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f^j^>^y>-f*^^- j

A' /

J^^

IN DARKEST AFRICA

oil THE

QUEST, RESC;iTE, AND RETREAT OF EM IN
GOVERNOR OF EQUATORIA

HENRY M. STANLEY

WITH TWO STEEL ENORAVINCJS, AND ONE HUNDRED AND
FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS

IN TWO VOLUMES

Vol. I

" I will not vvaai'. lo jjfo forward until I conio to tlio place where the two seai* nuH't.
thouiili I travel ninety years,"— Kohan, chap, xviii., v. tVi.

rs f

NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

TORONTO
PRESBYTERIAN NEWS COMPANY

1890
[All riijhtH reiierced\

Entered according to Act of PnrlianiMit of Cnnndn,
in the year 1890. by

SAMPSON [,0W, MARSTON, SEARLE. & RIVINGTON

Limited

London, England, at the Department
of A£n°iculturu.

COPVRIOHT, 1890, BT

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

I'riiiti;il ami lluuinl

lly JAMHS MUKKAV «: Co.

rORON ro, ONT.

atet

CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.

Pbefatort Letter to Sir Wilmam Mackinnon, Chairman op
the emin pasha relief expedition

TAOI

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY CHAITER.

The Khedive and the Soudan — Arabi Pasha— Hicks Pasha's defeat —
The Mahdi — Sir Evelyn Baring and liord Granville on the
Soudan — Valentine Baker Pasha — General Gordon : his work
in the Tipper Soudan — Edward Schnitzler (or Emin Effendi
Hakim) and his Province— General Gordon at Khartoum: and
account of the Relief Expedition in 1884 under Lord Wolseley
— Mr. A. M. Mockay, the missionary in Uganda — Letters from
Emio Bey to Mr. Mackay, Mr. C. H. Allen, and Dr. R. W. Felkin,
relating to his Province — Mr. F. Holmwood's and Mr. A. M.
Mackay's views on the proposed relief of Emin — Suggested
routes for the Emin Relief Expedition — Sir Wm. Mackinnon
and Mr. J. F. Button— The Relief Fund and preparatory details
of the Expedition —Colonel Sir Francis De Winton — Selection of
oflScers for the Expedition — King Leopold and the Congo Route
—Departure for Egypt 11

CHAPTER TT.

EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR.

Surgeon T. H. Parke — Views of Sir Evelyn Baring, Nubar Pasha,
Professor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker on the Emin Relief
Expedition — Details relating to Emin Pasha and his Province —
General Grenfell and the ammunition — Breakfast with Khedive
Tewfik: message to Emin Pasha— Departure for Zanzibar —
Description of Mombasa town — Visit to the Sultan of Zanzibar
— Letter to Emir Pasha sent by messenger through Uganda —
Arrangements with Tippu-Tili — Emin Pasha's Ivory — Mr.
MacKenzie, Sir John Pender, and Sir James Anderson's assist-
ance to the Relief Expedition 49

coxrrxTs.

CHAlTKn III.

BY SEA TO THE CONGO UIVKU.

i-M-r.

The Sultan of Zaiiziliar — Tijjpii-'ril) and Stanley Falls— On l)oar(l
8.S. Mudurn—'' Shindy " ln'twcen the Zan/,il>aris and SDiulaiiese
— Skotclies of my Viirious Otfi'-iTs — Ti|)|)U-Tili and Capo Town
— Arrival at the mouth of the Coii^o itivor— Start up tln^
(' (Ufro— Visit from two of tho Executive Committee of the
Congo State — I'npleapant thouj^hts 07

CIIAPTKll TV.

Ti) ST.XNLEV pool..

•Details of tlie journey to Stanley Tool — The Soudanese and tho
Somalis— Mtetinij: with .A[r. Herbert Ward — Camp at Conpo la
Lemba— Kindly enteitaiued l)y ;\[r. and iMrs. Hiehards — liutters
from uj) river — Letters to the IJev. Mr. Bciitley and others for
assistance — Arrival at Mwembi -Necessity of enforcing disci-
pline—March to Voml)!)— Inciilent at Lukungu Station — The
Zanzibaris — Incident between Jeplisun niid Salim at the Inkissi
Kiver — A series of comi)laints — llie Hev. Mr. l?entley and the
steamer /Vmr^We reach Makoko's village — Leopoldville — Diffi-
culties regarding the use of the Mission steamers — Monsieur
■ Liebrichts sees Mr. Billington — Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kin-
■• shassa— Orders to, and duties of, the officers

CIIAPTEK V.

FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA.

Upper Congo scenery — Accident to V ^ Peace — Steamers reach
Kimpoko— Collecting fuel — Tlie good-for-no.-iiug Pewe — The
Sf(iii/('!/ in trouble — Arrival at Bolobo— The Relief Rxpedition
arranged in two colunuis — Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson
chosen for command of Kear Column — Arrival at Equator and
Bangala Stations — The Basoko village.^: Baruti deserts us —
Arrival at Yambuya

CHAPTER VI.

Ugi

AT YAMBUYA.

We land at Yambuya villages — The Stanley leaves for Equator
Station — Fears regarding Major Barttelot and the Henn/ Heed —
Safe arrival — Instructions to Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson
respecting the Rear Column — JIajor Bnrttelot's doubts as to
Tippu-Tib's good faith — A long conversation with Major Bart-
telot — Memorandum for the oilicers of the Advance Column-
Illness of Lieutenant Stairs— Last night at Yambuya : state-
ments as to our forces and accoutrements Ill

CONTEXTS.

CHAPTER VII.

TO TANQA FALLS.

An Africiui road -Our mode of travelling througl; the forests —
Farewell to Jameson and the 3Iajor — JOO days in the forest —
The l{ai»ids of Yanihuya — Attacked hy natives of Yankonde —
Kest at the village of Jiahunga — Deserii)tion of our march —
The iK)is(jned skewers — Capture of six J^ahali -Dr. Parke and
the bees — A tenii)est in the forest — Mr. Jejihson puts tlut steel
lioat together— The village of Pukanda — Hefuse heaps of tlio
villages— The Aruwimi river .scenery — Villages of the liakuti
and the Bakoka — The Pa])ids of Gweiigwere -The hoy Pakula
— Our " chop and coflfee " — The islands near Pandangi — Tho
Pahurn dwarfs— The unknown course of the river —Tlic Somalis
— Bartering at Mariri and Mu])e — The Aruwimi at ^lujie — The
lialie manners, customs, and dress — Jephson's two ailventures —
Wasji Eapids— The chief of the Bwamlmri — Our camp at
My-yui — Canoe accident — An ahandoned village — Arrival at
Panga Falls — Description of the Falls

l.'U

CHAPTi II VIIT.

FROM PANGA FALLS TO UGAHHOWWA'S.

Another accident at the Eapids — The village of Utiri — Avisibba
.settlement -Enrjuiry into a murder case at Avisibba — Sur-
jirised by the natives — Lieutenant Stairs wounded — We hunt
up the enemy — The poisoned arrows — Indiiference of the Za,n/i-
baris — jei)hson's caravan uiissing — Our woundeil — ^Peri)etual
rain — Deaths of Khalfan, Saadi, and others — Arrival of caravan
— The Mabengu Rapids — Mustering the ])eople— The N(^poko
river — Pemarks by Pinza — Our food supply — Peckli^ss use of
ammunition — Halfway to tlie Albert Lake — We fall in with
some of Ugarrowwa's men — Absconders— We camp at Hip])0
Proads and Aval<ubi Rapids — The destroyed .settlement
of Navabi — Elephants at Memberri — More desertions — The
Arab leader, Ugarrowwa— He gives us information — Visit to the
Arab settlement — First specimen of the tribe of dwarfs-;—
Arrangements with Ugarrowwa ..171

CHAPTER IX.
ugarkowwa'b to kilonga-loxga's.

Ugarrowwa .sends us three Zanzibari deserter.s — We make an
example— The 'Express' rifles — Conversation with Rashid
— The Lenda river — Troublesome rapids — Scarcity of food
— Some of Kilonga-Longa's followers - Meeting of tlie rivers
Ihuru and Ituri — State and niuubers of the Expedition —
Illness of Captain Nelson — We send couriers ahead to Kilonga-
Longa's — Tlie sick encampment — Handy and the guinea fowl —
Scarcity of food — Illness caused by the forest ])ears — Fanciful
menus — More desertions — Asniani drowned — Our condition in
brief — Uledi's suggestion — Umari's climb — My donkey is shot
for food— We strike the track of the Manyuema and arrive at
their village ' 211

CONTESTS.

CHAITKU X.

WITH THK MANYUEMA AT II'OTO.

The ivory liuntcrs iit Ipoto— Their inoih' of proceeding — The Miiii-
yiuiiiia lieiuliiKfU iiinl th«'ir niids— Uemedy for prevcutiiig whoh'-
wUe (hivastiitioiiH-('rustule i)reii('h('(l l»y ('urdimil Lavif!;(!ri(' -
Our Ziiiizihar chiefs —Anxiety respetrtinj: Captain Nelson and
liis followers — Our men sell tlu-ir weapons for food— Theft of
rifles — Tluiir return demanded — I'ledi turns up with news of
th(! missing chiefs- (Contract drawn up with the Manyuenia
headmen for the relief of Captain Nelson -Jephson's report on
his journey — Reports of Captain Nelson and Surj^eon Parke —
The process of blood brotherhood Inftween myself and Ismaili —
Wo leave Ipoto 236

CHAPTER XI.

THKOUGH THK F0UE8T TO MAZAMBONl'S PEAK.

In the country of the Balesse— Their houses and clearings— Natives
of Bukiri— The th-st village of dwarfs— Our rat(i of progress
increased — The road from Mamhur.gus— Halts at East and West
Indekaru— A little storm between "Three O'clock" and Khamis
— We reach Ibwiri-- Khamis and the " vile Zanzibaris " — The
Ibwiri clearing — Plentiful provisions— The state of my men ;
and what they had recently gone through— Khamis and party
explore the neighbourhood — And return with a flock of goats
— Khamis cajttures Roryo, but is released — Jephson returns
from the relief of Captain Nelson — Departure of Khann's and
the Manyuema — Memorandum of charges against Messrs.
Kilonga Longa & Co. of Ipoto— Suicide of Simba — Sali's reflec-
tions on the same — Lieutenant Stairs reconnoitres — Muster and
reorganisation at Iltwiri — Improved condition of the men —
Boryo's village— Balesse customs — East Indenduru — We reach
the outskirts of the forest — Mount Pisgah — The vilhige of
lyugu — Heaven's light at last; the beautiful grass-land — We
drop across an ancient crone — Indesura and its products —
Juma's capture — The Ituri river again— We emerge ui)on a
rolling plain — And forage in some villages— The mode of hut
construction — The district of the Babusesse — Our Mbiri captives
— Natives attack the camj) — The cour.se of the Ituri— The
natives of Abunguma — Om- fare since leaving Ibwiri — Mazam-
boni's Peak — The east Ituri — A mass of [)lantations —
Demonstration by the natives — Our camp on the crest of Nzera
Kuni — " Be strong and of a good courage " — Friendly intercourse
with the natives — We are compelled to disper.se them — Peace
arranged — Arms of the Bandussuraa U55

CHAPTER XII.

ARRIVAL AT LAKE ALBEUT AND OUR RETURN TO IBWIRI.

We are further annoyed by the natives — Their villages fired —
Gavira's village — We kcej) the natives at bay — Plateau of
Unyoro in view — Night attack by the natives — The village of

CONTKXrs.

Vll

i-Aoa

Kiitoiiza'H — Parley wiih tlu' imtivcs — No news of tlif I'aslui —
Our supply of cartritlKt'H — Wo conNidcr our jH)sitioii Iii»'ut«'iiaiit
Stairs convcrKCK with tli(( jiooplo of Kasniya Isliuid I'lic only
KciiHiltlo fours*! left UK— Apiiii attacked l>y natives Scenery on
tlio lake's sliore— \V« climb a nitmntain -A rich discovery of
grain— The rich valley of rndussunia— Our return journey to
Ibwiri— The construction of Kort Bodo 31 Jl

CHA?TK1{ XIII.

LIFK AT FOIIT BODO.

Our imiHjnding duties — Tlie stockade of Fort Bodo — Instructio:;s to
Lieutenant Stairs— His dejiarture for Kilonpa-Longa's— Pested
by rats, mosquitoes, &v. — Nights disturlnjil by the lemur-
Annies of red ants— Snakes in troi)ical Africa — Hoisting the
p]gyijtian flag — Arrival of Surgeon Parke and Captain Nelson
froui Ipoto — R(!iK)rt of their stay with the Manyuenia— Lieu-
tenant Stairs arrives with tlie steel l)oat— We determine to iMish
on to the Lake at once— Volunteers to convey letters to Major
Barttelot — Illness of myself and Captain Nelson — Uledi captures
a Queen of the Pigmies- Our fields of corn — Life at Fort Bodo
— We again set out for the Nyanza 350

CHAPTER XIV.

TO THE ALBERT NYANZA A SECOND TIME.

Difficulties with tlie steel l>oat — African forest craft— S))len<lid
capture of ])iginies, and description of the same — We cross tho
Ituri hiver — Dr. Parke's delight on leaving the forest — Camp
at Besse — Zanzibari wit — At Nzera-Kum Hill once more— Inter-
course with the natives — " Malleju," or the " Bearded One,"
being first news of Emin — Visit from cliief MazamlM)ni and his
followers — Jej)lison goes through tlie form of friendship with
Mazamboni — The medicine men, Nestor and Murabo — The
trilies of the Congo — Visit from cliief Gavira — A Mliuma chief —
The Bavira and Wahuma races — The varying African features —
Friendship with Mi)inga — Gavira and the looking-glass — Ex-
posed Uzanza — We reach Kavalli — The cliief produces
"Malleju's" letter — p]min's letter— Jephson and Parke convey
the steel Iwat to the lake — Copy of letter sent by me to Emin
through Jephson — Friendly visits from natives 373

CHAPTER XV.

THE MEETING WITH EMIN PASHA.

Our camp at Bundi— Mbiassi, the cliief of Kavalli— The Balegga
granaries — Chiefs Katonza and Konmbi express contrition— The
kites at Badzwa — A note from Jephson — Emin, Casati and
Jei)hson walk into our camp at old Kavalli -Descrijitions of
Emin Pasha and Captain Casati— The Pasha's Soudanese — Our
Zanzibaris — The steamer Khedive — Baker and the Blue

VI. 1

CONTEXTS.

PAOK

Mountains— Drs. Junker and Felkin's descriptions of Emin —
Proximity of Kabba Kepa— Eniin and tlie E(|uatorial Provinces
— Dr. Junker's report of Emin — I discuss with Emin our future
j)roceedings — Captain Casati's plans — Our camp .and provisions
at Nsabe — Kabba Hegas treatment of Cai)tain Casati and
Mohammed Biri — Mabrnki gored by a buifalo— Emin Pasha and
liis sohliers — My ])ropositions to Emin and his answer — Emin's
jiosition — Mahomet Aclimet— The Congo State— The J'oreign
Office despatches 393

CHAPTER XVI.
WITH THE PASHA — continued.

Fortified stations in the Province — Storms at Nsabe — A nest of
young crocodiles — Lake Ibrahim — Zanzibari raid on Balcgga
villajies — Dr. Parke goes in seaich of the two missing men — The
Zanzibaris again — A real tornado — The Pasha's gifts to us —
Introduced to Emii>'s officers — i']min's cattle forays — The
Khedive departs forMswa station — Mabrnki and his wages — The
Pasha and the use of the sextant — Ttcparture of local chiefs —
Arrival of the Khedive and Sij'inza steamers v/ith soldiers — Made
arrangements to return in search of the rear-column— My message
to the troops — Our Badzwa road — A farewell dance by tlie
Zanzibaris — The Madi carriers' disai)pcarance— First sight of
lluwenzori — Former circunnia\igators of the Albert I^ake —
Lofty twin-peak mountain near the East Ituri l?iver — Aid for
Emin against Kabba Bcga— Two letters from Emin Pasha —
We are informed of an intended attack on us by chiefs Kadongo
and Musiri — Fresh Madi carriers — \Ve attack K'a(U)iigo'scamp —
With assistance from Mazamboni and Gavira we march on
Musiri's camjt which turns out to be deserted — A phalanx dance
by Mazamboni's warriors — Music on the African Continent —
Camii at Nzera-kum Hill — Presents from various chiefs — Chief
Musiri wishes for peace .. .. 416

chapte:i xvil

PERSONAL, TO THE PASHA.

Age and early days of Emin Pasha— Gordon and the pay of Emin
Pasha — Last interview with Gordon Pasha in 1877— P^min's last
supply of ammunition and ]irovisions — Five years' isolation —
Mackay's library in Uganda — Dmin's abilities and titnesf- fir his
])Osition— His linguistic and other attainments — Emin's industry
— His neat journals— Story related to me by Shukri Agha
referring to Emin's escape from Kirri to Mswa — Emin confirms
the story — Some natural history facts related tome by Emin -
The Pasha and the Dinka tribe— A lion story — Emin and " bird
studies"

422

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.

START FOR THE HKLIEF OF THE REAB COLUMN.

TAOB

Escorterl by various tribes to Mukangi — Camp at Ukuba village —
Arrival at Fort Bodo — Our invalids in Ugarrowwa's care —
Lieut. Stairs' report on his visit to bring up the invalids to
Fort Hodo— Night visits by the malicious dwarfs — A general
•uuster of the garrison — I decide to conduct the Relief force
in person — Captain Nelson's ill-health— My little fox-terrier
" Randy "—Description of the fort — The Zanzibaris — Esti-
mated time to perform the ji)urney to Yanibuya and back —
Lieut. Stairs' suggestion about the steamei .'^fnn/eij — Conversa-
tion with Lieut. Stairs in reference to ^Major Rarttelot and the
Rear Column — Letter of instructions to Lieut. Stairs 452

CHAPTER XIX.

ARRIVAL AT 15ANALVA : BAHTTELOT DEAD !

The Relief Force— The difficulties .)f marching — We reach Ipoto —
Kilonga Longa apologises for t'le behaviour of his Manyueraa —
The chief returns us some of our rifles — Dr. Parke and fourteen
men return to Fort Bodo— Ferrying across the Ituri River —
Indications of some of our old camps — We unearth our buried
stores — The Manyuemi escort — Bridging the Lenda River —
The famished Madi — Accidents and deaths among tiie Zanzi-
baris and Madi— My little fo.\-terrier "Randy" — The vast
clearing of Ujangwa — Native women guides — We reach
Ugarrowwa's aiiandoned station - - Welcome food at Amiri
Falls— Navabi E'alls — Halt at -^vamburi landing-place — Death
of a Madi chief — Our buried sv res near Basopo unearthed
aiid stolen — Juma and Nassib wander away from the Column —
The evils of forest marciiing — Conversation between my
tent-boy, Sali, and .-i Zanzibari — Numerous bats at Mabengu
village— We reach Avisibba, and find a young Zanzibari girl —
Nejambi Rapids and Panga Falls— The natives of Panga—At
Mugwye's we disturb an intendel feast— We overtake Ugar-
rowwa at Wasp Rapids and find our courier.s and some deserters
in his camp — The head courier relates his tragic story — Amusing
letter from Dr. Parke to Major Barltelot — Progress of our canoe
flotilla down the river— Tlie Batundu natives — Our progress
since leaving the Nyauza -Thougiits about the Rear Column —
Desolation along tlie i>anks of the river — We reach Banalya —
Meeting with Bonny — The Major is dead — Banalya Camp..

408

CHAPTER XX.

THE SAD STOltY OF THE REAR TOLUMN.

Tippu-Til)— Major E. M. Barttelot— Mr. J. S. Jameson— Mr, Herbert
Ward— Messrs. Troup and Bonny — Major Barttelot 's Report on
the doings of the Rear Column — Conversation with Mr. Bonny
—Major Bartt(Oot's letter to ^Ir. Bonny — Facts gleaned from the
written narrative of Mr. Wm. Bonny — Mr Ward detained at
Bangala— Rei)eated visits of the Major to Stanley Falls— Murder

CONTENTS.

PAGB

of Major Barttelot— Bonny's account of the murder— The
assassin Sanga is punished— Jameson dies of fever at Bangala
Station — Meeting of the advance and rear columns— Dreadful
state of the camp— Tippu-Tib and Major Barttelot— Mr. Jameson
—Mr. Herbert Ward's report 408

APPENDIX.
Copy of Log of Rear Column 527

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOLUME 1.

STEEL ENGRAVINO.

Portrait of Henry M. Stanlev FroHtiapiere.

(From a Photogruph by Elliott & Fry, 18K«.)

FULL-PA GE ILL USTRA Tioys.

FacliiK
paste

Group — Mr. Stanley and his Officers 1

The Steel Boat "Advance" 80

In the Night and Rain in the Forest 14(i

The Fight with the Avisibba Cannibals 174

The Ri.ver Column Ascending the Aruwimi Kiver wivh the "Ad-
vance" and Sixteen Canoes 1H4

Wooden Arrows of the Avisibba 180

"The Pasha is Coming" I'.Ki

The Relief of Nelson and Survivors at Starvation Camh . . 2r)()

Gymnastics in a Forest Clearing '^.W

Ivuou ; A Call to Arms '28<i

Emerging from the Forest '^0''

First Experiences with Mazamboni's People. View from Nzera

KuM Hill :{0<;

The South End of the Albert Nyanza, Dec. 13. 1887 . . . 324

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Sketch-Map : " Return to Ugarrowa's
Emi.v and Casati Arrive at Lake Shore Camp
A Phalanx Dance by MAaAMBONi's Warriors
Meeting with the Hear Column at Banalya

Facing
page

By Lieutenant Stairs . 3G5

396
438
494

THER ILL VSTRA TIONS.

'!;!

!«l

Portrait of Emin Pasha

" Captain .Nelson

" Lieutenant Stairs .

William Bonny
A. J. Mounteney Jephson

" Surgeon Parke, A.M.D.

" XuBAR Pasha .

" The Khedive Tewfik

" Tippu-TiB

Maxim Automatic Gun ....
Launching the Steamer " Florida " .

Stanley Pool

Baruti Finds his Brother .
A Typical Village on the Lower Aruwim
Landing at Yambuya ....
Diagram of Forest Camps .
Marching through the Forest
The Kiranoozi, or Foremost Man
Head-Dress — Crown of Bristles
Paddle ok the Upper Aruwimi or Ituri

Wasps' Nests

Fort Island, near Panoa Falls
Panga Falls

100

109

112

113

130

135

137

160

164

168

169

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

XUl

View of Utiri Village

Leak-Bladeu PAl)DL^: ok Avisibba
A IIeau-Dress ok Avisibha Warriors

CORONETEU Av.'SlBBA WaRRIOR — HeAD-DrESP

Cascades of the Xei'oko

View of Bafaido Catarai t ....

Attackino ax Elephant in tiik iUki Kivk.ii
Randy Seizes the Cil-inea Fowl . ...

KiLONGA LoXGA's StATIO.V

Shields oy the TUless^

View of Molxt Pisgam kro.m the Eastward
Villages ok the Bakwuru ox a Spir ok I'lstiAii
A Village at the Base ok Pis(i\ii

CaiEK OK the Iyigu

Pipes ok Forest Tribes

Shields ok the Bablsesse

Suspexsiox Bridge across the East Ituri .

Shield ok the Edge ok the Plaixs

View ok the South End ok Albert Nyaxza

Corn Granary ok the Babusesse

A Village ok the Baviri : Europ axs Tailoring

Great Rock xear Ixdetonoa ....

Exterior View ok Fort Bodo ....

Interior ok Fort Bodo

Plan ok Fort Bodo axd Vicinity, by Lieutexant Stairs.

The Queen op the Dwarfs .

Within Fort Bodo

One of Mazamboxi's Warriors .

Kavalli, Chief ok the Babiassi .

Milk Vessel ok the Wahuma

The Steamers "Khedive" axd "Nyanza" ox Lake Albert

View of Banalya Curve

Facini;
page

172
174
178
179
193
203
203

234

2oG

281

2!!i3

284

285

290

299

304

317

318

342

345

348

349

351

354

308

371

384

389

392

426

493

LIST 01 ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of Major Barttelot
" Mr. Jameson .

FaeiDi;
page

499

501

MAP.

^ Map of the Great Forest Region, Showing the Route of the
Emin Pasha Relief Expedition from the River Congo to
VcTORiA Nyanza. By Henry M. Stanley.

In Pocket.

Pacini;
page

499
501

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IN DARKEST AFRICA,

K
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P.
&
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PREFATORY LETTER.

My deah Sir William,

I have great pleasure in dedicating this hook to ycu.
It professes to be the Official Report to yourself and the
Emin Relief Committee of what we have experienced
and endured during our mission of Relief, which cir-
cumstances altered into that of Rescue. You may
accept it as a truthful record of the journeyings of the
Expedition which you and the Emin Relief Committee
entrusted to my guidance.

I regret that I was not able to accomplish all that I
burned to do when I set out from England in January,
1887, but the total collapse of the Government of
Equatoria thrust upon us the duty of conveying in
hammocks so many aged and sick people, and protecting
so many helpless and feeble folk, that we became trans-
formed from a small fighting column of tried men into
a mere Hospital Corps to whom active adventure was
denied. The Governor was half blind and possessed
much luggage, Casati was weakly and had to be carried,
and 90 per cent, of their followers were, soon after
starting, scarcely able to travel from age, disease, weak-
ness or infancy. Without sacrificing our sacred charge,
to assist which was the object of the Expedition, we
could neither deviate to the right or to the left, from
the most direct road to the sea.

VOL, L

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

I if

You who throughout your long and varied life have
steadfastly believed in the Christian's God, and before
men have professed your devout thankfulness for many
mercies vouchsafed to you, will bet^ understand than
many others the feelings which an . .^e me when I find
myself back again in civilization, uninjured in life or
healtli, after passing through so many stormy and dis-
tressful periods. Constrained at the dprkeF:t hour to
humbb confess that without God's help I w\as helpless,
I vowed a vow in the forest solitudes that I would
confess His aid before men. A silence as of death was
round about me ; it was midnight ; I was weakened l)y
illness, prostrated with fatigue and worn with anxiety
for my white and l)lack companions, whose fate was a
mystery. In this physical and mental distress I be-
sought God to give me back my people. Nine hours
later we were exulting with a rapturous joy. In full
view of all was the crimson flag with the crescent, and
beneath its waving folds v/as the long-lost rear column.

Again, we had emerged into the open country out of
the forest, after such experiences as in the collective
annals of African travels there is no parallel. We w^ere
approaching the region- wherein our ideal Governor w\^s
reported to be beleaguered. All that we heard from
such natives as our scouts caught prepared us for des-
perate encounters with multitudes, of whose numbers or
qualities none could inform us intelligently, and when
the population of Undusuma swarmed in myriads on the
hills, and the valleys seemed alive with warriors, it really
seemed to us in our dense ignorance of their character
and power, that these were of those who hemmed in
the Pasha to the west. If he with his 4000 soldiers
appealed for help, what could we effect with 173?
The night before I had been reading the exhortation of
Moses to Joshua, and whether it was the effect of those
' brave words, or whether it was a voice, I know not, but
it appeared to me as though I heard : *' Be strong, and
of a good courage, fear not, nor be afraid of them, for
the Lord thy God He it is that doth go with thee. He
will not fail thee nor forsake thee." When on the next

rHEFATOHy LETTER.

day Mazaml)oni commanded his people to attack and
exterminate us, there was not a coward in our camp,
whereas the evening before we exchiimed in l)itterness
on seeing four of our men fly before one native, "And
these are the wretches with whom we must reach the
Pasha I "

And yet again. Between the confluence of the Ihuru
and the Dui rivers in December 1888, 150 of the
l)est and strongest of our men had been despatclied to
forage for food. They had been absent for many days
more than they ought to have been, and in the mean-
time 130 men besides boys and women were starving.
They were supported each day with a cup of warm thin
])roth, made of butter, milk and water, to keep death
away as long as possible. When the provisions were
so reduced that there were only sufficient for thirteen
men for ten days, even of the thin broth with four tiny
biscuits each per day, it became necessary for me to
hunt up the missing men. They might, being without
a leader, have been reckless, and been besieged by an
overwhelming force of vicious dwarfs. My following
consisted of sixty-six men, a few women and children,
who, more active than the others, had assisted the tiiin
fluid with the berries of the phrynium and tne
amomum, and such fungi as could be discovered in
damp places, and therefore were possessed of some
little strength, though the poor fellows were terribly
emaciated. Fifty -one men, besides boys and women,
were so prostrate with debility and disease that they
would be hopelessly gone if within a few hours food
did not arrive. My white comrade and thirteen men
were assured of sufficient for ten days to protract the
struggle against a painful death. We who were bound
for the search possessed nothing. We could feed on
berries until we could arrive at a plantation. As we
travelled that afternoon we passed several dead bodies
in various stages of decay, and the sight of doomed,
dying and dead produced on my nerves such a feeling
of weakness that I was well-nigh overcome. Every
soul in that camp was paralysed with sadness and

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

suffering. Despair had made them all dumb. Not
a sound was heard to disturb tlie deathly brooding.
It was a mercy to me that I heard no murmur of
reproach, no sign of rebuke. I felt tlie horror of the
silen(;e of the forest and the night intensely. Sleep
was impossible. My thoughts dwelt on these recurring
dis()l)ediences which caused so much misery and
anxiety. " Stiff-necked, rebellious, incorrigible human
nature, ever showing its animalism and lu'utisliness, let
the wret(^hes be for ever accursed ! Tlieir utter thought-
less and oblivious natures and continual breach of
promises kill more men, and cause more anxiety, than
the poison of the darts or barbs and points of the

arrows. If I meet them I will " But before the

resolve was uttered flashed to my memory the dead
men on the road, the doomed in the camp, and the
starving with me, and the thought that those 150
men were lost in the remorseless woods beyond re-
covery, or surrounded by savages without hope of
escape, then do } u wonder that the natural hardness
of the heart was softened, and that I again consigned
my case to Him who could alone assist us. The next
morning within half-an-hour of the start we met the
foragers, safe, sound, ro])ust, loaded, bearing four tons
of plaintains. You can imagine what cries of joy these
wild children of nature uttered, you can imagine how
they flung themselves upon the fruit, and kindled the
fires to roast and boil and bake, and how, after they
were all filled, we strode back to the camp to rejoice
those unfortunates with Mr. Bonny.

As I mentally review the many grim episodes and
reflect on the marvellously narrow escapes from utter
destruction to which we have been subjected during
our various journeys to and fro through that immense
and gloomy extent of primeval woods, I feel utterly
unable to attribute our salvation to any other cause
than to a gracious Providence who for some purpose of
His own preserved us. All the armies and armaments
of Europe could not have lent us any aid in the dire
extremity in which we found ourselves in that camp

PREFATORY LETTER.

and
utter
uring

camp

hetween the Dui and Ilmru ; an army of explorer.s could
not liave traced our course to the scene of the hist
Struggle had we fallen, for deep, deep as utter ohlivion
had we y)een surely buried under the lumuis of the
trackless wilds.

It is in this humhle and grateful spirit tliat T com-
mence this record of the progress of the Expedition
from its inception by you to the date when at our feet
the Indian Ocean burst into view, pure and )»lue as
Heaven when we might justly exclaim *' It is ended ! "

What the pul^lic ought to know, that hrve I written ;
but there are many things that the snarling, cynical,
un])elieving, vulgar ought not lo know, I wi'ite to
you and to your friends, and for those who desire more
light on Darkest Africa, and for those who can feel an
interest in what concerns humanity.

My creed has been, is, and will remain so, I hope, to
act for the best, think the right thought, and speak the
right word, as well as a good motive will permit.
AVhen a mission is entrusted to me and my conscience
approves it as noble and right, and I give my promise
to exert my best powers to fulfil this according to the
letter and spirit, I carry with me a Law, that I am
compelled to obey. If any associated with me prove
to me by their manner and action that this Law is
equally incumbent on them, then I recognize my
brothers. Therefore it is with unqualified delight tliat
I acknowledge the priceless services of my friends
Stairs, Jephson, Nelson and Parke, four men whose
devotion to their several duties were as perfect as
human nature is capable of. As a man's epitaph can
only be justly written when he lies in his sepulchre, so
I rarely attempted to tell them during the journe}', how
much I valued the ready and prompt obedience of
Stairs, that earnestness for work that distinguished
Jephson, the brave soldierly qualities of Nelson, and the
gentle, tender devotion paid by our Doctor to his ailing
patients ; but now that the long wanderings are over, and
they have bided and laboured ungrudgingly throughout
the long period, I feel that my words are poor indeed

7^" DARKEST AFRICA.

when I need them to express in full my lasting obli-
gations to each of them.

Concerning those who have fallen, or who were
turned back by illness or accident, I will admit, with
pleasure, that while in my company every one seemed
most capaljle of fulfilling the highest expectations
formed of them. I never had a doubt of any one
of them until Mr. Bonny poured into my ' ears the
dismal story of the rear column. While I possess
positive proofs that both the Major and Mr. Jameson
were inspired by loyalty, and burning with desire
throughout those long months at Yambuya, I have
endeavoured to ascertfdn why they did not proceed as
instructed by letter, or why Messrs. Ward, Troup and
Bonny did not suggest that to move little by little was
preferable to rotting at Yambuya, which they were
clearly in danger of doing, like the 100 dead followers.
To this simple question there is no answer. The eight
visits to Stanley Falls and Kasongo amount in the
aggregate to 1,200 miles ; their journals, log books, letters
teem with proofs that every element of success w\is
in and with them. I cannot understand why the five
officers, having means for moving, confessedly burning
with the desire to move, and animated with the highest
feelings, did not move on along our tract as directed ; or>
why, believing I was alive, the officers sent my personal
bao-oracre down river and reduced their chief to a state
of destitution ; or, why they should send European
tinned provisions and two dozen bottles of Madeira
down river, when there were thirtv-three men sick and
hungry in camp ; or, why Mr. Bonny should allow
his own rations to be sent down while he was present ;
or, why Mr. Ward should be sent down river with
a despatch, and an order be sent after him to
prevent his return to the Expedition. These are a
few of the prol^lems which puzzle me, and to which
I have been unable to obtain satisfactory solutions.
Had any other person informed me that such things,
had taken place I should have doubted them, but
I take my information solely from Major Barttelot'ti

PBEFATORY LETTER.

official despatch (See Appendix). The telegram which
Mr. Ward conveyed to the sea requests instructions
from the London Committee, but the gentlemen in
London reply, " We refer you to Mr. Stanley's letter of
instructions." It becomes clear to every one that there
is a mystery here for which I cannot conceive a rational
solution, and therefore each reader of this narrative
must think his own thoughts but construe the whole
charitably.

After the discovery of ]\Ir. Bonny at Banalya, I had
frequent occasions to remark to him that his goodwill
and devotion were equal to that shown by the others,
and as for bravery, I think he has as much as tlie
bravest. Wit;^ his performance of any appcjinted work
I never had cause for dissatisftiction, and as he so
admirably conducted himself with such perfect and
respectful obedience while with us from Banalya to the
Indian Sea, the more the mystery of Yambuya life is
deepened, for w4th 2,000 such soldiers as Bonny under
a competent leader, the entire Soudan could be sub-
jugated, pacified and governed.

It must thoroughly be understood, however, while
reflecting upon the misfortunes of the rear-column, that
it is my firm belief that had it been the lot of l^arttelot
and Jameson to have been in the place of, say Stairs and
Jephson, and to have accompanied us in the advance,
they would equally have distinguished themselves ; for
such a group of young gentlemen as Barttclot, Jameson,
Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, and Parke, at all times, night or
day, so eager for and rather loving work, is rtire. If I
were to try and form another African State, such tire-
less, brave natures would be simply invaluable. The
misfortunes of the rear-column were due to the resolu-
tions of August 17th to stay and wait for me, and to
the meeting with the Arabs the next dav.

u hat is herein related about Emin Pasha need not, I
hope, be taken as derogating in the slightest from tlie high
conception of our ideal. If the reality differs somewhat
from it no fault can be attributed to him. While his
people were faithful he was e jual to the ideal ; wlien

IN DARKEST AFBICA.

his soldiers revolted his usefulness as a Governor
ceased, just as the cabinet-maker with tools may turn
out finished wood-work, but without them can do
nothing If the Pasha was not of such gigantic stature
as we supposed him to be, he certainly cannot be held
responsible for that, any more than he can be held
accounta])le for his unmilitary appearance. If the
Pasha was a])le to maintain his province for five years,
he cannot in justice ])c held answerable for the wave
of insanity and the epidemic of turbulence which con-
verted his hitherto loyal soldiers into rebels. You will
find two special periods in this narrative wherein the
Pasha is described with strictest impartiality to each,
l)ut his misfortunes never cause us to lose our respect
for him, though w^e may not agree wdth that excess of
sentiment which distinguished him, for objects so un-
worthy as sworn rebels. As an administrator he dis-
played the finest qualities ; he was just, tender, loyal
and merciful, and afiectionate to the natives who placed
themselves under his protection, and no higher and
better proof of the esteem with which he was regarded
])y his soldiery can be desired than that he owed his
life to the reputation for justice and mildness which he
had won. In short, every hour saved from sleep was
devoted before his final deposition to some useful
purpose conducive to increase of knowledge, improve-
ment of humanity, and gain to civilization. You must
remember all these things, and l)y no means lose sight
of them, even while you read our impressions of him.

I am compelled to believe that J\lr. Mounteney
Jephson wrote the kindliest report of the events that
transpired during the arrest and imprisonment of the
Pasha and himself, out of pure aftection, sympathy, and
fellow-feeling for his friend. Indeed the kindness and
sympathy he entertains for the Pasha are so evident
that I T)lavfullv accuse him of lieinsi,' either a Mahdist,
Aral)ist, or Eminist, as one would naturally feel
in<lignant at the prospect of leading a slave's
life at Khartoum. The letters of Mr. Jephson,
after ])eing shown, were endorsed, as will be seen by

PREFATORY LETTER.

Emin Pasha. Later observations proved the truth of
those made by Mr. Jephson when he said, " Sentiment
is the Pasha's worst enemy ; nothing keeps Emin here
but Emin himself." What 1 most admire in him is
the evident struggle between his duty to me, as my
agent, and the friendship he entertains for the Pasha.

While we may naturally regret that Emin Pasha did
not possess that influence over his troops which would
have commanded their perfect obedience, confidence and
trust, and made them pliable to the laws and customs
of civilization, and compelled them to respect natives as
fellow-subjects, to be guardians of peace and protectors
(jf property, without which there can ])e no civilization,
many will think that as the Governor was unable to do
this, that it is as well that events took the turn they
did. The natives of Africa cannot be taught that there
are blessings in civilization if they are permitted to l)e
oppressed and to be treated as unworthy of the treat-
ment due to human beings, to be despoiled and en-
slaved at will by a licentious soldiery. The habit of
regarding the aborigines as nothing better than pagan
ah\d or slaves dates from Ibrahim Pasha, and nuist ])e
utterly suppressed before any seml)lance of civilization
can be seen outside the military settlements. When
every grain of corn, an<l every fowl, goat, sheep and
cow which is necessary for the troops is paid for in
sterling money or its equivalent in necessary goods,
then civilization will become irresistible in its influence,
and the Gospel even may ])e introduced ; l)ut without
impartial justice ])oth are impossible, certainly never
when preceded and accompanied by spoliation, which I
fear was too general a custom in the Soudan.

Those who have some regard for righteous justice
may find some comfort in the reflection that until
civilization in its true and real form be introduced into
E(|uatoria, the aborigines shall now have some peace
and rest, and that whatever asjiects its semlilance bare,
ex<'epting a few orange and lime trees, can l)e replaced
witliin a month, under higher, l)etter, and more enduring
auspices.

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

If during this Expedition I have not sufficiently
manifested the reality of my friendship and devotion
to you, and to my friends of the Emin Relief
Committee, pray attribute it to want of opportunities
and force of circumstances and not to lukewarmness and
insincerity ; but if, on the other hand, you and my
friends have been satisfied that so far as lay in my
power I have faithfully and loyally accomplished the
missions you entrusted to me in the same spirit and
to the same purpose that you yourself would have
performed them had it been physically and morally
possible for you to have been with us, then indeed am
I satisfied, and the highest praise would not be equal
in my opinion to the simple acknowledgment of it, such
as " Well done."

]\Iy dear Sir William, to love a noble, generous and
loyal heart like your own, is natural. Accept the pro-
fession of mine, which has been pledged long ago to you
wholly and entirely.

Henry M. Stanley.

To Sir Williaiw Maokinnon, Bart.,
of Balinahill and Loup,
in the County of Argyleshire,
The Chairman of the Emm Pasha Helief Committee.

&c. (&C. (&C.

CHAPTER 1.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

The Khedive and the Soudan — Arabi Pasha— Hicks Pasha's defeat — The
Mahdi — Sir Evelyn Baring and Lord Granville on the Soudan —
Valentine Baker Pasha — General Gordon: his work in the Upper
Soudan— Edward Schnitzler (or Emin Elfendi Hakim) and his pro-
vince — General Gordon at Khartoum : and account of the Relief
Expedition in 1884, under Lord Wolseley — Mr. A. M, Mackay, the
missionary in Uganda — Letters from Emin Bey to Mr. Mackay,
Mr. C. H. Allen, and Dr. E. \V. Felkin, relating to his Province-
Mr. F. Holmwood's and Mr. A. M. Mackay's views on the proposed
relief of Emin — Suggested routes for the Emin Relief Expedition —
Sir Wm. Mackinnon and Mr. J. F. Hutton — The Relief Fund and
Preparatory details of the Expedition — Colonel Sir Francis De Winton
— Selection of officers for the Expedition — King Leopold and the Congo
Route — Departure for Egypt.

Only a Carlyle in his matiirest period, as when he drew
in lurid colours the agonies of the terrible French
Revolution, can do justice to the long catalogue of
disasters which has followed the connection of England
with Egypt. It is a theme so dreadful throughout, that
Englishmen shrink from touching it. Those who have
written upon any matters relating to these horrors
confine themselves to bare historical record. No one
can read through these without shuddering at the
dangers England and Englishmen have incurred during
this pitiful period of mismanagement. After the Egyptian
campaign there is only one bright gleam of sunshine
throughout months of oppressive darkness, and that
shone over the immortals of Abu-Klea and Gubat,
when that small body of heroic Englishmen struggled
shoulder to shoulder on the sands of the fatal desert, and
won a glory equal to that which the Light Brigade were
urged to gain at Balaclava. Those were fights indeed,

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

and atone in a great measure for a series of blunders,
that a century of history would fail to parallel If
only a portion of that earnestness of purpose exhibited
at Abu-Klea had been manifested by those responsible
for ordering events, the Mahdi would soon have become
only a picturesque figure to adorn a page or to point a
metaphor, and not the terrible portent of these latter
days, whose presence blasted every vestige of civilization
in the Soudan to ashes.

In order that I may make a fitting but brief intro-
duction to the suljject matter of this book, I nmst
necessarily glance at the events which led to the cry of
the last surviving Lieutenant of Gordon for help in his
close beleaguerment near the Equator.

To the daring project of Ismail the Khedive do we
owe the original cause of all that has befallen Egypt
and the Soudan. With 5,000,000 of subjects, and a
rapidly depleting treasury, he undertook the expansion
of the Egyptian Khediviate into an enormous Egyptian
Empire, the entire area embracing a superficial extent of
nearly 1,000,000 square miles — that is, from the Pharos
of Alexandria to the south end of Lake Albert, from
Massowah to the wescern boundary of Darfur.
Adventurers from Europe and from America resorted
to his capital to suggest the maddest schemes, and
volunteered themselves leaders of the wildest enter-
prises. The staid period when Egyptian sovereignty
ceased at Gondokoro, and the Nile was the natural drain
of such traffic as found its way by the gentle pressure
of slow development, was ended when Captains Speke
and Grant, and Sn- Samuel Baker brought their rapturous
reports of magnificent lakes, and regions unmatched for
fertility and productiveness. The termination of the
American Civil War threw numbers of military officers
out of employment, and many thronged to Egypt to
lend their genius to the modern Pharaoh, and to realize
his splendid dreams of empire. Englishmen, Germans,
and Italians, appeared also to share in the honours that
were showered upon the l)old and the ])rave.

While

reading

carefully and dispassionately the

ISMAIL THE KHEDIVE AND THE SOUDAN.

annals of this period, admiring the breadth of the
Khedive's views, the enthusiasm which possesses him,
the princely liberality of his rewards, the military
exploits, the sudden extensions of his power, and the
steady expansions of his sovereignty to the south, vvest,
and east, I am struck by the fact that his success as a
conqueror in Africa may well be compared to the
successes of Alexander in Asia, the only difference being
that Alexander led his armies in person, while Ismail
the Khedive preferred the luxuries of his palaces in
Cairo, and to commit his wars to the charge of his
Pashas and Beys.

To the Khedive the career of conquest on which he
has launched appears noble ; the European Press applaud
him ; so many things of grand importance to civilization
transpire that they chant pseans of praise in his honour ;
the two seas are brought together, and the mercantile
navies ride in stately columns along tlic maritime canal ;
railways are pushed towards the south, and it is
prophesied that a line will reach as far as Berber. But
throughout all this brilliant period the people of this
new empire do not seem to have been worthy of a
thought, except as subjects of taxation and as instru-
ments of supplying the Treasury ; taxes are heavier than
ever ; the Pashas are more mercenary ; the laws are more
exacting, the ivory trade is monopolised, and finally,
to add to the discontent already growing, the slave
trade is prohibited throughout all the territory where
Egyptian authority is constituted. Within five years
Sir Samuel Baker has conquered the Equatorial Province,
Munzinger has mastered Senaar, Darfur has ])een
annexed, and Bahr-el-Ghazal has been subjugated after a
most frightful waste of life. The audacity manifested
in all these projects of empire is perfectly marvellous —
almost as wonderful as the total al)sence of common
sense. Along a line of territory 800 miles in length
there are only three military stations in a country thai
can only rely upon camels as means of communication
except when the Nile is high.

In 1879, Ismail the Khedive having drawn too freely

IN DARKEST AFH1LA.

upon the banks of Europe, and increased the debt of
Egypt to £128,000,000, and unable to agree to the
restraints imposed by the Powers, the money of whose
subjects he had so liberally squandered, was deposed,
and the present Khedive, Tewfik, his son, was elevated to
his place, under the tutelage of the Powers. But
shortly after, a military revolt occurred, and at Kassassin,
Tel-el-Kebir, Cairo, and Kafr Dowar, it was crushed by
an English Army, 13,000 strong, under Lord Wolseley.
During the brief sovereignty of Arabi Pasha, who
headed the military revolt, much mischief was caused
by the withdrawal of the available troops from the
Soudan. While the Eno;li.sh General was defeatino-
the rebel soldiers at Tel-el-Kebir, the Mahdi Mohamet -
Achmet was proceeding to the investment of El Obeid.
On the 23rd of August he was attacked at Duem
with a loss of 4500. On the 14th he was repulsed by
the garrison of Obeid, with a loss, it is said, of 10,000
men. These immense losses of life, which have been
continuous from the 11th of August, 1881, when the
Mahdi first essayed the task of teaching the populations
of the Soudan the weakness of Egyptian power, were
from the tribes who were indifferent to the i-eligion
professed by the Mahdi, but who had been robbed
by the Egyptian officials, taxed beyond endurance by
the Government, and who had been prevented from
obtaining means by the sale of slaves to pay the taxes,
and also from the hundreds of slave- trading caravans,
whose occupation was taken from them by their energetic
suppression by Gordon, and his Lieutenant, Gessi Pasha.
From the 11th of August, 1881, to the 4th of March,
1883, when Hicks Pasha, a retired Indian officer, landed at
Khartoum as Chief of the Staft' of the Soudan army, the
disasters to the Government troops had been almost one
unbroken series ; and, in the meanwhile, the factious
and mutinous army of Egypt had revolted, been sup-
pressed and disbanded, and another army had been
reconstituted under Sir Evelyn Wood, which was not to
exceed 6000 men. Yet aware of the tremendous power
of the Mahdi, and the combined fanaticism and hate,

THE MAIIDI, MOHAMET-ACIIMET.

amounting to frenzy, which possessed his legions, and of
the insta])ility, the indiscipline, and cowardice of his
troops — while pleading to the Egyptian Government for
a reinforcement of 5000 men, or for four battalions of
General Wood's new army — Hicks Pasha resolves upon
the conquest of Kordofan, and marches to meet the
victorious Prophet, while he and his hordes are Hushed
with the victory lately gained over Obeid and Bara.
His staff, and the very civilians accompanying him, pre-
dict disaster ; yet Hicks starts forch on his last journey
with a body of 12,000 men, 10 mountain guns, 6 Nor-
denfelts, 5500 camels, and 500 horses. They know that
the elements of weakness are in the force ; that many of
the soldiers are peasants taken from the fields in Egypt,
chained in gangs ; that others are Mahciists ; that there
is dissension between the officers, and that everything is
out of joint. But they march towards Obeid, meet the
]\Iahdi's legions, and are annihilated.

England at this time directs the affairs of Egypt with
the consent of the young Khedive, whom she has l)een
instrumental in placing upon the almost royal throne of
Egypt, and whom she is interested in protecting. Pier
soldiers are in Egypt ; the new Egyptian army is under
an English General ; her military police is under the
command of an English ex-Colonel of cavalry ; her
Diplomatic Agent directs the foreign policy ; almost all
the principal offices of the State are in the hands of
Englishmen.

The Soudan has been the scene of the most fearful
sanguinary encounters between the ill-directed troops of
the Egyptian Government and the victorious tril)es
gathered under the sacred banner of the Mahdi ; and
unless firm resistance is off'jred soon to the advance of
the Prophet, it becomes (-lear to many in England that
this vast region and fertile basin of the Upper Nile will
be lost to Egypt, unless troops and money l)e furnished
to meet the emergency. To the view of good sense it
is clear that, as England has undertaken to direct the
government and manage the affairs of Egypt, she cannot
avoid declaring her policy as regards the Soudan. To a

7^ DARKEST AFRICA.

.\\\<

fjuestion addressed to the English Prime Minister in
Parliament, as to whether the Soudan was regarded as
forming a part of Egypt, and if so, whether the British
Government would take steps to restore order there,
Mr. Gladstone replied, that the Soudan had not been
included in the sphere of English operations, and that
the Government was not disposed to include it wdthin
the sphere of English responsibility. As a declaration
of policy no fault can be found with it ; it is Mr. Glad-
stone's policy, and there is nothing to be said against it
as such ; it is his principle, the principle of his associates
in the Government, and of his party, and as a principle
it deserves respect.

The Political Agent in Egypt, Sir Evelyn Baring,
while the fate of Hicks Pasha and his army was still
unknown, but suspected, sends repeated signals of warn-
ing to the English Government, and suggests remedies
and means of averting a final catastrophe. " If Hicks
Pasha is defeated, Khartoum is in danger ; by the fall of
Khartoum, Egypt will be menaced."

Lord Granville replies at various times in the months
of November and December, 1883, that the Government
advises the abandonment of the Soudan within certain
limits ; that the Egyptian Government must take the
sole responsibility of operations beyond Egypt Proper ;
that the Government has no intention of employing
British or Indian troops in the Soudan ; that ineffectual
efforts on the part of the Egyptian Government to secure
the Soudan would only increase the danger.

Sir Evelyn Baring notified Lord Granville that no
persuasion or argument availed to induce the Egyptian
Minister to accept the policy of abandonment. Cherif
Pasha, the Prime Minister, also informed Lord Granville
that, according to Valentine Baker Pasha, the means at
the disposal were utterly inadequate for coping with the
insurrection in the Soudan.

Then Lord Granville replied, through Sir Evelyn
Baring, that it was indispensable that, so long as Eng-
lish soldiers provisionally occupied Egypt, the advice
of Her Majesty's Ministers should be followed, and that

BAKER PASHA'S DEFEAT AT TOKAR.

ivelyn

,s Eng-

advice

id that

he insisted on its adoption. The Egyptian Ministers
were changed, and Nubar Pasha became Prime Minister
on the 1 0th January, 1884.

On the 17th December, Valentine Baker departed from
Egypt for Suakim, to commence military operations
for the maintenance of communication Ijetween Suakim
and Berber, and the pacification of the tri})es in that
region. While it was absolutely certain in England that
Baker's force would suffer a crushing defeat, and sus-
pected in Egypt, the General does not seem to be aware
of any danger, or if there be, he courts it. The Khedive,
fearful that to his troops an engagement will l)e most
disastrous, writes privately to Baker Pasha : "I rely on
your prudence and ability not to engage the enemy
except under the most favoural)le conditions." Baker
possessed ability and courage in abundance ; \)\xt tlie
event proved that prudence and judgment were as absent
in his case as in that of the unfortunate Hicks. His
force consisted of 3746 men. On the 6th of February he
left Trinkitat on the sea shore, towards Tokar. After a
march of six miles the van of the rebels was encountered,
and shortly after the armies were engaged. It is said
" that the rebels displayed the utmost contempt for the
Egyptians ; that they seized them l)y the neck and cut
their throats ; and that the Government troops, paralysed
Ijy fear, turned their backs, submitting to be killed rather
than attempt to defend their lives ; that hundreds threw
away their rifle?; knelt dowm, raised their clasped hands,
and prayed for mercy."

The total number killed was 2373 out of 3746. Mr.
Royle, the excellent historian of the Egyptian cam-
paigns, says : " Baker knew, or ought to have known, the
composition of the troops he commanded, and to take
such men into action was simply to court disaster."
What ought we to say of Hicks ?

We now come to General Gordon, who from 1874 to
1876 had been working in the Upper Soudan on the
lines commenced by Sir Samuel Baker, conciliating
natives, crushing slave caravans, destroying slave sta-
tions, and extending Egyptian authority by lines of

VOL. I. C

IN DARKKtiT AFRICA.

fortified forts up to the Alltert Nyanzn. After four
months' retirement he was appointiMl ({overnor-lieneral
of the Sou(hin, of Darfur, and the h^ipiatorial I'rovinces.
Amon*;' others wlioni (Jordon employed as ( Jovernors of
these various provinces under liis Vice-reoaKJovernnient
was one Edward Schnitzler, a German born in Oppehi,

fB^'^>ew:*Pl'

EMIN PASHA.

Prussia, 28th March, 1840, of Jewisli parents, who liad
seen service in Turkey, Armenia, Syria, and Ara])ia, in
the suite of Ismail Hakki Pasha, once Governor-General
of Scutari, and a Mushir of the Empire. Gn the death
of his patron he had departed to Niesse, where his
mother, sister, and cousins lived, and where he stayed
for several months, and thence left for Egypt. He, in

GENERAL UOUDON ASD EDWAlil) tiVllSlT/.LER. 11)

,vho had
ruhia, in
-General
le death
lere liis
stayed
He, in

1875, tluMice travelled to Khartoum, and being a ni('di<al
doctor, was employed l)y (lordon Paslui in tliut cajjacity.
lie assumed the name and title of l^^inin KtTeudi Jlakim
— the faithful {)hysician. He was sent to Lado as store-
keeper and doctor, was afterwards despatcluMl to King
Mtesa on a political mission, recalled to Khartoum,,
again desj)atched on a sinular mission to King Kaliha-
Rega of I'nyoro, and finally, in 1878, was [)rom()ted to
Bev, and appointed (Jovernor of the K(juatoriaI Pro-
vince of IJa-tal-aMiva, which, rendered into Knglish,
means Ecjuatoria, at a salary of ,£.")() pei- month. A
mate of one of the Peninsular and Oriental steamerS;
called Lupton, was promoted to the rank of (Jovernor
of the Province of Bahr-el-(j!hazal, which adjoined
Equatoria.

On hearing of the (k'position of Ismail in 1879,
Gordon surrendered his high otHc(! in the hands of
Tewfik, the new Khedive, informing him that he did not
intend to resume it.

in 1880 he accepted the post of Secretary un<ler the
^laiNjuis of Rip(m, hut resigned it within a month.

In 1881 he is in Mauritius as Commandant of the
Royal Engineers. In about two months he al)andons
that post to proc^eed to the assistance of the Cape
authorities in their difticultv with the Basutos, but, after
a little experience, finds himself unable to agree with
the views of the Cape Government, and resigns.

Meantime, I have ])een labouring on the Congo River.
Our successes in that immense territory of Western
Africa have expanded into responsibilities so serious
that tliev threaten to become unmanao;eable. When I
visit the Lower Coiifjo affairs })ecome deran<!;ed on the
Cpper Congo ; if I confine myself to the Upper Congo
there is friction in the Lower Congo. Wherefore, feeling
an intense interest in the growth of the territory which
was rapidly developing into a State, I suggested to His
]\Iajesty King Leopold, as early as September, 1882, and
again in the spring of 1883, that I required as an
associate a person of merit, rank, and devotion to work,
such as General Gordon, \vho would undertake either

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

the manao;ement oi the Lower or Upper Congo, while I
would work in the other section, as a vast amount of
valual)le time was consumed in travelling up and down
from one to the other, and young officers of stations
were so apt to take advantage of my absence. His
Majesty promised to request the aid of General Gordon,
but for a long time the replies were unfavourable.
Unally, in the spring of 1884, I received a letter in
General (xordon's well-known handwriting, which in-
formed me I was to expect him by the next mail.

It appears, however, that he had no sooner mailed
his letter to me and parted from Ilis Majesty than he
was besieged by applications from his countrymen to
assist the Egyptian Government in extricating the
])eleaguered garrison of Khartcnim from their impending
fate. Personally I know nothing of what actually
happened when he was ushered by Lord Wolseley into
the presence of Lord Granville, but I have been in-
formed that General Gordon was confident he could
perform the mission entrusted to him. There is a
serious discrepancy in the definition of this mission.
The Egyptian authorities were anxious for the evacua-
tion of Khartoum only, and it is possible that Lord
Granville only needed Gordon's services for this humane
mission, all the other garrisons to be left to their fate
l)ecause of the supposed impossibility of rescuing them.
The Blue Books which contain the official despatches
seem to confirm the probability of this. But it is
certain that Lord Granville i structed General Gordon
to proceed to Egypt to rep( rt on the situation of the
Soudan, and on the best measures that should ))e taken
for the security of the Egyptian garrisons (in the plural),
and for the safety of the European population in
Khartoum. He was to perform such other duties as
the Egyptian Government might wish to entrust to him.
He was to be accompanied by Colonel Stewart.

Sir Evelyn Baring, after a prolonged conversation
with Gordon, gives him his final instructions on behalf of
the British (Jovernment.

A precis of these is as follows : —

rec

f(>]i(

dcs
wire

toil)

to s
peif

*
not s

(.'IISV

in tlic

GENERAL OOIiDON AND KHARTOUM.

rliile 1
uiit of
L down
tations
, His
Jordon,
»ural)le.
^tter in
icli in-
mailed
tlian he
men to
ing tlie
pending
actually
jley into
been in-
le could

ere is si
mission.
1 evaeua-
lat Lord

I humane
heir iiite
ng them.

spatches
5ut it is

II Gordon
)ii of the

1)0 taken
e plural),
lation in
duties as
t to him.

Iivei'sation
ll behalf of

1. " EiiPiire retreat of the European population from 10,000 to 15,000
people, and of the garrison of Kartoum.' *

2. " Yon know best the when and how to elfect tliis."

3. "You \\\\\ bear in mind that the main end (of your Mission) is
the evacuation of tlie Soudan."'

■4. " As jou are of opinion it could be done, endeavour to make a
I confederation of the native tribes to take the place of Egyptian authority."

■§, 5. " A credit of £100,000 is opened for you at the Finance Departntent."

Gordon has succeeded in infusing confidence in the
minds of the Egyptian Ministry, who were previously
panic-stricken and cried out for the evacuation of
Khartoum only. They breathe freer after seeing and
liearing him, and according to his own request they
invest him with the Governor-Genendship. The firman,
given him, empowers him to evacuate the respective
territories (of the Soudan) and to withdraw the troops,
ci\il otHcials, and such of the inhabitants as wish to
leave for Egypt, and if possible, after completing the
e^'acuation (and this was an absolute impossibility) he
was to establish an organized Government. With these
instructions Lord Granville concurs.

I am told that it was understood, however, that he
was to do what he could — do everything necessary, in
fact, if possible ; if not all the Soudan, then he was to
proceed to evacuating Khartoum only, without loss of
time. But this is not on official record until Mar('h
23rd, 1884, and it is not known whether he ever
received this particular telegram. f

(Tcneral (lordon proceeded to Khartcnmi on -lanuary
-()th, 1884, and arrived in that city on the 18th of the
following month. During his journey he sent frecpient
• lespatches by telegraph abounding in confidence. JVlr.
Po\v(>r, the acting consul and Times correspondent,
wiri'd the following despatch — "The p'H)ple (of Khar-
toum) are devoted to General ( Jordon, whose design is
to save the garrison, and for ever leave the Soudan — as
[)eribrcc it must be left — to the Soudanese.

■J
%

* Xi). 2 claslii's with No. H somewhat. Khartoum and the Soudan arc
not synonymous terms. To witlidraw tlu; garrison of Khartoum is an

son.
find

easy task, to evacuate the Soudan is an impossibility for a singU^ persi
t Tliis is the only clearly worded desi)atch that 1 have been able to
ill the IJlue Book of the period

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

The English press, which had lieen so wise reapecting
the chances of Valentine Baker Paslia, were very much
in the condition of the people of Khartoum, that is,
devoted to General Gordon and sanguine of his success
He had performed such wonders in China — he had
laboured so effectually in crushing the slave-trade in
the Soudan, he had won the affection of the sullen
Soudanese, that the press did not deem it at all
improl)a])le that Gordon w4th his white wand and six
servants could rescue the doomed garrisons of Senaar,
Bahr-el-Ghazal and Equatoria — a total of 29,000 men,
besides the civil employees and their wives and families ;
and after performing that more than herculean —
nay utterly impossible task — establish an organized
Government.

On February 29th Gordon telegraphs, " There is not
much chance of improving, and every chance is getting
worse," and on the 2nd of the month " I have no option
about staying at Khartoum, it has passed out of my
hands." On the 16th Marcli he predicts that before
long " we shall l)e blocked." At the latter end of Marcli
he telegraphs, " We have provisions for five months, and
are hemmed in."

It is clear that a serious misunderstanding had
occurred in the drawing up of the instructions by
Sir Evelyn Baring and their comprehension of them l)y
General ( cordon, for the latter expresses himself to the
former thus : —

" You ask me to state cause and reason of my intention
for my staying at Khartoum. I stay at Khartoum
because Arabs have shut us up, and will not let us out."

iMfantnne public opinion urged on the British Govern-
ment the necessity of despatching an Expedition to
withdrnw General (lordon from Khartoum. But as it
was undeistood between (Jeneral (lordon and Lord
Granville that the former's mission was for the purpose
of dispensing with the services of British troops in the
Soudan, and as it was its declared })()licy not to employ
English or Indian troops in that region, the (Jovernment
were naturally reluctant to yield to the demand of the

OENEBAL GORDON AND KHARTOUM.

ecting
much
lat is,
access
e liatl
ade in
sullen
at all
md six
Senaar,
men,
imilies ;
ilean —
cranized

\ is not
getting
3 option
of my
t before
»f Marc^li
ths, and

uig

liad
ions by
tliem l)y
If to the

utcntion
hai'toum
lis out."
(lovern-
lition to
3ut as it
lid Lord
purpose
)s in the
o employ
vernment
lid of the

public. At last, however, as the clamour increased and
Parliament and public joined in affirming that it was a
duty on the country to save the ])rave man who had so
willingly volunteered to perform such an important
service for his country, Mr. Gladstone rose in the H(3use
of Commons on the 5th August to move a vote of
credit to undertake operations for the relief of (cordon.

Two routes were suggested by which the Relief
Expedition could approach Khartoum — the short cut
across the desert from Suakim to Berl)er, and the other
by the Nile. Gordon expressed his preference for that
up the Nile, and it was this latter route that the
C(mimanding General of the Relief Expedition adopted.

On the 18th September, the steamer "Abbas," with
Colonel Stewart (Gordon's companion), Mr. Power, the
Times correspondent, Mr. Herbin, the P'rench Consul,
and a number of Greeks and Egyptians on board — forty-
four men all told — on trying to pass by the cataract
of Abu Haniid was wrecked in the cataract. The Ara])s
on the shore invited them to land in peace, but unarmed.
Stewart complied, and he and the two Consuls (Power
and Herl)in) and Hassan Effendi went ashore and entered
a house, in which they were immediately murdered.

(_)n the 17th November, Gordon reports to Lcu-d
Wolseley, who was then at Wady Haifa, that he can hold
out for forty days yet, that the jNhdidists are to the
south, south-west, and east, but not to the north of
Khartoum.

By Christmas Day, 1884, a great part of the Expedi-
tioiiarv Force was assem])led at Korti. So far, the ad-
vance of the Expedition liad l)een as rapid as the energy
and skill of the General commanding couhl command.
Pn)l)ably there never was a force so numerous animated
with such noble ardour and passion as this under Lord
Wolseley for the rescue of that noble and solitary
Englishman at Khartoum.

Gn December 30th, a part of General Herbei't Stewart's
force moves from Korti towards (iakdul Wells, with
201)9 camels. In 4() hours and 50 ininutes it has
reached Gakdul Wells ; 1 1 hours later Sir Herbert Stewart

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

with all the camels starts on his return journey to Korti,
which place was reached January 5th. On the 12th
Sir Herbert Stewart was back at Gakdul Wells, and
at 2 p.m. of the 1 3th the march towards Abu Klea was
resumed. On the 17th, the famous battle of Abu
Klea w^as fouoht, resulting in a liard-won victory to the
English troops, \\\t\\ a loss of 9 officers and 65 men
killed and 85 wounded, out of a total of 1800, while
1100 of the eneni}' lay dead before the square. It ap-
pears probable that if the 3000 English sent up the
Nile Valley had been with this gallant little force, it
would have been a mere walk over for the English aimy.
After another battle on the 19th near jMetammeh, Vv'here
20 men were killed and GO wounded of the English, and
250 of the enemy, a village on a gravel terrace near the
Nile was occupied. On the 21st, four steamers belonging
to Oeneral Gordon appeared. The officer in command
stated that they had been lying for some weeks near an
island awaiting the arrival of the British column. The
22nd and 23rd were expended by Sir Chas. Wilson in
making a reconnaissance, building two forts, changing the
crews of the steamers, and preparing fuel. On the 24th.
two of the steamers started for Khartoum, carrying only
20 English soldiers. On the 26th two men came aljoard
and reported that there had been fighting at Khartoum ;
on the 27tli a man cried out from the l)ank that the town
had fallen, and that Gordon had been killed. The next day
the last news was confirmed by another man. Sir Charlea
Wilson steamed on until his steamers became the target
of cannon from Omdurman and from Khartoum, besides
rities from a distance of from 75 to 200 yards, and turned
back only when convinced tliat the sad news was only
too true. Steaming down river then at full speed he
reached Tamanieb when he halted for the night. From
here he sent out two messengers to collect news. One
returned saying that he had met an Arab who informed
him that Khartoum had been entered on the night of the
26th January through the treachery of Farag Paslia, and
that Gordon was killed ; that the Mahdi had on the next
day entered the city and had gone into a mos(|ue to re-

BATTLE OF ABU KLEA AND NEWS OF GOIWON S DEATH. 25

ECorti,
12th
,, and
a was
Alui
to the
I men
while
It ap-
ip the
rce, it
a) my.
where
h, and
iar the
onging
nmand
lear an
. The
[son in
ing the
e 24th.
only
aljoard
rtoum ;
e town
xt day
'harlea
target
3esides
turned
only
•eed he
From
One
formed
of the
ha, and
le next
3 to re-

turn thanks and had then retired, and had given the city
up to three days' pillage.

In Major Kitchener's report we find a summary of the
results of the taking of Khartoum. " The massacre in
the town lasted some six hours, and about 4000 persons
at least were killed. The Bashi Bazouks and white
regulars numbering 3327, and the Shaigia irregulars
numbering 2330, were mostly all killed in cold blood
after they had surrendered and been disarmed." The
surviving inhabitants of the town were ordered out, and
as they passed through the gate were searched, and then
taken to Omdurman where the women were distributed
among the Mahdist chiefs, and the men were stripped and
turned adrift to pick a living as they could. A (Treek
merchant, who escaped from Khartoum, reported that the
town was betrayed by the merchants there, who desired
to make terms with the enemy, and not by Farag Pasha.

Darfur, Kordofan, Senaar, Bahr-el-Ghazal, Khartoum,
had been possessed by the enemy ; Kassala soon followed,
and throughout the length and breadth of the Soudan
there now remained only the Equatorial Province, whose
Governor was Emin Bey Hakim — the Faithful Pli\'sician.

Naturall , if English people felt that they were in
duty bound to rescue their brave countryman, and a
gallant General of such genius and reputation as Gordon,
they would feel a lively interest in the fate of the last of
Gordon's Governors, who, by a prudent Fabian policy,
it was supposed, had evaded the late which had l)ofallen
the armies and garrisons of the Soudan. It follows also
that, if the English were solicitous for the salvation of
the garrison of Khartoum, they would feel a propor-
tionate solicitude for the fate of a brave officer and his
little army in the far South, and that, if assistance could
be rendered at a reasonable cost, there would be no
difficulty in raising a fund to effect that desirable ol)jc('t.

On November IG, 1884, Emin Bey informs Mr. A. M.
Maekay, the missionary in Uganda, by letter written at
Lado, that "the Soudan has become the theatre of an
insurrection ; that for nineteen months he is without
news from Khartoum, and that thence he is led t(j

! -^

■(

'piri;

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

I* '

^ «!;

believe that the town has been taken by the insurgents,
or that tlie Nile is blocked " ; but he says : —

" Whatever it proves to be, please inform your correspondents and
thron^h them the Egyptian Government that to tliis day we are well, and
that we proi)ose to hold out until help may reach us or until we perish."

A second note from Emin Bey to the same nnssionary,
on the same date as the preceding, contains the fol-
lowing : —

" The Bahr-Ghazal Province being lost and Lupton Bey, the povornor,
carried away to Kordot'an, we are unable to inform our Government of
what happens here. For nineteen months we have had no communication
from Khartoum, so I suppose the river is blocked up,"

" Please therefore inform the Egyptian Government by some means tliat
we are well to this day, but greatly in need of help. We shall hold out
until we obtain such help or until we perish."

To Mr. Charles H. Allen, Secretary of the Anti-
Slavery Society, Emin Bey writes from Wadelai, De-
cenil)er 31, 1885, as follows : —

"Ever since the month of May, 1883, we have been cut oif from all
communication with the world. Forgotten, and abandoned by the
Government, we have been compelled to make a virtue of necessity.
Since the occupation of the Bahr-Ghazal we have lx;en vigorously
attacked, and I do not know how to describe to you the admirable
devotion of my black troops throughout a long war, which for them at
least, has no advantage. Deprived of the most necessary things for a long
time without any pay, my men fought valiantly, and when at last
hunger weakened them, when, after nineteen days of incredible privation
and sutTorings, their strength was exhausted, and when the last torn
leather of the last boot had been eaten, then they cut away through the
midst of their enemies and siicceeded in saving themselves. All this
hardship was undergone without the least arriPre-pemee, without even the
hope of any appreciable reward, ])rompted only by their duty and the
desire of showing a proper valour before their enemies."

This is a noble record of valour and military virtue.
I rememljer the appearance of this letter in the Times,
and the impression it made jn myself and friends. It
was only a few days after the appearance of this letter
that we began to discuss ways and means of relief for
the wiiter.

The following letter also impressed me very strongly.
It is written to Dr. R. W. Felkin on the same date,
December 31, 1885.

* * Hi )|i Id III

" You will probably know through the daig T>apers tha: poor Lupton,

li '

LETTERS FROM EMIN BEY IN 1%S^-Q.

nftcr having bravely held the Bahr-Ghazal Province was compelled, tlirough
the treachery of his own people, to surrender to the emissaries of the late
Madhi, and was carried by tliem to Kordofaij."

" My province and also myself I only saved from a like fate by a
stratagem, but at last I was attacked, and many losses in both men and
ammunition were the resiilt, until 1 delivered such a heavy blow to the
reliels at Itimo, in Makraka. that compelled them to leave me alone.
Before this took place they informed us that Khartoum tell, in January,
]885, and that Gordon was killed."

" Naturally on account of these occurrences 1 have been compelled to
evacuate our more distant stations, and withdiaw our soldiers and their
families, still hoping that our Government will send us helji. It seems,
however, that 1 have deceived myscll, for since April, 1883, 1 have
received no news of any kind from the north."

" The Government in Khartoum did not hehavewell tons. Before they
evacuated Fashoda, they ought to have remembered that Government
officials were living here (Equatorial Provinces) who had i)erforraed
their duty, and had not deserved to be left to their fate without more
ado. Even if it were the intention of the Government to deliver us over
to our fate, the least they could have done was to have released us from
our duties ; we should then have known that we were considered to have
become valueless."

" Anyway it was necessary for ns to seek some way of escape, and in
the first i)lace it was urgent to send news of our existence in Egypt.
With this object in view I went south, after having made the necessary
arrangements at Lado, and came to Wadelai."

Hi * ll> * K< >l<

" As to my future ])lans, I intend to hold this country as long as
possible. 1 hope that when our letters arrive in Eg\ pt, in seven or eiglit
months, a reply will be sent to me via Khartoum or Zanzibar. If the
Egyptian Government still exists in the Soudan we naturally expect
them to send us help. If, however, the Soudan has been evacuated, I
shall take the whole of the people towards the south. I shall then send
the whole of the Egyjitian and Khartoum othcials r/ct Uganda or Karagwe
to Zanzibar, but shall remain myself with my black troo))s at Kabba-
Rege's until the (iovernnient inform me as to their wishes."

This is very clear tluit Emiii Paslia at this time
proposed to relieve himself of the Egyptian ofhcials,
and that he himself ony intended to remain until the
Eoyptian Government could (tonmiunicate to him its
wishes. Those " wishes " were that lie should abandon
his province, as they were unable to maintain it, and
take advantage of the escort to leave Africa.

In a letter written to JMr. ^lackay dated July 6tli,
1886, Emin says : —

" In the first place believe me that I am in no hurry to break away
from here, v^r to leave those countries in which I have now laboured for
ten years."

♦ ♦*♦♦*

" All my people, but esi^ecially the negro troops, entertain a strong

|9Bi

M**^ ■«'»'■ ■ ■

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

objection against a march to the south and thence to Egypt, and mean to
remain here until they can be taken north. Meantime, if no danger
overtakes us, and onr ammunition holds out for some time longer, I mean
to follow your advice and remain here nntil help comes to us from some
quarter. At all events, you may rest assured that we ■will occasion no
disturbance to you in Uganda."

" I shall determine on a march to the coast only in a case of dire
necessity. There are, moreover, two other routes before me. One from
Kabba-llega's direct to Karagwe ; the other v!a Usongora to the stations
at Tanganika. I hope, however, that I shall have no need to make use of
either."

" My people have become impatient through long delay, and are
anxiously looking for help at last. It would also be most desirable that
some Commissioner came here from Eurojje, either direct by the Masai
route, or from Karagwe via, KabbaRega's country, in order that my people
may actually see that there is some interest taken in them. I would
defray with ivory all expenses of such a Ccmimission."

" As I once more repeat, I am ready to stay and to hold these
countries as long a" I can until help comes, and I beseech you to do what
you can to hasten the arrival of such assistance. Assure iNIwanga that he
has nothing to fear from me or my people, and that as an old friend of
Mtesa's I have no intention to trouble him."

In the above letters we have Emin Bey's views,
wherein we gather that his people are loyal — that is
they are obedient to his commands, but that none of
them, judging from the tenour of the letters, express ,
any inclination to return to Egypt, excepting ^he
Eg}^ptians. He is at the same time pondering upe u
the routes by which it is possible to retreat — elsewhere
he suggests the Monbuttu route to the sea ; in these
letters he hints at Masai Land, or through Unyoro,
and west of Uganda to Usongora, and thence to Tan-
ganika 1 If none of the black troops intended to follow
him, he certainly could not have done so with only the
Egyptian officials and their families.

From the following letters from the Consul-Oeneral,
F. Holmwood, to Sir Evelyn Baring, dated September
25th and September 27th, we gather Mr. Holmwood's
views, who, from his position and local knowledge,
was very competent to furnish information as to what
could be done in the way of the proposed relief.

" In Emin's letters to me he only reports his situation up to 27th
February, 188G, when he proposed evacuating his province by detach-
ments, the first of which he proposed to despatch at the close of the rains
toward the end of July; but both Dr. Junker and Mr. Mackay inform nie

EM IN BEY'S VIEWS OF II J S PEOPLE.

the

leneval,

ml)er

wood s

ledge,

what

that they have since heard from Eiiiin tliat tlie majority of the 4000
loyal Egyptian subjects who have remained faithful to Egypt throughout,
and h ive supported him in the face of tlio constant attacks from the
Mahdi's adherents, aggravated by an imminent danger of starvation,
refuse to leave their country, and he had therefore detcrniired, if he
could possibly do so, to remain at his post, and continue to protect
Egyptian interests till r jlief arrived."

******

" Wore Uganda freed from this tyrant (Mwanga), the Equatorial
Province, even should the present elementary system of communication
remain unmoditied, would be witliin eight weeks' ])ost of Zanzibar, and a
safe depot on the Albert Nyanza would provide a base for any further
operations that might be decided urwrn."

" Dr. Junker states that the country to the east of the Ripon Fallf**
has proved impracticable, and that Emin has lost many trdops in e)i-
deavouring to open communication through it. If such be the case the
alternative line by which Dr. Fischer tried to relieve Junker, and which
I believe he still recommends, could not be relied on for turning Uganda
and its eastern dependency, and the well-known route vhi Uganda would
be the only one available tor an Expedition of moderate size."

" As far as I am able to judge, without making any special calculation,
I consider that 1200 porters would be the smallest number that v.-.rald
suffice, and a well-armed guard of at least 500 natives would be

necessary."

* * * * * *

" General Matthews, whom I had consulted as to the force necessary
for the safety of the Expedition, is of opinion that I have formed far too
low an estimate, but after weighing the testimony of many experienced
persons acquainted with Uganda, I must adhere to my opinion that 500
ll,ltl^•o troops armed with modern rifles and under experienced persons,
Mould, )f supplemented by the irregular force, fully suffice."

An American officer of the Khedivial Government
writes to Mr. Portal, and suggests that communication
with Emin might be opened by the Zanzibar Arabs, but
that to send stores and ammunition to him was im-
possible ; that the Arabs might manage for his passage,
though his safest line of retreat was westward to reach
the Congo.

Mr. Fred Holm wood, in his despatch to the Foreign
Office of September 23rd, 1886, writes that, "had it
not been for the danoerous attitude of the Kino; of
Uganda, the question of relieving Emin would have
l)een merely one of expenditure to be settled at Cairo ;
but under present circumstances, many other serious
considerations are involved in it which will have to be
referred to Her Majesty's Government.

* This route would be through Masai Land.

■■^TiaW^'MMi

IN D AUK EST AFRICA.

" I would call attention to the at-eount contained in
Mr. Mackay's letter regarding the alternative route to
Wadelai which Dr. Fischer endeavoured to take and, I
believe, still recommends. If this statement be correct,
any attempt to turn Uganda or its Eastern dependency
by this unexplored line would pro])ably fail."

Mr. A. M. Mackay writes from Uganda, May 14th,
1886.—

" From Dr. Junker's letter you will have seen that Emin Bey has had
the good fortune to hi v^e secured the loyalty of the people he governs.
Eriiin seems to have learned Gordon's secret of securing the afiection of
his subjects, and has bravely stuck to them. There can be no doubt
at all but that had he been anxious to leave he would with a few hundred
of his soldiers have easily made a dash for the coast either through the
Masai Land or this way, asking no permi.ssion from Mwanga (King of
Uganda) or anyone else. He knows that there is no power here able to
stop him. In fact years ago he wrote me that it would be nothing
to him to storm this wretched village and drive off the cattle."'

" But what would be the fate of thousands of people who have
remained loyal on tlie Upper Nile ? Dr. Junker sjieaks of thousands.
They do not want to be taken out of their own fertile country, and taken
to the deserts of Upper Egypt.'

" Dr. Emin is on all hands allowed to be a wise and able Governor.
But he cannot remain for ever where he is, nor can he succeed himself,
even should the Mah<ii's troops leave him undisturbed in the future.
His peculiar position should be taken advantage of by our country, w hich
undertook to rescue the garrisons of the Soudan."

Hf * iti 4i Hi »■

" Mwanga's action with respect to the letters forwarded him for
Dr. Emin, was as disrespectful as possible to the British Government
which had received with such kindness his father's envoys. We asked
him merely to forward the letters in the first place until he should
receive word from Emin as to whether or not he was prepared to come
this way, but he detained your packet altogether."

In Mr. Mackay's letter to Sir John Kirk, June 28th,
1886, he says : —

" Dr. Fischer's difficulties would also only really begin after Kavirondo,
as he then had the country of the dreaded Bakedi to cross, and Dr.
Junker tells me that whole parties of Dr. Emin's soldiers have been
repeatedly murdered by them."

Dr. Fischer, it will be remembered, was engaged to
proceed to Equatoria in search of Dr. Junker by that
traveller's brother, and chose the road via East coast of
the Victoria Lake. Arriving at the N.E. corner of the
Lake he returned to the coast.

Mr. Mackay proceeds : —

LETTERS FROM MR. A. M. MAC KAY.

" Pr. Junker is living here with us. He brought mo a letter from Emin
Boy (lilted the 27th January (188G). He then proposed sending his people
at once this way — some 4000 — in small detachments. This policy would
Ix! fatal. He also asked me to go to meet liim with a view to bringing
here two steamers whicli otherwise he would have to abandon. One of
them he meant for tlie King, and the other for the mission."

" Since then, however, he finds that his peojjle, officers and men, refuse
to leave the Soudan, hence he is prepared to remain some years with
them provided only he can get supplies of cloth, etc."

Mr. Mackay always writes sensibly. I obtained a
great deal of solid information from these letters.

Naturally he writes in the full belief that Emin's
troops are loyal. We all shared in this l)elief. We
now see that we were grossly misled, and that at no
time could Emin have cut his way to the coast tlirougli
Uganda or any other country with men of such fibre as
his ignorant and stolid Soudanese.

Mr. Joseph Thomson, in a letter to the Times,
suggested a route through the Masai Land, and proposed
to be responsible for the safe conduct of a Relief Expe-
dition through that country.

j\Ir. J. T. Wills suggested that the Mobangi- Welle
would prove an excellent way to Emin.

Mr. Harrison Smith expressed himself assured that a
way by Abyssinia would ])e found feasible.

Another gentleman interested in the African Lakes
Company proposed that the Expedition should adopt
the Zambezi-Shire-Nyassa route, and thence via Tanga-
nika north to Muta Nzige and Lake All)ert, and a
missionary from the Tanganika warmly endorsed it, as
not presenting more difficulties than any other.

Dr. Felkin, in the ' Scottish Geographical Magazine,'
after examining several routes carefully, came to the
conclusion that a road west of Lake Victoria and Ka-
ragwe, through Usongora to Lake Albert, possessed
some advantao-es over anv other.

Early in October, 1886, Sir William Mackinnon and
Mr. J. F. Ilutton, ex-President of the Manchester
Chamber of Commerce, had spoken with me respecting
the possibiliti(is of conveying relief to Emin, with a
view to enable him to hold his own. To them it seemed
that he only required ammunition, and I shared their

7^ DARKEST AFRICA.

opinion, and they were very eurncst in their intention
to collect funds for tiie support he recjuired. But niuny
of their friends were absent from town, and they (;ould
not decide alone what should be done without consulta-
tion. We discussed estimates and routes, and Mr.
Hutton informs me that the rough estimate I furnished
him then exceeds by £500 the actual cost of the
Expedition.

As for routes, I intimated to them that there were
four almost equally feasible.

The first, via Alasai Land, was decidedly objectionable
while carrying a vast store of ammunition which abso-
lutely must rea(;li Emin. Mr Thomson had tiled it,
and his account of the extremities to which he was driven
on returning from the Lake Victoria, for want of water
and grain, were extremely unfavourable. In proceeding to
the lake his people were dispirited, and deserted in such
numbers that he was obliged to return a short distance,
to Kilima Njaro, lea\^e his camp there, and proceed with a
few men back to the coast to recruit more men. In case
of a pressing necessity like this it would be extremely
unwise to return a mile after commencnng the march.
The tendency of the Zanzibaris to desert also was
another disadvantage, and desertion of late from East
CV^ast Expeditions had assumed alarming proportions
owing to the impunity with which they could decamp
with rifles and loads, and the number of opportunities
presented to them. Many of the Zanzibaris had become
professional advance -jumpers, and the greater the
expedition the greater would be the loss in money,
riHes and stores.

The second, via Victoria Nyanza and Uganda, which
was naturally the best, was rendered impossible for a
small expedition because of the hostility of Uganda,
Even this hostility could be avoided if there were any
vessels on Lake Victoria capable of transporting across
the lake such an expedition as was needed. The danger
of desertion was just as imminent on this as on the first.

The third was via Msalala, Karagwe' and Ankori, and
Unyoro and Lake Albert. Immense loss of men and

houTKs sraaKsTi'Ji) ivu emis s niiUF.F.

ention
, many
' could
tiHulta-
d Mr.
L'lnslicd
of the

re were

tioiutble
li a])!^o-
Diied it,
8 driven
of water
eding to

in such
listance,
id with a

In case

tremely
march.

Iso was
lom East

portions
decamp

rtunities
become

ter the
money,

la, which
Kle for a
I Uganda,
Ivere any
lo- across
le danger
J the first.
|kori, and
len and

o-oods would assuHMlly follow any attempt tVoni the
Kast Coast, l^'ifty per (;cnt. loss was iniavoidaldc, and
no pi'ccautions woul<l avail to prevent ' desertion.
Besides, Karagwe was gai'iisoned hy the Waganda, and
no ex})edition could pass through that country without
persistent hostility from the Waganda. If fortunate
enou'di to for('C our wav throujih Karaowe, we should
have to reckon wtli the Wanyankori, who numher
200,000 spears, and if intnuUiced to them hy fighting
the Karagwe natives the outlook would })e dismal in the
extreme. As for going through any country west of
Karagw^ to avoid the Waganda that would be impos-
sible, ex(*cpt at a cost that I did not suppose the sub-
scril)ers would (contemplate paying.

'• The whole (juestion resolves itself into that of money.
With money enough every route is possible ; but as
I understand it, you propose to su])s('ribe a moderate
anumnt, and therefore here is only one route which
is safely open for the money, and that is the Congo.
This river has the disadvantafj^e of not havin<»' enouuh
transport vessels in its upper portion. I would propose
then to supplement the Upper Congo flotilla with
fifteen whale-boats, which will take an Expecbtion to
within 200 miles, at least, of the Albert Nyanza. A
heavy lal)our will l)e carrying the whale-boats from the
Lower (*ongo to the Upper, but we can easily manage
it l)y sending agents at once there to prepare carriers.
There is one thing, however, hat must be done — which
is to ol)tain the sanction of King Leopold.

' But it may be we are rather premature in dis-
cussing the matter at all. You know I am aware
of many projects mooted, and much 'talk' has been
expended on each and this may end in smoke — collect
your funds, and then call upon me if you want me.
If you do not re(|uire me after this exposition of
my views, let Thomson take his Expedition through
the Masai Land, and put me down for £500 subscrip-
tion for it."

As the middle of November drew near, Sir W^illiam
i\bickinnon requested me to write him a letter upon the

VOL. I. D

I J:'.

IN D AUK EST A Fine A.

subject that he might show it to his friends, who would
soon he returning to town.

A few days after the despatch of the letter, I sailed
for America, and on arrival at New York, the lecture
" Tour," as it is called, commenced. But on the
11 til Deceml)er, the fifteenth day after arrival, I received
the lollowing : — -

" London.
" Your plan iiiid offui aciopJcd. Authorities p|>prove. Funds provided.
Business urgent. Come pronii)tly. Eeply.

" MACKINNON."

A reply was sent from St. Johnsbury, Vermont, for
thus far the lecture tour had reached, as follows : —

• Just received Moi.'iay's cal)lep;riim. Many thanks. Everything,' all
right. Will sail per Kuh-r -t a.m. Wednesday morning. If good weather
and barring accidents arrive 2i2nd Deceml>er, Southampton. It is only
one month's delay after all. Tell tlic authorities to prepiro Holmwood
(Consul (ieneral) Zanzibar, aud Seyyid Barghash (Prince of Zaiizibar).
Be.st complimen s to you.

" Stanley."

My agent was in despair — the audiences were so kind
— the receptions were ovations, but arguments and
entreaties were of no avail.

I arrived in England the day preceding Christmas,
and within a few hours Sir William Mackinnon and
myself were discussing the Expedition.

Uf course, and without the least shade of doubt, I
was firmly convinced that the Congo River route was
infinitely the best and safest, provided that I should get
my flotilla of wiiaie-boats, and the permission of King
Leopold to pass through his teriiiory with an armed
force. I knew a route from the East Coast, and was
ecpuUly ac(piainted with that from the West Coast.
From the furthest point reached by me in 1870, along
the East (bast road, the distance was l)ut 100 miles
to Lake All)ert — from Yambuya Rapids the distance
was 322 geographical miles in an air line to the lake.
Yet to the best of my judgment the Congo route was
preferable We should have abundance of water —
which was so scanty and bad along the Eastern I'oute ;
food there must be ~ it was natural to expect it from my
knowledge that unsurpassed fertility such as the Upper

■1

~'^

''A

AN EMIN RELIEF FUND RAISED.

Congo regions possesses would luive been long ago

discovered by the aborigines, whereas we knew from

Thomson, Fischer, and Hannington's experiences that

food and water was scanty in Masai Land ; then again,

that wholesale desertion so frecjuent on the East Coast

would be avoided on the West C^oast,

Yet notwithstanding they admitted that I might l»e

light, it was the opinion of the Committee that it would

be best to adopt the Eastern route.

" Very good, it is jx;i fectly immaterial to me. Let \is decide on tlie East
Coast route, via Msalala, Knra^we, Aiikori, and Unyoro. If joii hear of
some hard-fighting, I look to yon that you will defend the absent. If I
could dro}) this ammunition in Emin's camp from a balloon I certainly
would do so, and avoid coming in contact with those warlike natives, liut
it is decided that the means of defence must be put into Emin's hautls,
and you have entrusted me with the escort of it. So be it."'

A Relief Fund was raised, the sul)scriptions to which
were as follows :— ^

Sir William Mackinnon, Bart. . . 2,000

Peter Mackinnon, Esq 1,000

John Mackinnon, Es(| 300

Baroness Burdett-Coutts .... 100

W. Burdett-Coutts, Esij 400

James 8. Jameson, Es(| 1,000

Countess de Xoailles 1,000

Peter Denny, Es([., of Duml)arton . 1,000
Henry Johnson Younger, Es(|., of the

Scottish Geographical Society . . 500
Alexander L. Bruce, Es(|., of the

Scottish Geographical Society . . 500

Messrs. Gi'ay, Dawes k Vo., of London 1,000

Duncan Mac Neil, Es(j 700

James F. Hutton, Es(j., of Manchester 250

Sir Thos. Fowell Buxton . . . . 250

James Hall, Es(|., of Argvleshire . . 250

N. Mc.Michael, Es(]., of Glasgow . . 250

Royal (Jeographical Society, London . 1,000

Egyptian Government .... 10,000

£21,500*
* See Ap))endix for full statement of Receipts and E.vpeuditurc.

JN DARKEST AFRICA.

'' -i;i

In order to increase the funds and create a provision
aijainst continojencies, I volunteered to write letters
from Africa, which the Committee might dispose of to
the press as they saw fit, and accept whatever moneys
that might receive as my contribution to it.

The estimate of time required to reach Emin Pasha,
after a careful calculation, was formed on the basis that
whereas I travelled in 1874-5 a distance of 720 miles
in 103 days, therefore : —

1st route. — By Masai Lanl, march to Wadelai and return to coast
14 months. Eoserve for delays 4 months = 18 months.

2nd route. — By Msalala, Karagwe, Ankori, and Usongora to Lake
Albert. Land march to and return 16 mouths, delays
4 months - 20 months.

3rd route. — Via Congo.

Zanzibar to Congo . . 1 mth. = 1st April, 1887
Overland route to Stanley Pool 1 ,, = 1st May „
By steam up the Congo . 1^ „ = 15th June „

Halt 25th „

Yambuya to Albert Nyanza. 3 mths = 2Jth Se])t., 1887

Halt 9th Jan., 1888

Albert Nyanza to Zanzibar,) o

land march
Delays

= 8th Sept.
= 18 months.

4'
^1

The actual time, however, occupied by the Expedition
is as follows : —

Arrive at Congo .....

„ „ Stanley Pool ....

„ „ Yambuya ....

Halt at Yambuya ....

Albert Nyanza .....

Return to Fort Bodo ....

Halt while collecting convalescents

The Albert Nyanza, 2ud time

Halt nniil ......

Fort Bodo again .....

Banalya 90 nn'les from Yambuya

Fort Bodo again .....

Albert Nyanza, 3rd time

Halt near Albert Nyanza until

March to Zanzibar, 1400 miles, G months.

So that we actually occupied a little over
Zanzibar to the Albert Nyanza, and
from the Nyanza to the Indian Ocean.

Halt at the Albert . . .

18th Mar.,

1887

21st Apr.

15th June

28th „

13th Dec.

8th Jan.,

1888

2nd Apr.

18th „

25th May

8th June

17th Aug.

20th Dec.

2Gth Jan.,

1889

8th May

.•'

Gth Dec.

))

lOi months from

„

li .,

Ai
in

d..
or(

PURCHASING GOODS FOR THE EXPEDITION.

.37

I was formally informed by letter <m the 31st of
December, 1886, that I might commence my preparations.

The first order I gave in connection with the Ex})edi-
tion for the relief of Eniin Bey was by ca])le to Zanzibar
to my agent, jMr. Edmund ^hickenzie, of Messrs. Smith,
^lackenzie & Co., to engage 200 Wanyamwezi porters
at Bagamoyo to convey as many loads of rice ( = 6 tons)
to the missionary station at Mpwapwa, which was about
200 miles east of Zanzibar, the cost of which was
2,700 rupees.

The second order, after receiving the consent of J I is
Highness the Seyyid of Zanzi])ar, was to enlist (iCO
Zanzibari porters, and also the purchase of the following
goods, to be used for barter for native provisions, such as
grain, potatoes, rice, Indian corn, bfuianas, plantains, etc.

865 „ (8 „ „

99 „ (8 „ „

80 „ (8 „ „

214 „ (8 „ „

107 „ (8 „ „

27 „ (8 „ „

121 „ (8 „ „

S8 „ (24 „ „

Hi) „ (H „ „

W „ (4 „

27 „ (4 „ „

^■1 „ (24 „ „

^8 „ (8 „ „

« „ (30 „ „

24 „ (4 „ „

^i ,, (4 „ „

21 „ (4 „ „

13 „ (4 „ „

3 „ (30 ,, „
24 long shirts, white

24 „ „ brown

Yanlj*.

) of 1 'own f-

hecting

. 12,000

) of kaniki

, ,

. C,920

) lian(lkcicl)iefs

792

) tanjii'i

040

) (labwaui

. 1,712

) Koliari

850

) siibaya

216

) Barhiati

968

) kuiigiiru

. 1,392

) ismaili

384

) kikoi .

952

) daolo .

).auah.

108

) vaiipi.

) lindera

) reliani

464

)joho .

180

) silk kikoi

) silk ilaole

) tine (labw

aiii

) sohari.

, ,

) fine sht'ctiug

Total yards

27,262

Also 3,600 lbs. of beads and 1 ton of wire, brass, copper,
iron.

The third order was for the pui-chase of forty pack
donkeys and ten riding asses, which necessitated an
order for saddles to match, at an expense of £400.

Messrs. Forrest & Son received a design and order

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

for the construction of u steel l)oat 28 ft, long, G ft.
l)eam, and 2 ft. 6 in. deep. It was to ])e built of
Siemens steel galvanized, and divided into twelve
section", each weighing about 75 11 )s. The fore and
aft sections were to be decked and watertight, to give
buoyancy in case of accident.

From Egypt were despatched to Zanzibar 510
Kemington riHes, 2 tons of gunpowder, 350 000 per-
cussion caps, and 100,000 rounds Remington tjnmuni-
tion. In England the War (Jffic^e furnished me with
30,000 (jatling cartridges, and from ^Messrs. Kynocli &
Co., 13irmingham, I received 35,000 special Remington
cartridges. Messrs. Watson & Co., of 4, Pall MnW,
packed up 50 Winchester repeaters and 50,000 Win-
chester cartridges. Iliram Maxim, the inventor of the
]\laxini Automatic. Gun, donated as a gift one of his
wonderful weapons, with shield attached mounted on
a light but effective stand.

We despatched to Zanzil)ar 100 shovels, 100 hoes,
foi- forming breastworks, 100 axes for palisading the
camp, 100 bill-hooks for building zeribas,

Messrs. Burroughs & Welcome, of Snowhill Buildings,
Jiondon, tlie well-known chemists, furnished gratis nine
beautiful chests replete with every medicament neces-
sary to combat the endemic, diseases peculiar to Afi'ica.
Evoy drug was in tablets mixed witli (juick solvents,
every compartment was well stocked with essentials for
the doctor and surgeon. Nothing was omitted, and we
all owe a deep debt of gratitude to these gentlemen, not
only for the intrinsic value of these chests and excellent,
medicines, but also for tlie personal selection of the liest
that L(jnd(m could furnish, and the supervision of the
packing, by which means we were enabled to transport
them to Yambuva without damaue.

]\Iessrs. John Edgington & Co., of Duke Street,
IiOn(h)n, took charge of our tents, and made them out
of canvas dipped in a preservative of sulphate of copper,
wliicli preserved them for three years. Notwithstanding
their exposure to three hundred days of I'ain, for the
fii'st time in my experience in Africa I possessed a tent

rVIiCIIASEti FOIi USE OF THE JiELlEF EXJ'EDJTJOX. 39

vvliieli, after arrival at Zaiizil)ar in 1889, was well able
to endure two hundred days more of rain.

Messrs. Fortnuni & Mason, v)f Piccadilly, packed up
forty carrier loads of choicest provis.onr. Every article
was superb, the tea retained its flavour to the last, the
rtoffee was of the purest Mocha, the Liebig Company's

CAPTAIN NELSON

Extract was of the ch<jicest, and the packing of all was
excellent.

I need not enumerate what else was purchased. Four
expeditions into Africa, with my old lists of miscellanea
l»"fore me, enabled me to choose the various articles,
iiiid in Sir Francis de Wintim and Captain (irant Elliott
I had valuable assistants who would know what

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

magazines to patronize, and who could check the
deliveries.

Colonel Sir Francis de Winton was my successor on
the Congo, and he gave me gratuitously and out of
pure friendship the benefit of his great experience, and
his masterly knowledge of business to assist me in the

LIEUTENANT STAIKS.

despatch of the various businesses connected with the
expedition, especially in answering letters, and selecting
out of the hundreds of eager applicants for memV)ership
a few officers to form a staff.

The first selected was Lieutenant W. Grant Stairs, of
the Royal Engineers, who had applied by letter. The
concise style and directness <jf the application appealed

SELECTION OE MY OEEK'EIiS.

strongly in liif^ favour. We sent for him, jukI after a
short interview enlisted him on condition that he could
olttain leave of al)sence. Lord Wolseley kindly granted
leave.

The next was Mr. William Bonny, who, having failed
iu his epistolary ventures on former expeditions, thought

MK. WILLIAM BONNY.

the best w^ay was to present himself in person for
service in any capacity. The gentleman would not
take a mild negative. His breast was covered with
medals. They spoke eloquently, though dumb, for his
merits. The end of it was ]\Ir. Bonny was engaged as
medical assistant, he having just left service in a
hospital of the A.M.D.

ame

IN DAIlKKSr AFRICA.

The third was Mr. John Rose Troup, wlio had per-
formed good service on the Congo. He was intimate
with Swahili, the vernacular of Zanzibar. He was not
dainty at work, was exact and methodical in preserving
accounts. Mr. Troup w*.^ engaged.

The fourth volunteer who presented himself was

MR. A. J MOINTENEY JEPHSON.

Major Edmund Musgrave Barttelot, of the 7th Fusileers.
He was accompanied by an ac<|uaintance of mine who
spoke highly of him. What passed at the interview will
be heard later on. After a few remtirks he was also
engaged.

I'he fifth was CViptain R. H. Nelson, of Methuen's
Horse, fairly distinguished in Zulu campaigns. There

A IWYAL LETTEIL

was merit in his very face. Captiiin Nelson agreed to
Biffn tlie articles of enlistment.

Our next volunteer was Mr. A. J. ]VIounteney Jephson,
inexperienced as yet in foreign travel, jind <|uite un-
accustomed to "roughing" in wilds. On some menihers
of the Committee Mr. Jephson made the impression
that he was unfitted for an expedition of this kind,
being in their opinion of too "high class." But the
Oountess de Noailles made a suhstn-iption in his favour
to the Relief Fund of £1,000, an argument that tlie
Committee could not resist, and Mr. Jephson signed the
articles of agreement with unshaken nerves. Poor
young Jephson I he emerged out of Africa after various
severe trials which are herein related.

One of the latest to apply, and when the list was
al»out to be closed, was Mr. James S. Jameson, lie
had travelled in Mashona and Mata])ele lands in Soutli
Africa to collect trophies of the wild chase, to study
birds, and to make sketches. He did not appear re-
markably strong. We urged that, but he as cpuckly
defended his slight appearance, and argued tha^ as he
had already spent a long time in Africa his experience
disproved our fears. Besides, he was willing to sub-
s(i'il)e £l .000 for the privilege of mem))ership, and do
faithful and loyal service, as though it was indispensable
for the Expediticni to employ him. JNIr. Jameson was
firm, and sul)scribed to tlie articles.

We were in the full swing of preparations to meet
the necessities of the overland march from Zanzibar
east to the Victoria Nyanza, when, as will V)e show!i hy
the tenor of the following letter, it became necessary
to reconsider our route.

" Palais de Brnxclles,
"^EAR Mu. Stanley, " 7tli January, 1887.

" The Congo State has notliiiif^ to pain by the Expedition for the
reliv of Eniin Pasha passinpj through its territory. Tlie K\\\\i h.as
snpjiested this road merely so as to lend your services to tlie Exjiedition,
which it would be impossible for him to do were the Expedition to
jiroceed oy the Eastern coast. According to your own estimate, the
Expedition proceeding by the Eastern coast would occiijjy about eighteen
months. Hi?. Majesty considers that he would be failing in his duty
towards the State were he to deprive it of your services, especially as the
latter will be certainly netdtd before the expiration of this lapse of time.

7.V DAL'KIJST A Fit IV A.

" If the Expedition proceeds hy tlie Congo tlie State will promise to
show it ill! f-'ood will. The State iik(^wise fj;nitiiitously i)liices at the
disposal of tlie Expedition tlie whole of its naval stock, inasnnieh as will
allow the working arrangements of its own administration, which it is,
above al., desirons of ensnring, as j-ou know. The Staulr// is tlie largest
steamer on tlm Tiiper Congo. We are forwarding a seccmd one by the
mail of the 15in inst , and we will hasten as much as possible the
launching of this steamer at Stanley Pool; she will be a valuable and
much needed adjunct to our flotilla. In the meanwhile the mission
steamer I'care would no doubt gratuitously effLict certain transports.

" >hould the Expedition desire it, we would facilitate the recruiting of
Bangala; we are very |)leased with the latter, as they are excellent
soldiers, and do not fear tlie Arabs like the Zanzibaris.

" You will have remarked that the official documents, pul)lished this
week in IJerlin, limit the territory of Zau/d)ar to a narrow "strip of Ian I
along the seashore. Beyond this strip the entire territory is German.
If t le Oermans allow the Expedition to cross their territory, the Zanzi-
baris would bo precisely as on the Congo, on foreign soil.
" With kind regards, I am, dear Mr. Stanley,

" Yours very truly,

" COMTE DE BORCHGUAVE."

Tliat this was not a light matter to Ite hastily decided
will be evident by the following note which was sent me
by Sir William Mackinnon : —

" Western Club, Glasgow,
" My dear Stanley, " '^«»w«'-2/ 4^/^ 1887.

■■' I had a pleasant phort letter from the King showing how anxious
he is the Congo route .should be taken, and how unwilling to allow a
break in the continuity of your connection with the Congo State, a< he
considers you a ])illar of the State. He asks me to banish (?) any diver-
gent sentiments, and get all pcarties to agree to the Congo route. I have
explained fully all that has been done and is doing, and the difficulties
in the way of cancelling existing engagements, and get the authorities,
home and Egyptian and the Sultan of Zanzibar, to acquit see in making
such a change I also mentioned the great additional charge involved
by sending 600 men, even if the Sultan should consent to their going
from Zanzibar to the Congo and bringing them back.

" I promised, however, to ascertain whether all interested in the present
arrangements would agree in taking the Congo route.

In my diary of January 5tli I find written briefly
the heads of businesses despatched this day.

As suggested by Mackinnon, who has been written
to by King Leopold upon the subject of the Congo
route, I saw Sir Percy Anderson, and revealed the
King's desire that the Expedition should proceed via
Congo. I was requested to state what advantages the
Congo route gave, and replied : —

THE KlNd OF THE liELGIAXS AXD THE CONGO ItOl'TE. 45

l.st. Certainty of reju'liing Eniiii.

2ik1. Transport up the Congo River by state steamers
to a point 320 geographical miles from Lake All)ert.

3r(l. Allaying suspicion of Germans that underlying
our acts were political motives.

4th. Allaying alleged fears of French Ciovernment
that our Expedition would endanger the lives of French
Missionaries.

5th. If French Missionaries were endangered, then
English Missionaries would certainly share their fate.

C)th. Greater immunity from the desertion of the
Zanzil)aris who were fickle in the neighbourhood of
Arab settlements.

Lord Iddesleigh writes me that the French ambassador
has been instructed to inform him that if the Eniin
Pasha Relief Expedition proceeds by a route east of the
Victoria Nyanza it will certainly endanger the lives of

Uganda.

suggests

that I

of Admiral Sullivan
Admiralty suppl}'ing
Congo. He said if
be easy, if not, ini-

tlieir Missionaries in
consider this question.

Visited Admiralty, inquired
respecting the possibility of
vessel to carry Expedition to
(lovernment ordered it would
possible.

Wrote to the King urging him to acquaint me how
i'dv his assistance would extend in transport on the
Upper Congo.

January Sth. — Received letters from the King. He
lays claim to my services. Offers to lend whole of his
naval stock for transport except such as may ])e necessary
for uses of administration. Wired to Mackinnon that
I felt uneasy at the clause ; that it was scarcely
compatible with the urgency required. Colonel de
Winton wrote to the same effect.

Effects of Expedition are arriving by many cwts.

De Winton worked with me until late in the
nidit.

January dth, 1887. — Colonel J. A. Grant, Colonel Sir
F. de Winton, and myself sat down to consider His

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Majesty's letter, and finally wrote u reply re(|uestiii^ lie
would graeiously respond with «j!;reater definitencss
respecting «]nantity of transport and time for which
transport vessels will be granted us so many matters
depend upon (piick reply, such as hire of Soudanese,
deter'tion of mail steamer iov shipment of ammunition,
etc. We therefore send special messenger

Jaiui'irj/ lOt/i, 1887 — De Winton visited Foreign
Office and was promised as soon as possible to attend to
the detention of mail steamer and Government transport
rountl the Cape of Good Hope.

Messrs. (h-ay, Dawes & Go write Postmaster-( General
willing to detain Zanzibar mail steamer at Aden to
wait Ndvarlno, which sails from London on the
20tli with the ammunition and officers. I overtake
Navarlno at Suez after settling matters of Expedition
in Egypt.

January Vlth, — Answer arrived last night. Meeting
was called by Honourable Guy Dawnay, Colonel Sir
Lewis Pellv, Colonel Sir F. de Wintxm and self The
answer as regards Congo route Ijeing satisfactory was
decided upon, and this has now been adopted unani-
mously.

Was notified at 2 p.m by the Earl of Iddesleigh that
he would see me at G p.m. But at 3.13 p.m. the Eail
died suddenly from disease of the heart.

Januarn I3t/f. — Foreign office note received from Sir
J. Pauncefote transmitting telegram from Sir E. Baring,
also letters concerning Admiralty transport. No help
from Admiralty.

Cloods arriving fast. Will presently fill my house.

Went down with Baroness Burdett-Coutts to Guildhall,
arriving there 12.45 p.m. I received Freedom of City
of London, and am called youngest citizen. Afterwards
lunched at Mansion House, a distinguished party
present, and affair most satisfactory.

Telegraphed to Brussels to know if Friday conveniei.t
to King. Eeply, " Yes at 9.30 a.m."

Jauwiry 14M.-- -Crossed over Channel last night
towards Brussels via Ostend to see King Leopold. Saw

,Jt

rnErAiiAToiiY details of we HELIEF EXPEDITIOX. 47

■^tiiiji; lie
uiteiu'ss
• which
matters
ulaneso,
unition,

Foreign
tteud to
L'ansport

General
Vden to
on the
)vei'take
peditioii

Meetino;
onel 8ir
If The
loiy was
unani-

igh thfit
the Earl

om Sir
Baring,
,o help

ouse.
ildhall,
of Citv
erwards
party

veniei.t

night
Saw

King and gave my farewell. He was very kind. Left
for London in evening at 8 p.m.

Telegram arrived from Sandringham re(|uesting
visit.

January \bfh. — Sir Percy Anderson rc( [nested inter-
view.

Mr. Joseph Thomson at this late hour has heen
writing to Geographical Society wanting to go with
Ex{)edition.

Arraniied with Ingham to collect Conij|;o carriers. He
goes out hh(»T-tly.

Telegraphed Zanzibar to recall rice carriers from
Mpwapwa. This will cost 2,500 rupees more.

Wrote some days ago to the donor of the Peace
Mission Steamer on the Gongo recjuesting '.<)an of her
for the relief of Emin Pasha. Received the following
quaint reply : —

" Dear Mr. Stanley, " I'^^^'^«' Jnnwtr>i Voth, 1887.

" I liave much regard for you persoually, althongli I caniKjt, dare not,
sanction all your acts.

" I am vory Horry if I cannot give as?cnt to your request ; but I fully
believe you will be no sufferer by the circumstance of not having the
s.s. Peace. Yesterday I was able to come to a decision.

"Mr. Baynes, of the Baptist Missionary Society, Holborn, will, lie
hopes, make to you any communication he judges proper. If you have
any reverential regard for 'the Man of Sorrows,' the 'King of Peace'
nuiy He mercifully preserve and save your party.

" I have no doubt of the safety of Eniin — till his work is done. I
believe he will be brought througli this trial in ])erfect safety. God
seems to have given you a noble soul (covers for the moment, if on jour
sad sin and mistakes), and I should like you should ' repent and believe
the Gospel ' — with real sense, and live henafter in happiness, light, and
joy— for ever. Here delay in you is more dangerous than delay for Emin.

" Your faithful friend,

" (Signed) RcBERT Authington."

January 16/A.— Colonel J. A. Grant offered to arrange
with Mr. J. S. Keltie, Editor of Nature, to discuss Mr.
Thomson's offer.

Letters accumulate by scores. All hands employed
ansvverinfT.

January 17th. — Wrote Sir Percy Anderson would call
Wednesday 2 p.m. Correspondence increases.

Mr. Joseph Thomson's offer discussed. Mv. J. S.

I l.'tmft ^ft WM Mi * Mt'ftl *1 -!*.'

. '^inmiiiii^tr^pnt-itin nM fc' i n i-'l

7iV l)AllKKl:iT AFRICA.

Keltie is to write to him privately —
niittee.

ArmiiQ-ed witli Cr. S. JMuckeiizie

deuisiijii of com-
a]>out

Zanzibar

matters. He despatched two telegrams. (General
Brat'keiihurv wrote al)out coal beiiiu' furnished re-
quiring" Treasury sanction.

Jaiiaaru \St/i. — Worked off morning-'s l»usiness.

Travelled to Sandringham with Colonel de Winton to
see His Royal Highness. With African map before us
gave short lecture to their Royal Highnesses respecting
route proposed to reach Emin Pasha. Had a verv
attentive audience.

Jaiiuan/ Idt/i. — Sir William ]\Iackinnon mustered liii^
friends at the Burlington Hotel at a farewell ])an(juet to
me.

Have said " fjood-bve " to a host of friends to-day.

Janmu'i/ 20f/i. — The s.s. Navariiio sailed this afternoon
carrying goods of Expedition and officers. Lieutenant
Stairs, Captain Nelson, and Mr. ]\Iounteney Jephson.
Mr. AVilliam Bonny started from my rooms with black
boy Baruti to Fenchurch Station at 8 a.m. Arriving
there he leaves Baruti after a while and proceeds to
Tower of London ! He savs that returnino; to station
at 2 p.m. he found boat had gone. He then went to
Gray, Dawes & Co., shipping agents, and is discouraged
to find that the matter cannot be mended. Baruti
found deserted in Fenchurch Station, very hungry and
cold. Colonel J. A. Grant finds him and brings him
^o me.

JaiLuavj/ 2\st. — Despatch Mr. Bonny by rail to Ply-
mouth to overtake a steamer bound for Lidia and
instruct him to debark at Suez with bov and await me.

Left London at 8.5 p.r. . for Egypt. Quite a crowd
collected to t?ike a final shake of the hands and to Itid
me a kindly "God speed."

CHAPTER 11.

EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR.

Surpoon T. 11. Parko — Yimvs oi" Sir Evelyn Barinp, Xubav Paslia, Pro-
ti'SHor Schweinfurtli and Dr. Junker on the Kiiiin belief Ex])e{liti()n
— Details relating to Eniin Pa.slia and his Province— General Grent'ell
and the aninmnition— Dreakfast with Khedive Tewtik : message to
luiiin Pasha — Dejjarture for Zanzibar — Deseription of Mombasa
town — Visit to the Hullan of Zanzibar — Letter to Emin Pasha sent
by messenger through Uganda— Arrangements with Tijipoo Til) —
Emin Paslia's Ivory — Mr. Mackenzie, Sir John Pender and Sir James
Ander.son's assistance to the lielief Expedition.

January 27tli, 1887. — Arrived at Alexandria (> a.m.
Suroeoii T. H. Parke of the A.M.D. came to mv hotel
and applied for the position of surgeon to tlie Ex])e-
dition. It was the one vacanev not vet filled to niv
satisfaction. I considered it a (lod.send, though 1
appeared distant, as 1 had had two most unplea.sant
experiences with medical men, both of whom were
crotchetty, and inconsistent in England. An extremely
handsome vouno; iientleman — diiiident s(mie\vhat l)ut
veiy prepossessing. To try if he were in earnest I said.
"If vou care to follow me to Cairo, T will talk further
with you. I have not the time to argue with you here."

Left Alexandria at !0 a.m. for Cairo. At the station
I met Sir Evelyn I^aring, whom I had read of in Cordon's
iournals. We drove to Sir Evelvn's house and was
told in his strai<>litforward and clearest mannei" that
there was a hitch somewhere. The Khedive and Nuhar
Pasha, the Prime Minister, were doid)tfuI as to the
wisdom of the Conuo route. Professor Schwcnnfurth
and Dr. -lunker hadhoth been struck with consternation,
and l)y their manner had expressed that the idea was
absurd.

VOL. I. E

1«87.
Jan. "-'7

Alexan
(Iriii.

I^ DARKEST AFRICA.

1887
Jan. 27

Cairo.

tl Jl^i f "w ten in E ; ''*i ^™,."'" «""l< *'">*
funli and Junker On tl,e if ^ef T '^T"' ^^''"■^"'-
Colonel James Au^mstus Gr., f *^"™'"'t'*« we liave
Colonel Sir Frand" de WntoTTr"T! '-^ '^'P'^'^''-

SflWEO.V I'AUKIC, A.M.D,

Political Aceiit .,f 7, -1

IWnay ..f the vi (.ffi «"■ '^ , V" , """""''"I'l-' <iuv
fienerai at ^.^^'l^'\^:f']^'^~^<^^^'-'^^^-
■several otluT .listin, nl. i , ™'''' ^^•'"'■i' .md

assent of tl.c F.,reiKn Jffi !. V''" /•"■'™n'«"'o .^nd

oil uni,,c. We i,ave eonwidered

,«.77? EVELYN BARING S VJEU'S ON THE EXPEDITION 51

1887,

Cairo,

evervtliing, and 1 have come thus far resolved to carry

the project out as the committee and myself have agreed." "^""' '^^*

And then I gave Sir Evelyn the pros and c<)ns of the
routes, which satisfied him. We then drove to the
Prime Minister, Nubar Pasha, and tli« same explanations
had to be entered into with him. Nubar, with a kindly

NfUAU lASUA.

benevolent smile, deferi'ed to Sir Evelyn's superior
judgment. Nubar assented to the wisdom and discretion
of the change, and as a reward I was invited to break-
fast for the morrow.

January 2Sf/i. (^airo. — T ])reakfasted with Nubar
Pasha. He introducted me to Mason iVv — the circum-

1887.
Jnu. 28.

Cairo.

i\,:

■1 .fir 1

■1 i'

navigator

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

of Lake Albert in

1877, Madame Nubar
and three daughters, Tigrane Pasha, his son-in-hiw,
Mr. Fane, formerly Secretary of Legation at Brussels.
During l>reakfaRt Nubar Pasha conversed upon many
things, principally Egypt, Soudan, Afri(;a and Gordon,
Of Gordon he is clearly no admirer. He accredits the
loss of the Soudan to him. His views of Baker were that
he was a fighter — an eager pioneer — a man of great
power.

Showed map to Nubar after breakfast. He examined
the various routes carefully, and' was convinced the
Congo route was the best. He proposes to write
instructions to Emin to return to Egypt on the ground
that Egypt cannot afford to retain the Soudan under
present circumstances. He permits us the use of the
Egyptian Flag as the banner of the Expedition. He
says he would like to see Emin return with as much
ivory as possible and bringing his Makrakas with him.
Should any ivory be brought out he will lay claim to
«ome of tiie money on behalf of the Egyptian Govern-
ment — because of the £ 10,000 furnished by it. Uniforms
are being ordered for Emin Pasha and principal officers,
for which the Relief Fund will have to pay. Rank and
pay due to each officer assured.

I saw Schwemfurth and Junker, who have been con-
sidered experts here, and I have had a long and
interesting conversation, the pith of which I here
embody.

Schweinfurth and Junker, it seems, had formed the
curious idea that because the Expedition was to be
armed with several hundred Remingtons and a machine
gun of the latest invention, it was to be an offensive
force conducted after strict military rules.

If thev had reflected jit all the verv title of the
Expedition ought to have warned them that they w-ere
astray ; the (diaracter of the people who subscribed the
major portion of the fund ought to have still more
assured them that their conception of the Expedition
was wide of the mark. It is the relief of Emin Pasha
that is the object of the Expedition, the said relief

rn^m

^H ^

■3m

•^j^^^^^i

CONVEBSATION WITH DE. JUNKER.

fon.sisting of ammunition in .sufficient (quantity to
enable him to withdraw from liis dangerous position in
Central Africa in safety, or to hold his own if he decides
to do so for such length of time as he may see fit.
Considering the quality of the escort, being mainly
Zanzibaris or freed slaves, it would l)e rash to expect too
much frcmi them. It is already known in Zanzi])ar that
Uganda is hostile, that Mwanga massacred some sixty of
the followers of Bishop Hannington, that the Masai
route has its dangers, that Karagwe is tri])utary to
Mwanga, that the Wahha are numerous and aggressive,
that Ruanda has never yet been penetrated, that
bevond a certain line whether on the Masai route or the
Karagwe' route there is certain danger ; and no matter
with what cheerfulness they would assert at Zanzibar
their readiness to defy all and every belligerent,
African travellers remember how weak they are
proved to be when in actual presence of danger.
Assuming, however, that this band of 600 Zanzibaris
were faithful, consider their inexperience of these new
rilies, their wild, aimless, harmless firing, their want of
discipline and tone, their disposition to be horrified at
sight of the effects of fighting — remem])er that in
reality they are only porters and do not pretend to be
warriors — and you will see how very unequal such men
are to the duties of defending munitions of war in the
face of an enemy. It was only by stratagem that I
se(;ured their services for the desperate work of dis-
covering the issue of the great river along which we
had travelled with Tippu-Tib, when that now famous
Arab deserted me in mid-Africa. It was oidy that
there were no other means of escape that enaV)led me
with their help to obtain a quiet retreat from savage
Ituru. In many other instances they proved that when
menaced with instant death they could ])e utilized to
assist in the preservation of their own lives ; but to
expect them to march faithfully forward to court the
dangers of fighting with the seductions of Unyamwezi
and Zanzibar in their rear would be too much. In this
Expedition we cannot turn aside as formerly in presence

1887.
Jan. 2^.

Cairo.

IN DARKEST AFItlCA.

1887.
Jan. 28.

Cairo.

of H pronounced liostility und .seek more peaceful
countries ; but our ol)jective point must be reached, and
risk must be run, and the ammunition must be de-
posited at the feet of Emin Pasha. Therefore to arm
these people with Remingtons or mac-hine guns is not
enough — you must cut off their means of retreat, allow
no avenue of escape — then they will stand together like
men, and we may expect the obje(^t ot the Expedition to
be attained, even if we have now and again to meet
bows and spears or guns.

KeiTcardino' Emin Pasha m\' information is various.

From Dr. Junker I learn that Emin Pasha is tall,*
rhin and ex(;eedinolv short-si";hted ; that he is a great
linguist, Turkish, Arabic, (German, French, Italian and
English being familiar to him ; to these languages may
be a(hled a few of the African dialects. He does not
seem to have impressed Junker with his fighting
([ualities, though as an administrator, he is sagacious,
tactful and prudent. His long isolation seems to have
discouraged him. He snys, " Egypt does not care for us
and has forgotten us ; Europe takes no interest in what
we do." He is German l)y birth, and is a])out fcjrty-
seven years old.

His force is distributed among eight stations, fr<mi
200 to :]00 men in each, say about 1^800 in all. The
garrisons of the four northernmost staticns were
discontented and mutinous at last accounts. They
answered Emins advice to consolidiite with reproaches ;
his suggestions that they should all withdraw from the
e<|uatorial pl■o^■illce rin Zanzibar, were I'esponded to ]»y
accusations that he intended only to sell them to
Zanzi))ar as slaves.

Junker cannot give an exact figure of the force itself,
oj' of the Egyptians or clerks or Dongolese with Emin,
but being (piestioned (dosely as to details replied that
the approximate number of those likely to return with
the Expedition would l)e as follows : —

White Egyptian Officers, 10 ; non-commissioned

• W(! consoiiuciitly luulo the tailor inako long luiutalooiis, ami they
wore (luite .six inches too lonjj.

f
\

INFOUMATION ItKGAIiDlNG EMIN PASI/A.

(black), 15; white clerks (Copts), 20; blacks from
Dongola, Wady Haifa, etc., 300, = men 345. White-
women, 22; blackwomen, 137; = women 159, children
of officers, 40; soldiers' children, 60 = children 100.=
Total 604.

Besides these the native troops on perceivmg a

1887.
Jan. 28.

Cairo.

THK KHEDIVE TEWKIK

general withdrawal, may also desire to I'cturii with their
friends and comrades to Egypt. It is impossible to state
what may be the effect on their minds of the appearance
of the Relief Expedition. The decision of Emin Pasha,
to remain ov withdraw, will probaljly influence the
majority.

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
Jan. -28.

Cairo.

ill ■ 'I

some
(Toveriimeiit liaci ■■\nv^
Eeplied tlint such ' >

Fehi'uari/ \st. — b ,
Accompanied him to

I expect my men frcmi Wady Haifa to l)e here tliis
afternoon. They will he armed. e<[uipped and rationed
at the Citadel, and on Thnrsday will acctmipany me to
Suez. The Ndvurino is supposed to arrive at Suez the
day following, when we will emhiirk and be off.

Received telegrams from London. Reports from a
Avell-known person at C^airo has reached newspaper'-^
that Emin Pasha had fought his way through Uganda
after some desp ''ate "^ iigj^les, and that the Egyptian

v difficulty in wa}' of Expedition.

ivQ unknown in CViro.
Sn- r.velyn Baring at 10.45 a.m.
Kheciiv.3 Tewfik. His Highness
is most amiable and good-looking. Fine palace within,
abundance of room, a host ol attendants, &c. Am
invited to breakfast with Jvhedive at noon to-morrow.

Taken later by Sir Evelyn to General Grenfell's office
respecting suggestion made to me last night, at
General Stephenson's by Valentine Baker Pasha, that I
must assure myself that the Remington ammunition
furnished ))y Egyptian Government was sound, as his
experience of it was that 50 per cent, was bad. " You
must think then," said he, " if the ammunition is so
poor already what it will l)e about a year hence when
you meet Emin, after humidity of tropics."

General Grenfell said he had already tested the
ammunition, and would make another trial, since
Valentiiie Baker Pasha entertained such an opinion of it.

Fehraary 2nd. — Breakfast with Khedive Tewffik. He
protests his patriotism, and loves his country. He is
certainlv most unaffected and trenial.

Before leaving Khedive, the following Firman or
High Order, was given to me open with the English
translation.

Translation.

Copji of a Hi(]h Arabic OrdiT to Emin Pasha, dated
St/i, G-amad Aical 1304, (Ut Fehruan/, 1887. No. 3).

" AVe have already thanked you and your officers for
the plucky and su(;cessful defence of the Egyptian

LETTER FliOM THE KHEDIVE TO EMIN PASHA. 57

Equatorial provinces entrusted to your charge, and t'oi-
the firmness you have shown witli your fellow-ofiicers
under your command.

And we therefore have rewarded vou in raisini"' vour
rank to that of Lewa Pasha (Brigadier-! ieneral). We
have also approved the ranks you thought necessary to
oive to the officers under vour (charge. As I have alreadv
written to you on the 29 November, 1886, No. 31, and
it must have reached you with other documents sent by
His Excellency Nubar Pasha, President of the Council of
Ministers.

And, since it is our sincerest desire to relieve ' .u with
your officers and soldiers from the difficult position you
are in, our Government have made up their mir^d in
the manner by which you may be relieved with officers
and soldiers from vour troubles.

And as a mission for the relief has been f(^ -med under
the command of Mr. Stanley, the famous and .vperienced
African Explorer, whose reputation is well known
throughout the world ; and as he intends to set out on
his Expedition with all the necessary provisions for you
so that he may jjring you here with officers and men to
Cairo, by the route which Mr. Stanley may think proper
to take. Consequently we have issued this High Order
to you, and it is sent to you by the hand of Mr. Stanley
to let you know what has been done, and as soon as it
will reach vou, I cliaro;e you to convev mv })est wishes
to the officers and men — and you are at full liberty with
regard to your leaving for Cairo or your stay tliere with
officers and men.

Cur Government has given a decision for paying }'our
salaries with that of the officers and men.

Those who wish to stav there from the officters and
men they may do it on their own responsiljility, and
they may not expect any assistance fr<mi the (iovern-
ment.

Try to understand the contents well, and make it
well-known to all the officers and men, that they may
be aware of what they are going to do.

(Signed) ^Iehemet Tkwfik."

1887.
Kcli. 2.

Cairo.

.i;

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Irt87.
V,^}. 2.

Cairo,

Tn the eveiiino; Tigmne Puslui brought to me Nuhar
Pasliu's — the Prime Minister — letter of recall to Emin.
It was read to me and then sealed.

We stand thus, then ; rFunker does not think Emin will
aitandon the Province; the English subscribers to the
fund ho})e he will not, but express nothing ; they leave
it to Emin to decide ; the English Government would
prefei' that he would retire, as his Province under present
circumstances is almost inaccessible, and certainly he, so
far removed, is a cause of anxiety. The Khedive sends
the above order for Emin to accept of our escort, bu:
savs, " You mav do as vou please, [f vou decline our
proffered aid you are not to expect further assistance
from the Government." Nubar Pasha's letter conveys
the wishes of the Egyptian Government which are in
a(!Cordance with those of the English (Tovernment, as
expressed by Sir Evelyn Baring.

Fehruar;/ ^r<I. — Left C-airo for Suez. At the station
to wish me success were Sir Evelyn and Lady Baring,
Generals Stephenson, Grenfell, Valentine Baker, Ab})ate
Pasha, Professor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker. The
Litter and sixty-one soldiers (Souchmese) from Wady
Haifa a(M^ompanied me. At Zagazig, Surgeon T. H.
Parke, now an enrolled meml)er of the Expedition, joined
me. At Ismailia our party were increased ])y Giegler
Pasha. At Suez met Mr. James S. Jameson, the
naturalist of the Expedition. ^Ir. Bonny of the Hospital
Staff Corps, and Pai'uti, will arrive to-morrow per
Gdwnnc of the Orient line.

Fchniar;/ Gf/i. — Breakfasted with Captain Beyts, Agent
of the British Lulia Steam Navigation Company. At
2 P..\i. Capt. Beyts enil)arked with us on })(ydvd Bob Ix'oi/,
a new steamer just built for him, and we steamed out to
the Suez harbour where the Xdrariiio from London is at
anchor. At 5 p.m., after friendly wishes from C^aptain
Bevts and mv 2'ood friend Dr. Junker, to whom I had
become OTeath' attached for the real worth in him, the
Xarnrliio sailed for Aden.

Febriiani St/i. -Weather grows warm. Ther. Fah. 74'^
at 8 A.M. in Captain's cabin. My European servant

Aliim'Al AT MOMliAHA.

asked me if this was the Red Sea through whidi we were
sailing. " Yes," I re})lied. " Well, sir, it looks more
like a black sea than a red one, ' was his 2)ro found re-
mark.

Felnuan/ Vltls. — Reached Aden at 2 a.m. We now
change steamers. Navaruu) proceeds to l^onibay. The
11I.8.N. steamer Orlottal takes us to Zanzihai*. On
hoard the latter stermer we met Major Rarttelot. ( ahled
to Zanzi))ar following : —

" I\Iackenzie, Zair/.il'ar

" Your telegram very gratifying. Pleas-e oiigago twenty yonng la Is
as oflftcers' servants at lower rate tliau men. We leave to-(lay \vitli eight
Eniopeans, sixty-one .Soudanese, two Syrians, thirteen Somalis. Pro-
vision transport steamer aceordingly."

Tlie first-class passengers include self, Barttelot, Stairs,
.lephson. Nelscm, Parke, l^onny, (\)unt Pfeil, and two
German c(mipanions hound for llufiji River.

Fc/inKiri/ ]9f/i.— Avviwd otf Lamu at '■) p.m. Soon
after s.s. JJof/Iulad came in with Dr. Lenz. tlie Austrian
traveller, who had started to proceed to Emin lk\v, hut
failing, came across to Zanzibar instead. He is on his
way Inmie. Having failed in his purpose, he will blame
Africa and abuse the Congo especially. It is natural
with all classes to shift the blame on others, and I feci
assured Lenz will l)e no exception.

Ffhrauri/ '10th. — Arrived at Mond)asa. Was told that
a great battle had been fought lately between the (Jallas
and Sonialis. The former are for the (Germans, the latter
are declared enemies to them. We also hear that
Portuoal has declared war auainst Zanzibar, or somethinu"
like it.

Best place for commercial depot is on right hand of
northern entrance, first point within harl)our; it is
l>lufiy, dips sheer (h)wn into deep water, with timber
floated ahmo- l)ase of ])luti'. and lono-armed derricks on
edu'e of blutf, steamers mii»lit be unloaded and loaded
with ease. Cocoa-nut palms abundant, (iood view of
sea fnmi it. If Mombasa becomes an English port —
as I hope it will shortly — the best position of new
town would be alonu' face of blutf Irontino- seaward

1887.
Feb. V:.

Allen.

y.V 1> A UK EST AFRICA.

Fell. '11.
Zauzibnr

(»n islniid just wlicrc old I'ortii^uoso port is; a li^lit
I'jiilwnv and sonic diaui^lit muk's would laud on train
all ^oods from liarhour.

luhrudrji 'I'liid. — Arrived at Zanzihai'. Actino' (."ou-
sul-( Joneral Ilolniwood warndy [)rotfcr('d hospitality.

Instructed otHcers to proceed on hoard our transport,
R I.S.N. Co. MiulunirdwA to take change of Sonialis and
Soudanese, and Mackenzie to disend)ark forty (lonkeys
and saddles from Jfadura — route l»ein<>' cliauiied there
\vas no need for so many animals.

Received compliments fi-om the Sultan of Zanzibar ;
visits from the famous 'Pippu-Tih, Jaffar, son of Tarya
To})an. his agent, and Kanji the Vakeel of Tarya.

Zanzibar is somewhat changed during my eight years'
alisence. There is a telegraphic ca))le, a tall (dock-tower,
a new Sultan's palace, very h)fty and conspicuous, with
wide verandahs. The Custxmi House has been enlarged.
Oeneral Lh)yd Mathews has new ])arracks for Ids jNlili-
tary Police ; the promenade to Fiddler's grave has l)een
expanded into a broad carriage-way, which extends to
Sultan's house bevond Mbwenni. There are horses and
carriages, and steam-rollers, and lamp-posts, at convenient
distances, serve to bear oil-lamps to light the road when
His Highness returns to city from a country jaunt.

There are six (ilerman war-vessels in port, under
Admira.1 Knorr, If. B. j\I.S. Turquoise and Reindeer, ten
merchant steamers, and a few score of Arab dhows, Bag-
galas, Kanjehs, and l)oats.

Fehruavji 'IZvd. — Paid what is called a State visit to
His Highness. As a special mark of honour the troops,
under stout General Lloyd Mathews, were drawn up in
two lines, about 300 vards in length. A tolerable mili-
tary band saluted us with martial strains, while several
hundreds of the population w^ere banked behind the
soldiers. The most frequent words I heard as I passed
through with Consul Holmwood were : " Ndio huvu " —
" Yes, it is he !" by which I gathered that scattered
among the crowds must have been a large number of my
old followers, pointing me out to their friends.

State visits are nearlv alwavs alike. The " Present

VISIT To Tilt: SCLTAX OF ZASZlliAIi.

iirms !" l»y (leiuM'al Mathews, tlic martial strains, the
laroc o'l'oups of the siiporior Aral)s at the hall jxnch.
the ascent up the lofty tli«^hts of stairs— the Sultan at
the head of the stairs — tlie orave l)ow, the warm elasp,
tiie sahitation word, the courteous wave of the han«l to
eutei'. tlie slow uiarch towards the throne — another cere-
monious inclination all round— the Prince taking- his
seat, which intimates we may follow suit, the refiesh-
ments of shei'het after coffee, and a few remarks altout
Kurope, and our nuitual healths. Then the ceremonious
de[)artui'e, a^ain the strains of music. Mathews' sonorous
voice at " Present arms !" and W(^ retii'e from the
scene to dott" our L()n(h)n dress-suits, and pack them up
with cam})hoi' to preserve them from moths, until we
return fnmi years of travel " Throui>h the Dark Con-
tinent" and from "Darkest Africa."

In tlip afternoon, paid the l)usiness visit, tii-st pre-
sentinii' the followinix letter :—

1 SS7.
I'eli. •.',!.

X.iiizili;ir,

" To His Highness Seyyid lUiidHASH bin Said,
" Saltan of Zanzibar.

" T?nrlinp;ton Hotel,

" Old Hnrlin^ton Street, I.ondon, W.

" '28^/i January, 1887.

" Your Highness,

'■ I cannot allow another mail to ))ass witliont writing;- t(» ex])ress
to yon my ^'ratefal a))i)reciation of tlu! kindly res])onse yon madi^ to my
telegram in regard to assisting tlio Expedition, which proceeds nnder
tile leadership of Mr. H. M. Stanley to relieve Emin Pasha. The cor-
diality with which yon instrncted yonr officers to assist in selecting the
liest men available is indeed a most im))ortant service to the Ex])edition,
and I have reason to know that it has given great satisfaction in
England. Mr. Stanley will reach Zanzibar In abont four weeks. He is
fnll of enthnsiasin as the leader of his interesting Expedition, and his
chief reasons for selecting the ^.^ongo ronte are that he maybe able to
convey the nit yonr Highness has so kindly assisted him in jirocnring
witliont fatigne tr risk by sea to the Congo, and u]) the river in boats in
com])arative comfort, and they will arrive within 850 miles of their
destination fresh , 'id vigorous instead of being wor)i ont and jaded by
the fatigne of a long march inland. His services will be entirely devoted
to the Expedition dnring its ))rogress, and he cannot deviate from its
course to perform service for the Congo State.

" It is ])robable also he will return by the east coast land ronte,
and as T know him to bo dec^ply interested in your Highness's i)ros]K'rity
and welfare, I am sure if ho can render any service to Y(Hir Highness
during his progress back to the coast, he will do so most heartily. I
have had many conversations with him, and liave always found hini
most friendly to Your Highness's interests, and I lielieve also the

r: 4^

t:l

1887.
Vkh 2:5.

Znn/ibnr.

IN DARKEST AfRICA.

coiifidencc of onr mntual gof) I tVieiul. I iiray you in these ciivuin-
stiuioes to ('omiuuiut'iit(! freely with Mr. Stanley on all jioints — as freely
as if I liad the honour of being there to receive the communications
myself,

■' With tlie repeated assurance of my hearty symjiathy in all the affairs
tliat concern Your Ilighness's interests.

" T remain,
" Your very obedient servint and friend,
" W. Mackixno.v.'"

We thcji entered heartily into our ])usiiies,s : how altso-
iiitely necessary it was that lie should promptly enter
into an aoreement with the Enolish within the limits
assiii'iied 1)\' Ani>l()-(iei'man ti'eatv. It would take too
long to deserihe the details of the conversation, but I
obtained from him the answer needed.

" Please ( Jod we shall agree. When you have got the papers ready we
shall read and sign without further delay and the matter will be over."

At night, wrote the following letter to Emiii Pasha,,
for transmission to-morrow by couriers overhmd, who
will travel through Uganda into Liiyoro secretly.

"To His Excellency Emin P.\sii.\,

" (Jovernor of the Eriuatorial Provinces.

" H. B. Majesty's Consulate. Zanzibar.
" Deau Sin " J'^cbraari/ 'i'drd, 1887.

" I liave the honour to inform you that the Government of His High-
ness ihe Khedive of Egypt, upon the receipt of your urgent letters
soliciting aid and instructions, have seen tit to depute me to equip an
Exju'dition to ])roceed to Wudelai to convey such aid as they think you
re(|uire, and to assist you in other ways agreeably with the written
instructions which, have been delivered to me for you.

" Having been i)retty acciivately informed of the nature of your neces-
sities froTH the i)erusal of your letters to the Egyptian (Jovernment, the
Expedition has been eijuipped in such a manner as may be sui)posed to
meet all your wants. As you will gather from the letters of liis Higli-
ness and the Prime Ministfn- of Egy))t to you, and which 1 bring with
me, all that could possibly l)e doiu^ to satisfy your needs has been done
most heartily. From the translation of the letters delivered to me, I
])crceive that they will give you immense satisfaction. Over sixty
soldiers from Wady Haifa have been detailed to accompany me in order
that they mav be able to encourage tlu^ soldiers undi'r your commind,
and contirin the letters. We also march under the Egy])tian standaid.

" The Exijcdition includes (JOO Zan/.ibari natives, and probably as
many Aral) followers from Central Africa.

" We sail to-morrow from Zanzibar to the (^ongo, and by the 18tb Juno
next we hope to be at the head of navigation on the Uj)per Congo.
From the poiid where we debark to the southern end of Lake Albert is a
distance of M2() mil( s in a straight line, say r)00 miles by roacl, which will

LETTER WRITTEN BY ME TO EM.'X PAS J f A.

probably occupy iis titty days to luarcli to the i?outli-\vcsteni or .southern
C'lul, in ^he neighbourhood of Kavalli.

" If your steamers are in that neighbourhood, you will be able to leave
word ]K?rliai)S at Kavalli, or in its neighbourhood, inforining nie of your
vvherealiouts.

" Tlie reasons which have obliged me to adopt this route for the eon-
veyanec of yotir stores are various, but in'incipally jjolitieal. I am also
im])rcssi'd with the greater security of that route and the greater
certainty of success attending the venture witli less tronble to the
Expedition and less annoyance 1o the natives. Mwanga is a fonnidalilo
op])on('nt to the south and soulii cast. The Wakedi and other warlike
natives to the eastward of Fatiko o])])ose a serious obstacle, the natives
of Kisiiakka and liuanda have n(;ver ])ermitte<l strangers to enter their
country. En route 1 do nor antici]iate mnch trouliie, because there arc!
no jiowerful chiefs in the Congo liasin capable of interrupting onr
inarch.

" Besides abundance of ammunition for your needs, official letters from
the Egyjitian Government, a lieavy mail from your numerous friends and
admirers, I l)ring with me ]iersonal e(|uipments for jonrself and olticers
suitable to the rank of each.

" Trusting that 1 shall have the satisfaction of tinding you well and
pafc, and that nothiiig will induce you to rashly venture your life and
liberty in the neighbouiiiood of Ugiinda, without the am))le means of
causing yourself and men to be resjiected which I am bringing to you,

" I beg you to lielieve me,

" Yours very faithfully,

" (^Signed) JIknkv ]\I. Siam.ky."

1887.
Feb. 23.

Zanzibar,

Fchniary 2if/i and 2i)f/i. — On amviiio' at Zanziliar, I
t'ouiul our Aiieiit, j\Ii'. Edinuiul Mackenzie, liad manaoed
eveiytliiiio so well that the Expedition was almost ready
for embarkation. The steamer Madui-d, of tlie Britisli
India Steam Navigation Company, was in harl)our. 2)ro-
visioned and watered for the voyaoe. The goods for
l>arter, and transport animals, were on hoard. There were
a few things to l)e done, however — such as arranging with
the famous Tippu-Til) ahont our line of conduct towards
one another. Tippu-Tih isa nnjch greater man to-day than
he was in the year 1 877, when he escorted my caiavan.pi-e
hminary to our descent down the Congo. 1 le has invested
liis hard-earned fortune in guns ai;l powder. Adxcn
rui'ous Arabs have flocked to his stan(hird. until he is now
an uncrowned king of the region between Stanley Falls
and Tanganika Lake, commanding man\' thousands of
men iniu'ed to fighting and wild l'l(|uatoi'ial life. If I dis
covered hostile intentions, my idea was to give him a
wide ]»erth ; for the ammunition I had to convey to
Kniin I'asha, if ca[»tured an<l em[>loy('d by him. would en-

IN DAliKL'ST AFRICA.

1887.
Feb. 24.

Zauzibai'.

(liiiioer tlie existence of the infant State of tlie Con<?o, and
imperil all our hopes. Between Tippu-Tipand Mwanga,
King of Uganda, there was only a choice of the frying-
pan and the fire. Tippu-Til) was the Zubehr of the
Congo 13asin — ;iust as formidable if made an enemy, as
the latter would have been at the head of his slaves.
Between myself and (xordon there had to be a difierence
in dealing with our respective Zul)ehrs ; mine had no
animus against me personally ; my hands were free, and
my movements unfettered. Therefore, with due caution,
I sounded Tippu-Til) on the first day, and found him
fully prepared for any eventuality — to fight me, or be
employed by me. 1 chose the latter, and we proceeded
to business. His aid was not re([uired to enable me to
reach Emin Pasha, or to show the road. There are four
good roads to Wadelai from the Congo ; one of them
was in Tippu-Tib's power, the remaining three are clear
of him and his myriads. But Dr. Junker informed me
that Kmin Pasha possessed about 75 tons of ivory.
So much ivory would amount to £60,000, at 8.v. per 11).
The subscription of Kgypt to the Emin Pasha Fund is
large for her depressed finance. In this quantity of
ivory we had a possible means of recouping her Treasury
- — with a large sum left towards defraying expenses, and
perhaps leaving a handsome present for the Zanzibari
survivors.

\\ hy not attempt the carriage of this ivory to the
Congo ? Accordingly, I wished to engage Tippu-Tiband
his people to assist me in conveying the ammunition to
Emin Pasha, and on return to carry this ivory. After a
o;o()d deal of baroaininu' 1 entered into a contract with
him, b\ "vhich he agreed to sup})lv 000 carriers at £(>
per loaded head— each round trip from Stanley Falls to
Lake Albert and back. Thus, if each carrier carries
70 lbs. weight of ivory, one round trip will bring to the
Fund fl;},200 nett at Stanley Falls.

On the conclusion of this conti'act, which was entered
into in presence of the liritish Consul-Ceneral, I
l)i'oached another subject in the name of His Majesty

King

Leopold with Tippu-Tib, Stanh'v Falls station

NEGOTIATIONS WITH TIPPV-TIB.

was established ])y me in December 188:5. Various
Europeans have sin(;e commanded this station, and Mr.
13innie and Lieut. Wester of the Swedish Army liad
succeeded in making it a well-ordered and presentable
station. Captain Deane, his successor, (juarrelled with
the Arabs, and at his forced departure from the scene
set lire to the station. The object for wliich the station
was established was the prevention of the Arabs from
pursuing their devastating career l)elo\v the Falls, not
so nnu;h by force as by tact, or ratlier tlie ha[)py com-
bination of both. By the I'eti'eat of the otHcei's of the
State from Stanley Falls, the floodgates were opened
and the Aral)s pressed down river. Tippu-Tib being of
course the guiding spirit (^f the Arabs west of Tanganika
Lake, it was advisable to see how far his aid might l)e
secured to check this stream of Aral)s from destroying
the ("'ountry. After the interchange of messages by
cable with Brussels — on the second day of my stay at
Zanzibar — 1 signed an engagement with Tippu-Tib l)y
which he was appointed (Jovernor of Stanley F.dls at a
regular salary, paid monthly at Zanzi)»ar, into the British
Consul-CJeneral's hands. His duties will be principally
to defend Stanlev Falls in the name of the State against
all Arabs and natives. Tlie Hag of the station will be
that of the State. At all hazards he is to defeat and
capture all persons raiding territory for slaves, and to
disperse all bodies of men who may be justly suspected
of violent designs. He is to abstain from ;dl sla\e traffic
below the Falls himself, and to prevent all in liis com-
mand trading in slaves. In order to ensure a faithful
performance of his engagement with the State, an Euro-
pean officer is to be a])pointe(l Resident a-t the Falls.
On the breach of anv article in the contract beiny;
re])orted, the salary is to cease.

Meantime, while I was en« iged with these neo'otia-
tions, Mr. Mackenzie had paid four months" advance
pay- iii; I 2.41 5 — to G20 men and boys cidistecl in the
Uelief Expedition, and as fast as each batch of lift}- men
was satisfactorily paid, a barge was hauled alongsi<le and
the men were duly end »arked, and a steam launcii towed

VOL. 1. y

1887.
Feb. 24.

Zanzibar^

SS<r*.' I

JN DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
Feb. 2.-.

Zaiii;;ib.%r

tli'^ ha: go, to tlic transport. By 5 p.m. all hands were
>*ic>()artl, and the steamer moved off to a more distant
anchorage. By midnight Tippu-Til) and liis people and
every person connected with the Expedition was on
l)oard, and at dayl)reak next day, the 25tli Fel)ruary,
the anchor was lifted, and we steamed away t(nvards the
C*ape of Ciood Hope.

So far there had not been a hitch in any arrangement.
Dirticulties had been smoothed as if l)y magic. Every-
Ixxly had shown the utmost sympathy, and l:)een prompt
witli the assistance re(|uired. The othcers of the Expe-
dition were kept fully employed frcmi morning to
evening at laborious tasks connected with the repacking
of the ammunition for Emin Pasha's force.

Before conclu<ling these entries, I ought to mention
the lil)eral assistance rendered to the Relief Expedition
by Sir John Pender, K.C.M.O., and the Eastern Tele-
graph (V)mpany. All my telegrams from Egypt, Aden
and Zanzibar, amounting in the ao-greoate to several
Imndred words were despatched free, and as each word
from Zanzibar to Europe ordinarily costs eight shillings
per word,s(mie idea of the pecuniary value of the favour
conferred may be obtained, (hi my return from Africa
this great privilege was again granted, and as I received
a. score of cableiiranis jier dav f'/! .-everal davs, and
answers were expected, J should s|'v;edilv have paid
dearly for the fortunate rescue of Emin Pasha, and most
probably my stirring career had ended in the Bank-
ruptcy ('ourt had not Sir John Pender and Sir James
Anderson (quickly reassured me. Among the contri-
butors to the Relief Fund to a verv tienerous amount
1 therefore may fairly place the names of Sir John
Pender and Sir James Anderson in behalf of the Eastern
Telegraph Company. I shouhl also state that they were
prepared to lend me the Telegraph steamei' at Zanzibar
t*> convey Miy force of carriers and soldiers to the (^)ngo
had there ))een anv ditH>'ulty in the way of «nL!;ai»in<''
the B. I.S.N. Company's 8.s. Madura.

( 6<

CHAPTER m.

BY SEA TO THE CONGO Rn'ER.

The Sultan of Zanzioai— Tippu-Tib and Stanley Falls- On board
s.s. Madura — " Shindy " between the Zanzil)aris and Soudanese-
Sketches of my various officers— Tii:>,u- Till and i.'ape Town-
Arrival at the mouth of the Congo Kiver— Start up the Congo-
Visit from two of the Executive Committee of the Congo State-
Unpleasant thoughts.

The followino- private letter to a friend will explain
some thino's of o-eneral interest : —

^Iy dear

SS. Madura, March 9th., 1887,
Near Cape of Good Hoih).

iss:.

.MMi-ih >.i.

(iodll H(i|ic,

Apart from the Press letters which are t()l)e pultlished
for the benefit of the Relief Fund, and whidi will contain
all that the pul,>lic ought to kn(jw just now, I shall have
somewhat to say to you and other friends.

The 8ultan of Zanzi])ar received me with unusual
kindness, mucli of which I owe to the introducticm of
Mr. AVilliam Mackinn(m and Sir John Kirk. He pre-
sented me with a fine sword, a shirazi hlade I should
say, richly mounted with o()ld, and a magnificent
diamond ring, whicli <|uite makes Tippu-Tih's eyes
water. With the sword is the golden It It of His
Highness, the clasp of which hears his name in Aral)ic.
It will he useful as a sign, if 1 come ])efore Arahs,
of the good understanding between tlie Prince and
myself; and if I reach tlie Egyptian othcers, some of
whom are prol>al)ly illiterate, they nmst accept the
swortl as a token that we are not traders.

Vou will have seen by the papeis that I have taken
witli me sixtv-one soldiers — Sou«hinese. Mv ol)iect has

V 2

'^K

7.V DAUKEfiT AFJiJCA.

1SS7.
Mairh 'J.

Caiie of

(i(Knl Hope

Itecii to enable tliem to speak for me to tlie Sondaiiese
of lv|uatoria. Tlie F^nvptians may atiect to <]isi)elieve
tinnans ami the writinu' of Niil)ai". in wliicli case these
Soudanese will l)e pushed forward as li\ing witnesses of
my commission.

I have settled several little commissions at Zanzibar

poll". HAIT C'K TU'ri:-TTB.

satisfactorily. Oiic was to get the Sultan to sign the
concessicms v.liich Alackinnon tried to obtain a !(/iig
time ago. Vs the ; 'el•mali^ Jiave magnificent tcn'it(>r\'
east of Z.iiizihar, it was l»ut fail- tliat Kugland should
have some portion for tiie protection she lias accorde*!
to Zanzihai' since 1841. The (Jermans appeared to

LITTLE COMMI^SIOXS AT ZAXZIIiAIl.

(Ill

the

■itol'V
lould
hrdeil
K t to

luive recoo-iiized tliis, as vou mav see hv the hite Aiio-Jo-
(jlermuii Agreement, France liad already ()l)tained p:
immense area m West Africa. All the world had \<.- mmi
to (constitute the (hmiain of King Leopold, on which lie
htul spent a million sterling, as the Independent State
of the Congo. Portugal, whicli is a chronic grumhler,
and does little, and that little in a high-handed. illil)eral
manner, has also been graciously considered by the
European Powers ; ])ut England, which had sent out Ian-
explorers, Livingstone, Burton, Bpeke, (irant. Baker,
Keith Johnston, Tlumiscm, Elton, &c., had obtained
nothing, and probably no people had taken such interest
in the Dark (Vmtinent, or had undergone such saci'ifices
in behalf of the aborimnes, as the Enolish. Her
cruisers for the last twentv years had policed the ocean
along the coast to suppress slave-catching ; her missions
were twenty-two in number, settled between East and
AVest Africa, This concession that we wished to obtain
embraced a portion of the East African coast, of which
Alombasa and Melindi were tlie principal towns. For
eight years, to my knowledge, the matter had been
placed before His Highness, but the Sultan's signature
was {lifti('uit to obtain.

Arriving at Zanzibar, I saw the Sultan was aging,
and that he had not lono- to live.* Enolishmen could
not invest mcmey in the reserved " sphere of influence '
until some such concessions were sinned.

" Please God," said the Sultan. '" we shall agree ;
there will be no further doul)t about the matter." But
his political anxieties are wearing liini fast, and unless
this matter is soon completed it will be too late.

The other afiair was with Tippu-Tib. He had actu-
ally in his possession three Krupp shells, unloa(h'(l,
which he had brought with him from Stanley Falls, on
the Upper CVmgo, to Zanzibar, to exhibit to his friends
as the kind of missiles which the Belgians pelted liis
settlements with — and he was e.xceedinglv wroth, and
nourishfd a deep scheme of retaliation. It took mc
•^onie time to (juiet; his spasms of I'escntment. People

ls,s7.
March 9.

Cape ut'
< iiiDil Hope

Seyyiil Kurtrliash died six months lat

vv.

IN DAHKEST AFRICA.

1887.
Marcli 9.

Cape of
Good Ho]i(',

very furious must Ije allowed time to vent their anger.
AVlien he had poured out liis indignation some time, I
([uietly asked liim if lie had finislied, saying, in a 1)land
way, tliat I knew well how great and powerful he was, etc,
and I told him that it was scarcely fair to ])lame all the
Europeans and King Leopold because an othcer at
Stanley Falls had been pleased to heave Krupp shells at
his settlements ; that this trouble had been caused hy
the excess of zeal of one man in defendinii; a slave woman
who had sought his protection, in the same way that
Ea. iid, his nephew, had been carried away by the fury
of youth to defend his rights. The Governor of the
Congo State wj^s a})sent nearly 1500 miles down the
river, and Tippu-Tib, the owner of the settlements, was
several hundred miles eastward on the way to Zauzibr.
Now I look upon this affair as the result of a match
between one young white man and a young Arab, The
gray heads are absent who would have settled the
troul)le without fighting : youths are always " on their
muscle," you know,

" Do you know," I continued, " that that station has
o-iven us a oreat deal of trouble. \Ve sent Amelot, vou
remember. Well, he just left t^e station without
orders, and d.'ed somewhere near Nycu.gwe' ; then the next,
Oleerup, a fcwede, followed suit, and travelled across
Africa instead ; then we sent Deane, and for a change
he would have w^ar with the Arabs. King Leopold is
not to blame for all this. It is a difficult thing to get
men who are always wise, and understand thoroughly
what their orders are. If King Leopold had sent Deane
to fight you, he would not have sent him with thirty
men, you may be sure."

Now, look here. He proposes that you try your
hand at governing that station. He will pay you every
month what he would pay an European officer. There
are certain little conditions that you must comply with
l)efore you become Governor,"

Tippu-Tib opened his eyes and snapped them rapidly,
as his custtmi is, and asked, " Me ? "

" Yes, you. You like money ; I offer you money.

J GREEMENTS WITH TIPPU- TIB.

la m

) get

'My

eaiie
lliirty

your
jVeiy
riiere
Iwitli

idlv,
iiey.

You have a grudge against wliite men 1)eing tliere. i««7.
Well, if you do your work rightly there will he no need ^'^'■'''"^•
for any white men, except him whom we sliall have to oioH HoL
place under you, to see that the conditions are not
broken."

" Well, what are they ? "

" You must hoist the flag of the State. You nnist
allow a Resident to be with you, who will write your
reports to the King. You must neither trade in slaves,
nor allow anybody else to trade in them below Stanley
Falls. Nor must there be any slave-cat(^hing ; you under-
stand. Such trade as you make in ivory, gums, rubber,
cattle, and anything else, you may do as much as you
please. But there is to be no pillaging native property
of any description wliatever below your station. A
monthly allowance will be paid into the hands of your
Agent at Zanzibar. Don't answer right away. Go and
discuss it with your friends, and think of what I otler
you. My ship sails on the third day. Give me your
answer to-morrow\"

A favourable answer was given, a proper agreement
was drawn up l)efore the Consul-General, and we both
signed. .

I made another agreement with him about the en-
gagement of carriers to carry ammunition to Lake
Albert from the Congo. If there is no ivory I shall be
indebted to Tippu-Tib for the sum of £3,600. But
there must be some, as })oth Emin Pasha and Dr. Junker
declare there is a large store of it. At the same time
I shall not risk the Expedition for the sake of the
ivory.

In consideration of these services which Tippu-Tib
has solemnly contracted to perform, I permitted him
free passage for himself and ninety-six of his kinsmen
from Zanzibar to the Congo, with board included. I
also undertook the responsibility of conveying the
entire partv safelv to Stanley Falls, thus incurring not
a small expense, but which if ftiithfully performed will
itfe amply paid for by the services menticjned in the
articles of agreement. These negotiations with Tippu-

r J

7^" DARKEST A I'll IC A.

1887. Tib also ensure for us a penceful iiuirch from the C'oiioo
March 9. (^iii.,)„M^ \{y^ tei'i'itoi'v, u thill*'' thut woiil<l have l)eeii
GoodHope. ^*y ^^^^ iiieaiis p()ssil)le without him — as his various
hordes of raiders will be widely scattered throuf>hout
the region ; and it is scarcely likely that we should be
allowed to pass in peace, resenting, as they must naturally
do, their late rupture with Deane. Having bound Tippu-
Tib to me I feel somewhat safe against that constant
fear of desertion of the Zanzil)aris. No Arab will now
persuade the people to desert, as is their custom when
a white man's Expedition passes near their settlements.
Tippu-Tib dare not countenance such proceedings in
this case.

The Madura is a comforta])le steamer. On the
Oriental and Navaritio we were uncomfortably crowded.
Tween decks abreast of the boilers is rather a hot pla<te
for the people ; but we have had agreeable weather, and
the men have preferred to stow themselves in the Ixjats,
and among the donkeys, and on deck, to the baking
heat below.

Two hours from Zanzibar, what is called a " shindy "
took place betw^een the Zanzibaris and Soudanese.
For a short time it appeared as though we should have
to return to Zanzibar with many dead and wounded.
It rose from a strugojle for room. The Soudanese had
been located directly in the way of the Zanzibaris, who,
being ten times more numerous, reijuired breathing
space. They were all professed Moslems, but no one
thought of their religion as they seized upon firewood
and pieces of planking to batter and l)ruise each other.
The battle had raj^ed some time l)efore I heard of it.
As I looked down the hatchway the sight was fearful —
blood freely tl(jwed down a score of fa(;es, and ugly
pieces of firewood flew al)out very lively. A command
could not be heard in that uproar, and some of us
joined in with shillelaghs, directing our attacks upon
the noisiest. It re(j[uired a mixture of persuasiveness and
sharp knocks to reduce the fractious factions to order,
especially with the Soudanese minority, who are huge
fellows. The Soudanese were marched out of their

'shindy' between zaszibaius and .socdaxese. 7n

place and located aft, and the Zanziharis had all the i«s7.
forward half of the ship to themselves. After \v<> had ^''^'''^ ^•
\vi[)e(l the hlood and perspiration away 1 conipli- noodTini.o.
mented the otticers, especially Jejihson, Nelson, and
Bonny, for their share in the fray. They had he-
haved most gallantly. The result of the scrimmage
is ten broken ai'ms, fifteen serious gashes with speais
on the face and head, and contusions on shouldei's
and backs not worth remark, and several abrasions (jf
the lower lind)s.

Surgeon Parke has l)een very Imsy A'accinating the
entire comnmnity on boartl ship. Fortunately 1 had
procured a large supply of lymph for this purpose,
because of the harsh experience of the past.

We also divided the people into seven companies of
about ninety men each.

I have ordered my Agent to send me 200 loads of
various goods to meet the Expedition at ^Isalala, south
end of Lake Victoria. They will be sent about October
or November, 1887, arriving at Msalala in February or
March, 1888, because if everything proceeds as I should
wish, we shall be somewhere near tliere not very long
after that date.

*Jk Jk ^L ^

*|C Tff 7ft TJT

I have been in the company of my otticers since I
left Aden, and I have been quietly observing them. I
will give you a sketch of them as they apjDear to me
now.

Barttelot is a little too eager, and will have to be
restrained. Tliere is abundance of \vork in him, and this
<{uality would be most lovely if it were always according
to orders. The most valuable man to me would be he
who had Barttelot's spirit and " go " in him, and wIk^
could come and ask if such and such a work ought to
be done. Such a course suo-o-ests thoui»htfulness and
willingness, besides proper respect.

Tliere is a great deal in ]\lounteney Jephson, though
he was supposed to be effeminate. He is actually fierce
when roused, and his face becomes dangerously set and
fixed. I noted him during the late battle aboard, and

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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5^:^.

f/.

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1.25

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L£ 12.0

^el

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yW^

Photographic

SciencRS
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4303

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

1SH7. I caiiie near ciyiiig out " Bravo, Jephsoii ! " t]iouo;li I

March 9. j^.^j my owii Stick, " l)ig as a mast," as the Zanzibaris

G.^od Hope, "^'ly, to wield. It was most gallant and plucky. He

will be either made or marred if he is with this

Expedition long enough.

('a})tain Nelson is a fine fellow, and without the
oliost of a liobhv : he is the same all round, and at all
hours.

8tairs, of the Royal Engineers, is a splendid fellow,
painstaking, ready, thoughtful, and industrious, and is
an invaluable addition to our staff.

Jameson is still the nice fellow we saw : there is
not an atom of change in him. He is sociable and
i;()od.

Bonnv is the soldier. He is not initiative. He
seems to have been under a martinet's drill.

# ♦ « « «

March \m, 1887.

At Cape Town, Tippu-Tib, after remarking the pros-
perity and business stir of the city, and hearing its
history from me, said that he formerly had thought all
white men to be fools.

" Really," I said ; " Why ? "

" That was my opinion."

"Indeed! and what do you think o^ them now?" I
asked.

"■ I think thev have something in them, and that
they are more enterprising than Arabs."

" What makes you think so, particularly now ? "

" Well, myself and kinsmen have been looking at
this town, these big ships and piers, and we have
thought how much better all these things appear com-
pared to Zanzibar, which was captured from the
Portuguese before this town was built, and I have been
wondering why we could not have done as well as you
white people. I begin to think you must be very
clever.

" If you have discovered so nmch, Tippu-Tib, you are
on the hiiih road to discover more. The white men

AliliJVAL AT THE MOUTH OF THE t'UXGO ItlVElL 75

?" 1
that

<X at
lave
om-
the
)eeii
you
very

recjuire a deal of study before you can <juite make them
out. It is a pity you never went to Enghind for a
visit. '

" I hope to go there l>efore I die."

" Be faithful to us on this hmg journey, and 1 will
take you there, and you will see more things than you
can dream of now."

" Inshallah ! if it is the will of Allali we sliall mo

March ItJ.
Cajie'l'owri.

together."

« « 4( « «

On the 18th March the Madura entered tlie moutli of
the Congo River, and dropped her anchor al)out '200
yards abreast of the sandy point, called Banana.

In a few minutes I was in the presence of Mr. l.afon-
taine Ferney, the chief Agent of the Dutch C\)mi)any,
to whom our steamer was consigned. Through some
delay he had not l)een informed of our intending to
arrive as soon. Everybody ju'ofe 'sed surj)rise, as tliey
did not expect us before thi Hath, lait tliis fortunate
accident was solely due to the captain and the good
steamer. However, I succeeded in makinu; arrani»ements
by which the Dutch CVanpany's steamer K. A. Nianan
— so named after a fine vounij man of that name, who
had lately died at St. Paul de Loanda — would l)e placed
at my disposal, for the transpoit to Mataddi of 2.'i0
men next day.

On returning to the ship, I found my officers
surrounding two English traders, connected witli the
British Congo Company of Banana. They were saying
some unpleasant things about the condition of tlie State
steamers. " Tliere is a piece of tlie Sfaiih't/ on sliore
now, whicli will <;ive von an idea of that steamer. Tlie
StanJi'i/ is a perfect ruin, we are told. However, will
you leave the Pool ? The State has not one steamer in
service. They are all drawn up on the banks for
repairs, which will take months. We don't see how you
ai'e to . get awav from here under six weeks ! I^ook at
that big steamer on the sands ! she has just come out
from Europe ; the fool of a captain j-an her on shore
instead of waiting for a pilot. She has got the sections

IN DARKEHT AFRICA.

Congo
Ikiver.

1H87. of a steamer in her liold. The Ileran and Behjiquf, ])otli
March 18. '^^.^^^^ steamers, have first, of course, tf) float that steamer
ofl". You are in for it nicely, we can tell you."

Naturally, this news was very disc'ouraging to our
officers, an«l two of them hastened to comfort me with
the disastrous news. They were not so well acquainted
with the manners of tlie " natives " of tlie Lower C'onao
as I was. I onlv marvelled whv thev had not been
politely re«peste<l to accompany their new aquaintaiices
to the cemeterv, in order that thev miojht have the
ex(|uisite gratification of exhibiting the painted liead-
])<)ards, which record the deaths of manv fine voung
men, as promising in appearance as they.

I turned to the Agent of the British f'ongo, and
requested permission to charter his steamer, the Allm-
qaerqiw. The gentleman graciously acceded. This
assured me transport for 140 men and GO tons cargo.
I then begged that he and his friend would negotiate for
the charter of the large paddle boat the Serpa Pinto.
Their good offices were entirely successful, and before
evening I knew that we should leave Banana Point
with 680 men and 160 tons cargo on the next da v.
The State steamer Ileroti I was told would not be able
to leave l>efore the 20th.

On the 19th the steamers A'. ^1. Kicman, Albuquerque,
and Serpa Pinto, departed from Banana Point, and
before nijjht had anchored at Ponta da Lenlia. The
next day the two former steamers steamed straight
up to Mataddi. The Serpa Pinto hauled into the pier
at Boma, to allow me to send an official intimation of
the fact that the new Governor of Stanley Falls was
aboard, and to receive a hurried visit from two of the
Executive C Commit tee charged with the administration
of the Congo State.

We had but time to exchange a few words, but in
that short time they managed to inform me that thc'^
was a " famine in the country " ; that " the villages ah)ng
the road to the Pool were abandoned " ; that " the Sfanlef/
was seriously damaged " ; that " the Mission steamers
Peace and Ilenr^/ Peed were in some unknown pai'ts of

VOSDITION OF THE CONGO RlVEli STEAM EL'S.

I i

'rque,
and
The

raight

Kiver.

the Upper (V)iigo'' ; that "the En Evcuit was on shore i887.
without machinerv or })oiler ; " that '* tlie A. /. vl. was ^'•"■'''' ^*'-
500 miles above Stanley Pool " ; and tliat " tlie l\(ii/(d
was perfectly rotten ; " and had not heen employed foi' a
vear ; in faet, that the whole of the naval stock
promised did not exist at all except in the imagi na-
tion of the gentlemen of the Bureau at Brussels; an<l,
said one, who seemed to he the principal of tlie Executive
( ommittee, with deliherate emphasis: "The Itoats were
onlv to assist vou if thev could he yiven without
])rejudice to the service of the State."

The grutf voice of the Portuguese captain of the
SerjHt Pinto ordered the gentlemen on shore, and wc
proceeded on our way up the ( 'ongo.

^\y thoughts were not of the pleasantest. Witli my
flotilla of fifteen whale boats 1 might have l»een
independent; but there was an objection to the Congo
route, and therefore that plan was abandoned. AVe had
no sooner adopted the East (V)ast route than the
Sovereign r f the Congo State invited the Expedition to
pass through his territory ; the Clermans had murnuired,
cind the French Government protested at the idea of
our marching through East Africa. When it was too
late to order the flotilla of whale boats frcmi Forrest and
Son we then accepted the C^)ngo route, after stipulating
for transport up the Lower CVjngo, for porterage to
Stanley Pool, and the loan of the steamers on the Cpper
Congo which w'ere now said to be wrecked, rotten, or
without boilers or engines, or scattered inaccessible. In
my ears rang the cry in England : " Hurry up, or you
mav be too late!" and sin<»inf>' throuoh mv memory
were the words of Junker : " Emin will be lost unk'ss
immediate aid l»e given him;" and f^min's appeal for
help; for, if denied, " we shall perish."

"Well, the aspect of our work is ominous. It is not
my fault, and what we liave to do is simple enougli.
We have given our promise to strive our level l»est.
It is no time for regret, but to struyolc and "steer
right onward." Every article of our verltal bond,
having accej)ted this responsildlity, we must perfoim,

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

ill

1887.
March 19.

Congo
Kiver.

and it is the manner of this performance that I now
propose to rehite.

I shall not delay the narration to give descriptions of
the route overland to the Pool, or of the Upper Congo
and its banks, as these have been suffir-ientlv treated of
in ' Through the Dark Continent,' and ' The Congo and
the Founding of its Free State ' ; and I now propose to
be very brief with the incidents of our journey to
Yand)uya, at the Jiead of navigation on the Aruwimi.

CHAPTER IV.

TO STANLEY POOL.

Dct.ails of tlic jonrney to Stanley Pool — The Soudanese and the Somalis
— ^lectins with Mr. Herbert Ward— Canij) at Congo la Leniba —
Kindly entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Bicliards — I^etters from uj)
river — Lettei-s to the Rev. Mr. Bentley and others for assistance —
Arrival at Mwembi — Necessity of enforcing discii)line— IMarch to
Vom bo— Incident at Lnkungu Station — The Zanziliaris — Incident
l)etween Jephson and Salini at the Inkissi River— A series of
complaints— The Rev. Mr. Bentley and the steamer I'air>—\\Q
reach Makoko's village — Leopoldville— Difficulties regarding the use
of the Mission pteamers — Monsieiir Liebrichts sees Mr. Biliington —
Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kinshassa — Orders to and duties of the
officers.

Ox the 21st of March the Expedition (lel)aike(l at the
hiii(ling-phxce of tlie Portuguese trading-house of Senor
Joda Ferrier d'Al)ren, situate at Mataddi, at a distance of
108 miles from the Atlantic. As fast as the steamers
were discharged of their passengers and cargo they cast
ort" to return to the seaport of Banana, ov the river
port below.

About noon the Portuguese gunboat Kacom/o hove in
sight. She brought Major Barttelot, Mr. Jephson, and
a number of Soudanese and Zanzi])aris ; and soon after
the state steamer I/cron l)rought up the remaimler of
the caro;o left on board the M<«lura.

We set up the tents, stored the immense quantity of
rice, biscuits, millet, salt, hay, etc., and bestirred our-
selves like men with unlimited work l)efore us. Every
tticer distinguished himself — the Zanzibaris showed by
their celerity that they were glad to be on shore.

( )ur European party now consisted of Messrs. Barttelot,
Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, Parke, Bonny, who had voyaged
with me from Aden, Mr. Walker, an engineer, who had

.March ->l.
MiUiuldi.

y.V DAIiKJCST AFJiJCA.

1HH7.
March 21.

Matad.li.

II if

i(mR'«l us at the r{i[)t'. Mr. In^^hani. jin c'x-( Juard.snmn,
who was our Conyo Ayent for collectioii of native
carriers, Mr. .lohn Rose Troup, who liad ])een despatclied
to su[)erintend native porterage to tlie Pool from Mun-
yan<i;Ji< «>Ji<l «i l^iropean servant.

On the folh)winL'' (hiy 171 porters, carrving 7 boxes
liiscuits = 420 ll)s., 157 hags of rice = 10,205 Ihs., and
Iteads. departed from Mataddi to Lukungu as a reserve
store foi' the lv\|)edition on arrival. There were
180 sacks of 170 Ihs. each - ;}0.(;00 Ihs. besides, ready
to follow or precede us as carriers offered themselves,
and which were to ])e dn^pped at various places
rih ronfc, and at the Pool. Couriers w^ere also sent
U\ the Pool witii recjuest to the Commandant to hurry
up the repairs of all steamers.

On the second <hiy of arrival, Mr. Ingham appeared
with 2'20 cai'riers, engaged at a sovereign per load for
conveying goods to the Pool. Lieutenant Stairs practised
with the Maxim automatic gun, which fired -'J30 shots
per minute, to the great admiration of Tippu-Tib and his
followers.

On the 25tli the trumpets sounded in the Soudanese
camp at 5.15 A.M. By 6 o'clock tents were folded, the
companies were ranged by their respec^tive captains, and
near each company's stack of goods, and by 6.15 A.M. I
marched out with the vanguard, behind which streamed
the Expedition, according to their company, in single
file, bearing with us 4()() separate "charges" or porter-
loads of ammunition, cloth, beads, wire, canned pro-
visions, rice, salt, oil for engines, brass rods, and iron
wire. The setting out was admira})le, ])ut after the first
hour of the march the mountains were so steep and
stony, the sunshine was so hot, the loads so heavy, the
men so new to the work after the glorious plenty on
board the Madura, and we ourselves were in such an
overfed condition, that the Expedition straggled in the
most disheartening manner to those not prepared for
such a sight. Arriving at the first river, the Mpozo,
the Advance was already j* tinted, and we were ferried
over to the other bank by fifties, and camped.

•(Isnum,

native

patclicd

11 jMiiii-

( boxes

)S., UIK

reserve
e were
. ready
iiselvert,
places
^o sent
o hurry

ppeared
oad for
ractised
JO shots
and his

udanese
ed, the

ins, and

A.M. I

earned
single
porter-
1 pro-
d iron
le first
ep and
vy, the
ntv on
uch an
in the
red for
Mpozo,
ferried

K
a:

e
c

^!'i

THE soritASKsK A\n tin-: somaus.

The Soudaneso were u wretclKMl sio-lit. The Soniulis

1HH7.

wore toleraUk', tliuu<;li tlicy luul giuinhlcd oicatly Mar.h2\
iK'caiise there were no camels. The lonner sliovve*! ^'j'"^"
reniarka}»ly l)a(l temper, ('overed with their liooded
ffreat-coats, they had endured a terriltk' atmosphere,
and the effects of heat, fatigue, and little worries were
very prominent.

The next day we camped in the grounds of Pala]»alla,
belonging to the Livingstone Inland Mission, and wero

MAXIM AUTOMATIC GCN.

most hospitably treated l)y Mr. Clarke, the superin-
tendent, and ladies. As our men were so new to their
work, we halted the next (hiy. By the officers' returns
I found that nine had died since leaving Zan/iltar, and
seventeen were so ill that we were compelled to leave
them at Palaballa to rei^uperate.

We resumed the march on the 28th, and reached
Maza Mankengi. On the road Mr. Herbert Ward was
met, and volunteered as a member of the Expedition.

'IF

/X UMth'HST AFIilCA.

lfiH7.
M.ticli 'Js.

Miiiikfiiiri,

\\(\ was (Mi<;a<^iMl, and scut to Mataildi to assist Mr.
Iiin'iimi witli tlio jiative transport. Mr. Ward had lieoii
of late years in the servi<'e of the Coiij^o State, and
previously liad wandered in New Zealand and Borneo,
and was always regarded hy nie as a young man of great
promise.

We were in camp ])y noon of the "JDtli at Congo la
Lcnd)a. on the site of a ])lace I knew some years ago as
a Honrishing village. The chief of it was then in his
glory, an undisputc<l master of the district. Prospeiity,
liowever, spoiled him, and he liegan to exact tolls from
the State caravans. The route heing Mocked hy his
insolence, the State sent a force of liangalas, who cap-
tui'CMl and l)ehea<led him. The village was hurnt, and
the |)eoj)le fled elsewhere. The village site is now
coveied with tall grass, an<l its guava, palm, and lemon-
trees are choked with reeds.

There was a slight improvement in the oi'der of the
march, hut the heiiinninu' of an Expedition is alwavs a
trying time. The Zanziliaris carry (55 ll)s. of ammuni-
tion, 9 ll)s. per riHe, four days' rations of rice, and their
own kit, which mav be from 4 to 10 lbs. weit^ht of cloth
and bedding mats. After they have become acclimated
this weight appears light to them ; but during the first
month we have to be very' careful not to make long
marches, and to exercise much forbearance.

A heavy rain detained us the early part of next day,
but soon after nine we moved on and reached the Lufu
River. It was a terribly fatiguing march. Until mid-
night the peo])le came streaming in, tired, footsore, and
.sour. The officers slept in my tent, and supped on
))iscuits and rice.

Near the Mazamba Wood we passed Baron von
Rothkirch supervising a party of Ka]>indas, who
were hauling the Florida's shaft. At the rate of
progress they would probaldy reach the Pool about
August next ; and at the Bembezi Ford a French trader
was met des(;ending with a fine hjt of ivory tusks.

We passed the Mangola River on the 31st, when I
was myself disabled by a fit of sickness from indulging

riioiiitKss cr rill-: coxnn iiiviut.

in the ji;uHvas of (on«;() la l.ciulta. and on the 1st April
we travelled to Ban/a Maiiteka. At the \.. 1, Mission
}Ay. and Mrs. l^ichards most kindly entertained ns. At
this place a few years' mission work has proilnced a
great change. Nearly all the native pojtulation had
liecome professed Christians, and atteiuled Divine
service pnnctnally with all the fervonr of revivalists.
Youn<; men whom i had known as famous «'in-<lrinkers
had l)ec(mie solter, decent men, and most mannerly in
behaviour.

I received tliree letters from up river, one from
Troup at Manyanga, Swin])urne at Kinshassa, and(Jlave
at Equator Station, all giving a distressing account of
the steamers Stanhnj, 1\'<(C(\ llcun/ Jurd, and /v/2
Anuit. The first is (himaged throughout according to
my informants, the Mission steamers re(|uire thorough
overhauling, the Ln Annif has been reduced to a
harge. Mr. Troup suggests that we carry a lighter or
two from Manyanga to the Pool, a thing utterly impos-
sible. We were alreadv overloaded because of the
rice we carried to feed nearly 800 people througli
the starving country. In order to lighten our work
slightly Messrs. Jeplison and Walker were despatched
with our steel boat, the Advance, by the Congo to
^[anyanga.

AVe passed by the Lunionzo River on the ;Jrd, and
the next day camped on the site of the abandoned
village of Kilolo. During the march I passed a
Soudanese trying to strangle a Zanzibari because the
wearied man had slifflitlv touched his shoulder with his
box. The spleen the Soudanese show is extremely ex-
asperating, but we must exendse patience yet awhile.

A march of three hours brought us to the Kwilu
River, with the usual ups and downs of hills, which tire
the caravan. At the river, which is 100 yards wide and
of strong current, was a canoe without an owner. We
took possession of it, and began to cross the Advance
Company by tens.

The opportunity afforded by the ferriage was seized
by me to write appealing letters to the Commandant at

IHH7.
A|)H> 1.

Miintuko.

/•

IN DARKEST AFIilCA.

1887.
April 3.

Kvvilu
Kiver.

tij

lit'

Stanley Pool to interpret the orders of the Minister of
the Interior, Strauch, according to the generous spirit
expressed by King Leopold when he invited us to seek
Emin Pasha via the Conoco. Another was directed to
the Rev. Mr. Bentley, of the Baptist Mission, requesting
him to remember the assistance I gave the Baptists in
18C0-84, and to be prepared to lead the steamer Peace
that I might hurry the Expedition away from the
poverty-stricken region around Stanley Pool. Another
was despatched to Mr. Billington, superintendent of the
Henry Reed, in similar terms, reminding him that it
was I who had given them ground at Stanley Pool.
Another to the Commandant of Lukungu Station, request-
ing him to collect 400 carriers to lighten the labours of
my men.

On reaching Mwembi the 6th April, I was particularly
struck with the increase of demoralization in the
caravan. So far, in order not to press the people, I
had been very quiet, entrusting the labour of bringing
the stragglers to the younger men, that they mig-ht
become experienced in the troubles which beset Expedi-
tions in Africa ; but the necessity of enforcing discipline
was particularly deuKHistrated on this march. The
Zanziliaris had no sooner pitched the tents of their
respective officers than they rushed like madmen among
the neighbouring villages, and commenced to loot native
property, in doing which one named Khamis bin
Athman was sh(^t dead by a plucky native. This fatal
incident is one of these signal proofs that discipline is
lietter than constant forbearance, and how soon even an
army of licentious, insubordinate, and refractory men
would be destroyeii.

It had probably been believed by the mass of the
people that I was rather too old to supervise the march,
as in former times ; but on the mai'cli to \'om))o, on the
7th, everyone was undeceived, and the last of the
lengthy caravan was in camp 1)y 11 a.m., and each officer
enjoyed his lunch at no<m, with his mind at ease for
duty done aiul a day's journey well made. There is
n( ►thing more agreeal)le than the feeling one possesses

INCliEASE OF DEMORALIZATION IN THE VARA VAN. 8;

after a good journey briefly accomplished. We are i8ft7.
assured of a good day's rest ; the remainder of the (hiy is ^'""'^ ^•
our own to read, to eat, to sleep, and be luxuriously
inactive, and to think calmly of the morrow ; and there
can scarcely be anything more disagi-eea])le than to know
that, though the journey is but a short one, yet relaxa-
tion of severity permits that cruel dawdling on the road
in the suffocating high grass, or scorched by a blistering
sun — the long line of carriers is (^rumpled up into per
spiring fragments — water far when most needed ; not a
shady tree near the road ; the loads rol)bed and scattered
about over ten miles of road ; the carriers skulking
among the reeds, or (tooling themselves in groves at a
distance from the road ; the officers in despair at the day's
near close, and hungry and vexed, and a near prospectt of
some such troubles to recur again to-morrow and the
day after. An unreflecting spectator hovering near our
line of march might think we were unnecessarily cruel ;
but the application of a few cuts to the (M)nfirmed
stragglers secure eighteen hours' rest to about 800
people and their officers, save the goods from being
robbed — for frequontly these dawdlers lag behind pur-
posely for such intentions — and the day ends hap{)ily
for all, and the morrow's journey has no horrors for us.

On the 8th the Expedition was welcomed at Lukungu
Station by Messrs. Francqui and Dessauer. These hos-
pitable Belgians had of their own impulse gathered four
days' rations for our 800 people, of potatoes, bananas,
brinjalls, Indian corn, and palm nuts.

No sooner had we aU assembled than the Soudanese
gathered in a body to demand more food. In fifteen
days they had consumeil each one 40 lbs. of biscuit and
rice ; and they announced theiv intention of returning to
the Lower Congo if more rati^uis were not served out.
The four days' rations of vegetables they disdained to
touch. I had resolved to be very patient ; and it was
too early yet to manifest even the desire to be otlier-
wise. Extra rations (jf rice and l)iscuits were accord-
ingly served out.

Fortunately for me personally there were good officers

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Ml'

1887.
April 8.

Lukungu.

with me who (^ould relieve me of the necessity of coming
into conflict with wilful tellows like these sulkv,
obstinate Soudanese. I reserved for mvself the role of
mediator between exasperated whites and headstrong,
undisciplined l)lacks. Provided one is not himself
worn out l)y ])eing c(nnpelled throughout the day to
shout at thick-headed men, it is a most agreeable
work to extenuate offences and soothe anger. Probably
the angry will turn away muttering that we are partial ;
the other party perhaps thirsts for more sympathy on
its F.ide ; but the mediator must be prepared to receive a
rul) or two himself.

Thinking that there would l)e less (chance of the
Soudanese storming so furiously against the Zanzibaris
on tl.e road, I requested Major Barttelot to keep his
Soudanese a day's march ahead of the Zanzibaris.

It will not be surprising that we ^11 felt more
sympathy for the loaded Zanzibaris. These formed our
scouting parties, and foragers, and food purveyors ; they
pitched our tents, they collected fuel, they carried the
stores ; the main strength of the Expedition consisted of
them ; without them the Europeans and Soudanese, if
thev had ])eeu ten times the number, would have Ijeen
of no use at all for the succour of Emin. The Soudanese
carried nothing but their rifles, their clothing, and their
rations. By the time they would be of actual utility we
should be a year older ; they might perhaps fail us when
the hour of need came, l)ut we hoped not ; in the mean-
time, all that was necessary was to keep them moving on
with as little trou])le as possi])le to themselves, the
Zanzibaris, and us. The Major, however, without doubt
was sorely tempted. If he was compelled to strike
during these days, I must admit that the Soudanese
were uncommonly provoking. Job would have waxed
wrathful, and become profane.

The heat was terrible the day we left Lukungu—
the 10th. The men dropped down on all sides;
chiefs and men succum])ed. We overtook the Soudanese
again, and the usual scufHing and profanity occurred as
an unhappy result.

EXPEBJEyX'ES OF THE MARCH.

On Easter Monday, the lltli, the 8oiuhuiese Company
was stricken down with fever, and hinientation was
general, and all but two of the Somalis were prostrated.
Barttelot was in a furious rage at his unhappy C\)mpany,
and expressed a wish that he had l)een doing Jephson's
duty with the boat. I received a letter from Jephson
in the evening, wherein he wrote that he wished to be
with us, or anywhere rather than on the treacherous and
turbulent Congo.

The following; dav saw a f()underin<»; caravan as we
struggled most wretchedly into camp. The Soudanese
were miles from each other, the Somalis were all ill ;
one of those in the boat with Mr. Jephson had died.
Liebig, and meat soups, had to be prepared in sufficient
quantities to serve out cupfuls to each weakened man
as he staggered in.

Lutete's was reached the next day, and the ex-
periences of the mar(;h were similar. We suffer losses
on every march — losses of men ])y desertion, by illness,
of rifles, boxes of canned provisions, and of fixed am-
munition.

At Nselo, on the Inkissi River, we encountered
Jephson, who has seen some novelties of life during
his voyage up the Congo rapids to ]\lrnyanga.

The sun has commenced to paint our faces a vermilion
tint, for I see in each officer's face two inflamed circles
glowing red and ])right under each eye, and I fancy
the eyes flash with greater ])rilliancy. Some of them
have thought it would l)e more picturescpie, more of the
ideal explorer type, to have their arms })ainte(l also, and
have bared their milk-white arms until they seem
bathed in flame.

The IGtli April we employed in ferrying the Expe-
dition across the Inkissi River, and l)v 5.. '50 P.M. every
soul was across, besides our twenty donkeys and herd of
Cape goats.

Durino; the ferriage some hot words were exchanoed
between Salim, son of Massoud, a brother-in-law of
Tippu-Tib, and Mr. Mounteney Jephson. who is the
master of the boat. Salim, since he has married a

1887.
April 11.

Lukungu.

IX DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
April 16.

Nselo.

.sister of Tippu-Til), aspires to ])e 1)eyon(l censure ;
liis conceit has made him abominably insolent. At
Mataddi's he chose to impress his views most auo-
gantly on Lieutenant Stairs ; and now it is with Mr.
Jephson, who briefly told him that if he did not mind
his own business he would have to toss him into the
river. Salini savagely resented this, until Tippu-Tib
appeared to ease his clioler.

At the next camp I received some more letters from
Stanley Pool. Lieutenant Lie])richts, the conlmissaire of
the Stanley Pool district, wrote that the steamer Starilet/
would be at my disposition, and also a lighter ! The
En Avant would not ))e ready for six weeks. Another
was from Mr. Billington, who declined most positively
to lend the Ileurj/ Reed.

One of my m(jst serious duties after a march was to
listen to all sorts of complaints — a series of them were
made on this day. A native rol)bed by a hungry
Zanzibari of a cassava loaf required restitution ; Binza,
the goat-herd, imagined himself slighted because he was
not allowed to participate in the delicacy of goat tripe,
and solicited my favour to obtain for him this privilege ;
a Zanzibari weaklino;, starving; amidst a \vell-rati(3ned
camp and rice-fed people, ])egged me to regard his
puckered stomach, and do him the justice to see that he
received his fair rations from his greedy chief Salim,
Tippu-Tib's henchman, complained that my officers did
not admire him excessively. He said, " They should
remember he no Queen man now he Tippu-Ti])'s brudder-
in-law " (Salim was formerly an interpreter on board a
British cruiser). And there were charges of thefts of a
whinstone, a knife, a razor, against certain incorrigible
purloiners.

At our next camp on the Nkalama River, which we
reached on the 18th April, I received a letter ])y a
courier frcnn Rev. ]\Ir. Bentley, who informed me that
no prcdiibition had 1)een received by him from England
of the loan of the Baptist mission steamer Peace, and
that provided T assured hiin that the Zaiizil)aris did
nothing contrary to missionary character, which he as a

LETTEliti FROM STANLEY POOL.

missionary was desirous of maintainino-, that lie would
be most happy to surrender the Peace for the service of
the " Emin Pasha Relief Expedition." Though very
grateful, and fully impressed with his generosity, in this
unnecessary allusion to the Zanzibaris, and to this covert
intimation that we are responsible for their excesses, Mr,
Bentley has proved that it must have cost him a struggle
to grant the loan of the Peace. lie ought to have
remembered that the privilege he obtained of building
his stations at Leopoldville, Kinshassa, and Lukolehi
was gained by the labours of the good-natured Zanzi-
baris, who though sometimes tempted to takie freedoms,
were generally well behaved, so much so that the
natives preferred them to the Houssas, Kabindas, Kru-
boys, or Bangalas.

On the 19th we were only able to make a short march,
as each day witnessed a severe downpour of rain, and
the Luila near which we camped had become dangenmsly
tur])ulent.

On the 20th we reached Makoko's village. The
Zanzibaris were observed to be weakening rapidly. They
have been compelled to live on stinted rations lately,
and their habit of indulging in raw manio<! is very
injurious. A pound of rice per day is not a large ration
for working men, but if they had contrived to be con-
tented on this scanty but wholesome fare for a while
they would not be in a robust condition, it is true, but
there certainlv would be less illness. Durinu' this march
from the Lower Congo we had consumed up to date
27,500 lbs. of rice — about 13 tons — so that the resources
of the entire region had been severelv taxed to obtain
this extra carriaoe. The natives havino- Hed from tlie
public paths, and our fear that the Zanzibaris, if per-
mitted to forage far from the camp, would commit
depredations, liavel)een the main cause of their plucking
up the poisonous manioc tubers, an<l making themselves
wrettthedly sick. There were alxnit a hundred men on
this date useless as soldiers or cari'iers.

Arriving at Leopoldville on the 21st to the great
delight of all, one of my tii'st disc(>veries was the fact

1887.
April 18.

Nkiil.inia
Kiver.

r-'

IN DARKEur AFRICA.

1887.
April 21.

Leopold-
ville.

that the Sitanlcj/, a small lighter, our steel ])oat the
Adramr, and the mission steamer Pence were the only
boats availal)le for the transport of the Expedition up
the Congo. I intrcjduce the following notes from my
diary : —

LeopohlviUe, April 22nd. — We are now 345 miles
from the sea in view of Stanley Pool, and before us free
from rapids are about 1100 miles of river to Yam])uya
on the Aruwimi whence I propose resuming the land
journey to Laks Albert.

Messrs. Bentley and Whitley called on me to-day.
AVe spoke concerning the Peace. They said the vessel
required many repairs. I insisted that the case was
urgent. They finally decided after long consultation
that the repairs could be finished by the 30tli.

In the afternoon I took Major Barttelot and Mr.
Mounteney Jephson into my confidence, and related to
them the difficulties that we were in, explained my
claims on the consideration of the missionaries and the
urgent necessity of an early departure from the foodless
district, that provisions were so scarce that the State
were able to pro(;ure only 60 full rations for 146 people,
and that to supply the others the State officers had
recourse to hunting the hippopotami in the Pool, and
that we should have to pursue the same course to eke
out the rice. And if 60 rations can only be procured for
146 people by the State authorities, how were we to
supply 750 people I I then directed them to proceed
to Mr. Billington and Dr. Sims, and address themselves
to the former principally — inasmuch as Dr. Sims was an
unsuccessful applicant for a position on this Expedition
— and explain matters fairly to him.

Tliev were absent about an hour and a half, and
returned to me crestfallen, — they had failed. Poor
]\Iaj<n' ! Poor Jephson !

^lonsieur Liebrichts, who had formerly served with
me t)n the Congo at Bolobo, was now the Governor of
the Stanley Pool district. He dined with me this
evening and heard the story as related by Major Barttelot
and Mr. Mounteney Jephson. Nothing was kept back

DIFFICTLTIES JiKGAJiDIXa MISSION STEAMERS.

from him. He knew much of it previously. He agreed \axi.

heartily with our views oi thiiios and acknowledged that ■^'"''' "^
" • .I'll

there was great urgency. Jephson said, "■ I vote we seize ^'vml/"

the llcnn/ Reed.'

" No, my friend Jephson. We must not he rash.
AVe must give Mr. Billington time to consider, who
would assuredlv understand how much his mission was
indebted to me, and would see no ditticulty in chartering
his steamer at double the price the Congo State paid to
him. Those who subsist on the charitv of others
naturallv know how to be charitable. We will trvayain
to-morrow, when I shall make a more formal re(|uisiti()n
and offer liberal terms, and then if she is not conceded
we must think what had best be done under the cir-
cumstances. '

April 'l'?)r<L — Various important matters were at-
tended to this morning. The natives from all parts in
this nei^hl)oi.rhood came to revive acquaintance, ami it
was ten o'cio('k before 1 was at liberty.

Ngalyema was somewhat tedious with a long story
about grievances that he had borne patiently, and
insults endured without plaint. He described the
change that had come over the white men, that of
late they had ])ecome more imperious in their manner,
and he and other chiefs suspecting that the change
boded wo oood to them had timidly absented them-
selves from the stations, the markets had ])een
abanihjned, and consequently food had become scarce
and very dear.

Havino- oiven my sympathy to my old friends I called
Barttelot and fFephson and read to them a statement of
xirmer kindnesses shown to the ' Livingstone Inland
Mission.' " When you have spoken, recpiest in the name
of charity and humanity, and all good feeling, that Mr.
Billington allow me to offer lil)eral terms for the charter
of the Henry Ilecd for a period of sixty days.

Barttelot was inspired to })elieve that his elo(|uence
would prevail, and asked permission to try in his way
once more.

" Very good, Major, go, and success attend you."

If M

fi 1

\mi

1 1

1887.
Aju-il 2:$.

Leopold'
ville.

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

contenting

" I'm sure I shall suceeecl like ti shot,' said the Major
confidently.

The Major proceeded to the Mission House, and Mr.
.fej)lison accompanied him as a witness of the proceedings.
Presently 1 received a characteristic note from the Major,
\v1k) wrote that he had argued ineffectually with the
missionaries, principally with Mr. Billington, but in the
presence of Dr. Sims, who sat in a chair
himself with uttering remarks occasionally.

Lieutenant Liebrichts was informed of the event,
and presented himself, saying that this affair was the
duty of the State.

Monsieur Liebrichts, who is undou})tedlv one of the
most distinojuished officers in the Congo State, and who
has well maintained the high character described in a
former book of mine, devoted himself with ardour to
the task of impressing Mr. Billington with the irration-
ality of his position, and of his obstinacy in declining
to assist us out of our difficulties in which we had been
placed by the fault of circumstances. To and fro
throughout the day he went demanding, explaining,
and expostulating, and finally after twelve hours pre-
vailed on Mr. Billington to accept a charter upon the
lil)eral terms offered ; namely, £100 per month.

April 24:f/i. — Mustered Expedition and discovered we
are short of 57 men, and 38 Remington rifles. The
actual numl)er now is 737 men and 496 riHes. Of bill-
hooks, axes, shovels, canteens, spears, &c., we have lost
over 50 per cent. — all in a twenty-eight days' march.

Some of the men, perhaps, will return to their duties,
but if such a laro;e number deserts 3000 miles from
their native land, what might have been expected had
we taken the East Coast route. The Zanzibar head-men
tell me with a cynical bitterness that the Expedition
would have been dissolved. They say, " These people
from the clove and cinnamon plantations of Zanzibar
are no better than animals — they have no sense of
feeling. Tli<iy detest work, they don't know what silver
is, and they have no parents or homes. The men who
have homes never desert, if they did they w^culd be so

LIEUT, LIEBRICHTS AND MR. BILLISGTON.

J Major

.m\ ]\Tr.

iedings.
i Major,
ith the
■j in the
tenting

event,
vas the

of the
nd who
ed in a
Aour to
nation -
eclining
id been
;n(I fro
huning,
irs pre-
jon the

Bred we
The
)f bill-
ve lost
irch.
.luties,
from
ed had
ad-men
>edition
people
mzibar
nse of
silver
en who
be so

laughed at bv their neif>li])ours tliat tliev could not
live." There is a great deal of truth in these remarks,
but in this Expedition are scores of confirmed bounty-
jumpers who are only awaiting opportunities. In in-
specting the men to-day I was of the opinion that only
about 150 were free men, and that all the remainder
were either slaves or convicts.

Mr. J. S. Jameson has kindly volunteered to proceed
to shoot hippop(^tami to obtain meat. We are giving
1 lb. of rice to each man — ^just half rations. For the
officers and our Arab guests I have a Hock of goats,
about tliirt}' in number. The food presents from the
various chiefs around have amounted to 500 men's
rations and have been very acceptable.

Capt. Nelson is busy w^th the axemen preparing fuel
for the steamers. The Stanlej/ must depart to-morrow
with Major Barttelot and Surgeon Parke's companies,
and debark them at a place above the Wampoko, when
they will then march to Mswata. I must avail myself
of every means of leaving Stanley Pool before we shall
be so pinched by hunger that the men will become un-
controllable.

April 25t/i. — The steamer Stanley, steamed up river
with 153 men under Major Barttelot and Surgeon
Parke.

I paid a visit to Kinshassa to see my ancient secretary,
Mr. Swinburne, who is now manager of an Ivorv Tradin<j
Company, called the " Sanford Exploring Company."
The hull of his steamer. Florid (t, being completed, he
suggested that if we assisted him to launch her he
would be pleased to lend lier'to the Expedition, since she
was of no use to anybodv until her machiiiew and shaft
came up with Baron von Rothkirch, who proba])ly would
not arrive before the end of July. I was only too glad,
and a number of men were at once ordered up to begin
the operations of extending the slip to the river's edge.

Our engineer, Mr. John Walker, was detailed for
service on the Henri/ Reed^ to clean her up and prepare
her for the Upper Congo.

One Soudanese and one Zanzibari died to-day.

1887.
April 'J4.

Leopold*
ville.

or,

IX DAllKEST AFRICA.

1 I

1887. .-I///'// '17fli.- Tliirtoi'ii Zanzil)iiriH antl one Soudanese,

Ainii 27 j,£ those left l)ehiiul from illness, at stations on the
ins assa. ^^.^^^, \\i\y{} uM'ived. Tlicy report havino; sold their ritteH
and sapper's tools !

Ajn'il 2Hf/i.-~ Struck C) ind marched Expedition

overland to Kinshassa that 1 might personally super-
intend launching of hull of steamer, Florida, which we
ho{)e to do the (hiy after to-moiTow, when the ship is
finished. We are heing hospitably entertained mean-

LAUNCHING THE STEAMEB "FLORIDA.'

while by Mr. Antoine Oreshoft", of the Dutch Company,
and Mr. Swinburne of the San ford Company.

Api-ll 20fh. — In camp at Kinshassa under the baobabs.
The steamers Stanley and Henry Heed, towing- barge
Kn Avant arrived.

April 'iOth. — The hull of the Florida was launched
this morning. Two hundred men pulled her steadily
over the extended slip into the river. She was then
taken to the landing-place of the Dutch Company and
fastened to the steamer Stanley.

OliDEIiS ISSUED TO Tilt: oFtK'KliS.

\)\

Eticli ofticer whs furnished with the phiii of enibarka- \mr.
tioii, and directed to begin work of loading the steamers _.'^'"^'' ''**•
according to programme.

The following; orders were also issued : —

Kinshassa.

The Officers commanding companies in this Expedition arc—

E. M. Barttelot

W. G. Stairs .

R. H. Nelson .

A. J. Mountcney Jephson

J. S. Jameson

Jolm Rose Tronp .

T.H. Parke .

Company

No. 1,

Sondanese.

Zanzibaris.

3
4
5

Major .
Captain

M • • J> O ,,

Captain and Surgeon „ 7, Somalis and

Zanzibar is.

j\Ir. William Bonny takes charge of transjiort and riding animals and
live stock, and a.'-sists Surgeon Parke when necessary.

"Each officer is personally responsible for the good
behaviour of his company and the condition of arms and
accoutrements."

'• (Officers will inspect frctjuently cartridge-pouches of
their men, and keep record to prevent sale of ammu-
nition to natives or Aral)s."

"For trivial otfenccs — a slight corporal punishment
only can be inflicted, and this as seldom as possi])!e.
( )tHcers will exercise discretion in this matter, and en-
deavour to avoid irritating the men, bv beino- too
exacting, or showing unnecessary fussiness."

"It has been usual for me to be greatly forbear-
ing — let the rule be, three pardons for one punish-
ment."

"Officers will please remember that the lal)our of the
men is severe, their burdens are heavy, the climate hot,
the marches fcitiguing, and the rations poor and often
scanty. Under such conditions human nature is ex-
tremely susceptible, therefore punishments should be
judicious, not vexatious, to prevent straining patience
too much. Nevertheless discipline must be taught,
and when necessary enforced for the general well-
being."

" Serious offences affecting the Expedition generally
will be dealt with by me."

VOL. I. H

!■ ;■

'd\

IN DAJiKEST A Fine A.

1887.
April :iU.

'* While on 8liip])oard one officer will be detailed to
perform the duties o' the day. He must see to the dis-
tribution of rations, ship cleaned, and that no fighting
or wrangling occurs, as knifing soon follows unless
checked, that the animals arc fed and watered regularly.
For all petty details apply to the senior officer. Major
Barttelot."

'h. I

CHAPTER V.

FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA.

Upper Congo scenery —Accident to the Peace — Steamers reach Kimpoko
— Collecting fuel — The gc^d-for-nothing I'eare — The Stanley in
trouble — Arrival at Bolobo -Tho Relief Exi)edition arranged in two
columns— Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson chosen for conunand of
Eear Column — Arrival at Erpiator and IJangala Stations — The
Biisoko villages: Baruti deserts us — Arrival at Yamlmya.

1887.
May 1.

Upper

As I luue already expatiated at large upon the descrip-
tion of scenes of the Upper Congo, 1 intend to expunge
altogether any impressions made on us according to our ^'°°S"
varying moods during our river voyage of about 1100
miles to Yambuya. I will confine myself to the in-
cidents.

The days passed quickly enough. Their earlier hours
presented to us every morning panoramas of f(jrest-land,
and mvriads of forest isles, and br(^ad channels of dead
calm water so beshone l)y the sun that they resembled
rivers of quicksilver. In general one might well have
said that they were exceedingly monotonous, that is if the
traveller was moving upward day l)y day past the same
scenes from such a distance as to lose perception of the
details. But we skirted one bank or the other, or
steered close to an island to avail ourselves of the deep
water, and therefore were saved from the tedium of the
monotony.

Seated in an easy-chair scarcely 40 feet from the
shore, every revolution of the propeller caused us to see
new features of foliage, bank, trees, shrubs, plants, buds
and blossoms. We might be indifferent to, or ignorant
of the character and virtues of the several plants and
N'aried vegetation we saw, we might have no interest in

100

IN DARKEST AFlilCA.

1887.
May 1.

Upper
Congo

any portion of the shore, but we certainly forgot the
lapse of time while observing the outward forms, and
were often kindled into livelier interest whenever an
inhabitant of the air or of the water appeared in the
field of vision. These delightful views of perfectly
culm waters, and vivid green forests with every sprig
and leaf still as death, and almost unbroken front line
of thick leafy l)ush sprinkled with butterflies and moths
and insects, and wide rivers of shining water, will remain
longer in our minds than the stormy aspects which

STAXLKY ri)()L

disturbed the ex(juisite repose of nature almost every
afternoon.

From the middle of ^larch to the mi(hlle of May
was the rainy season, and daily, soon after 2 r.M.,
the sky l»etokened the approach of a lowering tempest ;
the sun was liidden by the dark portents of storms, and
soon after the thunderbolts rent the gloom, lightning
blazed through it, the rain })ou)'ed with tropical copious-
ness, {tnd general misery prevailed and the darkness of
the niglit followed.

Nature and time were at their best for us. The river
was neither too high n(»r too low. Were it the former

VPl'EIl CONGO SCENEBY

101

we should have had the difficulty of fiii«''"iig uniiuiiidated
ground; had it been the latter we should have l)een
tediously delayed by the shallows. We were permitted
to steer generally alwut 40 yards from the left hank,
and to enjoy without interruption over 1000 miles of
changing hues and forms of vegetable life, wliich for
their variety, greenness of verdure, and wealth and scent
of flowers, the world cann<it eipud. Tornadoes were rare
during the greater portion of the day, whereby we escaj)ed
many terrors and perils ; they occurred in the evening
or the night oftener, when we should be safelv moored to
the shore. Mosquitoes, gadflies, tsetse and gnats were
not so vicious as formerly. Far more than half the jour-
ney was completed l)efoi'e we were reminded of their
existence by a few incorrigible vagrants of each species.
The pugnacious hippopotami and crocodiles were on this
occasion well-behaved. The aborigines were modest in
their expectations, and in many instances they gave
goats, fowls, and eggs, l)ananas and plantains, and
were content with " chits " on Mr. John Rose Troup,
who would follow us later. (Jur health was excellent,
indeed remarkably good, compared with former erqie-
riences ; whether the English were ])etter adapted phy-
sically, or whether they declined to yield, I know not,
but I had fewer complaints on this than on any previous
expedition.

On the 1st of May the start up the Congo was com-
menced with the departure of the Jhniri/ Jtn'd and two
l)arges, witli Tippu-Tib and DG followers and 35 of
our men. Soon after her followed tlie Staiilet/ and her
consort t\\e Florid a, \\'\t\\ 336 people, besides G donkeys,
and cargoes of goods ; and lialf-an-hour later tlie
Peace attempted to follow, with 135 passengers on
board; but the good wishes of the people on sh(»re had
scarcely died away, and we were l)reasting the ra{)id
current, when her rudder snapped in two. Her oa])tain
commanded the anchors to bo di'opped, which ha})])ened
to be over exceedinjilv ruowd oround where the cui-rent
was racing six knots. The boat reeled to her beam ends,
the chains tore her deck, and as the anchors could not

1887.
M;.y 1.

Upjier
Congo.

lifi

r i!:

^ii I it;

1887.
May 1.

Upper
Congo.

102

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

be lifted, being foul among the rocks below, we had to
cut ourselves loose and to return to Kinshassa landing-
place. Captain Whitley and Mr. David Charters the
engineer set to to repair the rudder, and at 8 p.m. their
task was completed.

The next morning we had better fortune, and in due
time we reached Kimpoko at the head of the Pool, where
the other steamers awaited us.

The P"aci' led the advance up river on the 3rd ; but
the Stanley drew up, passed us, and readied camp an
hour and a half ahead of us. The Henry Reed was last
because of want of judgment on the part of her captain.

The Peace was spasmodic. She steamed well for a
short time, then suddenly slackened speed. We waited
half an hour for another spurt. Her boiler was a system
of coiled tul)es, and her propellers were enclosed in twin
cylindrical shells under the stern, and required to be
driven at a furious rate before any speed could be
obtained. She will probably give us great trou])le.

As soon as we camped, which we generally did about
5 P.M., each officer mustered his men, for wood cutting
for the morrow's fuel. This was sometimes very hard
work, and continued for hours into the night. The
wood of dead trees required to be sought by a num])er of
men and conveyed to the landing-place for the cutters.
For such a steamer as the Stanley it would require fifty
men to search for and carry wood for (juite two hours ;
it would require a dozen axemen to cut it up into 30-incli
lengths for the urates. The Pear.e and llenrri Reed re-
quired half as many axes and an equal amount of time to
prepare their fuel. It must then be stored on board the
steamers that no delay might take place in the morn-
ing, and this recpiired some more work before silence,
which befits the night, could be obtained, and in tlie
meantime the tires were blazing to afford light, and the
noise of crashing, cutting, and splitting of logs continued
merrily.

The good-for-nothing Peace continued to provoke
us on the 4th May. She was certainly one of the
slowest steamers any shipbuilder could build. We

THE STEAMERS ''PEACE'' AND "STANLEY." 103

had to
.nding-
jrs the
I. their

in due
, where

d ; but
mp an
vas hist
;aptain.
1 for a
waited
system
in twin
. to he
>uld be
le.

I about
cutting
y hard
The
nber of
utters,
e lifty
lours ;
?0-inch
ccd re-
ime to
rd the
niorn-
silence,
in the
nd the
tinned

Drovoke

..f tlie

halted every forty-five minutes or so to " oil up," i887.
and sometimes had to halt to clear out the cylinders of *^"^ **
the propellers, had to stop to raise steam, to have the collgo.
grate cleared out of charcoal, while five minutes after
raising steam up to 60^, she fell to 40°, and then l^5°, and
the poor miserable thing floated down stream at the rate
of a knot an hour. We lost seven days at Stanley Pool
through her ; a day was lost when the rudder broke ;
we were fated to be belated.

The next day, the 5th, we made fast to the landing-
place of Mswata. The Major and Dr. Parke had arrived
four days previously. They had prepared quantities of
fuel, and had purchased a large pile of provisions —
loaves of bread from the manioc root and Indian
corn.

On the 6th the Major and his companions received
orders to march their men to Kwamouth, and await the
steamer. The Staitkf/ was ordered to proceed to Bolobo,
debark her passengers, and descend to Kwamouth .to
convey Barttelot and men, while we reorganized com-
panies at Bolo])o.

On the 7 til we observed the Stanlei/ steamer ashore
on the left bank near Chuml)iri, and proceeding to her
to inquire into the delay discovered that she was badly
injured by running on a rocky reef. The second section
had l)een pierced in four separate places and several
rivets knocked out and others h^osened. We therefore
set to with the engineers of all the other steamers to
repair her, but Messrs. Charters and Walker, both
Scotchmen, were the most effective at the repairs. We
cut up some old sheet iron oil drums, fonned plates of
them, and screwed tliem in from the outside. This was
a very delicate labour, rcijuiring patience and nicety of
tt)uch, as tliere were two feet of water in the hold, and
the screws re(|uired to be felt to place the nuts on, as
well as the punching of holes through the bottom of the
steamer. The engineer was up to his waist in water, and
striking his chisel through an element that broke the blow,
then there was the preparation of the plate to correspond
with the holes in the steamer, spreading the minium.

104

IN DARKEST AFBTCA.

I %

1887.
May 7.

Ul)per
Congo.

i !^

I !

I i:

V i

! ji

then a layer of canvas, and another layer of minium.
When everything was ready for fixing the iron plate, a
diver was sent down, the iron plate with its canvas patch
and minium layers in one hand, and the end of a string
attached to a hole in the plate in the other hand. The
diver outside had to feel for the corresponding hole in
the steamer, and the engineer up to his hips in water
within the hold felt for the end of the twine, which
when found, was drawn in gently, and the plate carefully
guided, or the bolt was slipped in, and the engineer placed
the nut on. For hours this tedious work went on, and
by evening of the 7th, one large rent in the steel
hull had been repaired ; the 8th and 9th were
passed before the steamer was able to continue her
voyage.

On the 10th the Stanh\f/ caught the asthmatic Peace
up, and passed us in company with the llennj Reed.
A few hours later the Peace sulked altogether, and
declined to proceed. C)nly 30 11 )s. steam could ])e
maintained. We were therefn-e compelled to make fast
to the shore. At this period j\Ir. Charters' face possessed
more interest than anything else in the world. We
hung on his words as though they were decrees of Fate.
He was a sanguine and cheerful little man, and he
comforted us exceedin;]i:lv. He was sure we would arrive
in Bolol^o in good time, though we did not appear to be
proceeding very rapidly while tied to the shore.

The next dav we tried aoain startino- at 4 a.m.,
resolved to distinguish ourselves. For an hour the
Peace behaved nol)ly, l)ut finally she showed symptoms
of relapse. The steam descended lower and lower, and
could not retain 5 ll)s., and we therefore cast anchor. At
10 A.M. the case appearing hopeless, I despatched Mr.
Ward in the whale l)oat to ()])tain assistance from the
Jlenri/ Jieed, and at eight at night she appeared and
anchored sixty yards from us, and all the day we had
been idly watching the dark l»rown current How l)y,
anchored in mid-stream at least 500 yards from either
shore or island, seeing notliing but hippopotami, grassy
clumps, weeds, and debris of woods floating by. On

DECISION AS TO COMMAND OF HEAR COLUMN. 105

the 12tli we arrived ignominiously at Bolobu iii tuw of i887.
the Henry Feed. ^^ l^^'

When the traveller reaches Uyanzi such a thing as congo.
famine is scarcely possible, and one of the best river
ports for al)undance and variety of food is Bolobo.
Here, then, after reaching a district where the people
could recuperate and forget the miseries of limited
rations endured since leaving Lukungu, was the place to
form the Relief Expedition into two colunms.

It was decided that as the force could not l)e trans-
ported on one voyage to the Upper Congo, that the
healthiest men should be selected to proceed t<^ Yaml)uya,
and that the weakly should remain in B(dol)o as a
portion of Major Barttelot's column under Messrs, Her-
bert Ward, and William Bonny, until the Sf<in/'- /
should return from Yambuya. We had started frojii
England with the cry of '' urgency " in our ears and
memories, and it behoved us t(^ speed on as well as
circumstances would permit in obedience t<j the necessity,
trusting that the rear column would ])e able to follow
on our tracks some six or nexen weeks later.

We accordingly selecte<l 125 men who appeared
weakest in body, and left them at Bolobo to fatten up
on the bananas and excellent native bread and fish that
were easily procurable here. The Sf(nil<')/ in the mean-
time had descended to Kwamouth with ^lajor Barttelot,
Dr. Parke, and 153 men.

The vexed question was also settled here as to who
should take charoe of the rear column. It l)eini>' the
most important post next to mine, all eyes were natu-
rally directed to the senior officer, Major Barttelot. It
was said that he had led a column of a thousand men from
Kosseir on the Eed Sea to Keneli on the Nile, and that
he had distinguished himself in Afo'lianistan and in the
Soudan Campaign. If these facts were true, tlien un-
doubtedly he was the fittest otfic(M" for the office of
commanding the rear column. Had there l)eeu a person
of equal rank with him, I should certainly have dele-
gated this charge to another, not because of any kno^v^l
unfitness, l»ut l)ecause he was so eager to acc(>nq)any the

106

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
May 12

Upper
Congo.

I :

3 lyKiiM

advance column. On reflecting on the capacities and
rank of the other gentlemen, and their eaoerness being
too well known to me, I informed the Major that I could
not really undertake the responsibility of appointing
youthful lieutenants to fill a post that devolved on him
by rank, experience, and reputation.

" One more steamer like the Stanlej/ would have
done it, Major, completely," I said, cheerfully, for
the young officer was sorely depressed. "Only 125
men and a cargo of goods left of the Expedition. All
the rest are on board comfortably. If you can discover
some better person than yourself to take your place
l)etween here and Yambuya, I would gladly know him.
I hope you will not take it too much to heart. For
what does it matter after all ? You who bring up the
rear are as much entitled to credit as we in the advance.
If Tippu-Til) will only be faithful, you will only be six
weeks behind us, and you may overtake us, for we shall
be naturally delayed a great deal, finding the track and
boring our way through all kinds of obstacles. You
will follow an indicated path, and fre(|uently you may
be able to make two of our marches in one day. If
Tippu-Tib does not join us, you will be master of your
own column, and you will be so occupied with your task
that the days will slip by you fast enough. And I tell
you another thing for your comfort, Major ; there is
plenty of work ahead of us, wherein you shall have the
most important part. Now tell me, who would you
wish for ycjur second ? "

" Oh, I would rather leave it to you."

" Nay, I would prefer you would select some one friend
as your companion, to share your hopes and thoughts.
We all of us have our partialities, you know."

" Well, then, I choose Jameson."

" Very well, Mr. Jameson shall be appointed. I will
speak to him myself I will then leave JNIr. Rose Troup,
who is a capital fellow, I have reason to Ijelieve, and
young Ward and Bonny. Both Troup and Ward speak
Swahili, and they will be of vast service to you."

In this manner the matter was arranged, and on the

WE BEACH BANG ALA STATION.

107

15t'.i of ]\Iay the flotilla resumed tlie up-river voyage,
C(mveying 511 persons of the Expedition, and Tippu-
Tib and ninety of his followers.

We made a fair journey on the IGth, the repairs on
the Peace having greatly improved hci rate of progress,
and on the 19tli made fast to the shore near the Baptist
Mission of Lukolela, though the Stanley did not make
her appearance until late on the 19th.

We halted on the 20th at Lukolela, to purchase food
for our journey to Equator Station, and we were
extremely grateful for the kind hospitality shown to us
by the missionaries at this station.

On the 24th of May we arrived at Equator Station,
now owned by the Sanford Company, which was repre-
sented by Mr. E. J. Glave, a young and clever York-
shireman. Captain Van Gele was also here, with five
Houssa soldiers lately returned from a futile effort to as-
cend the Mobangi higher than Mr. Grenfell, the missi<jn-
ary, had succeeded in doing some months previously.

We reached Bangala Station on the 30th May. This
place was now a very large and prosperous settlement.
There was a garrison of sixty men and two Krupps, for
defence. Bricks were made, of excellent (][uality ; 40,000
had already been manufactured. The establishment was
in every way very creditable to Central Africa. The
chief, Van Kirkhoven, was al)sent at Langa-Langa. He
had lately succeeded in releasing twenty-nine Iloussa
soldiers from slavery. During the escape ofDeane from
Stanley Falls, these Houssas had precipitately retreated
into a canoe, and had floated as far as Upoto when they
were captured as runaways by the natives of the district.

Among other good qiialities of Bangala, there is a
never-failing supply of food. The station possessed
130 goats and a couple of hundred fowls, which supplied
the officers with fresh eoffs. Ten acres were c;reen with
a promising rice crop. The officers enjoyed wine of palm
and banana, and fermented beer made of sugar-cane,
and exceedingly potent I found the latter to be.

At Bangala I instructed Major Barttelot to proceed
wdth Tippu-Tib and party direct to Stanley Falls, having

1887.
May 15.

Upjier
Congo.

i ,

1887.
Way 30.

Upper
Congo.

1U8

IN DARKEST AFIilCA.

first taken out thirty-five Zanzi])aris from the ])oat.s, and
rephiced them with forty Soiuhmese, that none of the
Zanziharis niiyht become a('(|uainte(l with the fact that
Stanley Falls was hut a few days' march from Yambuya.

«j' t/ •>

With the exception of certain irregularities in the
behaviour of the steamer Sftnilet/, which l)y some
niNsterious manoeuvres disappeared amid intricate
passages, on the plea that sufficient fuel of a right
quality could be found, we steameil up to the Aruwimi
River without any incident, and arrived at our ancient
camp, opposite the Basoko villages, on June 12th.

The Basokcj were the countrymen of Baruti, or
*' Gunpowder," who had been captured by Karema when
a child, in 1883, and had l>een taken to England by 8ir
Francis de AVinton, with a view of impressing on him
the superiority of civilized customs. Fr(mi Sir Francis'
care Baruti passed into mine, and here we were at last
in view of his natal village and tribe, from which he had
been absent six years.

Seeing Baruti eyeing with excessive interest the place
of his birth, he was encouraged by me to hail the
Basoko, and invite them to visit us. My previous
attempts at winning the confidence of these forest
natives had l)een failures, though in time I was sure
there would be no ditticulty. For a long period it had
been an interestino- (luestion to me why aborioines of
the forest were more intractable and coy than natives of
the open country. The same methods had been applied,
the danolinu" of some briuht or oaudv article of barter,
the strings of beads of dazzling colour, suspended
patiently, the artful speech, the alluring smile and
gesture, all were resorted to for long hours, but always
ending with disappointment and postponement to a
more leisurely occasion. But the reason is that the
forest has been always a handy fastness for retreat,
the suspicion of the stranger, and the convenient depth
of trackless woods plead strongly against some indefinite
risk. The least advance causes a precipitate l)ackw^ard
movement until he gains the limits of the forest, anci
then he stands to take a last survey, and finally dis-

MY BLACK BOY BARUTI AND I/IS BROTHER.

109

ta, and
of the
?t that
nl)uya.
in the
some
itricate
I right
ruwimi
ancient

uti, or

a when

l)y Sir

)n him

^'rancis'

at hist

he had

le pLnce
lail the
revious
forest
as sure
it had
nies of
ives of
oplied,
)arter,
tended
e and
always
t to a
at the
retreat,
depth
ilefinite
ekward
st, and
lly dis-

appears into the gh)om with an air of " It won't (h), you
know ; you can't come over me." Wliereas in the open
country the native has generally some coign of vantage,
some eminence, a tree or an ant-hill, from the crest of
which he has taken his (observations, and been warned
and informed of the character of the strangers, in the
forest the stranger meets the tenant of the woods
abruptly ; he has advanced out of the unknown, with

1887.
June 12.

Uj^er
Congo.

BAUUTI FINDS HIS BROTHEB,

purpose unfathomed. Surprise is in the face of one,
terror marks the face of the other.

Baruti hailed, and the canoes advanced towards us
with a tediously slow process, but finally they ap-
proached within easy hearing. He recognized some (jf
the canoe-men, and informed them that they had no
cause for fear. He asked for a person whose name he
uttered, and the wild men hallooed the word with
splendid lung-power across the river, until some one
resp(jnded, and eml)arked in a canoe an<l approached.
This turned out to be Baruti's elder brother. Baruti

110

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

ill

ll«

1ii

1887.
June 12.

Upper
Congo.

demanded to know 1k)\v his ln-otlier fared, after so many
years of absence. The l)rother eyed him vacantly, couhl
not recognize any feature in him, and grunted his doubt.

Baruti mentioned the name of his parents, that of his
father, and afterwards that of liis mother. Great in-
terest now manifested itself in his brother's face, and he
skilfully drew his canoe nearer.

" If you are my brother, tell me some incident, that
I may know you."

" Thou hast a scar on thy arm — there, on the right.
Dost thou not remember the crocodile ? "

This was enough ; the young, broad-chested native
gave a shout of joy, and roared out the discovery to his
countrymen on the further bank, and Baruti for the first
time shed tears. The young fellow drew near to the
ship, forgot his fears of the strangers, and gave Baruti a
frantic hug, and the other canoes advanced to participate
in the joy of the two restored brothers.

In the evening Baruti was offered his choice of staying
in his village among his tribe, or of following our
adventures ; at the same time he was advised not to
leave us, as life among the Basoko Avould be very
insecure with the Arabs in such close j)roximity as
Stanley Falls.

The lad appeared to think so too, and so declined to
be restored to his native land and tribe ; but a day or
two after reachins; Yambuva he altered his mind, came
into my tent in the dead of night, armed himself with
my Winchester rifle and a brace of Smith and Wesson
re\'olvers, a supply of rifle and revolver cartridges, took
possession of a silver road- watch, a silver pedometer, a
handsome belt with fitted pouches, a small sum of
money, and, possessing himself of a canoe, disappeared
down river to some parts unknown, most probably to
his tril)e. At any rate, we have never seen or heard
of him since. Peace be with him I

On the 15th of June we arrived opposite Yambuya
villages, situated on the left bank of the Aruwimi,
96 miles above the confluence of the Aruwimi and the
Congo.

CHAPTER VI.

AT YAMBUYA.

We land at Yambuya villages — The Stnvlei/ leaves for Equator Staiion —
Fears regarding; Major Barttelot and the Ilenrn /I'm^— Safe anival —
Instructions to Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson respecting the
Eear Column — Major Barttelot's doubts as to Ti])i)U-Tib"s good
faith— A long conversation with Major Barttelot — Memorandum tor
the officers of the Advance Column — Illness cf Lieutenant Stairs —
Last night at Yambuya — Statements as to our forces and accoutre-
ments.

We were now over 1300 miles from the sea. Opposite U) ,^^f"v
us were the Yilhiges which we hoped, with tlie goodwill vamijuya.
of the natives, to occupy temporarily as a depot for the
men and stores left at Bolobo and Leopoldville, 125
men and about 600 porter-loads of impedimenta ; if not
with the natives' g(jodwill by fair purchase of the
privilege, then by force.

On an exploring visit in 1883 I had attempted
to conciliate them without any permanent result.
We had a very serious object in view now. In
prospective we saw only the distant ports of the
Nile and the Albert Nyanza, defended bv men ever
casting anxious glances to every cardinal 2)()int of the
compass, expectant of relief, as they must by this time
l)e well informed by our couriers from Zanziluir ; l)ut
between us and them was a broad region justly marked
with whiteness on the best maps extant. Lo<)king at
that black wall of f(jrest which had been a continuous
bank of tall woods from Bolobo hitherto, excej)t when
disparted by the majestic streams pouring their volu-
minous currents to the parent river, each of us probably
had his own thouohts far hidden in the recesses of the
mmd. Mine were of that ideal Governor in the

112

/.v ik[i:ki:st afuica.

* '

i«H7. midst of his <fiii'ns(nis. cliccriiiu' iind ciicoiirnijinir Iiis
' ""' ■'■ valiaiit soKliei's, poiiitiiiu with hand (»utsti'('t<'h('<l to
the (lii'cctioii wIk'ik'O tlio ('Xpcctcd rcliei \V(»uld surely
a})pi'oacli if it were the will of (Jod, and in the dis-
tance heyond I saw in my imagination the Malidist
hor(h's advancing with frantic cries and thrillin^i;-
enthusiasm crying' (Uit, " ^'allah, ^'aHah." until from end
to end of the swavini"' lines the crv was heard rolliu""
throuiih I he host of fer\id and fanatical warrioi's, and
on the <jthei' sides multitudes (jf savages vowed toexter-

A TYPICAL vii.r.AtM-: ox Tin; lower

AKIWI.MI.

SPiliS#f!fliPii«n*'

mination l>iding their time, and ])etwcGn them and us
was this hui;e area of the unknown without a track or a
i)ath.

Ammunition was served out l)y tlie captains of tlie
coni[)anies, and instructions were issue<l to them to have
steam up on hoard their respective steamers that we
might connnence the first most important move pre-
paratory to marchini'' towards the Alhert Xvanza.

At six o'clock in the morning of the 1 (Jtli of .June the
Peair ulided from her l>ertli until she was a])reast of
the Sffftiiei/. and when near enough to he heard, I re-
quested the officers to await my .signal. Then, steaming

LXriTKMKST OF THE SATIVKS DF YAMIUYJ. 113

irciitlv across till' I'ivcr, \\v att('iiU)t(Ml t<» soothe tlio fears ,^*^'^v.
and (luiet the excitement ot the natives l»y reniaininuf y.j,,,!^^^^
ald'east of the ureat crowd that stood upon the Itliifi'y liank
fifty feet ahove us, rei'ardiiiL' uswitli \voii(h'r and ciiriositv.
Our intei'p'-eter was well able to make himself uiider-
stoo<l, for the nativ(\s of the lower Aruwimi s})eal< hut
one lan<i^ua_iie. After an hour's interchange of (•om[)li-
ments and friendlv |)hrases, thev were induced to send a
few of the hohh'st down to the river's edue, and l»v a
slight movement of the helm the current pushed the

<k^.

nd us
< or a

)f tlie

> have

lat we

pre-

ne the
!ast of
I re-

unt I.AXDIXf; AT YAMBIYA.

steamer close to the l)ank. where anotlier liour was
passed in entreaty and coaxing on our })art, denials and
refusals on the other. AVe succeeded in the purchase of
one of their knives for a liberal (piantity of ])eads !
Encourao-ed bv this, we commenced to neootiate for
leave to reside in their villaoe for a few weeks at a price
in cloth, beads, wire, or iron, but it was met with
consistent and firm denial for another hour.

It was now nine o'clock, my throat was dry, the snn w'as
getting hot, and I signalled to the steamer Stanleij to

VOL. I. I

u 'I W.

IN DARKKtiT AFRICA.

18«7.
Juiifi 16.

Yambuva.

come nciuss and join us, and when near enough, aeeoixl-
ino- to agreement, a second signal caused the steam
wliistles to sound, and under cover of the deafening
sounds, pent up as they were ])y tlie h.)fty walls of the
forest, ])oth steamers were steered to the shore, and the
Zanzi])aris and Soudanese scramliled up the steep sides
of the hlurt' like monkeys, and when the summit was
ijained not a villaoer was in sig-ht.

We found Yambuya settlement to c<mBist of a series
of villaoes of conical huts extendintj along the crest of
the hank, whence far-reaching views of the Aruwimi up
and down stream could be obtained. The companies
were marched to their respective quarters. Guards
were set at the end of every pjtth leading out. Some
of the men were detailed to cut wood for a palisade,
others to colie(;t fuel, and several scjuads were de-
spatched to ascertain the extent of the fields and their
locality.

In the afternoon two natives from a village below
Yambuya made their appearance w4tli a flattering con-
fidence in their demeanour. They belonged to the Baburu
tribes, to which these various fragments of tribes between
Stanley Falls and the Lower Aruwimi l)elong. They
sold us a few bananas, were well paid in return, and
invited to return with more food, and assurance was given
that they need be under no alarm.

On the next day men were sent to collect manioc
from the fields, others were sent to construct a palisade,
a ditch was traced, workers were appointed to dig a
trench for sinking tin stockade poles, woodcutters were
sent to work to prepare to load the steamers with fuel,
that with their weakened crews they might not be sur-
prised on their return journey to the Pool, and every-
where was life and activity.

Several captures were made in the woods, and after
being shown everything, the natives were supplied
with handfuls of beads to convev the assurance that
no fear ought to be entertained of us and no harm done
to them.

On the 19th fuel sufficient had been cut for six days*

aeeord-
; steam
iafeiiing
i of tlie
and the
ep sides
111 it was

a series
crest of
wiuii up
iiiipaiiies
Guards
Some
palisade,
i^ere de-
md their

re below
I'iug con-
B Bahuru
between
They
urn. and
'as given

manioc
palisade,
dig a
ers were
ith fuel,

l)e sur-
every-

nd after
supplied
lice that
rm done

■^ix days*

YAMB UYA SE TTLEMENT.

115

steaming for the Stanlci/ with which slie couhl proceed
t(j E(|uator Station. A clie(j[ue was drawn for X'50 in
favour of the Captain, and another for a similar amount
for the engineer, on Ransom, Bouverie & Co., and both
were handed in tlieir presence to .Mi'. Jameson to be
presented to them on their return from Stanley Bool,
provided they safely reached Yambuya about the middle
of August. A valual)le jewel was sent to Lieutenant
Liebrichts as a token of my great regard for liim
The Stdiilcj/ left next morning with my letters to the
Emin Relief Committee.

The Peace was detained for the sake of a(;companying
her consort, the Jleiiri/ Ueed, which was now hourly
expected from Stanley Falls according to the instruc-
tions given to Major Barttelot, as she ought to have
rea(;l]ed us on the 19th.

In a wild country like this, cannibals in the forest on
either hand, and thousands of slave raiders in such a
ch)se vicinity as Stanley Falls, we were naturally
prone to suspect the occurrence of serious events, if
one's expectations were not promptly and punctually
realized. jVIajor Barttelot had passed the mouth of the
Aruwimi on the 1 1th inst. in ccmimand of the steamer
lleuri/ /»V(v/, conveying Tippu-Tib and i)arty to a settle-
ment from which an English commandant and gari'iscm
had been precipitately ousted. True, the Arab diief
had been verv confident in his manner, and earnest in
the assurance that in nine days after arriving at his
settlement he would present himself at Vanibuya with
600 carriers in acconhince with his agreement, and 1 was
loth to believe that he was in any way responsible for
this detention of the Major. Vet the JNlajor sliould
have reached Stanley Falls on tlie 13th, on the evening
of the 14th he should have been at the mouth of the
Aruwimi again, and on the lOth at Yam})uya ; that
is, provided the Major was gifted with the spirit of
literal performance and permitte<l nothing to tempt him
to delay. It was now the 2 1st. The officers were con-
fident that nothing had occurred but the delays natural
to circumstances of existence in Africa, but hourly 1

18«7.
.lune 17.

Yambuya.

1887.
June 21.

Vanibuya.

116

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

found myself straying to the edge of the bluff sweeping
the view down river with my glass.

On the 22nd my uneasiness was so great that I penned
an order to Lieutenant Stairs to take fifty of the ])est
men, and the ^laxim machine gun, to proceed down river
on the morning of the 2;3rd with the Peace to search for
the Henry Reed, and if all other eventualities mentioned
and explained had not transpired to proceed to Stanley
Falls. On arriving before this settlement if the vessel
was seen at the landing-place, and his friendly signals
as he advanced were not responded to, he was to
prepare everything for assault and re-capture of the
steamer, and to hurry back to me with the news if
unsuccessful.

At 5 P.M., however, the Zanzibaris rang out the
-welcome cry of " Sail ho ! " Barttelot was safe, no
;accident had occurred. Tippu-Tib had not captured
the vessel, the Soudanese had not mutinied against the
Major, the natives had not assaulted the sleeping camp
by night, the steamer had not been sunk by a snag nor
had she ])een run aground, and the boat for whicli we
were morally responsible to the ^Mission was in as good
order and condition as when she left Stanlev Pool. But
in xVfrica it is too wearing to be the victim of such
anxieties.

The Major had been simply detained by various mis-
chances — fighting with natives, palaver with Tippu-Tib
and men, &c. &c.

Two days later the steamers Peace and Ifeun/ Reed
were loaded with fuel and despatched homeward down
river, and we had severed the last link with civilization
for many a month to come.

On this day I <lelivered the foUowing letter of instruc-

ii(His to Major Barttelot, and a copy of it to Mr. J. S.

Jameson his second in command.

June 2ith, 1887.

To Major Bauttelot, &c., &c., &c.

Sin,— As the senior of those officers accompanying me on the Emin
Pasha Relief Expedition, the coniniautl of this important post natnrally
devolves vn yon. It is also for the interest of the Expedition that yon
accept this command, from the fact that your Soudanese company, heing

LETTER OF IXSTRUCTIOX TO MAJOR BARTTELOT. 117

sepmg

)eime(l
le best
11 liver
I'd I for
itioned
iituiiley

vessel
siii'iuils
A'as to

of the
Lews if

lUt the
afe, no
iptured
list the
g camp
nag nor
licli we
as o()()(l
1. 'But
of such

lus mis-
;)pu-Til>

7/ Reed

|1 down

lization

liiistruc-

Ir. J. S.

\h, 18H7.

tho Emin

1 naturally

that you

iny, being

only soldiers, and more ca])able of ^'arrison duty than tlic Zanzibaris,
will be better utilized than on ttie road.

The steamer StdtiJci/ left Yaiubuya on the 22iid of this month for
Stanley Pool. If she meets wiili no mischance she oupht to bo at
Leopoldville on the 2nd of July. In two days more she will be loaded
with aliout 500 loads of our goods, which were left in charfi;o of ^Ir.
J. E. Troup. This jrentleman will embark, and on the 4th of July
I assume that the Sfanlei/ will commence her ascent of the river, and
arrive at Bolobo on the 9th. Fuel beiii<;- ready, the 125 men in charge of
Messrs. Ward and Bonny, now at Bolobo, will embark, and the steamer
will continue her journey. She will be at Bangala on the 19th of July,
and arrive here on the 31st of July. Of course, the lowness of the river
in that month may delay her a few days, but, having ereat confidence in
her captain, you may certainly expect her before the 10th of August.*

It is the non-arrival of these goo^s and men which com])el me to
appoint you as conunander of this post. But as I shall shortly exjiect
the arrival of a strong reinforcement of men,t greatly exceeding the
advance force which must, at all hazards, push on to the rescue of Emin
Pasha, 1 hope you will not be detained longer than a few days after the
departure of the Staiil-ij on her final return to Stanley Pool in August.

Meantime, pending the arrival of our men and goods, it behoves you
to be very alert and wary in the connnand of this stockaded camp.
Though the camp is favourably situated and naturally strong, a brave
enemy would find it no difficult task to capture if the connnatider is lax
in discipline, vigour and energy. Therefore I feel sure that I have made
a wise choice in selecting you to guard our interests here during our
absence.

The interests now entrusted to you are of vital importance to this
Expedition. The men you will eventually have under you consist of
more than an entire third of the Ex])edition. The goods that will l)e
brought up are the currency needed for transit through the regions
lieyond the Lakes ; there will be a vast store of annnunitiou and ))rovi-
sions, which are of e(iual importance to us. The loss of these men and
goods would be certain ruin to us, and the Advance Force itself would
need to solicit relief in its turn. Therefore, weighing this matter well, I
hope you will s])are no pains to maintain order ancl discipline in your
camp, and make your defences complete, anil keej) them in such a condi-
tion, that however brave an enemy may be ho can make no impression
on tliem. For this latter ])uri)osc I would recommend you to make an
artificial ditch 6 feet wide, 3 feet deep, leading from the natural ditch,
where the spring is round the stockade. A jilatform, like that on the
southern side of the camp, constructed near the eastern as well as
the western gate, would be of advantage to the strength of the camp.
For remember, it is not the natives alone who may wish to assail you,
but the Arabs and their followers may, through some cause or other,
quarrel with you and assail your camj).

Our course from here will be due east, or by magnetic compass east by
south as near as possiltle. Certain marches that wi' may make may not
exactly lead in the direction aimed at. Nevertheless, it is the south-west
corner ot Lake Albert, near or at Kavalli, that is our destination. When
we arrive there we shall form a strong camj) in the neighbourhood,
launch our boat, and steer for Kibero, in Unyoro, to hear from Signor

1887,
June 24.

YanibuyA.

* She arrived on the 14th of August,
by ruiniing on a snag.
t Tipi)U-Tib's GOO carriers.

Had l)een detained a few days

118

JN DARKEST AFJUCA.

1887.
June 24.

Yatnbuya

Cusati, if he is there, of the condition of Emin Pasha. If tlie hitter is
alive, and in tlie neif:;hl)ourhood of the Lake, we shall communicate with
him, and our after conduct must be guided by what we shall learn of the
intentions of Emin Pasha. We may assume thai we shall not be longer
than a fortnight with him before deciding on our return towards the
cam]) along the panic road traversed by us.

We will ondcavour, by blazing trees and cutting saplings along our
road, to 1 jave sutticient traces of the route taken by us. We shall always
take, by preference, tracks leading eastward. At all cro.ssings where ])aths
intersect, we shall hoe uj) and make a hole a few inches deep across all
paths not u.sed by us, besides blazing trees when possible.

It may happen, shoidd Ti])pu-Tib have .sent the full number of adults
promised by him to me, viz., COO men (able to carry loads), and the
»S7a«/fiy has arrived .safely with the 12) men left by me at Polobo, that
you will feel yourself sufficiently competent to march the column, with
all the goods brought by the Stanfei/, and those left by me at Yambuya,
along the road ])ursued by me. In that event, which would be very
desirable, you will follow clo.sely our route, an(l hcfore many days we
sliould most assuredly meet. No doubt you will find our bomas intact
and standing, antl you should endeavour to make your marches .so that
you could utilise these as you marched. Better guides than those bonias
of our route could not be made. If you do not meet them in the course
of two days' march, jou may rest assured that you are not on our
route.

It may hap])en, also, that though Tii)]m-Tib has sent some men, he
has not .sent enough to carry the goo Is with your own force. In that
case you will, of course, use your discretion as to what goods you can
dispense with to enable you to march. For this purpose you should
study y(mr list attentively.

Lst. Anmiunition, es])ecially fixed, is most important.

2nd. Beads, brass wire, cowries and cloth, ra'ik next.

3rd. Private luggage.

4th. Powder and ca))s.

5th, European provisions.

6th. Brass rods as ii.sed on the Congo.

7th. Provisions (rice, beans, peas, millet, biscuits).

Tlierefore yon must consider, after ro))e, .sacking, tools, such as shovels
(never discard an axe or inll-hook), how many sacks of jirovisions you
can distribute among vour men to enable you to march — Mhethcr lialf
your brass rods in the boxes could not go also, and there sto]). W you
Btill cannot march, then it would be better to make two marches of six
miles twice over, if you prefer marching to staying for our arrival, than
throw too many things away.

With the Staiih'i/'s linal (le])arture from Yambuya, you .should not fail
to send a rei)ort to ]\Ir. William Mackinnon. c^o (Ji'ay, Dawes and Co.,
13, Austin Friars, Eondon, of what has liai)pened at your cam]) in my
absence, or when 1 started away eastward ; whether you have heard of
or from me at all, when you do exjjcct to hear, and what you jturpose
doing. You should also .send him a true co|)y of this ordi'r, that the
lielief Connnittee may judge for them.selves whether you have acted, or
pro|)ose to act, judiciously.

Your i)resent garri.son shall consist of 80 riHes, and from 40 to H) sujjer-
numerarics. The Stmili n is to bring you within a few weeks ."^O more
rifles and To supernumeraries, under Messrs. Troup, Ward and Bonny.

I associate Mr. J. S. Jameson with you at ju'csent. Messrs. Trouj),
Ward and Monny, will submit to your authority. In the ordinary duties
of the defence, and the conihict of the camp or of the march, there is

LETTER OF INHTIlUCTJON TO MAJOIi BABTTELOT. 119

latter is
ate witli
■n of the

10 longer
inls the

long our

11 always
;>re i)aths
cross all

)f adults
and the
obo, that
nin. with
'amlniya,
1)0 very
days we
as intact
3s so that
(se bonias
ho course
t on our

! men, he

In that

you can

lu should

IS shovels
ions you
thcr lialf
Jt' you
i(>s of six
val, than

d not fail
and Co.,

11)) in my
ln'anl of
])ur))oso
that the
acted, or

i;;()sui)or-
50 more
Bonny.

Trou]),
iiry duties
I, there is

only one chief, which is yourself; but, should any vital stoj) bo jtrojiosed
to be taken, I beg you will take the voice of Mr. Jameson also. Ancl
when Messrs. Trouj) and Ward nro hero, ]iray admit them to your
confidonco, and let them speak freely their ojiinions.

I think I have written very clearly ui)()n everything that strikes mo as
necessary. Your treatment of the natives, 1 suggest, should depend
entirely upon their conduct to you. Suffer them to return to the neigh-
bouring; villages in peace, and if you can in any manner by moderation,
sniall gifts occasionally of bra.ss rods, Ac, hasten an amicablo intercourse,
I should recommend \<.)\\ doing so. Lose no oi»])ortunity of obtaining
all kinds of information rosj)octingthe natives, the position of the various
villages in your neighbourhood, etc., Ac.

I have the lionour to be, } our obedient servant,

Henuv M. Stanley.

Ovin ma n dlixj Exjicdition .

The Major witlidrew to rend it, and then recjiiested
Mr. Jameson to make a few copies.

About two o'chtek the Major returned to me and
asked for an interview. He said lie desired to speak
witli me concerning Tippu-Tih.

" 1 shouhl like to know, sir, somethino- more regard-
inir this Aral). When 1 was delayed a few days ao() at the
Fails, you were pleased to deliver some rather energetic
orders to Lieutenant Stairs. It strikes me that you are
exceedingly suspicious of him. and if so, I really cannot
see why you should have anythino' to do with such a
man."

" Well, sir, 1 shall he pleased to discuss him with you.
or any other subject," I replied.

"Three days before your steamer was sighted coming
up river, I must confess to have been very anxious about
you. You were in command of a steamer which
belonged to other parties to whom we were pledged to
return her within a certain time. Vou had a com])any
of forty soldiers, Soudanese, as your escort. The vessel
was well fitted and in perfect order. We knew the time
you ought to have occupie(l, provided no accident
occurred, and as your instructions were positively to
depart from Stanley Falls, as soon as the cow j)romised
))y our friend Ngalyema was aboard, and il' she was not
forthco'inng within an hour you were to slip away down
river. Assuming that no accident happened and that
you obeyed orders, you should have been here on the

1S87.
.liinc 24.

Yambiiva.

Ill

120

IN DAHKESr AFlilCA.

1887. evening of the 16th, or on the 17th at the Litest.
June 24. ^j-j j^^^^ amve until 5 p.m. on tlie 22nJ.

Yambuya.

You

!■ I

h fl'i

U io

I i

" We have no telegraphs here, or pijsts. As we could
gain no intelligence of you, my anxiety about you
created doul)ts. As one day after another passed, doubts
became actual dread that something unaccountable had
occurred. Had you struck a snag, run aground, like
the Stanley and lloi/al did, as almost all steamers do,
had you been assaulted by natives in the night like
Captain Deane in the A. I. A. at Bunga, had your
Soudanese mutinied as they threatened to do at Lukungu,
had you been shot as a Soudanese regiment shot all
their white officers in the Soudan once, had you been
detained by force because Tippu-Tib had been over
persuaded to do by those young fire-eaters of Ara])s pt
the Falls, had you quarrelled with those young fellows,
the two Salims, as Stairs and Jephson did below Stanley
Pool. If not, what had occurred ? Could 1, could
anybody suggest anything else i "

" But I was obliged "

" Never mind, my dear Major, say no more about it.
Don't think of defending yourself. I am not mentioning
these things to complain of you, but replying to your
question. All is well that ends safely.

" Now as to Tippu-Tib. I have nothing to do with
Tippu-Tib, but from necessity, for your sake as well
as mine. He claims this as his territory. We
are on it as his friends. Supposing we had not made
agreement v>'itli him, how long should we be left to
prepare for the march to the Albert, or how long w^ould
you be permitted to remain here, before you had to
answer the (j[uestion why you were on his territory ?
Could I possibly leave you here, with my knowledge of
what they are capable of — alone ? With eighty ritles
against probably 3000, perhaps 5000 guns? Why,
Major, I am surprised that you who have seen Stanley
Falls, and some hundreds of the Arabs should ask
the (iuestion ?

" You have accompanied Ti;^pu-Tib and nearly a
hundred of his folhnvers fro i Zauiiibar. You have seen

CONVERSATION WITH MAJOR BARTTELOT.

121

You

i could
it you
doubts
le had
d, like
3rs do,
[it like
I your
kungu,
lot all
u been
Q over
rabs pt
fellows,
Stanley
, could

lout it.
tionius;
o your

with

well

made

eft to

would

lad to

itory '{

dge of

Y rifles

Why,

taniey

d ask

arly a
re, seen

what boyish deli^n'ht they took in their weapons, their i8b7.
Winchesters, and valuable double-barrelled I'itles. You -^""^ -'*•
know the story of Deane's fight at Stanley Falls. You ^'""^^^i'-^

I vnu
better

lictive, that his fiery nephews
lan peace. You know that

know that Tippu-Til

would like a fight

he meditated war against the Congo State, and that 1

had to pass on a relief mission through a portion of his

territory. Why how can you — grown to the rank of

Major — ask such questio

d(^ubt the wh

an(

or — asK sucn questions, or cu^uot tne wiiy
wherefore of acts which are as clear as daylight ?

"Our transport the Madura was in Zanzi})ar liarl)()ur.
The owner of this district, as he calls himself, was pre-
paring munitions against all white men on the Congo,
resenting and resentful. Would it have l)een prudent
for me to have left this man in such a state ? That he
prepared for war against the State did not materially
affect me, but that he intended doing so while I had to
pass through his territory, and in his neighbourhood on
a humane mission was everything. Therefore I was as
much interested in this affair of patching up a peace
between the Congo State and King Leopold as His
Majesty himself was, and more so indeed.

" And I suppose you will ask me next how does it
affect your personal interests ? Have you not told me
over and over again that you are burning to accom-
pany us, that you would infinitely prefer marching to
waiting here ? And is it not understood — according
to your letter of instructions — that failing Tippu-
Tib's appearance with his 600 carriers, you are to
make double-stages, or triple-stages rather than stay at
Yam buy a?

" Look at these pencilled calculations on this paper — •
nay, you can keep it, if you please. They represent
what you can do with your own men, and what you can
do assuming that Tippu-Til) really keeps to the letter of
his contract.

" Now I have grounded my instructions principally
on your impetuous answer to me at Bolobo. ' By Jove !
I will not stay a day at Yambuya after I get my column
together ! '

122

IX DABKEiST AFRICA.

ii'

! (

1887 " See here ! The letter says — ' It may happen that

June '24. ""Pippii/fij) ij.^j^ ^^^l^l soiuc iiieii, l)iit iiot seiit enough;
urn uja. ^]j(3j.(3f,)j.(3^ y,)y J^uo^y, use youi" discretion ; dispense with
No. 7, provisions, such as rice, l)eans, peas, millet,
]»iscuits. See how many sacks of provisions you can
issue out to your men — they will eat them fast enough,
I warrant you.'

' It goes (m — ' If you still cannot march, then it
would he ])etter to make marches of six miles twice over
— that is, to go one march of six miles, and then return
to fetch another lot, and march forward again. Such as
my work was on the C\)ngo, when with 68 men I made
8.S round trips on the stretch of 52 miles to take 2000
loads — 5 immense waggons and make a waggon road,
building bridges, etc' That pencilled paper in your
hand informs you how many miles you can do in this
fashion in six months.

" But this is how my pact with Tippu-Tib affects you
personally. If Tippu-Tib performs his contract faith-
fully, then on the arrival of the Stcmlei/ W\t\\ Messrs.
Ward, Troup, and Bonny, and their men, you can set
out from Yambuya within a day or two, c^nd perhaps
overtake us, or on our return from the Albe..t we shall
meet before many days.

" Now which would you personally prefer doing ?
Travelling ])ackwar(ls and forwards from camp to camp,
twice, or perhaps thrice, or have Tippu-Tib with GOO
carriers to help your 200 carriers, and march at a swing-
ing pace through the woods on our track, straight for
the Albert Nyanza ? "

"Oil, there is not a doubt of it. I should prefer
marching straight away and try and catch up with you.
Naturally."

" Well, do you begin to understand why I have been
sweet, and good, and liberal to Tippu-Tib ? Why I have
given him free passage and board for himself and
followers from Zanzibar to Stanley Falls ? Why I have
shared the kid and the lamb with him ? "

" Quite."

" Not quite yet, I am afraid. Major, otherwise you

CONVEliSATION WITH MAJOR liAllTTELOT.

12S

would not liave (loul)tetl me. There is .still a serious
reason.

''Assuming, for instance, that I had not brought
Tippu-Til) here, that the Arabs at Stanley Falls were
not wrathy with white men for Deane's aliair, or that
they would fear attacking you. They had hut to atiect
friendship with you, sell you goats and food, and then
tell your Zanziharis that theii' settlement was hut six or
seven days away — where they had plenty of rice and
fish and oil to tempt three-fourths of you]' men to desert
in a few days, while you were innocently waiting for the
Bolobo contingent ; and no sooner would the other
fellows have reached here than they would hear of the
desertion of their comrades for the Falls, and follow suit
either wholesale or by twos and threes, sixes and tens,
until you would have been left stranded completely. Is
it not the fear of this deserticjn tiiat was one of the
reasons I chose the Congo? Having Tipjju-Tib as my
friend and engaged to me, I have put a stop to the
possibility of any wholesale desertion.

" Let these reasons sink into your mind, JNTajor, my
dear fellow. Yet withal, your column may be ruined if
you are not very careful. Be tender and patient with
your people, for they are as skittish as young colts.
Still, it was with these people, or men like them, thut 1
crossed Africa^followed the course of the Congo to the
sea, and formed the Congo State."

" Well, now, say do you think Tippu-Tib will keej)
his contract, and l)ring his GOO people ? " asked the Major.

" You ought to know that as well as I myself. What
did he say to you ])efore you left him ? "

"He said he would be here in nine days, as he told
you at Bangala. Inshallah ! " replied the Majoi',
mimicking the Arab.

" If Tippu-Til) is here in nine days, it will be the
biojrest wonder I have met."

" Why ? " asked the Major, looking up half wonder-
ingly.

" Because to provide 000 carriers is a large order. He
will not be here in fifteen days or even twenty days. \\'e

June 'J.\.
Yainbuya.

124

IN DARKEST AFUK'A.

1887.
June '.'4.

Vambuya.

must be i'eas()nHl)le witli tlie man. He is not an European
— taught to he rigidly faithful to his promise. Inshallah !
was it he said ? To-morrow— Inshallah means the dav
after — or five days hence, or ten days. But what does
it matter to you if he does not eome within twenty days ?
The Stanlci/ will n(^t be here until the 10th, or perhaps
the middle of August ; that will be about seven weeks —
f(H'ty-two days — hence. He has abundance of time. What
do you want to look after GOO men in your camp doing
nothing, waiting for the steamer ? Idle men are
mischievous. No ; wait for him patiently until the
Stanle]/ comes, and if he has not appeared by that time
he will not come at all."

*' But it will be a severe job for us if he does not
appear at all, to carry 500 or GOO loads with 200
carriers, to and fro, backwards and forwards, day after

" Undoubtedly, my dear Major, it is not a light
task by any means. But which would you prefer ; stay
here, waiting for us to return from the Albert, or to
proceed little by little — gaining something each day —
and l)e absorbed in your work ? "

" Oh, my God ! I think staying here for months
w^ould be a deuced sight the worse."

" Exactly what I think, and, therefore, I made these
calculations for you. I assure you. Major, if I were
sure that you could find your way to the Albert, I would
not mind doing this work of yours myself, and appoint
you commander of the advance column, rather than
have any anxiety about you."

" But tell me, Mr. Stanley, how long do you suppose
it will be before we meet ? "

" God knows. None can inform me what lies ahead
here, or how far the forest extends inland. Whether
there are any roads, or wdiat kind of natives, cannibals, in-
corrigil)le savages, dwarfs, gorillas. I have not the least
idea. I wish I had ; and would give a handsome sum
for the knowledge even. But that paper in your hand, on
which I have calculated how long it will take me to
march to the Alljcrt Nyanza, is based on this fact. In

CONVERSATION WITH MAJOR DARTTELOT.

125

1874 and 1875 I travelled 720 miles in loa days. The
distanee frcmi here to the Albert Nyanza is altout .'i;50
geographical miles in a straight line. Well, in 1874-75,
I travelled 330 oeouTapliical miles — Jiauamovo to
Vinyata, in Ituru, in 64 days ; from Lake Uliim])a to
Ujiji, 330 miles, in 54 days. These were, of course,
open countries, with tolerably fair roads, whereas this
is absolutely unknown. Is it all a forest i — then it will
be an awful work. How far does the forest reach
inland ? A hundred — two hundred — three hundred
miles ? There is no answer. Let us assume we can
do the journey to the Albert in three months ; that 1
am detained a fortnight, and that I am back in
three months afterwards. Well, I shall meet vou comino'
toward me, if Tippu-Til> is n(jt with you, the latter
part of October or Novem])er. It is all down on that
paper.

" But it is immaterial. The thing has to ])e done.
We will go ahead, we will blaze the trees, and mark our
track through the forest for you. We will avail oui'sclves
of every advantage — any path easterly will suit me
until I bore through and throuoh it, and come out on
the plains or pastureland. And where we go, you can
go. If we can't go on, you will hear from us somehow.
Are you now satisfied ? "

" Perfectly," he replied. " I have it all here," touching
his forehead — " and this paper and letter will be my
reminders. But there is one thing I should like to
speak about, it refers to something you said to me in
London."

" Ah, indeed. What was said that was in any way
peculiar ? " I asked.

" Well " — here there was a little hesitation — " do you
remember when Mr. — — , of the India Office, intro-
duced me to you ? The words you used sounded
strangely, as though someone had been warning you
against me."

" My dear Barttelot, take my word for it, I don't
remember to have heard the name of Barttelot before I
heard your name. But you interest me. What could

June 'J4.
Yambuya.

Ifr

i '

1 :

12t; /A' hMtKF.sr Al'lilrA.

1H87.

I liave possiltly said tliut was any way [x'culiar to cling

June ■-'4.

Yaiiibuvii.

to your nienioiy like this ^ 1 icnicinhcr tlic cin-iini-
staiico well :* "

!i!

"The fact is," he said, "you said sonicthiiiii; al»out
' foi'liearance.' which reniiiided me that I iiad heard that
word lietore, when (Jeneral — — [)itched into me ahout
punishin<;' a Somali mutineer in tlie (U'sert durin*;- the
tSouihin campait^n. I was all alone with the Somalis
when they turned on me, and I spran^' upon the rinuj-
leader at last when there was no other wav of reducingf
them to order and pistolled him, and at once the Somalis
hecame quiet as laml)s. 1 thouiiht that ( Jeneral - — ,
who is not remarkahle for goodwill to me, had menti<»ned
the affair to you.'

" Indeed, 1 never heard the story before, and I do

not understand how (ieneral could have warned

me, considering he could not have known you were
going to apply for membership. It was your own face
which inspired the word forbearance. Your friend
introduced vou to me as a distino-uished officer full of
pluck and courage ; upon which I said that those
qualities were common characteristics of British officers,
but I would prefer to hear of another quality which
would be of e<pial value for a peculiar service in Africa
— and that was forbearance. You will excuse me now,
I hope, for saying that I read on your face immense
determination and something like pugnacity. Now, a
pugnacious fellow, though very useful at times, you
know, is not quite so useful for an expedition like this —
wdiich is to work in an atmosphere of irritability — as a
man who knows not only how and when to fight, but
also how to forbear. Why, a thousand causes provoke
irritation and friction here between himself and fellow-
officers, his own followers and natives, and frequently
between himself and his own person. Here is bad food
always, often none at all, a miserable diet at the best, no
stimulant, incessant toil and worry, intense discomfort,
relaxed muscles, weariness amounting to fainting, and,
to cap all, dreadful racking fevers, urging one to curse
the day he ever thought of Africa. A pugnacious man

CONVERSATIOS WITH MA.loll ll.\ llTTh'La'r.

12;

is iiatiirally ill-^enl[)C'l'e(l, and unli'ss lie ri'strains his
instiin'ts, and can conti'ol iiis iiupnlscs, he is in hot
water every minute of his existence, and will Hnd cross
ruhs with every throb of his heart. To he able to
forbear, to kee[) down rigorously all bitter feelini>s. to
let the thoughts of his duty, his position, {)lead against
the in(bd^ence of his passions. Ah, that (piality, while
it does not diminish coura<i;e, prevents the waste of
natural force ; but L (k)n't wish to preach to you, you
know what 1 mean.

" And now to close — one word more about Ti[)})U-Ti}).
Do you see that JMaxim out there with its ••apino-
muzzle. [ regard Ti[)[)u-Til) wmiewhat as 1 do that.
It is an excellent weapon for defence. A stream of
bullets can be poured out of it, but it may get jammed,
and its mechanism bec(mie deranoed from rust or want
of ii'ood oil. In that event we relv on our ileminu-
tons, iw I Winchester Repeaters, If Tip[)U-Tib is dis-
posed to iielp us — he will be a most valuable auxiliary
— failure bec(jmcs impossi))le, we shall complete our work
admirably. If he is not disposed, then we must do what
we can with our own men, and goodwill covers a multi-
tude of errors.

" Do you remember that in 1870 Tippu-Tib broke his
contract with me, and returned to Nyangwe, leaving me
ahme. Well, with about I ;}0 of my own men, I drove my
way down the C^ongo despite his sneer. You said you
met Dr. Lenz, the Austrian traveller, at Lamu, after
having failed to reach Emin Pasha. Why did he fail ?
He relied on Tippu-Til) alone ; he had no private reserve
of force to fall back upon. You have over 200 carriers
and 50 soldiers, besides servants and etficient com{)anions.
Un the Congo work I was promised a contingent of
natives to assist me. ( )nly a few came, and those
deserted ; but I had a faitliful reserve of sixty-eight men
— they were the fellows who made the Congo State.
You remember my letter to the Times; where 1 said,
' We do not want Tippu-Tib to assist us in finding Emin
Pasha. We want him to carrv ammunition, and on his
return to bring away ivory to help pay the expenses of

1887.
.lull.' •J4.

Viiiubuya.

128

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
June 24.

Yambuva.

1 .

i ;
I

I 1

f i

the Mission.' Then, as a hist proof of how I regard
Tippu-Tii), (h) not forget that written order to Lieu-
tenant Stairs a few days ago, to rake his settlement
with the machine gun upon the least sign of treachery.
You have read that letter. You ought to know that the
gage of battle is not thrown in the ftice of a trusted
friend.

" Now, Major, my dear fellow, don't l)e silly. I know
you feel sore because you are iiot to go with us in the
advance. You think you will lose some kudos. Not a
bit of it. Ever since King David, those who remain
witli the stuff, and those who go to the war, receive the
same hon^'urs. Besides, I don't like the word ' kudos.'
The kudo.- impulse is like the pop of a ginger-l)eer
bottle, good for a V.C. or an Albert medal, but it
effervesces in a month of Africa. It is a damp squib,
Major. Think rather of Tennyson's lines : —

" Not once or twice in our fair island story
Has tlie path of duty been the way to glory."

There, shake hands upon this. Major. For us the word
is ' Right Onward ' ; for you ' Patience and Forbearance.'
I want mv tea. I am div^ with talking."

On the 25th the stockade was c(mipleted all round
the camp, the ditch was approaching completion. Bj^'t-
telot superintended the works on one side ; Jephson, in
shirt-sleeves, looked over another. Nelson was dis-
tributing the European provisions — share and share
alike ; our Doctor, cheery, smiling, anxious as though ho
were at a surgical operation, was constructing a gate,
and performed the carpenter's operation in such a manner
that I wrote in my diary that evening, " He is certainly
one of the l)est fellows alive." Jameson was busy copy-
ing the letter of instructions. Stairs was in bed with
a severe bilious fever.

A Soudanese soldier, as innocent as a lamb cropping
sweet grass before a fox's covert, trespassed for the sake
of loot near a native village, and was speared through
the abdomen. It is the second fatal case resulting from
lo(»ting. It will not be our last. We place a Soudanese

MEMORANDUM FOR OFFICERS OF ADVANCE COLUMN. 129

tound
Bi> • t-
)ii, in
dis-
sliare
^h he
gate,
laiiner
bainly
[copy-
witli

Ippmg
sake

j'ough
from

lanese

on guard ; liis friend comes along, exchanges a word or
two with him, and passes on, \\\i\\ the completest un-
consciousness of danger that can be imagined. If not
slain outright, he returns with a great gash in his
body and a look of death in his face. The Zanzi])ari is
set to labour at cutting wood or collecting manioc ; he
presently drops his task utters an excuse for with-

1887.
June -5.

Yiimbuya.

drawing for a moment-

-a thought glances across

his
away.

vacuous mind, and under the impulse he haste
to be reported by-and-by as missing.

On the 26th I drew out a memorandum for the officers
of the Advance Column, of which the following is a
copy :—

We propose to commence our march the day after to-morrow, the 28th
of June, 1887.

The distance we liave to traverse is about 330 geop-apliical miles in an
air line — or about 650 miles English, provided we do not find a path more
than ordinarily winding.

If we make an average of ten miles per day we ought to be able to
reach the Albert within two months.

In 1871 my Expedition after Livingstone performed 360 Entilish miles
in 54 days = about 65 miles })er day.

In 1874 my Expedition across Africa, performed 300 English miles in
64 days, viz., from Baganioyo to Viuyata = 55 miles per day.

In 1874-75 the same Expedition reached Lake Victoria from Baganioyo,
720 miles distance in 103 days = 7 miles per day.

In 1876 the same Expedition traversed 3G0 miles, the distance from
Lake IJhiniba to Ujiji in 59 days = 6y\y miles per day.

Thci'efore if we travel the distance to Kavalli, say 5.50 miles at an
average of G miles i)er day, we should reach Lake Albert about tlu last
day of September.

A conception of the character of more than half of the country to bo
traversed may be had by glancing at our surroundings. It will bo a
bush and forested country with a native ])ath more or less crooked con-
necting the various settlements of the tribes dwelling in it.

The track now and then will bo intersected by others connecting the
tribes north of our route and those south of it.

The natives will be armed with shields, s])ears and knives, or with liows
and arrows.

As our pur]x)se is to march on swiftly through the country, we take the
natives considerably by surprise. Tliey cannot confederate or meet us in
any force, l)ecauso they will have no time. Whatever liostiliries we may
meet will be the outcome of impulse, and that naturally an angry one.
OfHcers must therefore W. prom])t to resist these imjmlsive attacks, and
should at all times now see that their Winchester magazines are loaded,
and their bearers close to them. Side arms should not be dispensed with
on any account.

Th(! order of the march will be as follows :

At dawn the renei/lf will sound as usnal.

First by the Soudanese trumpeter attached to No. 1 Company.

VOL. L J

1887.
June 26.

Yam buy a.

:!■:,

til

130

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Second by the bugle attached to Captain Stairs'i;' Company, No. 2 —
Captain .Stairs.

Tliird by the trumpeter attached, to the No. 3 Company — Captain
Nelson.

Fourth by the drummer attached to Captain Jephson'sN" 4 Company.
Officers will feed early on coffee and biscuit, and see tnat their men
are also strent;thening themselves for the journey.

At G A.M. the march of the day will begin, led by a band of ;";0 pioneers
armed with rifles, bill-hooks and. axes, forming the advance guard under
myself.

The main body will then follow after 15 niiiuxtes, led by an officer
whose turn it is to be at the head of it, whose duty will be specially to
see that he follows the route indicated by " blazing " or otherwise.

This column will consist of all bearers, and all men sick or well who
are not detailed for rear guard. The major part of three companies will
form the column. Close to the rear of it, keeping well up, will be the
officer who.se turn it is to maintain order in rear of the main body.

The rear guard will consist of 80 men under an officer selected for the
day to protect the column from attacks in the rear. These men will not
be loaded with anything beyond their private kits. No member of the
Exi)edition must be passed by the rear guard. All stragglers mufct be
driven on at all costs, because the person left behind is irretrievably lost
At the head of the main body will be the head-quarter tents and private
luggage, immediately succeeding the offlcei' in connnan.!. This officer
will also have to be on the alert for signals by trumpets, to connnunicate
them to tliose in the rear, or be ready to receive signals from the front
and jmss the word l)ehind.

The advance guard will " blaze " the path followed, cut down obstruct-
ing creepers, and, on arrival at camp, set to at once for building the boniii
or bushfence. As fast as each company arrives assistance must be given
tor this important work of defence. No camj) is to be considered comi)lete

until it is fenced uround by i)ush
or trees. Those unemployed in
this duty will erect tents.

The lx)ma must be round with
two gates well masked by at
least five yards of bush.

The diameter of the camp
should be about 250 feet. Tents
and baggage piled in the centre,
the huts will range around an
inner circle of about 200 feet in
diameter.

The above relates only to the
circumstances attending the
transit of a caravan through a
dangerous country, unattended
by more than the troubles natu-
rally arising from the impulsive
attacks of savages.
Ihe pulse of the country which we shall traverse will be felt by the
advance guard, of course. If the obstacles in the front are sericms, and
threaten to be something more than a mere imjnilse, or temporary,
messages will be sent to the main body announcing their character.

Wherever ])racticable we shall camj) in villages, if the natives have
deserted them, for the sake of obtaining food, but such villages mnst 1)0
rendered defensive at once. Officers should rememlier that it is in the:

DIAGUAM OF OUR FOREST CAMPS.

MEMORANDUM FOR OFFICERS OF ADVANCE COLUMN. 131

nature of their black soldiers, Soudanese, Somalis or Zanzilxiris, to bo
thougiitless and inditt'erent, to scatter tliemsclves about in tlie most liee(i-
less ' manner. Tliey must take my assurance that more lives are lost in
this mamier than by open warfare. Therefore their men's lives I consider
are in the liands of their otiicers, and the officer who will not relax his
energy and rigid enforcement of orders until everything is made snug and
tight for the night, will be the most valuable assistant in this Expedition
for me. Arriving at the intended halting i)lace for the night, if a village,
the officer should first cast his eyes al)out for lodgment of his ])co))le ;
select such as will be uniform with those already occupied by the preceding
company, and those to be occupied by the succeeding company or com-
l)anies ; then turn to and destroy all those lying without the occi;pied
circle, or use their timbers, all material in the vicinity to defend his
quarters from night attack by fire or spear. A cue will be given when
and how to do things by the conduct of t'le advance guaril, but the
officer must not fail to ascertain what this cue is, nor wait to be told
every petty detail. He nmst consider himself as tiie Father of his
Company, and act always as a wise leader should act.

At all such village camps, Lieutenant Stairs will see to the nightly
guards being placed at the more accessible points, every company serving
cut details as may be necessary.

During the first week we will not attempt any very long marches, that
the ))eople and onrselvci may be 1)roken in gently, but after a fourth of
the distance has been made the marches will sensibly lengthen, and I
anticipate that, before the half of the journey has been performed, we shall
be capable of making wonderful progress.

Further memoranda will be furnished when necessary.

Yambuya.

June 2Gtl<, 1887.

(Signed) Henry M. Stanley.

Coinmandin;/ Expedition.

1R«7.
.(iuk; 2(j.

Vainljuya.

camp
Tents

centre,
imd an

feet in

to the
ig the
(High a
ttended
3S natu-
ipulsive

by the
)us, and
iporary,
!r.

es have
must 1)0
s in the

I close this chapter with a quotation from my diaiy
made on the hist evening.

" Yainhui/a, June 27th. — Our men claimed a holiday-
to-day because it had been deferred until the steamers
were despatched, and the camp was fortified for the
prote(-tion of the garrison. Numbers of things had also
to l)e done. C(mij)anies luul to be re-organized, since
several had sickened since leaving Bolobo, the weak had
to be picked out, and the four c^ompanies selected for
the march ought to be in as perfect condition as possible.
Our pioneer's tools rerp'-'cd numbering. Out of one
hundred bill-hooks there were only twenty-six, out of
one hundred axes there were left twenty-two, out of one
liundred hoes there were only sixty-one, out of oiie
lumdi'ed shovels there were but sixty-seven. All the rest
had l)een stolen, and sold to the nati^'"s or thrown away.
It is a trying work to look after such reckless people.

132

IN DAIiKENT AFRICA.

h , '

\^li\

1887. ' Three hundred and eighty-nine souls will march to-

June 27. jhq^i-qw — QqJ permitting — into the al)solutely unknown.

am uya. pj.Qj^ ^ native I have heard of names of tril)es, or

sections of tribes, but of their strength or dispositi(3n I

know nothing.

Yesterday we made l)lood-brotherhood with one of tlie
chiefs of Yambuya. As the Major was Commandant of
the post, he went bravely through the ceremony, which
was particularly disgusting. On th.^ flowing blood a
pinch of dirty salt was placed, and rtiis had to be licked.
The chief performed his part as though he loved it. The
Mtijor looked up and saw the cynical faces of his friends
and was mortified.

" ' To ensure peace ! '

" ' Even so,' replied the Major, and sacrificed his taste.

" Tiiese foi'est natives have not been able to win any
great regard from me yet. They are cowardly, and at
the same time vicious. They lie oftener than any open
country folk. I do not credit any statement or profes-
sion made by them. At the same time I hope that
after better acquaintance there will be a change. This
chief received a liberal gift from the hand of the J\Iajor,
and in return he received a fortnight-old chick and a
feathered bonnet of plaited cane. The oft-promised
goat and ten fowls had not yet been seen. And the
blood of a Soudanese soldier has been spilled, and we
have not avenged it. We are either so poor in spirit, or
so indifferent to the loss of a man, that a stalwart soldier,
worth twenty of these natives, can be slain unavenged.
Not only that, but we entreat them to come often and
visit us, for they have fish and goats, fowls, eggs, and
what not to sell of which we would be buyers. This
perhaps will go on for some weeks more.

" It is raining to-night, and the morrow's march will
be an uncomfortable one. Stairs is so sick that he
cannot move, and yet he is anxious to accompany us.
It is rather rash to undertake carrying a man in his
condition, though, if death is the issue, it comes as easy
in the jungle as in the camp. Dr. Parke has made me
exceedingly uncomfortable by saying that it is enteric

DIVISION OF THE RELIEF EXPEDITION AT YAMIiUYA. 133

.If

fever. I lean to bilious fever. We shall put him in a i887.
hammock and trust for a favourable issue." "^"""^ ^^'

The Advance F'orce will consist of : —

Yambuya.

No. 1 company

. 118 men

and boys

99 rifles

. 'JO

85 „

1) '^ »

. 90

87 „

)i ^ »»

. 90

))

86 „

Officers— Self

„ Stairs

„ Nelson

„ Jeplison

„ Parke

European servant

389

357 „

The garrison of Yambuya consists of : —

Soudanese .

41 men

44 rifles

Zanzibaris .

71 „

38 „

Barttelof s servants

. 3 „

Jameson's „

. '^ J,

Sowahis

. 5 .,

Sick men

• '^ J,

]}arttelot personal!.

■ 1 JJ

3 „

Jameson „

. 1 J,

2 JJ

129

11 will
jit he
liy us.
In his

easy
le me
kit eric

(*ontinoeiit at Bolobo to be joined to garrison of
Yaml)uya : —

Zanzibaris
John Hose Trouj^ .
Herbert Ward
William Bonny

Advance force .
Yambu' a pirrison
Bolobo, Kinsliassa, ttc.

128 men and boys

52 rifles

1
1
1

• •

131 men

52 ,.

. 389

men

357 rifles

. 129
. 131

' 1

52 ..

Loss of men from Zanzibar to)
Yambuya . . . . j

('.40

706

490

r>o!i

134

1837.
Juno 28.

Yambuya.

TN DANKEST AFRTrA.

CHAPTER VIL

TO P A N a A FALL .S„

An African road — Our mode of travelling tlirongli the forests — Fi'rewell
to .Jameson and the Major — 160 days in tlie forest — The Kapids of
Yambnya — Attacked by natives of Yankonde — Rest at the villaso
of Haliunpi— JJescrijition of our march - The poisoned Skewers — ■
Ca])ture of six Jiahali — Dr. Parke and the l>ees — A tempest in the
forest — Mr. Jc])hson puts the steel boat together— The village of
Bukanda — Itefuse heaps of the villages — -Tlie Aruwimi river scenery
— Villagjs of the JJakuti and the Pakoka — The Papids of (J-weng-
were — The boy Pakula — Our " chop and coffee" — The islands near
Pandangi— The Paburu dwarfs— The unknown course of the river
—The tSoiualis— Partering at jMariri and Mu])e — The Aruwimi at
Mujic — The Babe manners, customs, and dress — Jephson's two
adventures— Was]) Papids — The chief of the Bwamburi — Our camp
at My-yui — Canoe accident — An abandoned village — Arrival at
Panga Falls— Description of the Falls.

An Afric'in road generally is a foot- track tramped ])y
travel to exceeding siiKJotliness and liardnesoas of asphalt
when the season is dry. It is only twelve inches wide
from the ha])it of the natives to travel in single file one
after another. When such a track is old it resembles a
winding and shallow gutter, the centre has been trodden
oftener than the sides — rain-water has rushed along and
scoured it out somewhat — the sides of the path have been
raised by hunms and dust, the feet of many passengers
have brushed twigs and stones and pressed the dust aside.
A straight patli would be shorter than the usual (me
formed by native travel by a third in every mile on an
average. This is something like what we hoped to meet
in defiling out of the gato of the intrenched camp at
Yambuya, because during four preceding Expeditions into
Africa we had never failed to follow suc^: a track for
hundreds of miler,. Yambuya consisted of a series of
villages. Their inhabitants nmst have neighbours to the

AN AFRICAN ROAD.

185

Eastward as well as to the Southward or "Westward. Why
not ?

We marched out of the f^ate, company after ccmipany
in single file. Each with its flag, its trumpeter or
drummer, each with its detail of supernumeraries, with
fifty picked men as advance guard to handle the hillhook
and axe, to cut saplings, " blaze," or peel a portion of the
bark of a tree a hand's-breadth, to sever the leaves and
slash at the rattan, to remove all obtrusive l)ranches
that might interfere with the free passage of the hun-

1S87.
June 28.

Yanibuya

been
tngers
laside.
h (me
Ion an

meet
lup at
Is into

I'k for
lies of
Ito the

MARCHING THROUGH THE FOREST.

dreds of loaded portei's, to cut trees to lay across streams
for their passage, to form zeribas o" bom as of l)ush and
branch around the hutted camp at the end of tlie day's
travel. The advance guard are to find a path, or, if none
can l)e found, to choose the thinnest portions of the
jungle and tunnel through without delay, for it is most
fatiguing to stand in a heated atmosphere with a weighty
load on the head. If no thinner jungle can be found,
then through anything, however impenetrable it may
appear ; they must be brisk — " chap-chap " — as we say, or
an ominous murmur will rise from the impatient carriers

\
I

1887.
June 28.

Yambuyn.

186

IN DARKEST AFlilCA.

ln'hiiid. They must l)e clever and intelligent in wood-
craft ; a oreenliorn, or as we call him " goee-goee," must
drop his hill-hook, and take the hale or box. Three
hundred wearv fellows are not to be trilled with, thev
must be brave also — quick to repel assault— arrows are
poisonous, spears are deadly — their eyes must be quick
to search the gloom and shade, with sense alert to recogni-
tion, and ready to act on the moment. Dawdlers and
goee-goees are unljearable ; they must be yoang, lithe,
springy — my 300 l)ehind me have no rcgai'd for the
ancient or the < )rpulent — they would be smothered with
chaff and suffocated witli l)anter. Scores of voices would
cry out, " Wherein lies this fellow's merit ? Is it all in
his stomach ? Nay, it is in his wo(;den back — tut — his
liead is too big for a scout. He has clearly been used to
hoeing. What does the field hand want on the
Continent ? You may see he is only a Banian slave !
Nay, he is only a Consul's freed man I Bosh ! he is a
mission boy." Tlieir bitter tongues pierce like swords
through the armour of stupidity, and the bill-hooks with
trenchant edges are wielded most manfully, and the
bright keen axes flasli and sever the saplings, or slice a
broad strip of bark from a tree, and the bush is pierced,
and the jungle gapes open, and fast on their heels con-
tinuously close presses the mile-long caravan.

This is to be the order, and this the method of the
march, and I have stood observing the files pass by until
the last of the rear guard is out of the camp, and the
j\Iajor and Jameson and the garrison next crowd out to
exchanoe the farewell.

" Now, Major, my dear fellow, we are in for it. Neck
or nothing ! Remember your promise and we shall meet
before many months."

" I vow to goodness. I shall be after you sharp. Let
me once get those fellows from Bolobo and nothing shall
stop me."

" Well, then, God bless you — keep a stout heart — and
Jameson— old man — the same to you."

Captain Nelson, who heard all this, stepped up in his
turn to take a parting grasp, and I strode on to the

■ I

ORDER WHILE MARCIIING THROUGH THE FOREST. 137

front, while the Captain phieed himself at the head of the i8>*7.

1 ^ ^ June 29.

rear guard.

The column had halted at tlie end of the villages or '"" "'**■
rather the road that Nelson the other day had com-
menced.

" Which is the way, guide ( " I asked to probably
the proudest soul in the column — for it is a most
exalted position to be at the head of the line. He was
in a (ireekish costume with a Greekish helmet a la
Achilles.

THE KIliAXGOZI, OU FOREMOST MAX.

Let

1 shall

-and

n his
the

" This, running towards tlie sunrise," he replied.

" How many hours to the next village ? "

" God alone knows," he answered.

" Know ye not one village or country beyond here ?"

" Not one ; how should I ? " he asked.

This amounted to what the wisest of us knew.

" Well, then, set on in the name of God. and (i!od be
ever with us. Cling t(j any trac'k that leads by the river
until we find a road."

" Bismillah 1" echoed the pioneers, the Nubian trumpets

138

IX PAnKEST AFRICA.

9> ■■

Yambuya.

1887. l)lew the sigiiul of " move on," uiid shortly the head of
June 28. tlie cohiiiiu disappeared iiito the thiek Imsli beyond the
utmost Uoiuids of the elearin<;s of Yamlmya.

This was on the '2St\i day of June, and until the 5th
of ])e('eni])er, for 1(10 days, we marched through the
forest, ))ush and jungle, without ever having seen a l»it
of oreensward of the size of a eottaoe chamher floor.
Nothing but miles and miles, endless miles of forest, in
various stages of growth and various degrees of altitude,
according to the ages of the trees, with varying thickness
of undergrowth according to the character of the trees
which afforded thicker or slighter shade. It is to the
description of tlie march through this forest and to its
strange incidents I propose to confine myself for the next
few^ chapters, as it is an absolutely unknown region
opened to the gaze and knowledge of civilized man for
the first time since the waters disappeared and were
ga hered into the seas, and the earth became dry land.
Beseeching the reader's patience, I promise to be as little
tedious as possible, though there is no other manuscript
or missal, printed l)()ok or pamphlet, this spring of the
year of our Lord 1890, that contains any account of this
reuion of horrors other than this book of mine.

With the temperature of 86° in the shade we travelled
along a path very infrequently employed, which wound
under dark depths of l)usli. It was a slow process,
interrupted every few minutes by the tangle. The
bill-hooks and axes, plied by fifty men, were constantly
in requisition ; the creepers were slashed remorselessly,
lengths of track one hundred yards or so were as fair
as similar extents were difficult.

At noon we looked round the elbow of the Aruwimi,
which is in view of Yambuya, and saw above, about
four miles, another rapid with its glancing waters as it
waved in rollers in the sunshine ; the rapids of Yambuya
were a little below us. Beneath the upper rapids quite
a fleet of canoes hovered al)out it. There was much
movement and stir, owdng, of course, to the alarm that
the Y^ambuyas had communicated to their neighbours.
At 4 P.M. we observed that the point we had gazed at

ATTACKED BY NATIVES OF YANKONhE.

139

^ellecl
ound
locess,
The
pntly
essly,
s fair

abreast of the rapids consisted of islands. These were 1887.
now beinii; crowded with the women and children of •'""''-f.-
Yankonde, whom as yet we had not seen. Aoout a
hundred canoes formed in the stream crowded with
native warriors, and followed the movements of the
column as it appeared and disappeared in the light and
into the shadows, jeering, mocking, and teasing.

The head of the column arrived at the foot of a broad
cleared road, twenty feet wide and three hundred yards
long, and at the further end pi'ol)al)ly three hundred
nati^•es of the town of Yankonde stood oesticulatinii^,
shouting, with drawn bows in their hands. \\\ all my
experience of Africa 1 had seen nothing of this kind.
The pioneers halted, reflecting, and remarking somewhat
after this manner : " What does this moan ? The
pagans have carved a l)road highway out of the bush
to their town for us, and yet there they are at the other
end, ready for a fight ! It is a trap, lads, of some Liiid,
so look sharp."

With the bush they had cut they had l)anked and
blocked all passage to the forest on either side of the
road for some distance. But, with fifty pairs of sharp
eyes searching around above and below, we were not
long in finding that this apparent highway through the
bush bristled with skewers six inches long sharpened at
both ends, which were driven into the ground lialf their
length, and slightly covered with green leaves so care-
lessly thrown over them that w^e had thought at first
these strewn leaves were simply the eftect of clearing bush.

Forming two lines of twelve men across the road, the
first line was ordered to pick out the skewers, the
second line was ordered to cover the workers with their
weapons, and at the first arrow shower to fire. A
dozen scouts were sent on either flank of the road
to make their way into the village through the woods.
AVe had scarcely advanced twenty yards along the
cleared way before volumes of smoke broke out of the
town, and a little cloud of arrows came towards us, but
falling short. A volley was returned, the skewers
were fast being picked out, and an advance was steadily

IN DAIiKKSr AFUWA.

Hill

1887. mack' until we rcacluMl tlie villa<»e at the same time

Junu 28. ^jij^j. j-jj^^ scouts I'u.slied out of tlie undci'Wood, and as

°"^'' all the {)ion('(M's were i)us1umI forward the tirin^' was

pretty lively, under cover of which the cai'avan pressed

throu<;h the burnin*.^' town to a village at its eastern

extremity, a.s yet untiicd.

Along the river the tiring was more deadly. The
very noise was sufficient to frighten a foe so prone as
savages to rely on the teri'ors of sound, ])ut unfortu-
nately the noise was as hurtful as it was alarming.
Very many, I fear, paid the penalty of the foolish
challenge. The Mame is undouhtedlv due to the
Yamhuvas, who must have invented fables of the
most astounding character to cause their neighbours
to attempt stopping a force of nearly four hunch-ed
rifles.

It was nearly 9 r.M. before the rear-guard entered
camp. Throughout the night the usual tactics were
resorted to by the savages to create alarm and distui'b-
ance, such as vertically dropping assegais and arrows
heavily tip})ed with poiscm, with sudden cries, whoops,
howls, menaces, sinndtaneous blasts of horn-l)]owing
from different (juarters, as though a general attack was
bout to be ma<le. Strangers unac([uainted with the
craftiness of these forest satyrs might l)e pardoned for
imagining that daylight only was required for our com-
plete extermination. Some of these tactics I knew
l)efore in younger (hiys, ])ut there was still something
to l)e gleaned from the craft of these pure pagans.
The camp was surrounded l)y sentries, and the only
orders given were to keep strict silence and sharpen
their eyesight.

In the morning a narrow escape was reported. A
man liad wakened to find a spear buried in the earth,
penetrating his sleeping cloth and mat on each side
of him, slightly pinning him to his l)edding. Two were
slightly wounded with arrows.

We wandered al)out for ten minutes or so looking
for a track next morning, and at last discovered one
leading through a vast square mileage of manioc fields,

DEScnirnoN of ont MAJicn from vaxkom)/:. 141

:liiiig
loans,
only
|irpen

larth.
side
hvere

iking

one

Lekls,

an<I at the little village of iiahunga, four miles S. K. of
Yankonde, we gladly rested, our object Ix'iiig not to
rush at first sotting out after a long I'iver voyage, lait
to rt"custoni the [)eo|)le little l»y little to the long
j(airney before them

On the MOth we lit on a path which connected a
series of fourteen villages, each se[)arate and in line,
surrounded hy their res[)eetive fields, luxuriant with
crops of manioc, or, as some call it, the cassava. We
did not fail to observe, however, that some disaster
had occurred many months before, judging froni the
traces. The villages we })assed through wen; m(»stly
newly built, in the sharp, conical — candle-extinguisher
— or rather four-angled spiry ty[)e ; burnt poles, ruins
of the former villages, marked the sites of foi-mer
dwelling's. Here and there were blazings on trees,
and then I knew that Arabs and Manyuema nuist have
visited here — probably Tipjai-Tib's brother.

The following day our march was thi'ough a similar
series of villages, twelve in number, with a connnon,
well-trodden track running from one to anothe)'. In
this distance sections of the [)rimeval forest separated
each village ; along the track were pitfalls forsonie kind
of large forest game, or bow-traps fixed for small animals,
such as rabbits, scpiirrels, rats, small monkeys. In tlie
neighbourhood of each village the skewers were plentiful
in the o-round, l>ut as vet no hurt had l>een received
from them.

Another serious inconvenience of forest travel was
experienced on this day. Every fifty yards or so a great
tree, its diameter breast high, lay prostrate across the
path over which the donkeys had to be assisted with a
frequeney that was becoming decidedly annoying.
Between twenty and fifty of these had to be climbed
over by hundreds of men, not all of whcmi were e(paally
expert at this novel travelling, and these obstructions by
the delays thus occasioned began to be ctmiplained of as
very serious impediments. The main approaches to the
many villages were studded with these poisoned skewers,
winch made every one except the booted whites tread

18«7.
Juno '28.

iinkonJe.

Ifll

ff.'

h'li

1887.
July 1.

Yankoncle.

142

7.V DAliKE^ST AFlilCA.

most <>iiigerly. Nor could the Europeans be altogether
inditiereut, for, slightly leaning, the skewer was (|uite
capable of piercing the thickest boot-leather and burying
the splinters of its head deej) in the foot — an agony of
so dreadful a nature that was worth the trouble of
ffuardinfj; against.

At 3 P.M. we camped near some pools overhung by
water lilies far removed from a village, having had three
wounded durin<»; the traverse throuoh the settlements.

This morning, about three hours before dawn, the camp
was wakened by howls, and loud and continued horn-
blowing. These were shortly after hushed, and the
voices of two men were heard so clear and distinct that
many like myself attempted to pierce the intense dark-
ness in the vain etibrt to see these midnioht orators.

The first Speaker said, " Hey, strangers, where are you

going?

The Parasite echoed, " Yviiere are you going? "

Speaker. This country has no welcome for you.

Paraf<ite. No welcome for you.

Speaker. All men will be agiinst you.

Parasite. Against you.

Speaker. And you will be surely .slain.

Parasite. Surely slain.

Speaker. Ah-ah-ah-ah-ah-aah.

Parasite. Ah-ah-aaah.

Speaker. Uoli-ooh-o(^h-ooli-ooooh.

Parasite. ( )oli-ooh-oo! »oooli.

Tliis parasite was such a palpal )le parasite, with such
a sense of humour — that it raised such a chorus of
laughter so sudden, startling, and abrupt, that scared
speaker and parasite away in precipitate haste.

At dawn of the 2nd, feeling somewhat uneasy at the
fact that the track which ))rouglit us to these pools was
not made by man but by elephants, and feelnig certain
that the people had made no provision of f()t)d ])eyond
the day, I sent 200 men back to the villages to procure
eacli a load of manioc. By the manner these men per-
formed this duty, the reflection came uito my mind that
they had little or no reasoning faculties, and that not a

•

iftf

DR. PARKE AXD THE DEES.

148

"OU

.such
lus of
cared

t the
f^ was
'I'taiii
.yoiul
Dcure
per-
that
not a

half of the 389 people then in the camp ^v'oukl emerge
out of Africa. They were now brimful of life and
vitality — their rifles were perfect, their accoutrements
w^ere new, and each possessed 10 rounds of cartridges.
With a little care fcjr their own selves and a small por-
tion of prudence, there was no reason why they should
not nearly all emerge safe and sound, but they wei'e so
crude, stolid, unreasoning, that orders and instructions
were unheeded, except when under actual supervision,
and, to supervise them eiiectually, I should require 100
Eno'lish officers of similar intellioence and devotion to
the four then wdth me. In the meantime they will lose
their lives for trifles wdiich a little sense would avoid,
and until some frightful calamity overtakes them I shall
never l)e able thoroughly to impress on their minds that
to l(>se life foolishly is a crime.

A party of scouts were also sent ahead along the track
to observe its general direction, and, about the same time
that the foragers returned, the scouts returned, having
captured six natives in the forest. They belonged to a
tribe called the Babali, and were of a light chocolate in
hue, and were found forming traps for game.

As we endeavoured to draw from them some informa-
tion respecting the country to which the track led, they
said, " We have but one heart. Don't you have two,"
which meant. Do not speak so fairly to us if you mean
any harm to us, and like all natives they asserted
strongly that they did not eat human meat, but that the
custom was practised ])y the Babanda, Babali, Babukwa
tribes, occupying the bank of the Aruwimi al)ove Yan-
konde.

Soon after this interview with the natives, Dr. Parke,
observing the l)ees whicli fluttered alxnit, had mentioned
to one of his brother officers that he did not think they
stung at all, upon which at the same moment a vicious
bee settling in his neck drove its sting into it to [)unish
him for his scornful libel. He then came to me and
reported the fact as a good joke, whereupon a second bee
attacked and wounded him almost in the same spot,
<lra\ving from him an exclamation of pain. " By Jove !

1KH7.
July 2.

V'aukucda

1887.
July 2,

Yankonde.

144

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

but they do sting awfully, though." " Just so," said I ;
"nothing like experience to stimulate reason."

After distributing the manioc, with an injunction to
boil the roots three times in different /aters, we
resumed the march at 1 p.m. and camped at 4 o'clock.

The next day left the track and struck through the
huge towering forest and jungly undergrowth by compass.
My position in this column was the third from the
leader, so that I could dire(,'t the course. In order to
keep a steady movement, even if slow, I had to instruct
the cutters that each man as he walked should choose
an obstructing lliane, or o])trusive branch of bush, and
give one sharp cut and pass on — the two head men were
confining themselves to an effective and broad " blaze "
on the trees, everv ten vards or so, for the benefit of the
column, and, as the rear party would not follow us
for perhaps two months, we were very particular that
these " blazes " slujuld be quite a hand's-breadth peel of
bark.

Naturally penetrating a trackless wild for the first
time the march was at a funereal pace, in some places at
the rate of 400 yards an hour, in other more open
portions, that is of less undeigrowth, we could travel
at the rate of half, three-(|uarters, and even a mile per
liour^ — so that frcmi C.'iO A.M. to 11 a.m. when we halted
for lunch and rest, and frcmi 12.30 p.m., to 3 o'ch)ck or
4 P.M. in from six to seven hours per day, w^e could
make a march of about five miles. On the usual African

track seen in other

regions we could

have sone from

fourteen to eighteen miles during the same time.
Therefore our object was to keep by settlements, not
only to be assured of food, but in the hope of utilizing
the native roads. We shall see later how we fare<l.

At 4 P.M. of this day we were still on the march,
having passed through a wilderness of creeks, mud, thick
scum-faced ([uagmires green with duckweed into which
we sank knee-deep, and the stencli exhaled from the
fetid slough was most sickening. We had just emerged
out of this baneful stretch of marsliv uround, int(>rsccted
by lazy creeks and shallow long stream-sjiaped r)()ols,

A TEMPEST 7.V THE FOREST.

145

when the forest Itecame suddenly darkened, so (hirk
tliat I fould scarcely read the compass, and a distant
murmur increasing into loud soughing and wrestling and

1887.
July 3.

Yankontid

tossincr of branches and

flfroaning

of mighty trees

warned us of the approach of a tempest. As the
ground round a})out was most uninviting, we had to
press on through the increasing gloom, and then, as the
rain began to drip, we commenced to form camp. The
tents were hastily pitched over the short scrubby bush,
while bill-hooks crashed and axes rang, clearing a
spa(^e for the camp. The rain was cold and heavily
dripped, and every drop, large as a dollar on their
cotton clothes, sent a shiver through the men. The
thunder roared above, the lightning flashed a vivid
light of fire through the darkness, and still the weary
hunorv caravan filed in until 9 o'clock. The rain was
s(^ heavy that fires could not be lit, and until three in
the morning we sat huddled and crouching amid the
cold, damp, and reeking exhalations and minute spray.
Then bonfires were kindled, and around these scores of
flaming pyramids the people sat, to be warmed into
hilarious animation, to roast the bitter manioc, and to
still the gnawing pain of their stomachs.

On the 4th we struck N. by E., and in an hour
heard natives singing in concert afar off. We sent
scouts ahead to ascertain what it meant. We presently
heard firing which seemed to approach nearer. We
mustered the men in the nearest company, stacked
goods and deployed them as skirmishers. Then mes-
sengers came and reported that the scouts had sti'uck
the river, and, as tliey were looking upon it, a canoe
advanced into view with its crew standing with drawn
bows and fixed arrows, which were fiown at them at
once, and conijjelU'd the scouts to tire. We then
resumed the march, and at 8 a.m. we were on the river
again, in time to see a line of native canoes disa})pearing
round a bend on the opposite bank, and one canoe
al>an<loned tied to the ))ank with a goat.

Observing that the river was caln> and free fnnn
ra.pids, and desirous of saving the people from as much

VOL. I. Ji

1887i
July 4.

Yankonde.

146

IN DARKEST AFIilCA.

V ' \

laliour as cirfumstanoes would ofter, the steel boat
sections were brouglit up to the bank, and Mr. Jephson,
whose company had special charge of the Achruicf,
commenced to fit the sections together. In an h<jur
the forty-four burdens, which the vessel formed, had
been attached together and fitted to their respective
places and launched. As the boat weighed forty-four
loads and had a capacity of fifty loads, and at least ten
sick, we could then release ninety-eight jjeople from the
fatigue of bearing loads and carrying Lieutenant Stairs,
who was still very ill. Mr. Jephs(jn and crew were
despatclied across river and the goat secured.

As the Advance was in the river, it was necessary
for the column to cling to the liank. not only for the
protection of the Ijoat, l)ut to be able to utilize the
stream for lessening lal)our. AVant of regular food,
lack of variety, and its poor nutritive (qualities, coupled
with the uroencv which drove us on, reciuiriny' lon«>'
marches and their resulting fatigue, would soon diminish
the strength of the stoutest. A due regard for the
people therefore must be shown, and e^■ery means
available for their assistance must be employed. There-
fore, the boat keeping pace with the column, we
travelled up-stream until '^ p.m. and camped.

On the 5th the boat and column move*! up. as on
the day previous, and made six-and-half miles. The
river continued to be from 500 to 800 yards wide. The
bank was a trifie more open than Ji the interior,
though frequently it was impossil)le to move before
an impenetrable mass of jungle had been tunnelled to
allow our passage under the vault of close network of
branch and climber, cane, and i;>ed al)ove. At 2.i30 we
reached the village of liukanda. A\ e had come across
no track, but had simply l)urst out of the bush and a
somewhat young forest with a clearing. In the middle
of the clearing by the river side was the village. This
fact made me think, and it suggested that if tracks were
not discovei'able by land, and as the people were not
known to possess the ])o\vcr of aerial locomotion, that
communication was maintained by water.

•=5

C
50
B

. 1 )oat
plisoii,
Ivmicc,
hour
1, had
jective
:y-f<)iir
:ist ten
jm the
Stairs,

V were

I'essaiy
For the
ize the

V food,
•oupled
o- hjiio'
imiiiish
for the

means
There-
in, we

as on

Tl
Tl

le
le

|i tenor,
jefore
llled t

•or

()

k of

,30 we

aeross

and a

hUe

This

niK

>
C

]s were
Ire not
that

' 'I

THE VILLAGE OF THE DUKAXDA.

149

We had reason to rejoice at the discovery of a village,
for since the 2nd the caravan 'subsisted on such tubei'S
of manioc as each man took with him on that date.
Had another day passed without meeting with a
clearing we should have suffered from hunger.

It was evening l)efore the ])oat appeared, the passage of
rapids and an adventure with a flotilla of eleven canoes
had detained her. The canoes had been al)andoned in
consequence, and the commander of the boat had secured
them to an island. One was reported to be a (.-apacious
hollow log, capable of carrying nearly as much as the
l)oat. Since the river was the hiohwav of the natives,
we should be wise to employ the stream, by which we
should save our men, and carrv our sick as well as a
reserve of food. For we had been narrowly In'ought to
the vercfe of want on the last dav, and we were utter
strangers in a strange land, groping our way through
darkness. The boat was sent l)ack with an extra crew
to sec;ure the canoe and paddle her up to our camp.

Of course Bukanda had been abandoned long ))ei. re
we reached it — -the village of cone huts was at (ur
disposal — the Held of manioc also. This custom also
was unlike anything I had seen in Africa before.
Previously the nati\'es may have retired witli their
women, but the males had remained with spear and target,
representing ownership. Here the very fowls had taken
to Might. It was clearly a region unsuitable for rlie
study of ethnolog}'.

At noon of the fith we defiled out of Bukanda
refurnished with provisions, and two hours later were in

amp

uninhabited space. We had devoted the

mornmo-

to el

eanniii'

wliose spruigs were

1 )rol>

anc
ven.

•ept

ill

urino- rinos — manv o

ome facts had alreadv impressed themselves unr

up(

us. We observed that the mornings were muggy and
misty — that we were chilly and inclined to l)e cheerless
in consequence ; that it re(|uired some moral < oui-age to
leave camp to l)rave the cold, damp, and fogginess
without, to brave the mud and slush, to ford creeks up
to the waist in water ; that the feelings were terribly

July 5.
Bukanda^

150

IN DAIIKEST AFHICA.

1887.
July 6.

Bukanda.

f i!'
»

IN '!

1 1

i I

depressed in the dismal twilioht from the want of
brightness and sunsliine warmth ; and the depres-
sion caused by the som})re clouds and dull grey
river which reflected the drear davlioht. The actual
temperature on these cold mornings was but seventy
to seventy-two degrees — had we judged of it by our
cheerlessness it might have been twenty degrees less.

The refuse I'eaps of the little villao-es were large and
piled ( th' .'ge of the bank. They were a compost of
filth, sv 'j'Uivr' of streets and huts, peelings of manioc,
and oftei- " vL.ntains with a high heap of oyster-shells.
Had I not mur; else to write about, an interestino'
chapter on these composts, and the morals, manners,
and usages of the aborigines might be written. Just
as Owen could prefigure an extinct mammoth of the
dead ages from the view of a few bones, the history of
a tribe could be developed by me out of these refuse
heaps. Revelling in these fetid exhalations were
representatives of many insect tribes. Columns of ants
wound in and out with more exact formation than
aborigines could compose themselves, fiies buzz in
myriads over the heaps, with the murmur of enjoyment,
butterfiies which would have delighted Jameson's soul
swarmed exulting in their gorgeous colours, and a
perfect cloud of moths hovered above all.

The villages of the Bakuti were reached on the 7th,
after seven hours' slow marchinor and incessant cuttino-.
I occupied a seat in the boat on this day and observed
that the banks were from six to ten feet above the
river on either side, that there were numerous traces of
former occupation easily detected despite the luxuriance
of the young forest that had grown up and usurped
the space once occupied by villages and fields ; that either
wars or epidemics had disturlied the inhabitants twenty
years ago, and that as yet only one crocodile had been
seen on the Aruwimi, and only one hippo, which I took
to be a sure sign that there was not much pasture
in this region.

As the rowers urged the boat gently up the stream,
and I heard the bill-hookr and axes carving away

THE SCENERY ON THE ARVWIMI BANKS.

151

7tll,

rtam,
away

tln-oiigli bush and brake tangle and forest without 1887.
which scarcely a yard of progress could be made, I ''"^^ ']•
regretted more than ever that I had not insisted v ; ^'*''"*'-
})eing allowed to carry out my own plan of havi> ,/
fifteen whale-boats. What toil would have been saved,
and what anxiety would have Ijcen spared me.

On the 9th we gained, after another seven hours'
toiling and marching, the villages of the Bakoka.
Already the people began to look jaded and seedy.
Skewers had penetrated the feet of several, ulcers
began to attract notice l)y their growing virulence,
many people complained of cur us affections in the
limbs. Stairs was slowly recover, ig.

We had passed so many abanr^one'i clearings that our
expedition might have been sunp;>rted for weeks by the
manioc which no owner claimed. It was verv clear that
internecine strife had caused tlie migrations of the
Tribes. The Bakoka villages vere all stockaded, and
the entrance gates were extremely low.

The next day we passed by four villages all closely
stockaded, and on the lOtli came to the rapids of
Gwencrwere'. Here there were seven laroe villaf»;es
bordering the rapids and extending from below to above
the broken water. All the population had fled probably
to the opposite main, or to the islands in mid-river, and
every portable article was carried away except the
usual wreckage of coarse pottery, stools, and benches,
and back rests. The stockades were in "ood order and
villao'es intact. In one larfje villaoe there were 210
conical huts, and two square sheds used for public
assemblies and smithies. This occupied a commanding
bluff sixty feet above the river, and a splendid view of
a dark grey silver stream, flanked by dense and lofty
walls of thickest greenest vegetation, was obtained.

Lieutenant Stairs was fast recovering from his long
attack of bilious fever ; my other compani(jns enjoyed the
best of health, though our diet consisted of vegetables,
leaves of the manioc and herbs bruised and made into
patties. But on this day we had a dish of weaver-
birds furnished by the Doctor, who with his shot-gun

162

IN BAUKKST AFRICA.

1887.
July 10.

Gweng-
were.

! I

|l \

baijoed a few of the thousands which had made their
nests on the vilhige trees.

On the 1 1th we marched about a mile to give the canoe-
men a chance to pole their vessels through the rapids
and the <'olumn a rest. The dav following' marched six
geographical miles, the river turning easterly, which was
our course. Several small rapids were passed witliout
accident. As we were disappearing from view of
Gwengwere', the population was seen scurrying from
the right bank and islands back to their homes, which
they had temporarily vacated for our convenience. It
seemed to me to Ije an excellent arrangement. It saved
trouble of speech, exerted possibly in useless efforts for
peace and tedious chaffer. They had only one night's
inconvenience, and were tliere many caravans advancing
as peacea])ly as we weie, natural curiosity would in time
induce them to come forward to be ac(juainted with the
strangers.

Our people found al)undant to eat in the fields, and
around the villages. The area devoted to cultivation
was extensive : plantains flourished around the stock-
ades ; herbs for potage were found in little plots close to
the viUages ; also sufficient tobacco for smoking, and
pumpkins for dessert, and a little Indian corn ; l)ut, alas,
we all suffered from want of meat.

There were few aquatic l)irds to be seen. There were
some few^ specimens of di^'ers, fish eagles, and king-
fishers. Somewhere, at a distance, a pair of i])is screamed ;
flocks of parrots whistled and jal)l)ered in vain struggles
to rol) the solitude of the vast trackless forest of its
oppressive silence ; whip-poor-wills, and sunbirds, and
weavers aided them with their varied strains ; ])ut insects,
and flies, and moths were innuniera])le.

On the 12th we moved up as usual, starting at G..30 a.m.,
the caravan preceding the boat and its consorts. Though
proceeding only at the rate of a mile and a half per
hour, we soon overhauled the struggling caravan, and
passed the foremost of the pioneers. At 10 a.m. we met
a native boy, called Bakula, of al)out fifteen years, filiating
down river on a piece of a canoe. He sprung aljoard our

ANOTHEli FllflOi'S TEMI'KST.

their

A.M.

168

1887.
Inly V2.

(1 our

])()at with akcrity, aiul used liis paihlle properly
hour later we rounded the hnvest point of a lenothy j''''^ ^
curve, l)ristling with nunierou.s larj^^e villages. 'I'lie hoy
volunteer who had drop})ed to our aid from the unknown,
called the lower villaoe Bandanui, the next Nduinlia, and
the Ion*;' row of villages ahove, the houses of the Banalya
tril)e. But all were deserted. We halted at l)andangi
for lunch, and at 2 p.m. resumed our journey.

An hour's pull hrought us to the up})er village, where
we campevl. Our river party on this dny numbered forty
men ; hut, as we landed, we were lost in the large and
silent villa<>;e. 1 had counted thirteen villaues — one of
these nuni])ered 180 huts. Assuming that in this curve
there were 1300 huts, and aUowing only four persons to
each hut, we have a populadon of 5200.

At 5.30 appeared the advance guard of the column,
and presently a furious tempest visited us, with such
violent accompaniments of thunder and lightning as
might have been expected to he necessary to clear the
atmosphere charged with the collected vap(Hirs of this
humid region — through which the sun appeared daily as
thrcnigh a thick veil. Therelbre the explosive force of
the electric fluid was terrific. All about us, and at all
points, it lightened and shattered with deafening exj)lo-
sions, and blinding forks of Hame, the thick, sluggish,
vaporous clouds. Nothing less than excessive eneruv of
concentrated electricity could have cleared the heavy
atmosphere, and allowed the inhabitants of the land to
see the colour of the sky, and to feel the cheering in-
fluence of the sun. For four hours we had to endure the
dreadful bursts; while a steady stream of rain relieved
the surcharcjed masses that had hun<i' incum])ent above
us for days. While the river party and advance guard
were housed in the upper village, the rear guard and
No. 4 Company occupied Bandangi. at the town end of
the crescent, and we heard them shooting minute guns to
warn us of their presence ; while we vainly, for econo-
mical reasons, replied with the tooting of long ivory
horns.

Such a large population naturally owned exclusive

154

7.V DAliKEST AFRICA.

1887. fields of maiii(K', plMiitatioiis of hananas, and plantains,
July 12. suo-ar-caiK', uardcns of JR-i-lts. and Indian corn, and as the
*" '"'^''" heavy rain had saturated the «;rountl, a halt was ortlered.
iiv nine o'clock the rear ouard was known to have
arrived by Nelson's voice erying out for " chop and
coti'ee" — our chop consisted of eassava cakes, a plantain
or so roasted, and a mess of warden greens, with tea or
cotfee. Flesh of goat or fowl was sini2)ly unprocurahle.
Neither lard nor beast of anv kind was to he obtained.
Hitherto only two crocodiles and but one hii)})o had
been discovered, but no elephant, buffalo, or antelojw or
wild hog, though tracks were numerous. How could it
be otherwise with the pioneers' shouts, cries, noise of
cutting and crushing, and poundingof trees, the murmur
of a large caravan ? With the continuous gossip, story-
telling, wrangling, laughing or wailing that were main-
tained during the march, it was simply impossible. Pro-
gress through the undergrowth was denied without a
heavy knife, machette, or bill-hook to sever entangling
creepers, and while an animal may have been only a few
feet off on the other side of a bush, vain was the attempt
to obtain view of it through impervious masses of vege-
tation.

In our boat I employed the halt for examining the
islands near Bandangi. We discovered lengthy heaps of
oyster-shells on one island, one of which was sixty feet
long, ten feet wide, and four feet high ; we can imagine
the feasts of the bivalves that the aborigines enjcjyed
during their picnics, and the length of time that had
elapsed since the first bivalve had been eaten. On my
return I noticed through a bank-slip in the centre of the
curve a stratum of oyster-shell buried three feet under
alluvium.

Our native boy Bakula, informed us that inland north
lived the Baburu, who were very different from the
river triV)es, that up river, a month's journey, would be
found dwarfs about two feet high, with long beards ;
that he had once journeyed as far as Panga where the
river tumbletl from a height as high as the tallest tree,
that the Aruwimi was now called Lui by the people of

OUR NATIVE HOY liAKVLA.

155

the left bank, but that to the Babmu on tlie right bank
it was known as the Luhali. BakiUa was an exceptionally
erafty hul, a pui'e cannibal, to whom a mess of human
meat would have been delectalde. lie was a perfect
mimic, and had by native cunninijf protected himself by
conforming readily to what he divined would be j)leasing
to the strangers by whom he was surrounded. Had all
the native tril)es a»h)pted this boy's })olicy our passage
through these novel huids would have been as 2)leasant
as eould be desired. 1 have no doubt that they p<js-
sessed all the arts of eraft which we admired in Jiakula,
they had simply not the courage to do what an ac(.'ident
had enabled him to carry out.

From Chief Bambi's town of tlie Banalya we moved
to Buni^anoeta villaoes bv river and land on the 1 5th. It
was a stern and sombre morning, gloomy with lowering
and heavy clouds. It struck me on this dull dreary
morning, while regarding the silent flowing waters of the
dark river and the long unbroken forest frontage, that
nature in this region seems to be waiting the long ex-
pected trumpet-call of civilization — that appointed time
when she shall awake to her duties, as in other portions
of the earth. I compared this waiting attitude to the
stillness preceding the dawn, before the insect and animal
life is astir to fret the air with its murmur, before the
day has awakened the million minute passions of the
wilds ; at that hour when even Time seems to be drowsy
and nodding, our inmost thoughts appear to be loutl,
and the heart throbs to 1)6 clamorous. But when the
young day peeps forth white and gray in the East the
eyelids rf the world lift up. There is a movement and a
hum of invisible life, and all the earth seems wakened
from its broodino'. But withal, the forest world remains
restful, and Nature bides her day, and the river -hows no
life ; unlike Rip Van Winkle, Nature, despite her im-
measurably long ages of sleep, indicates no agedness, so
old, incredibly old, she is still a virgin locked in ir ; ocent
repose.

What expansive wastes of rich productive land lie in
this region unheeded by man ! Populous though the

1887.^
July 12.

Mamlangl.

156

IX DARKKHT AFRICA.

1887. liver l»;inks are, they are l)ut slightly di.sturhed hy
July U). 1.^1,,)^. — ..^ ti'itiiuo- oTuhbiiio- of parts (jf the foreshore, a

geu"' limited acreage for manioc, within a crater-like area in
the bosom of the dark woods, and a narrow line of small
cotes, wherein the savages huddle within their narrow
circumference.

One of my amusements in the boat was to sketch the
unknown course of the river — for as the aborioines
disappearetl like rats into their holes on one's approach
1 could gain no information respecting it. How far was
it permissible iov me to deviate from my course ? By
the river I could assist the ailino- and relieve the strono-.
The goods could be transported and the feeble conveyed.
Reserves of manioc and plantain could also be carrie<l.
But would a someuhat lono' curve, windiiiQ' as hio-h as
•some fortv or fiftv uec^raphical miles north of our
course, be compensated by these advantages of relief oi
the porters, and the abuiKhuice of provisions thnt are
assuredlv found on the l)aiiks ? When I noted the
number of the sick, and saw the jaded condition of the
people, I felt that if the river ascended as far as 2"^ N.,
it was infinitely preferal)le to plunging into the centre
of the forest.

The temperatui'e of the air during the clouded morn-
ing was 75^, surface of the river 77°. What a relief it
was to breathe the air of tlie river after a night spent in
inhaling the close impure air in the forest by night !

On the IGtli we ])ossessc(l one l»oat and five canoes,
caiTvino; '^('ventv-four men and 120 loads, so that with
the weii>ht of tlie boat sections, half of our men were
relieved of loads, and carried nothing every alternative
(hiy. We passed by the mouth of a considerable atHuent
from the south-east, and camped a mih> altovc it. The
tein[)eraturc rose to '.)4° in the afternoon, and ns a
conse(|uence rain fell in torrents, preceded by tlie usual
thunder roars and lightning Hashes. Tntil I p.m. ot
the 17th the rain fell unceasingly. It would have hccu
interesting to have ascertained the number of indies
that fell during these nineteen houi's' rain-pour. Few
of the people enjoyed any rest ; there was a general

;

ii •!

THE SOMALJS.

157

moos,

with

wore

lative

Huont

The

iis ;i
usual
M, of

heel I
iiches

l'\'W

|'U(M"ll

wrinirinff of hlaiikets and eh)thes after it eeased, ])ut it
was some hours before they recovered their usual ani-
mation. The a])origines must liave been also depressed,
owing to our vicinity, though if they had ki^own what
wealth we possessed, they might have freely parted with
their goats and fowls for our wares.

The column camped at 3 p.m. opposite the settlement
of Lower Mariri. Besides their immense wooden drums,
whi(,'li sounded the alarm to a ten-mile distance, the
natives vociferated with unusual powers of lung, so
that their cries could be heard a mile oil'. The absence
of all other noises lends peculiar power to their voices.

The Somalis, who are such excellent and ethcient
servants in lands like the Masai, or diy regions like
the Soudan, are perfectly useless in humid regions.
Five of them declined to stay at Yambuya, and insisted
on accompanying me. Since we had taken to the river
I had employed them as boatmen, or rather did employ
them when they were able to handle a peddle or a pole,
but their physi<'al powers soon collapsed, and they
became mere passengers. On shore, without having
undergone any exertion, they were so prostrated after a
two hours' river voyage, that they were unable to rig
shelter against rain and damp, and as they were thievish
the Zanzibaris refused to permit them to a})})i'oach their
huts. The result was that we had the trouble each day
to see that a share of food even was doled out to them,
as they would have voluntarily starved rather than cut
d(»wn the plantains above their heads.

From oj)posite Lower Mariri we journeyed to a spot
ten miles below the Up[)er .Mariri on the 18th. The
canoes had only occupied 4 h, \b m,, but the land
column did not ap})ear at all.

(hi the 19th I employed the boat and canoe crews to
cut a road to above a section of the rapids of Lpjicr
Marii'i. This was accomplished in 'J^ hours. \Ve
returned to canij) iu 45 minutes. ( hir pace going uj)
was similar to that of the caravan, conse(|uently an
ordinary day's travel through the forest W(»uld be six
miles. On returning to camp formed the column, and

July 17.

Lower
Mariri.

158

IN DABKEST AFRICA.

1887. marched it to the end of our paths ; the boat and

July 20. ,..^i|Qe,ij were punted up the rapids without accident, and

jii|!|j^i in the afternoon the people foraged for food at a viUage

a mile and a half above camp with happy results. ( )n

the 20th the advance ccjlumn marched up and occupied

the villaoe.

Altout two hours after arrival some of the natives of
IMariri came in a canoe and hailed us. We replied
tlirough Bakula, the native boy, and in a short time
were able to purchase a coujDle of f(jwls, and during the
afternoon were al)le to purchase three more. This was
the first barter we had been able to etlect (Hi the Aru-
winii. ]\lariri is a large settlement aliounding in plan-
t<uns, while at our viUage there were none. Two men,
Charlie No. 1 and ]\Iusa bin Juma disappeared on this
day. V\^ithin twent\'-tliree days we had not lost a man.

No casualty had as yet happened, and good fortune,
whi('li had hitherto clung to us, from tliis date began to
desert us. We were under the impression that those
men had been captured by natives, and their heedless
con'luct was the text of a sermon preached to the men
next morning when they were mustered for the march.
It was not until thirteen months later that we knew
tlu.t they had deserted, that they had succeeded in
reaching Yambuya, and had invented the most mar-
vellous tales of wars and disasters, which, when repeated
by the otticers at Yambuya in their letter to the (Jom-
mittee, created so much anxiety. Had I believed it
had l)een possible that two messengers could Jiave
I)erformed that march, we certainly had availed our-
selves of the fa(.'t to have communicated authentic news
and chart of the route to ^lajor i3artrelot, who 'n
another month would be leaving his camp as we be-
lieved. From the viUage opposite Upper JMariri we
proceeded to 8. Mupc', a large settlement consisting of
several villages, eml»o\v(>red in plantations. The chiefs
of Mu{)e are Mbadu. Aliniba. antl ^langrudi.

On the L'L*nd Surgeon Parke was the otticer of the
day, ami \v;i> unfortunate enough to miss the I'iver, and
strike thnjugh the forest in a wrong direction. He

and
and

tlie

THE BADE MAXNEIiS, CUSTOMS, AND DliESS. 159

finally struck a track on which the scouts found a
woman and a large-eyed, brown-coloured child. The
woman showed, the route t(^ the river, and was after-
wards released. Through her intluence the natives of
N. Mupe on the right bank were induced to trade with
us, by which we were enal)led to procure a dozen fowls
and two eggs.

The bed of the river in this locality is an undisturbed
rock of iine-grained and hard, brick-coloured sandstone.
This is the reason that the little rapids, thougli fre(jucnt
enough, present but little obstacles to navigation. The
banks at several places rose to about forty feet above
the river, and the rock is seen in horizontal strata in
bluffy form, in many instances like crumbling ruins of
cut stone.

The sign of peace with these riverine natives appears
to }»e the pouring of water on their heads with tlicir
hands. As new-comers approached our camp they cried
out, " We suffer fnmi famine, we have no food, but up
river you will find plenty. Oh, ' monomopote ' I (son of
the sea)." " But we sutler from want of food, and have
not the strength to proceed unless you give us some,"
we replied. Whereu])on ihey threw us fat eai's of
Indian corn, plantains, and sugai'-cane. This was
preliminary to a trade, in doing wliicli these apparently
unsophisticated natives were as sharp and as exorbitant
as any of the Wvyanzi on the (ongo. The natives of
Mupe' are called Babe',

'i'ritles, such as em])ty sardine boxes, jam and milk
cans, and caitridge cases, wei'e easily bartersible Ibr
sugar-cane, Indian corn, and tobacco. A cotton hand-
kerchief would buy a fowl, goats were brought t(» <»ur
view, but not parted with. They are said to be iIk^
monopoly of chiefs. The natives showed no iixed
desire for any speciality bur cloth — gaudy re(l handker-
chiefs. We s w some cowries among them, and in the
))ottom of a canoe we found a piece of an inl'antrv
officer's sword nine in<'lics long. We should have been
delighted to have heai'd the hist(ny of that swoid. and
the list of its owners since it left liii'mineluiin. Iiut we

1887.
July 22.

Mupe.

160

IN DAL' REST AFlilCA.

1S87.
July 22

JJ upe.

coulil not maintain any lengthy conversation \\\ir\ ihem,
our ignorance of the hmgiiage, and their excit.ibility
prevented us from doing more tlian observing and
interchanging words rehiting to peace and food with

them. We can accept the bit
of sword blade as evidence that
their neighbours in the inierior
have had some contact witii the
Soudanese.

Neither in manners, cusioms
or dress was there any very
great difierence between these
natives and those belonoinoj to
the upper parts of the Upper
Congo. Their \\ ^,ad-di'esses were
of l)asket work decorated with
red parrot feathers, monkey
skin caps of grey or dark fur,
with the tails drooping ])ehind.
The neck, arm and ankle orna-
ments were of polished iron,
rarely of copper, ne\' m- of brass.
They make beautiful paddles,
finely carved like a long pointed
I'.if, " Senneneh " was the
peaceful hail as in M^inyuema, Uregga and Usongora,
above Stanley Falls. The complexion of these natives
is mere ochreous than black. When a body of them is
seen on the opposite l)ank, there is little diflerence o^

HEAD-DRESS — CHOWN OF
BRISTLES.

PADDLE OF THE VITEK AlilWIMI OR ITVRI.

colour between their bodies and tlie reddish clayey soil
of the landiiig-place. Mu<*h of this is due to the
CaL'wood powder, and with thi.** «wxed wjrii oil they
perform their touet. But pruteetion from sunshine

iH-^

QUALITIES OF MY FnrjR OFFICERS.

vn.

oil
he
they
ihine

consi<leml')ly C(.nrril)Utes to this li,<>'ht colour. The
native l)oy, Bakiila, for iiiscaiiee, was deprived of this
universal cosmetic made of Camwood, and he was mucli
lighter than tVe avfrai>"e of our Zanzibaris.

(hi the 24th, ^Ir. Jephson led the van of the column,
and under his ouidance we made the astonishin<>' maivli of
seven and a half o'eouTai)hical miles — the column havinii'
l)een compelled to wade througli seventeen streams and
creeks. During these days Jephson exhibited a marvellous
vio'our. Ke was in manv thinos an exact du])li('!ite of
nivself iv my vounoer davs, ])efore vears and hundi'c(ls
of fevers had cooled my l)urning' hlood. lie is exactly
of my own height, huild and weight and temperament.
lie is sanguine, confid 'ut, and 1,'ves hard work. He is
simplv indefatigahle, and whether it is slushy mire or
a muddy creek, in he enters, without hesitation, up to
his knees, waist, neck or (n^erhead it is all the same.
A svharite, daintv and fastidious in civilizati(m,a traveller
and labourer in Africa, he re<|uires to he restrained and
counselled for his own sake. Now these young men,
Stairs, Nelson and Parke, are veiy much in the same
way. Stall's is the military otticer, alert, intelligent,
who understands a hint, a curt intimation, gra. ps an
idea firndy and realises it to perfection. Xel-on V a
centui'ion as of old Roman times, he can execute '» ctiuse
it is the will of his chief; he does not stay to u.-k the
reason why ; he only undei'stands it to l»e a nec<-:.sity,
and his great vigour, strength, resolution, plain, good
sense is at my disposal, to act, suffci (jr die ; and Parke,
noble, gentle soul, so tendei- and <levoted. so patient, so
sweet in mood and brave in temper, always en<luring
and etl'using c(mifort as he moves through our atmos-
})here of sutlering and pain. N» four men ever entered
Africa with such (jualities as these. No leader evej' had
cause to l)less his stars a.s 1.

(hi this dav Jenhson had two adventures. In his
usual free, impulsive manner, and with swinging gait
he was directing the pioneers — crushing through the
jungle, in<litl'erent to liis costum when he suddenly
wank out of sight int(; an ele[)hant pit I We might

VOL. I. L

•rnjx'.

' • .-— y"

1H2

IX DARK K.ST AFlUr'A.

18ft7.
July 24.

Mu|ie.

(!i

luive imaoiiied a playful and sportive yoiino- elephant
crasliini;' tlirouuli the liushes, rendini; and tearing young-
saplings, and suddenly disappeai'ing from the view of
his nioi'c staid mamma. Jephson lia<l intelligenee, how-
ever, and aid was at liand. and he was pulled out none
the worse. It was a mere amusing incident to he
detailed in camp and to provoke a laugh.

He rushed ahead of the pioneers to trace the c((urse
to he followed, and presently encountered a tall native,
with a spear in his hand, face to face. Both were so
astonished as to he paralysed, hut -lephson's impulse
was that of a Berseker. He flung himself, unarmed,
upon the native, who, eluding his grasp, ran from him,
as he would from a lion, headlong down a steep hank
into a creek, -leplison following. But the clayey soil
was (lani[) and slippery, his foot sli])ped, and the gallant
Ca[)tain of the Ailrance measured his length face
downwards with his feet up the slope, and such was
ills impetus that he slid (h)wn to the edge of the creek.
When he recovered himself it was to hehold the denizen
'»f the woods, hurrying wy- the opposite hank and casting
wild eyes at this sudden pale-faced appai'ition who had
so disturhed him as he hrooded over the prospect of
timling game in his traps that day.

( kir camp ('ii this day was a favourite haunt of
ele|)hai's from time immemorial. It was near a point
round which the river raced with stronii; swirling
currents. A long view of a hroad silent river is seen
npwj'id, and one of a river disparted hy a series of
islands helow.

Ui! the 25th Captain Nelson led the column, Jephson
\vas I'l'i^ijested to assist me with the long narrow canoes
lacicn with valuahle goods, and to direct some of the
unfkiir'ul " lubhers ' who formed our crews. The hoat
led th;* m.;>' anchored altove the dangerous and swirly
point, and east the manilla rope to the canoe crew, who,
hauliiig hy this cord drew the canoes to (juiet water.
Then rowiuii' hard auainst the stnmu' currents, at 1 I a.m.
we caught the head of the caravan gathered on the hank
of a wide and dark sluggish creek, the Hendi, which lazily

WASP L'Al'IDS.

163

had

it of

point

irlin^sj;

.seen

les of

)llS()ll

aiioes
)f tlie

Itoat
Avirly

who,
water.

I A.M.

l»aiik
lazily

Howc<l out of dark depths of woods. By one o'('h)ek tlie
fei'i'iai>'e was comphjted, and the coluuiii vesunied its
marcli, while we, on the river, lietoo! airsek.es to
further struii'U'los with the (hin,i2,erous v.-;.,es and reefs of
what is now called Wasp Kapids, from the following
incident.

These rapids extended for a stretch of two miles.
Ahove them were the villa,i;es which hecanie the scene
of a tragic strife, as will be learned hiter in a snljseipient
cha})ter, and these settlements were the dear objects of
our aims in order to obtain shelter and f )od.

( hu' first ettbrts against the rapids were successful.
The current was swift and dangerous, l)reaking out into
great waves now and then. For the first half-hour we
were successful. Then beuan a strno'ule, rowinij' on one
side hard and the starl)oard side crew gras})ing at over-
hanging l)uslies, two men poling, two men on the decked
b(tw, with boat-hooks outstretched with their fangs ready
to snatch at saplings for firm hold. I steered. We
advanced slowly but steadily, a narrow rushing branch
between rocky islets, and the ])ank was 'oefore us which
raced over a reef, showing itself in yard s(|uare dots of
rock above the waves. We elected to ascend this as in
view of a capsize there was less fear of drowning.
AVith nol)le spirits l)i'aced for an exciting encounter, we
entered it. Eager hands were held out to catch at the
branches, but at the first clutch there issued at this
critical moment an army of fierce spiteful was[)s and
settled on our faces, hands, and bodies, every vulneral)le
spot, and stung us with the venom of fien<ls. Maddened
and hduriated by the burning stings, Itattling with this
vicious enemv, l)eset bv reefs, and rocks, and danuerous
waves, and whirling vortexes, we tore on with tooth and
nail, and in a few minutes were a hundred vards above the
awful s[)ot. Then, clinging to the trees, we halted to
breathe and sympathise with eadi other, and exchange
views and oj)inions on the various stings of insects, bees,
hornets, and wasps.

< hie asked niv servant with a orim smile, " Did vou
say the other day that you belie\ed there was much

1887.
.'uiy -25.

Wasp
Rai)lils.

164

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
July 25.

Wasp
Kai)i(l.s.

lionoy in these Iti'owii })aper nests of the wa.=<ps ?
Well, what (h) you think of the honey now? Don't
y(Ki think it is rather a hitter sent?" This raised
a o-eneral lanuii. We recovered our oood temper,
and resumed our work, and in an hour reached the
villao'e which the land party had occupie<L The canoe><
crews, who followed us, seeing the hattle with the
wasps, fled across river, and ascended h}' the right
hank. But the Somalis and 8ou(hinese, more trustful

WAsrs NKsrs, i:tc

in Allah, l)ravely followed our track, and were dread-
fully stung ■ still, they were consoled l»y being ahle to
exult over the Zanziharis, the leader of which was
Uledi, of the "Dai'k Continent."

"Oh," I remarked to Uledi, "it is not a hrave thing
you have done this day — to tly away from wasj)s."

"Oh, sir," he replied, "naked manhood is nowhere
in such a scrape as that. Wasps are more (hmgerous
than the most .savaoe men."

VISIT FROM THE CHIEF OF nWAMBrUL

165

asps ?
Don't
I'iiise*!
iii[)er,
(I the
aiioos
li the
ri,uht
■ustt'ul

ilroatl-
l)le to
li was

thing

owhere
loeruuB

The native settlement on the h'ft hank is called
Bandeya ; tlu' one facing' opposite consists of the villa<;es
of the Bwamhuri. North of the Bwanilairi, a day's
mari'h. hcuins the trihes of the Ahahna and the Mahodc,
who have a diflevent kind of architecture from the
stee[)ly conical huts prevailini;' among the riverine
trihes. The Mahodc are said to possess sipiare houses
with galde roofs, the walls are neatl}' plastered, and
ah)ng the fronts are clay verandahs.

On the 2Gth we halted to rest and recuperate. Those
of us who were attacked hy the wasps suH'cred from a
fever: the coxswain of the hoat was in gicat distress.
The following day the chief of the Bwamhuri came over
to pay us a \isit, and hrought us as a gift a month old
chick, which was declined on the gi'ound that we should
feel we were rohhing him were we to accept such a gift
from a professedly j)oor man. His ornaments consisted
of two small ivory tusks planed Hat and polished, which
hung suspended from a string made of grass encircling
his neck. His head-dress was a long-haired monkey
skin. We exchanged professions of amity and hrother-
liood. and commenced the march, and cam})ed op])osite
jMukupi, a settlement possessing eight villages, on the
28th.

Two sturdy [)risoners imparted to us strange informa-
tion of a laro'e lake called " No-uma, ' as hein*'' situate
somewhere in the neighhourhood of a place called
Fanga. It was said to l»e many (hiys' journey in
extent. In the centre was a large island, so infested
with serpents that natives dreaded to g') near it ; that
from it flowed the Nepoko into the Nowelle, the name
now given to the .Aruwimi. After several chiys' march
we discovered that the lake storv was a mvth, and that
the Ne[)oko did not flow from the left hank of the
Aruwimi.

Our camp on the 29th was opposite My-yui, a series
of villaoes end)owered amonjist hanana orovos on the
right hank. It was not long hefore we struck an
ac(|uaintance with this trihe. AVe (piickly recognized
a disposition on the part of the al)origines to be

1887.
.luly 'iU.

WitSj.

Kaiiids.

106

jy DAllKll^T AFIiirA.

1 887.
July '2it

My-yui.

1 1 .:!'

sociable. A good ivjtort of oiii' doinos liad prc('odo(l
lis. Trade connnenced very pleasantly. Our people
had cowries, l>eads, and hrass rods, besides strange
triHes to cxcliano'e for food. W hen tlie land coluinn
arrived, [)rices advanced somewhat, owini"' to the oreater
demand. It was reported that there wore no settle-
ments between our cani[) opposite .My-yui aixl Panoa ;
that we should be nine days performing the journey
through the forest.

The next morning the ])artering was i-esumed, because
we wished to prepare provisions for several days ; new
ration currency had alreadv ])een distributed to each
man. Ihit we were astonislied to find that only three
ears of Indian corn were i-iven on this dav foi' a brass
rod ts'entv-eiii'ht inches in leiiiith, of the thickness of
telegraph wire. At i)angala such a brass rod would
have purchased five chiys' provisions per man in my
(hiys, and here was a settlement in the wilds where we
could only obtain three ears of eoi'n ! For one fowl four
brass rods were demanikHb (V)wries were not accepted ;
l)eads they declined. The men were ravenously hungry ;
there were nine days' wilderness ahead. Was]) ra])ids
was the nearest place below. We ex})ostulated, but
thev were firm. The men then Iteyaii to sell their
cartridge-pouches for two plantains each. 1'hey were
detected selling their ammunition at the rate of one
cartridge for an ear of corn ; a tin canteen puichased
two. Bill-hooks and axes went next, and ruin staled us
in the face. The natives were driven away ; one of
Mugwye's (the chiefs) principal slaves was lifted out
of his canoe by a gigantic Zanzil>ari, and word was sent
to the natives that if there were no fair sales of food
made as on the first (hiy, that the jnisoner would ])e
taken away, and that we shoukl cross over and help
ourselves.

Having waited all tlic afternoon for tlie reappearance
of food, w^e embarked at dawn on the -"Mst with two full
companies, entered My-yui, and despatched the foragers.
By 3 P.M. there was foixl enough in the camp for teu
days

VAKOE ACCIDKST UVru^lTK MAMJiA.XdA.

la;

111 the at'teniooii of the 1st of" August, tlio jKhaiice
ooliinni was eiicaiiipiMl (>j)])()site ManihaiiL'a. Tlic livor
pai'tv met with an acciiK'nt. C areloss SoudaiK'sc were
capsizod. and one of the Zanzil»ari steersmen disolicyino'
orders shoved his eanoe under the hraneliy trees which
.spread out from the hank to tiie distanee of fifty feet ;
and hvthe swift current was driven a^-ainst a suhnierued
l)ranch, and ca[)sized. causin,u' a h)ss of vahiahh' property
— some of tliem l)eing fine lu^ids. worth four shillings a
neckhice. Six riHes were also lost.

The first death in the advance column occui'reil on tlie
2nd August, the .'^dtli day of dej)arture from Yamhuya,
whi<-h was a most extraor<linary immunity consi(U'rinu'
the hardshi]) and privations to which we weic all
suhjected. Could we have discovcre(l a settlement
of liananas on the other hank, we should certainly have
halted to recuperate for many days. A halt at this
period of four or five days at a tlirivin,u" settlement,
would have been of vast benefit to all of us, hut such a
settlement had not been found, and it was necessary for
us to march and press on until we could discover one.

We traversed a large villaue that had l»een abandoned
for probably six months before we reached, and as it
was the hour of camping, we pre])ared to make ourselves
comfortable for the evening. But as the tents were
being pitched, my attention was called to the cries
made by excited groups, and hastening to the scene,
heard that there was a dead l)ody almost covered with
mildew in a hut. Presently the discovery of another
was announced and then another. This sufficed to
cause us to hastily ])ack up again and de])art from the
dead men's village, lest we might contract the strange
<lisease that had caused the abandonment of the village.

One of our poor donkeys, unable to find fitting
sustenance in the region of trees and jungle, lay down
and died. Another appeared weak and pining for grass,
which the endless forest did not produce.

Opposite our camp on this dav was the mouth of the
Ngula River, an affluent on the north side. Within the
river it appeared to be of a width of fifty yards.

1887.
A tic;. 1.

M;ini-
bang.'i.

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

.*• A ^.

1.0

1.1

1.25

liij^ 12.5

|50 ■^" H^H

■^ 1^ |2.2

Photographic

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MStO

(716) •73-4503

-<^*

'"fc'^

C/.

I'M

! .;

rill

18ft7.
Aug. 3.

Xgulii
River.

168

IN DARKEST AFL'/CA.

On the ;h'(l two hills became visible, one bearing
E.8.E., the other S.E. by E. J E., a.s we moved up the
river. We camped at the point of a curve in the centre
of which were two islands. Paying a visit to one of
them we found two goats, at which we were so rejoiced,
that lono" before evenino- one was slauohtered for the

o o o _

officers, and another to make broth iov the sick. A
flock of a hundred wcudd have saved many a life that
was rapidly fading away.

I ' I

FO:tT ISLANP, NEAR I'ANOA FAILS.

The next day we arrived at Panga or the Nepanga
Falls, about which we had heard so much from Bakula,
the native l>oy.

The falls are fully thirty feet high, though at first
view they appear to be double that height, by the great
slope visible alxn'e the actual fall. They extend over a
mile in length from the foot of the falls, to above the

ABRIVAL AT PANG A FALLS.

169

portage. They are the first .serious (>]»stafles to navi-
gation we had encountered. They descend by four
separate brandies, the hirgest of which is 200 yards
wide. Tliey run ]>y islets of gneissic rock, and atlbrd
cover to the natives of Panga, who when undistur])ed,
live upon a large island called Nepanga, (►ne mile long
and 300 yards wide, situated 000 yards below the Falls.
This island contains three villages, numbering s(mie
250 huts of the conical tyi)e. There are several
settlements inland on both banks. The staple food
consists of plantains, though there are also fields of
manioc.

1887.
Aug. 4.

I'aiiga
Kails.

I'ANllA I'AI.I.S.

!it first

e great

over a

Dve the

An unfortunate Zanzibari, as though he had vowed
to himself to contribute largely to our ruin, capsized his
canoe as he ap[)roached Nepanga, by which we lost two
boxes <>f ^[axim amnuinition, five boxes of cowries, three
of white beads, one of fancy beads, one box fine copper
wire, cartridge pouches and seven rifies.

All things are savage in this region. No sooner luxl
a solitary hippo sighted us than lie gave chase, and
nearly caught us. lie was punislicd severely, and
pi'obably received his tlcath wound. The fowls of
Nepanga declined to be caught on the island of
Nepanga, but eva<led the foragers by fiight into the

/•

#■

111

IS-

^^^

1887.
Aug. 4.

P/mgii
Falls,

170

IN DAllKEHT AFIilCA.

jun<rl'j ; the ooats were restless, and combative, and very
wild. Altogether we captured twelve, which gave us
some hopes of heing able to save some of our sick
people. A few fish were obtained in the weirs and
basket-nets.

The results of 3 days' foraging on islands, right and
left banks were 250 lbs. of Indian corn, 18 goats, and
as many fowls, besides a few branches of plantains,
among 383 people. A number of villages and settle-
ments were searched, Init the natives do not appear to
possess a sufficiency of food. They were said to be at
war with a tribe called the Engwedde, and instejid of
cultivating live on ))anana stalks, mushrooms, roots,
herbs, fish, and snails and caterpillars, varying this
extraordinary diet by feeding on slain humanit). In
such a region there were no inducements to stay, and
we accordingly commenced the business of portage.
Stairs' Ccmipany was detailed for clearing the canoe
tra(;k, and to strew it with liranches placeil athwart the
road. No. 3 and 4 Companies hauled the canoes, and
No. 1 Company carried the whale-boat bodily overland
to the sound of wild music and song, and by the end of
the nth, after a busy day, we were encamped above the
great Falls of Panga.

1 ,

CHAPTER vrir.

FROM PANG A FALLS TO ITJ ARROW Wa's.

Another accident at the Rapids — The villajre of Utiri — Avisibl)a set'le-
mcnt— Inquiry into a murder case at Avi8il)ba — Surprised l)y the
natives — Lieutenant Stairs wounded — We lumt up tlie enemy —
The poisoned arrows — Indiiferenee of the Zanziharis — Jeplison's
caravan missinp — Our wounded — Per))otnal rain— Deaths of Khnlfan,
Saadi, and others — Arrival of caravan — The Mahengu Rai)i(is—
Mustering the people — The Nejioko river — Remarks hy liinza — Our
food supply — Reckless use of ammunition — Halfway to the All»ert
Lake — We fall in with some of L'parrowwa's men — Absconders— We
camp at Hippo Broads and Avakuhi Ra])ids — The destroyed settle-
ment of Navahi— Elephants at Meml)erri — More desertions— The
Arab leader, Ugarrowwa — He gives us information — Visit to the Arab
settlement — First specimen of the tribe of dwarfs — Arrangements
with Ugarrowwa.

In full view of this last camp there was an island
in mid-river distant a])Out two miles, that resem])led
a water battery, and a village lying low, apparently
level with the face of the river. On exploring it on
the 7th — by no means an easy task, so strong was
the current sweeping <lown the smootli dangerous
slope of river towards Panga — it appeared to have
})een orimnallv a flat rockv mass of rock a few inches
above high river, with ine(|ualities on its surface wliidi
had been filled in with earth carried from the left bank.
It measured 200 feet in length by aljout ninety feet in
width, to which a piscatorial section of a tril)e had
retreated and built (JO c<)ne huts, and boarded it round
al)out with planks cut out of a light wood out of the
forest and wrecked canoes. At this period the river
was })ut six inches l)elow tlie lowest surface of tlie ishmd.
Another serious accident occurred on this dav duriuij
the journey from alnjve Panga Falls to Nejaml>i Kajiids.

1K«7.
Aug. 7.

I'nnga
Falls.

1 ■ ' t '

E:.: ■ , =?

Ifp

I ■

!i:

hi I

I I

172

JX DAUKEST Al'ItK'A.

1887.
Aug. 7.

I'anga
Falls.

A witless, iintliiiiking canoe coxswain took his canoe
ainon<^ tlie l>ranclies in broken water, got entangled, and
capsized. Nine out of eleven rifles were recovered ;
two cases of gunpowder were lost. The Zanzil)aris
were so heedless and lu))l)erly amoiM,-- rapids that I felt
myself growing rapidly aged with intense anxiety while
ol)serving them. How headstrong human nature is
prone to b^, I had ample proofs daily. ^ly losses,
trouljles, and anxieties rose solely from the reckless

VIEW UK L'TIUI VILLAGK.

indifference to instructions manifested l^y my followers.
On land they wandered into the forest, and simply dis-
appeared, or were stabbed or pierced with arrows. So
far we had lost eight men and seventeen rifles.

(Jn the 8th the caravan had hauled the canoes past
Nejambi Rapids, and was camped a few miles })elow
Utiri. The next day we reached the villages, where
we found the architecture had changed. The houses
were now all ga1)le-roofed and low, and each one
surrounded by strong, tall, split log palisades, six feet
louii", nine inches bv four inches wide and thick, of the

•tes^je^

)wers.
Jis-

MARCH TO AVlSTBIiA SETTLKMKXT.

173

riil)iue8e wood. C'oii.sti'ucted in two lines, a street
a) tout twenty feet ran between them. As 1 oltserved
them I was impressed with the fact tliat they were
extremely defensi))le even against riHes. A dozen
resolute men in each court of one of these villaoes
armed with poisoned arrows mi_i>ht liave caused c«>n-
sidera])le h)ss and annoyance to an enemy.

On the 10th we halted, and foragers were desj. cclied
in three ditlerent directions with poor results, only two
days' rations being procurable. One man, named Khalfan.
ha«l l)een wounded in the wind-pi[)e by a wooden arrow.
The manner he received the wound indicates the pei-fect
imlitference with which they receive instructions. While
Khalfan examined the plantains altove, a native stcxsd
not twenty feet away and shot him in the throat with a
poisoned arrow. The arrow wound was a mere needle-
point puncture, and Dr. Parke attended t(.' him with
care, ])ut it had a fatal conse<pience a few days later.

The llth was consumed by the river j)arty in
strugglino; against a wild stretch, five miles long, of
rapids, caused by numerous reefs and rocky islets, while
the land column wound along the river bank on a
passable track which led them to Engwedde, where we
rejoined them on the I2th. Our day's rate having
been broken ])y the rapids, foragers weie again despatched
to collect food, and succeeded in procuring three days'
rations of plantains. On the I .'Uh we marched to
Avisibba, or Aveysheba, a settlement of five large
villages, two of which were situate on the upper side of
Ruku CVeek.

The river column was the first to occupy the villages
above the Ruku. A fine open stieet ran between two
rows of low huts, each hut surrounded by its tall
palisades. There was a })romising abundance in the
plantain groves about. The untouched forest bey<md
looked tall, thick, and oM. Fr<mi the mouth of
the creek to the extremity of the villages there was a
hundred yards' thickness of primeval forest, through
which a native path ran. Between the village and the
Aruwimi was a belt of timber fifty yards wide. While

Alii;. S.
L'turi.

vmwi

174

IX I>Aln\'/:sT AFUK'A.

If!

Au^. l.p.
Avisibljii.

tlic tc'ri'laLiV was pnjiiivssiiiu' across the creek, the hoat-
crew was .Nean-liiiii;' eauerly and <*aret"iilly ani<)n<;' the
scoi'cs of courts tor hi(hlen savages, and with liHes pn)-
je(rting l)etore them were Imrrowing into the phintaiii
groves, an<l oiitsi<U' tlie viUages.

When the colnnin was across I ha<l a murder case to
iin|uire into, r or on the I'Jth.at Kngwe<hh'', (me of (mu
Zanziliaris had Iteen killed with a riHe Imllet outside of
cani[>. and it was su|)[)osed that s<mie vengeful rutHan
ill the column liad shot him. Meantime, I liad
suggested to two head men to take fortv seout.s
and re-cross the creek, to exohjie if th

here were any

4id«iii< !■ I fac

>
2

•y.

LEAF-BLADED I'AUULE OF AVISIBIIA.

! ! i

Opportunities for foraging on the next (hiy to the south-
west (►f the creek. My little court had just sat down
for the iiKjuiry, and a witness was relating his evidence,
when the rifles were heard firing with unusual energy.
Lieutenant Stairs mustered some fifty men, and pro-
ceeded on the •loul>le-(piick to the river. Under the
impression that ninety lueech-loaders were quite sutticient
we resumed the investigation, hut as volley after volley
rang out, with continued cracking of scouts' rifles, the
Doctor, Nelson, and mvself hastened to the scene
with a few more men. The first person I saw was

F|fl"

■1 1

' ' 1 ?

i .

1 {

i.iHVT. sTAins ]\orM>/:n nv a /'o/,soa'A7> Miinnv. 177
Ijioiitonaiit Stairs, with iiis siiiit torn (H)on, and Idood

itrt'aniin

cr fr(»I

n an ariow-w

ound in the left l)reast.

altout the re;jji(>n ot" the heart, aiid I heard n patter-
in<r on tlie leaves around nie, and caii^lit a <;lini{>se
of arrows Hying past. After ('onsi^nino- our poor friend
to I'arke's cure 1 sou<^ht for information. There were
numbers of men erouciiin*;" al»out, and tirinj^ in the
most senseless fashion at s(mie suspicious })ushes across
the creek. There were certainly obstinate savages
hidilen behind them, hut I failed to get a glimpse of one.
The creek I soon found lay between us. 1 was told that
as the boat was crossing the creek a body of natives had
suddenly issued (m the other side and shot their arrows
into them ; that surprised by the discharge they had
crouched in thebottcmi of the boat to escape the arrows,
and had paddled the boat back to the landing-i)hice
with their nands. They had then picked up their rifles
and l)hized away at them. Simultaneously Lieutemmt
Stairs had rushed in among them and fired at the
enemy, who were of a l)()lder kind than any they had
yet met. In a short time he liad received an arrow in
the breast, which he had torn off while retreating, and

f?'

VOL. I.

1MM7.

Avi8il)l),i.

five other men had been punctured. Almost as soon as
I had finished receiving these particulars, I saw for the
first time a dark sha(h)W creep along the ground ])etween
two l>ushes, and fired into the centre of it, and a
curiously weird wail responded to it. Two minutes
later the arrows had ceased their patter among the
leaves. Having posted a strong guard of the best shots
along the bank to oljserve any movement on the opposite
bank of the creek, the rest of the people were with(h"awn.

In the evening some scouts that had searched in the
woods irdand returned with a flock of seven goats. They
had discovered the crossing-place, and had suddenly
opened fire on a small column going either to the assist-
ance of the enemy or coming from their direction.

On the 1 4th, at dawn, pushed over the creek two
companies to hunt up the enemy that had done us su(di
(himage ; a company was also sent, under C*aptain Nelson,
to the forest inhmd. In a few minutes we heard a vcjlley,

i;- .

!:£

178

JN DA UK EST Ab'UK'A.

IHR7 \\x\(\ a socond, luid tlicn iiiccssfint ritlo fire, sliowinn-
Ai.ir. 14. j^iijjj. j-jn. (.n,.„)v wciv of a rcsdliitc cliaractcr.

Avisibbn.

TIlClC WCl'C

Mj
mI

some cracU shots in No. I Coiiipany. l»iit it was .scarci'ly
[)ossil>l(.' todoiiiurli damage in a tliirk Imsh against a crafty
eiicniv, wlio kiK'W tliat tliev |)os.s(»sstMl most daiiucious
weapons, and wlio were i<^noiant of tlic deadly force ot
tlie pellets that searched the hushes. Ahoiit :iO() rounds
ha<l been fired, and silence followed. Koui- only of these
liad heen fatal, and our party reccMved four wounds fioni
ai'rows smeared over freshly with a copal-coloured suh-
stance. One dead body was hrouu'ht to me for examin-
ation. The head had a crop
of lonii' hair handed hv a
kind of coronet of iron ; the
neck had a strin^i"' of iron
»li()ps, with a few monkey
teeth anion*;' tliem. The
teeth were filed into points.
The distin<>uishin<>' mark of
the body appears to form
double rows of tiny cicatrices
across the chest and abdomen.
The ])ody was uncircumcised.
Another dead bodv brou<j^ht
to the landing-place had a
necklace of human teeth, and
a coronet of sliinin^- plated
iron, and the f(jreliead and
several wristlets (^f the same
metal, polished ; on the left arm was the thick pad of
silk cotton covered with goat skin, to protect the arm
from the bow string.

After the natives had been chased away on all sides
from the vicinity, the people commenced to forage, and
succeeded in bringing to Avisibba during the day
sutiicent plantains to give eighty per man — four days'
rations.

Lieutenant Stairs' wound was one-fifth of an inch in
diameter, an inch and a quarter below the heart, and
the pointed head of the arrow had penetrated an inch

A IIKAU-llIiKsSS OF AVISIUBA
WAHltlOHS.

t\ \

TIIE ro/SOXKI) AJiKOW'S.

I ()

fAvnii''
(' well'
■jiiccly
crafty
ocroiis
nee ot
n)iin«ls
f tlK'se
Is from
m1 sul)-
xiiiniu-
a croi)

1)V a
n ; the
if iron
noiikey
The
points,
lark of
1) f(>rm
catrices
(htiiien.
nu'ised.
)rou<2;ht

had a
th, and

phited
ad and
le same

pad of
he arm

all sides
»o;e, and
he day
ir days'

inch in
art, and
an inch

time was to inject water in the wounds and cleanse tlieni.
The "old hands" of tlie Zanziharis athnned it was poison
extracted from the India rul)))er ( Laiuh>lphia) l>y ItoiHiin' ;
that the scum after sutticient h(tiling formed the i)oisoii.

CORONETEI) AVISimtA WAI{I!I<>I{— IIKAD-IIRKSS.

A native declared that it was made of a species of arum,
which, after being hruised, was hoiled ; that the water
was then poured out into another pot, and boiled again
until it had left a strong solution, which was mixed with
fat, and this was the substance on the arrows. The
odour was acrid, with a suspicion of asafoetida. The men
proved its deadly properties by remarking that elephants
and all big game were killed bv it. All these stories
caused us to be very anxious, but our ignorance was
excessive, I admit. We could onlv look on with wonder
at the small punctures on the arms, and express our

Aiii:. 1 ».
Avi>ibba.

and a half deep. The other men were wouiide(l ,n the imht
wrists, arms, and one in the Hesliy j»art of the liack. At
this perictd we did lutt know what this sti-aiige copal-
coloured substance was with which the points had been
smeared, nor ditl we know what were its jx'culiar etlects
lien drv or wet ; all that the I )octor could do at this

?ti{

180

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

It '

: *H

■J

1 1

\ ';

18H7.
Aug. 14.

Avisibba.

Opinion tliut siicli small wounds could not be deadly, and
hope, tor the sake of our friend Stairs and our nine
wounded men. that all this was mere exaggeration.

The arrows were very slender, made of a dark wood,
twenty-four inches long, points hardene<l by slow baking
in the warm atmosphere al)ove the hut tires ; at the butt
end was a slit, in which a leaf was introduced to guide
the flight ; the sharp points were as sharp as needles,
and half an inch from the point began a curving line of
notches for about two inches. The arrow heads were
then placed in the prepared and viscid substance, with
which they were smeared ; large leaves were then rolled
round a sheaf before they were placed in the (|uiver.
Another substance was pitch black in colour, and appeared
more like Stockholm tar when fresh, but had a very
disagreeal)le smell. In a (juiver there would be nearly
a hundred arrows. When we observed the care taken
of these arrow\s, rolled up in green leaves as they were,
our anxiety for our people was not lessened.

The bow is of stubborn hard brown wood, about three
feet long ; the string is a broad strip of rattan carefully
polished. To experiment with their power I drcjve one
of the wooden arrcjws, at *six feet distance, through two
sides of an empty biscuit tin. At 200 yards' distance
was a tall tree. I drove an arrow, with full forcte, over
the top of the highest branch and beyond the tree. It
dawned on us all then that these wooden arrows were
not the ccmtemptible things we had imagined. At a
short distance we judged, from what we saw, that the
stiff spring of this little bow was sufficient to drive one
of these slender arrows clean through ahumanl)ody. At
120 paces I have been able to !iiiss a bird within an inch
with one of them.

At noon on the 15th of August the land column filed
out of the palisaded vibages of Avisibba led 1)y Mr.
Jephson, the officer of the day. As a captive had
informed us that there were three cataracts ahead not
far off, I instructed Mr. .Ie[)hson that he must follow
the river and halt at the first convenient spot about
2. -10 P.M. ; that I would halt the river column, now

. f:

y, and
• nine

wood,
)aking
ie])utt

iiuide
eedles,
line of
s were
B, with
. replied
ijuiver.
ipetired
a very

nearly
! taken
Y were,

it three
irefully
ve one
gli two
listance
;e, over
ee. It
vs were
At a
i;it the
ive one
y. At
m inch

mn filed

l,y .Mr.

ve had

3ad not

al)out

■in, now

■WnODKN ARnOWS OP THf; AVISIBHA,

182

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

ii I

1HS7.
Aug. 1">.

Avisibbii.

iM 'i

!■!

1 i
i '■

!
i

' i

^^:

1 l

consisting of tlie hoat and fourteen canoes, until the
rear guard under Captain Nelson had (juite left the
settlement ; but as the canoes would proceed faster
than the land (caravan, [ would pro1)a))ly overtake him,
and camp at the first lit place I could find after an
hour's row, in which event he would proceed until he
found us. Tlie instructions were also repeated to the
leading men of tlie pioneers.

i ought to have stated that our start at noon was
occasioned by the delay caused ])y the discovery at the
morning muster that five men were al)sent. They ulti-
mately turned up at 1 o'clock ; but this perpetual
straying away without leave was most exasperating,
and had drawn a lecture from me, though this was n(jt
uncommon in those stupid early days of training.

The Zanzibaris persisted in exhilnting an indifference
to danger absolutely startling, n t from bravery, or
from ignorance of fear, but from an utter incapacity to
remember that danger existed, and from a stupid un-
consciousness as to how it affected them. Animals are
indel)ted to instinct as a constant monitor aoainst
(lan«>er, ])ut these men appeared to possess neither
instinct nor reason, neither perception nor memory.
Their heads were uncommonly empty. The most urgent
entreaties to beware of hidden foes, and the most dread-
ful threats of punishment failed to impress on their
minds the necessity they were under of l^eing prudent,
wary, and alert to avoid the skewers in the path, the
lurking cannibal Ijehind the plantain stalk, the cunning
foe lying under a log, or behind a buttress, and the
sunken pit, with its pointed pales at the l)ottom. When
the danger fronted them it found them all unprepared.
A sudden shower of arrows sent them howling al)jectly
out of reach or under shelter ; and if the arrows were
only followed by a resolute advance, resistance, by reason
of excess of terror, would be impossil)le. An unexpected
show of dauntlessness in a native compelled from them
a ready rectognition of his courage. On the road tliey
sneaked into tiie woods to avoid the rear guard, l)ut Hew
scteaming with terror if a prowling savage suddenly

THE FORAGING OF THE ZANZIBARJS.

183

^jii

rose })efore them with uplifted spear. They roved fur
singly or by twos amongst the villages, as looting was dear
to their hearts ; but should thev meet the wild owners of
them they were more apt to throw the deadly rifle down
on the ground than to use it. They strayed through the
plantain grove with magnificent unconcern, l)ut if they
heard the whiz of an arrow they ciollapsed nervelessly
and submitted to their fate. With an astoundint); con-
fidence they scattered along the road, and stretched the
line of the column to 3 miles in length, l^ut at sight of
natives all sense was lost save that of cowardly fear.
Out of 370 men at this time in the camp there were
clearly 250 of this description, to whom rifles were of
no use save as a clumsy, weighty club, which they
would part with for a few ears of corn, or would willingly
exchange for a light walking staff if they dared.

The day previcjus the Zanzibari head men, urged by
their friends, had appeared before me in a body, and
demanded to be despatched to forage without any
officers, as the officers, they said, bored them with their
perpetual orders of " Fall in, fall in." " Why," said they,
" who can gather bananas if they are continually '.matched
and told to ' Fall in, fall in ? ' "

" Very true," said I, " the tiling is impossi])le. Let
me see what you can do by yourselves. The banana plan-
tations are but a quarter o{ an hour's distance. I shall
expect you all back within an hour."

After such an exposition of character as the above it
will not be wondered, that, each man having cleared
from my presence, forgot all his promises, and wandered
according to his wont. A fl<jck of sheep or a herd of
swine could not have gone further astray. After fourteen
hours' absence the 200 foragers liad returned save five.
These five had departed no one knew where until 10 a.m.
of this day.

Ah, those early davs ! Worse were to come, and
then, having ])ecome purified ])y suffering, and taught
hy awful experience, they l)ecame Romans !

But to return to Jephson. We pulled up stream— after
seeing that every one was clear of the settlement of

1887.
Aug. 15.

Avisibba.

■■—t. :J._rf!S_

184

JN DARKEST AFRICA.

If ;

J
I •

i !

■•I

1887.

Au£f. \ri.

Avisibba.

I \>\

Avi.sil)l)a — at the rate of a knot and a half an liour. and
at 2.45, havinu!' discovered a convenient camp, lialted for
tlie nic^ht. We waited in vain for Mr. Je})hson. and tlie
column fired sio-nal yuns, rowed out into the sti'eam. and
with a glass searched the shore up and down, hut there
was no sio;n of camp-fire, or smoke above the woods,
which ijenerallv covered the forest as with a foi»' in still
weather, no sound of rifle-shot, blare of trumpet, or
human voice. The caravan, we thought, nnist have
found a fine track, and proceeded to the cataracts aliead.

On the Ifitli the river column pulled iiard up stream,
passed Mabeiigu villages, came up to a deep ])ut narrow
creek Mowing fnmi the south bank into the Xevva,as the
Aruwimi was now called, h)oked anxiously up stream, and
an hour later we had reached the foot of Mal)engu Rapids.
On the right bank, opposite to where we selected a
camping-place, was a hu'ge settlement — that of Itiri.
Then, having as yet, met no traces of the absent column,
I sent boat's crew up the creek to search for traces
of fording. After ascending several miles up the creek,
the boat's crew returned unsuccessful ; then 1 despatched
it back again to within half-an-hour's distance of
Avisib])a, and at midnight the boat returned to announce
their failure to find any traces of the niissing.

On the 17th the boat's crew, with "Three O'clock,"
the hunter (Saat Tato), and six scouts, were sent to our
camping-place of the 15th, with orders for the hunter
and his six scouts to follow the path observed there —
inland — until they had struck the trail of the column,
then to follow the trail and overtake them, and return
with them to the river. On the boat's return, the
coxswain informed me that they had seen the trail
about 7 miles (8 hours' march). I concluded that
Mr. Jephsoji had led his column south, instead of
E. by N. and E. N. E., according to course of river, and
that Saat Tato would overtake them, and return next

Our condition at the river camp was this. We had
thirty-nine canoemen and boatmen, twenty-eight sick
people, three Europeans, a. id three boys, and one of the

r. and
ed for
lid the
11. and
: there
sv(hh1s,
in still
)et, or
have
ahea<l.
aream,
narrow
, as the
mi, and
Rapids.
}cted a
)f Itiri.
•olumn,
■ traces
e creek,
matched
nee of
inounce

•lock,"
to our
hunter
:here —
•olumn,
return
irn. the
le trail
h1 that
:ea(l of
rer. and
•n next

We had

• ht sick
e of the

i^^s'r

OUR CONDJTJUX AT MABENGU BAPIDS.

i«;

Europeans (Lieutenant Stairs) was suffering' from a dan-
gerous wound, and recjuired the constant care of the sur-
geon. One man had died of dysentery at Avisi})])a. We
liad a dying idiot in eamp, who had become idiotic some
days before. We had twenty-nine suffering from pleurisy,
dysentery, incura])le debiUty, and eiglit suffering from
wounds. One called Khalfan was half strangled with
the wound in his windpipe, another called 8aadi, wounded
in the arm, appeared dangerously ill, his arm was
swollen, and gave him great pain. Out of the thirty-
nine available I had despatched three separate paities
in difi'erent directions to scout for news of the missing
column, lest it was striking across some great bend to
reach the river a long distance higher up, while we, una])le
to stir, were on the other side of the curve. Across the
river the people of Itiri, perceiving we were so (juiet on
our side of the river, seemed to be meditating an attack,
and only two miles below on our bank was the large
settlement of Maljengu, from whose inhabitants we
might hear at any moment, while our little force of
thirty-nine men, scattered in various directions, were
searching for the missing 300. But the poet said that

it became

" No man to nurse despair ;
But in the teeth of clenclied antagonisms
To follow the worthiest till he die."

1«87.
Aii^. 17.

Itiri.

!>iM

ill

I quote from my diary of August 18th.

The idiot fell asleep last night. His troubles are
over, and we have buried him,

I wonder if Tennyson were here, who wrote such
noble lines, what he would think of our state. A few
days ago I was chief of 370 men, rich in goods, muniti(jns
of war, medicines, and contented with such poor ccmi-
forts as we had, and to-dtiy I have actually only eighteen
men left fit for a day's march, the rest have vanished.
I should be glad to know where.

If 389 picked men, such as we were when we left
Yambuya, are unable to reach Lake Albert, how can
Major Barttelot with 250 men make his way through
this endless forest. We have travelled, on an average,

I"' w

188

IN DAliKEtiT AFlilL'A.

ISH7.
Aug. IS.

Itirt.

1 I

8 hours per (Liy for foitv'tour Jays since lejivinji; Yani-
•huya. At two miles per liour we ouglit, by this (Lite,
to liave arrived on tlie Lake sliore, l)ut, instead of
heino- tliere. we have accomplished just a tliii'd of tie
distance. The poet .says we must not " nurse despair,',
for to do tliat is to lie <lo\\n and die, to make no eti'ort,
and abandon hope.

Our wounded take considerable time to heal. The
swelling is increasing, the wounds are most painful, not
one has yet proved tatal, Imt they are all quite incapa-
citated from <luty.

The fifth rain of this month began at 8 a.m. Had we
not enough atHictions without this perpetual rain ? One
is almost tempted to think that the end is approach-
ing. The very " Hood gates of heaven " seem opened,
and nature is dissolving. Such a })ody of rain is
falling that the view of all above is obscured by the
amazing fall of rain -drops. Think of the countless
numbers of leaves in this forest, and that every leaf
drops ten to twenty times per minute, and tliat from the
soaking ground rises a grey cloud of minute rain in
vapour, and that tlie air is full of floating globules of
water and fivinii" shreds of leaves ! And add to all this
the intense fall of rain as the blast comes bearing down
the top, and whips drowning showers on us, and sways
the countless branches, and rushes wailing through the
glades with such force, as though it Wouhl wrench the
groaning trees out of the earth. The moaning and
groaning of the forest is far from comforting, and the
crashing and fall of mighty trees is far from assuring,
but it is a positive terror when the thunder rumbles
above, and its sounds reverberatins*- throu^'h the
aisles and crooked corri(h)rs of tlie forest, and the
blazino; lightnino' darts spitefullv hither and thither its
forky tongues and sheets of fiame, and explodes over our
lieads with overwhelming and deafening shocks. It would
be a nist relief for our sick and wounded to be free of
such sounds. \\\ European ])attle has no such variety.
And tlirouii'hout the dav this has continued unceasinoly.
It is now about the tenth hour of the lay. It is scarcely

PEitrf'rnwL itA/x ix the forest.

189

possi1)le (liiylig'.it will ever appear again, at least so 1
judge from the liunian faces steeped in misery. Tiieir
owners appear stupeiied by terror, woe, sickness, loss of
friends, hunger, rain and thunder, and general wretched-
ness. They may be seen crouching under plantain-
leaf sheds, native shields, cotton shelters, straw mats,
earthen and copper pots above their heads, even saddles,
tent canvass covers, blankets, each body wreathed in
blue vapour, self-absorbed with speechless anguish. The
poor a ^es with their ears drawn back, inverted eyes
and curving backs, captive fowls with drooping crests
represent abject discomfort. Alas ! the glory of this
earth is (juite extinguished. When she finally recovered
her beauty, and lier children assumed their proud
bearinijr, and the "rowino; lakes a!id increasin<ij rivers
were dried up, and how out of chaos the sun rose
to comfort the world again I know not. My own
feeling of misery had so exhausted me that a long sleep
wrapped me in merciful oblivion.

Aur/ust I9th. — Still w-ithout news of land caravan.
The scouts have returned without having seen any
traces of the missing. Two of the wounded men are
doing very badly. Their sufterings appear to be
terrible.

Au(/ust 20th. — Still without news of caravan. Young
Saadi wounded by a poisoned arrow on the morning of
the 14th, is attacked with tetanus, and is in a very
dangerous condition. Wherefore I take it to be a
vegetable poison. Khalfan's neck and spine have become
rigid, I have given both morphine by injection, hut
the doses though doul)le, tiuit ir: in half grains, do not
appear to ease the sufierc-rs much. Stairs is just the
same as yesterday, neitJier worse nor better. The wound
is painful, stil! he has appetite, and enjoys sleep, I fear
the effect on him of knowing what the other patients are
underooino'.

It is strange that out of 300 people and .'3 officers, not
one has sense enough to know that he has lost the road,
and that the best way of recovering it would be to
retrace their steps to Avisibba and try again.

1887,
Ausj. 18.

Itiri,

it:

I, i:

190

IN DARKEST AFRICA,

1MH7.
Aug. 21.

Itiri.

iiii

! ; ,

1 !

Afft/ffsf 2\sf. — Poor Klialfaii woiindod in the windpipe
on the lOtli instant, und the yonn<jj feUow Saudi luut on
the niornino; of the 14fl' • hoth died in tlie ni,<:;ht, after
intolerable ao;onies — i 4 a.m., Saadi ahont midnight.

Khalfan's wound was cjiused l»y a poisoned arrow ; hut
the poison must have been laitl on the arrow some days
before it was used. He had been daily getting weaker
from Hl)stinence from food, bectause of pain. The wound
did not seem dangerous ; it had closed up, externally,
and there were no signs of intiammation ; but the poor
fellow complained he could not swallow. He had sub-
sisted on li([uid food made of plaintain flour gruel. On
the 8th day his neck became rigid and ctnitracted ; he
could not articulate, but murmur ; the head was inclined
forward, the alxhmien was shrunk, and on his face
lines of pain and anxiety became fixed. Yesterday he
had some slight spasms. I gave two injections of
half a grain hypodermically, which relieved him for an
hour, but, not much accustcmied to treat patients with
morphia, I feared giving larger doses. Saadi was
punctured on the right forearm, midway between wrist
and elbow — a mere wound, such as a coarse stocking
needle would have made. The wound was sucked by a
comrade ; it was syringed with warm water and dressed,
but on the moviing of the fourth day he was attacked
with tetanus of so severe a kind that his case was hope-
less from our sheer inability to relieve him from the
frightful spasms. Morphia injections rendered him
slightly somnolent ; but the spasms continued, and
Saadi died on the 111th hour after receiving the wound.
I am inclined to think that the arrow was smeared for
the fight of the 1 4th the night previous.

A third man died of dysentery before noon, making
the fourth death in this camp.

At 5 P.M. the caravan arrived,
been great from mental distress. There have been three
deaths also in the land column. Maruf, punctured in
shoulder, died of tetanus on the night of the 19th, 24
hours earlier than Saadi. This may have been due to
the travel accelerating the action of the poison.

Its sufferings have

Mi < r

II V|.,j

J' '-^4!

SUFFElilSaS OF MKMliEUS OF THE CAltAVAN. 191

One man n.iintMl AH was shot by an in)n-l)ail)LMl
arrow, and (lie<l of internal Inumorrlia^e, the arrow
having pierced the liver. Another succundted to
dvsentery ininiediatelv after the heavy rain which had
atHicted us on the 1 8th ; thus we have had seven fatal
cases since the 1 4th. We have several others, in whom
life is flickering. The column brought in two others
wounded bv arrows. The wounds are much inflamed,
and exude a gangrenous matter.

Lieut. Stairs still appears hearty, and appears as
though he was recovering, despite the influence these
many deaths might have on his nerves. The surgeon
having appeared, I feel an intense relief. I hate to see
pain, and take no delight in sick men's groans. I feel
pleasure in ministering to their needs only when con-
scious I can cure.

We have now a})out 373 in camp, but GO of them
appear fitter for a hospital than to continue our wander-
ing life ; but in this savage region not even rest and
food can be secured for the weary souls.

A few more davs (^f this disheartening work, attend-
ing on the sick, looking at the agonies of men dying
from lockjaw, listening to their muffled screams, o})serv-
ing general distress and despondency, from hunger, and
the sad anxiety caused by the unaccountable absence of
their brothers and comrades, with the loss of 300 men
impending over me must have exercised a malign influence
over myself. I am conscious of the insidious advance of
despair towards me. Our food has been })ananas or
plantains, boiled or fried, our other provisions being re-
served for perhaps an extreme occasion which may present
itself in the near future. The dearest passion of my life
has been, I think, to succeed in my undertakings ; but
the last few days have begun to fill me with a doubt of
success in the present one.

What the feelings of the officers have been I have not
heard yet ; but the men have frankly confessed that
they have been delivered from a hell.

The following note has just been placed in my
hands : —

1H«7.
Auu. .'I.

Itiri.

192

7.V DAUKEST AFUJCA.

" A»,,nsf 1887.

1HS7. " DwirSiu,

•^"^'- "'• "Sunt Tato rcaclii'd us n\ o p.m. yi'stonlay with ynir nr Icr to

'^'"■i- follow him. Wo ut onoo rccrnpsi'd tlic river (tho crook which tlic luiat's

crew had searchoil) and hojn- to reach you to-nij-dit. I can understood

how i^'rcat your aiixicty nuist havi' licrn, and deeply regret having;

caused it.

" 1 liave the lioiionr to he,

"Ac, iVc, ttc.
"A. M. Jei'Hson."

On the 2211(1 we moved caiiip to the foot of the
highest Ala))eii,L'u Ivupids, and on the foUowing day pro-
ceeded al)ove tlie ra})ids.

I then took the op})oi'tuiiiiy of miisteiinjj; the people.
The foUowiim' returns tell their own tale : —

.l-ultliy.

Sick.

Kittd.

Li ails.

Company No. 1 .

. SM

Captain Stairs, No.

2 .

. Gil

Ca])tain Nelson, No

H .

. 07

Captain Jephson, N

o. -1

. 08

Europeans .

Boys .

. 12

Soudanese .

. 10

Somalis

Cooks .

. 2

Donkey boy.

Sick .

. 57
373

Dead .

. 10

389

i:.

The experiences of the column during its wanderings
appeared to contirm me in my impressions that the
Aruwimi in this region of rapids was not so much
utilized l)v the natives as it was l)elow. Lai'o'e settle-
nieiits had been discovered inland ; the scouts had
traversed the forest l»v several well-trodden tracks
which led from the river to the interior. The river
banks were not so populous, the settlements were now
generally a little way inland, and along the river bank
was a perceptible path which materially assisted us.
Ever since leaving Utiri we had noted this fact. On the
24tli we travelled a few miles, and camped below Avu-
gadu Rapids, near a rich plantain grove, and the next

"ti^t

HIE x/:r<U\() nivEii.

108

(lav passe*] the ra[)i(ls and toiincMl a coiutortalilc camp in iHSfi.
a sonu'wiiat open p())"ti(»n of tlic forest, liamited l»y ^"t?- '*''•
tisliennen. On the "JOtli the cohiinii on land swunn' u'jjr'l.r.''
aloiin' at a ^ood rate, while we had a loiiu' sti'ctcli of uii-
distmhed river, and had to pull liai'd to keep jiaee with
them until hoth columns met in one of the lai'i;'est
villages of the Avejeli ti'ihe estalilished in fiont of the
Xepoko mouth.

This latter river, of which 1 )i'. Junker was the first to
iid'oi'm us. and which he had ciossed fai' up, tundiled
into the Aruwinii. now ca'led the Itiri. I>v a series of

cascades, over reefs of shaly rock, from an altitu<le of
40 feet. The mouth was about .SCO vards wide, narrow-
ing to about 250 yards above tlie cascade. The natives
had staked a considera]>]e distance of the reef, to wdiich
to attacli their lari^e funnel-shaped })askets for the
recepti(jn of the fish kvashed down the rapids. The
cohnir of the Nepoko was of chocolate, that of the Itiri
was of tea and milk.

Plad I known that one week later 1 shouhl have
encountered Arabs, and their desperate bands of j\Ian-
yuem;\, there is no doubt that 1 should have en-
voi.. I. N

i.i.:

1^j4

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Kopoko
Kiver.

|} I

1887. (leavoured to put u de^TGe of latitude between the
Aug. 2(,. (.gn^j.(j ,,f tlieir influence and our route. Even as it
was, I mentally debated a change of route, from some
remarks made to me by Binza (Dr. Junker's Monbuttu
boy), who suggested that it were better to travel through
lands inhal)ited by "decent men," to such a horrid
region infested by peoples who did not deserve the name
of men applied to them, and that the ^lomvu tribes
were sure of according a welcome to those who could
show in return that they appreciated hospitalitv. Binza
was most enticing in his descriptions of the M(mivu
nation. But food with the Avejeli was alaindant and
various, and we hoped that a change had come over the
land. For ever since we had observed a ditlerence in
the architecture of the native dwellings, we bad observed
a change for the better in the diet of the people. Below
Panga Falls the aborigines principally subsisted on
manioc, and on the dift'erent breads, puddings, cakes,
and porridges to which they c(jnverted these tubers. It
will not be forgotten, perhaps, that tapi(jca is made
out of manioc or cassava. But above Panoa Falls
manioc had been gradually replaced by plantain groves
and the })lantain is a nnich more excellent edible than
manioc for an expedition, and the groves had been
clearly growing into higher importance, therefore we
hoped that happier days were in store for us. There
were also fields of Indian corn, manioc, yams, and colo-
cassia, plots of tobacco for the smokers, and to our great
joy we came across many fowls. A halt was ordered
that the sorely-tried people might recu})erate.

In tlieir very excusaltle eagerness for meat the Zanzi-
baris and Scmdanese were very reckless. No sooner was
a fowl siglite(l than there was a general scramble for it ;
some reckless fellows used their rifles to shoot the
chickens, and many a cartridge was ex})ended uselessly
for which due |)unishment was frequently awarded, 'i'he
orders were most positive that no ammunition was to
be wasted, and the efforts made to detect all breaches of
uhese orders were most energetic, but when did a Zanzi-
bar! oltey orders when away from his employer's eye ?

«,!;» V.I

1 the

as it

some
ilmttu
irou.uli
horrid

name

tril )es

couhl

Binza
lomvu
lit and
vev the
mce in
)serve<l

Below
ted on

eakes,
jrs. It
s made
a Falls

oroves
ie than

1 l)een
fore we
There

(1 colo-

u' uieat
ordered

Zanzi-
Inei- was
I? tor it ;

loot the
iselesslv
Id. The

WMS to

aches of

li Zanzi-

's eye?

RECKLESSXESS OF ZANZIIiAIil!^ AND SOCDAXESE. 195

The indiscriminate shootino- of this dav resulted in the
shooting of one of the brave hand of hard-working-
pioneers. A hnllet from a Winchester struck him in the
foot, the bones of which were pulverized and its amputa-
tion became imperative. Suroeon Parke performed the
operation in a most skilful and expeditious manner, and
as the oood suroeon was most resolute when '" one of his
cases " re(juired care — this unfortunate * }'<»uni; man had
to be lifted in and out hv ei^ht men, must nee<ls have
the largest share of a canoe that nothing might otlend
the tender wound, and of necessity reipiiredand received
the most bounteous supply of the best food and to have
servants to wait u})on him — in shcnt, such a share of
o;ood thino-s and readv services that 1 often envied him,
and thought that for a sixpence in addition I would not
mind exchanging places with him.

Of course another severe lecture followed, and there
were loud protestations that they would all pay implicit
attention in the future, and of course before the next
day every promise was forgotten. There is nmcli to be
said for these successive breaches of promise. They
relieve the mind from vast care and all sense of respon-
sibility. No restraint burdens it, and an easy gladness
brightens the face. Why should a man, being an animal,
continually fetter himself with obligations as though he
were a moral beiu"' to be held accountal)le for CNcrv idle
word uttered in a gushing moment ?

On the 28th the river colunui consisting now of the
Adi'thici' steel boat and sixteen canoes, pushed uj) river
to a camp five miles above Avejeli. The land })aity was
left far behind, for they were struggling through a series
of streams and creeks, and buried in «lepths of sutlb-
catingly close bush, and did not arrive until the next
day at noon, when thev were urged to proceed about
two hours highei', whither we followed them.

We arrived at the foot of a big cataract on the 80th,

* Was he very unfortuiiato ? I paid Upirrowwix for tliirtooii months'
hiiiU'd, sent liim to Stank-y Falls, thcnro down the Coup) and l>y sea to
Madeira, n'u tlie C'1|k> to Zanziltar, whero ho arrived iu a statu well
described hy " as fat as butter."

1887.
Aug. 20.

Nepoko
Kiver.

■i''
^1'/'

196

7.V BARKE^T AFlllCA.

1887 and by o})serv;iti<)ii ascertained that we had reached
An-, w. jij^if^vay to the Albert Lake, Kavalli l)ein<,^ in 30^ 30' and
Rn-ei ' Yanibuva in "Jo" 85'. Uur camp on this day was in about
27'^ 47':

We liad 1();3 geofj;raplii<'al miles in an air line to make
yet, which we could never accomplish within G4 days as
we had performed the western half of the route. The
people were in an impoverished state of l)ody, and
mentally depressed, ulcers were ragin<4' like an epidemic,
anfiemia had sapped their vitality. They were told the
half-way camp was reached, but they replied with
murmurs of unl)elief. They asked, " How can the master
tell ? Will that instrument show him the road i Will
it tell him which is the path i Why does it not tell us,
then, that we may see and believe ? J)on't the natives
know their own country better '. Which of them has
seen orass ? Do tliev not all sav that all the world is
covered with trees and thick bush { I'ali — the master
talks to us as though we were children and had no
pro[)er perception.'

The morning of the evil (kite, August 31st, dawned as
o\\ other days. It struggled through dense clouds of
mist, and finally about *J o'clock the sun appeared, pale,
indistinct, u mere circle of lustreless light. But in the
meantime we were hard at our fre([uent task of cutting a
broad highway through the bush and forest, through
which the boat c<)uld be carried bodily by (50 men,
standing underneath ; the crew of the flotilla were
wrestling with the mad waters, and shoving their
vessels up steep slopes of a racing river.

The highway was finished in an hour, and a temporary
camp was located ai>ove. The canoes began to arrive.
I left the Doctor to superintend the pioneers bearing the
boat, but he presently returned to report that the boat
c()uld not be lifted. I retraced my steps to oversee the
operation personally. I had succeeded in conveying it
lialf way when my European servant came running at a
mad pace, crying out as he ran : " Sir, oh, sir, Eniin
Pasha has arrived."

" Emin Pasha ! "

n 1 -1.^

■cached
]0' and
:i ab(jut

o make
days as^
I. "The
ly, and
)ideniic,
tohl the
!(! wirh
3 master
? Will
; tell us,

natives
hem has
world is
e master

had no

iwned as
louds of
1, pale,
in the
nttino' a,
hi'ouuh
men,
a were
iin' their

mporary
;) arrive,
irino- the
tlie l)oat
irsee the
reying' it
ling at a
r, Eniin

e(
1

-J
i

I '5. '

■ t

i
\

■i,,ii

MANiTEMA MISTAKEN FOR EMTN A.\D FOLLOWEnS. 199

" Yes, sir. I liave seen him in a canue. Hisredflao;,
like ours (the Egyptian), is }ioisted up at the stern. It
is quite true, sir ! "

(.)f course we bounded forward ; the boat was dropped
as thouojh it was red liot. A race beujan, master and
man striving for the lead. In the camp the excitement
was also general. It was owing, we soon heard, to the
arrival of nine Manvuema, who served one called Uledi
Balyuz, known to natives })y the name of I'garrowwa,
and who was reported to be settled about eight marches
up river, and commanding several hundred armed
men.

The Arabs were, then, so far inland on tl;e Upper
Aruwimi. and I had flattered myself that I had hoard
the last of these rovers I We were also told tha! here
were fifty of them camped six miles al)ove on their way, by
orders of Ugarrowwa, to explore tlie course of the river, to
ascertain if conmiunication with Stanley Falls could ])G
obtained by the unknown stream on whose banks they
had settled.

We imparted the information they desired, whereupon
they said they would return t(j their camp and prepare
for a hospitable reception on the morrow. The Zanzi-
baris were considerably elated at the news, for wliat
reason may shortly l)e seen.

The first absconder was one Juma, who deserted with
half a Imndredweiolit of biscuit that ni^lit.

On the 1st September, in the early morning, we were
clear of the rapids, and, rowing up in company with the
caravan, were soon up at the village where the Manyuema
were said to be camped. At the gate there was a dead
male child, literally hacked to pieces ; within the pal-
isades was a dead woman, who had been speared. The
jVIanyuema had disa})})eared. It seemed to us then that
some of our men had damped tlieir joy at the encounter
with us, by suggesting that the slaves with them miglit
pi'obably cause in us a revulsion of feeling. Suspicion

of this caused an immediate clianffe in their feelinos.
. . . .

Their fears impelled them to decamp instantly. Tlieir

1887.
Aug. 31.

Nepoko
Kiver.

80C1

ety

was so niu

ch reoretted, however, that five

\^M\

200

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
Sept. 1.

Nepoko
Klver.

Zanzi])uris, taking five loads, four of ammunition and
one of salt, disappeared.

We resumed our journey, and halted at tlie base of
another series of rapids,

Tlie next day Saat Tato, liaving explored tlie i-apids,
reported encouraoiiiojy, and expressed liis confidence
that without much difficulty these couhl also be sur-
mounted. This report stimulated the boatmen to make
ancjther trial. AVhile the river column was busy in its
own peculiar and perilc^us work, a search l)arty was
despatclied to liunt news of the missiuo; men, and
returned with one man, a b(»x of ammunition, and three
rifles. The search party had discovered tlie deserters in
the forest, with a case of annnunition open, which they
were distiibuting. In trying to surround tliem, the
deserters became alarmed and scudded away, leaving
three of tlieir riHes and a case behind them.

On the 3rd of September five more deserted, carrying
away one case of Remington cartridges, one case of
Winchester cartridges, one box of European provisions,
and one load of fine Arab clothing, worth £50. Another
was detected with a box of provisions open before him,
having already abstracted a tin of sago, one tin of
Liel)ig, a tin of l)utter, and one of milk. Ten men had
thus disappeared in a couple of days. At this rate, in
sixty days the Expedition would be ended. I consulted
the chiefs, but I could gain no encouragement to try
what extreme measures would effect. It was patent,
however, to the dullest that we should be driven to
resort to extremities scjon to stop this wholesale desertion
and theft. Since leaving Yambuya we had lost forty-
eight rifles and fifteen cases of Maxim, Winchester, and
Remington ammunition.

The day following four men deserted, and one was
caught in the act of desertion. The ])eople were accord-
ingly mustered, and sixty men, suspected of being
capa))le of desertion, as no head man would guai-antee
their fidelity, were I'endered helpless by abstracting the
mainsprings of the rifles, which we took and locked up.
Demoralisation had set in rapidly sinc/e we had met the

WIJOLESALK DKSEUTIOSlS ASD THEFTS.

201

|)OlvO

1 liver.

Manvuema. Notliinn' was safe in their hands. Boxes is;^?.
liad been opened, cloth had Iteen stolen, heads had heen '""^'i'*- '^
pilfered, ninch amnumition had heen taken ont of the ■"'''"''
eases, and either thrown, or secreted as a reserve, 1»\
the way.

On September 5th we camped near IIil)p<> Broads, so
called because the river was tine and bioad. and a lar^e
herd of hi})po[)otami were seen. The site of our resting
2)lace was an abandone<l clearino-, which had become the
haunts of these ampliibije, and exipiisite bits of ureen-
Bward caused us to imaiiine for a moment that possibly
the open country was not far. Foragers returned after
a visit into the interior, on both banks, with four ^oats
and a few bananas, numbers of roast rats, cooked beetles,
and slu^s. On the (ith we reached a cataract o])posite
the Bafaido settlement, where we obtained a res])ectable
supply of plantains. The day following' we drao«j,ed
our canoes over a platform of rock, over a projecting
ledge of which the river tumbled 10 feet.

From the Bafaido cataract we journeyed along a
curving river to Avakubi l^apids, and forme<l a camj) at
the landing-place. A path led hence into the interior,
which the hungry people soon followed. While scouring
the country for food, a woman and child were found,
who were brought to me to l»e examined. But the
cleverest interpreter was at fault. No one understood a
syllable of the meaningless babble.

Some more rapids were reached the next (hiy. AVe
observed that the oil-palm flourished throughout this
.section.

Palm nuts were seen in heaps near each village. We
even discovered some palms lately planted, which
showed some regard for posterity. Achmet, the Somali,
who had insisted on leavino- Yambuva, in accom-
panying us had l)een a passenger ever since we had
struck the river above Yankon<le', was reported to be
dving. He was said to suffer from melanosis. What-
ever the disease might be, he had bec<)me singubirly
emaciated, being a literal skeleton covered lightly with
skin.

I::

I !

mcimm

1 1

1887.
Sept. 5.

Nepoko
River.

202

7.V DARKEST AFIilCA.

From this camp we rounded n point, 2)a8sed (n^er a
short winding- course of river, and in an hour aj)proached
in view of an awful raging stream choked })y narrow
})an]^s of shale. The outlook Itevond the immediate
foreview was first of a series of rolling wjives \vhirlin<r
and tossed into s])ray, descending in succeeding lines,
and a great fall of about .SO feet, and above that a
steep slope of wild rapids, and the whole capped with
mist, and tearing down tumultuously towards us.

il'

Mill!!

This was appalling consider-
ing the state of the column.
There were about 120 loads
in the canoes, and })etween
fifty and sixty sick and feeble people. To leave these in
the woods to their fate was impossi}>le, to carry the h)ads
and advance appeared ecjually so ; yet to drag the canoes
and bear the. ])oat past such a long stretch of wild
water appeared to be a task beyond our utmost powers.
Leaving the vessels below the falls and rapids, I led
the Expedition by land to the destroyed settlement of
Navabi, situated near a bend of the Itiri (Aruwimi)
above the disturbed stream, where we established a

CAMP AT XAVAnr.

203

camp. The sick drauged themselves after the caravan, i887.
those too feeble and helpless to travel the distance were ^,*^i'*' ^
lifted up and ))orne to the camp. Officers then mustered "*^'* '
the companies for the work of cutting a ))road highway
through the l)ush and hauling the c*anoes. This task
occupied two whole days, while No. 1 Company foraged
far and near to obtain food, but with only partial
success.

Navabi must have been a remarkable instance of
aboriginal prosperity once. It possessed groves of

ATTACKING AN ELEPHANT IN THE ITUUI HIVEU.

the elais and plantain, large plots of tobacco and
Indian corn ; the huts under the palms looked almost
idyllic ; at jeast so we judged from two which were left
standing, ard gave us a bit of an aspect at once tropical,
pretty, and apparently happy. Elsewhere the whole
was desolate. Some parties, which we conjectured be-
longed to Ugarrowwa, had burnt the settlement, chopped
nijiny of the palms down, levelled the banana plantations,
and strewed the ground with the bones of the defenders.
Five skulls of infants were found within our new camp at
Xavabi.

204

7.V DMth'EST AFRWA.

$\^f

1887.
Sept. 12.

Memberri.

On tlio I'ith, as we rciiiincd onv journey, we weri'
('()nipt'll(,'(l to leuve tive men \vli(t were in an un-
conKcious state and dyin^L"'. A<'Innet, the Somali, vvlioni
we liad horiie all the way from Vamhuya, was one
of them.

I^'rom Navahi we proceeded to the laiidinsj,' place of
."\Iemi)erri, which evidenrly was a fiiMjuent haunt of
<'lepliants. ( )ne of these not far off was observed
hatliin^' luxuriously in the river near the rio'ht hank,
ilun^rvfor meat, 1 was urt>ed to ti'v my chance. On
this JvKpedition 1 had armed myself with the E.xpress
rilies of r)77-b(jre, which Indian sportsmen so much
apj)laud. The heavy 8-))ores were with Major J^arttelot
and Mr. Jameson. 1 succeeded in planting six shots in
the animal at a few yards distance, but to no purpose
except to unnecessarily wound liim.

At Memberri we made a muster, and according to
returns our num])ers stood : —

Aujj;ust2^r(l 373 mon..

September l"2tli ..... 343 nieu.

14 deserted and IG deaths ; carriers 235 • loads 227 ; sick 58

i'' !

:i;i'''

Added to these elo(]uent records every member of the
Expedition suffered from hunger, and the higher we as-
cended the means for satisfying the ever-crying w^ant of
food appeared to diminish, for the Bakusu and Basongora
shives, under the Manyuema head men of Ugarrowwa,
had destroyed the plantations, and either driven the
populations to unknown recesses in the forest or had
extirpated them.

On the followino- dav we readied Amiri ^alls. The
previous (hiy the head man, Baadi, had })een reproached
for leaving one named ^hakupete to return ah)ng the
track to search for a box of ammunition that was
reported to ]»e missing, whereupon »Saadi took the
unwise resolution of proceeding to hunt up Makupete'.
Then one, Uledi ]\Janga, disgusted with the severe work
and melancholy prospect before us, absconded with
another box of ammunition.

ll'h' liEACII rGAliliOWWAH STATION.

205

We liad only three Zaii/ihari donkeys left. Out of
the six with which we had started from Vainhuya, one
of the three, prohahly [)ossesst'd with a |>i'esi'iitiiiieiit
that the caravan was doomed, took it into his head that
it WHS l)etter to return hefore it was too late, and
deserted also. Whither he went no one knew. It is
useless to search in the forest for a lost man, donkey,
or ai'ticle. Like the waves divided l>y a sjiip's [)i'ow
unitinjj;' at the stern, so the forest enfolds past tindino;
within its deep shades whatsoever enters, and reveals
nothino".

Near a sin^si'le old fishino- hut our cam[) was pitched
on the 15th. 'i'he river aftei' its immense curve north-
ward and eastward now trended south-easterly, and we
had already reached S. Lat. 1° 24' from V 58'.'

Ilavino- heen in the habit of losino- a hox of ammu-
nition per diem for the last few days, having' ti'ie»l
almost every art of suppressing this rohhery, we now
lia<l recourse to lashino- the ])oxes in series of eights, and
consignino' each to the care of a head man, and holding
liim res[)onsil)le for them. This we hoped would check
the excuse that the men disappeared into the forest
under all kinds of wants.

(hi the intli of September, while halting for the mid-
day rest and lunch, several loud reports of musketry
were heard up-river. I sent 8aat Tato to explore, and
in half-an-hour we heard three riHe-shc^ts announcing
success ; and shortlv after three canoes besides our own
appeared h)aded with men in white (b-esses, and gay
with crimson flags. These came, so they reported, to
welcome us in the name of Ugarrowwa, their chief, who
would visit my evening camp. After exchanging com-
pliments, they returned up-river, firing their muskets
and sinoino- oailv.

At the usual hour we commenced the afternoon march,
and at 4 p.m. were in camp just l)elow Ugarrowwa's
station. At the same time a voW of drums, the l)oom-
ing of many muskets, and a flotilla of canoes, announced
the approach of the Arab leader. About 50 strong,
robust fellows accompanied him, besides singers and

Aniiri

Falls.

1 i,.!

! <j|

!i :i

206

IX TtAliKKsT AFRICA.

1887. wonuMi, every one ot" whom wa.s in prime coiulitioii
S«i'*/.'^- ()flM)(ly.
FiX.' 'i'^^' leader ,u!i\e his name as roan-owwa, tlie Zanzil)ar
term for "■ Lualalta," or native name of " Hnarawwa/'
known formerly as I'ledi l^ialynz (or the Consnls
I ledi). Jlehad aeeompanied Captains Speke and(»i'ant,
I S(I()-.S, as a tent-l)oy. and had l»een left or had de-
sei'ted in L^nvoro. He otfe'-ed as a uift to ns two fat
n<)iits and al)ont 40 lbs. of picked rice, a few ripe
plantains, and fowls,

Upon askin^r him if there was any prospeet of food
Ix'ing' ol)taine(i for the peo})le in the vieinity of his
station, he admitted, to our sorrow, that his followers in
their heedless wav had destroved evervthin<;, that it
was impossil)le to cheek them because they were furious
{lU'ainst the "pagans" for the bloodv retaliation and
excesses the ahoriuines had committed aoainst many
and many of their countrymen during their search for
ivory.

Asked what country we were in, he re})lied that we
were in Bunda, the natives of which were Bahunda ;
that the people on the north bank in the neighlujurhood
of lus station were called Bapai or Bavaiya.

He also said that his raiders had gone eastwai-d a
month's journey, and lu^d seen from a high hill (Kasso-
lolo 0, ii grassy country extending to the eastward.

Further information was to the effect that his caravan,
fiOO strong, had left the Lualaba at Kibonges (above
Leopold K.), and that in nine moons he had travelled the
distance of 370 geographical miles, al)out a N.E. course,
throughout continuous forest without having seen as
much grass as would cover the palm of his hand ; that
he had only crossed one river, the Lindi, before he
sighted the Ituri. as the Aruwimi was now called ; that
he had heard from Aral) traders that the Lulu (Lowwa)
rose from a small lake called the Ozo, where there was
a vast (pumtity of ivory.

Four days higher Ugarrowwa possessed another station
maimed with 100 guns., near the Lenda river, a tribu-
tary of the Aruwimi. which entered it from the south

I7.S77' Tn TIIK A UAH SKTTl.h'MKXT.

207

hank. His people had sown rice, oi" wliicli he had lnoiiiiiit
us some, and onions ; Itut near eaeli setth'inetit was n
waste, liH it was not [)oli(V to permit such " mnnh'ious
pagans" to exist near them, otherwise he and his [)e(»pK''s
lives were not sate. He iiad h)st altout 200 men of tlie
l^akusu and liasan^'ora trihes, and many a tine Manyuema
headman. One time he had lost 40, of whom not one
ha<l returned. He had an Aral) uiu-st at his station who
ha<l lost every soul out of his caravan.

I observed a disposition on his part to send some
men with me to the Lake, and there appeared to lie no
difficulty in housing' with him my sick men for a con-
sideration — to l>e hereafter a<;ree(l upon.

On the 17th we proceeded a short distance to encamp
o[)posite L .i^arrowwa's station.

In the afternoon 1 was rowed across in my hoat to the
Aral) settlement, and was hospitahly received. I found
the station to he a lai-ye setth'inent, jealously fenced
round with tall })alisades and short planks lashed across
as screens against chance arrows. In the centre, facino-
the river, was the house of the chief, commodious, lofty,
and conifortahle, the walls of which were pierced for
nuisketry. It resembled a fort with its lofty and
frowning walls of haked (day. On passing through a
passage which separated L'garrowwas private apart-
ments from the public rooms. I had a view of a great
court (10 feet s([uare, surrounded by buildings and tilled
with servants. It suiiuested something' baronial in its
busy aspect, the abundant servi<'e, the great difference
of the domestics, am})litude of sjiace, and plenty. The
place was certainly im])iegnable against attack, and,
if at all spiritedly defended, a full battalion would have
been necessary to have captured this outpost of a slave
trader.

I was informed that the ii\er for many days' march
a])peared to How from the eastward ; that the lliui'u. a
considerable distance uj), flowed from the northward and
joined the Ituri, and that, besides the Lenda, there was
another affluent called the Ibina, which entered from the
south.

St'iit. 1").

.\miri
Fiills.

!^^^^

li=!87.
Sept. 17.

Ufarrow-
\va's
station.

\\i

*lti^t

208

JN DAllKEST AFIIICA.

Somcwliere liiirlior ui) also, — vaoiielv oiven as ten davs'
1)V orhois tweiitv days' march, — aiiotlier Aral) was settled
who was called Kilouoa-Loniia, thoimh his real name was
also Uledi.

At this settlement I saw the first specimen of the
trihe of dwarfs who were said to be thickly scattered
north of the Itnri, from the Xoaivu eastward. She
measured thirty-three inches in height, and was a per-
fectly formed youn*"- woman of aliout seyenteen, of a
glistening and smooth sleekness of body. Her figure
was that of a miniature coloured lady, not wanting in a
certain grace, and her face was yery pre[)ossessing. Her
com[)lexion was that of a (piadroon, or of the colour of
yellow iyory. Her eyes were magnificent, hut absurdly
hirge for su'.-h a sma.U creature — almost as lari»e as that
of a young gazelle ; full, protruding, and extremely
lustrous. Absolutely nude, the little demoiselle was
(juite })ossessed, as though she were accustomed to he
admired, and really enjoyed inspection. She had been
dis('(jyered near the sources of the Xgaiyu.

Tgarrowwa, haying shown me all his treasures, in-
eluding the splendid store of iyory he had succeeded in
collecting, accompanied nie to the boat, and sent away
with me large trays of ex(|uisitely cooked rice, and an
immense bowl full of curried fowl, a dish that I
am not fond of, l)ut which inspired gratitude in my
eam[).

( hir landing-place presented a liyely scene. The
sellei's of bana las, potatoes, sugar-cane, rice, flour of
maiiioc, and fowls clamoured for customers^ and cloths
and beads exchanged hands rai)idly. This is the kind
of life which the Zanzibaris delight in, like almost all
other natiyes, and their hap[)y spirits were expressed in
sounds to which we had lon<>' been strangers.

Early this morning I had sent a canoe to pick up any
stragglers that might haye been unable to reach camp,
and before '^ p.m. iiye sick men, who had surrendered
themsehes to their fate, were brought in, and shortly
alter a nuister was held. The following were the returns
of men able to march : —

BETCJIXS OF MEN ABLE TO MMIVII.

209

I (lays'
settled
Lie was

of the

ittered

8he

a per-
il, of a

figure
iig ill a
. Her
lour of
l)sunlly
as that
tremely
He was
1 to I'.e
[\(\ been

ires, in-

eded in

it away

and au

that I

in my

'. The
tlour of
d cloths
lie kind
most all
essed in

up any
■h camp,
•endeved

shortly
e returns

No. 1 Conii)aiiy
No. 2
No. 8
No. 4
Cooks .
I'.oy.s .
Europeans .
Soudanese

Sick

Departed from Yaiubuya
Loss by desertion and d(!atli

Men.

Cliipfs.

(jU

• *

• •

271

827

389

1887.
Sept. 17.

Ugarrow-

wa's
station.

The boat and canoes were manned, and tlie sick
transported to tlie Arab settlement, arrano'cments having
been made for boardinu' them .it the rate of five (h)llars
each per month until ^lajor Barttelot should ajipear,
or some person bearing an order from me.

It will be remembered that we met Toarrowwa's men
on the ;]lst of August, one day's march from Avejeli,
o})posite the Nepoko mouth. These men. instead of pur-
suing their way (h)wn river, had retui'iied to L'garrowwa
to inform him of the news they had received from us,
believing that their mission was acconi[)lished. It was
Tgarrowwa's wish to obtain gun[)owder, as his supply
was nearly exhausted. iMajor Barttelot ])ossessed two
and a (piarter tons of this e.\})losive, and, as re})orted by
us, was advancing up river, but as he had so much
ba^naoe it would take several months before he could
ai'iive so far. I wished to communicate with Major
Barttelot, and accordingly 1 stipulated with Igarrowwa
that if his men continued their way down river along
the south or left bank until they deUvered a lettei' into
his hands, 1 would give him an order for three hundred-
weight of powder. He promiscMl to send forty scouts
within a month, and expressed great gratitude. (He
actually did send them, as he })romised, between the lM)rh
and *25th of October. They succeeded in reaching Wasp
I'apids, I Of) miles from Vambuva, whence thev were
obliged to return, owing to losses and the determined
hostility of the natives.)

vol.. I. o

\V:\^

°"''jf»^

■

210

1887.
Sept. 17.

Ugarrow-

wa's
station.

w^m

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Our Zanzihari deserters had been deluded like our-
selves. Imagining that Ugarrowwa's people had con-
tinued their journey along some inland route westward,
they had hastened westward in pursuit to join them,
whereas we discovered they had returned eastward
to their master. The arrangements made with U2:ar-
rowwa, and the public proclamation of the man himself
before all, would, I was assured, suffice to prevent further
desertion.

We were pretty tired of the river work with its
numerous rapids, and I suggested to Ugarrowwa that I
should proceed by land ; the Arab, however, was earnest
in dissuading me fnmi that course, as the people would
be spared the necessity of carrying many loads, the sick
having been left behind, and informed me that his in-
formation led him to believe that the river was much
more navigable above for many days than below.

CHAPTER IX.

Ugarrow-

wa's

station.

ITGARROWWA S TO KILONGA-LONUA S.

Ugarrowwa sends iis three Zaiizibari deserters — We make an example
— The "Express" rifles— Conversation with Rashid -The lienda
river — Troublesome rapids- Scarcity of food — Sonie of Kiloiiga-
Longa's followers — Meeting of the rivers Ihnru and Ituri — State
and numbers of the Ex))edition — Illness of Captain Nelson — Wo
send couriers ahead to Kilonga-Longa's — The sick encampnuait
— Randy and the guinea fowl -Scarcity of food — Illness caused
by the forest i)ears — Fanciful menus — More desertions — Asmani
drowned — Our condition in brief — Uledi's suggestion — Umari's climb
—My donkey is shot for food— We strike the track of the Manyuema
and arrive at their village

Onx'E more the Expedition c*on8i.sted of picked men. imi.
My mind was relieved of anxiety respecting the rear ^''^^^- ^^
column, and of the fate which threatened the sick men.
We set out from Ugarrrowa's station with 180 hjads in
the canoes and boat, forty-seven loads to be carried
once in four davs l)v alternate ccmipanies. The Aral)s
accompanied us for a few hours on the 19th to start us
on our road and to wish us success in our venture.

We had scarcely been all colle(;ted in our camp, and
the evening was rapidly becoming dusky, when a canoe
from Ugarrowwa appeared with three Zanzibaris bound
as })risoners. Intjuiring the cause of this, I was astonished
to find that tliev were deserters whom Uo^arrovrwa had
picked up soon after reaching his station. They had
absconded with ritles, and their pouches showed that
they had contrived to filch cartridges on the road. I
rewarded lloarrowwa with a revolver and 200 cartridges.
The prisoners were secured for the night, but ))efbre
retiring I de})ated carefully as to what method was beat
to deal with these people. If this were permitted to

I ^

212

1837.

Sept. 10.

Ustarrow-

w.'i's

station.

IN DABKI'JST AFllJCA.

proceed without the strongest measures, we should in a
sliort time be compelled to retrace our steps, and all the
lives and bitter agonies of the march would Jiave been
ex})ended in vain.

\n the morninii' " all hands " were mustered, and an
address was delivered to the men in fittino" words, to
wdiich all assented ; and all agreed that we had en-
(leav(mred our utmost to do our dutv, that we had all
l)orne much, but that the people on this occasion
appeared t(j be all slaves, and possessed no moral sense
whatever. They readily conceded that if natives
atteni[)ted to steal our ritles, which were " our souls,"
we should be justified in shooting them dead, and
that if men, paid for their labour, protected and ti'eated
kindly, as they were, attempted to c-ut our tliroats in the
nii>:it, were eciuallv liable to be shot.

" W ell then," said I, " what are these doino' but taking'
our arms, and running away with our means of defence.
You say that you would shoot natives, if they stood in
your way preventing your progress onward or reti'eat
Itackward. What are these doing ( For if you have no
riHes left, or ammunition, can you mai'cli either forward
or backward { "

" No," they admitted.

" Very well, then, you have condemned them to death.
One shall die to-day, another to-morrow, and anothei'
the next day, and fnmi this day forward, every thief and
deserter who leaves his duty and imperils his comrades'
lives shall die."

The culprits were then (juestioned as to who they
were. One re})Hed that he was the slave of Farjalla-bill
Ali — a headman in No. 1 company : another that he was
the shive of a Jjanyan in Zanzibar, and the third that he
was the slave of an artizan at work in Unvanvembe'.

Lots were cast, and he who chose the shortest paper
of three slips was the one to die first. The lot fell upon
the slave of Kai'jalla, who was then present. The rope
was heaved over a stout branch. Forty men at the
woi'd of connnaiid lay hold of the rope and a noose was
erst round the pi'isoner's neck.

iiv; J/.IA7-; EXAMPLES OF 'J'// 1,' /■:/■: i>i-:si-:in'i:i!s.

2ia

Mith.

thev

)a])i'i'

upon

rope

the

ii was

'• Have you anything to .say ])efore the word iw
given {

He replied with a sliake of the liead. The signal was
given, and the man was hoisted up. Ikdoi-e the last
sti'uggles were over, the Expedition had tiled out of
camp leaving the rearguard and river colunri beliind.
A rattan was substituted in place of our rope, the hody
was secured to the tree, and within fifteen minutes the
camp was abandoned.

We made i>()od progress on this da v. A track ran
ahmii the river which iireatlv assisted the caravan. In
pa.s.sing through we .searched and found only ten
bunches of miniature plantains. We formed camp an
hour's distance from the confluence of the Lenda and
Ituri.

xAnother noble tu.sker was bathing opposite the rivei',
and Captain Nelson, with a double-barrelled I'ifle, similar
to my own, my.self, and Saat Tato the hunter, ci-ossed over
and floated tlown within fifteen yards of the elephant.
We fired three bullets sinudtaneouslv into him. and in a
.second had planted two more, and yet with all this lead
fired at vital parts the animal contrived to e,scaj)e.
From this time we lost ail confidence in these I'ifles.
We never bagged one head of game with the Ex})re,s.ses
during the entire Expedition. Captain Nelson .sold his
rifle for a small supply of food to Kilonga- Longa .some
time afterwards, and 1 pai-ted with mine as a gift to
Antari, King of Ankori. nearlx' two years later. With
the No. 8 or No. 10 IJeilly rifle I was always succe.ssful,
therefore tho.se interested in such thin<!s mav avail
them.selves of our exj)erience.

As the next day dawned and a grey light broke
through the undtrageous co})ing of the camp I despatched
a boy to call the head chief Ivashid.

" Well, liashid, old man. we shall have to execute
the other man ])re.sentl\'. It will .so(»n be time to pre-
pare for it. What do you ,siy i "

" Well, what can we do eUc than kill those who ai'e
trying to kill us? If we point to a pit filled at the
I'Ottom ^^ith pointed pales and poisoned skewers, and

ISST.
.Sopt. 19.

L'giirrow-
ftatiim.

•■)■■ ['i^r^ •

214

IN DA UK EST AFRICA.

wa s
station.

1887. tell men to beware of it, surely we are not to blame if
Sept. 20. j^^gjj y|jy^ their ears to words of warning and sprnig in.
^'Hl'T' On their own heads let the guilt lie."

" But it is very hard after all. Rashid bin Omar, this
forest makes men's hearts like lead, and hunger has
driven their wits out of their heads ; nothino- is thouoht
of but the empty belly and erying stomach. I have
heard that when mothers are driven by famine the}- will
sometimes eat their children. Why should we wonder
that the servant runs away from his master when he
cannot feed him ? "

" That is the truth as plain as sunshine. But if we
have to die let us all die together. There are plent}' of
eood men here who will i>ive vou their hearts whenever
you bid them do it. There are others — slaves of
slaves — who know nothino- and care for nothino- and as
they W(juld fly with what we need to make our own
lives sure, let them perish and rot. They all know that
you, a Christian, are unaergoing all this to save the
sons of Islam who are in trouble near some great sea,
beyond here ; they profess Islam, and yet would leave
the ('hristian in the bush. Let them die."

" But supposing, Rashid. we could prevent this break-
up and near ruin by some other way not quite ho
severe as to hang them up until they are dead ; v.'hat
would you say 'i "

" I would say, sir, that all ways are good, but, without
doubt, the best is that whicili will leave them living to
repent."

" Good, then, after my coffee the muster will ])e
sounded. jVleanwhile, prepare a long rattan cable ;
double it over that stout l)ranch vonder. ^lake a mnnl
noose of a piece of that new sounding line. Get the
pi'isoner ready, put guards over him. then when you
hear the trumpet tell these words in the ears of the
other chiefs, ' Gome to me, and ask his pardon, and I
will give it you.' 1 shall look to you, and ask if you
have anything to say; i hat will be your signal. How
do you like it ? "

" Let it be as vou sav. The Lien will answer you."

'1.]^

ig in.

L', tliii^
r lias
ought
luive
ty will
onder
en he

if we
ntv of
enever
^'es of
and a.s
ir own
w that
ve the
at sea,
1 leave

break-
Uite so
vrliat

tliout

vmg to

kvill he
-ahle ;
a goo<l
^et the
en vou
of 'the
and I
if you
How

AN EMOTIONAL SCENE.

215

you.

In half-an-hour the muster signal sounded ; the com-
panies formed a square enclosing the prisoner. A long
rattan cable hung suspended with the fatal noose
attached to a loop ; it trailed along the ground like an
immense serpent. After a short address, a man ad-
vanced and placed the noose around the neck ; a com-
pany was told otf to hoist the man upward,

" Now, my man, have you anything to say to us
before vou join your brother who died yesterdav ? "

The man remained silent, and scarcely seemed
conscious that I spoke. I turned round to the head
man. " Have you anything to say ])efore I pass the
word ? "

Then Rashid nudged his brother chiefs, at which
they all rushed up, and threw themselves at my feet,
pleading forgiveness, blaming in harsh terms the thieves
and murderers, l)ut vowing that their behaviour in
future would be better if mercy was extended for this
one time.

During this scene the Zaiizil)aris' faces were worth
observing. How the eyes dilated and the lips closed,
and their cheeks became pallid, as with the speed of an
electric flash the same emotion moved them !

" Enough, children ! take your man, his life is yours.
But see to it. There is only one law in future for him
who robs us of a ritle, and that is death by the cord."

Then such a manifestation of feeling occurred that I
was amazed — real big tears rolled down many a face,
while every eye was suti'used and enlarged with his
})assionate emotions. Caps and turbans were tossed
nto the air. Rities were lifted, and every right arm
was up as they exclaimed " Until the white cap is
])uried none shall leave him ! Death to him who leaves
Bula Matari ! Show the way to the Xvanza ! Lead on
now — now we will follow ! "

Nowhere have 1 witnessed such affecting excitement
except in Spain — perhaps when the Repuljlicans
storniily roared their sentiments, after listening to some
glorious exhortations to stand true to the new faith in
Libertad, Igualdad, and Fraternidad !

1887.
Si'i'.t. •-'().

L'garrow-

wa's
station.

^ t r

:il|i#

216

IN DAUKKST A Fine A.

Wll s

station.

1887. The pris(»iioi' also wept, aiul at'tor tlie noose was flimo-
Sopt. 20. ;isi(|(\ knclr down and vowed to die at iiiy feet. We
i,Mirow- j^ii^j^^j^. hands and I said, "It is Ood's woi'k, thank
llini."

Meiiily the trnni[)et l)hii'ed once nioi-e, and at once
rose every voice, " liy the hel[) of (iod I \\\ the help of
(xod ! " The detail for tlie day spi'ano- to their posts,
received their heavy load for the day, and marched
away rejoicing as to a feast. Even the ofticei-s smiled
their approval. Never was there such a nnniher of
warmed hearts in the forest of the Congo as on that
day.

The land and river columns reached the Lenda
within an hour, and about the same time. This was
.apparently a deep river about a hundred yards wide.
On the west side of the conHuence was a small village,
l)ut its plantain groves had been long ago despoiled of
fruit. Soon after the ferriage was completed the men
were permitted to scour the country in search of food ;
scmie on the north bank, and others on the south bank,
but lono- before ni<>ht thev all returned, havinii; been
unable to find a morsel of any kind of edible.

On the 22nd, while pursuing our \«'ay by river and
by land as usual, 1 '-etlected that only on th*^ IHtli I had
left fifty-six invalids under the care of an Ai'ab ; yet
on observing the })eople at the muster, I noticed that
there were about fifty already incapacitated by debility.
The very stoutest and most prudent were pining under
such protracted and mean diet. To press on through
such wastes unpeopled l»y the ivory hunters appeared
sim})ly im[)ossil)lG, but on arriving at Umeni we had the
good fortune to find sufficient for a full day's rations,
and hope again filled us.

The following dav, one man, called " Abdallah the
humped," deserted. We on the rixer were troubled
with several rapids, and patches of br(jken water, and
in discharging cargo. an<l hauling canoes, and finally
we came in view of a fall of forty feet w^ith lengths of
I'apids above and below.

One would have thought that by this time the Ituri

! i>

TIloriU.F.soME It A I'lDH.

2i]

would liave beroinc an iusiniiiticaiit stream. 1»im wlicn
we HJiw the voliune of water precipitated over 'he third
larii'e eutaruct, we had to ackiiowledii-e that it was still a
pnverful river.

The 24tli was passed l)y lis in foraoino-, and cuttino' a,
hiiihwav to above the ra])ids and disconnectinu boat
sections for transport. The ])ioneers secured a fair
(pjantity of plantains, tlie three other companies
nothing. '^!'he obstructions to this cataract (consisted of
reddish schistose rock.

On the next dav we were clear of the third cataract
and halted at an old Arab encampment. Durinu' this
day no new supply of food was obtained.

The day following we reached another series of
rapids, and after a terrible day's work unloading and
reshipping several times, with the fatigues and anxiety
incurred during the mounting of the dangerous rapids,
we reached camp opposite Avatiko.

Plow useful the boat and eanoes were to us may
be imagined from the fact that it reipiired us to make
three round trips to carry 227 loads. Even then it
oceupied all the healthy men until night. The people
were so reduced by hunger, that over a third could d(^
no more than crawl. I was personally reduced to t^vo
bananas on this dav from morning to night. Bur some
of our Zanzil)aris had found nothing to sul)sist on for
two entire days, whieh was enough to sap the strength
of the best. A foraging party of No. 1 Company crossed
the river to Avatiko settlement, and found a small
supply of young fruit, but they captured a woman who
stated that she knew and could guide us • » plantains as
large as her arms.

The 27th of Septem])er was a halt. [ despatched
Lieutenant Stairs to explore ahead along the river, and
180 men across river to forage for food, with our
female captive as guide. The former returned to report
that no village had been seen, and to detail an excitiiig
encounter he had had with elephants, fnmi which it
appeared he had a narrow escape. The Zanzibaris
came back with sufficient plantains to distribute frijni

1887.
Sept. •2^^

Itiiii
Kiv.r.

«i!1

4 j

f|i^4

Se
Avatiko

218

7.V DA UK EST AFRICA.

1887. sixty to eighty per man. If tlie people had followed
'■''•"'• our plan of economisin**; the food, we should have had

less suffering- to record, hut tlieir api)etites were usually
ungo vernal )le. Tlie (juantity now distrihuted impartially,
ouL>lit to have served them for from six to eiti'lit davs,
but several sat up all night to eat, trusting in ()l(jd to
supply them with more on peremptory demand.

On the 30th the river and land parties met at lunel
time. This day the otHcers and myself enjoyed a feast.
Stairs had discovered a live antelope in a pit, and I
had discovered a mess of fresh fish in a native hasket-
net at the mouth of a small creek. In the afternoon
we camped at a portion of the river hank which slujwed
signs of its Ijeing used as a landing near a ferry. Soon
after camping we were startled by three shots. These
indicated the presence of Manyuema, and presentl}'
about a dozen fine-looking )nen stalked into the camp.
They were the followers of Kilonga-Longa, the rival of
LIgarrowwa in the career of devastation to which these
two leaders had committed themselves.

The jManyuema informed us that Kilonga-Longa's
settlement was but five davs' icjurnev, and that as the
country was uninhabited it would be necessary to
provide rations of plantains which could be procured
across river, and that stdl a month's journey lay between
us and the grass land. They advised us to stay at the
place two days to prepare the f(jod, to which we were
very willing to agree, the discovery of some kind of
provisions being imi)erati\'e.

During the first day's halt, the search for food was
unsuccessful, but on the second day at early dawn a
strong detachment left for the north bank, under
Lieutenant Stairs and Surgeon Parke. In the afternoon
the foragers returned with sufficient plantains to enal)le
us to serve out fortv to each man. Some (^f the most
enterprising men had secured more, but extreme want
had rendered them somewhat unscrupulous, and they
had contrived to secrete a small reser\'e.

On the 3rd of October, soon after leaving our camp
in the morning, we entered into a pool-like formation,

■^ i

SCARCTTY OF FOOD.

219

lowed
e hatl
sually
tially,
(Ui\>.
Uk\ t(i

lunch
, feast,
and 1
)asket-
srnoon
iliowcd
Soon
These
3sently
camp,
[ival of
1 these

<onga's
as the
iry to
L'ocured
•etwee n
at the
e were
and of

od was
dawn a

under
ternoon

enahle
le most
le want
id they

ir camp
mation,

1 n St.irvHtion

renunded c,„„j,.

surrounded by hills rising' from 250 to GOO feet ahovc
the river, and arrivin<jj at the end saw a crooked, ditch-
like, and very turhulent stream. The scener\
us of a miniature Congo canon, haidvcd as it was with
lines of lofty hills. A presentiment warned us that we
were alumt to meet more serious obstacles than any we
had yet met. We progressed, however, U])war<l ahout
three miles, but the difficulties of advance were so
numerous that we were unable to reach the caravan
camp.

On the 4th we proceeded about a mile and a half,
and crcjssed the Expedition to the north bank, as we
had been told that the Manyuema settlement of l2)<>to
was situated on that side. The Manyuema had dis-
appeared, and three of our deserters had accompanied
them. Two men had also died of d\'sentery. AVe
experienced several narrow escapes ; a canoe was twice
submerged, the steel boat was nearly lost, and the
severe bumping she received destroyed the rate of our
chronometers, whi('h hitherto had been regular. I
should have abandoned the river on this dav, but the
wihlerness, the liorri))le, hmely, uninhabited wilderness,
and the excessive physical prostration and weakness of
the people, forbade it. We hoped and hoped that we
should be able to arrive at some place where food and
rest could be obtained, which a^^peared improl)a])le,
except at Kilonga-Longa's settlement.

The next day we arrived, at 10 a.m., after a pusli
through terribly wild water, at a sharp bend cur\ing
eastward fr(mi N.E., distiuiiuished. bv its similarity of
outUne on a f-mall scale to Nsona Mamba, of the Lower
Congo. Stepping on shore before we had gone far
within the bend, and standing on scmie lavadike rock,

18H7.

Oc t. ;».

saw at a glance that this was ihe end of ri^-er

navigation by canoes. The hills rose up to a })older
height, (juite GOO feet, the stream was contracted to a
width of twenty-five yards, and about a hundred yards
al)ovT- the point on which 1 stood, the Ihuru escaped,
wild and furious, from a gorge ; while the Ituri was seen
des(!ending from a height in a series of cataracts, and,

' I*'

220

fX DA UK EST A nil ('A.

1 tji

I'll

Staivatiii
("limp.

Imtli uiiitin;^' jit tliis point, find racing' madly at the
liiiihcst pitch and velocity, licllowcd their nproar londly
union<!st tile enii»a!d\inu' and somhi-e loi-est hei<jhts.

I sent messengers across tlie river to recall the
caravan which was undi'r the leadershi[) of Stairs, and
on their return recrossed the [X'ople to the south l>aid<.

On the mornino' of the (ith of (><'tol»er our state and
mimhers were l'7 I in nundter. iixdudinii' white and
Itlack, Since then two had died of dysentery, one
from dehility, four had deserted, uJid one man was
handed. We had therefore 'HV,\ men left. Out oi
this nmnher fifty-two had heen reduced to skeletons,
wiio first, attacked by ulcers, had heen unahle to
forage, and tu wlumi through their want of econo-
mizing' what rations had ))een distributed, had not
sufficient to maintain them durino- the davs that
nitervened of total want. These losses in men left
me 21 1 still able to march, and as amcmg these there
were forty men non-earriers, and as I had 227 loads, it
foHowed that when 1 needed carriaue, I had about
eighty loads more than could be earried. (*a2)taiii
Nelson for the last two weeks had also suffered from a
dozen small ulcers, which had gradually increased in
virulence. On this dav then, when the wild state of the
river (juite prohibited further progress by it, he and
fifty -two men were utterly unfit and incapal)le of
travel.

It was a difficult problem that now faeed us.
Captain Nelson was our comrade, whom to save we
were bound to exert our best foree. To the fifty-two
bhu'k men we were equally bound by the most solenm
obligations ; and dark as was the prospeet around us, we
were not so far reduced but that we entertained a lively
hope that we could save them. As the JVIanyuema had
reported that their settlement was only five days'
journev, and we had alreadv travelled two davs' mareh,
then probably the village or station was still three days
ahead of us. It was suggested by Captain Nelson that
if we despatched intelligent couriers ahead, they would
be enabled to reach Kilonga-Longa's settlement long

I 4 -

it tllo

(»U«llv

W the

S, illl'l

milk.
:e and

C illltl

^, one
n was
)ut oi
Ictons,
hie to
eeoiio-
id not
^ that
ni leil
3 there
nuls, it

about
^uptain
fVom a
sed in
■ of til e
le and

)le of

;1 us.
ive we
tv-two
solemn

us, we

lively

ma had

days'

mareli,

e davs
m that

would
it long

A (I LOOM)- ('AMI'.

221

l)efore the cohinin. As this su_u'L;estion admitted of
no contradiction, and as ilic ln'ad men were iiatui'ally
the most capahh' and intenim'iit. the chief of tlic licad
men and five others were hastened off, and instructecl at
once to proceed alon,u' the south l»ank of the river until
they discovered some landiiiLi,' place, whence tliev must
find means to cross the Ituri an<l find the settlement,
and obtain an immediate store of fo(td.

13efore startino' otHcers and men demanded to know
from me whether 1 believed the stoiy of Arai)s bein^
ahead. I re[)lied that 1 belie\ed most thoroughly, but
that it was [)ossible that the Manyuema had under-
estimated the distance to uratifv or encourage us and
abate our anxiety.

After infoi'miuii' the unfortunate crip))Ies of our in-
tention to proceed forward until we could tind food that
we miiiht not all be lost, i'lid send relief as (|uickly as
it colli' be obtained, I coiisioned the fifty-two men,
ei«ihty-one loads, and ten canoes in charge of (*aptain
Nelson- bade him be of oood cheer, and lioistin*"' our
loads and boat on our shoulders, we marched away.

No more ^htoniy spot could have been sele<'ted for a
caiiij) than that saiuly terrace, encomjiassed by rocks
and hemmed in narrowly by those dark woods, which
lose from the river's edi>e to the height of (iOO feet,
and pent in the never-ceasiiiii' uproar created by the
writhing and tortured stream and the twin cataracts,
that ever rivalled each other's thunder. The imagina-
tion shudders at the hapless position of those crip[)]ed
men, who were <loomed to remain inactive, to listen every
moment to the awful sound of that irreconcilable fury of
wrathful waters, and the monotonous and continuous
roar of plunging rivers, to watch the leaping waves,
coiling and twistinii' into chanoing columns as thev ever
wrestled for masterv with each other, and were dashed
in white fragments of foam far apart by the ceaseless
force of driven currents; to gaze at the dark, relentless
woods spreading upward and around, standing per-
petually fixed in dull green, mourning over past ages,
past times, and past generati(jns ; then think of the

\XX~i.

Oct. tl.

St;iiviitiiii\

('ain|i.

I ,1

222

IN DxiRKES T A FRICA.

1887.
Oct. 6.

\son;i
Mamba.

I i;

'lllf:

I! %

m i

ni,i»ht, with its palpal jle blackness, the dead black
shadows of the wooded hills, that eternal sound of
furv, that ceaseless boom of the cataracts, the indefinite
forms ])()rn of nervousness and fearfulness, that misery
engendered l)y loneliness and creeping sense of al^andon-
meni ; then will be understood something of the true
position of these poor men.

And what of us trudging up these wooded slopes to
gain the crest of the forc^-t uplands, to tramp on and on,
whither we knew not, for how long a time we dared not
think, seeking for food with the doul>le responsibility
weighing us down for these trustful, brave fellows
Miih us, and for those, no less brave and trustful,
whom we had left behind at the bottom of the horrible
canon I

As 1 looked at the p(jor men struggling wearily on-
ward it appeared to me as though a few houi's only were
needed to ensure our fate. One day, perhaps two days,
and then life would ebb away. How their eyes searched
the wild woods for the red berries of the phrynia, and
the tartish, crimson, and oblong fruit of the amoma !
How they rushed for the Hat beans of the forest, and
o-loated over their treasures of funo;i ! In short, nothino-
was rejected in this severe distress to which we were
reduced except leaves and wood. We pas ^d several
abandoned clearings ; and some men chopped down pieces
of l)anana stalk, then searched for wild herbs to make
potage, the bastard jack fruit, or the fene.'^si, and otlier
Irioe fruit became dear ol)iects of interest as we straool^d

on.

" Return \vc conld not, nor
Continue wlicre we were ; to shift our ])lnce
Was to exchange one misery witli anotlicr.
And every day that came, came to decay
A day's work in us."

On the 7th of October we began at 6.30 a.m. to
commence that funereal pace through the trackless region
on the crest of the forest u])lands. We picked up fungi,
and the utafoih/a wild fruit, as we travelled, and aftei*
seven hours' march we rested for the day. At 1 1 a.m.
we had halted for lunch at the usual hour. Each otticer

RANDY AND THE G TINEA FOWL.

223

had economised his rations of bananas. Two were
the utmost that I couhl spare for myself. My comrades
were also as rigidly strict and close in their diet, and a
cup of sugarless tea closed the repast. We were sitting
conversing about oar prospects, discussing the pro])a-
bilities of our couriers reaching some settlement on this
day, or the next, and the time that it would take them
to return, and they desired to know whether in my
previous African experiences I had encountered anything
so grievous as this.

" No ; not ({uite so bad as this," I replied. " We have
suffered ; l)ut not to such an extremity. Those nine
days on the way into Ituru were wretched On our
tlioht from Bumbire' we certainlv suti'ered much hun<>er,
and also while floating down the Congo to trace its
course our condition was much to l)e pitied ; l)ut we had
a little of something, and at least hirge hope. The age
of miracles is past, it is said, but why should they ])e ?
Moses drew water from the rock at Horcb for the
thirsty Israelites. Of water we have enough and to
spare. Elijah was fed by ravens at the brook Oherith,
l>ut there is not a raven in all this forest. Christ was
ministered unto ])y angels. 1 wonder if any one will
minister unto us ? "

Just then there was a sound as of a large ])ird
whirring through the air. Little Randy, my fox-terrier,
lifted up a foot and gazed incjuiringly ; we turned our
heads t(j see, and that second the bird dro})ped beneath
the jaws of Randy, who snapped at the prize and held it
fast, in a vice as of iron.

" There, boys," I said, " truly the gods are gracious.
The age of miracles is not past," and my comrades were
;seen gazing in delightc<l surpi'ise at the Inrd, whicli was
a fine fat ouinea fowl. It was not lon<>- before the
guinea fowl was divided, and Handy, its captor, had his
lawful share, rnd the little doyyie seemed to know that
he had grown in esteem with all men, and we enjoyed
our prize each with his own feelings.

On the next day, in order to relieve the boat-
l)earers of their hard work, Mr. Jephson was recjuested

1887.
Oct. 7.

Forest

224

IN DARKEST AFIUCA.

5-1
U
it

18S7.
Oct. 7.

Forest.

to (M)iiiiect the sectioii.s toiietlier, and two hours after
starting on the march came op])().'^ite an inha])ite(l i.shind.
The advance scouts seized a canoe and l)ore sti'aii»ht on
to the ishmd, to snatch in the same unruly manner us
Orhindo, meat for the hungry.

" Wliat woukl you, unruly men ? "

" We would luive meat I Two hundred staowr in
these woods and reel with faintness."

The natives did not stand for further question, hut

liAXDY SKIZKS TIIK (lUI.NEA FOWL.

vanislicd kindly, and left their treasures of food. We
received as our share two pounds of Intlian corn and
half-a-[)ound of heans. Altogether al)out twenty-tive
pounds (»f corn were discovered, which was distrihuted
among the })eo[)h\

in the afternoon I received a note fnmi Mr. Jephson,
who was behind with the hoat : " For (iod's sake, if you
can get any food at the village send us some."

We despatched answer to .le[)hson to hunt up the
wounded ele|)hant that I had shot, and which had taken

V Mi

l)Ut

'itt*

■•s

J-^

AVc

n aiitl
Ity-tive
lilmttnl

iplison
if you

[ip the
taken

Wi: SEND MEN TO SEARCH FOR FOOD.

225

refuge on an island near him, and in reply to his anxious
letter, a small liandful of corn.

On the 9th of October 100 men v(^lunteered to fjo
across river and explore inland from the nortli bank
with a resolute intention not to return without food of
some kind. I went up river with the boat's crew, and
Stairs down river to strike inland by a little track in
the hope that it might lead to some village ; those who
were too dispiiited to go far wandei'ed southward
through the woods to search for wild fruit and forest
beans. This last article was about four times the size
of a large garden bean, encased in a brown leathery rind.
At first we had contented ourselves with merely
skinning it and boiling it, but this produced sickness of
the stomach. An old woman captured on the island
was seen to prepare a dish of these l)eans by skinning
them and rfterwards cleaning the inner covering, and
finally scraping them as we would nutmegs. Out of
this Houry substance she made some patties for her
c iptor, who shouted in ecstasies that they were good.
Whereupon everybody bestirred themselves to collect
the beans, which were fairly plentiful. Tempted by a
'■ lady finger" cake of this article that was brought to
nie. I ventured to try it, and found it sufficiently filling,
and about as palatable as a mess of acorns. Indeed, the
iiaxour stronglv reminded me of the acorn. The fungi
were of several varieties, some })ure and })erfect nnisli-
rooms, others were of a less harmless kind; but surely
the gods protected the miserable human beings con-
demned to live on such things. ({rul)s were collected, also
slugs from the trees, cater})illars, and white ants — these
served for meat. The iii((/h'11(/n. (nux vomica) furnished
the dessert, with j'tin'ssi or a species of bastard jack
fruit.

The following day .--ome of the foragers from across
the river returned bringing nothing. They had dis-
covered such emptiness on the north bank as we had
found on the south bank ; but " inshallah ! " thev said,
■■ we shall find food either to-morrow or the next
<lay."

VOL. I. V

4 '

1887.
Oct. 9.

Forest.

! !

226

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

i' I

! \

1887.
Oct. 10.

Forest.

;. I

In the morning I had eaten my hist grain of Indian
corn, and my hist portion of everything solid that was
obtainable, and at noon the horrid pains of the
stomach had to be satisfied with something. Some
potato leaves l)rought me ])y Wadi Kliamis, a headman,
were bruised fine and cooked. They were not bad,
still the stomach ached from utter depletion. Then a
Zanzibari, with his face aglow w'th honest pride, brought
me a dozen fruit of the size {;r-;l colour of prize pear,
which emitted a most pleasant fruity odour. He
warranted them to be lovely, and declared that the men
enjoyed them, but the finest had been picked out for
myself and officers. He had also brought a pattie made
out of the wood-bean flour which had a. rich custardy
look about it. With many thanks I accepted this novel
repast, and I felt a grateful sense of fulness. In an
hour, however, a nausea attacked me, and I was forced
to seek my bed. The temples presently felt as if con-
stricted by an iron band, the eyes blinked strangely,
and a magnifying glass did not enable me to read
the figures of Norie's Epitome. My servant, with the
rashness of youth, had lunched bravely on what I had
shared with him of the sweetly-smelling pear-like fruit,
and conse(|uently suffered more severely. Had he been
in a little cockle boat on a mad channel sea he could
scarcely have presented a more flabby and disordered
aspect than had l)een caused by the forest pears.

Just at sunset the foragers of No. I Company, after
an absence of thirty-six hours, appeared from the
N. l)ank, bringing sufficient plantains to save the
Europeans from despair and starvation ; but the men
received only two plantains each, e<|ual to four ounces
of solid stuff*, to put into stomachs that would have
required eight pounds to satisfy.

The officers Stairs, Jephson, and Parke, had been
amusing themselves the entire afternoon in drawing
fanciful menus, where such things figured as : —

ti \

Filot de boeuf en Cliartreuse.

Pctitcs l)oucli(''Cs aux liuitres de Ostende.

Bocassines roties a la Londres.

\ Wit

I I

after
the
the

men
ouiiees.

have

})eeii
:a\viiig

FANCIFUL MENUS OF THE OFFICERS.

227

Another had shown his Anglo-Saxon proclivities for i887.
solids such as : — ^^- ^^•

Furt'St.

Hain and eggs and jilcnty of them,
Iloast beef and potatoes unlimited,
A weighty plum pudding.

There were two of the foragers missing, but we could
not wait for them. We moved from this starvation
camp to one higher up, a distance of eleven miles.

A man of No. '^ Company dropped his box of
ammunition into a deep affluent and lost it. Kajeli
stole a box of Winchester ammunition and absconuod.
Salim stole a ease containing Emin Pasha's ^icw boots
and two pairs of mine, and deserted. Wadi Adam
vanished with Suigeon Parke's entire kit. Swadi, of
No. 1 C*onipany, left his box on the road, and departed
himself to parts unknown. Bull-necked Uchungu
folhnved suit with a b(ix of Reminoton cartrido^es.

On the 12th of Octo])er we marched four-and-a-half
miles, E. by S. The boat and crew were far ])elow,
struggling in rapids. We wished now to cross the
river to try our fortune on the N. bank. We searched
for a canoe, and saw one on the other side, ])ut the
river was 400 yards wide, and the current was too
strong against the best swinmiers in their present state.
ofdel)ilitv.

Some scouts presently discovered a canoe fastened to
an island onlv fortv vards from the south bank, which
was situate a little above our halting place. Three nien
volunteered, among wliom was Wadi Asman, of the
Pioneers, a grave man, faithful, and of much experience
in manv African lands. Twentv dollars reward was to
be the prize of success. Asman lacked the audacity
of Uledi, the coxswain of the "advance," as well as his
})old high spirit, but was a most prudent and \aluablc
man.

These three men cliose a small rapid for their venture,
that they might obtain a footing now and then on the;
rocks. At dusk two of them returned to grieve us witli
the news that Asman had tried to swim with his

t'!

1887.
Oct. 12.

forest.

It ' i

lilHR V f '

228

IN DABKEST AFRICA.

Winchester on his ])ack, and had been swept by the
strong current into a wliirlpool, and was drowned.

We were unfortunate in every respect ; our chiefs had
not yet returned, we were fearing for their fate, strong
men deserted. Our rifles were rapidly decreasing in
number. Our ammunition was being stolen. Feruzi.
the next best man to Uledi as a sailor, soldier, carrier,
good man and true, was dying from a wound inflicted
on the head by a savage's knife.

The followino- dav was also a halt. We were about
to cross the river, and we were anxious for our six
chiefs, one of whom was Rasliid bin Omar, the " father of
the people," as he was called. Equipped with only their
rifles, accoutrements and sutHcient ammunition, such
men ought to have travelled in the week that had
elapsed since our departure from Nelson's camp over a
hundred miles. If they, during that distance, could not
discover the Manyuema settlement, what chance had
we, burdened with loads, with a caravan of hungry and
despairing men, who for a week had fed on nothing but
two plantains, berries, wild fruit, and fungi ? Our men
had begun to ..jfl'er dearly during this protracted
starvation. Three had died the day before.

Towards evening Jephson appeared with the boat,
and brought a supply of Indian corn, which sutticed to
give twelve cupfuls to each white. It was a reprieve
from death for the Europeans.

The next day, the 15th, having blazed trees around
the camp, and drawn broad arrows with charcoal for
the guidance of the head men when they should return,
the Expedition crossed over to the north })ank and camped
on the upper side of a range of hills. Feruzi Ali died of
his wound soon after.

Our men were in such a desperately weak state, that I
had not the heart to (command the l^oat to be disconnected
for transport, as had f^ world's treasure been spread out
before them, they could not have exhibited greatei'
power than they were willing to g've at a word. I
stated the case fairlv to them thus : —

" You see, my men, our condition in brief is this.

• ;|

ADVICE FROM THE FAITHFUL ULEDI.

229

ound
.1 for
!turii,
mped
ied of

this.

We started from Yam1)uya 389 in numl)er and took
2:17 loads with us. We had 80 extra carriers to provide
for those who ))y rlie way might l)C('onie weak and
aiUng. We left 5() men at Ugari'owwa's Settlement,
and 52 with Captain Nelson. We should have 271 left,
hut instead of that number we have only 200 to-day,
including the chiefs who are ahsent. Seventy-one have
either died, been killed, or deserted. But there are only
150 of you fit to carry anything, and therefore we cannot
carry this boat any further. 1 say, let us sink her here
by the riverside, and let us press on to get food for
ourselves and those with Captain Nelson, who are
wondering what has become of us, before we all die in
these woods. You are the carriers of the boat — not we,
Do you speak, what shall be done unto her?"

Many sut>oestions were made bv the officers and men,
but Uledi of 'Through the Dark Continent,' always
Uledi — the ever faitliful Uledi, spoke straight to the
purpose. ' Sir, my advice is this. You go on with the
caravan and search for the Manyuema, and 1 and my
crew will work at these rajiitls, and pole, row, or drag
her on as w^e can. After I have gone two days up, if I
do not see signs of the JManyuema ] will send men after
you to keep touch with you. We cannot lose you, for a
blind man couhl follow such a track as the caravan
makes."

This suggestion w^as agreed by all to be the best, and
it was arranged that our rule of conduct should be as
Uledi sketched out.

We separated at 10 a.m., and in a short time I had
my first experience among the loftier hills of the
Aruwimi valley. 1 led the caravan northward through
the trackless forest, sheering a little to the north east to
gain a spur, and ushig animal tracks when they served
us. Progress was very slow, the undergrowth was
dense ; berries of the phrynium and fruit of the Amomum
ft'nes.sl and nux vomica, besides the huge wood beans
and fungi of all soits, were numerous, and each man
gathered a plentiful harvest. Unaccust(»nied to hills for
years, our hearts palpitated violently as we breasted the

1887.
Oct. 15

Forest.

! I-

lifi^'l

n
U \

230

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
Oct. 1.").

Forest.

' i

#r -I

stee])-\voo(le(l slopes, and cut and slaslied at tlie ob-
struc-tin^i^' ci-eepers, Imsli and plants.

All, it was a sad ni^lit, unutteraldy sad, to see so many
men strungling on l)lindly through that endless forest,
follovvinii" (me white man who was bound whither n(me
knew, whom most believed did not know himself. They
were in a veritable hell of hunger already ! What
nameless hon-ors awaited them further on none could
conjecture ? l>ut wliat matter, death comes to every
man soon or late ! Therefore we vu^'*^''^ ^^ ^ii<^ <>i^
broke thiough the bush, trampled down the plants,
wound along the crest of spurs zigzagging from
■north-east to north-west, and descending to a bowl-
like valley by a clear stream, lunched on our corn and
berries.

Durinu: our mid-dav halt, one Umari havinsj: seen
some magnificent and ripe feiiessi at the top of a tree
thirty feet high, essayed to climb it, but on gaining that
height, a Immch or his strength yielded and he tumlded
headlong upon the heads of two other men wIkj were
waitin<>- to seize the fruit. Strange to sav, none of
them were very seriously injured. LImari was a little
lame in the hip and one of those up<m whom he fell
complained of a pain in the chest.

At 3A\0 after a terrible struggle through a suffocating
wilderness of arums, amonia, and bush, we came to a
dark amphitheatral glen and at the bottom found a
camp just deserted l)y the natives, and in such hot haste
tliat thev had thous>ht it best not t(j burden themselves
with their treasures. Surelv some divinitv provided for
us always in the most stressful hours. Two l)ushels of
Indian corn, and a Ijushel of beans awaited us in this
camp.

My poor donkey from Zanzibar showed symptoms
of surrender. Arums and amoma every day since
June 28th were no fit food for a (hiinty Zanzibar ass,
therefore to end his misery I shot him. The meat was
as carefully shared as though it were the finest veiuson,
foi' a wild and famished mob threatened to defy dis-
cipline. When the meat was fairly served a free fight

MY DONKEY IS SHOT FOB FOOD.

231

fell

to a
liiil a
haste
;eive.s
k1 for
lels of
this

|)toms

since

ass,

It was

[lisou,

V dis-

fight

took phice over the skin, the l)()nes were taken up and
crushed, the hoofs were boiled for hours, there was
nothing left of my faithful animal l)ut the spilled blood
and hair ; a pack of hyaenas could not have made a more
thorough disposal of it. That constituent of the human
being which marks him as superior to all others of the
animal creation was so deadened by hunger that our men
had become merely carnivorous bipeds, inclined to be as
ferocious as any beast of })rey.

On the Ifith we crossed through four deep gorges
i»ne after another, through wonderful growths of phrynia.
The trees frecjuently ])ore feiu'ssi nearly ripe, one foot
lono' and eio'ht inches in diameter. Some of this fruit
was e({ual to pineapple, it was certainly \\ Uolesome.
Even the rotten fruit was not rejected. When tlie
fi'm'sKi were absent, the wood-bean tree flourished and
kindly sprinkled the ground with its fruit. Nature
seemed to c(Hifess chat the wanderers had borne enoui»h
of pain and grief. The deepest solitudes showed
increasing tenderness for the weary and long-suffering.
Ihe phrynia gave us their brightest red berries, the
amoma furnished us with the finest and ripest scarlet fruit,
t\\Q foh'ssl were in a state of perfection, tlie wo<Kl-})eans
were larger and fatter, the streams of the wood glens
were clear and cold ; no enemv was in siiiht, nothino' was
to be feared but huni>er, and nature did its best with
her unknown treasures, shaded us with her fi-agrant and
loving shades, and whispered to us unspeakable things
sweetly and tenderly.

During the mid-day halt the men discussed our pro-
spects. They said, with solemn shaking of their heads,
" Know you that such and such a man is dead ? that the
other is lost I another will probably fall this afternoon !
the rest will })erish to-morrow ! " The trumpet sum-
moned all to their feet, to march on, and strive, and
press forward to the goal.'

JIalf-an-hour later the pioneers broke through a
growth of amoma, and stepped on a road. And lo !
on every tree we saw the peculiar "'blaze" of tiie
Manyuema, a discovery that was transmitted by every

1887.
Oct. 15.

Forest.

!§*!i|il-

232

y.V DAIiKEtiT AFRICA.

1887.
Oct. 16.

Forest.

V '■

!»r

voice IVoin tlie lioad to the rear of the column, and was
received with jubilant cheei's.

" Which way, sir V asked the delighted pioneers.

" Right turn of course," 1 replied, feeling far more
glad than any, and fuller of longings for the settlement
that was to end this terrible period, and shorten the
misery of Nelson and his dark foUowers.

" Please God," thev said, " to-morrow or the next dav
we shall have food," which meant that after suffering
unappeasable hunger for 'M^C) hours, they could patiently
wait if it pleased God another thirty-six or sixty hours
more.

We were all friiihtfullv thin, the whites not so much
reduced as our coloured men. We thought of the
future and abounded with hope, though deep depression
foHowod any inspection of the people. We regretted
tliat our followers did not ha^e greater faith in us.
Hunger followed })y despair killed many. Many freely
expressed their thoughts and declared to one another
plainly that we knew not whither we were marching. And
thev were not far wrono-, for wdio knew what a dav
might bring forth in unexplored depths of woods. But
as they said, it was their fate to follow us, and therefore
they followed fate. They had ftired badly and had
suffered great! v. It is hard to walk at all when weak-
ness sets in through emptiness ; it is still worse to do
so when burdened with sixty pounds weight. Over
fifty were yet in fair condition ; 150 were skeletons
covered wdtli ashy grey skins, jaded and worn out, with
every sign of wretchedness printed deep in their eyes,
in their bodies and movements. These could hardly
do more than creep on and moan, and shed tears and
sigh, j\Iy only dog " Randy," alas ! how feeble he had
become ! Meat he had not tasted — except with me of
the ass's meat — for weeks. Parched corn and beans
were not fit for a terrier, and fencs.si and mabcuf/u, and
such other acid fruit he disdained, and so he declined,
until he became as gaunt as the pariah of a Moslem.
Stairs had ne\'er failed me. Jephson every now and
then had l)een fortunate in discoveries of grain treasures,

efore

had
weak-
to do
Over
etons
with
eyes,
iirdly

and
e had
lie f)f
beans

and
lined,
)slem.

and
sures,

WE STRIKE THE TRACK OF THE MANYUEMA. :im

and always showed an indomitable front, and Parke was
ever strivintj;, patient, clieerful and gentle. Deep, deep
down to undiscovered (le[)ths our Hte in the forest had
enabled me to penetrate human natuie with all its
endurance and virtues.

Alono' the track of the Manyuenia it was easy to travel.
Sometimes we came to a maze of roads ; but once the
general direction was found, there was no dithculty to
point to the right one. It appeared to be well travelled,
and it was clearer every mile that we were appioaching
a populous settlement. As recent tracks became moi'e
numerous, the bush seemed more broken into, with many
a halt and manv wavward stra vinos. Here and there
trees had been lopped of their branches. ( ording vines
lay frequently on the track ; pads for native cairiers
had often been dropped in haste. Most of the morning
was exjiended in crossing a score of lazy, oozy rillets,
which caused large breadths of slime-covere(1 Avamp.
Wasps attacked the colum]i at one crossing, and stujig a
man into high fever, and being in such an emaciated
condition there was little chance of his recovery. After a
march of seven miles south-east wardly we halted on the
afternoon of the 1 7tli.

The night was ushered by a tempest which thi'eatened
to uproot the forest and bear it to the distant west,
accompanied by floods of rain, and a severe cold
temperature. Nevertheless, fear of famishing drove us
to beo-in the march at an eai'lv hour on the following'
day. In aJKUit an hour and-a-half we stood on the
confines of a large clearing, but the fog was so dense
that we could discern nothing further than 200 feet in
front. Resting awhile to debate upon our course, we
heard a sonorous voice singing in a language none of
us knew, and a lusty hail and an argument with what
appeared to be some humour. As this was not a hmd
where al)ori<iines would dare to })e so lioht-hearted and
frivolous, this singing we believed could proceed from
no other people than those who knew they had nothing
to fear. I tired a Winchester rapidly in the air. The
response by heavy -loaded muskets revealed that these

,i!

1K«7.
Oct. 16.

Forest.

i ,;!!

JN DAliKEST A I'll II A.

18S7. wore the Manvnemn wlioni we had been ho loiio- seekiusr,
■ ''• and scarcely had their echoes ceased their reverlx'ratiniis
than the caravan relieved its joy hy lon<;' continued
huriahs.

We descended the slope of the cleai'inn' to a little
valley, and from all sides of an op[)()site slope were seen
lines of men and women issuinjj; to welcome us with
friendly hails. We looked to the ri<4ht and left and
saw thriving fields, Indian corn, rice, sweet potatoes and
beans. The well-known sounds of Arab iireetinff

i\\

W .

KILONGA LONGAS STATION.

and liospita])le tenders of friendship) ])nrst upon our
ears ; and our hands were soon clasped by lusty hu<>e
fellows, who seemed to enjoy life in the wilds as much
as thev couhl have enioved it in their own lands.
Tliese came principally from ^lanyuema, though their
no less stout slaves, armed with percussion muskets and
carbine, echoed heartily their superiors' sentiments and
professions

We were conducted up the sloping clearing through
fields of luxuriant grain, by troops of men and

TJiAyKsdiviNa.

236

ougli
and

y()un«^'sters who were iiTcprcssihly frolicsome in their
joy at the new arrivals and dawniny' promise of a
holiday. On ai'i'ival at the viilau'e we were invited to
take onr seats in deej) shady verandahs where we soon
liad to answer to hosts of (jiiestions and con^'ratnlations.
As the caravan tiled past ns to its allotted (piai'tei's
which men were appointed to show, nnmerous wei'e the
pi'aises to (lod, uttei'ed by them for our mai'velloiis
escapes from the terrihle wilderness tliat stretched from
their settlement of Ipoto to the Basopo Cataract, a
distance of li)7 miles, pi'aises in which in our inmost
liearts each one of uur sorely tried (;aravan most heartily
joined.

1MH7.

(Vt. 17.
Ipoto.

our

nine

nuch

iiids.

their

and

!i . ;!;

' i!

236

IN DARKEST AFItlVA.

CHAPTER X.

WITH THE MANYUEMA AT IPOTO.

ill.

1887.
Oct. IH

Ipoto.

The ivory hunter:, at Ipoto — Their mode of proceeding — The Manyueiria
headmen and their raids— Eemedy for preventing whole.'^ale deva.sta-
tions — Cru.sade preaclied by ('ardinal Lavigerie — Our Zanzibar
chiefs —Anxiety respecting Captain Nelson and Jiis followers — Our
men sell their weapons for food — Theft of Rifles — Their return
demanded — IJledi turns up with news of the missing chiefs — Con-
tract drawn up with the Manyuema headmen for the relief of
Captain Nelson — Jephson's report on his journey — Rci)ortsof Captain
Nelson and Surgeon Parke — The process of blood brotherhood
between myself and Ismuili — We leave Ipoto.

This comiiiunity of ivory hunters established at Ipoto
liad arrived, five months pi-evious to our coming, from
the banks of the Luahiba, from a point situated })e-
tween tlie exits of the Lowwa and tlie Leopold into
the great river. The journey had occupied them seven-
and-a-half months, and they had seen neither grass nor
open ('ountry, nor even heard of them daring their
wanderinos. Thev had halted a month at Ivinnena on
the Lindi. and h?'d built a station-liouse for their Chief
Kilonga-Longa. who, when he had joined them with the
main body, sent on about 200 guns and 1200 slave
carriers to strike fuither in a n )rth-easterly direction,'
to discover some other prosperous settlement far in
advance <d him. whence thev could sallvout in bands to
destrov. burn and enslave natives in excliani>e for
ivory. Through continual fighting, and the carelessness
whi(^h the unbalanced mind is so apt to fall into after
one or more happy successes, they had decreased in
number within seven-and-a-half months into a force of
about ninety guns. On reaching the liCnda IJiver they
had heard of the settlements of Tuarrowwa, and sheered

THE IVORY nVNTKRS AT IPOTO.

237

Ipoto
from
d })e-
iiito
;eveii-
ss nor
their
na on
Chief
h the
shive
tion,'
ir in
Is to
tor
ssness
after
(1 in
rce of
they
leered

1(1
•e

off the limits of his raidinjj;- circle to obtain a centre of
their own, and, crossing the Lenda, they succeeded in
reaching the south bank of the Ituri, a})out south of
their present settlement at Ipoto.

As the natives would not assist them over the river
to the north bank, they cut down a big tree and with
axe and fire hollowed it into a sizeal)le canoe which
conveyed them across to the north })ank to Ipoto.
Since that date they had launched out on one of the
most sanguinary and destru(^tive careers to which even
Tippu-Tib's or Tagamoyo's career ofler ])ut po<jr com-
parison. Towards tlie Lenda and Ihuru Rivers, they
had levelled into black ashes every settlement, their
raue for destruction had even been vented on the
plaintain groves, e^'ery canoe on the rivers liad l)een
split into pieces, every island had been searched, and
into the darkest recesses, whither a slight track could be
traced, they had penetrated with only one dominating
passion, which was to kill as many of the men and
capture as many of the women and children as craft and
cruelty would enable them. Jlowever far northward or
eastward these people had reached, one said nine days*
march, another fifteen days ; or wherever tliev had lione
they had done precisely as we had seen between the
Lenda River and Ipoto, and reduced the forest land into
a howling wilderness, and throughout all the immense
area liad left scarcely a hut standing.

What these destroyers had left of gi'oves and planta-
tions of plaintain and })ananas, manioc, and corn-fields,
the elephant, chimpanzee, and monkeys had trampled
and crushed into decaying and })utrid nuick, and in
their places had sprung uj), with the swiftness of mush-
rooms, whole hosts of large-leafed plants native to the
soil, briars, calamus and bush, which the natives had in
times past suppressed with their knives, axes and hoes.
Witli each season the bush grew more robust and taller,
and a few seasons only were wanted to (;over all traces
of former hal)itation and labour.

Frcmi Ipoto to the Lenda the distan<'e l)y our track is
105 miles. Assume that this is the distance eastward to

1887.
Oct. 18.

Ipoto.

'il p

I. ' !'

■ .ii

1887.
Oct. 18.

Ipoto.

238

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

wliic'li their ravages have extended, {ind northward and
southward, and we liave something like 44,000 s(|uare
miles. AVe know what Ugarrowwa has done from the
preceding pages, what he was still doin^ with all the
vigour of his mind, and we know what the Aral)s in the
Stanley Falls are doing on the Lumami and what sort
of devil's work Mumi ]\Iuhala, and Bwana JMohamed
are perpetrating around Lake Ozo, the source of the
Lulu, and, once we know where their centres are
located, we may with a pair of compasses draw great
circles round each, and park oti" areas of 40,000 and
50,000 s(piare miles into which half-a-dozen resolute
men, aided by their hundreds of bandits, have divided
about three-fourths of the (ireat Upper Congo Forest
for the sole purpose of murder, and Ijecoming heirs to a
few hundred tusks of ivory.

At the date of our arrival at Ipoto, there were the
Manvuema headmen, phvsicallv fine stalwart fellows,
named Ismailia, Khamisi, and Sangarameni, who were
responsible to Kilonga-Longa, their chief, for the followers
and operations entrusted to their charge. At alternate
periods each set out from Ipoto to his own special
sub-district. Thus, to Ismailia, all roads from Ipoto to
Ibwiri and east to the Ituri were given as his special
char<>;e. Khamisi's area was aloiiii; the line of the
Ihuru, then east to Il»wiri, to Sangarameni all the land
east and west })etween the Ibiiia and Ihuru atHuents of
the Ituri. Altogether there were 150 fiohtino- men, but
only a])out 90 were armed with guns. Kilonga-Longa
was still at Kinnena, and was not expected for three
months yet.

The fighting men under the three leaders consisted of
Bakusu, Balegoa, and Basongora, youths who were
trained by the Manyuema as raideis in the forest region,
in the same manner as in 1876, Manyuema youths had
})een trained bv Arabs and Waswahili of the east coast.
We see in this extraordinary increase in number of
raiders in the Upper CV)ngo basin the fiuits of the Arab
policy f)f killing off tlie adult aborigines and presei'ving
the children. The girls are distributed among the Arab,

THE MANYUKMA HEADMEN AND THEIR RAIDS. 280

the

Swahili and Manyuema harems, the boys are trained
to eaiTV arms and are exercised in the use of tlieni.
When they are grown tall and strong en<-'\gh they are
rewarded with wives from the female servants of the
harem, and then are admitted partners in these l)loody
ventures. So many parts of the profits are due to the
great proprietor, such as Tippu-Tib, or Said })in Alted, a
less number becomes the due of the headmen, and the
remainder becomes the property of the bandits. At
other times large ivories, over 35 lbs. each, become the
property of the proprietor, all over 20 lbs. to 35 lbs.
belong to the headmen, scraps, pieces and young ivory
are permitted to be kept by the lucky finders. Hence
every member of the caravan is inspired to do his best.
The caravan is well armed and well manned by the pro-
prietor, who stays at home on the Congo or Lualal)a river
indulging in rice and pilaf and the excesses of his harem,
the headuien, inspired l)y greed and cupidity, become
ferocious and stern, the bandits tiing themselves upon a
settlement without mercy to oljtain the largest shai'c of
loot, of chihlren, flocks, poultry, and ivory.

All this would })e clearly beyond their power if they
possessed no gunpowder. Not a mile beyond their
settlements would the Arabs and their followers dare
venture. It is more than likely that if gunpowder was
prohibited entry into Africa there would be a geiu'i'iil
and (|uick migration to the sea of all Ara})s fi'om inner
Africa, as the native (*hiefs would be immeasurably
stronger than any com))ination of Arabs ai-med with
spears. What possible chance couhl Tippu-Tib, Abed bin
Salim, Ugarrowwa and Kilonga-Longa have against the
Basongoi'a and l^akusu ? How could the Arabs of L'jiji
resist the Wajiji and Warundi, or how could those of
Unyamyembe' live among the bowmen and speai-men of
Unyamwezi ?

There is only one remedy for these wliolesale devas-
tations of African aborigines, and that is the soh'mn
<'oml)ination of England, (Jermany, France, Portugal,
South and East Africa, and Congo State against the
introduction of gunpowder into any part of the

1887.
Oct. 18.

Ipoto.

(*;(::

240

IN DARKEST AFIi/CA.

1887.
Oct. 18.

Ipoto.

«l

1 i

1' '

: !
i i 1

Continent except for the use of their own agents,
sokliers, {iiul emph)y(j.s, or seizing upon every tusk (jf
ivory })rought out, as there is not a single piece nowa-
days which has l)een gained hiwfully. Every tusk,
piece and scrap in the possession of an Aral) trader has
})een steeped and dyed in ])h)od. Every pound weight
has cost the life of a man, woman or child, for every five
pounds a hut has been burned, for every two tusks a
whole village has been destroyed, every twenty tusks
have been ol)taiiied at the price of a district with all its
people, villages and plantations. It is simply incredible
that, ])ecauKe ivory is re(]uired fqv ornaments or Inlliard
games, the rich heart of Africa should be laid waste at
this late year of the nineteenth century, signalized as it
has been by so much advance, that populations, tribes
and nations should be utterlv destroved. Whom after
all does this bloody seizure of iv(>ry enrich ? Only a
few dozens of half-castes, Aral) and Negro, who, if due
justice were dealt to them, should be made to sweat out
tlie remainder of their piratical lives in the severest
penal servitude.

On arriving in civilization after these terrible dis-
coveries, I was told of a crusade that had been preached
by Cardinal Lavigerie, and of a rising desire in Europe to
effect l)y force of arms in the old crusader style and to
atta<'k the Arabs and their followers in their strongholds
in Central Africa. It is just such a scheme as might liave
been ex[)ected from men wIk, applauded Oordoii when
he set out with a white wand and six followers to rescue
all the garrisons of the Soudan, a task which 14,000 of
his countrvmen, under one of the most skilful Eimlish
generals, would have fou)id impossible at that date.
We pride ourselves upon being practical and sensible
men, and yet every now and then let some enthusiast —
whether Oladstone, (Jordon, Lavigerie or another —
speak, and a wave of Quixotism spreads over many
lands. The last thing I heard in connection with this
mad project is that a band of 100 Swedes, who have
subscribed £25 each, are about to sail to some part of
the East Coast of Africa, and proceed to Taiiganika to

ixy.

ANXJETl' IIESI'ECTIXG NELSOX AXD THE .S/r/v' CAMP. 241

dis-

ached

)pe to

nd t(3

lolds

have

when

escue

100 of

^lish

date.

isible

ist—

ler —

many

this

have

It of

f'ommenee ostensibly the extirpation of the Arab shive- i887.
trader, ))ut in reality to eonnnit suicide. ^*^*- ^^'

However, these mattei's are n(»t the oltject of this *'"'"'
cliapter. We are about to have a more intimate acipiaint-
ance with the morals of the jManyuema, and to under-
stand them better than we ever expected we should.

They had not heard a word or a whisper of our Head-
men whom we had despatched as couriers to obtain relief
for Nelson's party, and, as it was scarcely possible that
a starvino- caravan would accomplish the distance be-
tween Nelson's Camp and Ipoto before six active and
intelligent men, we began to fear that among the lost
men we shorM have to number our Zanzibari chiefs.
Tlieir track was clear as far as the crossing-place of the
1 4tli and loth Deceml)er. It was most probalde that
the witless men would continue up the river until they
were overpowered by the savages of some unknown
village. ()ur minds were never free from anxietv
respecting ('a})t. Nelson and his followers. Thirteen
(lavs had already ela})sed since our parting. During this
period their position was not worse than ours had been.
The forest was around them as it was around us. They
were not loaded down as we were. The most active
men could search ab(>ut for food, or they could employ
their canoes to ferry themselves over to the scene of the
forage of the '3rd December, one day's journey by land,
oi' an hour by watei'. liei'ries and fungi altounded on
rlic crest of the hills above their camp as in othei- })arts.
Vet we were anxious, and one of my fii'st duties was to
try and engage a relief party to take food to Nelson's
(•amp. 1 was 2)romised that it should be arranged next
day.

For ourselves we received three goats and twelve
baskets of Indian corn, which, when distributed, gave
six ears of corn per man. It furnished us with two good
meals, and many must have felt revived and refreshed,
as I did.

On the first day's halt at Tpoto we suffered consider-
able lassitude. Nature either furnishes a stomach and
no food, or else furnishes a feast and robs us of all

VOL. I. Q

242

IN DARKEIST AFRICA.

1887.
Oct. IH.

Ijioto.

ajjpetite. On the duy ])ef()re, and on this, we had fed
sumptuously on rice and pihif and goat stew, ])ut now
we began to suti'er from many illnesses. The masticators
had forgotten their oltice, and the digestive organs
disdained the dainties, and atiected to be deranged.
Seriously, it was the natural result of over-eating ; corn
nuish, grits, pan-lied corn, beans and meat are solids
re(piiring gastric juice, which, after being famished for
so many days, was not in sutticient supply for the eager
demand made for it.

The Manyuenia had aliout .300 or 400 acres under
corn, five acres under rice, and as many under beans.
Sugar-(;ane was also grown largely. They possessed
about 100 goats — all stolen from the natives. In their
store-huts they had immense supplies of Indian corn
drawn from some village near the Iliuru, and as yet
unsl'ucked. Their banana plantations were well stocked
with iruit. Indeed the condition of every one in the
settlement was prime.

It is but ri«>ht to acknowledtje that we were received
on the first day with ostentatious kindness, but on the
third day something of a strangeness sprang up between
us. Their (cordiality probably rose from a belief that
our loads contained some desirable articles, liut unfortu-
nately the first-class beads that would have suffi(;ed for
the purchase of all their stcK'k of corn were lost by the
capsizing of a canoe near Panga Falls, and the gold
braided Arab burnooses wcr-' stolen below Ugarrowwa,
by deserters. Disappointed at not receiving the expected
(juantity of fine cloth or fine beads, they proceeded
systematically to tempt our men to sell everything they
possessed, shirts, caps, daoles, waist cloths, knives, belts,
to whicli, being their personal property, we couhl make no
objection. But the lucky owners of such articles having
been seen by others less fortunate, hugely enjoying
varieties of succulent food, were the means of inspiring
the latter to envy and finally to theft. The unthrifty
and reckless men sold their ammunition, accoutrements,
})ill hooks, ramrotls, and finally their Remington Rifles.
Thus, after escaping the terrible dangers ot starvation

I I ';

corn

eager

<Tokl

OUR MEN HELL THEIR WEAI'OX.S FOR FOOD.

243

and such injuries as the many savage triljes could infli(;t
on us, we were in near peril of becoming slaves to the
Aral) slaves.

Despite entreaties for c(n-n, we could obtain no more
than two ears per man per day. I promised to pay
triple price for everything received, on the arri\'al of
the rear column, but with these people a present
possession is better than a prospective one. They
professed to doubt that we had cloth, and to believe
that we had travelled all this distance to fioht them.
We represented on the other hand that all we needed
were six ears of corn per day during nine days' rest.
Three rifles disappeared. The Headmen denied all
knowledge of them. We were compelled to reflect that,
if it were true, they suspected we entertained sinister
intentions towards them, that surely the safest and
craftiest policy would be to purchase our arms secretly,
and disarm us altogether, when they could enforce what
terms they pleased on us.

On the 2 1st six more rifles were sold. At this rate
the Expedition would l)e wrecked in a short time,
for a body of men without arms in the heart oi the
great forest, with a host of men to the eastward and a
large body to the westward depending upon them, were
lost beyond hope of salvation. Both advance and
retreat were equally cut off, and no resource would be
left but absolute submission to the chief who chose to
assert himself to be our master or Death. Therefore I
})r()p()sed for my part to struggle strongly against su(;h
a fate, and either to provoke it instantly, or ward it off
l)y prompt action.

A muster was made, the five men without arms were
sentenced to twenty-five lashes each and to be tied up.
After a considera])le fume and fuss had been exhibited,
a man stepped up, as one was a])out to undergo punish-
ment and begged permission to speak.

"This man is innocent, sir.'' " I have his rifle in my
hut, 1 seized it last night fnmi Juma (one of the cooks),
son of Forkidi, as he l)ronuht it to a Manvuema to sell,
it may be Juma stole it from this man. I know that

1887.
Oct. IS.

Ipoto.

s:-'.-;

(h:

lit!

244

7.V DABKEST AFJUCA.

18S7.
Oct. -Jl.

Iliotn.

all these men have pleaded that their rifles have ')een
stolen by others, while they slept. It may Ije true as
in this ease." ^Meantime »Juma had Hown, 'out was
found hiter on hidino- in the corn fields. lie ecmfessed
that he had stolen two, and had taken them to the
informer to be disposed of for corn, or a goat, but it was
solely at the instigation of the inf' ymer. It may have
been true, for scarcely (me of them but was ([uite
cap-'i ' of such a course, but the story was hinie, and
inrrru^onable in this case and was rejected. Another
] :V' , i\e up and recognized Juma as the thief who had
ab,irract«>' his rifle — and having proved his statement
and confession having been made— the prisoner was
sentenced to immediate execution, which was accord-
ingly carried out by hanging.

It now being pi'oved beyond a doubt that the
Manyuema were purchasing our rifles at the rate of a
few ears of corn per gun, I sent for the head men, and
make a formal demand for theii" instant restitution,
otherwise they would be responsible for the conse-
quences. They were inclined to be wrathy at first.
They drove the Zanzibaris ivoiw the village out into the
clearing, and there was eveiy pros])ect of a fight, or as
was very probable, that the P]x})edition was al)Out to be
wrecked. Our men, being so utterly demoralized, and
utterly In-oken in spirit from what they had undergone,
were not to ])e relied on. and as they were ready to sell
themselves for c(jrn — there was little chance of our
winning a victory in case of a struggle. It requires
fulness of stomach to be brave. At the same time
death was sure to conclude us in any event, for to
remain (juiescent under such circumstances tended to
produce an ultimate appeal to arms. With those
eleven rifles, 3000 rounds of ammunition had been sold.
No option presented itself to me than to be firm in my
demand for the rifles ; it was reiterated, under a threat
that I would proceed to take other means — and as a
proof of it they had but to look at the body hanging
from a tree, for if we proceeded to such extremities as
putting to death one of our own men, they certainly

THEFT OF orji lUFLES.

245

oiiojht to know that we sliould feel ourselves perfectly
prepared to take vengeanee on those who had really
caused his death l)y keeping open do(jrs to receive stolen
pn^perty.

After an hour's stormino' in their villaoe thev '. 'ouoht
five ritles to nie, and to my ast(jnishment pointed the
sellers of them. Had it not been impolitic in the first
place to drive things to the extreme, I should have
declined receiving one of them back before all had been
returned, and could 1 have been assured of the aid of
fifty men I should have declared for a fight ; but just at
this juncture Uledi, the faithful coxswain of the
Advance, strode into camp, \ n/»ing news that the boat
was safe at the landing-placu ' Ipoto and of his dis-
covery of the six missin*., chiefs in a starving and
bewildered state four miles Irom the settlement. This
produced a revulsion of fr dings. Gratitude for the
discovery of my lost r en, the sight of Uledi — the
knowledge that after aix, despite the perverseness of
human nature, I had some faithful fellows, left me for
the time speechless.

Then the tale was told to Uledi, and he undertook the
business of eradicating the hostile feelings of the Man-
yuema, and pleaded with me to let bygones be byg<)iies
on the score that the dark days were ended, and happy
days he was sure were in store for us.

For surely, dear master," he said, " after the longest
night comes day, and why not sunshine after darkness
with us ? I think of how many long nights and dark days
we pulled through in the old times when we pierced
Africa together, and now let your heart be at peace.
Please God we shall foroet our troubles before h)n(2;."

The culprits were ordered to be bound until morning.
Uledi, with his bold frank way, sailed straight into the
aftections of the Manyuema headmen. Presents of corn
were brought to me, apologies were made and accepted.
The corn was distributed among the people, and we
ended this troublesome day, which had l)rougiit us all to
the vero;e of dissolution, in much oreater content than
could have been hoped from its omincnis commencement.

1887.
Oct. -Jl.

Ipoto.

Ijioto.

^14

1 t;

246

IN D AUK EST AFRICA.

1887. Our loiiL!; waiuleriiii'' i-hiefs who were sent as heralds

Oct. 21}. of om- ap[)r()acli to [poto arrived on Sunday the 2.'{rd.
They surely had made hut a fruitless (juest, and they
found us old residents of the place they had been des-
patched to seek. J laggard, wan and feeble from seven-
teen days feeding on what the uninhai>ited wihlerness
aflorded, they were also greatly abashed at their failure.
They had reached the Ibina Kiver which Hows from the
S.E., and struck it two days above the confluence with
the Ituri ; they had then followed the tributary down to
the junction, had found a canoe and rowed across to the
right bank, where they had nearly perished from hunger.
Fortunately Uledi had discovered them in time, had
informed them of the direction of Ipoto, and they had
crawled as they best could to our camp.

Before night, Sangarameni, the third heau man, ap-
peared from a raid with fifteen fine ivories. He said
he had penetrated a twenty days' journey, and from a
high hill had viewed an open country all grass land.

Out of a supply 1 obtained on this day I was able to
give two ears of corn per man, and to store a couple of
baskets for Nelson's party. But events were not pro-
gressing smoothly, I could obtain no favourable answer
to my entreaty for a relief party. One of our men had
been speared to death by the Manyuema on a charge of
stealing corn from the fields. One had been hanged,
twenty had been flogged for stealing ammuniti(m,
another had received i^OO cuts from the Manyuema for
attempting to steal. If only the men could have
reasoned sensibly during these days, how (piickly
matters couhl have been settled otherwise !

I had spoken and warned them with all earnestness
to " endure, and cheer up," and that there were two
ways of settling all this, but that 1 was afraid of them
only, for they preferred the refuse of the ^lanyuema to
our washes and woj-k. The Manvuema were proving- to
them wiiat they might expect of them ; and with us
the worst days were over ; all we had to do was to
march bex'ond the utmost reach of the ^lanvuema raids,
when we should all become as robust as they. Bah !

t I

MANYl'h'MA JlKADMh'X AM) THE IlELIEF OF KELSON. 247

f iniiilit MS well liavt' addressed my appoals to tlio trees
of the forest as unto wretches so sodden with despair.

The iManyueina had promised me three several times
1)V this <hi\' to send eii-htv men as a relief nartv to
Nelson's camp, Imt the arrival of San^arameni, and
misunderstandings, and other trifles, had disturbed the
airangements.

On the 24th firing was heard on the other si(h> of the
river, and, under the plea that it indicated the arrival of
Kiloiiga-Longa. the relief caravan was again prevented
from setting out.

The next (hiy, those who had fired, arrived in camp,
and proved to he the Manyuema knaves whom we had
seen on the 2nd of October. Out of fifteen men they
had h)st one maji from an jtrrow woun<L They liad
wandered for twenty-four (hiys to find the track, hut
having no other h)ads than provisions these liad lasted
with economy for fifteen days, 1)ut for the last nine days
they had subsisted on nmshi'ooms and wild fruit.

On this evening I succeeded in drawing a conti'act, and
getting the three headmen to agree to the following : —

"To send thirty men to the relief of C*aptain Nelsim,
with 400 ears of corn for his i)Hrty.

"To provide C^aptain Nelson and Surgeon Parke, and
all sick men unable to work in the fields, with pro-
visions, until our return from Lake Albert.

" The serviee of a guide from Jpoto to T})wiri, for
which they were to be paid one bale and a half of elotli
on the arrival of the rear column."

It was drawn up in Arabic by Rashid, and in Englisii
])y myself, and witnessed by tlr'ee men.

For some fancy articles of personal })roperty I suc-
ceeded in purchasing for Mr. .lephson and (\ipt. Nelson
250 ears of Indian corn, and for 250 })istol cartridges 1
bought another (juantity, and for an ivory-framed mirror
from a dressing-case purchased two l)askets full ; for
three bottles of ottar of roses obtained thi'ee fowls, so
that I had 1000 ears of corn for the relieving and
relieved parties.

On the 2()tli Mr. MounteneyJeplison, forty Zanzil)aris,

1ft87.
Oct. 24.

Jpoto,

/: \%

24S

AV DAliKKST AFliJCA.

m^'

#!i!f

I, I

1887. iind thirty Maiiyucnui slavos startcMl on tlicir joiirncv to
Oct. 26. J^J^^l^,),^\^ vnn\[). I caiuiot do iR'ttcr tlifiii introduce
^*'"' Mr. .lephson's report on his journey.

" Arab Scttlcinont iit Ipoto,
" Deau Sir " -^'"'^'"''"''* ■!'/'» 1HH7.

" I U't't lit midday on Octolu'i- 'JGth, and arrivod at tlit> river and
crossed ovur with MO Maiiyncma and lO Zaii/.iltaris under my charge tlio
same afternoon and canipcd on landing. The next morning we started
ot!" early and reached tlie camp, wliere we had crossed tlie river, when we
wer(! wandering altout in a starving condition in scuirch of the Arahs,
l»y midday tho signs and arrow heads we had markeil on the trees to
show tlie chiefs we had crossed were still fresh. 1 reached another of
our cfimps that night. The next day we did nearly three of our foruuM'
marches. The camp wherc^ Feruzi AH had got his death wound, and
where wo liad si)ent tliree such miserable da.ys of hunger and anxiety,
hioked very dismal as we j)assed through it. J)iiring the day we passed
the skeletons of three of our men who had fallen down and died from
sheer starvation, they were grim reminders of the misery through wiiich
we had so lately gone

" On the morning of the 2'Jtli I started off as soon as it was day-
light, determining to reach Nelson that day and decide the ([uestion
as to his being yet alive. Accompanied by one man only, I soon found
myself far aliead of my followers. As 1 neared Nelson's camp a
feverish anxiety to know his fate jujssessed me, and I pushed on through
streams and creeks, by banks and bogs, over which our starving people
had slowly toiled with the boat sections. All were passed by ipiickly
to-day, and again the skeletons in the road testified to the trials through
which we had passed. As 1 came down the hill into Nelson's camp, not
a sound was heard but the groans of two dying men in a hut close by,
the whole place had a deserted and woe-begone look. I came quietly
round the tent and found Nelson sitting there; we clasped hands, and
then, poor fellow! ho turned away and sobbed, and nuittered something
about being very weak.

" Nelson was greatly changed in ai)pearance, being worn and haggard
looking, with ileep lines about his eyes and mouth. He told nic;
his anxiety had been intense, as day after day i)assed and no relief
came; ho had at last made up his mind that something had hapjieiied
to lis, and that we had been compelled to abiuidon him. He had
lived chiefly upon fruits and fungus which his two i)oys had brought
in from day to day. Of the tifty-two men you left witlj him, only
Ave remained, of whom two were in a ilying state. All tlie rest had
either deserted him or were dead.

" Jle has himself given you an account of his losses from death
and desertion. I gave him the food you sent him, which I had
carefully watched on the way, and he had one of the chickens and
some i)orridge cooked at once, it was the first nourishing food he
had tasted for many days. After I had liei'ii thert.' a couiile of hours
my ])Cople came in and all crowded round the tent to offer him their
congratulations.

" You remember Nelson's feet had been very bad for some days before
we left him, he had hardly left the tent the whole time he had been here.
At one time ho had bad ten ulcers on one foot, but he had now recovered
from them in a great measure and said ho thought he would be able to
march slowly. On the cJUth we began the return march. 1 gave out

BEl'Oins OF ,IKI'IIS(^S, Xh'LSON, AM) I'AUKE. 24!>

most of the loads to the Manyurma iiiul Zaiizilniris, l)ut was oltIif;;('(l to
Iciivc tliirttcii lioxt's of mmimnition aiid suvcii otlior loads, those 1 l>uriud,
and Parkin will Ix; able to ft'tcli tl cm later on.

" Nelson did tlie iniirclies lietter than I ex|)e('ted, thoufih he was mucli
knoekecl up at the end of each day. On the return march \\v crossed
the river lower down and made our way up th(> rijiht hank and
struck your old roa<l a day's march from the Arah camp. Here ii^'ain we
))asscd more skeletons, at ono place there wen- three within 'J(H) yards
of each other.

" On the tlfih day, that is November Hrd, wc reached tho Aral) camp,
and Nelson's relief was accomplished. He has already jtickecl up
wonderfully in sjtite of the mardiiiif,', hut he caiuiot ^et sleep at ni^^lit
and is .still in a nervous and hit^hly struiij;; state; the rest in the A rait
camp will, I trust, set him \\\) a;,'aiii. It is certain that in his state of
health he could not have tollowed us in our wanderings in search of
food, he must have fallen by the way.

" I am i*tc., iV'c.
"(Signed) A. J. Molntkney jKi'Mhoy."

The followiiinj are the reports of Captain Nelson and

Surgeon Parke.

" Arab Villape, T|ioto,

" {Sih Xonmhrr, lb87.

"Dk.\u Sir,

" Mr. Jei)hson arrived at iny camp on the 'i'Jth October with the
men for the loads and with the food you sent for me. Many thanks for
the food, it was badly needed. He will tell you what state he found mo
in and of the few men still alive.

" You left me on tho Gth October last; on the morning of the 9th I got
up a canoe and sent Umari and thirteen of the best men I could find
(they wei-e all very bad) over the river to look for food. On the 8th
Assani (No. 1 Company) came to me and said that he had returned from
the column sick. Same day Uledi's brother came into camp, told me he
had lost the road while looking for bananas, near the camj), where we
met the Manyuema. On the 10th I founil that Juma, one of Stairs'
chiefs, h.ad cleared in the night with ten men, and stolen a canoe and gone
down river. On the llth I counted the men and could only Hud seven-
teen (I had iifty-two the first day); the rest had gone away either after
the column or down river. On the 14th one man died. Umari returned
with very few bananas, about enough for two days; however, they were
very welcome, as 1 had nothing but herbs and fungi to eat up to this
time. On the 15th another man died, and I found that Saadi (No. I )
with some other men had come into camp in the night and stolen the
can 3 (Umari had re-crossed the river in) and goiK! down rivei'. On the
17th Umari went away with twenty- one men to look for food; I'Jtli, man
died; 22nd, two men died; 23rd, man died; 2ytb, two men die<l ; Je])h-
son arrived; 30th, one man died ; we left cauj]) on way here. Umari had
not returned; he, however, if alive, will come on hev.-, 1 feel sure, but
how many men with him I cannot tell, i)erhai)s five; or six may reach
here with him. With the exception of the few bananas I got from Umari
I lived entirely on herbs, fungi, and a few mabengu. I liad ten ulcers on
my left leg and toot and eo wm unable to look for food yself and was
kept alive entirely by my two boys and little Baruk, one my com])any,
and Abdalla, a man Stairs left with me. J was very weak .vl.en Jephs(jn
arrived. Now, however, I feel a little better. V/e arrived at the village
on the 3rd November, the chief Ismail brought me the day I came a very

O.t. •-'•>.
Il»>to.

2r)0

IN DAliKE^iT AFItlCA.

Oct. 'Jti,

]]10to.

siiiiill quantity of coiirsc meal and two small dried tisli, about enough for
one nicui.

" Yesterday, no food liavint;- eonie for t\\<) days, we sent for it. and
after a ;j; hmI deal ot ti'ouhle Ismail sent us a little meal. At ])resent I
am livinj; on my clothes; we get hardly anything from the Chief. To-
day Dr. i'arkc and 1 went to the Chief, with llamis Pari as inter])retcr,
and talked to him about food. He told us that im (irrdiii/i nimt laid bcni
iinitl- hi/ i/(i>( for ///// food, and that he was feeding the Doctor and mo
entirely from his own generosity, ami he refused to feed our boys, three
in number (fewer we cannot ijossibly do with), as you never told him to
do so.

" I have the honour to be,

"I!. H. Nklson."

',1

■ i

"My de.\r Mr. St.\.\ley,

" Arab Cam)), Ipoto,

" yort'inhcr iSth, 1887.

"Ci])tain Nelson and 3Ir. Jejilison arrived here on the 3rd inst.
a few of the Zanzibaris and Manynema men getting in with their loids
the ])rcvious day. Of all those men left at Nelson's camp, only five have
arrived liere, the remuining live ones were away on a foragiuir tour with
L'mari, when the relief pirty arrived. It is very likely that some of them
may find tlieir way here .- it so, I shall get Isniaili to allow them to work
for their food. Nelson stagtiere I into camp greatly changed in a])])tar-
ance, a complete wreck after the march, Ins features shrunken and
pinched, and a frame reduced to half its former size. I have done the
l)est I could for him medically, but good nourishing food is what he
ref(uires to restore him to iiis health : and I regret to say that my ex])e-
rience here and the comei.sation which we had today with Ismaili goes
to show that we shall have to exist on scanty tare. Since you left, I have
had some Hour and corn from the chiefs. l)ut this was generally after
sending for it several times ]iy a lucky accident I got a goat, most of
which I distribute;! amongst the sick men here, for I am informed by
Ismaili, through H. Pari, that only those who work in the field get food,
and there ani some here who certainly cannot do so ; therefore they are
trusting to the generosity of the o+lier men, who get five heads of corn
tach day they work. Both Nelson and myself have much trouble in
getting food f''(mi Ismaili tor our.'^elves, and he has refused to fed our
boys, who are aiisoliitely necessary to draw water, cook, dc, Ac, although
I have reduced mine to one.

" N\:lson and myself went and saw him to day (Hamis Pari, interpreter),
and Ismaili stated that you liad told the chiefs that a big ]Mzungu was to
come (Nelson), and he would make his own arrangements about food^
and that I was here living on his (Ismaili s) generosity, as no arrang(!-
ments had lieen m idi' for me. I remintled him of the conver.sition you
had with him in yoiir tent the evemiig you called me down and gave mc
your gold watcli, and I said that you had told me thai you had tuade a
written arrangenunt with the chiefs that both Nelson and my.'^elf should
be prooisiiinvil. We both told him that we did not want goats and fowls,
but sini])ly what he can give us. Not liaving seen any ngieeinent, I coidd
not argue further, but asked to see the docuinent. so that we nn'ght ■
convinci' him; this he said he coidd not do, as Hamis, the Chief, hail it,
a!id he was away, and would not return for two nioidhs, He however
sent lis 11)) ,^ome corn shortly afterwards. This is a very unlia)t)iy state
of affairs for us who shall have to remain here for so long a time.
Nelson has sold much ol' his clothes, and out of my scanty su)i)ily (,iuy

I"",

>•

■<

J',
o

1 lii'i'

BLOOD BliOTIIERHOOD WITH ISMAIIJ.

2r>3

haf: having bocii lost on the march), T have l)cen oliliged to make a
I'nrtlior sale so as to ]»rovi(le ourselves with sufficient food.

" We sliall get along here as l)est we can, and sacrifice much to kec]^
on friendly tei'ns witli the Arabs, as it is of such essential imiKjrtance. T
sincerely hope you will have every success in attaining the object of the
Exjicdition, and that we shall all have an ojtportunity of meeting soon
and congratulating Eniin Tasha on his relief.

" With best wishes, dkc,

(Signed) " T. II. Pakke,
" A.M.D.

1SS7,
Oct. ItJ.

Ipoto.

"Arab Village, ipoto,
"])EUl Sir " lO//( Xoreiiil>er,liiS7.

" 1 am sorry to liave to tell yon that several attempts have been
made to rob tlie hut, and last night nnforti;nately they managed to get a
box of amnnmiticm out of I'arke's tent while we were having dinner;
also one attemjit to burn the hut, which hap]) ly I frustrated, owing to my
not being able to slee]> well. We have sjioken to the Chief Ismail about
tlie thieving : he says it is done by Zanzil)aris and not by his jieojile; but
if there were no sak' for the carti'idges they would not be stolen. Jt is ot
course most unfortunate. Since -lepli.son left, the erormous (piantity of
forty small heads of Indian corn has been given to ns by Ismail ; this is
of course (juite .absuril; as wo cannot live on it, we get herbs, with
which we supplement our scanty fare.

" riedi returned this afternoon and goes on to-morrow, and by him 1
send this letter.

" With kindest regards to you, Sir, Stairs and Jcphson.

" I have the honour to be. iVrc, »'i:c.,

(Signed) " H. H. Nelson.

r.S.— ,)ust as I finished this letter the Chief sent us a little nual,
which evidently was done so that Uledi who was waiting for the letter
could tell you that wo were getting plenty (! !) of food.

"JI. M. Stanley, E.m|.
"Commanding E. P. R. Ex]iedition."

On the oveiiinu' <»t' tlic •Jdrli Ismaili entered my hut,
and declared that he liad hef'uniL' so attach('(l to me that
he wouhl dearly love to o() throiioji the proccs,^ of hlood-
hrotherhood with me. As J was ahoiit to entrust
C'aptain Nelson and Sui'oeon Varke and alioiit thirtv
sick men to the diarue of himself and ln'oilici' chiefs,
I remlilv consented, thouoh it was somewhat ii/frtf (//(/.
to make brotherhood with a slave, liut as he was
powerful in that Itlnody oan,o' of handits. 1 [)ocketed my
dionity ;■ id underwent the cei'emonv. I then selected
a five-o'uinea ruu. silk handkerchiefs, a couple of yards of
'•rinison lu'oadcioth. and a i'ew othei' mostly triiles.
Finalh' 1 made anothei- wi'itter, aareemeut for uuides to
tit'conipany nie to the distiwice of fifteen camps, which

i"9r- ^.

2;-)4

IN DJIiKFST AFJ;j:'A.

1887.
Oot. 2»).

Ipoto.

lie said was tlie limit of liis territoi'v, i.nd givjd treat-
ment of my otiicers, and handed to him a ^ohl watch
and chain, value £49 in London, as pledge of tins
agreement, in presence of Surgeon Parke.

The next day after leaving Surgecin Parke to attend
to his friend Nelson and twenty-nine men. we left Ipoto
with our reduced force to sti'i\e once moix^ with the
hunger of the wilderness.

reut-
vatch

tliis

|)()tO

the

CHAPTER XL

THROUGH THE FOREST TO MAZAMBOXI S ^EAK.

Ill the eonntry of the Balcssr— Tlicir liouses and cloariiif^s — Natives
of Bukiri — ^The first villapie of dwarfs — Our rate of progress
increased — The road from Maiulninjxii's — Halts at East and West
Indekaru — A littlo storm hetw en "Three OVh:)ok " and Kbamis —
We reach Ibwiri — Khamis and the " vile Zanzil)aris" — The ll)\viri
clearing — Plentifnl provisions— The state of my men; and wliat
they had recently gone througli — Khamis and party explore tlie
neighbourhood — And return witli a flock of goats — Khamis
captures Boryo, hut is released — Jejihson returns fi'om the relief
of Cai)tain Nelson — Departure of Khamis and tlie Manyuema —
Memorandum of charges against Messrs. Kilonga Longa & Co. of
Ipoto — .Suicide of Simha — Sali's rettectioiis on the .same— Lieutenant
Stairs reconnoitres — Mu.ster and re-organisation at Ih'.viri — Im-
proved condition of the men — Boryo's village— ]?alesse custo:.\s —
East Indenduru — We reach the outskirts of the forest- !Mwunt
Pisgah — The village of lyugu — Heaven's light at last ! The beautiful
grass-land We drop across an ancient crone- In icsura ar I its
])roducts— Juma's ca))ture — The Ituri river again — ^\ ' .nr.ergc upon
a rolling ])lain^And forage in some villages — 1' f^ ; ode of hut
construction "Tlie district of the Babusesse— Our \ '^iri oaj. lives —
Natives attack the cam])— The course of the Ituri J'h.e natives of
Almnguma— Our fare since leaving IliAviri Ma/nmboin s reuk--Tl;e
east Tturi--A mass of ])laiitations— Din.oii^tratioii bv il:(> nativcp-
Our cam)i on the crc^t of N/era Knm — "Be stnu g and of t goud
courage"— Friendly intercourse tli tie natives— VvC are ci'inj elkd
to disperse tlieni— Peace arrani:(d— Anns of the Bandussiima.

^^ E m.irclicd for two hoins to Vuiiil)U, and in idur and
a (quarter hours on the followino; <hiy to I^usitidi.

We were now iii tlie con itry of the Bah^s.se. TIip ai-cln-
tecture was peculiar. Its peculiarity consisted in a Jono'
street flanked ])V a \o\\<x h^w w<>'><lcn Iniildino'. or rather
planked huildin'o'. on either side. 200, ."500. or 400 feet
Ion,<4-. At first siojit one of these vilhiges api)eare({ like
a lono- oahle-roofed struciui'e sawn in exact half a.lonjx
the rid^e of the roof, and a if eadi half hoibse had Iteen
removed hackwiO'd for a distance of '2{) or 30 i'eet, and

lSf^7.
0, t. -JH.

Viinibu.

i. '^1

5'r ■

2:. (5

Oct. •_",'.

BiHinili.

fX I>AL'Ki:,ST AFJifCA.

then ;i](»n<i' the inner sides 1>eeii ])<)ar(le<l up, and pierced
with h)\v (h)('i's, to olttain entriiiice into independent
apartments. The liu'lit wood of the Hnluacac atlbrds oood
material for tliis kind of liouse. A sizeal)le tree, 1 foot
IS inches, or 2 feet in diameter, is felk^d. and the h>i;' is
cut into sliort pieces from four to six feet in length ;
the pieces are easily split ky hard wedges, and with
their small neat adzes they c(»ntrive to shape the plarJv
.smooth, tolerahly even, and s([uare. They are <»enerally
an inch or an inch and a (juarter thick. For what is
called the ceiling- or inner hoardinu', the hoards are
thinner and narrower. When a sufficient numher of

I H

SHIELDS OF Tin: BALESSK.

hoards and planks are ready, the inner ceilino- is lashed
to the u})rinhts. freijuently in as neat a fashion as a
•aTpenter's apprentice mio-jit do it with saw. nails and
hammer ; on the outer side of tlie upi'iuhts are lashed
tlie thicker planks, or hi-oad slahs, the 1m»11ow hetween
the inner and outer frame is then stuffed with the
phrynia, or oanana leaves. The wall facino; the street
may he !) feet high, the hack wall facing the forest or
clearing is 4 or 4^ feet higii, the width of the house
varies from 7 to id feet. Altogether it is a comfortahle
and snug mode of hiiilding. rather dangerous in case of
tire, but very defensihle. with trifling lahour.

THE COUNTRY UF THE BALK^SE.

'i:^l

Another peculiarity of the Balesse is the coiulition of
their clearings, and some of these arc very extensive,
(jiiite a mile and a half in (liametc, and the whole
strewn with the relics, dehi-is. and tM..oer of thepi'imeval
forest. Indeed I cannot compare a IJalesse deai'ing' to
anything' better than a mii>hty ahattis suri'oundino' the
principal village, and over this ahattis the ti'aveller has
to find his way. As one steps out of the .liadow of the
forest, the j)ath is at first, may be, along the trunk of a
fjreat tree for 100 feet, it then turns at riuht ani>lcs
along a great branch a few feet ; he takes a few paces
on the soil, then finds himself in front of a massive
prostrate tree-stem ."} feet in diametei' or so ; he climbs
over that, and presently finds himself facing the out-
spreading limbs of another giant, amongst which he
must creep, and twist, and crawl to get footing on
a branch, then from the branch to the trunk, he takes
a half turn to the right, walks along the tree from which,
increasing in thickness, he must soon clind) on top of
another that has fallen across and atop of it, when after
taking a half-turn to the left, he must follow, ascend-
ing it until he is 20 feet above the gi'ound. When
he has got among the ])ranches at this dizzy iieiglit,
he needs judgment, and to be proof against nervous-
ness. After tender, delicate balancing, he places his
foot on a l)rancli — at last descends cautiously along
the steep slope until he is G feet fnmi the ground
fnmi which he must jnmp on to another tapering
branch, and follow that to another height of 20 feet,
then ah)ng the monster tree, then down to the ground ;
and so on for hours, the hot, burning sun, and the ch)se,
steamy atmosphere of the clearing forcing the perspira-
tion in streams from his body. I have narrowly escaped
death three times during these frightful gvninastic
exercises. ( )ne man died where lie fell. Several men were
frightfully bruised. Yet it is not so dangerous with the
naked feet, but with f)oots in the early morning, before
the dew is dried, or after a rain, or when the advance-
guard has smeared the timber with a greasy <-lay, I
liave had six falls in an hour. The village stands in the

VOL. I. K

18h7.
Oft. 'ii'J.

Busindi.

^lii;

(Tif

il>ii

2r,H

JN DAllKKtiT AFIUVA.

tli

Oct. 2',r. '
Busiiuli.

(•(Miti'c. we lijive often (•oni'Tatulated ourselves on coniino"
to aclcjiriiiLi,' at the near a})proacli to <'ain))inu,-tiine, })ut it
lias fi'e(|U('iitIv occii[)ie(l us one hour and a hall" to reach
the villauc. It is a most curious sioiit to see a caravan
laden with heavy })urdens \valkin,i>' over this wreck of a
forest, and timbered clearing'. Streams, swamps, water-
courses, ditches are often twenty to twenty-five feet
helow a tapei'int;' slippery tree, which crosses them
bridge-like. Some men are fallinn'. some are tottering",
one or two have already fallen, some are twenty feet
above the ground, others are on the ground creeping
undei" logs. Many are wandering among a maze of
bi'anches, tliirtv or more nuiv be standini'' on one delicate
and straight shaft, a few may be posted like sentries on
a })ranch. perplexed which way to move. All this,
jiowever. is made much harder, and more dangerous,
when, from a luuub-ed points, the deadly arrows are
Hying from concealed natives, which, thank TIeaven,
were not common. We have been too cautious for that
kind of work to happen often, though we have seldom
been a})le to leav^e one of these awful clearings without
having some ni.iu's foot skewered, or s(mie one lamed.

On the 29th we marched to Bukiri or Myyulus, a
distance of nine miles in six hours.

A few natives having l)een tormented and persecuted
to submission to the Manyuema, greeted us with cries
f ■■ Bodo ! Bo(h) I LTlenda 1 Llenda I " ; greetings which
they acc()mpanied with a Hinging motion of the hand,
as though they jerked " Away I away ! "

The chief 'A- as styled Alwani. They wore much
polished ironwork, rings, bells, and anklets, and appeared
to be [)artial to many leglets made of calamus tibi-e, and
arnrlets of the same material, after the numner oi
Karagwe and llhha. They cultivate nuiize, beans,
plantains, and bananas. toba(;co, sweet potatoes, yams,
brinjalls. melons, gourds. Theii" goats are tine, and of
good size. Fowls ai'e plentiful. l>ut fresh eggs are rare.

Among sonu^ of these villages tliere is generally a
dome hut of ample size, after the manner of L'nyoro,
with double porches.

lyui'u,

1 I

! ' i

il i

THE FUi'.ST VILl.Aill': OF ItWAllFS.

2(11

Tlie followiii.ij, (lay we lialted, (luriiiir wliich tlic Maii-
vuoimi gui«lL's took pai'ticular care to sliovv our pcojde
that they should liave no doultt of tlieir conteinpt for
them. They would not aUow them to trach' witli the
natives for fear some desirahle ai'tich' wouhl l»e h)st to
themselves, they also vociferated at them loudlv if they
were seen proceedin_i;' to the clearing;' to <-ut nlaiitains.
As 1 told them, they did not advance in tlieir favour in
the least by al)an<lonin,o- the whites, and turning a deaf
ear to our adjurations t(> he manly and faithful. A
word, or even a defiant look, was visited with a sharp
cut on the naked hody with a rattan from slave l>o\'s of
the six Manyuema guides with us. What awful oaths of
ven^u'eance were uttered for all these indiuiiities they
suffered !

On the '^stwe came across the fii'st village of Dwarfs,
and, durin<;' the (hiy, across several em[)ty settlements
l)elon<>injT to them. We marched nine miles in five and
a (juai'ter hours, and camped in a dwarfs \illage in the
woods.

Stealing' continued steadily. On examining' the
])ouches, there was one cartridge out of three pouches
The carti'id,ues were lost, of course ! Hilallah, a l)oy of
sixteen, deserted hack to Ipoto with my cartridge pouch,
and thirty cartridges in it. A man who carried my
satchel ran away with seventy-five Winchester car-
tridges.

The next day we entered the extensive clearing and
large settlement of Mandtungu's or Nehasse.

Kliamis, the chief of the guides, left Ipoto on
the .'^Ist, and arrived at this place with seven men,
according to agreement with Ismaili, my Manyuema
brother.

The track which we followed has enabled us to
increase our rate of progress per hour. Along the river
bank, by dint of continued work, and devoting seven,
eight, nine hours — sometimes ten hours — we could
travel from ."3 to 7 miles. We were now enabled to
make \\ to li, and even '1 miles per hour : but the
pace was still retarded l)y roots, stumps, clind)ers,

Oct. :i(».
Uusiiuli.

!iil^

'i I ■' !;

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1.25

_ ^ 1^

■^ 1^ 12.2

■30

^ 1^ 12.0

■MUb

1.4

1.6

4/W ^ ?

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WEST MAIN !>TREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. M5S0

(716) 873-4503

»"

2()2

/.V DAllKKST Al'incA.

I I

M '

'< I!

1HH7.
Nov. 1.

Mam-
bungii's.

• tl

ill

m t

WUIOS,

'onvolvuli, skowcrs, jiimI a iiiultitude of

strcniiis, }iii<l utcch-scuiiuiumI sinks

coll

nirelv

{)r(»c('iMl H clear lnm«lrc(l yards without bciiii!; <H'<l(M-tMl
to lialt l)y the pioneers.

I'^ach (hiy towards evening'' the clouds oathered, the
thunder reverberated with awful scaiiids through the
echoinir forest ; lii'htnint'' darted hither an<l thither,

daily severinu' some tree-to[). or splitting- a mighty
patriarch from crown to hase, or Masting- some stately
and kiiiiilv tree : and the rain fell with a di'ownini;
plenty which chillecl and depressed us greatly in our
poor Idooded and ameniic state, lint during- the march.

rovidence was nracious

le sun snone. anc

dst

reame<

in milli(>n heains of soft liuht tlirouuh the woods, which

briirhtened our feelin

!J'S.

UKl causec

1 tl

le aisles

aiK

corridors of the woods to be of Divine beauty, converted
the iji'aceful thin tree-shafts into marbly-orey pillars,
and the dew and rain-tlrops into sparkling' brilliants ;
cheered the invisible birds to piair out, with spirit, their
varied re])ertory of sonys ; inspired j)arrot tlocks to vent
^{.•leeful sci-eanis and whistliniis ; roused hosts of
monkeys to e.xert their wihlest antics ; while now and
then some deep, bass roar in far-away recesses indicated
a familv of sokit or chimpanzees eniovinu' some savage
Hport.

The road fi'om .\;ambunnu's, eastward, was full of toi-
ments. fears, and anxieties. Never were such a series of

clearin<r.s as tliose aroiinc

til

d M

imhunuu, aiK

Itl

le neii'lihoui

lib

inti; settlement of Nialis. The trees were of the larii'est
size, and timber eiioiiu'li had been cut to build a navy ;
and these lay. in all imauinable <'onfusion. tree upon tree,
loM- above lou,-. branches risini^' in hills above hills ; and
amongst all this wild ruin of woods yrew in profusion
upon j)rofusioii bananas, jilantains, vines, parasites :
ivy-like })laiits, ])alins. calamus, convolvuli, etc., thi'ouiih
which the poor column had to burrow, strun'iile, and
sweat, while creepini:;, crawliiiLi', and climbino", in,
through, and over (jbstacles and entanglements that
batlle description.

On llie 4th November we were Wi miles from

" ;»

M(H,'MX(i IS lilir.AMNd.

2(»;i

^ram}>nn<iu's in tlie settlement of Ndugnhisha. iiavini;-
passed, in tlie interval, tliron^h five desei'tecl toi'est
villa'^cs of piuniies. On this day 1 came near smiling' —
for I fancied i observed the dawn of happiei" days fore-
told 1)V riedi, Kacli mend)ei' of tlie caravan received
one ear of corn, and IT) [)lantains as rations.

Fifteen plantains and one eai- of coi-n make a royal
ration compared to two ears of corn, or a handful of
iierries, or a dozen fun<i;us. It was not calculated, how-
ever, to make men too cheerful, though our people were
naturally light-hearted and gay.

But

never mim

I, mv hovs," I said, as 1 doled l!ie

spare diet to the hungry creatures ; " the morning is
breaking ; a week more, and then you shall see the end
of vour troubles."

\ erbal replv was not uiven t<

o me ; onlv a wan snule

liiihtened the famine-sharpened features. Our officers

ha.l 1

(or

ne these piivations with the spn-it ascri

th th

ibed 1

Ctesar to Antony, and as well as though they were to
the manner liorn. They fed on the flat wood beans of the
forest, on the acid wild fruit and strange fungus, with the
smilinii" content of Svbarites at a feast. Vet <nie of them
paid i* 1 ,000 for this pool- [)rivilege, and came near being
thought too daintv for roui>h African life. Thev had
been a living example to oui' daik followers, many of
whom had i)robaltlv been encouraued to strive for
existence by the bright, hopeful htoks our officers wore
under our many unhappy afflictions.

On the followinii" dav we crossed the watershed
between the Ihuru and Ituri rivei's, and we now
plunged into cool stivams flowing to leftward, or towards

the

niru. Hills rose to the riyht and left in woode(l

cones and I'idgv mounts, and aftei' a march of nine ant{
three-(|uartcr miles, we halted for the night at West
fndekaru, at the base of a hill whose toj) rose (lOO feet
above the village. Another short nuncli biought us to
a village pei'cli(>d half-wjiy uj) a tall mount, which may
be desijinated as Kast Indekaru.and bv aneroid we were
4,0i)7 feet above the ocean. From this village \\v
enjoyed a first view of our surroundings. Instead of

1HH7.
N.iv. 4.

Niiugii-

bisha.

tTp|, I I

til

' f , i

15 1

i-i I

264

IN DARKEST AFIilCA.

1887. (TiiwliiiL!; like niitility hipt'«ls in the twiliolit, .*{0 ftitlioms
l)el<)\v tlic level of the white li«i;lit of the day, compelled

Nov
iiiiiuk.'tni.

to re('o<riiize our littleness, hv comparison \vi

ith tl

le tfiant

coliimiis and tall pillai-like shafts that rose by millions
around us, we n<>w stood on the crest of a cleared mount,
to look u[)oii the leafy world helow us. One almost
felb as if walking' over the rollino- plain of leafa<i;e was
possible, so compact and unbroken was the (\\j)anse,
cxteiidinji; to a lovely pale blueness as the eyesight
followed it to the, furthest limits of distinctness — away,

brest tops spreac

ar awav to an unknown (

bsti

nice

the t

round about a variegated ^reeii of plushy texture, broad
red patches of tree Howeriii^-, and rich russety cii-cles of
leaves, not uiifre(pieiit. J low one envied the smooth,
easy f1i<i;lit of the kites and white-collared eaules, sailin,«,r
g?*a(;efully without let or hindrance throuuh the calm
atmosphere I Ah ! that we had the wiii^s of kites, that
we miii'lit tlv and be at rest from these incorriiiiblv
wicked Manvuema ! Whose wish was that ? indeed, I

think we all of us shared it, more or le

ss.

On the 7th, while we halted on the

moun

t, tl

Manvuema nioiiopolizimr the villai»e, and our men in the
bush, unworthy to be near their nobility, there was a
little storm between Saat Tato (Three o'clock), the
liunter, and Khaniis, the chief of the Manyuema ouidos.
Jt threatened, from the sound of words, to ex[)lode hurt-
fully at one time. Khaniis sla[)ped him in the face.
Both were tall men. but Saat Tato was two inches taller,
a o-ood soldier, who had seen service in Machiuascar and
with Sultan Har^hash as a ser<>eant. but who. from his
liabits (.r oettiiiL"' drunk by the third hour of each (hiy.
was nicknamed " Tiiree o'clock," and dismissed. lie was
an excellent man. faithful, strong', obedient, and an
unerring- shot. ( Jiven the benefits of twenty-five pounds
of food. Saat Tato. at a hint, would have smilingly taken
'.lold of Kliamis. and snapju'd !iis vertebra.' across his
knee with the case that he would have broken a spear
Htaff. I ol>served Saat Tato closely, for it must be
remembered that it lia.d Imm-oiuc fully im])ressed on my
mind that my men were (juite too l)roken-spirited. Saat

SAAT TATO AND KIIAMIS.

2(;."

had heeii cooled hv the ciiU'ltA'

rverseiR'ss, am

nii;<>ardliiicss of the Manyuenia. All we had to do was
to watch it, hear patiently, an<l he ready.

To our u^reat <-oinfort Khaniis coufess(Ml that West

Iiidel'

karu was the Jitniost limit of his mastei' Isniaili'

territory

We, however, were not to part from liim until we

reacliei

1 11

•win.

e mar

chcd eleven miles on the 8th of Novemhei'

u-ouoh a much more o})en torest. and we could see further
into the interior. The road was hettei'. so much so that
our rate of marchin^u' increased to two miles per hour,

le 2^rittv and loamv soil had ahsorhecl the rain, and

ilkmjnr hecame })leasant.

le liianes were not so

riotously alauuhmt, oidy a strong ciceju'r now and then
ie(piiring sevei-ance. At several places there were
granite outcroppiniis of a colossal size, which weic a
novelty «ind added a kind of romantic and [)ictures(|ue
interest to the woo(ls. darkly suu-uesti\'e (»f ^itanos.
handits, or piumies.

A uiarch of nint' and a half miles on the Dtli of

ovend)er took us to a

Piu'ii

ues cami).

I'ntil

noon a

mist had hunn- over the land. Towards the latter
part of the tramp we passed thi'ouiih seveial lately
deserted vilhiiies of the dwarfs, and across eiuht streams.

Imii'kani.

Tato looked at him a second severely ; then. liftiuLT his i887
f()refin<iei', said to Khamis. " it is well, hut 1 should like ^"^'
to see vou repeat that hlow a little time hence, after I
have a little food in me, and filled this stomach of mine.
Strike me a^jjain, do ; I <'an hear it."

Advancinii", and touching' Khamis on the shoulder. I
said. " Khamis, do not <lo that ayain. I <lo not allow
even my officers to strike my men like that.'

The ill-humour was inci'easinu', and, little as the
]\Ianyuema imaiiined, they were assisting nu' to rest(tre
the spirit of the Zan/iharis liy their cruelty. There
were signs that the Christians would prevail after all.
The nuitual affe<-tion ex})ressed between the Moslem co-
reliiiionists at the altar of whi<*h our men were readv to
sacrifice our lives and liherties and their own freedom.

i is

'-i

!NI

I »

ffl

|l '''" 'I,
1^

kiili'

1 ^

1 j

i 1 1

1 1

:i;

irti

^(iil

1887.
Nov. '.•.

Indekaru.

ill

2(1(1

IX DARKEST AFRICA.

Kliiiniis, tlie <:;ui(le, and liis foUovveis. and aliout lialf-
a-dozen of tlie j)i()neers proceeded to Ihwiri, wliicli was
onlv (Jiio and a half mile distant, and on the next dav
we joined them. This was one of the richest and finest
clearings wc had seen since leavini*' Yand>uya, thonoh
had the Ivxpedition been d spatched eight months earlier,
we shouhl have found s( ores in the same pros])erous
condition. Here was a clearing three miles in diameter
abounding in native produce, and hitherto unvisited by
the iManyuema. Almost every plantain stalk bore an
enormous branch of fruit, w'ith from fifty to one hundred
and forty plantains attached. Some specimens of this
fruit were twenty-two inches long, two and a half inches
in diameter, and nearly eight inches round, hirge enough
to furnish Saat Tato the hunter, with his long desired
full meal. There was an odour of ri[)e fruit pervading
the air. and as we climbed over the logs and felt our
way gingerly al(»ng the prostrate timber, I was often
asked by the delighted jieople to note the bunches of
mellow fruit hanging temptingly before their eyes.

Before reacliing the village AJurabo, a Zan/ibari head-
man, whispered to me that there were five villages in
Ibwiri, and that each hut in every village was more than
a fourth full of Indian corn, but that Khamis and his
Manyuema had been storing corn in their own huts,
which, according to right of preemption, they had
reserved for themselves.

On entering the street of the viHage, Kliamis met me
with the usual complaints about the wickedness of the
" vile Zanzibaris." Looking down on the ground I saw
many a trail of c(>rn which went to c(>rroborate Murabo's
story, and as Khamis proposed that the Expedition should
occupy the western half of the village, and he and his
fifteen Manyuema would occupy the eastern half, 1
ventured to dennu' to the proposition on the ground
that as we had departed out of his masters teri'itoi'v we
claimed all the land to the eastward, and would in
future dispense with any suggestion as to what we
should do. and that furthermoi'e not a grain of corn,
nor plantain, ban ina, or any other native product in the

■||^ .

KIIAMI^ AND THE ZAX/IJiAJUS.

2<;;

land would leave the coiuitrv without mv ])ennissi()n.
lie was told, no people on earth could have home so
unconiplaininuiy such shames, atiVonis. a!id insults as had
ltee)i put upon the Zanzihaiis, and that in future they
should he permitted to resent all such injuries as they best
knew how. Khaniis assented suhmissively to all this.

The first thing after storing gcxxls, i\v\ distributing
the men to their (piarters, was to give fift\ ears of corn
per man, and to arrange with the natives as to our future
conduct towards one another.

Within an hour it was agreed that the western half of
the iltwiri clearing should he granted to us for foraging ;
tiiat the eastern half, from a certain stream, should he
the reserve of the natives. Kliamis, the Manyuema. was
also induced to enter into the pact. In return for a
packet of brass rods, Boryo, the principal chief of the
iialesse of the district, presented us with five fowls and
a goat.

This was a great da v. Since Auuust .'^st not one
follower of the Expedition had enjoyed a full meal, but
now bananas. 2)lantains ripe and green, potatoes, herbs,
yams, beans, sugar-cane, corn, melons in such (juantities
were i;iven them that were tliev so manv elephants thev
c()uld not have exhausted the stock pr(>vided for them in
less than ten days. They could gratify to the full the
appetite so long stinted and starved.

As we were compelled to wait for Mr. Jephson and some
sixtv Zanzibaris - fortv of the relief ])artv, boat's crew,
and convalescents from Ipoto— the good effect of this
abundance would be visible in a few days. It was also
one of those settlements we had been anxiously searching
for as a recuj)erating station. On this date the men
were hideous to look upon, because of their gaunt naked-
ness. They were naked, for they had sti'ipped them-
selves to obtain food from the slaves of the Manyuema at
rgarrowwa's and Ipoto ; of flesh they had none, for they
had been reduced to bones by seventy-three days of
famine and thirteen days of absolute want ; of strength
thev had but little, and thev were ill-favoured in every
respect ; theii" native cohmr of oiled bronze hud be-

1HH7.
Nov. M.

Ibwiri.

f!(

■, ^1

■ ' i >

2<;8

IN DAIiKEST A Fine A.

\y\

Ibwiri.

• :; i:

i«87. conic u mixture of ^liiny Mack and wood ashes; their
N"v. i<». ,.,,||ijjj,. ,,^.^.^ })eti'avc(l sions of disease, iinpiire Mood, and
indurated livers; tiiat licautiful contour of hody, an«l
•graceful antl delicati' outlines (jf muscles— alas, ahifl ! —
were all j»<>Uti. Thev more hefitted a chaincl-house
than a camp of men hound to continually wear fightinu^
accoiifn'meiits.

Ivhamis, the Manyuema ^uide, otiere<l the next morninuf
to [)i'oceed east to search out the road from Ihwiri, f«»r,
as he infoiinecl me, liorvo, the chief. Iwul told him of a
•^rassdand Immui:; not niany days oH". lie thouiiht that
with a few of i^oryo's natives, and thirty of our riflemen,
he couM disc()ver somethinu' of interest. ('allin<; Borvo
to me, he contii'me(l. as well as we could understand him,
that from a place called Maude, which he said was only
two (lavs' <»()()d marchiim' — ^sav fortv miles — the jirass-
land could he seen ; that her«ls of cattle came in such
numhi'rs to the Ituri river to drink that the river
" swelled up." All this chimed with my eaoer desire to
know how far we were from the o[)en country, and as
Jiorvo said he was willinu' to furnish guides, I <'alled for
volunteers. 'rwentv-ei«»ht men <'ame forward, to mv
sui'prise, as willing' and as e.i^ei- for new adventures as
thouii'li tliev had heen revellii?!'' in plentv for the last few
months. Khamis and his ])arty de|)arted shortly after.

I)es|)ite strict prohihition to touch anythin<;- on the
native ivservation of Ihwiri, one of our raiders [)aid it a
visit, and cui)tured nineteen fowls, two of which he had
already des[)atche(l, the romaininuj seventeen he had
decapitated, hut our detectives pounccil u|)()n him and
his stock, as he and his chum were dehatinu' what thev
should do with the feathers. The flesh and hones did
not promise to he any tiouMe to them. Close hy them
two mi'n had despatched an entire ^oat. cxce|)tinj4' the
head I These facts serve ro illustrate the boundless
caj)acity of Zanziltari st(»machs.

The natives of ihwiri had hchaved most handsomely,
and ])ersonally I felt a sense of shame at the inoTatitutle
of my followei's. The chief and his family were livini;;
with us, and exchanued their iiroetiiiiis of " Bodo, Bodo,

THE y A Tines itF inwini.

2<;{)

nlt'inlji. iilcnda," li;ilt"-a-«l«>z('ii times a dny. Vet our nuMi
lijul uii(l('r<;()n(' sndi cxtrcnu's of" wrctclKMliu'ss (liuiii*^
the last two and a half inoiitlis that we iiiiii'lit liavc well
aiitiripatcd sonic cxccsst's would l»(> (•(mnuittcMJ iipoii the
first ()}>|)<)rtiniity. N<» other hody ot" men in tlie wide
world that I am aecpiainted with could have liorne such
a period ot" hunger so meeklv. so rcsiunetllv. Not a
urain or a hit of liuman food discoverable anvwherc,
llieii' comi'ades dyinu^ at every camp, or falling' <lead
al(>n<i[ the track, <»thers less j»atient plunuinn' into the
depths of the wildeiness maddened l>y hunncr. leavinijj
them to faro as they mi,<;ht under the landens of war-
munilions, and hau'iiauc (Joadcd l»y the pi'otra<'te(|
hun,iier. and tiei'ce d"spair. and loss of trust in theiv
oftii'crs, they mi^ht have seizecl their I'emin^u'tons and,
l»y one volley have slain their white ( hiefs, and fed on
them, and shaken ()H" power, and, in a moment, the clutch
of authoritv which, so far as thev knew, was onlv dia<>-
nini:; them (h)wn to certain doom.

While I pitied the natives who had h>st their pro])erty
wlien they least deserved it. I could not remove from my
memory that extended fast in the area (yf desolation and
forest wilderness stret<*hini'' l)etween the liaH>po IJapids
ami Ihwiri, on the edf»e of which we were even now
located, or their patient obedience — thefts and small
pra<'tices notwithstandin*;-, their unfalterinoj iidelity,
their kindness to us while we were starving, in he-
stowinf"^ upon us the choicest and finest of the wild
fruit they had discovered, and their alto,L!;ether courageous
hearing^ and nol>le hopefulnes.s durinij; the terrible days
of adversity ; all these virtues nuist needs extenuate
their offences, and it was l)est to Jiwait fulness and reHec-
tion toassist us in reclaimiiii; them into traetahleness and
o;ood order. Every mile or two almost of that hunfjjry
forest solitude between the Iliuru an«l Ituri confluence
and Ipoto hud been marked by the dead bodies of their
comrades ; there they lay fast mildewinu' and rottinuj in
the silent jjjhxmi, and, but for the fidelity of the survivors,
none of those capable of <iivin<i; intelli<»ent testimony of
the stern trials endured durino- September, October^ and

1HH7.

Nov. 10.
Ibwiri.

■•w m-

.Lpjliiii.^]

11 !.

II I .

270

AV DAHKKST AFIll<'A.

ill I'i 1

;:i

rjlj

Nov. 10.
Ibwiri.

tlic half of Novcnilx'i', would liavt' livccl to relate the sad
arwl rtuiTctwful details.

The more experience and insight I olitain int(> linnian
natin-e, the nioie (•f)nvm('e<l do J become that the i^reatei-
|)ortion of a man is pnrely animal. Fnlly and re^^nlarly
fed, he is a ltein_n' capahle of l)ein<j: ffmxed oi- coerced to
exertion of any kind, love and fear sway Kim easily, he
is not averse tolahonr however severe ; l»nt whenstai'ved
it is well to keep in mind the motto "Cave Canem," for
a starving lion over a raw morsel of heef is not so
ferocions <ir so icady to tak(^ ofl'ence. Hi^id discipline,
(hiily hnrdens, and endless marchin<;' into re,uions of
which they were perfectly i^inorant, ne\er seemed to ;^all
oni' men mncli when their stomachs were pampered, and
altundant provender for their digestive or«.ians were
provided ; hut even han<;in^' unto death was only a
temporary (lam})er to their inclination to excessive mis-
chief when pinched with huniier. The ahoriu'ines also of
ihwiri surrounded by plenty are mild and meek enou<;h
throu<i,h pure sleekness, hut the dwai'tish nomads of the
forest are, I am told, as fierce as beasts of prey, and
fi<;ht till their (piivers are empty.

1 received W(U'd on the 12th that Khamis, the
JVlanyuema who was supposed to have <i;one for my
^ratificatioji to explore the country ahead, and to make
friends with the aid of the natives, had, owing to
perverseness, been unable to accomplish his mission ;
that he was greatly disappointed, and that he had ])een
attacked bv the natives of East Ibwiri and had lost two
men. 1 sent word to him to return.

The fleas of Ibwiri became so intolerable that in order
to obtain i-est, 1 had to set my tent in the open street.

On the \'M\\ of Noveml)er, while taking an inspection
of the village camp, and examining into the conditi(m of
the men, 1 was amazed at the busy scene of eating I
beheld. Almost every man w'as engaged in pounding
corn, reducing (h'ied bananas into flour, or grinding
niouthfuls of food with their fine teeth, making amends
for the compulsory fast of September, ()cto])er and
November.

Hil^^

h'/LlMlS AXJt ClIIKI'' liUltYO.

li7L

Klianiis rctunitMl on tlu' I4tli willi a V.wm' tlock of

n'oats ohtaiiitM

tVom

soiiicwlicr*'

«' was iiracioiis

oiiouiili to allow us sixtcui head. Tins iiicliiKMJ us t<>
suspect tiiat tlio ival ohject of" liis (lesion was not to
e.\[)lore l)Ut to extend the coiKiuesrs of liis master. Isniaili,

tartiier e

ast til

irouiih <»ni- assistance, and to reduce the

natives of Iljwiri into the same state of jxtverty as the
nei^^hixturhood of I))oto, for instance. I)Ut though
Kliamis possessed force sutHcient to have accomplished
even this last, the silly fellow's oreeil caused him to
Itehave with such reckless disre<2,ard of the poisoned
shafts of the natives that he lost three of his men. It
seems that as soon as a flock of Li'oats was sighted,
Khamis for«^'ot hisdesit;'n to explore, uru'ed his .Manyuema
to their caj)ture, and i-etained our people l»y him. (hir
men by these tactics returned uninjured witlntut havini;
heen eniiaiicd in this disui-aceful action. TIkmi. as
Khamis was returning' to our villaue. mourning- the loss
of three of liis most active comrades, he suddenly met
Horvo, the Cliief of Kast Ihwiri. and without a word

niJM

le 1

um a

isoner.

Bef

ore reporting' to me. Khami

on arrival, ordered his men to stran,ule the chief in
revenue for the death of his men. Jlajjpenini;' to hear
of it, 1 sent a ouard to take him by force out of Khamis'
hands, and placed him in a hut out of harm's way, and
hade Boryo rest ((uiet until Khamis Iwul departed.

We luxuriated durin,L»' our (hiys of rest. There liad
been discovered such an abundance of food that we
might safely have rested six months without feai- of
>tarving. We enjoyed ri})e plantains matle into pud<lin

ll'S

with goats' milk ; fritter>, patties and ])read. sweet
potatoes, manioe, yams, herbs, fowls and goat meat
without stint. On the evening of this dav the incna
for dinner was —

Kid soup.

Roast le|j; of kid, and baked sweet potatoes.

Boiled sweet manioc.

Fried l)ananas.

Sweet cake of ripe i)lantain.

Plantain fritters.

Goats' milk.

1HS7.
Nov. 14.

llnviri,

■ s

hwin.

!ii

h; !

272

IX I> AUK EST AFllK'A.

1887. Ali'Cfidy I iiotcil 11 cliaiinc in the Ji|t|»('jii'iiii(«' of our-

SClNOS MIX

I lull

owcrs.

icic wns cci

taiiil

V inoic noise,

1-, hut

and oner or twice I heard an attempt at siii<;iii

there was a well rerownised Haw in the voice, it was

postponed to another dav.

At ."{ I'.M. of the Kith Mr. .Ie|)hsoi, appeared, havin<»"
]>ert'orine(l his mission of relief most lnilliantly. As
will he seen hy Mr. .lej)hson's letter descri[>tive of
his siic<'ess, he had heeii ahle to pro<*eetl to the relief of
('a]>tain Nelson, and to return with him to ipoto within
seven days, after a journev of ahout a hundretl miles.
.Iiid<iiim from Captain Nelson's letter, he seeme<l to have
been delivered out of his terrihie position to fall into a
similar des[)erate strait in the midst of tin; plenty of ipoto.

The next day Khamis and his Manyuema returned
homeward without takin<;' leave. I despatched a letter
to the ofHcers at Ipoto, sent Khamis' ivory and a })i'esent
of elorh with it to Indekaiu, whence the Manvuemu
miuhtlte ahle to ohtain assistance from their own natives.
1 was never so dissatisfied with myself as when I was
<-ompelled to treat these men thus so kindly, and to
allow them to depart without even the small satisfaction
(»f expressing;' my private opinion of Manyuema in (general
and of the <;an<i; at Ipoto in particular. At all points 1
was worsted ; they c()m[)elled a generous treatment from
me, and finally trap})ed me into the ohligation of being

the

earner of their stolen ivory

Yet 1 felt oruteful to them s(miewhat that thev had

not taken irreater advantaiie of

my i)osition.

With

Captain Nelson and Dr. l*arke and ahout thiity men in
their power, they might have compelled a thousand con-
cessions from me, which ha])])ily they did not. I hoped
that after a season of forbearance divine justice would

(1(

dent

see fit to place me in more iiidepemient circumstanees.
When the Doctor and Nelson and their sick men were
recovered and in my camp, and the 1 Ifi loads and ])oat
left at Ipoto been conveyed away, then, and not till then,
would 1 l)e 'dV^Q to cast up accounts, and demand a per-
emptory and final settlement. The charges were written
plainly and fairly, as a memorandum.

i'HMini:s ahmsst kilusua losua.

'j::^

Messrs. KlI.ONUA LoNGA Uinl ("o., l|)i)*M.

'I'll Mr. Sliiitli'i/, iijjirn's niitl iiit'ii iif f/if l\. J'. /,'. i.j jixlit
S'lii'finlHff Vttli, l><iS7.

To having cim-cd tlic starviition t'> dcatli iK'twccii tlir
Lciiila lEivcr and Ihwiri of 07 nun: iK'caus*' \\v liad
crossfd that rivi-r witli 'JTl men and in caiiiit witli
tliosc due here sliortly tlitTt- were (»nly I7'», and "JM
iiiclusivo of Captain Nelson and Dr. I'arkc — tliLicfort'
lo.ss of men ........

To 27 men at Ii)oto too ftrltlo to travi-l, many of whom
will not recover.

To speiirinj,' to death Miifta Ma/.inpi ....

To tlotr^'iii); one man to deatli .....

To tloj.'j^'inK Ami, a Zanzdtari, 'J(H» lashe.s.

To attempiinj^' to starve Captain Nelson and I>r. Parko.

To instifxatint: rohU-ry of two hoxes of anununitiuu.

To rcccivini; thirty stolen Iteminjiton rifies.

To various oppressions of Zan/iharis.

To compelling Sarhoko to work as their slave.

To various insults to (!aptain Nelson and Dr. i'arko.

To devii.stating -UitHX) sipiare miles of territory.

To liutcliery of .several thou.siinds of natives.

To enslaving several hundreds of women and children.

To theft of 'J(M) tusks of ivorv Itetweeii May, 1SS7, and
October, 1H87.

To many murders, raids, crimes, devastations j^ast, present
and pros])ective.

To deaths of Zan7.il)aris
To nii.schiefs incalculable !

Nov. 17.
Ibwiii.

Dr.
Cm

Duiino- tlie afternoon of the 17tli we exjxM'ienced
once jioain tlie evil.s attendino- our connection witli tlie
Manyiiema. All Jhwiri an<l nei,iilil»oinin^ »listii<'ts were
in arm.s aoain.st us. The first declaration of their
hostilities took place when a man nanietl Sinilta pro-
ceeded to the stream close to the canij) to draw water,
and received an arrow in the ahdomen. IJealizinii' from
our anxious faces the fatal nature of the woinid. he cried
out his" Buryani hrothers ! " and .soon after, hein^ taken
into his hut, loaded a Hemino'ton ritie near him. and
made a «>hastly wreck of features that were (tnce jovial,
and not uncomely.

The reflections of the Zanziharis on the suicide were
curious, and l)e.st expressed hy Sali, the tent l)oy.

"Think of it, Simha ! a poor devil owning nothino; in
the world, without anythino; or anyhody dear to him,
neither name, place, property, or honour, to commit

VOL. 1. ' s

iH'ifi

hili

■1111,1.

ii-

27-4

TX DAUKEST AFIilCA.

Hiiil

:! i

1 1

'.'■1

■ \'\ i

{ . |1 ,' !|

(

' i:

1SS7.
Nov. 17

Ibv.iri.

suicide! \\ LTe lie <i licli Aral* now, a inercliaiit lliiidu,
u captain of soldiers, a governor (»fa district, or a white
man who had suti'ered niist'ortune. or had been the victim
of dishonour or shame, yea, 1 could understand the
spirit of the suicide ; hut this Simha, who was no l)etter
than a slave, an outcast of liiyanyemhe, without fi'iends
on the face of the earth, save the few poor things in his
own mess in this camp, to go and kill himself like a man
of wealth ! Faugh ! pitch him into the wilderness, and
let him rot ! What rioht has he to the honour of a
shroud and a 1 atrial?" This was the sentiment of the
men who were once his comrades — though not so
forcibly expressed as was done hy little 8ali in his fierce
indignation at the man's presumption.

Early on this morning Lieutenant Stall's and thirty-six
riHes were despatched to make a reconnaissance east-
ward under the guidance of Borvo, and a vouns; ]\lan-
yuema volunteer, as we had yet a few days to wait for
the arrival of several convalescents who, wearied of the
cruelties pi'actised at Ipoto on them, preferred death
on the road to the liorrible servitude of the Manyuema
slaves.

On the I9th Uledi, the coxswain of the Adrancc with
his boat's crew, arrived, reporting that there were fifteen
convalescents on the way. By night they were in the
camp.

On the 21st the reconnoitering party under Lieutenant
Stairs returned, Boryo still accompanying them ; nothing
new al)out the grass land had been obtained, but they
reported a tolerably good path leading steadily east-
ward, which Avas as comforting news as we could expect.

On the 23rd, the last day of our stay at Ibwiri, there
was a muster and reorganization : —

No. 1 coniimny, Jephsou ....

No. 2 „ Stairs ....

Soudanese .......

Cooks .......

Boys

Europeans ....
Manyuema guide

175

nun

j»

iW.

IMPROVED COXDJTWy uF THE .VEX.

Zi.>

i"i

Inclusive of (aptain Nelson and Dr. Parke there were
twenty-eiii'lit at I})oto ; we had left to recuperate at
I'uarrowwas tifty-six. Some from Nelson's starvation
cani[) under L'lnari. tlie headman, prohahly ten, might
return ; so that we reckoned the numher of the advance
column to he 208 still livini;' out of 'AH\) men who had
de[)arted from Yamhuya l.'il) days previously, and put
down our loss at 111. We were greatlv mistaken,
however, for hy this date many of the sick at Igurvowwa's
had died, and the condition of the sick at Ipoto was
(h'plorahle.

Since our arrival at Ihwiri the majority of our followers
had gained weight of hody at the rate of a pound per
day. Some were positively huge in girth ; their eyes
had hecome lustrous, and their skins glossy like oiled
hronze. For the last three nights they had ventured
upon songs ; they hummed their tunes as they pounded
their corn ; they sani'' as thev ga/fd at the moon at
nin'ht after their evening meal. Frecaientlv a heart v laugh
had heen heard. In the afternoon of this day a sparring
match took })hu'e ]»etween two young fellows, and a good
deal of severe thum])ing was exchanged ; they were
alwa . s "spinning yarns " to interested listeners. Life
had ccmie hack l»y lea])s and hounds. Brooding over
skeletons and death, and nuising on distant friends in
their far-away island, had heen ahandoned for hopeful
chat over the future, ahout the not far distant grass
land with its rolling savannahs, and green champaigns,
ahounding in fat cattle; and they dwelt unctuously on
full udders and massive hum[)s, and heavy tails of sheep,
and granaries of ndllet and sesame, pots of zogga, ])ond)e,
or some other delectahle stimulant, and the Lake Haven,
where the whit 3 man's steamers were at anchor, ap-
peared distinctly i'} their visions.

They all now desired the march, for the halt had heen
<|uite sutticit^nt. There were twenty peiha})s to whom
another fortnight's rest was necessary, hut they all
appeared to me to have hegun recovery, and. ])rovided
food was altundant, their marching without loads would
not l.»e hurtful.

1HH7.
Nov. 23.

Ibwiri.

tip ■ill

27B

7.V DARKEST AFUirA.

ii!it

! if

; m

8 .■ r . (.

ittill If

1887.
Nov. 24.

Iljwiri.

At (lawn of the l)iiulit and sunny day, 24tli of Novem-
her, the Soudanese trumpeter l)le\v the signal witli such
cheery strains that found a ready response from every
man. The men sliouted their '* Keady, aye ready.
Master ! " in a manner that more remin<led me of former
expe<litions, tlian (►f any (hiy we liad known on this.
Tliere was no need of the officers ])ec(miing exasperated
at dekys of laii^ards and the unwillinii' ; there was not
a nndiniijerer in the camp. Every face was lit up witli
hopefuhiess. A prospective al>undance of ixood cheer
invited them on. For two (hiys aliead the path was known
by tliose of the reconnaissance, and tlie mem])ers of the
party had, like Calel) and Joshua, ex})atiate<l upcm the
immense and pendent clusters of })lantains ettusing
delicious odours of ripeness, and upon the garden plots of
potatoes, and waving fields of maize, &e. Therefore, for
once, we were relieved from the anxiety as to who sliouhl
take this load, or that hox ; there was no searching
a])out for the carriers, no expostulations nor threats,
])ut the men literally leaped to the goods pile, fought
for the loads, and laughed with joy ; and the officers
faces wore grateful smiles, and expressed perfect content-
ment with events.

We filed out of the village, a column of the happiest
fellows alive. The accursed Manyuema were behind us,
and in our froi^^ rose in our imaginations vivid pictures
of pastoral lands, <ind a great lake on whose shores we
were to be greeted by a grateful Pasha, and a no less
grateful armv of men.

In forty-five minutes we arrived at Borvo's village
(tlie chief had been I'cleased the day before), a h)ng,
orderly arrangement of a street .S:] feet wide, flanked
))y four low blocks of buihlings 400 yards in length.
According to the (h>ors we judged that fifty-two families
had formed Borvo's particular community. The chiefs
house was rec(><»nizcd bv an immense slal» of wood four
feet wide and six feet long, and two inches thick ; its
doorway Iteing cut out of this in a diamond figure.

The height of the broad eaves was 10 feet aliove the
ground, and the houses were 10 feet in width. The

BOliYo'S VIlLAdK.

a I

eaves projected 30 inches in front, and l' feet over tlie
liack walls. Outside of the village extended, over level
and high <i;round, the fields, <j!;ai'dens, and plantations,
hanked all roun<l hv the untouched forest, which looked
dark, ominous, and unwelcome. Alt<)<iether Horyo's vil-
lajie was the neatest and most comfortable we had seen
throuo'hout the vallev of the Aruwimi. One hundred
yards from the western end ran a pereniual and clear
stream, which ahounded with fish (»f the silurus kind.

After a short halt we resnnie<l the journey, and
entered the forest. Four miles heyond Boryo's we
passed over a swamp, which was very favourable to fine
growths of the Raphia palm, and soon after lunched.
In the afternoon I undertook, as an ex})eriment, to
count my paces for an hour, and to measure a space of
200 yards, to find the mnnher of inches to a pace, and
found that the avei'a^e rate in a fair track through the
forest was 4800 })aces of '1(\ inches lon^' = :\A1() yards
per hour. At 3 o'clock we cani[)ed in an ext<'nsive
pigmies' village. '''he site connnaniled four several
roads, leading to villages. There is no douht it was a
favourite spot, for the village common w<(S well tam])e<l
and ada[)te(l for sport, gossip, and meetings. The hush
aroun<l the camj) was ([uite untlisturhed.

On the 25th, afti-r 8| miles march, we reached
Indemwani. Our track led along the water-}»arting
between the Ituri and I hum rivers. The village was of
oval shape, similar in architecture to Boryo's. A wealth
<»f [)lantains surrounded it, and Imlian corn, tobacco,
beans, and tomatoes were ])!entiful. In passing through
the (dearin"\ over a fearful confusion (tf lous. one of oui'
men lo])ple«l over, and fell and broke liis neck.

From Indemwani we moved on the iMith t(» West
Indenduru, through a most humid land. Streams were
(■rosse<l at every mile ; moss, wet and diipping, clothed
stems from base to top. Fven shrubs and \ines were
covered with it.

A peculiarity of this day's march was a bioad highway,
cut and cleared for 3 miles thi'ough the undergrowth,
which was terminated by a large village of the })igmies,

IS87.
Nov. 24,

Ibwiri.

k:Ji

It;
I

': ''I J?|

'J:
'<k li

■II

278

' ' ' • ^ 1
'. '■ - '.

. ■ \ ,
1

11 i ■ ,

f jl!

I'^hI

jy DAIIKKST AFRICA.

•2(;
ludtiudurii.

18H7. l»ut recently vacated. Tliere were ninety-two liutSj
\vhi<'li we may take to represent ninety-two families, or
therea])outs. There was one hut iirore pretentious than
the others, which j^ossildy was the chief's house, ^^'e
had seen nowahout twenty villages of the foi'est })i<iniies,
))ut ns yet we hud only viewed the pretty little wcmii

at [I

iiarrowwu-

-tl

le nuniature

I Tel

le.

Lieutenant Stairs, dui'inu' his reconnais.sance fi'om
Ihwiri, hud reached West Indenduru. and hud left the
village standing' ; but because he hud oc( u]»ied it, the
natives hud set tire to it ufter his de[)aiture. \Ve observed
also that the Balesse seldom ate of the })roduce of u field
twice, und that a plantain urove. after beaiing fruit once,
is al)undone(l for another ; and a corn i)lot, after being
tilled, sown, and hui'vested, is left to revert to wilder-
ness. They up[)eur to be continuully })luntinu bununus
and preiKirini"' iii'oun<l foi- corn, which accounted for the
innnense clearings we hud pussed, un<l for the thousunds
of trees thut littered the ground in one greut ruin. For

t»ananas or plantanis, tliev snn[)Iv cut down

underwood and [)lunt the young bulbs in u shuUow hole,
with sufficient eurth to keej) it u})right. They then cut
the forest down, und let the trees lie where thev fall.
In six months the Musa bulbs have thriven wondei'fully
under shude and among roots and debris, and grown to
8 feet in height ; witliin a year they have borne fruit.
The Indian <'oi'n or maize i"e(piires sunshine. The trees
are cut down well ubove the buttress, by building scutlblds
10, 15, or even 20 feet high. The logs ure cut u}). und
either split f(tr slubs or lining for the innei- und outer
vvulls of their huts, or scoo))ed out for ti-oughs foi- the
munufucture of pluntuin wine. The brunches ui'e ])iled
uround the [)lot to rot ; they do not burn them, becuuse
thut would im[)overisli the soil, und us the surfuce is rich
in humus, it would burn down to the cluv.

Considering whut greut lubour is involved in the
cleuringof u portion of pi-imevul foi-est. we were tem])ted
to regard the Bulesse us very foolish in burning their
villages for such a trivial cause as one night's occupation
ot them by strangers ; but it is an instance of the

HAST AM) WEST ISDENDUllU

279

o1)stinate sullennoss of tliosc people. IJoiyo's villauo,
for instance, could scan-ely lie constnictecl under a
twelvemonth. The population of the largest villauc we
saw could not exceed (JOG souls; hut while we wonder

Nov. -•').
liiik'Hilurit

at tl

leu' prejudK-es, we nuis

t award civdit to them f(

great industry ami unlimited patience to produce such

«1

)ien(

lid

results as we ohservec

Kast Indenduru was also an exceedinoly well-ltuilt
village, and extremely clean, thouuli the houses within
swarmed with vermin. The stivet, however, was too
naiTow for the heij^ht of the liuildinus, and a fire occuniiin"
in the ni^ht niiuht easily have consumecl half the inliahi-
tants. For the huts were liiii'hei* than at Horyos, and as
the huildin^ii's were a few hundred yai'ds in leniith, and had
only one principal exit at the eastein end, the danucr of
a tire was such that we did not occui)vit without havinii'
taken many })recautions to avoid a possible disaster in
what apjK'ai'ed to l)e a ])erfect trap.

Fiehl-heans. of a dark variety, were gathered l»y the
bushel, and oui' nu'ii jevelled in the juice of the suiiar-

cane.

e we

re now in S. Lat. \ 221' and south of the

watershed, all streams flowing towards the ituri.

On the 28th we halted in Fast Indenduru, and sent
three sepai'ate reconnoitrinii' ] arties to obtain a knowledge
of the oeneral dii-ection of the loutes leadinu' out of the
settlement. We had tested the task of form in u' our own
track throu^iih the foi-est long enouuh, and ha.ing dis-
covered one which had been of i-uch service to us, we
were loth to revert to the tedious labour of travellino-
through jungles and undei'growth again.

Jepl

ison s ])artv ])rocee(

led S.S. F., and Hnallv S., and

at noon tui'ued back to re})ort. This road would not do
for us. Eashid's partv took one leading F.N.F., an<l
finallv north, throuuh two small villages, one jiath return-

mg sou

therb

v, another u'oniu' north-easterl\

Continuing

Ids explorations along the latter, he came to a native

cam]). There was a slight skiiini?

h : th(» natives W^^d. and

he obtained a pi'ize of nine fat goats, only five

> o

thev 1

)rou<

oht t

o cami

riiis road wouhl not suit us ei

f which
ther.

-11

280

AV DAUKEHT AFh'fCA.

¥ ^. i

'■^■'

:' I

J ' ■ 1

ii'i

' il

hiiiiii

^1?^

i.i

1SH7.

Nov. -ix.
Indenduru.

A tliird search party was led by a famous scout, wlio
discovered one path heading easterly. We resolved to
adopt this.

On the 29th we left Indenduru and journeved to

Ind(

eDessu

1)V noon, and in the aftenn

ton sheerec

1 1

northerly })ath to the settlement of the Baburu, having
accom[)lished a distance often miles in five hours, which
was exceedingly fair walking.

On the next nioi'iiing, after a march of an hour and a
half along a tolerably good path, we emerged in front of an
extensive <-learing of about 240 acres. The trees were but
recently cut. This marked the advent of a powerful tribe,
or a late removal to new uround of old settlers of some
numerical force, resolved upon securing many creature
eomforts. A captive woman of the Waburu led the way
through the mitldle of this wide abattis. the very sight
of which was a[)palling. An hour later we had crossed

us. not without bruisei

d sh

uns and nuich treml>

linu'.

and the path then led up an easy ascent up a prolonged
span of a hill. The hollows on either side of it showed
prodigious groves of |)lantains and many gardens, ill-,
kept, devotcil to hei'bs and gourds. Within thirty minutes
from the sununit of the ascent we had reached an altitude
that promised to give us shortly a more extended view
than any we had been hitely accustomed to, and we
pressed gladly upwards, and soon eutei'ed a series of
villages that followed the slope. A village of these jtart
al ' " " ' ■

ways gave us a highway well trodden, from fortv to
sixtv feet wide; in a series of this tvpe of villages we
should soon be able to pace a mile. We had passed
tl

d til

ite h

blocks of I(

>tr

irougli several tine separal
tures. when the foremost of the advance guard was seen
running swiftly (h)wn to meet me. He asked me to look
towards the sunrise, and. turning my eyes in that
direction, thev were met bv the liratifvinu' sioht of a
fairly varied scene of pasture-land and forest, of level
champaigns and grassy slopes of valleys and hills,
rocky knolls and softly rounded emiiuMices, a veritable
"land of hills and valleys, that drinketh the rain of
heaven." That the opeu couutry was well watered was

uuTtiKinrs OF THE fuuest.

L'.Sl

in(li<atotl ]>y tlio many irregular lines of woods wliidi
niarki'd the course's of tlio streams, and l)y the (•lumj)s of
trees, whose crowns just rose aliove tlieir slopino- jianks.
The iireat forest in wliicli we had lieen so lon_u' liuried,
and wliose limits were in view, ajipeared to contimie in-
tact and unbroken to the X.E.. Itut to the E. of it was
an altogether diiierent region of urassy meads an«l plains
and hills, freely sprinkled with ,ur<»ves. clusters, and thin
lines of trees u[) to certain ranges of hills that ltoun<UMl
the vision, and at wliose liase I knew must Ite the udal
whither we hail for m<»nths desired to reach.

1SS7.
X(u-. :fO.

Biikwuru.

' I'l y-\-

1:1

VIEW OF JIOINT I'lSGAH KliuM THK i; ASTWAKD.

This, then, was the lon^- [)romised view and the lon_o-
expected exit out of uloom ! Therefore 1 called the tall
peak terminating' the forested I'id^e. of which the spur
whereon we stood was a part, and that rose two miles E.
of us to a height of 4(500 feet above the sea, Pis^ali, —
Mount Pisoah. — because, after I5G davs of twilight in
the primeval forest, we had first viewed the desired
pasturelands of E(|uatoria.

The men crowded up the slope eauerly with incjuirino
open-eyed looks, which, before they worded their thoughts,
we knew meant " is it true ^ Is it no hoax ■ Can it be

2S2

/X l>AI,'Ki-:sr AFItlCA.

tiil

lHi7.

Isdv. :in.

Biikwuru.

possildc tlli'.t \V

arc near tlir cii-l of this foi'tst iioJl ?

riiey were (••iiviiictMl rlicinsclNcs in a tV'W inoiiicnts at'ttT
tliev luid (lrti|)]MMl their Iturdcns. and rcuai'diMl rhu view
with W()ii(h'iini4' and dcliiiiitcd surprise.

Axe, tVicn

Is. it

IS I rue.

I5v tl

le lliercv (

.fdod

WO art'

ell niuh the cikI <>f our j)ris(Hi and dunucon!" 'I'lii^*}'
hrhl tht'ir liaiids far out yeai'iiinuiy towards the suj)ei'I»
land, and each looked uj) to tlic hriuht l»hie heaven in
uratei'nl worship, and aftor they liad Liazetj as tliou«;h
fascinated, thcv recovered then»sel\es witii a deep sioli,
and as they tui'ned tlieir lieads, h) ! the sahh' f »rest heaved
away to the infinity of the west, and tliey shooi< their
clenched hands at it with gestures of defiance and hate.
Feverish fronisuchlen exaltation, they apostro[)hised it for
its crueitN' to themselves and their kinsmen : tl

lev com-

pared it to Hell, they accused it of the nnirder of one
liundi'ed of theii' comrades, they called it the wilderness
of fun_ni and wood-lieans ; hut the yreat foi'cst whicli lay
vast as a continent hefore them, and drowsy, like a ureat
heast, with monstrous fur thinly veiled Ky va[)orous ex-
halations, auswei'ed not a word, hut rested in its intinite

suilenness. remorseless and nn|)lacaiile as ever.

From S. F. to S. extended a ranue of mountains li,"-
tween (5,000 and 7,000 feet ahove the sea. One woman
ca[)tive indicated S.F. as ou)" future direction to the <.'reat
water that " rolled incessantly on tlu' shore with a Itoom-
in^' noise, liftinu' and drivino' the sand hefore it,"' l)Ut as
we were in S. Lat. 1^ •i'i', on the same })arallel as Ivavalli.
oui' ohjective point, 1 preferred aiming east, straight to-
wai'ds it.

Old liorvo. chief of Ihwiii, had drawn with his hand a
semicii'cle from S. F. to N.W. as the coui'se of the Ituri
River, and said that the river rose froma])lain at the foot
of a great hill, or a range of hills. To the S. F. of Fisgah
we could see no plain, hut a deep wooded valley, and unless
our eyes deceived us, the forest seeme<l to ascen<l U]) the
slopes of the range as far as its summits. Five months
of travel in one

continuous forest was surely ex})erience
enough : a change would therefore lie agreeahle, even if
we varied hut our hardships. This was another reason

MolXr I'iSdAll.

2s,S

liakwui II.

nil.' I proposed to (It'clinc all atlvice upon the pi'opcr \^^'>-
j)atli IcafliiiLi to tlic •■ uvcar watci"."

Ill the villaLi'e of the Ijakwiini, in wliidi we now j)ro-
j)ai'C(l to ('n('ain[), we found sIccncIcss vests of thick liuH'alo
hide, which our men secured, as firtinii' armour auainst
the arrows of the trihes of the ^rass land.

(hi the 1st of Decemlier we retrace(l (»ui' st '})s down
tlie s[)ur. and then struck alonu' a track runniiii,^ easterly,
lu a short time we ascended another s[)ui' ieadinn' up to

VlI.I.Adl'.S iiF THK liAKWTlir ON A Sl'l 1! OF I'lMiAH.

a terrace helow ]*i,;oidi peak, where we olitained the
highest reading' of the aneroid that we had yet reached.
We then followed a path leadin<>' from the terrace (h)wn
another spur to the average level, A numl)er of well-
defined and trodden roads were crossed, hut our })atli
seemed to increase in importance until, at 11.15 a.m., we
entered the hiroe villaiie of lyuiiu, which, of course, was
<{uite deserted, so (juickly do the natives of the forest
seem to ])e apprised of new arrivals. Tlie street of this
vilhio'e was fortv feet wide.

V'i

; T!

284

IX DA UK EST AinK'A.

1HH7.
Dec. 1,

We (»lisc'rv('(l a ('oHsidcniMc di'viiess in the woods lie
twcoii Pisojili l»ase and lyuuu, wliidi was a _<>TL'at ('lian,i>o
Bakwuni. ^^.^^^^^ j.|,jj^. (.xccssivc li'Mniditv felt and seen between
Indenduiu a'- ' 'Itwiri. Tlie fallen forest leaves had Ji
sli^u'htlv el' ook altout them and crackled under onr

feet, and the track, thou;^li still in primeval shade, had
somewhat of the dusty appearance of a village street.

?^"i

i.21'

ft!

f\\

After the noon :f'^}i'plll halt we made a
two hours' march '. / ■ to a small villaoe

consisting of three ' conical huts, near

which we camped. Thouoli we had travelled t>ver ten
miles we miuht have been hundreds of miles yet from
the open countrv for all \.\i culd leather frcmi our
8urroun<lint's. For thev were, as usual, of tall dense
woods, of true tropic charactei'. dark, somhrous and
high, ])ound one to the other with creepers and vines,
and a thi<'k underiirowth throve under the shades.

1I7-; lU'.Aril THE I'AsTr nil- LAS iK

28;'

We. liowovor. picl\<'(l up a .sti'jinuc aiiow in ouo of ins;

tlio Imts, wliirli (liH'i'r«'il on-jitlv tVom anv wo

ha.l

a>; vt't seen. It was rwciity-ciulir iiiflics in Icnutli,
and its point was sju'ar-slwqu'd, and three iiicl

les

lony-. Its shaft was a li.uht reed eane. heaulifnlly and
finelv notched tor (h'coration, a thin trianLiuhu-sha[)e«l

pie

ce o

t" kid h'ather directed

the arrow, instead of" a leaf
or a piece of l»hick (loth as
hitherto. A (piiver full of
forest-trilte arrows was also
foun<l, and thev were twentv
inches Ion*;,', and each arrow-
head dirt'ered from the other.

thounh each was luurderousU
sharp and harhed.

On the I'nd of l)e<'eiiil>or,

d't

soon alter Jeavmu'

le canii)

we lost the native roa<l, and
had to pick our way amongst
a })er})lexin_i'' nund»er of hutlalo
aiul elephant tra<'ks. A stupid
fellow, who had lieen out
wandering-, had informed us
that he had reached the plain
the night l»efoi'e, and that he
couhl easily ouide us to it.
Trustino' in him, we soon lost
all siyns of a track, and hej^an
a crooked and erratic course

irouL

fh th

Ml woods, as in times
After nearly three

CllIKF DP 'IHI-: IYl(iU.

1>IM', I.

Uakwuru.

l)ast.

hours' travelling' X. l»y E. we

stumbled ui)on a villai>e, whose conical roofs were

thatched with yra.-

us was a u'l'and discovery, an(

was hailed with cheers. One fellow literally rushed to
the grass and kissed it loviniily. Already there were
two chai'a<'teristics of ])astui'e-land hefore us, the cone
hut and the grass thatch. We halted for a noon rest,
and a few young men took advantage of it to exphn-e,

t '

il:l

r:!

t!:j:i»

'i- :'

111

I !

2s<)

/.V h.\ltl\i:sT Al'ltli'A.

1 7. Mild ln'lnrt' the llil 1 1 ill'i-t illic was f\|)il(Ml ludllLlIlt !<• lis

a liiiiicli (»!' Liri'cii ,i:ifis.>. wliirh was hailed with dcx »iit
raptihcs. lis Noah and his taniilv iiia\' liavi- haih'd tiic

Due. •.'
Imli'SuiM.

I<iiidl\' doNc with ihc olive inaiirh

()U('\('i'. thcv

l'('|)(irt('d that the wa\' tlicx had lullowcd led to a swamp,
and swaiii|»s KciiiLi '"> hoirnr to a laden earaxaii. our
titU'i'iiooii inarch was made in a S.S. M. ilireetioii. wliieh
in ninety miniites liioiinhi us to Indesura. another
vilhmc, or rather a distri<-r. eonsistinu' of several small

M'ttlements of eoiie huts thatehed with <_iras.>

ere

we ha

Ited.

aviiiu' occasion to repair a root a man niounte<l to

ited t<

the lop ot" a house, and looking round laiiuuidly wa.-
preseiillv seen to lift his hand to his eves and uazc
earnestly. JIc then roarecl out loud enough for th(3
entire villau'c to hear. "I see the lirasslaiid. Oh. hut
we are close to it ! "

" Nay," said ono in re[)Iy, mockinii'ly. "'don't you also
se'O the lake, and the steamer, and that Pasha whom wo
Keek t "

Most of us were, however, stirred Ity the news, and
three men climbed ii[» to the roofs with the activity
of wild cats, otliers climhed to the toi)s of trees, while a
(hirinu' voun<i' fellow climlted one which would have

tasked a monkey almost, and a chorus oi exclamations
rose, "Aye, verily, it is the truth of (rxl, the o})en land
is close to us. and we knew it not! ^^ hy, it is merely
an arrow's Hiuht distant ! Ah, when we reach it, farewell
to darkness and hlindness."

As u man went to draw water from the stream close
l»y. an ancient crone ste})ped out of the bush, and the
man dro[)[)ed his water-pot and seized her. She being
vigorous ami obstinate, like most of her sex just
previous to dotage, made a vigorous defence for her
liberty. A Countess of Salisbury could not have been
more resolute, but the man possessed superior strength
and craft and hauled her into cam}). By dint of smiles
and coaxing and obse<]uiuusly filling u long })ipe for her,
we learned that we were in Indesura, that the i)eople
were called Wanya-Sura, that the villagers (juenched

1 )

!!■.:

!;• i

TOBACCO AT INUE-SUHA.

289

tlieir thirst witli tlic wnterw of tlie Ituri. "The Ituri ? "
"Ay, the Ituri ; this stream close l»y ;" that many days
east of us was a great })roa(l river, ever so mu(^h
))roa(ler than tlie Ituri, witli canoes as wide as a house
(ten feet) wliicli wouhl carry six ])eople {.svV') ; tliat a
few days nortli there was a mighty trihe called the
Banzanza, and east of them another people called the
liakandi, and both of these ti'ihes possessed numerous
herds (jf cattle, an<l were very valoi'ous and warlike, and
who were rich in cattle, cowries, and brass wiie.

Our ancient captive, who was somewhat peculiar for
her taste in personal (h'coi-ation by having a wooden
disk of the size of an ulster button inti'uded into the
centre of her u})pei' lip, was now seized with another fit
of obstinacv and scowled malignantly at all of us except
at a bashful smootli-faced youth upon whom she
a})})arently doted, but the foolish youth ascribed the
usiliness of auedness to witchcraft, and fled fiom her.

Inde-sura^ — and, as we discovered latei'. all the villages
situated on the edge of the forest — was remarkable Ibr
the varietv and excellent (|uality of its products. Mostly
all the huts containe*! large baskets of superior tobacco
weighing fnmi twenty lo fifty pounds each, such (pian-
tities, indeed, that every smoker in the cam[) obtained
from five to ten pounds. The crone called it " Taba ; " in
Jbwiri it was called Tabo. Owing to the imperfect dry-
iuLi' it is not fram-ant, but it is extremelv smokable.
Fifty pipefuls a day of it would not [)i'oduce so much
effect on the nerves as one of the article known as
(^avendish. Ihit here and there among the leaves there
were a few of rich brown colour, slinhtlv s])otted with
nitre which produced a difl'erent effect. Two of our
officers ex})erimente(l on a pipeful of this, which they
deemed to be superior, and were inconceivably wi'etched
in conse(pience. When, however, these lea\es ai'(> picked
out, the to])acco is mild and innocuous, as may be
judged by the half-j)int ]>ipe-bowls peculiar to this
region. In every district near the grassland the {)lant
is abundantly cultivated, for the ])urpose of commei'ce
with the herdsmen of the })lains in exchange for meat.

VOL. I. T

1SH7.
Dec. 4.

Indu-sura.

r;ii

290

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Ill I!

' 5

#ii|

!'!^:

1887
Dec. 4.

Inde-sura.

TliG castor-oil pluiit wus also extensively cultivated.
Re/juiring u supply of castor-oil as medicine, the beans
were roasted, and then pounded in a wooden mortar, and
we expressed a fair (juantity, which proved very effective.
We also required a su[)ply for rifles, and their mechanisms,
and the men prepared a supply for anointing their
bodies — an operation which made them appear fresh,
clean, and vigorous.

Having discovered that four of our scouts were
strangely absent, 1 despatched Rasliid bin Omar and
twenty men in search of them. They were discovered
and brought to us next m(jrning, and to my surprise the

ru'Es.

four absentees, led by the incorrigible Juma Waziri, were
driviuii' a tlock of twentv tine goats, which the chief
scout had ca|)tured by a ruse. 1 had often been tem|)ted
to sacrifice Juma for the benefit of others, but the rogue
always appe.ired with such an inoffensive, and crave-
your-humble-pardon kind of face, which could not be
resisted. He was of a handsome Abyssinian type, but the
hypocrisv on his features marred their natural beauty.
A JMliuma, Masai, Mtaturu, or (lalla nuist have meat,
even more so than the Englishman. It is an article of
faith with him, that life is not worth living without an
occasional taste of beef 1 therefore warned Juma again,
und consoled myself with the reflection, that his career

MHii

ivated.

beaiLs
RY, and
"ective.
iiiismw,
•' their

fresh,

^ were
:ir and
overed
ise the

1, wore

le (;hief

nipted

i-ooue
crave-
lot ])e
Hit tlie
)eaiity.

meat,
tide of
Hit an

a_nain,

career

AN INCORRIGIBLE RAIDER.

21>1

as a scout couM only be for a lu'ief time, and that lie
would surely meet natives of craft and courage equal to
his own some day.

We had made an ineffectual start on this day, had
actually left the village a few hundred yards when we
were stopped by the depth of a river forty yards wide
and with a current of two and a half mik's an hour.
The old crone called this the Ituri. Marvelling that
l)etween Ipoto and Il)wiri a river 400 yards wide could
be narrowed to such a narrow stream, we had returned
to Inde-sura for a <lay's halt, and I had immediately after
sent Lieutenant Stairs and ^Ir. -lephson with suthcient
escin't back along yestenhiy's path to find a ford across
the Ituri.

At 4 P.M. both officers returned to i'e])ort a successful
discovery of a ford a mile and a half higher up the
stream, and that they had set foot ii])on the grassland,
in proof of which they held a bunch of fine young
succulent grass. Meantime, Lledi and his })arty had
also found another ford waist deep, still nearer
Indc-sura.

On the evening of this day a ha[)pier community of
men did not exist on the face of the round earth than
those who rejoiced in the camp of Inde-sui-a. On the
morrow they were to bid farewell to the forest. The
green grassy region of which we had dreamed in our
dark hours, when slumbering heavily from exhaustion of
body and prostration from hunger during the days of
starvation, was close at hand. Their pots contained
generous supplies of juicy meat ; in the messes
were roast and hoiled fowls, corn mush, [)lantaiii tlour
[)orridge, and I'ipe bananas. No wonder they were ii(t\v
exubei'antly hap])y, and all except ten or twelve men
were in finer condition tlKdi wlien they had embarked so
hopefully for the journey in the port of Zanzibar.

On the 4tli of December we tile(l out of indc-sura and
proceeded to the ford. It was waist deep, and at this
place fifty yards wide. Two of the aneroids indicated
an altitude of .'U)5() feet above the ocean -IH50 feet
higher than the level of the river at the landing-iilace of

l>! \

t\\ 1

1887.
Dec. 4.

Inild-sura.

M:! (

• I

t< \ I :l

:|:

292

1887.
Dec. 4.

Grass Land.

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Yambuvu, and 2000 feet liiolier than the Conm) at
Stanley Pool.

From the Ituri we entered a narrow })elt of tall timber
<m its left bank, and, after waiting for the column to cross,
marched on, led l)y Mr. Mounteney Jephson along a })road
elephant track for about GOO yards, and then, to our
undisguised joy, emerged upon a rolling plain, green as
an English lawn, into broadest, sweetest daylight, and
warm and glorious sunshine, to inhale the pure air
with an uncontrollable rapture. Judging of the feelings
of others by my own, we felt as if we had thrown all age
and a score of years away, as we stepped with invigorated
limbs u])on the soft sward of vounii' <>Tass. We sti'ode
forward at a pace most unusual, and finally, unable to
suppress our emotions, the whole caravan broke into a
run. Everv man's heart seemed enhuged and lifted ui)
with bovish gladness. The l)lue heaven above us never
seemed so spacious, lofty, pure, and serene as at this
moment. We <>azed at the sun itself undaunted 1)V its
glowing l)rightness. The young grass, only a month
since the burning of the old, was caressed l»v a bland,
8oft })reeze, and turned itself about as if to show us its
lovely shades of tender green. Birds, so h)ng estranged
from us. sailed and soared through the lucent atmosphere ;
aiitelones and elands stood on a orassv eminence o-azinu'
and wondering, and then bounded upward and halted
snorting their sur})rise, to which our own was ecjual ;
buffaloes lifted their heads in amazement at the intruders
on their silent domain, heaved their bulky forms, and
troope<I away to a safer dijstanie. A hundred s(|uare
miles of glorious c(nintry opened to our view — apparently
deserted — for we had not as yet been able to search out
the fine details of it. Leaoucs upon leagues of briuht
green pasture land undulated in gentle waves, intersected
by narrow winding lines of umbrageous trees that filled
the hollows, scores of gentle hills studded with dark
clum])s of thicket, gra<'ed here and there by a stately
tree, lorded it over level breadths of pasture and softly
sloping champaigns ; and far away to the east rose some
frowning ranges of mountains beyond which we were

I
I

WE REACH THE GltAHS LAND.

20;-,

certain slept in its deep gulf the blue Albert. Tntil \^f<i.
breatlilessiiess forced a halt, the caravan had sped on the ^^'^' *'
double-! piick — for this was also a pleasure that had been "^'"^'^ **" *
lono' deferred.

Then we halted on the crest of a commandino' hill to
drink the beauty of a scene to which we knew no
rival, which had })een the sul)ject of our thou<^hts and
dreams for months, and now we were made " glad ac-
cording to the days wherein we had been afflicted and
the period wherein we had seen evil." Every face gloated
over the beauty of the landscape and reflected the secret
pleasure of the heart. The men were radiant with the
fulfilment of dear desires. Distrust and sullenness were
now utterlv banished. We were like men out of durance

•J

and the dungeon free and unfettered, having exchanged
foulness and (hmip for sweetness and purity, darkness
and o'locmi for divine liiiht and wholesome air. ( )ur
eyes followed the obscure track, roved over the pasture
hillocks, great and small, every bosky islet and swarded
level around it, aloni*' the irregularities of the forest line
that r(jse (hirklv funereal behind us, advancinu' here,
recedino- there, vonder assuminn' a bav-like canoe, here
a cape-like })oint. The mind grasped the minutest
peculiarity around as quick as vision, to cling to it for
many, many years. A scoi-e of years hence, if we live so
long, let but allusion l)e made to this happy hour when
every soul trembled with joy, and praise rose spon-
taneously on every lip, and we shall l)e able to map the
whole with precision and fidelity.

After examining the contour of the new region before
us with the practical view of laying a course free from
river or swanij), I k'd the Expedition N.N.E. to a rocky
kno]] which was about four miles from us. in order to
stiike the southern base of a certain hilly range that
ran E. by S. from the knoll. I imagined we should
then be able to travel over upland, trending easterly,
without much incxmvenience.

^^ e reached the base of the rock-heap that stcKxl about

•300 feet above the vallev to our riuht, then ])erceivin<i:

111 '' 1 ^

that the obscure game track we had followed had de-

I'll

1 1

f i

iif"^

290

TN DARKKHT AFRICA.

1887. volopod into a native liii;li\vay running N.E., we struck
^"*'- '*• across tlie grassy upland to retain our liold uiK.n tlie

Grass L.iiiil. i i '• i .i i j_ i v

crown wc had gamed, the short young grass enal)ling us
to do so without fatigue, i^ut near noon tlie tall unl)urnt
gi'ass of last senson interi'upted our too-easy advance
with its tangle of robust stalks of close growth ; l)ut we
l»ore on until 12.;U),and after an hour of serious exercise
halted l»y the side of a crystal stream for refreshments.

Ill the afternoon we hrejisted the o[)posing grassy
slope, and, after an hour and a half of rapid pacing, selected
a camp near the junction of two streams, which flowed
south-easterly. Relieved from their huriens, a few tireless
fellows set out to forage in some villages we had observed
far below our line of march in the vallev. The sudden-
ness of their descent among tlie natives provided them
with a lich stoi-e of fowls, sugar-cane, and ripe branches
of bananas. They brought us specimens of the weapons
of this new land : several long bows and lengthy arrows ;
shields of a heavy rectangular form, formed of a double
row of touii'li rods crossed, and tii>htlv bound together
with fibre and smeared with some gummy substance.
They presented very neat workmanship, and were alto-
gether impenetrable to arrows or spears. Besides shields
the natives wore vests of buffalo hide, which appeared to
be ([uite impervious to pistol shots.

Our course as far as the rocky knoll already described
was nearly parallel with the edge of the forest, our path
varying in distance from it from a half mile to a mile
and a half As a sea or a lake indents its shore, so
appeared the view of the line of forest.

The trend of the Ituri that we had crossed, which we
must call West Ituri, was E.8.E.. I should have esti-
mated the source of the river to have been distant from
the crossing about 25 geographical miles N.N.W.

On the next day we advanced up a long slope of short
orass land, and on the crest halted to arranue the
column with more order, lest we might be suddenly
confronted l)y an overwhelming force, for we were as
yet ignorant of the land, its people, and the habits of
those among whom we liad dropped so suchlenly.

I' I'

THE ITVRT nnEIi.

20;

Miii'cliini>; forward we cliose a slight track tliat followed
the crest leadiii*^' E. by S., hut soon all tr;icos of it were
hxst. However, we were on a commanding' upland, and
a score of miles were visihle to us in any direction out
of which we mio'ht select any course. A villa^'e was in
view N.E. of us, and to it we directed our steps, that
we niii^'ht avail ourselves of a path, for the (dosely-
pa"ked acreages of reedy cane and tifteen-feet-hi_i>h oi-ass,
rliat we stumbled upon occasionally, were as had as the
underuTowth of the iunole. The verv tallest and
rankest o;rass impeded us, and pi-evented rapid advance.
We crossed jungly gullies, on whose muchly ground were
imi)ressed the feet of lions and leopards, and finally
entered a tract ot acacia thorn, which was a sore an-
novance, and out of this last we emeroed into the
millet fields of i\ll)iri. In a few seconds the natives
were warned of our approach, and fled instinctively, and,
Parthian-like, shot their lono- arrows. The scouts dashed
across every obstacle, and seized a young w<mian and a
lad of twelve, who were the means of instructino- our
poor ignoran(;e. No long conversation could be main-
tained with them, owing to our very imperfect knowledge
of any dialect spoken near this region, but a few names
of nouns assisted bv oestures ])roui'ht out the fact that
we were in the district of ^Ibiri, that the main road
easterlv would take us to llie Bal)U'-iesse countrv, that
beyond them lay the Abunguma, all of which naturally
we heard with supreme indifference. What did such
names convey to dull senses and, blank minds ? They
had never heard of Shakespeare, jMilton, or even of Her
^lajesty the Queen

" Had any of them heard of Muta, or Luta Xzige ? "

A shake of the head.

"OfUnyoro?"

"Unvoro? Yes. Unvoro lies a o-reat way oftV'
pohiting east.

" ( )f a great water near Unyoro ? "

" The Ituri, you mean !* "

" No, wider ; ever so much wider than the Ituri — as
wide as all this plain."

1«87.
IVc. 4.

Grass Land

' f

>>■;

ti,

t !

!•*'

2\m

IN DAIiKEHT AFRKW.

1WH7.
Dec. J.

iJabusessc.

It M

1 ■ ■ ": Ml

■ ' ■ , ( t .

■iiir ''

r 11 ^^ •

But instoud of coiitiiiiii,!;' tlienisclvos to moiiosyllal)los,
wliicli we niiniit easily litive understood, tlie wretched
woman and hoy, anxious to convey too nuich informa-
tion, smothered comprehension hy voluhh' talk in their
dialect, and so perplexed us that we had recourse to
.silence and patience. They would show us the way to
Bal)usesse at least.

The mode of hut construction is similar to that seen
all over East and Central Africa. It is the most
popular. A c(jne roof ()ccu})ies two-thirds of the height ;
one-tliird is devoted to the hei<i,ht of the walls. Huts
of this pattern, scattered anKMio'st the banana proves, are
found every few dozen yards. Paths lead from one to the
other, and are most batHino' to the stranuer, who without
a local guide nmst necessarily oo asti'ay. To every
group of huts there are attached outhouses for cooking-
sheds, for gossip, to store fuel, and doing chords ; also
circular grass-walled and thatched little granaries raised
a foot or so altove the ground as protection against
vermin and dam[).

Our people obtained a large quantity of ripe plan-
tains and ripe bananas, out of which the aborigines
niaimfacture an intoxicating wine called nidnnt. A few
goats were also added to our flock, and about a dozen
fowls were taken. All else were left untouched accordino;
to custom, and we resumed our journe}'.

The path was well trodden. Traffic and travel had
tamped it hard and smooth. It led S.E. by E. up and
down orassv hills and vales. Near noon we halted for
refreshments, shaded ])y fine woods, and close by
boomed a loud cataract of tlie Ituri, we were told.
This was rather puzzling. We could not understand
how the Ituri, wliicli we had forded the day l»efore,
could be roaring over precipices and terraces at this
high altitude, and after we had purposely struck away
from its valley to avoid it.

A march of an hour and a half in the afternoon,
apparently not very far from the river, brought us
to the populous district of the Bal)usesse. The banana
plantations w^ere very extensive, reminding me of

DlsrilK'T OF TlIK liAlilSESsf:.

2!M>

U<i:au(la, and their deep shades covered a imdtitude of
liuts. Fiehls of millet and sesame, plots of sweet
potatoes, 0('('n[>ied the outskirts of these j)lantations,
and there was ain|)le evidence round a])out that the
land was thickly pcoj)led and industriously cultivated.

J^efore eiiterinu' the lianana shades we repaired oui'
ranks, and marched in more com])act oidei'. A strong'
hody of men armed with Winchesters formed the
advance <;uard ; a sinular nund)er of men armed with
lleminutons, under the command of Stairs, closed the
rear of the column. But however well cautioned the
men were against hreakino;
rank, no sooner had the

lisafel'

a(l\ance o;uar< l [)asse(
through a dan<;erous local-
ity than the main hody in-
variably despatched scores
of looters into huts and
granaries to hunt up hooty
and fowls, bananas, goats,
suaar-cane, and trivial

ticle^

no eai

thb

ar-
use.

SHIELDS i)K l!AItr8i.;SSi;.

1HH7.
Ii;il)ii8es.>-i;

These plantations hid a
large nund>ei' of natives,
who permitted the advance
to pass because their files
were unbroken, and their
eyes on the watch, but those

straggling looters soon gave the aborigines the oppor-
tunity. Some arrows fiew well aimed ; one pinned a
man's arm to his side, another glancing from a ril)
admonished its owner of his follv. A vollev from ritlcs
drove the men awa\' from their covert without harm
to any of them.

At the easternmost settlement we camped. There
were only two lai'ge conical huts and other outhouses in
it, and around these the huts for the night were ar-
ranged hastily, put up with banana leaves sutticieiu to
shed rain and (.lew.

At dusk 1 called the captives to me again, and at-

m \

• t •

W-

) I !

300

7.V DA UK EST AFIlTCA,

(

!. I I

■ ii'

ift87. tempted, diirin^j,' half an liour, to gain a lucid answoi to

Dec. o. |.jj^ (nu'stion as to wliether there was a great hody of

a iibcssi.. ^^..^^^,j. ^jj. o'jvat river east of us. AVlien one <)f the head-

uicu who wei'e assisting us demanded to know wliicli was

the hirgest Nyanza, tiuitof Unyoro, or that of Iganchi —

"Nyanzal" criccl tlie native 1)oy — " Nyanza i" Ay,
the Nyan/a lies this way" (pointing east) "and extends
that way" (north-east) " a Jong distance;" and when
asked how many'' sleeps" intervened hetween the Uahu-
sesse, held up three fingers on his dexter hand, and
answered " tiiree."

'^t was now dark, and we were suddenly startled ])y a
shriek of pain, and a secjuent yell singulai'lv weii'd, and
with a note of triumph in it, and in the silence that
followed we heard the hurtling of arrows through th<'
banana leaves above our heads,

" Put out the fires ! Keep cool. Where are the
sentries ? Why are they not at their posts ? " were the
next words uttered.

The natives had stolen on us at the very hour when
the camp was least watched, for it was supper-time, and
the guards, exeept on unusual oc-casions, were permitted
to feed before '^oini'' out on guard dutv for the ni"ht.
AVe soon ascertained that one arrow had penetrated the
thigh of a man named Salim to the de])th of four inches,
another had "••';rced the roast leg of a kid before the fire,
several others had perforated banana stalks. Salim, after
a little coaxing, bravely drew out the shaft until the
barbed point was seen, when, with a wreneh, I extracted
it with a pair of pincers. Eucalyptine was then ap[)lied
to the wound, and the man was sent to his ([uarters.

Half an hour later, all the guards being now on duty,
however, the natives essayed anothei- (piarter of the
eamp, but the rifie-shots rang out (piickly in re])ly, and
there was a scamper and a rustle heard. In the distance
we heard two rifles fired, and an aoonised crv, bv which
we knew that there were some of our incorrigil)le looters
abroad.

Our f(jrce was weak enough, in all conseienee, not in
numbers, but in real strength, for defence and eapacity

NA'rn'ES ATTACK TIIK CAMI'.

301

for I)

)Oiirin'x niiinmmtion, mik t ipso wjuk crcrs woroahvav.s isa?.

ilw

a source of j^rcat auxictv to mo.

was usek'ss to reason

and ex[)ostulate ; only «lo\vnri;i;lit severity resti'ainecl

Dec.

Bat

lenj, and as yet, so iresli were we tioni

tlie I

lorrois
of the forest, that 1 lia<l not tlie moral eoiira<^e to
apply the screw of (lisci[)line ; hut when 1 assumed

mildness, their own heedh'ss impriKh'Uce incuri'ed punish-
ments far more severe tlcin any oi' us would ever have
thought of intlictiny-.

A heavv rain fell on us duiiiifx the niiiht, wliich
(letaine<l us next niorninii; until ( i,nht o'clock. I em-
i)loved the time in extractiiiij' somethino: intellijjiltle

res

[)C(

tiuLi' the charact^'i' of the natives in fi'ont, hut we

were all so profoundly i<;norant of the lan,uua<:;e that we
could make hut litlle headwav. In the eiMh'avoiir to
make herself clear, the woman dr<'w on the (jjround a
sketch of the course of the Ituri. This illustrated one of
the straiii^est facts in African <'eo(ji;ra])hv that one could

nuasjine

le river was reuresen

ted

flS oOlliy up

to th

crest of the watershed, flowing steejjly upwaid parallel
with Lake Albert, and finally lifting itself over to ])e
preci))itated into the Nyanza I Stupefied by what she
said, 1 kept her by me as we marched out of camp into
the open. From the crown of a hill she pointed out,
half a mile below, the Ituri River fiowino- eastward. 'J'he

^tretcl

1 111 view was an e

:lSt 1

itl

)V soutn course.

Now here was a deep puzzle. We had crossed from
the right bank to the left bank of the Ituri two days

)revious

N. Lat. 1° 24' : we were now in N. Lat.

lusi'iiac.

1° 28'. Yet the Ituri we saw flowed E. ])y S. and
E.S.S., and my route to Kavalli was obviously south (^f
east.

I declined to perplex myself any more with the
problem, or in trying to understand wdiat the woman
meant, that the river we had ascended for (JOO miles
from the Congo flowed to the Nyanza, The only
solution possilde was that there were two Ituris, one
flowing to the Congo, the other into the Nile basin ;
but both she and her brother stoutly muintuiued that
tlisrc was only one Ituri.

1 1 1
< I

'.1 i

lit

1,1 .T.

Ill

I .

302

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

1887.
Dec. 5.

Biibusesst'.

We continued on our journey, following a path which
(lipped down into the valley. We presently stood on
the banks of the stream, and the solution was ut hand.
It was the main Ituri River, flowing south of west ! We
are all wise after the event.

There was a clumsy, misshapen canoe in the river,
and as 8aat Tato was an expert canoeist, he was
detailed to ferrv the caravan over for a reward of
20 dollars. The river was 125 yards broad, about seven
feet average depth, with a current of two knots. It
was a cataract of this stream whose low thunder we
had heard near ]\Ibiri.

The natives of Abunguma, on the left side of the
river, watched our operations from a hill-top a mile
otl", with an air of confidence which seemed to say.
" rVll right, friends. When you are through, you will
have to reckon with us." Nothing could be done in
such an open land as this without ' all the world
knowing it." The Abunguma shook their spears bravel}-
at us ; the Babusesse occupied every prominent point
on the right side of the river. it a})peare(l once or
twice as if our manhood was about to l)e tested on an
important scale. There was the ctmifort, however, that,
knowing the natives to be alert and active, we could
not l»e sui'prised on a pasture slope wliere the grass
around the camp was ])ut three inches high.

Since we had entered I])wiri we had fare;l luxuriously
— for Africa. We had enjoyed meat and milk daily.
We ha<^ live<l on fowls, young and dried beans, sugar-
cane, sweet potatoes, yams, colocassia. tomatoes, brin jails,
melons, plantains, and bananas. On the peo})le the
eifect was wonderful. They were men in e\ery resj)ect
superior both in body and s])irit to the gaunt and craven
wi'etches whom the Arab slaves of Ipoto scourged and
speared without moi'e than a mild protest. On the
whites also the eH'ect had l)een most beneficial. Though
spare, we were no longer meagre and haggard ; a little
wine would have coin[)l<'tcd the cure.

A gentle grassy slope, on the next morning, t(^ok us,
in the course of an hour, to the crown of one of those

■ ti

■!i :

SrSPEXSfOX BRIDGE ACIiOSS HIE EAST ITVIil. 808

Ion*;" uiululations so cliaracteristic of this region. It
furnished us with another all-round view peculiarly
interesting to us. Our intended direction was south-
east, as we were hearing for a high conical peak at
the end of a range of grass-covered mountains, which
afterwards hecame known to us as Mazand)oni's l*eak.
AVe dipped down into delightful vales, watered hy cool
and clear hrooks. Close to these wei-e small clusters of
native homesteads, with their fields of unripe sorghum,
sweet potato, and sugar-cane patches, &c. But the
homesteads were all ahandoned, and their owners were
ohserving us from the sky-line of every superioi' hill.
Finally we passed an empty cattle zerilta, the sight of
which was loudlv cheered, and cries of " Av, the master
is right, and every word conies to pass. First will come
the grass-land, then the cattle with hrave men to defend
them, then hills, then the Nyanza, and lastly the white
man. The grass-land we have seen, here is the cattle
yard, yonder are the mountains, the hrave men and the
Nvanza and the white man we shall yet see, please
God."

We bore on our way to a valley through which
another river rushed and roared. On our left was a rugge*!
line of rocks that rose in huge and detached masses, on
the top of which a dozen men might he seated comfort-
ahly. Connecting these huge I'ock masses was a lower
line of rocks, more uniform, forming the hare spine
of a ridge. At some [)laces we passed so close to the
l)ase of this hill that we were within easy stone's throw
of the summits. But though we were pi'epared for a
demonstration, the natives remained sinu'ularlv ouict.
The path we followed halted at a sus[)ension bridge
across a ihird " Ituri," which had better be distinguished
as Kast Ituri to ])i'event misunderstanding. This last
river was thirty yards wide, deep and swift as a i'a|tid.
Spanned bv a bridge of such fragile make that we couhl
only pass one at a time in safety, it re(|uired one
hundred and twenty seconds for a single [)erson to <'i'oss
the ninety-feet span, and the caravan was not on the
other side entirelv l)efore (> p.m. As the crossinu was in

IS87.
Doc. h.

liabiisess(5.

'Vi

!i'

I • !

' ; : . : ,-ia

804

IN DAB REST AFBICA.

't i '

1887.
Dec. 6.

Ituri
River.

a position of great disadvantage, riflemen had been on
the look-out all day.

In the afternoon we saw a fine hlack cow and her calf
issue out of a defile in the r( L-ky ridge just described,
and clamours of " Beef, beef — ay, ])eef, how are you ?
we have not seen you since we were young!" rose loud.
The A])ungunia had hidden their cattle among the rocky
hills, and these specimens had probal)ly been refractory.

Sl'SrKNSlUN HUIDliK ACHOSS TlIK E. ITl'HI.

Leaving the picturesfpie valley of East Ituri on the
8th, wo ascended an easy slope to the top of a hill where
we obtained a long view of the crooked and narrow
valley of the East Itui'i. and vveie able to observe that
it came from an east-south-east direction. Shortly after,

er calf

on the
1 \vliere

naiiow

ve that

1)' after,

lOPUL US SETTLEMENTS.

305

something more like a plain opened ht'fore us, extending
over a score of miles to the south, bordered on the north
l)y the stony ridge and valley we had just left behind,
while to the eastward rose Mazamboni's mountain range,
wlicjse northern end, conspicuous by the tall peak, was
our present objective point.

At 9.150 A.M. we had approached several miles nearer
tliis mountain range, and before descending into the
valley of a streamlet flowing northward, we o])served
with wonder that the whole intervening space as far as
the mountains was one mass of plantations, indicative of
a powerful population. Here tlien, we thought, " will
l)e the tug of war. The Abunguma have left their
settlements in order to join this numerous tribe, and
meet us with a fitting reception." No more populous
settlements had l)een seen since we had departed from
Bangala on the Congo. A suspicion that these were
amono- the confederation of tribes who hemmed in the
poor anxious governor of E(|uatoria also crept into our
minds, as we h)oked upon this huge display of nuni])crs
and evidence of wealth and securitv.

With the view of not provoking the natives, and of
preventing the incorrigible looters of the column from
the commission of mischief, we took a south-east track
to skirt the district. We were able to steer our coui'se
between the plantations, so that no cover was afforded to
an enemy. At ft.lJO we had reached the eastern ex-
tremity of the district, and then rested for the noon halt
and refreshment, under liie shadow of a tree whose
branches rustled before a strong cool breeze from the
Nyanza.

ivcsuming the march at 1 p.m. we entered the depths
of banana plantations, marvelling at the great industry
evinced, and the neatness of the cultivated plots. The
conical homesteads were large and partitioned within, as
we observed while })assing throuidia few open dooi'ways,
by screens of cane grass. Iilverv village was cleanly
swe[)t, as though they had Iteen specially pi'e[)are<l ibr
guests. Each banana stalk was loadecl with bananas,
the potato fields were extensive, the millet fields stretched

VOL. I. U

1887.
Dec. 8.

Undus-
Hiima.

Ill'

■'r i

i!l!|:

ipili!

illl':

■i

■■It

1KH7.
Dec. H.

Uiiilus-
suniM.

3()(')

JX DAIiKKST AFllK'A.

awciy on cither side hy liuiidi'eds of acres. aii<l tlie many
•granaries that had lately heen erected manifested ex-
pectations of a honntiful harvest.

We finally emerged from the corn-fields without heinii'
once annoyed. We thoni^ht the natives had heen cowed
by exan',uerated re})orts of our power, or they had heen
disconcerted l>y our cautious manceuvi-e of leaving a fail'
open niaruin between the line of march and the groves ;

but
tl

10U2'

much to our surprise we encountered no opposition,
1 hu'O'e masses of the aboriuines covered the

eminences

bord

ei'inu' our route.

The broad and well-trodden path towards the moun-

tains w

hich

(11

1 we were nowranidlv ai)i)i'oacliin£'' oise(

Pl>

•h

•ted

almost level plain, three miles wide, rich with i)asture
iirass in flower. The Eastern Ituri was not far olf' on

our left Hank, and on the other side of it

anotiier

popu

ous settlement was in view

At 3 P.M. we arrived at the i)ase of the ^lountain of
the Peak. Many of its highest })oints were crowned
with clusters of huts. The cotes of the ii'itives \vere in

the folds of the mountain frontinu'

u.-

The

pe( ip

gathered in large grou[)s on the nearest summits, and
when we were near enough the shouts of defiance wei'c
uttered with loud and strident voices. We estimated
the average height of the hills nearest to us at about
800 feet above the ])lain. and as the slopes were par-
ticularlv steep we judged their distance to be between
800 and 1000 vards from us.

Much to our pleasure and relief the path, instead of
ascending those stec|) shtpes, skirted their base, and
turned east. ])ursuing the direction we wished being
now in, Nortli Lat. r 25' 30". A valley unfolded to
our view as we rounded the cornei- of the Peak Han^e.

'ith a breadth of one to t\

wo miles wide, w

•hid

1 was

clothed with luxuriant sorghum ri[)ciiing for the sickle.
On our right, rising immediately above us, was the north
side of Mazambonis range ; to our left, the ground.
hid<lcn by crops of grain, slo])ed gradually to a i'a[)id
branch of the East Ituri, and beyond it rose, an
easy slope to a Ijroad horse-shoe shaped grassy

;;*

i: i '

i ,

I'-. i

.•'S

lie muny
sted ex-

ut l>eiii,L!;
m cowed
i;i(l Iteeii
iig' a fair
; groves ;
ipositioii,
gred the

!ie iiioiiii-
>e<'ted an
I pasture
r oti' on
another

intain of
crowned
^ \vere in
e })e<»ple
nits, and
nee were
estimated
at a) tout
^ere par-
l)etween

istead of

)ase, and

ed heing

folded to

k Hanii'e,

hich was

le sickle.

the north

ground.

) a ra])id

rose, an

1 grassy

-3

? 3

O
■■A

! :i

■

^^^7
1

■

If, i I

ill

iii::!

i ftil

ill

MAZAMliOXrS PEAK AND NZEUA NUM.

8()lt

rido'e, studded witli lioiiiestoads, ^reeii witli millet and
coni, and ri<-li in l»anana uroves. One sweeping' view of
our surruundin^^'s impressed us with the prosperity of the
ti'ihe.

On entering this rich crop-bearing valley a chorus of
war-cries pealing menacingly ahove our heads caused us
to h)ok up. The groups had already become more
numerous, until there were probably 300 warriors with
shield, spear, and bow, shaking their flashing weapons,
gesturing with sliield and spear, crying wrathfuUy at us
in some hmguage. Waxing more ungovernable in action
they made a demonstration to descend ; they altered
their intentions, returned to the summit, and kept pace
with us — we along the base, they along the crest of the
fore hills, snarling and yelling, shouting and threatening,
which we took to l)e expressive of hate to us, and
encouragement to those in the valley.

Issuing out of the first series of cornfields, we heard
the war-cries of the valley natives, and comprehended
that they were taking position in favourable localities —
the hill natives warning and guiding them. It was now
near 4 p.m., a time to ])ick out camp, to make ready for
the night in the midst of a population overwhelming in
its numbers. Fortunately, close at hand rose the steep
hill of Nzera Kum with a spur, whose level top rose a
hundred feet above the general face of the valley. It
.stood like an islet in the valley, distant from the river
500 yards, and from the base of Mazamboni's range
200 yards. From the crest of Nzei'a Kum we could
command a view east and west of all the northern face
of the high range, and away over the summit lines of
the horse-shoe ridge, across the Ituri branch. Fifty riHes
<*oul(l hold a camp on such a position against a thousand.
AVe hurried up towards it, the warriors on the range
slopes converging (h)wnward as if divining i/ur intentions ;
a mass of noisy belligerents hastening towards the line
of march from the river bariks. The scouts in the
advance tired a few solitary shots to clear the front, and
we succeeded in reaching the islet hill and scrand>led up.
The loads were thrown dcjwn, a few picked skirmishers

1887.
Dec. 8.

L'liilus-
suma.

, ;

''■I

t!i b

ill:

Mil

iiiii^

( i

310

7.V BARK EST AFRICA.

liil

It '•:

^jtiiliul

Dec. s.

ririiis-
isurna.

were ordered to either liank of the coluiini to assi.st the
rearuuni'd, others were directed to t'orui a zeiiha arcLiiid
the erowii <tt' the spur; a hody of thirty men was sent
to secure water from the rixer. In lialf an hour the
column was safe on the hill, the zeriba was near com-
pletion, there was water for the thirsty, arid we had n
few minutes to draw l»reatli and to oliserve from our
commandinu' elevation what wei-e our surroundings.
The l)ird"s-eve view was not a hit encouraiiinu'. Ahout
fifty villages were sprinkled throu,iih the valley ; plan-
tation after plantation, field after field, village after
village met our vision in every direction. AVhat lay
on the mountains we did not know. The swarms
of lusty-voiced natives on the slopes now nund)ered
over 800. The air seemed filled with the uproar of the
shouts.

The mountaineers appeared disposed to try conclusions
at once. We were fati<iued with the march of 18 miles ;
the hot sun and weight of hurdens had weakened the
physical powers of the men. Some of the hest, how-
ever, were j)ickedout and sent to meet the mountaineers,
while we stood and watched to weiuh the temper of our
opponents. Four of tl'^ scouts were foremost. An
ecjual number of the mou itaineers, not a whit loth for
the encounter, bounded oabanily to meet them. They
intuitively felt that the courage of our four men was
not of the highest order. They approached to within
100 yards of them, and j)repared their bows against the
rifles. Our men delivered their fire harndessly, and
then backed ; the mountaineers advanced, with finders
on their bow-strinii's. ( hir four men fled, while a
hundred voices from our camp, lookini;' down upon the
scene, execrated them. This was a bad bcuinninu' for
our side ; the natives accepted it as a favourable omen
to them, and yelled triumphantly. To check this olow.
our riflemen sought cover, and seriously annoyed the
natives. Some at the extremity of the hill of Nzera Kum
did execution amonu' the mountaincei's on the slope of
the ranue o])positc. at 400 yards distance : others crejtt
down into the vallcv towards the river, and obtained a

llinni

s.sist tlie
L arc and
Vc'is sent
lour the
'cir (M mi-
re had a
I'oni our
undinos,

Aliout
y ; plan-
oe after
riiat h\y
swarms
uniheied
ir of the

ichisions
'A miles ;
^ned the
st, how-
taineers,
_'!• of our
)st. An

h)th for
They
Hen was
witliin
inst tlie
dy. and
1 tinkers
wliile a
ipon the
nino' for

e omen
lis o'low,
ved the
L'la Kum

slope of
'I's crept
tallied a

III': smoxa, axd of a good coruAdEr

[\iV

triuiii[)h for us ; others, aii'jiin, workinu round the hase
of Xzera Kum, etiected a diversion in our fa\-our. Saat
Tato, our hunter, carried away a cosv from her owners,
and we thus obtained a taste of heei after eleven months'
ahstineiice. As nioht fell, natives and strangers soiioht
their res])ective (piarters, l)otli anticipating' a husy day
on the morrow.

Before turninu' in for the niiiht, 1 resumed mv readinii"
of the Bihle a.-, usual. 1 had already read the hook
rnrough from heginniiig to end once, and was now
at Deuteronomy for the sec<Mid reading, and I came
unto the verse wherein Moses exhorts ,Ioshua in those
fine lines, " Be strong and of a good courage ; fear not,
nor he afraid of them : for the Lord thy (lod. He it is
that (hjth go with thee ; He will not fail thee, nor
forsake thee."

1 continued my readino, and at the end of the chapter
closed the hook, and from Moses my mind travelled at
once to Mazamhoni. Was it great fatigue, inci])ieiit
ague, or an admonitory symptcmi of ailment, or a shade
of spiteful feeling against our cowardly four, and a
vague sense of distrust that at some critical time my
loons would fly ? We certainly were in the presence of
people very (liffereut from i}.>e forest natives. In the
open our men had not been tested as tliev were to-da}%
and what my otiieers and self had seen of them was not
encouraging. At any rate, my nniid was occupied
with a keener sense of the (hiiiger incurred hv us in
adventuring with such a small force of cowardly porters
to confront the tril)e8 of the grass land than I rememher
it on any previous occasion. It seemed to me now that
[ had a more thorough grasj >f what might he ex})ected.
Whether it followed a larger visual view of land and
po[)ulation, or that I was imi)ressed hy the volume of
human voices, wliose uproar yet seemed to sound in my
ears, j know not. But a voice ap[)eared to say, " ]3e
strong and of a good courage ; fea?' not, nor l)e afraid
of them."' 1 could almost have sworn I heard the voice.
[ heoan to argue with it. Whv do vou adjure me to
ahandon the Mission I I cannot run if I W(juld. To

IftHT.
Dec. 8.

I'lulus-
Miina.

' r '

I ■

llllllii

ilil

^{>r

!.^

»• ^

1HH7.
Dec. 8.

Undus-
Bunin.

812

IK DARKEST AFRICA.

retivut would he far more fatal than advance ; therefore
your encouragement is unnecessary. It re[)lied, never-
theless, " Be sti-onii" and of a o()()d coui'au'e. Advaix-e,
and he confident, for 1 will give this people and this
land unto thee. J will not fail thee nor forsake thee ;
fear not, nor he dismayed."

Still — all this in strict confidence — hefore 1 slept
1 may add that though I certainly never felt fitter for
a fight, it struck me, that hoth si<les were remark-
ahly foolish, and ahout to engage in what 1 eonceived to
1)6 an unnecessary contest. We did not know even the
name of the land or of the peo})le, and they were ecpially
ignorant of our name and of our [)ur})ose and motives.

I sketche<l out my plans for the morrow, adjured the
sentries to keep strict watch, and in sleep hecame !^oon
ohlivious of this Mazamhoni — lord of the mountains
and plains.

Decend)er Dth was a halt. In the morning we c(mi-
pleted our thorn-hush fence, distrihuted cartridges, and
examined rifles. By 9 o'clock the chill of early day
retired hefore the warmth of a hot sun, and shortly after
the natives mustered in imposing numhers. War-horns,
with the weird notes heard in Usooa and Uuanda in
1875, sounded the gathering, and over twenty drums
hoomed from each mountain top. There were shouts
and cries flying in currents from mountain to valley,
and hack again, for we were quite surrounded. Ahout

II A.M. some few natives descended close enough for
one Fetteh, a man of Unyoro, to distinguish what was
said, and he exchanged a hot ahuse with them, until
there was (|uite a wordy war. Hearing that one of our
people understood the language, I directed the wrathful
tongues in the interests of peace, and a more amicahle
language resulted.

" We on our side," was said, " oidy fight in defence.
You assail us while quietly passing through the land.
Would it not he better to talk to each other, and try to
understand one another first, and then, if we cannot
agree, fight."

" True, those are wise words," a man replied. " Tell

' ll

FitiEXhLY /.\"n:/,'C(H-i!s/- WITH x.\T/i/:s.

'AW,

u^ who vou are. Where you are I'rum, and w lu ii' vou
are going."

" We are of Zaiiziliar. from tlie sea, and our diief is a
wiiite man. We are l)ound foi' tlie Nvanza of rnvoi'o.'"

" If you have a \vhit(> man with you. h't us see him,
and we shall helieve you."

liieutenaait Stairs promptly stepped out of the zeriha
and was introduced i»y Fetteh.

" Now you tell us who you are," said Fetteh. '' What
land is this? Who is your chiefs And how fai- is the
iNvanza :

'' Tliis land is Undussuma, the chief is Mazand»oni.
We are Wazamlioni. 'I'he Kuweru (Nyanza) is reached
in two (hiys. It will take you five (hiy,s. It lies east.
There is only one I'oid, and you cannot miss it."

This heu'an the exdianue of friendh* intercourse.
Strangerhood was broken. We then learned that there
were two chiefs in Undussuma, one of v\h(mi would not
he averse to [)eace, and exchange of friendly gifts, if it
were aoreeahle t(j us. We ohidlv assented, and several
hours were passed without a hostile cry heing heard, or
a shot fired, except at the river, the natives on whose
shores were ohstinate, and declined listening to anything
hut war proposals.

In the aftei'noon a mes.sage came frcmi Mazand)oni
saying he would like to see the pattoi-n and (juality of
our monies. AVe sent two yards of scarlet uniform cloth,
and a dozen brass rods, an<l a promise was given that
early next morning the chief himself would appear and
i»o throuii'h the ceremonv of brotherhood with me.

The next day we were refreshed after an undisturbed
' ight.and fondly indulged in antici[)ations that in a few
houi's, [)erliaps, our camp would l)e tilled with friendly
natives, W'e had been re<juested not to (le})art until a
return gift shouhl arrive from Mazamboni. We acc(»rd-
inii'lv had resolved on another dav's halt. The morninj»
w^as still raw and cohl, for we were 4,2.'55 feet above the
sea. A mist covei'ed the tall mountain tops, and a
slight drizzle had set in, which excused our friends from
a too early appearance ; but at the third hour the mist

1.><H7.
|)i'C. !'.

siiiiia.

ft'

iilil

.Ml

1887.

I>.'C. 10

sunia.

.".U

7A' DA II REST AFItlCA.

clcanMl away, and the oiitlim' of the t'litiiv raii^c \V!ih
clear auaiiist a [)al(' liltu' sky. Licutonaiit Stairs, .Mr.
.I('[»lis(»ii, and myself, were out at the extreme west end
of the .s|)ur enjoyin,u' tlie splendid \ie\v. a<lmirin_u' the
seeneiy, and wonderinii when such a heautiful land
would Itecome the homesteads of civilizcil settlers.
Stairs thought that it vesemhlecl New Zealand, and said
that he would not mind |)ossessin<i' a ranche here. He
actually went so far as to locate it, and pointed out the
most desirahle spot. " On that little hill I would huild
mv house "^ — "Shehano" he called it. i wonder if that
is a New Zealand term for a \illa — " There I would herd
my cattle ; my sheep could hrowse on the mountain
slo[)e hehind. and "

But meantime the natives had appeared (m the orests
of the mountain in lengthy columns, converuin^' towards
a common centre — a butt end of a truncated hill — a
thousand yards in an air line from where we stood, and
a voice like that of a mol) orator, clear and harmonious,
])roke (»n our ear. It proceeded from a man who, with
a few companions, had descended to ahout .'500 feet
above the valley. He was ten minutes spe'iking, and
Fetteh had been brought to listen and translate.
Fetteli said that he commanded peace in the name of
the kino' ; but stran<4e to say, no sooner had the man
concluded his speech than loud, responsive yells rose
from the valley in a hideous and savaue clamour, and
then from every mountain top, and from the slopes
there was a re-echo of the savage outburst.

We surmised that sueh forceful veiling eould not
signal a 2)eace, but rather war ; and in order to make
sure, sent Fetteh down into the valley l)elow the speaker
to ask him. The replies from the natives left us no
room to doubt. The two sounds — Kanwana, " peace," and
Kurwana, " war," v*-ere so similar that tliev had occasioned
Fetteh's error.

" We do not want your friendship," they cried. " We
are comini-' (h>wii to you shortly to drive vou out of
your camp with our herdsmen's staffs." And a
treacherous fellow, \vho had crawled under cover of low

IF'/; Disi'Ensi-: Till': sativics.

;ii.

l.u.^1

I. (ainc near causiiiu us a scvcrr loss our lutt'ipiclcr i»

csiM'ciallv liaNiUL:: an t'xci'ci

|M(

■kc.l

liiiul
il J

y narrow t'scaju

l'\>rt

ii|) till' arrows and hrouglit tuoni to us, a
I h

ell
nd

(It'livcrcil nis news

Tlicre was tluMi no alternative lait to in

fhVt

an cxeni-

plarv lesson upon them; and we incparcd to carrv d
out without losing' a moment ol" time, and with the
utmost vigour, unless chiM-ki'd hy proH'crs of amity.

The (•om])anies were mustere«l. and Ht'ty I'iHes were led
out l»y [jieutenant Stairs towards those clistinate and
on the other side ot" the Ituri hi'aneh. A

fell

ows

fierce

party of thirty rities were sent under Mr. Jephson to
skirmish u[) the slopes to the left ; and twenty })i('ked men
were sent with Tledi to make u demonstration to the riiiht.
Rashid was ordered with ten men to the top of Nzera-
Kuni to ,u'iiard auainst surprise from that (piarter,
Jephson and Idedi would l)e marchinii' to their p(»sitions
unohserved ;)y the mountaineers, hecause the crowns of
the forehills would ol»sti'uct the view, and would ap-
))roach to them within 200 yards without l>ein<»' seen,
while Lieutenant Stairs' company, liein^' further out in
the valley, would altsorh their attention.

in a few minutes Stairs' ecmipany was hotly enoaued.

le natives received our men with cool determination
for a few minutes, and shot their arrows in literal showers ;
hut the Lieutenant, perceivin<2; that their coolness rose
from the knowledge that there was a considerahle stream
interveiiino' between them and his company, cheered his

men

to charoe across the river. His men oheved hi

and as they ascended the o[)posite hank o[)ened a
witherinu; fire whicli in a few seconds l)roke up the nest
of refractory and turl)ulent fellows who had cried out so
loudlv for wai'. The villaiie was taken with a rush :ind
the haiiana ])lantations scourech The natives hroke out

into the o[)en

a run, and tied far northwartl.

Lieutenant Stairs then collectetl his men. set tire to the
villao-e, and proceeded to the assault of other settlemeids,
rattlino- volleys from the company announcing the
resistance they met.

Meanwhile, fledi's party of elioseii men iiad discovered

Dec. lo,

riiiiii>-

suina.

! !

IN DA BREST AFRICA.

U\ tfj

■

1 III

1887.
Dec. 10

Undus-

a path leadiiio- up the niouiitaiii ah)ni»' a spur, and after
ascending 500 feet, led his men up into view on the
right flank of the niol) ohservino- and eheerino' their
eountrymen in the valley. The Winchesters v.ere worked
most handsomely. At the same time IVlr. Jephson's
party came out of the left ravine, and together they had
such a disastrous effect (m the nerves of the natives that
they fled furiously up the slopes, Uledi and Ins men
chasing tlicvi.

J\Ir. Jephson, after seeing them in full flight,
faced eastward, and pushed on for tw<) miles, clearing
every inhabitant out. By 1 p.m. all our men were
in camp, with only one man slightly wounded. Every
man had ])ehaved wonderfully well ; even the four
cowards, who had been marked men, had distinguished
themselves.

At 2 P.M., the natives in the valley having returned,
each party was despatched (jiice again. Stairs led his
men across the Ituri branch, and followed the running
fugitives far northward, then veered sharply round to
jvr^n Je})lison, who had continued his way eastward.
Uledi's scouts were sent up to the very summit of
the mountain ranue ; but on observino' the immense
numl)er of homesteads that dotted it, he prudently
halted.

Until the afternoon the contest continued ; the natives
wn'e constantly on tlie run, charging or retreating. By
evening not one was in sight, and the silence around
our camp was significant of the day's dcings. The
inliabitants were on the mountains or far removed east-
ward and northward. In the vallev around us there
was not a hut left standing to be a cover during the
night. The lesson, we felt, was not coinj)lete<l. We
sliouhl have to return by that route. In the natural
course of things, if we met many tribes of tlie (|uality of
this, we should lose many men, and if we left them in
the least doubt of our ability to protect ourselves, we
should have to re[)eat our day's work. It was, therefore,
far more merciful to finish tlie affair thoroughly before
leaving a tribe in un whipped insolence in our icai'.

PEACE APdlAXGED.

8i:

Tlie natives must have entertained an idea tliat \vc
conld not tight outside our ])usli fence, wliieh accounts
for their tall talk of driving us out witli sticks, and that
they were safe on the mountains. We were compelled
to root out the idea that they could harm us in any
way.

A cow neglected l)y her owner was burnt in one of
the villages close hy, and furnished us with a second
limited ration of roast l)eef.

On the 11th it rained again durinij; the earlvmornino-
which kept us indoors until 10 a.m. Some natives
having then come out to demonstrate their hostility on
the mountains, Stairs, Jephson and Uledi
led their men up the mountain slopes in
tln-ee separate small columns to the attack,
and made a successful tour among their
stronghoM. A small flock of goats was
cjiptured, and distributed to the men, and
our experiences of this day satisfied the
natives that they luid nothing to gain by
figiiting.

At one time it appeared as though the
day would end with reconciliation, for a
native stood on a his»h hill above our
position after all had reached camp, and
announced that he had been sent hy
Abizamboni to say that he received our
gifts, but that he had been prevented from
visiting us according to promiise by the
clamour of his vounu' men, who insist('<l on fiuiiting.
Hut now, as many of them hail been kiliecK he was
ready to pay triliute, and be a true friend in future.

We replied that we were agreeabk' to peace and friend-
shi[) witli them, but as they had mocked us, kept our
peace presents, and then scornfully called us women,
they must purchase peace with cattle or goats, and if
they held u}) grass in their hands they could npj)roach
without feai'.

It should be mentione(l that when the warrioi's de-
scen«led the mountaiu slopes for the tight, every little

SHI 1:1,1 1 111' THE
KIICK (IK THK
I'l.AINS.

1H87.
Di'iv 10.

Undus-
.sunia.

li'i

( •

(

ill

'' I

t m" f**

. ^^

41'

1H87.
Dec, 11.

Undus-
suma.

318

IX DARKEST AFlilVA.

S(|uad of men was accompanied l»y a laroe liound, of
somewliat slender 1)uild, l)ut couraoeous, and prompt to
attack.

The arms of the Wazam'icmi consisted of long l)ows
five and a lialf feet long, and arrows twenty-eight
inches long, Itesides a long sharp spear. Tlieir shields
were long and narrow generally, bnt there were many of
the true Tganda type. The arrows were cruelly l)arl)ed,
and the spear was similar to that of Karagwe, Uhha,
Uruiidi, and Ihanu'iro.

"o^^;1

VIKW OK THi; «(UTH i:\T> oK AI.BKliT KYANZA. (.»<(-»' ^/a^c S06.)

' I

"'Fi

1
i

1
1

CHAPTER XII.

ARRIVAL AT LAKH ALBERT, AND Ul'R RKTl'RN To IDWIRL

"We arc furthei" annoyed hy tlie natives— Tluii' villapcs fired — (lavira's
villauc — We keep the natives at bay — IMatran of I'liyoro in view
Ni^-lit attack liy tl..' natives— The villaoc of Katonza's — I'ark'v witli
the natives — No news of tl'e Paslia -Our sn|)])iy of cartvidu-es-W'c
eonsidei' onr ])osition — Lientenant Stairs eonverscs witii the |hm)|i1('
of Kasenva Island — The only sensible conrse left us — Auain attaeUed

nv natives —Sceiierv on the lake's shore — We cliinli a iiionntaii

rich discovery of ^^rain — The rieli valli'v of Undussnnia — Our return
journey to Ihwiri— The construction of Fort 13odo.

On the 12th Decenilter wo left camj) at dawn witliont isst
disturbance, or heariiio' a siiiolc xoice. aii<l lip to 1) a.m.
it did not a])pear as if anvhody was astir throuuiiout
the valley. Our road led E. Ity S. and di[)])e(l down int

lavnies, and narrow valievs. <

lown which its ti'i!)Utari

from the mountain ranoe and its many o()i'u('s Howe(l
undei* depths of junoie. hush, and I'eed-cane. Mllaucs
were seen nestlin^' amid ahundance, and we left them
unmolested in the hope that the wild people miuht i-ead

that

wlien

left

alone we were an cxti'emeK' inoth'nsi\(

hand of men. But at nine o'clock, the chill of the morninu'
ha\ino' disa[)[)eared. we heard the first war-cries. and t race(l
them toa laroc oroup of vilhiLi'es that crowne(l a (hdadied
line of hills occupying' the foreuround of the I iidussuma
ranoe. Perceivino' that we continued our mai'ch withoiit
ippearinv to notice them, they ad.vanced l>oldl\- and

ON' ere

11 oui' riiiiit flank and rear

IW 1 1 A.M. tliere were two separate hands of native

wiio

folh

owe(| us verv nersis

^tent^

le liau come from

the eastwai'd. the other was forme(l out of I he po|>uk'ilion
of the villaoes in the \alle\- that we had left undamaued
and intact.

1 ',■,•. i-j,

(javir.'i

' , i' '

\ ." t

i-»

i(il M

'-. (

rl^l

.'II,

'"-r

m ! I

:.j:,l.

i«

1 1

1 ■,

i ■

-S 1

Dec. 12
G.i

;}20

7.V DARKEST AFEICA.

1887.^ By noon tliese bands had increased into numerous and
frantic mo]>s, and some of them cried out, "We will

ove to vou l)efore nio-ht that we are men, and eveiv

one of you shall perish to-<hiy."

At this hour, refreshed hy our halt, we resumed the

march

u'ouiiU a liTassv wilderness

Ich

lere were no

villajxes in view on either liaiKJ, lait the niohs followed

us, now aiK

1th

len "lakinu' demonstrations, and annovnit''

us with their harsh cries and menaces. An expert shot
left the line of march, and wounded two of them at a
ranoe of 400 yards. This silenced them for awhile, as
thouo'ii they were a])sorl)ed in woiiderin*;' what missile
could inflict injuries at such a distance. But soon their
numbers received fresh accessions, and their au(hicity
became more markeih The rear-^uard band presently
were heard firiiio-, and possibly with effect ; at any rate
it was clear they had received a check.

Finallv, at 8.;i0, we came in view of the Bavira villaues

-the chief of whom is called (Javira — situated

on an

open plain and occu})yin_u' both banks of a deep and
precipitous ravine hollowed out of the clay by a con-
siderable tributary of the East [turi. We in the front
halted on the eastern Itaiik. as the natives — too tardy
to effect anything — came rusliinu' down to prevent the
crossing'. Loads were at once dropped, skirmishers were
despatched from the advance to recross the river, and to
assist the rear guanb and a smart scene of battle-])lay

occu

rrecb nt the end of which the natives retreated

the full run. T(^ punish them for four hours' persecution
of us we turned al)out and set fire to every hut on either
bank, then reforming we hastened up a stec)) hilly
plateau, that rose 200 feet above the plain, to meet the
natives who had gathered to oppose us. Long, however,
l)efore we couhl reach the summit thev abandoned their

)osition aiK

1 left

us to occupy a village in ])eace.

being now a late hour we camped, and <»u)' first duty was
to rendei' our (juarters safe against a night attack.

Tt should be observed that up to the moment of firing

le villau'cs.

the fi

urv of the natives seenu

d to 1

)e m-

creasiuii', but the instant the flames were seen devouring

nil

J' til ■

rfAVfliA'S VILLAGE.

-".2 1

their homes the fury ceased, hy which we learned that
fire had a remarka1»le sethitive iiiHiieiice on their nerves.

The viUage of (Javira's, wherein we slept that niyht,
was 4,057 feet above the sea. It had been a tine day
for travel, and a S.E. hreeze was most cooling. Without
it we sliould have suffered fi'om the great heat. xVs the
sun set it became very cold ; by midnight the tem[)ci'a-
ture was 00°. We had travelled nine miles, and mostly
all complained of fatigui' from the marching and constant
excitement.

On the I'Uh we set off easterly a little after dawn, in
order that we might cover some distance before the
aborigines ventured out into the cold r.ivv air of the
morning. The short pasture grass was beaded with
dew, and wet as with rain. The rear guard, after dis-
arranging our nif'iht' defences that the natives mioht not
understand the manner of them, soon overtook us, and
we left the district in compact order i-eady for fresh
adventures. Qntil the third hour of the moi'ning we
were permitted to travel amid scenes of peaceful stillness.
We enjoyed the prospects, had time to note the features
of the great plain north of East Ituri, and to admire the
multitude of hilly cones that bounded the northern
horizon, to observe liovr the lines of conical hills massed
themselves into a solid and unbroken front to the east and
west ; how to the south of us the surface of the land was a
series of great waves every hollow of which had its own
particular stream ; and how% about five miles off. the
mountain range continued from Undussumr, East to the
Balegga country, whose summits we knew so well, formed
itself into btndike curves wherein numerous settlements
found water and sweet grass for theii- cattle and moisture
for their millet fields, and finally])rolonged itself, rounding
northward until its exti'emity stood east of us. Hence
we observed that the direction we travelled would take
us before manv hours between the northei-n and southern
ranges, to the top of a saddle that a[)peare(l to (-onnect
them. A grou}) of villages situated on the skyline of
this saddle was our objective point at present, until we
could take further bearings thence.

Vol t. X

1H87.
Doc. 12.

(iavira.

\il

MP rr

I '

^i^ 1i*^ !'i

liil

■jHmii

822 IN DABKEST AFRICA.

1887. But at 9 A.M. tlie natives l)egaii to stir and look

Dec. i.i. j|j.f)un(l. Every feature of the wide landscape heing
"'"' then free from mist and fog. (Jur long serpent-like line
of men was soon detected and hailed with war-cries,
uttered with splendid force of lungs, that drew hundreds
of hostile eyes hurning with ferocity and hate upon us.
Village after village was passed by us untouched, ])ut
this, as we experienced the day befcn'e, they did not place
to our credit, hut rather debited us with pusillanimity,
all reports of their neighbours notwithstanding. We felt
it in our veins that we were l)eing charoed with weakness.
A (;rowd of fifty natives stood aside, 800 yards from our
path, observant of our conduct. They saw us defile
throuo-h their settlements with kindlv regard for their
property, and eyes fixed straight before us, intent on our
own l)usiness of travel onl}\ Far from accepting ti is as
.n proof that there was s(mie virtue in us, they ci )sed
behind the column, loudly and imperiously summoned
their countrymen to gather together and surround us — a
call their countrymen appeared only too willing to ij])ey.
As soon as they deemed their num1)ers strong enough to
take the offensive, they charged on the rear guard, which
act was instantly responded to by good practice with
rifies.

E\'ery half-hour there was a stieam at the l)ottom of
its own valley, and a l)readth of cane-brake on either
•side of the brook, which required great caution to keep
the impulsive natives at bay.

That group of villages on the skyline already men-
tioned, connectino; the now converijino; lines of hills
to north and south of us, became more and more dis-
tinct as we steadily pressed on eastward, and I began
to feel a presentiment that before another hour was
ptissed, we should see the Albert Nyanza. But as
though there was scmie great treasure in our front, or as
if Eniin Pasha and his garrison found himself in the
position of (jiordim during his hist hours at Khartoum,
and these were the ])eleaguering hosts, the natives waxed
l)older and more determined, increased in numbers
faster, the war-cries were incessantly A'ociferatv-^d from

i ^- >fcii I M__

WE KEEP THE NATIVES AT BAY.

.S28

every eminence, <j,T(>up.s of men })e('cime m<)l)s, and
finally we became conscious that a supreme efibrt was
al)()Ut to be made l»y them. AVe cast our eyes about
and saw each elevation black with masses of men, while
the ])road and rolling plain showed lines of figures, like
armies of ants travelling t(nvards us.

At 11 A.M. we were near the crest of the last ridge
intervening between us and the saddle which we were
aiming for, when we caught a view of a small army
advancing along a road, which, if continued, would
soon cross our track on the other side of the stream
that issued from this ridge. The attacking point I
felt sure would be a knoll alwve the source of the
stream. The advance guard was about a hundred
yards from it, and these were ordered when abreast
of the knoll to wheel sharply to the right, and stack
goods on its summit, and the word was passed to
close files.

As we arrived at the summit of the knoll, tlie head of
the native army, streaming thickly, was at the f(..>t of
it on the other side, and without an instant's hesitation
both sides began the ccmtest simultaneouslv, but the
rapid fire of the Winchesters w^as altogether Urn much
for them, for, great as was the power of the united voices,
the noise of the Winchesters deafened and confused
them, while the fierce hissing of the storm of bullets
paralysed the bravest. The advance guard rushed down
the slopes towards them, and in a few seconds the
natives turned their backs and bounded awav with the
speed of anteh)pes. Our men pursued them for about a
mile, but returned at the recall, a summons thev obeved
with the precision of soldiers at a review, which })leased
me more even than the gallantry they had displa}ed.
The greatest danger in reality with half-disciplined men
is the inclination to follow the chase, without regard to
the design the enemy may have in view by sudden
Higlit. It frecjuently happens that the retreat is efi'ecte<l
for a ruse, and is often practised in Li^ganda. On this
occasion forty men were chasing 500, while 1,500 natives
at least were certainly surveying the field on a hill to

1H87.
Dec. 13.

Laku i^iiiu.

!hi

\\'

111

i'^' I

I '

; i..

'ii| 'i'^

iiiii

824

AV DARKEHT AFRICA.

Dec. IM.
Lake I'lain,

!' !hl

tlie ri<;"lit of us, and a similar number was posted to the
left of us.

Aoaiii we re-formed our ranks, and marched forward
in close order as before, but at 12. .'30 halted for refresh-
ments, witli a pretty wide cinde around us now, clear of
noisy and yelling natives. ( )ur noon halt permitted
them to collect their faculties, but though they were
undoubtedly sobered by the events of the morning they
still threatened us with imp )sing nund)ers of the Balegga,
Bavira, and Wabiassi tribes.

After an hour's rest tiie line of march was resumed.
AVe found an exceedingly well-trodden path, and that it
was appreciated was evident from the rapid and elastic
tread of the column. Within fifteen minutes we gained
the brow of the saddle, or rather plateau, as it turned out
to be, and, about twenty-five miles away, we saw a dark
blue and uniform line of talde-land, lifted up into the
clouds and appearing portentously h)fty. The men
vented a murmur of discontented surprise at the sight
of it. 1 knew it was Unyoro, that l)etween us and that
great and l)lue tal>le-land was an immense and deep gulf,
ijnd that at the bottom of this gulf was the Albert. For
there seemed to be nothing else before us, neither hill,
ridge, or elevati(jn. but that distant immense dark blue
mass ; the eastern slopes of the northern and southern
ranges dipped down steeply as it were into a gulf or
profoundly deep valley. Our people, on viewing the
plateau of Unyoro in the distance, cried out in a vexed
manner " Alashallah ! but this Nyanza keeps going-
further and further away from us ; " but I cheered them
up with, " Keep your eyes open, boys ! You may see the
Nyanza any minute now," which remark, like many
others tending to encourage them, was received with
HTunts of unl)elief.

But every step we now took proved thai "^ were
approaching an umisually deep valley, or the X^yanza,
for higher and higher rose the Unyoro plateau into view,
lower and lower descended the slopes on either hand of
our road, until at last all eyes rested on a grey cloud, or
vdiat is it, mist ? Nay, it is the Nyanza sleeping in the

\ to tlie

forward
refresh-
clear of
rmitted
ly were
no- they
ialeo'ffii,

esumed.

I that it

I ehistie

; gained

•lied out

r a dark

into the

lie men

he siolit

md that

ep gulf,

rt. For

her hill,

rk l»lue

)uthern

gulf or

ang the

a vexed

going

2d them

.see the

many

3d with

'^. were
^yanza,
to View,
hand of
loud, or
L»' in the

C<9

!ii

"3 i!'H

fills •«!

'.Mill

iliNi

l^iflii

IM;

FIRST VIEW OF TIIE ALIihirr .V)'J.V/J. :',27

haze, for, looking' to the uortli-easlwanl it was the
colour of the ocean. The men ^azcd upon tlie hike fnlly
two minutes before thev realised that what they looked
u[)on was water, and then they relieved their feelings
with eheers and enthusiastic shouts.

We continued our pace a few minutes longei', until we
stood on the verge of the descent from the plateau, and
near a small village [)erche(l on this exposed situation we
made a short halt to take hearings, inspect aneroids, and
reflect a little u})on our next ste[).

Though the people were shouting and dancing, and
thronging around me with con<'ratulations for havin*"'
''hit the exact spot so well," a chill came over me, as
I thought of the very slight chance there was, in such u
country as this, of finding a canoe fit to navigate the
rough waters of the Albert. With my glass I scruti-
nized anxiously the distant shore of the iiake, hut 1
could not see any canoe, neither could I see a single tree
in all the long stretch of slope and extended ])lain of a
size suitable for a canoe, and the thought that, after all,
our forced march and continual iightinu' and sacrifice of
life would be in vain, struck me for the first time, even
while upon every man's lips was the pious ejaculation,
■• Thank (Jod."

And yet it was just possible we might be able to buy
a canoe with brass rods and some red cloth. It would
be too hard if our long travels hither were to be (juite in
vain.

The scene I looked upon was very ditterent to what 1
had anticipated. I had circumnavigated the A'ictoria
Nyanza and the Tanganika, and 1 had viewed the Muta
Xzige' from a plateau somewhat similar to this, and
canoes were procurable (m either Lake ; and (m the ^ ictoria
and Tanixanika it \vould not be difficult, after a little
search, to find a tree large enough for cutting out a
canoe. But 1 saw here about twenty miles of most
barren slopes, rugged with great rocks, and furrowed
with steep ravines and waten-ourses, whose l)anks showed
a thin fringe of miserable bush, and between them were
steeply descending sharp and long spurs, either c(jvered

IKH".

Doc. i;i.

Allicrk
Nyiinza.

Il ' t

I 1 11

iWW

. 1

1 1

: 11

»^-..:w

i, !

II] nil

mm m

III

1887.
Dee. IH.

All)nrt
Nv;iU/::i

.^28

7iV DARKEST ArniCA.

witli rocky and clayey deln-is or tall _i>rccii ^rass. Be-
tween tlie hase of this len^ytliy tall of sloj)e and the T^ake
was a ])lain alxiiit fiNc or six miles in Itreadrh. and a])ont
twenty miles lon_u', most pleasant to look ujxtn from the
irreat altitude we were on. it resembled a well-woode<l
pai'k land, Itut the trees s[)read out their hranchcs
too liroadlv to j)()ssess the desiralde stems. They
appeared to me to he more like acacia, and thorn-
trees and scrub, which would be utterly useless for our
})ur))ose.

Our anei'oids indicated an altitude of a. 000 feet, Tlu*
islet marked on Mason's chart as near Kavalli bore E.S. E.,
ma<xnetic, about six miles from our i)osition. Lavinu'
Colonel Mnson's chai't of the Albert Nyanza before us, we
compared it with what was spi-ead so largely and L>randly
over 2,500 feet ]»elow us, and we were forced to bear
witness to the remarkable accuracy of his survey. Here
and there scmie tritlin_i»' islets and two or three small in-
lets of the Lake into that singular sunken plain which
formed the boundary of tlu» Lake as its southerly extremity
were observed as (miissions.

I had often wondered at 8ir Samuel Baker's descrip-
tion of the Al])ert Nyanza's extension towards the south-
west, i^erhaps oftener aftei- (\)lonel Mason's niysteriously
brusque way of circumscril)inu' its '" illimitability," but [
can feel pure sympathy with tlie discoverer now, despite
the terrible " cuttin<j;' oft"' to whicli it has ])een subjected.
For the effect up(m all of us could not have been greater
if the Albert stretched to Khai'toum. Whether limited
or unlimited, the first view of water and mountain is
noble, and even inspiring'. Even at its extremity the
Lake has a spacious breadth, but as we follow the lines
of its mountain banks the breadth widens orandlv, the
silver colour of its shaUow head soon chaniies into the
deep azui'e of ocean, the c(mtinuin_o' expanding breadth,
immense girdle of mountains and pale sky, lose their
outlines, and l)ec(mie fused into an indefinite ])lueness at
the sea-horizon north-eastward, through which we may
vainly seek a limit.

Our point of observation was in N. Lat. 1°. 23'.00".

'li! Ih

'!i!i :

NATIVE HOSTILITY NEMi THE KYANZA.

;;-j'.>

Tlic extreme end of the eastei'ii end of the lake horc S, K.
luaunetic, and the extreme western end hore S, K. and
S. h]. l>y S. I^etween the two extremities there were ti\('
inlets, one of which reached two miles further south than
any of those observed points.

The tahlo-land of I'nyoro maintained an almost uniform
level as far as we could see, its teiininahle point Iteinu'
cut off from view hy a lar^e shoulder of mountain, thai
tlirust itself forward fnun the western ran,o,e. South-
ward of the hike and hetween these opposinn' heights—
that of the table-land of Tnyoro on the east, and that of
the table-land on the west extended a low plain which
formerly, l)Ut not recently, must have been inundated
by the waters of the lake, but now was (by firm oround,
clothed with sere o;rass, gently rising as it receded south,
and finally producing scrubby wood, acacia and thorn,
like the terraee directly below us.

After a halt of about twenty mimites, we commenced
the descent down the slopes of the range. Befoi'e the
rearguaid under Lieutenant Stairs had left the s[)ot, the
natives had gathered in numbers e(|ual to our own. an<l
before the advance had deseended 500 feet, they li'i'l
Iteo'un to annov the rearouard in a manner that soon
provoked a steady tiring. We ^>elow could see them
spread out like skirmishers on ])oth flanks, and hanging
to the rear in a long line up the terribly steep and
galling path.

While they shot their arrows, and crept nearer to
their intended victims, they cried, "" Ka-hi-la hclt Iclo T^
— " Where will vou sleei) to-nioht ? Don't vou know
you are surrounded ? We have you now where we
wanted you."

Our men were not a whit slow in replying, " Wherever
we sleep, you will not dare come neai' ; and if you have
got us where you wanted us to ])e, why not ccmie on at
?"

Though the firing was 1)risk, there was but little hurt
done ; the ground was adverse to steadiness, and on
our sivie only one was wounded with an arrow, but the
combat kept both sides lively and active. Had we been

once

1««7.
Dec. VX

AlluTt
Nviinzii.

\^\\\%

if iff I

1887.
Dec. 1.'?.

Albert

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

un])ui'(lened and fresli, very few of these pestilent fellow.s
would have lived to climl) that mountain again.

The descent was continued for three hours, halting
every fifteen minutes to repel the natives, who, to the
number of forty, ov thereabouts, followed us down to
the plain.

JIalf a mile from the base of the mountain we crossed
a slightly saline stream, which had hollowed a deep
channel, banked ])y preci])itous and in some place;; per-
pendicular walls of debris 50 feet high, on either side.
( )n the edge of one of these latter walls we formed a
camp, the half of a circle beirig thus unassailal>le ; the
other half we soon made secure with brushwood and
material from an abandoned village close by. Having
observed that the daring natives had descended into the
])lain, and knowing their object to be a night attack, a
chain of sentries were posted at a distance from the
camp, who were well hiiUlen by the grass. An hour
after dark the attack was made by the band of natives,
who, trying one point after another, were exceedingly
surprised to receive a fusilade from one end of the half
circle to the ^^tlier.

This ended a troublous day, and the rest we now
sought was well earned.

Inspecting the anei'oid on reaching the camping-
phice, we discovered that we had made a descent of
2,250 feet since we had left our post of observation on
the verge of the plateau above.

On the 14th we left the base of the plateau, and
marched across the plain that gently sloped for 5 miles
to the lake. As we travelled on, we examined closely
if among the thin forest of acacia any tree would likely
be available for a canoe ; ])ut the plain was destitute of
all but acacia, thorn-bush, tamarind, and scrub — a proof
that the soil, though sulhciently rich for the hardier
trees, had enough acrid properties- niti-e, alkali, or
salts — to prevent the growth of tropical vegetation.
We, however, trusted that we should be enjdded to
induce the natives to part with a canoe, or. as was more
likely. [)robably Emin I'asha had visited the south end

i) :

we iK^w

AX rXWOMAXLY VIRAGO.

83 i

of the lake, accordinu- to my i'e(|iiest, aii(l. liad made
arransiemeiits witli the natives for our reee})tioii. If
]iot, why ultimately perhaps we should have legitimate
excuse for taking a temporary loan of a canoe.

Al>out a mile and a half from the lake we heard scmie
natives cutting fuel in a scruhhy wood, not far from the
road. We halted, and maintained silence while the
interpreter attempted to ohtain a reply to his friendly
hail. For ten minutes we remained perfectly still,
waiting until the person, who proved to ])e a woman,
deigned to answer. Then, for the first time in Africa,
I heard as gross and obscene altuse as tlie traditional
tish woman of Billingsgate is supposed to be capable of
uttering. AVe were obliged to desist from the task of
conciliating such an unwomanly virago.

We sent the interpreter ahead with a few meii to the
village at the lake side, which l>elonged to a chief called
Katonza, and sometimes Kaiya Nkondo. with insuuc-
tions to employ the utmost art possible to gain the
confidence of the inhabitants, and bv no means to admit
rebuff ])y words or threats, hostile action only to be
accepted as an excuse for withdrawal. We. in the
meantime, were to follow slowly, and then halt until
summoned, close to the settlement.

The villagers were discovered totally unconscious of
our ap[)roach and neighbourhood. Their first impulse,
on seeing our men, was to tly ; but, observing that they
were not pursued, they took position on an anthill at
an arrow-flights distance, more out of curiosity than
goodwill. Perceiving that our men were obliging,
[lolite, and altogether harndess, they sanctioned the
a[)proach of the caravan, and on seeing a white man
they were induced to advance neai', while assurances of
friendliness were being assiduouslv reiterated. About
forty natives mustered courage to draw near for easv
parley, and then hai-angues and counter-harangues, from
(»ne side to the other, one paity vowing by their lives,
by the love of theii' thi'oats. by the blue sky above, that
no harm was intende<l or evil meditated that only
friendship and goodwill were sought, for whii'h due gifts

1887.
Dec. 14.

Albert
Nvanza.

j. '

IIIM

« !

I t

) 'i

till!

ill'

I ;

1887.
Dec. U.

Albert
Nyanza.

832

7^" DARKEST AFRICA.

would be given, the other averring that though their
hesitation might be misjudged, and possil)ly attri])uted
to fear, still they had met — often met — a people called
the Wara-Sura, armed with guns like ours, who simply
killed people. Perhaps, after all, we were Wara-Sura,
or their friends, for we had guns also, in which case
they were quite ready to light the instant they were
assured we were A\^ara-Sura ov their allies.

" Wara-Sura I Wara-Sura 1 What men are these ?
We never heard of the name l:tefore. Whence are
they ?" &c., &c., and so on unceasingly for three mortal
hours in the hot sun. Our cajolings and our winsomest
smiles ])egan to appear of eifect, but they suddenly
assumed moodiness, and expressed their suspi('ion in the
harsh, rasping language of Unyoro, whi(5h grated horribly
on the hearing. In the end our effort was a ccmiplete
failure. We had, unknown to ourselves, incurred their
suspi(;ion ])y speaking too kindly of Unyoro and of
Kabba Rega, who, we found later, was their mortal
enemy. They would not accept our friendship, nor
make bloo(l-l)r()tlierliood, nor accept even a gift. They
would give us water to drink, and they would show the
path along the lake.

" You seek a white man, y(ju say. We hear there is
one at Kabba Rega's (Casati). Many, many years ago a
wliite man came from the north in a smoke-boat (Mason
Bey), but he went away, but that was when we were
chihlren. There has been no strange boat on our waters
since. We hear of strange peo})le being at Buswa
(Mswa), but that is a long way from here. There north-
ward along the lake lies your way. All the wicked
people come from tliere. We never heard any good
of men who came in from the Ituri either. The Wara
Sura scmietimes come f"om there."

They condescendcMl to sliow us the path leading along
the shore of the lake, and tlien stood aside on tlie plain,
bi(hling us, in not unfriendly tones, to take heed of our-
selves, but not a single article for their service would
they acce[)t. Wondering at their extraordinary manner,
and without a single legitima'i' excuse to (piarrei with

THE MYSTERY ABOUT THE PASHA.

iioo

them, we proceeded on our way meditatively, with most
unhappy feelings.

Pondering upon the strange (K ad stop to that hopeful-
ness which had hitherto animated us, it struck us that a
more heartless outlook never confronted an explorer in
wild Africa than that which was now so abruptly revealed
to us. From the date of leaving f]nglan<l, January 21,
1887, to this date of 14th December, it never dawned on
us that at the very goal we might l)e baiiied so com-
pletely as we were now. There was only one comfort,
however, in all this ; there was henceforward no incerti-
tude. We had hoped to have met news of the Pasha lici'e.
A governor of a })r()vince, with two steamers, life-boats,
jind canoes, and thousands of jDeople we had imagined
would have been known evervwhere on su(.-li a small lake
as the Albert, which recpiired only two days' steaming from
end to end. He could not, or he would not. leave AVadelai,
or he knew nothing yet of our coming.* When compelled
through excess of weakness to leave our steel boat at
Ipoto, we had hoped one of three things : either that the
Pasha, warned bv me of mv cominu', would have i)i'c-
pared the natives for our appearani-e, or that we could
purchase or make a canoe of our own. The Pasha had
never visited the south end f)f the lake ; there was no
canoe to be ()l)tained, nor was there any tree out of
which one could be made.

Since we had entered the grass land we had expended
five cases of cartridues. There remained fortv-scvcn
cases with us, besides those at Ipoto in charge of ('aj)tain
Nelson and Dr. Parke. A\ adelai was distant twenty-
five davs' iournev bv land, thouiih it was onlv four by
lake. If we travelled northward bv land, it was most
likelv we should exijcnd twentv-five cases in fii'htini'' to
reach Wadehii, assuming that the tribes were similar to
those in the south. On reaching Emin Pasha we should
then hav(^ only twenty-two left. If we then left twelve

* In Novombor, 18S7, \\m\\\ Paslia wrote to liis friend Dr. Fclkin: "All
well ; on best torms witli cliiot's nnd ]ic()|)l(' ; will be loaviiiu: shortly for
Kibiro, on cast roast of Lake Albert. Have sent rironnoiterin^ jiarty to
look out for Stanley, which had to return with no news yet. .Stanley
txiMjeted about DceemlK-'r 15th (1887)." We arrived on the 1-lth.

1887.
Dec. 14.

Albert
Nvanz.i.

i I

!-|:l

■5 ';

l.|4

pTRi^T-' :f7i«

1887.
Dec. 14.

Albert
A'vimza.

334

IN DABKEtiT AFIilCA.

cases only with him, we should have only ten to return
l>y a route upon which we had tired thirty cases. Ten
cases would he (juite as an inade(j[uate supply for us as
twelve would be for Emin. This was a mental review
of our position as \vc trudged northward along the shore
of the Albert. But hoping that at Kasenya Island, to
which we were wendin<>', we mii>ht be able to obtain a
canoe, I rescjlved upon nothing except to search for a
vessel of some kind for a couple of days, and failing
that, discuss the question frankly with my companions.

At our noon halt, a few miles north of Katonza's, the
first note of retreat was sounded. The otiicers were
both shocked and grieved.

" Ah, gentlemen," said I, " do not lo(jk so. You will
make mv own reorets greater. Let us look the facts
fairly in the face. If the island of Kasenya has no canoe
to give us, we must retrace our tracks ; there is no help
for it. We will devote to-day and to-morrow to the
search, but we are then face to face with starvation if we
linger longer in this deserted phiin. There is no culti-
vation on this acrid lake terrace, nothing nearer than
the plateau. Our principal hope was in Emin Pasha. I
thought that he could make a short visit in his steamers
to this end of the lake, and would tell the natives that Ik'
expected friends to come from the west. What lias
become of him, or why he could not reach here, we
cannot say. J5ut Katonza's villagers told us that they
liad never seen a steamer or a white man since Mason
Bey was here. They have heard that I'asati is in
Unyoro. Witlu.ut a boat it means a month's journey
to us to find him."

"There is but rneway besides retreating that appears
feasible to me, and that is by seizing upon some village
on the lake shore, and build an entrenched camp, and
wait events — say. for the news to reach Tnyoro, or
Wadelai, or Kabba Rega ; and Casati, Emin, or the
Unyoro king may become curious enough to send to
dis(tover who we are. But there is the food (piestion.
These lake villa<«'ers do not cultivate. Tliev catch fish
and make salt to sell to the people on the plateau for

111

JNEXFLICABLE ABSENCE OF EMIN.

380

)cllU()llS.

grain.

We sliould have to IbraQ-e, afsceiulino- and
descending daily that dreadful mountain slope. For a
week or so the natives of the plateau might resist eveiy
foraging party, but finally surrender, and emigrate
elsewhere to distant parts, leaving a naked land in our
possession. You must admit that this would he a most
unwise and foolish plan."

"Were our ])()at here, or could a canoe ])e procurable
hy any means, our position wouhl be thus : — We couhl
launch and man her with twenty men, supply them with
ten or twelve days' provisions and an officer, and bid
the crew ' (ilod speed,' while we could re-ascend to the
plrteau, seize upon a good position near the edge of the
plateau, render it (juickly unassailable, and forage north,
south, and west in a land abounding with grain and
cattle, and keep sentries ol)serving the lake and watching
for the sional of fire or smoke. On her arrival, a hundred
riHes could descend to the lake to learn the news of
Emin Pasha's safety, or perhaps of his departure, rid
Ukedi and Usoga, to Zanzibar. The last is probable,
l)ecause the latest news that I rec^eived from the
Foreign Office showed that he meditated taking such
a step. But now, as we ai-e without canoe or boat, I
feel, though \\q are but four days by water from
Wadelai, that we are onlv wastiui*' valuable time in
searching for expedients, when c(mimon-sense bids us
be off to the forest, find some suitable spot Hke Ibwiri
to leave our surplus stores, sick men, and convalescents
from Ugarrowwa and lpot<», and return here again with
our boat and a few dozen cases of ammunition. In
this inexplicable absence of Emin, or any news of him,
we sliould be unwise in wasting our streiigtii, cavrving
tlie too great surplus of ammunition, wlien perhaps the
Pasha has departed fnmi his province."

During our afternoon march we travelled along the
lake until the island of Kasenya bore from our
camping-place 127° magnetic, or about a mi'e distant,
and our observation ]>oint on the summit of the plateau
bore 28<)°.

We made a bush fence, and halted at an eai'ly hour.

18R7.
I >.'(•. 14.

Albert
Xvanza.

i i I.

J. .1 I f

i S!

m- '

iii

»■ ■/ "»

336

IN DARKEST AFRTCA.

1887.
Dec. Ih.

Albert
N vanza.

1 mI

;| 1

, B i . n

a "

■

.. iL

■ ;

The afcoriiooii was likewise spent in considerino; (;iii'
position more fully under the new light thrown upon
it by the determined refusal of Katonza and his followers
to entertain our friendship.

On the morning of the 15tli Deeend)er I sent
Lieutenant Stairs and forty men to speak with the
people of Kasenya Island, which is about 800 yards
from the shore. As the lake is very shallow, the
canoe with two fishermen which Lieutenant Stairs hailed
could not approach the shore to within several hundred
ya'.'ds. The mud was of unfathomed depth, and none
dared to put a foot into it. Ahjng the water's edge the
singular wood ambatch thrives, and continues its narrow
fringe around the southern extremity of the lake, re-
seml>ling from a distance an extensive range of fisher-
men's stakes or a tall palisade. The fishermen pointed
out a locality further up the lake where they could
approach nearer, and which was their landing-phice, the
distance tliev were then at bareh' allowin«>' the sounds of
the voice to be heard. We spent the morning awaiting
Lieutenant Stairs, who had consideral)le difficulty with
the mud and swamps. Li the afternoon I sent ]\h'.
Jephson and forty men to the landing-place indicated
by the natives, which was a low bluff wooded at the
summit, with depth of water sufficient for all practical
purposes. In reply to a hail a fisherman and his wife
came to within a good bow-shot from the shore, and
deigned to converse witli our party. They said —

" Yes, we remember a smoke-boat came here a long
time ago. There was a white man (C'olonel Alason) in
her, and he talked (juite friendly. He shot a hippo-
potamus for us, and gave it to us to eat. The l)ones lie
close to where you stand, which you may see for
yourselves. There are no large canoes on this lake or
anywhere about here, for the biggest will but hold two
or three people with safety, and no more. We 1)U}' our
canoes from the Wanyoro on the other side for fish and
salt. Will we carry a letter for yon to I'nvoro :* No
(with a laugh). No, we could not thiidv of such a
thing ; that is a work for a chief and a great man, and

[•in Of our

EXTRA OIWINAE Y FISHERMEN.

88;

we are poor people, no l>etter tliuii slaves. Will we sell
a canoe ? A little canoe like this will cany you
nowhere. It is onlv tit for fishinn' close to shore in
shallow waters like these. Which wav <li«l vou come
here 1: ^y the way of the Itnri t Ah ! that proves you
to 1)6 wicked peo})le. Who ever heard of good })eople
coming from that direction ? If you were not wicked
people you would have l»rought a l»ig boat with you,
like the other white man, and shoot hi[)pos like him. ( Jo
v<>ur ways — vonder lies your road ; hut as vou go vou
will meet with people as had as yourselves, whose work
is to kill people. There is no food close to this lake or
in all this plain. Fishermen like we have no need of
hoes. Look around everywhere and you will not find a
field. You will have to go hack to the mountains wiiere
there is fo(jd for you ; there is nothing here. Our
business is to make salt and catch fish, which wo rake
to the people ahove, and exchange for grain and beans.
This island is Kasenya, and l)elongs to Kavalli, and thi-
next place is Nyamsassi. (lO on. Why do you not go
on and try your luck elsewhere ^ The first white man
stopped in these waters one night in liis boat, and the
next morning he went on his way, and since then we
have not seen him or any other."

(to ! The inevitable closed around us to fulfil the
law that nothing worth striving for can be obtained but
by pain and patience. Look where we might, a way to
advance was denied to us, except by fighting, killing,
destroying, consuming and being consumed. Foi'
["nvoro we had no mone\', or u'oods fit for Rabba lioua.
Marchino' to Wadclai would onlv be a useless waste of
annnunition, and its want of it would probably prevent
our return, and so reduce us to the same hel})lessness
as Eniin Pasha was re})orted to l»e in. If we cast our
eyes lakewards we became conscious that we wei'c bipeds
recpiiring something fioatal»le to bear us over the water.
All roads except that by which we came were ch)sed, and
111 the meantime our provisions were exhausted.

At the evening's council we resolved to adopt the
only sensible course left us — that is, to return to Ibwiri,

VOL I. XV

1887.
Dec. 15.

.\lbert
Nyaiiisa.

Jt !

Ill

» 1

. 'lis*

i; I

ill'

~f^'"-r"^

1illl!M:iif

It
I i

21:^-. \._.^-.

1887.
Dfic. 15,

Albert
iSyanza.

33b

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

ei<>liteen days' journey from here, and there build a
strong stockade, then U) send a strong party to Ipoto
to l)ring up the l)oat, goods, otticers, and convalescents
to our stockade, and after leaving fifty riHes there under
three or four otticers, hurry on to I'garrowwa's settle-
ment, and send the convalescents from th^re back to
Ibwiri, and afterwards '•< .itinue our journey in search of
the ^[ajor and the rear column before he and it was a
wreck, or marched into that wilderness whence \\c s<j
narrowly escaped, and then, all united again, march on
to this place with the ])oat, and finish the mission
thoroughly, with no anxieties in the rear bewildering or
enfeel)ling us.

The following day, December IGth, a severe rainstorm
detained us in r{\m\) until 9 a.>[. The low hard plain
.^absorbed the water but slo'vly, and for the first hour we
tramped through water up to the knee in some places.
We then emerged on a gentlv rolling ])lain, where the
grass was but three inches liigh, with clumps of bush
and low trees a few score of yards apart, making the
whole scene reseml)lc an ornamental park. Arriving at
the path c(mnecting the landing-place of Kasenya with
the mountain pass by which we descended, we crossed
it, kee})ing parallel to the lake sliore. and about a mile
and a half from it. Presently herds of game ap])eared.
and, as our people were exceedingly short of provisions,
we prepared to do our best to obtain a supply of meat.
After some trouble a male kudu fell to my share,
and Saat Tato. the hunter, dropped a hartebeest.
Two miles beyond the lanaing-place of Kasenya we
halted.

Our ol)ject in halting here was to l»lind the natives of
Katonza's, who, we felt sure, would follow us to see if
we had moved on. for naturally, having ])ehaved so
unruly to us, they might well entertain fears, or at least
anxiety, respecting us. At night we proposed to retrace
our steps, and follow the road to the foot of the moun-
tain pass, and lu'fore dawn commence the steep and
stony ascent, and be at the summit before the natives
of the table-land al)uve would be astir — as a struiigle

TULA CUE It OrS SA I 'A OES.

889

with such determined pe()})le, heavily loaded as we were
was to 1)6 avoided if possible.

About 3 P.M., as we were (>cciii)ied in divi<liiii)' the xy
game among the hungry peo})le, some l live yells were
heard, and half a dozen arrows fell ';io the halting-
place. Nothing can give a better i<lea of the blind
stupidity or utter recklessness of these savages than
this instance of half a score of them assaulting a well-
appointed c(mipany of 170 men in the wilderness, any
two of whom were more than a match for them in a
tight. Of course, having delivered their yells and shot
their arrows, they turned sharply about and tied.
Probal)ly they kne' they couhl rely upon their speed,
for they left our pv.u> ing men far out of sight in an
incrediblv short th le, ihe ten savages who thus visited
US were the same who had atlected such solicitude as to
come to ascertain if ve had lost the road yesterday.

In my ranib^ ^s after meat during the day. far down
the shore of the i.ake from the halting-place. 1 came to
vast heaps of Ixmes of shuightered game. Tlicy seem to
have been of many kinds, from the ele])hant and
hippopotamus down to the small bush-bok. It is probable
that tiiey had been surrounded l»y natives of the district
who, with the assistance of fire, had slaughtered them in
heaps within a circle of not more than .')00 yards in
diameter.

Saat Tato the hunter, after wounding a buffalo, was
deterred from following it by the a])pearance of a full-
grown lion, who took up the chase.

The shore of the Lake as it trends North Easterly,
increases greatly in l)eauty. ( )ver a score of admii'alile
camping places were seen by me close by the edge of the
Jiake, with slopes of wldte firm sand, over nmch oi
which the waves rolled ceaselessly. Behind was a back-
ground of green groves isleted amid greenest sward, and
game of great variety abounding near by ; while a view
of singular magniticence and l)eauty gi'eeted the eye in
every direction.

At 5.30 P.M. we oathered touether, and silentlv Li'ot
mto order of march for the base of the mountain. We

Dec. It).

.\lbert
auza.

I'i, i

lit ;

I . It

11;

1 1

ill

340

IN DA BREST AFRICA.

' '1

. \

^ 1

r ' i

1887. hud three sick pe()})le with us, two of them had not yet
'■ recovered from the effects of our miscrahhMhiys in the
Nyauza. .^I'eat forest, another suffered from a high fever incurred
in hist night's i*ain-storm.

At 9 I'.M. we stumbled r.pon a vilhige, wliich confused
us somewhat, hut the Imge mountain, rising like a dark
cloud ahovc us, prevented us from retracing our steps,
which without it we might well have done, as it was
exti'emely dsirk. In dead silence we passed through the
sleeping village, and followed a path out of it, which, de-
generating into a mere trail, was soon lost. For another
hour we bore on, keeping our eyes steadily fixed on the
darker shadow that rose to the starry sky above us,
until at last wearied nature, betrayed by the petulance
of the advance guard, deman(h>d a halt and rest. We
threw ourselves d')wn on the grass even where we halted,
and were scjon in deepest slumber, indifferent to all
troubles.

At dawn we rose from a deep slee]), drenched with
dew and but little refreshed, and gazing up at the
immense wall of the table-land that rose in four orand
terraces of about GOO feet each, we discovered that we
were yet about two miles from the foot of the })ass. We
therefore pressed forward, and shortly reached the base
of the ascent. By aneroids we were 150 feet above
the level of the Lake, which was 2400 feet above the
sea, and we were 2500 feet below the summit of
the saihlle, or sunken ridge l>etween the Northern and
Southern ranges whose Eastern ends frowned above us.

While the carriers of the expecHtion broke their fast
on the last morsels of meat received from yesterday's
hunting, thirty picked men were sent up to seize the
top of the ascent, and to keep the post while the loaded
caravan struggled upward.

After half-an-hour's grace we commenced ascending
up the rocky and rain-scoui'ed slope, with a fervid
" Bismillah " on our lips. After the fatiguing night-
march, the after-chill of the dew, and drizzling rain
and cold of the earlv morn, we were not in the best
condition to climb to a 2500 feet altitude. To increase

(1 not yet
_vs ill tlic
• iiicui'R'd

confused

vc a (lark

)ur steps,

as it was

rouu'li the

vliicli, de-

)!• anotlier

ed on tlie

al)()ve us,

petulance

rest. We

we halted,

ent to all

iclied with
ip at the
our oraiid
^(1 that we
])ass. We
d the base
eet ahove
above the
ummit of
'tliern and
above us.
! their fast
'^esterday's
) seize the
the loaded

ascendinii'
a fervid
ing niglit-
^lino' rain
I the best
'o increase

TIU-: TElilllULE i'LIMli TO T/IK TA /ILK-LAM).

841

oiir (Hsconifort, tlie Kastern sun shone full on our backs, iss;.
and the rocks reflected its heat in our faces. One of the ^*''' ^'

.SK

■k

men in delirium waiu

lered

iwav, another sutferinu'

from liiu'h bilious fever surreiid(M'ed and would proceed

furtl

ler

leii we were liali-wav uj)

lf->

'1'

twel

ve natives

of Katoiiza's were seen far below on the })lains, bounding-
aloiiu' the track in hot chase of the Ivxpedilioii, with the
(tbject of picking' up stra_n'_ulers. 'I'liey probably stumbled
across our sick men. and the ease with which a delirious
and unarmed person fell a sacrifice to their spears would
inspire them with a desii-e to try a^ain. However,
Lieutenant Stairs was in charu(M)f the i-ear Liuard. and
no doubt would i;i\'e a u'ood account of them if they
approached within raiine.

At the top of the secoiul terrace we found a little
stream which was refreshingly cool, for the (piartzose
rocks and n'ueissic boulders were scorchinu'. That the
column suflcred terribly was e\ident by the manner it
stra^u'led in fragments over the slopes and terratcd
flats, and by the streams of perspiration that coursed
down their naked bodies. It was a ureat relief tliat our
sharp-shooters held the brow of the hill, f )r a few bold
spearmen nii,uht have decimated the jiantinu' and ,u'as])iiio'
sutferers.

At the top of the thir(l terrace there was a sh<»rt halt,
and we could c(mimand a view far down to the rear of
the cohnnn. which had not vet reaclie<l the summit of
the first terrace, and perceived the twelve natives
steadily following" at about 500 yards' distance, and one
by one thev were seen to be?id over an object, which I
afterwards found from the connnandcn' of the rear-guai'd
was our second sick man. Each native drove his s[)ear
into the body.

( )bserving their object, it was resolved that their
hostility should be [)unished, and Saat Tato the hunter
and four other experts were posted l)ehind some large
rocks, between which they could ol>serve without being'
detected.

In two a'id three-quarter hours we reached the brow'
of the plateau, and were standing li\ the advance-guard,

AllM-rf

•!)l(

III 111!

■ I

842

7.V DAUKF.sT AFIIK'A.

Df'.'. 17.

The
riatc'KU.

who liatl done excelleut service in ki'i'[)iii^ tin* eiioiiiy
Hwav, and as tlic R'ai'-<^"uard mounted ihc liei,i:;ht we
lioard tiie sharp crack of riHes from the aml»ushed J)iirty,
who were aven,iiin_u' tlie nunder of two of tlieii- comrades.
One was sliot dead, another was home away
and the ferocious scavengers had t1e(h

During the short Itreathin*:; i)ause the advanee-guard
were .sent to exph)re tlie village near l»y, which, it seems,
was the exchange })lace between the plateau natives and
Lakists, and the gratifying news of a rich diseovery soon

needing,

(.OliX (ilJAXAUY UF TllK liABL'SESSE.

spread tlirough the column. A large store of grain and
beans had been found, suthcient to give eaeh man fi- c
days' unstinted rations.

At 1 P.M. we resumed our march, after giving positive
command that ch)se order should be maintained in order
to avoid accidents and unnecessary loss of life. From
the front of the column, the aborigines, who had in the
interval of the halt gathered in vast numbers, moved
away to our Hanks and rear. A hirge i)arty liid in
some tall grass through which they supposed we should

EXULTJSd SAriVES ClI Et'KEl).

343

pass, ]»ut we sworved aside thnni^li a Idvadtli of short
orass. I5att1e(l l)v tliis movement tliev rose from their
coverts and souolit l>v other means to •'ratifv tlieir
spleenish hate.

In <'rossin<i' a deep onlly near tlie knoll, which had
already witnessed a stirrinj^' contest hetween ns, the
centre and rear of the colnmn liecanic somewhat con-
fused in the cany orjiss, and crossed over in three or
four broken lines ; our third sick man either purposely
lauiied Itehind. or feit liis failini"' powers too weak to
hear him fui'ther, and laid down in the grass, hut it is
certain he never issued from the uullv. We in the
advance halted for the column to reform, and just then
we heard a storm of triumphant cries, and a hody of
ahout 400 exulting natives came lea})ing down the
slopes, infatuated with their noisy rage and inditferent
to rear -guards. Doubtless the triumphant cries
were uttered when the sick man's fate was sealed.
AVe had lost three ! The rush was in the hoj)es of
obtaining another victim. And, indeed, the rear-
guard, burdened with loads and harassed by their
duties, seemed to promise one speedily. But at this
juncture an expert left the advance and proceeded to
take Tiosition three hundred vards awav from the line of

J- v v

march, and nearer to the exultant natives, who wi'e
bounding gleefully towards the tired i-ear-guard. I lis
first shot laid a native Hat. a second smashed the arm of
another and penetrated his side. There was an instant's
silence, and the advance leaped from tlieir position to
assist the rear-guard, who were immediately relieved of
tlieir pursuers.

An hours journey beyond this scene we eamped on a
tabular hill, which commanded a wide view of rich
})lains, for the night — footsore and weary beyond any
former experience.

On this afternoon I reflected u]»oii the sinoularitv that
savages possessing such acute fear of death should yet
so frequently seek it. Most mt would have thought
that the losses which had attentu i tlieir efforts on the
10th, nth, 12th, and 13tli would deter such as these

l«87.
Uoc. 17.

• liivira's

I i

', 'I

I, s

1 }

■

1H87.
Dec. 17.

Gaviva'.s,

■M.

4 :|

844

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

I'oni provokiuo' stranii'ci's who

hud

)r()ve(

I tl

R'lnseives

so well al)le to defeii'l themselves. At one time we had
almost been convinced tiiat fii'e would teach them
caution ; we had also thou^yht that keeping in a (juiet
line of march, ahstaining from jjaying hee.l to their
war-cries and their manoeuvres, and only act \\hen thev
rushed to the attack, were sufficient to H'ive them
glimpses of our rule of conduci. Ihit this was the fifth
(lav of our forhearance. We wei'c losing men. and we
could ill afford to lose one. for a vast woi-k remained
unfinished. We had still to penetrate the forest twice,
we had to proceed to Ipoto to carry our hoat to the
Nyanza, search the shores of the Lake as far as Wadelai
—even Duffie'. if necessary — for news of Kmin, to return
back again to the assistance of .Majoi' iJarttelot and the

rear-'',olumn — wlio were

bv tl

lis time no doubt lookin;

anxiouslv for help, wearied with their o\ei'whelminu'

./ L ■

task — andagnin to march through these grass-land tribes
to be each time sul)jectto fatal loss through their un])rc-
cedented recklessness antl courage, 1 re-^olved, then.
that the next day we sliouhl tiy to find what eflcct
more active ojierations woidd ha\'c on tlicm.fbr it might
be that, after one sharp and severe h'>s(in and I
theii' cattle, they would consider whether war
profitable as peace

( »SS ( )

wa-

Accoi'diuiiiv, the niwt dav before dawn T calle(l f »i'

lunt

eers.

Kioht'

len resi)on(tc(i w

ith

alacritx'

instructions were few-

Vou see, bovs, these natives fiulit on the constant

rim

lev have sharp eves and loiiu limbs. In the

work of to-dav we white men are of no i

tse

\\'

are

all footsore and weary, and we cannot I'lm far in this
country, Thei'eforc* you '.sill go togetliei' with your
own chiefs, (Jo and hunttho.se fellows who killed our
sick men yesterdav. (Jo riulit to tlieii' villaues and
bring away every cow, sheej). and goat you can find.
|)on"t bother about fii'ing their huts, ^'ou must keep
on full spe(^d. and <'ha,se them out of excry caned)i'ake
and hill, iiring me .some prisoners that I may have some
of their own jx'ople to send to them with my words."

LIFE IX JFIUCA.

o-t- >

eaiiwlule we avai

led

.ftl

ourselves ot tlie halt to atteiK

to our personal attairs. ( )ur shoes and clotliiii^ii' needed
repair, and for hours we sat colthlinu and tailorinti'.

At five \v the afternoon the hand of \(»lunteers
returned, l)rinoing' a respectable heid of cattle with seveial
calves. 8ix hulls were slaughtered at once, and dis.
trihuted to the men according to their con.ipanies, whc
])ecanie nearly delirious with happiness.

" Su(di," said Three ( )'cl()ck the hunter, '• is life in

O.ivira's.

M '

'ii

j '

•

!l'

1 ' '

; 1

A VILLAiJL Ol' Till; UAVII!! lUlKnKANS TAlI.nlMNT.. lOTC

this continent with a caravan. ( )ne dav we ha\<' a
feast, and on the next the stonia<'h is cra\ing. Xcnci'
are two days alike. The people will eat meat now until
tliev are hlintl. and next month the\' will thank (Jo(l if
tl

lev i»et as niur

IS a wood-hean

Id,

Saat Tato had dis-

c()vere(

I lil

i«' ni

vself. that life in .\frica consists of

series of varie(l sutierings with intervals oj' short
pleasui'es.

The cold was \erv i>reat on this liiuh land. Madi
night since we had entered the grass countr> we had heen

r: ■■'

1887.
Deo. 18.

Mazam-

boni'.s.

3-i()

7.V DARKEST AFIUCA.

rolling

driven indoors near sunset by the raw misty weather of
the evening, and we shivered with chattering teeth in
the extreme chilliness of the vouno- dav. ( )n this morn-
ing the temperature was at 59' Fahrenheit. The men
were stark naked owing to the exactions and extortions
of the Manyuema, and had taken kindly to the leather
dresses of the natives, and the bark cloths worn by the
aborigines of the forest. A-cer experiencing the extremes
of cold to which these open pasture-lands were subject,
we no longer wondered at the tardiness shown by the
inhabitants to venture out bef)re nine o'clock, and it
would have been manifest wisdom f)rus to have adopted
their example, had our task permitted it.

On the 19th Decemlter we struck across the
plains towards Mazaml)oni. As we came near Gavira s
we were hailed by a group of natives, who shouted out,
'" The country lies at your feet now. You will not be
interfered with any more ; but you would please us well
if you killed the chief of Undussuma, who sent us to
drive you back."

At noon, as we were a1)reast of the Balegga Hills, two
parties of forty men each were observed to l)e following
us. They hailed us finally, and expressed a wish to
"look us in the face." As they declined the permission
to approach us without arms, they were sharply ordered
away, lest we should suspect them of sinister designs.
Thev went awav submissivelv.

t/ t/ %.■

In the afternoon we came to the villages of those who
had so persistently persecuted us on the 12th. The
people were spread over the hills \'ociferating fiercely.
The advance-guard were urged forward, and the hills
were <'leared, despite the storms of abuse that were })oured
out by the Balegga.

A few of the captured cattle furnished milk. Our
goats also gave an ani])le supply for tea and coffee. whi<'h
we were l)ound to accept as evidence that the heart of
Africa could sup|)ly a few comforts.

(Ml the *JOth our march lav throuoii the ricli vallev of
r'ndussuma, the villages of which had been tired on tlie
lV>tii and llth. Already it had I'ccovered its aspect of

THE TIICH VALLEY OF VyDUSSUMA.

347

populousness and prosperity, for tlie huts were all Itnilt
anew, but it w^is still as death, the inhabitants sitting on
the mountains looking down u})on us as we marched
])ast. Not being challenged or molested, we passed
through in close order amidst a voiceless peace. Alay it
not be that by comparing one day's conduct with another.,
the now from then, the children of Mazamboni will
accept the proffer of friendshij) which we may make on
our return ? We felt that the next time we came into
the land we should be received with courtesy, if not with
hospitality. Thus steadily, in view of hundreds of
Mazamboni's warriors, we passed through the renovated
valley. The millet was now rijie for the harvest, and
with our departure westward, happy days were yet in
store for them.

The next dav we entered the Abunouma countrv, and
after fording the East Ituri Eiver, camped on the right
bank.

The 22nd was a halt — both Lieutenant Stairs and my-
self wei'e prostrated by ague and footsores : and on the
23rd we marched to the main Ituri River, where we
found that the Bal)usesse' had withdrawn every canoe.
We proceeded down along the l»ank to a part of the
stream that was islanded. By 2 p.m. of the 24th we had
made a very neat and strong sus])ension bridge from the
left l»ank to an island in midstream, though only two
men could travel by it at a time. Uledi, the coxswain
of the advance, with a chosen band of thirteen men,
swam from the island to the right bank with their riHes
over their shoulders, and the gallant fourteen men scoured
up and down the banks fc^r canoes, but were unsuccessful.
In the meantime a terrible st(trm of liail as large as
mar])les beat down oui' tents, nearly froze the men, ami
made everybody miserable with cold. The tem})erature
had suddenly fallen from 75^ to 52 Fahrenheit. After
lasting fifteen minutes the sun shone on a camp ground
strewn with hail.

At daylight, Christmas morning, I sent Mr. .b'pli^on
and Chief Hashid across the river with instructions to
make a raft of banana stalks, h was noon before it was

1887
Dec. 20.

Uiidus-
^unla.

t \

848

1.SS7.
Uec. •_'!.

Babusosso.

\Jil\f-:.<T JFJIICA.

fiiiisliGil, Imt ill the ineantiiiie tlie cnvnaii was passin,2:^>y
tliL' suspension bridoe to rl>e isiau'l- and the ferriage hy
raft conimeni-ed, taknig four men with loads at one trip.
Tn one hour we transported forty men aiul their ioads by
tliese banana stalks, (j-ettino' more (*i)nfident, we sent six
men and six loads at one trip, and by 4 p.m. No, 2 Com-
pany was safe across. No. I C'om})any theii tui'ned to
haul tlie cattle fro:"n the left bai'k ishunb and after the
rear-o'uard liad crossed by the luido'e, "Three O'clock"
laid his bill-hook to the suspens'on bridge, and with a
few strokes destroyed it.

Glii:.\T KUlK NKAK IMtK-TUNliA.

liy noon of the ^(itli the Mxpedition was ai-ross the
main Itiiri iiixcr. Six calyes were slaughtered foi- a
Christmas ration of beef. The next (hiy one of our head
men died from inflammation of the lungs, caused by a chill
caught while lialting on the brow of the phiteau after the
{)erspiring ascent from the lake ])laiii. l)y the 2l)th we
had reached IiMW-*ura : we thence pi'occe(led to the small
sillau'e <.f three hyi!-5 iH'.ir I\ u<>u. ( >n th*- Ist nf .laniiai'V,

,' H

BOIU'O'S VILLAGE UiW'XT.

81!)

i,i.

188S. we camped at lii(le-t<)ii,f''(». and ilie li-'xi (l;;v passed
l>va uiyaiuic oTanite roek in the forest, wl'-.-h sometimes
is iised l»y the forest natives as a I'efiij .^ le.-oi't (hiring
internecine strife.

< )n the Oth January we passed l)y Indc !)n\ani, and came
across the spot whence Msliarasha.a Zan/iltari. liad faUen
fi'om a \()ix 'Hid l)roken his neck. Tlie scaveniiers of tlie
woods — the red ants — had eaten the scalp and j)icked the;
skull clean, until it resembled a larue osti'i<'h euu'. The
chest of the hodv was still entire, hut the lower limits
were consumed clean. ( )n the next day we entered
Ihwiri, and came to Borvo's village; hut, alas! for our
fond hopes of renderin*;' the villaoe comfortahle for occu-
pati )n, the natives had set fire to their own fine dwell-
ino's. Fortunatelv for us, thev had taken the ])recaution
to pick out the finest hoards, and had stacked many oi
them in the hush. The large stores of Indian corn had
heen hastily removed into tem[)orary huts huilt within
the recesses of im})ervious hush. We set to at once to
collect the corn as well as the hoards, and hefore night
we had begun the construction of ihe %ture Fort Budo,
or the " Peaceful Fort."

1887.
I».v. -29.

Imlt'sura.

i :i

VlliW UF '••ulil' U'Jlnj.

350

AV DARKEST AFRICA

CHAPTER XTIT.

rill

u t:

lliii \

1888.
Jai\. 0.

LIFE AT FORT BODO.

Onr impending duties — The stockade of Fort Bodo— Instructions to
Lieutenant Stairs— His departure for Kiloupx-Lon.uM's — Pestered by
rats, nios(iuitoes, Ac. — Nights disturbed hy the lemur — Armies of
red ants— Snakes in tropical Africa— Hoisting the Egyptian flag —
Arrival of Surgeon Pai'kc and Captain Nelson from Ipo'o — Report
of their stay with the Manyuema — Lieutenant Stairs arrives with
the ste<'l boat — We determine to i)ush on to the Lake at once —
Volunteers to convey letters to Major Barttelot — Illness of myself
and Captain Nelson — Lledi cai)tures a Queen of the Pigmies— Our
fields of corn— Life at Fort Podo — We again set out for the Nyanza.

Ox arriviiiL>' at West Ihwiri, alxjut t;) Ituild Fort Bodo,
J felt precisely like a " city man ' returiiiiig from
'''°' his liol^'lny to Switzerland or the sea-side, in whose
absence piles of business letters have gathered, which re-
quire urgent attention and despatch. They must he
opened, read, sifted, and arranged, and as he reflects on
tiieii' import he pei'ceives that there are many serious
affairs, which, unless attended to with method and
dilioeuce. will involve him in confusion. Our holidav
trip had l)een the direct and earnest march to the Albert
i.ake, to serve a Uovernor who had cried to the world,
'"Kelp us (juickly. or we ])erish." For the sake of this,
]\Iajor Barttelot had been allowed to bi'ing up the rear
column, the sick had been housed at Ugarrowwa's and
Kilonga-Longa's stations, the extra goods had been buried
in a sandy cache at Nelson's starvation camp or stored
at Ipoto. the boat A<lr<niCt' had Ijeen disconnected and
hidden in the bush, and Nelson and Surgeon Parke
had been boarded with the jNIanyuema, and everything
that had threatened to impede, delay, or thwart the
march had been thrust aside, or elude(l in some way.
But now that the (JoNci'nor. who ha<l been the cynosure

THE STOCKADE OF FOJiT liODO.

351

of our imaginations and the subject of our daily ai-ou-
ments, had either departed homeward, or could, or would
not assist in his own rel-a. the various matters thrust
aside for his sake reoui--e(i immediate attention. So I
catalogued our impending duties thus : —

To extricate Nelson and Parke from the dutches of
the Manyuema, also to l»i'ing up the convalescents, the
Advance steel l)oat, Maxim nvichine gun, and ] 1(1 loads
stored at Ipoto.

To construct Fort Bodo, to securely house a garrison :
make a clearing; plant corn, Iteans. tohacco. that the
defenders may he secure, fed, and comforted.

To communicate with ^laior Barttelot l»v couriers, or

VlliW OV FOUT BUDO.

1888.
.Ian. t3.

Fort Bodo.

proceed myself to him; to escort the convalescents at
IJgarrowwa's.

If l)oat was stolen oi' destroyed, then to make a canoe
for transport to the Xyanza.

If Barttelot was reported to he advancing, to liasten
su[)plies of corn and <'arriers to his assistance.

And first, the most needful duty was to employ vwvy
soul in the l)uilding of the stockade, within which tlic
Ituildino's could he (Mmstructed at more leisure, and with-
out the necessitx" of liaving I'itles slung to our shoulders.
Uuringour absence the natives had burnt West Ibwiri,
and P)orvo's fine village was a smoking ruin when we
entered. But the finest boai'ds had been stripped (»tf
the l)uildings, and were stacked outside, and the coi'n ha<l

362

i.V DAKKEHT AFltlCA.

: 1!

£ .

fiiil'i'

188.'^.
Jan. t3.

Fort Bodo

heoii hastily removed to tempornrv lints in im})ervioiis
hush two hundred yards away. These were now invaln-
al)le to us.

By the ISth of January the stockade of Fort PxmIo
was completed. A hundred men had been cutting tall
poles, and bearing them to those wiio had sunk a narrow
trench outlinino- the area of the fort, to })lant firmly and
closely in line. Three rows of crcjss poles were hound
hy strong vines and rattan creepers to the uprights.
(Jutside the poles, again, had heen fixed the })lanking,
so that while the garrison might he merry-making hy
firelight at night, no vic-ious dwarf, or ferocious aborigine
might cree]) up, and shoot a poisoned arrow into a
throni*-, and turn iov to orief. At three an <»les (jf the
fort, a tower sixteen feet high had heen erected, fenced,
and boarded, in like manner, for sentries by night and
day to observe securely any movement in the future
fields ; a han(|uette rose against the stockade for the
defenders to c(nnniand greater view. For during the
months that we should be employed in realizing our
stated tasks, the Manyuema might possibly unite to
a^f-f^ult the fort, and its defence therefore reijuired to
be t 'ullet-proof as well as arrow-proof.

V. hen the stockade was completed, the massive
uprights, beams, hundreds of rafters, thousands of
climbers, creepers, vines, for rhe frames of the officers'
buildings, storerooms, kitchens, corn-ljins, outhouses,
piles of phrynia leaves for roofing the houses, had to
be collected, and then when the gross work was so far
advanced on the evenino- of the iSth, Lieutenant Stairs
W{'.s summoned to receive his special instructions, which
were somewhat as follows : —

" You will proceed to-morrow with a hundred rifles to
Ipoto, to see what has 1)ecome of Nels(m, Parke, and our
sick men, and if living to escort every man here. You
will also bring the boat Advance, and as many goods as
p( )ssihle. The last letters from Nelson and Parke informed
us of many unpleasant things. We will hope for the
best. At any rate, you have one hundred men, strong
and robust as the Manyuema ncjw, and their march t(-)

i '•

STAIRS' EX FED IT J ON TO II'OTO.

tlie AlV)ert Lake lias made men of tlieni. They are filled
with hate of the Maiiyuema. They <»;() there indepen-
dent, with corn rations of their own. Yon may do what
you like with them. Now, if Nelson and l^arke have no
complaints of hostility other than oeneral niii<j;ardlinesH
and sulkiness of the Manynema, do not he involved
in any argument, accusation, or reproach, but hring-
them on. If the l)oat is safe, and has not been injured,
halt l)ut one day for rest, and then hoist her up on your
shoulders and carry her here. But if the survivor's will
prove to you that blood has been shed l»y violence, and
any white or black man has been a victim, or if the boat
has been destroyed, then consult with the survivin"'
whites and blacks, think over your plans leisurely, and
let the results be what they ought to be, full and final
retaliati(m. That is all, except remember for (Jod's sake
that every day's absence beyond a reasonable period
necessary for marching there and back, will be dooming
us here to that eternal anxiety wdiicli follows us on
this Expedition wherever we go. It is enough to be
anxious for Barttelot, the Pasha, Nelson and Parke and
our sick men, without an.y furtlier addition."

Three cows were slaughtered for meat rations for
Stairs' Expedition, each man received 120 ears of corn,
goats, fowls, and plaintains ^vere taken for the (M)m-
mander and his two friends, and the party set off for
Kilonga-Longa on the 19th.

Stairs' party at muster consisted of —

88 men.

6 chiefs.

1 oflBcer.

1 boy.

1 cook.

1 Manyema.

The garrison numbcred-

60 men.

3 cooks.

4 boys.

8 whites.

1HK8.
Jan. 18.

Fort lioiio.

After the departure of Stairs, I commenced the con-
struction of a corn-bin to store 300 bushels of Indian
corn, and to plaster the interior of head-quarters.
Jephson busied himself in levelling fioor of officers'

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Jau. 18.

Fort Bodo,

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

liouHC. Men cnrriod day, others rammed and tamped.
8()m(! men were on the roofs arranoino- the lar.oe-leaved
phrynia one altove the other on a kind of trestle frame,
others foi'med bidders, made clay-dough for the walls,
doors and windows for the houses, built kitehens,
excavated latrines, or dug the diteh — ten feet wide, six
feet deep — through a hard yellow clay, that lay under the
twenty-four inches of hunms and loam of the clearing.
When the houses were completed, we made a whitewasli
out of wood ashes, which gave them a clean and neat
appearance

PLAN OP FORT BODO AND VICINITY. By Lieut. Stairs, R.E.

On the 28tli, head-quarters was ready for occupation.
We had cleared three acres of land, cut down the bush
clean to the distance of 200 yards from the fort, chopped
the logs — the lighter a .ere carried away, the heavier were
pilecl up— and fire applied to them, and the next day
folded the tents and removed to our mansions, which, as
Jephscm declared, were " remarkably snug." There was
at fiist a feeling of dampness, but a charcoal fire burning
night and day soon baked the walls dry.

f!!

COySTliUCriON OF IIEADQUAliTEn^.

805

To F'el iriuiiy C we cxteiulod tlie clejirinn', hut dis-
(•(n'criiif!; that natives were prowhnj;' ahout the tort,
j)laiitin,i;' poisoned splinteis in the ]»aths, cuttin*;' (h)\vn
the l)ananas, and l»ent on general mischief, half of the
oari'ison were divided into two [)arties of patrols, to
scour the plantations and the adjoining- forest. On this
day's exphmitions several camps of dwarfs were found
at the distance of a mile from the fort, with stores of
])laintaius in theii' possessi(m. Thev were thoroui^hly
rousted out, and their camps were destroyed.

After a few days' experiences of life in the l)uildin_i>s
we found we were to he annoved hv hosts of rats, tieas,
and microscopically small mos(|uitoes. The rats de-
stroved our corn and ])it our feet, spoiled wantonly over
oui- faces, and })layed hide-and-seek under our hed-
clothes. It seems that hy their wondrous craft they
liad discovered the natives were a]»out to hurn West
Iltwiri, and had mi<;Tated in time out of harm's way into
the deep l)ush and the corn fields, and they prohahly
had a <lini idea that such an elii^ihle place would not
remain \u\\<^ without tenants. When the commodious
houses of the Europeans were erected, with spa<'ious
lofts, and corn-])ins with an inexhaustible supply of
orain, they had waited until everythino- was prepared ;
i)ut in the meantime the strange white men had
excavated a long and deep ditch half round the fort, the
walls of which had heen carved perpendicularly out of
the clay, into which, in their scurr}- and Imrry U) take
possession, several families of rats tund)led, and one
morning " Randy," the fox-terrier, leaped in among
them, and exterminated the unfortunates. Still, frcmi
the Zanzil>ari village some wise old rats had found safe
entrance and multiplied so fast that, until we became
accustomed to their playful though rude s2)ort, we
tliouoht them to be an intolerable nuisance.

At the same time the warm drv clay Moors beoan to
1)reed Heas bv mvriads. Poor " Randv " was most
miserable from these vexatious torments. We were in
no l)etter plight. While dres.sing they made our limbs
black with their numbers. To suppress this pest we

188S.
.Ian. 19.

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IN DAIiKEUT AFRICA,

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188»^. had recourse to keepiiifi; the flf)ors constantly damp, and
Feb. b. |.^j svveepinuj the Hoors twice a day.
Fortiiodo. rpj^^ (mlinary mos(juito nettin<T was no protection
against the mos(|uitoes of the '-learinf!^. They saik'*!
throu«;h the open work as mice woukl creep tlirounii
antelope nets, and the only remedy was to make
mos(piito curtains out of cotton muslin, which ha})pily
succeeded, hut half sufibca ted the sleepers.

Our soap had lon^- ago l)een exhausted, and as a
su])stitute, though it was not agreeable to the smell,
and was an altogether unsaleable article, we manu-
factured a soft soap out of castor-oil and lye, and, after
a few ex])eriments, succeeded in turning out a hard ball-
like substance, which had all the desired etfect.

Every night, from Yaml)uya to the plains, we had
been troubled bv harsh screams from the lemur. It
began at a startling loud key, very deliberate, and as
it proceeded the sounds became louder, quicker, and
higher, in a (piick succession of angry, grating, wailing
cries. In the darkness and silence of the night, they
sounded very weird. Soon, from a distance of perhaps
200 yards, cimimenced a response in the same strain,
from another sexual mate. Sometimes two or three
jjairs of these would make sleep impossible, if any
in(lis})osition had temporarily disturbed the usual rest.

Armies of red ants would sometimes invade the fort
from the clearing ; their columns were not interrupted
by the ditch. In long, thi(jk, unbroken lines, guardetl
by sohliers on either flank, the innumerable insects
would descend the ditch and ascend the opposite sides,
over the parapets, through the interstices of tlie poles,
over the bancjuette, and down into the plaza of the fort,
some columns attacking the kitchen, others head-
(juarters, the officers' mess-house, and woe l)etide any
unlucky naked foot treading upon a myriad. Better
a flogging with nettles, or cayenne over an excoriated
biuly, or a caustic bath for a ravenous itch, than these
Ititing and ven(mi<)us thousands climl)ing u]) the limbs
and body, burying themselves in the hair of the liead,
and })lunging their shining, horny numdibles into the

} i

PEHTERED BY JiATS, MOSQIITOES, ETC.

.')«

tlesli, oreating painful })ustules with every bite. Eveiy
livino' thing seems disturhed at their i'oniing. j\]en are
screaming, Itellowing witli })ain, dancing, an<l writhing.
There is a general rustle, as of a host of migrant
creatures among the crisp dry })hrynia leaves overhead.
The rats and mice, snakes, beetles, and crickets are
niovinu'. From a slunu: t;f>t I have observed. l>v candle-
light, the avengers advancing over the floor of my
house, scaling the walls, searching tlie recesses of every
hiver of leaves, skirmishing among the nooks and cran-
nies, mouse-holes, and cracks; heaid moaning and crying
of little blind mice, and terrifieds(]uealing()f motherly and
paternal rats, and hailed them as a blessing, encouraging
tliem along (m their career of destruction, until presently
some })erverse and undisciplined tril>es would droj) from
tlie roof (m my cot, and convert their well-wisher into a
vindictive enemy, who, in his rage, would eall aloud for
hot glowing embers and roast them alive l)y thousands,
until the air was heavy with the o(h)ur of frizzling and
frying ants. Bad luck to them !

While digging in the stiff yedow clay, to form the
ditch, we have c(mie across burnt wood in the liard
com})acted material, 5 feet l)el()w the surface of the
humus. Yet there were stately trees, 100, 1 oO, and
200 years old, aljove. The site was level, and apparently
undisturbed.

One of our surprises has ])een the immunity we have
enjoyed from snake-bites in tropical Africa. The con-
tinent swarms with reptiles of all kinds, from the silvery
and l»lind typhlops to the huge ))yth<>n ; Itut while
travelling and navigating over 24,000 miles of land and
water in Africa, only two men have been woundetl,
neither of which cases proved mortal, liut the instant
we begin clearing a forest, or hoeing a field or a road-
way, we begin to realize the dangers we have esca|)ed.
During the work of clearing the prostrate logs, and
rooting out the bushy undergrowth and prepaiing for
cultivation, we came a(a'oss many s])ecinu'ns. some
remarkably beautiful. Coiled in the buslu's. green as a
icndci' young v.heat-blade. were the slender whip-snakes.

1H88.
Keb. (i.

Kurt Bodu.

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1888.
Feb. t).

Fort Bodo

IX DAJi'KEST AFRICA.

wlii(;li (lro])po(l down Jimono- the men when tlie lull-hook
was applietl to destroy their perches. Various species
of the Dendr()})his, of hrilliant colourino;, also were
revealed. Three hloated })utf-adders, (jjor^eous in their
complicated system of decorations, were killed ; four
horned snakes crept out of their holes to attack and he
slain ; one of the Lvcodonti(Ue, curious for its lono-
fan^s, was roasted out of its hiding-place, while several
little, hlind, blunt-headed, silvery snakes, not much
larger than earthworms, were turned up hy the hoes.
Tortoises were very common, and the mephitis left
frecjuent traces of his existence.

While kites, the most daring of their tribe, soared
above every clearing in the forest, we never met a single
vulture until we reached the grass-land. A few white-
collared eagles now and then made their appearance,
but there were parrots innumerable. From grey dawn
to dusk these birds always and everywhere made their
presence known. A few herons occasionally rested on
trees in the clearinu" towards evenino;. Thev were
l)robablv fati(»ued with their Hi^ht from the Nvanza.
The black ibis and wagtails were our constant com-
panions in the wihls. Trees with weaver birds and
their nests were a feature near every forest village.
The neighbourhood. an<l finally our plantation.^ even
within a dozen yards of the fort, were visited by troops
(►f elephants. Buffalo and wild-hog tracks were common,
but we were not naturalists. None of us had leisure,
and probably but little taste, for collection of insects,
butterflies, and birds. To us an animal or a bird was
something h> eat, but with all our etforts we seldom
ol>tained anything. We only noted what happene«l to
catcli our eves or cross our track. We had too nianv
an.xieties to be interested in anvthinix save what was
connected with them. If a native oi' a Zanzibari picked
up a brilliant longicorn b'^'tle or hawk-moth, or fine
butterfly, or a huge mands, or brought birds' eggs, or a
rare flower, a lily or an orchid, a sriake or a tortoise, my
mind wandered to my own sj)ecial business, even while
gazing at and approving the find. My family was

•I

VOMl'LETION OF THE FORT.

'sm

hour

;ilt(\uvrlior too l}n'(»o t<> pcnnit frivolity ; not an
passt'd Itut my taiicies tied after Stairs at l})()to; or
niv tliouglits wcM'o tilled with visions of l>arttelot and
Jameson strnogiin^' thron^i,di the forest, overwhehned
with their oi<;anti(' task, or they dwelt m-on the niysteiy
surrounilin**' the Pasha, or upon the vicious dwarfs and
the murderous l^alesse and their doinn's, or upon the
necessities of providing, day after day, foo<l and meat
tor the present, as well as for future months.

On the 7tli of Feliruarv the soun(lin<,»' line was
stretched out to measure out the apj)roaches to the j^ates
of the fort, and most of the garrison were employed for
several davs in cutting' l)]'oa<l. straiuht roads, east and
west, for (piick ti'avel and easy defence. Mi^uhty lo^s

■re cut throuii'h and rolled aside, the roads were

Fob. G.
I'ort Bodo,

cleaned, so

that

a mou

<e miiiht he detected crossinir

them at I'OO yards otf, a l»i-idue \vas huilt across the
stream west of the fort, hy which the scouts were
enabled to proceed from each of the plantations in a
short time, l)y night or Ity day. It may well he
ima»iined what etfect this tlood of \'\<i\\t had upon the
•ratty natives, who preferi'ed l)uri'owin<^' in dark shades,

and creep under the lee of monster loos, furtively spyin
out o})portunities for attack, Tliey felt that they could
not cross the road at any point without hecomino- a
target for a sentry's ritle, or their tracks would hetray
them to the patrols.

On the next morniui'' we raised a tlao-statf .50 feet
liiuh, and as the Eov])tian tlag was hoistecl u]), the
Soudanese were permitted to salute it with twenty-one
rounds.

We had scaively tinislied the little ceremony when a
shot was tired at the end of the western road, the sentiy^
Mt the tower commanding it sang out, "Sail ho," and
we knew the caravan was coming in from Ipoto.

Surgeon Parke was the tirst to arrive, looking won-
derfullv well, hut Nelson, who sutfered from sore feet,
and entered the fort an hour later, was prematurely
old, with pinched and drawn features, with the hent
hack and feeble leos hetittinu" an octouenarian.

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Feb. H.

Fort liodo,

The fol)()wihf]r jiccouiit will speak for itself, suid will
prove that the stay of these officers at the Maiiyenia
villai^e recpiired greater strenuth of mind and a moral
eouraji^e <»:reaier than was needed l)v us durinu- our
stormy advance across the <iTass-land. The}' were not
inspired l>y ener<i;ising motives to sustain or encourage
them in their hour of sutferinu' fi'oiu })hysical pros-
tration, sickness, and the wearvin<>' life tliev led
among those fearful people, the Alanyuema, whereas we
had heen home \\\) h\ the novelties of new scenes, the
constant high pitch of excitement, the jjassion of travel
and strife. Thcsv suffered from the want of the neces-
saries of life day after day, while we revefled in
a])undance, and the greatest difficultv of all was to })ear
all these sufferings inflicted upon them l»y Ismailia,
Khamis, and Bangarameni, who were slaves of Kih>nga-
Longa, wdio was the shive of Abed ])in Salim, of
Zanzibar, sweetly and pleasantly.

Jt'eport of Surgeon T. 11. Pauke, Ainnj Afedicul Dcjtnrtmvht, in mviUml
chiin/e of J'', t'. li- K.ijieiUfion.

Fort Bodo, 8 Fehrmmj, 1888.

Sir, — I have the honour to forward this rei)ort for your information.
In conipliauce with vour orders dated 2J:th Octoborj 1887, 1 remained at
the Manyuema Camp to take char;j;o of invalids and impedimenta left there
on your departure, 28th October, up to the time the relief party arrived,
'25th January, 1888. Of those invalids whom you left at cam)), seven
were sufficiently recovered to send on with Ca|>tain Jephson, 7th Novem-
ber ; those remaining were increased in number by the arrival of Cai)tain
Nelson, his two boys, and two men, 3rd November ; also headman Umari
and nine men, who were found in a starving condition in the bush by
Kihmga-Longa, and brought to camj) by him 9tli Janmiry ; this made a
total of one sick officer and thirty-nine invalids remaining in camj) ; of
this number Captain Nelson and sixteen men left with the relief party.
Twelve men were away on a journey looking for food, therefore remain
at j\buiyuoma Camp, and eleven deaths occurred; this extremely high
mortality will no doubt astonish you, especially as it was entirely due to
starvation, ex('ei)t in two instances only. From the time you left the
Manyuema ('amp until ourde))arture, 2()tli January, the chiefs gave little
or no fooil to either officers or men ; tho.se men who were sufficiently
.strong to do a good day's work, sometimes got as many as ten heads of
corn (Indian) i)er man, but as the working men were not constantly
employcMl, their average ration of corn was about three jter day; tliose
invalids ujiable to work, of whom there were many, received no fooil
from the chiets, and were therefore! obliged to exist on herbs. I{enu'nd)er-
ing the wriitched ami debilitated condition of all these men, both from
privation ai d disease, you will readily untler-staml that the heartless

;srjiaj:ox parkes iuwout.

3«U

troatnicnt of the Muiiyiionm t'liiet's was sufticiciit ti> ciinsc ov(mi a iiiiicli
proator mortality.

Tlic iiK'ii wore Imdly iKniscd, ami tlieir scanty clotliiiifr consisted of
aliout lialf a yard of iiativc barlv-clotii, as tlicy sold tlicir own clotlics for
food : tlicy t'Xjioricnccd not only tlic horrors ol starvation, l)ut wcro
cnu'lly and brutally treated by tiic Manjucnia, who drove them toconnnit
theft by withholdinfr food, and then ■scored their backs with rods, and in
one case sjieared a man to '(ath (Asnia:<i bin Hassan) for stealing.

('ajftain Nelson arrived in a very weak v-onditi<»n, reriuirin;,^ p)od food
and careful treatment. He visited the chiefs, and made them handsome
presents of articles costiiii: about £75, with a view to win their sympathy ;
however, they continued to t;ive little or n ".)od to officers or men : they
saiil that no arrangi'nient had been made for provisioning: Captain Nelson,
and any food they sent to me was entirely of their own jiciierosity, as no
arrangement had been madi- by yon 1 askeil them to let me see the
written agreement between >ou and them, which they did; also another
document written in Arabic characters, which I could not read. In
tli( i agreement with you I saw that they had promised tit provision the
officers and men whom you would h'ave. 1 ajtjtealed to them, and
remonstrated with them, nevertheless they su]tplied less and less food,
until finally they refused to give any on the ])h'a that they had none.
'I'he height of this gene-'osity wonld be reache(| when they would send
two or three cu])s of Indian meal to feed (.'ajttain Nelson, myself and the
boys, until the next donation wonld turn up in six or seven days aoer-
wards. During the last seven weeks we did not receive any food what-
ever from tlie chiefs. Owing to their ri'fnsal to give us food, we were
obliged first to sell our own clothes, and eight rifles lielonging to the
Kx]iedition to juovide ourselves and boys with food. I re])eatedly re-
mindecl Isniaili (chief) of the conversation he had with you in your tent
the night before you left the (aiu]», when he jn'omised to look alter and
care for the officers and men whom you left in camp. Although the
chiefs ha<l no food to supjtly according to their agreement, yet they had
always plenty to sell, their ol»je«'t being to comjiel us to sell the arms and
annnunition for food. 1 send you a comjilete list of effects left in my
charge by Ca])tain .Teithson, 7th November, all of which were correct
when the relief ))arty arrived, with the following exce])tions, viz. : — two
boxes I{emington ammunition, and one rifle, which were stolen by a
Zanzibari (Saraboko), and, I believe, sold to the Manyuema chiefs.

Several attemjtts were made to steal the arms, boxes, &e. ; on the night of
November 7th, the hut in which the baggagi' was stored was set on fire
with a view to taking I'verything with a rush in the confusion caused by
tlie fire: however, their (Iream was frustrated, as Cajttain Nelson, who
was ever awake saw the blaze, and gave the alarm just in time for our-
selves and our boys to put out the fire before it got to the baggage.
1 then had the tents i>itched according to your directions, not being able
to do so earlier, as I had no assistance. All the rifles, ammunition,
boxes, &o., were jmcked in the tents, one of which was occupied by
Captain Nelson, and the other by myself. Every effort was made to
prevent things being stolen ; nevertheless, even Ca]»tain Nelson's blankets
were taken by a thief who got under the tent from behind. On another
occasion I heard a noise at my ti'ut-door, and, jum])ingout of bed (luickly,
I found a box of annnunition ten yards off, which had just been taken
out of my tent. The thief escaped in the dark.

(^n the night of January Dtli, I heanl a noise outside my tent, and,
susjuvting a thief, I crejyf out noisele.<.sly to the back, where 1 caught
"Camaroni."' a Zanzibari, in the act of stealing a rifle through a hole
which he 1 ad cut in the tent for this offence. Life at the Manyuema Camp

1888.
Kol). 8.

Fort liodo.

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IN DAIiKEtiT AFJUCA.

I'lii

1888.
Ffb. 8.

Fort Bodo

was almost intolcrablo. Apart from starvation, tlio people, tlipi'r manner
and snrnmndin^s, were the lowest order, and, owinpj to the mounds of
fecal matter and decomposing:; vegetation wliieli were allowed to collect
on the paths and close to their dwellings, the place was a hothed of
disease, ('aptain Nelson was confined to his hod from sickness for over
two months, and I got hiood-poisoning, followed hy erysipelas, which
kept me in bed for live weeks. iJnring our illness the chiefs paid us
freiiuent visits, but always with a view to covet something which they
saw in our tents. Their avarice was unbounded, and they made agree-
ments one day only to be broken the next. After the arrival of Kilonga-
Longa and his force of al)out 401). including women, children, and slaves,
food became really scarce, therefore the Manyuema were obliged to send
out large caravans to bring lU foo . Twelve Zan/.il)aris who are absent
a('cniiij)anied these caravans in search of food, and had not returned when
1 left the camp with the rclii '" party. Starvation was so great just before
we left that the native slaves seized one of their comrades, who had gone
some distance from the camp to draw water, cut him in pieces, and
ate him.

In conclusion, I may mention that Captain Nelson and myself did
everything we could to i)reserve a good feeling with the Manyuema
chiefs and people, and we parted on friendly terms.

T. H. Parke.
(Sunicon A. M. I).)
To H. M. Stanley, Esq.,
Commaiidinij E. P.li. Kxj>i-'ditniii.

! . : . t'

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The coiitra.st l)etween tlie .sadlv-worn men who
reai.'hed us from that liot-bed of .sutfering' at Ipoto and
our l)eautifully sleek and glossy men wlio had reached
the All)ert was most marked. Tlieir flesh was wasted,
their muscles had ])ecome shrivelled, their sinews were
slirunk, and their distinctive and peculiar individualities
seemed to have altogether vanished until it had become
a ditH(^ult matter to recognise them.

On th(? 12th of February [lieutenant Stairs and liis
column appeared with every section of tlie l)oat in good
order. He had l)een a))sent twenty-five days, and his
mission had ])een ])erf()rnied witli a sacred regard to liis
instructions and without a single Haw.

The evening of that date was reniarkal)le foi* a dis-
cussion l)etween tJie head-men and oursehes as to our
future steps. I discovered that all the lieadmen were
unanimous for proceeding to the Nyan/a to launch
the ])oat and .sean^h for news of Emin. My desire was
e(j[ually great to obtain news of the Pasha ; nevertheless,
I think very little was re<pnred to induce me to
abandon the search for the Pasha to obtain news of

'ir manner
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to col loot
hothofl of
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ide ii^Toc-
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Li'e !il)si'nt
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list before
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ieces, and

iiyself di(i
lanyueina

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me to
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SEARCH FOR PAtHIA AXD BARTTELOT ARRAXdED. HiVS

]\Iajor Bai'ltelot, Imt otticers and men were alike unani-
mous in their demand that we slio Id resolve the fate of
Emin Pasha. A compromise was finally effected. It was
determined tliat couriers sliould he sent with our
letters to Major Barttelot, with a map of our route and
such remarks as would he of practical use to him. It
was also decided that Lieutenant Stairs, after t\;o (hiys'
rest, should escort these couriers as far as U«j;ai'r()wwa's,
and see them safely across the river, and that on return-
ing he should escort the convalescents, wlio, t(W) feeble to
march, had ])een housed in that settlement on the 18th
Septemher ; that in order that Lieutenant Stairs should
" participate in the honour of ])eing present at the relief
of Emin Pasha," we should wait for him until the 2otli
of IVIarch. Meantime we should <'oiitiiiue th'^ work of
enlarging our domain for corn and heaii j)lanting, to
prevent any scarcity of food while engaged in the
forest.

The distance between Fort Bodo and Tpoto was
seventy-nine miles,* or 158 miles the round journey,
which had occupied Lieutenant Stairs twenty-five <lays,
at the average of six and one-third miles per day, hut
he had reached Ipoto within seven days, and Jephson
and Uledi liad accomplished the -distance in the same
time, that is, at an average rate of travel of a little over
eleven miles per day. Now, as LTgarrowwa was 104
miles beyond Ipoto, or 18^3 miles from Fort Bodo, it
was estimated that the journey of 366 miles which
Stairs was now a])out to undertake might be performed
within thirty-four days, or at the rate of ten and three
(juarter miles per 'day. This would be magnificent
travelling, especially in the forest, but as various (nrcuni-
stanches might protract the period, it was agreed that if
we moved towards the Nyanza on tiie 25tli Marcili, and
as the carriage of the boat would necessitate short staoes,
we should travel slowly, that he might have the opjjor-
tunity of overtaking us.

On the morning of the 16th February, at muster, it
was proclaimed that twenty first-class volunteers were
■* Seventy-nine miles one way, and eighty-four miles by another way.

ir','

IfiSH.
F.'b. l-.>.

Fort BoJo.

iii

i:l

3«4

JN D A It K F.ST A Fine A.

11 >

. I m

IHHH.
Fel». 1»).

F(.rt Botlo,

r I

required to convey (Hir letters to Major Barttelot, at
£10 reward for eacli iiiaii if tliev su('(;eeded in reacliini";
liim, because, said 1, ''You lias'e all comliined to demand
that we should find the Pasha first. It is well. I5ut I
feel as anxious ahout the Major as J do about the Pasha.
We must find hoth. You who remember what we
suffered must feel what the Major and his friends feel,
in those horrible stretches of unpeopled woods, having;
no idea where they are goin<»' or what is waiting for
them. You know how grateful we should have been,
had we met anvl)odv who could have warned us of the
hunger and misery we should meet. Therefore every
man who volunteers must be acknowledged as the fittest
for this noble work bv evervone here. AEaster Stairs,
whom you all know as a man who is never tired, and
ne\er says ' enough ' when there is something to be done,
will show vou the road as far as LJgarrowwa's, he will
see that vou are ferried over with food, and car*:rido:es
sufficient, and when you leave, you must race along
our old road, which you (cannot lose, like men running
for a big prize. These letters must be put into the
hands of the Major, that he and your brothers may l)e
saved. Where are these fifty dollar men ? "

Uf course at such times the Zanzibaris are easily
roused to enthusiasm, and everv man considers himself a
hero. Over fifty men came to the front challengirig any
one to say aught against their manliness or courage, but
they lad to undergo a sear(ihing (;riticism and bantering
review from their fellows and officers, their (courage,
powers of endurance, activity, dispositions, strength,
soundness of mind and body were (questioned, but at last
twenty men satisfactory to CV)mm'inder and people
received rations, and they were specially enrolled among
the men of merit who for distinguished service were to
be rewarded with varying sums of money, in addition to
their pay, on reaching Zanzil)ar. Lieutenant Stairs left
for Ipoto and Ugarrowwa's at 9 o'clock with fowls, goats,
corn, and plantain flour rations for the long journey.

On the 18th my left arm, which had been very painful
for four days previously, developed a large glandular

,1^

telot, ut
reacliiim-
(leniund
But I
e Puslia.
vliat we
lids feel,
, luivino
ting for
ve heen,
IS of the
e every
le fittest
r Stairs,
•ed, and
be done,
he will
r^ridi^es
e alon^r
runninii'
nto the
may be

3 easily
imselfa
ing any
ige, l)ut
Altering
;ourage,
rength,
b at last
people
among
were to
ition to
lirs left
, goats,
ley.

painful
mdular

tttf

iiHl

(lit -I

ifll

i J

I 'I

: : .

^ l^'l

!li ! ; ^

ii ^

ILLNESS OF MYSELF AM) VAPTAIS XKLSOX. iU'u

s\vi'llin.ii', wliicli niir siunvon sai'l .vould ])rovt' to Ik- an
abscess.

The tollowin^' is taken from my «liai'v : —

Fcfn'Htfri/ \\)tli to M<n-r/i \:\tli. On Sunday ni^ulit. tlie
IDtli, I was attacked with intlannnation ot* tlie stomach,
whicii lias heen caUed ])y Dr. l*ai'ke snli-a«'Ute t^astritis,
ot' so severe a character that duriiiii tlie first week I had
onlv a confused recollection of «ii'eat j)ain in the arm and
stomach, and ueneral uselessness. I )r. Parke has liceii
most assiduous in his a[)pli<-ation to my needs, and
uentle as a woman in his miidstrations. Koioncein my
life every soul around ine was at my service, and I found
mvself an object of universal solicitude niuht and dav.
My faithful friends, l*arke and .lephson. waited, and
watched, and served. Poor Nelson was himself a victim
to ill-health, fevers, debility, eruptions and ulcers, the
ert'ects of his terrible agcuiy at Starvation Cam]), but he
would c(mie, sometimes tottei'inu' weakly, to express his
sympathy. In the afternoons the Doctor would permit
the headmen to visit me, to convey to the anxious
Zanzil>aris their personal opinions and views of my case.
Durinu' most of these twentv-three days I have been
under the influence of morphia, and the time has passed
in unconsinousness. But 1 am now slowly recovering;.
Two days ao() the abscess, which had become very laroe,
was piereed, and I am relieved of that pain. Meanwliile
my daily diet has consisted of a pint of milk — thanks to
the Baleooa cow — mixed with water. I am tliei'efore so
feeble as to be scarcely able to move.

During my illness I have to regret the loss of two
good men, Sarmini and Kamwaiya. who have been killed
with arrows, and one of the headmen has been severely
wounded. This occurred durinii' a ])atrollinL!: tour as far
as the Ihuru, fourteen geographical miles due ."vtl.
from here. Uledi and a party has discovered the ii.unts
of the dwarfs and taller aborigines who rob ourj^lantain
groves to be at Alesse and Nderi, fourteen geographical
miles east.

I find that Uledi has eaptured a Queen of the
Pigmies, who is the wife of the Chief of Indekaru. She

Win

IHHH.
I'd.. 18.

Fort U(k1o

ft!!'

II I'iii

il iJ

368

AV DARKEST AFRICA.

1888. was brouolit in to ])e seen ])y me with tlu'ee lings ot
Feb. 19. poii^-i^ej ii-oij around her neek, the ends of which were
coiled like a watch spring. Three iron rings were
suspended to each ear. She is of a light l)rown com-
plexion, with broad round face, large eyes, and small hut
full lips. She had a quiet modest demeanour, though
her dress was but a narrow fork clout of Ijark cloth.

III

*' 1

■ i

i' "

(

i 1 ':

•■ I

1 \

;

1 r

i -4-

THE QIKKN OK TIIK 1)WAKF8.

Her height is aljout four feet four inches, and her age
may be nineteen or twenty. I notice when her arms
are held against tlie lii>:ht, a whitv-brown fell on tliem.
Her skin has not that silky smoothness of touch comn^on
to the Zanzibaris, but altogether she is a very pleasing
little creature.

Mairii VM to April 1.9A— By the 25tli I was well

'I i

OUR FIELDS OF CO UN.

'Am

enough to })e al)le to move {il)out a few luiiidred vards
at a time. Mv arm was still stiff" and I was exceedinfrlv
feeble. Nelson has recovered somewhat fr(^m his
successive fits of illness. During my convalescence I
liave been supported each afternoon to the centre of a
lofty colonnade of trees, through which our road to the
Nyanza leads, wdiere in an easy chair I have passed hours
of reading and drowsino;.

It has been a dailv deli<j[lit while helped to mv leafv
arcade to observe the I'apid change In the growth of
the corn in the fields, and to see how we have been
encroaching upon the forest. Oui' cultivable area, after
being cleaned, hoed, and planted, was not long left with
its bare brown face naked. ( )n a certain day it became
green with the young corn blades, it had sprouted by
thousands as though at the woi'd of command. Only
vesterdav, as it were, we smiled to see the tender white
stalk arched for a spring under a slowly rising clod, and
now the clods have been brushed aside, the arched
stalks have sprung upright, and the virgin plants have
unfolded their tendei* green crests. Day by day it has
been a wonder how the corn has thriven and grown,
with what vioour the stalks have thickened, enlarged in
leaf, and deepened in green. Side by side in due rank
and order they have risen, the blades have extended
towards one another in loving embrace, until the whole
has beccmie a solid square field of corn, the murnmr of
which is like the distant wash of a languid sea over a
pebldy beach.

This is the music to which T listen devoutly, while my
medical friend sits not far off on the watch, and sentries
stand still at each end of the avenue (m guard. A
gentle breeze blows over the forest an<l breathes upon'
the col'u, causing a universal shiver and motion through-
out, an«l. I :'t watching the corn tops sway and nod, and
salute each other, with the l)eautiful grace and sweet
undertones of many wavelets, until drowsiness over-
comes me and seals my senses, and sleep bears me to
the region of fantasy. As the sun appears low in the
west, and lights the underwood horizontally with mellow

VOL. I. Y

1HH8.
.Miiic.h 25.

Fort Bodo.

■ 1*1 i

4«t'

{4w

I '

370

IN DAliKEtiT AFRICA.

'%M ■

riiiW'

• I?/

1888. light, niy kind doctor assists me to my feet and props
March L'5. ^^^ ^^ j wend to tlic F(jrt, mv corn with dancin*'- motion

Fort Bodo. i • 1 • 1 r " i' 11

and wavmo' ^rac^e luddinoj me larewell.

In the warm teeming' soil the ccn'n has grown apace
until it has reached a prodigious height, tall as the
underwood of the forest. Only a xcw weeks jigo ]
searched amid the clods for a sign of sprouting • a little
later and i might still have seen a scampering mouse ; a
few days ago it was breast high ; to-day I look up and 1
can s(;arcely touch the point of a rapier-like blade with a
five-foot staff, and a troop of elephants might stand
underneath undetected. It has alreadv fl(jwered ; the
ears, great and swelling Iving snug in their manifohl
sheaths, give {)i'omise o " an abunchmt harvest, and 1 glow
with [)leasure at the thought that, while absent, there
need be no anxiety about the future.

] am resolve*! to-moi'row to make a move towards the
Nvanza with the boat. This is the fortv-sixth day oi"
Stairs' absence. I had sent twenty couriers — one of
wdiom returned later -to Major Barttelot. Stairs Mid
iiis pei'sonal attendants numbered seven. 1 shall leave
forty-nine in fort ; inclusive of Nelson there will be
12(1 men left to escort the boat to the Nyan/a. Total,
201 of advance column remaining out of .'389, ex-
clusive of such convalescents as may be obtained at
Uii'arrowwa's.

Tippa-Tib has evidently been faithless, and the Major
is therefore working the double stages, some hundreds of
miles behind ; the nineteen couriers are spee<ling towards
him, and are proba])ly opposite the Nepoko at this date,
and Stairs has found so many men yet ci'ippled with
ulcers that lie is unaltle to travel fnst. With 120 men
1 attempt the relief of Emin Paslia the second time. The
iiarrisou consists of all those wlio suffer from del)ilitv,
aiui3niia who were fellow-sufferers with Nelson at
Starvation ( 'am]) and leg sores, some of which are
perfectly incurable.

'I'lie labour performed about the fort is extensive.
Nelson has an im[)regnable place. The fields of corn
and beans are thriving, and of the latter I have enjoyed

LIFE AT FORT DODO.

871

,'i first dish to-day. The plantain onjvos appear to ])e
inexliaustihle.

Our l>road roads exten«l alumt half a mile each way.
Ten scouts patrol the plantations every niorninsi;, that
the mischievous pigmies may not destioy the supplies
of the o'arrison, and that no sudden onsets of natives
may l)e made up(^n the field hands while at work.

Surgeon Parke accompanies us to the Nyanza to-
morrow according to his own earnest recjuest. Though
his place is in the fort with the invalids, there are none

March -J.'..
Fort liodo.

WITHIN FOUT BODO.

who require greater attention than can he given l>y
Captain Nelson tlirough his hoys, who have been in-
structed in the art of hathing the sores wi loiA)ns of
carliolic acid and water.

Our men on the Sundays have amused themselves
with performing military evolutions after the method
taught by (Jeneral Mafthews at Zanziitar. They are
sucii capital mimics that his very voice and gesture have
hecn faithfully imitated.

liife at Fort I^odo, on the whole, lias not heen un-
l)leasant except for Oaptain Nelson anil mysuf. It is

tin

a n:

•1
1. 1

.11!

I' ">7l

372

IN DARKEST AFIUCA.

1888. true we liave fretted and never ])een free from anxiety
"''^ '■^" respectin<jj tlie wliereal)()uts and fate of our friends. We

tortBodo i^i'^i • ,1 , 111-

nave also been anxious to depart and be doinoj some
thino; towards terminatinu our lalK)urs, but circum-
stances wliieli we cannot control rise constantlv to thwart
our aims. We have therefore striven to employ every
leisure hour towards providino- unstinted supplies of
food, in the hope that fortune will be good enough to
veer round once in our favour, and bring Barttelot and
our friends Jameson, Ward, Troup, and Bonny, with
their little army of men, to Fort Bodo before our second
return from the Nyanza.

CHAPTER XIV

TO THE ALBERT NYANZA A SECOND TIME.

■J-

Difficulties with the steel boat — African forest craft — Splendid capture
of pigmies, and descrij^tion of the same— We cross the Ituri river —
Dr. Parke's delight on leaving the forest — Camp at Besso — Zanzibari
wit — At Nzera-Kum-hill once more — Intercourse with tlie natives —
" Malleju," or the " Bearded One," being first news of Emin — Visit
from chief Mazamboni and his followers— Jephson goes through the
form of friendship with Mazamboni — The medicine men, Nestor and
Murabo — The tribes of the Congo — Visit from chief Gavira — A
Mhuma chief — The Bavira and Wahuma races — The varying African
features— Friendshij) with Mpinga — Gavira and the looking-glass-
Exposed Uzanza — ^^ e reach Kavalli — The chief j)roduces" Malleju's "
letter — Emin's letter — Jephson and Parke convey the steel boat to
the lake — Copy of letter sent by me to Emin through Jejjhson —
Friendly visits from natives.

On the 2nd day of April, 1888, after a drizzly rain had
ceased to fidl, we filed out at noon with a view to at-
tempt a second time to find the Pasha, or to penetrate
the silence around him. We had now our steel boat in
twelve sections, and the stem and stern being rather
l)eamy we discovered very soon th ': a good deal of
cutting with axes and hill -hooks was required to permit
them to pass between the trees. The caravan in single
file, laden with boxes, bales, and baggage, would find no
difficulty : the narrower sections two feet wide passed
through without trou])le. but the plough-shaped stem
and stern pieces soon became jammed between two
colossal trees which compelled a retreat and a detour
through the bush, and tliis could not be effected without
clearing a passage. It was scum evident that our sec<md
trip to the Nyanza through the forest would consume
S(mie days.

The advance guard scanning the track, and fullv

1888.
April 2.

Forct.

i It

[':r

874

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

1. ,

1 ,f:

In.k-
mwiini

1888. lessoned in all the crooked ways and wiles of the pi<»^mies
April 4. .j^jj^^ ahoi'igines, pic^ked up many a eleverly-hidden skewer
from the path. At some points they were freely planted
under an o(hl leaf or two of phryniuni, or at the l)ase of
a loir, over whi(^h, as over a stile, a wayfarer miyht
stride and plant his foot deep into a harbed skewer well
smeared with dark poison. But we were too learned
now in the art of African forestcraft, and tlie natives
were not so skilled in the invention of expedients as to
produce new styles of molestation and annoyance.

The dwarfs' villaoe at the crossinij;- was our next restino-
place, and Indt'-mwani was reached on the 4th. The next
day we moved to another dwarfs' village, and in the
neighbouring plantain grove Saat Tato and a few friends,
while collecting a few of the fruit, made a splendid
capture of pigmies. We had four women and a boy,
and in them I saw two distinct types. One evidently
belonoed to that same race described as the Akka, with
small, cunning, monkey eyes, close, and deeply set. The
four others possessed large, round eyes, full and pro-
minent, broad round foreheads and round faces, small
hands and feet, with slight prognathy of jaws, figures
well formed, though diminutive, and of a l)ricky com-
plexion. " Partial roast coti'ee," " chocolate," " cocoa,"
and " c((fi' (lit laif," are terms that do not describe the
colour correctly, but the common red clay brick when
half baked would correspond best in colour to that of the
complexion of these little people. 8aat Tato reported
that there were al)out twenty of them stealing plantains
which belonged to the natives of Indepuya, who were
probably deterred from defending their property by the
rumour of our presence in the woods. The monkey-
eyed woman had a remarkable pair of mischievous orbs,
protruding lips overhanging her chin, a prominent
aluhmien, narrow, flat chest, sh)ping shoulders, long-
arms, feet turned greatly inwai'ds and very short lower
legs, as being fitly characteristic of the link hmg sought
between the average modern humanity and its Darwinian
progenitors, and certainly deserving of being classed as
an extremely low, degraded, almost a bestial type of a

fi r ]

\'H:'^

CAI'TlltK OF WAMIHITTI PKiMIES.

IikIo-
niwniii.

liuniaii Itcini^'. ( )no of tlic others was a woman evidently issr
a niotlier, tliouuli slie conM not liaxc seen lier seventeentli '^j""'' ^
year. No f'anlt conld l>e found in the pro[)ortion of j^ny
one meni))er ; her e(miplexion was hri^ht and healthy ;
her eyes were brilliant, round, and lar^e ; her upper lip had
the peculiar cut of that of the Wanihutti noticeahle in the
woman at llgarrowwas, and the chief's wife of indekaru,
which is the upper edge curving upward with a shaij)
angle and dro[)ping perpendicularly, r<'send»ling greatly
a clean up and down <-ut with a <'url up of the skin as
thouu'li it had contracted somewhat. 1 believe this to
he as marked a feature of the \Vand)utti as the full
nether lip is said to he characteiisti(; of the Austrian.
The colour of the lips was j)iidvish. 1'he hands were
small, fingers delicate and long, hut skinny and puckei'ed,
the feet measured seven inches and her height was four
feet four inches.

So perfect were the proportions of this girl-mothei'
that she appeared at first to he l>ut an undci-sized
W(mian, her low stature being but the result of [)rema-
ture sexual intei-course or some other accidental circum-
stance, ])ut when we placed s<mie of our Zanzibar b(>ys
of" fifteen and sixteen years old by her side, and finally
placed a w<mian of the agricultural aborigines near iiej-,
it was clear to everyone that these small creatures were
a distinct race.

Three hours beyond this great Mbutti village wc
reached Bai'va-Kunva amid a drizzlv rain.

On the Hth we reached Indepessu, and two (hiys later
we travelle<l fnnn the base of Pisgah, along an easterly
path, a new track which led us through the little villages
of Mande to the Ituri river. The natives had all fled
from Mande and the slopes of risgali across the river
with their movable property, and the men were awaiting
events on the left baidv, confident that they were beyond
reach. As we emerged into view on the right bank I
was ([uite struck with the light brown mass the warriors
made aoaiust the blackish <>reen of the veuetatioii behind
them. JIad they been of the colour of the /.inzibrcris
they would have formed an almost black mass, but they

wv-

^i-\

BiM

0( ')

JN DARKEHT AFRICA.

»!<!'

! I

I :i :i

Mande.

i8«8. ro.seiiil)lL'(l in colinir the o^hreous clay hanks of tliis river.
Aprils. 7^1, (3y t^]i(,t ii fe^v arrows amongst us across tlie 150 yards
wide stream ; some fell short and others hurtled harm-
lessly l»v us several yards. In our turn we replied and
a general scamper occurred, rsinety minutes later the
Expedition was across the Ituri ])y means of the hoat.
The vanguard picked up a ten-pound packet of clean
native salt which had been dropped by the natives in
their Hight. Salt was a condiment greatly needed, and
we were greatly rejoiced at the prize. We were now in
the territory of the Bakuba, near the clearing of Kande-
kore, whi(;h was one of the richest clearings in the forest
of the Upper Congo basin. On the edge of the bank
we were ;{,000 feet al)ove the sea.

Three-and-a-half hours' march from the Ituri, we
issued out of the forest, and again the change from
perpetual twilight to brilliant sunlight, and a ])lue sky
was astonishing, and we all smiled to witness its effects
on the ner\'es of (nir gentle friend and companion, the
first son of Erin who had ever viewed the grass lands
of these reoions. This was the 28i)th dav of l)r. Parke's
forest life, and the effect of this sudden emergence out
of the doleful shades in view of this enlarged view from
the green earth to the shining and glowing concave of
Heaven caused him to (juiver with delight. Deep
draughts of (;hampagne could not have painted his
cheeks w^th a deeper hue than did this exhilarating
prospect which now met him.

On the road just l)ef(n-e leaving the bush we passed a
place where an elephant spear had fallen to the ground,
and buried itself so deep that three men were una]>le to
heave it up. Such a force, we argued, would have slain
an elephant on the instant.

While sketching I'isoah Mountain in the afternoon
from our first camp in the pasture land, I o])served a
cloud approaching it from the N.W., and all the forest
beyond was shaded by its deep shadows, while the
rolling plains still basked in hot sunshine. Presently
another (;loud from the S.H appeared round the southern
extremity of ^Iazam])oni's range, and as it advanced,

ri I

THE VILLAGE OF II ESSE.

I i

spread over the hlue sky, uiid ])ef'ame merged witli the
cloud over the forest, and then rain fell.

At an altitude of ;i,200 feet above the sea the village
of Besse is situated, seven hours' niareh from the ituri.
Though it was yet early forenoon we camped, the
abundance of good ripe l)ananas, corn, fowls, sugar-cane,
and l)anana wine being very tempting, and the distance
to other villages east ])eing unknown. Quite an active
skirmish soon o(!curred while we were enyaoed making
ready our (quarters. Fetteh, the sole interpreter to the
tribes of the plains, was grievously wounded over the
stomach. The Babesse' attempted various means to
molest us as the long grass favoured them, but by post-
ing sharpshooters in the native lookouts in the trees
the knowledge that their tactics were supervised soon
demoralised them.

We had some speech by means of a native of Uganchi
with one of these natives, who amoni"- his remarks
said, " We are quite assured that you ])lack men are
creatures like ourselves, but what of those white chiets
of yours ? Whence (h) they come { "

" Oh," our man replied, with wonderful facility for
fraudful speech, " their faces change with the birth of
each moon, when the moon is getting full their colour
is dark like our own. They are diti'erent from us, as
they came from above originally."

" Ah, true, it must be so," responded the astonished
native, as he brought his hand up to his mouth fnmi
politeness, to cover the mouth that expanded with
surprise.

The more we understjind the lanouage of these natives,
the more we are struck with the identitv of a common
origin. How could such as these people have ever heard
of such a thing as wit. I heard one native sav to a
Zanzibari who had met more than his match when he
burst out so impatiently at one who had staggered
against him,

" Such a fool as thou wast surely never seen else-
where 1 "

To which the native replied, with a benevolent smile,

lft88.
April 12.

Bess6.

i-iii:

: Aft
1,

1^'

t
■ 'i

£.. :[

mi4

lii

11'

!ii}i

'«

,!'r

1888.
April 12.

I3ess(-.

878

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

" Ay, it is my lord, who is the sok' posses.sor of
wisdom."

"All, Itiit vou are wickedness itself" ([)ersonified).

" ' must not deny it, for all goodness is with thee."'
IS a common reply amony' a certain ehiss of white
lolks when one is accused of hein^ naughty, to reply to
the accuser that he is a jjjentleman, hut it must he
admitted that the African replv is not inferior in
politeness.

A little east of Bes.'-e we lost the native track, and
were ohlioed to strike across country, steering; sti'aii>lit
for lindussuma Peak wliich now henan to lift itself into
view, over the swells of ^rass-land that spread in yreat
waves towards its foot. The sun was fearfully liot, and
as the march was mainly throunh tall yrass, we were
irreatlv fatigued. In the afternoon we reached a wooded
hollow near a pellucid cool stream, wliich had its l)irtli-
place somewhere among the slopes of Undussuma lvani>e
now distant alxmt five miles.

On the 14th, after a march of six hours, we were
camped on the spnr of Nzera Kimi hill, and l)ef()re us
was the same scene wdiich on the lOth and 11th oi
Decemher witnessed our strupjfrles for mastery with
Mazamhoni and his tribe. So far our expeiiences on
this journey were very ditlerent. We saw no leaping
exultiuii' warriors, nor heard a sinoie menace or war-crv :
but, as we intended to halt here a day, it was necessary
to know what to exi)ect, and we despat(;lied our Alganda
interpreter to hail the natives, who were seated afar otf
on the hilltops looking down upon us. At 5 p.m. after
several patient efforts, they were induced to descend
and approach, and they finally entered our camp. The
process of estal)lishing a friendship then was easy. We
could look into one another's faces, and read as in a
book what each thought of the other, AVe mutually
exchange*! views, wherein they learned that we only
needed a free passage to the Lake unmolested, that we
had not appeared as enemies, but strangers seeking a
halting-place for the night, to pursue our road the next
day without disturbance. They pleaded, as an excuse

!'!i ,:

MALLK.IV;' on TIIK '' HK.UtDKD OA'AV

.S71)

Umlus-
sumn.

for tlu'ir foniioi- lu'luivionr, tlmt tlicy wow Mssurcd \\v i8si«.
were Warn Sura (soldiers of Kahlta lloua) who iH-riodi- ^i""'' i**
callv visited tlioir coiintrv, devastated tlieir land, and
carried off their cattle.

When we were ])oth convinced that friendship was
|)ossil)le, that our former niisunderstandin.L'' should not
interfere with our future relations, they heard the
mystery of our presence explained, that we were only
travelling' to discover a white cliief, who years aLio was
reported to he somewiiere near the sea of I'nyoro. Had
they evei' heard of sucli a man (

'I'hey answered eagerly, " Al)out two moons after you
passed us — when you came from the Nyanza — a white
man called ' Mdllijit,' or the Jii'tirdcd One, readied
Katonza's in a ])in; canoe, all of iron.

" Mother! however could she float ; and in the middle
of it there rose a tall Mack tree, and out of it came
smoke and sparks of fire, and there were many many
strange people aboard, and thei'e were ^oats running'
ahout as in a village s(|uare, and fowls in hoxes with
bars, and we heard the cocks crow as merrily as they do
among our millet. A/dl/tju with a deep deep voice
asked alxmt you — his brothers' What Katonza said to
him we do not know, but MdUcjii went away in the big
ir(m canoe, which sent as nuich smoke up into the air as
though she was on fire. Have no doubt you will find
him soon ; Mazaml)()ni shall send his runners to the
Lake, and bv to-morrow's sunset Katonza shall be told
of the arrival of Mttlh'jtCs brother."

This was the first news we had heard of Emin I'aslia,
and it was with the view of this news spreading abroad,
and for preparing the natives for the ii'ruption of
strangers out of the unknown west, that 1 had sent
couriers from Zanzibar in February, 1887. Had Kmin,
who expected us December ir)th, l)ut taken the trouble
to have sent his steamers a nine-hours' steaming
distance from his station of Mswa, we slundd have met
with his people December 14th, been spared five days'
fighting, a four months' loss of time, and on or about
the 15th of March I should have been within the pali-

•lir

,i4i.;

\ .

Vm<.

I'll

|1 .

i I

Pli'.

,1 ,t

880

J\ DAllKKST AFIUCA.

Uniliitt
suinii,

iMHH. sudcs of Vainlmya in tinic to save Barttclot from his
April 1 4. ji^sassiii, .lamcson tVom l»is fatal fever au.i-k, Troup fioni
tlio necessity of l>ein<^ invalided lionu', ^\ ard from his
wholly useless missi(>n to St. Paul de I^oanda, and Mr.
I5onnv fi'oni davs of distress at Hanalva.

The ne.xt (hiy was a severe one for me. All the
talkini; was levelled at me, and I was imprisone*! in mv
chair from dawn to dusk Ity crowils of liavira ani'i-
culturists and Wahuma she{)her(ls and herdsmen, chiefs
ami slaves, princes and peasants, warriors and women.
It was ini{)olitic to stir from the close circle which the
combined oli,uarchy and democracy of I'ndussuma had
formed around me. What refreshments were taken
were handed to me over the heads of noh'es and serfs
five deep. My chair was in the centre, three undtrella
l>earers relieved one another — the sun ran his course
from east to west ; it olowed at noon hours with the
intense heat known in torrid deserts, from three to five
it scorched my l)ack, then it Itecame coolei', l)ut until
the circles broke and were dissolved ])y the approaching'
cold {iccom[)anyini;' the dusk, 1 was a martyr to the
cause of human brotherhood.

At a very early hour Mazam])()ni appeared outside of
the zeriba with an imposinLf retiime of followers. lie
was e.scorted to the middle of the camp with every
mark of respe(;t, officers <»;ra''efully l)owin_i;' their welcome.
Zanzibaris and Soudanese, wlio had chased him and his
leuions over the hills in December, lookini>' as innocent
as though they had never tasted meat and smiling a
summer greeting. Our ])est mats were spread under a
sicklv dwarf tree for the convenience of the auii:ust
guest, ivory horns gave forth mellow blares, reminding
me of the imperial court of the Ramessean autocrat of
Uganda, Usoga, and the island archipelagoes of the
Mctorian Sea. Nothing was (miitted that experience
with a thousand chiefs of dark Africa had tauoht me
was iiecessarv for liu:htiiii»" up a swarthv face with
humour, pleasure, content, and perfect trust. .Mazam-
boni accepted every attention as his by right Divine,
but no smile or word greeted us. Was the man deaf and

CHIEF MA/AMIiOSr VISITS IS.

»«1

diinil) :* Xo ; lie s|)«»k(' lnicHy Mini low to liissult-chict's. jmd
liis satellites roared with lnill voices, as tliou^h 1 iiecMled
an auricular trunn)et to heai-, and the sounds stuiuied
me as though they were run^' with a trip-hammer.

"My friends," said I, " my head will crack if you ^o
on thus ; hesidcs, you know wisdom is precious. Why
should the herd hear State policy f'

"Ah, trulv!" said one sa^c with a heard as whiic as
the father of the Connn(>ns oui^ht to have. Nestor
lowered his voice, and ^liarrulously rehearsed the history
of the land, described the etlect created upon it l>y the
column's a[)proach in J)ecend>er, the hasty councils that
were liehl, and the rash resolution they had adopted,
confessing- that when they heard there were white men
with the stran,u;ers they suspected they were wron<jj
in c,()iitinuin«!; their hostile attitude, l>ut the youthful
warriors had been too im])etuous and overrulecl the
cautious counsels of the ancients of their tribe ; that when
thev had seen us return from the Nvanza and depart in
peace towards the forest, they then knew that the Wara
Sura, as we were believed to be, would never have re-
turned so soon from their own Lake, but would havii
crossed the Semliki to their own country, and then,
when they had heard of MdUcjn, the white chief of the
iron canoe, was seeking for us, they were convinced they
had been all wrono." " But never mind," said we,
" the strant^ers will return fnmi the Kivira (forest),
and we shall make it up with them. If they seek our
friendship they shall have it, and Mazamlxmi's blood
shall minolc with that of their chief; and we shall be
one people, and lo ! you have come, and the di'eams of
our wise men have beccmie real facts. Mazam])oni sits
as a brother l)y the side of the white (-hief ; let us see
the blood mingle, and never a cloud shall come between
you while you are in the land ; the belongings of j\la-
zamboni are yours, his warriors, wives, ehihlren, the
land and all that stands on the face of it are vours.
Have I said well, oh, warriors ? "

" Well and truly you have spoken," murmured the
circles.

18HH.
April IT).

L III! 118-
siiniii.

1 i

'I I

;!i i

It^i

lit :

^%.

I'w.

1888.
April 14.

L'lulii.s-

382

IN DAIih'ESr AFRICA.

'" Sliall Mazcimhoiii be ti son of ' Bulii Maturi ? ' "

"He shall."

" Shall there be true })eace between us and the
strangers V

" Yea," came in an emotion il shout from the mass.

Then the nmtual right hands of my son, Mr, Jephson.
who volunteered to be saeritieed, were clasped crosswise
over the crossed knee-;, the native Professor of Medicine
made a slight incision in his arm until the red blood
dyed it. i\iy Professor of Secret Ritualism caused the
dark red blood of Mazand)oni to well out of the
vein, and as the li(juid of life flowed and dropped over
tiic knees, the incantations were commenced by the saj^e
witii the white l)eard, and as he shook the pebbles i »
the nia^nic ♦•ourd at the ran^e of the peak opposite, and
at the horse-shoe ranue yonder in the plains, and to
eastward and westward of the valley, he delivered his
terrible curses from the summit of Nzera-Kum, and all
men listened unto him with open lips : —

" Cursed is he who ])reaks his pliohted vow.

"Coursed is he who nourisheth secret hate.

'• Cursed is he who turneth his back against his
fi'iend.

" Cursed is he who in the day of war denieth his
bi'(»thor.

"Cursed is he who deviseth evil to his friend whose
blood has become one with his own.

" ^\lay the itch make him loathsome, and the hair of
his head be lost bv the mani>'e ; mav the adder wait for
him by the })ath. and the lion meet him on his way ;
may the leopard in the darkmvss besiege his house, and
his wife when she draweth water from the stream, be
seized ; may the barbed arrow pin his entrails, and the
sharp spear be dyed in his vitals : may sickness waste his
stren^uth, and his days be narrowed with disease ; may
his lindts fail hiiu in the day of battle, and his arms
stitfen with cramps," an«l s(> on, invoking' every evil and
disease most di'ea(led. and the Zanzibari Pi'ot\'ssor of
Secret Kilualisni, somewhat (bnnbfounded at first at
the series of curses delivered so volubly by xSestor,

i !r I

THE MEDICINE MEN, NESTOIi AND MriiAIiO.

383

stiuia.

seized his magic gourd, and shook it at the hills and the isxs.
valley, at the head of Mazand)()ni with awful solemnity ; ^^'"''' ^*-
at Nestor himself, and the awe-struck following around,
and outdid Nestoi', from perverted ambition, l)y frenzy,
voice, and gesture, in harmony with it ; his eyes rolled
wildly, foam came from his lips ; he sunnnoned every
hlight to fall upon the land and its productions, every
damnahle agency in his folkdore to hound j\Iazand»oni
for ever; every dark and p(,tent spirit out of the lindu)
of evil imatiination to torture him in his wakinii' and
sleeping hours, until his actions were so fantastic, his
denunciation so outrageous, his looks so like one
possessed with a demon, that everyone, luitive and
Zanzihari, broke out into uncontrollable lauuhter, which
caused Murabo, our "medicine man," to sober inst-iintly,
and to say in Swahili to us, with a conceited shake of
the head,

"Ay! master, how (h) you like that styic for high
acting i " which reminded me of nothing so much as
Handet out-ranting Laertes.

Mazamboni, though undoubtedly paramount chief of
Undussuma, seems to be governed by an unwritten con-
stitution. His ministers also ai'e his princi|)al kinsmen,
wlio conduct foreign an<l home ])olicy even in his
presence, so that in ail'airs of government his voice is
seldom heard. JMost of the time he sat silent and
reserved — one miuht almost sav inditlerent. Thus this
unso])liisticated African chief has discovered that —
whether from intuition or tividitional custom it is hard
to say — it is best to divide government, if the ])rin-
ciple has been derived from custom, it proves that from
the Albert Nyanza down to the Atlanti*- the thousand
tribes of the ('ongo basin s])ring fi'om one jiai'dit tribe,
nation, or family. The similarity in other customs,
]>hysi()gnomy, and roots of languages, lend additional
j)roofs to substantiate this.

We discovered that tlu' chiefs, as well as the lesser
folk, were ari'ant Iteeears. and too sordid in mind to
recognise a generous act. 'I'hough a ])eace was stremi-
ously sought l)y all, yet the gianting of it seemed to

\\\''

i ■'!!

■n

1888.
April 14.

Undus-
sunia.

384

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

them to })e only n nieuns of ])eiiio; cnriclied with o;ifts
from tlio stranoers. MazamlKmi, even after a long day's
work, could (mly be induced to give more than a calf
and five goats as a return for a ten-guinea rug, a bundle
of brass wire, and ivory horns from the forest. The
chief of Urumangwa and Bwessa, that flourishing settle-
ment which in December
had so astonished us witli
its prosperity, likewise^
thought that he was ex-
ceedingly liberal by en-
dowing us with a kid and
two fowls.

Among our visitors to-
day were Gavira, the chief
of the Eastern Bavira.
who proclaimed from a hill
that the land lay at our
feet when we were return-
ing from the Lake ; and
also a Minima chief, who
wore unblushingly the
fine scarlet cloth of which
we had l)een mulcted in
December to buy peace.
He never offered a return
gift so long deferred.

We discovered that
there w^ere two different
and distinctly differing
races living in this region
in harmony with each
other, one being clearly of
Indo-African origin, possessing exceedingly fine features,
aquiline noses, slender necks, small heads, with a grand
and proud carriage ; an old, old race, possessing splendid
traditions, and ruled by inflexiltle custom which would
admit of no deviation. Though the majority have a
mitty-brown ('om[)le\ion, s(mie even of a rich dark brown,
the purest of their kind resemble ohl ivory in colour, and

ONK OF .■MAZA.MItDNl .S WAUlilUIW.

THE WAIIVMA AM) IIAVIIIA miUKH.

\sr)

Uniliis-
suina.

their skins have a l)Ouiitifiilly soft feel, as of finest satin. i8k8.
These eontine themselves soh'ly to the hreedinu' of cattle, ^\
and are inil>ue(l with a snj)erci!ioiis contempt for the
hoemen, the Bavira, who are strictly agricultural. No
proud dukelin^' in England could regard a pauper with
more pronounceil contempt than the Wahuma })rofess
for the Bavira. Tliev will live in the countrv of the

14.

ivu'a,

but

not in thi'ir villaiics ; thev will exchange

their dairy [)roduce for the urain and ve^etahles of the
hoemen, hut they will never uive their dau,i>hters in
mari'iaue but to a Mhuma horn. Their sons mav ijossess
children ])V Bavira women, hut that is the utmost con-

this 1 discover the true secret of the

cession.

ovv m

varviuii," plivsioiiiiomies, and the explanations in the
variation of facial ty[)es.

We have the true ne^roidal cast of features in che
far-away re<;ions of West Africa, with which this pi'oud
hi^h-caste race could not ])ossibly come in contact duriiiL!,"
many centuries ; we have tlie yirimitive races of the
forest, the Akkas, Wamhutti, Waiwa, and Bushmen, of
which the AVamhutti are by far the handsomest ; have
the Zulus, the Alafitte, Watuta, Wahha, Warundi,
Wanya-lvuanda, semi-I']thio[)ic ; we ha\-e the l^thio[)ic,
slitihtly (h'ui'aded, exce[)t in tlie aristoci'atic families, as
in the Wahuma, oi-, as they are vai-iously calhMl. Waima,
Wachwezi. Wawit^i, and the Wataturu. who repre-
sent two human streams, one cominii' from Ktiiio|)ia
b\' wav of South-lvist ( Jalla into Inxoro and the lii^h
})astoral lake reuions. and the other tlowiiiLi direct south.
The \'ictoria Lake lies betu^'en these sections of superioi'
African humanity.

A Bavira chief complained to me of the hauuhty
fontem[)t with which the Bavii'a were I'cLiai'ded by the
Wahuma, in just such woi'ds as these: "" They call us
hoi'inen, and iau_u,li to scorn the sobei- regularity with
Inch we, tilling the dark soil, li\-e through oin' lives

in honest labour. Thev sweep round on jbrauinc'
excursions, and know no IovimI and fixed home ; they
settle down wherever the\' are tem[)ted (by pasture), and
when there(is trouble) they buihl a house in another sp(

It.

iif

VOL. I.

380

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

1888.
April IG.

Uzanza.

M ;

But to my narrative, as I may deal witli the sul)ject
further in a special chapter. On the HJth, furnished by
Mazamboni with twelve ouides, escorted ))y (iavira and
fifty warriors, accompanied ])y a long line of new friends
behind the rear guard, assisted ])y more than a hundred
carriers, we marched to the territory of Oavira, to the
vilhiii'e where we had rested in the naked hill-villaoe,
after a terrible day of excitement, on tlie 12tli of
December. We were now a peaceful processicm, w^itli
somewdiat of a triumphal character. For at every
village we appeared the warriors came out and hailed
us with friendly greetings, and at Makukuru, the name
of the village which we already knew, the women lu-lu-
lued. Fr<mi this settlement in Uzanza we enjoyed an
extensive view, eml)racing all eastward to the brow of
the high land overlooking the gulf of the Albert Lake
westward as far as Pisgah, six mandies distant north-
ward to the cones of Bcmberri, south Wtird the hills of
the l^alegga rose, a mile off.

The Chief of the J^avira is known as Gavira — an he-
reditary title, though his name is iMpinga. He was a
pleasant little man, but stingy ; and when not engaged
in State councils, talkative. He and his tribe })egged
for friendship similar to that which was estal)lislied with
Mazamboni ; we were only too willing to accede — the
conditions being that he should be hospitable to the
Expedition on its journeys through his country. Having
halted one day at Alazamboni's, it was necessary that we
should do e(|ual honour to (iavira ; and as this place was
only two short marches, or one h)ng march, to the
Nyanza, we agreed.

In the evening, two natives arrived fnmi [\lbiassi, of
the tribe Ba-biassi, chief of the district of Kavalli, which
extended, in a broad strip, down to the Nyanza, who in-
formed me that their chief possessed a small packet,
covered witli dark cloth, for me, which had been given
him by Mpigwn, of Nyanisassi, who had received it from
a white man known to tluMn as MalLju.

We WHM'c sui'roundcd on the next day by hundreds of
friendly people, who seemed unable to gaze sutliciently

fiifc*..'

FRIENDSHIP WITH MPISGA.

8.S7

at us. They therefore phicidly sc^uatted on their
haunches, quietly conteniphiting our movements ; the
younger members were deputed ))y the old to gather
fuel and sweet potatoes, and to Itring millet grain to
camp. For trifling gifts, the Zanziharis o))tained their
most devoted service for huilding their huts, and carry-
ing water and attending to their tires, grinding their
millet grain into flour ; while our men contentedly sat
down, encotiraging them to hard hil)our with a friendly
nod and hland smile, scmie l)it of iron-work, a pinch
of beads, a cowrie or two, or a wristlet of brass wire.
Every man picked up a warm-hearted, and ingenious
brother ; and, excepting in cooking, the natives were
admitted into the privilege of fast friendship.

The chief (lavira was r(jbed, in the afternoon, in
bright scarlet cloth of first-c^ . (juality, and escorted
around the camp, with all honour, by our headmen, who
introduced him to the various messes with high tribute
to his good disposition. He was afterwards shown a
mirror, at which he and his elders expressed extra-
ordinary astonishment and fright. They took the
reflection of their own faces to be a hostile tribe ad-
vancing from the earth towards them, and started to
run to a safer distance ; but instinctively they halted, as
they saw that we did not stir. They then returned on
tip-toe, as if to ask what that sudden vision of black
faces could possibly have been ; for the mirror had
been dropped on its face into the case. In answer
to their mute appeal, it was opened again, and they
gazed at it fixedly. They whispered to one another —
" Whv, the faces resemble our own I " Thev were told
that what they saw was a reflection of their own remark-
ably prepossessing features ; and ^Ipinga, with pride,
blushed darkly at the compliment. Perceiving that he
could be trusted with it without shock to his nerves, it
was put into his hand ; and it was amusing to see how
ipiickly pers«»nal vanity increased ; his elders crowded
around him. and all grouped around and were })leascd to
note how truthfully the mirror reflected each facial
L'haracteristic. " See thai scar — it is just and exact ;

1888.
April 17.

UzaDza.

i ;i

Ai-ril 18

jzuuza.

888

IX DARK EST AFItK'A.

I'^xr^. l)Ut lo I look at your hroad nose, M[)iiiLia; wliy, i*" is
pei'tV'ft ! Ay, ami look at that l>i,u' feather ; it actuallv

waves

is too too woiidei't'iil ! What can it li

made of:* it is like water ; hut it is not soft l»y any
means ; and on the hack it is black. Ah, hut we ha\e
seen a thin,n' to-day that our fathers "never saw, eh :" "

U/anza exposed, and open to every hlast from each
(|uarter of heaven, will he I'eniemhei'ecl for a lon,u' time.
As the sun set, the cold winds ])lew from lakeward, an<l
smote us sorely : we were so accustomed to the e([uahle
temperature of the forest, and so poor in clothing'. One
officer armed himself with his waterproof ; another put
on his ulster ; and still the wind penetrated to the
marrow ; and there was no warmth hut in the snuj"' hee-
hive huts of the Bavira — whither we retired.

Instead of pursuinu' along our first course to the Lake,
we struck north-east to the villaiie of Kavalli, where the
mysterious packet was said to he. The grass was short
cro[)ped hy numerous herds of cattle, and covered every
inch and made it resemhle a lawn, save where the land
dipped down into the miniature canons, whieli had heen
scooped out hy centuries of rain.

s we

traversed the smilinu' land, hailed, and oreeted,

and welcomed, hv the kindly Bavira, we could not forhear
thinking how different all this was from the days when
we drove through noisy hattalions of l^avira, liahiassi,
and Balegga, each urging his neighhours. and whooping
and hallooing every one to our extermination, with the
(piick play of light on crowds of flashing spears, and
yard-long arrows sailing through the air to meet us ; and
now we had 157 Bavira actually in front of the advance
guard, as many heliind the rear guard, while our *.)()
loads had heen distrihuted amonu' voluntarv cari'iei's who
thought it an honour to he porters to the same men whom
they had hounde<l so mercilessly a few months pi'evious.
Soon after the arrival of the now numerous column
hefore the thorny zeriha of Kavalli, the chief, a hand-
S(mie young Mliuma, with I'egular features, tall, slender,
and wondi'rfully composed in manner, appeared, to show

us wliere we miu

cami

nicl

as chose to avail

11^.

II'A' L'EACir K AVAIL I.

8.S<)

Ifi4l

tlionisclvcs of slu'ltor in his villauv ho ar-corded froe por- r^sd.
mission ; ami on l)C'in_n' askod tor the ])acket of }f(illijii, '^'"'' \^'
ho prodncocl it ; and, as ho hancK^d it to mo. said tliat
onlv his two vounsj' men, of all the ('(nmti'v, know that
ho possessed it; anil anxiously asked if ho had not done
an oxcoUent liiinn' in koopin^,' the socrot safe.

c^^'-'-^^^

KAVAI.I.I. ( llli;i' (IF Tin: ll.\-l!IASSI.

Tntvino- the cover, which was of Aniorioan oil-ch>th. I
found the followini>- letter : —

1)i;ar Sii{, —

Uuniours luiviii^- bcoii afloat of wliito iiU'ii liaviiitj; made tlioir
apparition soincwlicro soutli of tliis Lake, I have ronic \w\v in finest of
news. A start to the fnrtliest end of tlie Lake, wliieli 1 eouM reach by

•'';||.:

m m

m ']

1888,
Aia-il 18.

Kavalli's,

il.r:

WIrili !

liii

illiilt

390

7.V DA UK EST AFBICA.

st(>aincr, lias Ix'cn wUliont success, tlie )ieo])lo being greatly afraid of
Ka1)l)a Rcpa |ioo))lo, and tlieir eliiefs being under instructions to conceal
wliatover they know.

To-day, however, has arrived a man from Chief Mpigwa, of Nyamsassi
coiuitry, who tells me that a wife of the said chief has seen you at
Undussuma, her birthplace, and that his chief volunteers to send a letter
of mine to y<m. I seiid, therefore, one of our allies, Chief Mogo, with the
messenger to Chief Mpigwa's, re(iuosting him to send ^[ogo and this
letter, as well as an Ara\)ie one, to you, or to retain Mogo and send the
letter .ahead.

lie jdeased, if this reaches you, to rest where yon are, and to inform me
by letter, or one of your luiojile, of your wishes. I could easily come to
Chief Mj>igwa, and my steamer and boats woidd bring you here. At the
arrival of your letter or man, I shall at once start for Nyamsassi, and
from there we could concert our further designs.

Beware of Kabba Eega's men ! He has expelled Captain Casati.

Bjlieve me, dear Sir, to bo

Yours very faithfully,
(Signed) Dr. Emin.

Tungurn (Lake Albert).*
25/8/b8. 8 P.M.

The letter was translated to our men, upon liearing
which, they became mad with enthusiasm; nor were the
natives of Kavalli less aft'ected, though not with such
boisterous joy, for they perceived that the packet
they had guarded with such jealous care was the cause
of this happiness.

Food poured in gratuitously from many chiefs, and 1
directed Mbiassi to inform the districts around that rt
contribution fi'om each tri])e or section would be gladly
received,

On the 20th, I despatched Mr. Jephson and Surgeon
Parke, with 50 rifles and two native guides of Kavalli,
to convey the steel boat, Advance, down to Lake Albert.
I am informed bv the ouides that Mswa station was
distant two days only, l>y boat sailing along the western
shore. Mr. Jephson was entrusted with the following
letter to Emin Pasha : —

* When, after reaching Zanzibar, I read Emin Pasha's letter to the
Editor of Petermann's ' Mitteilungen ' (see No. 4 of the ' Gotha Geog.
Journal '), dated 25th March, 188S (the same date that the above letter
v.-as written), which concluded with the significant words : *' If Stanley
does not come soon, we are lost," most curious thoughts came into my
mind which the intelligent reader will find no difficulty in guessing
Hap])ily, however, the Pasha kept his own secret until 1 was far away
from Bagamoyo, and I was unable to inquire from him personally what
were his motives for not coming to Kavalli, December 14th, 1887, the
date he expected us; for remaining sih nt two months and a half in his
own stations after that date, and then writing two such letters as the
one above and that to Petermann's Magazine on the same date.

LETTER TO EMIN FASIIA.

3J»l

|ii

I F ' M

Ai>ril 18//-, 1888.

into my luiiids l>y Chief Ml)iiissi, of Kavalli
before yesterday, and it gave us ail great

I)E\R Sir,—

Your letter was put
(on the ])lateau), tiie (hiy
jiieasure.

I sent a long letter to you from Zanzibar by carriers to Upanda,
informing you of my mission and of my itur])ose. Lest you may not
liave received it, I will recapitulate in brief its ])rincii»al contents. It
informed you first that, in conii)liance with instructions from the l{elief
Committee of London, I was leading an Expedition for your relief. Half
of the fund necessary was subscribed by the Egyptian Govermnent, the
other half by a few English friends of yours.

It also informed you that the instructions of the Egyptian Government
were to guide you out of Africa if you were willing to leave Africa; if
not, then I was to leave such anununition as we had brought with us for
you, and you and your people were then to consider yourselves as out of
the service of Egypt, and your pay was to cease upon such notitication
being given by you. If you were willing to leave Africa, then the pay of
yourself, officers and men, was to continue until you had landed in Egyj)t.

It further informed you that you yourself was promoted from liey to
Pasha.

It also informed you that I i)ropo.sed, on account of the hostility of
Uganda, and political reasons, to approach you by way of the Congo, and
make Kavalli my objective point.

I presume you have not received that letter, from the total ignorance
of the natives at Kavalli about you, as they only knew of Mason'.s visit,
which took place ten years ago.

We first arrivetl here after some desperate fighting on the 14th Decem-
ber last. We stayed two days on the shore of the Lake near Kavalli,
iii(|uiring of every native that we could approach if they knew of you, ancl
weie always answered in the negative. As we had left our boat a moiuh's
march behind, we could get no canoe by fair ])urcliase or force, we rcsol ved
to return, obtain our boat, and carry it to the Nyanza. This we have
done, and in the meantime we constructed a little fort fifteen days' march
from here, and stored such goods as we could not carry, and marched
here with our boat for a second trial to relieve you. This time the most
violent natives have received us witii oj)en arms, and escorted us by
hundreds on the way. The country is now ojien for a peaceful march
from Nyamsassi to our fort.

Now I await your decision at Nyamsassi. As it is diifieult to s^ijiply
rations to our peoj)le on the Nyanza ])lain, I hope we shall not have to
wait long for it. On the plateau above there is abundance of foo I and
cattle, but on the lower plain, bordering the Nyanza, the people are
mainly fishermen.

If this letter reaches you before you leave your place, I should advise
you to bring in your steamer and boats, rations sufficient to subsist us
while we await your removal, say about 12,000 or 15,000 lbs. of grain,
millet, or Indian corn, &c., which, if your steamer is of any cai^acity, you
can easily bring.

If you are already resolved on leaving Africa, I would suggest that
you .should bring with you all your cattle, and every native willing to
follow you. Nubar Pasha hojjcd you would bring all your JMakkai'aka,
and leave not one behind if you could help it, as he would retain them
all in the service.

The letters from the Ministry of War, and from Nubar Pasha, which
I bring, will inform you fully of the intention of the Egyi)tian Govern-
ment, and perhaps you had better wait to see them before taking any

1888.
April 18.

Kiivalli's.

•>v K"

au2

IN DARKEST API! If A.

Aj.ril 18.
Kavalli's.

lil i!

action. I siinidy lot yon know britfly altont the intontions of tlie
(lovcniiiunt, tliiit you may tuni the matter over in your mind, aud Ite
enal)lo(l to come to a decision.

I hear you iiaw abundance of rattle with you; throe or four milk
cow.s would bo very grateful to us if you can brinj; them in your steamer
and boats.

I have a number of letters, some books and ma])s for you, and a
packet for Ca|)tain Casati. 1 fear to send them by my boat, lest you
should start from your jilaco uiion some native rumour of our having
arrived here, and you should miss her. Besides, I am not quite sure
that the Iioat will reach you; I therefore keep them until I am assured
they can be placed in your hands safely.

We shall have to forafio far and near for food while we await your
attendance at Nyamsassi, but you may depend ujion it we shall enileavour
to stay hero until we see you.

All with mo join in sending you our best wishes, and are thankful that
you are safe and well.

Believe me, dear Pasha,

Your most obedient servant,
Henuy M. Stan lev.
Commanding Belief Expedition
His Exoollency Emin Pasha.
Governor of Equatorial Provinces, &c., &c., &c.

Durino- our halt at Kavalli several Imiidred natives
from the district.s round about paid us friendly visits,

and the chiefs and elders
tendered their submission to
me. They said the country
was mine, and whatever ni\'
commands miulit he, would
l»e promptly done. By the
ready way food was hrouoht
in, there was no reason to
douht their sinceritv, tliouoh
as yet there was no necessity
to take it too literally. 80
loni"' as we were not starvinu',
nothino' could happen to
disturb the peaceful rela-
tions commenced with ]Ma-
zamboni. A'-cording to my
means each chief received a
present of cloth, beads, cow-

nished me with a cj^uart of
milk daily in a wooden bowl of this jjattern.

ClIAJTER XV.

lankful tliat

THE MEETING WITH EMIX PASHA.

Our camp at Bundi — Mbiassi, the oliief of Kavalli — The Balcppa
pranarit's — Chiefs Katonza and Korrmbi express eontritiou — The
kites at Hadzwa — A note from Je])lison — Eniin, Casati and Je]thsoii
walk into our camp at old Kavalli -Descriptions of Einin Pasha
and Cajitain Casati — Tlie Pasha's Soudanese— < )ur Zanziliaris — The
steamer 7\7/fv//V>' — Raker and the Blue ]Monntaiiis — I )rs. Junker and
Felkin's descriptions of Eniin — Proximity of Kalilia Bcjiu— Eniiii and
the Equatorial Provinces— Dr. .Junker's report of Emin —I discuss
with Emin our future proceeding's— Captain Casati's ])lans Our
camp and provisions at Nsalx- — Kahlta BcLia's treatment of Ci>])tain
Casati and IMohaunned Biri — ]\Ial)ruki gored l»y a butt'alo — Emin
Pasha and his soldiers— My ])ro])ositions to Emin and his answer —
Emin's position — Mahonnnet Achmet — The Congo State — The
Foreign Office despatclies.

Ox the 25tli we departed from Kavalli and camped at
Bundi, at an altitude of 4,900 feet aliove the sea. The
village proper was situated 400 feet higher, on the crest
of one of those ranges of hills which form the dividinu-
line between the Conoo hasin and that of the Nile.
From its folds westerly escaped the first infant streams
which flowed into East Ituri. f)n the othei' side of the
narrow rocky spine issued streams which dropped into
the gulf of the Albert. Our camp was situated on the
very Imjw of the plateau, in full view of a large portion
of the south end of the Albert.

jMbiassi, the hands(mie <'hief of Kavalli. accompanied
us to do the honours of his ti'ibe to his guests. He
commanded the people of J^undi to hurry forward an
ample contribution to the camp, and also despatched
messengers to the redoubtable Komubi. chief of the
Eastern BalejxSfa, vrho seemed t(j be considered bv these
stubborn foes of Kabba Rega as their "Only (General,"

1888.

April 2a
Bunai.

aj>4

y.V DARKEST AFltlCA.

18ftS.
April 'J'>

liuDdi.

with a incssime not to la^' lu'liind in supplyiiio- witli
food a man. who mi<^ht be iiidiiccd to lend liis aid in
puiiisiniio' Kahlta Ho^a some (hiy. .Mhiassi, commonly
callcMl Kavalli l>y ins pt'opjc. aftci- liis district, was a
diplomat.

(hi the 'JOth we descended the phiteau slope once
more in '1 hours 45 minutes and at the foot of it we
were ([uartered in the Bale«i<ia village of Badzwa, li,;{00
feet l»elow Bundi camp. The Baleo^ia had decamped,
but as it was Kavalli's pro})erty, he assumed charge, and
distributed corn from its (granaries, accordin^^' to the
needs of our united foUowers, sufficient for tive chiys'
rations.

^Messen^ers from lvat(mza, the chief who liad declined
our friendship on Decendjer 14th. who had refused our
proffered ^ifts, who had sent his men to throw arrows
into our bivouac of the Kith, and murdered our two
sick men, came to say that he was '" dyinu- " to see me.
He had now heard that Mazand>oni, (iavira, Kavalli,
and manv others were hand-and-<4love with the strangers
who had humbly begged a drink of water from his
people, and he had hastened to make reparation, like
Shiniei the Benjamite. Before I could frame an answer,
stalwart Komubi, the "only general." had descended
from the Balegga Hills with a white cow, several goats,
and bundles of sweet potatoes, besides many jars of
potent beer. It was Komubi and his stubborn fellows
who had clung to the rear guard on the l-'Uh December
with such persistency, and had attempted a night
attack. lie now frankly came to express contrition and
sorrow that he had mistaken us for Kab})a Rega's
bandits, and to surrender his country wholly into my
liands, and his life, if I so wished it. With this bold
chieftain we made friends (]uickly enough, and after a
lengthy interview parted. To Katonza we replied that
we would think of his message.

I now turn to the diarv form.

Amjast '17th. — Halt at Badzwa. The kites are very
bold in this neighlxmrhood. Seeing their daring, we
amused ourselves with putting pieces of meat on the

NOTE liKi'ElVED t'liOM JKl'/lsoX.

JiM')

roof of a hut within arm's length of a iiiaii standing l>y, i8sh.
und each tinit' the kite siicceech'd in escHy)inf^ with tlie -^f'' -'"•
meat, as the )>ird, sailinu and wheelin^^ round tlie spot,
seemed to know when tlie attention was rehixed, a"d
that moment droppetl plump U[)on the meat. an«l sa
away with it fast ^nipped before the outstretched lu.
could seize him.

Our hunter, " Tiiree o'clock." went out, and returne<l
with the meat of a tine kudu he hatl shot.

A/'t'il '2Hf/i. — Halt. Wadi Mahruki, another hunter,
went out this mornin<i; to compete at game-huntin*^ with
" Three o'clock," and in the afternoon he and his followers
l>rou<i;ht throe young roan antelope.

April 2dt/t. — At 8 A.M., as we were about to hreak
camp to march to the Lake, a native guide appeared witli
a note fnmi Jephson, (hited April li.Mrd, which stated
that he had safely reached Mswa, a station of Emin
Pasha's, and that messengers had been despatched by
the C'(miman(hint, Shukri Agha, to apprise Emin Pasha
of our appearance cm the lake. A ])asket of onions — u
gift from Shukri Agha — accompanied the note.

At 9 A.M. we set out for the liake. Two hours later
we were camped about a (juarter of a mile from the
shore, not far from the liivouac ground occuj)ied by us
on the IGth December, and on the site of old Kavalli, as
the chief showed us. We had five days' rations of grain
with us, and meat could be procured from the plain
behind us, as it swarmed with large game of various
kinds.

Prom my tent-door, at 4.30 p.m., I saw a dark olgect
loom up on the north-east horiz(mof the lake. 1 thought
it might be a native canoe, or perhaps the steel boat
Advance returnini;, but a binocular revealed the dimen-
sions of a vessel much larger than a boat or canoe could
possibly be, and presently a dark puti' of smoke issuing
from it declared her to be a steamer. An hour later we
could distinguish a couple of l)()ats in tow, and at
0.30 r.M. the steamer dropped anchor in the baylet of
Nyamsassi, in shore of the island of that name. Scores
of our people were on the beach in front of our camp

i .M

898

7.V VAItKF.sT A Fine A.

1888.
A)! 1 2ii.

Alb.'i't
Nvauza.

iii

'I f

firin.L'' .U'uiis. and \v,ivinL>' signals, hut tliouoli we were
only two miles from the island, no one appeared to
observe us.

Ardent messengers were tlierefore sent alono- the shore
to inform the party on board of our presence, and these
were, unhappily, so exuberant, that as they fired theii'
I'iHes to u'ive notice, thev were fired at in return 1)Y the
Soudanese, who naturally enough took the wild figures
for Kal)ba Rega's people. However, no harm was done ;
the boat's crew distinguished their comrades' cries, the
word was passed that the people on shore were friends,
and the boat was made readv to convev our visitors to
the beach near the camp. At eight o'clock, amid great
rejoicing, and after repeated salutes fnmi rifles, Emin
Pasha himself walked into camp, accompanied by Captain
Casati and Mr. .lephsim, and one of the Pasha's officers.
I shook hands with all, and asked which was Emin
Pasha i Then one rather small, slight figure, wearing
glasses, arrested my attention by saying in excellent
English, " 1 owe you a thousand thanks, Mr. Stanley ; 1
really do not know how to express mv thanks to you."

"Ah, you are Emin Pasha. Do not mention thanks,
])ut come in and sit down. It is so dark out here we
cannot see one another."

At the door of the tent we sat, and a wax candle thi'ew
light upon the scene. I expected to see a tall thin mili-
tary-looking figure, in faded Egyptian uniform, ])ut in-
stead of it 1 saw a small spare figure in a well-kept fez
and a clean suit of snowy cotton drilling, well-ironed and
of perfect fit. A dark grizzled ])eard bordered a face of a
Magyar cast, though a pair of spectacles lent it some-
what an Italian or S|)anisli appearance. There was not a
trace on it of ill-health or anxiety ; it rather indicated
good condition of body and peace of mind. Captain
Casati, on the other hand, though younger in years,
looked gaunt, care-worn, anxious, and aged. He like-
wise was tlressed in clean cottons, with an Egyptian fez
fur a head-covering.

Brief summaries of our incidents of travel, events in
Europe, occuii.ences in the E(piatorial Provinces, and

we wei'e
)cai'e(l to

the shore
111(1 these
red their
11 l)y the
1 figures
as (hnie ;
i-ries, the
} friends,
isitors to
iiid i»reat
?s, Em ill

Captain
i otHcei's,
IS Em in

wearino-
oxeellent
aiilev ; 1
[) you."
1 thanks,

here we

le threw
liii mili-
l)ut in-
kept fez
lied and
face of a
it some-
as not a
ndicated
Captain
1 years,
Ic like-
)tian fez

vents in
.'es, and

'^r

11 u

III

EMI}il AND CAPT. CAS ATI ARIilVE AT UUlt CAMR r.9i)

I'N-

anza.

matters personal, occupied the ])est part of two hours, \hha.
after which, to terminate the happy meetino', five half- "^'"'^ -^
pint bottles of champagne — a present from my friend ^^^^^^^
Greshoff, of Stanley Pool — were uncorked and dulv drank
to the continued good healths of Emin Pasha and Cap-
tain Casati.*

The party were conducted to the boat, which conveyed
them to the steamer.

April 30th. — Marched Expedition to Nsabc, a fine dry
grassy spot, fifty yards from Lake and a])out three miles
from Nyamsassi Island. As we passed the anchorage of
the steamer Khedive, we found a detachment of the
Pasha's Soudanese drawn up on the Lake shore on parade
to salute us with music. The Pasha was di-essed in his
uniform coat, and appeared more of a military man than
last night.

Our Zanzibaris, by the side of these upright figures,
seemed altogether a l)eggarly troop, and more naked
than ever. But I was not ashamed of them. It was l)y
their aid, mean as they appeared, that we had triumphed
over countless difficulties, and though they did not
understand drill, nor could assume a martial pose, the
best of these Soudanese soldiers were but children U)
them for the needs of a Relief Expedition. After this
little ceremonv was over I delivered to the Pasha thirtv-
one cases of Remington ammunition, and I went al)oard
the steamer, where I ))reakfasted on millet cake fried in
syiup, and a glass of new milk.

The steamer proved to be the Khedive, built by
Samuda Brothers in 1869, and is about ninety feet h)ng
by seventeen or eighteen feet wide ; draught five feet.
ThouGrh nearlv twentv vears old, she is still serviceable,
though sh)w. The upper works look well enough, Init
she is much patched l)elow v»-aier, I am told.

On board, besides the Pasha, wei'e ( asati. \'ita Hassan,
a Tunisian apothecary, some Egyptian clerks, an Egyp-

* The followiiif:? oiitrios must Ix^ rend while boariii}! in mind tliat
tliirty-fivo days previously the Pasliii Imd written to the Editor of Peter-
niann's ' Mitteilungeu' a letter, whieli he concluded with the siguiticaut
words, " //' Stanhy does not come soon, we are lost."

■'\

[ft 1 1

4(10

AV DAUKKST AFRICA.

lit

' n

,l^

i-'ss. tiau licurt'iianr. and some forty SouJaiR'sc soldiers, lie-
Aimi.iu. ^\^\^^ .^ i^j,,^. crew. Sonietiiiies, IVom the familial' sounds
^viiiuL l^'fii'd duiin^' moments of abstraction, I fancied myself at
Alexandria or on tlie liower ("onuo ; 1 tut, looking' up. and
taking' a sweepiui^' view around, 1 became assured that I
was on hoard of a steamer aHoat on Lake Alhert. As we
move slowly ahout. a mile and a half from the shore
northward, the lofty mass of the [)lateau of I iiyoio is to
our right, and to our left isan eijually f()rmi(hd»h' plateau
wall, the ascents and descents of which we know so well.
By u glance at the mass of Tnyoro, which is (hirkly hlue,
1 see the reason leaker gave the name of Blue Mountains
to our plateau wall, for were we steaming along the
L'nyoro shore the warm va[)our would tint our plateau
wall of similar colour. When we have left Nyamsassi
Island astern, a damp sheet of ro<'k. wetted l>y the stream
we crossed \'esterday in our descent, glistens in the sun
like a mirror, and makes it resemble a clear falling sheet
of water. Hence Baker gave it the name of a Cascade,
as seen by him from the eastern side.

Dr. -luidvcr and Dr. Felkin, especially in the Onf^Jiic
numbers of January, 1887. made us expect a nervous,
wiry, tall man of six IVet, or thereabouts, but in reality
Emin Pasha (h)es not exceed 5 feet 7 in lies in
height. I remember that the former was anxious
that the ti'ousei's ordei'cd in (/airo for his friend should
be long eriough in tli(> extremities. About six inches
were cut off the legs before they fitted, Ife tells me he
is forty-eight years old. In a])[»earance he does not
indicate such an age : his beard is dark almost to black-
ness, while his activitv would befit a man of thirtv or
thirty-five.

The Pasha tells me that he has visited Monbuttu, luit,
like the travellers SchweinJiirth, Casati, J'iaggia, and
-lunkei'. he has not made any astronomical observations,
but confined himself solely to the compass sui'vey. The
meteoi'ology of this climate, however, has received greater
attention, as might be expected from his methodical
haliitude of mind.

About noon we anchored oUXsabe, and 1 went ashore

A LONG CONVERSATIOX WITH EM IN.

401

to ])cstir the men to make a ivspeetable camp suitable
for a protracted halt in a country that we mi_uht well
call dangerous owing- to the proximity of Kaliba Rega.
That king, having thrown down the gage of battle to
Emin Pasha, miu'lit fancy himself strong en()U«>h, with
his 1,500 rifles, to test our strength; or the Waganda,
duriuij; their raids, miiiht hear of our vicinity and he
tempted by expected l>ooty to make a visit to us.

This evening Emin Pasha came ashore, and we had a
lengthy conversation, but after all I am unable to
gather in the least what his intentions may be. I have
delivered to him his mails, the Khedive's " High Order,"
and Nubar Pasha's letter.

I had an idea that I might have to wait about two
weeks, when we would all march to the plateau and
occupy a suitable spot in Undusuma, wJiere, after seeing
everything done for complete security and comfort, I
could leave him to return to the assistance of the rear
column. On being re-united we could resume our
march within a few days for Zanzibar ; but the Pasha's
manner is ominous. When I prop(jse a return to the
sea to him, he has the habit of tapping his knee, and
smiling in a kind of " We shall see ' manner. It is
evident he finds it difficult to renounce iiis position in a
country where he has performed viceregal functions.

After laying before him at some length the reasons of
the abandonment of the E(|uatorial Pi'ovinces by I'^gypt
he replied, " I see clearly the difficulty Egypt is in as
regards retention of these piovinces, but 1 do not see so
clearly my way of returning. The Khedive has wi'itten
to me that the pay of myself, officers and men will lie
settled by the Paymastei' (Jeneral if we I'cturn to Egypt,
but if we stay here we do so at our own I'isk and on
our own i-esponsibilitv, and that we <-annot expect
further aid from Egypt. Nubar Pasha has written to
me a longer lettei', but to the same etfect. Now, 1 do
not call these instructions. They do not tell me that I
nmst <[uit, but thoy leave me a free agent."

" Well, 1 will supplement these letters wuh my
own positi\e knowledge, if you will peimit me, as the

VOL. I. A A

1 mmH.
Al.ril, ;»0.

Nsabe.

, .at'

! : i

401

IN DAIiKESr AFRICA.

18ft8.
April 30.

Nsab^.

i ■ '

m I

Mll4

lijiii

iff

Khedive and Nubar Pasha are not here to answer for
tliemselves. Dr. Junker arrived in Egypt telling the
world that you were in great distress for want of
ammunition, hut that you had a sufficient (|uantity to
defend your position for a year or perhaps eighteen
months, providing no determined attack was made on
you, and you were not called upon to make a prolonged
resistance ; that you had defended the Equatorial Pro-
vinces so far successfully ; that you wouhl c(mtinue to
do so to the utmost of your a])ility, until you shouhl
receive orders from your Government to do otherwise ;
that you hjved the country and people greatly ; that the
country was in a prosperous state — (|uiet and contented
— possessed of almost everything required to maintain
it in this happy condition ; that you would not like to
see all your work thrown away, hut that you would
much prefer that Egypt shouhl retain these provinces,
or failing Egypt, s(mie European Power a])le and willing
to ccmtinue your work. Did Dr. Junker report you
corrctly, Pasha ? "

" Yes, he did."

" Well, then, the first idea that occurred to the minds
of the Egyptian officials upon hearing Dr. Junker's
report was, that no matter what instructions you
received, you would he disinclined to leave your pro-
vinces, therefore the Khedive snys that if you remain
here, you (h) so upon your own responsibility, and at
your own risk, and you are not to expect further aid
from Egypt.

" Our instructions are to carry a certain quantity of
ammunition to you, and say to you, up(m your obtaining
it, ' Now we are ready to guide and assist you out of
Africa, if you are willing to accompany as, and we shall
be delighted to have the j)leasure of your company ; but
if you decline going, our mission is ended.'

" Let us sup])()se the lattei', that you prefer remaining
in Africa. AVell, you are still young, only forty-eight ;
your constitution is still good. Let us say you will
feel the same vigour for five, ten, even fifteen vears
L>riger , but the infirmities of age will creep on you, and

OUR FUrUliE riiOCEEDINOS.

4f)3

your strength will fade away. Then you will begin to
look (loubtingly upon the future prospect, and mayhap
suddenly resolve to retire before it is too late. Some
route will be chosen — the Monlmttu route, for instance
— to the sea. Say that you reach the Congo, and are
nearing civilization ; how will you maintain your people,
for food must then be bought for money or goods ?
And supposing you reach the sea, what will you do
then ? Who will assist you to ccmvey your people to
their homes ? You rejected Egypt's help when it was
offered to you, and, to (juote the words of the Khedive,
' You are not to expect further aid from Egypt.'

" If you stay here during life, what l)ec(mies of the pro-
vinces afterwards ? Your men will fi^ht amono- them-
selves for supremacy, and involve all in one common
ruin. These are grave questions, not to be hastily
answered. If your provinces were situated within
reasonal)le reach of the sea, whence you could be fur-
nished with means to maintain your position, I should
])e one of the last to advise you to accept the Khedive's
otter, and should l)e most active in assisting you with
suggestions as to the means of maintenance ; but here,
surrounded as this lake is l)y powerful kings and warlike
peoples (m all sides, by such a vast forest on the west,
and by the fanatic followers of the Mahdi on the north,
were I in your place, 1 would not hesitate one moment
what to do."

" What you say is quite true," replied the Pasha, " Imt
we have such a large number of women and children,
probably 10,000 people altogether ! How can they all
be brought out t)f here { AVe shall want a great many
carriers."

" Carriers fjr what ? "

" For the women and children. You surely would not
leave them, and they cannot travel."

" The women must walk ; for such children as cannot
walk, they will be carried on donkeys, of which you say
you have many. Your people cannot travel far during
the first month, but little l»y little they will get ac^cus-
tonied to it. Our women on my second expedition

April :50.
Nsabe.

M-

W :

Pi <:

I ij

t: \

■' i

I ,1

4()4

IN IfAliKE^T AFlilCA.

\Am crossed Africa ; vour women, after a little while, will do
Ar.rii30. (^,iiteas well." '

"They will re(|uire avast amount of provisicms foi-
the road."

" Well, you have a large number of cattle, some
hundreds, I believe. Those will furnish beef. The
countries through which we pass must furnish grain a'.id
veiretable food. And when we come to countries that
will accept pay for food, we have means to pay for it,
and at JMsalala we have another stock of goods ready for
the journev to the coast."

" Well, Veil. We will defer further talk of it till
to-morrow."

Mai/ \st. — Halt at Nsabe'.

About 11 A.M. Eniin Pasha came ashore, and upon
beinfj seated we resumed in a short time our conversa-
tion of last evening.

"What you tohl me last night," began the Pasha,
"has led me to think that it is best we should retire
from Africa. The Egyptians are very willing to go I
know. There are about fifty men of them besides
women and children. Of those there is no doubt, and
even if I stayed ii^re I should be glad to be rid of them,
because they undtrmine my authority, and nullify all
my endeavours for ro^^-'^nt. When I informed them that
Khartoum had fallen and Gordon Pasha was slain they
alwavs told the Nubians that the storv was c(mcocted
by me, and that some day we should see the steamers
ascend the river for their relief. But of the Regulars,
who compose two l>attali(ms I am extremely doubtful.
They have led such a free and happy life here, that they
would demur at leaving a country where they enjoy
luxuries such as they cannot hope for in Egypt. They
are married, and l)esides, each soldier has his harem ;
most of the Irre<»ulars would doubtless retire and follow
me. Now supposing the Regulars refused to leave, you
can imagine my position would be adifHcult one. Would
1 be right in leaving them to their fate ? Would it not
be consionini'' them all to ruin ? I should have to leave
them their arms and ammunition, and on my retiring all

orii FrrruK PiiocEr.Dis'ds.

405

recognized authority and discipline would be at an end.
There would presently ris3 disputes and factions wouhl
be formed. The more ambitious would aspire to be
chiefs by force, and from rivalries would sjirino- hate and
mutual slaughter, involving all in one connnon fate."

" It is a terrible picture you have drawn, Pasha," 1
said. " Nevertheless, bred as I have been to obey orders,
no matter what may happen to others, the line of your
duty, as a faithful otticer to the Khedive, seems to me
to be clear.

" All you have to do, according to my idea, is to read
the Khedive's letter to your tr(K)ps, and ask those willing
to depart with you to stand on one side, and those pre-
ferring to remain to stand on the other, and prepare the
first for immediate <leparture, while to the latter you can
leave what ammunition and guns you can ..<pare. If
those who rciiiain number three-fourths or four-fifths
of your force, it does not at all matter to any one what
becomes of them, for it is their own choice, nor does it
absolve you personally from the line of conduct duty
to the Khedive directs."

"That is very true," replied the Pasha; "but sup-
posing thfi men surround me and detain me by force ? "

" That is unlikely, I should think, from the state of
discipline I see among youi- men ; but of course you
know your own men ])est."

"Well, I shall send the steamer down to-morrow with
the Khedive's letter, and you would ol)lige me greatly
if you would allow one of your officers to go and show
himself to the troops at Duffie. Let him speak to the
men himself, and say that he has come from the repre-
sentative of the (* vernment, who has been specially
sent by the Khedive to bring them out, and perhaps
when they have seen him, and talked with your
Soudanese, they will ])e willing to depart with us. If
the people go, I go ; if they stay, I stay."

" Now supposing you resolve to stay, what of the
Egyptians ? "

" Oh, those I shall have to ask you to take
charge of."

1B88.
May 1.

Nsabe.

'''%

! i

406

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

1 1

■

^1^^

^^P^"

1 ; I

1(1

1888.
Mayl,

Nsalt

"Now will you be ^ood enough to ask Captain Casati
if we are to have the pleasure of his company to the
coast, for we have been instructed to lend him every
assistance in our power ?"

C^iptain Casati answered through Emin Pasha.

" If the (tovernor Emin goes, I go ; if he stays, I stay."

"Well, 1 see, Pasha, that in the event of your staying
your responsibilities will be great, for you involve
Captain C^asati in your own fate."

(A laugh), and the sentence was translated to CVsati,
and the gallant Captain at once replied.

"Oh, I a])S()lve Emin Pasha from all responsibility
connected with me, for I am governed by my own choice
entirely."

" May I suggest then, Pasha, if you elect to remain
here, that you make your will ? "
, "Will! What for?"

" To dispose of your pay of course, which must by
this time be considerable. Eight years I believe you
said i Or perhaps you meditate leaving it to Nubar
Pasha ? "

" I give Nubar Pasha mv love. Pho ! There can be
only about two thousand and odd pounds due. What is
such c"i sum to a man about to be shelved ? I am now
forty-eight and one of my eyes is utterly gone. AVhen
I get to Egypt they will give me scmie fine words and
bow me out. And all I have to do is to seek out some
corner of C^airo or Stamboul for a final resting-place.
A fine prospect truly I "

In the afternoon Emin Pasha came again to my tent,
and during our conversation he said that he had resolved
to leav: Africa — " if his people were willing ; if not, he
would stay with them."

1 learned also that the Egyptians were only too
willing to leave for their mother-land, and that there
were a])out sixty -five of them. That the first ])attalion
of Regulars numbered a little over 650, and that the
second battalion amounted to nearly 800. That he had
about 750 Remington rifles, and that the rest were
armed with percussion muskets.

CAMP AT NSABE.

407

Miij/ '2)1(1. — The K/u'</in> steamer lefr this moniitig
for tlie northward, first to Mswa Station, tlienee to
Tunt^urn, fourteen and a lialf liours' steam in<i; from lience ;
two (hiy.s later she will sail for AVadelui, the third day
for Dultle'. She earries letters from the Pasha to bring
up sixty or seventy soldiers, a Major, and as many
carriers as can ])e mustered. She will prol)al)ly he
fourteen days absent. In the meantime we await here
her return.

I omitted to state before that tlie Pasha brought with
him, according to my letter, a few bullocks and milk
cows, al"»out forty sheep and goats, and as many fowls,
besides several thousand pounds of grain, as rations to
subsist the Expedition pending the time we should
remain on the Nyanza, as the shore in the neigh})ourhood
of Nsabe' is entirely destitute of food except what may be
obtained by hunting. With care we have (juite three
weeks' provisions on han<I.

Meanwhile the Pasha remains here with Captain
C'asati and about twenty soldiers, and is camped about
300 yards south of us. He and his people are com-
fortably hutted. There is every prospect of a j)erfect
rest free from anxiety for some two weeks, while myself
and officers will have the societv of a most amiable and
accomplished man in the Pasha. Casati does not
understand English, and his French is worse than my
own, so 1 am excluded from conversing witli him. I
learn frcmi the Pasha, however, that C'asati has had a
difficult time of it in L'nvoro. Until December last,
things progressed tolerably well with him. Residing in
Unyoro as iiimin Pashas Agent, he was the means of
forwardino; the Pasha's letter to Tuanda, and trans-
mitting such packets of letters, books, medicines,
etc., that Mr. M'ckay, Church Missionary Agent, could
spare.

Then from Uganda there came suddenly news to
Kal)ba Rega of our Expedition, whose force rumour had
augmented to thousands of well-ap})()inted sohliers, who
intended to unite with the Pasha's force, and sweep
through Unyoro and Uganda devastating every land ;

iH8a

May 2.

Nsab^

'•;

Mllll

1 1;

408

7.V DAUKEST AFIilCA.

188K and presently a packet of letters U)\' myself and oftieers
'^^ ^' was put in Kal»l»a l{e,ua's hands, eontirniinn in a measure
the truth of this re[)()rt. An officer was sent to Casati's
house, and the Wanyoio pilla^^ed him of every article,
and hound him and his servants to a tree, hesidcs troat-
in<i; him pei'sonally with every mark of indinnity.
JMohannned Biri, an Aral), who had l)een mainly the
medium of eommunieation between (*asati and j\li-.
Mackay, was, 1 am told, treated in a worse fashion — -
prohahly executed as a spy an<l traitor. Captain Casati
and his persona) servants, after a while were led out
from Unyoro, l)y Kahha Rega's otiicials, and when
heyond the frontier were tied to trees again in a nude
state. By s<mie means, however, they managed to
untie themselves and escape to the neigh) )oui'hood of
the Lake, where one of the servants discovered a canoe
and set out for the western shore across the Lake to
Tunguru to o))tain he)p from Emin Pasha. One of the
Pasha's steamers came across the daring fellow, and the
ca})tain on hearing the news, after sujiplying his vessel
with fuel, steamed away to ac(|uaint the Pasha. In a
few hours the Khedive steamer was under way, com-
manded ))y the Governor in person, who luul a detach-
ment of soldiers witli him. After searching for some
time the eastern shore, as directed ))y CVisati's servant,
tlie steamer was hailed from shore ))y (*asati, who in a
few moments found himself safe in the arms of his
friend. Some soldiers were sent on shore, and Kibei'o
was burnt in retaliation for the injuries done to his
agent. Of course, C'asati, having Ijeen turned out naked
into the wilderness, lost all his personal property, journals
and memoirs, and with these our letters.

The C^aptain placed a way-))ill in my hand, wherein I
learn that postal cariiers left Zauzi))ar on the 27 th July,
just one month after we had left Yam))uya, so that our
letters were duly received at Msalala (m the 11th
Septem))er, and arrive<l at the Church ^Missionary
Station in Uganda, Novem))er 1st; and that Captain
Casati received six packets of letters on the 1st
Decern) )er, just twelve days Ijefore we arrived on the

MA/lh'I'K/ (inl!i:i> liV A JIIFFA l.o.

4(t!»

wostoi'ii sliore of the Xyaiiza. As lie Wits cxpcllt'*! on
the l.'Uli February, I HHH, a('c<)r(lino' to liis acrouiit (»ur
mails sconi to liavc loiio' lain on his liands, proliaMy no
means having' lu'cn pivscntt'd ot" sending them to the
I'asha.

This mornino' ll o'clock (Saat Tato) the hunter set out
to shoot yame for the cam]), acc(»m{)anie(l l»y a few
younu; fellows anxious to participate in the sj)oi't. Two
buffalo fell victims to the hunter's uneriinu aim, hut a
third one, wounded only in the le^', according;' to the
cunninu' instinct of the l)east, rushed awav, and makino'
a circle hid himself in some Itranchy acacias to await his
opponent. Alahruki, the son of Kassin, thought he knew
the art of huflalo hunting', and set out on the tracks of
the wounded animal. The laitfalo on the alert nosooner
<lisc()vered his enemy, than uttering' a hoarse hellows
char";ed and tossed him, one of his horns enterinii' the
thigh of the unhappy man. While thus prostrate, he
was pounded with the head, gored in the side, arms, an<l
ripped in the body, until Saat Tato, hearing the screams,
rushed to the rescue when almost too late, and })lanting
a shot in the buffido's head, rolled him over, dead. A
young man hurried to camp to acquaint us with the sad
accident. "Three ()'ch)ck " set out again, and shot four
fine bu(;k roan antelope. While Maln-uki was l>eing borne,
shockingly mangled, in a cot to our camp, a strong detach-
ment of men were bearing the remains of three butfaloes,
and four roan antelopes to serve as provisions for a
people already gorged with beef and grain, but, strange to
say, there was as much eager clamour and loud demand
for their due share as if the men were famished.

On the night of April ;]Oth a strong gale blew nearly
all night, and the Pasha signalled to the K/tnh're to
drop two anchors. As there was good holding ground
the steamer rode the gale safely. Since then we have
had several strong squalls acccjmpanied with rain day
and night.

Mat/ 'SnL — Nsa])e' Camp.

Kavalli's people, like good subjects to their absent
prince, came to visit him to-day, bringing with them

1 M«<S(.

May 2.
Nsiibo.

4 ■ C

^*fl

410

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

til

jiiniJ:

l»!l

1888.
May 3,

Nsab4.

ten l)askets of potatoes, whicli were kindly distributed
])et\veen us and Eniin Pasha.

Durinfj a long conversation this afternoon Emin
Pasha stated, " I feel convinced that my people will
never go to Egypt. But Mr. Jephson and the S(nidanese
whom you are kind enough to leave with me will have an
opportunity to see and hear for themselves. And I
would wish you would write out a proclamation or
message which may l)e read to the soldiers, in which
you will state what your instructions are, and say that
you await their declaration. From what I know of them
I feel sure they will never go to Egypt. The Egyptians,
(»f course, will oo^ \)i\\ tliey are few in number, and
certainly of no use to me or to any one else."

This has ])eon the most definite answer I have
received yet. I have ' '.^en awaiting a positive declara-
tion of this kind l)efore venturing upon any further
proposition to him. Now. to fulfil my promise to
various parties, though they appear somewhat conflict-
ing, 1 have two other propositions to make. My first
dutv is to the Khedive, of course ; and I should ])e glad
to find the Pasha conformable, as an obedient officer who
kept his post so gallantly until ordered to withdraw.
By this course he would realise the ideal (iovernor his
letters created in my mind. Nevertheless, he has but
to speak positively to in<. ice me to assist him in any
way to the best of my power.

" \'^ery well," 1 said ; " aiid now pray listen. Pasha, to
two f)tlier propositions I have the honour of making to
you from parties who would be glad to avail themselves
of your services. Added to that which comes from His
Highness the Khedive, rhese two will make three, and I
would suggest th.it, as there appears to be abundant
time before you, that you examine each on its merits
and elect for yourself.

" Let me repeat them. The first proposition is that
you still c(»ntinue to be an obedient soldier and accom-
pany me to Egypt. On arrival, yourself, your officcis
and men. will i-eceive your pay up to (hite. Whether
you will be empl<>yed by the Government in active

MY PROPOSITIONS TO EMIN.

411

service I do not know ; I should think vou would.
Oliicers of your kind are rare, and E<iypt has a frontier
where such services as you could render would he
valuable. In answer to this proposition you, however,
say that you feel convinced your men will not depart
i'roni here, and that in the event of a declaration to that
effect being given by them that you will remain with
them.

" Now, my second proposition to you conies from
Leopold, King of the Belgians. He has retpiested me
to inform you that in order to prevent the lapse of the
E(|uatorial Provinces to barbarism, and provided they
can yield a reas(mable revenue, the Congo State might
undertake the government of them if it could be done
by an expenditure of about £10.000 or 112,000 per
annum ; and further, that his ^lajesty King Leopohl
was willing to pay a sufficient salary to you — .£ 1,500
as (Governor, with the rank of (Jenera) — in the belief
that such employment agrees with your own inclinaticm.
Your duty would be to keep open the connnunications
between the Nile and C^ongo, and to maintain law and
order in the Equatorial Provinces.

"My third pro})osition is : If you are convincccl that
ycair people will positively decline the Khedive's oH'er
to return to Egy[)t, that you accompany me with such
soldiers as are loyal to you to the norti.-east c()rner of
Victoria Nvanza, and ])ernHt me to establish vou there
in the name of the East Afiican Association. We will
assist you to buihl your fort in a locality suitable to the
aims of such an association, leave our boat and such
things as would be necessary for your ])ur{)osc with you,
and then hasten home across the Masai Land, lay the
matter before the Last .African Association, and obtain
its sanction for the act, as well as its assistance to
establish you permanently in Africa. 1 nnist explain to
you that I have n(> authoi-ity to make this last pro[)osi-
tion. that it issues from mv own goo<lwill to you, and
with an earnest desire to save you and your men from
the (;onse(|uences of your determination to remain here.
But I feel assured that \ can obtain its lieaity apj)ro\al

1888.
May a

Nsabe.

Ilfii

BftBMff If^T"

WWh I

.' ' l^lj ■-

i liittrii

LHIUi

: i

i^^K i

S-l

m i h

iiiiiiiM

!i4

1888.
May 3.

Nsabe.

412

IN DARKEST AFIilCA.

and co-operation, and lliat the Association will readily
appreciate the value of a trained liattalion or two in
their new aecjuisition, and the services of such an
administrator a" yourself.

" Pray, grant me a patient hearing for a moment or
two while 1 explain definitely to you your position here.
The whole system of Egyptian extension up to the
Albert Nyanza was wrong. In theory it was Ijeautiful,
and it was natural. What more natural than that the
G(n'ernment established at the mouth of a river should
desire to extend its authority up along the banks to its
source, and such a source as the Nile has. Unhappily,
however, it was an Egyptian Government, which, how-
ever honest in its intentions, could only depend upon
officials of the lowest moral (juality and mental calibre.
It is true the chief official in these regions has been a
Baker, or a Gordon, or an Eniin, but all the subordinates
were Egyptians or Turks. As you multiplied your
stations and increased your posts, you lessened your
own influence. While in ilie centre of your orint there
might be a semblance of government ; the outer circles
remained under the influences of Turkish and Egyptian
officers of some Cairene Pasha, or Bey, or Effendi, whose
conduct was licentious and capricious. By military
force the country was taken and occupied, and by force
the occupation has been maintained ever since. A
recognized (Government, even if it be that of Egypt, has
a legal and moral right to extend its authority and
enlarge its domain. If it executes its will effectively,
so much the better. Givilization will be benefited, and
all peoples are bettei- under a constituted (ilovernment
than under none. But was there an effective Govern-
ment ? As far as La(h) and (ir()n(h)koro, near the White
Nile Cataracts, it was tolerable I admit. Steamers could
steam from Berber as far as Lado, and the chief official
could superintend such sub - (lovernments as were
established, lait when, before making roads or prc-
])aring and ensuring the means of <'ommunication, the
r^gyptian (Jovernment approved the acts of expan-
sion undertaken over the immense, trackless, inacces-

/ EXPLAIN KMI2;'S POSITION To I JIM.

413

si])le area of the extreme Soudan, it invited the
catastrophe that happened. When Moliammed Aclimet
fired the e()m])u,stil»le material that the extortionate
subordinates had gathered, the means for extiniifuishinu:
the flames were scattered over an area of al)ort 500,000
S(|uare miles. The (lOvernor-iJeneral was shiin, his
capital taken ; one province after another fell ; and their
governors and soldiery, isolated and far apart, capitu-
lated ; and you, the last of these, only saved }'ourself
and men by retreating fi'om Lado. Expanded on the
same system, and governed only by the presence of the
military, these former Egyptian ac(]uisitions, if retaken,
would invite a similar fate. If the military occupation
were effective, and each sub-Ciovernment cohered to the
other, the collapse of the Government need not be
feared ; but it can never be effective under Egypt.
Neither her revenues nor her ])opulation can afford it.
In the absence of this, only self-interest of the peoples
governed can link these distant territories to the
(Jovernment of Egypt; and this is an element which
seems never to have l)een considered by those respcm-
sible for this sudden overorowth of Cairene enujire.
Wlien has this self-interest of the people been cultivated
or fostered i The captains marched their soldiery to a
native territory, raised a flag-staff, and hoisted the red
banner with the crescent, and then with a salute of
musketry declared the described <listrict around foi'mally
annexed to Egypt. Proclamations were issued to all
concerned, that henceforth the ivory trade was a
monopoly of the (Jovi'iinnent ; and in conse(|uence, such
tradei's as wei'c in the land were depri\'e(l of their
livelihood. When, to conn)ensate themselves for the
loss of 2)rofit incurred by these nu'asures, the tividei's
turned their attention to slaves, another proclamation
c 'islied their enter[)i'iKe in that traffic also. A large
number of the aborigines derived ])rofit ti'om tlie sale ot
ivory to the traders, others had large inteivsts in the
capture and sale of slaves, while the traders tliemselves,
having invested their ca))ital in these enterprises, dis-
euN'ereci them ;elves absolutely ruined, both money and

1.^88.
Mav 3.

Nsabe.

414

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

1888.
May o.

Nsabe.

occupation gijiie. Remenil)er, I am only considering the
policy. Thus there were left in the Soudan hundreds
of armed caravans, and each caravan numbered from a
score to hundreds of rifles. When Mohamed Achmet
raised the standard of revolt he had some advantaoes to
offer to the leaders of these caravans made desperate
1)V tlieir losses. What had the Government otlicials
to offer ? Nothing. C\)nse(juently all vestiges of the
(Tovernmnit tliat had been so harsh, so arbitrary, and
unwise, v ere swept away like chaff. It was to the
interest of traders to oppose themselves to the (govern-
ment, and to endeavour to restore a state of things
which, tlioui»h hiiihlv immoral as considered by us,
to them meant profit, and, what is more, relief from
oppression.

'' Now consider the (V)ngo State, which has extended
itself much more rapidly than Egyptian authority was
extended in the Soudan. Not a shot has been fired, no
violence has been offered to either native or trader, not
a tax has been levied except at the seaport where the
trader embarks his exports. Native chiefs voluntarily
offered their teriitories, and united under the blue flao-
with the golden star. Why i Because there were many
advantaoes to l)e derived fnmi the stranaers livino'
among them. First, they were protected against tlieir
stronger neighbours, every eatable they could raise and
sell brouo'ht its full value to them of such clothin<»- and
other necessaries they needed. Whatever trade they
had -ivory. rul>lter, palm-oil, or kernels — was free and
untaxed, and their native customs, or domestic matters,
were not interfered with. It was founded without
violence, and subsists without violence ; when, however,
the (*ongo State initiates another policy, taxes their
trade, lays hands upon the ivory as a (Jovei'nment
monopoly, meddk's with their domestic institutions,
absorbs tyrannically all the profits of the Kuropean
trader, before it is firmly established on the soil, and
ii'athei'ed about its stations suffi<'ient phvsical force to
enable it to do so with impunity, the (/ongo State will
collapse just as tlisastrously and as suddenly as was the

THE CONGO STATE.

415

iderino; the
I hundreds
ed from a
sd Achniet
antnoes to
i desperate
lit otticial.s
fj^es (^f the
itrary, and
ras to the
le (iiovern-
of things
3(1 1 )y us,
elief from

i extended

hority was

n fired, no

:rader, not

where tlie

oluntarilv

l»lue Hao-

^ei'e many

srs livinu'

inst tlieii-

raise and

tliin<>- and

rade they

free and

• matters,

witliout

however,

xes their

vei'nment

tituticms,

iMU'opean

soil, and

force to

>tate will

was the

case with Egyptian authority in the Soudan. 'I'he
disaster that occurred at Stanley Falls station is an
indication of what may he expected.

" Now every man who reflects at all will see that these
Provinces of yours can never be re-occupied ]>y Egypt
while Egypt is governed by Egyptian officials. Egypt
cannot afford the sums necessary to maintain an effective
occupation over a territory so remote. They are too
distant from Wadi Haifa, the present true limit of her
territory. When she connects Wadi Haifa with Berber, or
Khartoum or Suakim \\'\t\\ Berber ])y railway, Lad(> may
be considered the extreme southern limit of her territory.
When a railway connects La(lo\ 'th DafHc the true limit
of Egyptian authority will ])e the southern end of this
Lake, provided always that the military force will be
sufficient to maintain this mode of communication unin
terrupted. When do you think all this will ha})pcn ?
Durino- your lifetime ?

" Who else, then, will be so (piixotic as to casta covetous
eve on these Provinces? The Kino- of the Belmans ?
Well, there is a stipulation connected with this pro[)osal,
and that is, if the Provinces can 'give a reasonable
revenue.' You are the l)est judge of this matter, and
Vvdiether £10,000 or £12,000 sul)sidy will suffice for the
support of the Oovernment of these Province's. The
revenue, whatever it may l)e with this additional sum,
must be sufficient to maintain about twenty stati(nis be-
tween here and Yambuya, a distance of ()50 miles or
therea])outs : that is, to pay about 1.200 soldiers, alxnit
fifty or sixty officers, and a supreme (Tovernor, furnish
their eijuipments, the means of defence, and such trans-
port force as may be necessary to unite the most distant
part with the (\)ngo.

'' Failini»' the KinL"' of the Beloians, who else will
undertake your support and maintenance, befitting
vour station and necessity!* There ai'C enouidi kind-
hearted people in this world possessed of sufficient
superfluous means to ecpiip jin Expedition once, say,
every three years. But this is only a renij)orary
expedient for mere subsistence, and it scarcel\- re-

1H,S8.
JUay 3.
Nsabe.

tfii^ii!

1888.
Mny ;i.

41(3

JX I>A1U<E^T AFIUCA.

sponds to yonr wishes. AVliat then ? T await your
aiiswoi' Pasha, ao-aiii l»eui»iiii»- to ])e excused for ])eiii<T so
t'llkative.

" 1 thank vou very much, Mr. Stanley, I (h) assure
you, fVoni my heart. If 1 fail to express my gratitude,
it is hecause language is insutticient. But I feel your
kindness deeply, I assure you, and will answer you
frankly.

"Now, to the first proposition you have made me,
I haye already given my answer.

"To the second I would say that, first of all, my
duty is to Egypt. While I am here, the Provinces
belong to Egypt, and remain her propertj' until I retire.
When I depart they become 'no man's land.' I can-
not strike my flag in such a manner, and change the red
for the blue. I have served the first ^or thirty years ;
the latter I never saw. Besides, may I { sk you if, with
your recent experience, you thiidc it likely that commu-
nication could be kept open at reasonable cost?"

" London) )tedly not at first. Our experiences have
been too terrible to forget them soon ; ])ut we shall
return to Yambuya for the rear column, 1 anticipate,
with much less suffering. The pi(jneer suffers most.
Those who follow us will profit by what we have
learn e<l."

" That may be, but wo sliall be at least two years
before any news can reach us. No, I do not think that
proposition, with all due gratitude to I lis i\[ajesty King-
Leopold, can be entertained, and therefore let us turn to
the last proposition.

" I do not think that my people would object to accom-
panying me to the \ ictoria Nyanza, as their ol)jection,
so far as I know, only applies to going to Egypt. As-
suming that the people are willing, I admire the project
very much. It is the best solution of the difficulty, and
by far the most reasonable. For consider that three-
fourths of the 8,000 people are wcmien, children, and
young slaves. What would the Government do with
such a mass of people? Would it feed them? Then
think of the diiriculty of travel with such an army of

THE ' FOREIGN OFFICE' DESPATCHES.

417

await your
for l)eiii<x «<>

I do assure
ly oratitude,
t I feel your
answer you

e made me,

'• of all, my
e Provinces
ntil I retire,
lid.' I can-
mo-e the red
liirty years ;
you if, with
hat commu-

st '( "

ienees have

it we shall

anticipate,

tiers most.

we ha\e

two }Tars
think that
jesty Kino-
US turn to

t to aeconi-
ol)jection,
•ypt. As-
le project
ieulty, and
hat three-
Idren, and
t <lo with
n / Then
army of

helpless people. I cannot take upon myself the respon- i8R8.
sibility of leading such a host of tender-footed people to ^^y ^'
die on the road. Thejourney to the Victoria is possible.
It is comparhtively short. Yes, }»y far the last proposi-
tion is the most feasible."

" There is no hurry, since you are t(.> await the arrival
of the rear column. Turn the matter over in your mind
while I go to bring the ^lajor up. You have certainly
some weeks before you to consider the (piestion tho-
roughly."

I then showed him the printed Foreign Office
despatches furnished to me by order of Lord Iddes-
leigh. Among these was a eopy of his letter to 8ir
John Kirk, wherein he offered the Province in 188G to
England, and stated that he would be most liappy to
surrender the Province to the British Government, or,
in fact, any Power that would undertake to maintain
the Province.

" Ah," said the Pasha, " they shouhl never have
published this letter. It was private. What will the
Egyptian Government think of my conduct in ven-
turing to treat of such a matter ? "

" I cannot see the harm," I replied ; " the Egy2:)tian
Government declares its inability to keep the Province
the British Government will have nothing to do with
it, and I do not know of any company or body of men'
who would undertake the maintenance of what I regard,
under all the circumstances, as a useless possession. In
my opinion it is just 500 miles too far inland to be of
any value, unless Uganda and Unyoro have been first
brought under law ; that is, if you persist in declining
King Leopold's offer. If you absolutely decline to
serve the Kin<T of the Beloinris, and vou are resolved
to stay in Africa, you must trust in my promise to get
a British Gompany to employ you and your troo^os,
which probably has by this time been chartered with
the purpose of constituting i British possession in East
Africa."

VOL. I. BB

#1 1

418

IN DARKEST AFROTA.

1888
May 4

Nsabe.

CHAPTER XVL

WITH THE PASHA {continued).

Fortified stations m the Province — Storms at Nsabe — A nest of yonnpj
crocodiles — lake Ibrahim — Zanzibari raid on Balegga villages —
Dr. Parke gets in search of the two missing men — The Zanzibar's
again — A real tornado — The Pasha's gifts to us — Introduced to
Emin's officers — Emin's cattle forays — The Khedive departs for Mswa
station — Mabruki and his wages — The Pasha and the use of the
sextant — Departure of local chiefs — Arrival of the Kliedive and
Nyavza steamers with soldiers — Arrangements made to return in
search of the rear-column — ]\Iy message to the troops — Our Badzwa
road — A farewell dance by tlie Zanzibaris — The Madi carriers' dis-
appearance — First sight of Ruwenzori — Former circumnavigators of
the Albert Lake — Lofty twin-peak mountain near the East Ituri
Eiver — Aid for Emin against Kabba Eega— Two letters from Emin
Pasha — We are informed of an intended attack on us by chiefs
Kadongo and Musiri — Fresh INIadi carriers — We attack Kadongo's
camp — With assistance from Mazamboni and Gavira we march on
Musiri's camp which turns out to be deserted — A phalanx dance by
Mazamboni's warriors — Music on the African Continent — Camp at
Nzera-kum Hill — Presents from various chiefs — Chief Musiri wishes
for peace.

May ■itli. — Mswji, I am told, is 9 hours' distaiu'e from
Nsabe camp })y steamer, thence to Tunguru is 5 hours,
and to Wadelai 18 hours. The other fortified stations
are named Fahbo, east of Nile ; Duftie' end of naviga-
tion ; Horiyu, Lahore, Muggi, Kirri, Bedden, Rejaf, and
three or four small stations inhmd, west of the Nile.

He has spoken in a more hopeful tone to-day of the
prospects of returning from the sliores of the Albert,
the Victoria Lake region appearing even more attrac
tive than at first. But there is sui.
that I cannot fathom.

Mdji fiM.— Halt at Nsabe.

Another storm broke out to-day, commencing at
8 A.M., blowing from the north-east. The previous
gales were south-easters, veering to east. Looking

hing about it all

STORMS AT NSABE.

419

est of young
;a villages —
le Zanzibaris
itroduced to
irts for Mswa
e use of the
Kliedive and
to return in
-Our Badzwa
carriers' dis-
nuvigators of
?! East Ituri
•s from Emin
lis by chiefs
3k Kadongo's
ve march on
,nx dance by
it — Camp at
lusiri wishes

aiice from

s 5 hours,

d stations

►f naviga-

^ejaf, and

Nile.

ly of tlie

e Albert,

e attrae-

)0ut it all

incnig

previous
Looking

toward the steep slope of the plateau walls east and
west of us, we saw it shrouded in mist and vapour,
and rain-clouds ominous of tempests. The whole
face (»f the Nyanza was foam, spray, and white rollers,

hich, as thev approached the shore, we s

aw were

separated by great troughs, very dangerous to any
small craft that might he overtaken by the storm.

M(i>/ Itli. — Halt at Nsabe.

While at dinner with me this evening, the Paslia
informed me that Casati had expressed himself very
strongly against the route pro})osed to be taken, v'kI
Usongora, south, an<l advised the Pasha to take the
Monbuttu route to the Congo. From which I conclude
that the Pasha has been sr^eakino' to Casati about uoinjx
home. Has he then altered his mind about the
\ ictoria ?

M(i}/ 8///. — Halt at Nsabe'.

Each day has its storm of wind and rain, loud
thunder-claps, preceded by a play of lightning Hashes,
most beautiful, but terrible.

Discovered a nest of young crocodiles, thirty-seven in
number, having just issued from their egg-homes. By-
the-bye. to those unacquainted with the fact, a crocodile
has five claws on the fore feet, and onlv four claws on
the hinder. It has been stated that a crocodile raises
the u])per jaw to devour, whereas the fact is it depresses
the lower jaw like other animals.

JA/// \)tk, lOM.— Halt at Nsabe.

Mcuf 11 M. — P\)od supply is getting low. Five men
have wandered ofi' in .-search of s(miething, and have not
returned siuv-e vesterdav. 1 ho))e we are not j'oini'' to
be demoralized again.

Mr. Jeplison is suffering from a bilious attack.

liake Ibrahim, or (iita Nzige according to the Pasha,
is only an expansion of the Victoria Nile, similar to that
below Wadelai and Lake Albert, the Uppiu' CV)n<',(), and
Stanley Pool. (Vmsequently it has numerous channels,
separated by lines of islets and sand-bars. Both
(Jordon and Emin Pasha have ti-a veiled by land along
its right bank.

1HH8.
May tj.

Nsiibe.

(I's' 1

'^1

420

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Nsabe.

1888. At 9 P.M. I received dismal intelligence. Four men,
^v^^V-^ whom I observed playin<j!; on the sandy shore of the
Ip.ke at 4 o'clock, suddenly took it into their heads to
make a raid (m some Balei'i'a villas'es at the foot of the
plateau N.N.W. from here. They were surrounded hy
the natives, and two of them seemed to have lieen
killed, while the other two, who escaped, show severe
wounds.

May 12^.— Halt at Nsabe.

This morning sent Doctor Parke with forty-five rifles to
hunt up the two missing men. One of them came in at
9 A.M. after a night spent in the wilderness. He has a deep
gash in the back from a spear that had been hurled at
him. Fortunately it did not penetrate the vital parts.
He tells me he was exchanging meat for flour when he
heard rif^e shots ahead, and at once there was general
alarm. The natives Hed one way and he fled another,
but presently found himself pursued, and received a
spear wound in the back. He managed to outrun the
pursuer, until in the deep grass of watercourse he
managed to hide while a numl)er of natives were
searching for him. He lay there all night, and when
the sun was up, lifted his head to take a look round,
and seeing no one, made his way to the camp.

I am never quite satisfied as to the manner of these
accidents, wdiether the natives or the Zanzibaris are the
aggressors. The latter relate with exceeding plausiljility
their version of the matter, but they are such adepts in
the art of lying that I am frequently liewildered. The
extraction of the truth in this instance seems to be so
hopeless that I tell them I judge of the matter thus :

" You Zanzil)aris, so long as you receive five or six
pounds of flour and as many pimnds of meat daily,
become so lazy, you would not go to the steamer for
more to provide rations while she would be absent.
She has ])een gone now several days, your rations are
nearly exhausted, of course, for who can supply you
with as much meat as you can waste, and you left
camp without permission, to steal from the Balegga.
There was quite a party of you, I hear, and most of you,

ZANZIBARI RAID UN BALEOGA VILLAGES.

421

on seeing the vilhigc fairly crowded with natives, were
more prudent than otliers, and tiaded n little meat for
flour, hut your hohler (^cmipanions passed on, and hegan
to loot fowls. The natives resented this, shot their
arrows at the tliieves. who fired in return, and there
was a general flight. One of your nund)er has heen
killed. 1 have lost a rifle, and three more of you have
been wounded, and will be unfit for work for a long
time. Tliat is the truth of the matter, and therefore I
shall give you no medicines. Cure your own wounds if
you can, and you three fellows, if you recover, shall pay
me for my rifle.

Ma;/ 13^.— Halt at Nsabe.

The doctor returned from his cpiest of the missing
without further incident than burning two small vil-
lages and firing a few shots at distant parties. He
was unal)le to recover the body of the Zanzibari, or
his Winchester rifle. Where he fell was marked with
a good deal of ])lood, and iv is probal)le that he wounded
some of his foes,

A real tornado blew last nioht. Inkv clouds gather-
ing to the S.E.E. and N.E. prepared us somewhat for a
wet night, but not for the fearful volume of wind which
pressed on us with such solid force as to wreck camp
and lay low the tents. The sound, as it approached,
resembled that which we might expect from the rupture
of a chim or the rush from a collapsed reservoir. The
rain, swept l)y such a powerful force, pierced every-
where. No precaution that w^e had been taught l)y
past experience of this ISyanza weather availed us
against the searching, penetrative power of the rain
and its fine spray. From under tlie huts iiim icnts,
and along the ridge poles, through close shut windows,
ventilators, and doors, the tornado drove the rain in
until we were deluged T(j contend against such power
of wind and water in a pitchy darkness in the midst of
a deafening uproar was so hopeless a task that our only
refuge was to bear it in silence and with closed lips.
Daylight revealed a placed lake, a ragged sky, plateau
tops buried in masses of vapour, a wrecked camp,

1888.
May 12.

Ssabe.

1. [

422

/AT DAIiKEST AFHTCA.

if ^

1;lf

II i'

1888. prostnite tents, find soaking' t'ui'nitnrc. So t(MTil)l(' was
^'^y \^* the roar of the surf that we should liave wislied to
linve viewed the eareei'in^ lollers and tenipestnous face
of the hike l)y (hiyli<;iit. It is to he iioped that the
ohl Klii'dhw was safely liarhoured, otherwise she must
liave foundered.

Mai/ 14///. I Fait at Nsahe.

The steamer K/icdirc arrived this afternoon, l>rin,nin^'
in a supply of millet j^rain and a few mih-h eows. The
Pasha eanie up smiling with welcome yifts for each of
us. To me he gave a pair of stout walking shoes in
exehango for a smaller pair of hoots to l>e given him on
my retui'n with the reai- c()lumn. Mr. -lephsoii was
made happy with a shirt, a singlet, and a pair of
drawers; whih' Dr. Parke, whose grand kit had heen
stolen l)v an abscond in u' Zanzihari, received a hlue
jei'sey, a singlet, and a pair of drawers. Each of us
also received a pot of lioney, scmic hananas, oranges,
and water meh)ns, nions, an<l salt. I .dso received a
])oun(l of " Iloneydew Tobacco " and a bottle of jnckles.

These gifts, such as chjthes, that our officers have
received from Emin Pasha, reveal that he was not in
the extreme distress we had imagined, and that there
was no necessity for the advance to have pressed for-
ward so hurri('(lly.* We left all our comforts and
reserves of clothing behind at Yambuya, that w^e might
press on to the rescue of one whom we imagined was
distressed not only for want of means of defence from
enemies, but in want of clothing. Besides the double
trip we have made to Lake Albert, I fear I shall have
to travel far to go to the rescue of Major Barttelot and
the rear column. (Jod only knows where he is. He
may not have left Yambuya yet, and if so we shall
have 1300 miles extra marching to ])erform. It is a
terribly long march through a forbidding country, and
[ fear I shall lose many and many a good soul before it
is ended. However, God's will be done.

* Yet, Emin Paslia wrote ii letter on the 25tli Miircli, 1888, to tlie
Editor of Peterniann's Magazine, fifty dcays iireviously, wliich lie con-
cluded with the words, " If Stanley does not come soon, we are lost."

INTUODUCEl) TO EMIS'S OFFICERS.

423

He iiitr(nlu('('(l to mc to-day Sclini Wy and Major
Awash Etieiidi, and other otticHTs. I had siio<4(',st('d to
him two or three days ao;o that he (•oid<l assist inc
greatly if he eonstrueted a small station on Nyamsassi
Island, where we would he sine to have easv connnuni-
cation with his people, on which he also could store a
reserve of corn readv for the ai-rival of the united
Kx])edition. and he readily })roniise(l me. \\\\{ I conf<'ss
to experiencing*' some wonder to-(hiy when he tuincd to
Awash Etfendi, the Major, and said, rather [)lcadinii;ly
I thouf^ht, "Now promise me hefore Mr. Stanley that
vou will oive lue fortv men, to hnihl this station, which
Mr. Staidey so nmch desires." There is somethinuf
about this that I do not understand, it is certainly
not like mv ideal (Jovernor, Vice-Kinii, and leader of
men, to talk in that strain to subordinates.

Had another e(mversation with Kmin I'asha to-day,
from which 1 feel eonvinced that w«' shall not only have
to march to the Albert Nyanza a^ain, but that we shall
have to wait afterwards at least two months befoi-e he
(tan get his people to^i^ether. Instead of setting' to work
during our absence to collect his ])"oj)le and ])i'epare
for the journey, it is proposed to wait until my return
with the rear column, when it is expected I shall go as
far as Dulile to persuade the people to follow me. He
still feels assured his people will not go to Egypt,
but mav be induced to march as far as the \'ictoria
Nyanza.

I asked him if the report was true that ln' had cap-
tured 13,000 head of cattle during an incursion to the
western cattle-lands.

"Oh, no; it is an exaggeration. A certain l^akhit
Bey succeeded in taking 8000 head during a i-aid he
made in IMakraka, durinix Raouf l^asha's Governor-
(leneralship ; but he was severely censured for the act,
as such wholesale raiding only tended to depopulate a
country. That has been the greatest nund)er of cattle
obtained at one time. I have had occasion to order
forays to be made to obtain food, but IGOO head has
been the greatest number we have ever succeeded in

1888.
.May 14.

Nsabt.

«iii

i t"

}

Nsabe.

424

IN DAHKEST AFBICA.

1888. oljtaining at one time. ( )tlier forays liave resulted in
May 14. },i.inging us 500, 800, and 1200 head."

Both yesterday and to-day liave been very pleasant.
The temperature of air in shade, according to Fahrenheit,
has been as follows : —

9 A.M. Bl

eeze

from S.E.

. 86°

10.30 A.M.

. 88° 30"

1.30 P.M.

. 88° 30"

7 P.M

. 76°

Midnight

. 73°

6 A.M.

. 73°

Compensated aneroid. ]\Iean

2 -300 feet a1

ove .sea.

3fai/ IG^A.— Nsabe CVimp.

The steamer Klicdin' departed this morning for Mswa
Station and Tunguru. and probably f(jr Wadelai, to
hurry up a certain number of porters to replace our
men lost by starvation in the wilderness. Captain
Casati and Mons. \'ita Hassan, the Tunisian ap(jthecary,
have sailed with her.

In order to keep my men occupied, I have begun
cutting a straight I'oad through the plain towards
Badzwa Village. When we take our departure hence
we shall find our advantaoe in the shorter cut than bv
taking the roundabout patli ])y Nyamsassi Island and
the site of ohl Kavalli.

Fetteli, our interpretei'. wounded in • the st(mia(;h at
the skirmish of l^es.sc. is now (juite recovered, and is
fast re,<»ainin<»' his old weiti'lit.

Mabruki, the s(m of Kassim, so manu'led bv the
Ituffalo the other day, is slowly improving.

The man wounded by a spear in the back during his
foray into the villages of Lando, shows also signs of
rapid reco^('ry.

We live in liav-cock huts now, and mav consider
ourselves householders (according to Emin Pasha) of the
Albert Nyanza Province.

Afdi/ 17 th. — Nsabe Camp.

Our road is now 2,:5GO paces long towards Badzwa
Village.

Mill/ IHM.— Nsal)e Camp.

Our hunters, when receiving cartridges, insist cm their

THE PASHA AND THE SEXTANT.

425

resulted in

bein^' laid on the ground. Ill luck would follow if the
cartridgeri were delivered to them from the hand.

I have heen instructing the Pasha in the use of the
sextant the last two days preparatory to taking lessons
in navigation. His only surveying instrument hitlierto
lias been a prismatic compass, and as he has never been
taught to discover its variation, it is probable that his
surveys have been from magnetic bearings.

The son of Kassim, the victim to the fury of an
angry 1 mtfalo, called me this morning to his l)edside, that
I might register his last wishes respecting the wages
due to him. His friend Maruf and adopted brother
Sungoro are to be the legatees. Poor ]\Ial)ruki desired
to remember another friend, but the legatees hetjifed him
not to Jill the MaMer\<^ hook ivith namei^. He was so
dejected that I told him that the doctor had great faith
tliat he would recover. "You are in no danger. Your
wounds are very bad, but they are not mortal, and as
the Pasha will take (^are of you in my absence, I shall
fmd you a strong man when I return. Why do you
grieve to-day ? "

" Ah, it is because something tells me 1 shall never
see the road again. See, is not my l)ody a ruin ? "
Lideed he was a pitiable sight, right eye almost obscured,
two ribs broken, right thigh and fork lacerated in the
most dreadful manner.

The Chief Ml)iassi of Kavalli departed homeward two
days ago. Mpigwa, Chief of Nyamsassi, and his retinue
left yesterday. Kyya-nkonch) or Katoiiza, for he has
two names, also went his way (which, by the way, is in
the wihlerness owing to a late visit of Kablta Reua's
brigands), while iMazamboni's people after entertaining
the Pasha and his officers with a farewell dance last
night, took their leave this morning.

Three l)ufl"alo and a water buck were shot yesterday
by two of our hunters.

The last four days and nights have given us ])etter
thoughts of this African land and lake shoiv than we
previously entertained. The weathei* has been some-
what warm, but the lake breeze blowing light and soft,

1888.
May 17

Nsabfe.

•liijil

' i ' ■ \

1888.
May 19.

Nsabe.

426

IN DAltKEtiT AFRICA.

just strong enough to swing pendulous foliage, has been
cooling and grateful. The nights have been more
refreshing. In a sky of radiant brightness the moon
has stood high above the plateau's crown, turning the
lake into a (juivoring silver plain, the lake surf so
blustering and restless, rolls in a slow and languid
cadence on a gray shore of sand before the light
breath of an eastern wind. As if to (celebrate and
honour this peaceful and i-estful life, the Zanzibaris and
natives, who, last December were such furious foes,
rival one another with soiio- and chorus and strenuous

dance to a late hour each night.

THE STKAMK.Ra " KHKJtlVK " AND " NYAXZA '' OX LAKi: ALUKliT.

M(ti/ 19M.- Nsabc Camp.

Our road towards l^iadzwa is now three and a
third miles long. We have l)ut to hoe up the grass
along a line, and we liave a beautiful path, with the
almost imperceptible rise of I foot in 200.

Maj,' 20fh. — Nsal>e Cam]).

Captured two small brown snakes of a slight coppery
tint in mv tent this moi'ning.

Mai/ 2"l.s7.— Nsabe Camp.'

THE ''KHEDIVE" AND '' NYANZA" STEAMERS. 427

e, has been
been more

tlie moon
urning the
ke surf so
1(1 languid

the light
ein'ate and
zi])aris and
irious foes,
L strenu(jus

,BKKT.

'C and a
tlie grass
with the

it eoppei}'

The Pasha is now able to read the sextant very well. 1888.
He has also made an advance towards linding index ^'''^ '^"
error ; though he labours under the infirmity of short
sight, he is (juick and devoted to his intention of
acquiring the art of observing })y the instrument. At
noon we took meridian altitude for practice. He
observed altitude was 70° 54' 40" at one-and-half miles
distant, height of eye five feet. Index error to add 3' 15".

Mai/ 2'2ii(/. — ^Nsabe' C*amp.

The steamers KIwiUcc and Xi/anca, the latter towing
a lighter, appeared to-day ahout 1) A.M., bringing 80
soldiers, with the jNlajor and Adjutant of the 2nd
Battalion, and 130 carriers of the I\Iadi tribe. We
received gifts of raki (ten-gallon demijohn, a kind of
Russian vodka, from the Pasha's distillery, pome-
granates, oranges, water-melons, and more onions, be-
sides six sheep, four goats, and a (•ou})le of strong
donkeys, one for myself and «me for Doctor Parke).
The N>i(inz(i steamer is about GO feet by 12. 1 propose
leaving the Albert Lake for my journey in search of
the rear colunm of the Expedition the day after to-
morrow.

I leave with the Pasha, Mr. Mounteney Jephson,
three Souchmese soldiers, and IMnza. Doctor Junker's
boy, besides the unhap})y Mabruki. Of the baggage we
carried here, exclusive of thirty-one cases Remingtons
already delivered, 1 leave two boxes Winchesters, one
box of brass rods, lamj), and sounding iron ; also my
steel boat, .Idnincc, with her e(|uipnients.

In a<cor«lance with the re(|uest of the Pasha, I have
drawn up a message, which Mr. Jephson will read to the
troops. It is as follows : —

SoLDiKUS, — After iiiiiny iiiniitlis of li,'ir<l travol, T liavc at last roaclK'd tlio
Nyanza. I liav(>0()iiu' ('xprcssly at tlic ('oiimiaiid of tlic FvlicdivcTcwtik, to
load you out of here and sliow you tlie way lioiiie. For you must know
tliat the t?iver el Ahiad is closed, that KliartoiiiM is in the hands of the
followers of ]\rohanied Achniet, that the I'aslia (Jordon and all his (leojilo
wen! killed, and that all the stoamers and hoats between Berher and the
Bahr (Jliazal have been takfMi. and that the ncirest K}.'y|)tian station to
you is Wady Haifa, lielow Doiijiidla. Four times th<' Kliedive and your
fri( lids have made atteniiits to save you. First, (iordon I'aslia was sent
to Khartoum to lirin^^ you all home. Afti'r ten months of hard ligiitiiifj;

ill I

1888.
Wiiy 22.

^Isabe.

428

IN DAB REST AFBICA.

Khartoum was taken, and Gordon Paslia was killed, he and his soldiers.
Next came the English soldiers under Lord Wolseley to try and hel]>
Gordon Pasha out of his troubles. They were four days too late, for
they found Gordon was dead and Khartoum was lost. 'J'lien a Doctor
I.enz, a great traveller, was sent by way of the Congo to find out how
you could be assi.sted. But Lenz could not find men enough to go with
him, and so he was obliged to go home. Also a J)octor Fischer was sent
by Doctor Junker's brother, but there wei-e too many enemies in the
l)ath, and he also returned home. I tell you these things to j)rove to
you that you have no right to think that you have been forgotten in
Egypt. No, the Khedive and his Wazir, Nubar Pasha, have all along
kept you in mind. They have heard by way of Uganda how bravely
you have held to your ])ost, and how stanch you have been to your
duties as soldiers. Therefore they sent me to tell you this ; to tell you that
you are well remembered, and that your reward is waiting for you, but that
yoii must follow me to l^gypt to get your ])ay and your reward. At the
same time the Khedive says to you, through me, that if you ttiink the
road too long, and ai'e afraid of the journey, that you may stay her(>,
but in that case you are no longer his soldiers; that your ])ay stops at
orce; and in any trouble that may hereafter befall you, you are not to
blame him, but yourselves. Should you decide to go to Egy})t, I am to
show you the way to Zanzibar, i)ut you on board a steamer and take
you to Suez, and thence to Cairo, and that you will get your pny until
you arrive there, and that all promotions given you will be secured, and
all rewards ju'omiscd you here will be paid in full.

I send you one of my officers, Mr. Jephson, and give him my sword,
to read this message to you from me. I go back to collei^t my ])eopl(^
and goods, and bring them on to the Nyanza, and after a few months 1
shall come hack here to hear what you have to say. If you say. Let us
go to Egypt, I will then show you a safe road. If you say, We slniU not
leave this country, then I will bid you farewell and return to Egypt with
my own p(>oplo.

May God have you in His keeping.

Your good friend.

(Signcii I Stam.kv.

Mai/ 23rJ.— ILilt.

The Zanzibaris entertained the Paslia and liis otHcers
to-night with a fa ve well dance. Thouo;h they are quite
well aware of the dangers and fatigue of the journey
befoie them, which will commence to-morrow, there are
no symptcmis of misgiving in any of them. But it is
certhin that some of them will take their last look of the
Pasha to-morrow.

J/r/// 24M. — Marc^h to Badzwa village, 10 miles ; per-
formed it in 4 hours.

Emiu Pasha marched a company along our new road
at dawn this morning, and halted it about two miles
from the Lake. Ilavino- arranoed the Madi carrier;',
in their place in the column, the advance guard issued
out from camp and took the road towards the west at

MESSAGE TO THE EGYPTIAN TliOOPS.

429

0.15 A.M. In half-an-hoiir we foinid the Paslius lass.
Soudanese drawn up in line on one side of the road *'"^ "■^•
Tliey saluted us as we passed on, and the Pasha fer-
vently thanked us and bade us good-bye.

At the end of the new road twenty-one of the Madis
broke from the line of the column and disappeared
towards the north rapidly. Fourteen men were sent
back to inform the Pasha, while we held on our way to
IJadzwa. About a mile from the villai>;e there was
another stampede, and eighty-nine Madis deserted in a
l)ody, but not without sending a shower <jf arrows
among the rear guard. The doctor, believing that this
was preliminary to an attack f)n his small detachment,
fired his rifle, and dropped a Madi dead, wliich precipi-
tated the flight of the deserters. The remaining nine-
teen out of the 130 were secured.

A second message was therefore sent to the Pasha
accjuainting him with the events of the march.

When about five miles from Nsabe Camp, while
looking to the south-east, and meditating upon the
events of the last month, my eyes were directed by a
boy to a mountain said to be covered with salt, and I
saw a pe(^uliar shaped (doud of a most beautiful silver
colour, which assumed the proportions and appearance of
a vast mountain covered with snow. Following its form
downward, I became struck with the deep bUie-lilack
colour of its base, and wondered if it portended another
tornado ; then as the sight descended to the gap between
the eastern and western plateaus, I became for the first
time conscious that what I gazed upon was not the
image or semblance of a vast mountain, but tlie solid sub-
stan(;e of a real one, with its summit <'overed with snow.
I ordered a halt and examined it carefully with a field-
glass, then took a compass bearing of the centre of it,
and found it bear 215° magnetic. It now dawned upon
me that this must be the Ruwenzori, which was said to
be covered witli a white metal or s ibstance believed to
be rock, as reported by Kavalli's two slaves.

This great mountain continued to be in sight most
distinctly for two hours, but as we drew nearer to

480

IN DAPKEST AFRICA.

til

tijiii

i
!

f 1

fW' W

^* ffl '^

jii 1

1888.
May -24.

Badzwa.

:l'!

Badzwa at the foot of the plateau, the h)fty wall of the
plateau hid it from view.

This discovery was announced to the Pasha in the
second message I sent. When 1 come to reflect upon
it, it strikes me as singular that neither Baker, Gessi,
Mason, or Emin Pasha discovered it long ago.

Gessi Pasha first circumnavigated the Albert Lake,
steaming alono; the western shore towards the south,
roundinfi^ the southern end of the lake and continuinu'
his voyage along the eastern shore.

Mason Bey, in 1877, is the next visitor, and he
follows the track of (^essi with a view of fixing positions
by astronomical observations, which his predecessor was
unable to do.

Emin Pasha, eleven years later, comes steaming south
in (|uest of news of the white men reported to be at
the south end of the Lake.

If a fair view of this snowy mountain can be obtained
from the plain of the Nyanza, a much better view ought
to be obtained from the Lake, and the wonder is that
none of these gentlemen saw it. Whereas Baker, cast-
ing his eyes in its direction, on a " beautifully clear day,"
views only an illimitable Lake.

Messrs. Jephson and Parke, while carrying the boat
from Kavalli's to the Lake, report that they saw snow
on a mountain, and the latter officer, pointing to the
little range of Unya-Kavalli, in(|uired of me on his
return if it was possilde that snow would be found on
suc'h hills. As their highest peak cannot be 5,500 feet
above the sea, I replied in the negative, l)ut the
doctor said that he was eipially certain that he had
seen snow. 1 explained to him then that a certain
altitude of about 15,000 feet in the Eijuatorial regi(ms
is recjuired before rain can be congealed into permanent
snow ; that there might be a hail-storm or a fall of
snow, caused l)y a cold current, even on low altitudes in
a tropic region, but such cold w'ould only be temporary,
and the heat of tropic waters or tropic soil would in a
few moments cause the hail and snow to disappear.
Standing as we were in camp at Bundi, on the crest of

FIR^T SIGHT OF RUWENZORT.

4;u

l the boat

the phiteau, in phvirr view of Unyn Kavalli and other
hills, there wa»s no height vi.sihle anywhere al)ove GOOO
feet of an altitude above the sea.

Considering the above faets, it will be evident that it
requires a peculiar condition of the atmosphere to enable
one to see the mountain from a distance of 70 miles,
which I estimate it at. Near ()l)jects, or those 10, 15,
or 20 miles, an ordinarily clear atmosphere may enable
us to distinguish ; but in sucii a humid region as this
is, on a bright day such a quantity of vapour is exhaled
from the heated earth, that at .SO miles it would be
intensified into a haze which no eyesight could pene-
trate. But at certain times wind-currents clear the
haze, and expose to the view objects which we wonder
we have not seen before. As, for instance, in Decend)cr
last, returning frcmi Nyanza to Fort Bodo, I took com-
[)ass l)earings of a lofty twin-peak mountain from a
tal)le hill near the East Ituri lliver. I noted it down
that the twin-peak mass was already seen, awO "• Dointed
it out to Mr. Jephson. Strange to say, I have never
seen it since, though 1 have l)e3n twice over the ground.

Kavalli passed our camp this afternoon with 400 men
to assist Emin Pasha in a demonstration he pr(»poses to
make against Kab])a Rega. Katonza and Mpigwa of
Nyamsassi will also, perhaps, lend an ecjual nund)er to
his assistance.

I received the following letters to-day from the
Pasha. When he talks of pride and joy at being in our
company, 1 think we are all unanimous in ])elieving
tliat lie has given us as nmch pleasure as we have
given him.

Nsabo Ciuii]),
25//t May, 1888, 5 a.m.
Ukau Siu,

I should not need to tell you liow distrcs.sed I have been when
I heard of the misfortune ha|)i)eii('d Ity the desertion of our Madi i)eo))le.
1 at once sent out different seurehinj;- parties, but I am sorry to state tiiat
up to noon their efforts were of no avail, althouj^^h Shukri A{i;ha and
his ])arty, who went yest(U'day to Kahanania, have not returned.

By a mere chance it ha))))eiied that when Dr. Parke* came a boat from
iMswa station had arrived, l)rinij,in|:; me int(!llip;enceof the arrival there of
120 porters from Duffle. 1 therefore started inunediateiy the K/wdive
steamer to brinfj; them here, and expect her back this very night, when,

1888.
May 24.

liadzwa.

432

7.V DARKEST AFRICA.

1H88.
May '24.

Badzwa.

■"■■ 'Iv . I

■ I'

at licr arrival, I shall start the whole gang, accompanied by a detachment
of my people.

Allow nio to be the first to congratulate you on your most splendid
discovery of a snow-clad mountain. We will take it as a good omen for
further directions on our road to Victoria.* I propose to go out on your
track to-day or to-morrow, just to have a look at this giant.

In exp(!ctance of two words of you this morning I venture to offer you
my best wishes for the future. 1 always shall renuanber with pride and
joy the few days I was i)ermitted to consort with you.

Relieve me, dear Sir,

Yours very sincerely,

(Signed) Dr. M. Emin.

Nsabe Camp,
26<A iJ/ay, 1888, 2 80 a.m.

Dear Sib,

Your very welcome and most interesting note of yesterday has
reached me at the hands of your men. The steamer has c(>nie in this
very instant, but she l)ronght only eighty-two carriers, the rest having
run away on the rosd between Tiinguru and Mswa. I send, therefore,
these few men, accompanied by twenty-five soldiers and an officer, hoping
they may be of some use to you. Tlieir arms having been collecte<l 1
handed them to the officer, from wiiom you will kindly rec(!ive them.
We heard yestei'df.y evening that y(mr runaways had worked their way
to Muganga, telling the people they were sent by me.

The ten men you kindly sent here accompanying the carriers as well
as Kavalli and his men. Having caught yesterday a spy of l{avidongo t
in Katonza's Camp, I told this latter he would better retire, and he acted
on this advice. I have ac(piainted Kavalli with my reasons for not
interfering just now with Eavidongo, and have asked him to return to
you. He readily assented ; he had some presents, and starts now witli
the courier. He entreats me, further, to beg you to send some of your
•men to take liold of his brother Kadongo, who stays, says he, with the
Wawitn somewhere near to his residence.

I shall try hard to get a glim])se of the new snow mountain, as well
from here as from some other points I propose to visit. It is wonderful
to think how, wherever you go, you distance your predecessors by your
discoveries.

And now as this, for some time at least, is probably the last word 1
will be al)le to address you, let me another time thank you for the
generous exertions you have made, and you are to make for us. Let me
another time thank you for the kindness and forbearance you have shown
me in our mutual relations. If I cannot find adeqiiate words to express
what moves me in this instant you will forgive me. I lived too long in
Africa for not becoming somewhat negrofied.

God speed you on your cour.se and bless your work!

Yours very faithfully,

(Signed) Dr. Emin.

May 25th and 2G?//. — Halt ut Badzwa.
The Pasha has abandoned his idea of makins'" a
demonstration ao;iunst CJnyoro, and his allies, who have

* It is clear that he was smitten with the Victoria Lake proposition.
t Bavidongo, one of the principal generals of Kabba Kega.

idiJilM

TWO LETTERS FliOM EM IX VASIIA.

438

\j ii detachment

)b. M. Emin.

much to avenge, have been (juickly dismissed home-
ward.

In the afternoon Balegga descended from Bundi Hill
Village, and secretly informt us that Kadongo and
Musiri — the latter a warlike H.id powerful chief — have
banded their forces together and intend to attack us on
the road ])etween Gavira's and Mazamboni's, We have
given neither of them any cause for this (juarrel, unless
our friendship with their rivals maybe deemed sutHcient
and legitimate. I have only 111 riHes and ten rounds
of ammunition for each ritie, to reach Fort Bodo, 125
miles distant. If any determined attack is made on us
in the opr^^ country, a few mcmients' tiring will make us
helpless. T 3refore I shall have to resort to other
measure ]l was held hy Thomas Carlyle that it was
the highe.it wisdom to know and l)elieve that the stern
thing w^hi^h necessity ordered to be done was the wisest,
the b'^st, and the only thing wanted there. I will
attacl^ Kadongo first, and then march straight upon
JMusiri, and we will spend our last shots well, if necessary.
It may be this bold movement will upset the c(mibi-
nation.

The Pasha has acted quickly. Eighty-two fresh
carriers arrived at noon, under a strong guard, an<l three
soldiers specially detailed to accompany me. On their
delivery to us, each Zanzibari received a j\ladi to guard.

At half-past three in the afternoon we commenced
the steep ascent up the terrible slope of the plateau,
with a V)urning sun in our front, and reached the crest
at Bundi camp at G.30 p.m., a half-hour after sunset.

After placing strong guards round the camp, I
selected a band of forty rifles of the choictest men under
two Zanzibari chiefs, and prepared them for a surprise
party to attack Kadongo's camp by night. A few of
our native allies volunteered to show the hill village he
was occupying.

At 1 A.M. the party w^as despatched.

Maj/ 27th. — At 8 a.m. the party detailed against
Kadonoo returned, havinij; effected their mission most
successfully, but Kadongo himself escaped by crying

VOL. I. CO

1888.
May 29,

Buadi.

:lti !'S

i4l

434

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

I" '9,

I ■'

ill

li' ; I

III

•i;r

iimi

■ t

14, ^

! '

1888.
May 27.

out that lie was a friend of " Biila Matari." No cattle
or <i'oats were taken, Ijecaiise the ])hiee was only oe( u-
pied hy Kadongo's hand for temporary purposes.

We then lifted our l)urdens and hegan our march
towards (javira's. We had barely started when wc
discovered a laroe hand of men advancing towards
us, preceded by a man bearing a crimson flag, which at
a distance might be taken for that of Zanzil)ar or Egypt.
AVe halted, won(h'ring what party this might be, but
ill a few mcmients we recognised Katto, ■\Iazand)()ni's
brother, who had been sent l)y his chief to greet us and
learn our movements. We admired the aptness of
these people in so soon learning to follow the direction
given to them, for had not the Hag held us in suspense.
we might have injured our friends by taking them for
the van of JMusiri's w\ir-party.

Retaining a few of them to follow us, I ordered
Katto to return cjuickh'^ to Mazam])oni, his brother,
and secretly inform him that as Musiri intended to
attack us on the road, I intended to attack him at dawn
the day after to-morrow, and that I expected from
Mazamboni, as my ally, that he would bring as many
men as he could sometime that next day. Katto
declared the thing possible, though it was a short
notice for the distance to be travelled. We were at
the time six miles from Gavira's, thence to JVIazamboni's
village was thirteen miles, and back again to Gavira's
would be another thirteen miles, and in the meantime
some delay would Ije necessary to secretly muster a
sufficient Ijody of warriors becoming Mazamboni's rank,
and prepare rations for a few days.

We arrived at Gavira's a])out noon. Here I pro-
posed to Gavira to join me in the attack, wdiich the
chief as readily promised.

^faJ^/ 28///. — Halt. We have received abundant con-
tributions of food for our force, which numbers now 1 1 1
Zanzibaris, 3 whites, (i cooks and boys, 101 Madis, and
3 soldiers belonging to the Pasha — total 224, exclusive
of a few dozen natives who voluntarily follow us.

An hour after sunset Mazamboni arrived in person

Musinrs vA.yr deseiited.

486

111 suspense.

witli nltout 1000 wurriors arriuMl with hows and spears.
Ilis force was camped in the potato fields l)etweeii
(Javira's and Musiri's district.

Mdjl 'l\)tli. — At three o'clock a.m. we set out for Usiri
on a N.W. road, a l)rioht moon li_i;htiii,n' the way.
Al>out 100 of the l)ol<lest of Mazamitoni's cor})s preceded

1S88.
May 'J'J.

llsiri.

our force. The others fell in line hehind. and (Javira's
tril)e, represented ])y al>out ,500 men. hrou^ht up the
rear. A deep silence, Itetittinn' our pur[)ose, pivvailed.

At 6 A.M. we reached the outskirts of Llsiri, and in a
few moments, each chief havin^' received his instruc-
tions, Dr. Parke, in char«;e of sixty riHes to keep the
centre, Katto, in charge of his brother's wari'iors to form
the left wing, and Alpin^i^a and (Javira with his men to
foi-m the right, the attacking force moved on swiftly.

The results were ludicrous in the extreme. Mpinga's
Walmnia herdsmen had given notice to JVlusiri's
Wahuma herdsmen, and ^Iazaml)oni's Wahuma had ])eeii
just as communicative to their fellow-countrymen wi^ll
the enemy. CVmse(|uently the herdsmen luul driven
all the herds from Usiri hy other roads ; a half of them
arrived at Gavira's, and the other half at jVrazaniboni's,
just at the same morning when the attacking force
poured over the land of Usiri. and M usiri, the chief,
after hearing of the disaster to Ka(h)n<''o, and of the
mighty army to be l)rought against him, took tender
care that not one soul under his sway should l)e
injured. The land was <pute empty of people, herds,
flocks, and fowls, but the granaries were heaped full of
grain, the fields exhibited abuiuhmt crops of potatoes,
])eans, yo-ng Indian corn, vegetal ties, and toljacco. I
am secretly glad of the l)loodless teri)iination of the
aflair. My object has been gained. We have saved
our extremely scanty supply of ammunition, aiul the
road is clear frcmi further trouble. jVlazam})oni and
Gavira, I believe, were also delighted, though they
expressed themselves mortified.

In one of the huts was discovered the barrel of a
carbine and percussion lock The latter bore the Ijrand
of "John Clive III., 530." This is a relic of Kabba

ili:

miM

1888.
Mny 2$).

Uairt.

48H

JN DAltKKST AFRICA.

Rega's visit, whose men were sadly dcfeatod })y Musiri
about a year a<>'o.

Ill the afternoon j\lazaiiil)oiii's warriors, 1000 strong-,
joined to eelehrate the hloodh'ss victory over Musiri in
a plialanx (hmee. Dancing in Africa mainly consists (»f
rude hutfoonery, extravagant "gestures, leapin*;" and
contortions of the liody, wliile one or many drums keej)
time. Tliere is always al)uii(hince of noise and loud
laughter, and it serves the j)ur})ose of furnishing;' amuse-
ment to the barharians, as the dervish-like whirlin^t;' and
pirouetting; jj^ive to civilised people. Often two men
step out of a semicircle of their fellow villa^i^ers, and
(ihaiit a duet to the sound of a drum or a horn amid
universal clapping of hands, or one performs a solo
while dressed most fantastically in cocks' feathers, strings
of rattling gourds, small globular bells, and heaps of
liuman, monkey, and crocodile teeth, which are the
African jewels ; but there must always be a chorus, the
grander the lietter, and when the men, women, and
children lift their voices high above the (b'ums, and the
■chatter and murmur of the crowd, 1 must confess to having
;enjoyed it immensely, especially when the Wanyamwezi
•iire the performers, who are by far the l)est singers on
the African continent. The Zanzibaris, Zulus, Waiau,
Wasegara, Waseguhha, and Wan^iiKh) are in the main
very niu(;h alike in method and execution, though they
have each minor dances and songs, which varv con-
aiderably, but they are either dreadfully melancholiac or
stupidly barbarous. The Wasoga, Waganchi, Wakerewe,
Wazongora, around Lake Victoria, are more subdued, a
crude bardic, with something of the whine of the Orient —
Mustapha, or Hussein, or Hassan, moaning ^elow lattices
to the obdurate Fatima or stony-eared Roxaua. Except
the Wanvamwezi, I have not heard anv music or seen
any dance which would have pleased an Englisli
audience accustomed to the plantation dances repre-
sented in a certain hall in Piccadilly until this day, when
the Bandussuma, under Katto, the brother of Mazamboni,
led the chief warriors lo the phalanx dance Half a
score of drums, large and small, had been beaten by

A J'ni.AXX DASCE.

437

Ubiri.

lialf }i score <»f accomplislied perfornuM's, koepin<r issa
adiuiraltk' time, mikI emitting' a pt'itoct volmne of s(mn(l ^'"y '-^'^
wliicli must have Iteen licard tar awav for luilos, and in
rlic UR'antinu' Katto, and liis cousin Kak'nue, adoi'nc*!
with <;lorious tufts of white cocks' fcathci's, were
an-anjiiuii" thirtv-tliree lines of thirtv-three men ea<'ii as
nearly as possible in the form of a perfe<-t and solid and
close s(|uare. Most of these men had hut one spear each,
others possessed two besides their shields and <juivers,
wliich were suspended from the neck down the ]>ack.

The phalanx stood still with spears nroundcd until, at
a sional from the drums, Katto's deep voice was heard
Wreaking out into a wild triumj)hant sono- or chant, and
at a particular uplift of note raised his spear, and at
once rose a forest of spears hioli ahove their heads, and
a mi<Jihty chorus of voices responded, and the phalanx
was seen to move forward, and the eai'th around my
chair, which was at a distance of fifty yards from the
foremost line, shook as though there was an earth(|uake.
1 looked at the feet of the men and discovered that
each man was forcefully stamping the ground, and
taking forward steps not more than six inches long,
and it was in this manner that the phalanx moved
slowly l)ut irresistihlv. The voices rose and fell in
sweeping waves of vocal sound, the forest of spears rose
and sul)sided, with countless flashes of polished ii'on
1 (lades as thev were tossed aloft and lowered auain to
the hoarse and exciting thunder of the drums. There
was accuracy of cadence of voice and roar of drum,
tliere was uniform uplift and subsidence of the constantly
twirling spear blades, there was a simultaneous action
of the bodies, and as they brought the ti'emendous
weight of seventy tons of flesh with one regular stamp
of the feet (m the ground, the firm and liard earth
echoed the sound round about tremulously. With all
these the thousand heads rose and drooped together,
lising when venting th glorious volume of energy,
drooping wiih the unde -ne of wailing murnuir of the
multitude. As thev shouted with faces turned upward
and lieads bent back to irive the fullest effect to the

■ JJ' -^ — '

488

IN DARKEST AFBICA.

i i

1888. asceiulino; tempest of vcnces, su<Tjojestive of ([ueiieliless
May 29. f^y^ wivitli uiul extei'iiiiuatiiig war, it appeared to inflate
every soul witli the passion of deadly ))attle and every
eye of the oidookers glowed luridly, and their right
arms with clenched fists were shaken on high as though
their spirits were thrilled with the martial strains ; but
as the heads were turned and howed to the earth we
seemed to feel war's agony, and grief, and woe, to think
of tears, and widows' wails, and fatherle.ss orphans'
cries, of ruined hearths and a desolated land. I^ut
again as the mass, still steadily drawing nearer, tossed
their heads backward, and the bristling blades Hashed
and clashed, and the feathers streamed and gaily
rustled, tliei'e was a loud snort of defiance and such an
exulting and energising storm of sound that man saw
oidy the gloiious coh)urs of victory and felt only the
proud ])ulses of triumph.

Right up to my chair the gi'eat solid mass of wildly
chanting natives advanced, and the front line lowered
their S2)enrs in an even line of bright iron ; thrice they
dr()pj)e(l their salute and thrice they rose, and then the
lines, one after another, broke into a run, spears
clenched in the act of throwing, staffs (piivering, war-
whoops ringing shriilv. The excitement was intensified
until the s(|uare had been transformed into wheelinu
circh's three deep, and after three ciivjings round the
open plaza, Prince Katto took his position, and round
him the I'acing men coiled themselves until soon they
were in a solid circle. When this was completed the
S(]uar(' was formed, it was divided into halves, one half
returning to one end. the othci- half to the other end.
Slill continuing the wild chant. thc\- Irotte*! towai'ds
one another an 1 passed through without confusion,
exchanging sides, and then once more in a i'a[)id circling
of the village common with drea<lful nestures until the
eye was bewildered with the wheeling forms, and then
everv man to his hut to lauuh and jest, little hee(linu' what
aspects they had conjured by their evolutions and chants
within me. or any one else. It was certaiidv one of the
best ai.d most exciting exhibitions 1 had seen in Africa.

F quenchless
■ed to inflate
le and every

their rij^ht
;h iis though

strains ; l)ut
:he earth we
voe, to think
ess orphans'
hind. I^ut
learei', tossed
hides flash e< I
I and i>ailv

an<l such an
lat man saw
:elt only the

lass of wildly
line lowered
; thrice they
and then the
run, spears
ivering, war-
is intensitied
to wheeling
s round the
arid rouml
il soon they
mpleted the
ves, one halt
e other end.
te(l towards
t confusion.
api<l circling
cs until the
us. and then
leeding whal
s and eliaiits
\- one of the
M in Afriea.

'^^_ertgr'irm.'

ill

CAMP AT NZEBA-KUM IJJLL.

441

May 30^//. — March to Nzera-Kum Hill in Xdusuma,
three hours.

We marched to ^Iazani1»oiii's countrv to our old camp
at Chongo, which name the Zanzihai'is have given to
the hill of Nzera-Kum, and we had abundant evidence
that Mazamhoni was deeply implicated in tliC acts of
the Wahuma herdsmen, for the track was fresh and
large of manv a fiiie herd of cattle. Presentlv we came
in sight of the tine herds, who. all unconscious of
trouble, were browsing on the tine pasture, and the
Zanzil)aris clamoured loudly for permission to captui'e
them. For an instant only there was a deep silence,
but Mazand)oni, on l)eing asked the reason for the
presence of ^lusiri's herds on his territory, answered so
straightforwardly that they belonged to the Wahuma
who had fled from his territory last Decendter when he
was in trouble with us, an<l now to avoid the same
trouble in Usiri had returned to their former })lace, and
he had not the heart to prevent them, that tlic order
was given to move (.n.

Mill/ 31.v^. — Halt. Mazamboni gave us a present of
three beeves and supplied our people with two da}'s full
rations of flour, besides a large ({uantity of potatoes and
bananas. A lari>e nund»er of small chiefs fnmi the
surrounding districts paid visits to us, each bringing
into camp a contribution of goats, fowls, and millet
floui'. I'rumangwa. P)Wessa, and (iunda have also
made pacts of friendship with us. These villages form
the very prospei'ous and extensively cultivated district
which so astonished us by its abundance one Decend)er
nioi'uing last year.

Towards evening I rcccivc(l a connnunication from
Musiri, saying that as nil the land had made [)cace with
me, he wished to be reckoned as my friend, and that
the next time 1 should retui-n lo the country he would
be ])repared with suitable gifts foi- us.

As to-niorr(»\v 1 j>i'ojM»se to resume the journey
towards Fort liodo and Yaml)uya. let me set down wh.it
1 have gleane<l from the I'a.sha respecting himself

1R88.
May :iO,

Ndusunia.

■h^^iEHIb*

;,-^:

412

IN DARKEST JFj!JiA.

(1LAPTER XVn.

persoxa;. to the pasha.

Ago and early days of Fniin Pasha — Gordon and the pay of Emin P-xsha
—Lost interview witli (Jordon Pa.slia in 1 877 — Eniin's last supply of
iiinmnnition and i)rovisions — Five years' isolation — M.aokay's library
in Uganda — Eniin's altilitios and fitness for his ])osition — His
linguistic and other attainments — Eniins indnstry • — His neat
journals — Story j'c!atc<l to me by Shnkri Agha referring to Eniin's
escajie from Kirri to !\Iswa — Emin contirnis the story — Some natural
hisiory facts reliit'') to nie by Emin — The Paslia and the Uinka
tribe — A lion stoiy Emin and " bird studies."

It is not my purpose to iiinko a l)iooTaplii('al skctfli of
Kiiiiu Pasha. !)iit to t'urnish such items of information
as he delivered tliem to me, day l)y day, eoneernin<!; the
life he has led in the Soudan, and his ae<|uaintance with
his illustrious chief — the evei'-lamented (Gordon.

By birth he is a (Jerman, hut whether Austrian oi-
Prussian \ know not, and I have no .'ui'iosity to know
the name of the ohseure village or town where that
event happened. He declares he is forty-eioht yeai's
old, and nnist thei'cfore have heen horn in the year
IS4(). I fancy that he must have been young when lu;
ai'rived in Constantinople, that some great man assisted
iiim in his nu'dical studie.-^, that thi'ough the same
influence ])rol)al>ly lie entered the Turkish service, and
became medical atten<L'int on Isniaii Ilakki Pasha. If
for thirt\' vears he has served under the crescent Haii' as
he himself reported, he nmst have begun his service in
Turkey in the yeai' \H^)H. He became attracted to the
"Young Turk" party, or to th(> reform ])ai'ty, in
Stambonl. It had an organ, which, bv its bold
advocacy of rcjbiin, W(M ihree times suppressed by the

EMU

AS/fi.

44;

' of Eniin Pislia
s liist supply of
Iiu'kay's lil)rary
l)OHitinii — His
ry — His iieut
iTiiis to Emin's
—Some natunil
and the Uiiika

autlioritio

fjoiii the coiuiii'v.

Tr, tiie lust .supp'T,- ■ion

r wa

A\vd

lie admits that he was in ■ 'oMsr-nviiiioph' when tl

assassination of the Sultan .\'cinl X/a'a occurred, thouuli

le was ahsen

t dur

the I

oi I hose susnet

ipe(

•ted to 1

concerned in it. Coming toi{l»i\pt in Deeeniher. 1875.
he entered the Ruyptian serviee, antl was despatched tc
Khartoum.

Otmlon first appointed nu

jis suroeon ar L'2i) a

).-,

mo]i

th. Tie then raised me to -£-^0, and aftei' my
lission to I u'unda he snr})rised me with increasinu' m\'
pay to £40, hut when 1 hecame (Jovernor of this j'j-o-
vinc mv pay like other l*rovii;ciaI (Jovei'nors' hecame
i'aO monthly. What the pay of a (Jeneral i^ I do not
know, hut then i am only a ' M Iranian.' a kind of
civilian Pasha, who reeeives pa}' while emphned, l)ut
immediatelv his services are not reijuired he hecomes
unpaid. I expected to he made a military Pasha — a
(General of Division. '

*ent Hao' as

JOW

at Khai'toun

anv advi(,'e from n.

(Jordon appointed the (Jerman \'ice-( 'onsul
1 as my i:^enr. t > ret'civc my pay. without

'>OMt [[.

oi several nion

hel

ieve it was pj

' I)

hill

i ivuuiarlv

ths 1
lint tinallv

(loi'dcn appointed the ,-,ame \'i('e-( onsul Uo. cj-nor of
.l)arfonr. wheii he sho;'i!\ ;;fter died. Wlicii his clfecls
were ' 'llected ;'.nd his .-.u.dl dehts paid, there wei'e
found sutHcient funds to present liis wife with I'.'jOO

ind

■^ClK

I h
1

t<t ('air<>. and r«t ti'ansfcr ,£.')() to m\'

A f

cw iiioni h.~

iftcr-

aeeount as ins priiu ij)al ocditor.
wards Kharto'im l(=ll, and what money had hc,-)i de-
po.>ited Hun'e after the \ ice ( 'oiisnls deadii was i((st of
course. So that for eiulit vears I ha\'e received no [»ay
at all."

Mv last inter\iew witli (h)V<!oii Pasha was in IS

t I

TIk'I' had IxH'n an Ex[)e(lition s«uit Ic. ! )arfonr. un<ler
Colonel Prout, and another under Colonel Purdy, for

444

AV DARKEST AFRICA.

survey work. Wuen Gordon })e('ame Crovernor-Oeneral,
he re(|ue'iLc<l Stone Pasha, at Cairo, to despatch to liini
one of tliese officers, for survey work ir the Equatorial
Province. Gessi Pasha had ah'eady circumnavigated
the Al})ert, but his survey was hy compass only. Both
Prout Bey and Mason Bey were capital observers.
Prout Bey was the first to arrive. He travelled from
La<lo to Fatiko, thence to Mruli, on the Victoria Nile,
and from there he proceaded to Magungo, on the Albert
Nyanza, and by a series of observations he fixed the
position of that point for all time. Illness compelled
him to retire to my station at Lado. Just then Mason
Bey arrived in a steamer, to survey the Albert Lake,
and by that steamer I received an order to descend to
Khartoum, to be made Governor of j\lassowah, on the
Bed Sea. The French Consul of that place had a mis-
understanding with the civil Gcjvernor there, and he
had begged that if another (liovernor was appointed, he
shouhl be some person who couhl understand P^reiich.
I supT)ose Gordon, knowing me to be familiar with the
language, had elected me. On reaching Khartoum I
Avas very cordially received l)y Goi'don, and he insisted
on my taking my meals with him, which was a great
favour, as he seldom invited anybody to eat with him.
However, I declined living in the palace, and break-
fasted at home, but lunch and dinner Gordon insisted I
should take with him. He had abundance of work for
me — letters to the Egyptian Pashas and Ijcvs of the
various provinces; letters to the C*atholic Mis-;ion of
({on(h)kor() ; letters to the Pope, to the Khedive, &c., in
Italian, (xerman, and Arabic. This went on for scmie
time, when one day he sent me on a mission to Unyoro.
A little later I ascended the river, and 1 have n 'ver
seen Gordon since."

^7 ^qT *!«■ ^T

" In June, 1882, Abdul Kader i^isha wi'ote me that in
a couple of months he would despatch a steamer to me
with provisions and annnunition. After waiting nine
months T obtained fifteen cases only of ammunition, in
March, 188.S. That is really the last !*iupply of anything

ill

^it

I '

EMIN PASHA.

445

received from tlie outside world until your recent arrival
in April, 1888. Five years exactly !"

7|t 7|f fp •!• "V

" Durinii' ^' 'c vears I have remained isolated in this
region ; not idle, I hope. I have heen kept i»usy in
the ati'airs of my Province, and have managed to iind
pleasure in many things. Still, the isolation frcmi the
civilized world h; ^ made li+'c rather Ijurthensome. I
could enjov life here to the end, could 1 hut obtain
regular news, and was certain of comnmnication with
the outer world, receive ])ooks, periodicals, every month,
two months, or even three months. I en\ >' those
missionaries in Uganda who I'cceive their monthly
packet of letters, newspapers and hooks. Mr. Mackay
has quite a library in L gaiida. That packet of ■" honey
dew" tobacco I gave you the other day I obtained fr(;m
him. I received also a couple of bottles of licjuor, have
had clothes, writing paper, and such news as I know I
discovered in the Spi'ctatovs and Times now and then
sent me by him. But there are certain books upon
su1)jects which I am interested in that I could never
obtain through him without giving him and his friends
far too great a trouble. Therefore I should wish a postal
service of mv own, then niv life would Ijc relieved of its
discontent. Ah, those eight years of silence ! 1
cannot put my feelings in words. I could not endure
them again."

*Afc Ah A ^.

yf* 1? *Iv 'tT

I have already described his person and age. and cer-
tain qualities of his character may })e discerned in the
conversation reported above ; still, the man would be
scarcely understood in the full compass of his nature if
I stopped here. His abilities, and capacity, and fitness
for the singular position in which he has been placed
will be seen in the manner in which he has managed to
clothe many of his troops. Among the gifts he pressed
upon us were pieces of cotton cloth woncii by his own
men, coarse but strong, and slippers and shoes from his
own bootmakers. The condition of his steamers and
boats after such long service, the manufacture of oil

' r . ' - . Jt

44t)

IN D AUK EST AFL'ICA.

limp

iii|iiti

siiital)lo for the eiiuines (a mixture of scsamum oil and
tallow), tlic t'XccllcHt saiiitai'v arraiiiiciiu'iits and clcan-
lini'ss and order of the stations uncU'i' his chai'oe, tlie
regnlar and ungrudnini;' payment of corn ti'ihnte twice
a year l)y his negro suWjccts. all serve to demonstrate
a uni(|uc character, and to show that he j)()ssesses talents
rarely seen in those who sekct Africa for their field of
hd)our. In endeavonring to estimate him, 1 pass in
mental review hundi-eds of officers who have served on
the Nile and the Con<>(), and I know of liut few who
wonld l)e e([ual to him in any one of his valnaMe (^nali-
ties. Besides his lini>iiistic attaimnents. he is a natu-
ralist, something of a hotanist, and, as a surgeon, I can
well helieve that thirty years of an adventurous life
such as his has ])een would furnish him with rare oppor-
tunities to make him wise and skilful in his profession.
The language he has used, as may be seen above, is
something higher than colhxjuial, and marks his attain-
ments in English. With his full sonorous voice and
measured tones, it sounded very pleasantly, despite the
foreign accent. Upon any policy treated of in news-
papers and reviews I found him exceedingly well
informed, no matter what country was l»roached. His
mannei' is highly courteous and considerate, s(jmewliat,
perhaps, too ceremonious for Central Africa, hut highly
becoming a (4overnor, and such as one mio;ht expect
from an official of that rank, conscious of serious respon-
sil)ilities.

Industrv seems to be a vital necessitv of life with him.
He is a model of painstaking patient effort. No sooner
has he camped than he begins to effect arrangements
orderly and after method. His tal)le and chair ha\e
their place, his journals on the table, the aneroids on a
convenient stand, dry and wet bulb thermometers duly
exposed in the shade, with ample air-flow about them.
The journals are marvels of neatness — blotless, and the
writing microscopically minute, as though he aimed at
obtaining a prize for accuracy, economy, neatness and
fidelitv. Indeed, most (Jermans of mv ac(|uaintance are
remarkal)le for the bulk of their oljservations and super-

KMIX I'ASIIA.

447

fine cali^rapliy, wliile En,i;'lisli-sp(','il- iiio- travcllcM's wlioni

I Iwive known possess noto-liooks wliicli. nseful as they

may })e to thi'inselvcs, \voul<l a})pc'ai' ill-kept. Itloteliv

and scrawly in comparison to them, and fuinisli iiiHiiite

trouble to their executors to edit.

* m * %

The I'olhnvin^i;- will illustrate somethiun' of his troubles
durino- the five years he has heen cut oil" from head-
<|uarters at Khartoum.

Shukri Agha. Commandant of Mswa station, who
paid me u visit uw the eveninijf of the I i)th May, relates
that about a year a!j;o 190 ri ties of the First Jiattalion
set out from Rejaf Station for Kirri, whei-e the l*aslia
resided, with the intent to capture and hold him
captive anions' themselves. A letter had been received
ii\m\ Dr. Junker fi-om Cairo, statin_i»' that an expedition
w^as to be sent to their relief, had created a confused
impression in the minds of the soldieis of the First
Battalion that their (Jovernor intended to tlv in that
direction, leaving them to their fate. Convinced that
their safety lay in the presence of their Civil (Jovernor
among them, they conceived the idea of arresting him
and taking him with them to Rejaf, which, with the
more northern stations, was ffiirrisoned bv this })attalion.
" F(n'," said they, '*we know only of one road, and that
leads down the Nile by Khartoum." * The Pasha was
suddenly informed of their intention ])y the officers of
the Second Battalion, and cried out, " Well, if they kill
me, I am not afraid of death ; let them come — I will
await them." This the officers of the Second Battalion
at Kirri w^(>uld not permit, and implored him to make
his escape before the malcontents appeared, and argued
that " the violent capture and detention of the Ciovern<»r
w^ould put an end to all government, and })e the total
ruin of all discipline." For s(mie time he refused to
move, l)ut finally, yielding to their solicitations, escaped
to Mswa. Soon after his departure the detachment of

* The correspondence these people maintained with Khartoum compel
me to doubt whether tliis is the correct reason. Read Omar Hale's letter
to the Khalifa at Khartoum, farther on.

f r-t

Pljl!"

t . .h

I ■ i

44H

IX DAL'KEST AFllICA.

the First I^iittalion cippuurol. and, after surrouiidiiio- the
station, ei'ied out a {K'reniptory demand that tlie
Governor should come out and deliver himself to them.
They were answered that the (iovernor had already
departed south to Mu^'^i and Wadelai, upon which the
mutineers advanced to the station, and seized the
C'onnnandant and his subordinate officials, and soundly
tio,u,i;ed them with the kurhash, and afterwai'ds took
most of them prisonei's and carried them to Kejaf,
whither they returned.

Shukri Ai^ha continued thus : — " You must know that
all the First l)attalion ^i^uard the northern stations, and
every soldier of that l)attalion is opposed to making any
retreat, and any sui;oestion of leaving their watch post
at Rejaf, the northernmost station, only makes them
indignant. They have heen all along waiting to hear
of the ai'rival of a steamer at Lado, and are still firm in
the helief that some (hiy the Tasha at Khartoum will
send for them. Whatever the Pasha says to the con-
trary receives utter dishelief. But now that you have
arrived by an opposite road, and scmie of us who were
with Linant ViQX in i875 saw you in Uganda, and many
more of us have known you by name, it is most likely
all of them will be convinced that the Nile is not the
only road to Egypt, and that you, having found them,
can take them out of the countrv. Thev will see vour
officers, they \\'\\\ see your Soudanese, they will listen
respectfully to your message, and gladly obey. That
is my own opinion, though (lod only knows what th<'
sentiments of the First Battalion are by this time, as
sufficient time has not elapsed to enable us to he;ir
from them."

AL. A|« Jti «b Ab

•IP *^ fff vff TIP

On telling Emin Pasha the next day the stoiy of
Shukri Agha. he said : —

"Shukri Agha is a very intelligent and brave officer,
promoted to his present rank for distinguished service
against Ivaramalla, one of the ^lahdi's generals, when
he came here with some thousands to demand our
surrender to the authoritv of Mohamed Achniet."

EMIN J'A.SJ/A.

U\)

" Ilis story is ((iiito trno. oxcopt that lie has omittod to

niciitiou th>it with the 1 1)0 ritk's of tlic First liattalion

there were 1)00 armed neuroes. Siil>se(|iieiitly I leariie«l

that it had Ihmmi their intention to have taken me to

(l<)n<h)kor(), and detain me there nntil the <>arris()ns of

the soutliern stations, Waih'hii, 'I'uni'nru, a!id Msvva,

were eoHeeted, and then to have marched ah»n^i;' the

ri<J!;ht hank towards K]iart(aim. On reachin<;' the nei,i;li-

hourhoo<l of Khartoum, and there h^ai'iiin^' tiiat the city

had really faHen, they weie then to disperse, each to

his own house, h'avin^ the Cairenes and myself to shift

as we might for ourselves." *

* •* * * *

The following are some natural history hiets he
related to me :—

" The forest of Msongwa (see map) is infested with a
large trihe of chimpanzees. In sumiiiei- time, at night,
they freijuently visit the phmtations of Mswa station to
steal the fruit. But what is remarkal)h' about this is the
fa,(;t that they use torches to light the way ! Had 1
not witnessed this extraordinary spectacle personally
] shouhl never have ci'edited that any of the Simians
understood the art of making tire."'

'"One time these same chim2)anzees stole a native
drum from the staticm, and went away pounding meri-ily
on it. 'I'hey evi(U'ntly delight in that drum, for I have
freijuently heard tliem rattling away at it in the silence
of the night."

He ol)sei'ved tliat parrots are never seen along the
shores of Lake Albert. Up to lat. 2*^ N. they are seen
in Unyoro, l)ut the Lake i)eople (h> not seem to under-
stand what is refei'red to when parrots are mentioned.

Our people captured a pair of very young mongoose,
which were taken to the Pasha. They were accepted,
and ordered to be nursed (m milk. He declared that
the monQ:oose, thouuh he becomes very tame and is
exceedingly droll, is a nuisance. Instruments arc

* Knowinp^ this, the Pasha seems to me to have been very imprudent
in adventuring into the presence of these reV)eIs without satisfying

liimself as to the effect his presence would have on them.
VOL. I.

J) 1)

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

4^0

1.0

I.I

m. 12.5

1^ ^

us
us

■ 40

2.2

2.0

1.25

||U|1,.6

•• 6"

►

4V^

fliotographic

Sciences

Corporation

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 672-4503

t .

1 I

I ^■

400

JN DAItKEST AFRICA.

ln'okcii, ink scnttcrod, papers nnd Ixxiks are smearo<1
and soiled ))y this intjuisitive little heast. To e<i^os ii
is cs[)e('ia]]y destructive. Ii' it finds an e^,H' of nioic
than ordinai'v Jiai'd shell, it lifts it with its fore-feet and
lets it drop until it is broken.

'I'he I'asha has much to say res})e(;tin<»" the Dinkas.
l*ro[)rietors of cattle among the Dinka tribe own from
:{00 to 1500 head. Thev rarelv kill, their cattle hein-
kept solely for their milk and blood. The latter they
mix with sesanmm oil, and then eat as a delicac^y. At
the death of a herd-owner his nearest kinsman invites
his friends, and one or two beeves may be slaunhtercMJ
for the funeral feast ; otherwise one scarcely ever heais
of a Dinka killing- his cattle for meat. Sluudd one of
the liei'd die a natural death, the love of meat demands
that it be eaten, which is a proof that conscience does
m)t prohibit satisfying the stomach with meat, but
rather exces.-ive ])enuriousness, cattle being the Dinkas
wealth.

Tliese Dinkas also pay great reverence to pythons and
all kinds of snakes. One of the Sou<hinese officers killed
a snake, and was compelled to pay a fine of four goats.
They even (hmiesticate them, keej)ing them in their
houses, but they are allowed every liberty, and to crawl
out for i)rey, after which they return for rest and sleep.
They wash the pythons with milk and anoint them
with butter. In almost every hut the smaller snakes
may ))e heaid I'ustling in the roofs as they (;rawl,
exploring for rats, mice, etc.

On the east side of the Nile he found a tiibe ex-
ceedingly partial to lions ; in fact, one of them would
prefer to be killed than be guilt}- of the death of a lion.
These people dug a pit at one time for buflaloes and
such ganie to fall into, but it unfortunately ha{)pen(Ml
that a lion was the first victim. The Soudanese who
discovei'ed it were about to kill it, when the chief vetoed
th(^ act and imploreil that the lion should be given to
him. The Soudanese wei'c willing enough, and curiously
wat(;hed what he would do with it. The chief cut a
long stout pole and laid it slantwise to the bottom of

EMIS I'ASIIA.

461

are smeared

tlie Dinkas.
le own from

cattle l)eiiiL:
i latter they
elicacy. At
miaii invites

.slau^-^hteretl
y ever heai's
lould one of
3at demands
seience does
I meat, but

the Dinka's

the pit, nj) wliicji the lion immediately climbed and
bounded away to the iun<ile to enjoy his liberty, it
should be added that the noble beast did not attempt

to injure any person near the pit — [)robal)ly he was too

friu'litened ; thouiih as })rettv a storv miuht be made out

fit as that of Androcles and the lion, did we not live

m such a veracious and prosaic a^e.

" Bird stu«lies,"' the .^ray- haired lieutenant from
Cairo declared, were the Pasha's delight. Indeed, he
seems to find as i^reat pleasure in anything;- relatin<;' to
birds or animals as in his military and civil duties,
though I have not observed any ne«>lect of the last, and
the respectful soldierly bearing' of his people in his
presence marks a disci[)line well impressed on them.

From the above lileaniniis of such conversation as T
have noted it will be clear to anv one that the Pasha has

had

a varuM

1 life,

<nie

that

W( »u

Idf

urnis

h t(

> (luier nonn

k( c;^';i^ people much valuable and enchanting" readin;;
matter, it may be hoped he will see fit some day to
exhibit to them in book form some of his startlinii' life

mcK

lentf

A.^

la an<

1 Afi
.ftl

ica. aiK

I rel

learse in ins own

pleasmti manner some ot the most interesting observations
he has made durinj' a Ion*"' residence amid a new and
wild nature.

ill

( ,

' ' H i

V'Wi

18HH.
.luilK I.

Mukaiigi.

452

JN JJAJiKluST AFlllVA.

CHAPTER XVIIT.

START FOR THE RELIEF OF THE REAR COLUMN.

Escorted by various tril«3s to ^lukaii^i — Camp at Tkuba villafjje — Arrival
at Fort Rodo — Our invalids in Ugarrowwa's care — Lieutenant Stairs'
rei)ort on his visit to bring up the invalids to Fort, JJodo — Night
visits l)y the malicious dwarfs— A general muster of the garrison— I
decide to conduct the Relief Force in person— Captain Nelson's ili-
I'.ealth- My little fox-terrier "Randy" — J)escription of the fort —
The Zanzibaris — Kstiniated time to perform the journey to Yambnya
and l)ack — Lieutenant Stairs' suggestion about the steamer Stdnlni
- Conversation with Ijieutenant Stairs in reference to Major Rarttelot
and the Rear Column — Letter of instructions to Lieutenant Stairs.

On the 1st of Juno, escorted l>y u score of JMuziiniltoiiis
people, we iiiarclied westvvai'd from rndussiiinu. In an
liour and a half we reached l:rumano\va. Tliis district
furnisjied an escort of al)out a hundred, the Mazand)onis
witlidrawini;- to tlieir lionies. At Unyaljon^o, after a
two liours' march, tlie people of Urumanowa likewise
withdrew, yieldin<^- their honoural)le duties to the peo{)le
of the new district, and these escorted us fo' an hour
and a half, and saw us safely housed and almndantly
fed at Mukanoji. For a sjiort time before the latter
place we were di'awn up in Itattle aiTay, and a fioht was
imminent, hut th" courai^e and o()()d sense of its cliief
ena'aled both parties to avoid a useless rupture.

A ojood example has its imitators as well as l)ad
examples. The chiefs of Wcnnhola and Kamette heaid
how quickly we had embraced the friendly otters of
Mukan,L!,i, and when we marched throuofh their distiiets
the next ihxy not one war-cry was heai'd or a liostile fiourc
appeai'ed. Those of Kaii..'.tte called out to us to keep on
our way, it is true, ])ut it was just, as we liad no business
in Kameite, and the day was yet youno; ; but on our
arrival at the next village, (Tku)>a, we were tired, and
disposed to rest after a five hours' march. But I'kuba,

THE SILENCE OF THE FOJiEST.

458

of Bess(' (listi'K't, had already oxpericnccd our weapons
on the 12th A{)i'il last, and we were permitted to camp
(piietly. At sunset we were gratified at seeing several
of the natives walking unarmed to camp, and in the
morning they came again with presents of a milch goat,
some fowls, and enough })lantains for all.

On the l]rd we pressed on rapidly, and captured the
canoes to ferry our party across the Ituri. which, though
there had ])een hut little rain of late, we found to he as
full as in rainy April.

On the next day we captured a woman of Mande
after crossing the river, and released her to tell her
people that we were harndess enough if the road was
undisturbed. It may extend the are;' over which peace
hetween us and the natives is estal>lished.

On the 5th we camped at Bahuiu. and on the next
day at W. Indenduru. On the 7th a seven hours' march
brought us to a stream called Mi wale lli\er, from the
great nund)er of rapliia palms : and the next day wj
entered Fort Bodo, bringing with us six head of cattle,
a Hock of sheep and goats, a few loads of native
tobacco, four gallcnis of the Pasha's wldsky, and some
other little luxuries, to joy the hearts of the garrison.

Su(;h an utter silence prevails in the forest that we
were mutually ii»norant of each other's fate during
our sixty-seven (hiys' separation. Until we approached
within 400 yards of Fort Bodo we could not divine
what had beccmie of Tieutenant Stairs, who, it will be
remembered, had been despatched on the Kith Februaiy
to ligarrowwa's to conduct such convalescents as (;ould
be found there to us to share in such fortune as might
happen to us in the open country, whose very view-
had proved so medicinable to our men. Nor could the
garrison guess what luck had lia])pened to us. But
when our I'ities woke up the slee|)ing echoes of the
forest with their volleys, the sounds had scarcely died
away before the rifles of the gairison responded,
and as we knew that Fort Bodo still existed, those
imnmied within the limits of the clearing became aware
that we had returned from the Nvanza,

1H88.
June 2,

Ukuba.

'■fl

?■,;; .

... i

1888.
June H.

Flirt liodi

454

IX DM! K EST AFIIICA.

LicuU'iiiiiit Stairs was first to show hiinsolf and hail
us, and closi' after him (^aptaiii Nclsini, Intth in cxccllcnr
condition, hut of i-athcr [)asty conipk'xion. Their men

icn canic ti'oo|)in<j^ uj), ('xuncrant joy spaikhnii m

their eyes and ,nlowin<i^ in theii- faces, for tliese chihli'cii
of Natun know not tlie art of conceal in i»' tlieir moods or

disnuisnin- their eni<>tions.

But, alas! lor my estimates. Since I have entere<l
the forest reuion thev have aiwavs lieen on the erring
side. After computing carefully, as 1 thou<;ht, eveiy
mile of the course to he travelled and every o])stacIe
likely to 1k' met l»y him and his liuhtly-laden escort, 1
was certain liieutenant Stairs would he with us after an
al)sence of thirty-nine (biys. We stayed forty-seven days,
as we were assured it would please him to he present
at the successful termination or <'rownin,u' triumj)h of

our (

Hort.^

II<

e arrived alter seventv-one days ahsenct

and hy that (hite we had already commuiiieated with
Em in I'asha.

1 had estimated also that out of the fifty-six invalids
left in the care of LJuarrowwa. and hoarded at our
exj)ense, at least forty convalescents would he ready, fit
for marchinn-. hut Mr. Stairs found most of them in
worse con«lition than when they parte<l from us. All
the Somalis were dea<l except one. and the survivor hut
lived to reach Ipoto. Out of the fifty-six there were
hut thirty-foui' remaining'. ( >ne of these was .luma. with
f(H»t amputated ; three wereahsent fora^ini;. < )ut of the
thirty sorry hand of living' skeletons deli\-ere(l to him
fourteen die<l on the road, one was left at lp(»to, the
remaining;' fifteen survived U) exhihit theii' mide hodies
(Hsfinured hy the loathliest colours and effects of chronic
disease. The followino' is the letter descrihino" Mi'.
Stairs' remai'kahle journey, which am})ly accounts for
his detention : —

"Fort Boilo. Tl)\viii, rnitnil Afrini,
«yj,j_ "./»»'"V//, LS8S.

" I Inivo the liononr to vo])ort that in iiconnliUiccwitli vour orders
of tlic 15tli Fc-iiruary. 18SH, I loft this phicc on the Kith of tliat month
witli an oscort of twenty eouriens and other details, to proceed to
Ugarro ,vwa's station on tlie Itnri, forward the couriers on their journey to

I !li

nEMAUKMil.E JOVnSEY BY Mil. S'l'MllS.

■\^u^

li your ordcrfi
•f tliat iiioiitli
() proceed tn
c'ir journey to

Major Biirttelut'scoliinni, relieve; tlie iiiViilids left in cliiirge ot rj:;iirro\v\\ii.

iitid briiin tlieiii on to tins station.
" JjCiis iii^ this pliice, then, on the IGth, we reached Kiliniani Hill viliiifie
1 the 17th. Ne.xt ilav I decided to follow a lar^e native tracl

1 sss.
.luiie X

Fort Boilo.

worn, alir)Mt two miles west «>f Kiliniani on our through track to I|iot(»;
aecoi'dingl.v we started off this u|» till 11 a.m. After we had };one this
leujith, the track struck too much to the north and east; J therefore
looked for other tracks, liopiMt;' l)y foilowinj:; one to at hist j^'et on to a

I a rue r(»ad

aiK

I til

us work through t( the Ihur\i. Findinu' one. we

followed it up some two mihs or .so, and then found that it ended
aliruptly, and no further trac<' could he found of it. KetMriiing to our
tbrmer road we moved on, and that da\ lade four more endeavours to
;,'et north-west or .somewhere m that dii'ection; late at \\'\y(\\\ we canifxid,
just liefore dari<. liavin;:,' found a hlazcMl track. On the next day, lIHli, we
followed this track north-west at a fa.st rate, and about 10 a.m. came on
to an old villa}i:e. The Ida/.es here ended; no further sij^iis of a track
could we find leading out of the village, though we hunted thoroughly
in every direction. Heturning again, and following a large track north-
east, we made still another try, hut here again the track ended.

" After sonu; consideration 1 returned to our camp of yesterday, and
di.'cided on following a road leailing towards Mahungu, and then take a
side road, said l»y tlie natives to lead to the lliuru, but on following this
we found it leail merely up to .some Wambutti huts, and here ran out.

" After taking my head men's opinion, I then decided on reti.. .ling
and following our old road to Ipoto, there to ]»rocure two guides and
follow on the track to Uledi's village, and there cross the Ihuru and
follow down on north side, (Vc. My reasons for doing these were: If I
should go on lik(( this, looking for tracks, I sliouhl lose pnjbably four or
five days, and this with my limited time would not be admissible; and,
.secondly, that to attempt to split our way on a bearing through the bush
to the river would take perhaps five days, which would (piite c()unter-
lialance any advantage a north road might jios.sess. Iicaching i\iIonga
Longa's on the 'J^nd, we arrange(l for a party to take us by a I'oad south
of Ituri, and on the 21th left. On the 1st of March crossecl the Lenda,
courses now N.W. and X.N.W. On the Utli reacheil Farishi, the upper
station of Ugarrowwa. On the Uth we reach(>(| rgarrowwa's,on the Jturi,
early in the morning. For many days we had been having rains, and
owing to thest! 1 sutfered very much from fevers, and on getting to

an<

I to get tlu'.sc

I'garrowwa's had to remain in bed for two day.s.

"At F.'s some eight or ten were away foraging
required three and a half days.

" Fifty-six (5G) men were left with Ugarrowwa, viz., five Somalis, tivfs
Nubians, and forty-six /anzil)aris, on the 18th of September, 1887. Of
this total twenty-six had died, including all the Somalis except Dualla.
There were still two men out when I left. Haraka W. Moussa I detail(!(|
as a courier in place of another (who hail been left at Ipoto with bad
ulcerX and Junia li. Zaid reniaine(l with Fgarrowwa.

" 'IIk^ majority of the men were in a weak state when I arrived, and on
leaving 1 refused to take seven of these. I'garrowwa, however, point
blank refused to kee]) them, so thus I was obliged to bring on men with
till' certainty of their dying f>n the march.

"Early on the Mth, Abdullah and his couriers were despatched down
river. On the 17th took our forty-four ritles t'rom I'garrowwa, and ont
of these made him a ])resent of tw(» and forty-two rounds llemington
anuuunition.

" On the 18th closed with F. for .S870, being .'^80 for twenty-nine na.'n ;
also lianded him his bills of exchange and your letter.

"^,F

! 1

IT ■

450

IHMK.

.llUH! H.

Fort iitxlo,

AV DAhKEST At'ltlCA.

"On sainrdiiy loft for Il)wiri with following.

" From the I'JtIi to '2Brd, nlu'ii I rcjiclu'd Fiirishi, the rain was constant,
making' tlu; track liciavy and tlic creeks ditticnit in crossing. From hero
on to Jpoto [ liad l)ad fiivcrs day after day, and having,' no one to carry
me, liad to make marches of five to seven miles per ilay. The constant
wettinfj;s and had roads had made all the men very low-sjiirited, sonu;
donhtinjr even that there was lielp ahead. Readied Ipoto A])ril lltli,
left 18tli ; and after more tronhle from fever r(!ached here on 'itjth Ajtril.
All j^lad to see the Fort. Dualla, the Somali, I was obliged to leave at
Ipoto. Tarn, a fornua- donkey-hoy, deserted on the road. Of tlie draft
of invalids (twenty-six) ten had died. Kihwana also died from chest
disease in camp near Mamhnngn. Ont of fifty-six invalids brought
fourteen alive to the Fort.

'•On reaching Fort Hodo 1 fcmnd you liad been so long gone that I
could not follow up with safety with the few rifles I c(»u!d command, and
so reniaintid at this station and reported myself to Captain Nelson, wIk)
was left in charge of the Fort by you.

"Floods, rains, fevers, and other illnesses had been the cause of our
hmg delay, and thf)se of us who were in fit condition at all, felt bitterly
the disa[»pointment at not being able to reach you.

" I have the honour to bo, &c.,

" W. (i. Staius, Lieut. IJ.E.

" To .M. H. Stanlkv, Esq."

Of the coiulitioii of the oanison at Fort Bodo there
vvns l)ut little to coniplaiii : the uleerous persons, though
iiothiiiir iin])i'ove(l, were not worse ; tlie anaemic victims of
the tortures of Manyuema at Tpoto had gained possi}>ly
a few ounces in weight ; the chronically indolent and
malingerers still existed to remind us hy their aspects of
misery that thev were not suita])le for the lonij and
desperate journey yet hefore us. We expected all this.
The long journey to Yamhuya and ])ack, 1,070 miles,
couM never he perfoi-med })y unwilling men. It would
})e volunteers, tired ])y interest, stimulated by the
knowledge that, this one task ended, forest miseries,
famine, damp, rain, mud, gloom, vegetable diet,
poisoned arrows, would be things and griefs of the
past ; and then the joys of the grass land, divine light,
brightness and warmth of full dav, careering of grass
l)efore the refreshing gales, the consolation of knowing
that heaven is above, and the earth, yet full of glad
life, glowinii' with beneficence and l)landness, ever before
them. Oh, gracious Ood ! hasten the day. But can
l)laek men, the " ))rutes," "' niggers," " black devils," feel
so ? AVe shall see.

One crop of Indian corn liad been harvested, and was

THE FAITHFUL ZANZIItAHIH.

4'.:

stored siiuf^ly in oi-jinuries, tlio fields were hcing piv-
jMircd anew for re|)I{intin«^, the haiiana plaiitJiliuus still
fuiiiislie<l unlimited supplies of food, the sweet potatoes
grew wild in various plaees, and there was a fair stock
of heans.

The niali(;ious dwarfs (the Wand)utti) had paid noc-
turnal visits, and rava<j^ed somewhat the corn h.'lds, and
liieut. Stairs, witli a few (rhoi(te spirits of the j^arrison,
had given chase to the marauders and had routed them,
losing one man in the action, hut scaring the undersized
thieves eti'ectually.

The Fort now contained 1 1 1) Zanzil>arisof the Advance,
four of l^hnin l*aslia's soldieis, ninety-eight Madi carriers,
and three whites from the Alhert Nyanza. hesides fifty-
seven Zaii iharis and Souchmese, and two cheers who
formed the garrison — total, 28.S .souls. It was out of
this immher we were to form a column of Zanzihari
volunteers and Madi carriers to hasten to the relief of
Major Bartteh)t and the Hear (V)lunni.

After a two days' rest a general muster was made.
The necessities of our condition were explained aloud to
them; our white brothers were labouring under (Jod
ahme knew what dithculties- -difficulties that ap{)eared
greater to them than they did to us, inasnuK^h as we
had gone througli them and survived, and could afford
to make light of them. For knowledge would teach us
to he more prudent of our rations, where to refresh our
jaded bodies, and when to hasten through the inter-
vening wildernesses, husbanding our resources. Our
meeting would rejoice our poor friends, distressed by
our long absence, nmX our good news would reanimate
the most feeble and encourage the despairing. They
all knew what treasures of cloth and beads were in
charge of the Rear C-olumn. We could not carrv all, as
indeed there was no need for so uuich. How could it
better be bestowed than on the tireless faithful fellows
who had taken their master twi(^e to the Nyanza and
back to his long-lost friends 1 " I pray you, then, come
to my side ye that are willing, and ye that prefer to
stay in the Fort remain in the ranks."

IMSH,

June «.
Fort Umliu

4r.H

IN DA UK EST AFIilVA,

h \-

1HH8. Exultln<jf in tlicir lusty .streM<;th, porfcct licalth. Jiiul

Jun.'«. jii ^j„.j,. {i('kiio\vl('(li>(»(l wcH'tli, 107 men cried aloud, '"To

Fort lioilo. ,1 \i • • '' 1. 'p .lI \i ■ I "' 1 i "1

the Aliijor! ' Lo tlie Major I and sprang to my side,
leaviiiii «»nly six, who wei'e really indisposed hy illness
and nrowi?)^- ulceis, in their places.

Those who understand men will reconni/c some
human merits exhihited on this occasi(?n, thou;^h others
may l)e as l)lin«l in [)erceivin<!; the finer traits in human
nature, as there are many utterly unaltle to perceive \\\
a picture the touches which hetray the masterful hand
of a i^reat paintei", or in a poem the yrace and smooth-
ness, comhined with vi^jjour an<l truth, of the true })oet.

After selectin<;" out a few of the garrison to re])lace
those unahle to nntlertake the lono march Itefore us,
thcM'e remained oidy to distribute twenty-five days'
rations of Indian corn to each mend)er of the Kelief
Konte, and to advise that in addition each man and liov
should prepaie as nmch plantain flour as he could
carry

Until the evening' of the 15th of .lune all hands were
cm^a^cd in reducinii; the hard corn with pestle and
mortar and sieve into flour, or corn rice, called " grits. "
in peelin<>' the plantains, slicin<;', dryin<; them on woo*i
ujratin*;' over a slow fire, and poundin<; them into fine
flour. 1. on my part, besides arranging the most need-
ful necessaries recjuired for general uses, had many j)er-
sonal details to attend to, such as repairs of pantahtoiis.
shoes, chair, unduella, rain-coat, etc.

My intention was to conduct the Relief Force in
person, unattended ])y any officers, for many reasons,
but muiniy because eveiy European implied increase of
baggage, which was now re<juired to be of the very
smallest limit consistent with the general safety.
Besides, liieut. Stairs, in my opinion, deserved rest after
his tri}) to Ipoto to bring the steel boat to Fort iJodo.
and his journey to Ugarrowwa's was to conduct tlic
('(mvalescents. Captain Nelson, ever since the lattei-
ii])er, 1 887, had l)een ;

Sep

)ject

varying complaints- first ulcers, then a general debility
which almost threatened his life, then skin eruptions,

.'ill.

" 7^ J ND y " 77/ A' FOX- TElilt li:U.

450

I l>v illness

lunil)a<i«t, tender feet, and tits of ohstiimte ',\<x\\q. To ii
person in such a vitiated condition of Mood a journey of
the kind alxjut t<) he uiuleitaken \V(»nld d<tid»tless j)rove
fatal. Dr. Pai'ke. the only other ottieer availini;,', was
needed for the sick at the Foit. as in truth the entire
li'arrison (tonsistecl maiidy of people retpiirini; medical
atten«lance and treatment.

With orcat ditticulty we were aide to select fourteen
men of the garrison to accompany Captain Nelson as far
as Ipoto, to convev the dozen loads of haiii'asj'e still
remainin<jj there ; hut as we were ahout to start, the
Captain was prostrated with anothei- attack of inter-
mittent fever, and a stranue swelling!; <>f the hand, which
made it neeessary for Dr. Parke to re{)lace him for this
short journey.

The faithful little fox-terrier " Kandy," which had
home the fati,i!,ues of the douhle march to the Alhei't
Nyanza so well, and had heen such a u'ood friend to us
in an hour of great need, and had heconie the pet of
every one, though " Han«ly " would not permit a Zan-
zihnri to approach me unannounced, was committed to
the care of Lieutenant Stairs, in the hope of saving
him the thousand-mile joui'ney now before us. Hut
the poor (h)g misjudged my purpose, and I'esolutely re-
fused his food fr<mi the moment 1 left him, and on
the third day after my departure he died of a hntken
heart.

Upon carefully considering the state of the Fort, and
the c(mdition of its garrison, and the capacity of its
(.V)mman(hint, lieut. Stairs, who would he assisted by
(^aptain Nelson and Dr. Parke, I felt the utmost
assurance that, with sixty rifles and al»un<bint stores of
ammunition, they were invulnerahle from any attack of
forest natives, however strong their forces might he. A
wide and deep ditch ran I'cuind two-thirds of it. At
each of its angles a commanding platform, closely fenced,
had been erected, with ap[)roaclies and flanks duly under

.June H.

Fnlt r.o.io

•iHe

rano;e, and eacn anoie wasc^onnec

'ted by

I contnnious

stockade, well banked w^th earth without and supported
within by a lirm bancpiette. The main roads leading to

460

IN DAIlh'KST AFltlCA.

1888.
June M.

Fort boilii

> \'

{\w Koi't woro also ti'iiccd, to serve MS «)l».stnicti(His. The
villn<i;<' iiilmlutctl hy the «^^anison lay on tlic side
mi protects 1 l>y the diteli, and was arranged in \' sliape,
to mask the eiitiance into tlie Kort. I)ni'ini»' davliuht
no liostih' party coidd appi-oacli witliin 150 yards of
the Fort mipeiceive«l. At ni<^lit ten sentries wouhl l»e
Hurtieient precaution against surprise and Hre.

Tliis proteetion was not so nuieh (h'sioiied auainst
natives ah)ne us against a possil»le and l)y no means
unlikely ('ond>ination of Manyueiiia with natives. As
mu(^li mi^ht be ur<j;ed for the likelihood of such a
eond>ination asa^^ainst it ; hut it is a totally wronuj poliev
to l>e idle hefore an uncertain issue, and of the hundreds
of camps or stations estahlished hy me in Africa, noi
one has heen selected without considering every near or
remote continuencv.

I was ahout to leave Fort Bodo without the least
anxiety respecting the natives and Manyuema, as also
without fear of incompati])ility between the officers and
Zaijziharis. The officers were now uc(|uainted with the
language (jf their people, as well as with their various
habits, tempers, and moods, and the men could ecpially
distinguish those of their officers. Both parties also
believed that their stay at Fort Bodo was not likely to
be protracted, as the I'asha had pnmiised to visit them
within two months, and from a visit of one of his
considerate and thoughtful character they might surely
infer they would derive pleasure as well as profit. On
his return to the Nyanza they could acc(mij)any him,
abandoning the Fort to its fate.

Of the fidelity of the Zanzibaris there was also no
room for doubt. However tyrannical or unjust the
officers might be — an extreme conjectuie — the Zanzi-
baris could only choose between them on the (me hand,
and the cannibalism of the Wambutti and the incarnate
cruelty of the JNbmyuema on the other.

Would that I could have felt the same confidence
and contentment of mind regarding the Rear (\)lunni.
With the lapse of months had been the increase of my
anxiety. As week after w^eek had flown by, my faith

> (.

as TIM. I TES F JO ( 7/ XF VS.

4fll

in its sati'ty Inul licconic \v(^., ihmI niul my juiml
l"iiti<;iu'(l — with the i'ontimuil <M»iitli('t <>t' its hopes and
(louhts, witli the crejition of ingenious and Hue thi'oiies,
and tlieir no K'ss sni>th' (U'niolition, was, perforce, eon-
strained for its own rep<>se and healtli to foihear
thonujht and take iefuii;e in the tinn heiief that th<'
Major was still at Yamhuya, hnt abandoned. Our
duty was, thei'ef«)re, to proceed to Yand>uya, select tiie
most necessary material e(jual to our carrying" force, and
march hack to the Nyanza again with what speed we
mi,u;ht.

On this supposition [ framecl an estimate of the time
to he occu[)ied hy the journey, and handed it, with a
letter of instructions, to the (\)mmandant of the Kort
for his use : —

IHSH.
.llllK- A.

Furt lioda

" Wliori'iis the distance between Fort Hodo to the Nyanza is V2^} miles,
iiinl 1ms been performed in 2o8 hours' marciiing, or 7t days, inclusive of
lialts.
" Whereas wo travelled the distance from Yamhuya to Ugarrowwa's

in 2S9 hours = 74 days.

" Whereas Liciutcnaut Stairs marched from Ugarrowwa's

to Fort Uodo in 26 „

ino „

" Therefore our journey to Yambnya will probably oocnjty 100 days,
and the same period back. From June IGth, 18HH, to January 2nd,
li'Hy, is 20(1 days. We may reasonably be expected on January 2nd
at Fort liodo, and on the 22ud of the sjime montJi at Lake All>ert.

" Or thus : Starting June IGth, 1«88 :—

" Fort Bodo to .

. Ugarrowwa's

. July 5th

Thence to

. Avisibba .

. „ 2r,th

>> )»

. Mupe

. Aug. Utli

»♦ »»

. Yamlmya .

. Sept. 8rd

Halt 10 days .

—

„ IHth

Itetuni to

. Mu])e

. Oct. Hrd

}f 9> •

. Panga Falls

. „ 2;ird

99 »» •

. Fort bodo

. JJec. 22n(l

Halt 5 days

—

. „ 27th

Thence to

. Albert Nyanza

. Jan, T •, 1

1889."

The last evening of my stay at Fort Bodo, wliile re-
citing over the several charges, general and personal,
entrusted to him, Lieut. Stairs suggested that perhaps
the non-arrival of the steamer Stanley at Yani])uya

I If

m •

i ■

i ?

I|!'!'

Ill i

• i

1888.
June H.

Fort IJodo.

462

IN DABKEHT AFRICA.

ncoounted for the utter sileiK^e respectino- the Rear
Column. I then replied in the following terms : —

" That is rather a cruel suggestion, my dear sir ; that
is the least 1 fear, for as well as I was ahle I provided
aoainst that accident. You must know that wlien the
Sfmtli'i/ departed from the Yambuya on the 28th of June,
1 delivered several letters to the captain of the steamer.
One was to mv uood friend Lieut. Liehrichts, (Governor
of Stanley Pool district, charging him, for old friend-
ship's sjtke, to despatch the steamer back as soon as
possible with our goods and reserve amnumition.

"Another was to Mr. Swinburne, my former secretary,
who was the soul of fidelity, to the effect that in case
tlie StanL't/ met with such an accident as to prevent
her return to Yambuya, he would be pleased to sub-
stitute the steamer Florida for her, as the owners were
business men, and full compensation in cash, which I
guaranteed, would find as ready an acceptance with
tliem as profits from the ivory trade.

" A third letter was to Mr. Antoine Greshoff, the agent
at Stanley Pool for the Dutch house at Banana, to the
effect that, faibng both steamers Stanlej/ and Florida,
he would find a lai'ge ready money profit if he would
undertake the transport of the stores of the Expedi-
tion from Stanley Pool, and 128 men frcmi Bolobo,
to Yambuya. Whatever reasonable freight and fare
he would charge, innnediate payment was guaranteed
))y me.

" A fourth letter was to our officer in charge at
Stanley Pool, Mr. John Rose Ti'oup, to the effect that,
failing tlie steamers Stankn/, Florida, and Mr. (ireshoff's.
he was to use his utmost powers and means to collect
]>oats ;u'd canoes, at whatever cost, ready at hand, and
('(mimunicate with Messrs. Ward and Bonny at Bolobo.
Mr. Ward at Bolobo was also enjoined to do the Hkc
in Uyanzi, and man these vessels witli tlie Zanzibaris
and natives, and trans[)oi't by stages the vari<»us stores
to the intrenched canij) at Yandtuya. This last would
H(^arcely be needed, as it is e.xtreuM'ly impi'obabh* that
from June 2Htli, 1887. to June Kith, 1888- nearly

SPKrrLATfNG AliOUT THE MAJOR.

MM\

no- the Recar

S'uaraiitecd

twelve moiiths^ — neither the Stdulei/, the Florida, nor ihmh.
Mr. (Jre.shott's steamer wcmhl he {ivail{il)k' for our

serviee.

.llllK' H.

Kort Bodo.

" Besides, you must rememher tluit hotli <'a[)taiii
and engineer of the Sfanlc// were eaeli promised a
reward of €50 sterling if they wouhl arrive within
reasonahle time. Such amounts to poor men are not
trifles, and I feel assured that if they have not heen

len-

prevented hy their superiors from fulfilling tl
promise, all goods and men arrived safely at Yamhuya."
" You still think, then, tluit in s(mie way Major
Barttelot is the cause of this (Udav ? "

es, ne am

I T

ippu

Tih. The latter of course ha;-

])roken his contract. There is no (h)ul)t of that. For
if he had joined his ()()() carriers, or half that number,
with our Zanziharis, we should have heard of them
h)ng ago, either at Ipoto, when you returned there for
the boat, or later, when you reached l^garrowwa's,
JMarch HJtli this year. The letter of September 18th,
1887, when only eighty-one days absent ihnu Yam-
buya, and which the Arab promised without (h'lay,

Duld certainly luive produced an answer by this if
the Major had departed from Yambuya. Those carriers,

11 choice men, well armed, acciuainted with the i-oad.

despatched with you to Ugarrowwa's on February l(>th,

and seen l»v vou sa

dely

across

le river onnosire liis

stati<>n on the Kith of the following month, would
surely by this have returned if the Kear Cohunn was
only ji few weeks' march from Yambuya ; therefoi'e I am
positive in my mind that Major Barttelot is in some
way or other the cause of the dehiy."

" Well, I am sure, however you may think the
Ahijol- is disloyal, 1 ."

" I )isloyal ! Why, whoever [)ut you in min<l of" that

woni !*

d 1

iich a woril has no connection with anv man

on this Ex|)e(lition, 1 hope. Disloyal! Why should
any one be disloyal ( And disloyal to wh<»m T'

'■ Well, not disloyal, but negligent, or backward in
pressing on ; I fe(>l sure he has done his best.''

"No doubt he has done his level best, but as 1 wrote

464

IN DAIiKEST AFllICA.

I.:!

i l

1888. to him on September I8tli, in my letter to be given to
June 8. Yixm. by Ugarrowwa's carriers, it is his ' rashness and in-
ert Bodo. experience I cb-ead,' not Iiis disloyalty or negligence. I
fear the eH'ect of indiscriminate punishments on his
people has been such that the vicinity of Stanley Falls
and the Arahs has proved an irresistible temptation to
desert. If our letters miscarry in any way, our long
a])sence — twelve months nearly to this day, and by the
time we reach Yambuya fourteen months at least ! —
will })e a theme for all kinds of reports. When the
Zanzibaris from Bohjbo reached him he ought to have
had over 200 carriers. In twelve months — assuming
that the goods and men arrived in due date, and tliat,
finding Tij)pu-Tib had broken faith, he began the move
as he promised — he would be at Panga Falls ; but if
the severe work has demoralized him, and he has de-
moralized his carriers, well, then, he is strandetl fai-
below Panga Falls — probably at Wasp Rapids, probably
at Mupe or at Banalya, or at Gwengwere Rapids— with
l)ut 100 despairing carriers and his Soudanese, and he is
perforce compelled by the magnitude of his task to halt
and wait. I liave tried every possible solution, and this
is the one on which my opinion becomes fixed."

"Do you allow only 100 left? Surely that is very
ow.

" Why '{ I estimate his loss at what we have lost
- about 50 per cent. We have lost slightly less ; for
from our original force of 889 souls there are 203 still
alive : — 4 at Nyanza, 60 in the Fort, 119 going with me,
and 20 couriers.

" Yes ; but the Rear Column has not endureil a
famine such as we have had."

" Nor have they enjoyed the abundance that we
have fed upon for the last seven montlis, therefore we
are perhaps eijual. But it is useless to speculate further
upon these points.

" The success which was expected from my plans has
eluded me. The Pasha never visited the south end oi'
the Lake, {is 1 suggested to him in my letter from
Zanzibar. This has cost us four months, and of Barttelot

jx,'sTJiL't"noys tu lieut. istairs.

4H5

) 1)6 given to
mess and iii-
egligence. 1
lents on his
Stanley Falls
emptation to
ay, our long
', and by the
I at least ! —
When the
ight to have
IS — assuming
ite, and that,
^an the move
^'alls; hut if
1 he has de-
stranded hir
ids, probably
Rapids — witli
3se, and he is
s task to hah
tion, and this
ed."
that is very

/e have lost
tly less ; for
are 203 still
>ing with me,

: endured a

ice that we
therefore we
ulate further

ny plans has

■;outh end of

letter from

of Barttelot

there is not a word. Our men have fallen by scores,
and wliere\er 1 turn there is no comfort to be derived

from

le [)rospe

)spect. Evil han<»s over this forest as a

1888.

Junt! 8.
Foit limlo.

pall over the dead ; it is like a region accursed for
crimes; whoever enters within its circle becomes subject
to Divine wrath. All we can say to extenuate any
error that we have fallen into is, that our motives are
pure, and that our purposes are neither mercenary nor
selfish. Our atonement shall be a sweet offering, the
performance of our duties. Let us bear all that may
be put upon us like men bound to the sacrific^e, without
one thought of the results. Each day lias its weight of
troubles. Whv shouM we think of the distresses of
to-morrow ? Let me depart from you with the convic-
tion that ill my absence you will not swerve from your
duty here, and I need not be anxious for you. If the
Pasha and Jephson arrive with carriers, it is better for
you, fen- them, and for me that you go ; if they do not
come, stay here until my return. Give me a reasoned )le
time, over and above the date— the l'^2nd of Deceml)er;
then if I return not, consult with your friends, and
afterwards with your men, and do what is best and
wisest. As for us, we shall march back to the place
where Barttelot may be found, even as far as Yambuya,
but to no place 'oeyond, though he may have taken
everything away with him down the Congo. If he has
left Yumliuya and wandered far away south-east instead
of east, I will follow him up and overt<ike him, and
will cut through the forest in the luot^t direct way to
Fort Bodo. You must imagine all this to have taken
place if I do not arrive in December, and consider that
many other things may have occurred to detain us
l>efore you yield to the belief that we have parted for
ever."

The following is the letter of instructions to Lieut.
Stairs :— -

" Fort Bodo, Central Afrioa,
<.j^iR_ "/«//el3//i. 1888.

"During my absence with tlio advance i)arty of tlie Expedition,
now about to return to the assistance of Major Barttelot and licar

VUL. I. E K

400

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

Mrv

I- 1

1888.
Jiiue 13.

Fort Bodo.

Column, I appoint you Conunaudant of Fort Bodo. I loavc with yon a
garrison, inclusive of .sick, nuniberiiif? nearly .sixty rifles. The men
mainly are not of the calibre retiuisite for a f^arrison in a dangerous
country. Still they can all shoot otf their rifles, are in good condition,
and you liave abundance of annnnnition. My i^rincipal reliance is on
the Commandant himself. It" the chief is ac^tive and wary, our fort is
safe, and no combination of natives can oust the garrison from its shelter.
I need not tell you that I leave you with contidence.

" l{esj)ecting the improvements to be made in the Fort, which I have
verbally explained to you, I w(mld suggest that as the Fort when
completed will be more extensive than at ])rescnt, you elect about
twenty or thirty of the more decent and cleanly of the men to occupy the
buildings in the Fort, until such time as they arc wanted for other
persons, because —

" 1st. You are in no danger, then, of l)eing cut off by a daring foe from
your garrison.

" "ind One-third of your men will be then within the gates ready at
your most sudden call.

"8rd. The buildings within the Fort will be kept dry and in a habit-
able condition bv being occupied.

" Corn. Begin ])lanting corn about July 15th. 1st July you should
begin hoeing uj), clearing the around.

" Bananas. I am exceedingly anxious about the bananas. Twice a
"week there should be sent a strong patrol round the plantations to scare
the natives, and also elephants. For the latter half- a-dozen tires at a^
many points might suffice.

"An otficer should be sent out with the patrol, to have a reliable
report of what transj)ires; should he rei)ort the liananas as getting
scanty, then you should begin rationing your people, always obtaining
your sup])lies by detachments from the most distant points of the
plantations. Let the bananas nearest the Fort reach maturity, juf^t as
you would your corn. Along the main roads it would also be well to
leave ])lantations alone until they mature.

"I leave Captain Nelson as second in command, to take charge when
you are incapacitated by illness or accident.

" Dr. T. H. Parke, A.M.I)., remains here as surgeon to take charge of
the sick.

" It is, of course, impossible to say when we shall return, as we have
not the least idea whereabouts the Rear Colunm is, but we shall do our
best. If the Major is still at Yambuya, you may expect us in December
sometime.

"I exjjcct Emin Pasha and Mr. Jei)hson in here about two months
hence — say alK)ut the middle of August.

" Shoulil Mr. Jephson appear with a sufficient force of carriers, then I
should recommend the evacuation of the Fort and take the garrison, and
accompany Mr. Jephson to the Nyanza, and put yourself antl force at the
disjjosition of Emiu Pasha until my return. As I come eastward I
pro))ose following a northerly and easterly track from the Nepoko and
make for the Ituri ferry.

" In order that on reaching the Ituri ferry I may know whether you
have evacuated the Fort or not, please remember that on the right bank
of the river, iwxxv the ferry, there are a number of very tall trees, on
which you could carve a number of broad arrows, which would indicate
that you had pa.ssed. Y'ou could also carve date of crossing the Ituri on
a conspicuous place near the ferry. This would save me a great deal of
time and anxiety resj^cting you.

" As our twenty couriers left here ICth February, it will be four

INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUT. STAIRS.

4f)7

I daring foe from
lie gates ready at
y and in a habit-
July you should

lianas. Twice a
ntations to scare
■dozen fires at as

have a reliable
mas as getting
ilways obtaining
it points of the
naturity, juf>t as
I also be well to

xke charge when

) take charge of

turn, as we have

we shall do our

us in December

)ut two months

5w whether you
1 the right bank
ry tall trees, on
I would indicate
ing the Ituri on
e a great deal of

t will be four

months, June 16th, since they left. If Jephsoii ai)])ears in about two
months, say, the time will then be about six months since the couriers
left Fort Bodo— quite sufficient time to dispel all doubt about tliem.

" I wisli you and your associates good health and safe arrival at the
Nyanza. On our part we will do our work with what celerity circum-
stances will permit.

" Yours faithfully,
"(Signed) Henry M. Stanley,

" Commanding E. P. R. Expedition.
" To Lieut. W. G. Stairs,

" Commandant Fort Bodo."

1888.
June 13.

Fort Bodo,

! *

468

IN DAUKE!6T AFIilfA.

CHAPTER XIX.

ARRIVAL AT BAXALYA : BARTTELOT DEAD.

The Relief Force — The difficulties of mfirohing — We reach Ipoto —
Kiloii^^o Loiiga apologif^es for the behaviour of his Manyuenia — The
cliief returns us some of our rifles — Dr. Parke and fourteen men
return to Fort Bodo — Ferrying across the Ituri river— Indications of
some of our old camps — We unearth our buried stores — Tl.o
Manyuenia escort — Bridging the Lcnda river — The famished Ma li —
Accidents and deaths among the Zanzibaris and Madi— My little
fox-terrier " Randy " — The vast clearing of Ujangwa— Native women
guides — We reach Ugarrowv.a's ab.andoned station— Welcome food
at Arairi Falls — Xavabi Falls — Halt at Avamburi landing-place —
Death of a Madi chief — Our buried stores near Basopo unearthed
and stolen — Juma and Xassib wander away from the column — The
evils of forest marching — Conversation between my tent-boy, »SalJ,
and a Zanzibari — Numerous bats at Mabengu village — We reach
Avisibba, and find a young Zanzibari girl — Nejambi Rapids and
Panga Falls — The natives of Panga — At Mugwye's we disturb an
intended feast — We overtake Ugarrowwa at Wasi> Rapids and find
our couriers and some deserters in his camp — The head courier
relates his tragic story — Amusing letter from Dr. Parke to Major
Barttelot — Progress of our canoe flotilla down the river — The
Batunda natives— Our progress since leaving the Nyanza— Thoujihts
about the Rear Column— Desolation along the banks of the river —
We reach Banalya— Meeting with Bouny— The Major is dead —
Banalya Camp,

1888. ^^^' ^liG 16tli of June, in the early morning we set out
Juue 10. from Fort Bodo towards Yambuya in excellent spirits,
Fort Bodo. lomlly cheered l.)y the garrison and with tlie best wishes
of the ofticers. AVe numbered 113 Zanzibaris, ninety-five
j\Iadi carriers, four of Emin Pasha's soldiers, !^wo whites
besides Dr. Parke and his little l)and of fourteen men,
whose company we were to have as far as Ipoto.
Indekaru was reached on the evenino- of the 17th, amid
a heavy storm of rain. The next day was a halt to
collect more plantains. On the lUth we camped at
Ndugu-bisha, the day following at Nzalli's. We had ])y
this time been introduced to the ditHculties of forest

7.V tiEAUCII OF TIIK UEAU-COLUMN.

460

mar('liin_2f. The erics of tlie eoluniii leaders recalled iiKist iss>(.
2)ainfully what an absence of seven months had caused •'""'^' -'^•
us almost to foro-et. ■^''"'''•

" Red ants afoot I fjook out for a stump, ho ! Skewers !
A pitfall to riiilit ! a burrow to left ! Thorns, thorns,
'ware thorns ! Those ants ; lo ! a trip]:>ino; creeper,
Nettles, 'ware nettles I A hole ! 81ii)pery beneath,
beneath I look out for mud ! A root ! Red ants ! red
ants amarch ! Look sharp for ants ! A log I Skewers
below !" And so on from camp to camj).

jMost of the villaoes alonij' this route still stood, but all
awry and decaying ; reeling from rotten u})rights, the
eavc corners on the ground, green mould covering the
floors within, hollows filled with slime, and fungi
fiourishino- {don<»: the sides, and jiitrous excrescences
abounding ; roofs covered with creepers, nettles, find
prolific gourd vines — veritable nests of ague, into which,
however, necessity compelled us and our men to seek
shelter l)y reason of excessive fatigue, or imminence of a
rainstorm.

Mambunou's was reached on the 2bst, and on the
edge of the Busindi clearing wocann)ed on the following
day. After forty-seven hours marching from Fort Bodo
we entered the Arab settlement of Ipoto, where it will
be remembered our people, maddened by distress of
hunger, caused me such serious losses of arms and
ammunition. But the change in their condition was so
jjreat, and their eves flashed such livelv olances of scorn
at their tormentors, that in the afternoon Kilonga-Longa,
with his head-men, dreading reprisal, began with many
apologies for the behaviour of his Manyuema during his
absence to extenuate the heinousncss of their crimes, and
to offer to atone for them as well as he was able.
Nineteen Remingtons were laid before me, out of thirty
I knew to be in their possession. Six of these had been
left as pledges of payment by myself, two were given by
Mr. Stairs acting in my name, one was sold by C'a])tain
Nelson, and ten were sold bv Zanzibaris, l)esides eleven
not yet recovered ; but out of .SOOO cartri<lges and two
entire cases these receivers of stolen goods purchased

470

7^ BAUKESr AFIUCA.

\ li

IIM

*!'

I 1%

:.( i

),S k

1881^.
Jone 21.

Jpoto.

from the starving Zunziharis, only fifty vere returned.
Whatever fears the jManyuema may have felt, tlie fit time
for reprisal and retaliation had not arrived, though fifty
rifles could have ea[)tured the settlement easily, the
majority of Kilonga-Longa's people heing al)sent raiding
eastward. We had far more important business af.)ot
than the destructicm of Ipoto, nor must it be forgotten
that our little o-anison at Fort Bodo was not so secure
but that a few hundicdsof men made desperate by their
losses miulit not avenue themselves fullv by a siege or
midniglit assault.

We therefore, l)cnding under the necessities of the
occasion, accepted the rifles and gifts of goat and rice,
and the Zanziharis were permitted to sell such ivory as
they had packed up for 100 pecks of rice, which to them
was most welcome provender.

The next dav the chief returned two more rifles, but
all my men l)eing sufficiently armed, he was re(|ueste(l
to ret'jun them as pledges, in addition to the six
remaining in his hands, for payment of ninety doti of
cloth prcmiised to him and his people for the grudging
and scant sustenance given to ( -aptain Nelson and Dr.
Parke while they were compulsory guests of this ill-
natured c(unmunity.

In the afternoon Dr. Parke and his little band of
fourteen men commenced their return journey to Fort
Bodo, conveying thirteen loads, and bearing the very
last instructions I could give.

On the 25th June we set out from Tpoto accompanied
by a guide and our escort of fifteen Manyuema, who were
ostentatiously detailed for this duty as far as the next
Arab settlement, one of Ugarrowwa's outlying stations.
We arrived at the Ituri Uiver, arid a canoe capable of
carrying nine men was delivered over to us at 3 p.m. to
serve as the means of ferriage. As one trip to the left
bank and back occupied on an average twenty-three
minutes, nioht fell before a half of our force was

acr< )ss

The work of ferrying was resumed early next morning,
and continued until two o'clock, when every soul had

THE WWE UNINUAnTTED WILDEIiNESS.

471

xt morniiif»',

crossed execptin<r the Manyiiemu escort whose fears that
sii(Men vengeance woiihl he inflicted on them, caused
tliem to decline the venture they had been ordered to
undertake.

We were now fairly in tlie wide uninhal)ite(l wildei-
ness through which last Octo])er the Expedition
struggled, gaunt victims of a merciless famine. No
consideration would have tempted us to a revisit of
these dreadful shades, l)ut that we fostered a lively
hope that we should scxm meet our returning couriers,
who we expected wouM gratify us with news from the
Majors column. Imhued with the fond belief that as
they had not arrived at Ipoto we should meet them
on this road — none other being known to them — we
marched briskly fnmi the landing-place, and in two and
threcHjuarter hours reached the camp whence we had
crossed over to the north bank on the 14th of October
last. Indications of our stay here were yet fresh — the
charcoal broad arrows drawn on the barked tree stems,
the lead pencil writing to Kliamis Parry still plainly
legible.

At 1.15 P.M. of the 28th we ai-rived at Nelson's camp,
opposite the confluence of the Ihuru with the Ituri, a
place which last October witnessed such death and
ag(my, where poor Nelson sat so many hours, so many
wretched days w4th ulcered feet, w^aiting anxiously the
arrival of news frcmi us, and where he was found bv his
friend Mounteney Jephson, haggard, and reduced by his
feelings of fcjrlornness and des])air into a state of abject
helplessness, in the midst of his dying and dead
companions. AVe had j)erformed the march in twenty
houvs, or in four davs inclusive of our detention while
ferrying with one small craft. Last Octol)er, despite
our strenuous endeavours, the same distance had occu-
pied us thirty-nine hours' marching, or thirteen days
inclusive of the halt ! The condition of the stomach
made all this i>reat difference.

We found our cncJu' untouched, though we had strong
doubts, and unearthed our buried stents which Jephson's
relief party was unable to carry away. The ammunition.

188S.
June 'IT).

Ituri Rivnr.

«<

In,.

I m '

ii ^ '

472

7A^ DM! K EST AFIUrA,

IRRo.
June 2rt.

Starvatiiin
Ciiiii|i.

iim(l»» l»y Kyiiocli of liinniii<4liani, after ci^lit months'
Ifuriul in tlie sand, sultjcct to tropic (lamp and an eternal
rain, was not so nnich injured as we expected, a lull
ei«j;lity per cent, ot" it hein^' still sound, an<l the well-
axed brass cases and copper caps yet exhibited tlieii*
native ltrii>htness an(i nloss. Disti'ilaitini'' 1,000
rounds to the men for the refilling' of their [)ouches,
selectin^H" such other articles as were useful, we made up
eight loads, and after burying' the rest as superfluous,
we hurried away from the hateful spot, camping fur
inland.

Arriving at camp, we discovered four Madi carriers
to have deserted with the kits of their Zanzibari mates.
Had they known, what we could never forget, of the
evil repute of this wilderness, they probably would have
chosen the brawling river for their graves than the shnv
torture of famine in the ruthless forest.

At sunset we were surprised to see the Manyuema
escort reach our camp. They had tied to Kilonga
Longa's, and that gentleman had sternly ordered them
to follow us again, and not to return without a note
reporting they had performed the duty on which they
had been sent.

On the 21)th we left the river route and steered a
south-westerly course through the pathless forest, in
order to strike the road taken by i\lr. Stairs' party on
their return from llgarrowwa's. As the head-man Rashid
l)in ( )mar was of our party, we presumed — as he asserted
his faith in himself — that he would recognize the path
if it were shown to him, after which of course there
wouhl l)e no ditticulty. The whole of the 2!)th and ;30th
were occupied in this south-westerly course undeviating.
We meanwhile crossed several native paths, but as
Rashid failed to recognize anvof them, we continued on
our way. On the 1st July, early in the morning's
march, we entered the basin of the Lenda River, and
then, as Rashid expressed himself of the opinion that
we must have passed the path, we took a direct westerly
course, steering straight on tlir(jugh the forest by
compass. At noon of the 2nd we struck the Lenda

nniDdlSd THE J. EX DA I! I VEIL

478

River whicli licncrjilly Howt'd, as we ohserved duriiiif
the nt'ternooii marcli of the 'Jiid and until n(»(»ii ot" the
,Srd, N N.W. Discoveiihii' a narrow ciiasin tliirtv yanls
wide throuu'ii which the l.enda I'uslied I'ui'iouslv, we
eoneeived it would Ite to our advantaue to throw a
l)rid«j;e across this river, and trust to fortune showinu' us
the path to l^narrowwa's station on the othei* liaiiU,
rather than continue ah»nu' the Lenihi liiveron tlie ri«»ht
])ank, lest we niiuht l»e forced to wander for days
without findino- the means of crossing'. Accordingly we
selected three of the tallest trees, 115, 110, and I OH
feet respectively, which we managed to launch across the
chasm, and these resting" on stout forked upri<>hts, with
railings to steadv the laden men, made a connno«lious
and safe hrid^e. Early on tlie morning' of the otii the
l)rid«^e was cimipleted, and l>y ten o'clock every man was
,-afe across.

The Madi carriers having purposely scattered tiM'ir
corn provision alon^' the road to li<iliten their loads,
be<»;an now to pay the penalty of their wastefulness.
Thou<;h the camp-crier cried out (hiily the number of
davs vet remaininu; for which the provisions must last,
the iujnoraiit savages were, however, too dense-headed
to j)rofit l)y the warning; consecpiently we had a
dozen feeble wretches already faltering in their gait.
AVe were already short of seven — four of whom had
deserted.

We continued on the left bank our westerly course, and
meantime crossed several native 2)aths inclining S. M and
N.AV., but we found none that can be made available
for our necessitv.

On the nth we stumbled across a clearing garnished
with a small but thrivin,i»' ])lantation of plantains. The
famished Madis rushed on this supply like hungry wolves
on their jH'ey, and soon devoured the whole, but three
of them trod on cunnin_i»!y-liidden sharp-pointed skewei-s
set in the oround.

Through a pelting rain we travelled on the 7th, and,
vet and miserable, camped in the bosom of untra versed
woods. One hour's march next day brought us to the

.Inly 1.

l.lMI>lil

Uiver.

,.'*■, fS

! (>,

i|i

ill!

(

) l!l

1 I

) )

h' \ .

;M-.

I \

474

IN DATfKKST AFIilCA.

18H8.

siiiull villaiio of lialia. and five hours lator halted for the
;'"'y^- nirrhtnt jiaiKh'va.
>.in e\a. 'Y\^\^ ,i.,y J,.,,! |,^.,.i, i(.j)|('t(' with iiiist rics and siiijjjuhir

accidents. A sliowor of cold rain foil on us after leavin^jj
Italia, and tliree of tlie naked Madis fell dead within a
few paces of eaeh other. At the Hrst indications of this
shower I liad ordered a halt, and spread out about I oO
s«[uare feet of tentin*"', invitin*;' everyone to luiddle
under it. Tlie sliower over, we rolled up the canvas
and resumed the march, hut we were still subject to the
heavy cold drippin;^' of the foliage. The Zanziharis, more
accustomed to it and in better condition of bodv, were
not mui'h inconvenienced ; but three Madis, depressed in
mind, depleted in bodv, fell dead as suddeidv as thou<;h
shot. A Lado soldier of Emin Pasha's and a Zanzibar!
were skewered in tlie feet, and so crippled by these
painful wounds that we wei"e oblioed to carry them.
Near Bandeva aiiother Aladi native succumbed to
ilhiess caused by insutticient food, and a Zanzibar! was
shot bv a bold and craft v dwarf with an arrow which
penetrated between the ribs, but not to a fatal depth.
Arrivinoat the villaue.mv cook Hassan, in an unfortunate
moment, while drawini<' his Winchester rifle towards him,
caused it to explode, tearino' a hirge porti(m of the
muscles of the left arm ; and near midnight a youth
named Amari, while blowinu' uj) to a briohter Hame a
watch-fire, was suddenlv wounded in the head bv a bullet
from a Remington cartridge that someone had carelessly
dropped near the embers.

The next day, guided by some women who said they
knew the way to t^^garrowwa's, there was a most tedious
march through an immense clearing lately abandoned by
the natives. None that I can remember was so full of
vexations. It was a strained position at every stride we
took — now treading on a slippery trunk which bridged a
chasm ])ristlino- w'itli dangers from a number of dead
branches, their sharp points erected upwards threatening
impalement to the unfortunate man who fell from such
a height on them ; then balancing (meself on a log thrown
across a rushing stream ; anon plunged into a brake

aW'JXG/NG liOVND A rjuri.h.

17.

ill ted for the

Sll

Mocfitiii^flv closo tVoni tlic (Icnso masses of invriiids of \xm.

ci'ecpci's gr()\viii«r ahove and around ; soon stnnihlinu
tliroujrli a (k'l'p <;r('('n slou<ih, its depth hidden l»y
Hoatin<i; ve^etal>h' |)arasites. then over a tearful iirray of
lo<rH, tlie relies of tlie old forest, and every step the
difHeulties repeated until near noon we had traversed
with streaming; hodies the vast elearin''" of fiaiiiiwa.
On tlie eonfine.s of tlie vir«;in forest we forme 1 camp,
despatched the people to (father p'.mtains and to prepare
them as provisions for the few days yet remaining' of the

ihl

wildeiness.

lai' observations 1 discovered

we were in

hit i°o' k;".

On the 10th I suspected we weiv takinu' a course
which, if continued, would lead us not far from ourcamp
of the Hth, hut the /anziharis wei'e so wedded to the
helief that the natives knew their own country hest. that
in a tit of spleen 1 permitted them to rest in that
opinion. Ahout ten o'clock of the 11th we came upon
the clearin<r and a little villaire we had left on the

moinin

«•• of tlie Hth. Th

us we

liad

made a com

plete

circle, ami in revenue for this the peo{)le deman<le(l that
the women should he slau<^litere(h Poor thin«is, they
had only acted accordiiio' to their nature I It is we who
were in error in supposiiii^' that the natives would show
us a way leadini>' them further and further from their
own country. Were the faith continued in them they
would have persisted in ouidin^' us round ahout their
clearings until they had dropped dead on their native

earth. The w(

)nien wer

e therefore sent awav h

ome

and with compass in hand we steered a west hy noi-th
course to strike the main road. We continued this course
the whole of the 11th, and early next day succeeded in
finding the path, which ran north hy east.

At nine o'clock of the l-'Uli .July we reached our old
camp (Hi the Ituri River, oi)posite IJgarrowwa's station,
hut the place, as we looked across the river, we found to
he abandoned. Therefore no news could be obtained of
our long absent carriers, or of the ^lajor and liis peo])le.

e resumed our march, our course ljein<r aloni"' rlie

'.•.

j.ingwa.

ii*f

476

7.V DAItKEST AFIilCA.

H,!

1888.
July 14.

Amiri
Falls.

Ituri River, every mile, every creek, every crossing-place
and every camp, well known to ns.

The next day, rations all exhausted, ]\Iadis perishing
by twos and threes daily, we reached Amiri Falls. No
sooner was camp j)itched than there was a rush for
food. It was not to ])e o])tained in the immediate
vicinity, for Ugarrowwa's multitude of GOO people had
j)receded us and devoured every edible, and that the
supply had been insutHcient for them was evident l)y
tlie nund»er of skeletons in his old camp. Distance
would not deter our fellows frcmi the Nyanza ; they
hastened onward, pursuing a track leading southward,
until finally after s(mie hours they reached a hill the
])ase of which was one c(mtinuous thriving planta ion of
plantains. At a late hour in the night they l)r()ught
the good news to camp, gratified our famished eyes
with a view of the prodigious fruit, which caused us
all to dream ecstaticallv on fruitv ban(|uets of which
the mellow and flavoury plantain was the most con-
spicuous.

Of course a halt at such a critical period within reach
of such abundance was imperative, and at an eai'ly hour
the camp was emptied of nearly every able hand,
exce})ting sentries, to procure food. In the afternoon
the well -furnished foragers returned, often in couples,
with an innnense ])unch between them, like to the old
engraving of Caleb and Joshua bearing the grapes of
Eshcol. The more provident, however, bore larger
<piantities of the fruit, peeled and sliced, ready for
di'ving, thus avoiding the superfluous stalk and
plantain skin. During the absence of the foragers the
weaker of the messes had erected the wooden urates
and collected the fuel for the drvinu overniiiht. The
fruit when thus div could be ccmverted into cakes, or
])alatable plantain })orridge. or a morning's draught of
j)lantain gruel. Many of the finest specimens wei'e
ro.ierved to ri|)en to make a sweet pudding, or a sweet
brew, or for sauce for the })orridge.

On the Kith July we resumed our march along the
river, following our old road as closely as possil>le, and

.1 MADf CIIJKF rUFAWUKS Ft HI DhWT/f.

477

ill seven hours reached the Little Ruj)i(ls {il)()ve Naval li
Falls. On the next (hiy passed Xavahi Falls, and
took a look at the plaee where we sulniieroed our
canoes, to discover that they had heon taken away.
Within four hours we arrived at our old caiii]) at
Avamhuri landing-place. 'I'he path was now consider-
ahly improved, for nearly a thousand pairs of feet had
tro(hh'ii it since our two score of hill-hooks had first
carved a passage throUi-h the hush. Many a skeleton
lay alonui; the road, and )ur niorihund AFadis were
destined to acUl a few more to the iiumher, for day hy
day they dropped down never to rise again. Nothing
that we could say would [)revail to induce them to
provide provision for the morrow. Ten plantains they
thought an inexhaustihle stock, hut the evening would
find them hungering for more. The only other means
left to save their lives was to halt as often as possible,
to enable them to eat their fill. Accordingly we halted
two (hiys at Avamhuri landing-place, to rest and comfort
the drooping and dying Madis.

On the 20tli we marched for seven and a half hours,
and camped a few" miles ahove Bafaido Cataract, losing one
Zanzihari and four ]\Iadis en rout*'. One of the latter
was a chief among them, who suffered from a skewer
wound in the foot. As we were starting he stated his
intention to die on the spot, called his countrymen
together, distribute*! his bracelets, anklets, shiny iron
collars and ear-rings among them, and then lay down
with a placid countenance, wherein not the slightest
emotion was discernible. All this was very admirable,
but it would have been still more admirable to have
bravely struggled, than to have so doggedly died.
Three hours later we discovered a canoe into which we
were enabled to [)lace a few weaklings. IVfore reaching
camp we had found three canoes, into which we em-
barked nearlv all the ailing ones. It would have been
cruel to have halted and sent back jx-ople for the Madi
chief; besides there were many chances against our
finding him alive, for as soon as the rearguard left the
camp it was generally visited by hosts of natives, who

•Inly 17.
Na\iil)i

Fill^

I J '■•!;•

1888.
July 21.

Bafaido
Cataract.

478

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

would feel no remorse for ending the feeble life of the
sick man la"oino; behind the column.

I'he next day was a short march of two hours.
Ugarrowvva had also halted at Bafaido Cataract, and for
several days, judging from the elaljorate arrangements
of his large camj), which from a distance appeared like a
large town, occupying the extremity of the river-head
terminated by the cataract. Before arriving at Hippo
Broads we were in possession of four canoes. On the
next day, lunching at the cataract camp, where we buried
our shovels and some articles which our weakening-
force could not carry, we examined the cache, and
discovered that the deserters had unearthed the ten
tusks of ivory, and the natives had possessed themselves
of all the remaining articles. Late in the afternoon we
camped at Basopo CVitaract. Between the two cataracts
the Zanzibaris discovered several canoes hidden away in
the creeks emptying into the Ituri, and joyfully, but
most recklessly, embarked in them, and notwithstanding
theii knowledge of the dangerous channels of the
Basopo Cataract, continued on their course down the
furious stream, which caused us the loss of a Zanzibari
and a boy belonging to the soldiers of Emin Pasha. In
the capsized canoe were also two of the Pasha's soldiers,
l)oth of wlumi lost their rifles and their kit, and barely
escaped with their lives.

Two Zanzibaris, called Juma and Nassib, wandered
away from the column and were missing this day, and
we were therefore o))liged to halt on the 24th to send
out a party to hunt for them. In the afternoon the
party returned unsuccessful, but an hour later we were
startled to hear a bullet hissing over our heads. A
search was made, and the culprit was found to be
Nassil), who, accompjinied ])y his friend Juma, was
returning to camp, and who informed us that lie had
seen one of our people in the bush just outside the
camp, and had tired at him, supposing him to be a
prowling native. lie still more astonished us when he
related that the cause of his parting fiom the column
was that he and Juma had seen some tine plantains in a

A TERRIBLE STATE OF BEING.

479

plantation, and had sat d(nvn to peel and dry a supply
for the road. This had ccjnsunied some eighteen hours
at least, and they say that when they sought the road
they could not find the track of 200 men. It is
difficult to decide which compelled most admiration, the
folly of these two third-rate men sitting cahnly down
in the midst of a plantation belonging to ferocious
cannibals, who generally closed the rear of the colunins
to avenge themselves on the stragglers, or the alarm
which in this solitary instance possessed the natives.

On the 25tli we camped above the Little Rapids of
Bavikai, and on the next day entered the populous
district of Ave-jeli, opposite the mouth of the Nepoko
affluent, taking our quarters in the village wh«'re
Dr. Parke so successfully amputated the foot of an
unfortunate Zanzibari thirteen months belbre.

I w^as never so sensible of the evils of forest marching
as on this day. My own condition of Ix^dy was so
reduced, owir**' to the mean and miserable diet of ve^e-
tables on which I was forced t(' subsist, that I was more
than usually sympathetic. At this time there were
alxjut thirty naked Madis in the last stages of life ; their
former ebon black was changed to an ashy grey hue,
and all their bones stood out so fearfully prominent as
to create a feeling of wonder how such skeletons were
animated with the power of locomotion. Almost every
individual among them was the victim of some hideous
disease, and tumours, scorched backs, foetid ulcers, were
conunon ; while others were afflicted with chronic dysen-
tery and a wretched debibty caused by insufficient food.
A mere glance at them, with the mal-odour generated by
ailments, caused me to gasp from a spasm of stomach
sickness. With all this, the ground was rank with
vegetable corruption, the atmosphere heated, stifling,
dark and pregnant with the seeds of decay of myriads
of insects, leaves, plants, twigs and branches. At every
pace my head, neck, arms or clothes was <;aught by a
tough creeper, calamus thorn, coarse briar, or a giant
thistle-like phmt, scratching and rending whatever
portion they hooked on. Insects also of number'less

IHSH.
.lu'y 24.

B.isojiu
Ciitaraut.

;?fi

]i I
i

1888.
Jiily -26.

Ave-jeli.

480

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

species lent their aid to increase my misery, especially
the polished hlack ant, which atl'ects the trumpet tree.
As we marched under the leaves these ants contrived to
drop on the person, and their bite was more vexatious
than a wasp's or red ants ; the part l)itten soon swelled
largely, and became white and blistery. I need not
name the other species, black, yellow and red, which
crossed the path in armies or clung to almost every phmt
and fed on every ti'ee. These ofi'ensive sights and
odours we met day after day, and each step taken was
fraught with its <jwn particular evil and annoyance, but
with my present fading strength and drooping s})irits,
they had become almost unl)earable. My mind suffered
under a constant strain of anxiety respecting the fate of
my twenty choice men which wei'e despatched as couriers
to tlie rear cc^lumn under ^lajor Barttelot, as well as of
the rear column itself. I had had no meat of any kind,
of bird or beast, for nearly a montli, subsisting entirely
on bananas or plantains, which, however varied in their
treatment by the cook, failed ro satisfy the jaded
stomach. ]\Iy muscles had ])ecome thin and Habby, and
were mere cords and sinews, every limb was in a tremor
while travelling, and the vitals seemed to groan in anguish
for a small morsel of meat.

At camp I overheard a conversaticm carried on
between my tent-l)oy 8ali and another Zanzibari. The
boy was saying that he b-clieved the "Master" would
not last long, how he had observed that his powers were
declining fast. " Please (iod,"' said the other, " we shall
find goats or fowls in a few days. It is meat he needs,
and he shall get it if Ugarrowwa has not cleared out the
country."

" Ah," said Sali, '* if the Zanzibaris were men instead
of being brutes, they would surely share with the master
what meat they get while foraging. Do they not use
his guns and cartridges, and are they not paid wages for
using them. I can't understand why they should not
share what they obtain with the master's own rifles."

" There are few here so wicked as not to do it — if they
get anything worth sharing," replied the other.

^liV AliMV OF HATS

481

ry, especii.lly
:rumpet tree.
1 contrived to
)re vexatidiis

soon swelled
I need not
d red, which
it every plant
! sights and
3p taken was
inoyance, but
oping spirits,
mind suffered
lo' the fate of
ed as couriers

as well as of
: of any kind,
sting entirely
aried in their
y the jaded
d flabby, and
IS in a tremor
)an in anguish

carried on
nzibari. The
aster" would
powers were
ler, " we shall
leat he needs,
eared out the

3 men instead
th the master

thev not use
)aid wages for

y should not
>wn rifles."
do it — if they
)ther.

" But I know better," said 8ali. " Some of the i888.
Zanzibaris find a fowl or a goat almost every day, but I -^"'J ■-*^-
do not see any of them bringing anything to the master." ''"'''' ''

At this juncture 1 called out to Sali, and enjoined him
to tell me all he knew. By dint of (questioning, the fact
was elicited that there was some truth in what he
had stated. Two of the Zanzibari chiefs, JMurabo, of
Buml)ire' fame, and Wadi Mabruki, had discovered a
goat and three fowls on the 25th, and had secretly eaten
them. This was one of the first instances of signal
ingratitude discovered in these two men. From this day
the effect of the disclosure resulted in obtaining a share
in the spoils. Tliree fowls were delivered to me before
evening, and a few days later I had regained normal
strength. Tliis happy result in my own case proved
what the needs of the poor 'i;;ked Madis were.

A heavy stock of provisions of dried plantains was
prepared at Ave-jeli, and our increasing flotilla of canoes
enabled us to embark all our Madis, baggage, and half
of the Zanziltari force.

We formed our next day's can)p near A vugadu Rapids,
and on the 27th passed the canoes over the rapids, and
halted for the night a few miles below.

We lunched at our old camp, where T remained so
many days wliile waiting and searching for the lost
Expedition in August, '87, on the .'50th 'luly, and took
up our night's quarters at Mabengu village.

At this viUaoe we observed about sunset an immense
number of large bats, called " p<>p<> ' in Swahili, sailing
over our heads to their niu'ht I'oosts aci'oss the river. .V
thin riband of sky was alone visible above whei'e I stood,
and J counted GHO of the nunil)er that flew within view.
As the army of bats must have spread over sevei'al
miles of the forest, a rough approximation of the many
thousands that were flying may be made.

On the last day of «luly we reached Avisibl)a, famous
for its resistance to our advance cohnnn last year, and
for the fatal eflects of the poisoned arrows employed in
the conflict. In one of the huts we found the top of one
of our tent-poles, wrapped carefully in leaves, with a

VOL. I. F F

482

IN DARKEST AFBICA.

1888.
July 31.

Avisibba.

small piece of cai'ti'i(l<ie paj:)er, a bit of green vei /et from
our surgical instrument case, and the brass case of a
Remington cartridge. The curious package was luing up
to one of the rafters, and probably consecrated to some
fetish.

In anotlier hut we discovered a collar of iron rings,
and ten untired cartridge cases. These last must have
])elono;ed to one of our unfortunate deserters, whose Hesh
must have simmered in a jiot over a fire and formed a
family repast. An old jacket was also picked up later,
which deepened the probability.

Shortlv after landino- at the village a little naked "irl
about eight years old walked composedly into view and
surprised us all by addressing us in the Zanzibari lan-
guage.

She cried out, " It is true, then ? I heard a gunshot,
and I said to myself while in my hiding-place, these
must be my own people, and I mil go and see them,
for the Pa<ijans have no ouns."

She gave her name as " Hatuna-mgini " (we have no
other), and related that she and five full-grown women
were abandoned l)y UgaiT(3Wwa at that place because
they were very sick, and that soon after Ugarrowwa had
departed with his large flotilla of canoes the natives
rushed in and killed the five women, but that she had
run away and hidden herself, where she had remained
ever since, living on raw wild fruit, but in the night
she had sucjceeded in gathering bananas, which, when
ripe, she could eat uncooked, since no lire was possible.
Ugarrowwa had had a skirmish with tlie Avisil)bas,
in which he had killed a great number. lie had stayed
here five days preparing food, and had departed man\^
days — " more than ten days."

A march of four and a half hours to Engwedde, and
anotlier oi seven and a half lu)urs, took us to a camp
opposite an island occupied by the Bapaiya fishermen,
a few miles above the Ne jambi Rapids. Rifles, accoutre-
ments, w^ere disembarked, and the canoemen were
ordered to pass their canoes down the left branch.
While the land party was engaged in the portage, t\\<i

TEEACHERY AT PANG A FALLS.

4«3

majority of tlie caiioemen' ])i'efeiTe(l to take tlic riujlit ihhh.
})raiich, ill whicli act of (lis()l)e(li nee tlie Zaiiziliari chief •'"'> •*!•
and five ^ladis lost their lives, one canoe was lost, and '^"''"''•
two others capsized, but afterwards recovered. A
Zanzibari named Salini was so bi'uised and battered
by the tl'xxl sweeping him auainst the rocks that he
was uiia])le to walk for nearly a month afterwards.

About ;i r.M. we resumed our journey, and ari'ived
about 5 P.M. at Pan^a Falls. Leaving' a detachment
oi them to o;uard the canoes, wc formed canij) below
the Falls. The land party succeeded in findin<;' a small
supply of Indian corn, which, ccnverted into meal,
made me a porridge supper.

A downpour of rain, commencing" at midnioht and
continuing' until 1 r.M. of the 5th of Auuust, much
impeded our work, but by ni^ht we had our flotilla
of nineteen canoes safe ])elow the Falls, in fi-ont of our
camp.

The natives of Pan^a had betaken themselves into
an ishind near the right bank, with all their goats,
fowls, and other property, but they had left several
nets and wires within reach in the various bi-anches
on our side, whence we obtained some fine large fish.
The natives w^ere practically safe, inasmuch as no body
of men with other business in view would incur the
trouble of molesting them. The}', however, manifested
most plausil)ly a desire to make terms of amity with us
by pouring water on their heads and sprinkling tluMi-
])odies with it, and some of our men uood-naturedly
approached their island and responded reciprocally.
The daring natives pushed across the cataract, and
one of them contrived to draw hiuiself un[)erceived
near one of our men, and stabbed him in the back.

A halt was ordered the next day, and a band of forty
men proceeded inland to forage, returning t()wardr^
night, each with a load of eatables ; but <nie of thcii'
number, a ^ladi, received a severe wound in the back
with an arrow.

Our old camp opposite the confluence of the Nguln
River and the Ituri was reached on the 7th in two and

484

IN DARKEST AFIilCA.

1H8H.
Aug. 8.

Mam-
baiigit's.

a half hours by the canoes, hut the land party occupied
eight hours in marching the distance, which I estimated
at eleven miles.

At JVIamhunga's on the north l)ank, which we reached
the next day, we found a good supply of food, hut a
Zanzihai'i named Jalifti was seriously wounded with a
wooden arrow in the chest. A portion an inch and a
half long was im])edded in the wounded part, which
incapacitated him from duty for over two months. On
the point of the arrow being ejected, the wound soon
closed.

At Mugwye's — or My-yui — the next place, a great
chanire had occurred. All the villaoes were obliterated
by fii'c, and the fine plantain plantations cut down, and
at Mugwye's own village tliere stood an immense camp.
Believing that Ugarrowwa was present, we fired a signal
shot, but no answer being returned, we proceeded to
our old camp on the left bank, wliere on one of the
trees Lieutenant Stairs had carved the date "July 31st"
(1887) for the benefit of the .Major.

Arriving at our old camp, we were surprised to see
the body of a woman belonging to Ugarrowwa's, freshly
killed and washed, laid out on the bank close to the
river, and near by thi'ee bunches of plantains, two
cooking-pots, and a canoe capable of carrying five
people. Jt was evident to us that a party of natives
hearing the signal shot, had decamped, and had been
obliged to abandon their intended feast.

A party of men was sent across the river to recon-
noitre, {ind in a short time they came back reporting
that Ugarrowwa must have departed that same morning
down the river. This was very regrettal)le to me, as 1
))urned to ascei'tain what he had heard of the news from
down river, and I also wished to beu' of him not to
ravage the (!ountry for the benefit of succeeding caravans,
which would suffer serious loss from the wholesale havoc
and devastation attending his journey.

On the loth of August 1 delivered over to the care
of the senior Zanzibar chief, Eashid, thirty-five of the
ablest of our men, with a charge to pursue our old track

THE MEETING WITH OClt VOUlilERS.

485

rty occupied
I estimated

1 we reached
food, but a
iided with a
I inch and a
part, which
aonths. On
wound soon

Lice, a great
3 ol)literated
t down, and
iiense camp,
ired a signal
)roceeded to
one of the
'July 31st'"

rised to see
va's, freshly
lose to the
ntains, two
rrying five
■ of natives
1 had been

r to recon-
reporting
ne morninix
to me, as 1
news from
him not to
Ig caravans,
esale havoc

to the care
five of the
n- old track

gwyes.

along the river as T intended to descend the river with 18h8.
our canoe flotilla without a halt as far a« Wasp Rapids, '^"*^" ^^^
where no doubt we sliouhl overtake llgarrowwa, and
where we should stay together until he should reach us.
At ().40 A.M. we set out, and, paddling vigorously,
were in the neighbourhood of Wasp Rapids at 11 a.m.
Long before we heard the roar of the rushing river over
the rocky reefs which obstruct its course there, we
descried an immense camp on the right bank, and in a
short time the forms of men in white dresses moving
about the bush. AVhen we had approached within rifle
range we fired some signal shots and hoisted our flag,
which was no sooner seen than the deep boom of
heavily-loaded muskets announced that we were I'c-
cognized. Socni several large canoes pushed from the
right bank towards us, as we were descending along the
left bank, and hailed us in the Swahili language. After
the usual exchange of compliments we then asked the
news, and to (nir great joy, not unmixed with grief, we
learned that our couriers, who had now been absent
fnmi us nearly six months, were in Ugarrowwa's camp.
The couriers had left Lieutenant Stairs at Ugarrowwa's
station on the IGth of ]\larch, and had reached Wasp
Rapids in seventeen days, or on the 1st of April, where
they had been driven back with a loss of four of their
number. Perceiving that they were unable to pierce
through the hostile crowds, they had travelled back to
Uixarroww^a's station, which thev reached on the 2Gth of
April, and where they placed themselves in Ugarrowwa's
hands. A month later, L^garrowwa, having collected
his people from the outlying stations, commenced his
descent of the Ituri River, our couriers accompanying
him, reaching Wasp Rapids on the !)th of August,
having been seventy-six days en route. That same
period we had occupied in travelling from the Albert
Nyanza, the lOtli of August being the twenty-ninth
day since we had left Ugarrowwa's old station.

After forming our camp on the left Ijank in the
•Icserted village of Bandcyah, opposite the camp of
Ugarrowwa's, in the deserted village of Bandekiya, the

I'l:-

»!l

III

r '

480

7iV DAliKEST AFRICA.

Itaudev.i.

iH8«. surviving couriers, aoconipaiiiod l)y Ugurrowwa and liis
Aug. 11. })(3mj nuMi, visited us. Amid a deep silence the head
man rehited his ti'anic storv :

" Master, wiien you called lor volunteers to bear your
letter to the Major, there was not a man of us but
intended to do his very best, knowing that we were all
to receive a hiuh reward and ureat honour it" we succeeded.
AVe have done our best, and we have failed. We have,
therefore, lost both reward and honoui'. It is the men
who have g(me with you to the Nyanza and found the
Pasha, and can boast of having seen him face to face,
who deserve best at your hands. But if we have not
succeeded in findino- the Majoi-and ghiddening his heart
with the good news we had to tell, (xod he knows it has
not been through any fault of our own, but rather
because it is His will that we should not do so. We
have lost four of our number, and I am the only one
who cannot show a wound received during the journe}-.
We have two, who though alive, seem to be incurable
from the poiscm in their blood. Scmie of our men have
as many as five arrow wounds to show you. As far as
Avisibba we came down the river smoothly enough, but
then the sharj) work soon connnenced. At Engwedde'
two were wounded. At Panga Falls three men were
most seriously hurt by arrows. Between Fanga Falls
and here was a continued light day after day, night
after night ; the natives seemed to know Ions; before we
reached them our full strength, and set on us either in
full daylight or in the darkness, as though resolved to
exterminate us. Why they should show so much courage
with us when they had slK)wn themselves so cowardly
when we went up with you, I cannot say, unless our
deserters, coming down river by half-dozens, have enabled
the Pagans to taste the flavour of Zanzibari blood, and
they having succeeded so well with them, imagined they
could succeed with us. However, when we reached this
village wherein you are now encamped, there were only
eleven of us fit for anything ; all the rest were sore from
their wounds and one was helpless ; and soon after
our coming the fight began in real earnest. Those

A TRAGIC STOIIY.

4H7

from tiiiit o;reat villa<^e opposite us joined witli the
natives of Handeya ; the river seemed to swarm vvitli
canoes, and the l)usli around tins viHa<^e was alive with
natives. After an hour's trial, (hiring which time many
of them must have been kille<l, for they were so crowded,
especially on the river, we were left in peacte. We
availed ourselves in fortifying, as well as we could, the
few huts we had selected for our (jUfU'ters during the
night.

" When night fell we phuied sentries as usual, as you
and Lieut. Stairs and Ugarrowwa, all of you, enjoined
on us; l)ut, wearied with work and luirassed by care,
our sentries must have slept, for the first thing we
knew was that the natives had pulled down our zeriba
and entered into the camp, and a wild cry from a man
who received a fatal thrust with a spear woke us up to
find them amongst us. We each grasped our rifles and
fired at the nearest man, and six of them fell dead at
our feet. This for a moment paralysed them ; but we
heard a chief's voice say, ' These men have run aw^iy
from Bula Matari. Not one of them must live.' Then
from the river and the bush they came on in dense
crowds, which the flashes of our rifles' fire lit up, and
their great numbers seemed for a short time to frighten
the best of us. Lakkin, however, who is never so
funny as when in trouble, shouted out, ' These fellowH
have come for meat — give it them, but let it ])e of their
own people,' and wounded men and all took their rifles
and took aim as though at a target. I low many of
them fell I cannot say ; but when our cartridges were
l)eginning to run low they ran away, and we were left
to count the dead around us. Two of our men never
answered to their names, a third called Jumah, the son
of Nassib, called out to me, and when I went to him I
found him bleeding to death. He had just strength
enough to charge me to give the journey up. 'do
back,' said he. ' I n'ive vou niv last words, (^o back.
You cannot reach the Major; therefore whatever \()U do,
go l)ack to Ugarrowwa's.' Having said this, he gave
up his last breath, and rolled over, dead.

Ant,'. 11.

li.llKlfVil.

I (

b :

48H

IN DAHKKST AFHK'A.

: ' I

iHHH. " [n the in(>niiii<i; we ltui'i(Ml our own poo})l(', and uround
Au» 11. ^yj, ^^crihu tliero were nine natives (leml, while within
ameya. ^.j^^^.^ wci'e six. We Kelieaded the Iiodies, and after
(M)lleetin<jj their heads in a heap, h(;ld eoiincil to<jjethei' as
to the l)est couise to ioHow. There were seventeen of
us alive, hut there were now oidy four of us untouelied
l>y a wound. .luniah's last words run<^ in our ears like a
warnin<jc also, and we deeided to return to Uijarrowwa's.
It was easier said than done. I will not weary you
with details — we met trouble after trouble. Those who
were wounded before were again wounded with arrows ;
those who were unwounded did not escape — not one
exeeptinn; myself, who am by God's mercy still whole.
A canoe was capsi^ied and we lost five rifles. Ismailia
was shot dead at Panuja Falls. IVit why need we say
over again what I have already said ? We reached
Ugarrowwa's after an absen(;e of forty-three days. There
were only sixteen of us alive, and fifteen of us were
wounded. Let the scars of those wounds tell the rest
of the story. We are all in God's hands and in yours.
Do with us as you see fit. I have ended my words."

Among those who heard this (b'eadful story of trials
for the first time there was scarcely a dry eye. Down
many faces the tears ran copiously, and deep sighs and
ej;iculations of pity gushed from the sympathetic hearts.
When the speaker had finished, before my verdict was
given, there was a rush towards liim, and hands
stretched out to grasp his own, while they cried out
with weeping eyes, " Thank God ! thank God ! You
have done bravely ; yes, you have shown real worth, and
the mettle of men."

It was thus we welcomed our long-lost couriers,
whose fate had been ever in our minds since our
departure from Fort Bodo. They had been singularly
unsuccessful in the o])ject of their mission, but somehow
they could nf)t have been more honoured by us had
they returned with letters from the Major. The story
of their efibrts and their sufierings was well told, and
was rendered more effective and thrilling ])y the sight
of the many wounds each member of the gallant band

UGATiPOWWA.

•},si»

had received. Tlirono;h the kindness of U^jarrowwn,
whose synijvithios iiud l)een won Ity the same snd l)ut
brave story, their wounds had soon liealed, with the
exception of two, who though now only greatly s< d
were constantly ailing and weak. 1 may state c;
that one finally recovered in the course of two moi. js
his usual strength, the other in the same time faded
away and died.

In Ugarrowwa's camp were also discovered three
famous deserters, and two of our convalescents who
were absent forao;ing during Lieut. Stairs' visit. ( )ne
of tliese deserters had marched away with a box of
ammunition, another had stolen a box containing sonic
of Emin Pasha's boots and a few paiis of my own.
They had ventured into a small canoe which naturally
was capsized, and they had experienced some remark-
able hair-breadth escapes before they arrived at Ugar-
rowwa's. They had been delivered as prisoners to
Lieut. Stairs, but a few days later, they again esca[)cd
to Ugarrowwa's, who was again induced to deliver them
up to me. These two afterwards behaved exceedingly
well, but the third, while a victim to small-pox, some lew
weeks later, escaped from the care of his friends and
leaped into the Nejambi Rapids, where he was drowned.

Ugarrowwa, ])cing out of powder, was m(jre thau
usually kind. A notable present of four goats, four
sacks of rice, and three large canoes was made to me.
The goats and rice, as may be imagined, were very
welcome to us, nor were the canoes a despicable gift, as
I could now treble the rate of our descent down the
river ; for in addition t(j our own canoes the entire Ex-
pedition of 130 fighting men, boys, followers, and I\ladi,
carriers, besides the baggage could be end)arked.

No news had been obtained of our Rear Column by
either the couriers or UgarroW' wa. The letter to the
Major, wdiich I had delivered to Ugarrowwa for despatch
by his couriers last September, was now returned to
me with the letters from my own couriers. He had
sent forty-five men down the river, but at Manginni,
about half-way between Wasp Kapids and My-yui, they

18fl8.
Aug. U.

Uaali-v.t.

490

IN DARKEST AFBTCA.

1^88.
Aug. 11.
Biimieva.

r : I.

■I'i

l\'\

I !''iii

hud been olJiged to return. Thus ])()th efforts to (;oni-
mnnieate with IMajor Burttek)t had ])een unsuccessful,
and could not but deepen the hnpression that somethmo
excteedingly awry had occurred with the Rear C\)lunin.
Anionir the letters delivered to me bv Uiian-owwa was
one open. It is descriptive and amusini;, and char-
acteristic; of our Doctor : —

"Fort Bodo,
" My dear old Bauttelot, " 1^^'' ttbrmiry, 1888.

" 1 hope you are 'going strong/ and Jameson 'pulling double.'
None of us lierc have any idea where you are. Some of us oflicers
and men say you are on tlie way uj) river, others say you are still at
Yambuya, unable to move with a large niuuber of loads, and amongst
the men there is an idea that your Zanzibaris may have gone over to
Tippu Tib. Stanley reached tlie Iiake 14th December, 1887, but could
not communicate with Enun I'asha. As he had not got his boat, he
then came back from the Lake into the bush, and maile this fort to ston;
his baggcage, while he again goes on to the Lake with Jephson and boat.
Stairs goes to Ugarrowwa's to-morrow with twenty men, who are to go
on to you and who bring this lettcsr. Stairs returns here with about
forty or fifty men who were left at Ugarrowwa's, and then goes on after
Stanley, as' the ])lace is oidy 80 or 100 miles from the Lake. I am to stay
at this fort with forty or fifty men. Nelson, who has l)een ailing for
months, therefore also remains here. We had an awful time coming
here. I often said I was starved at school, but it was stuffing compared
with what we have gone through. I am glad to say all the white men
are very tit, but the mortaiity amongst the men was enormous, something
like 50 per cent. Up to Ugarrowwa's there is ))lenty of food, but little
or none along the river this side of Ugarrowwa's. Stanley, 1 know, is
writing you all about the starvation and the road. To-day, Stanley fell
in all tlie men, and asked Hiem all if they wanted to go to the Lake or go
back for you. Most of tlu^ men at first wanted to go liack, but after-
wards the majority were for the Lake; both Stairs, Jejihson, and myself
were for the Lake, so as to decide if I'min Pasha was alive or not, so as
not to bring your column up all this way and then go back to Muta
Nzige. All tlie men are as fat as butter, some of them, ho-w ever, who
stayed with me at an Arab cam]) for three months, where j was kift to
look after Nelson, and sick men, and boxes, etc., are reduced to skin and
bone. Out of thirty-eight, eleven died of starvation. Stairs was the only
officer wounded, but many of the men died from their wounds.

" We are all in a bad way for boots; none of us have a good pair. 1
have ma<le two pairs but they did not last long, and all my clothes have
been stolen by ' liehani,' a Zanzibari. Stanley has had me working
hard all day, and 1 have only time to write these few lines as the sun
is going (lown. Our jiarty have lost and sold a great (|iiantity of
ummunition.

"(rive my best wishes to old Jameson, also the otlier fellows whom 1
know; and hoping to see you uj) here before long,

" Believe me, yours v(>ry sincerely,

"J." 11. r.

"We are all awfully sick of this ' bush' ; it continues to within a few
miles of the liUke."

WHOLESALE DE VASTA TION.

491

f»arrt)wwa was
lii', and chai'-

r fellows wlioin 1

i to witliiii a fow

The next day was a halt. The senior Chief Flashid
and his land party did not arrive before 2 P.ivi. of the
1 1th. The current had rnrried our flotilla in five hours,
a journey which occupied him fifteen hours' march. But
on the 1 2tli of August, liaving safely passed the (?anoes
below the rapids, we embarked at noon and proceeded
down rivei'. Opposite Elephant-playground camp we
met one of Ugarrowwa's scoutino- canoes ascendino- the
men of which related wonderful stories of the streno'th,
fierceness, and ])oidness of the Batundu natives. Two
hours later the Batundu drums announced our advent
on the riv(!i' ; but wdien their canoes advanced to reckon
the numbci' of our vessels, they quietly retired, and we
occupied their chief village in peace, and slept undis-
tur})ed during the niiijht.

At 8. Mupe' we arrived on the I3tli, and halted one
day to prepare food for our further journey (h)wn river,
but on the next day, the 15th, we passed the flotilla
safely down the various rapids, and camped below the
lowest Mariri Kapids.

Resuming the journey on the UUh, we floated and
paddled past three of our land march camps, and on a
large island possessing huts sufficient to acc^ommodate
2,000 people we halted for the night. Both banks of
the river were unpeopled and abandoned, but no one
could imj)art any reason for this wholesale devastation.
Our first thought was that our visit had pei'haps caused
their abandonment, but as the natives had occupied
their respective villages in view of the rear guard, we
concluded that probably some internecine war was the
cause.

This dav was the eit'hty-third since we had de|)artcd
from the shores of the Albert Nyanza, and the sixtieth
since we had left Vovt iJodo. Our progress had been
singulai'ly su(!cessful. ( )f the naked Madi carriers we
had lost a great many, nearly half of tlie luunber that
we had departed from tlu^ Nyanza with ; but of the
hardened and acclimatised Zanzibaris we had lost but
three, two of whom were by drowning, and one was
missing through a fit of spleen. Five hundred and

1888.
An?. IJ.

Butuiidu.

imi'

■ ■<■ , !•

492

/iV DARKEST AFRICA.

\\\-

h i I

'. lUti!

1888. sixty miles of tlic journey hud ])een accomplished,
Ang. ifi. ^\^QYQ, were ordy ninety miles remnining })etween Bun-

gc£"" gangeta Island and Yand)uya, yet not a rumour of any
kind had l)een heard respecting the fate of our friends
and followers of the rear column. This constant and un-
satisfied longing, pressing cm my mind with a weight as
of lead, with the miserable unnourishing diet of dry plan-
tains, was fast reducing me into an aged and decrepit state
of mind and Ijody. That old buoyant confident feeling
which had upheld me so long had nearly deserted me
(juite. I sat near sunset by the waterside alone, watching
the sun subside lower and lower before the horizon of black
foliage that bounded JMakubana, the limits of my view.
I watched the ashen grey clouds preceding the dark calm
of night, and I thought it represented but too faithfully
the melancholy which I could not shake off. This day
was nearly twelve months fnmi the date the rear column
should have set out fnmi Yambuya — .'UJo days. Within
this period 100 carriers (mly might have been able to
have advance<l as far as Bungangeta, even if they had to
make seven I'ound trips backwards and forwards ? What
couhl possibly have happened except wholesale desertion
caused by some misunderstanding between the officers
and men ? In the darkness I turned into my tent, but
in my nervous and highly-strung state could find no
comfort there ; and at last 1 yielded and imph)red the all-
seeing and gracious Pi-ovidenc'C to restore to me my
followers and ('oni|)anions, and allay the heartache that
was killing me.

At the usual hour on the 17th, we end)arked in our
(canoes and resumecl our journey down the river, paddling
languidly as we floated. It was a soml)re morning ; a
heavy greyness of sky ])ainted the eternal forest tops of
a sombi'ous mourning coloui'. As we glided pa.st
Bungangeta district we observed tliat the desolation had
not l)een confined to it. l»ut that Makubana also had
shared the same fate ; and soon aftei- coming in view of
th(> mighty curve of Hanalya, which south or left bank
• had been so ])opulous, we observed that the district of
the Banaha had also been included. But about half-

THE MAJOR, BOYS

498

past nine we saw one village, a great way down through
the li<»;ht mist of tlie mornino-, still standinji;, which
we supposed was the limit of tho. devastation. But as
we drew near we discovered that it had a stockade. In
July 1887, when we passed up, Banalya was deemed too
powerful to need a stockade. Presently white dresses
were seen, and ([uickly taking up my tiehl glass, I
discovered a red flag hoisted. A suspicion of the truth
crept into my mind. A light puff of wind unrolled the

1S8'<.
Au,>,r. 17.

Banalya.

VIKW Ub" liANAbYA (JLUVi:,

flao' for an instant, and the white crescent and star was
revealed. 1 sprang to my feet and (M'ied out. " Tlie
Major, hoys I Pull away hravely." A vociferous shout-
ing and hurrahing followed, and every canoe shot forward
at racing speed.

Aliout 200 yards fr*»m the village we st()ppc(l [)addliiig,
and as 1 saw a great nund)er of strangers on tin; slioiv,
I asked, " Whose men arc you T' "We arc Stanley's
men," was the answer delivered in niainhmd Svvahili.

I; ?

494

JN DAB REST AFRICA.

if-

1888.
Aug. 17.

Banalya.

But assured hy this, and still more so as we recognised
ft European near the gate, we paddled aslnjre. The
European on a nearer view turned out to be Mr. William
Bonny, who had been engaged as doctor's assistant to
the Expedition.

Pressing his hand, I said,

" Well, Bonny, how are you ? Where is the Majoi' ?
Sick, r suppose ? "

"The Major is dead, sir."

" Dead ? Good God ! How dead ? Fever ? "

" No, sir, he was shot."

" By whom ? "

" By thj Manyuema — Tippu-Tib's people."

" Good heavens ! Well, where is Jameson ? "

" At Stanley Falls."

" What is he doing there, in the name of goodness ? "

" He went to obtain more carriers."

" Well then, where is Mr. Ward, or Mr. Troup 'i "

" Mr. Ward is at Ban gala."

" Ban gala ! Ban gala ! what can he be doing there 't "'

" Yes, sir, he is at Bangala, and Mr. Troup has been
invalided home some months ago."

These queries, rapidly put and answered as we stood
by the gate at the water side, prepared inc to hear as
deplorable a story as could be rendered of one of the
most remarkable series of derangements that an organized
body of men could possibly be plunged into.

•iJespite Mr. Boniiy's well written report of the events
which had occurred, it was many days befoi'c 1 could
find time to study and understand the details. The
strangers I had observed belonged to Ti{)pu-Tib, and
they now pressed congratulations upf)n our arrival, and
our people hurrying in tlirough the narrow gate with
the bai»<»;aoe from the canoes, bawlinji; out recioL'nitiou
of their fi'icnds, leaping with joy, ov howbng with grief,
made Banalya Camp indescribably tumultuous.

Let us imagine the baggage stored orderly, tlic
canoes lashed to stakes firmly driven in the bank, the
congratulations of the strangers over, the Zanzibaris of
the a<lvance column departed from our immediate

e recognised

ashore. Tlie

'. Mr. William

assistant to

s tlie Major ?

ver

)n f

goodness ? "

Troup '( "

ing there '( "
oup has been

as we stood
e to hear as
1" one of the
: an organized
).

of the events
efore 1 could
details. Tlic
ppu-Til), and
L' arrival, and
)w gate with
t recognition
ig with grief,
ous.

orderly, the
he bank, the
Zanzibaris of
r immediate

n(^r.*l.-

(■v.if ■ ^

^ji : '

AT LAST ! THAXKaOD!

497

vicinity to seek their loiig'-lost friends and to hear the i.sss.
news, the 8(ju(hinese and Zanzilniri survivors of the *^"^'" ^""
rear column having uttered their fervid thanks that we '^"" ^'^"
had at hist — at hist, thank God — come, and sucli letters
as had arrived hastily read, despatches hastily written,
sent ])y couriers to Stanley Falls, one for Tippu-Til)
himself, and one for the Committee of the Relief Fund,
and we shall be at liberty to proceed with the story of
the rear column, as gathered from Mr. Bonny 's reports
oral and written, and from the surviving Soudanese
soldiers and Zanzibaris, and we shall then see how the
facts differed or agreed with our anticipations.

VOL. I. G G

h- \-

408

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

'mm. ^ :;;

ill-*

CHAPTER XX.

I. < ' !

1888.
Aug.

Banalya.

■ \

\ 1

, i

1 ' , it

■ 1 i

1 i

i ■

1 ■

THE SAD STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.

Tippu-Tilv-Major E. M. Barttolot— Mr. J. S. Jameson— 3Ii-. Herbert
Ward — Messrs. Troup and Bonny — Major Barttelot's He])ort on the
doinf,'S of tlie rear column — Conversation with Mr. Bonny — Major
Barttelot's letter to Mr. Bonny — Facts gleaned from the written
narrative of Mr. Wni. Bonny — Mr. Ward detained at Bangala —
Repeated visits of the IMajor to Stanley Falls — Murder of Major
Barttelot — Bonny's account of the murder— The assassin Sanga is
punished — Jameson dies of fever at Bangala Station — Meeting of
the advance and rear columns — Dreadful state of the camp — Tijjpu-
Tib and Major Barttelot — Mr. Jameson — Mr. Herbert Ward's report.

The principal characters of the foUuwiiig narrative
are : —

First, Tippu-Til), alias Sheikh Ilamed l)in Mohammed,
a man wh(> is a native of the East Coast of Africa, of Aral)
descent. Ke lias thousands of men under his command.
He is a renowncJ slave trader, with a passion for extend-
ing his coiKjuests and trattic in ivory and slaves, who,
while meditatino; war acjainst an infant State lately
created in Africa, is persuaded to agree to a peace pact,
to confine his destructive raids within certain limits, and,
finally, to lend the services of GOO carriers to our Expe-
dition, which is destined for the rescue of a wortliy
Governor beleaguered l)y many enemies at the north end
of the All)ert Nyanza.

While exhihitini'' the utmost o-oodwill. unOTudoino;
hospitality, and exercising numerous small kindnesses to
the officers of the Expedition, he contrives to delay per-
forming the terms of his solemn contract, and months
are wasted before he moves to take the necessary steps
for accomplishing his duties. Finally, as the officers
provoke him by constant and persistent entreaties, he

Till': SAD STO/tV OF 77/ /V Ifh'.Hi COLUMN.

45>9

on — ]Mr. Herbert
t's Rejjort on the
r. Bonny — Major
from the written
3d at Ban pa la —
Murder of Major
issassin Santra is
ion — Meeting of
lie camp — Ti))pu-
rt Waril's report.

iiU" narrative

^rolianimed,
frica, of Aral)
lis eomniaiid.
>ii for exteiid-
slaves, who,
State lately
a peace pact,
11 limits, and,
to our Expe-
of a worthy
he north end

makes a joni'ney of over 700 miles, collects the carriers, uw.
and after eleven months systematic delay, sun-enders ■^"^'
them to his white frieuds. lint a few weeks later a '"•' y^-
catastrophe occurs : one of the head-men of these
carriers, named Sanga, points his musket at the })rinei-
pal European otiicer in charge, and shoots him dead.

MAJOU BAUTTELOT

Second, is Major Edmund ]Musgrave Barttelot, a
generous, frank, and chivalrous young English othcei-,
distinofuished in Afiihanistan and on the Soudanese Nile
for pluck and performance of Axxty. His rank and past
experience in the c(mimand of men entitle him to the
appointment of commander of the rear column. He is

500

JN PAPKEST AFRICA.

1888.
Aug.

Banalya.

'ii I

'I >

instructed to remain at Yanil»nya until the arrival of a
certain contini'ent of carriers from Bolol)o, in the cliaroe
of three subordinate otlicers, Messrs. Ward, Tr up, .nd
Bonny. If Tip])u-Til) has arrived previcm" to (jr by
that date, he is to lose no time in following- the tra* k of
.the advance column, which has pieceded him by al)out
seven weeks. If Tippu-Til) has not arrived by tlie time
the B()h)l)0 continoent has reached Yambuya. he is to
make a forward move by slow stages with his own force
of about 210 carriers, making repeated trips l)ackwards
and forwards until all the essentials are removed from
camp to camp ; he is allowed discretion what to dispense
with in order to be enabled t(j march ; the articles are
mentioned wdiicli may be thrown away. He declares the
instructions to be clear and intelligible. He vows that
he will not wait longer at Yambuya than the arrival of
the Bolobo people, and satisfies us all that in him we
liave a man of energy, resolution, and action, and tint
there is no need of anxiety respecting the conduct of
the rear column. In every letter and report he
appears animated by the utuK^st loyalty and willing
spirit.

Third, is a young civilian named James Sligo Jameson,
a gentleman of wealth, with a passion for natural history
studies, wdio, professing a fraternal attachment for his
friend the Major, is appointed second in command of the
rear column. It is reported of him, that " his alacrity,
capacity, and willingness to work are unbounded "; what-
soever his friend the Major proposes receives the ready
sanction of Mr. Jameson ; and he has a claim to having
much experience and judgment for former adventurous
travels in Mashona Land and Matabele. Barely four
weeks after the assassination of his friend he dies, utterly
worn out l)y fever and trouljle.

Three young Englishmen come last, who are attached
to the Major's staff", two of whom, ]\Ir. Herltert Ward and
Mr. Troup, are to be associated with the commander and
his second in the discussion of every vital step, and no
important decision can be taken unless a council of the
four has been convened to consider it as to its bearing-

IIElinEUT WARD JXD JO/IX liOsE Tit O UP.

601

upon the entorpiisc for wliicli they i::ivo assoinlilcd on
the verge of tlie imkiiowii reoion of woods. Tliev are
therefore implieated in the (•onse(juen('es of any resohi-
tion and every se(|uent act. Tliey are not hovs new
from school, and fresh from tlie })arental care. Thev aie
mature and travelled men. ^Ir. Ilerhert Ward has seen

Aiii;.
Uanulva;

and willing

MR. JAMESON.

are attached
L't Ward and
mander and
tej), and no
)uncil of the
) its bearing

service in Borneo, New Zealand. and Congo land ; is bright,
intelligent and capable. ^Fr. John Rose Troup has also
served under my command in the Congo State, and has
been mentioned in mv record of the founding- of that
State as an industrious and zealous officer. Air. William
Bonny has seen service in the Zulu and Nile camjjaigns,

"tr

7.V JtMlKKsT A Fin ('A.

18BH.
Aug.

Itnnalra.

■i t

! I

lias lived yeai's in South Aiueiica, ami a]){)i'ais to l»o
a staid and oltservin^^ man.

Now hero is tlu' inexplicable mystery. We have
])aited from them while warmly and even affectionately
attached to eai'h other. We have ])li;;iited our words
one to the other. " Fear not," say they; " we shall l»e
doinir an<l strivinu'. cheert'uUv and lovallv." We believe
them, and hand in hand we pledge ourselves.

We return from our (piest of Emin Pasha, and ac-
cording to Major Barttelot's own Report (see Ai)peudix)
we learn the following striking facts : —

1st. " Rumour is always rife, and is sehlom correct,
com-erning Mr. Stanley. lie is not dead to the best of
my belief. I have been obliged to open Mr. Stanley's
boxes, as I cannot carry all his stuff."

He sends to Bangala all my clothing, maps, and
charts, reserved medicines for the Expedition, photo
chemicals and reserve negatives, extra springs for Win-
chesters, Remingt(ms, essentials for tents, and my en i ire
canteen. He reduces me to absolute nakedness. J am
so poor as to be compelled to l)eg a pair of pants
from Mr. Bonny, cut anothe" pair from an old white
blanket in the possessicHi of a deserter, and another from
a curtain in my tent. But Messrs. fFameson, Troup, and
Bonny are present, concurring and assisting, and the
two last-named receive salaries, and both present their
accounts and are paid, not a penny deducted, and a
liberal liuricf^se besides in first-class passages home is
granted to them.

2nd. " There are four other Souchmese and twenty-
nine Zanzibaris who are unal)le to proceed with us."

" Two cases of Madeira were also sent him (Mr.
Stanlev). One case I am sending l)ack" — that is, down
the C(jngo. He also collects a choice assortment of jams,
sardines, herrings, wheaten Hour, sago, tapioca, arrow-
root, &c., and ships them on board the steamer wdiicli
takes Mr. Troup homeward. And there are thii'ty-three
dying men in cam}). We may presume that the othei-
gentlemen concurred in this deed also.

3rd. " I shall go on to Wadelai, and ascertain from

QrOTATlOXS FROM MAJOIt IlAUTTKl.OTS DKSPATCIf. oUS

certain from

Eniin Pasha, it" he l>e tlu'iv still, if he has any iirws
ot" Mr. Staiik'V ; also of his own intentions as ivuards
.stayin<:ij or leavini:;. I need not tell you that all
our endeavours will l»e most strenuous to make the
(juest in which we are ^'oin*;' a su(;eeH.s. it may lie he
only ncetls amnninition to <;et away l»y himself, in
which case 1 would in all })rol>al)ility l>e able to supply
nun.

On the 14tli of Auj]fust Mr. John Rose Tnaip has
delivered over to xMajor J3arttelot li^l) cases Rcmiiiij^ton
riHe cartridges, in adciltion to the twentv-nine left hv me
at Yambuya. These 158 cases contain 80,000 I'ounds.
By June ytli (see liarttelot's Report) this su[)ply has
dwindled down to .']5,580 I'ounds. Thei-e has been no
marching, no fiohting. They have decreased during a
camp life of eleven months in the most umu-countable
manner. There are left with the rear column only suffi-
cient to give fifty rounds to each rifle in the possession
of Emin Pasha's troops. Half of the gunpowder,
and more than two-thirds of the bales of cloth,
have disappeared. Though Yambuya originally con-
tained a store of 1300,000 ])ercussion-cap.s, it has
been found necessary to purchase £48 wcjrtli ii jm
Tippu-Tib.

4th. " The loads we do not take are to be sent to
Bangahi. Tliey will l»e loaded (on the steamers) on
June 8th (1888), a receipt being given for them by
Mr. Van Kerkhoven, which is forwarded to you ;
also a letter of instructions to him and to ]\Ir. AVard.
Perhaps you would kindly give the re(|uisite order
concerning the loads and two canoes purchased for
Mr. Ward's transport, as it is nearly certain 1 shall not
return that way, and shall have, thererore, no further
need of them or /tiin.^' (See Appendix — Barttelot's
Report).

Mr. Ward has been despatched down river to telegra})h
to the Committee lor instructions ; he was supposed to
l)ring those instructions back from tlie sea Avitli him.
Here we are told the Major has no further need of him.
He has also written to Captain Van Kerkhoven, of Ban-

11^ i^-^,

Aug.
Ranalva.

*1f"

504

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

ill

mm\

li
\

1 i

III. : m '

i ■■ " ' i ' ■

^^ il :

i|; .i ^1;

Jfi ^^ n-'

1888.
Aug.

Banalya.

gala, not to allow him to ascend al)ove Bangala. In the
la.st paragraph of Mr. Jameson's letter to ^Ir. Bonny I
note a reference to this change.

5th. The rear column consisted of 271 souls rank
and file when we j^'^i'ted from Yambuya, June 28th,
1887.

In October, 1887, this force, according to a letter from
the Major, had decreased to 246 men.

On June 4th, 1888, while the rear column lies still in
the same camp (see the ^Major's Report) it has diminished
to 135 men rank and file.

On August 17tli, 1888, I demand from Mr. AVilliam
Bonny, who is in sole charge at that date, an official
report as to the number of men left of the rear column,
and he presents me with the following : —

" List of Zan/'baris left l)y jMr. Stanley at Bolol)o and
Yaml)uya, inclusive of eleven men, deserters, j^icked up
from advance column : —

78 dead.

20 ck'Kortod.

lU with Mr. Jameson (Bangala).
2t) left sick at Yambuya.

5 left sick on road.
75 present at Banalya, August 17tli, 1888.

223

Eetnrn of 8oudar.pse and Somalis and Syrians left at
Yaml)uya : —

21 died.

1 killed Ity natives.

1 executed by order of I\rajor Barttelot.

8 sent down Congo to Egypt.

4 left sick at Yambuya.

1 sick handed over to care of Congo State.

22 present at Banalya, August 17tli, 1888.

53
223

276

Eeturn of British officers left by ^Ir. Stanley at
Bolobo and Yambuva :—

TEBinDLE MORTABITY.

r>(lo

a letter from

1888.

Ausr.

1 Jolm Rose Trou)), invalidt-d liomo.

1 Herliert Ward, sent clown river by Major Barttelot.

1 James S. Jameson, ])rocee<lecl down Congo

1 Edmund M. Barttelot, Major (murdered). Baualya.

1 William Bonny, present at Baualya, August 17th, 1888.

27()
2.S1

11 deserters trorn advance column.

270
1 error.

271

78
2'J
4
5
21
1
1

Dead and lost.

Zanzil)aris dead,
left sick at Yamhuya.
left sick at Yamhuya.
left sick on road.
Soudanese dead,
killed by natives,
executed.

189

I'iaiis left at

Gtli. The steamer Stcuih'i/ arrived at Yamhiiya on tlic
14th of August, within a few days of the date mentioned
in tlie Letter of Instructions. On the 17th she depaits
to her port at Leopohlvillo. and lias severed all connee-
ti(m with the Expedition. The otii T-rs of the ("on,o()
State have behaved loyally according' to their Sovereiun's
promise. It only remains now for the I'ear colunni to
pack up and depnrt slowly hut steadily along our track,
because Tippu-Tih has not arrived, and ueeording to the
issue anticipated will not come.

I turn to Mr. Bonny, and ask, ''Were you not all
anxious to he at work T'

" Yes, sir."

" Were y(m not burning to be otf from Vand»uva I "
1 es, sn*.

'• Were you all e<|ually desirous to be on the road T'

" 1 believe so. Yes, sii-."

•'Well, .Mr. Bonny, tell me -if it be true that vou
were all burning, eager, and anxious to be off — whv nou

I!,' .

50fj

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

u.'

III I '

II:

Wifi'!

li '

li;^

' ■ ' *■ 1 ■

i i ■

1H8S. did not devise some plan lietter tlian travelling l)aek-
^"^- wards and forwards between Yanil>uya and Stanley

Banalya. j^^.,jj^ 2 "

" I am sure T don't know, sir. I was not the chief,
and if you^rill observe, in the Letter of Instructions you
did not even mention my name."

" That is very true ; I ask your pardon ; l)ut you
surely did not remain silent because 1 omitted to men-
tion your name, did you — you a salaried official of the
Expediti(m?"

" No, sir. I did speak often."

*' Did the others ? "

" 1 don't know, sir."

1 have never obtained further light from Mr. Bonny,
though at eveiy leisure hour it v/as a constant theme.

A year after this we were at Usaml)iro, south of the
Victoria Nyanza, and 1 received a clipping of a news-
paper wherein there was a copy of Major Barttelot's
letter of October, 1887. There was a portion which
said, " We shall l)e ()l>liged to stay here until November."
I know that they thought they were ol)liged to remain
until -June 11, 1888. I turn to Major Barttelot's letter
of June 4th, 1888 (see Appendix), \vherein he says, "I
feel it my bounden duty to proceed on this business, in
which 1 am fully upheld by both Mr. Jameson and
Mr. B<mny ; to wait longer would be both useless and
culpalde, as Ti})pu-Til) has not the remotest intention
of helping us any more, and to withdraw would be
pusillanimous, and, 1 am certain, entirely contrary to
your wishes and those of the Committee."

1 turned to my Letter of Jnstructicms, and I find in
Paragraph 10 :

" it may liaj)|)en th.it though Tippu-Tib has sent
some men, he has not sent enough to carry the goods
with your own force. In that case you will of course
use your discretion as to what goods you can dispense
with, to enable you to march."

Paragi-aph M. " If you still cannot march, then it
would be better to make marches of six miles twice over,
if you prefer marching to staying for our arrival, than

MAJOR BARTTELOTS SUCCESSOR.

507

111(1 I find in

throw too many things away." (See Letter of Instvuc-
tions in a preceding chaptei'.)

At U.samljii'o also I received tlie answer whicli the
Committee sent in reply to Mr. Ward's cablegram from
St. Paul de Loanda, asking them to " wire advice and
opinion."

To Major liarffelof. Care Wctnf, Coiif/o.
" Committer refer you to Stahhi/n ordern <>/ the ''lith June. If you t^tiJI
civmot inarch in (uxordance witli t/itse orilern,t/ien stay n'her'- yon. are, awad-
iny his arrival, or until you rece i re fresh instructions from Stanley."

A committee 6000 miles away penetrate into the
spirit of the instructi<ms instantly, but a c(mimittee of
five officers at Yanil)uya do not appear to understand
them, though they have been drawn u[) on the clear
understanding that ea(;li officer would premier active
movement and occupation to an inactive life and idle
waitino; at Yambuva.

7th. Mr. William Boiinv, whose capacity to under-
take serious resp(msibilities is unknown to me, is not
mentioned in the Letter of Instructions.

On my return to Banalya, Mr. Bonny hands me the
following order written by Major Barttelot.

" Yambuva Canii),

" Aj>ril ±2n'/, 1888.

" Sir, — In event of my death, detention of Arabs, absence from any
cause from Yambuya camp, you will assume charge of the Southmcse com-
pany, the Zanzibar company, and take charge of the stores, sleeping in
the house where they arc placed. All orders to Zanzibaris, Somalis, and
Soudanese will be issued by you and to them only. All issues of cloth,
matako (brass rods), etc., will be at your discretion, but ex])enditure of
all kinds must as much as po.ssible be kept under. Relief to Mr. Stanley,
care of the loads and men, good understanding between yourself and the
Arabs must be your earnest care; anything or anybody attempting to
interfere between you and these matteis must be instantly removed.

" I have the honour to be, Sir, iScc,

" Edmund M. JiAtiTTia.oT,
" Major:'

What remains for the faithful Jameson, " whose
alacrity, ('a|)a(*ity, and willingness to work arc un-
bounded," to do ^ Wlici'c is the promising, intelligent,
and capal»le Ward ;* What ])osition rcmaius for the
methodical, business-like, and zealous Mr, John Hose
Troup? JMr. Bonny has been suddenly elevated to the

188S.
Auj;.

Banal v;i.

I i

I <

'i il

1888.
Aug.

Banalya.

ii|siiiiii'i

1, ,

•5T«

IN DARKEST AFltlCA.

f'ommand of the rear column in the event of any un-
happy accident to iMajor Barttelot.

My first fear was that I had l)ecome insane. When
I alone of all men attempt to reconcile these inexplic-
al)le contrarinesses with what I know animated each and
every officer of the rear column, I find that all the wise
editors of London differ from me. In the wonderful
l()<X-l)ook entries T read noble zeal, indefatioable labour,
marches and countermarches, and a limitless patience.
In t:i' Major's official report, in Mr. Jameson's last sad
letter (see Appendix), I discern a singleness of purpose,
inflexible resolve and the true fibre of lovaltv, tireless
energy, and faith, and a devotion which disdains all cal-
culation of cost. When I came to com])are these things
one with another, my conclusi(jn was that the officers
at Yambuya had manifestly been indifferent to the
letter of instructicms, and had forgotten their prtmiises.
When Mr. Bonny told me that one of them had risen at
a mess meeting to propose that my instructions should
])e cancelled, and that the ideas of Major Barttelot
should be carried out in future — it did appear to me
that the most charitable construction that could be
placed upon such conduct was that they were indifferent
to any suggestions which had been drawn out purposely
to satisfy their own oft-repeated desire of " moving on."

But how I wish that I had ])een there f(n- just one
hour only on that August 17th, 1887, when the five
officers were asseml)led — adrift and away, finally from
all touch with civilization — to discuss what they should,
do, to tell them that

" Jov'k soul lies in tlio doinp;,
And the raiiture of inu'suinp
Is tlie ])rize."

To remind them that

" The path of duty is the way to glory."

What I count your hundreds of loads ! What are
they? Look, it is sim))ly this: 200 carriers are here
to-day. There are 500 loads. Hence to the next vil-
lage is ten miles. In six da}s your 200 men have

THE PATH OF DUTY.

5U9

carried the 500 loads ten miles. In four months vou
are inland a1)out 150 miles. In eight months you are
300 miles nearer to the Xyanza, and long l)efore that
time you have liohtened vour lalxnirs l)y convevinu-
most of your burdens in canoes ; you will have heard
all about that advance (column as early as October, the
second month of work ; for powder anil guns, you may
get Ugarrowwa's flotilla to help you, and l)y tlie time
the advance column starts from Fort Bodo to hunt
you up, you will l)e safe in Ugarrowwa's settlement, and
long ])efore that you will have met the couriei-s with
charts of the route with exact information of what
lies before you, where food \v to l)e ()])tained, and every
one of you will l)e healthier and happier, and you will
have the satisfaction (jf naving performed even a greater
task than the advance column, and ol)tained the
" kudos " which you desired. The bigger the work the
greater the joy in doing it. That whole-hearted striv-
ing and wrestling w4tli Difficulty ; the laying hold with
firm grip and level head and calm resolution of the
monster, and tugging, and toiling, and wrestling at it, to-
day, to-morrow, and the next until it is done ; it is the
soldier's creed of forward, ever forward — it is the man's
faith that for this task was he born. Don't think of
the morrow's task, Ijut what you have to do to-day,
and go at it. When it is over, rest tranipiilly, and
sleep well.

But I was unable to be present ; I could only rely on
their promise that they would limit theii' faith in Tippu-
Tib until the concentration of all officers and men
attached to the rear column, and insist that the Idazing
(m the trees, the broad arrow-heads pointing the way,
should be well made for their clenr uuidamte throunji
the almost endless woods, from one side of the forest
to its farthest edo'e. Yet curiouslv hungering to know
why Barttelot, who was " s2)oiling for work," and Jame-
son, who was so earnest, and had ])aid a thousand
pounds for the privilege of being with us, and Ward,
who I thought was to be the future Clive of Africa, and
Troup, so noted for his industry, and Bonny, so steady

18S8.
Aug.

Baualva,

i i I

■III W it

i''l

. !

1888.
Aug.

Banal v!t.

'W'.

r.io

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

and so ()l)e(iicnt, so iiiicoiiscioiisly acted as to utterly
prevent tliem from doing' wliat I believe from my fouI
they wished to do as much as I or any other of us did,
a conviction flashes upon my mind that there has ])een
a supernatural malignant influence or agency at work
to thwart everv hon-est intention.

A few instances will tend to strengthen this con-
viction. 1 fi'eely and heartily admit that the five
officers ])urned to leave Yam])uya, and to assist in pro-
secuting unto successful issue the uni({ue enterprise
they had sacrificed so much comfort t(» join. But they
are utterly unable to move, try how they may. They
l)elieve I am alive, and they now to make a strenuous
quest for me, but they reduce me to nakedness. They
are determined to start in (juest and relief of Emin
Pasha, because " to withdraw wov.M Ije pusillanimous,
and to stay longer would be culpa )le," and yet they
part with the necessary ammunition that they wish to
carry to him. They confess that there are thirty-three
sick men unable to move at Yambuya, and yet the very
stores, medicaments, and wine that might have saved
tliem they l)ox up and send to Bangala, after first
obtaining a receipt for them. They have all signed
agreements wherein each officer shall have a fair share
of all European preserved provisions, perfect delicacies,
and yet they decline to eat them, or allow the sick men
to eat them, but despatch them out of the hungry
woods to the station of Bangala. Mr. Bonny, as I
understand, expressed no regret or audible dissent at
their departure. From ])ui'e habit of discipline he
refrained from demanding his fair share, and like a g()od
Englishman, but mighty poor democrat, he parted with
his inalienable right without a nuu'mur. They searched
for Manyuema slaves, canniltals of the Bakusu and Bason-
gora tribes to replace their dead Zanzibaris and Sou-
danese, Somalis and Syrians, and it came to pass a few
weeks after they had obtained these canni])als that one
of their head men assassinates the English (-onnnander.
Also on !• fatal date, fatal because that resolution to
wait sealed their fate, an officer of the advance column

A SUPEJiXAlTIiAL JXFLUEyX'E.

.M L

was straying tliroiio-li an impcnGtral)le ])U.sli witli :300
despairing men })ebin(l liini, and on this fatal date tlie
next year, Mr. Bonny, the sole snrvivor of the English
band, pours into my ears a terrible tale of death and
disaster, while at the same hour poor Jameson breathes
his last, tired and worn out with his futile struggles to
" move on " at Bangala, 500 miles west of me ; and
600 miles east of me, the next day, Vauiu Pasha and
^[r. Jephson walk into the arms of the rebel soldiery
of E(|uatoria,

This is all very uncanny if you think of it. There is
a supernaturjd (Halderk' operating which surpasses the
conception and attainment of a mortal man.

In addition to all these mischiefs a vast croji of Iving
is germinated in these (hirksonie shades in the vicinity
of Stanley Falls, or along the course of the I'pper
Congo, showing a measureless cunning, and an in-
satiable love of horror. My own murder appears to l)e
a favourite theme, (juantities of human bones are said U)
be discovered bv some reconnoitrinu' ])artv, human
limbs are said to l)e found in cookins: ,)ots, sketches by
an aniateur artist are reported to have been, made of
whole families indulging in camiibal repasts ; it is more
than hinted that Englishmen are inipli<'ated in i-aids,
murder, and cannibalism, that they have been making
targets of native fugitives while swimming in the
Aruwimi, all for the mere sake of infusing terror, alarm,
and grief among (juiet English people, and to plague
our friends at home.

The instruments this chirk power elects for the <lis-
semination of these calumnious fal)les are as various in
their professions as in their nationality. It is a deserter
one day, and the next it is an engineer of a steamer ; it
is now a slave-trader, or a slave ; it is a guileless mis-
sionary in search of work, or a dismissed Syrian ; it is a
young artist with morbid tastes, or it is an oth.*er of
the Congo Free State. Each in his turn Itecomes pos-
sessed with an insane desire to sav or write somethimi
which overwhelms comuKjn sense, and exceeds ordinary
belief.

r>aiialva.

ii.i'

liil '

If!

ill

512

7.V DARKEST AFniCA.

1888.
Aug.

Banalya.

From the otiicial written narrative of ^\v. William
Bonny I glean the following, and array the facts in
clear order.

The Stdidci/ .steamer has departed from Yamljuya
early in the morning of August 17th, 1887. The goods
she has brought up are stored within the magazine,
and as near as I can oatlier there are 2GG men within
the entrenched camp. As they are said to have met
to deliberate upon their future steps we may assume
that the letter of instructions was read, and that thev
did not understand them. They think the wisest plan
would )»e "o await Tippu-Tib, who, it will l)e rememl)ered,
had promised to ^lajor Barttelot that he would Ite
after him within nine days.

On this day the otticers heard firing across the river
almost opposite to Yam])uya. Through their binoculars
they see the al)origines chased into the river by men
dressed in white clothes, who are shooting at them from
the north or right l)ank. Conceiving that the
marauders must be some of Tippu-Tib's men, they
resolve upon electing an otticer and a few men to
interview them, and to cease from molesting the natives
who have lono- aoo become friendlv and are under their
protection. The officer goes across, finds their camp,
and invites Altdallah, their chief, to visit the English
commander of Yambuya. The Alajor thus learns that
these marauders really belong to Tippu-Tib, and that
Stanley Falls is but six days' march overland from
Yambuya. Probaldy believing that, after all, Tippu-Tib
may l)e persuaded to assist the Expedition, he in(|uires
for and obtains guides to conduct some of his party to
Stanley Falls, to speak and treat in his behalf with that
chieftain whom we have conveyed from Zanzibar to
Stanley Falls, with free rations in consideration of the
help he had solemnly contractr^^ to furnish.

On x\ugust 29, Mr. Ward retuii from the Falls with
a reply from Tippu-Tib, wherein he promises that he
will collect the cariiers needed and send them within ten
days. The first promise in June was " in nine days " ;
the promise is in August " in ten days," A few days

MAliCIIEtiy AND VOLWTEH-MARVllES.

bi?j

later Mr. Jameson returns from Stanley Falls in<'om})any
of Salim ))in Mohammed, a ne|)lie\v of 'ri])pn-Til>. and a
lart»e party of Manyuema. This party is reported to
})e the vanguard of the carrier eontin<;ent. which Ti|»j)u-
Tib will shortly hrino- in ])erson.

In the interval of waiting- for him, howev«'r. trouble
])reaks out on the Lumami, and Tippu-Til) is ohlined to
hurry to the scene to settle it. The Yand)uya oan-ison,
however, are (hiily expecting his presence.

Unable to })ear the suspense, the second vi^it to
Stanley Falls is undertaken, this time by Major Bartteh)t
in pers(m. It is the 1st of ()(!tobei'. Salim bin Mo-
hammed accompanied hir.., and also Mr. Troup. On
the way thither they met Tij)pu-Tib advancing' towards
Yambuya, having six d -lerters from the advance column,
each bearing a weighty tusk. The Major graciously
remits the six ivory tusks to the Arab chief, and, as
they must have a palaver, they go together to Stanley
Falls.

After one month tlie Major returns to his cam[), on
the Aruwimi, and states that Tippu-Tib, unable to
muster GOO carriers in the Stanley Falls region, is
obliged to proceed to Kasongo, about ^^50 miles above
Stanley Falls, and that this journey of about 700 miles
(to Kasongo and back) will occupy forty-two days.

Meantime, twenty of the Major'^s own people have
been buried outside the camp.

The English commander learns that during his jib-
senee, Majato, a head man of the Manyuema, has been
behaving " badly," tliac he has been, in fact, intimidating
the natives who marketed with the garrison, with the
view of starvino- the soldiers and Zanzibaris, or reaping
some gain by acting as the middleman or factor in the
exchange of goods for produce. Hearing these things,
the Major naturally becomes indignant, and forthwith
despatches Mr. Ward, who makes the third visit to the
Falls to ('omplain of the arbitrary conduct ( f Majato.
The complaint is effective, and Majato is immediately
withdrawn.

In the beginning of 1888. Salim bin Mohammed

1H88.
Aug.

Ijanalyit.

VOL. I.

II II

^JV ^ ''^"'"iTT*" •-

TiU

y.V DAltKKST AFRICA.

li'i;

I i!

■»^?

tiliil

til

■:1

Mil

1888.
Aug.

Bniiiilyu.

urrives at Vaiiil)uya for the second time, and pi-esently
})ef;onies so active in enforcing' cei'tain measures against
the natives tliat the food supply of the camp is wholly
cut off and nevei' renewed. lie also (^onnnences the
construction of a permanent camp of su})stantial nmd-
huilt huls at half a how-shot's distance from the pali-
sades of Vamhuya, and com[)letely invests the fort on
the land side, as though he were preparing for a siege
of the place.

After i\ futile effort to bribe Salim with the offer of a
thousand pounds to lead a Manyuema crmtingent to
follow the track of the advance <;olumn. Major Barttelot
and Mr. Jameson, about the middle of February, undei'-
take the fourth visit to Stanley Falls. Salim, fearing
unfavourable accounts of his behaviour, accompanies them
('II. route • the party meet 250 Manyuema, but as they
have no wi'itten instructions with tliem, they are per-
mitted to s(-atter over the country in search of ivory.

In March Salim returns to Yambuya, and intimates
to the officers that no (h)ubt the (carriers would be ulti-
mately foi'thcoming, not however for the purpose of
following Mr, Stanley's track, })ut to proceed ria Ujiji
and LJnyoro ; a mere haziness of geography !

On the 25th of March, Major Barttlelot returns to the
camp with information that Mr. Jameson, the inde-
fatigable rfameson, has proceeded up river in the
track of 'J'ippu-Tib with the intention of reaching Ka-
Hongo. He also announces his intention of forminii" a
flying colunm, and leaving the larger part of his goods at
Staidey Falls in charge of an ofKcer ! He also prepares
a telegram to the (MHnmittee in London which is as
follows : —

" St. Paul do Loandii,

" l.s/ M<(ij, 18B8.

" No news of Stanley since writing last October. Ti])])u-Til) went to
Kasongo, Nov. IGtli, l)ut up to March has only got us 25U men. More are
coming, hut uncertain in numher, and as precaution, presuming Stanley
in trouble (it woi;ld) be absurd in mo to start with less number tlian he
did, while carrying more loads — minus Maxim gun. Therefore I have
ticnt Jameson to Kasongo to hasten Tippu-Tib in regard to originally
])roi)osed number of GOO men, and to obtain as many fighting men as
])ossiblc up t(j 400, also to make as advantageous terms as he can

,1 DESPATCH FJi'UM yjMJtl'VA.

515

11(1 proseiitly
surcs iiguiiist
iiip is wholly
iinieiices the
taiitial luud-
1)111 tlie pali-
th(3 fort oil
o' for u .sie<>t'

the offer of a
outiiigeiit to
ijor Bartteh)t
L'luirv, under-
alim, fearing
iipanies them
, but as thev
hey are per-
1 of ivory,
nd intimates
rould be ulti-
e purpose of

eed rin Ujiji

eturns to the
n, the inde-
iver in the
eaehing Ka-
)f forming a

liis goods at
also prepares

which is as

andii,

( Mat/, 1888.

)))U-Til) w(!nt to
I) 1 11011. More are
asuniing Stanley
number than lie
lierofore I have
I'd to orijiiinally
fighting men as
rnis as he can

regardinp; scrviro, and )»ayment of men, he and I pianinteeiiig money
in name oC Expedition, -lameson will return about the Mth, but earliest
day to start will be .June 1st, when I iir()i)0se leavintr an ollicer with all
loads not absolutely wanted at Stanley Falls. Ward carries thi'
m(vssage; ])lease olitain wire from the King of flu; Jielgians to the
Administrator of the Free State to i)laee carriers at his dispo.sil, und
have steamers in readiness to convey him to Yand)nya. If men come
before his arrival I shall start without him. 1I(> should return about
July 1st. Wire advice and opinion. Otticeis all \\v,U. Ward awaits
reply.

" IUUTTK(-OT."

Mr, Ward ))roceeded down the ('ong(), and in an uii-
preeedentedly short time n'ached tiie sea-board, (•al)hMl
his despatch, received the foHowing reply, and started
uy) tlie ( Joiigo again for the Yam])iiya camp.

" iNIajor liarttelot, care Ward, Congo.

"Committee refer you to Stanley's orders of the •24th June, 1887. If
you still cannot mar<;h in accordance Avith these orders, then stay where
you are, awaiting his arrival or until you receive fresh instructions from
Stanley. Committee do not authoi'i.so the engagement of lighting men.
News has been received from Emin I'asha ria Zanzibar, dated Wadelai,
November 2nd. Stanley was not then heard of: Emin I'asha is well and
in no immediate want of supplic and goes to south-west of lake to watch
for Stanley. Letters have been posted regnlarly rid East Coast.

" Chairman of Committee."

Mr. Ward on arriving at Banoahi is detained there by
order.

The Committee have made a sliglit mistake in calUng
my letter of instructions " orders." The instructions
are not exactlv " orders." The\' are su<j;<?estions or
advices tendered ])y the Commander of" the Expedition
to the Commanding Officer of the reai cohmm, which he
may follow or reject at his own discretion, .^blj()r
Barttelot has ex])resse(l an impatient desire to be of
active service to the Expedition. He declares that it is
his dearest wisli to leave Yambiiya to follo'v on our
track. The Commander of the Expedition, strongly
sympathising with the impetuous young officer, writes
out a series of suggestions by which his desire may 1)8
realised, and gives him further a pencilled estimate (see
Appendix) by what manner the forward advance after
us may be done. The Major earnestly promises to con-
form to these suggestions, and the parting between him
and myself is on this understanding. But they arc not

1888.
ISaiuilyai

P-'I

r)i6

JX h A UK EST AFIUCA.

IHHH.

A UK.

lianalva.

lill!

T h

I! I ,

■p.

iih

1 lusL j

positive " orders," as a niun's epita|)li can ])est be written
after his deatli, so tlie measure of " kudos" to be given
a man is l)est known after the vahie of his services has
])een ascertained.

At the end of .Marcli tlie ^lajor is on l»ad terms with
Salim bin Ab)lianinied. wliicli compels him to make a
fifth visit to Staidey Falls to obtain his removal.

Alxmt the middle of A})ril Major Uarttelot returns to
]iis camp, and Salini has orders to (piit Yand»uya. Iii-
Htead, however, of [)rocee<ling to Stanley Falls, he pro-
])()ses a raid upon a large village below Yandaiya, but
in a few davs he reappears, stating that lie has heard a
rumoui' that the advance column is descending the
upper waters of the Aruwimi.

On the i)th of JVIay, 1888, the Major ]m)ceeds to
make a sixth visit to Stanley Falls, and on the 22nd of
the month makes his reappearance with the indefatigable
Jameson and a large party of Manynema. 1'hree days
later the ])r()crastinating Tippu-Tib, who, on the 18th of
June, 1887, said that he would be at Yand)uya within
nine days, and in August within ten days, arrives by
steamer A. [.A. The Stanlc)/ also steams up to deliver
letters for the expedition.

As Tip])u-Tib suggested that the loads GOlbs. weight
were too hetivy for his people, the officers were obliged
to reduce them to 40, ;^0, and 20lb. weights, to suit his
views. This was no light task, but it had to be per-
formed. As an advance payment, Mr. Bonny relates
that forty-seven ])ales of cloth, a vast store of powder
and fixed ammunition are delivered, and £128 worth of
stores are given to Muini Sumai, the head man of the
Manyuema battalion. The European provisions are then
overhauled, and such articles as ^ladeira wine, jams,
sago, tapioca, arrowroot, sardines, herrings, and wheat
flour are boxed up, and with eiolit boxes of mv baiio-aoe •
are shipped on board the steamer for Bangala as un-
necessary and superfluous, in the same vessel on which
Mr. Troup is an invalid passenger bound li(»me.

Finally, on the lltli of rhuie, 1888, after weeding
out twenty-nine Zanzibaris and four Soudanese who are

TWllLVK I/CXI)/,'K/> MILES OF iVAlt<'//L\G.

oi;

too fecltlc to work. Messrs. Hiutt«'Iot, Janu'son, and ihmh.
Hoiniy leave the eaiiij) thev should have left not later ^"'''•
than \ho 25th of August, 1S«7, with a following- of ''^""''>»-
Zuiizi'.huis, Soudanese. Sonialis, iuid Manyiienia. a,H',i^n-e-
gatiii<i' nearly l)(i() men, women, and children, with the
intention of ma kin;;' that "'strenuous (|uest" for the lost
Commander and to relieve Km in I'aslia.

These six visits to Stanley Falls which tlie Major and
his friends have made amount in the a,u;nre^ate to I L'OO
En,iilisli miles of marcliiiii"'. The untirin,^ Major has
personally ti'avelled S()() miles, while .lameson has per-
formeil I'JOO miles. If only these I ".iOO miles had Keen
travelle(l hetween Yam!»uya and the Alhert, the rear
<-olumn would have rea<'lied Pan*";! Falls. Even l»y
travelling' sixty miles, to uain a direct advance of ten
miles, they w.)uld have Iteen cheered and encouraoed hy
our letters and charts to press on to Avejeli to recuj)e-
rate amon*"' the abundant plantains of that rich and
populous settlement.

liut while the Major and his otHcers were endeavour-
iiio- to stimulate an unwillin<>' man to pei-form his con-
tract with forty-five guinea rifles. Remington riHes,
ivory-handled revolvers and annnunition, with many a
fair hale of cloth, their own faithful men were dying at
a frii'htful rate. Out of the original roll of 271, then;
are only i'A'I left of rank and file, and out of these 1 :^2
by the time thev have ai-rived at Banalva there areonlv
101 remaining, and nearly a half of these are so wasted
l<y famine and disease that there is no hope of life in
them.

Thirteen days after Hie departure of the lioi'de of
Manyuema and the anaemic, Zanziharis from the fatal
camp of Yamhuya, the Major undertakes a seventh visit
to Stanley Falls, and leaves the eolunm to struggle on
its way to Banalya without him. On the foitv-third
day of the march of ninety miles the van of the I'car
column enters the palisaded village of Banalya, which
has become in my absence a station of Tip[)u-Til)'s in
charge of an Arab called Abdallah Ivaroni, and on the
same day the restless and enter^jrising ^lajor enters it

'/#cjs

alS

JN DA UK EST AFIiTCA.

Uii

III

■mt I 111

m v

1888. on his ]-etiini fVoin Staiilcv Falls. On the next day

Aug. some misunderstanding*' takes place hetvveen him and

Banaiya. ^j^^ ^,|jj^^- ^Yi^i.^n.^j^ Karoni. Tlic iMajoi" storms at hiin.

and threatens to start to Stanley Falls for the eighth
visit on the 20th of July to complain of his conduct
to Tippu-Til) ; hut at dawn on the IDth of .luly the
unfortunate connnander is shot through the heart hy
the assassin Sanua.

1 will permit Mr. William Bonny's ofticial report to
detail what occurreil in a i-evised form.

" 18/// Jul 11, 1888.— Tlic Major coiitiiiued to threaten Abdalla that if he
did not ^et tlie carriirs i)roiuis<'(l by Tippii-Tih ho wouhl return toStanloy
Falls on the 2()th, .hkI lie ordered the Arab to accompany him. Tht!
Major informed nie he wonhl be back on the '.(th of Aufiu.st, but before
concluding his remarks, he ask(ul me, ' Don't you think 1 am iloinu' the
correct thiufj; by uoinjz; to Stanley Falls? " 1 answered, ' No, I (hm't sec
why you want sixty more men ; you have men enou<j;h an(i to spare !
You had better issue tlie rilles and annnunition to tlie men, and that
will reduce the number of our burdens by fifteen, and trust the men.
Mr. Stanley is oblij^ed to tru.st the men. If they run away fnmi yon, they
run away from him, but if you li-avo them in my hands I doirt think
they will run.' The Major .said, ' T intend that you shall have command
of the Zanzibaris and Soudanes<^ from here, and you shall precede the
Manyuema a day's march. ]\Ir. Jameson and 1 will march with the
jManyuema and get them into .some order, and see they do not mix nj)
with your ])eople. I don't want to go to tlu^ I'alls, but 1 want you to try
to get sonu! tew men. if you only get me twenty I shall bo sati.stied.
I asked Abdallah if he could let me have a few carriers. I obtained
seven.'

" It)/// ,7/f///. — Early this morning a Manyuema woman commenced
beating a drum and singing. It is their daily custom. The iMajor sent
liis boy Soudi, who was only about thirteen years old, to stoj) them, but
at oniH! loud and angry voices w(>re heard, followed by two shots by way
of d(;lianco. The Major ordereil some Soudanese! to go and find the men
who were tiring, at the .same time getting \\\) from bed himself and
taking his revolvers from the case. i\v, >iaid, ' I will shoot the tirst man
I catch liring.' 1 told him not lo interfere witli tlie jjcojiIc's daily
custom, to remain inside, and not go out, inasnnicli as they would soon
be f|uiet. lie went out revolver in hand to where the Soudanese were.
They told liim that they could not lind the m"n who were (iring. Thi!
Major then pusluMl aside! ;;oiiu! Manynenia, an<l passed through tiieni t(»-
wards the woman wiio was beating the drum and singing, and ordered
her to desist. Just then a shot was tired tlirotigh a loophole, in an
opi)osite hut from within, by Sanga, tin* woman's Iius1>and. The charge
pemt^trated just below the region of the heart and pass(>d out iiehiiKJ.
lodging tinally in a part of the verandah under which the Major fell dead.

' The Soudanese! ran away, and refused to follow uk! to get the Major's
body; but I went, and was tbilowecl by one Somali, an<l one Soudanese,
who with niy.self i-arried the body to my house. From the screaming I
thought a general ma.ssacr(! had commenc(;d, for i had not seen a siiigli'
Zan/.ibari. Tiiey were either hiding within their hon.ses or joining in the
general stampede that followed. I now tiu'iied and saw one of the head-

Mj{. HON.wy's fih'poirr.

>1!>

men of the Manynciua, who with riflo and revolver in hand was leadinp a
body of sixty of his people to attack nie. T had no arms. I walk(>il up
to him and asked him if he was leadinj;- his men to tifj;ht me. lie rei)lied
' No.' 1 said, ' Then take your men quietly to their houses and hriu^ all
the headmen t(» me, for I wish to s])eak to them.' Some headmen sliortly
afterwards made their a])pearii,n('e, and I said to them, ' The tronliN; is
not mine, but Tippu-Tib's. 1 want yon to brin^^ me all the loads, and tell
all your fellows to do the same. Ti))pn-Tib knows what each of you has in
charge and is responsible for them. This is Tippu-Tib's trouble. Tippu-
Tib will have to pay up if the goods are lost, and will ])unisli the head-
man who causes him a loss. 1 shall write to him, and he will come hen;,
and he shall know the name of him who refuses to do what I now wish.'
This U!snlted in my getting back to the storeroom about 150 loads. I
now sent my men to collect what goods they could, and befon; long I
recoveriid 2!)i) porter loads. They had been scattered all over the place,
some in the forest, in the rice field, and in the village huts iiidden away
witliin and without, in tact everywhere. Some of the bead sacks and
ammunition boxes had already been ii))i)'d or broken open, and tlie
whole of their contents, or in ])art, gone. After counting up I foujid \
was forty-eight loads short. The inliabitunts of the village numlxircd
about 200 or 300 ])eo))le. F had arrived with about 10(i uwn ; Muni
Siimai, the chief headman of the i\Ianyu('n)a, with lliO carrieis and
about '200 followers, making a total of about 1000 ])eople, of wiiom i)0()
were caimibals, all confined within an area K'O yards by 25 yurds. You
can therefore better judge than I can describi! the scene when the general
stam[)ede connnenced, tin; screaming, firing, shouting, looting our stores,
&c., &c. I regret to say that the .Soudanes(( and Zanzibaris without
exception joined in the looting, but in my turn I raided their houses and
haunts and captured a quantity of cloth, beads, rice, (Scr. 1 had to
punish NevenOy before T snccee(i(Ml in stopping it. I now wrote to Mr.
Jameson, who was about four days otf bringing up the remaining loads.
I also wrote to Mons. Baert, a Congo State oificer. and secretary to Tippn-
Til) at Stanley Falls, explainijig what had takiJii placi^ how I was
situated, and asking him to use all his tact with Tip]»u-Til) to get him to
come luire or send some chief to re])lace Muini Sumai, who had lieen one
of the first to abscond. I told Mons. Baert to tell Tii)i)U-Til) that all
Europe would bliuni! him if he did not assist us. I tlien buried the
Major, after sewing tlie body up in a blanket. I dug a grave just within
the forest, ])lacing leaves as a cushion at the bottom of the grave, and
covered the body with tlu! same. I then read the church service; from our
Prayer-Book over the Iiody, and this l)rought tlu! terril)le day to a close.

" Tlie ]\rajor wrote and handed nu! tlieotficial order appointing m(Mn
command of the Zanzibar! and Soudanese when tlu^ camp at Yambuya
was in great danger, and his own life es]iecially. I therefore tak»i com-
mand of this Si'cond Column of the Kmin Tasha Relief Hxpedition until
1 see; Mr. Stanley or return to tlii' coast.

" It shall lie my constant care under (ind's hel]i to make it more
succ(!ssfnl than hert^tofon;. IMr. Jameson will occu))y the same position
as shown in Mr. Stanley's instructions to ]\Iajoi- iSnrttelot on his going to
Stanley Falls to siitth; with Tippn-Tib for another headman of the
Manynema lie has free! hands, believing himself to be in command. I
did not undeceive; him. On his re-turn here I will she)w him the elocu-
mcnt, a copy of which F have given above'.

" I have tlie honour to lie, Sir,
"etc., ete'.,

"To ir. i\r. Stanle-y, Ksep, " Wim.iam iJn.NNY.

" Cemimauder E.lMi.E."

ISSH.
Alii;.

li.iiialvi.

Ilf"*-'f

520

IN DARKEST AFlilCA.

1888.
Auir.

Banal va.

I 1 1

Tliree days after the tragedy Mr. Jameson appears at
Baiialya with the rear guard of the rear column, and
assumes command ; l>ut on the 25th of July, after
leaving wor<ls of encouragement to Mr. Bonny, he
undertakes tl^e eighth visit to Stanley F'alls in the hope
that by making liheral offers of gold to satisfy the avari-
cious Tippu-Til) he may induce him either to head the
Rear (Column himself, or send one of his fiery nephews
in iiis place— Salim l)in Mohammed, or Rashid, who
assaulted and captured Stanley Falls from Captain
Deanc.

Oil August 12th he writes his last letter (see Appen-
dix) to Mr. Bonny, and begins it, "The Expedition is at
a very low ehh at present, as 1 think you will acknow-
ledge." This is a sad fact very patent to everybody.

After seeing the act of justice performed on the
wretclie<l assassin San^a, and witnessins*- the shootiim' of
him and the body tossed into the Congo, he departs from
Stanley Falls for Bangala. For Mr. Jameson and Major
Barttelot were both concerned in the detention of Ward
for some reiison at Banuala, and therefore the answer of
the (^)mmittee to their cablegram of the 1st of May was
in his possession. Mr. Jameson is anxious to know what
its tenoi' is before a final movement, and he departs in
a canoe with ten Zanzibaris. Night and day they float,
and when o])])osite the Lumami he is attacked with fever.
Ilis constitution is o[)en to its virulence, filled as his
mind is with despondency, for the fortunes of the Expe-
dition are — despite every strenuous endeavour on his j)art,
his whole-hearted devotion, his marches and counter-
marches, his tramp of 1400 miles (1200 miles befoi-e
leaving Vambuya, thence to Banalya, and then to
Staidcy Falls), his sacrifice of money, physical comforts,
and the ])ouring out of his soul to effect what he thiid<s
ought to be done — but alas ! '* at their lowest ebb." And
the fever mounts to his brain. P)V dav and niu'ht the
canoe-men ])ress on to the goal of l*)angala Station, and
ai'rivc in time t(» put him in the arms of Mi-. Ward,
where he breathes his last, as the advance <'olumn, re-
turning after its iiishmu' and swin<»inu' face through

A DREADFUL PEST-HOLD.

r)21

f(/rest and ])y river from tlie Al])ert Nyanza, enter 1888.
Banalya to demand " Where is Jameson ? " -^"S-

Twenty-eiglit days after the tragic death of ^Fajor '^'^"'^'y'^
Barttelot, and twen.'y-three days after the departure of
Jameson, the advance column returning from the All)ert
Nyanza, much reduced in numhei's, and so tattered in
tlieir clothing that they were taken for pagans picked
up by the way and their ohl ('omrades failed to recognise
them, appeared at Banalya to learn for the first time the
distressful story of the rear column.

The life of misery which was I'clated was increased
by the misery which we saw. Pen cannot i)icture nor
tono;ue relate the full horrors witnessed within that
dreadful pest-hold. The nameless scourge of barbarians
was visible in the faces and bodies of many a hideous-
hjoking human being, who, disiigured, IJoated, marred
and scarred, came, impelled by curiosity, to hear and
see us wdio had come frcnn the forest land east, and who
were reckless of the terror they insjnred by the death
embodied in them. There were six dead bodies lying
unburied, and the smitten living with their festers
lounged in fnmt of us bv the dozen. Others woin to
thin skin and staring l)one from dysentery and fell
an{i3mia, and ulcers as large as saucers, crawled about
and hollowly sounded their dismal welcome — a welcome
to this charnel yard ! Weak, wearied, an<l jaded in
body and mind, 1 scarcely know how 1 endured the first
few hours, the ceaseless story of calamity vexed my eai's,
a deadly stench of disease hung in the air. and the most
repellent sights hu)ved and surged bcfoi'c my daze<l
eyes. I heard of murder and death, of sickness and
sorrow, auij^uish and urief, and wherever I lookc<l the
hollow eyes of dying men met my own with sucii trust-
ing, pleading regard, such far-away yearning looks, that
it seemed to me if but one sob was uttered my heart
would break. 1 sat stupefiecl under a suffocating sense
of despondencv, yet the haii'owiiig story moved on in
a dismal cadence that had nought else in it but death
and disaster, disaster and death. A hundre(l graves at
Vambuya — thirty-three men perishing abandoned in the

ill .;!■

Pi III -:

Itt

1888.
Aug.

BaDaly<i.

m !

t !

622

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

camp, ten dead on the road, about forty in the village
about to yield their feeble hold of life, desertions over
twenty, rescued a passable sixty ! And of the gallant
band of Englishmen ? " Barttelot's grave is but a few
yards off, Troup went home a skeleton. Ward is some-
where a wanderer, Jameson has gone to the Falls, I don't
know why." '" And you — you are the only one left?"
" The only one, sir."

If I were to record all that I saw at Banalya in its
deep intensity of unqualified misery, it would be like
stripping the bandages off a vast sloughing ulcer,
striated with bleeding arteries, to the public gaze, with
no earthly purpose than to shock and disgust.

Implicitly believing as we did in the elan of Barttelot,
in the fidelity of Jameson, in the vigorous youth and
manly promise of Ward, in the prudence and trustworthi-
ness of Troup, and the self-command and steadiness of
Bonny, all these revelations came to me with a severe
shock. The column was so (complete with every requisite
for prolonged and useful work, but the " Hood-tide of
opportunity " flowed before them unseen and unnoted,
therefore their marches became mere " markino- time."

What, Barttelot ! that tireless man with the ever-
I'ushing pace, that cheery young soldiei', with his daunt-
less bearini>', whose soul was ever yearnino- for o;lorv. A
man so lavishl}' eijuipped with Nature's advantages to
bow the knee thus to the grey craftiness at Stanley
Falls ! It was all an unsolved riddle to me. I would
have watered he would have seized that flowing' lirev
beard of Tippu-Tib and pounded the face to pulp, even
i:i the midst of his power, rather than allow himself
to be thus cajoled time and time again. The fervid
vehemence of his ])r()mise not to wait a (hiy after the
fixed date yet rings in my ears ; I feel the strong grip.
and see the resolute face, and I remember my glowing
confidence in liim.

It is said that " Still waters run deep." Now Jameson
was sucli a still, and patient, and withal determined man
that we all conceded a certain greatness to him. He
Jiad paid £ 1 000 sterling, and had prcmiised diligence and

THE SAD DEATH OF JAMESON.

523

zealous service, for the })i'ivile<ie of l)eing enrolled as a irmk.

member of the Expedition, lie had a passion for
natural liistory to gratify, with a maiked partiality for
ornithology and entomology. According to Hartt(>lot,
" his alacrity, capacity, and willingness to woil< were
unbounded," which I un({ualitiedly endorse. What else
he was may })e best learned in his letter of August 12,
and his entries in the log book. Zeal and activity grow
into prcmiise and relief as we read, he seals his devo-
tion by oti'ering out of his purse £'10,000. and by that

bv (h

d b

unnappy canoe voyage ny day and oy ni
was lifted to his bed to die at I)ani'ala.

dit,

until

lie

Granted that Tippu-Tib was kind to these youn<

gen
and

tlemen

)ine(

urmj

ii' their frequent visits to Stanley V'a\

1 and feasted them on the best, and that

he sent them back to Yambuya with loads of rice and
Hocks of goats, which is admitted. I^ut his natural
love of power, his ignorance of geogra[)hy. his barbarous
conceit, his growing indolence, and his (|uickene<l avarice
proved insuperable obstacles to the realizing of l^arttelot
and Jameson's wishes, and were as fatally ojtposite to
their interests and dearest desires as open wai' would
have been. The wonder to me is that the otKcers never
seem to lie conscious that their visits and rich gifts to
him are utterly profitless, and that the object they have
at heart, their inherited ([ualities, their education, habits,
and natures forbid any further re[)etition of them, h'or
some mysterious reason they pin their faith with the
utmost tenacity to Tippu-Tib. an<l to his ])roinises of
" nine (hiys," then " ten days," then " forty-two days,"
&c., &c., all of which are made only to be broken.

But the most icy heart may well be niclte(l with com-
passion for these young men so prematurely cut off —
and so near rescue after all. They bravTly attempt to
free their clouded minds aii<l to judge clearly in which
course lies their duty. At their mess-table they sit
discussinn- what oui>lit to be done. Mind gravitates to
mind, and ignites a spark of the right sort ; it is uttered,
but some one or something (pienches the spark as
soon as it flashes, and the goodly purpose goes astray

Aim.
l-i;malva.

V.ir^ - :-.--— ~,i

524

IN DARKEST AFBICA.

isss.

•A UK-
Ban ilva.

\WSM'

Tliey propose a iiuiiil)er of schemes wide apart from the
simple suii'o'estions tliat I liave furnished them with, and
each project as soon as it is ])orn is frustrated by some
untoward event soon after. Thougli they all are un-
(h)ul)tedly animated l»y the purest motives, and remain
to the end uncjuestionably h)yal — throughout every act
they are doing themsehes irreparable injury, and un-
consciously weighing their friends of the advance column
down to tlie verge of des])air with anxieties.

The following is Mr. Ilerbei't Ward's report, which in
justice 1 feel bound to publish : —

"Windsor Hotel,
" New York City.

" Feb. im, 1890.

" Oh August lith, 1887, Troup, Bonny, and myself, with the men and
loads, arrived at Yambuya from Bolobo. We found that since your
(U'parture on June 28tli, 1887, notiiing had Leen heard of Tippu-Tib, and
that the Major and Jameson had occupied their time in olitaining fire-
wood for the steamer. On the following afternoon after our arrival, a
band of Manyuema attaelced the temporary village that the Chief Xgunga
had l)uilt on the op])osite side of the river, just l)elo\v the ra])ids. Bonny
and 1 crossed in a canoe to discover who they were, but apparently as
soon as they saw the steamer lying alongside our cam]), they cleared otT
into the forest, and returned to their own camp, which the natives told
us was but a few lujurs' journey up the river. The ne.xt day the head man
of the Manyuemas, named Al)dallah,came to us with a few followers, and
gave an account of how Tip])u-Tib, true to his word, had sent about
oOO men to (is in canoes under Salim bin Mohanuned, but that they had
encountered nuich hostility from the natives, and after i)addling against
the stream for several days, and finding no indication of our camp they
disbanded, and Salim sent small bands of jNIanyuemas in different direc-
tions to try and discover our whereabouts, and Abdallah represented
liiniself as being tlie head-man of one of the ))arties sent in search of our
cf,mp. Another version of the story to account for the oOO men dis-
biMiding when on their way up the Aruwimi, was that their ammunition
h". I given out, and tiie natives ])roved too strong for them Abdallah
stated that 'ripi)U-Tib was (piite willing to sup])ly the men, and that as
Stanley Falls wa>< only a few days' journey, we could easily go ourselves
and see Tippn-Tib, and that he himself would bo ready the next day to
acciMiipanv us and act as guide.

" The Major instructed Jameson and myself to proceed to the Falls. We
were there told the same story again, of how Tippu-Tib had sent a large
number of uumi to us. I>ut that" they had disbanded on the Aruwimi River
on account of their l)eing unable to ])ass some populous village, where the
natives had attackeil and driven them back, as they were short of gun-
powder. Ti])pn Till ])rofessed liis willingness to supply the men, but
said that it would reiiuire some time to collect them together again.

" As there were u])wards of (j(l() viilualile loads stored in Yambuya Cam]),
and only a sufficient number of able-bodieil men to carry 175, we all con-
si(k>red it better to guard the loads in the cam]) where there was abund-
anc(> of food for the men. until tlie arrival of Ti])]>u-Til)'s promised aid
than to discard a portion of the loads and to make triple marches; for we

Mil IIEBBERT WAIiD'S ItEPOIlT.

525

were all convinced from evidence wo had of men oven deserting from tlie
camp, that after the iirst few days' marching most of our men would
desert and joui tlie Arab hand of Waswahili and Manyuema raiders, wlio,
we found, were tiiiversing the country in all directions, and wliose free,
unrestrained manner of liviiifx rendered our men dissatisfied with their
lot, and tempted tliem to desert us and accompany their compatriots.
The Major, our chief, perscmally disliked tiio Zanziharis, and lacked the
]>roper influence over them.

" Ti])pu-Tih continued to procrastinate, and in the moantimi' a lar^e
number of our Zanziharis, many of whom, liowever, from the first were
orjjianically diseased and poorly, sickened and dieil. They were always
employed, and the cause of their death cannot be attributed to inaction.
Beiufj; fatalists, they resi^'ued themselves without an effort, for the
Jiwana Maknhvni, with their comrades, had p)ne into the chirk forests,
and they all verily lielieved had perished. Tiiey themselves, when they
fimnd that U]ion no consideration would there ever be a chance of
returning to their own country except by the deadly fore.st route, looked
upon the situation as liopeless, gave way, and died.

" We expected you to return to Yambuya about the end of November;
but time ])assed away and we received no news from you. We were
unable to make triple marches owing to the sad condition of our jn'ople.
Every means was tried to urge Tippu-Tib to jiroduce the men, but
without avaih

" In Fel)ruary, 1888, the j\hijor and Jameson went again to the Falls,
and on the 2-±tli March the Major returned to Yambuya. He stated that
he had guaranteed the payment of a large sum of money to Tijjpu-Tib if
he would produce the men, that Jamestm had gone to Kasongo to hurry
tliem up, and that he considered tliat the Connnittee should bi; informed
of the state of af!txirs; firstly, that no news whatever ' I bei'U niceived
from you since your departure, nine months hefoi^:; secondly, that
Tippu-Tib's aid was not forthco; ing, that we were still in Yambuya
unable to march. No steamers hat. visited the camp since the arrival of
the last contingent.

" It appeared to us that evidently circumstances had prevented you
from connnunicating with us after your de])arture, and that news about
your movements might liave readied tlie east oast.

"As it appeared possible to reach Loanda and communicate by cable
with the ('onunittee antl return to Yambuya by the time .lameson was
expected from Kasongo, the Major instructed me to ccmvey and despatch
a cablegram which he lumself worded and signed. I accom])lished the
journey in thirty days, antl inmudiately upon receiving their reply (tlic;
clause " we refer you to Mr. Stanley's instructicms of June '24fh," was
precisely what l»oth Troup and I expected iiefore my departure), I
luustened back as far as Bangala, where I was instructed to remain by
the Major until I received fnrtlier news from the Connnittee, to whom he
liad written, that he had no further use for my services or the loads lie
had sent down in /.« Stanhy.

"Five weeks after my arrival at Bangala. news came (h)wn ])y the
Eh Kvant that the Major had been assassinated. Janu.'soii, who was
at tlie Falls seeing to the punishment of the murderer and reorganisation
of the Manyiiema contingent, wrote; ami urgetl me to stay at JJangala.
Having descended from the Falls in canoes, he was in the last stage of
bilious fever. Despite every care and attention, he died \\\v following
day. He came down to Bangala fo learn fhe Connnittee's reply to the
Major's cable, and to take back the Bangala loads and myself in th(!
steamer that the State officer at the Falls had assured him would 1)0 at
Bangala on its way up to the Falls just about the time he would arrive.

18S8.
Aiiq.

banalya.

520

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

1888.

Aug.
banalya.

It. '

i-i

This information about tlie steamer was fal.se, and on tlie first day of lu.s
journey down in the canoes lie caught a fatal chill, which resiilted in hiss
(loath from bilious fever. There being no possible chance of my joining
Bonny, as no steamer was to again visit the Falls for some months, 1
went to the coast to ac(iuaint the Committee with the fact of Jameson's
death, and the position of affairs as I learnt them from Jameson l>efore
his death. They cal)led an order for me to return to the Falls, and hand
()V(!r the remaining stores to the State Stati(m there, and to bring down
Boiiuy and the men for shipment. Upon reaching Stanley Pool I foun<l
that news lisfl just been received of your arrival at Banalya and return
to Emin ]^is';,t. I continutid my journey, however, to the Falls, and
took up wiUi me all the loads that the Major had sent down to Bangala.
1 remained one month at the Falls anxiouslj' hoping for further news of
you.

" After collecting all that remained of the sick men whom the Major
handed over to Tipjiu-Tib, I descended the Congo again in canoes and
returned to Europe according to the cabled instructions of the Com-
mittee.

" The above is a simple and truthful statement of facts relating to the
failure of the rear guard.

" No one can feel more bitterly disappointed at the unfortunate condition
of affairs than iuyself. I regret most sincerely that my services were so
profitless.

" I remain,

" Always yours faithfully,

(Signed) " Herbert Ward.

" Henry M. Stanley, Esq."

i ; ;

i :i

111 •

^1 i ill'
1 Hill

iil

Ml'. Ward informed me that be had discovered my
eight boxes of reserve clothing and Expedition neces-
saries at Bangahi ; that he took them with him to
Stanley Falls — 500 miles above Bangala — and then
brought them down to Banana Point on the sea-coast,
where he left them. No person knows — though diligent
en([uiry lias been made — what has become of them.

AFPE DIX

ts relating to the

Major Barttelot's Last Report of events at Yambuya : —

Ynmbuya Ciimp, Jniic 4, 1888

Sir, — I have the honour to report to you that we are about to
make a move, though with far lesK numbers tliau I originally
intended. Tippu-Tib has at last, but with great reluctance, given us
400 men. I have also obtained from another Arab called Miini
Somai thirty more carriers; we shall move not earlier than the Uh
of June md our forces will be as follows: — Soudanese 22, riHes 22 ;
Zanzibans i i, riHes 110, loads 1)0; Manyuenui 4:50, muskets ;500,
loads ..89. The officers who are going are Major Barttelot, in
command ; Mx-. J. S. Jameson, second in connnajid ; IVIr. W. Bonny ;
Sheik ]V' lini Somai in conmiand of Manyuenia force.

'^heik Muini Scmiai is an Arab of Kibongc, who v(dunteered to
ace -ipany the Expedition as commander under me of the native
contingent.

On May 8, the Belgian steamer A. L A., with M. van Kerk-hoven,
the chief of Bangala, arrived here, having on board Mr. Ward's
escort of thirty Zanzibaris and four Soudanese, one Soudanese dying
at Bangala.

May IK/t.— They left us to go to Stanley Falls.

May lith. — I left for Stanley Falls, going overland and catching
the steamer at Yallasiila, on the Congo. I proceeded with the
Belgians to the Falls on May 22.

Mr. Jameson and Tippu-Tib, with 400 men, returned from
Kasongo.

Mr. Jameson wrote to you while at Kasongo of his i)roceedings
there. He t(dd me on arrival that Tippu-Tib had promised
him 800 men, but would make no written agreement with him.

May 2'drd. — I had my palaver with Tippu-Tib ; he then told me
he could only let me have 400 men, 800 o'" whom were to carry
40-lb. loads, and 100 20-lb. loads. He said the men were present,
and ready to start as soon as I had my loads ready. I told him of
what he had promised Mr. Jameson at KaK<)ngo, but hy said never
had any mention of 800 men been made, only of the 400. That it
was (piite impossible he could give us more men, as he was short of
men at Kasongo and Nyangwe, as he was at present engaged in so
many wars that he had completely drained the coimtry. I was

528

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

ftlHi!

forced t(» submit, Imt hoped that he might he able to collect am)ther
1(10 or so at and arouiul Yaiidmya.

Tii)j)u tlien asked me if I wanted a headman, stating that in the
former agreement Mr, Stanley liad said that if a lieadman was taken
he sliould lie i)aid. I rej)lied, ('ertainly I want a headman. He then
l)resented me to the Arab, Muini Somai. This man agreed to come,
and I send yon the terms I settled with him.
I got back to Camj) Yambnya May 80.

Jiuic ith. — The Stdiilci/ steamer arrived, and the A. I. A., the
former bringing Jielgian officers for the Falls Station, the latter
Tip2»'i-Tib liimself.

Jane o///.— I had another palaver with Tippu-Tib, asking him
where were the 250 men already sent ; he exi)lained to mo that they
had been dispersed, and on trying to collect them they refused to
come, owing to the bad reports brought in by the deserters, and that as
they were subjects and not slaves he could not force them. That
was the reason why he had brouglit 400 entirely fresh men from
Kasongo for us.

However, Tij)i)u said he could let me have thirty more men
of Muini Somai. This, as I was so terribly short of men, I
agreed to.

Muini Somai himself appears a willing man, and very anxious to
do his best. He volunteered for the business. I trust you will not
think his payment excessive, but the anxiety it takes away as regards
his men and the safety of the loads is enormous, for he is resptmsible
for the Manyuema and the loads they carry, and thus saves the white
officers an amount of work and responsibility which they can now
devote to other purjxjses.

Tlie loads we do not take are to be sent to Bangala. They will
be loaded up in the A. I. A., or Stanlei/, on June 8, a receipt being
given for them by Mr. Van Kerk-hoven, which is marked B and
forwarded to you, also a letter of instruction to him and to Mr. Ward.
Perliaps you would kindly give the recpiisite order concerning the
loads and the two canoes purchased in March for Mr. Ward's
transport, also for those stores purchased by Mr. Ward on behalf of
the Expedition, as it is nearly certain I shall not return this way, and
shall therefore have no further need of them or him. Mr. Trou}),
who is in a terrible condition of debility and internal disarrangement,
is i)roceeding home at his owii request. Mr. Bonny's certificate of
his uniitness is attached, and his ai)plication marked E, also letters
concerning passage, Ac, to M. Fontaine, marked F. I have given
him a passage home at the expense of the Expedition, as I am sure it
would be your and their wish.

Tlie interpreter, Assad Farran, I am also sending home. He has
been, and is, utterly useless to me, and is in failing health ; and if I

Ai'rKxnix.

529

collect another

itiiig that hi the
idiiiau was taken
idnmn. He then

1 agreed to come,

he A. I. A., the
ation, the latter

Tib, asking him
to me that they
they refuKed to
I'terH, and that as
ce them. That
fresh men from

hirty more men
lort of men, I

very anxions to
list you will not
away as regards
le is responsible

saves the white
1 they can now

ala. They will

a receijit being

marked B and

id to Mr. Ward.

coucernmg the

Mr. Ward's

rd on behalf of

u this way, and

1. Mr. Trouj),

lisarrangement,

'^'s certificate of

E, also letters

I have given

as I am sure it

home. He has
ealth ; and if I

took liini with me I would only, aftor a few marches, have either to
carry or leave liim, and I am terribly short of carriers. So I have
ventured to send him home with a steerage passage to Cairo, and
have sent a letter to the Consul-Cionenil, Cairo, concerning liim ; als >
coi)y of agreement made by Assad Farran with mo on his proceeding
home; also papers of interpreter, Alexander Hadad, wlio died
June '2-1, 18H7, both marked (I. Tliese two interpreters made no
Bort of agreement concerning i)ay, terms of service, i^c, when they
agreed to come on this Expedition in February, 1HH7, so perhaps you
would kindly inform tlie proper autliorities on that subjoct. With
British troops in Egy2)t, as interpreters, tliey would have received m t
more than £0 a month and their rations, for as interpreters they were
both very inferior.

A Soudaneso s(ddier with a diseased leg is also proceeding down
country. Besides these there are four other Soudanese and twfMity-
nine Zan;^il)aris who are unable to i)rocee<l with us. Tij)pu-Tib has
kindly consented to get these to Zanzibar as best he can. A complete
list of them, their payments, i*fec., will be forwarded to the Consul at
Zanzibar, and I have recpiested him to forward on the Soudanese to
Egypt.

My intentions on leaving this camp are to make the best of my
way along the same route taken by Mr. Stanley ; should I get n:>
tidings of him along the road, to proceed as far as Kavalli, and *liea
if I hear nothing there to proceed to Kibero. If I can ascertain
either at Kavalli or Kibero his whereabouts, no matter how far it
may be, I will endeavour to reach him. Should he be in a iix I will
do my utmost to relieve him. If neither at Kavalli nor Kibero I
can obtain tidings of him, I shall go on to Wadelai and ascertain
from Eniiu Pasha, if he be there still, if he has any news of M •.
Stanley, also of his own intentions as regards staying or leaving. I
will persuade him, if possible, to come out with me, and, if necessary,
aid me in my search for Mr. Stanley. Should it for sundry reason ?
be unnecessary to Ljok further for Mr. Stanley, I will jdace myse'f
and force at his disjjosal to act as his escort, proceeding by which-
ever route is most feasible, so long as it is not through Uganda, as i:i
that evei t the Manyuemas would leave me, as I liave promise<l Tip])r.-
Tib they shall not go there, and that I will bring them back or send
a white officer with them back to their own country by the shortest
and quickest route on comjjletion of my olyect. This is alway:;
supposing Eniin Pasha to be there and willing to come away. It
may be he only needs ammunition to get away by himself, in which
case I would in all jji-obability be able to supply him, and would send
three-fourths of my Zanzibar force and my two officers witli him, an I
would myself, with the other Zanzibaris, accompany tho liianyuennui
back Ij the Tippu-Tib's coui ry. and so tc the coast, by the sh'»rte: t

VOL. I. II

'liTl

530

IX DAnKKST AFIIICA.

ronto — viz., l»y tlio ^Futa-N/if,'/', Tiiii{.?anika and Ujiji. TliiH Ik also
the route I Hhonld take should we be unable to find Stanley, or, from
the reaHoiiH either that he in not there or does not winh to come,
relieve Emin Pasha.

I need not toll you that all our endeavours will l)e most strenuous
to make the (piest in which we are going a success, und I hope that
my actions may meet with the ajjproval of the committee, and that
they will suspend all judgment concerning those actions, either in
the present, past, or future, till I or Mr. Jameson return homo.

Rumour is always rife, and is seldom c )rrcct, concerning Mr.
Stanley. lean hear no no .vs whatever, though mylal))urs in that
direction have been most strenuous. He is not <lead, to the be-tt of
my belief, nor of the Arabs here or at Kasongo. I have been obliged
to open Mr, Stanley's boxes, as I cannot carry all his stuff, and I had
no other means of ascertaining what was in them. Two cases of
]\Iadeira were also sent him. One case I am sending back, the otiier
has been half given t > IVIr. Tr(»up, the other half we take as medical
comforts. C ncerning Tii)i)u Tib I have nothing to say beyond that
he has broken faith with us, and can (mly conjecture from surround-
ing events an circumstances the cause of his unreastjnable delay in
;supplying men, and the paucity of that supi)ly.

I deem it my boundeu duty to proceed (m this bui;iness, in which
I am fully upheld by b;)th Mr. Jameson and Mr. Bonny ; to wait
hmger would be both useless and culpable, as Ti2)pu-Tib has not the
xemotest intention of helping us any more, and to withdraw would be
pusillanimous, and, I am certain, entirely contrary to your wishes and
those of the committee.

I calculate it will take uie from three to four months to reach the
lakes, and from seven to nine more to reach the coast.

Should you think and the committee agree that the sum is
excessive to give Muini Somai and are not prejjared to meet it, or may
be, are prei)ared to place only a jiortion of that at my disposal for that
jnirpose, both Mr. Jameson and I are fully prepared to meet it or the
remaining portion of it, as it is entirely for our benefit he is coming ;
though of course it must be remembered that our object is to reach
our destination with as many of our loads as possible, and that our
individual hold over the Manyuema wathout outs le aid would be nil.
Should you agree to i)lace the sum at my dispt, al, please arrange
accordingly ; if only a portiim, that portion, for he has received an
advance in powder, cloth, beads, and cowries to the value of £128. In
case of not meeting it or only a portion of it, i)leuse inform Sir Walter
Barttelot, Carlton Club. I insert this as it is most necessary the
money should be there when wanted, as Ambs and Orientals are most
punctilious on j)ecuuiary transactions.

I have much pleasure in stating that from all the officers of

illl'iil

Al'l'KSDlX.

.*u

iths to reach the

tlie officers of

tlio State with wlioin I liavo ('oino in contact or from wlionj 1 have
Holicitod aid, I have mot with a nioKt willing and ready rcKponHo,
which iH higlily gratifyinf^. I wouhl particnlarly mention Captain
Van Kork-hoven, Cliief of liangahi, and Lieutenant Liehrechts,
Oliief of Stanley Pool, and I triiHt that they niay meet with the
reward and merit tliey dcHerve.

June i)th. — ThiH morning Tipjtn-Tih Kent for me and asked me if
I thought ho wouhl get liiH money for tlie men. I tohl him I couM
give no aHKurance of that. He then Huid he muKt have a guarantee,
which I and Mr. Jamescm have given ; terniK of agreement and
guarantee are attached. All receijjts, agreements, iVc, made bcitwccn
Arahs and myself and signed by them I have sent to Mr. ILdmwood,
and the copies to you.

Juiii' 8///.— Thib morning I had the loads for Tippu-Tib's and
Mu.'ni Somai's men stacked, and Tippu-Tib himself came dovni to mjo
them prior to issuing. However, lie to(jk exce]»tiou to the loads, naid
they were too heavy (the heaviest was 4o lbs.), and his men could not
carry them. Two days before he had exitresscd his approl)ation of
the weight of the very same loads he refused to-day. I pointed out
to him that he as well as I knew the difficulty of getting any load
other than a bale, to scale the exact weiglit, and that the loads his
men carried were far above the prescribed weight of fiO lbs. We
were to have stnrted to-morrow, so we shall not now start till the
11th or 12th of June, as I am going to make all his h)ads weigh
exactly 40 llis. It is partly our fault, as we should have been more
particular to get the exact weight. The average wciglit over due
was about 2 lbs., some loads being 2 lbs. under. But it is not the
weight of the loads he takes exception to — in reality it is having to
poiform the business at all. He has been almost forced to it by
letters received from Mr. Holmwood against his ')wn and more tluin
against the wish of his fellow Arabs, and, tilled with asjjirations and
ambitions of a very large nature, the whole business has become
thoroughly distasteful to him, which Lis professed friendshii) for
Stanley cannot even overcome. His treatment of us this morning
showed that most thoroughly. But should he not act up to his
contract I hope it will be taken most serious notice of when it comes
to the day of settling up. He has got us tight Hxed at present, but it
should not always be so.

On our road lie many Arab settlements to within a month of Lake
Albert Nyanza, thougl' the distance between some of them is bad,
and the inhabitants of that distance warlike. I shall, whenever
opportunity offers, hire carriers, if not for the whole time at any rate
from station to station, ft « of course death, sickness, and desertions
must be looked for, and I ■ .ist get my loads in as intact as possible
to my destination.

532

IN DARKEST AFRICA.

This is wlitn Muini Soiiiai will bo so useful. We seem to have
paid a big price for his services, but then he is a big Arab, and in
proportion to his bigness is his influence over the Manyucnia to keep
them together, to stoj) desertions, thefts, tVrc. A lesser Arab would
have been cheaper, but his influcTice would have been less, and in
conse(pience our loads gradually less, and loads mean health and life
and success, and therefore cannot be estimated at too high a value.
We are carrying light loads, and intend to do at lirst very easy
marches, and when I get into the open country by Uganda to
push on.

We weighed all our loads before one of Tippu-Tib's headmen,
and he passed loads which had been condemned shortly before in the
morning, which fully shows that for some reason or other he wishes
to delay us here, but for what purpose I cannot say.

June 'dth. — We shall easily be able to start by the 11th, but I am
sorry to say our loss of annuunition by the lightening of the loads —
for it was the ammunition they particularly took notice of — is some-
thing enormous.

Both the A. I. A. and the Stanleij left this morning for
Stanley Falls, but Tippu-Tib and his Belgian secretary renuiin
behind ; also four ships' cari)enters, whom Captain Vangele and M. van
Kerk-hoven left with us to help us. The Belgians have behaved wit]i
very great kindness to us, and helped us on our way enormously.

Before I close I would wish to add that the services of Mr. J. S.
Jameson have been, are, and will bo invaluable to me. Never during
bis period of service with me have I had one word of complaint from
him. His alacrity, capacity, and willingness to work are unbounded,
while his cheeriness and kindly disposition have endeared him to all.
I have given Ward orders about any telegram yon may send, and
Tippu-Tib has promised ho will send a messenger after me should it
be necessary, provided I have not started more than a month.

Tippu-Tib waits here to see me off.

I am sending a telegram to you to announce our departure, and I
will endeavour tlirough the State to send you news whenever I can ;
but it would not surprise me if the Congo route was not blocked
later on.

I have not sent you a copy of Mr. Holmwood's letter, as it was not
official, but of ail others I have. I think I told you of everything of
which I can write. There are many things I would wish t(» speak of,
and no doubt I will do so should I be i)ermitted to return home.

Our annuunition, IJoniington, is as follows: — Rifles, I'JH ; reserve
rounds, jjor rifle, 27'.) ; rounds with rifle, 20 = ;jr),.^80.

June \i)Oi, — The huids have )>een weighed and handed over;
jtowder and cai)s issued to the Many uema force, and we are all ready to
start; which wo shall do to-morrow mornnig. I have told you of all

ll!!#i|:i

APPENDIX. r.;^,;5

now I can tliink of, but I would bring finally to youi' notice that
Tippu-Tib has In'oken liiK faith and contract with us. The man
Muini Somai I think means biisiness, and therefore I trust all will
be well.

I have, &c.,

Edmund M. Barttelot, Major.
To Mr. William IMacKinnon,

President of the Emin Pasha litlicf Committee.

COPY OF LOO OF REAR OOLUMN.

Note. — This "Log" may not appear to lio very lively roadiug at first, but it
prc'sontly (Icciicuti iu iiitrrcst, mid will n))iiy ixrusiil to tlic reader whu iia.i
filuu'L'd ill our aiixiotiob respecting tlie fate of the rear foluuiii.

II. M. S

Jime lltJi, 1888. — Left Yamlmya at 7 a.m. Slight excitement
prevailed at first, firing ott" guns, iS:c., but this was soon checked.
The Zanzibar Comjiany went ahead, Mr. Jameson in advance, Mr.
Bonny in the centre, Major Barttelot in rear. The Manyuema con-
tingent under Muini Somai started later, but soon caught up the
Zanzibar Company ; the rear reached camp at the Batuka village
called Sudi at noon. One sick man was left behind on the road, but
he found his way to camp later on. All loads correct.

The rear column left Yambuya with strength as follows : —

Major Ednnmd M. Barttelot, Commandiwj.
Mr. James S. Jameson, Second in Command.
Mr. William Bonny, Command of Zanzibar Co.
Zanzibar Company . . .108 men.

„ IJoys .... 7

Soudanese soldiers . . . 'I'l

Sonuili ..... 1

Manvuema carriers . . . 4:50

Total
Distance travelled about five miles.

5G8

Road fair, tlirough jungle and phuitatioTis, the best roadways
being the streams.

General direction S.E.

(Signed) E. M. B.

534

IN BAIiKEST AFRICA.

June 23r(Z. — Halted in cainp to await arrival of Kearch party, who
returned at 3 p.m., having done nothing. Major Barttelot went to
explore road, following it for live miles to the N.E. Major Barttelot's
boy Soudi deserted with his revolver, belt and 85 rounds of ammu-
nition, owing to Major Barttelot's thrashing him, though doubtless he
was put up to it. In consequence all rifles taken from Zanzibaris.
Major Barttelot will proceed to-morrow to Stanley Falls to see Tippu-
Tib concerning deserters, and if i)ossiblc to obtain fresh men from him
to get back loads and rifles. He will send a note to Mr. Jameson
to come here and bring as many Manyuema as he can to take
amnnmitiou und rifles and escort Zanzibari to AbduUa Karoni's
(Banalya), where they will await Major Barttelot's arrival. Major
Barttelot and Mr. Bonny both thinking this the most feasible plan, as
if the desertions last much longer, there will not be a load left.
Kindness has Ijcen shown in every way to the Zanzibaris throughout,
and tlie marches have been uniformly short.

Weather fine, shower in the evening.

E. M. B.

lliiil

June 24///. — Major Barttelot, with fourteen Zanzibaris and three
Soudanese and boys, left here tliis morning for Stanley Falls. Kucliu,
a Zanzibari, who, when ordered to accompany the Major, ran away,
came in at 8 a.m. He Mas tied up and kept in the guard-room.

Copy of orders to Mr. Bonny, June 23/7?, 1888.

I. Take over cliarge of the camp, remaining till Mr. Jameson's
arrival.
II. To have special care of all Zanzibari rifles and ammunition.
III. When move is made, to see that all loads, such as ammunition,

are under Soudanese escort.
IV. Any attempt at mutiny to be punished with death.

V. To try to obtain information of whereabouts.
VI. To liand over connnand to Mr. Jameson when he arrives, and
not *:o proceed further than Abdulla Kihamiras (Banalya).

Edmund M. Hauttklot.

You will retahi connnand of the Zanzibaris as before.
A case of small-pox ^. ordered to be removed some distance off
from tlie camp.
Weather flne.

Wm. Bonny, CunimatuUmj {pro ttm,).

Note from Mr. Jameson.

"Mv DEAR Bonny,— I have just arriveil here. T sn])po8e it is
Nassur bin Saifl, and have met Kuclm and soldiers with slaves. They

APPESDIX.

535

ftrcli party, who
irttelot went to
lajor Barttelot's
mm\<. of ainmu-
gh (loubtleKS he
•oiu Zaiizibaris.
Is to see Tippu-
li men from him
;o Mr. Jameson
le can to take
nlulla Karoiii's
arrival. Major
easible i)lan, as
be a k)a(l left,
ris throughout,

E. M. B.

Iiaris and three
bWls. Kuc-hu,
njor, ran away,
i'd-room.

888.

Mr. Jameson's

munition.

pS ammunition,

le arrives, and
( Hanalya).

li.VUTTELOT.

le distance oti'

l^'o tern.).

Ruj)pose it is
slaves. They

told me that the Major is gone to Stanley Falls four days ago. T
d(>u't know how he could uave missed us. Have captured sixteen guns
and two men, but only part of two loads. No medicine. I will como
to your camp to-morrow as early as I can.

" Yours itc.

Wm. Bonny, Commfj. '' J. S. Jamkson."

Jaly 2nd. — Got away at 7 a.m., and marched till noon. Camping
in a village named Mkwagodi, tribe Baburu, general direction N.E.,
distance about eight miles, lload bad, runiiing through ujany
swamps and old plantations. No desertions on road, or in camp last
night. Found some of Tipjm-Tib's peo2)le here, who say they will
carry a letter to Stanley Falls. They knew a road to the Congo
which can be traversed in four days' march. The Aruwimi II. distant
from this camp about three hours. Ti])pu-Tib's men state that
Abdallah Kihamira's station (Banalya) is V»ut three days' niarcli from
here, and that the blazing of trees on his road beyond that place is
still visible.

Weather fine. J. S. J.

G P.M. — Mr. Bonny reports non-arrival of two Zanzibai-is. Each
possessed a rifle, and one was loaded witli k)()se amiiaiiiition.

July Srd. — Heturned to Ujeli Camp for extra loads, and arrived at

1 P.M. Muini Sumai resported arrivals of letters, stating that the wlioh^

force was to return to Stanley Falls. Eeceived two letters from

Major Barttelot, dated June 25th, to the etiect that we wen to

proceed with all desi)atch to Banalya. Muini Sumai t(dd me he lad

received the news in a letter from Sala Sala, conveyed by some

messenger, and that on receipt of it he had sent to stop the men and

loads en rout>' here from Nassur bin Saiti village. I replied that the

Major's orders were still to proceed to Banalya. He sent messcngeis

at once to. tell the people behind to come on. He reports many cases

of small-pox and other diseases, iil»(»ut sixty men unfit for work, that

seven of his men have deserted. IVIet the two men reported missing

last night. Both were sick and had slept at a village close by,

Weather fine.

J. S. J.

Jnhj ith. — Told Muini Sumai that my last orders to him were to

get the whole of his force together at once. a:)d come <»n to my camp

with all speed. He jmimised to leave following day. Kain came

dowi. in torrents shortly after leaving, but pushed on and reached

Mp\ingu about noon, when it cleared uj) for a fine day. Heavy rain

until noon.

Double loads borne remarkably well.

J. S. J.

W^rr ■'■'■'■'*■-

o6i\

L\ DAh'KKST ATjUCA.

July o:h. — Kcisched Mkwagom, Mr. Bmuy's camp, ab mt not>!i.
S.vaitips veiy bml sftev r-viu. He reports all quiet during my absenco.
Ojie ZanziLiiri had died. My letters to Stanley Falls left abniit
il A.M. of the 3rd. Tij^pu-Tib's people had brought a few fowls for
Bale.

Weal ho.' line. J. S. J.

Juhi Gth. — Sent Mr. Bonny on to next village, which I iiear is a
large one, and (piite an easy march from liere, with orders to send back
Soudanese escort and carriers to carry extra loads to-morrow. T\is is
n very small village with not sufficient accommodation for our force,
so determined to awoii. his arrival at the next. Men returned from
Mr. Bmny about 2 p m.

J.S.J.

July 7th. — Moved uj) witli all extra loads to Sipula, ab;)ut fifteen
miles. Koad a bad one, much fallen timber, and manioc very tliick.
Bonny rei)orte(t Zanzibari bearer of our choi>-b;)X as lagging behind
yesterday, and breaking open his box. Was caught red-handed in the
act. One tin »!' ? rn-beef and one tin of milk were missing, als;) a
broached tin of ci coa stiH in box. IVIan volunteered t.) show where
tliese were. Sent him back with Soudanese, who returned with both
tiuH opened. Dr. Parke's box, whilst being carried here yesterday, fell
and bu^'st open ; danuigeil beyond re2)air. The clothing I packed in
Messrs. Stairs' and Nelson's bags, which were uiulerweight ; the shot
and carti'idge cjises were discarded, being short (»f carriers. Collected
all the cartridg'!s carried by the Zanzibari, and will have them carried
as loads, as I mean to send Mr. Bonny on to Banalya. The road
is a i)erfectly safe one, and food all the way. The small-i)ox is rife
ftuongst the IVIanyuema, and I wish to prevent it from S2)reading
among our peojjle. Banalya is f )ur easy marches from here, and
Mr. Bonny will have guides to show the road. Have sent to Muini
^iumai to join me to-morrow here.

Weather line. J. S. J.

J<ilil Hth, ^Iv. Bonny left lierc f )r Banalya. M\iini Sumai with
nearly all the JManyuema arrived here. Muini Sumai tells me that he
has received a secfond letter from Sala saying that the whole force is
t ) return to Stanley Falls. I'pon furtiier impiiry I tind tliat the way
Sala got the news was tlie tollowing. Men of Salim Mohamed's
returning from Stanley Falls alter the steamer had arrived at
Yanduiya sjjread Uiis report among the people, v.ho commujiicated the
t^anio t ) Sala's people.

.1. S. J.

API'EXJ>IX.

r>H 7

Jullj 'Jth. — ],a;A niglit, us • at ti '^ivn, signal, nearly every man in
the camp i)cgan to fire off his gun ; nevoral <.i the shots u»«re tired
heside my tent. I jnmi)ed ont of ;>c>!, sent for Muini Siimai, got my
rifle, and told iiini hefore every ^n* that I von Id shoot the very next
man that tired cdose to my tent. 'i"')evc were no more shots.

Abimt noon to-day several of U >ni;v"j men canic into eami) tellin'^
me he had lost the road. Stai ed out to Bonnys canq). i\[et
messenger with a note from him on roa<l. He tells me the guides
yesterday took him all wnmg and tiiea ran away. He afterwards got
t.)o far N., sighting the Aruwimi. He is camped at a village ahuit
lialf-an-h(»ur from here. Went with him along road, and found, n
well hlazed one going to the eastward which he had missed. Gut
back to his camp at dusk.

Weather fair. Mr. Bonny reports a goat missing.

.7. S. .T.

Jidi/ 10//(. -Started shortly after daylight and j lined Mr. Bonny.
Went ahead on road, general direction S.E. which I f(»und he had
followed the day l)eft)re. Had just determined to go to where he hail
camped when Arabs from Banalyu arriv(i(l. The head-man told me
that he had brought the i)ercussion-caps from Stanley Falls to
Banalya, and also four letters. He handed over to me three deserters
from Mr. Stanley's force, Musa Wadi Kombo, I'eluuii V.'adi
Mabruki and Jumah Wadi Chaiidi. (Note from Mr. Stanley : ; hese
three men deserted from tin, adva uce on or about Aug. 2Hth., just half
way between Yambuya and Albert Nyanza.) They all decdrive that
they did not desert tVom hint, but were left sick on the roail. They
say they belong to Cunia' i Stuir Company. I got them to guide us
to the right road, ai '1 t' ay took us to iho, very village wheie Mr.
B mny and bin nien ! pt tli<! day before yesterday, <lose to the
Aruwimi, and from t. iu-b ixjint he had turned back. He camjied
there again to-day and _;;'is on to-morj.w morning. AbduHa Kiha-
mira 1 inded me the 40,00(1 pe; ussion-caps for whi( - Tippu-Tib is to
bo jiHid £4H.

Weather fine. J. S. J.

Jidii 11///.— IVEuini Sumai infonncd mc to-day that he could not leave
for Banalya until the di.y after to-morrow. I warned him timl everv
day lost on the road would be a day less at Banalya, as Ma|.»i
Barttelot would expect us to be ready to start on his arrival. He has
not the slightest power over the other head-men.

Heavy and continuous rain in afternoon. J. S. J.

hiJii 12///. — Muini Sumai reipicsted pevfii^sion-caps to be dis-
trib ited among his men. Told him to ali'rcss liinisolf to Majoi

''■ <'i

^'^n-'-

.'/'.-

■^^

538

/A DARKEST AFRICA.

^tt

Barttelot on the latter's arrival. He made another excuse for not
starting to-morrow, as he did not like leaving the white man behind.
I tohl him that was my business not theirs, and that every man and
load m\',st leave this place to-morrow.

Weather cloudy, but tine. J. S. J.

JuJii 13th. — Mnini Sumai and Manyuema left to-day for Banalya.
One sick chief going on slowly with men. Several dying of small-
pox left in village. Stench around village frightful, but all villages
near here are in a similar condition.

Weather fine. J- S. J.

Juhf 14//*.— Sent for Tippu-Tib's men from Mampuya, and told
them Ave would remain here some days. They have no news of Major
Barttelot's being on ♦^^he road.

Heavy rain all afternoon. J. S. J.

July 15///. — Still at Sii)ula awaiting return of men from Banalya.

J. S. J.

Julji 16///. — Tippu-Tib's peoide came from Mampuya with
plantains for sale. Purchased some for the sick. Cannot understand
the non-arrival of men from Banalya.

J. S. J.

July 17///. — Nyombi, Tippu-Tib's head man at Mampuya, came
into camp to-day. Reports return of the men who took letters to
Stanley Falls. Had seen Major Barttelot, who has gone by a short
road to Banalya. Said he would be tliere to-day. Still no signs of
the men from Banalya to carry the extra loads. They are now a full
two days over date.

Weather fine. J. S. J.

Jnly IH///.— Between 8 and 4 p.m. the men from Banalya arrived.
Told them to collect plantains and manioc at once, as we should
march to-morrow. Much grumbling.

The ft)llowing received from Mr. Bonny :

" Abdullah's Camp (Baualya),
July !;■)///, 1888.

" Mv DEAK Jameson,— -I arrived here about 10 a.m. this day.
The Zanzibaris did not know the road well, and I had to keep

APPENDIX.

539

excuse for not
ite inan beliind.
every man aud

J. S. J.

ty for Banalya.
lying of Kniall-
but all villages

J. b. J.

:>nya, and told
news of Major

J. S. J.

rom Banalya.
J. S. J.

ampnya with
lot understand

J. S. J.

impuya, came
K)k letters to
ne by a short
1 no signs of
re now a full

J. S. J.

alya arrived.
.s we should

dJanalva),

IS)S8.

I. this day.
ad to keep

to the front nearly the whole distance. When you ari'ive at my first
camp on the river bank you had better get three days' manioc you
will not find any for three days. The Soudanese in charge of the
Zanzibari prisoior let him escape on my second day's march. You
may see this c-jcu-ed prisoner. (Here follows list.) Twenty- three men
have deser'.« .. The Manyuema who came with us left us on the wrouT
road early on second day ; they had blocked the riglit road in sc- eral
places. I did not 3ee any native on the road, althougli I am certain
they look after people left behind. On my four-days' march Feraji
Wadi Zaid ran aw y, leaving his load on the road. I hear Selangi,
who was sick, is also absent ; loads correct.

" Yours, etc.,

" William Bonny."
W^eather fine.

J. S. J.

July 19///. — Started about 7 a.m. and marched to Mr. Bonny's
first camp. Aruwimi 1{. distance between five and six mile.-, ■ 'i i ral
direction north-east. Passed through five villages and over two
streams. Road generally good, through old manioc plantations broken
up with patches of forest. Halted to let men collect manioc.
Threatening thunder, but fine.

J. S. J.

July 20///. — Left camp a little before 7 a.m. and reached Mr.
Bonny's camp on the bank of the Aruwimi R. 11 o'clock. Distance
between five and six miles. General direction E. Road a bad oi:e,
lying ahmg the bank of the river and crossing all the deep cuttings
with muddy inlets to them. Latter part of march through old sites
of very large villages. The natives were all living on opposite bank.
Very large plantations of manioc and plantain.

Weather fine.

J. S. J.

July list. — When nearly ready to start this morning a heavy
shower of rain fell, and I kept the tent standing ; it cleared, however,
shortly, aud we made a start, when it began to ])our again and rained
steadily until we reached Mr. Bonny's first camp in forest, when
we halted. When about a mile from the camp we were met by
mesKengers from IVIr. Bonny, who handcil iiie a letter, a,nd wliilst
opening it overheard some of tht men saying that Major Barttelot
was dead. This was only too true, for my hotter contained the sad
news that lie was sliot dead early nu the morning of the ) '.»tli at
Banalya, aud further that Muiui Sumai ami all the MauTueiua had left.

^ 'J

!
1

540

7.V DAItKEST AFIUCA.

Mr. Bonny 'h letter follows : —

" \Wi Jul I/, 1888.
" Mv DEAR Jamkson,— Major Barttolot Khot dead early this
morninf^ ; Manyuenia, IVInini Sumai and Abdullah Kilianiira all gone.
I have written to Tii)pu-Tib through Mons. liaert.
'•Push on.

" Yours,

" Bonny."

J. S. J.

Juli/ 22nd. — After Keeing all loads ready to start, got away about an
hour after daybreak and reached Banalya an hour before sunset — a
long march over one of the worst roads in this country. On arrival
f (und all quiet, and that Mr. Bonny had done all tliat (!ould be done
under the circumstances. He had recovered about 800 of the loads
carried by the Manyuenia, and had succeeded in quieting those who had
remained near cami). IVInini Sumai lialted on the morning of tlie l'.)th
instant without a word to any one, and has g<nie to Stanley Fails.
Tlie other head men under him, with the exception of two or three
who are camped outside this village, are camped in the bush some
distance away. IVIajor Barttelot was buried on the IDtli. A full
account of the circumstances of his death is given by Mr. Bonny
later on.

J. S. J.

July 2iirf]. — Made an inventory of the effects of Major Barttolot,
and 2)acked all things considered necessary to send home, a full
account of everything l)eing sent to Sir Walter Barttelot. Offered a
re vard for the arrest of the man who shot Major Barttelot.

J. S. J.

July 24///. — Made a complete list of all loads recovered ; the
majority of the Manyuenia head men came into camp, and from them
gathered the following information : —

There are 193 Many uema carriers still camped in this vicinity ;
M\uni Sumai, six head men, and Sanga, the man who shot Major
Barttelot, are all at Stanley Falls. On my niarcli to Stanley Falls
I will meet more of the head men, wlio will give information about
their loads and men. I then told them I was going to Stanley Falls
to-morrow, to see Tippu-Tib, and try to make such arrangements
with him as would admit of our still C(mtinuing tlie Expedition ;
would not remain away long, and when returned would let them know
v^hether it would be an advance or otherwise. Told them I wished
them t(» remain ipiietlyin whatever camp they chose in the neiglib)ur-
L«»od, but not in this village, so ib?.t there would be no chance

ArVESDlX.

:.4i

of fnrtliei" trouble until my return. They ^aid tliey were iierfectly
willing to do thin. Wo have reeovered li'-*^^ loads, and are now
47^ loads short.

Letters handed l>y me to Major Ilarttelot l)efore our departure
from Yandniya. Two h ads of the .('l\]iedition found missing.
Believed tliem to have l)een h)st on the way, which one of liis men
(Hamed bin l)aoud) ran away with on his return from Stank'y i''ulls.

J. S. J.

Mr. Bvnnijs Lmj.

Jidji 11///. — I struck camp early, and startetl alonjj; the bank of
Aruwimi. I soon found out why I had not taken this ntad. livery
village has been burnt down, and everything destroyed. Kh'jihants
are very numerous here. New roads have lieen made, the old ones
destroyed ; but after an hour's mait.h I came on Mr. Stanley's road.

W.M. BoNNV, Commanding Adnincc Parti/.

July 12//i.— -Made a long march, taking tliree days' manioc to
enable me to pass througli the forest. The Arabs wlio joined witli the
Zanzibaris deserted after leading us an hour on the wrong road, and,
blocking up the right tmes in several i)laces, ran away. I found riglit
rtad, and continued my march until mid-day. Camped in forest.

Wm. Boxny, CommandiiKj Advance Parly.

July 15th. — I arrived at Banalya at altout 10 a.m., after a march
of four dayii and four hours froni where I last saw ]VIr. Jameson.
Nothing worth noting occurred on the 13th and 11th instant.
Abdullah, the head man of this village, treating me very kindly,
giving me a large house, rice, fish, and bananas, (^amp (piiet.

W.M. BoxNY, Command'uKj Advance Party.

July 16th. — Some of Muini Sumai's Manyuema came in to-day.

Wm. Bonxv, Commandbvj Advance Paity.

The dates 17th, 18th, and I'Jth have been already published in

Chapter XX.—" The Sad Story of the Rear C<dumu."

11. M. S.

Jnly '20th. — Sent out to lieadmeu to try and get more loads. 1
tind I am short of the following loads, viz., « bags l)eads, Hf brass
wire, 10 sacks of hkfs., '.) bales Zanzibar cloth, 5 loads of powder,
10 sacks rice, 1 sack cowries ; total 17 loads.

f p *

'^m

r.42

IS T) A 11 K EST AFKK'A.

I cliKcovereil that the man who sliot the Major ik named Raiiga,
and is a headman cliarpied with the care of ten h)ads. He has fled to
Stanley Falls with Muini Sumai.

Wii.i.iAM Bonny, Commnuifintj.

Jnljl 2'2iiil. — ^It has lieen raining now thirty-six hours. Mr.
Jameson arrived to-day. Camp (j^uiet.

William Bonny, Commanding.

Jul II 2oth. — iVIr. Jameson left here for Stanley Falls, taking with
him the late Majors ett'ects.

William Bonny, CommamJintj.

Jnlij 27 fh. — The Soudanese paraded to-day, without being asked,
and said they wished to speak to me. They said — " Wo wish to light
the Manyuema ; we are waiting for orders, and are ready to light." . . .
I think they are now ashamed of their conduct on the I'Jth instant in
not following me when called upon.

William Bonny, Commanding.

Following from Mr. Jameson : —

" Ciunp in Forest,

"Jitl!i2m, 1888.

"My dear Bonny, — Wo have been doing good work, marching
eight hours yesterday, and nine and a half hours to-day

"Met Muini Sumai. He was on his way back t;) Banalya, having
been pursuaded to return by other Arabs coming from Stanley
Falls.

" Muini Sumai told me that one of Sanga's women was beating the
drum when the Major came up, and the Major went to the house
saying ' Who is that ? ' Sanga says he tliought that the Major was
going to beat the woman as he had beaten the man the day before,
and BO fired at him. He is at Stanley Falls.

" Yours,

"J. S. Jameson."

August Int. — I raided the Zanzibar! houses to-day, which resulted
in my getting ten pieces of cloth.

William Bonny, Commanding.

August 2/ '/. — Empty Eeinington box found in forest. A Zanzibari
was found in i)ossession of forty-eight hkfs., being part of stores lost
on 19tb.

William Bonny, Commanding.

'i'.

liiir^

Mii'ii

APl'EXDIX.

r>4S

August C)th. — Tlie natives caine lust nij^lit and stolo a caiKio from
our gate, ami not two yards from a Sou<laneso sentry. 1 tined the
thren Soudanese sentries eacli f 1 for neglect of duty.

William Bonny, C<>mmau<Uuij,

August Htlt, — ALout 10 p.m., hearing an unusual noise, I got up,
and discovered that it proceeded from aliout 100 to 150 canoes
knocking togetlier. The natives were in force across tlie liver, and 1
soon posted my men. The natives observing our movements returned
up river. No shot was tired. I want to make friends with them.

William Bonny, Commdudlug.

August \1tli. — The Manyuema, tlirough Chief Sadi, ])r()Uglit me a
present of 15 lbs. of wild jiig meat. I have had no meat since 25th
July.

William Bonny, Cimmanding.

inalya, having

August Will. — T received a letter from Mr. Jameson, now at
Stanley Falls, in which he states that my letter of the lUth -Inly, IHHS,
was lost. It was addressed to ]\[ons, Baert, Stanley Falls, announcing
the death of Major Barttelot to Tippu-Tib, and enclosed one to Sir
Walter Barttelot, Bart., IVI.P. Tippu-Tib has tried Muini Sumai, and
finding him guilty, has torn uj) his contract. Muini Sumai has to
return all rifles, Arc. IVEr. Ward is at Bangala with letters from the
committee, which Jameson has ordered to be sent uj). Tippu-Til)
has agreed to hand over Sanga, the murderer of the INlajor, to Jameson
for justice. The state officers claim that power, and will try him, as
Banalya is within their territory.

William Bonny, Coinmandiug.

August 17th. — Mr. Stai-ley arrived hereabout 11 a.m. this morning
in good health, but thin. He came by water with about thirty canoes,
accompanied by about 200 followers. Some of whom are natives
belonging to Eiuin Pasha.

I briefly told Mr. Stanley tlie news, handeil to him elever letters
addressed to himself, and four addressed to Emiii Paslia.

Bain.

W. Bonny.

August ISth. — A Manyuema admits to Mr. Stanley that he liad two
bales of Zanzibar cloth, and knew a man who had a bag of l)eads,
taken from me on the 19th July. Mr. Stanley advised the head iuan

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0

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128

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12.2

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Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO

(7i6) 872-4503

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JN DAliKEST AFltlCA.

to return the goods to inc. Kinianga bronglit two half ba!ea of
Zanzibar clotli, l)eing part of the stores h)ote(l on the 19tli July. A
receipt was giveji to him. I received a letter dated August 12lh,
Stanley Falls, from Mr. Jameson. Muini Sumai came in and saw
Mr. Stanley.

William Bonny.

Aminxt 19//t.— Muini Sumai has now returned all rifles, revolvers,
and ammunition, besides to]) of tent.

William Bonny.

•H- -!

i. ■ :

•; ■

AiK/unt 20th. — Soudanese and Zanzibaris paraded to-day of their
own accord before Mr. Stanley, and complained to him that they had
been badly treated.

The following is from Mr. Jameson : —

" Staiiloy Falls,

'^Augitst 12, 18SS.

" My dear Bonny, — The Expedition is at a very low ebb at
present, as I think you will acknowledge. No head-man will go in
charge of Manyuenia although I have done all in my power to get
one. Tippu-Tib .aid he would go for £20,000 paid unconditionally,
and said further that if he met with any really sui)erior force, or sav
his men threatened with any serious loss, he would return. It is not
likely that the Committee would agree to this proposal. Secondly, ho
proposed for the same sum to take the loads via Nyangwe and
Tanganika to Kil)oro in Unyoro, guaranteeing first to pay for all
loss of loads. Secondly, to deliver all loads at Kibero in Unyoro
within six months of date of starting. Thirdly, after delivering
loads at Kil)ero will look for Stanley. But if war between Unyoro
and Uganda, could not guarantee delivery of loads at Kil)ero. I had a
final interview with him last night. I t(dd him that Mr. Stanley's
very last orders were to follow the same road he had taken. Major
Bartteh>t's intentions were, at the time of his death, to continue on that
road. IVIajor Barttelot wrote to Mr. Mackinnon to say he had started
on that road. The rejjly of the Committee could not have l)een to go
by another, or we would have received it. Emin Pasha's last state-
ment was to the effect that if he were not soon relieved he would put
himself at the head of his men and try and get out via the Congo.
That Emin Paslia had rec^eived tlie messages which Mr. Stanley sent
from Zanzibar telling him his route would be by the Congo. That
did he start, the Congo would without doubt be the route he would
choose to come out. And that finally, in the face of all this, I could
not go by a new route unless ordered to do so. Tip2)u-Tib then said,
'You are riglit.' I then t(dd him that as regards our old route, bo
could not get mo a head-man over the Manyuoma, no matter what I did

APl'EXDfX.

54;

to induco them. He said lie would conimaud them liiniKelf for
£20,000, yet told me that if auy Kerious less was threatened to his
men he would turn back. I replied, ' You will accept no less a
sum than £20,000, and that unconditi<tnally.* Many of the
Manyuema openly avow their intention should I go without a head-
man from you, they will proceed a certain distance, and when they
come to a g(K)d village, throw down our loads and begin ivory hunting.
(This Tippu-Tib acknowledged.) Therefore, if I start from here
without a head-man it might \)e fatal to the whole expedition.

" The only thing left for me to do now was to get a canoe, and go
to Bangala at once. Read the Committee's reply, and if it was to the
eft'ect, go on at all hazards. Then I would take thirty or forty loads
to be carried by the men Tipj)u-Tib is g(ting to give me to replace
those of Muini Sumai, bring Mr. Ward with me, as in case the
Manyuemas chucked their loads, there would Ije one of us who might
get back with the news, and bring no headman. I shall have plenty
to do with the Manyuema. Return here at once in the Stanley
Steamer, which will be at Bangala immediately after I arrive there,
and start at night away again. If the rei)ly of the Committee would
justify my stopping, knowing all I do, I would send Ward with a
telegram at once to Banana by same canoes I go down in, return in
the Sfanlei/. go up to you, and all men and loads would be sent to
Yarukombe on the Congo. Tippu-Tib guarantees that he will
dismiss his men, and keep them close to the Aruwimi, and should the
reply from the Committee he to still go on, on either route, he will
have them all collected in a few days. There is no one to go down
but me. Were I to wait the answer of the Connnittee here, then if
we started at once I would have no loads to rei)lace those lost at
Banalya, and Ward could not come with us, and if I thought right to
stop and send a telegram, a very serious delay would accrue in Ward's
starting with it.

" What I wiiL^h you to do now h to stop at Banalya until you hear
from me, which oaght uj be in three weeks or a mouth.

" If we have io come down to Yarukombe, the thing will bo ti
make Zanzibaris believe that we are going to Zanzi])ar, then there will
not be many desertions. Tippti-Tib has found oiit the refuge of the
deserters. It is at Yatuka, Said bin Habib's place. He lias sent
men to catch all who are there. Daoud was captured at Yumbuya
with the Major's sack of cloth with him. Pieces of our cloth are
being brought here to Tippu-Tib from villages all over the
country.

" Yesterday Sanga (the murderer) was tried before Tippu-Tib and

VOL. I.

.J .1

■f-_ -?.,

rA(\

IN DAllKEST AFniCA.

the Belgian Resilient. He was found guilty, and shot immetliately
alter wards.

" My hopes soinetimes have l)eon raised to the highest i)itch, and
then thrown to tlie ground the next moment. Wlien Tippn Tib said
he would go for £20,000, I t(dd him I did not think the Committee
would give it, but if he would give me certain guarantees I would pay
half the sum myself as a 8ub8crii)tion to the Expedition. But after
what lie had said no one would take him.

♦ • * ♦ * «

" You remendier that in camp I had serious thotight for reasons
you know of not bringing Ward ; but if we do start this time without
any head-man, it is most necessary that there should be three of us.
1 assure you that his coming will not in the least interfere with your
command of the Zanzibaris. And now, old man, good-bye, and God
bless you.

" Very sincerely youi-s,

'• James S. Jameson."

J i

- ; !ii

Copy of pencilled remarks and calculations made in i)resence of Major
Barttelot, June 24th, 1887, when he demanded further light
npon his duties, and regarding Tippu-Tib. Fourteen months
after it had beeu handed to Major Barttelot it was restored to me
by Mr. AVilliam Bonny. It was copied, and the document was
returned to him.

"Str. 5i/(t»/r//, let us assume, arrives here in August, M-. Stanley
hopes to be at Nyauza same date. Ho stojjs two weeks with Emin
Pasha, say to 1st September. Septeml)er and October to come back.

" So you have got seventy-fcmr days with 550 loads ; you have 155
carriers, besides two garrisons of fifty men each, to occ>ii)y ends of y«)ur
days' march.

4 trips to make 6
miles forward, 8 trii)s

Going 6 miles per day.

155 loads

" »» 5> •

. 155 „

6 .» « •

. 155 „

^ J» » ■

. 155 „

\ to make 1 day's jour-
' ney for a caravan.

" Therefore in seventy-four days you will have made nine marches
forward nearer to us.

" If Tipi)u-Tib sends 400 men with your 208 carriers you can
march with all goods towards Muta Nzigt. Then I shall meet yi.u
thirteen days from Muta Nzige."

Al'l'ESDlX.

647

LiRT OF Stores lamle<l at Yambuya Camp, Aiigunt 14tb, 18H7, per
B.B. Stanley froi;i Leo)>ol(lvillo : —

100 easew gniiiM)\v(ler.
12!t „ Keniingtoii rifle cartridges.
10 „ i»ercnHKioii fajJHi.

7 „ biHcuits (ship).
2 „ Madeira wiiio.
2 ,, 8nvolist.

Ill bales clotli (assorted).
38 sacks beads.
13 „ cowries.
20 „ rice.

8 „ salt.

1 „ empty sacks.

26 loads of brass rods.

27 „ brass and iron wire.
1 case tiuware.

493

List of Stores left at Yambuya in charge of Major Bartielot
June 28th. 1887 :—

2 boxes general and private baggage — Mr. Stanley.
29 „ Remington rifle cartridges.
38 „ Winchester „ „
24 „ Maxim „ „ „
24 „ European provisions.
10 loads ofticers' baggage.

brass rods,

tobacco.

cowries.

rice.

biscuits.

salt.

tentp

167

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. farms (

V)uUilatir}^gQrouna\80-iQ ft . atnve river

Jiirer, w yds. wide
soft, deep

ntyj''"^- \ Orenfelt.Jan.ms.
abov€\the sea ) j t *

- I

A MAP OF

THE (IIIILVT FOREST REGION

SHOWING THE ROUTES OF THE

EMiN PASHA KHLIEF EXPEDITION

From the River Congo to the Victoria Nyanza
BY IIENUV M. STANLEY.

Scale, 20 English Miles to 1 fnch-M, 267,200

Epplish Miles.

20 '= 3© 40

Not,... -Mr. Stan'rVs ,,!,.s,tv„IIo.,.s for l..,m-ltu.l.. for tlir ni..uth ..f tli,. Aniwinii ,hi 1 r,.r Va.n
^>"y:\< ' n-t ;ht1v,- umll t:.- ..up ha i l„-,M-o.istrurf,l ; a.vur-llm-l.v, th,. i..sili„M r.f V.u.ilmva
Mo... 1„. Hhlltrd 5 inlmitrs t.. tlu' w.st, .-.ml tho Kmrst folMt .,f .' ruwlnil nwmtli .li.mM Iip
^ lilt.'.! .1 iiilinitrs t(. till' ■■••i^f. Appl.vliiur tlir^,. corrrotlons, tlu' .llstanc.. UvUvrvn Uu- ..vtri'iii..
/MMiils will l„. r,,„,i I t.>aKri.(. with Mr. Stuiil.-, 's .■stlmutf In iss^iof ■•„lM.iit '.Hi Kiik'IIsIi Miles "

'V/ s ^V:Vtombiiy'^ Klljimycf
*K.wanjawiJ%\ 1^1rom1)nka

~ V^^aruruinla's

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Viuakyao// ■^*.. -^ ^'^'t

'if, ■

Marlnge "ff ^,,

K A S E R A

Steep ban

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4* /fLow *>-
* " banks

-Jl (.Coal found, StanUi)

,— ^'Sytooft.wiile

/^/Katmbu I.
soo ft. wide t^f jt^

^<^

f'-T-' - ® rt Klsanga Sangia

/< Simba Rukura

S: MPIKA IRLA ND

V Kiuibia'u^i

\iIutako Jreyiiina __^,--

24^

Ijon^itiule East 25^ of Greenwich

,\UraHg-i A.

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(Jicjjorted by Arabs)

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i' Zafr<. U G A

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STRUThEnS & CO., ENQH S AND PR S, N. V.