogating in the slightest from tlie high conception of our ideal. If the reality differs somewhat from it no fault can be attributed to him. While his people were faithful he was e jual to the ideal ; wlien "8 IN DARKEST AFBICA. his soldiers revolted his usefulness as a Governor ceased, just as the cabinet-maker with tools may turn out finished wood-work, but without them can do nothing If the Pasha was not of such gigantic stature as we supposed him to be, he certainly cannot be held responsible for that, any more than he can be held accounta])le for his unmilitary appearance. If the Pasha was a])le to maintain his province for five years, he cannot in justice ])c held answerable for the wave of insanity and the epidemic of turbulence which con- verted his hitherto loyal soldiers into rebels. You will find two special periods in this narrative wherein the Pasha is described with strictest impartiality to each, l)ut his misfortunes never cause us to lose our respect for him, though w^e may not agree wdth that excess of sentiment which distinguished him, for objects so un- worthy as sworn rebels. As an administrator he dis- played the finest qualities ; he was just, tender, loyal and merciful, and afiectionate to the natives who placed themselves under his protection, and no higher and better proof of the esteem with which he was regarded ])y his soldiery can be desired than that he owed his life to the reputation for justice and mildness which he had won. In short, every hour saved from sleep was devoted before his final deposition to some useful purpose conducive to increase of knowledge, improve- ment of humanity, and gain to civilization. You must remember all these things, and l)y no means lose sight of them, even while you read our impressions of him. I am compelled to believe that J\lr. Mounteney Jephson wrote the kindliest report of the events that transpired during the arrest and imprisonment of the Pasha and himself, out of pure aftection, sympathy, and fellow-feeling for his friend. Indeed the kindness and sympathy he entertains for the Pasha are so evident that I T)lavfullv accuse him of lieinsi,' either a Mahdist, Aral)ist, or Eminist, as one would naturally feel inew:*Pl' EMIN PASHA. Prussia, 28th March, 1840, of Jewisli parents, who liad seen service in Turkey, Armenia, Syria, and Ara])ia, in the suite of Ismail Hakki Pasha, once Governor-General of Scutari, and a Mushir of the Empire. Gn the death of his patron he had departed to Niesse, where his mother, sister, and cousins lived, and where he stayed for several months, and thence left for Egypt. He, in GENERAL UOUDON ASD EDWAlil) tiVllSlT/.LER. 11) 11 I ,vho had ruhia, in -General le death lere liis stayed He, in 1875, tluMice travelled to Khartoum, and being a ni('di]i( dcs wire toil) to s peif * not s (.'IISV in tlic GENERAL OOIiDON AND KHARTOUM. 21 rliile 1 uiit of L down tations , His Jordon, »ural)le. ^tter in icli in- mailed tlian he men to ing tlie pending actually jley into been in- le could ere is si mission. 1 evaeua- lat Lord I humane heir iiite ng them. spatches 5ut it is II Gordon )ii of the 1)0 taken e plural), lation in duties as t to him. Iivei'sation ll behalf of 1. " EiiPiire retreat of the European population from 10,000 to 15,000 people, and of the garrison of Kartoum.' * 2. " Yon know best the when and how to elfect tliis." 3. "You \\\\\ bear in mind that the main end (of your Mission) is the evacuation of tlie Soudan."' ■4. " As jou are of opinion it could be done, endeavour to make a I confederation of the native tribes to take the place of Egyptian authority." ■§, 5. " A credit of £100,000 is opened for you at the Finance Departntent." Gordon has succeeded in infusing confidence in the minds of the Egyptian Ministry, who were previously panic-stricken and cried out for the evacuation of Khartoum only. They breathe freer after seeing and liearing him, and according to his own request they invest him with the Governor-Genendship. The firman, given him, empowers him to evacuate the respective territories (of the Soudan) and to withdraw the troops, ci\il otHcials, and such of the inhabitants as wish to leave for Egypt, and if possible, after completing the e^'acuation (and this was an absolute impossibility) he was to establish an organized Government. With these instructions Lord Granville concurs. I am told that it was understood, however, that he was to do what he could — do everything necessary, in fact, if possible ; if not all the Soudan, then he was to proceed to evacuating Khartoum only, without loss of time. But this is not on official record until Mar('h 23rd, 1884, and it is not known whether he ever received this particular telegram. f (Tcneral (lordon proceeded to Khartcnmi on -lanuary -()th, 1884, and arrived in that city on the 18th of the following month. During his journey he sent frecpient • lespatches by telegraph abounding in confidence. JVlr. Po\v(>r, the acting consul and Times correspondent, wiri'd the following despatch — "The p'H)ple (of Khar- toum) are devoted to General ( Jordon, whose design is to save the garrison, and for ever leave the Soudan — as [)eribrcc it must be left — to the Soudanese. ■J % * Xi). 2 claslii's with No. H somewhat. Khartoum and the Soudan arc not synonymous terms. To witlidraw tlu; garrison of Khartoum is an son. find easy task, to evacuate the Soudan is an impossibility for a singU^ persi t Tliis is the only clearly worded desi)atch that 1 have been able to ill the IJlue Book of the period 22 IN DARKEST AFRICA. The English press, which had lieen so wise reapecting the chances of Valentine Baker Paslia, were very much in the condition of the people of Khartoum, that is, devoted to General Gordon and sanguine of his success He had performed such wonders in China — he had laboured so effectually in crushing the slave-trade in the Soudan, he had won the affection of the sullen Soudanese, that the press did not deem it at all improl)a])le that Gordon w4th his white wand and six servants could rescue the doomed garrisons of Senaar, Bahr-el-Ghazal and Equatoria — a total of 29,000 men, besides the civil employees and their wives and families ; and after performing that more than herculean — nay utterly impossible task — establish an organized Government. On February 29th Gordon telegraphs, " There is not much chance of improving, and every chance is getting worse," and on the 2nd of the month " I have no option about staying at Khartoum, it has passed out of my hands." On the 16th Marcli he predicts that before long " we shall l)e blocked." At the latter end of Marcli he telegraphs, " We have provisions for five months, and are hemmed in." It is clear that a serious misunderstanding had occurred in the drawing up of the instructions by Sir Evelyn Baring and their comprehension of them l)y General ( cordon, for the latter expresses himself to the former thus : — " You ask me to state cause and reason of my intention for my staying at Khartoum. I stay at Khartoum because Arabs have shut us up, and will not let us out." iMfantnne public opinion urged on the British Govern- ment the necessity of despatching an Expedition to withdrnw General (lordon from Khartoum. But as it was undeistood between (Jeneral (lordon and Lord Granville that the former's mission was for the purpose of dispensing with the services of British troops in the Soudan, and as it was its declared })()licy not to employ English or Indian troops in that region, the (Jovernment were naturally reluctant to yield to the demand of the i OENEBAL GORDON AND KHARTOUM. 23 ecting much lat is, access e liatl ade in sullen at all md six Senaar, men, imilies ; ilean — cranized \ is not getting 3 option of my t before »f Marc^li ths, and uig liad ions by tliem l)y If to the utcntion hai'toum lis out." (lovern- lition to 3ut as it lid Lord purpose )s in the o employ vernment lid of the public. At last, however, as the clamour increased and Parliament and public joined in affirming that it was a duty on the country to save the ])rave man who had so willingly volunteered to perform such an important service for his country, Mr. Gladstone rose in the H(3use of Commons on the 5th August to move a vote of credit to undertake operations for the relief of (cordon. Two routes were suggested by which the Relief Expedition could approach Khartoum — the short cut across the desert from Suakim to Berl)er, and the other by the Nile. Gordon expressed his preference for that up the Nile, and it was this latter route that the C(mimanding General of the Relief Expedition adopted. On the 18th September, the steamer "Abbas," with Colonel Stewart (Gordon's companion), Mr. Power, the Times correspondent, Mr. Herbin, the P'rench Consul, and a number of Greeks and Egyptians on board — forty- four men all told — on trying to pass by the cataract of Abu Haniid was wrecked in the cataract. The Ara])s on the shore invited them to land in peace, but unarmed. Stewart complied, and he and the two Consuls (Power and Herl)in) and Hassan Effendi went ashore and entered a house, in which they were immediately murdered. (_)n the 17th November, Gordon reports to Lcu-d Wolseley, who was then at Wady Haifa, that he can hold out for forty days yet, that the jNhdidists are to the south, south-west, and east, but not to the north of Khartoum. By Christmas Day, 1884, a great part of the Expedi- tioiiarv Force was assem])led at Korti. So far, the ad- vance of the Expedition liad l)een as rapid as the energy and skill of the General commanding couhl command. Pn)l)ably there never was a force so numerous animated with such noble ardour and passion as this under Lord Wolseley for the rescue of that noble and solitary Englishman at Khartoum. Gn December 30th, a part of General Herbei't Stewart's force moves from Korti towards (iakdul Wells, with 201)9 camels. In 4() hours and 50 ininutes it has reached Gakdul Wells ; 1 1 hours later Sir Herbert Stewart 24 IN DARKEST AFRICA. with all the camels starts on his return journey to Korti, which place was reached January 5th. On the 12th Sir Herbert Stewart was back at Gakdul Wells, and at 2 p.m. of the 1 3th the march towards Abu Klea was resumed. On the 17th, the famous battle of Abu Klea w^as fouoht, resulting in a liard-won victory to the English troops, \\\t\\ a loss of 9 officers and 65 men killed and 85 wounded, out of a total of 1800, while 1100 of the eneni}' lay dead before the square. It ap- pears probable that if the 3000 English sent up the Nile Valley had been with this gallant little force, it would have been a mere walk over for the English aimy. After another battle on the 19th near jMetammeh, Vv'here 20 men were killed and GO wounded of the English, and 250 of the enemy, a village on a gravel terrace near the Nile was occupied. On the 21st, four steamers belonging to Oeneral Gordon appeared. The officer in command stated that they had been lying for some weeks near an island awaiting the arrival of the British column. The 22nd and 23rd were expended by Sir Chas. Wilson in making a reconnaissance, building two forts, changing the crews of the steamers, and preparing fuel. On the 24th. two of the steamers started for Khartoum, carrying only 20 English soldiers. On the 26th two men came aljoard and reported that there had been fighting at Khartoum ; on the 27tli a man cried out from the l)ank that the town had fallen, and that Gordon had been killed. The next day the last news was confirmed by another man. Sir Charlea Wilson steamed on until his steamers became the target of cannon from Omdurman and from Khartoum, besides rities from a distance of from 75 to 200 yards, and turned back only when convinced tliat the sad news was only too true. Steaming down river then at full speed he reached Tamanieb when he halted for the night. From here he sent out two messengers to collect news. One returned saying that he had met an Arab who informed him that Khartoum had been entered on the night of the 26th January through the treachery of Farag Paslia, and that Gordon was killed ; that the Mahdi had on the next day entered the city and had gone into a mos(|ue to re- BATTLE OF ABU KLEA AND NEWS OF GOIWON S DEATH. 25 ECorti, 12th ,, and a was Alui to the I men while It ap- ip the rce, it a) my. where h, and iar the onging nmand lear an . The [son in ing the e 24th. only aljoard rtoum ; e town xt day 'harlea target 3esides turned only •eed he From One formed of the ha, and le next 3 to re- turn thanks and had then retired, and had given the city up to three days' pillage. In Major Kitchener's report we find a summary of the results of the taking of Khartoum. " The massacre in the town lasted some six hours, and about 4000 persons at least were killed. The Bashi Bazouks and white regulars numbering 3327, and the Shaigia irregulars numbering 2330, were mostly all killed in cold blood after they had surrendered and been disarmed." The surviving inhabitants of the town were ordered out, and as they passed through the gate were searched, and then taken to Omdurman where the women were distributed among the Mahdist chiefs, and the men were stripped and turned adrift to pick a living as they could. A (Treek merchant, who escaped from Khartoum, reported that the town was betrayed by the merchants there, who desired to make terms with the enemy, and not by Farag Pasha. Darfur, Kordofan, Senaar, Bahr-el-Ghazal, Khartoum, had been possessed by the enemy ; Kassala soon followed, and throughout the length and breadth of the Soudan there now remained only the Equatorial Province, whose Governor was Emin Bey Hakim — the Faithful Pli\'sician. Naturall , if English people felt that they were in duty bound to rescue their brave countryman, and a gallant General of such genius and reputation as Gordon, they would feel a lively interest in the fate of the last of Gordon's Governors, who, by a prudent Fabian policy, it was supposed, had evaded the late which had l)ofallen the armies and garrisons of the Soudan. It follows also that, if the English were solicitous for the salvation of the garrison of Khartoum, they would feel a propor- tionate solicitude for the fate of a brave officer and his little army in the far South, and that, if assistance could be rendered at a reasonable cost, there would be no difficulty in raising a fund to effect that desirable ol)jc('t. On November IG, 1884, Emin Bey informs Mr. A. M. Maekay, the missionary in Uganda, by letter written at Lado, that "the Soudan has become the theatre of an insurrection ; that for nineteen months he is without news from Khartoum, and that thence he is led t(j ! -^ ■( i 'piri; ! 1 t 26 IN DARKEST AFRICA. I* ' H ^ «!; believe that the town has been taken by the insurgents, or that tlie Nile is blocked " ; but he says : — " Whatever it proves to be, please inform your correspondents and thron^h them the Egyptian Government that to tliis day we are well, and that we proi)ose to hold out until help may reach us or until we perish." A second note from Emin Bey to the same nnssionary, on the same date as the preceding, contains the fol- lowing : — " The Bahr-Ghazal Province being lost and Lupton Bey, the povornor, carried away to Kordot'an, we are unable to inform our Government of what happens here. For nineteen months we have had no communication from Khartoum, so I suppose the river is blocked up," " Please therefore inform the Egyptian Government by some means tliat we are well to this day, but greatly in need of help. We shall hold out until we obtain such help or until we perish." To Mr. Charles H. Allen, Secretary of the Anti- Slavery Society, Emin Bey writes from Wadelai, De- cenil)er 31, 1885, as follows : — "Ever since the month of May, 1883, we have been cut oif from all communication with the world. Forgotten, and abandoned by the Government, we have been compelled to make a virtue of necessity. Since the occupation of the Bahr-Ghazal we have lx;en vigorously attacked, and I do not know how to describe to you the admirable devotion of my black troops throughout a long war, which for them at least, has no advantage. Deprived of the most necessary things for a long time without any pay, my men fought valiantly, and when at last hunger weakened them, when, after nineteen days of incredible privation and sutTorings, their strength was exhausted, and when the last torn leather of the last boot had been eaten, then they cut away through the midst of their enemies and siicceeded in saving themselves. All this hardship was undergone without the least arriPre-pemee, without even the hope of any appreciable reward, ])rompted only by their duty and the desire of showing a proper valour before their enemies." This is a noble record of valour and military virtue. I rememljer the appearance of this letter in the Times, and the impression it made jn myself and friends. It was only a few days after the appearance of this letter that we began to discuss ways and means of relief for the wiiter. The following letter also impressed me very strongly. It is written to Dr. R. W. Felkin on the same date, December 31, 1885. * * Hi )|i Id III " You will probably know through the daig T>apers tha: poor Lupton, li ' LETTERS FROM EMIN BEY IN 1%S^-Q. 27 nftcr having bravely held the Bahr-Ghazal Province was compelled, tlirough the treachery of his own people, to surrender to the emissaries of the late Madhi, and was carried by tliem to Kordofaij." " My province and also myself I only saved from a like fate by a stratagem, but at last I was attacked, and many losses in both men and ammunition were the resiilt, until 1 delivered such a heavy blow to the reliels at Itimo, in Makraka. that compelled them to leave me alone. Before this took place they informed us that Khartoum tell, in January, ]885, and that Gordon was killed." " Naturally on account of these occurrences 1 have been compelled to evacuate our more distant stations, and withdiaw our soldiers and their families, still hoping that our Government will send us helji. It seems, however, that 1 have deceived myscll, for since April, 1883, 1 have received no news of any kind from the north." " The Government in Khartoum did not hehavewell tons. Before they evacuated Fashoda, they ought to have remembered that Government officials were living here (Equatorial Provinces) who had i)erforraed their duty, and had not deserved to be left to their fate without more ado. Even if it were the intention of the Government to deliver us over to our fate, the least they could have done was to have released us from our duties ; we should then have known that we were considered to have become valueless." " Anyway it was necessary for ns to seek some way of escape, and in the first i)lace it was urgent to send news of our existence in Egypt. With this object in view I went south, after having made the necessary arrangements at Lado, and came to Wadelai." Hi * ll> * K< >l< " As to my future ])lans, I intend to hold this country as long as possible. 1 hope that when our letters arrive in Eg\ pt, in seven or eiglit months, a reply will be sent to me via Khartoum or Zanzibar. If the Egyptian Government still exists in the Soudan we naturally expect them to send us help. If, however, the Soudan has been evacuated, I shall take the whole of the people towards the south. I shall then send the whole of the Egyjitian and Khartoum othcials r/ct Uganda or Karagwe to Zanzibar, but shall remain myself with my black troo))s at Kabba- Rege's until the (iovernnient inform me as to their wishes." This is very clear tluit Emiii Paslia at this time proposed to relieve himself of the Egyptian ofhcials, and that he himself ony intended to remain until the Eoyptian Government could (tonmiunicate to him its wishes. Those " wishes " were that lie should abandon his province, as they were unable to maintain it, and take advantage of the escort to leave Africa. In a letter written to JMr. ^lackay dated July 6tli, 1886, Emin says : — " In the first place believe me that I am in no hurry to break away from here, v^r to leave those countries in which I have now laboured for ten years." ♦ ♦*♦♦* " All my people, but esi^ecially the negro troops, entertain a strong |9Bi M**^ ■«'»'■ ■ ■ 28 IN DARKEST AFRICA. objection against a march to the south and thence to Egypt, and mean to remain here until they can be taken north. Meantime, if no danger overtakes us, and onr ammunition holds out for some time longer, I mean to follow your advice and remain here nntil help comes to us from some quarter. At all events, you may rest assured that we ■will occasion no disturbance to you in Uganda." " I shall determine on a march to the coast only in a case of dire necessity. There are, moreover, two other routes before me. One from Kabba-llega's direct to Karagwe ; the other v!a Usongora to the stations at Tanganika. I hope, however, that I shall have no need to make use of either." " My people have become impatient through long delay, and are anxiously looking for help at last. It would also be most desirable that some Commissioner came here from Eurojje, either direct by the Masai route, or from Karagwe via, KabbaRega's country, in order that my people may actually see that there is some interest taken in them. I would defray with ivory all expenses of such a Ccmimission." " As I once more repeat, I am ready to stay and to hold these countries as long a" I can until help comes, and I beseech you to do what you can to hasten the arrival of such assistance. Assure iNIwanga that he has nothing to fear from me or my people, and that as an old friend of Mtesa's I have no intention to trouble him." In the above letters we have Emin Bey's views, wherein we gather that his people are loyal — that is they are obedient to his commands, but that none of them, judging from the tenour of the letters, express , any inclination to return to Egypt, excepting ^he Eg}^ptians. He is at the same time pondering upe u the routes by which it is possible to retreat — elsewhere he suggests the Monbuttu route to the sea ; in these letters he hints at Masai Land, or through Unyoro, and west of Uganda to Usongora, and thence to Tan- ganika 1 If none of the black troops intended to follow him, he certainly could not have done so with only the Egyptian officials and their families. From the following letters from the Consul-Oeneral, F. Holmwood, to Sir Evelyn Baring, dated September 25th and September 27th, we gather Mr. Holmwood's views, who, from his position and local knowledge, was very competent to furnish information as to what could be done in the way of the proposed relief. " In Emin's letters to me he only reports his situation up to 27th February, 188G, when he proposed evacuating his province by detach- ments, the first of which he proposed to despatch at the close of the rains toward the end of July; but both Dr. Junker and Mr. Mackay inform nie EM IN BEY'S VIEWS OF II J S PEOPLE. 29 the leneval, ml)er wood s ledge, what that they have since heard from Eiiiin tliat tlie majority of the 4000 loyal Egyptian subjects who have remained faithful to Egypt throughout, and h ive supported him in the face of tlio constant attacks from the Mahdi's adherents, aggravated by an imminent danger of starvation, refuse to leave their country, and he had therefore detcrniired, if he could possibly do so, to remain at his post, and continue to protect Egyptian interests till r jlief arrived." ****** " Wore Uganda freed from this tyrant (Mwanga), the Equatorial Province, even should the present elementary system of communication remain unmoditied, would be witliin eight weeks' ])ost of Zanzibar, and a safe depot on the Albert Nyanza would provide a base for any further operations that might be decided urwrn." " Dr. Junker states that the country to the east of the Ripon Fallf** has proved impracticable, and that Emin has lost many trdops in e)i- deavouring to open communication through it. If such be the case the alternative line by which Dr. Fischer tried to relieve Junker, and which I believe he still recommends, could not be relied on for turning Uganda and its eastern dependency, and the well-known route vhi Uganda would be the only one available tor an Expedition of moderate size." " As far as I am able to judge, without making any special calculation, I consider that 1200 porters would be the smallest number that v.-.rald suffice, and a well-armed guard of at least 500 natives would be necessary." * * * * * * " General Matthews, whom I had consulted as to the force necessary for the safety of the Expedition, is of opinion that I have formed far too low an estimate, but after weighing the testimony of many experienced persons acquainted with Uganda, I must adhere to my opinion that 500 ll,ltl^•o troops armed with modern rifles and under experienced persons, Mould, )f supplemented by the irregular force, fully suffice." An American officer of the Khedivial Government writes to Mr. Portal, and suggests that communication with Emin might be opened by the Zanzibar Arabs, but that to send stores and ammunition to him was im- possible ; that the Arabs might manage for his passage, though his safest line of retreat was westward to reach the Congo. Mr. Fred Holm wood, in his despatch to the Foreign Office of September 23rd, 1886, writes that, "had it not been for the danoerous attitude of the Kino; of Uganda, the question of relieving Emin would have l)een merely one of expenditure to be settled at Cairo ; but under present circumstances, many other serious considerations are involved in it which will have to be referred to Her Majesty's Government. * This route would be through Masai Land. ■■^TiaW^'MMi 80 IN D AUK EST AFRICA. " I would call attention to the at-eount contained in Mr. Mackay's letter regarding the alternative route to Wadelai which Dr. Fischer endeavoured to take and, I believe, still recommends. If this statement be correct, any attempt to turn Uganda or its Eastern dependency by this unexplored line would pro])ably fail." Mr. A. M. Mackay writes from Uganda, May 14th, 1886.— " From Dr. Junker's letter you will have seen that Emin Bey has had the good fortune to hi v^e secured the loyalty of the people he governs. Eriiin seems to have learned Gordon's secret of securing the afiection of his subjects, and has bravely stuck to them. There can be no doubt at all but that had he been anxious to leave he would with a few hundred of his soldiers have easily made a dash for the coast either through the Masai Land or this way, asking no permi.ssion from Mwanga (King of Uganda) or anyone else. He knows that there is no power here able to stop him. In fact years ago he wrote me that it would be nothing to him to storm this wretched village and drive off the cattle."' " But what would be the fate of thousands of people who have remained loyal on tlie Upper Nile ? Dr. Junker sjieaks of thousands. They do not want to be taken out of their own fertile country, and taken to the deserts of Upper Egypt.' " Dr. Emin is on all hands allowed to be a wise and able Governor. But he cannot remain for ever where he is, nor can he succeed himself, even should the Mahprove. Funds provided. Business urgent. Come pronii)tly. Eeply. " MACKINNON." A reply was sent from St. Johnsbury, Vermont, for thus far the lecture tour had reached, as follows : — • Just received Moi.'iay's cal)lep;riim. Many thanks. Everything,' all right. Will sail per Kuh-r -t a.m. Wednesday morning. If good weather and barring accidents arrive 2i2nd Deceml>er, Southampton. It is only one month's delay after all. Tell tlic authorities to prepiro Holmwood (Consul (ieneral) Zanzibar, aud Seyyid Barghash (Prince of Zaiizibar). Be.st complimen s to you. " Stanley." My agent was in despair — the audiences were so kind — the receptions were ovations, but arguments and entreaties were of no avail. I arrived in England the day preceding Christmas, and within a few hours Sir William Mackinnon and myself were discussing the Expedition. Uf course, and without the least shade of doubt, I was firmly convinced that the Congo River route was infinitely the best and safest, provided that I should get my flotilla of wiiaie-boats, and the permission of King Leopold to pass through his teriiiory with an armed force. I knew a route from the East Coast, and was ecpuUly ac(piainted with that from the West Coast. From the furthest point reached by me in 1870, along the East (bast road, the distance was l)ut 100 miles to Lake All)ert — from Yambuya Rapids the distance was 322 geographical miles in an air line to the lake. Yet to the best of my judgment the Congo route was preferable We should have abundance of water — which was so scanty and bad along the Eastern I'oute ; food there must be ~ it was natural to expect it from my knowledge that unsurpassed fertility such as the Upper ■1 ~'^ ''A AN EMIN RELIEF FUND RAISED. 35 Congo regions possesses would luive been long ago discovered by the aborigines, whereas we knew from Thomson, Fischer, and Hannington's experiences that food and water was scanty in Masai Land ; then again, that wholesale desertion so frecjuent on the East Coast would be avoided on the West C^oast, Yet notwithstanding they admitted that I might l»e light, it was the opinion of the Committee that it would be best to adopt the Eastern route. " Very good, it is jx;i fectly immaterial to me. Let \is decide on tlie East Coast route, via Msalala, Knra^we, Aiikori, and Unyoro. If joii hear of some hard-fighting, I look to yon that you will defend the absent. If I could dro}) this ammunition in Emin's camp from a balloon I certainly would do so, and avoid coming in contact with those warlike natives, liut it is decided that the means of defence must be put into Emin's hautls, and you have entrusted me with the escort of it. So be it."' A Relief Fund was raised, the sul)scriptions to which were as follows :— ^ Sir William Mackinnon, Bart. . . 2,000 Peter Mackinnon, Esq 1,000 John Mackinnon, Es(| 300 Baroness Burdett-Coutts .... 100 W. Burdett-Coutts, Esij 400 James 8. Jameson, Es(| 1,000 Countess de Xoailles 1,000 Peter Denny, Es([., of Duml)arton . 1,000 Henry Johnson Younger, Es(|., of the Scottish Geographical Society . . 500 Alexander L. Bruce, Es(|., of the Scottish Geographical Society . . 500 Messrs. Gi'ay, Dawes k Vo., of London 1,000 Duncan Mac Neil, Es(j 700 James F. Hutton, Es(j., of Manchester 250 Sir Thos. Fowell Buxton . . . . 250 James Hall, Es(|., of Argvleshire . . 250 N. Mc.Michael, Es(]., of Glasgow . . 250 Royal (Jeographical Society, London . 1,000 Egyptian Government .... 10,000 £21,500* * See Ap))endix for full statement of Receipts and E.vpeuditurc. 5 36 JN DARKEST AFRICA. '' -i;i In order to increase the funds and create a provision aijainst continojencies, I volunteered to write letters from Africa, which the Committee might dispose of to the press as they saw fit, and accept whatever moneys that might receive as my contribution to it. The estimate of time required to reach Emin Pasha, after a careful calculation, was formed on the basis that whereas I travelled in 1874-5 a distance of 720 miles in 103 days, therefore : — 1st route. — By Masai Lanl, march to Wadelai and return to coast 14 months. Eoserve for delays 4 months = 18 months. 2nd route. — By Msalala, Karagwe, Ankori, and Usongora to Lake Albert. Land march to and return 16 mouths, delays 4 months - 20 months. 3rd route. — Via Congo. Zanzibar to Congo . . 1 mth. = 1st April, 1887 Overland route to Stanley Pool 1 ,, = 1st May „ By steam up the Congo . 1^ „ = 15th June „ Halt 25th „ Yambuya to Albert Nyanza. 3 mths = 2Jth Se])t., 1887 Halt 9th Jan., 1888 Albert Nyanza to Zanzibar,) o land march Delays 31 = 8th Sept. = 18 months. 4' ^1 .1 The actual time, however, occupied by the Expedition is as follows : — Arrive at Congo ..... „ „ Stanley Pool .... „ „ Yambuya .... Halt at Yambuya .... Albert Nyanza ..... Return to Fort Bodo .... Halt while collecting convalescents The Albert Nyanza, 2ud time Halt nniil ...... Fort Bodo again ..... Banalya 90 nn'les from Yambuya Fort Bodo again ..... Albert Nyanza, 3rd time Halt near Albert Nyanza until March to Zanzibar, 1400 miles, G months. So that we actually occupied a little over Zanzibar to the Albert Nyanza, and from the Nyanza to the Indian Ocean. Halt at the Albert . . . 18th Mar., 1887 21st Apr. >J 15th June jj 28th „ a 13th Dec. yy 8th Jan., 1888 2nd Apr. jj 18th „ 99 25th May a 8th June ft 17th Aug. it 20th Dec. tt 2Gth Jan., 1889 8th May .•' Gth Dec. )) lOi months from „ li ., 18 Ai in d.. or( PURCHASING GOODS FOR THE EXPEDITION. .37 I was formally informed by letter hould the Expedition desire it, we would facilitate the recruiting of Bangala; we are very |)leased with the latter, as they are excellent soldiers, and do not fear tlie Arabs like the Zanzibaris. " You will have remarked that the official documents, pul)lished this week in IJerlin, limit the territory of Zau/d)ar to a narrow "strip of Ian I along the seashore. Beyond this strip the entire territory is German. If t le Oermans allow the Expedition to cross their territory, the Zanzi- baris would bo precisely as on the Congo, on foreign soil. " With kind regards, I am, dear Mr. Stanley, " Yours very truly, " COMTE DE BORCHGUAVE." Tliat this was not a light matter to Ite hastily decided will be evident by the following note which was sent me by Sir William Mackinnon : — " Western Club, Glasgow, " My dear Stanley, " '^«»w«'-2/ 4^/^ 1887. ■■' I had a pleasant phort letter from the King showing how anxious he is the Congo route .should be taken, and how unwilling to allow a break in the continuity of your connection with the Congo State, a< he considers you a ])illar of the State. He asks me to banish (?) any diver- gent sentiments, and get all pcarties to agree to the Congo route. I have explained fully all that has been done and is doing, and the difficulties in the way of cancelling existing engagements, and get the authorities, home and Egyptian and the Sultan of Zanzibar, to acquit see in making such a change I also mentioned the great additional charge involved by sending 600 men, even if the Sultan should consent to their going from Zanzibar to the Congo and bringing them back. " I promised, however, to ascertain whether all interested in the present arrangements would agree in taking the Congo route. In my diary of January 5tli I find written briefly the heads of businesses despatched this day. As suggested by Mackinnon, who has been written to by King Leopold upon the subject of the Congo route, I saw Sir Percy Anderson, and revealed the King's desire that the Expedition should proceed via Congo. I was requested to state what advantages the Congo route gave, and replied : — THE KlNd OF THE liELGIAXS AXD THE CONGO ItOl'TE. 45 l.st. Certainty of reju'liing Eniiii. 2ik1. Transport up the Congo River by state steamers to a point 320 geographical miles from Lake All)ert. 3r(l. Allaying suspicion of Germans that underlying our acts were political motives. 4th. Allaying alleged fears of French Ciovernment that our Expedition would endanger the lives of French Missionaries. 5th. If French Missionaries were endangered, then English Missionaries would certainly share their fate. C)th. Greater immunity from the desertion of the Zanzil)aris who were fickle in the neighbourhood of Arab settlements. Lord Iddesleigh writes me that the French ambassador has been instructed to inform him that if the Eniin Pasha Relief Expedition proceeds by a route east of the Victoria Nyanza it will certainly endanger the lives of Uganda. He suggests that I of Admiral Sullivan Admiralty suppl}'ing Congo. He said if be easy, if not, ini- tlieir Missionaries in consider this question. Visited Admiralty, inquired respecting the possibility of vessel to carry Expedition to (lovernment ordered it would possible. Wrote to the King urging him to acquaint me how i'dv his assistance would extend in transport on the Upper Congo. January Sth. — Received letters from the King. He lays claim to my services. Offers to lend whole of his naval stock for transport except such as may ])e necessary for uses of administration. Wired to Mackinnon that I felt uneasy at the clause ; that it was scarcely compatible with the urgency required. Colonel de Winton wrote to the same effect. Effects of Expedition are arriving by many cwts. De Winton worked with me until late in the nidit. January dth, 1887. — Colonel J. A. Grant, Colonel Sir F. de Winton, and myself sat down to consider His 43 IN DARKEST AFRICA. Majesty's letter, and finally wrote u reply re(|uestiii^ lie would graeiously respond with «j!;reater definitencss respecting «]nantity of transport and time for which transport vessels will be granted us so many matters depend upon (piick reply, such as hire of Soudanese, deter'tion of mail steamer iov shipment of ammunition, etc. We therefore send special messenger Jaiui'irj/ lOt/i, 1887 — De Winton visited Foreign Office and was promised as soon as possible to attend to the detention of mail steamer and Government transport rountl the Cape of Good Hope. Messrs. (h-ay, Dawes & Go write Postmaster-( General willing to detain Zanzibar mail steamer at Aden to wait Ndvarlno, which sails from London on the 20tli with the ammunition and officers. I overtake Navarlno at Suez after settling matters of Expedition in Egypt. January Vlth, — Answer arrived last night. Meeting was called by Honourable Guy Dawnay, Colonel Sir Lewis Pellv, Colonel Sir F. de Wintxm and self The answer as regards Congo route Ijeing satisfactory was decided upon, and this has now been adopted unani- mously. Was notified at 2 p.m by the Earl of Iddesleigh that he would see me at G p.m. But at 3.13 p.m. the Eail died suddenly from disease of the heart. Januarn I3t/f. — Foreign office note received from Sir J. Pauncefote transmitting telegram from Sir E. Baring, also letters concerning Admiralty transport. No help from Admiralty. Cloods arriving fast. Will presently fill my house. Went down with Baroness Burdett-Coutts to Guildhall, arriving there 12.45 p.m. I received Freedom of City of London, and am called youngest citizen. Afterwards lunched at Mansion House, a distinguished party present, and affair most satisfactory. Telegraphed to Brussels to know if Friday conveniei.t to King. Eeply, " Yes at 9.30 a.m." Jauwiry 14M.-- -Crossed over Channel last night towards Brussels via Ostend to see King Leopold. Saw ,Jt rnErAiiAToiiY details of we HELIEF EXPEDITIOX. 47 ■^tiiiji; lie uiteiu'ss • which matters ulaneso, unition, Foreign tteud to L'ansport General Vden to on the )vei'take peditioii Meetino; onel 8ir If The loiy was unani- igh thfit the Earl om Sir Baring, ,o help ouse. ildhall, of Citv erwards party veniei.t night Saw n King and gave my farewell. He was very kind. Left for London in evening at 8 p.m. Telegram arrived from Sandringham re(|uesting visit. January \bfh. — Sir Percy Anderson rc( [nested inter- view. Mr. Joseph Thomson at this late hour has heen writing to Geographical Society wanting to go with Ex{)edition. Arraniied with Ingham to collect Conij|;o carriers. He goes out hh(»T-tly. Telegraphed Zanzibar to recall rice carriers from Mpwapwa. This will cost 2,500 rupees more. Wrote some days ago to the donor of the Peace Mission Steamer on the Gongo recjuesting '.<)an of her for the relief of Emin Pasha. Received the following quaint reply : — " Dear Mr. Stanley, " I'^^^'^«' Jnnwtr>i Voth, 1887. " I liave much regard for you persoually, althongli I caniKjt, dare not, sanction all your acts. " I am vory Horry if I cannot give as?cnt to your request ; but I fully believe you will be no sufferer by the circumstance of not having the s.s. Peace. Yesterday I was able to come to a decision. "Mr. Baynes, of the Baptist Missionary Society, Holborn, will, lie hopes, make to you any communication he judges proper. If you have any reverential regard for 'the Man of Sorrows,' the 'King of Peace' nuiy He mercifully preserve and save your party. " I have no doubt of the safety of Eniin — till his work is done. I believe he will be brought througli this trial in ])erfect safety. God seems to have given you a noble soul (covers for the moment, if on jour sad sin and mistakes), and I should like you should ' repent and believe the Gospel ' — with real sense, and live henafter in happiness, light, and joy— for ever. Here delay in you is more dangerous than delay for Emin. " Your faithful friend, " (Signed) RcBERT Authington." January 16/A.— Colonel J. A. Grant offered to arrange with Mr. J. S. Keltie, Editor of Nature, to discuss Mr. Thomson's offer. Letters accumulate by scores. All hands employed ansvverinfT. January 17th. — Wrote Sir Percy Anderson would call Wednesday 2 p.m. Correspondence increases. Mr. Joseph Thomson's offer discussed. Mv. J. S. * I l.'tmft ^ft WM Mi * Mt'ftl *1 -!*.' . '^inmiiiii^tr^pnt-itin nM fc' i n i-'l 48 7iV l)AllKKl:iT AFRICA. Keltie is to write to him privately — niittee. ArmiiQ-ed witli Cr. S. JMuckeiizie deuisiijii of com- a]>out Zanzibar matters. He despatched two telegrams. (General Brat'keiihurv wrote al)out coal beiiiu' furnished re- quiring" Treasury sanction. Jaiiaaru \St/i. — Worked off morning-'s l»usiness. Travelled to Sandringham with Colonel de Winton to see His Royal Highness. With African map before us gave short lecture to their Royal Highnesses respecting route proposed to reach Emin Pasha. Had a verv attentive audience. Jaiiuan/ Idt/i. — Sir William ]\Iackinnon mustered liii^ friends at the Burlington Hotel at a farewell ])an(juet to me. Have said " fjood-bve " to a host of friends to-day. Janmu'i/ 20f/i. — The s.s. Navariiio sailed this afternoon carrying goods of Expedition and officers. Lieutenant Stairs, Captain Nelson, and Mr. ]\Iounteney Jephson. Mr. AVilliam Bonny started from my rooms with black boy Baruti to Fenchurch Station at 8 a.m. Arriving there he leaves Baruti after a while and proceeds to Tower of London ! He savs that returnino; to station at 2 p.m. he found boat had gone. He then went to Gray, Dawes & Co., shipping agents, and is discouraged to find that the matter cannot be mended. Baruti found deserted in Fenchurch Station, very hungry and cold. Colonel J. A. Grant finds him and brings him ^o me. JaiLuavj/ 2\st. — Despatch Mr. Bonny by rail to Ply- mouth to overtake a steamer bound for Lidia and instruct him to debark at Suez with bov and await me. Left London at 8.5 p.r. . for Egypt. Quite a crowd collected to t?ike a final shake of the hands and to Itid me a kindly "God speed." CHAPTER 11. EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR. Surpoon T. 11. Parko — Yimvs oi" Sir Evelyn Barinp, Xubav Paslia, Pro- ti'SHor Schweinfurtli and Dr. Junker on the Kiiiin belief Ex])e{liti()n — Details relating to Eniin Pa.slia and his Province— General Grent'ell and the aninmnition— Dreakfast with Khedive Tewtik : message to luiiin Pasha — Dejjarture for Zanzibar — Deseription of Mombasa town — Visit to the Hullan of Zanzibar — Letter to Emin Pasha sent by messenger through Uganda— Arrangements with Tijipoo Til) — Emin Paslia's Ivory — Mr. Mackenzie, Sir John Pender and Sir James Ander.son's assistance to the lielief Expedition. January 27tli, 1887. — Arrived at Alexandria (> a.m. Suroeoii T. H. Parke of the A.M.D. came to mv hotel and applied for the position of surgeon to tlie Ex])e- dition. It was the one vacanev not vet filled to niv satisfaction. I considered it a (lod.send, though 1 appeared distant, as 1 had had two most unplea.sant experiences with medical men, both of whom were crotchetty, and inconsistent in England. An extremely handsome vouno; iientleman — diiiident s(mie\vhat l)ut veiy prepossessing. To try if he were in earnest I said. "If vou care to follow me to Cairo, T will talk further with you. I have not the time to argue with you here." Left Alexandria at !0 a.m. for Cairo. At the station I met Sir Evelyn I^aring, whom I had read of in Cordon's iournals. We drove to Sir Evelvn's house and was told in his strai<>litforward and clearest mannei" that there was a hitch somewhere. The Khedive and Nuhar Pasha, the Prime Minister, were doid)tfuI as to the wisdom of the Conuo route. Professor Schwcnnfurth and Dr. -lunker hadhoth been struck with consternation, and l)y their manner had expressed that the idea was absurd. VOL. I. E 1«87. Jan. "-'7 Alexan (Iriii. 50 I^ DARKEST AFRICA. 1887 Jan. 27 Cairo. tl Jl^i f "w ten in E ; ''*i ^™,."'" «""l< *'">* funli and Junker On tl,e if ^ef T '^T"' ^^''"■^"'- Colonel James Au^mstus Gr., f *^"™'"'t'*« we liave Colonel Sir Frand" de WntoTTr"T! '-^ '^'P'^'^''- SflWEO.V I'AUKIC, A.M.D, Political Aceiit .,f 7, -1 IWnay ..f the vi (.ffi «"■ '^ , V" , """""''"I'l-' reakfaRt Nubar Pasha conversed upon many things, principally Egypt, Soudan, Afri(;a and Gordon, Of Gordon he is clearly no admirer. He accredits the loss of the Soudan to him. His views of Baker were that he was a fighter — an eager pioneer — a man of great power. Showed map to Nubar after breakfast. He examined the various routes carefully, and' was convinced the Congo route was the best. He proposes to write instructions to Emin to return to Egypt on the ground that Egypt cannot afford to retain the Soudan under present circumstances. He permits us the use of the Egyptian Flag as the banner of the Expedition. He says he would like to see Emin return with as much ivory as possible and bringing his Makrakas with him. Should any ivory be brought out he will lay claim to «ome of tiie money on behalf of the Egyptian Govern- ment — because of the £ 10,000 furnished by it. Uniforms are being ordered for Emin Pasha and principal officers, for which the Relief Fund will have to pay. Rank and pay due to each officer assured. I saw Schwemfurth and Junker, who have been con- sidered experts here, and I have had a long and interesting conversation, the pith of which I here embody. Schweinfurth and Junker, it seems, had formed the curious idea that because the Expedition was to be armed with several hundred Remingtons and a machine gun of the latest invention, it was to be an offensive force conducted after strict military rules. If thev had reflected jit all the verv title of the Expedition ought to have warned them that they w-ere astray ; the (diaracter of the people who subscribed the major portion of the fund ought to have still more assured them that their conception of the Expedition was wide of the mark. It is the relief of Emin Pasha that is the object of the Expedition, the said relief rn^m ^H ^ ^9 ■3m •^j^^^^^i CONVEBSATION WITH DE. JUNKER. fon.sisting of ammunition in .sufficient (quantity to enable him to withdraw from liis dangerous position in Central Africa in safety, or to hold his own if he decides to do so for such length of time as he may see fit. Considering the quality of the escort, being mainly Zanzibaris or freed slaves, it would l)e rash to expect too much frcmi them. It is already known in Zanzi])ar that Uganda is hostile, that Mwanga massacred some sixty of the followers of Bishop Hannington, that the Masai route has its dangers, that Karagwe is tri])utary to Mwanga, that the Wahha are numerous and aggressive, that Ruanda has never yet been penetrated, that bevond a certain line whether on the Masai route or the Karagwe' route there is certain danger ; and no matter with what cheerfulness they would assert at Zanzibar their readiness to defy all and every belligerent, African travellers remember how weak they are proved to be when in actual presence of danger. Assuming, however, that this band of 600 Zanzibaris were faithful, consider their inexperience of these new rilies, their wild, aimless, harmless firing, their want of discipline and tone, their disposition to be horrified at sight of the effects of fighting — remem])er that in reality they are only porters and do not pretend to be warriors — and you will see how very unequal such men are to the duties of defending munitions of war in the face of an enemy. It was only by stratagem that I se(;ured their services for the desperate work of dis- covering the issue of the great river along which we had travelled with Tippu-Tib, when that now famous Arab deserted me in mid-Africa. It was oidy that there were no other means of escape that enaV)led me with their help to obtain a quiet retreat from savage Ituru. In many other instances they proved that when menaced with instant death they could ])e utilized to assist in the preservation of their own lives ; but to expect them to march faithfully forward to court the dangers of fighting with the seductions of Unyamwezi and Zanzibar in their rear would be too much. In this Expedition we cannot turn aside as formerly in presence 1887. Jan. 2^. Cairo. *' 54 IN DARKEST AFItlCA. 1887. Jan. 28. Cairo. of H pronounced liostility und .seek more peaceful countries ; but our ol)jective point must be reached, and risk must be run, and the ammunition must be de- posited at the feet of Emin Pasha. Therefore to arm these people with Remingtons or mac-hine guns is not enough — you must cut off their means of retreat, allow no avenue of escape — then they will stand together like men, and we may expect the obje(^t ot the Expedition to be attained, even if we have now and again to meet bows and spears or guns. KeiTcardino' Emin Pasha m\' information is various. From Dr. Junker I learn that Emin Pasha is tall,* rhin and ex(;eedinolv short-si";hted ; that he is a great linguist, Turkish, Arabic, (German, French, Italian and English being familiar to him ; to these languages may be a(hled a few of the African dialects. He does not seem to have impressed Junker with his fighting ([ualities, though as an administrator, he is sagacious, tactful and prudent. His long isolation seems to have discouraged him. He snys, " Egypt does not care for us and has forgotten us ; Europe takes no interest in what we do." He is German l)y birth, and is a])out fcjrty- seven years old. His force is distributed among eight stations, fr Fehi'uari/ \st. — b , Accompanied him to I expect my men frcmi Wady Haifa to l)e here tliis afternoon. They will he armed. e<[uipped and rationed at the Citadel, and on Thnrsday will acctmipany me to Suez. The Ndvurino is supposed to arrive at Suez the day following, when we will emhiirk and be off. Received telegrams from London. Reports from a Avell-known person at C^airo has reached newspaper'-^ that Emin Pasha had fought his way through Uganda after some desp ''ate "^ iigj^les, and that the Egyptian v difficulty in wa}' of Expedition. ivQ unknown in CViro. Sn- r.velyn Baring at 10.45 a.m. Kheciiv.3 Tewfik. His Highness is most amiable and good-looking. Fine palace within, abundance of room, a host ol attendants, &c. Am invited to breakfast with Jvhedive at noon to-morrow. Taken later by Sir Evelyn to General Grenfell's office respecting suggestion made to me last night, at General Stephenson's by Valentine Baker Pasha, that I must assure myself that the Remington ammunition furnished ))y Egyptian Government was sound, as his experience of it was that 50 per cent, was bad. " You must think then," said he, " if the ammunition is so poor already what it will l)e about a year hence when you meet Emin, after humidity of tropics." General Grenfell said he had already tested the ammunition, and would make another trial, since Valentiiie Baker Pasha entertained such an opinion of it. Fehraary 2nd. — Breakfast with Khedive Tewffik. He protests his patriotism, and loves his country. He is certainlv most unaffected and trenial. Before leaving Khedive, the following Firman or High Order, was given to me open with the English translation. Translation. Copji of a Hi(]h Arabic OrdiT to Emin Pasha, dated St/i, G-amad Aical 1304, (Ut Fehruan/, 1887. No. 3). " AVe have already thanked you and your officers for the plucky and su(;cessful defence of the Egyptian LETTER FliOM THE KHEDIVE TO EMIN PASHA. 57 Equatorial provinces entrusted to your charge, and t'oi- the firmness you have shown witli your fellow-ofiicers under your command. And we therefore have rewarded vou in raisini"' vour rank to that of Lewa Pasha (Brigadier-! ieneral). We have also approved the ranks you thought necessary to oive to the officers under vour (charge. As I have alreadv written to you on the 29 November, 1886, No. 31, and it must have reached you with other documents sent by His Excellency Nubar Pasha, President of the Council of Ministers. And, since it is our sincerest desire to relieve ' .u with your officers and soldiers from the difficult position you are in, our Government have made up their mir^d in the manner by which you may be relieved with officers and soldiers from vour troubles. And as a mission for the relief has been f(^ -med under the command of Mr. Stanley, the famous and .vperienced African Explorer, whose reputation is well known throughout the world ; and as he intends to set out on his Expedition with all the necessary provisions for you so that he may jjring you here with officers and men to Cairo, by the route which Mr. Stanley may think proper to take. Consequently we have issued this High Order to you, and it is sent to you by the hand of Mr. Stanley to let you know what has been done, and as soon as it will reach vou, I cliaro;e you to convev mv })est wishes to the officers and men — and you are at full liberty with regard to your leaving for Cairo or your stay tliere with officers and men. Cur Government has given a decision for paying }'our salaries with that of the officers and men. Those who wish to stav there from the officters and men they may do it on their own responsiljility, and they may not expect any assistance frlufiy, dips sheer (h)wn into deep water, with timber floated ahmo- l)ase of ])luti'. and lono-armed derricks on edu'e of blutf, steamers mii»lit be unloaded and loaded with ease. Cocoa-nut palms abundant, (iood view of sea fnmi it. If Mombasa becomes an English port — as I hope it will shortly — the best position of new town would be alonu' face of blutf Irontino- seaward 1887. Feb. V:. Allen. 60 y.V 1> A UK EST AFRICA. Fell. '11. Zauzibnr (»n islniid just wlicrc old I'ortii^uoso port is; a li^lit I'jiilwnv and sonic diaui^lit muk's would laud on train all ^oods from liarhour. luhrudrji 'I'liid. — Arrived at Zanzihai'. Actino' (."ou- sul-( Joneral Ilolniwood warndy [)rotfcr('d hospitality. Instructed otHcers to proceed on hoard our transport, R I.S.N. Co. MiulunirdwA to take change of Sonialis and Soudanese, and Mackenzie to disend)ark forty (lonkeys and saddles from Jfadura — route l»ein<>' cliauiied there \vas no need for so many animals. Received compliments fi-om the Sultan of Zanzibar ; visits from the famous 'Pippu-Tih, Jaffar, son of Tarya To})an. his agent, and Kanji the Vakeel of Tarya. Zanzibar is somewhat changed during my eight years' alisence. There is a telegraphic ca))le, a tall (dock-tower, a new Sultan's palace, very h)fty and conspicuous, with wide verandahs. The Custxmi House has been enlarged. Oeneral Lh)yd Mathews has new ])arracks for Ids jNlili- tary Police ; the promenade to Fiddler's grave has l)een expanded into a broad carriage-way, which extends to Sultan's house bevond Mbwenni. There are horses and carriages, and steam-rollers, and lamp-posts, at convenient distances, serve to bear oil-lamps to light the road when His Highness returns to city from a country jaunt. There are six (ilerman war-vessels in port, under Admira.1 Knorr, If. B. j\I.S. Turquoise and Reindeer, ten merchant steamers, and a few score of Arab dhows, Bag- galas, Kanjehs, and l)oats. Fehruavji 'IZvd. — Paid what is called a State visit to His Highness. As a special mark of honour the troops, under stout General Lloyd Mathews, were drawn up in two lines, about 300 vards in length. A tolerable mili- tary band saluted us with martial strains, while several hundreds of the population w^ere banked behind the soldiers. The most frequent words I heard as I passed through with Consul Holmwood were : " Ndio huvu " — " Yes, it is he !" by which I gathered that scattered among the crowds must have been a large number of my old followers, pointing me out to their friends. State visits are nearlv alwavs alike. The " Present VISIT To Tilt: SCLTAX OF ZASZlliAIi. Gl iirms !" l»y (leiuM'al Mathews, tlic martial strains, the laroc o'l'oups of the siiporior Aral)s at the hall jxnch. the ascent up the lofty tli«^hts of stairs— the Sultan at the head of the stairs — tlie orave l)ow, the warm elasp, tiie sahitation word, the courteous wave of the han«l to eutei'. tlie slow uiarch towards the throne — another cere- monious inclination all round— the Prince taking- his seat, which intimates we may follow suit, the refiesh- ments of shei'het after coffee, and a few remarks altout Kurope, and our nuitual healths. Then the ceremonious de[)artui'e, a^ain the strains of music. Mathews' sonorous voice at " Present arms !" and W(^ retii'e from the scene to dott" our L()n(h)n dress-suits, and pack them up with cam})hoi' to preserve them from moths, until we return fnmi years of travel " Throui>h the Dark Con- tinent" and from "Darkest Africa." In tlip afternoon, paid the l)usiness visit, tii-st pre- sentinii' the followinix letter :— 1 SS7. I'eli. •.',!. X.iiizili;ir, " To His Highness Seyyid lUiidHASH bin Said, " Saltan of Zanzibar. " T?nrlinp;ton Hotel, " Old Hnrlin^ton Street, I.ondon, W. " '28^/i January, 1887. " Your Highness, '■ I cannot allow another mail to ))ass witliont writing;- t(» ex])ress to yon my ^'ratefal a))i)reciation of tlu! kindly res])onse yon madi^ to my telegram in regard to assisting tlio Expedition, which proceeds nnder tile leadership of Mr. H. M. Stanley to relieve Emin Pasha. The cor- diality with which yon instrncted yonr officers to assist in selecting the liest men available is indeed a most im))ortant service to the Ex])edition, and I have reason to know that it has given great satisfaction in England. Mr. Stanley will reach Zanzibar In abont four weeks. He is fnll of enthnsiasin as the leader of his interesting Expedition, and his chief reasons for selecting the ^.^ongo ronte are that he maybe able to convey the nit yonr Highness has so kindly assisted him in jirocnring witliont fatigne tr risk by sea to the Congo, and u]) the river in boats in com])arative comfort, and they will arrive within 850 miles of their destination fresh , 'id vigorous instead of being wor)i ont and jaded by the fatigne of a long march inland. His services will be entirely devoted to the Expedition dnring its ))rogress, and he cannot deviate from its course to perform service for the Congo State. " It is ])robable also he will return by the east coast land ronte, and as T know him to bo dec^ply interested in your Highness's i)ros]K'rity and welfare, I am sure if ho can render any service to Y(Hir Highness during his progress back to the coast, he will do so most heartily. I have had many conversations with him, and liave always found hini most friendly to Your Highness's interests, and I lielieve also the II r: 4^ t:l 1887. Vkh 2:5. Znn/ibnr. 62 IN DARKEST AfRICA. coiifidencc of onr mntual gof) I tVieiul. I iiray you in these ciivuin- stiuioes to ('omiuuiut'iit(! freely with Mr. Stanley on all jioints — as freely as if I liad the honour of being there to receive the communications myself, ■' With tlie repeated assurance of my hearty symjiathy in all the affairs tliat concern Your Ilighness's interests. " T remain, " Your very obedient servint and friend, " W. Mackixno.v.'" We thcji entered heartily into our ])usiiies,s : how altso- iiitely necessary it was that lie should promptly enter into an aoreement with the Enolish within the limits assiii'iied 1)\' Ani>l()-(iei'man ti'eatv. It would take too long to deserihe the details of the conversation, but I obtained from him the answer needed. " Please ( Jod we shall agree. When you have got the papers ready we shall read and sign without further delay and the matter will be over." At night, wrote the following letter to Emiii Pasha,, for transmission to-morrow by couriers overhmd, who will travel through Uganda into Liiyoro secretly. "To His Excellency Emin P.\sii.\, " (Jovernor of the Eriuatorial Provinces. " H. B. Majesty's Consulate. Zanzibar. " Deau Sin " J'^cbraari/ 'i'drd, 1887. " I liave the honour to inform you that the Government of His High- ness ihe Khedive of Egypt, upon the receipt of your urgent letters soliciting aid and instructions, have seen tit to depute me to equip an Exju'dition to ])roceed to Wudelai to convey such aid as they think you re(|uire, and to assist you in other ways agreeably with the written instructions which, have been delivered to me for you. " Having been i)retty acciivately informed of the nature of your neces- sities froTH the i)erusal of your letters to the Egyptian (Jovernment, the Expedition has been eijuipped in such a manner as may be sui)posed to meet all your wants. As you will gather from the letters of liis Higli- ness and the Prime Ministfn- of Egy))t to you, and which 1 bring with me, all that could possibly l)e doiu^ to satisfy your needs has been done most heartily. From the translation of the letters delivered to me, I ])crceive that they will give you immense satisfaction. Over sixty soldiers from Wady Haifa have been detailed to accompany me in order that they mav be able to encourage tlu^ soldiers undi'r your commind, and contirin the letters. We also march under the Egy])tian standaid. " The Exijcdition includes (JOO Zan/.ibari natives, and probably as many Aral) followers from Central Africa. " We sail to-morrow from Zanzibar to the (^ongo, and by the 18tb Juno next we hope to be at the head of navigation on the Uj)per Congo. From the poiid where we debark to the southern end of Lake Albert is a distance of M2() mil( s in a straight line, say r)00 miles by roacl, which will LETTER WRITTEN BY ME TO EM.'X PAS J f A. 63 probably occupy iis titty days to luarcli to the i?outli-\vcsteni or .southern C'lul, in ^he neighbourhood of Kavalli. " If your steamers are in that neighbourhood, you will be able to leave word ]K?rliai)S at Kavalli, or in its neighbourhood, inforining nie of your vvherealiouts. " Tlie reasons which have obliged me to adopt this route for the eon- veyanec of yotir stores are various, but in'incipally jjolitieal. I am also im])rcssi'd with the greater security of that route and the greater certainty of success attending the venture witli less tronble to the Expedition and less annoyance 1o the natives. Mwanga is a fonnidalilo op])on('nt to the south and soulii cast. The Wakedi and other warlike natives to the eastward of Fatiko o])])ose a serious obstacle, the natives of Kisiiakka and liuanda have n(;ver ])ermittearter, and transport animals, were on hoard. There were a few things to l)e done, however — such as arranging with the famous Tippu-Til) ahont our line of conduct towards one another. Tippu-Tih isa nnjch greater man to-day than he was in the year 1 877, when he escorted my caiavan.pi-e hminary to our descent down the Congo. 1 le has invested liis hard-earned fortune in guns ai;l powder. Adxcn rui'ous Arabs have flocked to his stan(hird. until he is now an uncrowned king of the region between Stanley Falls and Tanganika Lake, commanding man\' thousands of men iniu'ed to fighting and wild l'l(|uatoi'ial life. If I dis covered hostile intentions, my idea was to give him a wide ]»erth ; for the ammunition I had to convey to Kniin I'asha, if ca[»tured anloy('d by him. would en- 64 IN DAliKL'ST AFRICA. 1887. Feb. 24. Zauzibai'. (liiiioer tlie existence of the infant State of tlie Con per loaded head— each round trip from Stanley Falls to Lake Albert and back. Thus, if each carrier carries 70 lbs. weight of ivory, one round trip will bring to the Fund fl;},200 nett at Stanley Falls. On the conclusion of this conti'act, which was entered into in presence of the liritish Consul-Ceneral, I l)i'oached another subject in the name of His Majesty King r Leopold with Tippu-Tib, Stanh'v Falls station NEGOTIATIONS WITH TIPPV-TIB. 65 was established ])y me in December 188:5. Various Europeans have sin(;e commanded this station, and Mr. 13innie and Lieut. Wester of the Swedish Army liad succeeded in making it a well-ordered and presentable station. Captain Deane, his successor, (juarrelled with the Arabs, and at his forced departure from the scene set lire to the station. The object for wliich the station was established was the prevention of the Arabs from pursuing their devastating career l)elo\v the Falls, not so nnu;h by force as by tact, or ratlier tlie ha[)py com- bination of both. By the I'eti'eat of the otHcei's of the State from Stanley Falls, the floodgates were opened and the Aral)s pressed down river. Tippu-Tib being of course the guiding spirit (^f the Arabs west of Tanganika Lake, it was advisable to see how far his aid might l)e secured to check this stream of Aral)s from destroying the ("'ountry. After the interchange of messages by cable with Brussels — on the second day of my stay at Zanzibar — 1 signed an engagement with Tippu-Tib l)y which he was appointed (Jovernor of Stanley F.dls at a regular salary, paid monthly at Zanzi)»ar, into the British Consul-CJeneral's hands. His duties will be principally to defend Stanlev Falls in the name of the State against all Arabs and natives. Tlie Hag of the station will be that of the State. At all hazards he is to defeat and capture all persons raiding territory for slaves, and to disperse all bodies of men who may be justly suspected of violent designs. He is to abstain from ;dl sla\e traffic below the Falls himself, and to prevent all in liis com- mand trading in slaves. In order to ensure a faithful performance of his engagement with the State, an Euro- pean officer is to be a])pointe(l Resident a-t the Falls. On the breach of anv article in the contract beiny; re])orted, the salary is to cease. Meantime, while I was en« iged with these neo'otia- tions, Mr. Mackenzie had paid four months" advance pay- iii; I 2.41 5 — to G20 men and boys cidistecl in the Uelief Expedition, and as fast as each batch of lift}- men was satisfactorily paid, a barge was hauled alongsi*ic>()artl, and the steamer moved off to a more distant anchorage. By midnight Tippu-Til) and liis people and every person connected with the Expedition was on l)oard, and at dayl)reak next day, the 25tli Fel)ruary, the anchor was lifted, and we steamed away t(nvards the C*ape of Ciood Hope. So far there had not been a hitch in any arrangement. Dirticulties had been smoothed as if l)y magic. Every- Ixxly had shown the utmost sympathy, and l:)een prompt witli the assistance re(|uired. The othcers of the Expe- dition were kept fully employed frcmi morning to evening at laborious tasks connected with the repacking of the ammunition for Emin Pasha's force. Before conclu convey Miy force of carriers and soldiers to the (^)ngo had there ))een anv ditH>'ulty in the way of «nL!;ai»in<'' the B. I.S.N. Company's 8.s. Madura. ( 6< CHAPTER m. BY SEA TO THE CONGO Rn'ER. The Sultan of Zanzioai— Tippu-Tib and Stanley Falls- On board s.s. Madura — " Shindy " between the Zanzil)aris and Soudanese- Sketches of my various officers— Tii:>,u- Till and i.'ape Town- Arrival at the mouth of the Congo Kiver— Start up the Congo- Visit from two of the Executive Committee of the Congo State- Unpleasant thoughts. The followino- private letter to a friend will explain some thino's of o-eneral interest : — ^Iy dear SS. Madura, March 9th., 1887, Near Cape of Good Hoih). iss:. .MMi-ih >.i. (iodll H(i|ic, Apart from the Press letters which are t()l)e pultlished for the benefit of the Relief Fund, and whidi will contain all that the pul,>lic ought to kn(jw just now, I shall have somewhat to say to you and other friends. The 8ultan of Zanzi])ar received me with unusual kindness, mucli of which I owe to the introducticm of Mr. AVilliam Mackinn(m and Sir John Kirk. He pre- sented me with a fine sword, a shirazi hlade I should say, richly mounted with o()ld, and a magnificent diamond ring, whicli <|uite makes Tippu-Tih's eyes water. With the sword is the golden It It of His Highness, the clasp of which hears his name in Aral)ic. It will he useful as a sign, if 1 come ])efore Arahs, of the good understanding between tlie Prince and myself; and if I reach tlie Egyptian othcers, some of whom are prol>al)ly illiterate, they nmst accept the swortl as a token that we are not traders. Vou will have seen by the papeis that I have taken witli me sixtv-one soldiers — Sou«hinese. Mv ol)iect has V 2 '^K 08 7.V DAUKEfiT AFJiJCA. 1SS7. Mairh 'J. Caiie of (i(Knl Hope Itecii to enable tliem to speak for me to tlie Sondaiiese of lv|uatoria. Tlie F^nvptians may atiect to <]isi)elieve tinnans ami the writinu' of Niil)ai". in wliicli case these Soudanese will l)e pushed forward as li\ing witnesses of my commission. I have settled several little commissions at Zanzibar poll". HAIT C'K TU'ri:-TTB. satisfactorily. Oiic was to get the Sultan to sign the concessicms v.liich Alackinnon tried to obtain a !(/iig time ago. Vs the ; 'el•mali^ Jiave magnificent tcn'it(>r\' east of Z.iiizihar, it was l»ut fail- tliat Kugland should have some portion for tiie protection she lias accorde*! to Zanzihai' since 1841. The (Jermans appeared to LITTLE COMMI^SIOXS AT ZAXZIIiAIl. (Ill the ■itol'V lould hrdeil K t to luive recoo-iiized tliis, as vou mav see hv the hite Aiio-Jo- (jlermuii Agreement, France liad already ()l)tained p: immense area m West Africa. All the world had \<.- mmi to (constitute the (hmiain of King Leopold, on which lie htul spent a million sterling, as the Independent State of the Congo. Portugal, whicli is a chronic grumhler, and does little, and that little in a high-handed. illil)eral manner, has also been graciously considered by the European Powers ; ])ut England, which had sent out Ian- explorers, Livingstone, Burton, Bpeke, (irant. Baker, Keith Johnston, Tlumiscm, Elton, &c., had obtained nothing, and probably no people had taken such interest in the Dark (Vmtinent, or had undergone such saci'ifices in behalf of the aborimnes, as the Enolish. Her cruisers for the last twentv years had policed the ocean along the coast to suppress slave-catching ; her missions were twenty-two in number, settled between East and AVest Africa, This concession that we wished to obtain embraced a portion of the East African coast, of which Alombasa and Melindi were tlie principal towns. For eight years, to my knowledge, the matter had been placed before His Highness, but the Sultan's signature was {lifti('uit to obtain. Arriving at Zanzibar, I saw the Sultan was aging, and that he had not lono- to live.* Enolishmen could not invest mcmey in the reserved " sphere of influence ' until some such concessions were sinned. " Please God," said the Sultan. '" we shall agree ; there will be no further doul)t about the matter." But his political anxieties are wearing liini fast, and unless this matter is soon completed it will be too late. The other afiair was with Tippu-Tib. He had actu- ally in his possession three Krupp shells, unloa(h'(l, which he had brought with him from Stanley Falls, on the Upper CVmgo, to Zanzibar, to exhibit to his friends as the kind of missiles which the Belgians pelted liis settlements with — and he was e.xceedinglv wroth, and nourishfd a deep scheme of retaliation. It took mc •^onie time to (juiet; his spasms of I'escntment. People ls,s7. March 9. Cape ut' < iiiDil Hope Seyyiil Kurtrliash died six months lat vv. 70 IN DAHKEST AFRICA. 1887. Marcli 9. Cape of Good Ho]i(', very furious must Ije allowed time to vent their anger. AVlien he had poured out liis indignation some time, I ([uietly asked liim if lie had finislied, saying, in a 1)land way, tliat I knew well how great and powerful he was, etc, and I told him that it was scarcely fair to ])lame all the Europeans and King Leopold because an othcer at Stanley Falls had been pleased to heave Krupp shells at his settlements ; that this trouble had been caused hy the excess of zeal of one man in defendinii; a slave woman who had sought his protection, in the same way that Ea. iid, his nephew, had been carried away by the fury of youth to defend his rights. The Governor of the Congo State wj^s a})sent nearly 1500 miles down the river, and Tippu-Tib, the owner of the settlements, was several hundred miles eastward on the way to Zauzibr. Now I look upon this affair as the result of a match between one young white man and a young Arab, The gray heads are absent who would have settled the troul)le without fighting : youths are always " on their muscle," you know, " Do you know," I continued, " that that station has o-iven us a oreat deal of trouble. \Ve sent Amelot, vou remember. Well, he just left t^e station without orders, and d.'ed somewhere near Nycu.gwe' ; then the next, Oleerup, a fcwede, followed suit, and travelled across Africa instead ; then we sent Deane, and for a change he would have w^ar with the Arabs. King Leopold is not to blame for all this. It is a difficult thing to get men who are always wise, and understand thoroughly what their orders are. If King Leopold had sent Deane to fight you, he would not have sent him with thirty men, you may be sure." Now, look here. He proposes that you try your hand at governing that station. He will pay you every month what he would pay an European officer. There are certain little conditions that you must comply with l)efore you become Governor," Tippu-Tib opened his eyes and snapped them rapidly, as his custtmi is, and asked, " Me ? " " Yes, you. You like money ; I offer you money. J GREEMENTS WITH TIPPU- TIB. 71 la m ) get 'My eaiie lliirty your jVeiy riiere Iwitli idlv, iiey. You have a grudge against wliite men 1)eing tliere. i««7. Well, if you do your work rightly there will he no need ^'^'■'''"^• for any white men, except him whom we sliall have to oioH HoL place under you, to see that the conditions are not broken." " Well, what are they ? " " You must hoist the flag of the State. You nnist allow a Resident to be with you, who will write your reports to the King. You must neither trade in slaves, nor allow anybody else to trade in them below Stanley Falls. Nor must there be any slave-cat(^hing ; you under- stand. Such trade as you make in ivory, gums, rubber, cattle, and anything else, you may do as much as you please. But there is to be no pillaging native property of any description wliatever below your station. A monthly allowance will be paid into the hands of your Agent at Zanzibar. Don't answer right away. Go and discuss it with your friends, and think of what I otler you. My ship sails on the third day. Give me your answer to-morrow\" A favourable answer was given, a proper agreement was drawn up l)efore the Consul-General, and we both signed. . I made another agreement with him about the en- gagement of carriers to carry ammunition to Lake Albert from the Congo. If there is no ivory I shall be indebted to Tippu-Tib for the sum of £3,600. But there must be some, as })oth Emin Pasha and Dr. Junker declare there is a large store of it. At the same time I shall not risk the Expedition for the sake of the ivory. In consideration of these services which Tippu-Tib has solemnly contracted to perform, I permitted him free passage for himself and ninety-six of his kinsmen from Zanzibar to the Congo, with board included. I also undertook the responsibility of conveying the entire partv safelv to Stanley Falls, thus incurring not a small expense, but which if ftiithfully performed will itfe amply paid for by the services menticjned in the articles of agreement. These negotiations with Tippu- r J 72 7^" DARKEST A I'll IC A. 1887. Tib also ensure for us a penceful iiuirch from the C'oiioo March 9. (^iii.,)„M^ \{y^ tei'i'itoi'v, u thill*'' thut woiilhout the region ; and it is scarcely likely that we should be allowed to pass in peace, resenting, as they must naturally do, their late rupture with Deane. Having bound Tippu- Tib to me I feel somewhat safe against that constant fear of desertion of the Zanzil)aris. No Arab will now persuade the people to desert, as is their custom when a white man's Expedition passes near their settlements. Tippu-Tib dare not countenance such proceedings in this case. The Madura is a comforta])le steamer. On the Oriental and Navaritio we were uncomfortably crowded. Tween decks abreast of the boilers is rather a hot pla had ^''^'''^ ^• \vi[)e(l the hlood and perspiration away 1 conipli- noodTini.o. mented the otticers, especially Jejihson, Nelson, and Bonny, for their share in the fray. They had he- haved most gallantly. The result of the scrimmage is ten broken ai'ms, fifteen serious gashes with speais on the face and head, and contusions on shouldei's and backs not worth remark, and several abrasions (jf the lower lind)s. Surgeon Parke has l)een very Imsy A'accinating the entire comnmnity on boartl ship. Fortunately 1 had procured a large supply of lymph for this purpose, because of the harsh experience of the past. We also divided the people into seven companies of about ninety men each. I have ordered my Agent to send me 200 loads of various goods to meet the Expedition at ^Isalala, south end of Lake Victoria. They will be sent about October or November, 1887, arriving at Msalala in February or March, 1888, because if everything proceeds as I should wish, we shall be somewhere near tliere not very long after that date. *Jk Jk ^L ^ *|C Tff 7ft TJT I have been in the company of my otticers since I left Aden, and I have been quietly observing them. I will give you a sketch of them as they apjDear to me now. Barttelot is a little too eager, and will have to be restrained. Tliere is abundance of \vork in him, and this <{uality would be most lovely if it were always according to orders. The most valuable man to me would be he who had Barttelot's spirit and " go " in him, and wIk^ could come and ask if such and such a work ought to be done. Such a course suo-o-ests thoui»htfulness and willingness, besides proper respect. Tliere is a great deal in ]\lounteney Jephson, though he was supposed to be effeminate. He is actually fierce when roused, and his face becomes dangerously set and fixed. I noted him during the late battle aboard, and IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k A > yW^ >^ Photographic SciencRS Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4303 a\ ,V ^^ :\ \ 7.V DARKEST AFRICA. 1SH7. I caiiie near ciyiiig out " Bravo, Jephsoii ! " t]iouo;li I March 9. j^.^j my owii Stick, " l)ig as a mast," as the Zanzibaris G.^od Hope, "^'ly, to wield. It was most gallant and plucky. He will be either made or marred if he is with this Expedition long enough. ('a})tain Nelson is a fine fellow, and without the oliost of a liobhv : he is the same all round, and at all hours. 8tairs, of the Royal Engineers, is a splendid fellow, painstaking, ready, thoughtful, and industrious, and is an invaluable addition to our staff. Jameson is still the nice fellow we saw : there is not an atom of change in him. He is sociable and i;()od. Bonnv is the soldier. He is not initiative. He seems to have been under a martinet's drill. # ♦ « « « March \m, 1887. At Cape Town, Tippu-Tib, after remarking the pros- perity and business stir of the city, and hearing its history from me, said that he formerly had thought all white men to be fools. " Really," I said ; " Why ? " " That was my opinion." "Indeed! and what do you think o^ them now?" I asked. "■ I think thev have something in them, and that they are more enterprising than Arabs." " What makes you think so, particularly now ? " " Well, myself and kinsmen have been looking at this town, these big ships and piers, and we have thought how much better all these things appear com- pared to Zanzibar, which was captured from the Portuguese before this town was built, and I have been wondering why we could not have done as well as you white people. I begin to think you must be very clever. " If you have discovered so nmch, Tippu-Tib, you are on the hiiih road to discover more. The white men AliliJVAL AT THE MOUTH OF THE t'UXGO ItlVElL 75 He ?" 1 that efore I die." " Be faithful to us on this hmg journey, and 1 will take you there, and you will see more things than you can dream of now." " Inshallah ! if it is the will of Allali we sliall mo March ItJ. Cajie'l'owri. o together." « « 4( « « On the 18th March the Madura entered tlie moutli of the Congo River, and dropped her anchor al)out '200 yards abreast of the sandy point, called Banana. In a few minutes I was in the presence of Mr. l.afon- taine Ferney, the chief Agent of the Dutch C\)mi)any, to whom our steamer was consigned. Through some delay he had not l)een informed of our intending to arrive as soon. Everybody ju'ofe 'sed surj)rise, as tliey did not expect us before thi Hath, lait tliis fortunate accident was solely due to the captain and the good steamer. However, I succeeded in makinu; arrani»ements by which the Dutch CVanpany's steamer K. A. Nianan — so named after a fine vounij man of that name, who had lately died at St. Paul de Loanda — would l)e placed at my disposal, for the transpoit to Mataddi of 2.'i0 men next day. On returning to the ship, I found my officers surrounding two English traders, connected witli the British Congo Company of Banana. They were saying some unpleasant things about the condition of tlie State steamers. " Tliere is a piece of tlie Sfaiih't/ on sliore now, whicli will <;ive von an idea of that steamer. Tlie StanJi'i/ is a perfect ruin, we are told. However, will you leave the Pool ? The State has not one steamer in service. They are all drawn up on the banks for repairs, which will take months. We don't see how you ai'e to . get awav from here under six weeks ! I^ook at that big steamer on the sands ! she has just come out from Europe ; the fool of a captain j-an her on shore instead of waiting for a pilot. She has got the sections r 76 IN DARKEHT AFRICA. Congo Ikiver. 1H87. of a steamer in her liold. The Ileran and Behjiquf, ])otli March 18. '^^.^^^^ steamers, have first, of course, tf) float that steamer ofl". You are in for it nicely, we can tell you." Naturally, this news was very disc'ouraging to our officers, an«l two of them hastened to comfort me with the disastrous news. They were not so well acquainted with the manners of tlie " natives " of tlie Lower C'onao as I was. I onlv marvelled whv thev had not been politely re«pesteefore the 20th. On the 19th the steamers A'. ^1. Kicman, Albuquerque, and Serpa Pinto, departed from Banana Point, and before nijjht had anchored at Ponta da Lenlia. The next day the two former steamers steamed straight up to Mataddi. The Serpa Pinto hauled into the pier at Boma, to allow me to send an official intimation of the fact that the new Governor of Stanley Falls was aboard, and to receive a hurried visit from two of the Executive C Commit tee charged with the administration of the Congo State. We had but time to exchange a few words, but in that short time they managed to inform me that thc'^ was a " famine in the country " ; that " the villages ah)ng the road to the Pool were abandoned " ; that " the Sfanlef/ was seriously damaged " ; that " the Mission steamers Peace and Ilenr^/ Peed were in some unknown pai'ts of VOSDITION OF THE CONGO RlVEli STEAM EL'S. I i 'rque, and The raight Kiver. the Upper (V)iigo'' ; that "the En Evcuit was on shore i887. without machinerv or })oiler ; " that '* tlie A. /. vl. was ^'•"■'''' ^*'- 500 miles above Stanley Pool " ; and tliat " tlie l\(ii/(d was perfectly rotten ; " and had not heen employed foi' a vear ; in faet, that the whole of the naval stock promised did not exist at all except in the imagi na- tion of the gentlemen of the Bureau at Brussels; an' throuoh mv memory were the words of Junker : " Emin will be lost unk'ss immediate aid l»e given him;" and f^min's appeal for help; for, if denied, " we shall perish." "Well, the aspect of our work is ominous. It is not my fault, and what we liave to do is simple enougli. We have given our promise to strive our level l»est. It is no time for regret, but to struyolc and "steer right onward." Every article of our verltal bond, having accej)ted this responsildlity, we must perfoim, 78 IN DARKEST AFRICA. ill 1887. March 19. Congo Kiver. and it is the manner of this performance that I now propose to rehite. I shall not delay the narration to give descriptions of the route overland to the Pool, or of the Upper Congo and its banks, as these have been suffir-ientlv treated of in ' Through the Dark Continent,' and ' The Congo and the Founding of its Free State ' ; and I now propose to be very brief with the incidents of our journey to Yand)uya, at the Jiead of navigation on the Aruwimi. CHAPTER IV. TO STANLEY POOL. Dct.ails of tlic jonrney to Stanley Pool — The Soudanese and the Somalis — ^lectins with Mr. Herbert Ward— Canij) at Congo la Leniba — Kindly entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Bicliards — I^etters from uj) river — Lettei-s to the Rev. Mr. Bentley and others for assistance — Arrival at Mwembi — Necessity of enforcing discii)line— IMarch to Vom bo— Incident at Lnkungu Station — The Zanziliaris — Incident l)etween Jephson and Salini at the Inkissi River— A series of complaints— The Rev. Mr. Bentley and the steamer I'air>—\\Q reach Makoko's village — Leopoldville— Difficulties regarding the use of the Mission pteamers — Monsieiir Liebrichts sees Mr. Biliington — Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kinshassa — Orders to and duties of the officers. Ox the 21st of March the Expedition (lel)aike(l at the hiii(ling-phxce of tlie Portuguese trading-house of Senor Joda Ferrier d'Al)ren, situate at Mataddi, at a distance of 108 miles from the Atlantic. As fast as the steamers were discharged of their passengers and cargo they cast ort" to return to the seaport of Banana, ov the river port below. About noon the Portuguese gunboat Kacom/o hove in sight. She brought Major Barttelot, Mr. Jephson, and a number of Soudanese and Zanzi])aris ; and soon after the state steamer I/cron l)rought up the remaimler of the caro;o left on board the M<«lura. We set up the tents, stored the immense quantity of rice, biscuits, millet, salt, hay, etc., and bestirred our- selves like men with unlimited work l)efore us. Every tticer distinguished himself — the Zanzibaris showed by their celerity that they were glad to be on shore. ( )ur European party now consisted of Messrs. Barttelot, Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, Parke, Bonny, who had voyaged with me from Aden, Mr. Walker, an engineer, who had .March ->l. MiUiuldi. <> #- * 80 y.V DAIiKJCST AFJiJCA. 1HH7. March 21. Matad.li. II if i(mR'«l us at the r{i[)t'. Mr. In^^hani. jin c'x-( Juard.snmn, who was our Conyo Ayent for collectioii of native carriers, Mr. .lohn Rose Troup, who liad ])een despatclied to su[)erintend native porterage to tlie Pool from Mun- yanJiindas, who were hauling the Florida's shaft. At the rate of progress they would probaldy reach the Pool about August next ; and at the Bembezi Ford a French trader was met des(;ending with a fine hjt of ivory tusks. We passed the Mangola River on the 31st, when I was myself disabled by a fit of sickness from indulging riioiiitKss cr rill-: coxnn iiiviut. 85 in the ji;uHvas of (on«;() la l.ciulta. and on the 1st April we travelled to Ban/a Maiiteka. At the \.. 1, Mission }Ay. and Mrs. l^ichards most kindly entertained ns. At this place a few years' mission work has proilnced a great change. Nearly all the native pojtulation had liecome professed Christians, and atteiuled Divine service pnnctnally with all the fervonr of revivalists. Youn<; men whom i had known as famous «'in- 1. Miintuko. /• > 86 IN DARKEST AFIilCA. 1887. April 3. Kvvilu Kiver. tij lit' ^^ Stanley Pool to interpret the orders of the Minister of the Interior, Strauch, according to the generous spirit expressed by King Leopold when he invited us to seek Emin Pasha via the Conoco. Another was directed to the Rev. Mr. Bentley, of the Baptist Mission, requesting him to remember the assistance I gave the Baptists in 18C0-84, and to be prepared to lead the steamer Peace that I might hurry the Expedition away from the poverty-stricken region around Stanley Pool. Another was despatched to Mr. Billington, superintendent of the Henry Reed, in similar terms, reminding him that it was I who had given them ground at Stanley Pool. Another to the Commandant of Lukungu Station, request- ing him to collect 400 carriers to lighten the labours of my men. On reaching Mwembi the 6th April, I was particularly struck with the increase of demoralization in the caravan. So far, in order not to press the people, I had been very quiet, entrusting the labour of bringing the stragglers to the younger men, that they mig-ht become experienced in the troubles which beset Expedi- tions in Africa ; but the necessity of enforcing discipline was particularly deuKHistrated on this march. The Zanziliaris had no sooner pitched the tents of their respective officers than they rushed like madmen among the neighbouring villages, and commenced to loot native property, in doing which one named Khamis bin Athman was sh(^t dead by a plucky native. This fatal incident is one of these signal proofs that discipline is lietter than constant forbearance, and how soon even an army of licentious, insubordinate, and refractory men would be destroyeii. It had probably been believed by the mass of the people that I was rather too old to supervise the march, as in former times ; but on the mai'cli to \'om))o, on the 7th, everyone was undeceived, and the last of the lengthy caravan was in camp 1)y 11 a.m., and each officer enjoyed his lunch at noveries was the fact 1887. April 18. Nkiil.inia Kiver. r-' i. 92 IN DARKEur AFRICA. i 1887. April 21. Leopold- ville. that the Sitanlcj/, a small lighter, our steel ])oat the Adramr, and the mission steamer Pence were the only boats availal)le for the transport of the Expedition up the Congo. I intrcjduce the following notes from my diary : — LeopohlviUe, April 22nd. — We are now 345 miles from the sea in view of Stanley Pool, and before us free from rapids are about 1100 miles of river to Yam])uya on the Aruwimi whence I propose resuming the land journey to Laks Albert. Messrs. Bentley and Whitley called on me to-day. AVe spoke concerning the Peace. They said the vessel required many repairs. I insisted that the case was urgent. They finally decided after long consultation that the repairs could be finished by the 30tli. In the afternoon I took Major Barttelot and Mr. Mounteney Jephson into my confidence, and related to them the difficulties that we were in, explained my claims on the consideration of the missionaries and the urgent necessity of an early departure from the foodless district, that provisions were so scarce that the State were able to pro(;ure only 60 full rations for 146 people, and that to supply the others the State officers had recourse to hunting the hippopotami in the Pool, and that we should have to pursue the same course to eke out the rice. And if 60 rations can only be procured for 146 people by the State authorities, how were we to supply 750 people I I then directed them to proceed to Mr. Billington and Dr. Sims, and address themselves to the former principally — inasmuch as Dr. Sims was an unsuccessful applicant for a position on this Expedition — and explain matters fairly to him. Tliev were absent about an hour and a half, and returned to me crestfallen, — they had failed. Poor ]\Iajedition people mzibar nse of silver en who be so laughed at bv their neif>li])ours tliat tliev could not live." There is a great deal of truth in these remarks, but in this Expedition are scores of confirmed bounty- jumpers who are only awaiting opportunities. In in- specting the men to-day I was of the opinion that only about 150 were free men, and that all the remainder were either slaves or convicts. Mr. J. S. Jameson has kindly volunteered to proceed to shoot hippop(^tami to obtain meat. We are giving 1 lb. of rice to each man — ^just half rations. For the officers and our Arab guests I have a Hock of goats, about tliirt}' in number. The food presents from the various chiefs around have amounted to 500 men's rations and have been very acceptable. Capt. Nelson is busy w^th the axemen preparing fuel for the steamers. The Stanlej/ must depart to-morrow with Major Barttelot and Surgeon Parke's companies, and debark them at a place above the Wampoko, when they will then march to Mswata. I must avail myself of every means of leaving Stanley Pool before we shall be so pinched by hunger that the men will become un- controllable. April 25t/i. — The steamer Stanley, steamed up river with 153 men under Major Barttelot and Surgeon Parke. I paid a visit to Kinshassa to see my ancient secretary, Mr. Swinburne, who is now manager of an Ivorv Tradin O ,, Captain and Surgeon „ 7, Somalis and Zanzibar is. j\Ir. William Bonny takes charge of transjiort and riding animals and live stock, and a.'-sists Surgeon Parke when necessary. "Each officer is personally responsible for the good behaviour of his company and the condition of arms and accoutrements." '• (Officers will inspect frctjuently cartridge-pouches of their men, and keep record to prevent sale of ammu- nition to natives or Aral)s." "For trivial otfenccs — a slight corporal punishment only can be inflicted, and this as seldom as possi])!e. ( )tHcers will exercise discretion in this matter, and en- deavour to avoid irritating the men, bv beino- too exacting, or showing unnecessary fussiness." "It has been usual for me to be greatly forbear- ing — let the rule be, three pardons for one punish- ment." "Officers will please remember that the lal)our of the men is severe, their burdens are heavy, the climate hot, the marches fcitiguing, and the rations poor and often scanty. Under such conditions human nature is ex- tremely susceptible, therefore punishments should be judicious, not vexatious, to prevent straining patience too much. Nevertheless discipline must be taught, and when necessary enforced for the general well- being." " Serious offences affecting the Expedition generally will be dealt with by me." VOL. I. H \^ !■ ;■ 'd\ 98 IN DAJiKEST A Fine A. 1887. April :iU. '* While on 8liip])oard one officer will be detailed to perform the duties o' the day. He must see to the dis- tribution of rations, ship cleaned, and that no fighting or wrangling occurs, as knifing soon follows unless checked, that the animals arc fed and watered regularly. For all petty details apply to the senior officer. Major Barttelot." I 'h. I CHAPTER V. FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA. Upper Congo scenery —Accident to the Peace — Steamers reach Kimpoko — Collecting fuel — The gc^d-for-nothing I'eare — The Stanley in trouble — Arrival at Bolobo -Tho Relief Exi)edition arranged in two columns— Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson chosen for conunand of Eear Column — Arrival at Erpiator and IJangala Stations — The Biisoko villages: Baruti deserts us — Arrival at Yamlmya. 1887. May 1. Upper As I luue already expatiated at large upon the descrip- tion of scenes of the Upper Congo, 1 intend to expunge altogether any impressions made on us according to our ^'°°S" varying moods during our river voyage of about 1100 miles to Yambuya. I will confine myself to the in- cidents. The days passed quickly enough. Their earlier hours presented to us every morning panoramas of f(jrest-land, and mvriads of forest isles, and br(^ad channels of dead calm water so beshone l)y the sun that they resembled rivers of quicksilver. In general one might well have said that they were exceedingly monotonous, that is if the traveller was moving upward day l)y day past the same scenes from such a distance as to lose perception of the details. But we skirted one bank or the other, or steered close to an island to avail ourselves of the deep water, and therefore were saved from the tedium of the monotony. Seated in an easy-chair scarcely 40 feet from the shore, every revolution of the propeller caused us to see new features of foliage, bank, trees, shrubs, plants, buds and blossoms. We might be indifferent to, or ignorant of the character and virtues of the several plants and N'aried vegetation we saw, we might have no interest in if 100 IN DARKEST AFlilCA. 1887. May 1. Upper Congo any portion of the shore, but we certainly forgot the lapse of time while observing the outward forms, and were often kindled into livelier interest whenever an inhabitant of the air or of the water appeared in the field of vision. These delightful views of perfectly culm waters, and vivid green forests with every sprig and leaf still as death, and almost unbroken front line of thick leafy l)ush sprinkled with butterflies and moths and insects, and wide rivers of shining water, will remain longer in our minds than the stormy aspects which STAXLKY ri)()L disturbed the ex(juisite repose of nature almost every afternoon. From the middle of ^larch to the mi(hlle of May was the rainy season, and daily, soon after 2 r.M., the sky l»etokened the approach of a lowering tempest ; the sun was liidden by the dark portents of storms, and soon after the thunderbolts rent the gloom, lightning blazed through it, the rain })ou)'ed with tropical copious- ness, {tnd general misery prevailed and the darkness of the niglit followed. Nature and time were at their best for us. The river was neither too high n(»r too low. Were it the former VPl'EIl CONGO SCENEBY 101 we should have had the difficulty of fiii«''"iig uniiuiiidated ground; had it been the latter we should have l)een tediously delayed by the shallows. We were permitted to steer generally alwut 40 yards from the left hank, and to enjoy without interruption over 1000 miles of changing hues and forms of vegetable life, wliich for their variety, greenness of verdure, and wealth and scent of flowers, the world cannuld be le. I about cutting y hard The nber of utters, e lifty lours ; ?0-inch ccd re- ime to rd the niorn- silence, in the nd the tinned Drovoke ..f tlie We halted every forty-five minutes or so to " oil up," i887. and sometimes had to halt to clear out the cylinders of *^"^ ** the propellers, had to stop to raise steam, to have the collgo. grate cleared out of charcoal, while five minutes after raising steam up to 60^, she fell to 40°, and then l^5°, and the poor miserable thing floated down stream at the rate of a knot an hour. We lost seven days at Stanley Pool through her ; a day was lost when the rudder broke ; we were fated to be belated. The next day, the 5th, we made fast to the landing- place of Mswata. The Major and Dr. Parke had arrived four days previously. They had prepared quantities of fuel, and had purchased a large pile of provisions — loaves of bread from the manioc root and Indian corn. On the 6th the Major and his companions received orders to march their men to Kwamouth, and await the steamer. The Staitkf/ was ordered to proceed to Bolobo, debark her passengers, and descend to Kwamouth .to convey Barttelot and men, while we reorganized com- panies at Bolo])o. On the 7 til we observed the Stanlei/ steamer ashore on the left bank near Chuml)iri, and proceeding to her to inquire into the delay discovered that she was badly injured by running on a rocky reef. The second section had l)een pierced in four separate places and several rivets knocked out and others h^osened. We therefore set to with the engineers of all the other steamers to repair her, but Messrs. Charters and Walker, both Scotchmen, were the most effective at the repairs. We cut up some old sheet iron oil drums, fonned plates of them, and screwed tliem in from the outside. This was a very delicate labour, rcijuiring patience and nicety of tt)uch, as tliere were two feet of water in the hold, and the screws re(|uired to be felt to place the nuts on, as well as the punching of holes through the bottom of the steamer. The engineer was up to his waist in water, and striking his chisel through an element that broke the blow, then there was the preparation of the plate to correspond with the holes in the steamer, spreading the minium. if 104 IN DARKEST AFBTCA. I % 1887. May 7. Ul)per Congo. i !^ i: I ! I i: V i ! ji then a layer of canvas, and another layer of minium. When everything was ready for fixing the iron plate, a diver was sent down, the iron plate with its canvas patch and minium layers in one hand, and the end of a string attached to a hole in the plate in the other hand. The diver outside had to feel for the corresponding hole in the steamer, and the engineer up to his hips in water within the hold felt for the end of the twine, which when found, was drawn in gently, and the plate carefully guided, or the bolt was slipped in, and the engineer placed the nut on. For hours this tedious work went on, and by evening of the 7th, one large rent in the steel hull had been repaired ; the 8th and 9th were passed before the steamer was able to continue her voyage. On the 10th the Stanh\f/ caught the asthmatic Peace up, and passed us in company with the llennj Reed. A few hours later the Peace sulked altogether, and declined to proceed. C)nly 30 11 )s. steam could ])e maintained. We were therefn-e compelled to make fast to the shore. At this period j\Ir. Charters' face possessed more interest than anything else in the world. We hung on his words as though they were decrees of Fate. He was a sanguine and cheerful little man, and he comforted us exceedin;]i:lv. He was sure we would arrive in Bolol^o in good time, though we did not appear to be proceeding very rapidly while tied to the shore. The next dav we tried aoain startino- at 4 a.m., resolved to distinguish ourselves. For an hour the Peace behaved nol)ly, l)ut finally she showed symptoms of relapse. The steam descended lower and lower, and could not retain 5 ll)s., and we therefore cast anchor. At 10 A.M. the case appearing hopeless, I despatched Mr. Ward in the whale l)oat to ()])tain assistance from the Jlenri/ Jieed, and at eight at night she appeared and anchored sixty yards from us, and all the day we had been idly watching the dark l»rown current How l)y, anchored in mid-stream at least 500 yards from either shore or island, seeing notliing but hippopotami, grassy clumps, weeds, and debris of woods floating by. On DECISION AS TO COMMAND OF HEAR COLUMN. 105 the 12tli we arrived ignominiously at Bolobu iii tuw of i887. the Henry Feed. ^^ l^^' When the traveller reaches Uyanzi such a thing as congo. famine is scarcely possible, and one of the best river ports for al)undance and variety of food is Bolobo. Here, then, after reaching a district where the people could recuperate and forget the miseries of limited rations endured since leaving Lukungu, was the place to form the Relief Expedition into two colunms. It was decided that as the force could not l)e trans- ported on one voyage to the Upper Congo, that the healthiest men should be selected to proceed t<^ Yaml)uya, and that the weakly should remain in B(dol)o as a portion of Major Barttelot's column under Messrs, Her- bert Ward, and William Bonny, until the Sf' the most important post next to mine, all eyes were natu- rally directed to the senior officer, Major Barttelot. It was said that he had led a column of a thousand men from Kosseir on the Eed Sea to Keneli on the Nile, and that he had distinguished himself in Afo'lianistan and in the Soudan Campaign. If these facts were true, tlien un- doubtedly he was the fittest otfic(M" for the office of commanding the rear column. Had there l)eeu a person of equal rank with him, I should certainly have dele- gated this charge to another, not because of any kno^v^l unfitness, l»ut l)ecause he was so eager to acc(>nq)any the W 106 IN DARKEST AFRICA. 1887. May 12 Upper Congo. I : 3 lyKiiM advance column. On reflecting on the capacities and rank of the other gentlemen, and their eaoerness being too well known to me, I informed the Major that I could not really undertake the responsibility of appointing youthful lieutenants to fill a post that devolved on him by rank, experience, and reputation. " One more steamer like the Stanlej/ would have done it, Major, completely," I said, cheerfully, for the young officer was sorely depressed. "Only 125 men and a cargo of goods left of the Expedition. All the rest are on board comfortably. If you can discover some better person than yourself to take your place l)etween here and Yambuya, I would gladly know him. I hope you will not take it too much to heart. For what does it matter after all ? You who bring up the rear are as much entitled to credit as we in the advance. If Tippu-Til) will only be faithful, you will only be six weeks behind us, and you may overtake us, for we shall be naturally delayed a great deal, finding the track and boring our way through all kinds of obstacles. You will follow an indicated path, and fre(|uently you may be able to make two of our marches in one day. If Tippu-Tib does not join us, you will be master of your own column, and you will be so occupied with your task that the days will slip by you fast enough. And I tell you another thing for your comfort, Major ; there is plenty of work ahead of us, wherein you shall have the most important part. Now tell me, who would you wish for ycjur second ? " " Oh, I would rather leave it to you." " Nay, I would prefer you would select some one friend as your companion, to share your hopes and thoughts. We all of us have our partialities, you know." " Well, then, I choose Jameson." " Very well, Mr. Jameson shall be appointed. I will speak to him myself I will then leave JNIr. Rose Troup, who is a capital fellow, I have reason to Ijelieve, and young Ward and Bonny. Both Troup and Ward speak Swahili, and they will be of vast service to you." In this manner the matter was arranged, and on the WE BEACH BANG ALA STATION. 107 15t'.i of ]\Iay the flotilla resumed tlie up-river voyage, C(mveying 511 persons of the Expedition, and Tippu- Tib and ninety of his followers. We made a fair journey on the IGth, the repairs on the Peace having greatly improved hci rate of progress, and on the 19tli made fast to the shore near the Baptist Mission of Lukolela, though the Stanley did not make her appearance until late on the 19th. We halted on the 20th at Lukolela, to purchase food for our journey to Equator Station, and we were extremely grateful for the kind hospitality shown to us by the missionaries at this station. On the 24th of May we arrived at Equator Station, now owned by the Sanford Company, which was repre- sented by Mr. E. J. Glave, a young and clever York- shireman. Captain Van Gele was also here, with five Houssa soldiers lately returned from a futile effort to as- cend the Mobangi higher than Mr. Grenfell, the missi With the exception of certain irregularities in the behaviour of the steamer Sftnilet/, which l)y some niNsterious manoeuvres disappeared amid intricate passages, on the plea that sufficient fuel of a right quality could be found, we steameil up to the Aruwimi River without any incident, and arrived at our ancient camp, opposite the Basoko villages, on June 12th. The Basokcj were the countrymen of Baruti, or *' Gunpowder," who had been captured by Karema when a child, in 1883, and had l>een taken to England by 8ir Francis de AVinton, with a view of impressing on him the superiority of civilized customs. Fr(mi Sir Francis' care Baruti passed into mine, and here we were at last in view of his natal village and tribe, from which he had been absent six years. Seeing Baruti eyeing with excessive interest the place of his birth, he was encouraged by me to hail the Basoko, and invite them to visit us. My previous attempts at winning the confidence of these forest natives had l)een failures, though in time I was sure there would be no ditticulty. For a long period it had been an interestino- (luestion to me why aborioines of the forest were more intractable and coy than natives of the open country. The same methods had been applied, the danolinu" of some briuht or oaudv article of barter, the strings of beads of dazzling colour, suspended patiently, the artful speech, the alluring smile and gesture, all were resorted to for long hours, but always ending with disappointment and postponement to a more leisurely occasion. But the reason is that the forest has been always a handy fastness for retreat, the suspicion of the stranger, and the convenient depth of trackless woods plead strongly against some indefinite risk. The least advance causes a precipitate l)ackw^ard movement until he gains the limits of the forest, anci then he stands to take a last survey, and finally dis- MY BLACK BOY BARUTI AND I/IS BROTHER. 109 ta, and of the ?t that nl)uya. in the some itricate I right ruwimi ancient uti, or a when l)y Sir )n him ^'rancis' at hist he had le pLnce lail the revious forest as sure it had nies of ives of oplied, )arter, tended e and always t to a at the retreat, depth ilefinite ekward st, and lly dis- appears into the gh)om with an air of " It won't (h), you know ; you can't come over me." Wliereas in the open country the native has generally some coign of vantage, some eminence, a tree or an ant-hill, from the crest of which he has taken his (observations, and been warned and informed of the character of the strangers, in the forest the stranger meets the tenant of the woods abruptly ; he has advanced out of the unknown, with 1887. June 12. Uj^er Congo. BAUUTI FINDS HIS BROTHEB, purpose unfathomed. Surprise is in the face of one, terror marks the face of the other. Baruti hailed, and the canoes advanced towards us with a tediously slow process, but finally they ap- proached within easy hearing. He recognized some (jf the canoe-men, and informed them that they had no cause for fear. He asked for a person whose name he uttered, and the wild men hallooed the word with splendid lung-power across the river, until some one resp(jnded, and eml)arked in a canoe an